A LIFE IN BALANCE
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
Is this the year of the psychedelic retreat? WHAT THE IRANIAN PROTESTS ARE TEACHING US Cover-V6-LC.indd 2
JAN/FEB 2023 £4.95
ESCAPE ROUTES
Transylvania, Sicily, Patagonia, Antarctica, Australia, Courchevel, Cornwall and Sylt
JACK O’CONNELL OUR MAN OF THE MOMENT
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Publication: Country and Townhouse
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Classique
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A Classique Breguet watch is the exact opposite of programmed obsolescence. It is designed not only to masterfully tell but also withstand the test of time. Make History with us.
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F A M I L Y
S T O R Y
Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear ASHOKA
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Contents
JAN FEB 2023
COLUMNS 20
22 152
THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B starts 2023 with a new crush or three THE RURBANIST Mary Berry LAST WORD Michael Hayman incites rebellion
STYLE 27
28 30 32 34
THE ONLY WAY IS UP Dopamine dressing to heal the soul THE EDIT Style updates TREND Mariella Tandy unpacks your holiday outfit must-haves THE MAGPIE Jewellery news WELL GROOMED Men’s style
HEALTH & WELLBEING 37
38 40 42 44 46 47
EMBRACE THE ELEMENTS Are you earth, wind, water or fire? BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon seeks the arms of Michelle Obama BODY & SOUL In your element THE SCOOP Meet Ross Barr, the acupuncturist healing you in the bowels of Claridge’s SPA TREK Wrap yourself in cashmere for a healing journey at Lanserhof Sylt TAKE TEN Travel essentials BEAUTY BUZZ Skincare news
49 50 56
60 62 63 64 65 66 68
STREET ART Graffiti at the Saatchi Gallery CULTURAL CALENDAR What to see, read and do GOOD NEWS Feel-good stories to make you smile SOCIAL SCENE Journey to Zero ARTIST’S STUDIO Robert Montgomery THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey on the world’s best restaurants to discover art LITTLE GREEN BOOK Meet the founder of Allbirds THE CONSERVATIONIST James Wallace is fed up of party politics – he votes for the planet ROAD TEST Behind the wheel of the new Porsche 911 Cabriolet SCARFES BAR Writer John Preston on who makes a great protagonist
PHOTOS: COVER BY RACHELL SMITH; TRAVEL FASHION SHOOT BY CHLOE MALLETT
CULTURE
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Contents
JAN FEB 2023
FEATURES 70
78 80
85
GENTLEMAN JACK Benji Wilson meets Jack O’Connell, one of our hottest British actors ON LOCATION Bankside Yards THE FRONTLINE OF FEMINISM The struggles of Iranian women should touch us all, says Kamin Mohammadi RETURN OF THE ’SHROOM The pyschedelic trip is back, says Sophie Benge
INTERIORS 91
92 94 95 96
SUSPEND BELIEF Crane your neck for Deidre Dyson’s new collection DESIGN NOTES Interiors news FOCUS Bedrooms THE ECO ENTHUSIAST Sustainable bedroom homeware CHANGING (HOTEL)ROOMS Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen brings colour to The Dial House redesign
THE GREAT ESCAPE
From frozen adventures in Patagonia to a bells-and-whistles train journey to Courchevel, or from a tranquil trip to the Transylvanian wilderness to a red-hot route to Australia’s Northern Territory, discover your next great escape in our special section
FOOD & DRINK 139
142 143 144
HOLD YOUR BREATH A winter warming garlic soup GASTRO GOSSIP Foodie news WHERE TO EAT What are the best members’ club restaurants? GAME ON Eating venison is both sustainable and healthy. Ben McCormack catches his dish of the day
PROPERTY ON THE COVER Suit, Paul Smith. Vest, Zimmerli @ MatchesFashion. Watch, Audemars Piguet. TEAM Fashion director: Nicole Smallwood; Photographer: Rachell Smith; Grooming: Lesley Vye using Charlotte Tilbury and Bumble & Bumble; Fashion Assistants: April McCarty & Alice Hare; Photographer’s Assistants: Kate Whelan & Cam Smith
147
148 150
PROPERTY OF THE MONTH A private island retreat FIVE OF THE BEST Holiday homes LET’S MOVE TO... Comporta
REGULARS
14 16 146
EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS STOCKISTS
PHOTOS: COVER BY RACHELL SMITH; TRAVEL FASHION SHOOT BY CHLOE MALLETT
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BRITISH LEATHER GOODS WWW.ETTINGER.CO.UK
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polestar.com polestar.com 14.8–17.1 14.8–17.1 kWh/62 kWh/62 milesmiles 100%100% electric electric 0 CO02 g/mi CO2 g/mi
Polestar Polestar22 Lithium-ion Lithium-ion battery battery Improved Improved charging charging Range Range up toup (WLTP) to (WLTP)
394 394 mimi
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Polestar Polestar 2 Long range 2 Long Single range motor. Single motor. Specifications Specifications may varymay depending vary depending on configuration. on configuration. All figures Allare figures preliminary are preliminary and subject andto subject final certification. to final certification.
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I
Editor’s LETTER
t’s been a while since a man last graced our cover – but I hope you agree, it was worth the wait. Jack O’Connell is one of Britain’s brightest young stars, though with typical modesty, he says he still suffers from ‘imposter syndrome’. Understandable perhaps when you hear his backstory – and yet now here he is sharing screens with Emma Corrin and Adam Driver. Benji Wilson finds out why he’s recently been wrecking Ferraris on p70. For people mindful of the way we interact
EDITOR’S PICKS ADD if you don’t fancy a psychedelic trip, try adding a mushroom-based Phyto Nectar sachet to your morning smoothie for some serious plant power
DRINK Nearly three months now and I still haven’t had a drink. Sentia is my tipple of choice – for a gentle tipsy feeling without the hangover
EAT The ultimate collab: two B Corp brands (Tony Chocolonely and Ben & Jerry’s) unite for ice creamy chocolatey indulgence. I’m in!
PACK Make like Jennifer Coolidge in White Lotus with her British Globe-Trotter luggage – and travel in style
PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK
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with the world and our heavy footprint upon it, travel can be something of a conundrum. Can we justify flying halfway round the world to flop on a beach? The answer is – as always with these things – nuanced. Travel is infinitely enriching in all sorts of ways – not only for us as travellers, but for areas where tourism supports local communities and conservation, without which they’d otherwise be destroyed. So travel is vital, but ideally with a lighter step and a greater positive local impact. How you travel, where you travel, who you spend your money with are all questions worth considering before pressing the go button (and you might want to check out our Travel Trailblazers feature on p124). But once you’ve done your due diligence, loosen the guilt strings. In these pages, you’ll find plenty to whet your wanderlust – from gliding into Courchevel on the Venice-SimplonOrient-Express (we advise you to book now for next season) to navigating the Northern Territories of Australia; from discovering one of our new King’s favourite places, Transylvania, to driving (in an electric car) to the Cornish coast for a sea-splashed weekend. Our Great Escape special has it all (from p99). Iran is probably not on your list to visit – at least not right now. But, says Kamin Mohammadi, who left her beloved home country during the revolution of 1979, her dream of returning 70 is, despite all the fear and horror, beginning to feel a little closer. The female-led uprising, provoked by the brutal killing of Mahsa Amini by the Morality Police, is showing no sign of being quashed by the Islamic Republican government. The power in these protests is palpable, says Kamin, and she urges us all to recognise that Iranian women are fighting on the frontlines of feminism – for their lives, yes, but also for women’s rights all around the world (p80) The more we know about mushrooms, the more we are beginning to understand their incredible powers. And with this knowledge, comes a more acceptable face of psychedelics. Yes, the trip is back, but this time it’s part of a controlled, safe and supportive journey to wellness. Sophie Benge couldn’t be more thankful (p85). Safe travels, wherever you’re heading. 150
14 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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CONTRIBUTORS
Sea-Green Fever, p120
The Frontline of Feminism, p80
Game On, p144
Gentleman Jack, p70
AMELIA WINDSOR
KAMIN MOHAMMADI
BEN McCORMACK
BENJI WILSON
The travel plans you’re most excited for this year? Going hiking in Switzerland in the summer with little pauses for swimming in crystal clear lakes. What’s at the top of your bucket list? I’d love to explore Columbia – it’s been on the top of my list for years. I’d love to travel around for a few weeks in January next year. The best hidden gem destination? Jnane Tamsna Hotel near Marrakech is an incredibly special place. It is such an intimate and peaceful paradise and I always leave filled with beautiful memories. How do you like to travel? Luxury is spoiling but backpacking is spontaneous and adventurous and can lead to unexpected discoveries and encounters with new people. Luxury is always a huge treat though, of course.
The travel plans you’re most excited for this year? I would love this to be the year that I finally return home – to a free Iran! I haven’t been back to Iran for over 15 years now since my first book came out and the current unrest has given me hope that it may be possible to resurrect that dream. What’s at the top of your bucket list? I still haven’t seen the Northern Lights in spite of once spending a week in northern Norway in January looking for them. Snow blizzards didn’t cooperate so this is top of my list for this year. It’s vying for number one along with Ethiopia. How do you like to travel? I love to do a mixture of both five-star luxury and backpacking. I like to keep it mostly real with judicious bursts of luxury for contrast.
The travel plans you’re most excited for this year? A week in Nîmes in May – I love stressfree European train travel. The idea that within half a day and an easy change in Paris (ideally with time factored in for a three-course lunch at Les Arlots near the Gare du Nord) one can be stepping onto a platform in the south of France is magical. What’s at the top of your bucket list? India is my number one bucket list destination, and a country I imagine repays a lifetime of exploring. The best hidden gem destination? Some friends have an old farmhouse in the Ardèche, about an hour’s drive west of Valence. I adore going to stay – one never hears an English accent out and about, there are fabulous food markets, town square cafés for idling in afterwards, and terrific hiking country for walking it all off.
The travel plans you’re most excited for this year? Exploring the valleys of the Quercy in France in August. What’s at the top of your bucket list? I’d love to go to Hokkaido one day. It has mountains, skiing and amazing milk, which all sounds like heaven. The best hidden gem destination? Thailand, Phuket, but just north of the island, a little bit past the Saracen bridge. I’m not saying exactly where so it remains hidden but there’s a stretch of beach as quiet and unsullied as any I’ve seen. How do you like to travel? By railway if at all possible, because airports are hellish and I’m trying to fly less. There are few things in life more civilised than taking a sleeper train and waking up somewhere entirely different, rested and ready to go the next morning.
WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s edit and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter countryandtown
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LUCY CLELAND EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM FEATURES ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER & RUBY FEATHERSTONE FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX JUNIOR ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE ZOEY PHOON CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER MIA BIAGIONI ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH ACCOUNT DIRECTORS PANDORA LEWIS, SERENA KNIGHT DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN BRAND PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER CHRIS HOLT SALES SUPPORT, OFFICE & JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, LYDIA GARD, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, LAUREN HO, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, HOLLY RUBENSTEIN, MARCUS SCRIVEN
THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
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COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2023 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.
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COLUMN
The GOOD LIFE Alice B-B is starting 2023 with a new crush or three
L
Alice limbers up at Love Supreme Projects on Golborne Road
OS ANGELES IN THE 90S... and I was obsessed: a town where everyone seemed to just hang out in cafés; meeting, plotting, writing, and drinking something exotic… green juice. I wanted to move there so badly. But there was one problem… Yoga. I was useless. You couldn’t live in LA and be shit at yoga. So I tried. I went with my best friend Michael to the hottest class (full of gorgeous out-ofwork actors and Tom the handsome teacher, who apparently made naughty movies on the side). Everyone powered through the poses except for… me. Three poses behind and fucking up the seamlessgroup-flow. Instead of emerging feeling zen – like the rest of the stretchy bunch with their Rachel-from-Friends hair – I was so cross I wanted to yank the mats from under their perfect down-dog butts. However, when I headed back to London, I persevered. Until one day something clicked. Now I bloody love it. My new crush is Love Supreme Projects, a studio in a former church on Golborne Road in west London, where the brilliant (and brilliantly named) Luis Valentine teaches perceptively and generously. The space is dreamy; filled with art, strong bodies and kind souls sipping on herbal tea. I never got to live in LA, but the best bits of LA came here. lovesupremeprojects.com A NEW YORK NIGHT OUT… used to be wild. How times have changed. In the Big Apple last month, I popped into Remedy Place, the world’s first social wellness club. Instead of vast whisky sours, young’uns meet for group ice baths, infrared sauna and IV infusions. No waking up the next morning with a biscuit hanging out of your mouth and a vague recollection of snogging the DJ. After a little research I discovered Remedy Place was created by Dr Jonathan Leary, who once decided he would meet someone brand new every week for a whole year. I love this idea. I’m still finding the lockdown hangover a bit too comfortable; seeking solace behind a screen, a phone or at the end of some typed words. Because nothing beats the energy crackle of human connection. So I’m borrowing Dr Leary’s resolution. Look out – I’m coming for you! remedyplace.com IT’S SO HOT… it took months to snare a table. But Strakers on Golborne Road was worth the wait. The buzz is thanks to chef Tom Straker, who performs sensual butter scoops accompanied by appreciatively moaning sounds to his vast social media following. But forgetting all the on-screen food porn – the guy can cook IRL. And design a great menu. And proffer an excellent flask of hot toddy. And create a vibe tingling with youth, beauty and considered ingredients – it made me want to be 20 and apply for a job as a waitress. And that’s probably the only way I’ll get another fix. strakers.london n
THIS MONTH I’LL BE...
HANKERING for a suit by The Vampire’s Wife (thevampireswife.com). HEADING to Tom Davies’ space-age shop on Sloane Square for my yearly eye test (tdtomdavies.com). FEELING LUCKY I bagged a facial at The Bulgari Hotel with Hollywood favourite Adeela Crown (bulgarihotels.com).
ILLUSTRATION BY MEI MEI, @MEIMEI_2503
‘The space is DREAMY; filled with ART, strong BODIES and kind SOULS sipping on HERBAL tea’
20 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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Nina Campbell
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INTERVIEW
The RURBANIST
Mary Berry on the joy of teaching, working hard and making the most of every opportunity
What’s bringing you joy? One thing I love to do is to
cook on the telly – because I have an amazingly big cookery class [of all the viewers], and I love teaching. It’s lovely to share the skill that I love. A current project you’re proud of? My new range of pots and pans. I find cast iron casserole dishes lovely, but I can’t lift them, so we’ve had similar ones made in cast aluminium, which is much lighter, and all non-stick. Plus, cake tins in the sizes people want. I’ve written a lot of cake books and I keep to non-fancy tins that people are likely to use often. Advice to your 15-year-old self? I would give myself a very good lecture about working at school, but also to follow your passion, follow your dreams. Best life advice? Be a good listener and take advantage of all the things that are offered to you, because it makes your life more interesting. City or country? Definitely country. We lived in London when we were first married, in Hillgate Village, and we couldn’t afford a big house. We had to take the wheels off the pram to get it through the door. When we had two boys, and hardly any garden, it was time to move out. There’s so much to do in the countryside – if you like walking it’s free, and you can take your children and dogs, and you feel much better. Where do you go to escape from it all? I don’t want to escape from it, I love it! But my husband and I go away in February when nothing is growing in the garden. And in the summer we go away with all our children and grandchildren, to somewhere they choose. The book you wished you’d written? I haven’t got one! I’m often asked to write a book for university students, but I haven’t had the experience of having children at university, so I don’t feel I’m qualified for that. I might get one of my grandchildren to do it. Your biggest triumph? Being honoured by becoming a dame. It was unexpected, and there aren’t many dames who are cooks. What does a life in balance mean to you? I feel immensely fortunate to have a very happy family around me. At this stage, at 87, I’ve done most things and I love to share what I enjoy with other people.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Dame Mary Berry; lemon drizzle cake; First by Van Cleef & Arpels, £65 (fenwick.co.uk); Le Gavroche; At Home cast aluminium casserole, £69.95. hartsofstur.com
QUICK FIRE FAVOURITES... PERFUME First by Van Cleef & Arpels. CHOCOLATE Amélie Chocolat. SONG Anything by Abba. DISH Lemon drizzle cake. GADGET Sharp knives. RESTAURANT Le Gavroche.
PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; © JODI HINDS; GETTY
Mary Berry’s new ‘At Home’ range of bakeware, utensils and accessories is out now. hartsofstur.com n
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Choosing the perfect villa for your important holiday is not easy, which is why we are here to help at every Choosing the perfect villa for your important holiday is not easy, which is why we are here to help at every step, from our Villa Specialists in the UK to our Destination Experts on hand in location. And with 50 years step, from our Villa Specialists in the UK to our Destination Experts on hand in location. And with 50 years of experience, we know what makes the perfect villa holiday. of experience, we know what makes the perfect villa holiday.
cvvillas.com / 020 3991 2633 cvvillas.com / 020 3991 2633 Greece / Italy / Spain / Portugal / Croatia / France / Morocco / Caribbean / Turkey / Sri Lanka Greece / Italy / Spain / Portugal / Croatia / France / Morocco / Caribbean / Turkey / Sri Lanka
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STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy
The Only Way Is Up It may be grey outside, but your wardrobe doesn’t have to be. Inject your outfits with a dash of fun and flair, with paintbox-bright hues and characterful accessories. It’s not all doom and gloom around here. ganni.com January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 27
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STYLE | Shopping
The
EDIT Mariella Tandy’s style update
RESET YOUR SKIN
Brilliant beauty gadgets to kick off the new year right
GREEN DREAMS
The House of Meraki has teamed up with Gemfields for its new ‘J’aime’ collection, which celebrates the green goddess of jewellery: emeralds. The exquisite pieces use stones responsibly sourced from the company’s Kagem mine in Zambia. houseofmeraki.com; gemfields.com
1 Face Gym Active rollers, £55. facegym.com 2 Foreo Luna Body brush, £129. foreo.com 3 Deesse Pro Mask, £1,440. cultbeauty.com
There’s a new name on the block: Yiatte (pronounced ‘ya-tay’, a luxury label with a simple purpose: to create effortless, timeless styles for the modern woman. Rooted in travel, each limited-edition collection is expertly constructed in Europe from high quality, traceable natural materials. Shirt, £195; pants, £365. yaitte.com
HAPPY SHOPPER
Laura Teasdale’s linen patchwork shopper is designed and made in the UK by hand, out of 100 percent Irish cloth. Hugely durable, it’s one for travel, runs to the farmers market and everything else in between. Sophie shopper, £160. laurateasdale.com
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REJINA PYO Logan Tencel top, £245. rejinapyo.com
ANYA HINDMARCH Diet Coke bag, rent from £42. anyahindmarch.com
IENKI IENKI Keptar vest, £920. koibird.com
OH SO COSY
Canada Goose has teamed up with Reformation this winter to create a collection designed around whimsical prints and bold colours. It unites Canada Goose’s superior warmth and protection with Reformation’s coveted vintage-inspired style. From £175. canadagoose.com TOM DAVIES Kate sunglasses, £295. tdtomdavies.com
ON THE RADAR
FURRY FRIENDS
Brighten up cold winter days with these playful pieces
B SIDES Trousers, £475. netaporter.com
IN THE TRENCHES
KHRISJOY Jacket, £2,600. koibird.com
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Cowboy boots, £695. viviennewestwood.com
Mejuri’s new pet tag collection features an array of options and font choices for you to create your own bespoke piece for your four-legged family. From £38. mejuri.com
JAKKE Coat, £240. harveynichols.com
TROY LONDON X GIGI BURRIS Hat, £345. troylondon.com
Popular in stylish country circles for its signature leather and suede boots and bags, Fairfax & Favor is branching out into the fashion arena with the launch of its new Frances trench coat. Made from soft suede, it features horn buttons and leatherlined epaulettes. The countryside just got chic. £625, fairfaxandfavor.com January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 29
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STYLE | Trend
FLY ME AWAY
Easy-to-pack pieces are the name of the game when jetting off for some winter sun, says Mariella Tandy
VINTAGE
INVEST
RENT
MIU MIU @ RESEE Rhinestone straw hat, £250
IT’S NOW COOL @ KOIBIRD Crochet bikini top, £75; bottoms, £115
ALEMAIS @ KOIBIRD Dress, £410
OCEANUS @ ROTARO Melodie co-ord set, rent from £38
LK BORROWED Saffron shirt dress, monthly subscription for £79 CRO-CHE @ HURR Baby Love dress, from £112.50
JACQUEMUS @ SELFRIDGES RENTAL Bahia dress, rent from £60.72
YSL @ RESEE Belt, £310
MULBERRY Maisie shoulder bag, £495
SOLID & STRIPED @ MY WARDROBE HQ Vero swimsuit, rent from £6
CHANEL @ FARFETCH Bangle, £5,408
DE MELLIER Lisbon tote, £695
HERMES @ HEWI Thalassa espadrille sandals, £333.45
VRAI Shooting star ear climber, £512
MIU MIU @ MY WARDROBE HQ Sunglasses, rent from £8
FOR STOCKISTS PLEASE SEE P146
BORGO DE NOR @ MATCHESFASHION Tati dress, £695
30 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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STYLE | Jewellery THE NEW BLACK
Handcrafted in Denmark and drawing on inspiration from Nordic minimalism, all of Elhanati’s pieces are made in Copenhagen using recycled 18ct solid gold. The most recent collection, Black Orchid, is a high-drama mix of black spinels and diamonds, often paired with velvet ribbons for extra impact. Dita necklace in 18ct yellow gold, black velvet and black spinel, £705. elhanati.com
LOCK IT UP
Marla Aaron’s carabiner necklaces are a must-have addition to any neck mess, or stunning as a statement alone. Create your own playful combinations from her huge array of golds, stones and motifs. From £275. brownsfashion.com
The Magpie
GOT WOOD?
The natural material goes haute this season
Playful gems for a colourful February. By Mariella Tandy
IT’S ALL GREEK
Ysso’s designs are inspired by its founder Stalo, an archaeologist who worked on excavations across Greece in the 1980s. All the brands creations are sculpted by hand and produced in limited quantities. 18ct and 24ct gold plated chain link earrings, £230. theysso.com
1 DIOR Colour Dior earrings in yellow gold, diamonds and ebony, £8,800. dior.com
FABULOUS FANTASY
Scottish jeweller Grainne Morton’s fantastical collection is created from reimagined trinkets she has amassed over decades. Precious and non-precious stones collide with symbols and unexpected motifs. From £90. grainnemorton.co.uk
2 HERMÈS Lift pendant in buffalo horn and lacquered wood, £335. hermes.com 3 LOQUET LONDON Touch Wood Charm, £110. loquetlondon.com 4 SAINT LAURENT Wooden cuff, £1,385. netaporter.com
32 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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COUNTRYSIDE
COLLECTION
One-of-a-kind pieces you’ll love for seasons to come
On Model: Calumet Field Jacket Winter Quarter Sweater R.E.A.L Skinny Ella Jean Moresby Waterproof Boot ariat.com
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STYLE | Men’s TIME TRAVELLERS
Independent watchmaker Andersen Genève have teamed up with Asprey to produce an exceptional wristwatch celebrating the joys of travel and limited to just 24 pieces. Heures du Monde watch, £55,000. andersen-geneve.ch
SCROLL IN STYLE
Holland & Holland’s Royal Scroll pens are produced by fabled British penmaker Onoto to echo the brand’s ‘Royal’ range of shotguns and feature engraved sterling silver caps and chequered barrels as a further nod to its gun-making origins. £900, hollandandholland.com
Well Groomed What’s pinging on Matt Thomas’s style radar this spring
SMELLS GOOD
Pick-me-ups for the face, body and home
NUTS ABOUT TRAVEL
The Peanuts revival craze continues apace as Snoopy and the gang are celebrated across a funky new range of four-wheel luggage, attaché cases and home storage by Globe-Trotter. From £1,095. globe-trotter.com
IN THE PINK
Thomas Pink has returned to the heart of British menswear, Jermyn Street, with a new flagship stocking shirts, knitwear and pyjamas, plus collabs with brands like Ettinger, Mulo and Bamford watches. thomaspink.com
HYGGE HITS
Cosy up with these snuggly seasonal styles…
New & Lingwood Zibellino cashmere dressing gown, £2,500. newandlingwood.com
Carhartt WIP Liberty print pyjama top, £260. carhartt-wip.com
1 THE GREY 3 in 1 Face Cream, £75. brownsfashion.com 2 MOLTON BROWN Brown Recharge black pepper bath and shower gel, £25. moltonbrown.co.uk
Sheep Inc. D.w.F beanie, £80. sheepinc.com Kavu Fleece, £85. johnlewis.com
3 CELLCOSMET ULTRA Cell Ultra Eye Serum-XT, £200. harrods.com 4 SERGE LUTYENS Linen Cupboard room spray, £45. lookfantastic.com
34 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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THE DRAMA RETURNS FOR 2023
BE PART OF THE DR A M A
20 - 24 JUNE 2023 Royal Ascot Early Booking Deadline ends on 31st March 2023 Tickets from £39 | Book at ascot.com today
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Available at
johnbellcroyden.co.uk @johnbellandcroyden
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HEALTH &
WELLBEING Embrace the Elements
PHOTO: JAMES AIKEN BY JACK JOHNS, JACKJOHNS.CO.UK
Ancient philosophers looked to the natural world to find a way of describing energy. We are all a unique blend of the elements: earth, air, fire and water. However, we tend to be dominant in one. Understanding the gifts and challenges associated with that teaches us how to ‘be in our element’. A dive into the holistic therapies, nutrition, movement and mindful activities that keep each element in check is a centuries’ old way to approach wellbeing. Find out more on p40.
January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 37
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Lifestyle Arms are transformed into Michelle Obama-style biceps with Dr Sebagh’s Lanluma body treatment
MIND & MATTER
Life’s little luxuries
SUPPORT A multi-probiotic supplement targeting the key symptoms of menopause, including weight gain, hot flushes, bloating, night sweats, fatigue, low mood, and brain fog. Minerva Wellness Reset, £35. minervawellness.com
Dr Sebagh shares his secrets of prejuvenation with Olivia Falcon
J
anuary and February theoretically should be a clean page to start the year but after the chaos of Christmas some of us might feel more akin to a Jackson Pollock painting. I am no exception and after having some old facial injections dissolved due to filler migration that had left very unsightly pouching around my cheeks, I’m on the hunt for clever, stealthy ways to rejuvenate without looking weird. And so to see Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, the man who pioneered aesthetic treatments in the UK, introducing Londoners to the joys of Botox in the 1990s – he has for decades been ahead of the curve when it comes to rejuvenation. ‘The future is prejuvenation,’ he informs me on arrival. ‘The golden rule to age well is to lift the face before you plump it.’ As a starting point he recommends High Intensity Focused Ultrasound (£800), which effectively lifts skin by heating up the muscular tissue under the skin (otherwise known as SMAS) to tighten the face. When serious jowling and sagging sets in though, you may need to consider Dr Sebagh’s unique 3-D thread Lift (£1,500). ‘I realised if you want to mimic a proper face lift you have to go deep, undermine the skin and pull
the SMAS muscle. I use a technique called Plication,’ he explains, which is best described as a crafty folding technique that lifts sagging muscle without damaging delicate nerve networks. ‘I always use double armed threads [long threads with two needles at each end] that anchor and tether skin in a V or U shape to create more tension and volume in the face by pulling fat and SMAS to restore volume on flattened cheeks. The joy here is you may not need to have filler.’ The effects last 12-18 months although with new Silhouette Soft threads (shorter threads with more cones to pick up tissue) you can get up to 24 months of lift. ‘The thread lift doesn’t replace face-lift but when it’s well done it gives a wonderful softening effect,’ says Dr Sebagh. For sagging bodies, particularly the dreaded bingo wing or notoriously tricky-to-treat saggy knees, Dr Sebagh is getting amazing results from Lanluma body injectables (from £1,500), which smooth crepey skin. Lanluma is with poly-l-lactic acid that induces collagen and fibroblast production to restore inner structure and shape. The injected filler is absorbed by the body, so don’t expect instant results, but if Sebagh’s before and after shots are anything to go by saggy arms are remarkably transformed into more toned Michelle Obama-style biceps. Yes please. drsebagh.com/clinic n
STRENGTHEN Skin geeks have been panting with excitement for this serum that promises to tone down freckles and blemishes with mushroom complex and Tranexamic Acid which also helps to strengthen thin skin. Allies Of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum, £90. alliesofskin.com
SWISH Tailored to your hair type and goals, (more volume, more shine, please) this is the first of its kind made to order shampoos and conditioners with booster shots for added swish. All bottles are made of recycled plastic. Function of Beauty Custom Shampoo, £25. functionofbeauty.com
PHOTOS: © WIKIMEDIA COMMONS/ DOD NEWS
BODY LANGUAGE
38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING Celebrate the very best in Scottish craftsmanship with our cape coat made from 100% pure new wool Harris Tweed hand woven on the Isles of Harris and Lewis in the Outer Hebrides and cut in a classic A-line shape with cosy funnel neck and flattering tie waist. As a 2022 bestseller at our flagship store in Scotland, this stunning statement piece is made in Britain and showcases the quality and commitment to innovative design that you’ll find throughout our collections online and instore.
JOANNE CAPE COAT
TR00777 | £295 (Available in Black Watch Plaid)
TAMMIE HAT
TE12003 | £34.95 (Available in 3 colours)
ARAN TOTE BAG
TB21085 | £84.95 (Available in 3 colours)
To order any item or request a copy of our mail order catalogue or Handmade Gift Catalogue please call 01796 483 236 or visit our website
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness
BODY & SOUL The elements can help us to find inner peace, says Camilla Hewitt
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EARTH
People predominant in the Earth element are structured, consistent characters. Out of balance, they may feel lethargic and complacent. Body brushing is an easy way to invigorate Earth types. In aromatherapy, the scents of eucalyptus and juniper infuse energy. Since oxygen is rocket fuel for mind and body, breathwork is advised, while short bursts of fun, fast movement help combat sluggishness. Seed to Skin body brush, €26.23. seedtoskin.com
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FIRE
Those predominant in the Fire element are energised, focused and passionate. Out of balance, they may feel irritable and impatient. To stabilise that ‘fire in the belly’, beneficial treatments include abdominal massage and reflexology. The cooling scents of sandalwood, mint and lavender can be used to calm the nervous system. In movement, tension relieving activities such a swimming or restorative yoga are recommended. Yardley London English Lavender eau de toilette, £16.99. yardleylondon.co.uk
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AIR
People predominant in the Air element are spontaneous, creative and innovative. Out of balance, they may 2 feel inconsistent and suffer from insomnia. Head in the clouds? Grounding therapies such as hot stone massages regulate the mind and body, while the earthy aromas of basil, rosemary and geranium encourage clarity. The gentle rhythm of tai chi and dance are suited to agile Air types.
WATER
Those of you predominant in the Water element are introspective, intuitive and philosophical. Out of balance, you may feel overly sensitive, withdrawn and fearful. Movement is important to maintain flow; hip-opening postures like pigeon pose encourage a sense of ease. Hot and cold water therapy can be beneficial for circulation, as well as combating feelings of fear. Susanne Kaufmann Mountain Pine Bath Soak, £55. susannekaufmann.com 3
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CHECK IN: LUX* GRAND BAIE, Mauritius
Located on the island’s north shores, Grand Baie is home to the LUX* Me Wellness House. Spanning four floors designed by Kelly Hoppen CBE, the space houses a hydrothermal bath journey, hammam, rooftop gym, as well cycle and yoga studios. Inspired by the elements, the LUX* Me wellness programmes aim to match guests’ energy to air, fire, water and earth. An in-depth consultation allows the team to tweak and tailor the type of spa treatments, movement, breathwork workshops and nutritional guidance included in the programme. BOOK IT: From £400 B&B, luxresorts.com 40 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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Some furniture is made for the here and now. Some is built to stand the test of time. At Neptune, we believe that the best can do both. Good design never grows old.
neptune.com
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Notes
The
SCOOP
Sleeping, fasting and a new haircut. A strong start to 2023 for Charlotte Cole DRIED AND TESTED
I’m way behind the times. I didn’t know that we should be avoiding silicon-based hair products, which turns out to be almost all of them (they weigh the hair down and stop natural moisture getting into the shaft so it eventually ends up dry and frizzy). Ex-Style Director at Michael Van Clarke, Gustave Fouche, however, has come to the rescue. He set up solo on Westbourne Grove in 2021 and this month launches his own range of silicon-free products called Fabulosity (they’re really good). He’s also the master of the dry cut, reasoning (quite rightly) that it’s easier to see your natural shape and the fall of your hair when it’s dry. It’s quite unlike any other haircut I’ve had before. So give yourself a New Year cut and pick up some silicone-free shampoo, too. gustavfouche.com.
TO SLEEP, PERCHANCE TO DREAM…
Would you like to know a secret? Deep in the shiny marble bowels of Claridges’ gargantuan new spa, you’ll find Ross Barr, the acupuncturist the A-list has on speed dial. Not only is he a really nice, intuitive and down-to-earth guy (the no bulls**t king) but his gorgeous wife plays Ursula in Bad Girls, so you can have a good TV gossip before you get down to the business of your health. I came for longstanding sleep issues and after a 15-minute chat, he tracked my sad sleep story back to childhood. Then he set about resetting the shock that a parental divorce can bring (which I’d never quite recovered from) with Five Element Acupuncture, explaining when you undergo emotional trauma of any kind, your body might never quite settle itself back into the smooth running machine it should be, hence it needs a helping hand. Ross is my helping hand – who, along with the deeply relaxing acupuncture sessions, prescribes reading a novel and watching a film (without your phone/laptop within reach) as therapy. That was like music to my ears – permission to relax and switch off. It’s funny how sometimes we need someone to tell us something so simple. From £250. claridges.co.uk/spa
FASTING – THE BUCHINGER WAY
While you’re off the booze and perhaps starting the year dabbling in veganism, give your digestion a break with a fasting box from fabled German detox clinic, Buchinger Wilhelmi. Just launched, you can bring this five-day digestive reset into the comfort of home (although, ensure you’ve banished cookies, chocolate and other tempting treats from your cupboards and clear your social diary first). The regime includes soups enriched with cold-pressed oils and plant-based proteins, fasting minerals, herbal teas and more, totalling around 600 calories a day. It’s fun to see when you’re in ketosis (i.e. when your body burns fat for energy instead of glucose) – with the included ketone test strips. From £173, plus post and packaging. buchinger-wilhelmi-shop.com/en/fastingbox n 42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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SPA Trek
The salty sea air is only one reason to treat your mind, body and soul at Lanserhof’s latest healing house on the German island of Sylt, says Lucy Cleland
PHOTO: UNSPLASH
I
t’s the light you first fall in love with when you arrive on Sylt (pronounced ‘zoolt’). Especially in winter. It illuminates the dark seascapes you can see from your balcony or one of the huge picture windows that are designed for you to sit and gaze out from. It’s best, though, when you get outside and walk or ebike along the coastal roads or tracks; this island is so kind to the biker – there are trails everywhere. You’ll see it rippling over the dark grey sea (maybe you can spot Denmark across the water) or backlighting clouds that Turner would have been proud to paint. It spotlights the sand dunes with their troll-like grass tufts nodding in the bracing salty sea wind, which you gratefully gulp. And this is all before you discover the beach – on the western side. Endless, white, unspoiled, unbelievably beautiful. More gulping. But this, of course, is part of the cure. Welcome to the latest – and third, if you don’t count its London outpost – incarnation of Lanserhof, the preventative health clinic for those with money to plunge into their wellbeing. It follows the doctrine that relaxation, fasting, fresh air and nature – mixed with science and tech – can massively help bring us back from whichever dark path our toxic, busy lives are leading us down. It also, in reality, is the most exclusive of private hospitals, offering everything from colon and skin cancer testing to urology, gastroenterology and cardiology. They even welcome people with dementia and look after them, so that their partners can have a break and reboot 44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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Wellness | HEALTH & WELLBEING
themselves. Most guests, however, are here to destress, learn about how to take care of themselves better – and lose a few pounds. Medical Director Dr Jan Stritzke presides over the Lanserhof cure and is a spritely, enthusiastic advocate of all the magic that happens under the largest thatched roof in Europe (the thatched cottage – quite Hobbity – is the typical Frisian architectural vernacular). A long, healthy life should be very simple, he says: metabolic capacity combined with metabolic flexibility, i.e. how easily and quickly your body can switch between burning fat or carbohydrates and then strengthening and supporting that ability through exercise and fasting. If only it were that simple. Stress (a big factor in not being able to lose weight), busy lifestyles, processed food (this is a really big no-no) and lack of activity are all the enemy of the fit and healthy body. However, his big hack to improve your metabolism (and its flexibility) is to really watch your dinner regime, or basically cut it out three or four times a week. This is so our bodies can spend the night fat-burning (easier said than done, but in case you’re up for it, one two two full days of fasting a week would work as an alternative). And we should, critically, get moving. ‘Sitting is the next smoking,’ he says. That’s right, our sedentary lifestyles are responsible for chronic diseases like diabetes and cancer, and consequently premature death. But these things are easily corrected, he says: ‘The minimum amount of exercise to decrease chronic disease risk is two bouts of 30 minutes of activity weekly – that is if you just want to be preventative. It won’t help you build muscle mass though.’ The ideal is three lots of 50 minutes – and it doesn’t matter if you do it all at once at the weekend i.e. it doesn’t have to be spread out. This lesson in longevity came towards the end of a week in the cosseting arms of Lanserhof, where everything feels still and
A stay at Lanserhof’s latest outpost on Sylt is like wrapping yourself in cashmere and surrendering yourself to the elements, along with doctor-driven medical checks
calm, even when the wind and rain are battering the windows outside. Its pale wood, swathes of taupe, a magnificent swirling central staircase, even suede-lined lifts, are all designed by architect Christoph Ingenhoven – using natural materials and built-in harmony with its surroundings – and are an intrinsic relaxation salve in themselves. The cure can be tough for the uninitiated. For four full days, I drank broth three times a day (day five, food returns begrudgingly). Along with bowel-cleansing Epsom salts in the morning, acid-reducing alkaline powder in between, ahem, meals, and buckets and buckets of water. But this is what I came for – I’m no fasting ingénue, I’m a complete evangelist. Because I know what it can do, even in the tiny amount of time I was there (ten days is really the ideal minimum to get the maximum benefit). You wouldn’t normally find me (on day five) singing and dancing on a beach like a five-year-old – happy and high on my own state of ketosis (when the body starts using fat as its fuel, rather than sugar from food) – but there I was. The rest of the time, I was either reading (down by the fire in the sauna), ebiking around the island with the wind in my hair, watching the fifth series of The Crown on the lower-floor of my vast bedroom and bobbing off in my robe to appointments for cryotherapy – I spent the three minutes in a -110˚C chamber singing the ditty, One, two, three, four, five… Once I caught a fish alive, over and over again and flailing my arms around (but it’s so good for lowering inflammation and helping with joint pain, plus it’s the equivalent of expending 600 calories as your body is working so damn hard to keep warm); hypnotherapy – if you have any issues like sleeping, Heide Ziegenbein is the woman to see; and therapeutic massages all designed to aid detoxification. They also have a programme of Nordic walking, yoga, meditation and breathing that you can dip into at will. You can treat yourself aesthetically too. The beauty range is extensive (and expensive); they even offer Emsculpt. But really, the beauty is all around you on the island – you just have to be able to see it, with a lightened step, clear eyes and focused vision – all of which will be yours at the end of your stay. And, of course, a flatter tummy. A stay here is like wearing haute couture. You can tweak it here, remodel it there, or have it completely redesigned, but you will always look fabulous. At Lanserhof, you will feel fabulous too. BOOK IT: Seven-night Cure Classic including accommodation, from €7,000. lanserhof.com/en/lanserhof-sylt. There are no direct flights, but it’s easy to connect from the major German airports n January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 45
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Take Ten
JET SET, GO
Travel essentials to keep you groomed on the go. By Nathalie Eleni
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Too Faced Better Than Sex Waterproof Mascara Plunge streak-free into the pool with confidence with this waterproof version of Too Faced’s volumising mascara. £25, toofaced.co.uk
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Skin Yoga Kansa Wand Facial & Scalp Massage Tool Keep your face depuffed in-flight or post-travel. Kansa wands have been used for over 5,000 years and predate jade rollers and gua sha; use morning and evening to boost blood flow. £55, skinyoga.com
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GHD Unplugged Cordless Hair Straightener Stay sleek on the go with this clever cordless straightener, delivering up to 20 minutes of styling when fully charged. £299, ghd.com
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Irene Forte Essenziali Rigeneranti Kit This luxurious box contains six essential products, ideal to tackling all your skin needs when travelling, in handy small size pots. £250, ireneforte.com Sculpted by Aimee Beauty Balm A deeply nourishing lip and skin balm formulated with hyaluronic acid and shea butter for hydration and centella asiatica for its skin-healing properties. It comes in a handy small tube. £11, sculptedby aimee.co.uk
Jo Malone Solid Scent Duo Palette Pack your favourite Jo Malone perfumes with no risk of smashes or spillages with this handy solid scent palette. Choose between ten of the brand’s top perfumes. £26, jomalone.co.uk Sports Hai SPF 50 High Protection Lightweight, hydrating and water-resistant, yet still incredibly effective against the sun’s harmful rays, this SPF 50 tinted sunscreen from Sports Hai will keep you protected while on the go. £45, sportshai.com
Pärla Pro Toothpaste Tabs Toothpaste tabs are the next gen of oral care and are great for travel – as well as being a plastic-free choice. Subscribe for £8/month. parlatoothpastetabs.com Jet Candy Say goodbye to jet lag, anxiety and germs with this handy travel pack containing rosescented Hand Sanitiser, mini Plane Remedy and either a full-sized Plane Remedy or Botanical Travel Essence. £40, email flywith@jet-candy.com
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
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We Are Concentrate Shampoo & Conditioner Up to 70 percent of a bottle of shampoo is water – 90 percent for conditioner. We Are Concentrate’s production method reuses waste water and saves around 30,000l a year. £14 each, weareconcentrate.com
46 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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News | HEALTH & WELLBEING
Beauty BUZZ
What’s on the tide for skincare? asks Nathalie Eleni GET THE GLOW
ZIIP ZAP
This vitamin-enriched, ultrahydrating day cream contains a broad-spectrum SPF within a genius colour-adaptive formula to create a sheer veil across the skin to blur imperfections and soften the appearance of fine lines, making it the perfect day cream no matter your destination. QMS Medicosmetics Active Glow SPF 15 Tinted Day Cream, £78. lookfantastic.com
Small enough to fit into your carry on, this nifty little device uses nanocurrent and microcurrent technology to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin to lift, tone and rejuvenate your face. ZIIP Beauty Nanocurrent Skincare Device, £425. currentbody.com
SET SAIL FOR YOUR NEXT SPA DAY
PHOTOS: PEXELS
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE
Following her teenage daughter’s struggle with acne, Wild Science Lab founder Zoe Wasfy drew on her background in R&D to uncover naturally derived ingredients that support rather than strip blemished skin. The result is a clinically proven, three-step skincare routine for women of all ages who experience acne. £70, wildsciencelab.com
The luxurious new Norwegian Prima cruise liner will be hitting European harbours this year, with its Mandara spa featuring the first charcoal sauna at sea. Designed to boost circulation and speed up the metabolism while helping to remove toxins from the body, the sauna is the perfect onboard treat to soothe any aches. Incorporate this with The Cellutox Aroma Spa Ocean Wrap, which improves the appearance of cellulite and reduces fluid retention with a detoxifying blend of juniper and lemon essential oils to decongest and stimulate the body. The spa also boasts experiential showers, a flotation salt pool, an infrared sauna, two Welnamis vibroacoustic therapy beds, and 22 hot stone loungers. Guests can arrange to stay in one of the 28 exclusive spa balcony staterooms, which provide premium access to the spa and its suite of thermal experiences. Norwegian Prima 11-night cruise sailing from London to Reykjavik, Iceland from £1,749pp. ncl.com
HOW TO… GIVE YOUR SKIN A NEW LOOK FOR 2023 ADVICE FROM C&TH’S BEAUTY DIRECTOR
Revive your winter complexion with Skin Design London’s Face Tight Infusion, available at John Bell & Croyden’s Wigmore Street store. This innovative treatment involves three key steps, including a vitamin skin peel followed by a Glow Vitamin Pen which combines microneedling with electroporation to feed the skin with targeted formulas. It’s finished with thermal radio frequency and a cupping technique to tighten and lift the jowl, cheekbones, plump dehydrated lips and deliver lymphatic drainage. £350 for 60min, johnbellcroyden.co.uk January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 47
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The Winter Sale is now on. www.cphart.co.uk | 0345 600 1950
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CULTURE Street Art
PHOTO: LIL CRAZY LEGS © MARTHA COOPER (1983)
The Saatchi Gallery’s latest exhibition, Beyond the Streets London, is curated by graffiti historian Roger Gastman and gathers together over 100 international artists. The large-scale show examines the fundamental human need for public self-expression, and explores influential moments in the history of the artistic movement. 17 Feb to 9 May 2023, saatchigallery.com
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CULTURE | What’s On
THE CULTURAL CALENDAR
It’s romancing season – fall in love with these events, says Tessa Dunthorne
GET ON YOUR DANCING SHOES
MEDICI AND ME
The V&A’s Donatello: Sculpting the Renaissance is the first major UK exhibition exploring the vast skills of legendary sculptor Donatello. Aesthetes rejoice; for the first time on our isles, Donatello’s David will be on display – and as starkers as Michelangelo’s take on the biblical figure. From 11 Feb, vam.ac.uk
WORD SEARCH
Out-Spoken is a soul-healing night filled with the best emerging poets and R&B musicians that you’ll be hearing everywhere in six months’ time, hosted by Joelle Taylor. 23 Feb, southbankcentre.co.uk
A BATH FOR SELF-CARE
ReBalance Bath is a three-week celebration of the city’s thermal waters and brilliant spa offerings. From guided mediations and sound therapy, to laughter yoga at The Vitality Studio, it promises the ultimate relaxing escape. 7-25 Feb, welcometobath.co.uk
LET’S RIDE
Syon Park is revving up with collectible cars with the return of The London Classic Car Show. Discover what’s going on under the bonnet in the capital’s classic car scene. 25 Feb, theclassiccarshowuk.com
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PHOTOS: © MARC BRENNER
Your last chance to catch Turner on Tour at the National Gallery. The landmark exhibition is the first time two of his prized paintings have returned to the UK in over a century; catch his depiction of the Harbour of Dieppe and a dusky evening in Cologne before it sets sail back across the Atlantic. Until 19 February 2023, nationalgallery.org.uk
Dirty Dancing is shimmying back to London theatres after a successful run last year. Catch Johnny and Baby at the Dominion Theatre as they break down the rules of the resort. Just don’t book a corner seat, obviously. nederlander.co.uk
PHOTOS: COLOGNE, THE ARRIVAL OF A PACKET-BOAT: EVENING JOSEPH MALLORD WILLIAM TURNER 1826, OIL ON CANVAS 168.6 X 224.2 CM © THE FRICK COLLECTION, NEW YORK / PHOTO MICHAEL BODYCOMB
L’EXPOSITION ON TOUR
Emma Corrin stars in the Garrick's Orlando
The Critical LIST
Settle in for the cold snap
Loved the Christmas special of Bad Education? You’re in luck: season four of the hit BBC sitcom has dropped, with Jack Whitehall, Layton Williams and Charlie Wernham returning to Abbey Grove. bbc.co.uk/iplayer
TV
THE C&TH GUIDE TO THE…
LGBTQIA+ HISTORY MONTH
U
ntil 2003, Section 28 in the Local Government Act banned schools from discussing or publishing materials around queerness. The first attempt to repeal this act came in February two years prior – and now, that step in the right direction is remembered with LGBTQIA+ History Month. February now celebrates the history of queerness across the country, and raises awareness of the achievements of those in the community today alongside those who came before. There are masses of activities taking place – so we’ve made a pick of what to do and see for a month of learning and entertainment. IN LONDON
PHOTOS: © MARC BRENNER
PHOTOS: COLOGNE, THE ARRIVAL OF A PACKET-BOAT: EVENING JOSEPH MALLORD WILLIAM TURNER 1826, OIL ON CANVAS 168.6 X 224.2 CM © THE FRICK COLLECTION, NEW YORK / PHOTO MICHAEL BODYCOMB
Less party than Pride, but no less important – nor is it lacking in fun stuff to do, says Tessa Dunthorne
February halfterm looking daunting? Head to the National Maritime Museum. From Elizabethan costume workshops (think big, think camp) to making Pride flag rainbow fish, expect brilliant educational activities aimed at kids to fill up that otherwise dreaded time off. rmg.co.uk Theatre more your thing? The big hitter right now is the Garrick's Orlando starring The Crown’s Emma Corrin as Virgina Woolf's groundbreaking genderqueer character (until 25 February, thegarricktheatre.co.uk). There’s also the critically acclaimed My Son's a Queer (But What Can You Do?) at the Ambassadors Theatre (until 18 March, atgtickets.com). Vault
Margot Robbie, Brad Pitt and Tobey Maguire star in Damien Chazelle’s Babylon, an epic three-hour extravaganza set in the golden age of Hollywood. Out now
FILM
Craft time at the National Maritime Museum
Festival is also on, offering a curated programme of the best new work. We recommend Queer Planet, which follows drag king Bi-Curious George discovering queer ecology à la David Attenborough, or sapphic love story, How We Begin. Until 19 March, vaultfestival.com. ELSEWHERE
Manchester: Queer Contact Festival (ongoing, contactmcr.com). Birmingham: the permanent queer collection at the Museum and Art Gallery (ongoing, birminghammuseums.org.uk). Bristol: Lavender play and panel discussion (8 Feb, thewardrobetheatre.com). Read the full guide at countryandtownhouse.com
In new monthly podcast Book Chat, writers Pandora Sykes and Bobby Palmer are sharing their reading recommendations. The only rule? Books must be at least two years old. Discussions are meaty and in-depth – so beware of spoilers. Apple Podcasts
PODCAST Selected as a writer to watch in 2023 by The Observer, Georgina Moore's debut novel, The Garnett Girls, follows three sisters on the Isle of Wight as they traverse family secrets, love affairs and betrayal. HQ, £14.99
BOOK
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CULTURE | What’s On
PREVIEW
Get up close and colourful at David Hockney’s new immersive exhibition, says Ellie Smith
A
long with those ever-elusive NFTs, immersive exhibitions are all the rage in the art world at the moment. The latest? A new show from one of the biggest artists of our time, David Hockney. He’s putting on the launch exhibition for Lightroom, a brand-new four-storeyed space in King’s Cross kitted out with the latest digital projection and audio technology. The show, David Hockney: Bigger & Closer (Not Smaller & Further Away), will take audiences on a journey through his career to date, featuring a selection of his most beloved works alongside some new creations. Across six themed chapters, visitors will gain insight into his artistic processes and ideas, with commentary from Hockney himself
alongside a score from Nico Muhly. We’ll see Hockney capturing the joy of spring on his iPad, and the sheer size of the Grand Canyon with paint, as well as him putting together his famed polaroid collages. ‘The world is very very beautiful if you look at it, but most people don’t look very much,’ says Hockney, in the exhibition’s voiceover. ‘They scan the ground in front of them so they can walk, they don’t really look at things incredibly well, with an intensity. I do.’ Hockney’s show will be the first in a series of shows at Lightroom, all of which will captivate audiences with special visual and audio effects. David Hockney: Bigger & Closer (Not Smaller & Further Away), 25 January to 23 April 2023, lightroom.uk
MY Cultural Life
Broadcaster and actor Mim Shaikh loves the Impressionists – and Drake I’m tuning into… Kaleidoscope on Netflix. I’m reading… Ethan Kross’s Chatter. The last thing I watched was… Black Panther:
Wakanda Forever.
Installation of one of Hockney's best-loved works, Gregory Swimming Los Angeles March 31st 1982
My favourite painting… Water Lilies by Claude Monet. My favourite film of all time… Enemy of the State. The music I always have on repeat… Drake. My ultimate cultural recommendation…
Three Idiots, the 2009 Hindi coming-of-age comedy. Cultural guilty pleasure… Backstreet Boys.
David Hockney views the model box containing August 2021, Landscape with Shadows ahead of the installation
is the reaction from the British public to our film. The film is… a beautiful synergy. It fuses both British and Pakistani cultures together and offers such a nice, modern reflection of multicultural Britain. There’s love, romance, cultural nuances, and cheeky one liners both for English audiences and audiences who understand Urdu, the native language of Pakistan! Working with a strong South Asian cast is… rare and a beautiful thing. When I read this screenplay, I was literally in awe. I was so happy – and I told my mum straight away that I’m going to be working with the Bollywood legend Shabana Azmi... I sent over a picture with her to my family. The look on [mum's] face was beautiful. What’s Love Got To Do With It is in cinemas on 24 February
PHOTOS: © MARK GRIMMER
What I’m most looking forward to seeing…
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Books | CULTURE
TRAVELS ON THE PAGE Richard Hopton reviews three books about journeys
PHOTOS: © MARK GRIMMER
1
THE ROMANTIC by William Boyd
The hero of William Boyd’s latest novel, Cashel Greville Ross, had a peripatetic life. Born in Scotland in 1799 he lived in, visited or explored in the course of a long life Ireland, England, Belgium, India, Italy, France, Massachusetts, East Africa, Trieste, Germany, Rhodes, and Venice dying in 1882 in Austria, appropriately enough at a railway station. Born in the age of horsepower and sail, he lived to travel by steamship and railway. The Romantic is a whole-life novel, a form in which Boyd excels. The New Confessions, Any Human Heart, and Sweet Caress are other examples of his novels in this form that, taken together, constitute his best work. Presented as a biography rendered fictionally, it charts Ross’s life as a soldier, travel-writer, farmer, brewer, explorer, lecturer, diplomat, and detective. A terrific read. (Viking, £20)
2
THE HALF-KNOWN LIFE, by Pico Iyer
Can paradise exist on earth, especially in our strife-torn, divided world? Th is is the question Pico Iyer attempts to answer in this thoughtprovoking book. In search of an answer, Iyer visits Iran, North Korea, Belfast, Kashmir, Broome in the Australian outback, Jerusalem, Ladakh, Sri Lanka, Koyasan in Japan, and Varanasi, by any reckoning a disparate array of places in which to search for an earthly nirvana. He has an acutely observant eye for the telling detail and a delicious turn of phrase. Describing Sri Lanka, he writes, ‘this might have been India in a rocking chair, on a verandah above the sea.’ The book is suff used with a monkish otherworldliness, an almost mystical, philosophical calm. Iyer wanders and watches but he also wonders and thinks and as he does, so do we. (Bloomsbury, £16.99)
3
PATH OF PEACE: WALKING THE WESTERN FRONT WAY by Anthony Seldon
In the summer of 2021 Anthony Seldon, historian and retired headmaster, walked the 1,000 kilometres of the Western Front from the Swiss border to the North Sea to publicise the idea of a memorial path commemorating the sacrifices of the First World War. Path of Peace tells the story of this epic walk of a million or so paces. As Seldon strides across France, he tells the local stories of the war, of individual battles, and of the permanent changes they wrought to the landscape and way of life. It’s also an account of the delights and tribulations of the walk itself – he is bitten by a dog at one point – a meditation on war and a personal reckoning following the death of his wife and the start of another phase of life. (Atlantic Books, £20)
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CULTURE | Books dead by a 16-year-old. Her husband, a gentle tai chi master, has three guns. I don’t miss living in America. But it’s a nice place to visit, for streetwise people.
BIBLIO FILE
You’re famously a late starter, encouraged by Jonathan Franzen. Any regrets? I am glad my more
Nell Zink talks love and survival with Belinda Bamber
ambitious juvenilia has been lost to time. The creativity that arises from authentically jaded world-weariness is much more interesting to me.
Avalon is partly a romantic comedy. Are you an optimist about love? I’m an optimist
Do you have certain readers in mind? It varies from book to book. The
about friendship. Sex based on long-term mutual attraction is a beautiful gift, but so many people take it as a cue to get married; sex without sexual freedom is icky.
Wallcreeper was for Jonathan Franzen, just as Private Novelist was for my friend Avner Shats. Avalon was written for a Peter-like friend who’s a professor of German literature. Doxology was aimed at a certain critic at the New York Times, who obligingly gave it a rave. I wrote Nicotine for myself alone. Once after a festival in rural Ireland, Edmund White and Colm Toibin offered me a ride back to Dublin in Toibin’s Daimler and revealed they both liked Mislaid. That’s still the most meaningful accolade I’ve ever received. They were a bit disappointed I’m not gay, but frankly, so am I.
Bran is an Audrey Hepburn-lookalike camouflaged by oversized men’s shirts. Why? The beautiful women I know all have
horror stories of being groped and worse. So it made sense to me that a good-looking girl who isn’t sheltered shelters herself with tent-like clothes. Plus, Audrey is a two-edged sword. She’s a cult figure, but not sultry. It’s not straight men who turned her into a pin-up girl. Why did you give away the ending on the first page? Bran feels ambivalence about her
attachment to Peter, and the novel is framed as her confession – an attempt to excuse falling in love, when it’s never justifiable and in this case particularly dubious. He adores her, but only when he’s willing to admit to himself that she exists.
Your characters are vividly relatable. Is your brain peopled with a vibrant world? My brain
The dialogue is deliciously pacy. I get the feeling you enjoyed writing Avalon… Very
much so. It’s my most autobiographical book, so it basically wrote itself.
Avalon tells the story of female emancipation, love and survival
Are any films of your novels in the offing?
I’ve had two optioned by prominent indie studios, I think for $5,000 and $10,000, but never one of those meetings where they fly you to Hollywood. I’d be no help with casting. I don’t think I can name an actor under 35. Your books feature different ethnicities and sexual orientations. Does cancel culture give you pause? I have too much faith in the cultural
since college, because that’s where all the harmless people were. Conservatives always seem a bit medieval to me, feeling solidarity only with their own families and fetishising the military in a way that privileges men as citizens. My desire to live in a just society under the rule of law in an intact natural environment hasn’t really shifted.
Where does your strong moral compass come from? Politically, I’ve been on the left
neighbourhood in Philadelphia came to visit. A man on their block had used his handgun to defend himself from a carjacking and was shot
and economic predominance of the neoliberal right to worry about being cancelled by someone to my left.
You live in Germany but write about America. What do you miss? A friend from a nice
needs to be actively ‘peopled’ simply because my memory is so bad. When I want to remember something, I have to put it into words. I say to myself, ‘gray fish with two black spots’ or ‘slept with an artist who made gigantic cows out of papier-mâché and called her to whisper, “Moo”.’ I like stories, and when a friend tells me a good one, I repeat it to myself over and over. It’s a bit like how people lived before television. Which writers do you seek out? The ones I turn to for solace tend to be expressionists from the 1920s or 30s: Andrei Platonov, Robert Walser. Among ‘writers to watch’ is Jan Wilm, a versatile German; Catherine Lacey, who’s exceptionally perceptive and gifted; and Joshua Cohen – a flaming sexist with bells on, but I have high hopes for his next book. Avalon by Nell Zink (Faber £14.99). Read the full interview on countryandtownhouse.com
PAGE-TURNERS TO KEEP OUT THE COLD MESMERISING Kevin Jared Hosein’s Hungry Ghosts, set in Trinidad, will break your heart (Bloomsbury, £16.99, 16 Feb); a MYSTERIOUS ‘sitting-down’ illness haunts Hanna Jameson’s Are You Happy Now (Penguin, £14.99, 2 Feb); MURKY pasts catch up with the cool girls in Heather Darwent’s crisp debut, The Things We Do to Our Friends (Penguin, £14.99); a comedy of MANNERS makes for a droll detective caper in The Other Half by Charlotte Vassal (Faber, £14.99); and for more MIRTH try Schitt’s Creek writer Monica Heisey’s dating frolic, Really Good, Actually (4th Estate, £19.99) n 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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CULTURE | News
GOOD NEWS
The feel-good stories changing the world for the better
HEALTH MATTERS
Women in Spain will say ‘hola’ to some progressive health policies in 2023, as new legislation (awaiting final approval by the Senate) gives women with painful periods the option of statefunded work leave, if recommended by a doctor. It will also open up access to abortion by making it a public health right.
GROWING GREEN
Electric may be the future – but many experts agree that batteries need to be cleaner, greener, and faster to charge. One solution by Finnish renewable materials company and forestry owner Stora Enso is Lignode, a battery component made from the lignin polymer contained within trees, which replaces graphite in EV batteries. Using a highly complex, top-secret process that begins during the company’s existing pulping process (meaning no more trees have to be felled), the brand says it’ll be able to produce a battery that can be charged in only eight minutes. storaenso.com
BEAM ME UP
NHS breast cancer patients are taking part in a worldfirst trial of a pioneering proton beam therapy. The treatment, formerly only used for brain and spinal cord cancers, targets tumours far more accurately than standard radiotherapy, and could potentially reduce unwanted side-effects like long-term heart problems.
ALL PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © VARIAN MDEICAL SYSTEMS
BURIED TREASURE A 2,000-year-old Mayan civilisation has been discovered in Guatemala using a LiDAR detection system (based on laser light not radio waves) that penetrates the thick jungle canopy. It discovered more than 1,000 settlements over 650 sq/miles, linked by 110 miles of human-made causeways. Pyramids, ball courts, canals and reservoirs were also found.
GOING NUCLEAR
Scientists at California’s Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory have made a potentially world-changing breakthrough in nuclear fusion. The opposite of nuclear fission (the process of splitting an atom to produce large amounts of energy), researchers managed to combine atoms to produce a greater amount of energy than was used to trigger the reaction. Although we’re still a long way from producing clean energy from nuclear fusion, it’s still a leap in the right direction. 56 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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LET THERE BE LIGHT
WALKING ON WATER
Danish architectural studio Mast, in collaboration with Hubert Rhomberg and venture studio Fragile, has developed a new solution for building on top of water. With sea levels rising and urban flooding risks looming, it proposes a sustainable building solution for a watery future landscape: flat-pack modules made from reinforced, recycled plastic can be configured to create a secure floating foundation on which buildings and infrastructure can be constructed. mast.dk EMISSION ARREARS COP27 ended with a historic deal to establish a loss and damage fund, which will direct compensation from countries with the highest carbon emissions to those countries suffering the most severe effects of climate change. A 2020 report suggested that, without urgent action, the number of people requiring humanitarian aid due to climate change will have doubled by 2050. thelancet.com
RECYCLING IDEAS The world’s first materials and systems solution platform has launched. PlasticFree hosts in-depth reports on the best alternatives to plastic on the market, empowering brands to remove waste from our everyday products. plasticfree.com
CHILDREN FOR CHANGE
RHINOS RELOCATED
ALL PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © VARIAN MDEICAL SYSTEMS
A staggering 35,000 bulbs have been planted at Chiswick House & Garden – and, in addition to an impressive floral display, will provide vital food for pollinators like bees in the spring. The Garden has taken this step to help plant more resilient ecological networks which support London’s pockets of wildlife. chiswick houseandgardens.org.uk
In 2021, the near-threatened white rhino population was subject to the world’s largest translocation of the species, from a private game reserve to Rwanda’s Akagera National Park. At the beginning of 2023 it was reported that the population is flourishing. Several white rhino calves have been born and the open wetlands have proven a brilliant natural habitat for the crash of rhinos. visitrwanda.com
Earth Warriors, the world’s first organisation solely dedicated to creating comprehensive climate education for children under 11, has recently expanded its programme to Zambia and Botswana. It now provides free-of-charge teacher training and a curriculum to 20 schools in Africa, linking them to students in India, the UK and the USA in order to create a global network of pen pals united in a climate mission. Read more at countryandtownhouse.com
AND IN THE HEADLINES
DIG IN The English Government has announced plans to ban single-use dinnerware, from styrofoam to plastic cutlery. PARK IT The French senate has called for all car parks to cover a minimum of 80 spaces with solar panels by July 2028 – generating the equivalent energy of ten nuclear reactors. LAYER UP The Earth’s ozone layer is on course to make a full recovery within four decades, according to the UN. January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 57
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The future looks bright as the Britishdeveloped Polestar Electric Roadster will become Polestar 6 in 2026
POLE(STAR) POSITION: THE E-VOLUTION HAS ARRIVED
T
he new Swedish car-maker Polestar has become the byword for cutting-edge technology and electric performance. Six years ago, few people would have even recognised the brand’s badge – now the stylised polar star is one of the coolest bonnet logos on the road. If you haven’t heard of Polestar, read on. The all-electric car brand is backed by Volvo Cars and Chinese conglomerate Geely, with ambitious plans to not only put the emotion back into cars but also improve the society we live in. Polestar is synonymous with great design and innovative technology that enables the future of sustainable mobility. With high output electric motors, large capacity batteries and avant-garde styling, it is also changing the way we drive for good. Everybody knows electric car technology delivers an amazing driving experience but Polestar calls itself a digital-first brand. Its online buying platform is groundbreaking, redefining the retail automotive model (gone are the pushy salespeople in the showroom) and putting the car buyer in control. Combine this with ‘over-the-air’ updates that don’t require a time-consuming visit to a dealership, plus an owner’s app that links driver to car at all times, and it easy to see why Polestar is leading the way in technology.
An icon already, you’ll recognise a Polestar by its stand-out design
Upholstery options include vegan textiles or soft Nappa leather
Their strong links to Volvo mean that every Polestar benefits from their latest safety equipment, too – that’s almost 100 years of know-how. The Polestar 2 was the safest EV tested at launch in 2020 by Euro NCAP – the benchmark for crash tests – and still retains a five-star rating. It is also a beautiful, practical fastback in the premium EV segment, featuring the world’s first infotainment system powered by Android, with Google built in. The unique interface uses an 11-inch portrait-mode screen, with voice control, Google Assistant, Maps, Play Store and much more. Three versions of Polestar 2 are available, with up to 337 miles of battery range and 408hp of power. Standard equipment in every model includes LED headlights, an eight-speaker audio system, as well as power-operated tailgate and vegan upholstery (with Nappa leather as an option). Polestar 2 has already proved itself as one of the most complete electric cars money can buy, majoring on build quality, safety and driveability. However, they’re not resting on their laurels – there are three more models coming in just the next three years. Polestar 3 is their first electric SUV and is on sale now with first customer deliveries at the end of the year. An aerodynamic masterclass,
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PHOTOS: POLESTAR
If you love to have fun with cars, but also want one that’s kind to the planet and is led by design, JEREMY TAYLOR explains why you should look no further than Polestar, the all-electric car brand taking Britain’s streets by storm
PHOTOS: POLESTAR
C &T H X P O L E S TA R PA R T N E R S H I P
this dual motor model all-wheel drive features air suspension, welfare-certified leather, traceable wool upholstery and unique 22-inch wheels. Polestar 4 is also expected to arrive later this year – a stylish, SUV coupe that looks like nothing else on the road. Then, 2024 will see the launch of Polestar’s halo model, the Polestar 5 luxury GT. I saw this 870hp on show at Goodwood Festival of Speed last summer and it promises a thrilling drive. Perhaps the most thrilling prospect of all is the Polestar 0 project, the marque’s moon-shot goal to produce a truly carbon neutral car by 2030. The makers say that this model will eliminate, not reduce, greenhouse gas emissions from every aspect of production. From concept to customer delivery, the Polestar 0 project will create a new electric vehicle without resorting to simply offsetting. So, zero really will mean zero – leaving future owners with a clear conscience. Polestar hopes the car will Polestar 2 was the safest EV tested be a catalyst for change across the entire at launch in 2020 by euro NCAP – the benchmark for crash tests automotive sector. This push to be fully transparent about sustainability is key to the Polestar ethos. To ensure buyers get the information they need to make an informed, ethical decision, the current Polestar 2 has a downloadable Life Cycle Assessment that reveals the car’s lifetime carbon footprint. And for those who prefer two wheels instead of four, Polestar has been branching out into other areas of transportation. Working with Swedish electric motorcycle manufacturer CAKE, it has created MAKKA – an urban bike that’s elegant, minimalistic and super chic. MAKKA isn’t the only two-wheeler either – a collaboration with Allebike to build the Alpha Polestar Edition Snow, sees a peddle power mountain bike cut from carbon-fibre that boasts both front and rear Ohlins suspension. Finally, proving that electric propulsion isn’t just restricted to the road, last summer Polestar signed an agreement to provide battery and charging systems to Swedish hydrofoil electric boat company, Candela. Candela’s eye-catching craft produce zero emissions and minimal noise, combining a light environmental footprint with a smoother cruising experience. This EV of the sea should help speed up the mass adoption of electric boats, providing major advantages to the environment. IT’S NOT JUST CARS EITHER... Polestar is creating the ultimate As Polestar drives ahead with plans for new car models all-electric lifestyle by collaborating in 2023 and beyond, CEO Thomas Ingenlath, adds, with partners that share its values: see Makka – Polestar edition by ‘We made the promise never to compromise on the CAKE, a super-cool electric moped product, its design or the experience. Now, as we expand for city commutes; and Candela our automotive offer, each will maintain its unique C-POD, the most energy-dense electric boat motor ever created, design, premium quality and fun driving experience.’ with batteries supplied by Polestar. You can’t say fairer than that.
Polestar 3 – its first all-electric SUV model – is on sale now, with customer deliveries due at the end of the year
POLESTAR SO FAR… Polestar dates back to 1996 – when electric cars were still a pipe dream. Under the name Flash Engineering, the motorsport firm developed an everyday Volvo 850 saloon to compete in the Swedish Touring Car Championship. Swedish rally champion Jan ‘Flash’ Nilsson led the company, enjoying instant success by winning the 1996 championship for Volvo. More success following until 2005, when the business was sold to Christian Dahl, renaming it Polestar Racing. Four years later, Polestar Performance became the official Volvo partner for modifying existing models. One of its first models was the C30 Polestar Concept, a powerful, all-wheel drive coupe with thrilling handling. Other models followed until 2017, when Polestar became an independent electric car brand, with CEO Thomas Ingenlath, previously Volvo’s head of design, at the helm. The breathtakingly stylish Polestar 1 was the first model – a 619hp fourseat coupe with hybrid technology. Six years on and with a fleet of new models on the cards, Polestar’s future is already shaping up to be a bright one. polestar.com
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CULTURE | Social Scene
Amelia Windsor and Paris Scozier
Arizona Muse, Anabel Kindersley, George Lamb and Thomasina Miers
Anya Hindmarch
Jess Rogers and Jacques Sheehan
Journey TO ZERO Celebrating why sustainability and luxury should go hand in glove
I
Izzy Manuel and Lucy Cleland
Edeline Lee
nfluencers, guests, friends and readers of Country & Town House gathered before Christmas for a beautiful vegan feast at The Petersham in Covent Garden for ‘Journey To Zero’, an event examining how luxury and sustainability should go hand in glove. Speakers and panellists, including Arizona Muse, Anya Hindmarch, George Lamb, Anabel Kindersley and Dahlia Nahome, amused, delighted, inspired and educated the audience in equal measure – and from the buzz in the room, the conversations around the tables were equally enthralling. Sponsored by Skydiamond – the only diamond that is carbon negative – curated by Baillie Newman, and with support from Polestar, Neal’s Yard Remedies, Lampoo and LK Bennett Borrowed, ‘Journey to Zero’ is part of C&TH’s commitment to championing better practice by brands and companies when it comes to safeguarding our planet and all its precious inhabitants.
Dahlia Nahome
Dominique Palmer
Mahira Kalim
Bay Garnett
Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey and Clare Richardson
Mariella Tandy and Rosalyn Wikeley
Bianca Foley and Charlotte Williams Lucia Poli, Irene Frosinini and Ruby Bertorelli
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BESPOKE FIT TED WARDROBES, STUDIES & LIVING ROOM UNITS
B R E N T W O O D | C H E L S E A | H A M P ST E A D | H A M P TO N H I L L | H ATC H E N D W W W. N E AT S M I T H . C O . U K
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CULTURE | Art Robert Montgomery creates art that brings poetry into our everyday lives
ROBERT MONTGOMERY n 2004, Robert Montgomery – by then an established artist – got involved with the Stop The War coalition. ‘I was campaigning and marching with them, but it started to affect me personally. I felt stressed, couldn’t sleep. I felt like the only thing I could do was to write poems and put them up on billboards at night.’ Robert had posted his dreamlike art-poems on London streets for years, but these were more politically sensitive than most. One said: ‘When we are sleeping, aeroplanes carry memories of the horrors we have given our silent consent to into the night sky of our cities, and leave them there to gather like clouds and condense into our dreams before morning.’ ‘I felt,’ says Robert, ‘as though the war was permeating all of our dreams. There’s a psychic debt – it came out of that.’ His work was perfect for the situation: art that exists for everyone, addressing its audience directly. Robert studied painting in Edinburgh. ‘I tried every single way of fitting painting and words together, and almost all of them failed,’ but in his postgraduate year he posted poems up on billboards and bus stops with fellow artist John Ayscough. Alongside long days in the studio, he studied Sylvia Plath, Philip Larkin and Ted Hughes. ‘I thought, “what’s this space between poetry and painting?” There is an existing tradition of text art. I’m trying to bring the voice of poetry into that space, or take text a step closer to the voice of poetry.’ Robert’s work popped up occasionally on huge billboards around Old Street and nearby Hoxton – an area of East London where advertising
companies congregate and hipster coffee shops were embraced early on. His first billboard read: ‘The spectacle of advertising will create images of false beauty so suave and so impossible to attain that you will hurt inside and never even know where the hurt comes from.’ Stopping to read this lengthy, emotionally vulnerable text in the street felt in itself rebellious, as crowds of ad execs rushed past. Robert is resolute about the power of poetry to heal. ‘The dominant types of language – news, advertising, social media – they all treat us as objects. A demographic, a number, a consumer, a voter: they tally it up and judge us. And we do it to each other. The language of poetry is the language of the inside of us, which can reconcile the brokenhearted inner child with the world outside.’ We are sitting in his new house, a huge Victorian pile he has bought with his wife Greta, also a poet. In the dining room, a huge photo of a poem from their wedding day hangs on the bright pink wall. It reads: ‘Salvage paradise. Love is the weather. Daydreams forever’. In the picture, the poem is on fire, flames licking and consuming each letter. These poems have appeared at Edinburgh Art Festival and in Paris’s Tuileries Gardens where they were also set on fire, a ceremonial sharing and end of the poem. Robert’s art reach audiences in the street as well as in galleries, proving poetry is not just for books and a quiet nook of a library. We can live, speak and feel it everyday too. robertmontgomery.org n
PHOTOS: © PHILIP VOLKERS
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Caiti Grove visits the artist finding the ‘space between poetry and painting’
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Art | CULTURE
The EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey takes an artistic adventure around the foodie world
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PHOTOS: © SIMON BROWN
or an issue devoted to travel, what better way to address the theme than suggesting a tour of fine art collections around the world – but this time with the bonus of a delicious meal. Thanks to an excellent book by the philanthropist Christina Makris, it’s now easy to plot a culinary and visual feast itinerary across the globe. Travel around Britain, venture forth to Europe, then Africa, the US, SE Asia and Australia. Christina calls it Aesthetic Dining, and her book (Cultureshock Media, £28) includes not just guides to 25 restaurants with the best art collections, but also interviews with discerning patrons from Ai Weiwei to Tracey Emin. Of course, a restaurant with a fine art collection makes sense. Chefs are themselves artists, and also tend to hang out with painters and performers. When I was the Minister for the Arts, I was envious to discover that my counterpart in Indonesia had restaurants in her portfolio. One day. The art impresarios Matthew Slotover and Amanda Sharp went from founding Frieze magazine to founding a restaurant, Toklas. The artist Conrad Shawcross has suggested that if you are unsure of an artist, ask them to cook for you. The most famous art restaurant is undoubtedly the Colombe D’Or, founded by Paul Roux in St-Paul-de-Vence in southeastern France in 1920. By the 1950s it was the go-to restaurant for the bohemian set that lived in the village and nearby. Roux became close to Picasso and, as well as that great artist’s works, there are paintings by Chagall,
Bonnard and Braque, Léger and Calder. Many of the paintings were gifted, so they have a deep connection with the space within which they hang. Conversely, a restaurant designed to show off a collection is the China Club in Hong Kong. Founded by the legendary tastemaker David Tang, the collection features 500 pieces of modern and contemporary Chinese art. It was pioneering for its time, not only in using the restaurant as effectively a venue for a gallery, but also being one of the first gallery spaces for contemporary Chinese art in the territory, and indeed the world. For a weekend break here in Britain, why not try the Gunton Arms in Norfolk? Established by the art collector Ivor Braka, he is unashamedly romantic about his endeavour. A former royal hunting lodge, the pub now houses works by Tracey Emin and by Paula Rego, about which apparently some locals have complained. Brand new to the scene (and so not in Christina’s book) is Mount St Restaurant in London’s Mayfair, its walls lined with Warhols, Freuds and Matisses, plus many more. Each of these restaurants has a unique and compelling story, which is as notable as the art and the food themselves. Interestingly, not a single museum restaurant is listed. n CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Colombe D’Or; Aesthetic Dining by Christina Makris; The Gunton Arms; Mount St restaurant in Mayfair
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CULTURE | Sustainability
MY LITTLE GREEN BOOK
Lisa Grainger meets Tim Brown, whose billion-dollar business Allbirds started with a woollen shoe
Tim Brown (below) believes in open-source technology and lowering impact when creating his shoe products rather than market share
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im Brown doesn’t sound English. But then, like the shoes he makes, using wool for uppers and plants for soles, the Allbirds co-founder is a bit of a hybrid. Born in Ascot to an English father and a New Zealander mother, the entrepreneur spent his formative years in New Zealand, where he became a national footballer. Returning to England to study at the LSE, he met the man who would end up being his business partner. And along the way, he married an American, with whom he now lives in San Francisco. Every bit of that international journey, the friendly 41-year-old says in his upbeat Kiwi-American lilt, fed into his dream of creating the world’s most eco-friendly shoe. In New Zealand, he learnt from his grandmother – who knitted him sweaters – about the great strengths of wool. As an athlete, through being gifted huge quantities of synthetic sports gear, he quickly understood how much toxic waste was being produced. And with input from Joey Zwillinger, the sustainability expert who would become his business partner, he figured out how to create shoes that were not only great to wear, but less harmful to the environment. That still no one made shoes from wool puzzled Tim while he was at university. ‘Wool breathes. It’s strong. It’s luxurious. It’s washable. It wicks moisture away from the skin. And it’s non-polluting,’ he says. ‘It seemed such an obvious material.’ It
had also been used for centuries by the military, until ‘the manufacturing of cheap polyesters came along’. When Tim started off on his wool-shoe journey, everyone thought he was mad. At a course at Kellogg Business School at Northwestern University his tutor, Professor Carter, even went so far as to say ‘it was the worst idea he’d ever seen.’ Back in New Zealand, he and a friend shot a promotional film and launched it on Kickstarter. ‘And in spite of Carter’s predictions, we had enough wool for 1,000 pairs and sold them all.’ One of them was to Joey who ‘was my most difficult customer ever’, but believed in Tim’s vision. And seven years later, in 2016, they launched AllBirds together. Their first shoes, Tim admits, looked like they’d been ‘stung by a bee: ugly and swollen’. But today, their sleek, comfortable trainers and pumps are sold in 36 countries, and in 57 of their own stores. In 2018, Allbirds created a material called SweetFoam, made from sugar cane, to create their soles – and open-sourced the technology so other brands could use it. Then they figured out a way to use eucalyptus fibre for vegan, plastic-free uppers ‘that are incredibly resilient’. And in September 2021, they launched a shoe made from plant leather, fashioned from rubber, plant oils and agricultural by-products such as rice hulls and citrus peels. So far the net revenues of Allbirds has topped one billion dollars. The B Corp-certified company, which went public in 2021, sends out each pair with a Carbon Label – the first in the fashion world – which clearly lists how much carbon was created to produce it. By being so open about every aspect of their business, Tim hopes they can not only help other companies to become more eco-friendly and grow the market, but attract people back to the land: to produce wood, sugar cane and wool, and be part of a regenerative model of business. Excitingly, he says, over 500 New Zealand farmers have already signed up to the OnFarm system that helps them improve the way they farm. Other brands have certainly started to take notice of what they do. Adidas recently partnered with them, and creating a sneaker with a carbon score of 2.9 – ‘the lowest on earth, about half that of a hamburger’. And over 100 companies such as Adidas, Puma, Reebok, Asics, Ugg and Timberland have made shoes with SweetFoam. For Tim, that’s what matters. ‘Ultimately market share is not the point. It’s about lowering everyone’s impact.’ allbirds.com
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Conservation | CULTURE
The POSITIVE DISRUPTOR Can we clean up our politics to protect our shared future? asks James Wallace
THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW
Resources for a future for people and planet
PHOTOS: GETTY; UNSPLASH
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verything is political. From food, transport and health to sport, trade and wealth. Politics decides who benefits and who doesn’t. Democracy, for most, is the pinnacle of equitable politics. But are we living in a democratic state? Elections, from the US Presidency and Brexit to UK general elections and serial reappointments of our PMs, are being fought on misinformation and divisive populist agendas, with a side helping of manipulation from powerful industry lobbying and media moguls: Murdoch’s Times; Barclay’s Telegraph, Musk’s Twitter. This isn’t a ‘Guardian-reading, tofu-eating, wokerati’ conspiracy theory, it’s the geopolitical game, up for sale to the highest bidder. It’s the systemisation of greed. Like many during the Battle of Lettuce vs Liz Truss, I learned a new word: ‘Libertarian’, whose right-wing mantra is ‘I shall do what I want, so f*** you’. For the uninitiated, this extreme neoliberalism, propounded by Reagan and Thatcher, is now spouted by the benignly named European Research Group and Institute of Economic Affairs. It calls for minimum state intervention in the free market to enable perpetual growth in a finite world. It is the Wild West of politics, the badlands of industry deregulation, tax-cuts for the rich and stripping nature’s assets bare. Well, I say, ‘Frack off!’ to Grease Smogg and his effluent cronies lurking in the bowels of 55 Tufton Street, and shove a wind turbine up your toxic pipe dream. On a dying planet, this ecocidal incarnation of unchecked rampant capitalism is a twisted madness.
And bizarrely, it comes hand in glove with authoritarian fascism. You may not care for climate protestors, but one day you might like to protest inheritance tax, land reform, property rights... Under the new Public Order Bill, no one can stand up to the powers that be. Recent arrests of journalists and white-collar police brutality should scare the bejeebies out of us. But what are the consequences of this new politics? A bonfire of regulations – as proposed by the Retained EU Law Bill – puts more power in fewer hands and destroys our natural life support system. Don’t believe me? I dare you to down a glass of water from your nearest river. Our waterways are open sewers. The UK Government is breaking the law every day by failing to enforce its own laws. I don’t ‘do’ party politics, I’m neither left nor right. I’m one of the growing number of electorate who are fed up with the short-term, self-serving politics of individuals and parties desperately trying to stay in power. As we saw in Westminster last year, our political system is rotten to the core, with factions within factions fighting tooth and claw. Just when we most need convergence, we hear the death knell call of the old fossil fuel paradigm: ‘Divide and conquer’. When are we going to start working together in this existential emergency? Surely there must be a political route to a future where everyone can not just survive the rising tides and scorching droughts, but thrive? How hard is it to have a transparent system where votes count for collaborative politicians trusted to deliver mutuallybeneficial manifesto promises? If anyone promises me that, they will get my vote. n
USE YOUR VOICE Commit to vote for a healthy planet with The Commitment. thecommitment.uk REPRESENTATION COUNTS Learn about alternatives to the current voting system with the Electoral Reform Society. electoral-reform.org.uk INDIE IDEAS For a dose of independent international media and journalism try openDemocracy. opendemocracy.net FIGHT FOR NATURE Use the law to protect life on Earth with ClientEarth. clientearth.org
A DIFFERENT ROAD Investigate the impact of perpetual growth with Naomi Klein’s This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs the Climate. thischangeseverything.org
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Porsche 911 Carrera GTS Cabriolet PRICE From £118,720 ENGINE 3.0-litre 6-cylinder POWER 480hp 0-62mph 3.6 seconds ECONOMY 26mpg STREAMING Fast Car – Tracy Chapman
Road Test
The Porsche 911 Cabriolet is a brilliant sports car – so what’s missing? asks Jeremy Taylor
COUNTRY
TOWN
RATING: 4/5 WELLIES
RATING: 4/5 HANDBAGS
A while back I came into some money and bought a Porsche 911 Cabriolet. A month or so later it was sold. Somehow it lacked passion and character: it was too easy to drive fast, too benign at high speed, too soulless. That doesn’t mean the mid-range GTS model tested here is a bad car, far from it. But it just won’t touch your heart like an open-roof Aston Martin, or even a second-hand Maserati with an oil leak. If Germanic precision is your desire, then the GTS is a brilliant, turbocharged firework of a car that will sparkle every time it’s driven. Purists will prefer this more demanding rearwheel drive model but there’s also a four-wheel drive variant for extra grip. The Porsche is lightyears ahead of a Jaguar F-Type on the road, or the Aston Martin Vantage for that matter. The extra weight of the convertible roof mechanism makes no difference to performance – the GTS absolutely flies on a cross-country jaunt and you will feel like a very good driver indeed. Only the camel hump covering at the rear when the folding roof is lowered distorts the curvy lines, although that same lump has become a trademark feature of the Cabriolet in recent times. Apart from that minor distraction, the seriously quick GTS will reward drivers every time with precision handling, telepathic steering and a 480hp engine that doesn’t know when to give up.
Thankfully, the rear-engined 911 is far more practical for everyday use than it looks. While most shopping bags will likely end up on the back seat – a space otherwise only useful for small children – there’s a decent-sized, secure luggage stash under the front bonnet, too. The cabin is a lovely place to sit, for any length of time. This being a pricey Porsche with a long and illustrious heritage, every button and switch falls perfectly to hand. That includes the mesh rear wind break, which takes the internal swirl of air out of the cockpit when the hood is lowered. The system is electrically operated but at the same time renders the rear seats useless for passengers when in place. Everything inside the Porsche is fitted to the highest standards – it’s perfect. Even so, Porsche buyers inevitably end up paying considerably more for ‘must-have’ options, such as adaptive sports seats (£1,991), an upgraded BOSE sound system (£1,002) and not forgetting a carbon interior package (£2,231). A throaty growl from the twin-turbo engine adds aural drama to the mix when provoked but the GTS can also behave in a civilised manner at motorway speeds – it’s not a tiring car to drive. Roof down, the Porsche is so well engineered it’s very easy to forget the canvass hood is even folded. I want to fall in love with the 911 but I’m still struggling. It’s a thrilling car to drive, a dream machine in nearly every respect. If only Porsche could find a little soul…
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Driving | CULTURE
THE DRIVE
The Shropshire hills as viewed from the Castle Hotel
Destination: Bishop’s Castle, Shropshire
There’s often an elephant in the room at the Castle Hotel – especially if guests choose to stay in the gatehouse. Remarkable as it might seem, the former stable block was once used to house homeless circus elephants during World War II. The Georgian hotel is positioned at the very top of Bishop’s Castle, a sleepy market town near the Welsh border. Views across the Shropshire Hills from the garden are splendiferous, with walks and cycle rides from the front doorstep that help to make this a popular watering hole for holidaymakers. The Elephant Gate House is just across the car park from the main hotel but breakfast is still included. Don’t overindulge, though, because Bishop’s Castle has more than its fair share of quaint places to eat and drink, including the Three Tuns – the oldest licensed brewery in the country. Locals and visitors vie for a space by an open fire at the Castle Hotel in the winter months, then decant to the sunny garden terraces in the summer. The gatehouse is also snug and warm, with its own bijou garden to snooze off a Sunday lunch. Sadly, elephants are no longer catered for here but the hotel is very dog friendly. And if you like to pack a seriously large trunk for holidays, then let me suggest one of the best cars I know to combat a cost of living crisis and keep your mutt happy en route – the Skoda Superb estate. If space is a must then the Superb is an unbeatable package. This Czech load-lugger is value for money, reliable, safe and, for those who scoff at the idea of a Skoda badge, every inch as stylish as a Mercedes or BMW, without the inflated price tag. Ridiculously roomy, the Superb is what the capacious old Volvo estate once was to labrador owners. You can pick up a new base model for
around £30,000 – or for bargain prices secondhand. The Skoda estate is also a clever way to avoid buying a ubiquitous SUV but if four-wheel drive is a must then there’s an all-wheel drive version too, with a little extra ground clearance. Faults? There is no electric model, so buyers have to make do with hybrid, petrol or diesel for a while longer. Inside, trims are premium enough, with a choice of touchscreens and assorted features on a par with more expensive executive cars. The latest facelift includes luxury tweaks such as ambient lighting in the footwells. However, most buyers will be more interested in the whopping 660 litres of boot space – and that’s with the rear seats still in place! The Skoda may be a little bland to drive but at this money, it’s a struggle to find an SUV rival that can better the Superb – or has the room to pack an elephant-sized load of luggage to boot. BOOK IT: Doubles from £150 per night, B&B. thecastlehotelbishopscastle.co.uk Skoda Superb estate Sportline Plus TDI 150 PRICE £39,370 ENGINE 2.0-litre POWER 150hp 0-62mph 9.2 seconds ECONOMY 52.3mpg
IN THE BOOT HOT SOCKS Keep your toes toastie cycling or motorbiking to the office this winter with a pair of heated socks. Rechargeable compact batteries slip in the neck of each sock and last for up to eight hours. Therm-ic Powersocks, from £120. therm-ic.com
BEST VEST This super-compact, reversible windproof high-vis gilet is great for roadside emergencies, or trendsetter commuters on bikes and scooters. Tucano Urbano Nano Switch Vest, £45. tucanourbano.com
STREAMING Bobby Goldsboro – Me and the Elephants
GROOVY GRENADIER Not a Land Rover but the new Ineos Grenadier – the Britishbuilt 4x4 that harks back to the Defender. This scale could one day be a collector’s piece. Ineos 1:18 scale Grenadier, £150. ineosgrenadier.com n
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CULTURE | Interview
The moral of the story of author and screenwriter John Preston is that it’s never too late to carve out a stellar career, says Charlotte Metcalf
IN BRIEF COTTAGE OR PENTHOUSE?
I’d take the penthouse. DOG OR CAT?
We had to get an overbred dog that wouldn’t kill the guinea pigs, so we have a cavapoo called Jessie. COUNTRY PUB OR MICHELIN STAR?
Any pub with good pork pies, like The Three Horseshoes in Batcombe, Somerset. GARDENING OR THEATRE?
I don’t garden but I hate the theatre so much I’d learn to garden. COUNTRY CASUALS OR CITY SUIT?
If tweed is involved, it would have to be a suit.
A
PORTRAIT BY ALEXANDRA DAO
s a late bloomer, John Preston has been worth the wait. Now in his sixties, he’s one of Britain’s most sought-after writers with huge literary and television hits to his name, like the recent threepart series, Stonehouse, starring Matthew Macfadyen as the disgraced MP who faked his death by drowning, and Macfadyen’s real-life wife, Keeley Hawes, playing John Stonehouse’s wife. John rocketed into the spotlight in 2016 with A Very English Scandal, adapted for television by Russell T Davies, starring Hugh Grant as Jeremy Thorpe and Ben Whishaw as his ill-fated lover. ‘Real life seldom serves up those stories that are a perfect balance of tragedy and farce,’ says John. ‘People assume farce and humour aren’t bedfellows but humour deepens the poignancy.’ John’s signature villains are those with whom we can sympathise and chuckle at, despite their catastrophic actions. ‘John Stonehouse was more of a chump than a shit, but it was indefensible to let his wife and children think he was dead for five weeks. I had to lean over backwards to see him in a sympathetic light, but Matthew Macfadyen brought so many layers to him, like a palimpsest.’ A big year for John was 2021: The Dig hit Netflix and his book Fall, a biography of Robert Maxwell, won the Costa Award for best biography. It was a far cry from his upbringing as an only child in a Hampshire village. He had a ‘brief and inglorious’ career at Marlborough, then left Nottingham University after a year, when his father died at 55 of arterial sclerosis, leaving his mother virtually penniless. She eventually happily remarried a retired Royal Marine but it was tough few years for John. He drifted from job to job in theatre and film. ‘With just two crappy A-levels, journalism or burglary seemed the only professions open, so I ended up taking a job at Londoner’s Diary on the Evening Standard. I hated it. I was too tongue-tied to swan up to D-list celebrities at parties and probe them about their private lives.’ Instead, he started writing articles and was soon interviewing actors and directors for The Times. He became an Arts Editor – at Time Out, the Daily News and later the Sunday Telegraph. John knew he always wanted to write books and in 1991 wrote a travel book about the Mountains of the Moon in Uganda. Three novels followed. ‘The first two were well reviewed but had zero sales. The third one was a stinker
but I’d signed a two-book deal and was desperately looking around for an idea when an 84-year-old woman wrote to me claiming to be my cousin. ‘She was responding to a review I’d written about a documentary on Lawrence of Arabia because my aunt had lived with Lawrence’s sole surviving brother. So I visited my cousin and she said, “I’m sure you know your aunt found the first gold at Sutton Hoo?” I didn’t! My father had never liked his sister. I’d always wanted to do a buried treasure story for grown-ups and I loved the idea that just before our own civilisation was on the brink of collapse and war in 1939, an ancient one was being dug up in Suffolk. I had my next novel.’ After The Dig was published, John was restless. He wanted to write more: ‘I was in my mid-40s. Fifty was looming and I thought if I don’t jump now I never will. I went freelance. I tried writing another novel that didn’t work. I was remarried with two kids [now 16 and 15] and we used to go on holiday to Cornwall with two couples, including Michael and Sarah Gove. I’d always found Thorpe to be a fascinating character and asked Michael if he thought there was room for another book about him. “Yes,” he said immediately. When I asked what was wrong with the other three books, he said they “had too many tangents”. That really resonated, so I pared the story right back and set to work.’ Success followed, culminating in 2021 with the film of The Dig, starring Ralph Fiennes, Carey Mulligan and Lily James as John’s aunt, and of course, Fall. ‘Maxwell was a deeply unattractive bully but he lost almost his entire family in Auschwitz, so it’s not surprising he wanted to take revenge on the world,’ John says. ‘His achievements were prodigious but at the end he was all alone, walled up in his apartment, watching fi lms and leaving shitty towels around for his staff to pick up. It was a pathetic disintegration of a human.’ Partly what makes John such a readable writer is his capacity for sympathy and an ability to pinpoint what makes even a grotesque villain human. Would he write a book about Harvey Weinstein? ‘No,’ he says, ‘I have to find some quality to empathise with. I do fear my rich seam of 1970s reprobates might have dried up.’ So, what next? ‘I can’t talk about it, but the book will be out in the autumn.’ It’s a tantalising note on which to end our conversation, but what is certain is it will be worth the wait. n
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Writer John Preston started his career as an arts journalist, before moving into novels and biographies
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Gentleman
JACK Typecast Jack O’Connell at your peril. He may have risen through the acting ranks playing angry, damaged young men, but he is destined to be one of the greats, says BENJI WILSON FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER RACHELL SMITH
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Shirt Saint Laurent @ MATCHESFASHION Trousers Studio Nicholson. Watch IWC Schaffhausen
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I’ve ever spent.’ There can’t be that many other film stars who spend their time pootling about in a campervan, but then Jack O’Connell is not like other film stars. His upbringing in Derbyshire is well documented, to the point where he doesn’t want to go over the troubles at school and the run-ins with police again. But they’re all a part of him and his hometown evidently still means a lot: when he talks about how he came to be cast in Netflix’s recent Lady Chatterley’s Lover alongside Emma Corrin, for example, he still sees the world from a local boy’s perspective. ‘I was in Morocco, we were just finishing Rogue Heroes, it had been exhausting and then the last thing I wanted to do after that job was another job. But then it [Lady Chatterley] came in, I read the script and I discovered that DH Lawrence was based down the road from me [the author grew up ten miles from Derby]. So this was an opportunity to do some local literature on a pretty big stage.’ After Lady Chatterley he went on to film Ferrari, a biopic of Enzo Ferrari with Adam Driver in the title role. With Heat’s director Michael Mann at the helm, lots of fast cars and two of Hollywood’s brightest driving them, Ferrari has the makings of an instant boys’-own blockbuster. Jack plays the English racing driver Peter Collins, who raced for Scuderia Ferrari in the mid-Fifties. ‘We shot the whole thing in Modena which is where the Ferrari garage has always been based,’ he says. ‘I was behind the wheel for most of the time and the cars we used, we had to destroy. Because they were replicas of classic cars that go for millions and Ferrari can’t afford to have replicas in circulation. So by the time we finished with them they had to be scrapped.’ Trashing Ferraris made sense in script terms – Peter Collins was killed in a crash in the 1958 German Grand Prix. It’s not as if Jack hasn’t appeared in major Hollywood features before – he starred in Angelina Jolie’s directorial debut Unbroken in 2014 and he’s been recognised as a powerhouse performer ever since he was spotted by Shane Meadows and cast in 2006’s This is England. That led to a defining role as the tearaway Cook in Channel 4’s classic Skins and then leading film roles in 2013’s Starred Up and the superb Northern Ireland army drama ’71 the next year. He is, and always has been, a one-off talent. But working with Hollywood royalty like Michael Mann still felt like another step up. ‘The imposter syndrome thing is chilling out a little bit these days,’ he says, before adding, ‘but yeah, I always do still shit a brick when I first step on set. And that’s magnified when there are big names Jumper Brunello Cucinelli. Watch IWC Schaffhausen
n the last few years, Jack O’Connell has found himself frozen stiff inside the Arctic Circle, surfing the sand dunes of the Moroccan Sahara and, most recently, careering around the Ferrari autodrome in Modena, Italy. He’s spent time falling off boats (for the BBC’s The North Water), jumping out of planes (for SAS: Rogue Heroes) and crashing cars (for Michael Mann’s forthcoming film Ferrari). So you can see why, on the rare occasion he makes it home to the UK, he likes to take things down a notch. ‘I’ve got a nice little motorhome that I zip about in,’ he says, speaking from his house in north London. ‘I bought it because I like to go to Glastonbury and I was doing a few music festivals at the time. It just sort of appeared to be one of the best ways to do it.’ From musical beginnings the O’Connell festival bus has become something of a holiday staple. ‘I’ve managed to get a good bit of mileage on the clock. I’ve done a bit of Ireland, France; I’ve got down to Spain – it’s just a real nice way to go on holiday. No airport stress and you feel like you’re a bit more in charge. There are other stresses, don’t get me wrong – like emptying the shit tanks. But it’s good. It’s the best money 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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Jacket FRAME. Denim jacket Alexander McQueen @ MATCHESFASHION. Top Tom Ford @ Mr Porter. Trousers Studio Nicholson
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Jumper Sunspel Jeans FRAME
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Jacket and jeans Louis Vuitton. Vest Tom Ford @ MATCHESFASHION Necklace Jack’s own
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Jacket Dolce & Gabbana Jeans FRAME. Jumper John Smedley. Shoes Manolo Blahnik
and people you’ve grown up watching on screen, and then suddenly you’re being asked to work with them.’ The challenge for Jack is that some of his early work was so striking that he is repeatedly offered more of the same – angry, damaged young men pushed to boiling point and beyond. That’s one reason why his role in The North Water, as a bookish 19th century army surgeon stuck on a ship crewed by thugs, was such a revelation. ‘There’s a question mark over the kind of roles I get offered compared to the kind of roles that I have to chase. Fortunately, Andrew Haigh [director] wanted to cast me as Patrick Sumner. Another director would probably see it another way. That’s where I have to count my lucky chickens – it offered me an opportunity to do something very different. And that’s always the goal.’ These days Jack lives between north London and the West Country, far from where he grew up in Derbyshire. ‘I’m definitely at home down here. The life that this work has offered me is beyond anything I could have expected as a kid and I just feel hugely grateful. Particularly in the last few years I’ve been able to lay down a few roots, and that’s definitely helped in downtime from work. Because otherwise, you do just feel like
‘The IMPOSTER syndrome thing is chilling out a little bit these days but I always do still SHIT A BRICK when I first step on set. And that’s magnified when there are BIG NAMES and people you’ve grown up watching on screen, and then suddenly you’re being asked to WORK WITH THEM’ you live a gypsy lifestyle. I mean it’s great to follow the work but it’s nice to settle.’ Settling for Jack means trips to the local fishmonger, staying fit (‘but not gym. I can’t get with that sort of thing’) and random doses of culture depending on how the mood takes him. ‘I saw Only Fools and Horses at the theatre last night. It was good, class. And then that stemmed into a bit of The Young Ones on the telly, which I was too young to fully appreciate at the time, so I imagine watching all of that’s going to become a bit of a rabbit hole. And Withnail and I is on my list too – it’s been a while since I’ve seen that one.’ His nan still lives in Derby, however, ‘and there’s Derby County [football club], too, they’re not going anywhere,’ so Jack won’t forget his roots. He talks most fondly about his time at Nottingham-based drama school The Television Workshop, where alongside alumni Vicky McClure and Aisling Loftus (and a few years before, Samantha Morton), a whole generation of instinctive performers has been schooled. Jack notes that when he enrolled it was free. Cuts in arts funding mean that now it isn’t. ‘I don’t want to get into politics but it starts from a government level, and I grew up under Labour. The sad fact is that back then they had the funding, which meant that kids from anywhere could be there. You didn’t have to pay, you got in there on your own merit. I certainly haven’t seen any progression in that particular area, of making arts accessible within communities.’ This means the next Jack O’Connell might end up doing what the current one nearly did – ‘I went to army cadets as a kid, and it was basically if nothing happens with the football then it’s army. But then acting happened and it was like - well, if nothing happens with acting, then it’s army...’. The acting happened, and the army’s loss is our gain: Jack O’Connell marches on. Lady Chatterley’s Lover is available on Netflix, SAS Rogue Heroes is on BBC iPlayer and Ferrari is coming soon n
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T-shirt Mr Porter Jacket Paul Smith TEAM Grooming: Lesley Vye using Charlotte Tilbury and Bumble and Bumble Photographer’s assistants: Kate Whelan and Cam Smith Fashion assistants: April McCarthy and Alice Hare Shot on location at Arbor in Bankside Yards STOCKISTS: PAGE 70
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ON LOCATION
Contemporary development Bankside Yards hosts handsome star of Lady Chatterley’s Lover, Jack O’Connell, for C&TH’s cover shoot
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PHOTOS: BANKSIDE YARDS NATIVE LAND
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ast and present collide at Bankside Yards, the exciting new development on the site of a shortlived Victorian train station on London’s South Bank. Its first building to be completed, Arbor, made the perfect location for capturing our cover star, Jack O’Connell, star of Netflix’s new adaption of Lady Chatterley’s Lover – an erotic tale that explores the themes of transformation, and transition from pre- to post-war Britain. Bankside Yards is London’s latest major regeneration project – a £2.5bn mixed-use development that creates a cultural stretch connecting the South Bank and Bankside for the first time in 150 years. Centred around the 14 historic railway arches that made up Blackfriars Railway Station, this previously derelict area is set to receive new life. The riverside neighbourhood will play host to new residents and 50,000 sq/ft of amenities, including cultural spaces, independent shops, restaurants, a dedicated LGBTQ+ space, and even a five-star hotel for urban escapes. This responsible development, a venture from Native Land (the brains behind super-refined Holland Park Villas and Burlington Gate), has also made a financial commitment to provide over £65 million to Southwark Council, helping it deliver affordable new housing across the borough. Plus, it marks the first ever major mixed-use development in the UK to be completely net zero carbon in operation. All buildings, including the apartments, at Bankside Yards will be fossil fuel free, served by a low-temperature, all-electric fifth-generation energy network never before seen on this scale in the UK.
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THE FRONTLINE OF FEMINISM
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A protester seen standing in front of the Mahsa Amini’s painting during a demonstration in Turkey
PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK
KAMIN MOHAMMADI looks at the long fight for equality by Iran’s women and places the current protests in the 100-year-long struggle for Iranian sovereignty and democracy, revealing how Iranian women’s struggle touches us all January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 81
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Protests have spread across Iran and around the world
state that her body showed signs of being beaten. Protests broke out in Mahsa’s homeland of Iranian Kurdistan and, in spite of a brutal crackdown by the authorities, they soon spread throughout Iran. The Kurdish freedom cry of ‘Woman Life Freedom’, the dominant chant to what has become the biggest protests that Iran has seen since the revolution of 1979, has been recorded in 350 locations. And all over the world, people are coming together in support of the brave protesters of Iran – millions of people have now marched in solidarity across the world in weekly demonstrations that gather hundreds of thousands of people together. What started as a protest against the mandatory hejab soon became a demand for freedom. While the brutal treatment of Mahsa Jhina Amini was the spark that lit this conflagration of rage, the real heat comes from decades of oppression of any viable opposition to the hardline clerical regime, a free-falling economy and mass corruption. Plus, the
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he picture was ordinary enough: a woman with her long hair loose holding a sign written in Kurdish – ‘Woman Life Freedom’, the resonant chant of the protests that have shaken Iran in the past three months. This image appeared on Iranian film star Taraneh Alidoosti’s Instagram feed in December, an innocuous enough picture but the actor is Iranian and, in the Islamic Republic of Iran where mandatory hejab is compulsory, for her to post a picture of herself without it, with her hair loose and visibly supporting the protests, was enough to land her in jail – she was released three weeks later on 4 January. Taraneh, an award-winning actor who was seen earlier this year at Cannes promoting Saeed Roustayi’s film Leila’s Brothers, which won the FIPRESCI Prize at the festival, is one of Iran’s best-known stars. She also co-starred in Asghar Farhadi’s Oscar-winning 2016 drama The Salesman and has been seen on Western red carpets more than once. Yet her fame offered no protection in the face of the Islamic Republic’s brutal repression of the current protests. Even the regime itself admits that more than 300 people have died, including many children, although human rights groups estimate this figure as being much higher. Eighteen thousand people are under arrest, closed trials are taking place and execution orders are being handed out to protestors, activists, rappers and students. Well-known figures from Iran’s arts and entertainment currently in detention include filmmakers Jafar Panahi, Mohammad Rasoulof and Mostafa Al-Ahmad, rapper Toomaj Salehi, and Kurdish rapper Saman Yasin, who faces the death penalty. The protests erupted after the death of Mahsa Jhina Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian Kurd, who was taken into custody on 13 September because of ‘bad hejab’. She was visiting relatives in Tehran when the Morality Police had challenged her about hair showing from her standard hejab of headscarf and long loose coat. She was in custody for two hours before being taken to hospital, where she lay in a coma. She died on 16 September. The authorities claimed that she had a heart attack from a pre-existing condition. Her family deny this, and
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Taraneh Alidoosti on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival; she was released from jail earlier in January
hypocrisy of the ruling elite, who refuse to engage with Iranians’ simplest demands even as their own children post pictures of the parties they hold in mansions in LA bought with the pilfered resources of our country. The demonstrations are not a call for the end of Islam: they are a call for the end of the symbols of state power and abuse, a call that even devout Iranians have joined. Religious women in hejab are in the protests alongside the girls who have so courageously whipped off their headscarves to face the regime’s forces with their hair flowing. The women of Iran have been demanding freedom ever since Ayatollah Khomeini took power in 1979 – the first demonstration against mandatory hejab was three weeks after Khomeini’s arrival. Before the revolution Iranian women had some of the most liberal laws in the Middle East, and they had been voting since 1963. Significant uprisings in Iran led by women have taken place since the Iranian Revolution. From 2009 onwards, men have joined women in these protests, often adopting hejab themselves to express their equality with women. But these demonstrations feel different to those that have come before in significant ways. In spite of a brutal crackdown that has seen live and rubber bullets being shot into protesters, mass rounding up of university students, dystopian scenes of school children being beaten by security forces in their own schools, a mass attack on Kurdistan with drones and shelling directly onto people’s houses, and a massacre in another ethnic minority province of Sistan and Baluchistan, the people of Iran are not giving up. There are increasing instances of quiet civil disobedience – women going about their daily lives without the
mandatory hejab is becoming more common throughout Iran. And in spite of two executions that have now been carried out, and many more protesters awaiting their trials, the courage and bravery of ordinary people in Iran – both men and women – continues to drive this movement forward and keep the protests alive. National strikes are now sweeping regularly across the country, too, a sign that the uprising is changing gear but with no intention to stop. The day after Taraneh’s arrest, a group of Iranian filmmakers, actors and writers gathered outside the notorious Evin prison to protest her arrest. They continued the protest daily until she was released. Outside Iran, social media activists brought attention to her arrest through social media posts using her hashtag – as in the past, a detainee’s fame has served to protect their life. Whatever happens now to Taraneh, and the many thousands who are still being held in custody, tortured, raped and brutalised, the protests show that something important has changed in Iran, and whatever violent repression is used to send people back home from the street protests, Iran and its people will never be the same again. What is happening in Iran is the forefront of feminism: young women taking back the right to their space, to their bodily autonomy, even at the cost of their lives. And, given the assault on women’s rights we are seeing globally from the US to India, this is a struggle that touches us all. Kamin Mohammadi is author of The Cypress Tree: A Love Letter To Iran, published by Bloomsbury. kamin.co.uk; @kaminmohammadi n January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 83
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Return of the
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’SHROOM The healing powers of fungi are well documented. SOPHIE BENGE tries out a wellness retreat where truffles are on the menu, plus the treatments you should try if you’re not ready for the whole trip
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TRIPPING WITH TRUFFLES
Sophie Benge heads to the Netherlands to experience the trip of her life and is so blown away that she wants to eulogise the benefits of controlled psychedelics to anyone willing to listen
of being reborn. As 1950s psychologist Humphry Osmond wrote: ‘to fathom hell or soar angelic, just take a pinch of psychedelic’. However, in the late Sixties the psychedelic train hit the buffers with the cross-over into hippy culture. Harvard professor Timothy Leary’s infamous LSD-fuelled ‘Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out’ counterculture contributed to its prohibition by press and politics as they attempted to quash anti-government sentiment at the time of the Vietnam War. In 1968, the US federal government criminalised the possession of psychedelics. Thence, the movement has been operating under the radar of inaccurate perceptions until the so-called ‘psychedelic renaissance’ of the last few years, in which one English countess is at the vanguard. For six decades, Amanda Feilding, Countess of Wemyss, has worked tirelessly to put her own drug-induced changes of consciousness through a rigorous scientific lens. ‘My mission,’ she tells me, ‘has been to show how these compounds positively impact connectivity in the brain and how they can help us become a happier, healthier species.’ Now, aged 80, she is rightly having her time in the sun: fêted in the press as the ‘Acid Queen’ and awarded for her contribution toward transforming society. Her journey into psychedelics started as a child after some mystical encounters with fairies among the hedges of her home, Beckley Park in Oxfordshire. It continued during her LSD-fuelled youth to eventually inspire her life’s work: the formation of her Beckley Foundation. For 25 years she’s been collaborating with leading neuroscientists on university research programmes (more than 60) that are now proving a role for psychedelics – LSD, MDMA, 5DMT, ayahuasca and ibogaine – to treat such diverse conditions as PTSD, depression, Alzheimer’s, even nicotine addiction. Now the mission in the psychedelics world is ‘medicalise to legalise’.
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ast year was the year in which the conversation about psychedelics changed. Features in all the broadsheets about the impressive and groundbreaking results on the use of psilocybin (the active ingredient in magic mushrooms) to treat depression – and other conditions, such as PTSD, anxiety and anorexia – proliferated. Along with this revival of mainstream medical interest came a new breed of travel experience, too – the psychedelic retreat, a trip to remember in all senses of the word. Having been a wellness practitioner for the past two decades, this new frontier of ‘wellness tourism’ (overseen by qualified experts, which goes without saying) seems to me to tick the science-meets-spirituality credentials we now seek in our eternal quest for health and happiness. So even before I experienced Beckley Retreats, in a 11-week programme that included a four-day residential in the Netherlands, and was led, by the mushrooms, through the kaleidoscope of my subconscious, I was sold by the concept of psychedelic therapy. Of course, the mind-altering effects, which have given psychedelics such a bad rap since the Sixties (until now), are exactly why indigenous peoples have been weaving the ceremonial use of actives from cacti, mushrooms and Amazonian vine into their way of life for centuries. They’re respected tools that help them see life situations from a fresh perspective. In 20th-century Europe and America, the surge in ‘psychopharmacology’ took these plant compounds into a lab setting to test their chemical effects on the brain’s plasticity. Intellectuals, like Aldous Huxley and Sigmund Freud, were experimenting with LSD (synthesised fungus) and mescaline (cactus) and reporting their existential experiences on the drugs, which morphed into feelings
PHOTOS: RAWPIXEL.COM; GETTY IMAGES
Up to 20 guests are welcome at the Netherlands Beckley Retreats programme
Outside of mental health, there are manifold benefits too, as many of us ‘healthy normals’ are starting to realise how our rigid thinking and recurring life blocks really need a shake-up. My ambition was to break my scarcity mindset around money. I liked the idea of busting my financial block without effort – thinking my way out of this conundrum had not been yielding results. So I signed up to Beckley Retreats (it does not have an official tie with Amanda’s foundation but is loosely affiliated). This programme was founded in 2021 by Afghanistan combat veteran Neil Markey, who only really healed his post-war trauma with psilocybin experiences. While the ‘tripping with truffles’ happens for about 10 hours over two ceremonies, during the four-day retreat, the experience starts well before and continues for six weeks afterwards in the form of short daily practices and weekly group calls. It is this deep preparation and integration that stands Beckley Retreats head and shoulders above many psychedelic companies when it comes to pastoral care of guests – something to research when choosing a retreat. On gentle instruction, I was encouraged to forgo alcohol and coffee, to journal, to set my intentions, remain celibate and up my walks in nature, for four weeks prior to landing in Amsterdam and making my way to New Eden, a woodland location around 90 miles away. There are a maximum of 20 guests per retreat. ‘Sometimes people have challenging experiences but the net effect is positive with the safe container we create,’ explains Neil, whose retreat team of six love us and judge-us-not as the hallucinogens unleash hardcore reactions in some. They hug, hold and bless us with indescribably beautiful music to take us through
the ripples and waves. As for me, the fungi carried me fast, as if on a flying carpet, through a vortex of colour, shape and visions of my daughter. I’ve berated myself for not always being present as a mother when she was small, while chasing unsatisfactory relationships to plug the gap of a failed marriage. But a smiling Daisy (now 23) poured in to remind me of bike rides, picnics and make-believe games we shared in her young years. My ancestors also appeared with gratitude for the healing process I did for them some years ago. In a five-hour flow of tears, pangs of nausea, incessant yawning and conscious deep breathing to keep steady on the ‘carpet’, I found insight, cathartic release and validation of the work I’ve done on myself over the years. I’m sure my long wellness experience helped me surrender to the higher power of the fungi, rather than let my rational brain fight to make sense of them. The journeys for some among our high-achieving group, including a Bombay business owner, war veteran, NGO boss, chef, photographer and gallerist, were less benign, spiked with archetypal tricksters, such as wolves, rats and demons. Yet, by the time we left the safe haven of morning yoga and meditation, of trance-state breath work (that can fiddle with consciousness), songs around the fire, art therapy and the human bonding that comes from being vulnerable, we all concluded the same thing: that the metaphorical, well furrowed, sled grooves on our mental hillsides had dissipated under a fresh fall of snow. We saw the world with the wonder of our childhood eyes. The big question is, as the book title goes: After the Ecstasy, the Laundry (Jack Kornfield). In other words, the key to long-term neuroplasticity is the integration work post-trip. This is not a weekend break, nor a magic bullet. In the burst of psychedelic retreats, Beckley is particularly strong on its ‘Rewiring Programme’, crafted by Lucyne Jade, a psychotherapist who’s led over a thousand psychedelic ceremonies. She’s a pearl and shares practices to embed the change in our neural pathways, committing us to ongoing inner work to manifest our dreams. It’s the gentle accountability we need to keep the post-retreat diamonds from turning into pebbles as normal life takes hold again. Six weeks on, I reflect on my intention around money. Things have shifted and I’m financially fluid. Thank you, fungi, I’m forever in awe of you, the mycelium networks and, quite literally, the brains beneath our feet. BOOK IT: Beckley Retreats in the
Amanda Feilding, aka the ‘Acid Queen’
Netherlands now run for five nights, costing from €5,500 (shared room) with a maximum of 20 participants. The price includes vegetarian meals. beckleyretreats.com
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IT’S COOL TO BE WOO If you don’t want to go as far as a mushroom retreat, try these practitioners to reboot you physically – and spiritually, says Caroline Phillips
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pirituality and formerly arcane practices have gone mainstream, with CEOs, lawyers and HNWs seeking help from tarot readers to people ‘in spirit’ to make those big decisions. Yes, hedgies to bankers – and at least one newspaper proprietor – have become ‘seekers’. The pandemic and financial crisis were the catalyst, but colour healing, bodywork and crystals – once the domain of hippies and New Agers – are now sought by masters of the universe types wanting self-knowledge and clarity on their personal lives, careers and next steps. Here are the therapists, gurus and guides helping these folk release their trauma, access a greater wisdom, and transform themselves. Their mantra is that you can’t change our turbulent world, but you can become the change you want to see.
ANABEL CUTLER
Anabel offers a truly transformational combo of facial and foot reflexology, reiki and crystal healing. Working from a swanky Portland Hospital clinic, she specialises in fertility, pregnancy and postpartum, often treating couples through maternity. Clients glow about getting pregnant or kickstarting lactation after sessions — but men and older women also bag her for health boosts and insomnia/anxiety/ stress busters in her North London consulting room. An intuitive, she’ll read your energy, lift your spirits with essential oils, massage facial pressure points with a natural jade roller and Gua Sha stones, then press on your feet to resolve underlying body imbalances. You’ll leave calm and energised. From £95, reflexologyforlife.space
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The Trauma Specialist SHERYL CLOSE
Sheryl Close is one of the country’s leading trauma specialists. Everyone, from CEOs to bankers and therapists, beats a path to her light and bright Harley Street eyrie. She works wonders with psychotherapy and bodywork (done either by the client focusing on the body part, with mindful intention, or through physical touch). Whether she’s using SE, SRR or TEB (respectively Somatic Experiencing , Somatic Resilience and Regulation, and Transforming the Experience-Based Brain) she’ll be regulating your nervous system, working on your adrenals and brain stem, and reducing your cortisol and adrenaline levels. It’s life changing. £150, sherylclose.co.uk
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The Colour Therapist MARK WENTWORTH
Everyone’s born with a life purpose. Using your date of birth and name, Mark Wentworth reveals your inherent nature through your colour ‘DNA’, then guides you – using your specific ‘inner palette’ – to live your unique life. He may use colour healing – perhaps liberating you from unhealthy family patterns – help you with decorating choices, or use visualisation and depth psychology. He works with creative agencies seeking new visions through to international companies wanting to improve team dynamics. (If you’re yellow, you’ll like strategies but may clash with someone who’s red and into immediate action.) Unsurprisingly, he boasts Zoom clients in every time zone. £135, colourforlife.com
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; RAWPIXEL.COM
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The Reflexologist
Unlock emotional blockages with treatments that help you spiritually as well as physically
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The Tarot Reader ANNABELLE MITZMAN
Attend a group tarot-readingcum-class in her gracious St John’s Wood home – amid eclectic art – and you’ll find lawyers, architects and squillionaires as your fellow clients. You’ll get wine, nibbles and wisdom from Annabelle, an effervescent and eternally optimistic woman with a photographic memory for clients’ cards – even ones picked by folk when she started 40 years ago. Expect (Stanford-educated) Annabelle to interpret swords, cups and high priestesses with uncanny detail and accuracy, and to empower you to make decisions for positive change. Book a private reading if groups aren’t your thing. Group sessions, £20. +44 (0)7974 787217; mail@annabelletarot.com
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The Medium PENNY FRANCIS
Psychic and international medium Penny doesn’t have a crystal ball, practise the dark arts or look like a witch. Instead, this elegant Lincolnshire woman may be running a workshop, doing spiritual assessments for business leaders or holding demonstrations of mediumship across Europe. She contacts people ‘in spirit’ and reports back with other-worldly accuracy – maybe capturing the words, smell and essence of a beloved friend or granny who’s passed. Perhaps giving you information about your childhood experiences. And always offering healing and new options – although she’s not into prophesies. Afterwards you’ll feel empowered. Think beacon of light. From £40, pennyfrancismedium.com
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; RAWPIXEL.COM
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The Astrologer LYN BIRKBECK
Lyn offers an astrological consultation that’s unlike any newspaper’s. This astrologer of 40 years’ standing plots your chart – the symbolic map of your potential that’s depicted in the sky at your birth – then helps you decipher the planets’ sign and house positions, identifying the truth of your being more than predicting what’ll happen to you. You’ll explore your issues – past, present and future – and connect to your inner guru and possibly past lives too. He sends you a free written year guide afterwards. Author of nine books, he’s well spoken and wears a baseball cap – and he may just penetrate your psyche. Full consultation, £125. lynbirkbeck.com n
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Suspend Belief Deirdre Dyson’s Hover carpet playfully suspends geometric shapes against its background through use of illuminated areas of silk. Each rug is made to measure and handwoven by Nepalese craftspeople. From £960 per sq/m. deirdredyson.com
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INTERIORS | News WEAR IT, FRAME IT Egyptian geese proclaim their presence on Sabina Savage’s Heralds of Horus design. Hand drawn on printed silk - a work of art. Twill scarf, 135cmx135cm, £350. sabinasavage.com
ASTRAL BEAUTY
Juno eight-light pendant in antique brass and amber glass, £1,266. davidhuntlighting.co.uk
ODE TO THE LANDSCAPE Francis Sultana’s Chatterley furniture collection celebrates the natural world. Henry banquette in patinated textured bronze, £16,500 plus VAT. davidgillgallery.com
All the latest news from the interiors world. By Carole Annett
WINK WINK Luxe bathroom brand Balineum and playful interior designer Jean-Philippe have teamed up on this new ‘Fearless Eyes’ tile collection. £13.60 each, balineum.co.uk
THE DREAM
Family-run wardrobe designers Neatsmith has added a champagne-colour frame to its contemporary Reflex glass wardrobe system. Natural Reflex glass with Champagne frame, from £2,200 p/m excluding LED lights, from £2,300 including LEDs. neatsmith.co.uk
PHOTOS: ROBERT FAIRER
SHOW ME LOVE
For yourself or someone special this Valentine’s Day. Amethyst heart, from £920. kimberlymcdonald.com
Design NOTES
FLOOR SHOW Ruggable approached interior designer and fashion icon Iris Apfel for its latest washable rug collection comprising 15 rug and five doormat designs. From £89. ruggable.co.uk
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ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Pop Art hot pink cushion, £144. christopherfarrcloth.com
CHEZ NINA
Nina Campbell at Osborne & Little Poiteau wallpaper £85 p/roll, Dumas (on chair) £95 p/m, Bulet (cushion) £55 p/m, trimmed with Trianon bauble, £46 p/m. osborneandlittle.com
ASSORTED SWEETS Star, diamond and oval brass backplates, from £12. Knobs from £20. matilda goad.com
TERRA FIRMA More earthy colour and texture from Bernie de le Cuona, the queen of luxurious, natural fabric. Merino velvet, pumpkin, £342 p/m and Seed Linens, Chia and Peppercorn, £162 p/m. delecuona.com
PHOTOS: ROBERT FAIRER
REVOLUTIONARY DESIGN REVISITED The Groovy chair gets a Conran Shop makeover in association with Paulin, Paulin, Paulin, a family business preserving and developing the works of the legendary Pierre Paulin. £4,350, conranshop.co.uk January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 93
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INTERIORS | Focus
Pillow Talk Let’s take these to the bedroom
Araminta Campbell Woodland Inkcap throw, £680. aramintacampbell.co.uk
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WHERE DREAMS ARE MADE Beautiful bedroom ideas for creating a heavenly haven
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Coze Kobe luxury merino cashmere cardigan robe, from £110. cozelinen.com
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The White Company Lavender pillow mist, from £12. thewhite company.com
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Lars Nilsson x HÄSTENS Edwin Iris quilt cover, £675. hastens.com
1 Feeling blue – a Spanish project by Hampshire-based interior designer Charlotte Stuart mixing pattern and stripe. charlottestuartinteriors.co.uk 2 Seasonal Woods silk wall covering looks stunning both day and night. It has a lead time of ten weeks and can be custom-sized through Cole and Son’s bespoke service. £POA. cole-and-son.com 3 A study of elegance at Hotel Endsleigh, once the Duke of Bedford’s hunting and fishing lodge and now one of Olga Polizzi’s own hotel collection. Sitting by the River Tamar in Devon, this room features original hand-painted Chinoiserie wallpaper and a mix of old and new furniture. thepolizzicollection.com 4 Textile designer Wendy Morrison’s bedroom features her new rug design One Hundred Birds One Hundred Flowers celebrating the art of storytelling in rug making with whimsical and colourful motifs inspired by nature. Designed by Wendy and hand-knotted in wool and silk by artisans in Nepal, from £10,000. wendymorrisondesign.com
Simba Mattress topper, from £229. simbasleep.com
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Trend | INTERIORS
The ECO ENTHUSIAST Harriet Pringle shares her conscious picks for a snug and sustainable bedroom
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BED THREADS 100 percent French flax king-size duvet set, luxuriously soft and generously sized to just graze the floor. King, £330. uk.bedthreads.com
s the dark winter months bring with them an urge to hibernate under the covers, creating a sleep sanctuary that is both relaxing and eco-friendly is essential – and it’s no surprise it all starts with your bed. Invest in the best quality bed linen you can afford – soft, simple to wash and ideally made from renewable, organic fibres such as hemp and wool. Natural flax linen not only offers a healthy night’s sleep by regulating body temperature and protecting against allergens, it’s also a worthy long-term investment, improving the more it’s used and washed. Cosy up on chilly nights with vintage throws and handmade cushions and add a touch of glamour with an antique bedside lamp and pleated lampshade. Look out for second-hand oak or walnut side tables as they are much better quality than MDF or laminated chipboard often used to make new furniture. Breathe new life into pre-loved bedside tables using natural chalk paints or waxes and they should last for years to come. Last but not least, for a hint of warmth and a subtle glow choose a good quality, small batch-made natural candle to fill the room with PALEFIRE STUDIO soothing scents to relax the body and Parasol Table Lamp, calm the mind. n from £475.
FUNGUS AND MOLD Hand printed cushion, £63. fungusandmold.com
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FLOKS These duvets are crafted from British wool and with the entire manufacturing process completed within a 20-mile radius, carbon emissions are kept as low as possible. King size, £345. floks.co.uk
NARCHIE A beautiful vintage quilted super king bedspread with scalloped edges, £225. narchie.com
WINGS OF WISDOM ‘A watchful eye’ perfumed candle, £80. wow-uk.com
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INTERIORS | Case Study
The tiny yet perfectly formed May Morris suite
‘Whoever said that MODERN design needed to be UNCOMFORTABLE must have been SOME sort of evangelical PRESBYTERIAN’
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CHANGING ( HOTEL ) ROOMS Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen’s maximalist touch breathes life into The Dial House in the Cotswolds, says Tessa Dunthorne
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Maximalist designer Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen
f you ask interiors TV star Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen what he thinks the Cotswolds needs, it would not surprise you to hear his answer: more colour and – certainly – more pattern. The Dial House, the Bourton-on-the-Water hotel recently acquired by Maxi and Pimol Srivikorn, was his opportunity to remedy this. ‘I’m bored with the Cotswold cliché – you know, the same shades of grey estate furniture and, basically, discomfort,’ Laurence explains. ‘Whoever said that modern design needed to be uncomfortable must have been some sort of evangelical Presbyterian.’ The characterful hotel dates back to 1698. Styled in the ‘Cotswold Vernacular’, its deep set stone walls host many cosy nooks and crannies, as well as inviting fireplaces. But before its purchase in 2020, it fell prey to being pedestrian in its design – something Laurence definitely isn't. The designer is renowned for his love of maximalism (his book, More More More was published by DK towards the end of 2022), and owners Maxi and Pimol were happy to indulge his love of the kaleidoscopic. In particular, Maxi encouraged it – the owner trained in gemology and creates high-fashion jewellery for clients across the globe. The pair were a design match made in heaven. Their plan was to completely revamp the rooms – reupholstering furniture (with items like sofas and armchairs provided by the Srivikorns) and replastering walls for new wallpapers. This called for original designs from Laurence. ‘I started off with old-fashioned ink drawings for the new patterns and motifs, and then we brought it to life on the computer,’ says Laurence. The next step was figuring out how to work with the spaces – some tiny, like the May Morris room – without overwhelming them. ‘You can’t make a small space bigger through design, but you can make it more interesting,’ Laurence purports. ‘The May Morris room became a jewelbox in the detail… It went from the room they’d struggled to invite people into, to the most popular room.’ The designer leant into its intimate dimensions, rather than employing visual tricks to ‘conjure’ space. Warm textured wallpaper adorns the walls making the room enticing, and with a soft, velvet orange armchair, there’s a sense of cosiness. The doors to the guest wardrobe and bathroom are hidden in floral wallpaper, deliberately compartmentalising the space. Laurence does not think that ‘maximalism’ is a passing trend. In fact, he believes this redesign pays homage to the history of The Dial House. ‘Maximalism isn’t a modern trend that’s sprung up overnight. When The Dial House was built centuries ago, the builders would have been appalled with the space being left in such dull colours,’ he says, ‘and they would have loved the kind of pattern and detail and richness I put in.’ And, even if the builders of old aren’t here to approve, the guests certainly do. A true feast for the eyes. dialhousehotel.com n January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 97
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Dreamy destinations and BUCKET LIST trips for your next big ADVENTURE
Bikini top, Orfila Bee. Earrings, Annoushka. Fan Dior
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THE GREAT ESCAPE 19/01/2023 18:14
Scott Dunn’s New Japan Itineraries
T H E E S C A PI S T
After two difficult years, Japan has finally reopened and Scott Dunn is all prepped for the occasion. The blue-chip tour operator recently unfurled a series of itineraries, each geared to a specific immersive experience. Foodies, for instance, sweep through Tokyo’s buzzing gastroscene and onwards to the food havens of Kyoto and Osaka. The ‘Exceptional Japan’ itinerary tracks the ancient postal route once taken by samurai between Tokyo and Kyoto, through crazy-gorgeous forests, villages and lakes. Adrenaline junkies, meanwhile, will be thrilled at a tour that takes in mountain biking, a ninja temple and samurai museum, and the anime capital Akihabara. From £9,700pp, scottdunn.com
Lauren Ho has all the latest travel news
Slow Travelling With Oliver’s Travels
In the world according to holiday rental company Oliver’s Travels, ‘slow’ means a concern for the environmental impact of our holidays alongside a deeper engagement with the local community. Its new ‘Slow Travel’ packages wrap up not just sustainable accommodation for its portfolio of villas, castles and ski chalets, but also bicycles and trains as the preferred mode of transport, electric cars and fridges stocked with fair trade, organic and locally sourced produce. Concierges hook guests up with local cultural events and restaurants. From £1,000pp for seven nights, oliverstravels.com
Deciding which Rocky Mountain resort to hit this ski season just got a little bit harder as luxury rental group onefinestay adds three new snowy addresses in the Rockies – spotlight, please, on Steamboat (left), Breckenridge, and Vail & Beaver Creek – to its already muscular list in Aspen, Jackson Hole and Park City. Each of the chalets (there are, for now, two in each new destination) features between five and eight bedrooms that pair bracing alpine air and blazing fireplaces with onefinestay’s concierges who will sort everything from restaurant bookings and hikes to retail outings for that perfect après-ski outfit. From £606 per night (Steamboat Glacier Lodge), onefinestay.com
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Onefinestay Introduces Three Rocky Mountain Luxury Chalets
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
NEW OPENINGS
CAP KOROSO Sumba’s (literal) moment in the sun continues with the February debut of Cap Koroso. Less than an hour’s flight from Bali, it blends local craft traditions and culture with an open-air cinema, yoga and music events. From £245 per night, capkaroso.com
Off The Map Travel’s New Hotel Rooms Are Frozen Into An Icelandic Lagoon
In winter, two nine sq/m hotel rooms in the middle of the Fjallsárlón glacial lagoon on Iceland’s south coast literally freeze over to create millennial igloos kitted out with central heating, a double bed, bathroom and, if you need to ask, wifi. From this cosy vantage point with almost zero light pollution, settle in for a front row seat of the northern lights and a breathtaking view of the arctic night sky and Vatnajökull glacier. By day, the majestically isolated Diamond Beach – named for its jet black sand and sparkling ice shards – is nearby. Feel free to break into a lusty rendition of Let It Go. £2,499pp for two, half board, exc. flights, offthemap.travel
THE NED DOHA London’s The Ned has landed in Doha in a grand 1960s pile, where the duo of David Chipperfield Architects and Soho House Design have created a 102-room hotel and members’ club with seven restaurants. From approx. £225, thened.com/doha
ONE&ONLY AESTHESIS The One&Only is prepping for the debut of its first Greek resort in Glyfada, a 30-minute drive from downtown Athens where a stretch of private Aegean seafront and a Chenot Spa vie for attention. From £472, oneandonlyresorts.com
Explora Journeys Debuts ‘Ocean Wellness’ Programme
It seems only natural that if you’re sailing the high seas, a total immersive experience would also demand a marine-based wellness programme. Cruise line Explora Journeys says the inspiration of ‘Ocean Wellness’ – now available on board Explora I – is based on the calming and revitalising effect of the ocean on one’s body and immunity. To that end, the spa includes a hydrotherapy pool, alongside spa and beauty products containing botanical and marine extracts. The gym features a 250m running track around the ship, while sleep yoga and nutrition-based menus are designed to promote a sense of renewal and relaxation during the voyage. From €691pp per night, explora.com
RAFFLES LONDON This winter Raffles arrives in London, injecting a jolt of glamour and lux from its new residence in the listed Old War Office. The 120 rooms are flanked by a staggering 11 restaurants and bars, plus a rooftop view clear across Whitehall. From £1,100, raffles.com
CAMP SOSSUS Ultimate Safaris’ latest property Camp Sossus takes full advantage of its location in the Namibian desert and climate for year-round safaris. Six eco-chic tents are perfect springboards to view incredible wildlife. From £212.40pp per night, ultimatesafaris.na
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The Datai Langkawi Launches All-Natural, Organic, Plant-Based Spa Lines
The Datai Langkawi is something of an open secret, loved as much for its modern tropical architecture as for its verdant setting of mangroves and rainforests on one side and the Andaman Sea on the other. This trio of natural polestars is now captured in the resort’s new plant-based products called Akar, the Malay word for ‘roots’. The three product ranges - The Rainforest, The Mangrove, The Sea - mine the restorative, anti-ageing, healing benefits of local flowering plants, grains and oceanic micronutrients, created alongside Irish seaweed-based beauty brand, Voya. thedatai.com
Ovolo Hotels Commit To Sustainability Ethos And Goals
‘Do Good. Feel Good’ is the touchstone for Ovolo Hotels’ freshly crafted sustainability commitment. To that end, the group is rolling out a suite of inspirational and aspirational sustainability initiatives. Alongside a sustainability report, the remit extends to sourcing sustainable goods and services, serving vegetarian cuisine in all its restaurants, adopting ethical business practices, mandating green building certifications for all new Ovolo-owned properties, as well as reducing energy and water use. To be sure, these are ambitious goals, not least its new ‘Green Perk’ – a partnership with Eden Reforestation Projects to plant a tree for every direct guest booking. ovolohotels.com
On The Move With Moliving’s Mobile Eco-Suites
Moliving is determined to shed the idea that hotel rooms need to be fixed permanently in place, let alone be part of a massive, energyconsuming superstructure. Instead, each of its sleek, fully-equipped and sustainably-powered suites are designed to be built relatively inexpensively and installed quickly and, if needed, moved with, according to Moliving, virtually zero environmental impact. Power for this novel nomadic hospitality solution comes from solar energy harvested from rooftop panels. Greywater is recycled, sanitisation uses UV and all electronics are completely integrated and controlled by a tablet. Upstate New York venture Hurley House is opening in 2023 and is to be the first hotel made up of these eco-suites. From $259 per night, hurleyhouseny.com; moliving.com
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
NEW OPENINGS
HOTELITO BY MUSA Hotelito by MUSA in Mexico has 13 rooms alongside a freshwater bio pool, a saltwater lagoon, organic farms and, for digital nomads, fully wired workspaces and a recording studio. From $500, findmusa.mx/hotelito
Red Savannah Unveils Six Private Villas In Corfu
Modern tourism may have changed the face of Corfu since the halcyon days when the Durrells first fell in love with the Greek isle in the 1930s, but that only makes its still extant magic – those glorious Mediterranean summers of long sun-lit days – all the more potent. Exhibit A are the six new four- to eight-room private villas recently unveiled by luxury travel company Red Savannah. Scattered along Corfu’s indelible coastline and bays, and framed by cypresses and olive trees and ancient villages, each villa tempts with broad terraces, pools, dreamy bedrooms and views for days. The Durrells would have approved. From £4,800, redsavannah.com
SIX SENSES VANA Set in the Himalayan foothills, Six Senses Vana is a sublime retreat where the order of the day is a healing mix of Ayurveda, Tibetan medicine, yoga and a delicious organic, locally sourced menu. From $570, sixsenses.com
CHATEAU ROYALE Berlin’s cool-quota is topped up with the opening of the 93-room Château Royal – a remarkable fusing of two 19th and 20th century manses, just steps from the Brandenburg Gate. From €225 per night, chateauroyalberlin.com
THE CHEDI EL GOUNA Perched on the shores of the Red Sea, The Chedi’s new outpost is a sleek yet tranquil oasis. The MO here is wellness, Asian-style, alongside snorkelling and fishing, off-road desert safaris and horseback riding. From £300 per night, chedielgouna.com
Sail Away With Four Seasons Yachts
The idea of a floating hotel is fast shedding its metaphorical cloak to reveal literal hardware that’s all prepped for maritime voyages. Joining the fray at the end of 2025 is Four Seasons whose first vessel is currently taking shape at shipbuilder maestros Fincantieri in its Trieste HQ. Topping 270 metres in length, 27 metres in width, with 14 decks holding 95 suites of between 581 and 818 sq/ft, expect to board a veritable pleasure dome. For that touch of ne plus ultra extravagance, the Funnel Suite clocks in at 9,601 sq/ft and includes a private wading pool. fourseasons.com
THE GREAT ARCH AT FONTHILL Built in 1755, the Victory Arch at the entrance of Wiltshire’s Fonthill Estate has been charmingly reimagined as a country lodge dressed in vintage furniture, period textiles and stunning views. From £295 B&B per night, beckfordarms.com
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Travel that takes you further 020 3130 6908 I ScottDunn.com
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JOURNE Y TO THE END OF THE WORLD
Lauren Ho embarks on a frozen adventure through Patagonia and onwards to Antarctica
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e’ve all seen pictures of Antarctica, but nothing quite prepared me for the emotion that first morning I threw open my curtains to candyfloss pink skies and the sight of giant icebergs silently floating past my cabin window. I’d woken on the fourth day of a 17-night journey aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a 123-cabin ice breaking ship that cruises the frozen seas of the polar regions. It is the vessel’s final Antarctic voyage of the season, which started in Punta Arenas, a city near the tip of Chile’s southernmost Patagonia region. A destination that pairs perfectly with a voyage to Antarctica, I flew into Santiago a week earlier with the aim of making my way down to Punta Arenas via the jagged peaks, bright blue icebergs that cleave from soaring glaciers, and turquoise lakes of Torres del Paine National Park. One of the 11 protected areas of the Magallanes Region and Chilean Antarctica, which together comprise about 51 percent of the area’s land, the park – the largest at around 700 sq/m – is the most visited, not least for its iconic hiking trails alongside the three distinctive snow-capped jagged peaks of the Paine Massif. At the heart of the park is Explora Lodge. Anchored like a ship on the edge of lake Pehoé, the 49-room hotel slots right into its location, hugging the lake’s placid shoreline with striking vistas of both the rapidly flowing Salto Chico waterfall and the muscular granite features of the snowdusted Paine Massif. Inside, the design is an understated mix of quiet neutral tones that don’t detract from the views, while creating a calm and tranquil space to retreat to after a day exploring the park’s trails. There is a bijou spa with outdoor Jacuzzis and direct access to the lake’s waters, while the restaurant serves a daily changing menu based on local ingredients such as guanaco an animal native to South America, closely related to the llama. But, as one of only a handful of hotels located within the park, it’s all about easy
access to the region’s iconic trails. The night before, each guest meets with the guiding team to personalise their next day’s activities, which are advised based on fitness levels and the weather, which is notoriously changeable. And so, after a couple of days hiking various trails, I ended my trip with the must-do Mirador Las Torres. An intense one-day 11-mile uphill hike, it leads to the iconic viewpoint of the base of the three jagged granite towers, which loom over a dazzling turquoise glacial pool. Taking up to ten hours, the trail follows a narrow cliff along the Ascencio River, which cuts through the region’s dramatic tableau of soaring mountains, before making a steep climb over a rubble of glacial deposited boulders through howling wind, snow, rain and hail that eventually rewards you with the first view of the towers. From there, I headed just outside of the park to Tierra Patagonia and, like Explora Lodge, the hotel also serves as a base to explore the region’s trails through pretty much the same activities. Ensconced on the shores of Lake Sarmiento, the lodge is all about panoramic views of the rugged Paine mountains, which are framed by floor-toceiling windows. Inspired by an ancient fossil of a prehistoric animal the low-lying lenga wood structure melds seamlessly into the landscape, sweeping organically through the wind-whipped scrubby vegetation. Inside, it’s all about the public spaces, the main area anchored by a central fireplace and a bar, which is dressed with leather sofas and cosy armchairs angled towards the view. Following activities like horseback riding through the golden pampas, dinner is served in the intimate dining area, after which you can retreat to your room, where some have baths that look out onto the views. After a couple of days of hiking, eating and enjoying the hotel’s spa, I made my way down to Punta Arenas, where I boarded Le Commandant Charcot. The plan was to sail through the Strait of Magellan before crossing the wildly notorious Drake Passage
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
You’ll never get tired of the views at Explora Lodge in Patagonia
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
FROM ABOVE: Exploring on horseback from Tierra Patagonia; Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot, its first polar explorer vessel
of lectures and activities such as wine tasting – as we sail past frolicking whales and mesmerising icebergs – or with an itinerary of morning and afternoon landings, the ship’s Zodiacs ferrying us ashore for nature walks surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery scattered with thousands of fur seals and penguins. On our final afternoon, under a dome of blue sky smudged with thick clumps of cumulus cloud, we landed by Zodiac on the gravelly shores of St Andrew’s Bay, which indents the north coast of South Georgia. Against a backdrop of snow-dusted mountains and striking blue-white glaciers, we walked along the pebbly beach, past giant blubbery elephant seals, towards the far end of the bay. Here, led by the pungent aroma of guano and a cacophony of calls that grew louder with each step, we made our way to the top of a hill, where we were greeted by a chaotic sweep of 150,000 pairs of king penguins, one of the largest colonies in the world. And, as the setting sun tinted the clouds a vivid orange, I sipped on a glass of champagne in the Observatory Bar, endlessly grateful that a place like this exists and I got to experience it. n
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BOOK IT Patagonia Lauren was a guest of Explora Lodge and Tierra Patagonia. For more information about Patagonia, visit antilophia.com Antarctica Ponant’s Antarctica sailings on Le Commandant Charcot run until March 2023 and from November 2023. Prices start from £19,990pp based on two sharing a Prestige Stateroom Deck 6 for a 17-night cruise, including a one-way flight from Santiago to Ushuaia, transfers and one-night in a five-star hotel in Santiago prior to the cruise. 0808 23 43 802; ponant.com
PHOTOS: © IAN DAWSON
to the the tip of the North Antarctic Peninsula and explore the Weddell Sea before heading onwards towards South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. With just 13 vessels, Ponant is the small cruise operator with a big reputation, best known for its intimate ships, bar-setting design, superb dining and intrepid itineraries with an incredible depth of experiences. Now, for its first polar explorer, the brand has taken things to the next level. From being powered by natural gas – the greenest fuel on the market – to a host of state-of-the-art environmental technologies, including software that determines the most ice-friendly and fuelefficient routes, Le Commandant Charcot is setting the bar for sustainable ship building. She is also a beauty to look at. Unlike the angular, utilitarian shapes of the vessels that usually ply the polar seas, the ship is noticeably slick and contemporary, her responsive, gently faceted superstructure leading to elegant interiors. The staterooms, for example, are polished boltholes with curvilinear walls and concealed lighting that create a soft glow over tactile materials from Kvadrat bed throws to leather finishes in dark grey and oatmeal tones. There is a gym and a sprawling wellness area with an indoor pool, a juice bar and a snow room, and the dining room leads to an outdoor deck that features hot and cold lagoon pools arranged around a large fire pit. There is a fine dining restaurant from celebrated chef Alain Ducasse, the main lounge is a cosy after-dinner nightcap kind of space, while the top deck Observatory Bar is an airy, light-filled room with custom-made furnishings arranged in intimate seating groups. This all comes together as the perfect base for days that unfold either at sea with a programme
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PARADISE FOUND Looking for ideas for your big 2023 escape? Look no further than One&Only Reethi Rah
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estled in the Maldives’ North Male atoll is One&Only Reethi Rah, an exclusive resort with a name that translates as ‘beautiful island’. Living up to this moniker with its 12 white sandy beaches, pristine coastline and lush greenery, the hotel presents the perfect escape for wellness seekers and families.
BE MY ONE&ONLY
From arrival, expect your every need to be taken care of. Holidays at One&Only are tailormade by Destinology, leading provider of luxury holidays and experts in creating true concierge experiences – so all details are looked after for you. Once you’ve completed the 45 minute luxury boat transfer from Male airport, you’ll be greeted with a cocktail in a spectacular welcome reception hosted by the resort’s staff. From there, you can stroll to your private guest villa, which are all beautifully appointed and provide perfect privacy. Twenty-four hour butler service means you’ll never want for anything. Then take a seat on your private deck and lap up the enticing vistas of the Indian Ocean. Eat al fresco here in the morning, or explore any one of the seven restaurants and bars offering a mountain of choice for foodies.
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PR O M OT I O N
MIND, BODY, SOUL
One&Only’s award-winning holistic spa is set in 13,000 sq/ft of expansive gardens, overlooking a tranquil lagoon. Enjoy a massage and treatment using ESPA products, featuring only pure extracts of natural ingredients. The experienced spa therapists draw from ancient therapeutic rituals and modern-day research to provide treatments that are unique to the resort. For example, the Watsu pool at One&Only is the first of its kind in the Maldives. If your idea of the perfect holiday is active as opposed to restful, you’re well provided for at One&Only Reethi Rah. Club One is the hub for activity at the resort; from a rock-climbing wall, tennis courts, a water sports centre and new padel court, you are given room to keep up your training regime, or to try your hand at a new sport or skill. The water sports options are particularly adventurous; wakeboarding, jet-skiing and stand-up paddle boarding are just the start.
FOR THE LITTLE ONES
The resort serves families well, meaning you can spend time together that they’ll never forget. Create memories for life exploring the underwater wonders of the Indian Ocean with diving and snorkelling excursions for all levels. Or take advantage of the resort’s brilliant children’s programme if you need an escape. Younger guests are provided for via the KidsOnly and One Tribe clubs, and the schedule of activities will occupy anyone between the ages of four and 17, whether it’s a pirate cruise day, an island treasure hunt, or yoga for teens. BOOK IT: Ten nights from £12,758pp inc. breakfast, business class flights, transfers and hold luggage. destinology.co.uk Destinology provides a unique blend of firsthand destination expertise, services, and superb relationships with carefully selected travel partners. Expect the ultimate tailor-made holiday. With Destinology, you receive a true concierge experience, ensuring every detail – the ones that really matter to you – are taken care of personally, passionately and to the highest standard. For holidays at One&Only or other destinations across the world, the team now on +44 (0)1204 208 913.
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On the ROCKS Effortless essentials for your next trip abroad FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER CHLOE MALLETT
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Bikini, Orfila Bee Earrings, Annoushka Fan, Dior
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Dress, Anna October Arm cuffs, Sam Ubhi
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Top, Anna October. Bikini bottoms, Orfila Bee Earrings, Pippa Small
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Bikini, Same Los Angeles. Necklace, Pippa Small Bag, Sam Ubhi Headscarf, stylist’s own
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Dress, Dior. Earrings, Annoushka. Bikini, Melissa Odabash
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Bikini, Evarae Shirt, Asceno. Bracelets (from top), Annoushka, Sam Ubhi, Pippa Small Earrings, Annoushka TEAM Hair & make-up: Ruth Warrior @ Ray Brown using Sisley Paris skincare and MAC Pro make-up; @ruthwarriormakeup Model: Asia Piwka @ Titanium Management; @asiapiwka STOCKISTS: PAGE 146
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S E A- G R E E N FE V ER
Amelia Windsor sets off on a sustainable sojourn to the Scarlet Hotel in Cornwall – the perfect place for a spoiling winter reset
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opened the curtains with slight trepidation after a first night of howling wind and rain. To my joy and surprise I was met by blue skies and bright sunshine beaming down onto Mawgan Porth Bay lying resplendent beneath the adults-only Scarlet Hotel, my retreat for a couple of spoiling wintry days. My friend and I had travelled in style to Cornwall in a Polestar, a marque I’m positive will become more and more common on our roads as we accelerate the transition to EVs. We were relieved to find a selection of charging points on our route and at lovely spots too, such as the Strawberry Fields farm shop and in the pretty village of Ilminster. The car itself – a Polestar 2 – was exquisitely smooth to drive along the winding Cornish roads, and I appreciated the extra leg room to sit back and relax while my friend took the wheel (I’m still an aspiring driver). For over ten years now, the Scarlet Hotel has put the environment at the heart of all it does. When dismantling the old property before opening in 2009, lizards were found in the rock walls and were all rehomed, and the old hotel beds were donated to a charity for the homeless. Today, the roof is lined with a
native plant called sea thrift that is home to many local insects and keeps the property cooler in the warmer months. There’s also no need for air-conditioning given the free and powerful sea breeze on offer. Solar panels cover the car park and grey water, captured from the famous Cornish downpours, flushes the loos. In the garden rooms, where I stayed, there are repurposed wooden coastal erosion posts from the bay that frame the mini terraces that look out to the sea – they provide the most spectacular views to be enjoyed from your bed or while brushing your teeth. The South West Coast Path runs right in front of the hotel and while feasting on a leisurely breakfast of Full Cornish or locally foraged mushrooms on toast, you might find your feet itching to take you to admire the awesome views across the bays and out to sea. Be sure to pack good walking shoes. Once on your way, just follow the path, wherever it takes you. You might find yourself stopping often to take in the theatrical crashing of the waves against the cliffs and the sea birds keening over head. There are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the way, but don’t miss The Beach Hut in Watergate Bay if you are heading to the left
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THE GREAT ESCAPE of the hotel, for some warming, hearty fodder and a chance to gawp at the surfers taking on the waves. After lunch, you might want to walk further to Roo’s Beach in Porth, a boutique filled with topnotch brands like Ganni and Gramicci. You can then grab a beer to enjoy on the beach opposite while watching the sun go down. A short drive away from the hotel in the nifty Polestar leads us to Harlyn Bay, where the unpredictable weather led to the best rainbow I have ever seen. It is also a perfect beach to take a stroll along or to just sit and take in the spectacular surroundings. Then it was back to the Scarlet for a complimentary loose leaf tea or fresh coffee – much better than single-use teabags (most contain plastic) or ubiquitous plastic coffee pods. After all that fresh air, a session in the Scarlet Spa completed a dreamy afternoon: the pool looks out onto the bay and is heated by an impressive solar system. If you are brave, there is a natural outdoor pool that is filtered only by reeds and algae, allowing you to have that wild swimming feel, but with a quick enough dash inside to warm up in the cedar wood sauna. There are many Ayurvedic treatments on offer, and a hammam experience for two that involves exfoliating your entire body with a mud scrub before entering your own private steam room to cleanse and detoxify the body from top to toe. I was also thrilled to be able to sample the new menu, following the arrival of new head chef, Jack Clayton. It features locally caught fish, such as hake and John Dory, gently cooked with delicate sauces and foraged sea vegetables. The menu changes daily, depending on the season. You can pair each dish with a Cornish natural wine; the team will be pleased to recommend which, but I loved the Knightor Chardonnay. Finish
your meal with one of many beautifully presented puds like the clementine sponge cake. Clayton is aiming for a Michelin Green Star and he fully deserves it. If you’re looking to mix things up a bit, definitely try the Herring restaurant at its sister hotel, the Amelia (pictured above and left) Bedruthan Hotel & Spa, a hop, enjoys a super sustainable Cornish skip and a jump away from the break at The Scarlet Hotel, travelling there in the all-electric Polestar 2 Scarlet and just as delicious – further celebrating all that the region has to offer. It was hard to leave the hotel the next day, especially after an early yoga class and a final swim in the pool, watching the morning light brighten the bay with each length I took. The hotel team made sure to remind us to charge up the Polestar with the free charging points in the car park before we made our way back to the big smoke, feeling recharged, full of Cornish sea air and food, as well as plenty of amazing views and memories stored carefully in our minds to take home with us. BOOK IT: Amelia travelled to the Scarlet Hotel in a Polestar 2 (polestar.com). Double room rates at the Scarlet Hotel start from £225 B&B (scarlethotel.co.uk). Double room rates at Bedruthan Hotel & Spa, from £145 B&B (bedruthan.com) n January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 121
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THE CALL OF THE MOUNTAINS Discover the best of the Italian Dolomites with a luxury ski holiday at the Grand Hotel Savoia Cortina
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he allure of pristine white pistes and cosy fireside après-ski never fades. If you’re looking for somewhere new to try, the glamorous Grand Hotel Savoia Cortina, part of the Radisson Collection, is the perfect place to stay after a day swooshing down the slopes of the Italian Dolomites. And whether you’re planning an adventurepacked, adrenalin-fuelled trip, or you would rather opt for a romantic snowy getaway, you can trust that the hotel will make your holiday one to remember.
HALLOWED HALLS
The hotel is perfectly placed for a luxurious ski escape with a 360 degree take on hospitality
WORK UP AN APPETITE
Try the hotel’s elegant Ristorante Savoy for a delicious immersion in the local cuisine, expertly crafted by Executive Chef Luigi Sarsano. His refined menu focuses on the fusion of Mediterranean culinary traditions and colourful regional. Meanwhile, the renowned 1224 Bar Lounge & Terrace is a favourite of the après-ski set. Refuel in front of the fire with a delicious afternoon tea, or lounge with your favourite cocktail after dinner while soaking in its live music, which ranges from jazz and piano performances to livelier DJ sets. Top off your evening with a nightcap in the new Cigar Club, where a fine rum, cognac or bourbon can be enjoyed alongside an excellent full-bodied cigar. Finally, if there’s a big game you don’t want to miss, the hotel’s sports bar is well equipped with large flat screens and a friendly atmosphere. For casual bites and family dinners, there’s also Pizza Palace just next door – pizzas can even be ordered to your room.
PHOTOS: © GUISEPPE GHEDINA FOTOGRAFO
Enjoying an impressive snowfall that covers 90 percent of its slopes and stretches in its ski season from November through to April each year, Cortina d’Ampezzo is a picturesque resort to have on your radar. The Grand Hotel, nestled in the valley of Ampezzo, is located just moments away from its postcard-pretty town centre, with exceptional views of the Dolomites. After a transfer from Venice airport, step into the Belle Époque lobby and be whisked back to the hotel’s illustrious past. The Grand Hotel Savoia is steeped in history and is one of the oldest hotels in Italy, spanning a rich 111 years. Walk the same halls as Sophia Loren, Leo Tolstoy, and Winston Churchill, and enjoy a peaceful night in the fabulous rooms and suites. From there, you can drink in the beautiful views of the snowy peaks, a handsome natural landscape that’s reflected within the interiors. Warm parquet floors, earthy tones and luxurious furnishings decorate these spaces, and offer a relaxing place to unwind after a exhausting day on the slopes. Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway as a couple, are on a solo adventure, or you’re taking the little ones on their first nursery slopes, the Grand Hotel’s luxurious rooms are accommodating for all. What’s more, if you’re visiting as a family, make sure to carve out a moment for yourself and send the kids to play in the Rupi Clubhouse, the Grand Hotel Savoia’s children’s club. Watching smaller holidayers between the ages of three to 12, the skilled in-house team lead a range of creative and educational activities, from making mosaics to creating sustainable sculptures from recycling.
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PR O M OT I O N
FURRY FRIENDS WELCOME
If you’re also planning on bringing your beloved pooch, the Grand Hotel Savoia caters to all fourlegged visitors. The welcoming staff are clued up on everything from the best dog walking route to directions to the local vet, so expect your pet to be in for the most pampering holiday of their lives. Plus, they won’t be lonely during their stay – the hotel’s own Bitton Shih Tzu, Dado, is waiting to make friends. The spa will ease any aches and pains after hitting up the slopes
FRESH TRACKS
The hotel’s expert staff are on hand with detailed advice, maps and local contacts, so you can make the most of the mountains during your stay. The Dolomites are perfect for skiers of all levels, and a paradise for those seeking to extend and challenge themselves. Preview the slopes that will play host to the Winter Olympics 2026 – and many more thrilling Winter Sport Championships. But the Grand Hotel Savoia’s snowy offering does not end with skiing. You can also try your hand at winter polo or saddle up for a romantic horse-drawn sleigh ride. Or perhaps a snowmobile safari tour to soak up the dramatic mountain landscapes of the Ampezzo Valley is more your speed.
PHOTOS: © GUISEPPE GHEDINA FOTOGRAFO
RESTORATIVE RITUALS
SWITCH UP YOUR STAY
The Grand Hotel Savoia’s sister hotel is the Savoia Palace, located just minutes away in Cortina’s centre, and offering luxury apartments to rent for families and groups. Think: a home away from home, with chalet-style interiors and total privacy for your stay. The apartments can accommodate up to six guests, and offer unforgettable mountain views from their own wooden balconies.
Eat ‘en plein air’ with the Terrace Grill
Treat sore muscles after a day on the slopes in The Savoia Spa, one of the best in the region. Choose from its menu of Comfort Zone treatments, including both sports and restorative massages, and facials using the most luxurious products that are designed to restore and reinvigorate. Expect a multi-sensory oasis in the spa itself, which will help you relax, refocus your energy and unwind any worries. BOOK IT: +39 0436 3201; grandhotelsavoiacortina.it @grandhotelsavoiacortina
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Mr & Mrs Smith makes discovering boutique hideaways like Elmley Nature Reserve a breeze
T R AV E L TR AILBL A ZERS
Olivia Emily meets the innovators and adventurers who have transformed how we travel for good
BOUTIQUE
James & Tamara Lohan, Mr & Mrs Smith
What’s your proudest moment? This year we became a B Corp, and
that’s resulted in so many positive changes in the business. What’s the future of travel? People are investing more in their travel and experiences, looking for extraordinary, thoughtful and highquality stays: big bucket-list trips, safaris, and long haul. Where’s your favourite place to travel? Costa Rica is an incredible destination for eco-adventurers, as much of the land is preserved and protected. I love the low-key, slower way of living there – it’s still an off-the-beaten-track destination and not the obvious choice. How can we become better travellers? Be purposeful and pay attention to the preservation of natural and cultural heritage that a lot of destinations and hoteliers are focusing on. Engage with and be curious about their work in the community and environment.
PHOTOS: © MICHAELA WATKINSON; UNSPLASH
Mr & Mrs Smith, founded by James and Tamara Lohan in the early noughties, started with a desire to find hidden hotel treasures in a sea of stuffy sameness. With a sell-out guidebook to a booking website, it grew quickly from James and Tamara to a colossal cohort of tastemaker secret shoppers (including Dolly Alderton and Grace Dent) – the current popularity of the boutique hotel is rooted right here. mrandmrssmith.com
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
ENVIRONMENT
Alexa & Onno Poortier, It Must Be NOW
Alexa and Onno Poortier launched It Must Be NOW on Earth Day (22 April) in 2017, a project urging the travel industry to take a lead role responding to the pressing global climate emergency. Today, the NOW Force for Good Alliance is a consortium of companies committed to advancing sustainability, accountability and transparency. The NOW Climate Positive Programme and Award offers hotels and resorts access to a sustainability programme for up to ten years. itmustbenow.com What’s your proudest moment? Each time a hotel joins the NOW Force for
Good Alliance and takes responsibility for their impacts on people and the planet. What’s the future of travel? The good news is that we have the solutions today to reach climate positive (better than net zero), and science has determined that global temperatures will stabilise when we achieve net zero. But unless serious action is taken now, global climate change will increase travel’s impacts on the natural environment. Where’s your favourite place to travel? Destinations where we can experience the wilderness and the rarest of luxury – to step back in time to a simpler and more authentic world. How can we become better travellers? Choose truly sustainable travel that minimises negative impacts and leaves a destination better than we find it.
Bespoke Hotels puts accessibility first
DIVERSITY
Simon Mayle, PROUD Experiences
Far too often, the micro personalisation of luxury hotels is not filtered down to LGBTQ+ couples, from assumed gender to assumed relationship status. ‘It’s so important,’ says founder Simon Mayle, ‘when you’re putting your precious money, time and emotion into travel experiences.’ In response, PROUD Experiences is an annual conference running since 2008 dedicated to making travel more accessible and welcoming to all. proudexperiences.com
ACCESSIBILITY
PHOTOS: © MICHAELA WATKINSON; UNSPLASH
Robin Sheppard, Bespoke Hotels
Following his Guillain-Barré diagnosis and seven months in intensive care in 2004, Robin Sheppard’s Brooklyn hotels in Manchester and Leicester – under the Bespoke umbrella – have been designed from the ground up to be accessible to all, including hidden disabilities and staff facilities. In fact, the accessible rooms are the best in the hotel, to which lucky guests are upgraded, offering sensory and cognitive adjustments for all abilities. bespokehotels.com What’s your proudest moment? The birth of my two sons, staying alive following
the onset of GBS, and winning the latest of far too many lifetime achievement awards. What’s the future of travel? It will continue to grow as a core life expectation, but the way in which we arrive must be adjusted to reflect the need to protect the planet – otherwise there will be nothing left to travel to. Where is your favourite place to travel? Istanbul. It’s such a heady cocktail of east and west with a sense of excitement and abandon all wrapped into one. How can we become better travellers? Be kinder to the people facilitating your journey: the person at check-in, the toilet attendant, baggage handler or taxi driver.
What’s your proudest moment? I have many, many
things, but I think changing trips and changing the way people think so that it impacts the children of LGBTQ families is so special. What is the future for travel? Diversity and sustainability are super important, but also employing the next generation of travellers and having a hotel that really reflects the community that it belongs to and that it lives in. Where’s your favourite place to travel? Brazil: incredible, diverse nature, amazing beaches, amazing weather, but also just the joy of Brazilian people. I always say joie de vivre doesn’t belong to the French, it belongs to the Brazilians. How can we all become better travellers? First and foremost, I encourage people to get out of resorts and go and discover what the local community is doing. And Pack for a Purpose [an organisation that links travellers with on-the-ground community initiatives to provide supplies and support, packforapurpose.org] n January/February 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 125
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PR O M OT I O N
THE SOCIAL NETWORK The Lansdowne Club is the ideal place to mingle, network and socialise
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he Lansdowne Club, located in the heart of Mayfair, is a unique private members’ club with elegant interiors and Neoclassical architecture. The Club has played host to a variety of high-profile guests over the years, including foreign dignitaries, British royalty, celebrities, and diplomats. Its Art Deco dining room is the perfect place to meet and relax over dinner and drinks, with a menu of traditional British dishes created by head chef Henry Brosi and his team. The Club also offers a range of sports and wellbeing activities, including swimming, Pilates, boxing, yoga, spinning, and circuit training, as well as an awardwinning salon with skilled stylists who can provide haircuts, hair treatments, manicures, pedicures, facials, and upper body massages. Its premium facilities include its beautiful Art Deco swimming pool, squash courts, exercise studio, and even a fencing salle. In addition to this, The Club houses Physio Remedies, a team of specialists who offer physiotherapy, osteopathy, and massage therapy to help clients achieve optimal health and wellbeing. Or, if you’re training for a big event or want to go the extra mile with your fitness, expert personal trainers are on hand for bespoke training sessions and advice.
The Club offers its members a packed calendar of events
As well as these state-of-the-art amenities, The Lansdowne Club hosts various social events throughout the year, including networking breakfasts and events such as the Spring Dance, Summer Party, and Winter Ball. These are an opportunity for members to mingle, network, and socialise, and provide a perfect excuse to get dressed up. The Club’s events are carefully planned with enjoyment in mind, and they are open to all members to enjoy.
The Lansdowne Club’s beautiful Art Deco swimming pool
Interested in joining The Lansdowne Club’s welcoming community? Visit lansdowneclub.com to find out how.
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
O N T R ACK TO CO U R CH E V EL With a whoosh and a wow, you can now catch the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express to Courchevel, marvels Luke Abrahams
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
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here’s an extra whiff of glamour in the thick Parisian air. It’s just after 5pm and the sun sets like a luminous halo over an extra moody Eiffel Tower as I scramble to find my cufflinks in the ultra-swish Bulgari Hotel. High modern Italianate chic oozes through every nook and cranny of the palace (think sexy portraiture, scalloped couches and total marble maximalism), and then there is me: the old-school 30-something in a classic Ralph Lauren suit feeling somewhat out of place waiting for my driver. My destination? Gare de l’Est to hop on the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express to Courchevel. It’s the first time its swish tracks have scurried down to the alpine fortress since it originally set off from London to Venice in 1982. Face powdered and slacks prim, a dash of vintage Hollywood reigns supreme throughout its fabulously ornate and storied Art Deco carriages whose recent fans have included everyone from Pharrell to the Beckhams. Ask die-hard fans and they’ll tell you nothing beats the rhythmic sway of the VSOE. The nexus of unapologetic maximalist nostalgia on scale, there’s something quizzically refreshing watching the world stream by out of those huge festive décor flecked windows. Perhaps it’s those ever-changing views or all the flash pomp courtesy of the VSOE-stamped crockery, but for me this inaugural journey down to the Alps oozes the very thing the long train journey to nowhere is about: total escapism. This is the old world of glamour; of sophistication; of a theatrical sketch of the past, and it’s utterly hypnotic. From all corners, beautifully polished wood, stylish marquetry and plush fabrics wow. But above all, it’s really the views that impress as you roar into the mighty Alps bound for Moutiers. Grand lakes dazzle; mist plunges down from the precipices of craggy hills and pastoral landscapes pull the heartstrings for hours on end. It is, in a succinct nutshell, stonkingly fabulous. Remarkably, it’s only until now the train
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Old-school glamour reigns supreme
has meandered this far down the French countryside this time of year. Journeys on the luxe train have traditionally only run from March through to November, and as part of the extension, Belmond is set to debut a total of ten new winter routes. The goal is to bring a bit of extra glamour (and convenience) down to the slopes of Europe’s most famed alpine winter destinations. Then there’s the food, of course. The man tasked with filling up your bellies (and your glasses) is bad boy French chef of the moment, Jean Imbert. ‘I want you to feel part of the history and the magic of the train when you eat,’ he tells me while in his Grand Suite, the well-polished ‘Budapest’, snapping the views. ‘When I told my parents I was appointed chef of the VSOE they said “wow”, and that’s the reaction I want my guests to have here.’ And wow it is. Organic, seasonal and French to a tee, Jean’s posh nosh is all about French haute cuisine with a ‘comfort’ twist. The main action takes place in the dining car, the magisterial L’Oriental for a five-course banger with wine pairings. Think juicy chapon (chicken), a fine bit of turbot and oysters…all very French. Come daytime, brunch comes courtesy of coddled eggs with caviar, a scampi ravioli and a top-notch tarte tatin crowned by a dollop of vanilla ice cream. It’s all so delicious. Post-feast head to the bar car. The party goes on day or night with singers, shakers and piano maestros eager to get your tooshes shimmying and your hands shaking. The pisco sours are non-negotiable and worth the hangover by the time you reach the snow. BOOK IT: From £3,785, belmond.com n
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S CE N T S O F S I CILY
Skincare savante Irene Forte reveals a hidden side to her favourite island
Verdura Resort
STAY
Irene Forte (and above)
‘Verdura Resort is my absolute favourite place to go, located on the south-west coast of Sicily. It has 230 hectares of olive groves and Sicilian countryside, bordering 1.2 miles of coastline. I worked here, we have our organic farm here, it’s home to our biggest Irene Forte Spa, and I also had my wedding here. It’s extra special to me.’
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, PEXELS, UNSPLASH
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icily is the spiritual and material heart of Irene Forte’s world. She’s been visiting the island since 2003, when she explored the area that later became Verdura Resort, one of her father Rocco’s hotels, and is now home to the organic farm from which the principal ingredients for her skincare line are sourced. ‘It’s steeped in history, having been at the crossroads of so many civilisations, so there’s so much to see,’ says Irene. ‘You also have mountains, islands, sea and even a volcano in the landscape. The people are the very best hosts and have retained a strong sense of family tradition, while the food is all about the highest quality ingredients cooked in the most deliciously simple way.’ Here, the skincare entrepreneur shows C&TH around her secret Sicily.
THE GREAT ESCAPE Valley of the Temples
CONNECTED WITH NATURE DO
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, PEXELS, UNSPLASH
‘Caltabellotta is a beautiful town built on the hill in the rock face. I love the romantic Norman cathedral at the top – I got married there so it has a special place in my heart. The 360-degree views are unrivalled. The Valley of the Temples is certainly the most important testimony of the ancient, classical culture of Sicily. It brings together the temples of gods, goddesses, as well as the area of the necropolis and sanctuaries outside the walls. It is a magical place to visit. Just outside Palermo, the cathedral and cloisters at Monreale are frequently cited as the island’s greatest Norman buildings – and with good reason. It is one of the most beautiful cathedrals and cloisters I have ever visited. The interior mosaic decoration is just breathtaking. In Palermo, the Cappella Palatina has often been described as “mini Monreale” – and indeed, it is, with the same spectacular mosaic decoration. The island of Ortigia is one of the most romantic places I have ever been. It is walled all the way round, with the sea gently lapping the mediaeval brickwork. The streets of Ortigia are narrow, with charming little restaurants and cafes throughout. The heart of Ortigia is Piazza del Duomo which features the church which was built on the site of an ancient Greek temple; parts of the temple can still be seen, and it’s just incredible. It’s a fun experience to hike to the top of an active volcano. On Mount Etna, you might have the chance to see the lava flows, while enjoying a sea view over the Mediterranean. While I’ve never been during the winter, there’s also the option to ski then, which would be amazing.’
‘I knew that Sicily’s rich organic ingredients and the bountiful produce of Verdura’s organic farm made the perfect base for a skincare line,’ explains Irene on how Sicily came to be at the heart of her skincare brand, from its packaging (which is inspired by Mount Etna) to its ingredients. Cappella Palatina
These include prickly pear, which is harvested from the leaves of the Sicilian cactus, and has hyaluronic acid-like properties due to its abundance of specific polysaccharides found within its leaves. There’s also white wine, which comes from the Di Giovanna vineyard located near the farm; it’s a vegan and organic wine, rich in proanthocyanidins that hydrate the skin and act as an antioxidant, protecting the skin against free radical damage and promoting cellular renewal. Also from the Forte farm comes olive oil, which is rich in fatty acids, enabling the skin to retain vital nutrients.
Ortigia
Mount Etna
EAT
Sicilian cannoli
‘I recommend the Bar Turistico in Palermo for arancini. You can also get a delicious cannolo at Piana degli Albanesi in the province of Palermo; its cannoli are quite big, with a light but crunchy crust, and super fresh ricotta cream. In Caltabellotta, there is Mates, a delicious family-run restaurant; you can expect all the Sicilian classics, such as Pasta alla Norma [aubergine, marinara and basil].’
Irene’s skincare is used in the spa treatments in hotels Villa Igiea and Verdura Resort, which include the inhalation of orange blossom scent and the ringing of Burgio bells, which are handmade in the local Virgadamo Bell Foundry, a family run workshop that dates back to the 16th century.
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King Charles is a fan of the country that offers up one of Europe’s last true wildernesses, says Olivia Emily
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here’s a fantastical wilderness feel to Bethlen Estates, situated in the small Transylvanian village of Criș. Emerging from my room first thing, a slow worm slithers past my shoe as I tiptoe over grey stepping stones buried in dewy grass. A frog hops in the same spot the next morning, the air crisp in my nostrils and filled with birdsong. Despite its traditional exterior – elevated with restoration but true to its origins – the guest bedrooms of this historic estate are modern and plush; the comforting smell of untreated wood permeates most rooms. From bespoke kitchen cabinetry to madeto-order fireplaces, cosy sheets to delicious smelling soaps, authentic door hinges to roof tiles reclaimed from rubbish heaps, no detail is too small to be painstakingly considered. Gladys Bethlen, matriarch, prides herself on reclamation; Bethlen Estates, she hopes, will be a circular project, investing into the heritage and maintenance of this pretty corner of Romania. Cultural history is at the heart of the estate; before Gladys embarked on this project with her son, Nikolaus, her late husband,
ABOVE & BELOW: The cottages of the Bethlen Estates have been turned into cosy modern rooms
Count Miklós Bethlen, longed to restore life to his ancestral home, 800 years after his family first settled on the land. Miklós was forced to flee the estate in 1948 during the rise of communism; when he returned in 1967, to discover a shrinking population and falling-down buildings, he dedicated his life to supporting the community that remained. Fifty or so years later, Gladys wanders across the estate, collecting fruit in her wicker basket. She’s brimming with the stories she is grappling to keep alive with the restoration of the estate and its buildings: Depner House, a blue Saxon cottage; the wood-clad Corner Barn; the old Caretaker’s House, which now enjoys a private pool; and the Kitchen Barn, where meals are served three times a day. The experimental chef curates a daily feast, made from whatever he can find at local markets that day, from fresh vegetables to succulent venison, championing traditional Transylvanian dishes with fine dining flair. Europe’s last wilderness – that’s how Transylvania is often described. Surrounded by the Carpathian and Apuseni Mountains,
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PHOTOS: © PHILIP VILE; UNSPLASH
H OT E L T R A N S Y LVA N I A
THE GREAT ESCAPE
PHOTOS: © PHILIP VILE; UNSPLASH
The ancestral home of Count Miklós Bethlen, restoring the Bethlen Estates became his life project
it’s a haven for flora and fauna: lush green forests brimming with insects and woodpeckers; colourful wildflower meadows with thousands of native species; wolves, lynxes, majestic deer, bisons, boars and brown bears (an estimated 6,000 of the latter, though no one has successfully counted them all). On a bear-spotting excursion we see foxes and hares from afar, falcons swooping elegantly and cawing above us. A group of three deer gallop through a clearing at the edge of the forest as we trundle along in a classic Land Rover Defender – pausing, interested. Further down the road, returning to reality, fields of sheep fill the roadsides, manned by farmers and their dogs. Our new king loves it here – every guide confirms it – and it’s easy to see why. Before he was King Charles III, HRH created the Prince of Wales’s Foundation Romania in 2015 to assist the region’s heritage preservation, work with local communities, and help farmers and food producers to grow their businesses. He still has a house here in the Valea Zălanului region, near the Saxon village of Viscri. When thinking about Transylvania, it’s inevitable that one toothy character in particular springs to mind. But the real Transylvania hums with a different kind of mythology – that of nature, and of
Feast on locally produced food
abandonment. Ruins dot Bethlen Estates, casting a haunting impression of their previous, pre-communist-era magnificence. Nearby, the tumbling walls of Bethlen Castle, which dates back to 1305, are visible through the trees. You just need to hop in the car (road trips draw many tourists here) to see more rolling hills dotted with castles and traditional cottages, some maintained by the promise of ghosts and other ghouls, and others falling to ruin. For an example of preservation at work, don’t miss the cobble-stoned Sighișoara with its ancient citadel, colourful cottages, the 64m-tall 13th century clock tower, and the unique covered (and slightly strenuous) walk to the top of the hill, where a preserved gothic church houses ancient wall paintings. In this small corner of the hyper-connected world, tradition still rules the day-to-day; one fifth of Romanians are employed by agriculture. The nation is Europe’s fifth largest wine producer, though most is kept within the borders – grown, fermented and drunk at home. Try it in Bethlen Estates’ wine cellar with a tasting, or sample the homemade brandy and Țuică – a spirit made from plums, usually 40–55 percent alcohol. Today, Count Miklós’ dream is being realised by his wife and son, who share gruelling memories of Romania’s turbulent 1970s and 80s. Employing local communities and uplifting independent tour providers, the estate strives to support Transylvanians with education and practical help. And, for visitors, they offer a comfortable glimpse into the wilderness King Charles, and Transylvanians, are so desperate to protect. n
BOOK IT
The Caretaker’s House
The Caretaker’s House starts from €1,400 per night B&B, based on eight sharing. Depner House starts from €700 per night B&B, based on four sharing. Rooms at the Corner Barn start from €300 per night B&B, based on two sharing. bethlenestates.com
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Uluru is Australia’s most ancient and awe-inspiring landmark
DISCOVER ULURU
Have the adventure of a lifetime in Australia’s otherworldly Red Centre, says Juliet Herd
I
t is one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world and Australia’s most ancient landmark but nothing quite prepares you for the sheer majesty and spiritual presence of the incredible sandstone monolith that is Uluru (formerly Ayers Rock). From a distance, it dominates the landscape, crouching like some giant prehistoric creature in the middle of desert scrubland, almost pulsating in the fierce sunshine. At dawn and dusk, this ancient rock puts on a blockbuster light show, turning from pale purple to bright red to gold as the sun rises and then gradually shifting from dusky pink and mauve to crimson and deep aubergine at sunset. To visit the Red Centre of the Northern Territory, the red desert heart of Australia, is an unforgettable experience. Encompassing unofficial capital Alice Springs, World Heritage-listed Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and Kings Canyon region, it is a place of ancient geological formations, rare plants and animals, and exceptional natural beauty. It is also home to many diverse Aboriginal peoples and cultures, most of whom live in remote communities, where more than 100 Aboriginal languages and dialects are spoken and traditional cultural practices maintained. Fly to Alice Springs or Ayers Rock Airport, both within three hours from the east and south coast cities of Australia, to begin your adventure of a lifetime.
KINGS CANYON
Nestled in Watarrka National Park, Kings Canyon, with its soaring red cliffs, ethereal rock formations and hidden watering hole, is one of the Red Centre’s most breathtaking sights. The 3.7-mile rim walk, which takes up to four hours, starts with a steep climb to the top of the canyon, where you can take in panoramic views of the rugged scenery before passing through ancient ‘beehive’ sandstone formations (The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert was filmed here) and continuing down to the lush foliage of the Garden of Eden.
KATA TJUTA
Hike Kings Canyon for pre-historic scenery Kata Tjuta, a sacred place for Aboriginal people
Meaning ‘many heads’ in the Pitjantjatjara language, Kata Tjuta (formerly known as ‘the Olgas’), is a towering collection of 36 domed rock formations, 30 miles from Uluru. The best way to explore this 500-millionyear-old otherworldly landscape is on foot, via the 4.6-mile Valley of the Winds trail, which takes you into the heart of the sacred site. Although challenging in parts, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views from two lookouts before descending the Walpa Gorge and emerging into a valley of native spearwood trees and other rare plants. Watch the last rays of the day illuminate the ochrecoloured western face. (There are also five dedicated sunrise and sunset viewing areas in the park.)
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R E D PL A N E T
The 512-square-mile Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is Aboriginal land and one of the few locations in the world to be dual-listed by UNESCO for both its outstanding cultural and natural values.Although climbing Uluru was banned in 2019, visitors can walk the 6.5 miles around the base, which takes about three and a half hours, or choose to cover sections of it. You’ll pass through acacia woodlands and grassed claypans, encounter noisy finches and nankeen kestrels, and discover Anangu (traditional owners) rock art. Join the free ranger guided Mala walk and learn about the creation ancestors, including the deadly battle between the woma python woman and venomous snake man. Make sure to visit the cultural centre, where you can immerse yourself in First Nations culture and pick up original artwork in the two top notch galleries.
THE GREAT ESCAPE Drink in Australia’s vast horizons from a hot air balloon
STAY
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TOURS
Join a camel ride across the rich red sand dunes (ulurucameltours.com.au); cycle the many desert trails with a Red Centre Adventures guide (redcentre.fun); ride around Uluru on a Segway (ulurusegwaytours.com.au); take a scenic helicopter flight (phs.com.au) over the Red Centre, or float above the desert in a hot air balloon (outbackballooning.com.au). You can also embark on guided sunrise or sunset tours as well as camping or day tours with a range of specialist operators, including Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com), AAT Kings (aatkings. com) and Outback Elite Tours (outbackelitetours.com).
DO
One of the most dazzling sights is Bruce Munro’s Field of Light, a vast art installation that illuminates the desert landscape with 50,000 spindles of light in ochre, deep violet, blue and soft white, reflecting the colours of Uluru. His latest piece, Light-Towers, will open in April 2023 in Kings Canyon. ayersrockresort.com.au
Nestled atop red dunes with uninterrupted private views to both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, Longitude 131o (from $3,780 per night, longitude131.com.au) is the last word in sophisticated camping with 16 tented pavilions featuring floor-to-ceiling glass (with the option to sleep on the balcony in a bespoke swag), bar, restaurant and spa. The tiny township of Yulara, about 12 miles from Uluru, is the hub for accommodation, restaurants and tour operations. Voyages Ayers Rock Resort (ayersrockresort.com.au) offers everything from luxury accommodation to outback camping. Five-star Sails in the Desert (from $475) with its distinctive white sails, comprises 228 luxury rooms and suites, swimming pool, spa, art gallery and brasserie-style restaurant. The company’s more budget-friendly options include Desert Gardens Hotel, Emu Walk Apartments, The Lost Camel Hotel, Outback Pioneer Hotel and air-conditioned cabins at Ayers Rock Camp Ground (from $43 per night). There are free cultural activities held daily in the town centre, including didgeridoo workshops, guided garden walks, astronomy talks and bush yarn sessions. You can also discover the history of dot painting at the Gallery of Central Australia. At Discovery Kings Canyon resort, check into one of 100 newly refurbished rooms or a superior glamping tent (discoveryholidayparks. com.au). In Alice Springs, luxury hotels include DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Alice Springs (hilton.com) and Crowne Plaza Alice Springs Lasseters (ihg. com) or there’s eco-conscious Squeakywindmill Boutique Tent B&B (squeakywindmill. com) on the edge of the Western MacDonnell Ranges.
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Emerald rainforest meets azure seas in tropical Far North Queensland
EXPERIENCE
1
Visit between April and September when the weather is milder, but be advised temperatures can plummet at night if you’re camping.
2 3
Plan your walks in the cooler morning hours.
Wear comfortable clothing and sturdy walking shoes and carry a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent and water bottles. Temperatures can go above 40°C during summer.
4
The Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park has an entry fee of $38 for a three-day pass for anyone 18+ and can be booked online at parksaustralia.gov.au
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Respect Aboriginal culture, laws and protocol, such as asking before taking photos (photography is restricted at sacred sites such as Kata Tjuta).
6
Complimentary return coach transfers are provided for all Ayers Rock Resort hotel guests to and from Ayers Rock Airport.
7
Alice Springs has the most art galleries of any town or city in Australia and is known for its impressive Aboriginal art. northernterritory.com
EAT
Set on a private dune under the Southern desert sky, Ayers Rock Resort’s Tali Wiru restaurant is a unique gastronomic experience. You’ll enjoy a four-course menu incorporating native ingredients in dishes such as pan roasted toothfish with coastal greens, desert oak fermented muntries and a risotto of Australian black truffle and wild mushrooms. Wines are from local vineyards including Cullen and Henschke, and most of the staff are Indigenous. In Alice Springs, you can find a host of culinary offerings, including The Locals, serving tapas and gin, Bella Alice, specialising in woodfired pizza, and the contemporary 1690 Restaurant and Bar at Alice Springs Turf Club, with sensational views of the MacDonnell ranges.
LISTEN
Dining under the night sky sets the tone for your Red Centre experience. Sip sparkling wine while watching the shifting sunset colours of Uluru as the sound of a didgeridoo fills the air. Swap tales with fellow travellers as you enjoy a bush tucker-inspired menu featuring kangaroo, emu and barramundi, before listening to an astronomer decode the hyper-bright Southern stars. ayersrockresort.com.au
WILD N E S S O F OZ
Lauren Ho discovers rock, rainforest and reef in the north-eastern corner of Australia
I
t’s steamy in Cairns. At 8am – the temperature already well into the mid 30s – our plane has just touched down and a suffocating blast of hot air immediately fogs up our sunglasses as we descend the air stairs onto the scorching tarmac. It’s a tremendous change from the cool, fresh weather in South Australia where I had just spent the past few days wandering around the wineries and the rolling hills of the Barossa Valley. From Cairns, the gateway city to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef in tropical Far North Queensland, it’s a one-hour scenic coastal drive north to Daintree National Park. As we motor along the winding Captain Cook Highway, sandwiched between the blue waters of the Coral Sea and jungle-sheathed emerald green mountains, my driver, Len – who has lived in the region his whole life – chats to me about the area, which is home to an exciting panoply of attractions including the Whitsunday Islands (one of Australia’s loveliest destinations), the 135-million-year-old Daintree Rainforest (the oldest in the world) and, of course, the Great Barrier Reef. Historically undeveloped, this region, Len tells me, has 36 national parks and sits to the north of Queensland which, with an area of 1,727,000 sq/km, is Australia’s second largest state and is seven times the size of Great Britain. This gives you an idea of Australia’s sheer expanse. The sixth largest country after Russia, Canada, China, the USA and Brazil, it can take you almost five-hours to fly from the east of the country to the west. And with a number of must-visit hotspots – from the Sydney Opera House to the picturesque Great Ocean Road in Melbourne – scattered all over the mainland, navigating this island (the world’s biggest) can take some planning
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TOP TIPS
The one-hour ‘walk and talk’ Karrke Aboriginal cultural experience on the edge of the Watarrka National Park offers an insight into one of the oldest living cultures on earth. You’ll learn about seasonal bush tucker, like the famous witchetty grub, artefacts such as non-returning boomerangs, and the significance of dot paintings as well as bush medicine plants and their uses. karrke.com.au
THE GREAT ESCAPE
Explore Daintree Rainforest, the oldest in the world
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Spot freshwater turtles in the Mossman River
– especially when on limited time. Of course, flying or driving between the country’s major cities – which mostly lie along the eastern coast – is a no brainer, as is visiting the many wine regions that lie further inland in states like New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. And then you have Uluru, Australia’s sandstone monolith that has not one but two UNESCO World Heritage listings to its name, as well as a strong significance to the local Anangu people, who have lived within the region for thousands of years. Combined with visiting Cairns, and a trip to Far North Queensland, this makes for a perfect nature-oriented itinerary of rock, rainforest and reef. And so, back on the Captain Cook Highway, we pass Port Douglas, a relaxed seaside village, before heading slightly inland to Silky Oaks Lodge (silkyoakslodge.com.au). Recently having emerged from a major refurbishment, the retreat sits on the banks of the gently babbling Mossman River, which has carved a path amid the moist, dense canopy of the Daintree Rainforest. The 40 treehouse-style suites are fashioned from local timber, each with specially commissioned local artwork, floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the emerald greenery outside, outdoor bathtubs and balconies with gently swinging hammocks. It’s here where I while away a morning, the air slick on my skin, against the high-pitched soundtrack of buzzing cicadas. Later that day I meet up with Juan Walker, an Indigenous Kuku Yalanji person who teaches me about the history of his people in the area, their customs and past way of life. At the same time, we explore the string of beaches and rainforest, all of which are filled with flora
and fauna traditionally used to treat everything from sunburn and sprains to even drawing the fatal venom from a stonefish. After a brief stop at Mossman Gorge – a 56,000-hectare area within the Daintree National Park where vibrant blue butterflies flit above crystal-clear waters that tumble over a scattering of ancient granite boulders into a rock pool filled with frolicking locals and visitors - we make our way through the jungle to a clearing on the banks of the Mossman River. Here, we bundle up in wetsuits for a snorkelling session in the (crocodile-free) crystal-clear waters, where we spot drifting freshwater turtles and, below the surface, under the rocks and tangle of roots, fish such as barramundi and mangrove jack. My last day was the loveliest. In Port Douglas, under bright blue skies, I boarded a catamaran and headed north east towards the Low Isles, a four-acre coral cay punctuated by a 144-year-old lighthouse surrounded by 55 acres of reef. On arrival, we were received by a cacophony of nesting marine birds, flying to and fro, their high-pitched chatter harmonising with the lapping of the waves on the beach. After a morning spent snorkelling, watching an array of colourful fish, sea turtles, nurse sharks and parrot fish dart in and out of the gently swaying coral, we head back on board for lunch and a gentle afternoon under the sun. Bar a couple of other day boats, the horizon was silent, the sea peppered with marine life, the gentle bobbing of our catamaran breaking the stillness of the water around us. We were only a short 15km from the buzz of Port Douglas, but it felt a world away. Under the fading light, we headed back to the mainland, the engines silent, the wind propelling us quietly forward in a hushed corner of beautiful Australia. Lauren was a guest of Tourism Australia and Cathay Pacific. For more information, visit australia.com; walkaboutadventures.com.au; cathaypacific.com backcountrybliss.com.au n
Be at one with nature in Silky Oaks Lodge’s treehouse suites
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MADRID TO SAN SEBASTIAN The inside track through Spain’s wine country
T
here’s a reason why Spain remains one of Britain’s favourite holiday destinations. The land of blue skies, Cervantes and siestas, its rich culture and history is matched by its exquisite cuisine, beautiful landscapes and, of course, excellent wine. Insider’s Travel, the expert in creating unforgettable holiday experiences, is now offering a seven-night tour showcasing art, fine wine and gastronomy in a route that starts in Madrid and ends in San Sebastian. First up, the tour visits the bustling Spanish capital for a dive into its art, Castilian gastronomy, vibrant tapas bars and lesser-known, yet excellent, Madrilenian wines. There will be guided tours of the Prado Museum and Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia, a dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world, and a flamenco show at one of Madrid’s best local tablaos. Next, the group will enjoy private vineyard tours and tastings as it explores the fertile Ribera del Duero wine region, which is known for its tempranillo grape and for producing some of Spain’s most admired reds. Sometimes referred to as Spain’s ‘noble grape’, it’s the main variety used in the full-bodied wines this area is known for. The group will visit three selected wineries in this highly revered wine region: Dominio de Cair, Ismael Arroyo and the magnificent country estate of Bodegas Áster.
FROM TOP: Vineyards of La Rioja; La Concha Bay in San Sebastian; the sculptures of Eduardo Chillida; Insider’s Travel founder and tour host Joanna Wivell
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PR O M OT I O N
It then leaves the plateau of Ribera for the Mediterranean climate of La Rioja, to visit three wineries selected to give a high-quality overview of what the region is all about. These include Conde de los Andes, whose subterranean caves are referred to as the Sistine Chapel of La Rioja. They feature some of Spain’s finest Moorish architecture as well as housing 400,000 bottles including vintages dating back to 1892, 1918, 1948 and 1964. Also on the schedule is a private tour and lunch at Bodega Marqués de Murrieta, whose Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva 2010 was rated by The Spectator as the best wine in the world in 2020. One of the region’s truly foundational wineries, dating back to the 1850s, the bodega is known for pioneering the local use of French techniques to enhance the complexity and longevity of the region’s signature tempranillo grape. Then it’s on to meet Rioja’s latest star, wine-maker Javier Sampedro, in his winery for lunch and tasting. The tour concludes in the Basque Country for an immersion into the rich heritage of the region’s culture, from the sacred gastronomic Txoko dining club in San Sebastian to the fishing village of Getaria, via a visit to sculptor Eduardo Chillida’s sculpture garden, led by the artist’s grandson Mikel. The week-long trip comes to a fitting end with dinner at Martin Berasategui’s world-renowned threeMichelin-star restaurant. Joining Joanna and the group en route will be Spanish wine expert Raul Orantes, who grew up in hospitality working in his parents’ Madrid restaurant, and who now takes hundreds of guests through Spain to understand why wines taste like they do and to meet the people behind them. Also joining the tour is gastronomist Gabriella Ranelli, who was featured in the Wall Street Journal as one of the Top 10 Culinary Guides in the world. She also assisted the great Anthony Bourdain on his trips to the Basque Country, and is a teacher at the Basque Culinary Centre. For lovers of wine, travel, culture and fine food, the tour is an unmissable opportunity to really get beneath the surface of the much-loved country that is Spain – and to become a true insider. BOOK IT: Wine, Art, Gastronomy: Madrid to San Sebastian, 21-28 May 2023, £4,595 (single supp, £855). insiderstravel.io C&TH readers get £100 off if they book before 1 March 2023 with the code CTH100
FROM ABOVE: Wines from the Michelin-starred Martin Berasategui restaurant in San Sebastian; Bodega Áster in Ribera del Duero; tasting the best of Madrid on a tapas tour
ON THE INSIDE TRACK Founded by Joanna Wivell 15 years ago, Insider’s Travel was started to give travel lovers a personal, insider’s view of Spain, where she had lived for 19 years. The company also now creates incredible bespoke itineraries for many more European destinations, including Italy, France, Germany and Scandinavia. Whether you’re joining for one day or several, each Insider’s Travel tour is carefully curated to take its guests behind the scenes of the country it’s visiting, and is led by its fascinating and charismatic local experts. Every trip offers a rich array of cultural, artistic and gourmet experiences, plus behind-the-scenes access, expert talks and private views where possible. The range of tours on offer include group, private and bespoke options, so you’ll always be able to find one that fits your requirements. Find out more and book your next trip at insiderstravel.io
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MAKE A DIFFERENCE
OUR RIVERS ARE DYING! All our rivers are polluted beyond legal limits
River Action UK is a highly impactful charity on a mission to rescue Britain’s rivers from a deluge of agricultural, sewage and industrial pollution, and we need your help! www.riveractionuk.com info@riveractionuk.com @riveraction
CHARITY PARTNER 2023
PLEASE DONATE TO STOP THIS CRISIS river-action-uk.app.thedonationapp.com/donate
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PHOTOS: MATT RUSSELL
FOOD&DRINK
Hold Your BREATH
A gutsy garlicky soup to chase away the chills
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FOOD & DRINK | Recipe
Provençal Garlic Soup with Saffron, Sage, Sorrel and Egg
Alex Jackson is head chef at the acclaimed Noble Rot in Soho
PICTURED ON PREVIOUS PAGE
SERVES 4 — 3 litres/5¼ pints water or some good, light, homemade chicken stock — 2 heads of garlic, cloves separated with 1 small garlic clove reserved — 4 sage leaves — A small pinch of saffron — 4 eggs — 4 thin pieces of bread, sourdough or similar — A handful of sorrel, or chard leaves (100g/3½ oz) finely shredded — 40g/1½ oz Parmesan or other hard cheese — Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
METHOD
Foodie TALES Alex Jackson advises ditching the big shop
What is your food philosophy? Try wherever possible to keep it simple. What is the fi rst dish you ever learnt to cook? Penne pasta with wok-fried chicken strips and tomato sauce. What’s your favourite in-season ingredient? Cabbage! It’s also truffle season but I’m not that glamorous. What is your most memorable meal out? Bistrot de Paradou in Provence. Set menu – Grand aïoli was the main course. Rustic, simple French perfection. When you’re not in the kitchen, where are you? At home, or in between. And possibly a pub. Do you have any unique cooking rituals? None of this is unique, I hope, but open a bottle of wine and put on some music. Maybe light a candle if you’re feeling romantic. What’s your dream dinner date? I think my late Grandma. What is one piece of sustainable food advice you’d give to our readers? Don’t do a big shop. It's more fun when you spend ages in the shop deciding what to have for dinner. Provençal by Alex Jackson (Harpers Collins, £26) n
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Pour the water (or stock) into a pan and add the garlic, sage leaves and a pinch of salt. Place over a high heat and bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer for 20 mins, or until the garlic is soft and the broth tastes full and delicious. Mash the garlic cloves into the soup to extract all of their garlicky goodness, then strain the broth through a sieve and discard the mashed garlic and sage. Add the pinch of saffron and a little black pepper, then return to the heat and simmer gently for a further few minutes. One at a time, crack each egg into a small bowl and slide it into the broth. Simmer gently for around two minutes, or until the eggs are soft-poached. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs carefully from the broth, place them in individual serving bowls and set aside. Next, toast the bread. Rub each slice with the reserved raw garlic and drizzle with olive oil. Place one slice of toast in each serving bowl next to the egg. You can strain the broth again to remove any straggly egg whites, if they bother you. If you do so, you’ll lose the saffron, which is a shame. Bring the broth back to a simmer, taste for seasoning and throw in the shredded sorrel or chard leaves. The sorrel brings a much-needed acidity to the soup, but if using only chard, add a little squeeze of lemon. Cook the leaves for no more than 10 seconds or they will go a little sludgy. To serve, pour the broth into the bowls over the eggs and toast. Grate the Parmesan (or other hard cheese) over the soup and eat while hot.
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FOOD & DRINK | News FLIRTY TIPPLE Savoia’s sexy, rose-tinted aperitif sets the mood for a romantic February. This bittersweet base won’t leave you heartbroken – it’s made from oak-aged masala fine wine from Sicily, alongside 20 botanicals including gentian root and bitter orange peel. From £22, casa-savoia.com
CHEAT MEAL
Flirt with some artisanal vegan spins on the dairy-stuff – Julienne Bruno’s vegan burrella will have your senses fooled. From £4.50, juliennebruno.com
Gastro GOSSIP
Sweet treats to tickle your fancy, says Tessa Dunthorne
SPILL THE TEA
Pop the kettle on and enjoy a deep dive into the history of tea, as told through the story of the Twinings tea company. Beautifully illustrated and absolutely captivating, make sure to pop the kettle on before hunkering down. £25, twinings.co.uk
LUCKY CHARM
What’s luckier than one horseshoe? Th ree, of course. Great news for Somerset, then, as Argot Henderson OBE is opening his new venture, a restoration of the 17th century coaching inn, The Th ree Horseshoes, early 2023. thethreehorseshoesbatcombe.co.uk
TV DINNER
Who said a frozen meal needed to be boring or bland? Instead of slaving away mid-week over the stove, let the experts at Dovebrook Kitchen prep your dinner. Plus, it’s all vegan. Our favourite? The Persian dried lime and herb stew. Bundles from £54, dovebrook.com
SUGAR CRUSH Nothing says ‘be my Valentine’ like a classic box of chocolates – and Maison Pierre Marcolini’s new cœur à cœur collection of locked hearts are the perfect way to let them know how you feel. Little bites of affection. £11.90, available in the Marylebone Maison Pierre Marcolini boutique, Selfridges and Harrods. marcolini.co.uk 142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | January/February 2023
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Restaurants | FOOD & DRINK
FOR YOUR PLATES ONLY Members’ club restaurants worth the annual fee
TEN TRINITY SQUARE, The City
Ten Trinity Square is everything you could wish a members’ club to be – and more. A separate entrance in the marble lobby of the Four Seasons leads you through a warren of golden-lit passages to this luxurious hideaway, which still retains the original wood panelling and architectural details that Sir Edwin Cooper included when he designed the building for the Port of London Authority in the early 20th century. As well as richly decorated meeting rooms, cigar lounge and inviting whisky-stocked bar, at the heart of Ten Trinity Square is its restaurant, helmed by head chef Alex Tzatzos. After several years at Nobu, Alex joined Ten Trinity Square in 2021, bringing with him a passion for Japanese flavours that he cleverly infuses across his whole menu. The dishes range from caviar and guacamole tacos to salmon sashimi with yuzu, and from langoustine orzo to halibut with bouillabaisse sauce. Each can be accompanied by a wine expertly handpicked by the club’s sommelier. tentrinitysquare.com
TRAMP, St James
From Frank Sinatra to The Beatles, via Mick Jagger and Elizabeth Taylor, Tramp’s famous entrance on Jermyn Street has welcomed a flurry of A-list faces over the years to dance in its famous rooms, and drink cocktails in its low-lit bars. Now, a new era has begun with the reintroduction of the venue’s famous Club Zodiac nightclub restaurant. Every Friday night, DJ Daisy Heartbreaker spins party anthems while diners tuck into delicious dishes like grilled tiger prawns, beef short rib with mashed potato and Eton mess, underneath a ceiling dotted with the carved astrological signs that give the restaurant its name. Also on the menu are steaks, burgers and truffle risotto – just the thing to line the stomach before a night on Tramp’s iconic tiles. Added fun is seeing if you can spot any famous fellow-diners tucking into their dinner on the table next door. From 9pm. tramp.co.uk
TRAMP PHOTO: © THEYCALLMEGT
FOR SECONDS
12 HAY HILL, Mayfair If you’re looking to dine elbow-to-elbow with the innovators and leaders of today, 12 Hay Hill is the place to do it. This club is all about business – and the food doesn’t fuss around either. Chef Shaun Rankin whips up a dinner that’ll clinch the deal; he’s particularly good with seafood, and the lobster ravioli is the must-have dish on the menu. 12hayhill.com
THE TWENTY TWO, Mayfair A jaunt downstairs at The Twenty Two reveals its club dining room. Serving up seasonal Italian dishes, you’ll tuck into fresh caviar or monkfish crudo. Nonmembers can also enjoy the recently opened club’s public-facing restaurant on the ground floor – but for exclusive eats, it’s definitely all about the club experience. the22.london.com
THE FITZDARES CLUB, Mayfair The menu of this riotous racing members’ club, curated by head chef Stephane Huc-Hepher, captures British fare in a playful fashion. Highlights includes its brie and truffle tart, stuffed to the brim with melted cheese and topped with a balmy orange egg yolk. Plus, the races provide brilliant conversational fodder should you ever run out of topics. fitzdares.com
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GAME ON Ben McCormack heads to Berkshire to tackle the UK’s exploding wild deer population
PHOTOS: © ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS
H
unting deer – or stalking, to use the proper term – conjures up images of City boys roaming the Scottish Highlands before toasting the day’s successful shots with a single malt by a roaring fire. And yet the wood that I’m creeping through slowly and silently is in Berkshire, not Balmoral, quarter of an hour off the A4 and 60 minutes from London. With me is Ben Heath, whose wild venison delivery business, Deer Box, is based on the other side of Newbury, and chef Mark Kempson of the Michelin-starred Kitchen W8 in Kensington, last year’s best restaurant winner at the Eat Game Awards. Rather than shooting for sport, we’re tackling the UK’s exploding wild deer population. ‘Muntjac,’ whispers Ben, pointing to the dense undergrowth on the riverbank opposite and passing me a pair of thermal imaging binoculars, through which the head of a young buck is visible as a tiny cluster of red and white dots. He makes a whooping noise to mimic a fawn in distress in the hope of attracting a concerned doe but, as I pass the binoculars back, I see two flashes of fluffy white tail disappearing over the ridge of the bank to safety.
Chefs Mark Kempson and Nikita Pathakji learn the ropes from Ben Heath
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PHOTOS: © ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS
Spotlight | FOOD & DRINK
Take a walk through the British countryside and you’re unlikely to know whether there are deer anywhere nearby; they are timid creatures and shun human company. And yet there are estimated to be around two million wild deer in the UK, more than at any time in the past 1,000 years, only 350,000 of which are culled annually. Muntjac are running amok here in the south east of England, fallow deer in East Anglia and the Midlands and red deer in the north of Scotland. Those fluffy white tails might look cute, but mouths and hooves cause huge damage to woodland habitats and saplings, which puts deer on a collision course with the government’s plan to increase tree-planting rates across the UK to 30,000 hectares per year. Much of the wild venison shot in the UK is exported to continental Europe and yet here is an abundant source of nutrient-rich meat – venison is naturally lean, high in protein and contains twice as much iron as beef or lamb – literally on many people’s doorsteps. Which is where Deer Box comes in. The company was founded in 2020 by chef Mike Robinson and Ben, one of his principal deer managers, and grew out of the former’s previous business of supplying wild venison to the restaurant trade. Today, Deer Box supplies the likes of The Ritz and Adam Handling Restaurant Group as well as home cooks who want to get their hands on the same quality meat used by Michelin-starred chefs, from haunch, saddle and shoulder to sausages, burgers and kebabs, all of which come with recipe suggestions. ‘The difference between a wild deer and a deer farmed in a park is considerable,’ Ben says. ‘People assume that because a park deer has been raised in a controlled environment it will be a wonderful-looking creature and that wild deer are mean-looking and scrawny. But we live in a moderate climate with mild weather. A wild deer can go where it wants, when it wants and eat what it wants. It’s a superior product and yet despite being a massive wild resource, people buy imported farmed venison most of the time.’ Our first family of muntjacs might have scampered off but chef Mark has better luck with the second one we come across, cleanly killing it through the neck with his first-ever shot. Ten days later, once the carcass has been hung, skinned, inspected by FSA vets and UK stamped (like all Deer Box meat), I’m sitting down in Kitchen W8 to a splendid five-course venison menu. ‘I’ve never had that experience of being the person to harvest the animal myself and I felt it was my duty to make sure that every last morsel was used and respected,’ Mark says of the inspiration behind courses such as muntjac breast tortellini with roasted chestnut broth, yellow chanterelles and pickled pear. ‘I hadn’t eaten muntjac for almost 20 years so this was a really pleasant reminder of how special the meat is.’ You don’t, of course, need to shoot it yourself: Deer Box sells muntjac loin steaks for next-day delivery. Kitchen W8, 11-13 Abingdon Road, London W8, kitchenw8.com; deerbox.co.uk
WILD FOOD
Make the most of nature’s plate
Chef Mark Kempson of Kitchen W8
Discover Mark Kempson’s recipe for barbecued rosemary, black pepper and orange marinated venison loin with a winter slaw at countryandtownhouse.com
HOW TO COOK VENISON ‘Low and slow is a great introduction to cooking venison at home,’ Mark says. ‘Cuts like the shoulder or shank work really well in a casserole or stew. Venison is fairly close to lamb but because the deer are wild the meat doesn’t have the same fat covering so it needs to be cooked carefully and at the correct temperature. A steak from the loin, though, can be cooked quickly at a high heat in the same way as a piece of beef. And the most basic and easy way to use venison is to replace beef mince with venison mince. At home my children really like a venison lasagne or shepherd’s pie.’ HOW TO START DEER STALKING An estimated 100,000 people go deer stalking in the UK every year. There are three main ways to become a qualified deer stalker, gain experience and get a lease and permission to stalk. One of the best routes into deer stalking is to shadow an experienced stalker or pay to go out with a stalking guide, who will help you through the process and allow you to take the shot. Another way to open doors is by completing the Deer Stalking Certificates Level 1 and 2. Gaining permission or a lease to stalk deer on a piece of ground is the ultimate way into deer stalking. However, it is far easier said than done, and most times will require previous experience and qualifications. Visit basc.org. uk for more info n
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PROPERTY Edited by Anna Tyzack
HOUSE OF THE MONTH
Point House, Parrot Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, BWI, 5 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, 7,000 sq/ft
Sell it to us in a sentence… A private island retreat that offers blissful beach-front luxury. How would you describe it? Richly finished in soft undertones of wood and marble. What’s unique about it? It’s one of only 12 estates on the private island. Any history? It was designed by worldrenowned architect Cheong Yew Kuan. Best room? The spacious covered lounge deck facing the pool and ocean. What would summers be like here? Tranquility at its best, with the sound of the ocean and nature Perks of the location? All the amenities of five-star resort Como Parrot Cay, with great food and an amazing spa. The current owner says…. ‘This has been one of the most beautiful homes we’ve had the privilege of owning. It’s provided us with lifelong memories, and is one of the most peaceful and private locations in the world. It’s allowed us to unwind in a way that one can’t do anywhere else. Private island living is a special experience that puts you back in touch with what is really important in life. And we’ve loved the incredible five-star service from Como, Parrot Cay, the island’s custodians.’ +1 (649) 432 7653; christiesrealestate.com; pointhouseparrotcay.com
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PROPERTY | Five of the Best
HOLIDAY HOMES
Unpack your bags at your home away from home, says Tessa Dunthorne CALIFORNIA, USA, £20.3m
An original 1920s beach house on the Santa Monica Gold Coast, this villa has five ensuite bedrooms in addition to its own spa room. The primary suite showcases the view of the sea with walls of glass – and if you don’t fancy a swim in the ocean, you’ve got your own private infinity pool. It further boasts its own cinema, games room and gym. hamptons-international.com
BARCELONA, SPAIN, €290,000/share
Bordering two lively neighbourhoods in the centre of the Catalonian capital, this Art Nouveau apartment retains its 19th century accents, high-vaulted ceilings and cast iron railings. It’s part of August’s Pied à Terre collection, which also includes shares in homes in Paris, Rome and Cannes. august collection.co.uk
HOKKAIDO, JAPAN, £1.67m
Nestled in the heart of the Izumikawa golf course and with access to the best ski resort in the region, this serviced luxury chalet is a versatile holiday home for all seasons. A recent build, it offers four bedrooms for hosting – your guests can also enjoy the steamy hot tub and relaxing fireplace. christiesrealestate.com
QUINTO DE LAGO, PORTUGAL, from €3.9m
Enjoy over 300 days of Mediterranean sunshine each year in these Horizon villas. The collection of residences all host either five or six bedrooms and are kitted out with private home cinemas, spas and gyms. The wine cellars and private chefs’ kitchen are just an added bonus. onegreenway.pt
COTSWOLDS, £1.5m
There’s nothing dreamier than a cabin by the water. Nestled on the shore of Marley Lake, these two-bedroom rural Cotswolds cabins in The Lakes by Yoo allow direct access to the water, opening up outdoor adventures like wild swimming and paddleboarding. Retractable glass doors further bring the outside in. The ideal staycation escape. thelakesbyyoo.com
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Dreaming of owning a second home? Own a Collection of homes in France, Spain and Italy. All of the benefits of homeownership, completely hassle free. Experience the epitome of luxury living with August's curated collection of exclusive second homes in Europe's most desirable locations. From awe-inspiring interiors to breathtaking views, every detail of our properties is crafted to the highest standards. Imagine owning multiple luxurious escapes that you can call your own, where you can enjoy endless holidays, all while being part of a community of like-minded individuals. Prices start at €290,000.
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16/01/2023 16:10
Let’s Move To...
COMPORTA
Anna Tyzack gets the lowdown on Portugal’s trendiest postcode
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH
C
omporta on the Troia Peninsula, just over an hour from Lisbon in Santo family, who commissioned their favourite artists, artisans and Portugal, is beloved by George Clooney and Madonna but it is not, architects to design the first new homes. Philippe Stark and Christian the locals insist, the new Ibiza. ‘It’s trendy, make no mistake – but Louboutin are among those who already own homes in the region, along it epitomises slowness and simplicity. It’s a little corner of paradise with Carla Bruni and Monica Bellucci. At the epicentre of Herdade da Comporta is the fishing village of between ocean and rice fields,’ maintains Antoine Gurwitch, who runs Alma Da Comporta, a selection of upmarket holiday villas and houses Comporta, still charmingly rustic and with a handful of upmarket hotels (alma-da-comporta.com). Indeed, ten years ago the Comporta area, Herdade that epitomise shabby chic style: Sublime Comporta is a collection of da Comporta, which comprises 12,500 hectares of pristine Alentejo coastline, rooms, suites and villas with pools amid 17 hectares of umbrella pines, pine forests, sand dunes and seven fishing villages, was still cork trees and white sand beaches (sublimecomporta.pt); Quinta da Comporta is a sustainable resort and spa (quintadacomporta. largely undiscovered; until 2014 it was owned privately by com), while Comporta Café is the ultimate rustic beach club, the Espirito Santo family whose vision it was to develop with restaurant, bar and DJ at weekends (comportacafe.com.pt). the area sensitively, maintaining its ‘tranquilidade’. ‘It’s the Comporta isn’t big on night life, though; most homeowners, Bohemian jetsetter hotspot,’ maintains Jo Leverett, head of international residential at Cluttons (cluttons.com). according to Knight Frank's Alex Koch de Gooreynd, ‘People come here for peace, quiet and exclusivity.’ prefer to relax and unwind at home rather than go to The Alentejo coastline, while remarkably accessible, a club (knightfrank.com). ‘Or they’ll enjoy a Sagres at has a raw beauty, not dissimilar to that of southern a pared back beach bar watching the dolphins,’ he Spain in the Sixties, before the high-rise apartments says. ‘This is not a place for wild nights out. People arrived. The fishing villages are simple, useful places socialise in each other’s homes.’ with independent fishmongers, butchers and bakers The dream for many second home buyers is to and weekly produce markets. Reassuringly, there find a large plot in the area and build a barefoot is no danger it will ever become overdeveloped, luxury home in the local style. According to Vitor Paiva of Engel & Völkers in Comporta, they Leverett explains, as it is both an ecological and agricultural reserve with stringent planning see buying in this part of Portugal as an exciting regulations – much of the land cannot be built on investment opportunity as well as a lifestyle purchase at all and those homes that do obtain permission (engelvolkers.com). ‘The real estate investment presents The Clooneys are fans of must be ecological in design and reflect Comporta’s a high value potential for the next five to ten years,’ Comporta and were rumoured to be building a house there low-key, design-led style, inspired by the Espirto he says. Meanwhile, the short rental returns on beach
PROPERTY houses and villas are already equivalent to the fashionable South of France, with fivebedroom properties with pools within one km of the beach renting for up to £20,000 per week in high season. ‘The area around Comporta village is now almost sold out; buyers are heading to Melides, which is the next fishing village down the coast and is set to become even more exclusive,’ explains Jo Leverett; the village of Carvalhal is another emerging hotspot. For those who would rather buy off-plan in a managed scheme, there are various options under development, including The Atlantic Club, a chic residential community of 21 villas by French designer Jacques Granges, who designed the Mark Hotel in New York (atlanticclubcomporta.com), and Muda Reserve, a rural development of 175 villas with pools and facilities including a restaurant, grocery store, sports ground and church (vangproperties.com). Also popular with British buyers is Spatia Melides (spatiaresidences.com), a five-star beachfront domaine with spa, beach club and a sister development, Spatia Comporta. Some of the highest prices are found at the Costa Terra Golf & Ocean Club, a 720-acre community on a mile of beachfront with golf, treehouse
restaurant, and riding and surfing academies (costaterra.com). Those on a smaller budget, meanwhile, must look inland, Leverett continues, around villages such as Alcácer do Sal, where apartments start at around €280,000 and a farmhouse or villa with scope for restoration will cost from €850,000. Inland properties have the added benefit of qualifying for the golden visa program, a residency by investment scheme, which enables British and other non-EU buyers to become Portuguese citizens within five to six years. For more information see getgoldenvisa.com. At present Comporta is still very much a holiday destination rather than a place to settle permanently. There aren’t the international schools, private hospitals and jobs of more established destinations in the South of France and Spain. ‘Realistically, if you were going to be working in Lisbon, you’d probably settle in Cascais, near the airport with an excellent international school and various country clubs,’ Leverett says. Yet if you can take a longer-term view, there is no doubt that Comporta will support its own expat community in the future; the developer Vanguard Properties has already announced plans to create the first private hospital and international school. ‘Comporta is Portugal’s answer to Ramatuelle in France or Montauk in USA,’ Leverett insists. ‘It might not have the clubs of Ibiza or the Michelin star restaurants of St Tropez but that is why people love it… It is understated, unspoilt luxury.’ Low key, unpretentious luxury is at the heart of bohemian Comporta
BEST FOR
SPA DAY The spa at Sublime Comporta uses locally sourced ingredients including rice, seasalt and freshly harvested organic plants grown in the hotel’s garden. sublimecomporta.pt GALLOP WITH THE WIND IN YOUR HAIR Cavalos na Areia 'the horses in the sand' is an equestrian centre amid rice fields, a few minutes from the beach. cavalosnaareia.com A SCENTED BIKE RIDE Hire bikes and take an early afternoon ride through the pine forests, culminating in a swim (or maybe an evening surf lesson?) on the beach and a beer.
DAY TRIP TO LISBON Take a 25-minute scenic car ferry from Troia to Setubal and then drive on to Lisbon for lunch in town. atlanticferries.pt A LOCAL WINE TOUR Tour the Herdade da Comporta winery, a sustainable vineyard and agricultural estate, and taste the wine in a magnificent cellar. herdadedacomporta.pt
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH
FOR SALE
ALCÁCER DO SAL, €400,000 A one-bedroom duplex apartment on a nature-inspired housing project with access to a swimming pool, river and farm-to-table restaurant. Local wood has been used throughout to tie in with the surrounding landscape. Completion due December 2024. cluttons.pt
COMPORTA, €2.5m Numa Comporta is an exclusive development of 21 luxurious villas combining outdoor living with traditional construction and contemporary design. Each villa has four bedroom suites, open plan living and a garden with terraces and a pool. knightfrank.com
MELIDES, €3.79m Spatia Melides is an elegant and modern five-star resort on a pristine and deserted Atlantic beach with crystal-clear water, beautiful spa, restaurant and sports club. It's an untouched natural sanctuary with all the amenities of a luxury hotel. cluttons.pt n
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LAST WORD Michael speaking with Eric at a Help To Grow: Management event at BAFTA
Tales of our Time
‘I
Michael Hayman on being the right kind of troublemaker
hope you’re using your voice for good. I hope you’re using your voice for good disruption and making what I call good trouble.’ The words of Eric Collins, the investor and host of Channel 4’s The Money Maker. And he shared them with me at a recent event I chaired for aspiring entrepreneurs at BAFTA in London, celebrating alumni of the ‘Help To Grow: Management’ course. As the author of We Don’t Need Permission: How Black Business Can Change our World, Eric is putting his time to good use. His is an incredible call to action to empower a new generation of ethnic minority founders of ambitious growth firms. With his book, he has written a fascinating
page turner, as well as a personal guide to leading a life well lived. As he says, ‘Nothing is as liberating as throwing off the mental shackles that form alongside the need to ask for permission.’ It’s the crucial step in creating the world we want to see. It’s advice that has served him well. Eric studied at Harvard Law School with a fellow student who went on to become the 44th President of the United States, Barack Obama. He would go on to serve on the president’s Small Business Administration’s Council on Underserved Communities. As the founder of Impact X, Eric has also built an investment platform to back underrepresented founders – particularly black and female entrepreneurs – who have the potential to change the world. And let’s not forget his hit show, The Money
Maker, which helped small business leaders the length and breadth of the UK. He has been named by the Powerlist as one of the most influential Black people in Britain, and by The Financial Times as one of the country’s top 100 Black, Asian and minority ethnic leaders. If there is a theme here it is positivity and embracing the belief that change can happen. When I was interviewing Eric I was struck by the old saying that it’s easier to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission. But that motto also needs an update, because permission itself can all too often be the crux of the problem: it holds us back from making brave choices, and limiting our life chances. And if you understand that you don’t need anyone’s permission, then you may have just taken the first step to a life of making good trouble. n
LISTEN Eric Collins speaks with Michael on the podcast Change Makers (changemakers.works). READ We Don’t Need Permission by Eric Collins (£10.99, Bantam Press). WATCH Journeys of Discovery: Freedom, Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, Royal Festival Hall, Wednesday 22 March 2023
IMAGES: © BEN WRIGHT
TA L K I N G P O I N T S
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