Country & Town House - July/August 2022 by Country & Town House Magazine

A LIFE IN BALANCE

DIRTY WORK

JULY/AUGUST 2022 £4.95

DOLLY’S GIRL

The conscious creatives saving our soil AFRICA’S CROSSROADS Which path will it choose?

Emma Appleton is one to watch

PAGES OF INTELLIGENT WELLNESS

WE NEED REGENERATION Why sustainability isn’t enough Cover-V5-LC.indd 2

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JEWELS THAT TELL TIME

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Van Cleef & Arpels is unveiling a collection of 25 unique creations, all of them originating from a single rough diamond weighing 910 carats. Combining DIF stones of the highest quality and the emblematic Mystery Set technique, each piece has been crafted in the Maison’s workshops on Place Vendôme, home to all its High Jewelry savoir-faire.

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“ W E ’ R E N OT H E R E TO T RY. W E ’ R E H E R E TO D O.” T O M B R A DY, 7 T I M E S U P E R B OW L C H A M P I O N

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B I G P I L O T ’ S WAT C H T O P G U N E D I T I O N “ M O J AV E D E S E R T ” When you’ve reached the top of your game and have nothing left to prove, you can sit back and enjoy your success. Or you can tap into the spirit that inspired it all and embark on an even greater challenge. And when you do that, there’s no better companion than the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch, the choice of individuals destined to make their mark.

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A FAMILY STORY

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Contents

JULY AUGUST 2022

COLUMNS 24 26 184

THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B is told to cut down on the cream and cheese THE RURBANIST Raymond Blanc LAST WORD Entrepreneurs should lead the fight against climate change, argues Michael Hayman

STYLE 31 32 34 36 38 40

SUN DAZE Breeze through the summer months in flowing whites THE EDIT Style updates TREND Mariella Tandy’s favourite small-batch brands THE MAGPIE Jewellery news WELL GROOMED Men’s style MY STYLE Dopamine dressing with Paper’s Philippa Thackeray

HEALTH & WELLBEING 43 44

46 47 48 49

HEADING OUT Finding friluftsliv BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon checks into Switzerland’s fabled Clinique La Prairie SPA TREK Rediscover your youth at Chenot Palace Weggis BODY & SOUL Ocean promises TAKE TEN All about eyes BEAUTY BUZZ Nathalie Eleni’s top tips for effortless summer beauty

CULTURE 51 52 58 59 60 61

62 64

GET A TASTE OF THIS Oysters on the rocks in Cornwall CULTURAL CALENDAR What to see, read and do THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey gets fired up by Afrofuturism ARTIST’S STUDIO Sabina Savage LITTLE GREEN BOOK Fashion Revolution’s influential Orsola de Castro THE CONSERVATIONIST James Wallace issues a clarion call to save our polluted rivers ROAD TEST An EV to fall in love with SCARFES BAR Former health secretary and potential future PM, Jeremy Hunt shares his vision for the NHS

FEATURES 66 74

ALL ABOUT EMMA Sagal Mohammed meets rising star Emma Appleton ON LOCATION Battersea Power Station’s regeneration tale CHILDLIKE WONDER Cavan Mahoney’s Dorset lockdown prompted a change of career

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M A D D OXG A L L E RY.CO M D OW N LOA D O U R A R T I N V E ST M E N T G U I D E

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Contents

JULY AUGUST 2022

FEATURES 79

GOD SAVE THE EARTH How a clutch of creatives are getting down and dirty with regenerative farming AFRICA’S EXISTENTIAL CHOICE The continent is at a critical crossroads – which way it goes will impact the future of the whole world, says Kaddu Sebunya THE CRITICAL CRAFT LIST Traditional lacrosse stick making is dead. Charlotte Metcalf investigates our other endangered crafts LET THERE BE LIGHT Can tech offers us ‘scaleable spirituality’?

THE REGENERATION GUIDE 99

We’re all searching for so much more than just a spa trip. Find it here with our guide to intelligent wellness. Edited by Daisy Finer

INTERIORS

TAKE IT LYING DOWN Lounging around 136 DESIGN NOTES News 138 FOCUS The great outdoors 140 TREND Brighter days 142 CASE STUDY A post-war home regenerated with an artist’s eye 144 ON GOOD FORM Add a sculpture to your green space, advises Randle Siddeley 135

HOTELS & TRAVEL 147 150 153 158

WET & WILD Caiti Grove explores the swamps and saunas of Estonia THE ESCAPIST Travel news BETTER TOGETHER Family breaks SEARCHING FOR EDEN Does Cornwall hold the key to regenerative tourism?

FOOD & DRINK

PLANT POWER Kew Garden’s new recipe anthology celebrates veggies 165 GASTRO GOSSIP Foodie news

163

PROPERTY 167

ON THE COVER Dress, shoes and earrings, Alexander McQueen

TEAM Fashion director: Nicole Smallwood; Art director: Nicola Rose; Photographer: David Reiss; Hair: Ben Cooke; Make-up: Nathalie Eleni; Digital Artist: Megan Dowson

168 172

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH A rolling Herefordshire estate LET’S MOVE TO... Newbury FIVE OF THE BEST Homes for rewilding

REGULARS 16 20 166

EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS STOCKISTS

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Epsom Khaki Suede

BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON

MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879

An unlined Chelsea boot featuring the SUPERFLEX leather sole, our most flexible sole to date.

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and our exhausted minds and bodies. So prepare to feel re-energised, reinvigorated and full of hope that we can make a difference and have an impact, even with the smallest changes. And we’re starting with what lies beneath: soil, without which we’d all be toast. But our soil health is under threat from pollutants, fertilisers, chemicals and over-farming. And while you may not be a subscriber to Farmers Weekly or listen to Farming Today on Radio 4, there is a clutch of cool creatives who are bringing soil’s plight to a wider audience by ditching their day jobs and turning their hand to regenerative – and even biodynamic – farming. Step forward musician Andy Cato and models Mandy Lieu, Poppy Okotcha and Arizona Muse. So if the subject of soil doesn’t excite you, perhaps these people can. Turn to our God Save the Earth feature, starting on page 79. Regenerating the earth means we also need to be match-fit. If we’re racked with anxiety and in flight or fight mode the whole time, how can we ever hope to create the space within ourselves to affect change. Sound familiar? Well, Simon Hampel has made it his mission to help you carve out that internal space through a fusion of consciousness, energy and tech – all via an app. It’s exciting, dynamic and a potential pathway to really meaningful change on a big scale. Read his story on page 94. With over 20 years’ experience, Daisy Finer knows all about the power of transformation through retreats, which is why we charged her with curating our guide to intelligent wellness (from p99). Going so much deeper and further than your traditional magazine spa guides, she’s really nailed the new mood of what it means to retreat – and regenerate. We love a rising star – and you couldn’t find one more shiny than Emma Appleton, and her stand-out performance in the TV version of Dolly Alderton’s Everything I Know About Love. We shot her on location at Battersea Power Station, itself a prime example of urban regeneration (p66). I don’t have enough space here to highlight everything else that I love about this issue, but thank you to everyone who’s made it a joy to work on. Onwards we go.

Editor’s LETTER

ustainability is no longer enough. To sustain me a n s keeping things on the same footing, no worse, no better. But we need to tread a path of better – so welcome to our Regeneration Issue. With the help of some extraordinary contributors, we are taking a good, hard look at ourselves and our planet through the prism of how we can improve our lot and give nourishment to our depleted resources

EDITOR’S PICKS SUBSCRIBE I can’t live without an electric bike and subscription model Swapfiet always ensures I have one fit and ready to go. swapfiets.nl/en

WEAR Summer hols are almost here, which means I can whip out the Zimmermann frills. Hooray. zimmermann. com/uk

TAKE Rosé giving you a headache? Not me, because I pop an LVDY pill an hour before I imbibe. It’s a totally natural hangover solution. lvdy.co.uk

READ It’s not just land that can benefit from rewilding, it’s the sea too. So get your hands on Charles Clover’s latest book

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CON T R I BU TOR S

Africa’s Existential Choice, p86

The Best Job In The World, p82

The Regeneration Guide, p99

Kaddu Sebunya

Jake Fiennes

Daisy Finer

Small changes we can make to be more sustainable? Make sure you understand the connectivity of our planet by taking time to know what, where and who is involved in the production chains of your favourite food, clothes or products. Favourite brand doing good? The Red Cross. They put their full heart and soul into helping even the direst situations. I witnessed this first-hand as I grew up during the Ugandan civil war and we see it on our televisions in Ukraine today. Favourite nature spot? Kidepo Valley National Park in Uganda. It’s one of the last remaining rugged savannah, semi-arid places in Africa. It’s about 600 square miles with 450 bird species – 50 endemic – hundreds of elephants, giraffes, thousands of buffaloes, plus the cultures of the local Karamojong people.

Small changes we can make to be more sustainable? All of us have the ability to contribute, as collectively we make an impact through small changes to our lifestyles that don’t necessarily make significant impacts to our daily lives. Purchasing foodstuffs that aren’t wrapped in packaging, buying products that are seasonal and consuming less meat. And don’t live your life by best-before dates; try to consume all that you purchase –a floppy carrot is best eaten rather than thrown away. Favourite brand doing good work? In my younger days the brand that stood out was The Body Shop, a real leader in ethical environmental sustainable business (thebodyshop.com). It’s great to see more B Corps on our supermarket shelves now. What is fundamentally required is that every business buys into making this planet a better place.

Small changes we can make to be more sustainable? Mindfully buying our food. Small, local producers who honour the land need our support. I love to go to Abbey Farm (theorganicfarmshop.co.uk), just outside Cirencester. The food holds a nutrient dense energy that you just don’t find in supermarkets. Favourite UK nature spot? Woodchester Lake in Gloucestershire where I go wild swimming with ducks and dragonflies. If you go early enough you have the whole place to yourself. Favourite brand doing good work? Pink City Prints, founded by my friend Molly Russell, is a network of block print artisans in Jaipur, India. Its dresses translate from summer to winter beautifully, meaning you get a lot of wear from them. Plus, they generate a lot of joy (pinkcityprints.com).

The Policy Activist, p83

Ben Goldsmith Small changes we can make to be more sustainable? Support one or more environmental groups; be mindful in the way we spend our money each day; and make a point of voting for politicians who take the nature and climate crisis seriously. Favourite UK nature spot? I’m lucky enough to own a slice of land in the Brewham Valley, south Somerset, where we are restoring the landscape to the kind of mosaic wood pasture which once dominated this part of England. Favourite brand doing good work? Patagonia, the maker of cool outdoor clothing, and funder of interesting rewilding around the world. Conservation charity you support? I particularly love the Beaver Trust. Beavers are perhaps the most important tool we have for breathing life back into our landscapes (beavertrust.org).

WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s edit and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter @countryandtown

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LUCY CLELAND EDITOR

EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM SUB EDITOR & FEATURES ASSISTANT TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS SOFIA TINDALL & KATIE BAMBER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT RUBY FEATHERSTONE FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX JUNIOR ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLOTTE RICKARDS, CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY ONLINE ASSISTANT SOPHIE BUCKNALL CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER ROBERT ELDRIDGE FILMMAKER TRACER ITAL ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX ACCOUNT DIRECTORS PANDORA LEWIS, SERENA KNIGHT ACCOUNT MANAGER KATRINA GANE DIGITAL MANAGER ADAM DEAN ADVERTISING OPERATIONS MANAGER JESSICA DAVEY SALES SUPPORT & OFFICE MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL MANAGER LUIGI BOLOGNA TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND B CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, LYDIA GARD, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, LAUREN HO, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, HOLLY RUBENSTEIN, MARCUS SCRIVEN THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/ countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2022 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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COLUMN

The GOOD LIFE

This month, it’s all about health checks, top grub and saying no to phones for Alice B-B The full MOT at Lanserhof at the Arts Club

T’S NEVER TOO LATE… to be the best you can be. Well, that’s the theory behind the top-to-toe health check at Lanserhof at the Arts Club in Mayfair. This is the medical wellness facility where top notch doctors and specialists, with a raft of diagnostic equipment, look after all sorts; from well-lunched Mayfair marauders to Premier League footballers (they come for a once-over before transferring to a new club). The idea is that, whether you need a full-monty overhaul, a little lifestyle tweaking or just fancy safeguarding your future health, this is the place to be. I had blood and muscoskeletal tests, ultrasounds, and my walking and running gait analysed. The upshot – I need to eat less butter and cheese (my cholesterol is a little high – I blame being a quarter French!). And I need to specifically train my ‘unstable pelvis’. Because it’s not too late to avoid a hip replacement. I FEEL SAD… for the restaurants that came a cropper over the last two years. But the enforced cull means a total freshener of the restaurant scene. Over the last month I’ve scoffed good pub food at The Princess Royal in Notting Hill: mysterious dark corners for clandestine meetings, Jinny Blom-designed garden for sunny soirées and a few charming bedrooms upstairs because… you never know. Then to Grosvenor Square for a phenomenally delicious dinner at The Twenty Two: a new hotel, restaurant, members’ club filled with BYTs and whispers that ‘Madonna was here last night’. I can’t stop dreaming about the crab salad made with an entire head of lettuce, a melting steak béarnaise (with a sneaky side of cacio e pepe – because, why not?) and a rascal of a crème brulée. I also went to Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Jamavar – an old friend that has weathered the recent storms. I tipped up for the annual, monthlong ‘Alfonso Mango Celebration’; an homage to the most intensely flavoured variety, which appeared all over the menu from chutney to lassi to curry and finally, the naughtiest little burnt mango tart. I left joyously stuffed and with a booking for next year. ALWAYS ONE STEP AHEAD… My friend Amazing Amy, who gave a magical party for her birthday and asked that all phones be left at home or with a ‘phone minder’ on the night. Genius. No cutting short great conversation for a selfie, speeches without a sea of black rectangles held aloft and dancing with the reckless abandon only possible without fear of it being filmed and sliding onto social media. And yes – there’s a gaping gap in my photo album chronicling one of the best parties of my life – but the memories are (sort of) all there. My memories – not my iPhone’s version. Phonefree is the future. n

THIS MONTH I’LL BE...

GETTING sweaty in Ayda Field’s ace new workout gear (shopayda.com). GAZING in wonder at this wooden e-bike (coco-matbike.uk). SAMPLING (via my pup) the new Caboodle dog food – everything a pooch needs for a day all in one nifty box (caboodle.dog).

ILLUSTRATION BY MEI MEI, @MEIMEI_2503

‘Whether you need a FULLMONTY overhaul... or just fancy SAFEGUARDING your future HEALTH, this is the PLACE to be’

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INTERVIEW

The RURBANIST

Raymond Blanc on slowing down, eating with the seasons and cooking for the Queen Mother

What’s bugging you most right now? I have lost my

glasses! This happens far too often and I have had to buy many pairs. Whose mind do you wish you could change?

My own sometimes. My heart says yes, but my mind (and my team) all say no! What do you wish your parents had taught you?

My parents taught me so much. Growing up, I worked with my father in the garden – we grew vegetables and fruit. We would take the food we grew to my mother who would work her magic. My childhood furnished me with my work ethic, and my understanding of the importance of the seasons. One tip to save the world? Slow down. When we were in the midst of Covid, we all learned to stop and slow down. The fast world we lived in was in slow motion, but it has quickly sped up again. We need to take time and reconnect more with seasonality and the provenance and authenticity of food. The best thing about country life is… I love living in the Oxfordshire countryside – it is truly beautiful and Le Manoir is in a perfect location as we are also not far from the historic city of Oxford. What’s the best way to put a smile on your face? Raymond Blanc in the garden of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, the hotel and two-Michelin-starred restaurant he started in 1984

RAYMOND LOVES SCENT Walking through the gardens when the lavender is out. SONG Anything by the Rolling Stones. DISH Comté cheese and fresh bread. RESTAURANT My own! Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, of course. HOLIDAY The South of France.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK

I love seeing my guests experience what we offer here at Le Manoir, especially seeing the children exploring the gardens and then enjoying their food. The pet you most loved… The most beautiful, calmnatured weimaraner called Earl Grey – he would sit proudly in front of the flower house, gracefully watching over our guests as they enjoyed the gardens. The book you wished you’d written? A book that stole my heart was Edouard de Pomiane’s Cooking in Ten Minutes. He was a romantic writer with an extraordinarily prescient understanding of how modernity would take away the greatest pleasures of life – time and family. Your greatest triumph? Cooking for the Queen Mother. She would visit us often, and come into the kitchen to watch us. One day, I convinced her to sing the French national anthem in a room full of English people – I will never forget that! Your epitaph would read... Never give up and keep life simple.

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THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING

Woven in heavy duty pure new wool tweed in an authentic Donegal flecked melange yarn produced by Magee of Ireland, this exclusive overshirt jacket demonstrates the commitment to quality materials and deft craftsmanship that are the hallmarks of our new Autumn/Winter range. Available in over nine different stunning cloths from mills around Great Britain and Ireland, they reflect everything from the rolling, heather-swept hills to the majestic craggy mountains of the Scottish landscape. This versatile creation features mock horn branded buttons and a scooped back hem for an improved shape. Paired here with a 2-in-1 reversible suede/ leather tie belt, this is just one of the many original designs that make our new season collection truly extra-special.

MAGEE TWEED OVERSHIRT TN07410 | £139.95 2-IN-1 SUEDE/LEATHER TIE BELT TC22302 | £34.95 (Available in 8 colours)

To order call 01796 483 236 or visit our website

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THG PARIS SHOWROOM

With a library of samples available to loan and staff trained to specialise in our products the London Showroom is the perfect place to begin specifying your projects.

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PRESENTS

QIPCO KING GEORGE DIAMOND WEEKEND

Friday 22nd – Saturday 23rd July 2022 The QIPCO King George Diamond Weekend showcases a sparkling cocktail of style, socialising and exceptional racing. The headline act, the King George VI and Queen Elizabeth QIPCO Stakes is Europe’s indisputable midsummer middle-distance showpiece and the weekend closes with live music at sunset.

Tickets from £19 Fine Dining from £269+VAT

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STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy

Sun DAZE

Breeze through the summer months in crisp white cotton Made from a blend of organic hemp and cotton, Kalita’s Valkyrie gown has a billowing silhouette and dramatic balloon sleeves – ideal for making a sundrenched statement. It’s manufactured in small batches, using low impact materials and dyes, and designed to be worn summer after summer. £560, kalita.co

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STYLE | Shopping

The

EDIT Mariella Tandy has all the news and names to know for a stylish summer

ESSENCES OF SUMMER Toners and tonics for an effortless glow

This year, swimwear brand Heidi Klein celebrates 20 years of stylish resort and swimwear. Loved for its luxe fabrics and impeccable fit, this is swimwear that really goes the distance and is built to last. The Core collection includes this sizzling Ithaca Core racerback onepiece, £240. heidiklein.com

DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE

1 Rose Inc Skin Resolution Clarifying Toner. £25, roseinc.com 2 Royal Fern Photoactive Skin Perfecting Essence. £75, net-a-porter.com 3 Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate. £87, aesop.com

DO THE TWO STEP

Dr Sebagh’s two-step skin prep kit is a tried-and-tested ritual for flawless skin enabling you to apply your make-up like a pro. The deep exfoliating mask clears away dead skin and impurities and the second step, the skin perfecting mask, clarifies and evens out skin tone. When bought together you save £39 and get a free travel bag to boot. £65 for both, drsebagh.com

Smythsons’s playful new notebooks are inspired by Lewis Carroll’s tales of Alice in Wonderland. Let your imagination soar. £100, smythson.com

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DRESS FOR SUCCESS

Reformation Nashville linen shorts, £80, netaporter.com

Giuliva Heritage Bodysuit, £380. collagerie.com

SEP Jordan is a social enterprise project and fashion brand that works with refugee artists and craftswomen to create beautiful, timeless clothes, accessories and homeware. It was first set up set up in the Jerash ‘Gaza’ refugee camp in Jordan in 2013 and creates sustainable paths to economic independence for women and their families. Dress, £238. sepjordan.eu

Frankie Shop Gelso vest, £195 netaporter.com Wiggy Kit Gaucho top, £225; Gaucho skirt, £355. wiggykit.com

ON THE RADAR

Simple summer style

Ferragamo Studio bag, £1,970. ferragamo.com

Neous Cher flatforms, £550. matchesfashion.com

WORKING 90-5

Goldsign The Peg high rise jeans, £340. harrods.com

Ninety Percent’s new ‘everyday uniform’ is designed to work for the office and beyond. The sevenpiece capsule collection features classic utility pieces including organic cotton coats and cami dresses, poplin skirts and puff-sleeve tops. Each piece is designed with longevity in mind, and intended to be worn every day, season after season. From £25, ninetypercent.com July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 33

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STYLE | Trend

TUSTING Mini Cardington bag, £310

OLIVIA ROSE THE LABEL Esmeralda top, £300

SAYWOOD STUDIO Etta shirtdress, £270

COSSIE & CO Emily swimsuit, £140

BY MEGAN CROSBY Posie blouse, £95

Small Is BEAUTIFUL Small-batch brands are the way forward for a better planet, says Mariella Tandy

EVARAE Marais Dress, £380

LONDON VELVET The Beach Bag, £200

PHOEBE GRACE AT GENEROUS APE Gem dress, £275

AURELIA & PIERRE Citrine and diamond cocktail ring, £1,825

PENELOPE CHILVERS Horsebit clogs, £159

VALLE & VIK Audrey trousers, £195, and Revenge top, £215

FOR STOCKISTS PLEASE SEE P166

LYLIE Tofo coral studs in 9ct yellow gold with peridots, £600

MEDINA With small runs and core styles produced on demand, Medina’s swimsuits and bikinis are made from recycled fishing nets, designed to last, and intended to have as minimal effect on the environment as possible. Volley swimsuit, £260. medinaswimwear.com

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STYLE | Jewellery

COLOUR MAGIC

Piaget’s playful Possession collection gets updated this season with on-trend colourful stones, including sapphires, emeralds, carnelians and turquoise. piaget.com

THE GREAT ESCAPE

Piaget Possession single earring in 18ct rose gold, emeralds and a diamond, £6,250

The Magpie

Majestic Escapes is the exquisite new collection from Harry Winston and has been designed to transport fine jewellery connoisseurs to some of the most magnificent locations in the world. These jewels celebrate the unique energy of each location, from the azure Amalfi Coast to idyllic Santorini. This St Barth’s necklace is made from indicolite tourmaline, blue paraiba, green paraiba, mint tourmaline, green tourmaline and diamonds. The pear-shaped stones float in their settings and evoke the crystal-blue waters of the island. £POA, harrywinston.com

Summer jewellery bursting with colour and fun. By Mariella Tandy

EAR PARTY

TIME TO RENEW

Inspired by the Ancient Egyptian cult at Busiris, which worshipped the god Osiris, this delicate necklace symbolises regeneration and rebirth, both things he represented. In 18ct gold plate, its sparkling emerald-green zircons symbolise the god’s green skin. £245.18, cleopatrasbling.com

Get your lobes ready to sizzle

MORE IS MORE

Love to layer? More Jewellery Please is a 17-piece capsule collection co-designed by jewellers Roxanne First and Marianne Theodorsen. The beaded necklaces, charms and tennis bracelets are a must for anyone who loves to stack their gems. Necklaces from £385, roxannefirst.com

1 Auree Rowfant Rainbow charity hoop earrings. £95, aureejewellery.com 2 Kiki McDonough Blue topaz detachable mosaic charm drops. From £1,200, kiki.co.uk 3 Susan Caplan Vintage hoop enamel earrings. £38, susancaplan.co.uk

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THE STAY NEUTRAL ilan.pdf

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CMY

THE STAY WAREHOUSE

@bebekhotelbythestay

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@thestaybosphorus

@thestaynisantasi

@thestayboulevardnisantasi

@thestayalacati

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STYLE | Men’s

LE SHEEP, C’EST CHIC!

TIME FOR CHANGE

Vilebrequin has teamed up with The Woolmark Company to create a stylish and sustainable capsule of board shorts made from – amazingly – merino wool. From £170, vilebrequin.com

Well Groomed

Norfolk brand Whale of A Time is inspired by coastal lifestyle and prides itself in making vibrant casualwear from sustainable, locally sourced materials. whaleofatime clothing.com

FUN IN THE SUN

As the temperatures rise, dial up the style

Matt Thomas has your summer style sorted

OYSTER CATCHER

Oris’s New York Harbour Limited Edition diver’s watch raises funds for the Billion Oysters Project in NYC, working to restore the city’s oyster population. By 2035, the BOP wants to see one billion oysters in the harbour of the Big Apple. £1,850, oris.ch

SIZE MATTERS

Mr Porter is launching its second Small World collection, showcasing a curation of 22 global brands who share a commitment to craftsmanship and responsible style. mrporter.com

CARRY ON GROOMING

1 KIN REVERE Revere ecovero shirt. £40, johnlewis.com

Get set for summer travels

2 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Sunglasses. £165, viviennewestwood.com Rolling Shires Summer candle. £45, ruth mastenbroek. com

Grüum Orange and lavender shave bar. £8, gruum.com

Bolin Webb Silicone washbag. £90, bolinwebb.com

3 LOVE BRAND X ABERCROMBIE & KENT Staniel swim shorts. £120, lovebrand.com Comme des Garcons Zero eau de parfum. £120, selfridges.com

4 CHURCH’S Hove sandals. £850, church-footwear.com

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A Tradition of Safari since 1812. Explore our artisanal leather goods and outdoor clothing collections.

westleyrichards.com

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STYLE | Q&A something that makes me feel confident and comfortable – if you want to master the room you can’t be worrying about whether your shirt is riding up. What outfit makes you feel like you can conquer the world? I think

it’s key to have a strong coat that you can throw on over any outfit – it speaks volumes. Have recent events made you think about the way you shop? Absolutely! I’ve become

MY STYLE

Paper’s Philippa Thackeray on dopamine dressing and shopping responsibly

more mindful about my purchases and only choose items that make me feel amazing. We are all aware of the terrible events happening in the world today and I have definitely seen a rise in the ‘dopamine dressing’ trend. I believe it’s here to stay; there is no better feeling than the rush of confidence you get from putting on a perfect-fitting outfit. How can we all shop more responsibly? I consider the

garment’s life cycle before making a decision to purchase it. What’s it made of? Is it wellmade? Does it fit properly? Where is it made? Another great way to shop responsibly is by renting rather than buying, especially if it’s for a special occasion, when it is likely that the item will only be worn once. How should the fashion industry be changing with the times? It’s predicted that by 2050 there

of a Mexican sunset – it was designed during lockdown and was meant to signify hope for the future and the world opening up. We did actually get to shoot it there, which was dreamy. The Porto Dress in Magenta Me is a killer piece for summer.

will be more plastic in the sea than fish, and the fashion industry has a huge part to play in this. We can’t live without plastic so we need to be smart about living with it and reusing what we already have. The fashion industry needs to be moving towards a circular economy where old products become new products. What do you wear to workout? I am a big fan of LNDR. Nothing beats its leggings – they are super soft and super comfortable, but also suck you in a treat without creating any unsightly bulges.

And what can we expect to see for autumn? A heavy focus on knitwear –

Where are you going on holiday and what will you be packing? We are off to Nantucket with friends in August

Carolyn BessetteKennedy

lots of two-piece knit outfits in bold, brightly coloured prints made from super-soft recycled merino wool with matching hats and scarves. We’ve also produced a range of denim dresses and skirts from deadstock that aims to take you from season to season. Whose style do you really admire?

I am totally obsessed with the 90s at the moment, so the singer Sade is my muse currently, but I also love Carolyn BessetteKennedy’s style. What is your daily uniform?

I don’t really have one, it very much depends on my mood. My only mantra is to wear

and I’ll be taking the Paper Martha dress in white cotton, the black Coconut swimsuit, which works with a pair of shorts or a denim skirt and still looks super chic; and my statement broderie anglaise 15 Dress in Find Me Under the Palms. paperlondon.com n

1 Paper Martha dress in You Had Me At Aloha, £295. paperlondon.com 2 Paper Coconut swimsuit, £195. paperlondon.com 3 Prada corduroy coat, £2,800. matchesfashion.com 4 LNDR Limitless leggings, £98. lndr.com 5 Paper Porto dress in Magenta Me, £425. paperlondon.com 6 DeMellier New York bag, £495. demellierlondon.com 7 The Row knot sandal, £950. therow.com

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

What was the inspiration behind Paper’s summer ’22 collection? It’s inspired by the pastel and sorbet colours

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Waves www.baobabcollection.com

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Bronze and glow.

Glow

Bronze

Shimmer

Pick up your prescription for the ultimate summer glow-up, from world renowned cosmetic doctor and treatment pioneer, Dr Sebagh. This powerhouse trio of radiance-boosting heroes will leave your skin gleaming and golden—without the sun—whilst delivering serious ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ skin care benefits.

Bespoke your sun-kissed glow with the award-winning SelfTanning Drops, with fractionated melanin to help shield skin against the damaging effects of (digital) HEV light. Add a few drops to any moisturiser, serum or body lotion, for a natural-looking colour that develops over a few hours and lasts 2–3 days.

Lightweight yet luxuriously nourishing, Luminous Glow Cream makes the perfect, oil-free summer moisturiser with an added, glow-getting advantage. Pearlescent pigments catch the light, instantly giving skin a dewy, ‘lit-from-within’ look. Use it as an illuminating primer, too, or mix with foundation, for summer-sheer coverage and the freshest finish.

The finishing touch, Shimmering Body Oil leaves skin soothed, nourished and hydrated, from top to toe, with a hint of glistening gold. A unique blend of two, carefully chosen types of nacre (mother-of-pearl) make it suitable for all skin tones.

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Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

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HEALTH&

WELLBEING Heading Out Embrace freedom, fresh air and a life well lived this summer

PHOTO: © CAMILLA HEWITT

Friluftsliv is the Norwegian philosophy that life is best lived outdoors. An amalgamation of its words for free, air and life, the term embodies the ethos that the simplest pursuit of wellbeing is spending time in nature. Whether it’s cycling, kayaking or walking quietly in the woods, open air living can bring both a sense of accomplishment and a sense of calm. One the best ways to experience it is with 62°Nord – read more on p47. 62.no

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Lifestyle Turning back the years at Clinique La Prairie in Switzerland

MIND & MATTER

Life’s little luxuries

BODY LANGUAGE

Olivia Falcon gets ten-star service at the famed Clinique La Prairie

t was when my daughter went in for a hug, affectionately kneaded two love handles, and whispered ‘squishy’ in my ear, that I knew I needed to hand this problem over to the professionals. And so to Switzerland, the land of structure, science and ten-star service – all of which is perfectly distilled at Clinique La Prairie. People come here for the medical centre with its 55 doctors and 25 specialists, and of course the world famous immune-boosting Rejuvenation Programme, which is known as the key to longevity. Our own Queen Mother (who lived until 101) was said to have been a fan. Given my cortisol-charged lifestyle, a fondness for ‘relaxing’ with a glass of wine and very unmindful eating routine, a week-long master detox is suggested. Day one. I am analysed with blood tests, an OligoScan that measures heavy metals and mineral deficiencies, and epigenetic tests to see lacto and gluten intolerances. I discuss a vegan elimination diet (no alcohol, dairy, caffeine, or sugar) with Elissa the nutritionist. It doesn’t initially sound much fun, but the reality is surprising. The chef reintroduces me to the delights of vegetables and fibre through beautiful and elaborate origami-styled dishes. I have personal training sessions, stretching with aerial yoga classes where I am suspended from the ceiling in a hammock (much kinder on ageing joints) and fascinating nutrition classes that provide a handy blueprint for life back home. I learn

bloating is a sign of undernourishment and the safest cookware that won’t leach toxins is made of ceramic, glass, cast iron and stainless steel. My education is punctuated with spa treatments, and I dip into the Advanced Aesthetic Beauty programme. It’s a regime of non-invasive technologies that promises to leave me radiant, toned, and younger-looking, with effects lasting up to two years. I try a Detoxifying Facial using the clinic’s own Swiss Perfection brand that buoys slack skin with stem cells extracted from irises, and I gently stew between an infra-therapy dome and a mattress that heats up my core temperature to release heavy metals, improve circulation and relieve muscle tension – my lower back never felt more limber. I also get pummeled with the new Selenia machine that uses LED lights, radio frequency skin tightening and a powerful vacuum to improve the look of cellulite. Two months on and long-term changes are afoot. I am sleeping better, eating more mindfully and, judging by the lack of bloat, am sure my organs are relieved. Although the aim of this detox was an internal spring clean, I can see the whites of my eyes look brighter, my skin is clearer and I feel mentally stronger. My daughter even announces I look younger. This is the place to come and put ageing in reverse. The Master Detox programme is from £14,142, SundaySaturday. clinique lapraire.com n

SCENT A love letter to Los Angeles by night, this will be your scent of summer with its delicious citrusy notes of lime, blood orange and bergamot. Louis Vuitton City of Stars eau de parfum, £215. louisvuitton.com

SCULPT A lymphatic drainage massage sculpts and tones flesh and reduces water retention in the body. This cream works in much the same way on lymphatic channels on the face to purify skin, depuff eye bags and tone those jowls. It really works. Iräye The Cream with Lymphactive Complex, £105. irayeskincare.com SPRITZ A brilliant leavein conditioner that shields hair from damaging UV rays and hot styling tools, and preventing hair loss. Windle Lab Invisible Day & Night Spray, £18. windle london.com

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Because you give your dreams the love you deserve. Experience now the drēmər® bed at your nearest Hästens store. HASTENS.COM

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness Give your batteries a boost at this stellar spa on the shore of Lake Lucerne

SPA Trek

Rediscover your joie de vivre at Chenot Palace Weggis, a powerhouse of a preventative health spa, says Lucy Cleland

‘B

eing here... it’s like when you have a virus as a child,’ smiles Dr George Gaitanos, in his soft Greek lilt, as we sit sipping lemongrass tisane and stare out at a mesmeric Lake Lucerne. The 64-year-old COO of Chenot International, the parent company whose rippling, softly interiored, pumping heart is detox mecca Chenot Palace Weggis, is not entirely joking. While seemingly nothing could make you forget a nasty bout of the flu – or a pandemic, come to that – faster than being enveloped in the swirling (I swear everything from carpets and lamps to vases and bucket chairs has undulating lines), ‘high-touch/high-tech’ environment of this stellar spa, it’s the emulation of a mother tending to her sick child with comfort, rest, the right food and kindness (the staff radiate it) that underpins the ambition of Gaitanos, who wants no less than for Chenot to be the absolute ‘leader in wellness’. This ambition was ignited by the visionary work of Henri Chenot, who created his original Chenot Method at Palace Merano in Italy back in 1980. The move to Chenot Palace Weggis afforded both men the opportunity to reinvigorate their offering, and although Henri died in December 2020, he did get to see six months of their work in operation – Weggis opened in June of that year. Gaitanos credits Chenot’s ‘foresight all those years ago to fuse an Eastern and Western approach to healing through detoxification’. This translates into your experience here being a blend of treatments based on Traditional Chinese Medicine (think cupping, acupuncture and meridian line massage, which he tells me with a wry smile, ‘other spas try to emulate the technique of but can’t’), combined with science-based ones using super high-tech machines, and the daily toxindispelling hydrotherapy regime (detox bath with salts and herbs, mud wrap for sweating and a rigorous cold hose-down). This triple-pronged approach is calibrated down to the tiniest detail to help you

make the most of your stay. Even the food (exquisite) is so finely balanced and contrived as to provide you with every necessary nutrient, fat, protein and carbohydrate measured down to the last kilojoule. Weggis has doubled down on the tech and science (some machines costing northwards of $100,000). The options are mind-boggling – you can chill in the cryochamber (great for inflammation and pain reduction); reclaim your joie de vivre as you pound the antigravity treadmill with the freedom of your teenage years (think Chariots of Fire euphoria); and up your body’s efficient use of oxygen by exercising in an altitude room. You can even get your biological age checked by analysing the activity of specific genes – which will give you a glimpse at your future health trajectory, with time to intervene. Your timetable quickly becomes busy, busy, busy… Luckily then, it’s just as lovely to retreat to your cocooning room (plentifully spacious) to read a book, rest or just stare out of the window; or if you do have a free afternoon, it’s definitely worth taking to the plein air – a chilly dip in Lake Lucerne awaits, as do some stunning hikes. What Weggis does not do – and Gaitanos is clear about this – is cure you from chronic illness or acute stress. For such afflictions, he recommends a more medically focused spa. Weggis, he says, is more about prevention and education. ‘We don’t call it our lifespan anymore, we call it our healthspan.’ This resonates deeply; how we eat, exercise, deal with our stress and addictions will have an impact on our health outcome, however good our genes are. A week at Weggis then will help us understand how we can influence that, and give us a chance to reset and charge up our batteries, ready to ‘not just be observers of our health but participants in it’. BOOK IT: From approx. £6,750pp for a seven-night minimum stay, including one of the extensive Chenot wellness programmes. chenotpalaceweggis.com

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Wellness | HEALTH & WELLBEING

Body & SOUL

You don’t have to be a wild swimmer to reap the benefits of the sea this summer. By Camilla Hewitt

SKIN DEEP

Marine organisms, kelp and algae living in extreme ocean environments developed survival properties to protect themselves against UV radiation, pollution and physical damage. Sounds 1 compelling? One Ocean Beauty responsibly sources marine ingredients for its skincare formulas, and its Ultra Hydrating Algae Oil is rich in Omega-9 Oleic acid, which works to repair the skin’s natural barrier and reduce UV damage. £59, netaporter.com

SUPPLEMENT WITH SEAWEED

PHOTO: SEA HERBS BY KIM LIGHTBODY

Eighty per cent of seaweed is made up of essential minerals, vitamins and other bioactive compounds. It’s also known for its high iodine content, which helps regulate hormone production by balancing thyroid activity, which can result in better sleep and digestion, and more energy. Seaweed additionally supports the maintenance of healthy skin and is one of the few plant sources of vitamin B12, a key nutrient to support blood and nerve cells. Organic brand Voya has includes seaweed’s beneficial properties in its supplement range Sea Ór. From £35, voya.ie

3 4

BATHE IN THE BENEFITS

Seed to Skin combines raw ingredients with advanced molecular science (all its skincare is made in the brand’s state-of-the-art laboratory at Borgo Santo Pietro, Tuscany). Rich in magnesium, minerals and fatty acids, The Retreat bath salt is formulated with raw Sicilian sea salt and marine algae to nourish and detoxify your skin. £75, liberty.com

ON THE SEA SHORE

We have an abundance of edible marine plants in the UK that can contribute hugely to our intake of essential minerals. Emily Scott, author of Sea & Shore (Hardie Grant, £26) tells us, ‘As the earth around me slowly wakes from the long Cornish winter, sea herbs appear, familiar and comforting. My favourites are sea purslane, rock samphire and sea beets – beautiful, delicious and rich in vitamins and minerals.’

« CHECK IN: 62° NORD, NORWAY Luxury boutique hotel collective 62°Nord designs its travel adventures around the fjords of Norway – deep corridors of sea framed by monumental mountains. From kayaking to majestic waterfalls to cycling the coastline, this is a chance to marvel at the uniqueness of the Norwegian landscape. Whether you spend your days in the comfort of one of 62°Nord’s stylish, low-key hideaways or exploring the contours of the Sunnmøre Alps, you will appreciate that, as the brand so eloquently puts it, our luxury is nature. BOOK IT: From approx. £212 for two people sharing a Standard Sea View room at Hotel Brosundet, B&B. 62.no

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Take Ten

EYES ON THE PRIZE

Brighten, restore or disguise the delicate eye area with these clever treatments, says Nathalie Eleni

CurrentBody Skin LED Eye Perfector A high-tech eye treatment that helps treat fine lines and wrinkles with four powerful LED wavelengths. £199, currentbody.com

Trinny London BFF Eye Concealer This clever serumconcealer gives effective under-eye coverage and a hint of tint to visibly improve dark circles. £26, trinnylondon.com

Brulée Beauty concealers Developed by makeup artist, Fizah Pasha, this collection of five richly pigmented and smoothing concealers was created specifically for golden undertone complexions. £27, bruleebeauty.com

Inlight Beauty Under Eye Revive Certified organic, this decongesting eye balm has camu-camu, gotu kola, green tea and green coffee to plump, firm and restore the delicate under-eye area. £59, inlightbeauty.co.uk Nurse Jamie Super-Cryo Mini Massaging Orb Pop this nifty gadget in your fridge for 30-60 mins, and then roll the magic ball around your eye, brow and cheek areas, to depuff and soothe. £14, cultbeauty.co.uk

111 Skin Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask An overnight facial for your eye area, this mask delivers the key ingredients of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid directly to the skin for a plumped and refreshed result. £28, 111skin.co.uk Monu Eye Cool Gel A refreshing gel blended with arnica, vitamin C, sodium hyaluronate and ginseng to tighten and reduce puffiness. £32.50, monushop.co.uk

Cell Shock 360° Anti-Wrinkle Eye Zone Serum Hydrating, brightening and rejuvenating, this luxurious serum works to counter visible signs of stress and fatigue. £179, swisslinecosmetics.co.uk

Skin Doctors Instant Eyelift serum A magic eyelifting serum to helps to temporarily smooth fine lines and reduce puffiness in just a couple of minutes. £25.99, lookfantastic.com

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

Inika Organic Phytofuse Renew Eye Cream This lightweight cream combines collagenboosting, antioxidant reservatrol and vitamin E-rich grapeseed oil to help support the skin’s natural elasticity and add hydration. £45, inikaorganic.com

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News | HEALTH & WELLBEING

Beauty BUZZ Nathalie Eleni’s expert tips for effortless summer beauty

GET ACTIVE

A genius way to maximise your skincare. Reduit Boost is a smart device that works with your existing beauty regime to deliver the ingredients exactly where they need to go. Boost scans the barcode of your skincare products to identify its active ingredients; it then uses its clever technology to push the right actives into your skin at the right depth for you, to maximise their results. £179, reduit.com

ROLL ON, ROLL OFF

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

ANCHORS AWAY

There’s a new way to see the Med – from the comfort of a luxurious cabin on a Royal Caribbean cruise. Even better, many ships now include a luxurious Vitality Spa, so even at sea you’re only ever a few steps from a restorative massage, or a rejuvenating facial. From £770pp for a sevennight western Mediterranean cruise departing from Rome on the 29th September 2022. royalcaribbean.com

Once applied to your pulse points, e11even’s signature Fragrance Oil – co-created by friends Cat Deeley and make-up artist Amanda Grossman – opens with fresh top notes of rose and geranium, with a sparkling citrus burst, before warming down to earthy patchouli woods, and finishing with an almost ethereal veil of amber undertones. £80, e11evenfragrance.com

LIP SMACKING

This solid serum for your lips beautifully bridges the gap between a lip balm and a lip tint – aka just what you need for a low-key beauty look in the hot summer months. It’s enriched with cannabis sativa seed oil, which contains Omegas 3 and 6 to relieve skin inflammation and meadowfoam seed oil, which contains powerful antioxidants such as vitamins C and E to protect lips from pollution and sun damage. £22, sannbeauty.com

HOW TO… PREVENT HAIR LOSS ADVICE FROM C&TH’S BEAUTY DIRECTOR

Stress, hormones, medication and genetics are all factors in hair loss for both men and women. For an instant fix, apply Toppik Hair Building Fibers to thinning areas (£6.95, boots.com). Biotin is a key supplement to help with hair health, so top up your daily intake with a Biotin Brilliance supplement, expertly formulated to encourage growth (£24, simonethomaswellness.com). For a more permanent solution, world-leading hair transplant surgeon, Dr Manish Mittal, uses a specialised Follicular Unit Transplant technique that involves extracting individual hair follicles and implanting them in affected areas. Results can be seen from 6-12 months. From £3,995, mittalhairclinic.com July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 49

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ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS

97 x 65 cm. Priced at £420 each (inc. UK sales tax).

Private commissions are also welcome.

@pullmaneditionsposters

View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com Pullman Editions.indd 1

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CULTURE Get a TASTE of this

PHOTO: SEA CREATURE SHOW AT ROCK OYSTER FESTIVAL © JON ROWLEY

It’s hard to say who is more famous in the line-up for Cornwall’s Rock Oyster Festival: the chefs or the musicians. But with a menu offering up Laura Mvula and the Happy Mondays, accompanied by masterclasses from the likes of Rick Stein and Rosemary Shrager, what’s not to love? 29-31 July, rockoysterfestival.co.uk

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CULTURE | What’s On

THE CULTURAL CALENDAR

You won’t want to miss these sensational summer events, says Tessa Dunthorne

STAR-STUDDED BALLET HANS IN THE AIR

Celebrate legendary composer Hans Zimmer’s best works in the astonishing grounds of the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. Allow a talented string quartet to transport you from The Lion King to The Pirates of the Caribbean – all lit by enchanting candlelight. Various dates until 28 July. feverup.com

Spend an evening watching some of the best ballet dancers from across the world – including principals from the National Ballet of Ukraine – in the beautiful gardens of Hatch House in Wiltshire. World-class performances plus a slap-up three-course meal? You’ll leave feeling starry-eyed. 22-24 July. conventgardendance.co.uk

SCAVENGER HUNT

Somerset House’s new exhibition with TOAST explores ideas around repair, care and healing. Feel free to bring any clothes that need a fix, too, for their mending workshop. Until 25 September. somersethouse.org.uk

You’re in for a sugar rush at Kew this summer with Australian artist Tanya Schultz’s debut London exhibition, featuring a technicolour selection of sweets strung up all around the Shirely Sherwood Gallery of Botanical Art. Discover themes of consumption and abundance – and try not to get hungry. Until 2023. kew.org

BARD IN THE YARD

See Cambridge College Gardens transformed into Verona, Athens, Padua and more, for the annual open-air Shakespeare festival. Bring a picnic, and catch a selection of classics for the festival’s 35th year. 11 July to 31 Aug. cambridgeshakespeare.com

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PHOTOS: © OLIVER ROSSER/FEAST CREATIVE

REDUCE REUSE RECYCLE

CANDY CRUSH

PHOTOS: © SIGNE RODERIK; © JACK BALL

Featuring works constructed from scavenged materials, American sculptor Victoria Overton’s first solo UK exhibition takes recycling to extremes. How? Her installation won’t go to waste when it comes to an end; the artist plans to break it down for further use. This work explores how the old can be made new once more. Until 31 July. goldsmithscca.art

The Critical LIST

Big releases for summer

Reese Witherspoon has an eye for books that will make great films. Her latest is an adaptation of Delia Owens’ bestselling novel, Where The Crawdads Sing, starring Normal People’s Daisy Edgar-Jones as marsh girl Kya. Out 22 July

FILM

THE C&TH GUIDE TO THE…

EDINBURGH FRINGE

One of largest outdoor theatres in Britain, a trip to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre is always a treat – particularly when there’s a musical adaptation of Dodi Smith’s classic 101 Dalmatians on offer. Until 28 Aug. openairtheatre.com

The world’s largest arts festival comes to the Scottish capital from 5-29 August

E PHOTOS: © OLIVER ROSSER/FEAST CREATIVE

PHOTOS: © SIGNE RODERIK; © JACK BALL

very August the world flocks to Edinburgh to watch, perform and wander the dreamy streets of the Scottish capital. There’s an incredible volume and variety of shows to discover, but to cut through the noise, here’s everything you need to know. WATCH... Anything from Apollo-headliners to university cabaret troupes. For the thesps, perhaps Beckett satire ‘Godot is a Woman’ will appeal, or maybe ‘Unfortunate’, a sassy lampoon of the Little Mermaid à la Wicked. Of course, the Fringe is probably best known for its comedy: you’d be remiss to miss the big names like the ever-funny Ed Gamble and Tim Vine. But the real joy of the Fringe aren’t the big tickets, rather the up-and-comers – ones to watch include Horatio Gould and Lara Ricote. Look further and be sure to seek out the weird and wonderful acts, such as beatboxingsurrealist-comedy-duo Two Mouthed Men. Who knows, they might be the next big thing.

STAY... Don’t worry too much – a number of hotels are still taking bookings. For the cosmopolitan traveller, The Balmoral and its beloved clock by Waverley Station will strike a chord with you (roccofortehotels.com), or for a stylish family-run boutique stay look no further than the Dunstane Houses (thedunstane.com). Or why not try the latest

THEATRE

opening, the Gleneagles Townhouse (gleneagles.com), in St Andrew Square? EAT... Book a table at Wedgwood the Restaurant, which offers a speedy set menu to satiate EdFringers between shows and exploration, featuring a constantly changing selection of Scottish game (August is grouse season, after all) and locally foraged ingredients (wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk). For dinner, The Heron offers relaxed fine dining with views of Edinburgh’s picturesque Water of Leith (heron.scot). Tomas Gormley and Sam Yorke are the duo behind this new opening and it’s already received rave reviews for its masterclass in how to use Scotland’s seasonal produce (not to mention heritage breed meat). edfringe.com

Taron Egerton stars in gritty new thriller Black Bird, which follows Jimmy Keene, a convicted drug dealer who is tasked with befriending a suspected serial killer to reduce his own sentence. Out now. tv.apple.com

If you devoured Taylor Jenkins Reid’s Daisy Jones & The Six, you’re in luck. She’s returned with a new page-turner, Carrie Soto Is Back, which tells the story of a star tennis player attempting a comeback. Out 30 August (Hutchinson, £16.99)

BOOK

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CULTURE | What’s On

PREVIEW

Don’t miss Emilia Clarke in The Seagull – but don’t come for a dragon, says Ellie Smith

amie Lloyd’s interpretation of Chekhov’s 1986 masterpiece The Seagull was in the middle of West End previews when the first lockdown hit. Two years on, it’s been resurrected – with a largely unchanged cast spearheaded by Game of Thrones’ star Emilia Clarke. The play was adapted by British playwright Anya Reiss, whose version was first shown at Southwark Playhouse in 2012, starring Lily James. Emilia will be swapping dragon riding for the role of Nina, a young actress hungry for fame. She’s joined on stage by Tom Rhys Harries – who starred in Netflix’s White Lines – alongside Daniel Monks, Sophie Wu and Indira Varma, another Game of

Thrones alumna. Set in an isolated home in the countryside, the play explores themes of futility and frustration: alongside Nina, there’s a woman desperate for fame, a man pining after the woman of his dreams and an unsatisfied writer. The Seagull is the second of three productions in Jamie Lloyd’s West End season – all of which are star-studded takes on classics. His residency began in 2019 with a new staging of Cyrano de Bergerac starring James McAvoy, and his adaptation of Henrik Ibsen’s A Doll’s House is still in the works – with Jessica Chastain primed to feature. Until 10 September, haroldpintertheatre.co.uk The Mother of Dragons tackles Pinter this summer

MY Cultural Life

Broadway and West End star Marisha Wallace reveals her culture kicks I’m tuning into… Ru Paul’s Drag Race All Stars season seven

– all my friends and my queens are smashing it. The snatch game is out of this world. I’m reading… Michelle Obama’s Becoming. I’m obsessed with her. She’s a woman of colour I look up to, but not just because of that: she’s a powerful woman who has faced so much adversity with composure and class. And she still defies all expectations of what they think black women can do and what they think specifically a First Lady can do. She’s incredible. My favourite painting of all time… not so much a painter, but [visual artist] Cornelia Parker. She does a lot of beautiful sculpture work. My favourite film of all time… The Colour Purple, about a woman in the Deep South who comes out of oppression to find herself. I’ve always loved that film.

Marisha Wallace performs in the Bedford and Oxfordshire Proms this July and August. lph.live 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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The Carpenters. I know that’s random but I love The Carpenters! My ultimate cultural recommendation… Discover other parts of the UK. Go around and find cool things where you live, to the coasts and seaside towns and listen to live music, as well. My cultural guilty pleasure is... food markets. I could go to Borough Market every single day.

PHOTOS: © MARC BRENNER

The band and singer I always have on repeat…

Books | CULTURE

FLY & FLOP

Richard Hopton suggests three absorbing books for your holiday reading

1 PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

PHOTOS: © MARC BRENNER

AUTHENTICITY Alice Sherwood

‘We live,’ writes Alice Sherwood, ‘in a storm of make-believe and deception’, a world in which the ‘lines between reality and illusion are increasingly blurred’. ‘We are searching,’ she says, ‘for authenticity in a world that is ever more inauthentic.’ Accordingly, she explores stories of behaviour both in the human and the natural worlds that question how we define the term ‘authentic’. It’s a slippery concept, as her varied case histories show: the impersonations of a fantasist; old-fashioned wire fraud; genuineness and attribution in art; evolutionary deception in nature; and commercial sleight of hand in the drugs and food industries. This book can be read as a quasi-philosophical investigation into truth in the modern world or simply for the entertainment value of the stories it tells. Either way, or both, it’s fascinating. Mudlark, £16.99

THE TRIO Johanna Hedman (trans. Kira Josefsson)

‘Two’s company, three’s a crowd,’ the saying goes. The Trio tells the story of the relationship between Thora, scion of a wealthy Swedish family of industrialists, August, an aspiring artist, and Hugo, a law student. Johanna Hedman’s first novel, set mainly in Stockholm but with sorties to Paris, Berlin, New York, London, and Brighton, is an emotionally acute and absorbing account of the way in which the friendships between the three protagonists form and reform, reconfiguring themselves in the course of the novel. The trilateral story is told bilaterally, in chapters alternating between Thora’s and Hugo’s voices, leaving the mildly enigmatic, bisexual August both in and out of the story. It’s beautifully written: Hedman has an almost tactile descriptive precision and a keen eye for the plangent phrase. Wholly memorable and enjoyable. Hamish Hamilton, £14 .99

MISS ALDRIDGE REGRETS Louise Hare

Louise Hare’s second novel is an intriguing murder mystery set aboard the Queen Mary in 1936 as she crosses the Atlantic from Southampton to New York. Lena, the eponymous heroine, is a mixed-race, jobbing jazz singer who, wholly unexpectedly, lands a part in a Broadway musical. This break enables Lena to escape London where she had become embroiled, albeit tangentially, in the murder of the owner of the seedy nightclub in which she performs. Her freedom proves short-lived as once abroad the Queen Mary she falls in with the Parkers, an unlovable if wealthy American family, and their entourage from which point things go rapidly downhill. The novel is characterised by the convincing period detail and love of jazz which featured so strongly in Hare’s debut novel, the widely acclaimed This Lovely City. HQ, £14.99

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CULTURE | Books

BIBLIO FILE

By Belinda Bamber

Scorching summer reads about the search for erotic love

UNDER THE COVER WITH…

Lillian Fishman

On the erotic love triangle in Acts of Service

becomes ‘simply a blanket that lifted at his touch’. More than mere sexual adventure, Eve seeks Austen-like values of truth and goodness in her passionate relationships. But does Nathan really bring Darcy-like integrity to her life, or the smoke and mirrors of his selfassuredness and her irresistible desire? Akwaeke Emeze’s sparky You Made a Fool of Death with your Beauty (Faber £14.99) opens with an explicit scene of Feyi having casual sex at a party, but in fact there’s nothing casual about how she’s rebuilding her life after tragedy. Nor is it taboo that her crush is older, bi or wears nail varnish – rather that he’s her new boyfriend’s dad, in this sensual meeting of two lost souls.

BEACH BLISS BREEZE through Book Lovers by Emily Henry, a story rich in sassy dialogue, as arch New York book agent Nora spars with aloof editor Charlie when they collide in provincial Sunshine Falls. (Penguin, £8.99) BLUSH while rediscovering one of the classic erotic novels of all time, James Salter’s steamy A Sport and a Pastime (Pan Macmillan, £9.99). Guaranteed to bring the heat to your skin, even if you don’t make it to that sun lounger.

It’s about the variety and complexity of love. Eve grapples with her sense of womanhood in a secret affair with Nathan and Olivia. Fidelity, monogamy, polyamory

are themes that readers seem to seek in the book. For me, the eroticism was in Eve betraying the sexual identity she’d committed to. What is more romantic than being surprised by your attraction to someone, the quality of their interest, incapable of refusing it, and learning to see both yourself and them in a far deeper light? We spend our lives talking about our political beliefs and hopes for the world – but most of us actually live out our politics in our relationships. As a child I was desperate to grow up. I was only interested in adult art and adult concepts. Play, humour, absurdity are still difficult for me, though essential for life and art. I’m more comfortable with patternmaking, organisation, analysis. Starting a proper diary, aged 11 or 12, was the beginning of my self-knowledge. The books I’d gift a young adult are Sheila Heti’s How Should a Person Be?, and Marilynne Robinson’s Gilead – mesmerising, incomparable maps for encountering the world, by two of my favourite living writers. Acts of Service (Europa. £12.99) n

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

rom Colette to Anaïs Nin, women writers have long celebrated amour libre, and classics like The Story of O by Pauline Réage and Sleeping Beauty by Anne Rice, haven’t lost their erotic charge. Now a new generation of writers, raised on sexual freedom as a female right, is exploring the ideals and taboos of modern love stories. In Lillian Fishman’s debut novel, Acts of Service (see Q&A, right), Eve lives in happy coupledom with her girlfriend Romi, but tumbles into a secret, triangular affair with Olivia and Nathan that overturns her queer identity. She’s magnetised by Nathan, who seems to intuit not just what she craves in bed, but also who she is as a person; her life

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TOM DAVI ES: BESPOKE E Y E WEAR D E S IG N ER

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P OW E R E D B Y Seeing beyond

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CULTURE | Review

The EXHIBITIONIST

kow Eshun, the former director of the Institute of Contemporary Arts, and a well-known curator, critic and writer, has curated a fantastic show that opened recently at London’s Hayward Gallery. In the Black Fantastic is on for the rest of the summer, and you should go and see it. It is indeed fantastic – and extraordinary. Featuring 11 artists from the African diaspora, it draws on science fiction, myth, spiritual traditions and the engaging concept of ‘Afrofuturism’ (that’s a word to drop at the next dinner party). The show covers painting, photography, sculpture, video and mixed media, and is somewhat immersive. Many of the artists are, of course, very well known. The most high profile, certainly at the moment, is Hew Locke, an incredible artist who has just been made a Royal Academician. His amazing installation The Procession is currently on show at Tate Britain as well, covering the entire length of the entrance hall. It is what the title says – a huge procession of vibrantly and colourfully clothed life-sized dummies marching through the building, inviting us all to walk alongside them into an enlarged vision of an imagined future. Although they are static and dumb, in reality they feel alive and exuberant. You will need to keep going back. It’s no surprise to see Locke leading at the Hayward, but there are other superb artists on show as well. Chris Ofili is a Turner Prize winner and represented Britain at the Venice Biennale. Ofili’s work is often built up in layers of paint, resin, glitter, dung and other materials to create a collage. Yes, he is the artist forever famous for the use of elephant dung, but his art is terrific.

Other artists include Nick Cave (no, not that one, this one makes wearable mixed media soundsuits), Sedrick Chisom (tapestry-like landscape paintings), Ellen Gallagher (an abstract and multimedia artist) and Wangechi Mutu (amazing collage painting,) Rashaad Newsome (sculpture and video), Tabita Rezaire (one of the youngest artists on display with video work in which she features), Cauleen Smith (a multimedia artist), Lina Iris Viktor (incredible paintings) and Kara Walker (striking silhouettes). Although this is an exhibition of established artists, and worthwhile entirely on its own terms, the curation of course makes a wider, important point. Many years ago, when I was culture minister, I went to see Lenny Henry star in the Comedy of Errors at the National Theatre. I noticed as soon I sat down that the audience was very different. And the fact that I noticed was a problem – for me. I realised in an instant – and it was a kind of Damascene conversion – that I lived in a bubble. I always saw people that looked like me on stage and thought nothing of it. That night the audience was different because they had come to see someone who looked like them – and that was still far too rare an occasion. I had a meeting with Lenny Henry soon after, and we began a campaign to increase diversity in the arts – film, theatre, television. We had a lot of meetings and raised the profile of the issue. It’s still an ongoing debate, although recently it’s been diverted down the rabbit hole of a completely unnecessary culture war. The same battle also needs to be fought in the visual arts, though here we have also made significant progress. But there is still so much more we need to do to ensure that the work of brilliant and established artists is seen more often. In the Black Fantastic, until 18 September 2022. southbankcentre.co.uk

FROM TOP LEFT: Soundsuit by Nick Cave; Annunciation by Chris Ofili; The Procession by Hew Locke, currently on show at Tate Britain; Medusa Wandered the Wetlands of the Capital Citadel Undisturbed by Two Confederate Drifters Preoccupied by Poisonous Vapors that Stirred in the Night Air by Sedrick Chisom

PHOTOS: © CHRIS OFILI. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND DAVID ZWIRNER, © NICK CAVE. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK. MANDRAKE HOTEL COLLECTION, © SEDRICK CHISOM. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND PILAR CORRIAS, LONDON. PHOTO: MARK BLOWER

The Hayward’s show is a shot in the arm for more diversity in the visual arts, says Ed Vaizey

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Art | CULTURE Rejected by fashion school in London, Sabina headed to Paris to study couture instead

SABINA SAVAGE

PHOTO: © CAITI GROVE

‘I

Caiti Grove talks culture and couture with the illustrator and fashion designer in her Hackney atelier

’m actually not very well travelled,’ muses illustrator and print designer Sabina Savage, matter of factly. ‘But I’ve researched so much into different cultures and countries, I travel through my work.’ In her studio in East London, a pencil drawing sits on an easel, the finished silk scarf framed on the wall behind: an alligator in his river-bed lair, snapping at the heron perched on his back. Sabina releases two collections a year of intricately beautiful scarves, luxurious silk shirts and perfectly draped trousers. Each of her designs is inspired by a cultural or art movement with an animal-slant for inspiration. ‘I love animals but not in a cutesy way,’ she explains. ‘The reality of nature quite often brings along a darker element.’ But her path here hasn’t been without its twists and turns. Central St Martin’s turned Sabina down. ‘Fashion at St Martins was all I ever wanted to do, the rejection really threw me.’ So she took off for Paris to study couture – despite not speaking any French. ‘I Google-translated my interview questions and they still took me,’ she recalls. But when she arrived, the teachers were dismayed. ‘Looking back, they must have known [I didn’t speak French] because my grammar was awful.’ Fortunately, they let her stay. The course was strict, and the work arduous and exacting. Lectures were eight to eight, five days a week, and initially involved a lot of frantic translation. ‘I had to ask other students to summarise what was happening – and what were the tasks for the next class.’ One was to make a suit, and if the measurements were out by more

than three millimetres the teacher cut the finished items in half in front of the class. ‘People cried – it was very emotional because we put so much effort in, and the fabric was expensive too,’ Sabina remembers. After that first year, Sabina applied for an internship at Alexander McQueen’s London studio. Only a single position was available, in the print department, somewhere she had never envisaged herself before. But it was a revelation. ‘I remember thinking, “This is where I want to be. I learnt almost everything I know there.’ Sabina illustrated at McQueen for three summers while she studied and helped at the house’s fashion week shows in Paris. After she graduated in 2011 – winning the prestigious Nouvelle Couture Award – she moved back to Britain to work for fashion houses including Gareth Pugh and Paul Smith, before ending up at McQueen. Sabina left the house in 2014 and started a project designing her own scarves. ‘My mother’s friends bought the first collection,’ she admits, laughing. Eight years on, she is about to launch a new collection based on the ancient Indian Panchatantra fables, as well as introducing slip dresses. ‘The couture mentality definitely stuck with me,’ she says of her training in Paris. ‘In retrospect, it was a good thing I didn’t get into St Martin’s. The minute detail in French tailoring is much more where my skills lie than the British way of expressing fashion – the big gestures.’ She pauses to reflect. ‘But people all over the world say my work is recognisably British. I love that.’ An elegant pas de deux of cultures: French technique with British style. What could be better? sabinasavage.com n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 59

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CULTURE | Sustainability

MY LITTLE GREEN BOOK Orsola de Castro advocates for educating yourself in style, says Lisa Grainger

during washing and ends up the ocean, or takes centuries to break down in the soil]… Then we have H&M recently inciting customers to buy their conscious collection fast. You want to laugh!’ We all need to be informed about the clothes industry, Orsola insists, not only because it generates 10 per cent of the world’s carbon emissions, emits toxic waste into our water and earth and dumps millions of tons of unwanted apparel on poorer countries (about 336,000 tons a year goes to waste in the UK alone). But also because while many fashion companies make enormous profits, its workers are often paid very low wages – or in the case of the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, are killed at work. It was the collapse of the Rana Plaza fashion factory almost 10 years ago, killing 1,134 workers and injuring more than 2,500, that galvanised de Castro and Somers into forming Fashion Revolution. Since then, the non-profit has helped to make the public aware not only of who made their clothes but what they’re made of, while campaigning for improvements that range from higher wages for artisans in India and cleaner rivers in Brazil to better environmental education in Slovakian schools. The point of the campaigns is not to stop us buying beautiful things, says the fashion-lover. They are to educate us to buy better and to treat what we have with more care: to Clothes are a handwash, mend, alter, repurpose manifestation of who and love what we have (her favourite we are and what we sweater, she says, is more famous believe in, says Orsola than she is: adorned with brooches to cover holes, beads, sequins and colourful darning ‘which I think of as decoration with a memory’). Ultimately, it’s about trying to make us think of our clothes as an extension of our skin, ‘a manifestation of who we are and what we believe in’. As Orsola puts it: ‘The world is in a state of decay. You have to decide whether you are the sort of person who is prepared to plaster over a wound or someone who addresses the cause.’

HOW TO BUY FASHION BETTER READ Orsola’s book, Loved Clothes Last (Penguin Life, £8.99). BUY from small businesses, and always consider #whomademyclothes. TAKE time to sew and mend. THINK long term and buy only quality items that you will pass on. USE tools such as the Fashion Transparency Index, Remake and Greenwash to see how transparent brands are.

PHOTO: TAMSIN HAUGHTON

ew women in their fifties are role models to teenagers. But then not everyone is as tapped into the world of sustainable fashion as Orsola de Castro. The 56-year-old Italian-born, Peckham-based fashionlover has been at the forefront of ethical clothing for over a quarter of a century, and there’s very little she doesn’t know about it. In the nineties, before anyone had heard of upcycling, she’d co-founded From Somewhere, producing cool collections using factories’ textile waste. Then she curated Estethica, the first ever showcase of ethical clothing at London Fashion Week, while helping brands such as Topshop, Speedo and Tesco create more sustainable lines, and lecturing at Central St Martin’s. All while advising luxury brands, having four children (one, the influencer Elisalex, who founded the By Hand London sewing-pattern business, and another who’s a professional darner) and publishing a book last year, called Loved Clothes Last (Penguin Life, £8.99). It is Fashion Revolution, though, which has made her a household name around the world. Co-founded in 2013 with Carry Somers, the fashion activism movement has become the biggest on earth, led by academics, designers, organisations and key opinion formers in 92 countries, with billions following its #WhoMadeMyClothes campaign. The organisation has, she admits, ‘become bigger than we ever imagined’, as the demand for accurate information grows. ‘We are in an era of rampant greenwashing,’ she says passionately, ‘and people want to be informed because brands are lying bare-facedly.’ Take the Chinese brand Shein, she says, which has made a big deal of using a small percentage of recycled polyester. ‘That helps at the point of extraction, but not of care – we all know the terrible effects of polyester [which breaks up

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CULTURE | Conservation

The Positive Disruptor

Rivers are the polluted lifeblood of our land. How can we save them? asks James Wallace THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW Water is our most precious asset, so let’s save our waterways

The UK’s rivers are in a terrible state

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

ou can’t plough up or build on rivers. But you can straighten, drain and pollute them. That’s been the story for Britain’s 200,000km of arterial waterways for decades. All our rivers are chemically polluted, and only 14 per cent are in reasonable ecological health and fit to swim in – if you can locate the three per cent with public access, that is. Climate change doesn’t care about our reliance on rivers for drinking, growing food and messing about in boats. Persistent droughts and over-abstraction will cause water rationing in London before too long, while deluges will continue to cause monumental damage and heartache – and still we plan to build on floodplains. ‘Fatbergs’ twice the size of blue whales and ‘wet wipe reefs’ are real, and sewage was released into our rivers 370,000 times in 2021 by privatised water companies who have paid out £16.8 billion in dividends since 2011. In the reign of austerity, Her Majesty’s Treasury has cut 75 per cent of Environment Agency funding. The Environmental Audit Committee warns that, ‘Poor water quality in rivers is a result of chronic underinvestment and multiple failures in monitoring, governance and enforcement.’ Instead, volunteer citizen scientists and community groups do the Government’s work. The dreadful state of our rivers is an existential crisis and a national disgrace. I’ve witnessed it myself on the River Wye, when last year, the Wallace family paddled up ‘Shit Creek’. We camped. We ate ice-cream. We floundered in farmyard muck. Once

gin-clear, the river was stinking cloudy-green – every salmon-spawning gravel bed was covered in gunk, every sparkling white flower and green mane of water-crowfoot had vanished. Angry, limp-rodded fisherfolk mumbled miserably about the state of the river. Why? Well, since 2016, 1,400 factory farming sheds, with nearly 20 million chickens, have contaminated the border catchment between England and Wales. Their phosphate-laden manure is spread on fields, which runs off into the Wye and feeds deathly algal blooms. Simultaneously, farmers elsewhere are defecating themselves over shortages of imported chemical fertiliser. The irony of it all... The dying of the Wye prompted River Action, a punchy little charity, chaired by Charles Watson with vocal advocates like George Monbiot, Amy Slack and Feargal Sharkey, to act. Letters were sent to agribusiness polluters, Avara and Noble Foods. Meetings were held with Tesco. Sixty thousand people have petitioned the Government. The result so far? A meagre target to reduce farming nutrient pollution by 40 per cent by 2037. Our rivers will be long dead by then. We need a national outcry. Clean rivers matter to everyone. Even corporate leaders, shareholders and legislators need to drink. We must demand funding to protect our waterways and regulate industry. We must get personal: buy organic, vote greener, restore nature. Full positively disruptive disclosure: constipated by river crisis fear, I’ve just accepted a senior role at River Action. My first purgative call: ask Bo-Jo and Rishi to do their big jobs and kindly clean-up after themselves. n

SEE FOR YOURSELF… Watch Rivercide, a live documentary exposé by George Monbiot and Franny Armstrong. rivercide.tv CAMPAIGN Support River Action to save our rivers. riveractionuk.com VOLUNTEER YOUR MUSCLES Wade in, clean up and restore your local river with The Rivers Trust. theriverstrust.org

FISH SUSTAINABLY With instruction from fanatical angler Marina Gibson. marinagibsonfishing.com KNOW THE FACTS Follow the informed rants of Undertones frontman and chalk stream advocate Feargal Sharkey. twitter.com/Feargal_Sharkey

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Kia EV6 GT-Line S PRICE £51,945 BATTERY 77.4 kWh POWER 321bhp 0-62MPH 5.2 seconds RANGE 391 miles STREAMING Electric Avenue – Eddie Grant

Road Test

Is this the best electric car on the road? Jeremy Taylor drives the hugely impressive Kia EV6

TOWN Every now and again a new car takes the motoring world by

COUNTRY Family-friendly SUVs aren’t meant to be this good to drive.

scruff of the neck and gives it a good shake. The pure electric Kia EV6 is one such vehicle and I can’t recommend it highly enough. Just like the Hyundai Ioniq 5, this is an engaging, fun to drive SUV, offering good range, fast charging and a lot of space. It’s not cheap but I can’t think of another car that does so much for the same money. This is Kia’s first dedicated electric vehicle and one of 11 battery models due by 2026. The company is leading the EV revolution – way ahead of premium German rivals and pioneering the path to a greener, cleaner future. Around town it’s relaxed, refined and whisper quiet. The raised driving position offers great visibility and with cameras and sensors parking is a doddle. The curved, 12.3-inch touchscreen is stateof-the-art, while the ventilated seats are simply fantastic. Kia is on trend with materials, too. Recycled plastic bottles are used in the dashboard, while ‘vegan’ leather adds a touch of class. Not that this Kia needs it – the EV6 feels plusher than a Tesla and a very comfortable place to sit. The equipment list is vast – lots of safety tech, large sunroof, automatic headlights and a thumpingly good music system. If the 490-litre boot isn’t large enough, there’s extra space under the bonnet, too.

With all-wheel drive and two electric motors turning the wheels, the EV6 can glide along at a fair old pace. It’s not a sports car with so much battery weight but 321bhp is not to be sniffed at. Despite official range figures, in the real world the Kia can manage around 250 miles between charge stations – more than enough for most drivers, even those who live in the countryside with fewer charging options. Sleek styling means the low roofline impacts on rear-seat headroom but don’t let that put you off. On long journeys, the airy feel of the cabin is enhanced by that glass sunroof. Not everybody likes the exterior but at least the Kia is a distinctive-looking car. It also isn’t afflicted with an enormous fake grille at the front – a problem that seems to trouble so many EV designers. Dynamically, the EV6 is not on a par with the all-electric Porsche Taycan but then the Kia is considerably cheaper. The Kia has just as much standard equipment, and will also turn heads in the supermarket car park. Still not convinced? Kia also offers a seven year/100,000mile warranty on the EV6, combined with interest-free instalment plans for servicing costs. I’m struggling to find fault with this car – even the reliability surveys put Kia near the top.

RATING: 5/5 HANDBAGS

RATING: 5/5 WELLIES

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Driving | CULTURE

THE DRIVE

DESTINATION: CASTEL MONASTERO, TUSCANY

Guests could be mistaken for thinking the cobbled courtyard at Castel Monastero is infused with the floral scent of Chianti wine. Once a retreat for Italian monks, this five-star hotel is now a luxury hideaway surrounded by the rolling hills of Tuscany. Dark oak floors, vaulted ceilings and an imposing central tower only add to the medieval air. Outside, the fortified walls, a vast spa complex boasts three pools, a fitness centre and all manner of trendy treatments among the vines. Although only a 30-minute drive from breath-taking Siena, the hotel offer plenty of reasons to keep you in situ. Choose from vintage Vespa rides in the countryside, or take a Ferrari for a spin. A nearby polo club welcomes visitors, while a hot air balloon ride is an exhilarating way to start or end the day. Castel Monastero gives its visitors the chance to re-charge the batteries, relax by the pool and soak away the aches and pains of travelling by car. Not that I need any of that with my set of wheels – it may not be a Ferrari but Audi’s sublime A6 saloon is the perfect touring car. A roomy executive cruiser, the Audi is a very grown up car indeed. The latest TFSIe hybrid version features a petrol engine and plug-in battery pack. Working in tandem, they combine to give relaxed, long-distance driving in near silence. A 2.0-litre petrol engine may sound weedy on paper for this size of car, but the battery back-up adds a proper turn of speed. Flick the drive mode to Sport and a seven-speed gearbox suddenly ups performance levels considerably. Hybrid technology also makes this Audi extremely cost-effective for business owners, with low taxation rates and impressive fuel

Castel Monastero

savings. Avant estate versions are just as good; choose from a raft of different models that top out around £80,000. The exterior styling is sophisticated rather than avant garde, but inside the A6 is quality personified. Compared to rivals from BMW and Mercedes, the Audi is a cut above – a futuristic ‘virtual’ cockpit with superb ergonomics makes this a great car for long distance travel. A ten-speaker hi-fi is standard on all versions, with sharp graphics on the 10.1inch touchscreen and live traffic information on the sat nav. Traditional buttons are few and far between – the A6 also has great seats. A technological tour de force, the A6 is comfortable, quiet and very well built. It may not last as long as a Tuscan monastery but three-year, 60,000-mile warranty should help owners on their way... BOOK IT: Citalia offers a five-night B&B stay at Castel Monastero from £1,479 pp, including flights. citalia.com

IN THE BOOT

LIGHTEN UP Elevate your holiday wardrobe with this crisp linen jacket. A style classic, it’ll see you through everything from long lunches to summer weddings. £195, houseofbruar.com

Audi A6 Saloon 50 TFSIe quattro Price £62,280 Engine 2.0-litre 0-62mph 6.2 seconds Power 294bhp Economy 40.2mpg CO2 emissions 34 g/km

GO GREEN Take your all-electric car on a grand tour of Europe using this comprehensive companion for any ecoglobetrotter. The Eco Conscious Travel Guide, (Harper Collins, £12.99)

RALEIGH ROUND Bike experts Raleigh has redesigned its electric e-bike range, with up to 100-miles of assisted riding on one charge. From £2,199. raleigh.co.uk

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CULTURE | Interview

Jeremy Hunt is on a mission to transform the NHS – but nor would he say no to throwing his hat in the ring for the top job of PM one day, says Charlotte Metcalf PORTRAIT BY ALEXANDRA DAO

J IN BRIEF DOG OR CAT?

I can’t believe it took ’til lockdown to add Poppy, a yellow lab, to our family. She’s our fourth child COUNTRY COTTAGE OR PENTHOUSE?

We have a cottage in my Surrey constituency and every second of the week I dream of getting down to it GARDENING OR THEATRE?

Theatre – we recently went to see the new Mary Poppins and loved it COUNTRY CASUALS OR CITY SUIT?

Sloppy country clothes as all overgrown public schoolboys like casual dressing

eremy Hunt’s new book, Zero, was published the day before we met. I had just days to read it, but I was so hooked that I finished it within 24 hours. Zero is an account of Jeremy’s time as our longest-serving Secretary of State for Health, during which he had numerous emotional confrontations with the relatives of those who’d died unnecessarily while in the care of the NHS. Jeremy remains so dismayed by those deaths that as a backbencher he’s continuing to focus on eliminating them altogether – hence the book’s title. Jeremy arrives at Scarfes by bicycle, and we start by talking about Dr Rachel Clarke, his ‘nemesis’, with whom he clashed bitterly over the junior doctors’ strike. Dr Clarke wrote in The Guardian that she ‘disconcertingly entirely agreed’ with most of Jeremy’s book but went on to describe it as the ‘emollient’ prose of a ‘consummate politician’. ‘Of course, I’m a professional politician, but politics were not the motive for the book,’ Jeremy counters. ‘I wanted to write it because there’s an argument I need to win. Rachel was right to say I failed to focus on the devastating impact of austerity measures on the NHS, but I didn’t believe austerity was the cause of all those deaths. What’s causing them is the pervasive blame culture.’ He cites the recent case of a teenage boy dying at the hands of a paramedic. ‘When you or I make a mistake, no one dies. Health is the only industry in which death happens regularly. I have little doubt that paramedic feels devastated. Deaths can only be avoided if we seek out why they happened, not just look for someone to blame. ‘In hindsight I put my hands up – I got things wrong and made over-confrontational speeches,’ he says of the doctors’ strike. He became a divisive and often loathed figure, yet his commitment to the NHS appears both firm and genuine. ‘People are proud that the NHS is free but that’s not enough,’ he insists. ‘It must be accessible to duke and dustman alike, but it must also be of the highest quality and how can it be when we don’t train enough doctors?’ Wouldn’t it help if pharmacists could dispense drugs without prescription? ‘Ah! I know the answer to that one,’ he grins. ‘By 2025 or six, all pharmacists will be able to do that.’ Yet empowering pharmacists won’t address the dire shortage of doctors, due to the expense (about £250,000 a head) of training them. ‘I wish I’d known how fundamental training enough doctors and nurses was for our future,’ he

says. ‘Germany has 60 per cent more doctors a head, France 20 per cent and even our NHS visa policy allowing in more from abroad is not a get-out-of-jail card, because there is a global shortage of 2.1 million doctors and 15 million nurses. And is it ethical to drain brains from countries like Somalia where medics are so desperately needed?’ So, what’s the answer? He believes in continuity of care and ‘relationship medicine’. ‘If you have your own family doctor, you’re 30 per cent less likely to die. GPs used to go into hospitals and oversee their patients’ operations and there was a real sense of accountability, but now people often never see the same doctor twice. You get asked if you smoke or drink every time afresh but a doctor you see regularly can judge the right moment to nudge you away from those, which is much more effective.’ But can things really change and does the current Health Secretary Sajid Javid agree with him? ‘Well, he has my book and is sincere in wanting the best,’ Jeremy smiles. ‘When I entered Cabinet in 2010, I thought success was measured by how much you changed things. But as Health Secretary I was so shocked by what I saw that I realised real leadership is not about changing things but about changing minds. I don’t mean to compare myself to giants like Thatcher or Mandela, but they’re a huge influence as they changed the way we think and that’s a much more lasting legacy.’ Of his own legacy he says, ‘Being the longest serving Health Secretary might be the biggest thing I’ll ever do, and if I’ve shifted the dial on preventable deaths, that’s good.’ He’s relaxed as I ask if he has his eye on the leadership: ‘I’ve been very happy spending more time with my family and in my constituency and now would not be a good time to mount a challenge. But I don’t rule it out. Never say never.’ In the meantime, he’s off to Hay Festival where he will be in conversation with Dr Clarke. That morning, she had tweeted her outrage at the findings of the Sue Gray report, and though I’ve been warned by Jeremy’s team not to mention Partygate, I can’t help but think that, despite their differences, Jeremy and Dr Clarke will ultimately prove to be allies of sorts. One thing is certain – Jeremy is not about to relinquish his battle to transform the NHS. Zero is just the beginning. Zero: Eliminating Unnecessary Deaths in a Post-Pandemic NHS (Swift Press, £20) n

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Jeremy Hunt’s book Zero lays out his plans to eliminate unnecessary deaths in the NHS

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ALL ABOUT

EMMA

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Dress, Jonathan Simkhai. Boots, Dior. Earrings and rings, Boodles

The breakout star of Dolly Alderton’s Everything I Know About Love, Emma Appleton, tells SAGAL MOHAMMED why she’s in her element

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FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID REISS

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her new south-east London home. She has a natural charm about her, and the kind of energetic confidence that immediately explains how she made two red carpet appearances in one night look like a breeze. Born in the Cotswolds, Emma grew up in what she describes as a cute market town, which was far removed from any prospects of an acting career. ‘No one was really going to drama school or singing or anything like that, so it’s just not something I thought about,’ she says. Instead, she fell into modelling as a teenager after a friend suggested she enter a magazine competition to win some free make-up. It opened up the door to a successful career fronting major commercial campaigns for the likes of Converse, Fred Perry and The Kooples. ‘I didn’t want to go to uni so modelling worked really well for me, and through that I got an audition for a short film, and as soon as I got that I thought, this is my chance.’ The film, an indie-short by Sara Dunlop titled Dreamlands, took Emma to Cannes Film Festival 2016, where she ended up meeting her agent. ‘I got really lucky. It just felt like everything fell into place at the right time.’ Following a handful of small roles (in Netflix’s The Witcher and 2018 horror The Nun to name a couple), Emma got a call from her agent last year telling her she had landed a gig in Danny Boyle’s limited series, retelling the story of the Sex Pistols – the legendary 70s rock band famed for its anti-establishment stance and revolutionising British music. She had auditioned for the role of Nancy Spungen, the controversial girlfriend of band member Sid Vicious, known for causing a rift between the group. ‘I remember when the self-tape came through. All it said was “untitled Danny Boyle project” and immediately I was like, sign me up. So I did the tape and didn’t hear anything for months. Then one day around October last year my agent called me to say Danny Boyle wanted to Zoom with me. I got off the phone and frantically Googled Nancy Spungen because I knew of her and I’d seen imagery but I didn’t really know who she was,’ she admits. While the quick Wiki sweep gave her the basic background knowledge, Emma credits the book written by Spungen’s mother, Deborah, And I Don’t Want to Live This Life, as her real source for understanding her character. ‘I was very aware that the Nancy in the script was an interpretation of the real Nancy because I knew that Danny didn’t want an imitation. But I also wanted to weave in some of the truth of her because you want to be respectful and handle it delicately when it’s a real person you’re playing,’ Emma explains. ‘I felt a responsibility in that sense and I thought, well, who knew her better than her mother?’ In an era when Hollywood constantly seeks inspiration from celebrity scandals in the name of art imitating life, one could easily fall victim to criticism for on-screen portrayals of real-life events; take

Top and skirt, Michael Kors Collection. Shoes, Erdem. Bracelets, Boodles

ou’d think making not one but two red carpet debuts on the same night would be intimidating for a new actor keen to make a memorable first impression, but for Emma Appleton it was quite the opposite. With leading roles in both Dolly Alderton’s new BBC series Everything I Know About Love and FX’s Pistol, the 30-year-old model-turned-actor felt right at home, seamlessly moving from one big premiere to the next within hours. ‘I felt like I was in my element,’ she says. ‘Who gets to do two premieres in one night?’ She’s right. It’s not every day a newcomer gets cast in two of the most exciting TV shows of the year. Perhaps that’s what would make it daunting for most, though Emma was more focused on the thrill of it all, which doesn’t come as a surprise even after just five minutes of speaking with her. ‘I think if you have one show, it all feels a bit like everything is riding on that which would potentially make me more nervous, but because I had two there was a bit more of a comfort,’ she tells me, minutes after dialling into our Zoom call from 68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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Dress, Christopher Kane. Shoes, CHANEL. Bralette, Commando. Earrings and rings, CHANEL Fine Jewellery

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Dress, By Committee. Blazer, Zimmermann. Shoes, Erdem. Earrings, Boodles

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Dress, shoes, earrings and rings, Dior. Bralette and pants, Commando

Pamela Anderson’s reaction to Hulu’s Pam & Tommy, in which Lily James re-enacts the Baywatch star’s turbulent relationship with her ex-husband, played by Sebastian Stan. When the show was announced, reports emerged claiming Pamela felt violated by the streamer for telling her story without her approval. While circumstances were different for Emma and the FX show, it was still something she was cautious about initially. ‘At the beginning I was nervous but then I realised this was going to be an interpretation and that we would have some artistic licence in terms of storytelling. The show is definitely fictionalised so that took some of the pressure off,’ she says. ‘It’s just about breaking the balance - I wanted to pay homage to her in a way we haven’t seen. She’s an icon that has been quite vilified in pop culture but people have different sides to them.’ Aside from getting into character, what Emma enjoyed most about the project was the time spent on set with cast members including Louis Partridge, Maisie Williams, Anson Boon and Toby Wallace. ‘We

were this cool little crew that were going on this journey together. Seeing all the boys do Bandcamp was so much fun. It was like being at an actual gig and we were all just so comfortable with one another, especially because we did a lot of improvisation during filming too.’ When she wasn’t channelling a 70s punk icon, Emma was portraying a character that felt much closer to home. She plays Maggie in the BBC’s adaptation of Dolly Alderton’s cult novel Everything I Know About Love, an exploration of young adult life through the lens of millennial women. The seven-part series follows Maggie and her childhood best friend Birdy (played by Bel Powley) as they move into their first London house share in 2012 and experience the highs and lows of life together, from dating and friendship to parties, jobs and careers. ‘There’s a lot I can relate to her about,‘ Emma admits. ‘We’ve got shows like Girls and Sex and the City but I don’t think we’ve seen a show like Everything I Know About Love which centres on female friendships that are as complex as romantic relationships. As soon as I read the script I thought, I have definitely experienced this and there are so many people I know who have experienced it too. Yet we haven’t seen it on screen like this before.’ Unlike Pistol, Emma auditioned and was in rehearsals for Everything I Know About Love within just two weeks. ‘I had to get into Maggie’s head fairly quickly. I had to draw a line between what our similarities were and what made us different. She has so many universal themes and the human emotions that we all share so it was easy for me to tap into that. I’ve got my best friend in the whole world who I absolutely adore and we lived together and have gone through so many of the same things that Maggie goes through.’ The experience was made even more fitting thanks to Emma’s immediate connection with co-stars Bel Powley and Marli Siu. The three met at the show’s chemistry read. ‘We just clicked immediately. It was so effortless,’ she recalls. ‘We all lived in the same apartment building during filming so we’d have dinners and hang out on days we weren’t working too.’ It’s not hard to imagine, given Emma’s warm presence even with a screen between us. Her friendly nature and ability to grab opportunities that present themselves to her have no doubt played a major role in expediting her career and with an abundance of talent to match, the sky’s the limit for her – especially as Hollywood producers watch on with a keen eye. For now, however, she’s taking a well-deserved summer break. ‘I want to take a few months off to live my regular life for a bit,’ she says. ‘There are so many good projects out there and I like taking the time to read scripts. The ebb and the flow of acting is what I love – I don’t have to do it all the time.’ Everything I Know About Love is on iPlayer now n

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Dress and bralette, Gucci TEAM Make-up: Nathalie Eleni @ Adrenalin Photographic using skincare by Réduit and makeup by Charlotte Tilbury Hair: Ben Cooke @ Frank Agency using Lockonego Digital cover: Tracer Ital @ Adrenalin Photographic Location images: David Reiss Fashion assistant: April McCarthy Digital assistant: Megan Dowson STOCKISTS: PAGE 166

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ON LOCATION Battersea Power Station is the ultimate story of rebirth, making it the perfect co-star for our ‘Regeneration’ issue cover shoot

PHOTOS: © JOHN STURROCK

attersea Power Station is a London landmark with some serious history. First making its stamp on the London skyline in the 1930s, it remained the powerhouse of the city for decades. Monikered the ‘Cathedral of Power’, this industrial basilica supplied electricity to all the major postcodes and British institutions, not least, Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament. A disused brownfield site since it shut down in the 1980s, it’s recently undergone a restoration of epic proportions – making it the ideal backdrop for C&TH’s ‘Regeneration’ issue cover shoot. Alongside shooting breakout star Emma Appleton in the most sumptuous of gowns from British brands like Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, and diamonds from Boodles and Dior, photographer David Reiss also took a trip to the power station to capture its unique Art Deco architectural details. The result is a powerful juxtaposition – between old and new, and between historical power house and young up-andcoming talent. From a derelict site to the new home of a thriving community, Battersea has seen arguably the biggest comeback in London’s history. batterseapowerstation.co.uk n 74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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E L I Z A B E T H H A R R O D & ST E V E N M C R A E , S O L O I ST & P R I N C I PA L , T H E R OYA L B A L L E T

savoirbeds.com

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Cavan Mahony collaborated with photographer Maryam Eisler to celebrate the countryside in all its lush beauty by recreating a tea party scene from Clara and the Magic Circles with the Temperley family at their Somerset cider farm. As Roald Dahl says, ‘Those who don’t believe in magic will never find it.’ Cakes by Xaviera Boadella. Styled by Sara Kirkby

Childlike

WONDER American entrepreneur and committed city dweller CAVAN MAHONY found her nature-filled lockdown in Dorset inspired a total change of direction PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARYAM EISLER

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‘W

e have to leave London tomorrow!’ I said to my husband on 19 March 2020, willing him to understand what it meant to be in a city under siege in any circumstance. ‘It could happen here just like it did during 9/11, with military tanks on Madison Avenue and fighter jets in the sky.’ I was recalling those horrific September days in New York with vivid clarity. He swung into action and within hours we had rented cottages with another family at Laverstock Farm in Dorset, all of us enthusiastic city dwellers, grateful for what we thought would be a retreat for a week or two… We ended up staying for a whole year before eventually moving to a farmhouse in Wiltshire, making the decision to permanently base ourselves in the countryside. I love living in cities. I grew up in Boston. I worked and lived in New York City and Madrid. Then I got married and moved to London almost ten years ago, and had a son. For most of my working life I have been an entrepreneur, leaving behind a stint of investment banking and marketing for renowned brands, Lancôme and Chanel, to co-found skincare brand Sundari with Ayla Farnos and Christy Turlington Burns. We worked together for five years building up the business until one day it made sense for us to sell it. During those frenetic years, I always had a desire to write a book, but I could never find the time. I was also suffering from debilitating back pain and terrifying panic attacks. I did not connect the idea that those afflictions were associated with my thoughts. The acupuncturist Abdi Assadi in New York healed my back and opened my eyes to the idea that there was a greater energy out there – call it the universe, consciousness or spirit – that we can tap into to free the mind and body from suffering. Fast forward to March 2020 and Laverstock Farm, our safe haven. As the days rolled on, I started to notice the white flowers growing out of thick green leaves with the most deliciously pungent smell that lined the path of our daily walks. The children and I took baskets, picking as much of that wild

garlic as we could to chop into pesto with pine nuts and parmesan. Then it was the electric green coloured moss that covered the massive branches of ancient oak trees and the bluebells wrapping their way around trunks through the forest. I recall standing on top of Pilsdon Pen, at one time a Bronze Age hilltop fortress, looking out over the rolling hills of Dorset and recognising a feeling that I can only describe as a fleeting memory of childlike wonder. Then I started to write. Every day I moved a small table and chair to a new spot outside under a tree or by the lake. Once I started, the words and thoughts poured out as though written by an unseen hand. This was not the book I imagined it would be. This was the story of my childhood and the lessons learned so much later in life. I forgot about the world’s Cavan Mahony troubles – and my own – for those hours I lived in my imagination with nature as my guide. It induced a form of meditation where the incessant chatter of my mind quieted down in the presence of the great outdoors. In that state I was free to imagine and create from a place of peace, instead of anxiety. I learned how not to be ruled by my thoughts, but instead to shift them to gratitude; for the blue sky; for the rain that nourishes the soil; for the hawk keening overhead. If children could learn this skill, I thought, and how to observe their thoughts that lead to anger or sadness and know they have the power to shift them through imagination, it could help them to grow in confidence and self worth from an early age. And so my book is for them; I have learned that nature can be a conduit to inspiration away from anxiety – and I am forever grateful for its magic. Clara and the Magic Circles by Cavan Mahony is out now n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 77

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GO WITH THE FLOW Why we have to regenerate our rivers, says Eva Bishop of the Beaver Trust

ll life needs water. But few of us think about the river systems we rely on for fresh water and how we might reduce the increasing pressures on them. Water stress will soon become the biggest climate risk facing large swathes of Europe, including Britain. And as we lurch from floods to drought, it begs the question: what can our rivers do to help?

The answer is as complex as Britain’s network of waterways. If the country’s river systems were functioning normally, the land would do the job better than any man-made infrastructure of storing water in floodplains and wetlands. But the latter required to do this barely exist anymore, having suffered a 90 per cent loss across the UK. It is the restoration of British wetlands that has become a focus and drive of the charity Beaver Trust, which is part of the Riverscapes partnership advocating for a national network of river buffer zones. Through this collaborative initiative the Trust hopes to restore rivers’ capacity to breathe and cope with changes in frequency and volume of flow, creating a virtuous circle for wildlife and our own water supply. Restoring river buffers is about reversing centuries of human encroachment on waterways, and the concept is gaining traction and support for its multiple benefits and relatively low requirements for land owners. The Beaver Trust’s acclaimed new documentary by awardwinning director Nina Constable, On The Edge, seeks to catalyse action on river buffers by exploring the vision and challenges involved. The benefits of giving more space to water include an increase in biodiversity, water quality improvement, topsoil retention, filtration of agricultural pollutants, water temperature cooling, increased public access, and, ultimately, more stable river systems. Not only that, but if we’re true systems thinkers, we must be conscious that everything that infiltrates rivers ends up in the sea. Naturally, though, with any land use change comes barriers to implementation, and we must acknowledge the multitude of environmental ‘asks’ already on land owners and farmers’ plates. Any buffer policy must consider the impacts on the rural community and seek to simplify implementation. Like the rest of the ‘wilding’ movement, this remains a human problem. Wilder rivers are not something everyone is comfortable with. But fresh water should be everyone’s business, it should matter to every single person how we look after our rivers and how we can improve their future. Once again turning to nature for assistance seems the sensible, systemic, and sustainable solution.

Watch On The Edge at youtube/TJOpfHDuww8

beavertrust.org

PHOTOS: NINA CONSTABLE

P R O M OT I O N

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Arizona Muse is one of the conscious creatives making regeneration cool

PHOTOS: © HELENE SANDBERG

GOD SAVE

THE EARTH What do farmers, chefs, rock stars and models have in common? AMY WAKEHAM gets the lowdown on how regenerative farming became the new rock ’n’ roll

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ack in June, as sound tests began on the Pyramid Stage and the first tent pegs were hammered in on Worthy Farm, a hundred or so miles away in Hertfordshire another festival was in full swing. Just like Glastonbury, it featured wellies, anoraks and a whole lot of mud. But instead of Sir Paul McCartney, Billie Eilish and Sam Fender, the headliners at Groundswell were Henry Dimbleby, the government’s food czar, Minette Batters, president of the National Farmers’ Union, and Helen Browning, head of the Soil Association – and mud, not music, was what everyone had shown up for. Well, not mud, exactly – rather, soil, which is the cornerstone of the regenerative farming movement that everyone from Groove Armada’s Andy Cato to model Arizona Muse has jumped on to. It’s the new rock ’n’ roll for creatives with a conscience. So what’s all this fuss about dirt? According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature, soil has the power to store more carbon than vegetation and the atmosphere combined – UN scientists say that improving soil health could

Not your usual festival: Groundswell in Hertfordshire

Mandy Lieu is regenerating Ewhurst Park in Hampshire

lead to an extra two billion tonnes of CO2 being sequestered by 2030. It also supports greater biodiversity and water storage and minimises erosion and desertification, as well as leading to better, more nutritious food for humans. The regenerative agriculture movement is difficult to define – it encompasses organic, permaculture and biodynamic processes (see our Get Cramming glossary on page 82 for more details), but essentially comes down to protecting and restoring soil health through not ploughing, sowing cover crops, increasing plant diversity, and allowing grazing animals to fertilise the soil. The movement has grown apace in the last few years, with Groundswell its flagship event. The festival was started by the Cherry family on their farm in north Hertfordshire in 2016, as a means of sharing information about regenerative farming techniques. Originally, it was 450 farmers in a barn; this year, there were 5,000 attendees over two days, with talks, workshops and exhibits from scientists, businesses and industry experts. ‘It’s symptomatic of what’s going on, in the total mindset of everything across all industries, but especially farming where farmers really can be the heroes,’ explains Alex Cherry, who quit his job as a chartered surveyor and used his experience of putting on music festivals to start Groundswell with his father and uncle. ‘Regeneration for farmers provides a positive opportunity to change their system.’ Malaysia-born model and actress Mandy Lieu, who starred in campaigns for brands like Dior, bought 925-acre Ewhurst Park in Hampshire for £28m in 2020. She joins other creative types like Andy Cato, who sold his music publishing rights to fund his first farm in France, and who now has a UK-based regenerative wheat business called Wildfarmed together with TV presenter George Lamb. ‘When I first started on this journey 18 months ago, I began to wonder what I could do to the land to make it better,’ explains Mandy. ‘Make no mistake, this is a life-long project and a multi-generational one.’ So how does a jet-setting model end up worrying about the earthworm population in a small corner of Hampshire? ‘It has a lot to do with my upbringing,’ she says. ‘The forest was our playground. If we were hungry, we’d snack from the banana trees that grew there, and take the leaves home for my mum to steam fish in. Everything very much had a purpose, and nothing was wasted. I remember coming to Ewhurst and thinking that, with all the amazing trees and food growing in abundance, it was not dissimilar to how I grew up.’ But it’s not just conscious creatives that are getting swept up in the movement. Big businesses like McCain, Nestlé and Unilever are investing heavily in regenerative farming. Like every movement, though, regeneration has its culture clashes – and a big one is with its close cousin, rewilding. Environmental activist

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PHOTOS: © CHRISTIAN CASSIEL; © PHIL WHITEHOUSE

Pigs fertilise the soil on Helen Browning’s Wiltshire farm

HEADLINE ACTS

The names making waves in the regenerative field POPPY OKOTCHA Fashion’s favourite gardener, Poppy, shares bucolic snaps of her organic edible and medicinal garden in Devon on social media. @poppyokocha

PHOTOS: © CHRISTIAN CASSIEL; © PHIL WHITEHOUSE

ABOVE & BELOW: Creating ‘mosaic’ habitats and a ‘purposeful landscape’ is central to Mandy Lieu’s plan for the 925-acre Ewhurst Estate

George Monbiot, a speaker at this year’s Groundswell Festival, is firmly on the rewilding side, asserting in his new book Regenesis that farming is the greatest cause of environmental destruction (see more on p83). A potentially inflammatory statement at a gathering of 5,000 farmers. ‘Monbiot was received surprisingly well at Groundswell,’ counters Alex. ‘He’s got a lot of very good points and I think farmers are agreeing with some of those – although maybe not.’ He recalls the first time Isabella Tree and Charles Burrell – who popularised the concept with their book Wilding (Pan MacMillan, £9.99), based upon their work at the Knepp Estate in Sussex back in 2018 – spoke at the festival. ‘We were really worried there would be cow pats flying across the room. But they’re totally engaged with what we’re doing. Whenever they start to talk about Knepp, they always say, “This is not the answer for the whole country. There should be a patchwork of recovery projects, but the majority of the land should be farmed in a regenerative way”.’ Tellingly, in 2021 the Knepp Estate itself moved into regenerative agriculture. This middle way is also followed by Mandy at Ewhurst. ‘What we’re doing here is neither rewilding nor regenerative agriculture; we’re trying to create a more purposeful landscape that not only produces food for humans and wildlife, but also creates all these

mosaic habitats so that different wildlife can thrive.’ Another bone of contention in the regenerative movement is productivity, especially in a time of global shortages and soaring food prices. Sri Lanka, whose sudden switch to organic systems in 2021 has led to catastrophic consequences, shows that there are no quick-fix solutions. ‘Sri Lanka’s crisis tells us nothing about organic farming,’ argues Helen Browning. ‘Governments across the UK and Europe are backing organic because evidence proves it can feed everyone a healthy diet while restoring nature and slashing farming emissions. A panicked Sri Lanka government imposed chemical bans overnight simply because it ran out of foreign exchange to buy fertiliser. But chemical-reliant farmers cannot go “cold turkey”, they need support to shift to diverse, resilient, nature-friendly farming – which is the most evidence-based solution for restoring climate, wildlife and public health.’ However, she acknowledges that it demands changes for us, too. ‘It means we don’t feed as much maize to livestock, and we reduce our meat consumption,’ she says. ‘It has to be more about sustainably reared beef and lamb than all these grain-eating pigs and chickens. It does require dietary change.’ Alex agrees. He recommends always opting for pasture-fed meat and using platforms like Ooooby. org as a way of supporting local regenerative farmers. The final word comes from chef and regen activist Thomasina Miers. ‘Every single time we buy food, we’re making a statement about the kind of world we want to live in,’ she says. ‘That is the most empowering statement, because otherwise climate change feels insurmountable. But if every single one of us believed that how we spent our money and our purchasing power made an impact, then I feel that we could actually change the world.’ Changing the world and challenging the status quo? That’s very rock ’n’ roll. You heard it here first – soil is super cool. Come and get your hands dirty.

ANDY CATO One half of the electronic music duo Groove Armada, Andy rents a National Trust farm in Oxfordshire and has launched a regenerative wheat brand called Wildfarmed alongside TV presenter George Lamb. @wildfarmed FEARGAL SHARKEY Lead singer of punk band The Undertones, Feargal is now a vocal advocate for regenerating British rivers – key for preventing soil erosion. @fsharkeylive CATHERINE CHONG Climate economist Catherine cofounded Farms To Feed Us CIC alongside Cathy St German, working with over 400 small-scale farmers and producers across the UK. @so_klim CLAIRE RATINON Organic food grower and author Claire is passionate about the power of plants for nourishing, connecting and healing. @claireratinon

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Holkham Hall sits at the centre of the 25,000-acre estate, now farmed using regenerative ideas

GET CRAMMING The technical terms to bone up on for your next dinner party

His brothers [Ralph and Joseph] may be accomplished actors, but Jake Fiennes, Director of Conservation at the Holkham Estate, finds his calling is to the wild

n numerous occasions I am asked, what’s your favourite bird, what is your favourite part of the Estate and why do you consider your role to be the best in England. If I’m honest it’s not as simple as that. I admire every bird for the moment I am graced by its presence. Whether that is the wood pigeon that sits on the fence cooing in my garden or the marsh harrier gliding majestically over the reedbeds. Each and every one of them has its place in the hierarchy of the natural world. The 25,000 acres of the Holkham Estate is rich and diverse, with the National Nature Reserve being its greatest natural asset. The tens of thousands of acres of farmland have the potential and, in some instances, demonstrate real possibilities in making our farmed landscapes equally rich in nature while still producing food. So, there are wonderful parts and places to discover around every corner. The creation of my role [Director of Conservation] at Holkham is unique and a clear demonstration that the Estate is committed to protecting and enhancing all its natural assets. The opportunity to mould and develop and to engage with the multiple stakeholders involved in this vast rural business is a real honour. But also, to demonstrate to the hundreds of thousands of people that visit annually the possibilities and the pleasures of the natural world. The Holkham National Nature Reserve covers just under 10,000 acres of which two and a half

thousand acres are freshwater grazing marsh – home to an array of species of birds, plants and invertebrates. For me, the grazing marsh is a farmed landscape that produces beef with biodiversity in abundance. It is well documented that we have a climate crisis and with that a biodiversity crisis, with significant declines in numerous species and habitats across the globe. Farming operates in 40 per cent of habitable land across the planet and in England 70 per cent of land is managed to produce food. Surely the easiest way to ensure our impacts on climate and nature are significantly reduced is for farmland to play a major part? Not necessarily just to reduce its impact, but actually be the key to the door that unlocks the possibility of reversing the damage that has been done. Undoubtedly things will have to change; we cannot continue in the current trajectory. Already across the globe there are farmers producing healthy, sustainable, nutritious food but also improving our soils. I’m making space for nature within our farm businesses. It is being demonstrated by a minority, but for it to truly make a difference it has to be the majority. Land Healer – How Farming Can Save Britain’s Countryside by Jake Fiennes is out now (Witness Books, £20)

AGROFORESTRY A land management approach that combines trees and shrubs with crop and livestock farming systems, delivering a multitude of benefits both for the farm and for nature. NO TILL / LOW TILL / NO DIG FARMING Instead of ploughing, crops are sown directly into the soil using a variety of techniques. Benefits include healthier soil, increased water retention and decreased erosion. HERBAL LEYS Diverse grassland that includes different legumes, grasses and herbs, which can be sown into arable and horticultural land, providing food for pollinators and improving soil structure and fertility. BIODYNAMIC A holistic farming approach developed by Rudolf Steiner in 1924, which became one of the first organic agriculture movements. It considers the care of soil, plants and livestock as interrelated. Some methods use an astrological sowing and planting calendar. SILVOPASTURE Integrating trees and pasture into a single system for raising livestock.

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PHOTOS: © JOHN RUSSELL

THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD

BIOSEQUESTRATION The net removal of CO2 from the atmosphere by plants and microorganisms, and its storage in vegetation and the soil.

WHERE’S THE GOVERNMENT?

A new policy is set to reward regenerative farming practices, says Ben Goldsmith

ur countryside is a wonder of the world, a great patchwork quilt of green fields, hedgerows and rolling hills. But our sad little secret is that England ranks among the most nature-depleted countries in the world. Countless species have vanished altogether, and others cling on in isolated patches of remnant nature. The EU’s gigantic Common Agricultural Policy (known as the CAP) has provided the principal impetus for what has gone wrong. Under the influence of the CAP, farming has grown into a kind of war against nature. As the biological function of the soil has declined and ecosystems have withered, farmers have been forced to use ever-greater quantities of chemical fertilisers and pesticides. It’s not just wildlife we’re losing. If you’ve ever wondered why our rivers and coastal waters run brown, it is because exposed soil is simply being washed away. Under the CAP, subsidies have been doled out each year to farmers according simply to how much farmable land they own in a policy which, if proposed today for the first time would be dismissed as ludicrous. Under CAP rules, pockets of nature are condemned as ineligible features. The impact of the CAP has been especially harsh in our remoter, less productive landscapes, including our national parks. Britain is one of the least wild countries in Europe, principally because our moors have been systematically stripped of nature to make way for sheep. One of the consequences is flooding. The science is crystal clear (unlike the water in our rivers): if you strip hills of nature, you significantly exacerbate the cycle of flash-flooding and seasonal drought. Environmental decline has gone hand-inhand with economic and social decline. Even with CAP hand-outs, in much of Britain intensive farming just does not pay. As the average age of

Britain’s rethink of farm subsidies is a win for nature, Ben argues

hill farmers creeps ever higher, many of Britain’s rural communities are dwindling. Recently however, something has begun to shift in our relationship with the natural world. Amid the loneliness of the lockdowns, people experienced an upwelling of love for their local nature and now the public is demanding efforts to restore nature to its former vibrancy. The Agriculture Act 2020, first conceived by Michael Gove, marks a turning point, setting in motion a new Environmental Land Management scheme (known as ELM) created on the premise of public money for public good. ELM will reward farmers in our more productive landscapes for adopting sounder practices, such as no longer ploughing the soil (min-till) and working with rather than against nature in the control of pests (integrated pest management). Moving towards such regenerative approaches

REWILD

is the only way to secure the future of food production in these areas. Farmers will also be paid to re-establish wildlife habitat on their land, such as field margins, fat hedgerows, ponds and streams. And at its most ambitious end, the new scheme will provide funding for dramatic restoration projects across whole landscapes, such as former wetlands or moors. This kind of rewilding of landscapes has certainly captured the public imagination. Naysayers tell us that prioritising nature in our remoter landscapes will hit food production and rural employment. These arguments are wrong. Turning the least productive fifth of our farmland towards nature recovery would lead to less than a three per cent reduction in food production (National Food Strategy, 2021). Intensive sheep farming in our overgrazed uplands may even be net-negative in terms of food production, if you take into account winter feed, and the harm inflicted on the hydrology of more productive farms downstream. Moreover, farming does not cease in wilder landscapes. Wilder farming or ‘silvopasture’, the traditional grazing of native cattle through semi-open woodland mosaics, may be a more apt term than rewilding. In fact, rural employment increases by 50 per cent on average in such places (Rewilding Britain, 2021). The real issues when it comes to food security are crops grown to feed machines, as ‘bioenergy’, or to farm animals confined on highly inefficient intensive livestock units and, worst of all, the 9.5 million tonnes of food in the UK each year that is simply wasted. England’s radical rethink of farm payments is the greatest win for nature we’ve ever known in this country, and a world first. $700 billion is handed out globally in farm subsidies each year. As countries grapple with the mighty challenge of how to restore nature, the eyes of the world are on us to get this right.

R E G E N E R AT E

PHOTOS: © JOHN RUSSELL

There are two visions for the future of the British countryside, says Amy Wakeham. But they don’t need to be enemies – the two can work together

‘T

here are two camps of regen, which shows that in any movement there are always tribes of people,’ explains chef and restaurateur Thomasina Miers. ‘There is the group of people who are focused on rewilding, and really ramping up intensive agriculture and food production in other areas. And the second camp is trying to harness technology and developments in engineering, and using ancient wisdom, to farm in harmony in nature.’ It’s a clash that was best exemplified in the recent debate on Radio 4’s Start the Week programme (bbc.co.uk/sounds), which saw Sarah Langford and George Monbiot go head-to-head on the future of farming in Britain. Monbiot’s latest book, Regenesis: Feeding the World without Devouring the Planet (Penguin, £20), George asserts that farming is the greatest cause of environmental Monbiot destruction, and that protein and fat should be lab-grown.

On the other hand, Langford’s book, Rooted (Viking, £16.99), sees regenerative farms as key to sequestering carbon and rejuvenating biodiversity. They both agree, however, that the problem is Big Farmer – agri-business that’s all about profit, not planet. As Monbiot points out, four companies control 90 per cent of the global grain trade. Destructive farming practices are big business. The sticking point is what to do about it. The answer seems to be rewilding areas that aren’t agriculturally productive and following a regenerative ethos elsewhere. Thomasina is clear what her stance is: ‘Not separating nature from mankind, but working with it. For me that is definitely the most interesting side, because I don’t see how the former works when our soil is depleting at a chronic rate. 95 per cent of our food is Sarah currently produced in our soil. If you can’t fix the soil, I don’t Langford see how you can possibly help to feed future generations.’

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Supermodel Arizona is using her influence to transform the fashion industry from within

ARIZONA’S STYLE PICKS

STELLA MCCARTNEY Queen of planet-first fashion, Stella’s latest innovations include the world’s first luxury handbag made from mycelium. Bag, £1,995. stellamccartney.com

FARMING FASHION’S FUTURE

Just like food, we should all be supporting regenerative fashion. After all, clothes come from the soil too, says Arizona Muse. By Lucy Cleland

rizona Muse is the poster girl for regenerative fashion, practising what she oh-so-beautifully preaches more compellingly than any other person in the industry right now, and positioning herself as a positive interface between fashion and farming. It is the disconnect between the two that has allowed us – as consumers – to gloss over the social and environmental impact fashion causes: ‘Everything we need is grown in soil, even our clothes,’ says Arizona (apart from what’s made synthetically in factories, she adds, which we should all be moving away from anyway). And unless those natural fibres are grown in a regenerative way, just like our food crops, they have a negative environmental impact.

BECOMING AN ACTIVIST Arizona, who as a model has a seat at fashion’s high table, had become aware of ‘just how shocking, how bad, how deeply wrong and unjust the garment workers industry was, mostly on women and children, and how the environmental degradation of the fashion industry was intense at every single step of the supply chain.’ This realisation encouraged her to take her first steps towards becoming an activist.

that also protects and enhances biodiversity; for fashion, it’s brands buying those fibres to make truly sustainable clothing – led her to set up her own foundation, called DIRT. ‘I started DIRT to raise awareness about biodynamic farming [see glossary, p82] and how it can provide a solution for the fashion industry. ‘Farmers work so hard all year long, but the only work they get paid for is the crop produced. But [when they’re farming regeneratively], they’re also increasing biodiversity and water retention and absorption in the soil. They’re improving the quality of life for themselves and their communities by providing richly nutritious food or fibres. They’re being responsible with animals. There are so many public good services that farmers are providing for us that just aren’t valued in monetary terms. It’s nuts.’

HOW TO SPEND IT

BRINGING TOGETHER FASHION & FARMING

Her advice to us as consumers is to spend our money wisely – and do our research – and always read the label. ‘Know that your money is either going to a business that’s causing harm or one that’s having a positive impact,’ she says. ‘If you’re so lucky to be someone who actually has money in your pocket right now, it’s your responsibility to spend it with the good businesses.’

Arizona’s zeal for connecting the two industries – for farming, that means growing natural fibres in a way

To find out more, visit dirt.charity

MOTHER OF PEARL Mother of Pearl’s commitment to sustainability, transparency and the lowest environmental impact possible makes it stand out. Dress, £395. motherof pearl.co.uk

OLISTIC THE LABEL French brand Olistic’s collections are created from 100 per cent natural and organic fibres, and made in Portugal. Blazer, €850. olisticthelabel.com GOLDSIGN Goldsign produces small batches of its jeans, made in the brand’s Los Angeles studio and constructed to last a lifetime. It also makes other wardrobe essentials. Jeans, £421. net-a-porter.com

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TIME TO DIG IN

Don’t be a spectator. Here’s how you can get inspired and involved with the regenerative movement R E AD

Unearthed, by Claire Ratinon After feeling cut off from the natural world, Claire moved to the countryside and began to reconnect with it – through the process of growing vegetables. A beautiful work of nature-writing, memoir and storytelling. Chatto & Windus, £16.99 Finding the Mother Tree, by Suzanne Simard The author was working as a forest ranger when she uncovered a groundbreaking secret: trees can talk to each other through an immense web of underground fungi, at the centre of which are the Mother Trees, which sustain the whole forest. Her findings were initially ridiculed, but are now supported by data. This is her story. Penguin, £10.99

For The Love of the Land II, by Jenny Jeffries A cookbook that celebrates the British farming community, with recipes from 40 of the UK’s most innovative farms like Riverford and Yeo Valley, and Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume. Meze, £22

LIS TEN

Conscious Chatter Hosted by Kestrel Jenkins, Conscious Chatter asks questions about where our clothes are made, what they are made of and who made them. Listen to episode #264 on fashion’s greenwashing problem. consciouschatter.com Start the Week: A Revolution in Food and Farming Sarah Langford and George Monbiot go head-to-head on the future of farming in this episode of Start the Week on BBC Sounds. bbc.co.uk Farm Gate This podcast from FAI Farms, a company that aims to deliver a higher welfare and regenerative food system, is focused on practical solutions for climate and food security. Listen to episode #67 on the politics of protein. faifarms.com/podcasts

Farmerama Radio An award-winning podcast sharing the international voices behind regenerative farming. Listen to episode #75 - ‘Biology first’ regen, Black British farmers and the miller-to-baker relationship. farmerama.co

WATC H

Kiss The Ground Narrated by Woody Harrelson and featuring a raft of glittery Hollywood names, this definitive 2020 documentary makes the case that, in saving the soil you can save the planet. kissthegroundmovie.com In Our Hands Made in collaboration with the Land Workers Alliance, this film is about the small-scale British farmers and growers seeking to escape the industrial food system, for a healthier future for both people and planet. inourhands.film Bristol Bites Back Better Named a Gold Sustainable Food City, Bristol is leading the way when it comes to eating greener. In this series of shorts, we meet the Bristolians growing their own food and supporting local producers. goingforgoldbristol.co.uk

Six Inches of Soil An upcoming documentary that showcases the story of British farmers transforming the way they produce food – to heal the soil, benefit our health and provide for their communities. Donate to help fund it at sixinchesofsoil.org

BUY

Pipers Farm An enterprise that now encompasses a collection of 40 small family farms, Pipers supplies regenerative, grass-fed meat. pipersfarm.com Aweside Farm Sinead & Adam run Aweside Farm, growing edible flowers, herbs and vegetables and transforming an ex-arable field into an ecologically thriving smallholding in East Sussex. awesidefarm.co.uk Hodmedod’s Hodmedod’s works with British farms to source a range of topquality ingredients and delicious foods, from beans to baked goods – order a loaf of Wakelyn’s bread, made from wheat from the bakery’s organic agroforestry farm. hodmedods.co.uk

Natoora Natoora works directly with UK farmers and independent producers to source seasonal fruit and vegetables, store cupboard essentials, and sustainably produced dairy and charcuterie. natoora.com n

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AFRICA’S

existential

Africa holds the key to combating global environmental threats – but it all depends on which road the continent decides to take. This choice, though, must be Africans’ alone, says KADDU SEBUNYA, CEO of Africa’s largest NGO, African Wildlife Foundation 86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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PHOTOS: AWF

CHOICE

‘I

Kaddu Sebunya (left) knows that securing nature in Africa is critical for the whole of humanity

’m writing this the week before the Commonwealth countries convene in Kigali, Rwanda for the organisation’s Heads of State meeting. The leaders will reaffirm their common values and policies to improve the lives of their people. The big question is where the ‘wealth’ in the Commonwealth countries is? The common ‘wealth’ is in nature. The world is only beginning to pick up the shattered pieces from a terrible pandemic that has killed millions, driven millions more into poverty and brought world economies to their knees. In tandem with the Covid-19 pandemic are three fundamental issues that should be tugging on everyone’s minds and are increasing global and continental threats: biodiversity loss; land degradation; climate change. Africa holds a wild card in addressing those three issues. A third of the world’s biodiversity is found in Africa. Securing nature in Africa results in global benefits to humanity. These services are possible in part because ecosystems have been maintained and secured in Africa. Africa’s contribution to the global public good needs to be recognised and somehow compensated. Therefore, any efforts towards global green recovery must prioritise support to Africa’s natural infrastructure base. As we all know, current development models premised on growth for

its own sake are unsustainable. We know that our collective consumption and production patterns are impacting biodiversity and our ecosystems that provide much needed services and benefits to all. As a developing continent, Africa still has a chance to do things right. But Africa is at a crossroads. It has the fastest urbanising region in the world at a rate of 4.1 per cent compared to a global average of two, with 472 million people living in urban areas in 2018. The growth is unprecedented in speed and scale, and it is projected that by 2040, 51.5 per cent of all Africans will be living in urban areas, up from 40 per cent in 2019. It is further estimated that in 2025, 100 African cities will have a population of over one million. Kinshasa, in Congo, is currently the largest French speaking city, beating Paris. Evidently, Africa’s population is growing – it is predicted there will be 2.5 billion people living on the continent by 2050, and four out of 10 young people on the planet will be African. The need, therefore, for additional infrastructure, as well as more land for agriculture and human settlement is real. Africa is now making real choices about how and where development will occur. What areas of Africa should be protected, and which ones will be traded off for development? What is the role of wildlife and wildlands in Africa’s development? Once the rest of the world begins understanding that Africans have a right to a better economy, better transport and electricity infrastructure

PHOTOS: AWF

Africa’s CONTRIBUTION to the global public good needs to be recognised and somehow COMPENSATED. Therefore, any efforts towards GLOBAL GREEN RECOVERY must prioritise support to Africa’s natural infrastructure base

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to conservation in Africa have been defined and determined by those with limited understanding of the Africans in question. The future of Africa’s wildlife will not be secured if Africans seem to think that the conservation agenda is largely set outside of Africa. We must all, therefore, agree that conservation in Africa must change if we intend on seeing our grandchildren enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the new Africa that is being shaped today by Africans. The non-Africans working in conversation need to interrogate how global history and the inherently unjust and unequal current systems continue to shape and affect their present understanding of Africa’s conservation problems and challenges. There are good global intentions towards Africa but these need to be packaged so that they do not crowd out, but support Africans to decide what conservation success looks like and how best to measure it. Africans must be given a voice to the perspectives rooted in the live realities of African people – especially those who live with the consequences of wildlife. Not because Africans’ conservation goals are necessarily unique, but it is for the reasons, the emphasis and priority the world needs to give Africans and their relations to nature, and for the authentic and empathetic way in which they could deliver conservation work. African conservation voices need to be as loud as those from international NGOs, global political personalities and Hollywood stars. The Commonwealth summit in Kigali should be a good catalyst for this, and the UK to leverage and inspire the next generation of conservation leaders. This next decade is Africa’s tipping point and we know which side we need it to tip. In our shared vision of an Africa, human development must include thriving wildlife and extensive wildlands as cultural and economic assets for all of us globally and our future generations. We must all remember that Africans need and have a right to more consumer electricity use, more transportation, more energy input to agriculture and manufacturing, more housing construction. It will not walk away from Chinese-backed investments in coal-fired powered generation unless it has alternatives. Through diplomacy and development assistance, the global community has an important role to play in supporting Africa’s efforts to develop and adopt pathways designed to help African countries advance through clean green growth. A comprehensive planning to adjust to a low-carbon economy, including electrified transport, renewable energy generation for as many end uses as possible, energy-efficient design and construction (especially for rapidly growing cities in the region) and low-emission agriculture is where the global north needs to meet Africa.

and more housing, the question of what model of development Africa chooses will not only determine space left for wildlife but how the planet will be impacted by climate. We know that the future of the unique continental wildlife is directly tied to these decisions. The future of African wildlife and lands depends on how Africans will link the conservation agenda to aspirations and mindsets driving change on the continent. The question is whether Africa follows the western model or embarks on a novel trajectory – this will have a disproportionately large impact on the global future. Africa is currently placing economic development and environmental conservation as an either/or option – it is a false choice. If wildlife and wildlands are to thrive, then we must work hard for them to be interwoven into the positive narrative of growth on the continent. This necessitates a capable and informed cadre of Africans at all levels of society to understand, innovate, lead, make decisions, or exert influence on the future direction of conservation and development on this rapidly changing continent. To line up the development goal blueprints and marshal the various interests they represent in a way that ensures wildlife, like lions or elephants, have a future in modern Africa. To be successful, this work must be done by Africans themselves. This may be difficult for the non-African, who have dominated conservation in Africa, to negotiate the new necessities and realities of Africa today. I have personally spent the last five years travelling across the continent, discussing and listening to many conservation NGOs, policymakers, political leaders, the youth, scientists, educationalists, the business community. It became apparent that the conservation community needs to reflect and change the approach and strategy if we are to sustain For more information and to support the work of AWF, visit awf.org n wildlife and wildlands in a modernising Africa. It transpired that conservation can no longer be only about the protection of animals as a goal; that people and their livelihoods must be at the centre of any conservation strategy and decisions African leaders are making today on economic growth, politics, population, food security, sources of energy and urbanisation is what will determine space left for wildlife; that it is critical to extend conservation influence beyond those who care dearly about animals to include those whose mindsets are driving the changes we see on the continent. Most important, because the conservation discussions are more political and economically based, to be successful – the work must be led by Africans. Africans needed to hear from Africans about why wildlands are important. This is apparent from the back end of the Covid-19 The future of African wildlife and land depends virus and the fight over vaccine hoarding, the global on how Africans will link the conservation agenda climate justice, Black Lives Matter and fairtrade to aspirations and mindsets driving change on the continent movements. For decades, problems and solutions 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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CRITICAL

CRAFT

LIST PHOTOS: © ALUN CALLENDER

We all know about endangered species, but do we know enough about our endangered crafts? With over 50 on the critical list and some, like the making of traditional cricket balls, already extinct, CHARLOTTE METCALF issues a clarion call to resuscitate our crafts

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canning the Heritage Craft Association’s Red List of Endangered Crafts feels like watching a doomladen documentary about our ailing planet. Just as animal and botanical species are dying out, reassuring symbols of Ye Olde England, like spades, clay pipes, clocks and bells, are also disappearing. Already four crafts, including making cricket balls and lacrosse sticks, are entirely extinct, while more than 130 are endangered, 56 critically. ‘The Red List is important to highlight the status of our heritage craft skills,’ says Deborah Pocock, formerly the Royal Warrant Holders Association’s Development Director, and since 2018, CEO of the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST). The trust awards scholarships to makers seeking to expand their skillsets, allowing them to study at institutions or under craftsmen across the UK or abroad. ‘At the same time, there’s an explosion of all things craft,’ Deborah continues. ‘TV programmes like The Repair Shop, The Great Pottery Throw Down or The Great British Sewing Bee show there’s a surge in people interested in making. Online sites like Etsy and Folksy are inspiring creativity everywhere. The craft world’s getting the injection of new interest it needs and during Covid people discovered how much making contributes to our sense of wellbeing. Craft can sometimes be seen as a fusty hobby, but then we saw Tom Daley knitting through the Olympics and what could be cooler than that? The young are taking up the baton and that’s so exciting.’ Deborah has just returned from Gordon Nicolson K iltmakers (GNK) in Edinburgh, Jason Mosseri is a successful where she was visiting tattooist-turned-chairmaker QEST scholar Emma Wilkinson. ‘Emma’s a young whirlwind, hellbent on making the kilt hip,’ she says. ‘GNK founded the Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy in 2016 so young people can learn the craft, where Emma now also teaches and spearheads GNK’s social media. The beauty of a kilt is that it’s warm, adjustable and hand-stitched to last a lifetime.’ When I suggest they don’t all need to be tartan, it’s obvious I’m way behind the curve: ‘Emma’s already making them in gorgeous plain colours. She’s taking a functional, seemingly old-fashioned garment and reimagining it for her generation.’ Another example is Sussex-based Jason Mosseri giving a contemporary twist to traditional Windsor chairs. He used to be a celebrated Brighton-based tattooist but became

‘hooked on wood’ after attending a chairmaking course. He built a workshop, then travelled to America to learn more about the Windsor chair tradition. He revels in the glossary of chairmaking (froe, gutter adze, travisher, scorp, spoon bit, drawknife, snake coffin), passionate about keeping his craft alive, so much so that he now runs six-day courses in a woodland near his home. If the word ‘craft’ once conjured up a cosy hobby that involved poking around for beads, felt or crochet needles in dowdy haberdashery departments, it’s now rocketed out of its confines into a glittering hemisphere of art galleries and luxury brands. The enthusiastic crowds that descended on London Craft Week in May were as likely to be peeking into a Bentley, watching a top couturier embroider or sipping champagne while hearing about brands of the future at a five-star hotel, as learning to knit a beanie from recycled plastics. Meanwhile, Wallpaper* described the Homo Faber Event at this year’s Venice Biennale, which was launched in 2018 by the Geneva-based Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship, as a ‘showcase of craftsmanship on steroids’. Several QEST scholars were represented there, including basketmaker Annemarie O’Sullivan who now makes contemporary woven objects of exquisite delicacy, and leatherworker Mary Wing To. Mary makes accessories for Chanel and is also a saddler and whipmaker (an endangered craft) and was a protegée of the Queen’s Master Saddler. As a reflection of this growing recognition of makers’ creative talents, QEST encou r a ge s and supports makers t r a nsfor m i ng t hei r traditionally useful wares into decorative luxury objects. ‘Craft is about function but nowadays also about beauty,’ says Deborah. She cites shoemaker Frances Pinnock, now making tantalisingly tactile sculptures from sole bend leather and Tom Vaughan, who trained as a cabinetmaker and is known for his futuristic S-bend chairs. From his London-based Object Studio, Tom has introduced metal into his woodwork and is making sculptures for delighted private clients. Tom is the son of renowned jeweller Charlotte de Syllas, a QEST scholar herself, who won the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council’s 2020 Lifetime Achievement Award. ‘I love seeing knowledge passed down through the generations and it’s important that skills can be transformed into a viable business,’ says Deborah. ‘So, we award scholarships to those serious about stretching

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Emma Wilkinson is reimagining kiltmaking for a new generation; neon making, like this by Katherine Huskie, is a dying craft; saddler and leathersmith Mary Wing To makes accessories for Chanel, among other projects; blacksmith Leszek Sikon crafts high quality chefs’ knives

‘I love seeing KNOWLEDGE passed down through the GENERATIONS and it’s important that SKILLS can be TRANSFORMED into a viable BUSINESS’

and evolving their craft. Take Leszek Sikon, who came from Poland and spent 15 years building a successful career in a major British supermarket, but missed working with his hands. Following a BA in Artist Blacksmithing at Hereford College of Arts, he set up Kingdom Forge in Suffolk where he makes the highest quality chef knives on the market, while running workshops to teach others.’ Leszek’s QEST Scholarship will send him to Japan to learn necessary smelting and forging techniques to make traditional Japanese tamahagane steel. Another scholar is glassblower Katherine Huskie, now incorporating neon into her work (neon making is another endangered craft). ‘She’s a great ambassador for craft,’ says Deborah. ‘When she exhibited at Collect 2022 at Somerset House, her dazzling wall sculpture wowed everyone. Katherine took the time to talk to a

little girl who was as awed as if she were meeting Harry Styles. Katherine’s making craft the epitome of cool.’ The real hope for the survival of craft is that its range and application are enormous, and its appeal limitless. While it now lives happily in world-renowned museums and galleries and is redefining luxury, it’s also captivated the environmentally conscious, intent on making-do and-mending. A creator economy is springing up, full of young people offering all kinds of hand-crafted wares, from jewellery and knitwear to pottery and furniture. ‘It’s a matter of the next generation fully engaging with craft,’ says Deborah, ‘and momentum’s already building. If we can support our existing makers and pass on their commitment and enthusiasm, I’m very optimistic about the growing demand for the extraordinary things they are capable of.’ qest.org.uk n

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A new platform has ambitions of transforming the lives of hundreds of thousands of people by showing them pathways to ‘light’. But it’s not as woo-woo as it sounds, says LUCY CLELAND

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Have you seen the light? This new platform promises to guide you towards it

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A serial entrepreneur, founding his first business at the precocious age of 21, Simon admits that ‘most things I touched turned to gold in the early days’. However, in 2001, after raising external investment from venture capital for one of his biggest companies, the financial markets changed dramatically and all the funding was withdrawn. ‘I couldn’t turn the big boat around quickly enough and so it meant I took money out of the other businesses to support it. They all collapsed. I lost millions of pounds of my own, my family’s and my friends’ money. It was just ghastly and awful. I ended up with literally nothing.’ But learning to live again from nothing took Simon on an extraordinary path that has now resulted in Light. ‘I learned to trust life. I had to trust, because I literally had nothing else. I learned that if I trusted, things came to me, not always what I wanted, but what I needed.’ What came to him over the next 13 years or so was, among other serendipitous encounters, joining explorer John Blashford-Snell, helping him to guide an expedition of around 30 people down the Amazon, before going on to lead groups into the Himalayas and Mongolia, and learning about very different communities and dealing with every conceivable drama from life threatening illnesses to one of his group being taken hostage. Simon then went on to run an NGO in Asia before ending up as a managing partner at Leaders’ Quest, a not-for-profit that takes senior leaders

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ears are tumbling down my face. Mac Macartney has his audience held in rapt attention as he recounts the story of the Children’s Fire, a fragment of ancient indigenous American wisdom sacrificed, at least in the world’s leading economies, at the altar of egotistical or autocratic rule – you wouldn’t catch Boris, Joe, Vladimir or Xi Jinping paying it much heed. The teaching, upon which Mac has formed his own profound thoughts around leadership, comes from the chiefs taking up their positions around the fire as wise elders by pledging that ‘no law, no decision, no action, nothing of any kind will be permitted to go out from this council of chiefs that will harm the children’, i.e. the welfare and wellbeing of future generations (both human and non-human) are at the heart of everything. And, when you think about it, if every leader followed that one guiding principle, the world might not be falling so desperately apart. This realisation, spoken so beautifully in Mac’s soft but intense tone, has affected us deeply, our faces are riven with emotion. I frantically journal in my notebook pouring out the thoughts he’s provoked within me. We are not, though, as you might think, with Mac in person. We are all sitting in our own homes with our computers watching Mac on screen. We are part of a group that is testing Light, a new platform developed by Simon Hampel whose ambition is to engage ‘a hundred million people as quickly as possible’ in a programme that allows ‘growth’, or indeed ‘light’. ‘Growth,’ says Simon, ‘only happens when you can create a gap. And you create a gap by calming the stimulus and response [fight or flight] mode which most of us are on most of the time. You practise this gap by building a habit. This gap then allows growth which leads us to make different choices, so suddenly you don’t find yourself being as quick to anger, or as quick to judge, or as quick to despair.’ Light is Simon’s way of introducing as many different paths as possible to as many people as possible to find their own entryway to ‘growth’ (or spirituality, or even ‘faith’ though there is no religious connotation here necessarily). So it’s not just Mac and his philosophical readings and practices; the next time it’s The Breath Guy, Richie Bostock, guiding us through multiple breathing practices that induce deep calmness and a sense of peace or a vibrating energy that makes your mind sing with possibility; or it’s three-time Nobel Peace Prize nominee Scilla Elworthy talking about the importance of really learning how to listen as a pathway to resolving conflict – as relevant to us in our daily lives as it is to the work she does in peace negotiations in conflict zones; or it’s Master EFT trainer Annie Penny taking us through tapping exercises to release ingrained trauma. There’s also movement practice with performance artist Zia Nath, and sessions on laughter, dance, meditation and more. And it’s by no means just a series of passive lectures; each online session, where your Zoom camera is encouraged to be on at all times, sees us split off into breakout rooms where one of Light’s guides leads us through a few minutes of sharing our thoughts on what we’ve just watched; or putting into practice some of the ideas such as listening, according to Scilla’s wisdom, and reflecting back what we’ve heard, so that our partner really feels we are present with them – so often, in interactions, our minds are elsewhere. Sessions left me variously elated, exhausted, inspired, sad or fully joyful. They always left me curious and thirsty for more. Simon has only been able to put together this groundbreaking approach to what I’m going to call ‘scaleable spirituality’ because the story of his own life has allowed him to be the embodiment of his ambition. Predictably, maybe, it kicked off with abject failure. 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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FROM TOP: The Breath Guy, Richie Bostock; Simon Hampel; Zia Nath; Scilla Elsworthy, photographed by Stuey’B

away on experiential journeys to challenge the existing mindset and learn how to ‘build wise compassionate leadership in the world’. It was only four years ago, though, that Simon really tuned into his inner voice, which kept nagging him, and repeating the question: ‘How does consciousness, energy and technology come together to create tipping points for change in the world?’ He could only ignore it for so long before he took the drastic step of resigning from Leaders’ Quest, unsure of what the next step would be, yet now with a wife, a baby and a mortgage. But – w ith his embedded trust in the world still perfectly intact – he had soon gathered together into a room at The Conduit an diverse collection of friends met throughout his life, particularly through Leaders’ Quest, to explore the themes consciousness, energy and technology. These included everyone from climate activist Clover Hogan to Scilla Elworthy, as well as mystics, scientists, AI specialists and energy healers.

‘We did everything in the circle so that no one was deemed to be the expert or in charge. And we would learn together. My role was to hold the room and invite people to just experience something.’ And then lockdown happened and it all went online. ‘Soon 30 people became 70, then 120. And by the summer of 2020, we all felt something was really happening – we were growing.’ And now we come full circle. The experience of Simon and his group of extraordinary thinkers and doers has resulted in a revolutionary tech plat form (‘because the tech side of this is the scalability of the project’) that aims to open up pathways to ‘growth’ for all of us who know that there is something bigger out there (‘purpose’) – but we just don’t know how to access it – yet.

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‘How does CONSCIOUSNESS, ENERGY and TECH come together to create tipping points for change in the WORLD?’

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The C H Y P Fragrance Family

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Looking for rest and renewal? Dip into the best in intelligent wellness and emerge refreshed

THE REGENERATION GUIDE Edited by Daisy Finer

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EMOTIONAL HEALING Clover Stroud on the agonies and the ecstasies of The Path of Love at Broughton Hall

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LIFECHANGING LEGENDS Daisy Finer finds a new look – and feel – at the Original FX Mayr

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ACTION STATIONS Hollywood’s favourite fitness retreat has come to Italy. Harriet Compston gets fit fast

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NATURE NURTURE Reconfiguring our relationship with our most important asset

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MINDFUL MOVEMENT Anna Pasternak learns to follow her own lead at Mandali

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BRAIN SPACE Rules-free meditation is a revelation for Daisy Finer

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WELLNESS A-LIST Wellness practitioners at the top of their game

FASHION TEAM Photographer: Trisha Ward. Styling, hair and makeup: Camilla Hewitt using NARS and Davines. Model: Danielle Copperman. For stockists see p166. WRITING TEAM Harriet Compston, Kate O’Brien, Anna Pasternak, Clover Stroud, Lisa Grainger, Nicola Cornfield and Alice B-B

EDITOR’S LETTER

n early June I visited the Aegean Island of Hydra. As you approach by ferry from At hens, t he rugged car-free beauty of the landscape rises like a myth of hope from the ocean. Hewn raw and strong by relentless currents, you step into the Greece you long to find: white-washed houses and washing lines, streets of cobbled slabs which gleam in the sun like giant blocks of tofu, jacaranda trees, sleeping cats, donkeys with bells. Suddenly, I am living a different life, liberated from my desk of duty and any lingering memories of lockdowns. Every morning I rise with the sun while my three children, star-spangled, sleep on bedsheets twisted in the heat of the night. I walk to the port where wizened fishermen are starting their day with cigarettes and coffee in cafés once frequented by Leonard Cohen and movie stars. I cross the horseshoeshaped bay until I find the nearest rocky platform where rickety metal steps lead straight into the sea. The deep blue sea and me. Icy, invigorating, fresh, alive – I don’t think there is a better way to start the day. I emerge oblivious to time – wind, salt and freckle swept. I dry off with the rising temperature; meditate with sea gulls circling overhead. For the remainder of the day I feel hungry for life itself, reborn to the technicoloured magic of the smallest scented petal. The water affords, each time and without fail, a baptism of the spirit. The light, liquid and luminosity of the moment are nature’s wild tonic bottled. We each of us can explore our own definitions of what the word ‘regeneration’ might mean to us. This guide is for anyone engaged in such a quest. As we emerge from the challenges of the last couple of years, it feels like no exaggeration to say that the narrative of the human race

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has never been more up for grabs or more precarious. We know we need to think and do differently. To reel out another ‘spa’ guide instigated by multiple trips to facility-busting fivestar hotels seemed outmoded and outlandish for these times. We wanted to delve deeper, look at preventative health care measures, the art of self-care, the inner journey and the undeniable and interconnected mindbody-spirit-heart-gut connection. As Fiona Arrigo, one of the doyennes of the British retreat scene, says, ‘When we talk about true holistic wellness, we can no longer look at just the personal self. We must look at the personal, collective, planetary and energetic. We need to connect to our intuition and instincts, so that we can live with spontaneity and flexibility and so that our bodies can continue to adapt to the endless changes and pressures that are affecting all our lives.’ Once we understand that healing ourselves is the first step towards healing our world, the search for personal regeneration becomes a profound one. The intersection where travel and wellbeing overlap is a landscape where every journey offers the opportunity for a pilgrimage of selfrenewal. The trick is to be discerning about which direction will suit you and which everyday tools to pack in your suitcase. You’ll find plenty of recommendations within these pages but the invitation, always, is to use your own curiosity compass. Experiencing the new opens a treasure box of revelations – and without revelation there is no regeneration. My dear friend Cornelius (find him in the ‘Brain Space’ section, p130) acknowledges that ‘with all the decay we are witnessing in the world, the birth of what’s new is arising at the same time. The idea is to hitch a ride on the new and ascend into it. Because we can’t expect the outside world to transform until we regenerate on the inside. Inner regeneration of the heart is the solution to everything.’

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Contents

REGENERATION GUIDE

Nature, as ever, provides us with a template for what regeneration can look like. Indian activist Satish Kumar agrees. ‘We plant one apple seed. That seed regenerates into a tree and the tree regenerates leaves year after year. The leaves became compost, regenerating the soil. At the same time, from that one seed, the tree annually produces apples to feed other living beings. This is a perfect example of the regenerative power of nature.’ The elegant simplicity of this kind of circular cycle is something we can each try to replicate in our own lives, from how we cook, travel and shop to the wisdom teachings we pass on to our children. When we take the macro down to the micro level like this, our task feels far less daunting. As Armando Kraenzlin, the inspirational GM of Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru in the Maldives (one of my favourite spa hotels in the world), says, ‘No one can do everything, but everyone can do something.’ Something is indeed what we each need to do. One step forward at a time. Together. This year Deborah Szekely, co-founder of the oldest destination retreat in the world, Mexico’s Rancho La Puerta (which opened in 1940), celebrated her 100th birthday. Her advice? ‘Don’t wait to look back on what you did. Regenerate by looking forward. I lie in bed each morning when I awake and contemplate the day ahead of me with gratitude. When you do this, you just want to wiggle your toes for the sheer pleasure of it all. You have the whole day ahead of you.’ Herein lies that very same toe-tickling lesson Hydra reminded me of – when we start each day afresh we can start to appreciate the living second. Let’s not waste it. Not a single drop. Welcome to the 2022 Country & Town House Regeneration Guide. The start of something new.

Bikini top and briefs, Matteau @ Matches Fashion

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P R O M OT I O N

CYPRUS CRUSH

Meet the must-know new address for your next Mediterranean escape

here’s a new name on every travel insider’s secret bucket list this summer: Cap St Georges, a luxurious five-star hotel that has just opened in Cyprus. The elegant, Instagramready beachfront resort offers its guests 202 impeccably designed, modern and minimalist rooms and suites, all with views of the glimmering Mediterranean Sea. There are plenty of opportunities for Kodak-moments on the hotel’s sleek sundecks, sprinkled with sunbeds to lounge on. Below the terraces, waves break on the hotel’s 130m beach cove, and there’s also a further two family-friendly pools to discover. And, this being Cyprus, you’ll be well fed throughout your stay, with ten eateries to choose between, from local Cypriot cuisine to Italian dishes, a Japanese teppanyaki bar, and a fine dining restaurant on the seventh floor. The hotel even has its very own gelateria for that mid-afternoon pick-meup, while sundowners are best sipped in the Chroma Lounge & Lobby bar with its 180-degree sea views. At the end of the day, the Nero Marquina marble bar, with its showstopping Lasvit chandelier, sets the scene for a date night to remember.

A WORLD OF WELLNESS AWAITS At the heart of Cap St Georges is its exceptional Cleopatra Spa, carved from cool Verde Guatemala green marble and providing a relaxing sanctuary for guests. It’s stocked with opulent Valmont and Cinq Mondes products and features a spacious indoor spa pool, whirlpool, and cold plunge pools, as well as an expansive lounge space, thermal saunas, steam rooms, and aromatherapy experience showers. For indulging in one of the hotel’s luxurious therapies, there are eight private rooms, two VIP suites and Rasul mud treatment chambers. For those looking for a more active break, you can set sail on the hotel’s private yacht, enjoy a tennis lesson on its courts, go on an afternoon snorkelling trip, or hike, bike or horse ride through the Akamas National Park. There’s also the state-of-the-art Nautilus gym, equipped with all the latest machines to keep on top of your fitness goals while on holiday. If you’re looking to restore and rejuvenate in a picture-perfect setting, Cap St Georges is the new name to know this summer. Relax in Cap St Georges’s indulgent 2,585 sq/m spa

BOOK IT: Rooms from €505. capstgeorges.com

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REGENERATION GUIDE

EMOTIONAL HEALING Clover Stroud delved into the darkest recesses of her being and resurfaced joyful and enlightened

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line from the German poet Rilke, ‘Go to the limits of your longing’, rang in my head as I took a train from King’s Cross to Skipton in Yorkshire, then a taxi to Broughton Hall, to join a seven-day process called the Path of Love. I knew little about what it involved, but was intrigued and, crucially, open, to a process described as the most intensive and life-changing mediation and personal growth process in the world today. I was curious, too, about the ‘deep inner work’ it offered. I have had decades of therapy and am a writer specialising in confession. Most recently, I’ve written three memoirs, examining with unflinching honesty, the way trauma, motherhood, sex, grief, adventure, death has shaped my life. I’m 47, and since I was a teenager my life has been coloured by high levels of trauma and loss. I’ve also created a life rich in colour. I have five children and I want it all. Confession and self-examination are where I work and live every day, and thought none of my cupboards were closed. How could the Path of Love, hosted by Broughton Sanctuary, take me further? Joy, though, had been in short supply, for a while. Standing in my kitchen at home, surrounded by the children and horses and energy I’d created or invited in,

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I’d been feeling numb and lost, separated from a joy I knew was there, but couldn’t touch or taste and certainly couldn’t see. A non-specific but pervading misery had coated everything around me, like lightly falling rain. You could say I went into the process with a pounding, wounded heart, sitting in that big room on the first morning, beside 32 other wounded hearts. Each had been through a rigorous selection process involving a Zoom interview with one of the facilitators, because the process is demanding, but deep longing and deeper pain had brought them all there. I didn’t know, on that first morning, that over the course of seven days, we would walk

together into the blackest, darkest, and whitest, brightest corners of our lives. Path of Love demands bravery. There’s nowhere to hide, and you have to want to do this course. In so-called normal life, we shy away from pain. We retract our hand when the flame burns too fierce. We shut down or shut away to protect ourselves, but we do the same with acute joy, too, perhaps for fear of looking ridiculous or silly, or simply because we forget what it feels like. What I witnessed around me, and underwent myself, was a process which enabled me to feel all that pain and all that light again, and not snatch my hand away, but instead dwell in it and watch the burn of the

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REGENERATION GUIDE

This is hard work, too, and the sumptuous surroundings of Broughton Hall, where Paris Ackrill and Roger Tempest have developed Avalon, a stunning, purpose-built space for selfexploration and transformation. After long days of pain and pleasure, returning to extra comfortable beds and eating delicious, vegetarian food surrounded by grandeur of the hall, was welcome. Outside the group rooms, we were sworn to silence, but there were gardens to walk

in, woodlands to forest bathe, and many distant horizons where I could retreat for quiet contemplation to extend my vision. The days, however, were long and gruelling, so most often, I simply flopped into my delicious four poster bed. In my life full of extremes, Path of Love was unquestionably among the most extreme, most demanding, and most beautiful experiences of my life. It has completely changed me. The process exploded chambers I’d held locked deeper inside me which even my confessional writing hadn’t visited; greater than that, it showed me the source of a deep spring of joy and ecstasy I keep inside me but had completely lost. It’s helped me understand so much about the way I communicate, and I feel much gentler and calmer in the way I face the world. I’m in nothing short of awe of the work Rafia and Turiya are doing. It defies definition, and is, quite literally, mindblowing. I’ve returned to my family a much, much happier person, with old anguish and pain worked out of my body, clasping a talisman of pure joy that’s sitting inside me, infinitely precious. My husband says I’m happy in a way he hasn’t seen for a long time, freed from a certain crushing responsibility the world imposes, as if I am drunk on joy. And the limits of my longing? Oh yes, I went there, and much, much further, too. BOOK IT: The Path of Love 7-Day Retreat costs from £1,850 + VAT. Price does not include food and accommodation at Broughton Hall. Email uk@pathoflove.net for details. avalonwellbeing.com

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flame, while rediscovering pure golden joy. The group of 32 was broken into three smaller groups, each with a pair of ‘facilitators’ who supported and held, often quite literally, each participant as we went through hours of highly confessional, demanding group sharing every day. Beyond our facilitators was a staff of just under 30, so every single person in that room had a sense someone was there for them. The process is led by Rafia Morgan and Turiya Hanover, nothing short of the high priests of dark pain and highest joy, who founded the programme. Their work is a calling, not a job, inspired by years of inner work and a shared commitment to ‘wake up’ in this life. They met in the 1970s after joining Osho, in Pune, India. Over decades they honed a deeply wise, genredefying, mind-blowing and somewhat iconoclastic process which broke me to my core, and took me to the heights of ecstasy, too. Surprise is important in this process, so that, as in life, you don’t know what’s coming next. It’s enough to say that the process uses intensive confessional group therapy, combined with both dynamic and peaceful meditation, and sessions of extreme physical movement and dance; over a week, we were all completely altered, bonded and, in so many ways, reborn. With them all, yet also entirely alone, I went through a cumulative process of grief, shock, joy, frustration, fury, frustration, rage, bliss and the purest ecstasy, culminating in a day so surprising and so beautiful, during which I reached a place where I became the actual embodiment of joy, it will enrich my life forever.

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FEEL ALIVE AGAIN EUPHORIA RETREAT, GREECE Euphoria’s much-loved founder, Marina Efraimoglou, spent many years studying both Greek and Chinese healing traditions and shares the best of this timeless wisdom with the weary and confused at this magical hideaway on the edge of must-visit UNESCOprotected Mystras. The new four-night Feel Alive Again programme, created in the midst of the pandemic, offers a chance to reconnect with your inner spirit. Blending Five Elements-based meditations, breathwork, expressive dance, journaling, yoga, music and vision boards, this is a chance to reframe your life with optimism, passion and joy, and be drenched in that special Greek light. Singles from £202 per night. euphoriaretreat.com

A HELPING HEART

LEGENDARY SHAMANIC HEALING PREIDLHOF, ITALY Stefano Battaglia‘s understanding of the emotional language of the body is quite rare, as is his ability to uncannily release deeply held trauma using gentle osteopathically based manipulation. Alongside an elite team of unfailingly intuitive therapists, this slice of alpine charm, sitting snug in the hillside beauty of South Tyrol, is all about reigniting a lighter, happier, more joyful connection with the heart. As well as saunas, pools and soul-nourishing food, what sets Preidlhof apart is that kindness and compassion here comes straight from the heart. And, along with the tears (there will be tears!) and emotional freedom, the body softens and graciously bends to this profound healing. The release is palpable. From £,2479pp for a five-day Integrated Healing Retreat, incl. flights. preidlhof.it

THE ARRIGO PROGRAMME, SOMERSET This five-star grief rehab is life-changing. Run by psychotherapist, Fiona Arrigo and Nici Harrison, the retreat involves five days in a divine manor house in Somerset. With daily group therapy expect instant bonding as, weeping, you listen to each other’s stories of death, betrayal, abuse and obliterated hope. There’s no attempt to fix grief but to witness and acknowledge it. The key is not to let it solidify in our bodies as disease. Breathing exercises, yoga, brilliantly intuitive massage and shamanic ritual all help dislodge shock and trauma. The nervous system is given time to recharge, aided by TRE – trauma release exercises – a form of autonomic body shaking to discharge adrenalin. Miraculously, you touch joy as you are aided by these skilled professionals to integrate your loss. £2,550pp for four nights, next dates 13-17 Oct. thearrigoprogramme.com

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PROFOUND GRIEF RETREAT

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REGENERATION GUIDE

THE POWER OF SOUND HEALING SOUL CONNECTOR ANANDA IN THE HIMALAYAS, INDIA One of India’s star spas, in the foothills of the Himalayas, has upped the ante in response to the growing collective need for emotional healing. Yes, enjoy the yoga, Ayurvedic food and breathtaking views of the Ganges, but be sure to book in for some emotional wellbeing coaching sessions. Spearheaded by Dr Roma Singh and Chandana Ganguly, these sessions use deep subconscious work, such as hypnotherapy, to help you overcome personal challenges and any blockages. It’s transformative not just mentally and physically, but for work and relationships too. Also, keep a look out for Dr Jitender Uniyal, who has just come on board to head up Ananda’s new range of traditional oriental therapies. These include TCM, Tibetan Kuu Nye and Japanese Shiatsu – which can all help chronic pain, migraines, anxiety and depression. Doubles from £702. anandaspa.com

SPIRIT SOOTHER

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THE HEARTBREAK HOTEL, NORFOLK If you’re suffering from a broken heart or are unable to overcome a personal betrayal, then check into the Heartbreak Hotel, a three-day residential retreat set in a swish Norfolk barn. Run by psychologist Alice Haddon and coaching supremo, Ruth Field, this is a therapeutic process aimed at supporting and re-empowering betrayed women. With group therapy, nourishing food and EMDR sessions, healing is fasttracked. Move from excessive rumination about your ex to radical acceptance and belly laughter in 48 hours. Along with beach walks, the whole experience is a true tonic leaving you emotionally strengthened yet lighter-hearted. £2,500pp for three nights. theheartbreakhotel.co.uk

Sound Healing is a wonderful way to reduce pain, stress, anxiety and depression. By taking you into another weightless dimension and synchronising your cells with the pure frequency of sound you can come back to your true self. Cultivate inner calm at the glittering ESPA Life at Corinthia London with a Harmonising Gong Bath, a brilliant combination of sound therapy and acupuncture (espalifeatcorinthia. com). Or head to Coworth Park where Hebridean seaweed skincare brand Ishga has collaborated with DJ Brian D’Souza, to create an all-out soundscape experience where music and treatments work together in harmony (dorchestercollection.com). Across the channel, Denise Leicester, the visionary founder of beauty brand ila, is making musical waves with intimate Maison ila, a green-shuttered hideaway in magical Cathar country (maisonila. com). Or, if you want to learn the craft yourself, check out Crystal Singing Bowls Europe in Brussels (crystalsingingbowlseurope.com). Founded by Yin yoga teacher Shannon van Staden, it’s a one-stop shop for all things sound healing, with training courses, workshops, a serene sound temple and the chance to buy the Chanel of crystal bowls, infused with semiprecious stones, minerals and gems. Surrender to the sound at Coworth Park

RETREAT RADAR When you need to step back and take stock, a specialised retreat can be just the antidote. Whether you are dealing with anxiety, exploring a new career path, in need of an exciting yogic adventure or have latent issues to resolve, there are over 90 retreats to inspire you on the Queen of Retreats platform. Explore unknown gems at refreshingly affordable prices as well as more luxe discoveries – perhaps you’ll go for Abergavenny, or maybe Zimbabwe instead? Indispensable. queenofretreats.com n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 107

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P R O M OT I O N

GET READY, JET SET, GO

LEFT: Todi, Umbria, Italy, £2.9m ABOVE: Saint-Raphaël, Côte d’Azur, France, £2.849m

Thinking of buying a dream home abroad? Here’s everything you need to know

ost-pandemic, many people are re-evaluating how and where they live. Searches for homes overseas are on the increase, with properties in France, Spain, Portugal and Italy leading the pack. But where do you start when buying abroad? John D Wood & Co. has the answers.

Benahavis, Costa del Sol, Spain, £8.246m

KNOW WHAT YOU WANT

KNOW YOUR LOCALE Do a deep dive into your would-be neighbourhood and discover all you can about the area before committing. Are you able to access a supermarket easily, or a hospital in an emergency? Is it possible to return to the UK out of season should a family member need you or a friend want to celebrate an important milestone? In addition, your

neighbours might be able to provide you with pointers on where to find local builders and tradespeople, which might not be immediately apparent to those new to the area.

WORK WITH THE PROFESSIONALS While in the UK a property agent’s goal is to secure the best price for the seller, their client, this is not true of some other countries, where the agency fees are paid for by the buyers. This promotes an entirely different dynamic. Agents can also provide invaluable advice on how to navigate the world of visa requirements and tax laws in foreign countries.

BE OPEN TO COMPROMISE You may get lucky, but the majority of property purchases require a touch of compromise. Should you find that dream home but for one missing requirement, examine your priorities. The snow-swept Swiss ski chalet that’s perfect barring its lack of upstairs bathroom? Don’t miss out on a once-in-a-lifetime find by hesitating. Buying abroad can create a lifetime of family memories and generate income for you as well. Roquecor, Tarn-et-Garonne, France, £602,000

For more information, visit johndwood.co.uk

PRICES BASED ON THE EXCHANGE RATE AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS

There’s a literal world of options at your fingertips, and therefore it’s vital to know exactly what you are looking for. Is it an instant rental return? Characterful and newly renovated properties near popular tourist destinations are key. The charmante but run-down hideaway in the remote French village, perhaps less so – unless perhaps your objective is to find a beautiful summer space or permanent home in which you can devour freshly baked croissants and watch the world go by.

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REGENERATION GUIDE

LIFE-CHANGING LEGENDS Daisy Finer finds everything’s evolved at Austria’s venerable The Original FX Mayr

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‘T

he only constant is change,’ smiles Henry, my mainstay waiter at Austria’s most legendary cleansing clinic – The Original FX Mayr. Henry has been working in the dining room here since 2012, the year of my last visit. His laugh bubbles up as deliciously as the soup saucepans in the kitchens. We discuss the clinic’s recent transformation. It’s not just the interiors that have undergone a dramatic facelift, the entire delivery of the famous Mayr ‘cure’ has been softened, personalised, and updated. Known for dramatically cleansing the digestive system and triggering satisfying weight loss, ardent fans of the Mayr have long viewed a stay here as an annual MOT endurance test, worth it mostly for the post-stay feeling of champagne-on-ice. Yet, here I am, 2022, and I discover the era of sufferance is over. Perhaps I shouldn’t be surprised. There are many Mayrs but ‘The Original’, which first opened as a residential clinic on the shores of Lake Worthersee in 1976, has always been progressive. Henry and I are agreed, it’s important to move with the times. Many of the changes, including the divine new beach house and jetty, have been orchestrated under the elegant umbrella of Gabriella Schnitzler, who

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once worked for Prada and came to the helm in 2015. Slowly and gently, Gabriella has sprinkled her fairy-dust. Goodbye orange pine, hello muted dreamy creams, flickering candles and blankets I’d like to smuggle home. It’s almost enough to help you forget about the gnarling stomach, Epsom salts, blood tests, metabolic measuring and the lesson in ‘chewing a raisin’ (actually that was unforgettable). New vitamin intravenous drips help alleviate the physical symptoms of detoxing. The exercise quota has been revved up with aqua fitness, Pilates, E-bike tours, yoga with Eva and hiking with Helga. Cookery workshops perk up an evening. Meditation, breathing

sessions and sound healing all help you to decompress. Don’t miss the extraordinary Ortho-Bionomy with Bernhard. The food is also hitting new heights. None of the usual culprits are allowed – wine, meat, sugar – but what’s remarkable is that the chefs don’t use anything that might upset the digestive system, so no onion, garlic, or chilli. Don’t fret, magnificent morsel-sized meals are full of not just flavour but alkalising, immunesupporting goodness. Breakfast might comprise a buckwheat pumpkin seed roll with a sheep’s curd tomato spread. Sometimes there are ice-thin crackers with divinely decadent portions of salmon. For lunch, perhaps parsley soup with

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lemon foam or delicately grilled char with loyal pumpkin. Dinner, the lightest meal, starts as bouillon (sometimes with ‘a taste of ginger’ – my, the excitement), but towards the end of a stay broth is upgraded to vegetable soups eaten as mindfully as a concentrated toddler. The seamless communication between the doctors and the kitchen staff is the invisible honey that makes the newly evolved Mayr run so smoothly. Look around the dining room and everybody is eating something different. It’s all about balancing the communication between individual hormones, gut, microbes, immune system and brain so that each member of the orchestra can contribute to the harmonious whole. After just a few days, purified taste buds are zapping with happiness. Meals are artfully presented, and menus share ‘Good to Know’ pointers, for example, that ‘mushrooms are low in calories but high in vitamin D’. Helpful when your doctor has reminded you that even a sun factor of SPF 15 reduces your production of Vitamin D by 90 per cent and stress reduces it even further. No wonder my levels are low. I return home with a weekly pill, which I am encouraged to take every Sunday, ‘like going to church’. Many compare the camaraderie between guests at The Original FX Mayr as akin to that at a boarding school. It is true to say most conversations here run deep. Everyone has a story to tell. Gone are the guests trying to stop smoking like it’s the 1970s. And it is not all about weight loss either. Mostly what the doctors are seeing is people who are struggling with stress, with

their relationship with alcohol, or with themselves. Ninety-eight per cent report tension in their neck and shoulders and there are also now Long Covid sufferers reporting an improvement in energy levels after just a week. The process of detoxing can bring to the surface the darkest debris of our subconscious and, after the past two years, when it comes to emotional recovery, one of The Original’s most welcomed secrets is lifestyle coach-meets-therapist Claudia

Waldner. She breaks through defensive walls as easily as cracking a walnut (it’s not unusual for tears to flow) and brims with astute wisdom. So much so that many clients keep up their sessions over Skype once home. I don’t know whether it was purposefully planned, but in what was once a male-dominated arena, there are now women at the helm. Between Claudia, Gabriella and the leading female medic, Doctor Ursula, guests are gently handheld and supported throughout their stay. I believe the current safety net provided by The Original FX Mayr is what truly sets it apart. Yes, the surface impressions are enough to make you want to move in, but it is the heart and soul of the staff that nourishes on a deeper level. As I immerse myself into the waters of one of the cleanest and prettiest lakes in Europe, I wonder, does the ‘Mayr cure’ work? I’ve been told about previously unknown cancers being detected (skin and bowel are the most common) and I know that there are miracle babies conceived post a stay here. Some find their arthritis eases. Others give up sugar. It’s a great motivator. A place to retreat from normal life, adopt new habits, reduce inflammation in the body and let your central nervous system settle and expand. The Original FX Mayr – a place where everything can change, but where deeply rooted principles remain the same. That’s cure enough for me. BOOK IT: The seven-day Original Mayr basic cure starts from £2,754pp, including accommodation in a single room. original-mayr.com

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REGENERATION GUIDE

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Bralette and shorts, Del Moment

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REGENERATION GUIDE Curative experiences at Kamalaya

RAKXA THAILAND RAKxa is another hard-hitting resort with a results-driven spa fusing technology and tradition. Set on an island across from Bangkok on the Chao Phraya River, this fully integrative retreat tackles every inch of you: physical, emotional, mental and spiritual. And, even better, it comes with impressive medical back-up from the country’s distinguished Bumrungrad International Hospital. rakxawellness.com

MAKE THE CHANGE

TRIED & TRUSTED

LILY OF THE VALLEY ST TROPEZ Despite the challenges of the last few years, there’s been a bumper crop of new openings across the globe. Lily of the Valley, a Starck-designed Babyloninspired hotel, has set the bar high. But really it’s all about the vast wellness village which specialises in rapid and long-lasting weight loss, through a combination of sport, healthy food and treatments – book the 14-day Intensive Programme. lilyofthevalley.com

SONEVA SOUL VARIOUS Famed for its sustainable approach to barefoot luxury, Soneva now offers Soneva Soul, a new wellness concept that blends ancient healing wisdom with the latest scientific techniques (such as cryotherapy and ozone therapy) to reconnect mind, body and soul. soneva.com

Since opening over 25 years ago, grande dame of wellness resorts Chiva-Som in Thailand (chivasom. com) has led the way and, now, fresh from a rolling four-year, £20 million refurb, it’s better than ever – complete with Tecar therapy, crystal massages and acupressure reflexology. Also in Thailand, Kamalaya in Koh Samui (kamalaya.com) continues its reign as a glorious holistic haven. Originally a Buddhist shrine, this big hitter now shines with an impressive combination of Ayurvedic, Chinese, Indian and Thai therapies, alongside Western philosophies. Elsewhere, Vana, in North India (vana.co.in), packs a slick punch – it’s a modern ashram, with transformative results thanks to a fusion of Ayurveda, Sowa Rigpa and Yoga (plus super nourishing cuisine). For somewhere closer to home, opt for Longevity Health and Wellness Hotel in the sunny Algarve (longevitywellnessworldwide.com). This ground-breaking resort delivers on every front, with its state-of-the-art wellness centre embracing some of the most advanced therapies on the planet. Sustainability and nature are at the heart of some unique slow travel retreats from Balance Holidays, whose emphasis is on wellness with purpose. Themes range from rewilding (think forest bathing and barefoot woodland walks) in the English countryside to female hormonal health workshops in Ibiza (balanceholidays.com).

LANSERHOF SYLT

Cutting-edge care at Longevity Health and Wellness Hotel

NEWSFLASH GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO This ravishing Belle Époque-style beauty on the shores of glittering Lake Como has a glamour which is hard to match. Its new wellness offering is equally impressive. Keep a look out for zingy fresh programmes which include mountain hikes, wild swimming, personal training and yoga, complemented by blissful soul-soothing treatments. grandhoteltremezzo.com n 112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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GERMANY This July, medical spa Lanserhof opened a new outpost on Sylt, aka the ‘Hamptons of Germany’. Just like its sister resorts, its naturopathy meets state-of-the-art approach means you’ll very soon find yourself sorted. lanserhof.com

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P R O M OT I O N

MAYAN SOUL Discover NIZUC Resort & Spa, a modern Mexican retreat infused with the magic of the Mayan

The white sands fringing the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef are the perfect place to unwind and explore Cancún, Mexico

n a palm-strewn peninsula a stone’s throw from Cancún, Mexico, hides NIZUC Resort & Spa, a 29-acre paradise of tucked-away beaches, protected mangroves and nature-filled playgrounds. The retreat offers a relaxing, private, beachfront escape in a location that, hundreds of years ago, was once the base for Mayan astronomers to gaze at the stars – and in more recent history a favourite of presidents and world leaders.

EXPLORE NIZUC Resort & Spa is perfectly placed on Punta Nizuc, a peninsula (nicknamed ‘Nose of the Dog’ due to its canine-like shape) between the Laguna Nichupte and the Caribbean Sea. An idyllic setting, it’s home to the Great Mayan Reef, the second-largest coral reef in the world. Here, you can discover some of the planet’s most beautiful snorkelling spots, or dive in crystal clear waters from the private beach to seek out giant lobsters, sting-rays and barracudas among the teaming local wildlife.

RELAX

NIZUC Spa & Resort offers mindful wellness options for individuals, couples and families, with 18 treatment rooms

Calm mind, body and soul with soothing treatments and ancient Mayan rituals. The NIZUC Resort is home to the first ESPA spa in the Riviera Maya, which encompasses 30,000 square feet of private rooms, hydrotherapy areas, and multiple pools. Drawing on the region’s ancient heritage, treatments range from Mayan mindful facials and massages, to restoring and rejuvenating aesthetic procedures in the MedSpa.

STAY The resort gives a contemporary spin on traditional Mayan heritage within its 274 stylish suites and luxurious villas. Visitors also have access to multiple pools and six world-class restaurants, as well as spacious terraces, lush tropical gardens and sweeping views of the azure Caribbean sea. You can lie back and enjoy it – or get active with the resort’s packed programme of cultural and culinary activities, as well as fitness classes and watersports. BOOK IT: From £625 per night. nizuc.com

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ACTION S TAT I O N S

Harriet Compston feels the fear and does it anyway at The Ranch

searching for life change. Some were there for weight loss, others to jumpstart their fitness regime, another just for an all-out body reset. My goal was to lose the pounds I had put on over lockdown. All confirmed as I was weighed and measured on my first day, before being whisked away for an ECG and blood tests. The programme is centred around the early morning hikes – deep in The Apennines with its sweeping valleys, lush meadows and glorious views. And,

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‘A

cqua, acqua, acqua’ crackled through my walkie-talkie as I trudged my way uphill through a breezy ancient forest, the fearsome Italian sun peeping through branches. I was on Day Two of The Ranch, Hollywood’s hardest-hitting fitness retreat. Known for transforming the bodies of A-listers, this boot camp has spread its wings and opened an outpost in Fiuggi – a medieval town known for its healing water, just an hour from Rome. Set in the towering Palazzo Fiuggi with its calming rooms and bells-andwhistles medi-clinic, the focus is on losing weight while learning to be more mindful of your health. But it doesn’t start as you go through the grand gates and into the verdant parkland. Instead, the hard work begins 30 days beforehand with their pre-arrival programme: 16,000 steps four times a week, four sets of ten crunches and 10 push ups twice a week and ten breaths before each meal. And that’s just for starters. There were 23 of us ‘Ranchers’. Nearly all high-flying workaholics

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REGENERATION GUIDE

despite the 6am hour-long stretch, it was a challenge: super steep rocky inclines (and declines) – up to 12 miles a day. Camaraderie was encouraged rather than competitiveness so I could go at my own pace, sometimes trekking alone, other times chatting with fellow walkers. A few days in, I began to feel more energised, able to tackle the unstable terrain and the never-ending uphills slowly felt manageable. Even my mind became clearer. Food was always the big talking point. The Ranch is legendary for its exquisite plant-based cuisine using seasonal ingredients from local farms. Whipped up by three Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck, meals are eaten communally with, perhaps, a zucchini banana muffin with homemade jam for breakfast. Lunch? A (tiny) quinoa and kale caesar salad and, for supper, delicious aubergine parmigiana stacks with macadamia ricotta. The afternoon was filled with brilliant HIIT classes alongside calming yoga. Or take time out and lounge beside the glistening pool or in the spa with its three thalassotherapy pools, using Fiuggi’s healing water. Then there was Dr Di Salvio who combed through my test results – most came back as normal except I needed to eat more protein. But the main event was the daily massage where the therapists (ask for Tamara) go deep into your sore limbs. And it worked – my legs never ached in the morning. It’s all about being looked after ‘360’ here. This means the enthusiastic staff do everything, right down to ‘foot care’ (they take an industrial approach to blisters). As the days went by, my legs were looking more toned. The food was actually filling me up plus the hikes and workouts got easier. On my last morning, I stood on the scales. Over the week I had lost five pounds – and 12 inches across my body in total. But, perhaps most importantly, I returned home with a new mindset, determined to eat healthier and stay fit and slim. Despite the gelato I thoroughly enjoyed at the airport before flying home. I really felt I deserved it. BOOK IT: From £7,226pp ($9,100 Swimsuit, Talia Collins

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USD) based on double occupancy. theranchmalibu.com

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WHERE THE WILD ONES GO CRETE This all-singing, all-dancing fitness camp has been transforming lives for over 20 years. The outpost in western Crete, set in a charming farmhouse in the mountain hamlet of Milia, will whip you into shape. With an actionpacked programme, explore gorges and peaks, climb and swing from gnarled olive groves and chestnut trees, swim in turquoise waters and jog past curious goats – before stretching out with a spot of yoga. In your spare time, hotfoot it to one of the stunning beaches or head for a massage to ease out any aches and pains. Skip off home several kilos lighter and loaded up with movement videos, recipes and much more to make sure you stay on track. From £2,250 for six nights. wildfitness.com

FIT WITH PURPOSE

FAMILY FUN WITH FITNESS CRETE With an expansive new wellbeing bent, Daios Cove is adding some serious physical activities to the family fun. Attracting the boxing gym experience of BXR London, expect trailblazing fitness combined with innovative medical technology, alternative health practices and an intriguing calendar of Healing Masters. Outdoor training sessions come with Mediterranean views and three dedicated zones cover cardio, strength and conditioning. Achy hamstrings are more than worth it for a dose of BXR trainers’ infectious enthusiasm. Kids are kept casually happy and you and your tribe will never want to leave the upside down, double storey villas with pools and cove views. From £330 per night half board with wellness programmes layered as extra. daioscovecrete.com

IBIZA If you’re looking to get your mojo back, what could be better than an early morning Argentine tango session on Ibiza’s north coast? Santhosh offers everything from ballroom to Latin, disco and jive, taught by professional competition and show dancers. This isn’t about performance though – instead the remit is connection, self-discovery and the joy of movement. Four-night retreats in locations such as the new Six Senses Ibiza feature a dynamic schedule of three daily group classes, individual tuition and social dancing until the early hours. From £2,500pp to include group classes, two private lessons and accommodation. santhoshdance.com

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DANCING SHOES

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REGENERATION GUIDE

TAKE THREE: NUTRITIONAL BOOSTERS 1 THE LATEST IN GUT SUPPORT

SAY HELLO TO YEOTOWN ABROAD

Five days of hiking, yoga, soaking in a hot tub, no sugar, dairy, or meat and being massaged till your mind’s blown. Move more, eat well, feel nurtured. As of this year, Yeotown’s phenomenally fit and gorgeous owners, Simon and Mercedes Sieff, have set up their second site on a pretty farm in the temperate climate of Madeira. There’s probably no better way of getting to know this island than hiking the dramatic cliff paths, dancing in enchanted forests, bathing in coastal pools and scoffing sunshine-filled veggie bounty. And as ever – like attracts like; so the Sieffs have unearthed a phenomenal bunch of local therapists and practitioners. Leave fitter, healthier, clearer and a little slinkier. From €2,795pp. yeotown.com

TRAIN LIKE A WOMAN

At just £30 a month for three classes a week, Jenni Rivett’s online sessions are a brilliant self-investment. Streamed live straight from the sunshine of South Africa, Jen combines joint mobility, conditioning and strengthening with her famous ‘The 8s’ – a HIIT routine which only takes 11 minutes and burns more fat than running on a treadmill for two hours. Emailed recordings mean no excuses. jennirivett.com

Backed by science, Swedish KÄLLA delivers meticulously formulated probiotics with the best live bacteria to help relieve the symptoms of digestive imbalance, support immune function and repair damage caused by low level stress. From £39 a month. kalla.com

2 INSIDE OUT SKIN HYDRATION Created by Dr Neil Gibbs, a leading skin biologist, Pellamex is a new category-redefining supplement for dry, sensitive and eczemaprone skin. From £49.99 a month. curapella.com

3 SELFCARE SUPERCHARGE

PSYCLE WITH YOUR CYCLE

Working alongside NHS doctor and personal trainer, Dr Frankie Jackson-Spence, Psycle has explored the science connecting our hormones with exercise and performance, helping women to ‘period-proof’ their workouts. Live in flow. psyclelondon.com

Launching this summer is a new breed of superfood drinks. Phyto Nectars nutritionally and deliciously support your varying states. The meticulously calculated botanical formulations cleverly combine science, nature and flavour with intelligent infusions of plants, mushrooms, nutraceuticals, vitamins and minerals. £14.95, phytonectars.com

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NEWSFLASH PALM HEIGHTS The Cayman Islands’ first all-suite boutique hotel on heavenly Seven Mile Beach is getting ready to sets hearts racing with its spanking new 60,000 sq/ft garden-inspired spa, opening this summer and a whopping athletics club. Ready, steady, go! palmheights.com n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 117

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REGENERATION GUIDE

N AT U R E NURTURE Immerse yourself in the wildest natural hideaways and disconnect to reconnect

Take a mountain hike from the Happy House, Nepal

THE HAPPY HOUSE, NEPAL BEST FOR: A SACRED

THE AERIAL, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BEST FOR: A LIFE-CHANGING ISLAND ADVENTURE

This super cool private island retreat is not only seriously beautiful but deeply transformative. Owned by 34-year-old Nashville-based entrepreneur Britnie Turner (see her website, britnieturner.com, for more info). The Aerial is a place to ‘connect back to nature, find your breakthrough, stay present.’ Mexican-chic bedrooms with stunning sea views blend seamlessly into surroundings; food is farm-to-table, created with produce from the island. There’s sailing, loads of water sports (try glow-in-thedark paddle boarding) and a roster of wellness treatments. Most interesting of all are Britnie’s Elevate Summits. Based around five core pillars – Dream, Abundance, Presence, Strength, Love – these life coaching courses focus on making sure you are fulfilled in every area of your life. And they don’t hold back. You’ll even find yourself writing your own eulogy to help you work out what you truly want in life. BOOK IT: Rent the entire island from £30,500 per night. aerialbvi.com

The aptly-named Happy House (so-called by explorer Edmund Hillary) is a heartwarming, peaceful haven where nature and nurture happily cohabit. Set in the quiet Nepalese village of Phaplu, this 10-bedroom private Sherpa home, embellished with prayer flags, can be booked out exclusively or by the room. Days take shape around individual preferences and tend to begin with yoga and meditation before a generous breakfast of porridge, seasonal fruits, fresh juices, coffee and ginger tea under the blossom tree. There’s a choice of alluring walks – through holy forests, river beds, ancient yak trade routes and rhododendron-filled paths to Tibetan monasteries, or, for those seeking something more intrepid, a three-day camping trip to Pikey Peak reveals magnificent panoramas of the eastern Himalayas. Time feels indulgently slow. Browse the library, enjoy candle-lit massages in the Mongolian yurt, or share stories by the roaring fire before a hearty meal by chef Mingmar. The real beauty here is the inherent generosity, charm and kindness of host Ang Tshering and his team, who make guests feel at home from the moment they arrive and ensure their hearts are full by the time they leave. BOOK IT: Rooms from £405 including all activities. happyhousenepal.com

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HIMALAYAN EXPLORATION

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Bikini top and skirt, Matteau @Matches Fashion

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REGENERATION GUIDE Beach-side wellness at St Michaels in Cornwall

THE WELL AT HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA, COSTA RICA

UK BOLTHOLES

Keen hikers will love Buxton Crescent’s super revitalising Peak Health in the Peak District programme (ensanahotels.com). It combines privately guided, invigorating local hikes with altitude-focused treatments at this Georgian masterpiece’s show-stopping spa, which uses mineral-rich Buxton water straight from the ground. Also brilliant for embracing the Great Outdoors is Tudor Farmhouse in the splendid Forest of Dean (tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk). Originally a 13th century working farm and now known for its culinary prowess, this charming boutique hotel offers wonderful forage-then-feast culinary experiences led by impressive names including Liz Knight (one of the country’s top wild food experts) and BBC star and ‘wildlife detective’ Ed Drewitt. Down by the Cornish coast, St Michaels, with its lovely new beach villas and recent addition of a spectacular spa, is pushing the boat out with a series of new coastal wellness retreats – think wild swimming, yoga, paddle boarding and restorative Pilates (stmichaelsresort. com). Or plump for one of Zest Life’s fabulous yoga and wild swimming retreats at stylish country house Plas Cadnant in Anglesey where all your stress is washed away by the crisp, clear waters (thezestlife.co.uk).

BEST FOR: A RAINFOREST SWITCH OFF

As Costa Rica’s jungle wakes up, flocks of birds squabble and squawk. Then the monkeys start: hooting and barking. Welcome to Hacienda AltaGracia in the foothills of the Talamanca Mountains. This is the first international branch of The Well, the acclaimed New York wellness retreat. In the morning, after meditation and yoga classes, walk with knowledgeable guides in ancient cloud forests, sucking in forest air and bathing in crisp river pools. In the afternoons, heated marble slabs warm your muscles before a float in the pool surrounded by greenery or invigorating horseback ride through coffee plantations. By evening, indulge in a massage with wooden tools used by women here for generations. What we need is to unplug from electrics, breathe in forest air and sleep deeply. To live well – which is what The Well is all about. BOOK IT: Doubles from $5,640 for five nights. the-well.com

Find your wild side in Anglesey at Plas Cadnant

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BEST FOR: A GLAMOROUS GREEK ESCAPE

You won’t find a better spot for a sundowner than the Akratos Bar at Santo Maris, with a front seat ticket to the best sunset in town. The approach to wellbeing here is light, bright and breezy with a dash of Santorini rosé. An immaculately whitewashed enclave is nestled among 30 acres of Grecian fig trees, hibiscus, and herb gardens brimming with aloe, thyme and lavender – all of which end up on your plate. Vinyasa and hatha yoga soothe the central nervous system and simple touches in the suites include private hydromassage pools, oil diffusers and journals. The highlight is a five-hour bike ride to the neighbouring island of Thirassia where you can discover smaller, unexplored villages and enjoy a picnic lunch under a tree. Reconnect to both land and sea. BOOK IT: Wellness Suites from € 885 per night, (minimuum four nights). santomaris.gr

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SANTO MARIS OIA LUXURY SUITES & SPA, GREECE

WATER REWILDRESTORE, GREECE Mexican-American artist Patricia Garcia-Gomez shares the restorative powers of the Aegean Sea at RewildRestore. Set amid the unquestionable beauty of Koufonisi, a tiny Cycladic island, this is a place where time seems to slow down and connect you back to yourself. Expect soul-feeding morning swims, adventures to hidden places, time and space to just be, and beautifully fresh Cycladessourced meals. rewildrestore.com

FIRE FIRE CEREMONY – MEA, USA Nestled on the beachfront of Baja, California, the Modern Elder Academy (MEA), the world’s first midlife wisdom school, offers sabbaticals and workshops dedicated to living a life that is as deep, meaningful and purposeful as it is long. Integral to the programmes is the fire ceremony, where students gather around the firepit at sunset to examine their mindsets, habits, obligations and ways of being that no longer serve, before writing down and burning the baggage they want to release. modernelderacademy.com

AIR

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FIND YOUR ELEMENT

THYME, COTSWOLDS Drawing on her years working as an obstetrician, Caryn Hibbert, founder of Thyme, knows just how powerful breathing techniques can be for managing pain and stress. The recently opened Botanical Bothy offers specific treatments combining diaphragmatic breathing, pressurepoint massage and jade combing to destress deeply exhausted bodies and minds. thyme.co.uk

ICE

EARTH HABITAS AIUIA, SAUDI ARABIA Rest comes easily at this pristine 96-room, low impact eco lodge, with tent-like suites snaking along the desert sands, as does pure alchemical nourishment, courtesy of the nearby native Moringa tree whose roots, leaves and seeds continue to nourish the local communities in an area where organic is the only way. Sleeping under those same bright stars that have safely guided the ancient Bedouins, you naturally start to blend into their drumming heartbeat and connect with your spirit. ourhabitas.com

ICE FLOATING, VAL D’ISERE While the Brits have been championing wild swimming, Val d’Isere has taken things one freezing step further with ice floating on the glistening Ouillette Lake. Originated from Finland, this teeth-chattering activity is celebrated for boosting endorphin levels, stimulating blood circulation and relieving pain. Don one of the bright red dry suits (you’ll look like a lobster but it means you don’t feel cold), then slide into the crystalclear waters and float freely while soaking up the spectacular mountain scenery. evolution2.com n

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A GREEN DREAM The Resort Villa in Thailand offers responsible luxury that doesn’t cost the planet

he Resort Villa in Rayong, Thailand, has set the bar high for sustainable luxury stays. Occupying the country’s idyllic east coast, the exquisite private property offers expansive views over the Bay of Thailand. Only available to book exclusively, The Resort Villa features eight separate apartments sleeping up to 16 guests, a home cinema, spa, multiple wraparound infinity pools, over 70 full-time staff and a 15-metre aquarium housing over 800 fish. This private haven bagged accolades at the World Luxury Hotel Awards 2021 and the Seven Stars Luxury Hospitality & Lifestyle Awards 2020.

SUSTAINABLE STAYS The Resort Villa’s core mission is to provide ultra-luxury while remaining sustainable, and offers a unique five-star experience with an eco-twist. A property of its size might otherwise require a significant amount of energy to maintain – it does so in a green fashion by

The villa’s staff are passionate about growing their own ingredients for the kitchen

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investing over a quarter of a million US dollars in a state-of-the-art solar farm at the property. Situated 300 metres away from the facility, and therefore offering no disturbance to guests, it provides all the power required for air conditioning, lights, power and swimming pools across the daytime. All utilities – barring the aquarium, of course – are turned off at night to further conserve energy. The property also has its own vegetable garden, hydroponics system and farm, which provides the freshest organic herbs, fruits, vegetables and eggs to the kitchen each morning. Guests are encouraged to literally put down roots at the villa through planting seeds in the farm and returning later in the year to harvest their own crops. The villa’s water filtration system pushes the self-sustainability mission further, as it eliminates the use of plastic water bottles. Guests are even provided with bamboo cotton buds and toothbrushes. ‘We believe it’s entirely possible to enjoy luxury at its finest while staying environmentally aware and responsible at the same time,’ says The Resort Villa’s General Manager, Benjamin Tellenbach. ‘In addition to the solar farm, we’ve cleaned up nearby beaches and installed anchoring points to protect coral reefs in the harbour. As a result, when guests join us at The Resort Villa, they automatically become a part of this green movement.’

The Resort Villa is powered by its own solar farm

SERENITY SPA Central to The Resort Villa’s luxurious facilities is its Serenity Spa, which offers a range of holistic treatments inspired by the history and culture of the East. The traditional Thai massage incorporates a combination of point pressure, energy meridian work, and yoga-like stretching for an invigorating and balancing experience, while the Maya abdominal massage has its roots in Taoist healing, and is said to boost fertility.

FIVE-STAR DINING Laurent Renaud, The Resort Villa’s head chef, is passionate about the use of hyperlocal ingredients, many of which are sourced from the property’s own vegetable garden and farm. Through these, he creates a range of authentic Thai and international dishes, from poolside snacks to banquets in the beautiful dining rooms. Private label wines are sourced from a carefully selected winery in New Zealand, and produced directly for The Resort Villa. But there is a further selection of local and international bottles available to choose from, and speciality wines are sourced upon guest request.

UNIQUE ADVENTURES Whether you’re a keen paddle boarder or love to soak up culture, The Resort Villa’s dedicated team is on hand to keep you entertained. Explore local temples with an expert guide, or hike through barely touched Thai rainforest in search of tucked away waterfalls. Visit and discover the diverse Thai wildlife, and spot wild elephants, turtles and bats around the gulf of the country. Or how about a cruise on a private yacht around the nearby neighbouring islands of Koh Samed and Koh Chang? It’s the perfect opportunity to discover a side of Thailand many visitors never get to see – and all from the comfort of your own private piece of paradise. For more information visit theresortvilla.com

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MINDFUL MOVEMENT Align body, breath and inner healing at Mandali, Italy’s newest retreat centre, says Anna Pasternak

y the time you reach Mandali, high on the edge of the Italian mountains overhanging Lago d’Orta, you feel as if you have ascended into heaven. It’s like staying at an exclusive eagle’s eerie, where everything is geared towards tangible spirituality. It’s not just the welcoming stone walkway studded with amethysts, or the monastic chic of your room but the intention of the Dutch owners embedded in the architectural vision. This isn’t a mere yoga or meditation centre with sensational views. Energetically, it’s a container – a brilliantly conceived space – where you choose your own experience to aid reconnection to your light. My inner pilot light was sputtering when I arrived; menopause had crushed me with its relentless, sleepless, sweat-filled nights. Here, you are instantly grounded, while the magic of the space – all birdsong and chiming church bells – holds you. We were encouraged to listen within and do whatever we required to drop into ourselves. The daily schedule offers morning vinyasa yoga, meditation, and afternoon restorative yin yoga, with Qigong, sound baths, sound healing and mantra singing, slotted in between. But if you want to diverge from the routine, walk out of a class, lie down if tired, or take a swim and a sauna, the idea is to do what feels natural to you. The only prescriptive element was to follow your own lead. The liberation of this alone had the greatest impact

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workers like Alexander Sohn, who tunes into your body’s frequency to remedy its optimum vibration through sound, or gentle, profound shiatsu with Tiziana, we did the real healing ourselves. They helped us shift the emotional gunk. Through the stillness and my strengthened awareness, I listened keenly to myself and knew exactly what I needed to return to alignment. Admittedly, sometimes the group felt too large at 40 guests. Yet the layered holistic approach and the physicality of the yoga, which so profoundly affects both mind and heart, left me with a joyous inner lightness that felt all my own. I recalibrated my inner frequency, soothed my erratic hormones and slept like a log. The real homecoming was not returning to home soil, but to the newly refreshed version of myself. BOOK IT: A six-night Mandali Experience Retreat costs from €1,344pp full board in a lake view room. mandali.org

on me. When I left yoga mid-class on the last day because my body needed a rest, it felt like a massive breakthrough. Finally, I was heeding my own wisdom, not relying on others’ opinions or external authority. Every day, morning yoga and breakfast is held in silence. To prolong internal questing beyond 9.30am, we wore ‘In Silence’ badges. Some stayed in silence the whole week; I dipped in and out. It was a joy not to have to engage in sapping mindless chatter at mealtimes. The vegetarian and vegan buffet meals were outstanding. A kaleidoscopic feast of colour and vibrancy. The ethos is nurture and nourishment, without the slightest whiff of punitive deprivation. While there are gifted energy

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Nurture and nourishment leads Mandali’s culinary ethos

Take time to sink into yourself at Mandali

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Make a mountain backdrop at Alpina Gstaad

THE INSIDER ADDRESSES

THE HOTLIST Book into the secret gem that is The Coach House Retreat for personalised yin yoga with Olivia Clarke and exceptional body treatments (thecoachhouseretreat.co.uk). A twobedroom bolthole in Wales, it’s the ultimate reset, with catered meals and beautiful walks. Speaking of which, watch out for Hill Yoga breaks with Amber Scott at Trasierra (trasierra. com). Two classes a day, hill walking and Spanish sunshine. Further afield, Koh Samui’s Absolute Sanctuary offers a host of daily yoga and Pilates classes, amazing paper-light food and top-level treatments all at exceptionally good value – think £15 for an hour of reflexology (absolutesanctuary.com).

KEEP ON MOVING

THE QIGONG TO LU JONG CRAZE

THE PRACTICE

THE HUMAN METHOD The Human Method, brainchild of the beautifully intuitive Nahid de Belgeonne (above), transforms the health of anyone burnt out or dealing with stress and anxiety. Blending yoga flow, somatic movements and restorative poses with breathing techniques and meditation, this revolutionary system harmonises your nervous system and reboots brainto-body communication. thehumanmethod.co.uk

THE FLOW

MOVEMENT FOR MODERN LIFE

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Kat Farrants is passionate about making yoga accessible for everyone. Subscribe and you’ll never look back. This is the Netflix of yoga – there are classes for everything – neck ache, anxiety, the menopause, pregnancy as well as the new series ‘Ageless Movement’, designed to see you through midlife and quite literally regenerate your cells. movementformodernlife.com

THE STUDIO: LOVE SUPREME PROJECTS Londoners, listen up. Love Supreme Projects, on buzzy Golborne Road, is causing a stir with its inspired yoga, meditation and dance classes. While all the usual suspects are here, get out of your comfort zone and try the likes of Jivamukti yoga, kirtan chanting and ‘Enlightened Electro’ and disco dancing. lovesupremeprojects.com n

Developed thousands of years ago as part of traditional Chinese medicine, Qigong uses meditation, controlled breathing and f low ing movements to lessen stress and anxiety, increase focus and Katie Brindle is the improve balance and founder of Hayo’uFit flexibility – all without sprains or strains. Just ask practitioner Katie Brindle, who started streaming her morning Qigong practise to her Instagram followers in the first lockdown. It was such a success that she launched Hayo’uFit – now the UK’s leading online Qigong platform (hayoufit.com). Or head to the spa stars – Italy’s Lefay Resorts (lefayresorts.com) or Switzerland’s Alpina Gstaad (thealpinagstaad.ch) – both offer group classes. Meanwhile, for something truly unique, Malabar Retreats run date-led immersive retreats centred on learning Lu Jong (Tibetan healing yoga) and held in Greece, Mozambique and founder Bibi Schofield’s glorious home in Zimbabwe (malabar-retreats.com). Meditate under the moon while lions roar.

Meditation with a view at Malabar Retreats

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BR AIN SPACE

‘I

’ve tried varying forms of meditation over the years but none has ever progressed beyond the initial love affair. To everything there is a season. Or at least, that is what I used to think, before I discovered Vedic meditation, as taught by Jillian Lavender and Michael Miller of the London Meditation Centre. When Jillian told me as easily as the sky is blue, ‘You do the course and then you do the meditation for the rest of your life’, I laughed, nervously. It sounded more long-standing than my marriage. Meditating not just once, but twice a day, for 20 minutes a pop? Surely impossible? But if I have learnt anything from the heartache of endings, it is that they can also provide a portal to determinedly

remould ourselves. After several tipping point moments, including an evening spent shouting at my ten-year-old daughter for losing her school uniform (I am convinced she will mention it in therapy in years to come), I decided it was time to make time to create time for a better time for me. Less panic, more calm. As Michael says, ‘Everyone who learns to meditate does so because they want to change.’ And so I found myself in London for four afternoon slots of carefully calibrated lessons in the art and science of Vedic meditation. Dating back to the ancient Sanskrit scriptures of India, the Vedas (which formed the foundation of Ayurveda, yoga and vast swathes of Eastern philosophy)

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Learn one of the world’s oldest meditation techniques and you’ll find the space to effect real change. Daisy Finer discovers mental magic at the London Meditation Centre

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Jillian Lavender and Michael Miller run the London Meditation Centre

of something bigger than my own solo performance. And I find reassurance in knowing that wherever I may be, however I may feel – I have a safety raft to jump on. Vedic meditation is a powerful reminder that however hard the storms rage, however dark things may seem, our inner essence – the spirit of the divine inside us – remains the most steadfast light of all. Sometimes I think all the rest of it is just a theatre of lessons guiding us towards the fullness of ourselves. Michael is fond of saying, ‘It is always possible to find something else to do, but there is never anything better to do.’ I couldn’t agree more. Jai guru deva om. NEED TO KNOW: The first step is

to join a one-hour Intro to Vedic Meditation talk. From there you can sign up for the course which is taught in-person in London over four days — each session is about two hours. The cost of the course is based on a sliding scale according to circumstances, with payment plans available. Once you have learnt, you will be invited on numerous retreats from the UK to the source of the tradition in Rishikesh. You can also refresh your learnings with Jillian’s bestselling book Why Meditate? Because It Works (Hodder & Stoughton, £16.99). londonmeditationcentre.com

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Vedic meditation is a methodology that has been passed down for thousands of years. In honour of the masters who have been before, the course begins ceremoniously, with an offering, incense, chanting and an invocation on our knees. Sometimes I think the smell of sandalwood could convert me to anything. But there is nothing religious or cultish about the process – it’s all about setting the intent. Each participant is then taken individually into a separate room and given a mantra – a single, treasured, subtle, meaningless sound which you do not utter aloud or share, but use as a vibrational thread upon which to weave your practice. What I like about Vedic meditation is that beyond the prescribed twice daily routine, there are so few rules. You can do it anywhere, you don’t have to sit bolt upright, you don’t need any tools (alarms to mark the time are actively discouraged), and you can – and should – be sloppy with your mantra; it has a tendency to go off-piste. While transcendence, that blissful lake state of the mind, is a legitimate experience, it is not the goal. As a perfectionist, I try to remind myself to let go. Forget being in charge, instead, simply be. Michael is a wise and witty teacher – ‘If you’re gritting your teeth and sweating bullets you’re doing it wrong.’ The course isn’t just a lesson in how to meditate, but also why, which is very much a lived experience – the benefits revealing themselves subtly but powerfully within even a few days. Studies show that this type of meditation is five times more restful than sleep (yes, you read that correctly). As the mind settles, the body falls into unprecedented rest. During this process, obstructions to the purity of consciousness leave your system – stress, anxiety, worry – all wave their goodbyes (I even pictured lorries driving straight towards me) and Jillian and Michael reassure that if you are thinking, you are simply witnessing an active purification process. After five months of practice and having missed only a handful (it’s all in the planning), meditation is now for me the bedrock of my daily sanity. I don’t think any area of my life is unaffected. I sleep better, I play better, I work better, I eat better, I think better, maybe, even, I am a better person? I certainly feel to be operating from a place of self-assured inner knowing with a greater sense of trust in myself and my own life navigation skills. Joining Jillian and Michael’s online weekly gatherings helps me to feel a part

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THE CENTRE

DZOGCHEN BEARA The land where Europe meets the Atlantic on which Dzogchen Beara retreat was built is a ‘power place’ of renewal and healing. Everyone who visits comments on the extraordinary atmosphere of peace shrouding these simple white buildings, perched on Ireland’s Beara Peninsula. In this environment of deep spiritual ritual, compassion comes centre stage as every practice begins with a wish to benefit others. The centre offers daily drop-in guided meditations (in person and online) along with onsite retreats. Stay either in the hostel, spiritual care centre, or one of the three cottages overlooking the wild Atlantic. Hike or curl up by a wood-burning stove, watching the ever-changing light on the waves below. Leave in harmony with yourself and the world. dzogchenbeara.org

HEALTHY MIND...

THE SAGE

CORNELIUS O’SHAUGHNESSY

THE INSIDE TRACK

HOW TO BEAT BRAIN FOG Professor James Goodwin’s advice to combat brain fog includes lowering calorie intake, avoiding a sugar rush, exercising consistently, sleeping deeply and visiting a sauna two to three times a week. Discover more tips on the Brain Health Network, a digital platform which provides advice from the world’s leading brain health experts to help lower neurodegenerative diseases and keep ageing brains healthy. For example, did you know that, at any age, your memory will be better if you are sexually active? No excuses. brain.health

Influenced by Buddhism, Advaita Vedanta, Sufism and Mystical Christianity, Cornelius O’Shaughnessy is an experienced meditation, stress management and Eastern philosophy teacher. This guru in a hoodie and tracksuit has that rare gift of meeting people where they are at, whether it’s a global CEO or a 12-year-old child. After suffering a severe breakdown at 21, O’Shaughnessy lived through many years of treatment resistant depression. In 2007 he underwent a powerful awakening in India: ‘Looking out over the rice fields at Arunachala in Tiruvannamalai I realised that life was doing what life was doing and I was a speck of dust screaming about it. I just let go of the feeling that anything needed to change and started to show up with less desire and more peace.’ With our world in deep flux, his path of wisdom begins with acceptance. One-to-one guidance and UK retreats available. bodhimaya.com

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THE BOOK

THE SUPPLEMENT

INDI Fight fatigue and find focus with plantbased powder Indi Mind. Add a heaped scoop to almond milk and discover a sweet, fragrantly floral afternoon uplift, complete with Haskap Berries (containing four times the anthocyanins of blueberries), magnesium, Coenzyme Q10, beetroot, Lion’s Mane mushroom and cocoa. £45, indisupplements.com

THE AWAKENED BRAIN by Dr Lisa Miller Clinical psychology professor Dr Lisa Miller, founder of the Spirituality Mind Body Institute at Columbia University, guides us through the science of spirituality and shows us how to enhance our mental health through a life filled with greater meaning and contribution. (Allen Lane, £20) n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 131

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W E L L N E S S A-T E A M The transformation specialists to dial-up for extra A-grade support NUTRITION FOR ADOLESCENTS

TRAUMA RELEASE

CHARLOTTE FRASER

STEVE HAINES

When you need a massage to feel more like a return to source, call Sarah Jane Watson to your London abode. Sarah’s signature approach is a soothing, compassionate melody which powerfully transports you back to self. Expect a transformative treatment which takes you beyond intellect, where moments of stillness further define the movement, and where the body is treated with reverence as a vessel for the soul. Authentic, soothing, masterful. From £450. sarahjwatson.com

With a brilliant ability to get behind your teenager’s emotional wall indirectly, Charlotte Fraser is a natropathic nutritionist and founder of the Whole Student Progamme. Conducted electronically with no scary forms or waiting rooms, consultations integrate quick and fun online cognitive performance assessments – this is not an IQ test, it’s about finding the ‘nutritional gaps’ for teenage problems as varied as acne, anxiety, stress, sleep and low moods. Charlotte then offers invaluable advice often prescribing, in the shortterm, supplements for therapeutic effect. A lifeline for worried mothers. Four-month core nutrition programme from £330. naturopathic-nutrition.com

A chiropractor and author of the award-winning Anxiety is Really Strange (Singing Dragon, £13.99), Steve Haines is changing the way we deal with stress through tension and trauma-releasing exercises. It’s a reboot to the nervous system, using a simple set of seven selfhealing exercises which set up natural tremor mechanisms inside the body to create new neural pathways and switch off the threat detector inside you. Result: significantly reduce stress, anxiety and pain in just ten minutes. Skip off grounded and fully connected. From £140. bodycollege.net

BUSINESS ALCHEMY

ANDREW WALLAS If you are stuck in a professional rut, witty psychotherapist Andrew Wallas is the man to re-set your business mojo. This engaging corporate shaman blends his fastpaced City life with a more spiritual and considered excavation of your subconscious blocks to prosperity, drilling down to discover the soul of your business, illuminating the hidden shadow dynamics and together setting the intention for how to maximise full potential. Priced individually. andrewwallas.org CELESTIAL SUPPORT

DEBBIE FRANK Legendary astrologer Debbie Frank’s searing intuition maps out your soul’s journey and her lyrical words resonate to your core – personalised readings are heaven sent. A gifted herbalist and homeopath, she also creates bespoke remedies which work with your subtle energy fields to bring you back into alignment, banish Covid symptoms, cool hormonal hot flush inner fires and soothe anxiety. Some of her esoteric remedies have been channelled from sacred sites, works of art and even the planets and cosmos. Stellar indeed. £180 for an hour-long reading. debbiefrank.com

NATURAL SKIN AESTHETICS

JO AKINLOYE A glowing advert for her trade, Jo Akinloye is a trained nurse whose expert approach is drawing the country set to her idyllic, flower-strewn clinic near Malmesbury, while she also runs remote clinics in Ramsbury and Marylebone. Her discreet treatments, which range from Profhilo to the Golden Glow facial, are all about skin rejuvenation. Try the ultimate in non-surgical face lifts, the skin tightening and lifting ULTRAcel Q+. Kickstarts fresh collagen and elastin. ULTRAcel Q, from £480. naturalfaceaesthetics.com EMOTIONAL RECOGNITION

TOVE FRISVOLD Psychotherapist Tove Frisvold, or ‘The Elder’ as some of her clients call her, helps you to clean up your past, your relationships with others and your sense of self. She’s all about recognising and understanding our hidden emotions and the invisible walls we put in place to survive. Professional but unconventional, she’s the perfect mix of sparkle and seriousness. If you’re dealing with grief, potential divorce, debt, narcissism, midlife blues? Join her secret inner circle. Priced individually. Email tf@amberbridge.co.uk

FUTURISTIC HEALTH MOT

DR SABINE DONNAI Founder of London clinic VIAVI, the world’s top health assessment service, Dr Sabine offers a serious appraisal, fusing cutting-edge science with a variety of disciplines to understand absolutely everything about your health. Think cardiovascular, cancer, nutrient absorption, musculoskeletal, DNA profiling, in-depth cognitive testing, brain mapping and more. The end result is a super-personalised 12-month health strategy. From £13,500. viavi.com THE HEALTH DE-CODER

PIPPA CAMPBELL Dreaming of more energy, confidence and sleep? Wondering what’s happened to your thighs since the perimenopause? This is your woman. A superstar at creating the perfect landscape for your hormones to find their balance, Pippa is a pioneering Nutrigenomics practitioner and Functional Nutrition expert with an interest in female health, metabolic balance and brain function. Using the results of cutting-edge DNA testing, Pippa develops plans with recipes to suit your unique biochemistry. From £225 for an initial consultation. pippacampbellhealth.com n

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THE ART OF TOUCH

SARAH WATSON

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INTERIORS Edited by Carole Annett

Take it Lying Down Designed for Ego Paris by Thomas Sauvage, there’s no doubt these Tandem sunloungers were built for two. Foot massage, anyone? leisureplan.co.uk

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INTERIORS | News JUNGLE DRAMA Tropical paradise wall hanging by Jan Constantine. £925, janconstantine.com

RUN FOR FUN No Straight Lines by K&H Design flat weave wool runners in 11 different colourways. Stocked by Peter Page, pricing starts at £347 per linear metre. peterpage.com

SOMETHING FISHY The Soho Lighting Company Ocean collection comprises recycled plastic and discarded fishing net. Caspian emerald fluted pendant. £580, soholighting.com

Design NOTES All the latest news from the interiors world. By Carole Annett

SWEETEST DREAMS

Yves Delorme Flores bedlinen collection, 100 per cent organic cotton sateen. King duvet cover, £369, uk.yvesdelorme.com

OLDER AND WISER

Carl Hansen & Son is relaunching the Windsor by Frits Henningsen in a light, medium and smoked oak with optional matching leather cushion. From £1,590. carlhansen.com

FASHION’S NEW FLAME Grand Bougeoir candlestick, £320, by Pierre Yovanovitch for Dior Maison. dior.com

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FOLLOW THE IN-CROWD

Kate Loudoun Shand created textile designs and homeware for clients including the V&A, Anthropologie and Kate Spade before setting up her own studio. Wallpapers from £160 per roll. kateloudounshand.com

WON’T BE LONGUE Chaise Longue in Sunbrella Mineral Blue by Hevingham. £3,580, heveningham.co.uk

DOUBLE ACT

FLOWER POWER Paper Icelandic poppy designed by Emmeli Kimhi at Kip Kiosk. £25 each, kiphideaways.com

Interior designer Sophie Paterson joins forces with Andrew Martin for an outdoor cushion collection in four colours. Apulia, £89, andrewmartin.co.uk DON’T BE SQUARE Organic stripe Anderson footstool, brown, £1,295 at Arlo and Jacob. arloandjacob.com

LAZE AND GRAZE Cuba garden bistro set. £199, barkerandstonehouse.co.uk

SLIMMERS’ WORLD TM Lighting’s Slim Light Pro has a 19mm diameter body and glare control ensuring the light doesn’t distract from artwork. From £350, tmlighting.com July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 137

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INTERIORS | Focus 1

EAT OUT

Picnic perfect

Liga Fish trivet, £18. loveliga.co.uk

Symple Stuff Mason glass jar set, £59.99. wayfair.co.uk

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

‘Live in the sunshine, swim in the sea, drink the wild air’ – Ralph Waldo Emerson Cultiver Linen napkins from £45, cultivergoods.co.uk

Monogrammed Linen Demoiselle tea towel, £39.95. monogrammedlinenshop.com

1 Hartley Botanic Victorian terrace greenhouse, £POA. hartley-botanic.co.uk 2 Neptune Cheltenham bench with cushion, £800. neptune.com 3 Thomas Sauvage Tandem sunlounger, from £2,325. leisureplan. co.uk 4 Soho Home reimagines outdoor living, including Johanna sofa, £8,995, Rina concrete coffee table, £550 and Gilberto chair, £1,295. sohohome.com 5 Gaze Burvill Curved Splash lounge seat, from £6,525 to £10,175 per section (five in photo), table £6,525. gazeburvill.com

Porter Green Unbreakable, silicon wine glass, set of two, £22. quinceandcook

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INTERIORS | Trend GERGEI ERDEI Greco placemat. £40, gergeierdei.com RAJ TENT CLUB Terracotta lamp. £190, rajtentclub.com JENNIFER MANNERS Chevron Marigold rug. From £1,512, jennifermanners.co.uk

FARROW & BALL Faded Terracotta. From £29, farrow-ball.com

SUMMER SCENTS Fill the air

ABIGAIL AHERN Corma mango wood chair. £650, abigailahern.com

Brighter Days

Whether you’re jetting to the Italian riviera or not, seek inspiration from la dolce vita this summer, says Tallulah Rushaya BUCHANAN STUDIO Stripe Two Ochre fabric. £120 p/m, buchanan.studio

GRAHAM & GREEN Marigold parasol. £475, grahamandgreen.co.uk JONATHAN ADLER Riviera Candle Holders set of two. £325, jonathan adler.com

1 SELFRIDGES Ginori 1735 L’Amazzone Red Clay. £345, selfridges.com

LIGNE ROSET Taru chaise. From £3,494 and Taru footstool. From £861, ligne-roset.com

2 NEOM ORGANICS Real Luxury Home Mist. £22, neomorganics.com SOUS CHEF Handmade Tuscan lemon bowl 35cm. £199, souschef.co.uk

3 STORIES OF ITALY Macchia Su Macchia Murano Flora scented candle. £155, koibird.com

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MODERN KITCHEN FURNITURE

88A Acre Lane, London, SW2 5QN

Pluck Country1 and Townhouse 225x298mm.indd 1 Pluck.indd

020 7095 1795

pluck.co.uk

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INTERIORS | Case Study

‘The couple expressed a wish to create something EXTR AORDINARY and specifically asked me to CHALLENGE them with concepts that had ORIGINALITY and a REBELLIOUS spirit’

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AN ARTIST’S EYE

Regenerating a post-war house into an art lover’s home. By Tessa Dunthorne

ABOVE: Interior designer Anouska Tamony and art consultant Rachel Maggart

rom the moment she saw it, art consultant Rachel Maggart was enamoured by this four-storey terraced house that sits alongside Victoria Park in east London. The building had been destroyed in the Blitz in World War Two and then, decades later, reassembled from the rubble. It presented the perfect opportunity to create a beautiful mid-century home, fitted with the trappings of smart technology (a nod to her techy husband), while also acknowledging the past. Working with Anouska Tamony Designs, Rachel transformed the house from a previously minimal space into a striking home that also showcases her collection of contemporary art. Enter the home and you are immediately greeted by a maze of colours, textures and patterns – a visual feast both modern and exciting, each corner vibrant and unique. Antiques are carefully curated, intermixed with custom metal hardware for light fittings, switches and blinds. Though the space does not quite edge into maximalism, it rejects simplicity. ‘The couple expressed a wish to create something extraordinary and specifically asked me to challenge them with concepts that had originality and a rebellious spirit,’ explains interior designer Anouska. ‘For Rachel, there was a core desire to turn the space into a private gallery with artworks that reflect her and her husband’s diverse interests, even if in an oblique way.’ Another essential consideration was sustainability. ‘The building and construction sector is one of the largest contributors to global CO2 emissions,’ continues Anouska. ‘Many of us in the industry are trying to strike a balance between personalising homes as comfortable, functional spaces – an energy expounding process – while choosing elements that offset this and are kinder to the earth.’ A collaboration with Tara Craig at Ensemblier was vital for making planet-first design decisions. A bespoke headboard was made for the master bedroom using traditional methods and materials like wool and horsehair, while antique Japanese obi silk was repurposed for the bed’s dressings. Choosing second hand pieces became essential for bringing this previously rubbled house to life. But the house is truly made personal through its art. Anouska placed Rachel’s collected works in spaces where they could invoke both sentiment and excitement: a Phyllida Barlow print gifted by family and friends, for example, was placed in her son’s bedroom. New commissions also adorn the house and speak of Rachel’s search for the extraordinary in the ordinary – such as a handpainted fridge by Mena Woolfe, which repurposes an otherwise boring but functional domestic appliance into an objet d’art. Transformative has to be the word to describe this reborn home. From a rubble-strewn bombsite has arisen a striking modern house, its latest iteration a memorable reflection of its new inhabitants. n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 143

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Randle’s favourite piece, Henry Moore’s Large Interior Form, on display at Hauser & Wirth, Somerset

ON GOOD FORM

Randle Siddeley makes the case for adding a sculpture to your garden

f you want a real treat this summer, head for Hauser & Wirth, near Bruton in Somerset, for a spectacular exhibition of Henry Moore sculpture. Sharing Form is a comprehensive survey spanning six decades of Moore’s work. It is curated by Hannah Higham of the Henry Moore Foundation in collaboration with the artist’s daughter Mary Moore. This major exhibition runs until early September across all five gallery spaces, and what inspired me most was how the sculptures transformed the surrounding landscape. It will make any visitor with a garden long for one of their own. Although we clearly can’t all stretch to a Henry Moore, I’ve always loved situating sculpture in landscape and have worked with many artists over the years. In fact, I bought a beautiful piece at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show to sit among a grove of Betula nigra trees in a client’s garden. Dancers, by Jack Eagan, was in the Perennial Garden ‘With Love’ by Richard Miers. The garden should have had a gold medal but instead won the People’s Choice Award, cocking a snook at the judges only awarding it a silver. I was really taken with Jack’s abstract revolving bronze, with its intertwining of elegant shapes echoing the garden’s loving theme. It even has an uplit base for maximum impact at night. I’ve also bought a verdigris Apple by James Parker for the development

FROM TOP: Standing in Locking Piece; Apple by James Parker

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Gardening | INTERIORS

I’m working on at Hedsor Wharf. Apple will sit on an exposed travertine marble square base in an orchard between a bridge over the water and a path that meanders between a beautiful avenue of cylindrical Liquidambars. These sculptural trees, with deep red leaves in autumn, act as conical columns to complement the apple’s rounded, sensuous plumpness. James states that Apple is one of his most sought-after pieces and it comes in slate, bronze or mirror polished stainless steel – and in any size. ‘In the ancient world, the apple is one of the most sacred trees and symbolises good health and future happiness,’ he says. I’m confident the two sculptures will add an extra dimension to both gardens, particularly after seeing the impact of the Henry Moores on the landscape at Hauser & Wirth. I enjoyed a wonderful day there, which included an excellent lunch at the Roth Bar & Grill, designed by architect Luis Laplace, which combines the freshest seasonal food with contemporary art. At the restaurant’s heart is a bar created by Björn and Oddur Roth, the son and grandson of artist Dieter Roth. There is also a farm shop selling organic local produce but the Moores on their own are well worth the trip. The Arch, which Moore created between 1963 and 1969, is exceptional and the imagination and scale of what he designed gave me goose pimples. As I walked around this vast fibreglass arch, inspired by Stonehenge, I felt I was in the presence of pure genius. Its dimensions and the way its soaring white columns caught the light were awe-inspiring in the green landscape. In fact, the entire exhibition takes as its starting point the artist’s early fascination with Stonehenge and his exploration of the upright abstract form. Moore first encountered the prehistoric monuments under the moonlight as a young man in 1921 and then 51 years later embarked on a series of lithographs on the subject. The Workshop Gallery features Moore’s Stonehenge etchings and lithographs, dating from 1972. In these works, Moore continues to explore the relationship of the stones to each other and to the spectator. Moore was fascinated by the relationship between the towering masses of ancient stone and their size and situation in the landscape. The power and intensity of such large forms set against land and sky and the juxtaposition of art and nature are echoed in his work throughout this phenomenal exhibition. I also loved the epic bronze Locking Piece, created in 1962 and cast in 1963. Every element changes as you walk around it and the contrast between the linear elements and the curving, reflective surfaces makes you just want to nestle into it. But perhaps my favourite work of all was the earlier Large Interior Form, just a short walk across the lawn. Its sinuous form soars skywards and the way it appears to lean back to embrace the elements gives it a sense of supple vulnerability alongside its towering power. Henry Moore: Sharing Form is at Hauser & Wirth until 4 September 2022. hauserwirth.com; randlesiddeley.co.uk n

Dancers by Jack Eagan, in the Perennial Garden ‘With Love’ by Richard Miers at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in May

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Some furniture is made for the here and now. Some is built to stand the test of time. At Neptune, we believe that the best can do both. Good design never grows old.

neptune.com

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HOTELS&

TR AVEL Wet & Wild

Caiti Grove heads to Estonia to discover a Scandi-esque landscape of serene wilderness, secretive peat bogs and rejuvenating sauna culture

Bogshoeing in Soomaa National Park

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‘F

FROM TOP: Exploring the wilderness requires all the right kit; the sun rises over the national park; get up close in a canoe; picking cranberries by the handful

rubdown with salt and more whisking, we cover ourselves in honey and reflect on ourselves – old habits and past relationships, the need to honour them and leave them behind. We take turns to lie down for an individual session of birch tree whipping at Eda’s own expert hand, British embarrassment a distant memory. To finish we blow through mint leaves, breathing new, invigorated energy into our renewed souls. Almost five hours after arriving we retreat to the changing cabin to get dressed. A newly risen moon shines down on the still water outside. Eda presents a jar of clear liquid with an adder at the bottom and hands it round to drink. Adders are protected now but this antique one will, so says folklore, give us protection and strength. We leave feeling elated and exhausted. The next day we venture out to Soomaa National Park in the south west of Estonia, where forest surrounds a wide expanse of squidgy moss. Soomaa means ‘land of bogs’ and this 40ft deep peat bog was created 10,000 years ago when trees decayed into the earth. The present-day trees

PHOTOS: PATRIK TAMM; ARON URB; SVEN ZACEK; DANEL RINALDO

rom the bottom to the brain,’ I chant, whisking my naked back with a bunch of birch leaves. Next to me, two journalists I’ve just met do the same, low lighting and a hammam towel upholding some dying embers of British prudishness. We all wear felted hats the shape of cones in different colours. Eda Veeroja, proprietor of this sauna in Estonia, leads our group as we lash our bodies. The idea is to transfer our thoughts back into our conscious minds, to be more balanced and happy. ‘The sauna is our chapel,’ Eda explains. She begins to beat a drum to summon her ancestors’ spirits from the woods around us, and encourages us to call ours too. We are sitting in a cabin made of logs; a fire has been burning wood for six hours, heating a pile of rocks. Smoke escapes from these and gathers on the ceiling. The sauna is a tradition of Old Võromaa that dates from the 13th century, now on the UNESCO-protected list of ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’. As the eldest woman in her family, Eda inherited the right to lead women’s sessions 20 years ago. Mixed groups come here too before a wedding or funeral or during a divorce to cleanse the soul and spirit, smoke out the old entangled self and start anew. It starts with cleansing, a series of chants and songs led by Eda. She sings in her mother tongue, Võru, songs of sadness and hope to call upon our ancestors for guidance. Every half an hour, a nude dip in the big pond outside – a chilly 12°C – gives a euphoric high after the 80°C humidity inside. Post swim, I run, freezing, back into the warm embrace of the sauna. This carries on in a loop for hours, intending to invigorate the soul ready for the challenges life brings. After cleansing, the second section focuses on creativity, remembrance or resilience. After a

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Estonia | HOTELS & TRAVEL are sparse – it is too acidic for them, really – but cranberries grow by the handful while the peat beneath absorbs millions of tonnes of carbon every year into the springy earth. Rewilding is in full swing in this unique wetland wilderness. Previously drained, the uniqueness of this land is now celebrated and Estonia is returning the bogs to their natural soggy state. Like in Ireland and elsewhere, locals did use peat as fire fuel but with more widespread concerns for climate change it’s become a practice of the past. Expert and tour guide for this wilderness Aivar Ruukel helps us wrestle our boots into snowshoes and don waterproof camo and sticks to prepare to tackle the murky terrain ahead. Walking through the forest we spot Disneyesque little red mushrooms with white spots and deer that run hesitantly into the bracken. The forest of spruce, birch and aspen stops at the edge of the bog to reveal a huge expanse of flat, textural soft moss. It squishes and compresses under foot while more cranberries grow beside a big marshy lagoon. The treeless landscape, combined with the silence and the jelly-like ground underfoot, gives the whole place a magical aura, as though spirits really do live here. Maybe Eda is right after all. Afterwards we drive across to the riverbank where lunch on the bank of the Navasti river awaits us – a traditional barley porridge dish laden with bacon and cheese. Afterwards, we kayak down the river past woods and fields and a few ramshackled saunas on the banks at either side. ‘Look at a map,’ insists Aivar – ‘you are not in “Eastern Europe”. We are a Nordic country, our roots are one with our Scandinavian and Finnish neighbours.’ It’s true – but we and Estonia cannot ignore its neighbour to the East, an aggressor all too near. But the country has been a NATO member since 2004, and an enthusiastic member of the European Union ever since a convincing referendum in 2004. It may have to rely on its solid alliances with Europe as protection from

FROM TOP: The sauna tradition in Estonia is now on a UNESCO heritage list; beautiful Tallinn, the capital of Estonia; biking up to Hedon Spa & Hotel in Pärnu

PHOTOS: PATRIK TAMM; ARON URB; SVEN ZACEK; DANEL RINALDO

Russian expansionism in the coming years. Returning from the bogs and thoughts of conflict, we head to the Hedon Spa & Hotel in nearby city Pärnu where minimalist rooms look out to a beach and the Baltic Sea beyond. In the hotel’s Restaurant Raimond, the à la carte menu reveals the country’s modern palate; trout with pak choi and oysters, wild deer sirloin, Jerusalem artichoke ice cream. Edible flowers and cloudberries sit atop dishes – it’s all very Michelin and considered. Estonia is a place where old meets new. Tradition, folklore and a deep connection to nature sit alongside modern cuisine and innovative new thinking for the country’s future. Simply put, it’s perfect for your next travel destination. BOOK IT: Sauna experience is € 250 for up to eight people (mooska.eu). Wilderness trip, € 95 for canoeing and bog-shoeing (soomaa.com). Hedon Spa & Hotel, from £70 B&B (hedonspa.com). n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 149

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SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL MADE EASY

For many of us, our travel plans are increasingly motivated by a desire to reduce our carbon footprint and to look after the destination we are visiting and its local community. According to Booking.com’s latest sustainability report, 83 per cent of global travellers think that sustainable travel is vital. But with the rise of eco-tourism becoming such big business for hotels, tour operators and tourist attractions, sometimes telling the green from the ‘greenwash’ is easier said than done. Enter Flockeo. The creation of French social enterprise Murmuration, this newly launched community platform makes things a breeze for travellers to calculate their environmental footprint, get in touch with sustainable tourism professionals, and choose eco destinations via an interactive map that combines satellite and statistical data. The map itself provides lots of info about each region – from the ecosystem potential to the risks related to water and urbanisation – and to boot, this data provides a clear picture of the challenges and opportunities that exist in certain areas while also monitoring progress over time to ensure that sustainable tourism practices are actually having the desired effect. flockeo.com

The ESCAPIST Slow and sustainable. Lauren Ho on what’s hot in travel right now

Brush up your photography skills with Don McCullin

TRAVELLING IN GOOD COMPANY

SWISSTAINABILITY

With the ambition to become the most eco destination in the world, Switzerland is taking things to the next level with its new sustainability strategy, Swisstainable. It includes a number of initiatives such as trafficfree destinations (the country already has 11 car-free resorts), promoting green accommodation, and – in boasting the highest spending per capita on organic products in the world – championing conscious consumption. Elsewhere, the country has a number of Swisstainable assets too, such as Europe’s first house to be heated using hydroelectric power, which is located above the Grimsel glacier. myswitzerland.com

Reimagining travel through a new and exciting lens, The Luminaire creates individually crafted journeys around the world of depth and enlightenment, led by a collection of preeminent experts from naturalists to historians and archaeologists. Among this so-called ‘Guild’ of thinkers is renowned photographer Don McCullin, who will head photography masterclasses on a private four-day journey through Somerset, giving guests the opportunity to learn about photography directly from a master of his craft. theluminaire.com 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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HOTELS & TRAVEL | News

JAPAN IS BACK

With Japan fi nally opening up to the world this summer, Walks Worldwide has revealed two small group, guided itineraries: Ancient Trails of Japan and Trails of Northern Japan. Led by a walking ‘sensei’, the journeys will give walkers the opportunity to discover ancient pilgrim paths, stay with welcoming locals and enjoy traditional customs – from forest-bathing to hot-springs – all against a background of outstanding scenery. walksworldwide.com

FIVE HOT NEW OPENINGS

PASSALACQUA, Lake Como, Italy The sister property to Lake Como’s iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Passalacqua, an 18th century villa, reopens this summer with 24 suites, tennis courts and an al fresco cinema. passalacqua.it

GLENEAGLES TOWNHOUSE, Edinburgh, Scotland The urban outpost of Scotland’s Gleneagles, The Townhouse will be home to 33 rooms, a member’s club, a wellness space and a terrace overlooking St Andrew Square. gleneaglestownhouse.com

WELLNESS FIRST

With many travellers looking to maintain or enhance their personal wellbeing when on holiday, it comes as no surprise that the wellness tourism industry – a $720 billion market pre-pandemic – is big business. Making the most of this rising trend, CV Villas, a London-based villa holiday tour operator, has just launched a dedicated wellness collection, which comprises a carefully curated selection of villas that includes amenities from saunas and hammams to state-of-the-art gyms and yoga studios. cvvillas.com

ETT HEM, Stockholm, Sweden In celebration of its 10th birthday, Ett Hem has added two new adjacent townhouses with ten further guestrooms, three residences and a gym, all with the same warm design ethos. etthem.se

OFF-GRID CAMPING

With bookings for campsites in the UK already up 33 per cent this year, they’re likely to feel a little crowded. For those who want their space, Wild With Consent connects campervanners with consenting landowners, allowing them to get off-grid legally. Due to popular demand, the company has launched the 2022 season with a bunch of new nationwide locations from Devon to the Scottish Borders and Northern Ireland. wildwithconsent.com

ISLAND ADVENTURES Making the most of the trend for longer trips, Olympic Holidays – also known as The Island Specialists – takes all the hassle out of the logistics and, to boot, it has expanded its much-loved Island-Hopping Experiences to include three new Greek Islands alongside a new foray into Malta and Gozo. olympicholidays.com

AMAN NEW YORK, New York, USA The new 83-suite hotel and its 22 residences occupy the 100-year-old Beaux-Arts Crown Building, transformed to include an Aman Spa spread over three-storeys. amannewyork.com

SOHO HOUSE COPENHAGEN, Denmark For its first Scandi property, Soho House has landed in Copenhagen, where a member’s club, a terrace, and a Club Cecconi’s restaurant will take over its former Customs House. sohohouse.com n

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CO M P E T I T I O N

LOOKING FOR A BESPOKE WARDROBE… OF EYEWEAR? To celebrate his brand’s 20th anniversary, luxury eyewear designer Tom Davies is offering one lucky winner a private oneto-one consultation worth £10,000

aybe you recognise his specs from the big screen: Tom Davies’s frames have been featured in everything from The Matrix Resurrections to Disney’s Cruella and Marvel’s Spiderman, as well as on celebrities including Ed Sheeran, Heston Blumenthal and Victoria Beckham. The designer’s glasses brand has five luxury boutiques, all in distinguished London locations: Sloane Square, Knightsbridge, Covent Garden, Royal Exchange and Canary Wharf. The boutiques offer a truly unique bespoke service for customers, with frames created using only the highest quality materials, principally natural buffalo horn, precision-engineered titanium, 18ct gold, silver 925, and the finest Japanese acetates. What’s more, the state-of-theart Vision Clinics in each boutique are among the most advanced in the world. Using the latest Zeiss equipment, the experienced optometrists view a patient’s eye health in greater depth than that of a non-specialist hospital, able to track even the smallest of changes over time so you can be confident that any issues will be quickly picked up and treated. For more information, visit tdtomdavies.com or purchase Tom’s as-seen-on-screen eyewear on iwearbritain.com

WIN A complimentary state-of-the-art eye examination, plus private one-to-one consultation with eyewear designer to the stars, Tom Davies. Tom will create three pairs of unique frames for your individual style requirements.

TO ENTER Visit countryandtown house.co.uk/ competitions. The competition closes on 31 July 2022. Terms and conditions apply.

TERMS & CONDITIONS: The prize is subject to clinic availability and must be taken between Monday-Friday. The prize must be claimed no later than 30 November 2022. No cash alternative is available. Prize includes three pairs of bespoke frames and prescription lenses (if required).

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Better Together Make lasting memories in these wonderfully welcoming, family-friendly places

PHOTOS: PEXELS

CRAVEIRAL, Alentejo, Portugal

‘Alentejo will soon be the place to be,’ says Pedro Franca Pinto, the Lisboan lawyer for whom the birth of his two boys 12 years ago prompted a complete change of direction – and the realisation of his childhood dream to become a farmer. He would live according to his values of giving back and leaving things in a better state than he found them. How? By building a regenerative farm that would not only employ locals (as far as possible) and have a positive impact on the land and its people but one that would also offer guests a truly authentic ‘back to nature’ hospitality experience (he’s aware of the buzziness of his words, but in his case he means them). And so, the concept of Craveiral was born. In 2010, he bought 22 acres of protected land in the Alentejo region, which, because of its relative inaccessibility (in comparison with the over-manicured Algarve and the now extortionately priced Comporta), has remained far more wild and unkempt, with little amounts of dense construction, and – in Pedro’s words – the best coastline in Western Europe. Nine years later he opened to guests, before, you guessed it, our friend Covid showed up. However, thanks to the pandemic, he believes that Craveiral is just the kind of restorative place that people are seeking out. And it is extraordinarily laidback, with pine trees dotted around the scrubby landscape, a host of animals on site (pigs, goats, sheep, horses and donkeys, plus a friendly beagle called Charlie and lots of cats), vegetable gardens, wooden walkways built above ground so as not to damage the vegetation, along which guests cycle from their white-washed cottages to the central hub for homemade kombucha, excellent local wine, organic artisan pizzas and extraordinary dishes, conceived by acclaimed chef Alexandre Silva, and mostly cooked on an open fire. Pedro is determined that Craveiral walks the walk, July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 153

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not just talks the talk – but he is also mindful that being circular, regenerative and sustainable cannot happen all at once; it has to be step by step, and he knows that he has still much further to go. For now, all the organic vegetables used in the kitchen are grown on site (apart from the potatoes, onions and carrots); seeds from the cut-up vegetables are then repotted and germinated in the greenhouses before being replanted. The bread is baked in the kitchen; the fish is from the local fish market, brought in by electric vehicle; the meat is from the local butcher. Most of the furniture, equipment and lights in the houses are made in Portugal; a lot of the building is made with local pine; all the water is reused either in the fire system or for irrigation; solar panels provide a lot (though not all) of the power. Later this year, they will be brewing their own beer; opening a new fine dining concept in the greenhouse with an open kitchen; and building an outdoor sauna, the heat from which will be used to smoke Craveiral sausages. Pedro’s determination is that eventually they will become entirely independent from supply chains. For holidaygoers, there’s plenty to do either on or off site. The beaches (the nearest is 10km away at Zambujeira do Mar) are a big draw (you can use Craveiral’s Jeep to access some of the more remote ones such as Praia dos Machados), as is hiking, riding, surfing, paddleboarding and endless pretty Portuguese villages to discover by car. But you could also happily while away your hours here swimming (indoor or outdoor), having a massage, riding, trying out a beer-brewing workshop, yoga, or just soaking up the sun while your children ramble independently in the safe surroundings. If nature is the new luxury standard, come here where they have it by the bucketload. BOOK IT: From € 330 per night for a family of four sharing a two-bedroom house. craveiral.pt

The Algarve is a firm family favourite for a reason: guaranteed great weather with 3,000 hours of sunshine a year; glorious golden sandy beaches; and picturesque fishing villages to explore. In the heart of the region is Quinta do Lago, a luxurious 2,000-acre resort in the pristine Ria Formosa nature reserve, which is also home to Four Seasons Fairways. The jewel in the crown of the development, Four Seasons Fairways offers a selection of private villas and apartments designed with families in mind, each fully equipped with a pool or Jacuzzi and a BBQ area on its terrace – in-villa massages are available, too. Over in the Clubhouse, there are outdoor and indoor heated pools to lounge beside, plus a children’s outdoor pool for little ones to splash in. Grown-ups lucky enough to escape for a few hours can zone out in the Jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath, or hit some balls on the tennis court or on one of Quinta do Lago’s many golf courses. There’s also a packed schedule of events for all ages, from children’s club activities in the school holidays to the Active Living Week with Olympian Amy Williams MBE, which takes place from 19-26 November, and sees the sportswoman lead a schedule of fitness and mobility classes, as well as a bike tour around the nature reserve’s verdant lagoons and marshlands. BOOK IT: Seven nights in a two or three-bed villa or apartment with swimming pool or Jacuzzi from £1,234 on a self-catering basis. fourseasonsfairways.com

FOUR SEASONS FAIRWAYS, Portugal

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Best Of | HOTELS & TRAVEL

CHEVAL BLANC, Saint-Tropez, France

As the arbiters of good taste, it’s always curious to see how LVMH choreographs its hotels. How to go about tactfully embracing families without altering or eroding haut standards? Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez’s trick is to lavish broods with the same Riviera treatment – no ugly high chairs or plastic baby regalia in sight. ‘Little guests’ as they are affectionately termed, are welcomed with gourmet treats and teddies, wrapped in miniature fluffy Cheval Blanc dressing gowns and slippers and swaddled in state-or-the-art baby equipment. While parents are made to feel welcome from the get-go, the three Michelin-starred Vague d’Or is decidedly grown up (trusted babysitters are easily organised by the hotel for parents wishing to sample chef Arnaud Donckele’s extraordinary dishes, à deux). And while farm-to-fork baby purées, children-friendly gourmet menus and treasure hunts along the coast can be fixed in a flash, this is well-behaved, well-dressed and well-mannered children territory, for sprogs au fait with fancy interiors and fine dining. BOOK IT: Doubles from £550 per night based on two sharing on a half-board basis. chevalblanc.com

GREAT SCOTLAND YARD HOTEL, London, UK

For possibly the closest stay to the centre of power in the UK, 10 Downing Street (and the partygate crime scene, no less), you couldn’t wish for a better location than the former HQ of the Metropolitan Police: Scotland Yard. While you won’t find wayward MPs being reprimanded within its walls, the transformation of police station to five-star hotel leaves no doubt as to the history of this 1820s building. Nods to London’s former underbelly abound – original truncheons, handcuffs, barrister’s wigs and stolen swag are all on display, while the contemporary artwork was curated by Koestler Arts from current guests at Her Majesty’s pleasure. The bustling 40 Elephants Bar offers criminally good cocktails and bar snacks, while at Ekstedt at The Yard you’ll find the best of British ingredients cooked in Scandi style over an open fire. As for what to do? Be a tourist in your own capital city as you tread round the Monopoly board of famous street names on your doorstep. But don’t forget to look up, London’s buildings are photogenically gorgeous above the eyeline. BOOK IT: Doubles from £295. hyatt.com July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 155

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VILLA KATERINA, Puglia, Italy

When you’re somewhere as stunning as Italy’s Puglia, all you need accommodationwise is a base from which to launch yourself into the breathtaking architecture, craggy cliffs, secluded coves and (very, very) delectable cuisine of the region. But why not make the base as appealing as its surroundings? Villa Katerina is an impressive conical-roofed fourbedroom, three-bathroom property located 15 minutes from the beautiful Ostuni, aka the ‘Città Bianca’. With beautifully landscaped grounds, this sprawling private home has its own pool, several living areas, an open plan kitchen-diner and plenty of poolside lounging space. Villa Collective’s on-the-ground manager will answer your WhatsApps about working the oven no matter what time of night, as well as organising more appealing pursuits from coastal horse riding to private chefs who will cook up an Italian feast (and clear up after themselves) while you sample yet another of the region’s rosés on the terrace. They’ll even stock the fridge for your arrival: we’d suggest requesting a strong tipple to recover from the journey, should your sat-nav mislead you through the steep and narrow cobbles of Ostuni (populated with Italy’s infamous drivers). Yes, the base is definitely just as important as the destination – particularly if you’re the designated driver. BOOK IT: Sleeps eight to ten guests, from € 6,950 per week. villacollective.com

L’ALBERETA, Franciacorta, Italy

Milan’s cognoscenti love L’Albereta. Conveniently situated an hour’s drive from the city in the Franciacorta wine region, at weekends Ferraris and Lamborghinis purr into its car park, unleashing children, dogs and old-school Gucci into the lobby. Arriving here is like visiting nonna – an adoring grandmother who welcomes with a perfumed embrace, spoils with homemade treats and soulsoothing food, caring for little ones while you recharge and relax. Carmen Moretti de Rosa, the driving force behind its inception almost 30 years ago, refers to L’Albereta as her ‘home’. Her two sisters share her passion – Valentina, an architect, reimagined the interiors after fire damage, while Francesca heads up the Bellavista winery, whose vineyards undulate around the estate like a frill on a skirt. Fifty-seven luxuriously appointed bedrooms all feature bucolic views, and there are two pools and a Chenot wellness spa. Maty’s club (named after Carmen’s daughter) welcomes children from three years. A crowd-pleasing pizzeria, La Filiale, tops it off. It’s Italy, after all. BOOK IT: Doubles from € 360 B&B. albereta.it 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July/August 2022

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Best Of | HOTELS & TRAVEL

SANI RESORT, Greece

You can forget wrestling with the pram at check-in (and all the other baby-related paraphernalia – it’s all provided for here) because at Sani Resort it’s about creating ultimate relaxation for guests of all ages. You’ll be flummoxed to find that at this Grecian gem of a resort kids are astonishingly well behaved – because there are more activities than you can shake a stick at. From top tier crèches and private nannies, through to a kids’ club (with a constant flurry of activities morning and afternoon), a Bear Grylls Survival Academy, and a Rafa Nadal tennis centre, as well as treetop adventures in its sprawling forest, there’s enough to keep the pickiest of youngsters engaged. Feeling exhausted just reading that? You don’t have to be; it’s really up to your family how you curate the tempo of your stay. It’s equally as valid to luxuriate on a sun lounger and listen to the lapping waves of the Aegean Sea (there’s a beachside babysitting option, mind you). Or perhaps you could spend the afternoon grazing on a traditional Greek sharing platter – there are over 35 bars and restaurants, so you won’t be short of ideas. It also helps that the 1,000-acre resort is jaw-droppingly beautiful. BOOK IT: From € 275 for a Junior Suite Private Garden. saniresort.gr

THE LAKES BY YOO, Cotswolds

The private estate Lakes by Yoo, a secret 800-acre water world with freshwater lakes, woodland, a huge wildflower meadow, beehives, farm animals and 150 or so wood-clad waterfront second homes – has caught the zeitgeist and moved into quirky hotel accommodation. Now, with the launch of its gorgeous new two-bedroom Lakeside Cabins and three-bedroom Lakeside Apartments, all with kitchens, plus flexible and highly professional guest services (order from the inventive online menu or hire a private chef), the estate is far more accessible for nonowners and short stays. And bring the kids: this is a children’s paradise. A sandy beach borders the lake, where parents can loll at Elsa’s café while children romp in the wooden playground. There’s also a huge swimming pool just a few steps away in the spa, and miles of estate to explore on bikes, canoes and paddleboards, plus fishing, wild swimming and kids’ activities. A crack team, including Andrew Cook, previously GM of Chewton Glen and Damian Daszynski, ex-restaurant manager at Thyme and Chiltern Firehouse, have assembled to deliver peace, fun and laid-back living for all the family, less than two hours from London. BOOK IT: Cabins from £695 per night; apartments from £895 per night. Minimum two-night stay outside of UK public holidays. thelakesbyyoo.com n July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 157

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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Escape

SEARCHING FOR EDEN

Does Cornwall hold the key to a new era of regenerative tourism? Rebecca Cox asks Sir Tim Smit, founder of the Eden Project, for his insight

‘T

he word “regenerative” has become very fashionable over the last three years,’ Sir Tim Smit, Executive Vice-Chair and Co-founder of the award-winning Eden Project, tells me. ‘But it is in regenerative farming that one can see the traces of regenerative tourism.’ Regenerative farming (more on that on p79) is the overhaul of farming practices that favour producing as much as possible as quickly as possible for those that work to restore soil quality, support biodiversity and uphold healthy ecosystems, while also producing higher quality produce. It’s also about taking a ‘bigger picture’ approach to business – not just measuring profits, but impact and longevity. You can see how this concept is inextricably linked to Sir Tim’s work at The Lost Gardens of Heligan and the Eden Project, both in Cornwall, where biodiversity is king and environmental education is at the heart of everything. In the same way that farming practices are being overhauled, a more holistic attitude is needed for regenerative tourism, too. ‘It’s one thing being more environmentally friendly,’ says Sir Tim. ‘But this means less damage, less waste. That isn’t regenerative – it is just less degenerative. Humans are the only creatures that have waste that can’t be consumed by another part of the food chain.’ The regenerative model means turning our back on ‘makeuse-dispose’ ways of consuming and finding a more circular way of living. When it comes to travel, this means we stop simply taking from the land and local communities, and instead ensure we are giving back to them. Founder and CEO of ocean ambassadors’ organisation NOAH ReGen, Frédéric Degret, tells me: ‘Regenerative tourism seeks to make travel a force for good. It aims to replace the consumptive, extractive and exploitative nature of traditional tourism with a model designed and carefully managed to bring net benefits to destinations and local citizens. It works by insisting that communities and the environment are given the same importance as profit: the so-called triple bottom line principle of people, planet and profit.’ When it comes to the ‘people’ part of this trio, what can we learn from Cornwall, home to many ongoing regenerative projects? The county is leading the way on climate action, working toward a net zero target of 2030, two decades ahead of the rest of the UK. Its green technology agenda includes floating wind power, lithium mining, electric car batteries and geothermal energy. Sir Tim points to Chris Hines and his work setting up local action group Surfers Against Sewage in 1990 as a tipping point. ‘It became a national institution, but it gave the county a sense of agency. It makes the search for alternatives feel like a shared experience.’ But there is a push for more. At the time of writing, a ‘climate camp’ of Cornish activists is set up outside the county council offices in Truro campaigning for faster action.

Perhaps the key to regenerative tourism is empowering visitors to feel like they can be part of this push for change. Sir Tim says this is already happening in Cornwall: ‘I think that most of the visitors to Cornwall come with the desire to be honorary Cornish people when they are here. They are under the cultural influence to behave as a Cornishman would have them behave.’ This relationship between community and environment is the key to regenerative tourism as a whole. It is perhaps the reason why Cornwall is leaps ahead of much of the UK in this area, with countless regenerative projects, not just at Eden or Heligan, turning into unbeatable visitor experiences. Wellness retreat Cabilla, near Bodmin, is another, as well as Coombeshead Farm, which offers soil-led agrotourism on its 66 acres of land. But can this model be replicated elsewhere? Yes, but it won’t be easy, says Sir Tim, and it requires tourists to want more from their experience, too. ‘How can you make tourism a communitywide enterprise?’ he asks. ‘Can you have a series of protocols for tourism, which are like a declaration of the moral direction under which each hotel, bed and breakfast, destination, restaurant operates? As well as in terms of the waste produced and in terms of the commitment to buy off each other in a small area. And the ability to pay people properly.’ Being truly regenerative starts with taking a communityfirst approach to new tourism projects. ‘We’re building a new Eden Project [in Morecambe in Lancashire],’ says Sir Tim. ‘And we’ve done this incredible community-wide negotiation and conversation. People want to be trained up to have jobs. And, suddenly, you find that you can start talking to a bunch of farmers about forming a cooperative because you’re saying, if you’re a cooperative, we will buy from you.’ And the locals themselves have to be on board. ‘The problem with exclusivity is it does create a rage and people hate when there’s something exclusive in an area where they live. So you have to also create a number of events on a regular basis where the neighbours can use it, see it and enjoy it.’ Tourism destinations putting their communities at the heart of what they do are ensuring a future that is truly sustainable – for both people and planet. This can include limiting access to visitors, or alternatively, ‘creating a heck of a lot of new areas for people to visit,’ says Sir Tim. ‘That’s another way of looking at it. Some of this regenerative tourism is about reimagining the landscape. And getting away from the notion of the honeypot visitor destinations [like Cornwall or the Lake District].’ Above all, it’s about treating the most beautiful corners of our planet with care and investing in the people who already live there, I say. Sir Tim agrees: ‘Beauty is at the heart of all of this – but you know that already.’

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‘Tourism DESTINATIONS putting their COMMUNITIES at the heart of what they do are ensuring a FUTURE that is truly SUSTAINABLE’

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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Escape

5 DESTINATIONS PUTTING REGENER ATION AT THEIR HEART

ARENAS DEL MAR, Costa Rica

Costa Rica is the model of how ecotourism can transform a country. Arenas del Mar sits in an important corridor for the area’s wildlife, tucked between the rain forest and the Pacific Ocean. Nature conservation is an integral part of the hotel’s sustainable philosophy with reforestation efforts undertaken over the past two decades, including the planting of 7,000 native trees and thousands of endemic plants. Guests can choose to donate to local schools or plant a tree. arenasdelmar.com

ETÉREO, Mexico

Etéreo is built on just nine per cent of its 1,235acre property, with the remainder – largely jungle and mangrove forest – left mostly undisturbed, building along a single road and putting buildings on stilts where necessary. Guests can get involved in conservation projects or work with the team of in-house botanists, while the resort is working with local communities, university researchers and conservation groups for a multi-pronged conservation programme. aubergeresorts.com/etereo

THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN, Cornwall

Conservation and regeneration are at the heart of this historic Cornish site. In 2008 Heligan was granted National Collection Holder status by Plant Heritage for its historic camellias and rhododendrons. Today, the Garden’s calendar is packed with events for all ages, from Rare Breeds Month through to the Christmas Grotto, meaning there is a host of engaging activities to ensure locals get the most from this cultural hub, too. heligan.com

OASYHOTEL, Italy

Located in the heart of Tuscany in San Marcello Piteglio, Oasyhotel has opened within the privately owned, WWF-protected Oasi Dynamo reserve. The thousand-plus hectares of land consist of undisturbed forest, farmland, lakes and rivers. With its strict protective restrictions, rare plants and a huge range of biodiversity can be found, in addition to incredible wildlife including wolves, deer and wild boar. Bird watchers can look out for goshawk, golden eagle and honey buzzard. oasyhotel.com

SINGITA KWITONDA LODGE, Rwanda

Set on 178 acres of lush land on the edge of Volcanoes National Park, Singita Kwitonda Lodge was created in partnership with the Rwanda Development Board and local communities. The project takes a long-term approach to conservation on the edge of the park, in line with the company’s 100-year vision to build sustainable revenue streams to fund the preservation of African wilderness for future generations. singita.com n

PHOTOS: NICOLA NERI

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FOOD&DRINK

Plant POWER

Take inspiration from Kew Gardens’ new anthology of vegetarian recipes that celebrate fruits, nuts, vegetables, funghi and grains, and their potential to broaden our palates and regenerate biodiversity July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 163

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FOOD&DRINK | Recipe Food philosophy? Celebrate

PICTURED ON PREVIOUS PAGE

SERVES 4 — 2 large pears, Conference or Fiorelle — ½ level tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra for sprinkling — ½ level tsp good quality black peppercorns — 2 tsp mild clear honey, plus extra for sprinkling — 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for sprinkling — Juice of ¼ lemon — 6 tbsp water — 4 small handfuls baby chard leaves or beet leaves — 100g hard sheep cheese such as Lord of the Hundreds, Herriot Farmhouse or Swaledale, thinly sliced — 8 shelled walnuts, halved — Aged balsamic vinegar or pomegranate molasses

his is a simple but impressive starter that relies on top-quality ingredients. Peppercorns are particularly important – Wynad or Tellicherry from Kerala, southwest India, are the Rolls Royce varieties. Both have complex rich flavours and warm but not biting heat.

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Slice the pears in half length ways and remove the cores, interior stem and peel. Place cut side up in a small roasting tin. Combine the sea salt flakes and peppercorns, and lightly crush using a pestle and mortar. Sprinkle the mixture into the cavities of the pears, then spoon the honey over the top. Sprinkle with the olive oil and lemon juice. Pour the water into the base of the roasting tin. Roast for 20–30 minutes, turning the tin halfway, until the pears are beginning to brown at the edges. Move them to a plate, pour over the juices from the tin and leave to cool. Divide the chard or beet leaves between four plates. Place a warm pear half on top with a few slices of sheep’s cheese. Scatter the walnut halves, then sprinkle with more honey, a few drops of extra virgin olive oil, some crumbled sea salt flakes and a dribble of sticky aged balsamic vinegar.

seasonal and local produce. I adore fruit and vegetables, and there is nothing better than a crop which is at its peak. The taste is always much better. Most memorable dish? I adore mushrooms, and the best I ever had were in a farm shop with a restaurant in Wales. The mushrooms had been picked that day and were cooked in garlic and herbs, and loaded on freshly baked sourdough. Favourite in-season food?

In July, the tomatoes are just beginning to ripen. I have a particular love for dark skinned types such as Black Opal, which is also one of the first to ripen in the Kew kitchen garden. I pick one once the sun has warmed it, then sneak off to sit under a tree and enjoy. Most memorable meal out?

Foodie TALES Kew’s Kitchen Gardener, Helena Dove

One summer a group of us met weekly for a picnic in Kew Gardens. I would bring fresh produce: mangetout, baby courgettes, tomatoes and salad leaves. Others would make something, like cake or bread, and there always seemed to be a fair amount of cheese. Sharing food is just a joy, especially when it is grown or made by yourself. When you’re not in the gardens, where are you? Probably in the

swimming pool. It’s a great way to get the muscles moving, and focus a busy mind. Swimming in the sea is a real treat, but I have to admit to being slightly fair-weathered and will only go in over the summer and autumn. Any food rituals? Sitting at the table to eat is incredibly important for me. My partner and I always sit at the table when we eat together, which means we truly appreciate the food one of us has prepared and is also a great way to spend some quality time catching up. Sustainable food advice? Don’t waste food. Gluts in the vegetable garden can feel overwhelming, but they can be frozen and preserved, or shared. Any part of the fruit and vegetables that aren’t consumed should be composted, as they will then end up feeding the soil and next year’s crops. The Kew Gardens Cookbook – A Celebration of Plants In The Kitchen (Kew Publishing, £20) n

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH

Roasted Peppered Pear Salad with Sheep’s Cheese, Honey and Walnuts

Helena’s passion for heritage veg led her to a job at Kew

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News | FOOD&DRINK PRETTY IN PINK Peonies and pink pottery, why thank you Swarovski x Rosenthal for sweetening tea time even more. swarovski.com

TASTE THE CHANGE

An East London opening, Sohaila, is tackling homelessness through casual dining. Tuck into top-notch Lebanese fare at a restaurant which helps its trainees find permanent accommodation. sohailarestaurant.com

THE DAILY GRIND Plastic coffee pods take 500 years to decompose - but not these. Grind Coffee has released a world-first with its home compostable pods. £15, grind.co.uk

Gastro GOSSIP

PHOTOS: NONE SO CANWE REMOVE THIS

Hooray for properly compostable coffee pods, says Tessa Dunthorne

OPENING UP

Coppa Club at The Georgian in Haslemere, Surrey is the new place for lucky locals to hang out for both work and play. We are big fans of its vintage negronis – best enjoyed on the sunny terrace. coppaclub.co.uk

CHEW ON THAT

Forget bars and get into tiles. Our latest obsession is Ellen Chew’s new collaboration with BRIK Chocolate, whose kumquat and Sichuan pepper marble tile packs a sour and tangy punch. £9.95, brik.site

JUST THE TONIC Daylesford has introduced its new organic tonic water, the first to be made in the UK. Try the Damascena Rose tonic – for a fragrant summer twist to your G&T. From £1.49, daylesford.com July/August 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 165

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PROPERTY

Edited by Anna Tyzack

HOUSE OF THE MONTH Poston Court Estate, Vowchurch, Herefordshire 3-10 bedrooms, 3-9 bathrooms, 8,606 sq/ft £10.5m In a sentence… Poston Court Estate is tucked away in the rolling Herefordshire hills, with views looking out over the Golden Valley, the Black Mountains and the Forest of Dean, and access to 266 acres of land including its own extensive mature woodland. Does it have any juicy history? It might well be based on the site of an Iron Age settlement, and it occupies an old medieval deer park. In the 18th century, it was bought by Sir William Chambers (the architect behind Somerset House) as a pleasure house. Best room in the house? The signature William Chambers circular dining room with its ornate domed ceiling. What would summers be like here? Perhaps spent in the woods forest bathing among the honeysuckle, or foraging ingredients for dinner like blackberries and wild garlic. Or perhaps you’d be up for a family shoot on the estate’s grounds during game season, all culminating in a sunny al fresco dinner on the resplendent front lawns. What would parties be like here? With either banquets in the round dining room, or use of the large party barn, there’s endless fun to be had at Poston Court. 020 7861 1440; knightfrank.co.uk

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NEWBURY W ith its farmhouse kitchen, far-reaching views and almost eight acres of garden and meadows, Broad Mead Farm in the North Wessex Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is the ultimate in commutable farmhouses. The fact that it is newly built with a ground source heat pump makes it even more desirable, according to Liz McLean from Savills in Newbury (savills.co.uk). ‘You can be in London within an hour yet this is stunning countryside with endless scope for walking and riding nearby,’ she says. ‘Increasingly our London buyers are looking for country houses that are easy to run, with a low carbon footprint.’ The area around Newbury has always been popular with commuters, yet thanks to Crossrail its star is rising ever higher, according to buying agent Ben Horne of Middleton Advisors (middletonadvisors.com). Since the start of lockdown he’s received numerous requests for family houses in the area – and interest is just as strong now many are returning to the office. ‘Newbury to Reading is 15 minutes, and from Reading you can be in London in 35 minutes on the Elizabeth Line,’ he says. Houses such as Broad Mead Farm, which is on the market for £4 million with Savills, suit a new generation of environmentally conscious London leavers who don’t have the time or inclination to take on their own renovation project. Two Cocks Farm, an architect-designed eco farmhouse near Newbury, sparked the trend when it featured on Channel 4’s Grand Designs in 2013; according to Horne, modern houses such as this will only become more popular as the government penalises poor energy performance. For Andy and Melissa Shields, who during lockdown bought

a plot that was already being developed into a five-bedroom eco house near Kingsclere, the Newbury area offers everything they didn’t have in London: wide open spaces, charming country pubs, friendly local sports clubs and a house large enough for three children and two dogs. Their house was completed early this year; the pool, stables and tennis court will be finished by the end of the summer. ‘We worried that the house wouldn’t have the personality of an older property but it’s already got its own character – and everything works,’ Melissa says. Their children are happily installed in a nearby prep school and Andy commutes into the City four days a week. ‘Honestly, I think we spent more time on roads and trains when we lived in London,’ Melissa continues. ‘It’s wonderfully convenient around here, and Newbury itself is very useful.’ Far from being a sleepy commuter town, Newbury is an employment centre in its own right; Vodafone, Stryker and the Swift Group all have head offices there. Meanwhile the town’s shopping and restaurants have gentrified over the past few years, as has Newbury Racecourse, which hosts the Hennessy Gold Cup in November. ‘Newbury is a vibrant market town surrounded by beautiful countryside with highly rated schools, a variety of great shops and restaurants, and a local cultural scene – the Watermill theatre is much-loved by families,’ says Liz. For London leavers, however, it is the quintessentially English villages that surround Newbury that make it so desirable: Hungerford, Kintbury, Thatcham, Bedwyn and Shalbourne have charming pubs, period houses and close-knit communities. Education is also a major draw: there are a large number of

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Anna Tyzack heads to Berkshire to find eco-homes within easy reach of London

Let’s Move To | PROPERTY ‘Outstanding’ rated primaries in the area and good state secondaries including St Bartholomew’s in Newbury, The Downs School in Compton and Kennet School in Thatcham. In the private sector Cheam, Pinewood and Thorngrove are popular prep schools while public schools Bradfield, Marlborough and Dauntsey’s are all within easy reach. ‘Dauntsey’s has incredible facilities and is suddenly on everyone’s radar,’ Ben says. The hurdle for those moving to the area is finding a house; there is precious little on the open market, and the best houses change hands quickly via word of mouth. Around Ashmansworth and the Woodhays, to the east of Newbury, it is almost impossible to buy as the area is made up of large private estates owned by families who will never sell off cottages and farmhouses. A bestin-class rectory with a few acres in this area recently sold for around £9 million. According to Horne, buyers can expect to pay around £2.5 million for a decent

farmhouse with a few acres, while a fivebedroom village house surrounded by garden sells for around £1.5 million. In Newbury itself a family home sells for around £1.1 million, adds McLean. While the Shields’ house is at odds with the rambling period house many families envisage moving to from London, they couldn’t recommend a new build more highly. Their house has a warranty for a start and it costs less to run than their Victorian terrace in Battersea, despite being three times larger. ‘Sustainable country houses are surely the way forward,’ Melissa says. ‘That way you can enjoy the countryside knowing you’re not making a negative impact.’

BEST FOR

LAZY SUNDAY LUNCH There are no shortage of good watering holes: try The Pheasant at Highclere, The Royal Oak at Yattendon or the Hare & Hounds in Newbury. A NIGHT AT THE RACES There are evening race meets throughout the summer at Newbury Racecourse with live music and entertainment. (newburyracecourse.co.uk) SOME LOCAL SPORT Get tickets to a T20 game at the Hampshire Cricket Ground (ageasbowl.com) or book a day’s chalk stream fishing on the Itchen or the Test. (test-itchen.com)

A SPA DAY The five-star Cliveden House has indoor and outdoor pools, treatment rooms and restaurants surrounded by 376 acres of National Trust grounds. (clivedenhouse.co.uk)

FROM LEFT: Highclere Castle is just outside Newbury; the River Kennet flows through the town (visitnewbury.co.uk)

CULTURE TRIP Henry VIII and Elizabeth I are thought to have stayed at the 14th century Donnington Castle, near Newbury. Large defences still survive. (english-heritage.org.uk)

FOR SALE

LETCOMBE BOWERS, From £1.1m A chance to build your own ‘Grand Design’ without any of the hassle. A bespoke scheme of barn conversions and new houses approached by a mile long drive with incredible views and gardens by RHS Gold medalist Sarah Eberle. Get in quick. savills.com

NORTH END, £4m Broad Mead Farm is a new build house with ground source heating in a private position near Kintbury. The enormous light-filled reception rooms and six bedrooms are waiting for a family to make their mark. Outside are lawns, gardens and woodland extending to nearly eight acres. savills.com

CHILTON FOLIAT, £5.95m The Old Rectory not far from Hungerford has gracious reception rooms including an orangery and six spacious bedrooms. Amid the 11 acres of gardens and parkland are a two-bedroom staff flat, pool, tennis court and vegetable patch. struttandparker.com n

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With its UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status, people, planet and community are at the heart of the Isle of Man way of life

A NATURAL CHOICE Looking for a different way of life? The Isle of Man, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, offers its residents more space to breathe

t’s well known that nature plays an essential role in our mental and physical wellbeing, especially in this fast-paced modern world. Indeed, a recent survey by Link found that two-thirds of British adults say access to more or better natural spaces would increase their quality of life. The Isle of Man, with its rugged cliffs, emerald hills and golden beaches, has these in abundance, and the island was even designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2016. One of 727 worldwide, Biosphere Reserves are ‘learning places for sustainable development’ – meaning conservation, culture and community all working together for a better future for people and planet. The Isle of Man is the only entire-nation biosphere in the world, making it the ideal home for people looking for a different pace of life that also puts nature first. For Manx residents and businesses, the status means that the environment is always at the heart of island life. UNESCO Biosphere Isle of Man’s

To find out more about relocating to the Isle of Man, visit locate.im

Business Partner Scheme was launched in 2016, and now has more than 300 participating organisations, which have all pledged to protect the island’s natural resources, develop its economy in a sustainable way, and support the island’s culture and heritage. This initiative means business is booming across the Biosphere, with residents setting up companies that both benefit from and support the local environment. Take Helen Crosbie, who moved to the island five years ago from France and founded her company Isle

of Man Salt Co during the pandemic. ‘I was fascinated with salt forming in rock pools on the beach opposite our house and soon started to make my own batches of salt at home,’ Helen explains. ‘When lockdown hit in March 2020, I decided to go for it and make a business from my idea. The Isle of Man is fortunate to be surrounded by designated marine nature reserves and the pristine waters make the most wonderful salt flakes.’ The designation also means there’s a real focus on supporting the local environment, as well as the community. ‘It is such a wonderful place to live and really has completely exceeded all my expectations,’ continues Helen. ‘It reminds me of my childhood growing up in a beautiful village in the Ribble Valley where we were free to roam. It’s a perfect mix of beaches, fishing villages and stunning open countryside.’ So if you’re looking for a different way of life that has nature at its heart, then the Isle of Man ticks all the right boxes.

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P R O M OT I O N

COMMUNITY AND NATURE FIRST Spotlight on three Manx businesses

reliant on the use of pesticides, fertilisers, herbicides, and other damaging agents. It’s leading us down a path of environmental destruction and a loss of biodiversity that hasn’t been seen since the last major extinction level event. Though the issue may seem too big for any one person to make a difference, by choosing to use our growing spaces for to regenerate the soil and provide habitat for wild creatures we each make a difference.

MEET... TANYA ANDERSON Isle of Man organic gardener and founder of website Lovely Greens

Tell us about yourself? Though I started my career in design and technology, about twelve years ago I gave it up and moved to the Isle of Man – an island that I’d never heard of before. It was here that Lovely Greens was born. Behind the website, socials, and YouTube is the message of growing your own food and creating a handmade home. Over the years it’s evolved into a way to share ideas for living simply and reconnecting with the soil. How did you find your way to the Isle of Man? It was random chance! I was living in London and a tourism advert for the island came up on the television. It intrigued me and set the move in motion. Why organic? Our natural world is suffering big time. Deforestation, erosion, soil-death, declining numbers of insects and wildlife in general. It’s a massive global crisis that we need to tackle collectively and individually. The vast majority of humanity’s food is grown completely

You recently won a UNESCO Biosphere Isle of Man Award for your work. How has the island inspired your projects? The island is a truly special place. I think because of its relative isolation and smaller population it’s been able to hold on to its wild spaces and heritage. The people here also have a lot of pride in our green glens, rugged coastlines, and Manx culture. I, too, am very much inspired by the Isle of Man. Its landscapes and wild plants, old-fashioned rural living and traditions. The island has provided the perfect setting to rediscover oldfashioned living and to build a connection with the land. Find out more about Tanya and her life on the Isle of Man at lovelygreens.com

VERSA A sustainable restaurant based in Port Erin, Versa’s dedicated team either forages the majority of its ingredients from within walking distance, or sources them from local producers. The menu changes weekly to truly reflect the season and allows diners to swap their homegrown produce for meals. restaurantversa.im

ISLE OF MAN SEA SALT What started as hobby when Helen Crosbie and her family moved to the Isle of Man turned into a full-time business during the pandemic, with salt hand-harvested from the beach near her home. Production is powered by 100 per cent renewable energy from the sun and wind, too. isleofmansaltco.com

CAPITAL INTERNATIONAL GROUP A financial services company that’s been based on the island for 25 years, with its ‘Conscious Capital’ pledge Capital International has set the bold target of becoming carbon neutral by the end of 2025 and aims to plant two trees for each new account opened. capital-iom.com

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PROPERTY | Five of the Best

HOMES FOR REWILDING Create your own wildlife-filled secret garden, says Tessa Dunthorne

SWINDON, £2.8m

A fine Jacobean manor house in its own quiet hamlet, with grounds offering many nooks and crannies for nature to flourish. From the wellplanned woodland featuring mature specimen trees to the fruit-laden orchard, it’s the perfect location for discovering the joys of living off the land. It even sports pastureland for your local grassfed meat. hamptons.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX, £4.5m

Handsome 17th century architecture with all the benefits of 21st century living. Sprawled across six acres, this five-bedroom and five-bathroom house boasts parterre gardens and grounds offering not only an orchard, but also a pond and an island. Oh, and not to mention your own woodland, teaming with wildlife. savills.com

LYMINGTON, £2.95m

Nestled in the leafy New Forest, this characterful five-bedroom house has extensive grounds incorporating a little spring-fed lake, plus various barns, stables and a kitchen garden for cultivating home-grown produce. With a self-contained twobedroom, oh-so-cute cottage on the grounds, cosy seasons spent amid your rewilded grounds are certainly on the cards here. johndwood.co.uk

RIPLEY, £14m

Step straight into The Tudors with this Henrician estate overlooking the River Way in Surrey. Dunsborough Park occupies a sprawling 117 acres, offering over eight bedrooms in the main house (seven of which are ensuite), and its grandiose grounds, with exquisite formal gardens, are perfectly primed for regeneration and remeadowing. struttandparker.com

ST AUSTELL, FROM £415,000

The task of creating an eco-home is made less daunting by this ready-to-go offering at West Carclaze Garden Village, a new development on the south Cornish coast offering townhouses overlooking community allotments, traditional hedgerows and orchards, plus a lake. Best of all, 350 acres of the 500-acre plot will be dedicated to a rewilded country park. westcarclaze-gardenvillage.co.uk

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P R O M OT I O N

A HOME FROM HOME

Why own one holiday house when you could own five?

here are you going on holiday this year? There’s a world of choice out there – and it’s so hard to decide on your perfect destination. If you’ve ever considered buying a holiday home, then that conundrum is amplified even more. August offers an amazing solution for would-be second-homers. The innovative real estate company offers its buyers the chance to co-own holiday homes across Europe, including in enviable destinations like Tuscany, the Cotswolds, the South of France, Mallorca, Chamonix and Barcelona. In July you could be diving into crystal-clear waters near your holiday home on the Côte d’Azur; in December you could be decorating the Christmas tree in your skiin, ski-out chalet in the French Alps; and in March you could be catching some early Mediterranean sun on the terrace of your Mallorcan townhouse. ‘The overall experience exceeded our expectations, from the locations to the houses to the decorations,’ say Rosa and Paul, August co-owners based in New Hampshire, USA. Paul is a property developer, and understands all too well the difficulties involved in finding the perfect home. After trying their own search in Italy and France, they quickly realised that it was nearly impossible for them to do the same level of due diligence in these different

Don’t choose between the Cotswolds and the Côte d’Azur – you can own a holiday home in both with August

markets in order to be able to source the perfect house for them. They then discovered August. ‘I was thinking, wow, this is almost too good to be true when I first heard about it,’ enthuses Paul. So how does it work? August’s ‘Collections’ of properties are shared between up to 21 families, meaning you invest only a fraction of the cost of the full portfolio. The value of these homes can top €10 million combined, for an investment of just €590,000. And on average owners stay in their homes for 12 weeks of the year, with co-owners of different backgrounds – families who need to travel in the school holidays alongside retirees who prefer the off-peak season, for example – carefully selected for the optimum harmonious mix. There are many benefits to this type of co-ownership: your asset isn’t sitting dormant for 11 months of the year; you have the freedom of jumping from house to house as you wish, hosting friends all over Europe; and you never have to worry about hiring a gardener or cleaning the pool, as all of that is taken care of by August. All in all, it’s a stress-free way to enjoy your second home investment – and make the most of exploring the world again. Find out more about becoming an August co-owner at augustcollection.co.uk

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Sydney Street, SW3 This spacious family house has been meticulously arranged over five floors, and forms part of an attractive Grade II Listed terrace in the heart of Chelsea. Approx. 2,583 sq ft. Council Tax Band: H. 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms (2 en suite), 4 reception rooms, terrace, garden, off-street parking. Freehold | Guide Price £4,250,000 | Chelsea – 020 3151 5592

Trusted for generations johndwood.co.uk

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In te rn at io na l St James, Barbados Designed by Michael Gomes, this approx. 6,100 sq ft, well-built, and immaculately maintained home has everything that a family might need. The open-plan living/dining area spills out onto the lower pool deck and gazebo, with the views over the large, fully fenced, back garden creating a country atmosphere. Ref: BRBISVS-3098 | Guide Price £1,622,000 | International – 020 3151 0367

Robert Green MRICS

Samantha McGladdery

Sales - Chelsea Green

International Department

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AA spacious four bedroom lateral well-presented three-bedroom apartment apartment in Knightsbridge in this exclusive Knightsbridge block TheTrevor Knightsbridge Apartments, Square, Knightsbrigdge SW7 Knightsbridge, SW7

Located on the second floor of this exclusive Knightsbridge development with 24 hour concierge and • Spacious reception room • Car parking space security, the accommodation includes a large reception hall, a very impressive reception room (approx • Three bedrooms • 24-hour concierge and security 800 sqft/74 sqm) and a generous fully fitted kitchen with separate dining area. The principal bedroom Two en-suitearea bathrooms ft / 146sq suite •has a dressing and a large ensuite bathroom and• Approx. there are 1,575sq three further doublembedrooms with ensuite bathrooms. There is also a linear balcony running the length of the apartment and two demised private underground car-parking spaces.

PRICE: £13,950,000 TENURE: SHARE OF FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £5,950,000

COUNCIL TAX: H LEASEHOLD

APPROXIMATELY 984 YEARS EPC RATING: B EPC RATING SERVICE CHARGE: APPROX. £85,177 per annum E

GROUND RENT: PEPPERCORN CONTACT KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE

CONTACT: +44 (0)20 7893 8343 KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE leila.dyominova@harrodsestates.com + 44 (0)20 7225 6506 shaun.drummond@harrodsestates.com harrodsestates.com

H A R R O D S E S TAT E S . C O M

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AA spectacular detached house well-presented three-bedroom apartment in inCoombe, Surrey this exclusive Knightsbridge block Telegraph Cottage, Coombe, KT2 Trevor Square, Knightsbrigdge SW7

Set within a small, private, gated development (formerly the residence of General Eisenhower during • Spacious reception room • Car parking space World War II) with only five other detached houses, this spectacular designed neo-Georgian detached • Three bedrooms • 24-hour concierge and security house has accommodation of approximately 12,476ft² / 1,159m² in a plot of approximately 0.45 acres with • Two en-suite bathrooms • Approx. 1,575sq ft /suites, 146sqfour m stunning a south and west facing rear garden and includes seven very generous bedroom reception rooms, including an orangery and a spectacular double height reception hall with a lift to all levels and staff quarters.

PRICE: £9,995,000 TENURE: FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £5,950,000

COUNCIL TAX: H LEASEHOLD

APPROXIMATELY 984 YEARS EPC RATING: C EPC RATING CONTACT: E KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE + 44 (0)20 7225 6797 CONTACT KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE reem.dougramaji@harrodsestates.com +44 (0)20 7893 8343 harrodsestates.com leila.dyominova@harrodsestates.com

H A R R O D S E S TAT E S . C O M

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Surrey, Ripley

Guide Price £14,000,000

An exquisite small Estate with fabulous formal gardens and an unbeatably convenient location Ripley: 300 yards across the common, Woking station: 4.7 miles, Guildford: 6.8 miles, Heathrow Airport: 16 miles, Farnborough Airport: 20 miles, Central London: 23 miles, Gatwick Airport: 28 miles Grade II listed country house with 8 bedrooms | 8 Cottages | Tennis court | Squash court/games hall | Swimming pool Formal gardens and greenhouses | Equestrian facilities | Parkland | Watermeadows and woodland About 117 acres (47.34 ha) Available as a whole or in up to nine lots Mark McAndrew National Estates & Farm Agency | 020 7591 2218 mark.mcandrew@struttandparker.com

/struttandparker

@struttandparker

Liza Howden National Estates & Farm Agency | 020 7591 2214 liza.howden@struttandparker.com

struttandparker.com

Over 50 offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.

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The ‘One and Only’ Channel Island estate agent Livingroom is an internationally recognised award-winning agency - born and bred in the Channel Islands. We proudly represent the finest properties in both Jersey and Guernsey and are passionate about the islands; in 2022 our Jersey office was named ‘best single office estate agent in the world’. With unparalleled local knowledge, our team are here for you.

www.livingroomproperty.com JERSEY T (0) 1534 717100 GUERNSEY T (0) 1481 715555

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pr as e di lo c te w d as en £4 e r 13 g y a co ye s ar ts * West Carclaze Garden Village is a lakeside community built around the unique and historic china clay landscape of St Austell, enjoying far reaching views towards the coast. Our homes are EPC ‘A’ rated and at the leading edge of sustainabile design, with high performance glazing, smart radiators with app control, solar panels on every property, air source heat pumps, and discrete technology to capture heat and warm the ﬁltered outside air that constantly refreshes your home. Enjoy health and happiness every day, with energy bills as low as £413 a year —

so you can enjoy more of your money and save up to 5.9 tonnes of carbon while you do it!*

�can to �isit our �ebsite & �ollow �s on �ocial!

A LIMITED NUMBER OF PROPERTIES REMAIN IN OUR FIRST RELEASE Contact the agents for further information, and register for updates call 01208 74888 | sales@westcarclaze-gardenvillage.co.uk

*Official government assessment https://find-energy-certificate.service.gov.uk/energy-certificate/4101-2651-0532-6225-3223. CGI is indicative only

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LAST WORD Could our entrepreneurs stop the clock on climate change?

Tales of our Time

Michael Hayman on how entrepreneurs can lead the battle against climate change 1960s to put a man on the moon. It proved that technology and innovation can make the impossible, possible. Fast forward to today and the stakes are indescribably higher. We are, as it has been wisely said, the first generation to truly understand the damage of climate change and also the last that can do anything about it. It’s perhaps why Earthshot has set itself until 2030 to make the difference. The good news is that the energy of the world’s entrepreneurs has accelerated massively, because the world needs sustainable living solutions to guarantee our planet for generations to come. And we need our innovators to find new ways of doing this while ensuring that we don’t just stop the clock on the way that we live, work and play. It’s a big task but one that plays to the innate

spirit of ambition in a new generation of business leaders who wants to make a difference and be a force for good. And while Earthshot takes its inspiration from a US President, it’s from a First Lady that we might find the high notes needed to capture the necessary mood. After the death of her husband in 1945 Eleanor Roosevelt would tell reporters, ‘the story is over’. On that she was untypically wrong. Within a year she began her service as American spokesperson in the United Nations. Perhaps just one of the reasons why she believed that ‘the future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dream’. It is this dream of better days, that for our entrepreneurs means the future is theirs to play for... n

TA L K I N G P O I N T S READ Emotion By Design, by former Nike CMO, Greg Hoffman (Cornerstone, £20). WATCH Persuasion, this much-awaited romantic period drama is the latest adaptation of the novel by Jane Austen, starring Dakota Johnson and Henry Golding (netflix.com, 15 July). LISTEN to Jenny Costa, founder of Rubies in the Rubble on Change Makers. Food for thought (changemakers.works).

‘T

he best way to predict the future is to create it,’ was the wise advice from Abraham Lincoln and it still stands as a good motto for any business person. We should be encouraged that entrepreneurs are increasingly seen as the disruptive dreamers who can create the innovation necessary for solutions for climate change. It’s this impetus that’s behind The Earthshot Prize, created by the Duke of Cambridge as ‘the most ambitious and prestigious [award] of its kind’. It is ‘designed to incentivise change and help to repair our planet over the next ten years.’ The prize was inspired by President John F. Kennedy’s ‘Moonshot’, his clarion call in the

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Colored Blocks wallpaper. Whitby Sofa in Cascade. Curtains and cushions in Palisade Linen.

Modern Resource Volume 3 wallpapers www.thibautdesign.com tel: 020 7737 6555

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FROM ICO N O C LA S T TO I CON

AU D E M A R S P I G U E T B O U T I Q U E S LO N D O N : S LO A N E S T R E E T · H A R R O D S F I N E WAT C H E S AP HOUSE LONDON : NEW BOND STREET

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Country & Town House - July/August 2022

Articles inside

FIVE OF THE BEST Homes for

LAST WORD Entrepreneurs should lead the fight against climate change,

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH

LET’S MOVE TO... Newbury

PLANT POWER Kew Garden’s new

BETTER TOGETHER Family breaks

ON GOOD FORM Add a sculpture to your green space, advises Randle Siddeley

THE ESCAPIST Travel news

We’re all searching for so much more than just a spa trip. Find it here with our guide to intelligent wellness. Edited by

DESIGN NOTES News

TAKE IT LYING DOWN Lounging

LET THERE BE LIGHT Can tech

CASE STUDY A post-war home regenerated with an artist’s eye

CHILDLIKE WONDER Cavan

THE CRITICAL CRAFT LIST

ON LOCATION Battersea Power Station’s regeneration tale

SCARFES BAR Former health secretary and potential future PM, Jeremy Hunt shares his vision for the NHS

ARTIST’S STUDIO Sabina Savage

ROAD TEST An EV to fall in love with

LITTLE GREEN BOOK Fashion

BEAUTY BUZZ Nathalie Eleni’s top

THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey

GET A TASTE OF THIS Oysters

TAKE TEN All about eyes

MY STYLE Dopamine dressing

THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B is told

SPA TREK Rediscover your youth at Chenot Palace Weggis

BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon

SUN DAZE Breeze through the summer months in flowing whites

BODY & SOUL Ocean promises

THE RURBANIST Raymond Blanc

EDITOR’S LETTER