C&TH Great British & Irish Hotels - 2024/25

A LIFE IN BALANCE

£12.99

PERFECT PLACES TO STAY

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

2024/25

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

Contents 24 42 46 160

28 56 68 80 88 96 120 127 142 170

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FEATURES

WHAT A CARVE UP! The C&TH x Polestar Sustainable Hotel of the Year Award 2024 AN ESTATE OF ONE’S OWN Rewild yourself for a weekend, says Fleur Britten WHICH TRAVEL TRIBE ARE YOU? Sophia Money-Coutts spies your next guest MEET ME IN THE MIDDLE The mid-priced hotel is having its moment, says Fiona Duncan ON THE RAILS Rebecca Cox takes to the tracks

THE LIST

THE WEEKENDER

Chef Adejoké Bakare Photographer David Yarrow Fashion designer Savannah Miller Model and charity ambassador Amelia Windsor

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DIRECTORY

DEVON & CORNWALL THE WEST COUNTRY

62 74

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT THE HOME COUNTIES

90 108

LONDON THE COTSWOLDS

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Orange-tip in Summer Colour, Lundy Bay, Cornwall, England,

by Thomas Easterbrook. LPOTY: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

Best new openings Treehouses to try Regional galleries to visit Wonderful walks Awesome off-grid cabins Cool craft workshops Wild swimming spots Al fresco theatres Fabulous foodie destinations Amazing staycation adventures

32 52

122

32

Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire

Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Hertfordshire / Kent / Sussex / Surrey

Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire

MID COUNTRY

Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands

ON THE COVER The Pig in the South Downs, p86

EAST ANGLIA

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in Great British & Irish Hotels is taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35). The annual competition showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. lpoty.co.uk

Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk

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THE NORTH

150 156 164 172 176

WALES & THE MARCHES SCOTLAND IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND PRIVATE HOUSES INDEX

County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire

95

HOTEL PRICES ARE ALL B&B UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

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BRITISH LUXURY LEATHER WWW.ETTINGER.CO.UK

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25 An Autumn Evening in Llanrwst, Conway, Wales, by Llewelyn Thorold. LPOTY: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

Editor’s LETTER

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PHOTOS: © BEN CARPENTER

elcome to this, the 11th edition of our guide to great places to stay – to relax, unwind, kick back, have fun and take a break from the fretful and demanding world in which we live. Never before, in my opinion, have havens of hospitality, whether reassuringly expensive or refreshingly affordable, been so appreciated by hard-working individuals, couples and families wanting to step away from the carousel in order to rest, restore and revive.

At Country & Town House, we strive to promote ‘A Life in Balance’ and we hope that our selection of hotels and private houses, from city temples of luxury and gastronomy such as the Ritz and the Goring to simple 99 inns in beautiful countryside, such as The Cat and the George & Dragon, reflects this too. Our emphasis on the overwhelming importance of sustainability is once again put centre stage with our second C&TH x Polestar’s UK & Irish Sustainable Hotel of the Year Award. You can find editorial director Lucy Cleland’s feature on the proud and worthy winner this year, and the highly commended runners up on page 14.

Other features echo our emphasis on a more balanced back-to-nature, slowtravel life, with a round-up of rewilding havens you can call your own for the weekend by Fleur Britten (p24) and an equally useful description of the seven best routes you can take in Britain and Ireland on a train (p162). In my own feature, I trumpet mid-price hotels; squeezed between luxury and budget, they have never shone in the past but now the best of them can rival places that cost twice as much (p46) . And finally, Sophia Money-Coutts has hilariously described six types – from the Bohemian Peasants (big wild swimmers) to Dog Comes First (better than their owners’ real children because Digby the chocolate labradoodle never rings up asking for money) whom you are sure to spot on your next staycation (p42).

We also include, as ever, a useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or family (p172), and dotted through the guide you will find useful lists – of outdoor theatres, cultural spots and more – that might lure you to a particular region for your much needed break.

Once again, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to writers Emma Love and Harriet Compston.

I do hope you enjoy this latest edition of our guide as much as we have creating it.

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EXPERIENCE THE

unforgettable

At Grantley Hall, stately grandeur meets modern indulgence. Discover 47 luxurious bedrooms and suites, five sophisticated restaurants, three stunning bars and award-winning spa and wellness facilities. Authentic Yorkshire charm radiates from the 17th century estate that is nestled within a breathtakingly beautiful and historic region on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales.

Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3ET | +44(0) 1765 620070 | hello@grantleyhall.co.uk | grantleyhall.co.uk

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CONTRIBUTORS

Which Travel Tribe Are You?, p42

An Estate of One’s Own, p24

Sustainable Hotel of the Year Award photography, p14

Which Travel Tribe Are You? illustrations, p42

SOPHIA MONEY-COUTTS

FLEUR BRITTEN

CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY

HANNAH RIORDAN

Where do you go to escape?

Catalonia in Northern Spain, where my dad and step-mother live. It’s the most wonderful patch of the country – quite wild and hilly in parts, but with some great beaches too.

A holiday to remember?

My first trip to Cape Town.

Baboons ransacking our AirBnB. The vineyards. The charcuterie platters. The earlymorning hikes. The people.

I love that place so much.

Favourite hidden-gem shop?

Any independent bookshop, anywhere in the world. I recently found a great one in Brooklyn called Greenlight Bookstore.

What will you be reading on holiday this year? An escapist romantic comedy called The Right Place, set in Provence, and about a dilapidated hotel.

It’s Fawlty Towers meets The White Lotus by a writer called Sophia Money-Coutts, who isn’t too bad on a good day.

Where do you go to escape?

There’s nothing like a road trip to the Highlands for putting hundreds of miles between you and the to-do list. I haven’t found any time of year when it hasn’t been wildly beautiful.

A holiday to remember?

A couple of years ago we went to Burgh Island in Devon. It’s connected to the mainland by a sand spit – at low tide, you walk to the island; at high, everyone takes the sea tractor back.

Favourite hidden-gem shop?

The very thought of The Pump Street Bakery’s buttery eccles cakes and sublime craft chocolate is practically enough to warrant the trip out to Orford, Suffolk, just to stock up.

What will you be reading on holiday this year? I can’t believe I’m this late to the Barbara Kingsolver party. After reading Demon Copperhead, I’m happy that I have such a high-quality bibliography ahead of me.

Where do you go to escape?

My escape is the mountains, Chamonix is my go to. A few days spent ski touring in the Mont Blanc massif is all I need to feel competely rejuvenated.

A holiday to remember?

One of my most memorable holidays was Alaska. Such a wild rugged place with astonishing views and landscapes at every turn.

Favourite hidden-gem shop?

A camera shop in Copenhagen called One Of Many Cameras.

For a camera geek like me its a treasure trove of weird and wonderful old cameras and lenses.

What will you be reading on holiday this year? The Living Mountain by Nan Shepherd.

It’s been recommended to me by several friends. It’s the story of the authors journeys into the Cairngorm Mountains in Scotland and her quest for the essence of nature.

Where do you go to escape?

I love to visit the Barbican Conservatory when I’m in London. It’s such a tranquil space and a great antidote to the hustle and bustle of the city.

A holiday to remember? I went to Glencoe last summer for a couple of days and was blessed with glorious sunshine. A rare sight for Scotland. There was such beautiful scenery in every direction and many hidden lochs and waterfalls to explore.

Favourite hidden-gem shop?

I stumbled across Atelier Brighton last year and it has now become a firm favourite.

It is a gallery, shop and workshop space with a beautiful selection of art and homeware from independent makers.

What will you be reading on holiday this year?

Arrangements in Blue by Amy Key and Worry by Alexandra Tanner. I love sketching while I’m listening to books on holiday.

LOOK I NG FOR YOU R N E X T A DV E N T U R E ?

Sign up to the C&TH monthly travel newsletter — and you’ll never say you’re out of ideas for where to go next. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter countryandtownhousemagazine

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Hästens 2000T® Experience the bed of your dreams at your nearest Hästens store.

Photography Simon Procter

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GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS FIONA DUNCAN EDITOR

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR LUCY CLELAND EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF EDITOR-AT-WILD FIONA DRUMMOND DEPUTY EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM ASSISTANT EDITOR & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER, ANDREW BRASSLEAY FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY TRAVEL EDITOR-AT-LARGE FRAN KELLETT SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY ONLINE ASSISTANT MARTHA DAVIES SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER DANIELLA LAXTON CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA DESIGN & PRODUCTION MIA BIAGIONI ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR PANDORA LEWIS ACCOUNT DIRECTOR SERENA KNIGHT DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN SALES SUPPORT, OFFICE & B CORP PROJECT MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER GARETH MORRIS FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC

THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Hampstead, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £39.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and Android all for only £9.99/month, visit: exacteditions.com/ read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse. co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2024 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

WHAT A CARVE UP! T H E C O U N T R Y & T O W N H O U S E X P O L E S TA R

S U S TA I N A B L E H O T E L O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D 2 0 2 4

The Pigs have won this year’s Sustainable Hotel of the Year Award with Polestar – we tell you how they’re going the whole hog sustainably, plus profile the other hotels that are excelling at being green. By LUCY CLELAND PHOTOGRAPHER CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY

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C&TH X POLESTAR SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARD

Polestar 2 sits perfectly outside Pig-on the South Downs in Sussex, one of ten Pig hotels around the country

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25 The Pigs’ holistic and very creative approach to sustainability makes staying there a joy and an education

L

ast year saw the launch of Country & Town House’s Sustainable Hotel of the Year Award, in conjunction with EV marque Polestar. It was cheering to dive deep into some of the extraordinarily committed work that was going on quietly behind the elegant bones of some of our most hallowed hotels.

This year, we were curious to understand how they had progressed on their journey to sustainability, as well as being keen to encourage new entries from every corner of our isles and Ireland. We were delighted that establishments – from gracious city grand dames such as the Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge to deeply rural boutique B&Bs like Breac.House and private houses such as Keythorpe Hall in Leicestershire – took time to fill in our wide-ranging questionnaire, which delved into everything from local employment rates and living wages to food supply chains and social impact policies.

Of course, there is no such thing as perfection, although this year did see one hotel, Whatley Manor in Wiltshire, become Britain’s first ‘climate-positive’ hotel. Under the forward-thinking leadership of Sue Williams, who has now moved on, the hotel has spent five years on a detailed and ambitious programme to reduce its Scope 1, 2 and 3 carbon emissions, achieving EarthCheck Silver certification (one of the world’s leading certification, consulting and advisory groups for sustainable destinations and tourism) in 2022 and joining NOW’s Climate Positive Programme to intensify its actions in global climate projects. How did it become climate positive? This has been achieved by investing in gold-standard offsetting – not everyone’s answer to the reduction needed on our own patch but for now part of a jigsaw of solutions.

More progression was seen by hotels like The Hari in Belgravia which last year hired its first sustainability manager to oversee strategy for the hotel, which has nice touches such as free bike hire, a living wall and The Hari Art Prize programme for aspiring artists.

Some hotels, of course, have embedded sustainability from the off. The Inhabit hotel brand, for example, is a B Corp business that puts wellness and sustainability at the heart of what it does. We particularly admired its extensive network of green and socially minded suppliers, partnering with other B Corps where possible, such as Social Supermarket which supplies lovely products from social enterprises or purpose-led brands for the minibars.

We introduced this prize not only to

celebrate the hospitality industry’s drive and determination to be part of the change we must all embrace, but to also share learnings and spotlight practices to encourage others to take their first green steps. It’s a rewarding if challenging journey, but to futureproof your business and attract a new and younger cohort of guests who are more sustainably minded, it’s a must-do, not a nice-to-have.

But this will only matter if hotels are also providing a wonderful place to stay; desirable for their impeccable eco credentials, for sure, but also for service, accessibility, food, atmosphere, design and comfort – and their influence and impact on the industry at large – which is where our judges really got to work.

T H E J U D GI N G PA N E L

FIONA DUNCAN Fiona Duncan has been writing about hotels for nearly 40 years and is the Telegraph’s hotel critic; she knows what makes an unmistakably good hotel.

JULIET KINSMAN One of the UK’s best known sustainability travel journalists, broadcaster, consultant and author, Juliet also runs purpose-led consultancy Bouteco.

FRANCISCA KELLETT Self-proclaimed eco nut and hotel junkie, and one of the UK’s leading travel writers and editors, Fran is a regular face on panels about conservation and philanthropic travel.

PETRA PETTERSSON Polestar’s Inclusion Lead is charged with promoting its vision and strategy on human rights, equality and diversity, as well as being part of the Sustainability team.

LUCY CLELAND Editorial Director of C&TH, driving the media group’s sustainability agenda – which included becoming the world’s first glossy magazine to attain B Corp certification in 2023.

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C&TH X POLESTAR SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARD

THE WINNER

The Pigs

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ne of last year’s Highly Commended hotels, The Pig chain, in which there are now ten, has scooped the top spot as Country & Town House x Polestar’s Sustainable Hotel(s) of the Year.

Polestar’s Petra Pettersson, who forensically examined entries from a data and analytic viewpoint, honing in particularly on carbon reduction, gave each entry a score and The Pigs are definitely in clover. ‘They really seem to be working strategically with sustainability and integrating it into operations in a very structured way,’ she says.

‘They’re looking at their total impact, setting goals and measuring and tracking them through the Science Based Targets Initiative.’

Plus, she adds, ‘They also look at circularity such as reducing resources, recycling, minimising waste, enhancing biodiversity, and they also understand the “social” element of sustainability and work with structured and established measurements.’

It was unanimously agreed that since last year The Pigs had shifted the dial in terms of real accountability. They’ve always been known for their local ethos but embedding scientific targets into their carbon accounting means the difference between proper data and guesswork.

Founder and Chairman of The Pigs, Robin Hutson, said: ‘Together with The Pig team, I am completely thrilled that everyone’s hard work in this important area has been recognised in winning this prestigious award. Sustainability for us has been part of our way of life since day one (some 13 years ago now). We continue on that journey - one that I suspect is never truly over.’

‘In the last ten years,’ says Fiona, ‘The Pig hotels have revolutionised the country hotel scene in the UK, creating enchanting rural boltholes that are rooted in nature and their surroundings.

They have led the way, as much in their attention to the environment as in style and the example they have set with their superb sustainability practices will surely influence the whole industry.’ It was noted that their continued improvements are impressive, especially as they are no longer independent.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

‘Watching them grow their portfolio, they could have compromised the integrity of their brand, and knowing private equity firm KSL Capital Partners recently got involved seemed at odds with their “homegrown” indie spirit,’ says Juliet, ‘but on balance, if they can scale how they host in a way that gets more guests closer to caring about nature and food systems, then that’s exciting. And I would hope the American private equity team connected to these porcine hosts will let their decisions be guided also by green ethics and on not just economics as they grow, grow, grow.’

So what can other hotels learn from this brand? Tracking everything is something they really excel at: from volunteer hours taken (last year every team member got three paid days off for volunteering, clocking up 1,034 hours), to water, waste and energy usage, to the number of seedlings planted; and initiatives like a habitat and species audits (just at one location), it’s getting into the minutiae of operations that really stands out.

It’s also about getting involved in local initiatives and embedding themselves in the communities in which they operate. For example, The Pig in the South Downs donated to the South Downs National Park Trust’s Bee Lines appeal, which helps restore pollinator habitat. The Pig at Harlyn Bay partnered with Surfers Against Sewage in Cornwall, contributing to beach cleans and environmental advocacy.

The Pig (the OG in the New Forest) funded information resources for the New Forest Trust, supporting their efforts to protect New Forest ponies.

Food is a huge area in which all hotels can really contribute to better practices, through supplier choice, local sourcing

‘In the last ten years, The Pigs have revolutionised the COUNTRY HOTEL scene, creating enchanting rural boltholes that are rooted in nature. Their SUSTAINABILITY practices will surely influence the whole industry’ and seasonal menus, and the reduction of meat. Waste can be reduced significantly and even eradicated – although this is easier for rural hotels with composting facilities on site.

Food has always been at the heart of The Pigs, with their famous kitchen gardens and 25-mile menus. By making simple swaps like offering pear and apple juice instead of orange, and producing their own honey, using the surplus breakfast items in lunch and dinner service (like croissants in puddings), creativity can really come into play – celebrating food in a responsible way but still keeping it outstanding.

And what about the future? Can we be assured that this group will continue to fly the sustainability flag, given the aforementioned new ownership? Looking at its ambitions for the next year at least, it looks like we can rest assured. It’s applied for B Corp certification, which it hopes to attain in 2024; it has set targets around hiring apprentices and reaching 2,000 hours of volunteering; and it is training all of the hotel directors in DEI and Belonging – with a 2024 focus on neurodiversity.

Unique plans afoot also include launching a candle-end recycling scheme, rolling out the habitat and ecology audit to other sites, and creating more creature-friendly habitats.

There are also ambitious reduction targets against energy, waste and mileage across the board. The Pigs are definitely flying. thepighotel.com

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C&TH X POLESTAR SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARD

The rural locations of most of The Pigs are ideal for working with nature as a partner

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WE ALSO LOVED...

These places to stay also scored high in the sustainability stakes

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BREAC.HOUSE, County Donegal, Ireland

Proof that small doesn’t mean unsustainable, Breac.House – which has only four bedrooms – exemplifies ‘sensitive, delightfully small-scale conscious hospitality,’ says Juliet. ‘This is exactly the kind of independent low-key-luxe B&B we should all seek out and support whenever we can.’ Owners Cathrine Burke and Niall Campbell prove that you can manage sustainability strategically and efficiently through proper measurements and monitoring. As they say themselves: ‘Sustainability is now a way of life for us.

We track our rainwater harvesting levels and energy consumption daily with smart apps, and every decision we make is always informed by our sustainability philosophy.’ breac.house

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DISCLAIMER: JULIET KINSMAN HAS WORKED AS A SUSTAINABILITY CONSULTANT WITH A HANDFUL OF THE ENTRIES INTO THIS YEAR’S SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARD, INCLUDING MANDARIN ORIENTAL AND INHABIT. ALL JUDGES WERE MADE AWARE OF THIS AT THE START AND SHE STAYED OUT OF ANY

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

DISCLAIMER: JULIET KINSMAN HAS WORKED AS A SUSTAINABILITY CONSULTANT WITH A HANDFUL OF THE ENTRIES INTO THIS YEAR’S SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARD, INCLUDING MANDARIN ORIENTAL AND INHABIT. ALL JUDGES WERE MADE AWARE OF THIS AT THE START AND SHE STAYED OUT OF ANY DECISION-MAKING AROUND MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BUT COULD CORROBORATE THE FACTS SET OUT IN THEIR ENTRY.

C&TH X POLESTAR SUSTAINABLE HOTEL OF THE YEAR AWARDS

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HECKFIELD PLACE, Hampshire

‘Heckfield Place is a dream of a hotel, and its approach to soil only makes it more so. Full marks for bringing the idea of biodynamic farming into the mainstream,’ notes Francisca, while Juliet says, ‘I salute Heckfield Place heartily for sexing up the topic of soil as they have since the start of their biodynamic journey – and I’d urge anyone who goes to stay there to have a proper look around their grounds and hear first-hand how and why they aim to be kinder to the environment.’ High praise indeed for this Hampshire hotel that is also hoping to become B Corp-certified in the near future and has chef Skye Gyngell at the helm of the restaurants – Marle and Hearth – meaning food will be as deliciously creative as it is sustainable. heckfieldplace.com

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THE BULL INN, Totnes

Highly commended by us last year, this trailblazer in Totnes (dubbed ‘the most forward-thinking eco settlement in the UK’ by the Guardian) continues to lead the charge in an exciting and creative way. This includes the launch of a fish and chip shop which encourages customers to ‘eat the alien’ i.e. rather than using certain types of fish stock that are endangered, they’re educating the public about other changing tastes towards creatures that are in vast quantity. Their innovative approach to their wine list is also something that others could learn from – by moving their house wine to BiBs (Bag in a Box), they’ve saved 14kg of glass from being transported on a weekly basis. ‘I love how they wear their hearts on their sleeves with their “no bull” communications that tell guests exactly what they’re doing and why,’ says Francisca. bullinntotnes.co.uk

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MANDARIN ORIENTAL, Knightsbridge, London

The Mandarin Oriental is an impressive example of a large-scale city hotel making fantastic efforts in this space, with an opportunity to have a huge impact on the luxury industry at large. Their work with renewable energy is of distinct note; they have partnered with Naked Energy to install a solar heat technology on the rooftop, with which they aim to cut the building’s carbon emissions significantly. Another innovative approach is their use of Winnow Vision, which is an AI-powered food waste management system that has allowed them to decrease their food waste by 50g per cover since it was implemented last May. While it can be more difficult to source food locally in the city, they prioritise Fairtrade and sustainable certified products. mandarinoriental.com/en/london/hyde-park n

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

An

ESTATE

of ONE’S OWN

A luxurious rewilded haven you can call your own for the weekend? Yes please, says Fleur Britten

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W

hat is luxury these days? Somehow the thought of drinking rosé on the superyacht in the Med feels a bit passé now, a bit meaningless.

Splashy luxury is out, quiet, conscious luxury is in, so it’s perhaps unsurprising that on Britain’s more progressive grand estates, the manicured formal gardens have given way to something altogether scruffier – because it’s better for the planet. As the rewilding revolution takes hold, and rare native species return to the land, so too have we, drawn to the health-giving properties of connecting with nature. It helps that the landed families have raised the game with more luxe, eco-minded self-catering holiday cottages, with Ai Weiwei on the walls and jeep safaris and wild swimming on the menu. ‘Before lockdown, the idea of swimming in a dark and very cold lake was not something that people associated with luxury,’ says Hugh Crossley, 4th Baron Somerleyton. ‘But now I think that’s changed. People aren’t so keen just to spend their way into luxury.’ Here, then, are four of the best grand estates offering luxuriously sustainable self-catering holidays.

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BROUGHTON SANCTUARY, North Yorkshire

ABOVE & LEFT: Broughton Sanctuary

ABOVE & BELOW: Fritton Lake

It says a lot about what ‘cool’ means these days that the 3,000acre Broughton Sanctuary in the Yorkshire Dales features in National Geographic’s 2024 Cool Destinations List. For the last four years, the focus of the estate – under the custodianship of the Tempest family since 1097 – has been its return to nature.

‘We wanted to give nature a proper home,’ explains Roger Tempest. ‘The days of industrial agriculture should be over.’ The estate’s intensive sheep farming has been converted to regenerative agriculture or rewilded land: 400,000 native hardwood trees have been planted, increasing the estate’s tree cover from six percent to 20 percent. Fences have been removed and Belted Galloway cows have been introduced (beavers soon, Roger promises). Even guests can get involved, planting trees and tracking wildlife.

As well as being out in nature, guests can also attend to their ‘inner nature’, as Roger puts it. The wellness programme offers wild swimming, moonbathing, foraging and retreats hosted by Ruby Wax, among others. The 19 self-catering holiday homes, including barns, farmhouses, cottages and gate lodges, also offer the cool factor with interiors from The Conran Shop, Ercol and Andrew Martin.

BOOK IT: From £520 for three nights. broughtonsanctuary.co.uk

2

FRITTON LAKE, Suffolk

It would be easy enough to spend your entire stay at Fritton Lake, a 250-acre resort on the estate of Somerleyton Hall, luxuriating in its members’ club perks. There’s the outdoor pool that’s warm all year round, the French clay and grass tennis courts, a croquet lawn, the clubhouse that serves club classics such as fish pie, gourmet burgers and mac’n’cheese, a two-mile lake for paddleboarding and wild swimming, with a floating sauna and private beach, plus 35 self-catering cabins dotted around the lake, woods and meadows (for maximum luxury, check out the design-led, Japandi-style Koto cabins). But its eco credentials are also front and centre. That pool is mostly heated by a ground-source pump. The meat on the menu is mostly sourced from the estate’s ‘wildstock’ of free-roaming water buffalo, deer, cattle and sheep, introduced as part of Somerleyton’s rewilding programme, and of course there’s fruit and veg from its market garden and regenerative farm, which is pickled and preserved at harvest time to provide for winter’s ‘hungry gap’. For Baron Somerleyton, the driving force behind the rewilding, the greatest luxury is Fritton Lake’s expanse of unspoilt space: ‘Being at one with nature, being able to run a trail rather than on the treadmill, having a sauna after swimming in the lake, that’s the luxury people come for.’

BOOK IT: From £200 a night. frittonlake.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 25

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

‘You can tell by the look of the estate,’ explains Tara Gladstone, great-great-great-granddaughter of former 19th-century prime minister William Gladstone, and director of Hawarden Estate holidays, which are hosted at the family seat in North Wales. ‘It’s not highly manicured anymore, it’s quite wild – it creates a certain vibe.’ It’s one that communicates that nature reigns. The Gladstones have converted their own farming to organic, and most of the parkland to wildflower meadows. Guests of its three self-catering properties can pick their own organic berries, learn how to forage for mushrooms, and buy homegrown produce in Hawarden’s awardwinning farm shop. Outdoorsy pursuits include guided tree walks, cookery workshops and children’s drawing classes. If that all sounds a bit earthy, the freshly renovated west wing of Hawarden Castle (pronounced ‘Harden’, by the way) amply caters for luxury appetites.

This grandly proportioned five-bedroomed apartment boasts original art by Ai Weiwei, Damien Hirst and Julian Opie, in among the Old Masters: ‘It’s like being in an art gallery,’ says Tara. Its private garden offers outdoor dining, a wood-fired pizza oven, Green Egg barbecue, sauna and hot tub. A home from home, they say. We wish.

BOOK IT: The West End at Hawarden, from £1,320 for a three-night weekend. hawardenestateholidays.co.uk

Hawarden Estate

The Bothy at Knepp

4

KNEPP ESTATE, Sussex

Luxury, says Isabella Tree, the visionary behind Britain’s OG rewilded estate, Knepp, is ‘staying somewhere where someone has thought very carefully about [the environment] for you so you don’t have to feel bad about it.’ Very little at Knepp Estate places a burden on the planet – for example, the flooring of the Bothy (one of two self-catering offerings – both repurposed cow sheds) is made with the wood of a 300-year-old cedar felled by the 1987 storm. Both properties have super-comfortable, natural-fibre mattresses and organic cotton bedlinen, and even the soap comes in greaseproof paper bags inviting you to take it home to minimise waste. What’s more, the ‘wildrange’ meat – from the free-roaming Old English Longhorn cattle, Tamworth pigs, and red and fallow deer – is about as sustainable as it’s possible to be. Other rare native species now populating the estate include nightingales, turtle doves, purple emperor butterflies, storks and kingfishers.

BOOK IT: £980 for a week’s stay at the Bothy or the Dairy. knepp.co.uk n

PHOTOS: © LIA BRAZIER ; ©DEPARTMENT TWO

3

HAWARDEN ESTATE, Wales

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THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING SCOTLAND AT ITS VERY BEST

With exclusive tweeds, cutting-edge technical brands and unrivalled natural fibre knitwear ranges, The House of Bruar has everything you need to enjoy town and country life to the full, whether you’re preparing for your favourite country pursuits or dressing up for special occasions. We also offer the best of Scotland’s natural larder in our Foodhall with an expansive selection of culinary delights from smoked meats to sweat treats, and an impressive Whisky Shop and luxury Fish & Chip Shop - where lobster tops the menu! Visit our Country Living & Present Shop for extra-special handmade gifts for all the family or meander through our rural Art Gallery that celebrates the spirit of the Scottish landscape and its wildlife. Located just off the A9 ten miles north of Pitlochry we promise a truly unique day out.

WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM Call 01796 483 236 to request a copy of our mail order catalogue | The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

theLIST

1

Five Hot Hotel Openings AMY WAKEHAM celebrates the coolest additions to the British hospitality scene

1

4

Six Senses BAYSWATER, LONDON

London’s first Six Senses hotel will be in the landmark Whiteley Department Store redevelopment. The Art Deco building has been reimagined to feature 109 luxurious guest rooms and suites, as well as a renowned Six Senses Spa. Rates TBC, sixsenses.com

2

MAYFAIR, LONDON

2

MANCHESTER

The motel group by Soho House has taken over Manchester’s Old Granada Studios, reinventing the legendary 1950s building with 128 rooms and suites, a diner, bar and live music venue, and its own contemporary art collection. From £120, mollies.com

The Emory

London’s latest luxury hotspot, The Emory features seven suites created by leading interior designers. Its restaurant, abc Kitchens, features artworks

by Damien Hirst, and is helmed by JeanGeorges Vongerichten. The cherry on the top

Mollie’s

3

is the exclusive Surrenne members’ club, four floors of immersive health, fitness and beauty services. From £2,000, the-emory.co.uk

3

5

The Store OXFORD

Oxford’s famous Boswells department store has been transformed into a hotel, restaurant and spa. Its hidden rooftop cocktail bar – with views across the dreaming spires – is set to become the coolest spot for a sundowner.

From £285, B&B. thestoreoxford.com

Estelle Manor OXFORDSHIRE

The latest country club on everyone’s lips, this hotel – with private members’ perks – is housed in a beautiful Grade II-listed manor. There are 108 rooms, suites and cottages, three restaurants, and an exquisite 3,000 sq/m Roman-inspired spa, Eynsham Baths. From £550, estellemanor.com

5

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Falmouth Khaki & Ocean Suede

BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON

MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879

Our interpretation of a classic summer Boat Shoe featuring our new Rubber Wedge Sole

CROCKETTANDJONES.COM

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theWEEKENDER Adejoké Bakare, founder and head chef of Michelin-starred restaurant Chishuru, has all the right ingredients for her perfect weekend

Favourite place to escape at the weekend? I live far out

in east London so from time to time I treat myself to a night in a West End hotel, particularly if I’m out with the girls.

I love The Hoxton in Holborn and there’s a great little bar in the basement called La Cave.

How do you like your eggs? There’s a form of eggs in Nigeria that’s really popular to serve on Saturdays. It’s very simple: red peppers, tomatoes and eggs with chilli sauce, like a frittata but deconstructed and slightly soupy. Delicious.

And how do you take your coffee? I’ll make myself a moringa latte: frothy hot milk flavoured with moringa powder (moringa is a tree leaf with a green tea flavour, like matcha) and a cube or two of good sugar if I’m naughty.

Are you be going out on your perfect Saturday night? I’ll be dancing upstairs at Ronnie Scott’s with my friends Ari and Shereener, or perched on a stool at Quality Wines in Farringdon to enjoy whatever my pal Nick Bramham is cooking, ideally his silky tagliatelle with crab followed by a Sicilian cannolo.

What’s your cocktail order? My business partner Matt loves tiki cocktails and has got me into the Painkiller: navy rum, pineapple juice, orange juice and cream of coconut.

And if you’re staying in? I’m mostly sleeping! I tend to be exhausted at the end of the week.

Will you be cooking? I’m always tempted by a takeaway, particularly one from Tasty African Food. They do proper Nigerian dishes, and you’ll find branches all over London.

What’s your perfect weekend outfit? For the Michelin ceremony, I got myself a black smock Cecilie Bahnsen dress. It’s the most expensive item I’ve ever bought but I felt like a million dollars. I love to wear it with chunky black boots – I’m not a heels person at all. At home you’ll find me under multiple layers of comfy clothing - I feel the cold terribly.

If you go for a walk, where would you go? There’s a walking route from the Olympic park in Stratford, not far from where I live, to Hackney, where I shop or go out. They’re trying to reintroduce wild flowers along the path there and when they’re in bloom it’s lovely.

Will you be doing any exercise? Absolutely not!

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The chef; Cecilie Bahnsen dress; Slow Horses, starring Gary Oldman; the awardwinning food at Chishuru

Is there anything else that would make a perfect weekend for you? Maybe a trip to Planque in Haggerston. It’s a wine-focused

restaurant in a converted railway arch and it looks like something out of a movie. Seb Myers cooks there and his food is always wonderful, while Audrey Annoh-Antwi is the warmest, loveliest sommelier. chishuru.com n

DOWN TIME WHAT ARE YOU READING? Cookbooks – like Phil Howard’s book from his legendary former restaurant, The Square. AND WATCHING? I’m re-watching Slow Horses on Apple TV. Gary Oldman is just brilliant in it.

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Knowing

you can say yes to dinner with friends old and new, because you don’t have to arrange the plumber, the gardener, or anything actually.

FROM 24-HOUR CONCIERGE TO DAILY HOUSEKEEPING. This is The Art of Knowing.

EXCEPTIONAL RESIDENCES AND AMENITIES FOR THE OVER 65s FROM £2.75M*. CALL 020 4538 6933.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

DEVON & CORNWALL

Stories of myths and legends abound in this most compelling of regions. But, from the wind-swept stretches of sand to the heather-strewn moors, the reality is just as brilliant as the fantasy

Orange-tip in Summer Colour, Lundy Bay, Cornwall, England, by Thomas Easterbrook, winner of Young Landscape Photographer of the Year, Intimate View, 2023.

LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton’s Artist Residence (now there are five locations across the country). In the charming old quarter of Penzance, they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art and a quirky collection of furniture (packing crate tables, sleigh beds) throughout. Rooms include the Chapel Suite, which comes with a brass bathtub in the living area, and the Mini Lookout, an open-plan apartment for three tucked away in the eaves with sea views (ideal for families). The café-bar-restaurant hangout has reclaimed wooden walls, metal tables and art to enjoy alongside your food.

Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner, courtesy of the smoker in the garden. Here, you’ll also find a bar, table tennis and ping pong, and an al fresco seafood shack serving local lobster rolls, chargrilled steaks and frozen margaritas. An excellent base for exploring this charming corner of Cornwall.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk

BEDRUTHAN HOTEL & SPA MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL

Inspired by the work of architect Richard Neutra, family-friendly Bedruthan Hotel & Spa is a striking beachfront escape on the North Cornwall coast and the sister of eco-retreat Scarlet Hotel (see p49). It was designed to connect people with the natural landscape, with floor-to-ceiling windows bringing the outside in and making the most of the stunning sea vistas. Inside, furnishings showcase pops of playful colour and walls act as a gallery for some of the finest work by painters like Alex Morton & Victoria Young Jamieson. Relax and unwind in the indoor thermal spa, which offers a place to chat or snooze in the warmth of the hydropool, sauna, pool and caldarium. The Sensory Spa Garden invigorates the senses, with a cedar barrel sauna, herbal scrubs and wood-fired hot tubs. Or enjoy one of the daily craft sessions available. You can also dine on delicious cuisine in the Wild Cafe, with its oven-fresh baked goods and heartwarming bowls of seasonal ingredients. While pictureque Ogo, celebrates the everchanging coastline, using seasonal veg grown locally alongside sustainably caught fish and ethically farmed meat.

Doubles from £155, B&B +44 (0)1637 861200; bedruthan.com 34 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

BOVEY CASTLE

DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK, DEVON

First opened as a hotel and golf resort in 1930

by Great Western Railways, Bovey Castle is set in 275 acres of Devon countryside, surrounded by Dartmoor National Park and is part of the Eden Hotel Collection. Choose from cosy, elegant rooms in the historic manor house or private mews across the courtyard.

There are also three-storey self-catering lodges in the grounds, ideal for families or friends travelling together who want independence while still being able to dip into all the hotel has to offer. This could include watching a complimentary falconry display, collecting eggs from the estate’s chickens or booking in for a massage at the Elan Spa (the lodges come with fully equipped kitchens, open plan living and dining, and housekeeping). Executive Head Chef Mark Budd uses fresh ingredients from Devon and the South West to create seasonal menus for one-AA Rosette Smith’s Brasserie (in the summer, sit on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the River Bovey) and three-AA Rosette Great Western Grill. Activities available include everything from golf to archery, and from off-road driving to fly fishing and cider making.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1647 445000; boveycastle.com

THE BULL INN TOTNES, DEVON

This radically ethical pub with rooms at the top of Totnes high street is run with a people and planet-first ethos and guided by a triumvirate of its own ‘No-Bull Rules’ for how to dine, trade and work in the most eco-minded way possible. That means organic beer and wine alongside simple, seasonal veg-led food (grown not flown, much from nearby Riverford Farm), day boat fish and ‘mindful meat’ for the daily changing menu in the restaurant. Nine sustainably designed and stylish rooms feature lime-plastered walls, reclaimed furniture, reworked vintage fabrics, handmade tiles, organic mattresses and linens, and artisan-made lighting. None of this comes as a surprise when you learn that the owner is Geetie Singh-Watson, who opened the world’s first official organic pub, The Duke of Cambridge, in Islington in 1998. For families, there is The Albatross, a four-bedroom, self-catering apartment across the road with a private terrace. Plus, there is an event space where all kinds of creative workshops (drawing, watercolours, making with willow), classes and talks are held.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1803 640040; bullinntotnes.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 35

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

CARY ARMS & SPA

BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Visitors descend a cliff lane and dramatic views of the English Riviera unfold. Once ensconced in the cosseting welcome of Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary – you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one. Its delightful bedrooms, with echoes of New England style, are each supplied with a stick of rock on the snow-white pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seaside-fresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. Nine smart cottages sleep larger groups (including the latest addition, Foxes Walk, a real showstopper), each with their own gardens and sundowner spots. While you wouldn’t usually expect sybaritic luxury at a self-styled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-ofthe-art spa with a hydrotherapy pool, steam and sauna, and holistic Gaia treatments.

Romantic, family friendly, perfect for walkers and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk

THE COLLECTIVE AT WOOLSERY WOOLSERY, DEVON

Set in the pretty village of Woolsery in the wilds of North Devon, The Collective is the genius creation of tech entrepreneurs Michael and Xochi Birch. In 2018, the couple transformed the local pub The Farmers Arms into a fantastic restaurant, steeped in humour and style. Since then, they have breathed new life into the local chippy, village shop and post office, plus a 150-acre farm. There are a handful of beautiful cottages, suites and rooms, housed in village buildings, to bunk down in, from the retro-feminine Shop Suite One with its fabulous pastel palette to a historic former smithy-turned-contemporary cottage for two. Families will love Hillside Cottage, with its four roomy bedrooms and generous social spaces. Foodies are sorted, too, thanks to The Farmers Arms, which knocks out unapologetically British classics (don’t miss its stonking Sunday roast), using produce straight from the farm. Locally brewed ales and beers alongside seasonal cocktails and soft drinks (crafted from own-made syrups and cordials) line the cosy bar. The charming towns of Bideford, Barnstaple and Bude are also nearby.

Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1237 488480; woolsery.com 36 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

DITTISHAM HIDEAWAY DITTISHAM, DEVON

For those who like to glamp, rather than camp, Dittisham Hideaway is the answer, with its collection of treehouses, shepherds’ lodges and an American Airstream. Just outside the village of Dittisham, a mile from the River Dart and ten minutes’ drive from Dartmouth, the back-to-nature setting lives up to its name.

The only sounds at night are a gently babbling stream and the owls hooting in the trees. The four cedar-clad treehouses are ideal for up to two adults and three children, an d includes a welcome hamper for the first morning.

The most recent addition are the five largerthan-usual shepherds’ lodges sat in a wild flower meadow; one has a neighbouring mini children’s hut, kitted out with bunk beds, next door. The Airstream has been beautifully restored with burnt orange leather seats and a shiny space-like silver ceiling in the sitting area. All accommodation comes with a private deck, wood-fired hot tub and BBQ , and the majority is dog-friendly too. When you’re not out exploring, there is plenty to do onsite, too (think boules, table football, chess, ping pong, woodland walks, board games and books).

From £195 for a Shepherd’s Lodge or the American Airstream. From £275 for a treehouse. +44 (0)1803 925034; dittishamhideaway.co.uk

GARA ROCK

EAST PORTLEMOUTH, DEVON

Perched on a clifftop near Salcombe, Gara Rock began life as a coastguard station and lookout in 1847. In 2016, the transformation began to the beautiful boutique hotel you see today. Surrounded by picturesque countryside, the 33 bedrooms have calming sea views and sumptuous interiors. The ‘Out of the Ordinary’ accommodation steals the show, from the deliciously romantic Secret Suite to the plush three-bedroom Penthouse, with a freestanding roll top bath. Talented chef Paul Hegley heads up the kitchen, with the restaurant offering breath-taking views of the rugged coastline and a fine-dining experience that celebrates creativity and the best ingredients Devon has to offer. Relax at the Wild Rock Spa and zone out with a blissful treatment, swim a few lengths, or soak in the jacuzzi. And if the weather is on your side, head to the beach or along the South West Coast Path to make the most of the breathtaking views. This year, make the choice to escape to elegance at Gara Rock – a destination where every moment is an invitation to unwind, indulge, and savour some time just for you.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1548 845946; gararock.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 37

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THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard here in Cornwall and The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales (p38 & p153). Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, its sweeping views stretch over the crashing waves and gorse-covered Penwith moorland, dotted with passing cows. It’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. Our favourite is spacious Room 8 with its own log-burning stove and terrace. There are no TVs or phones. But any panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door, be that fish from day boats or vegetables from nearby growers.

Doubles from £167.50; from £255, inc dinner, B&B +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk

HELL BAY HOTEL BRYHER, ISLES OF SCILLY

California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher’s rugged west coast, in the Isles of Scilly. It’s the creation of the Dorrien-Smith family (custodians of the neighbouring island of Tresco) who have filled the waterfront hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection. Half of the 25 airy suites, most with stunning sea views, have been gently refreshed by Tania Streeter (she is behind The New Inn and cottages on Tresco), who has combined contemporary and antique furniture with sumptuous fabrics by the likes of Jane Churchill and Nina Campbell. You’ll also find a swimming pool, tennis court and fitness rooms, a yoga studio and treatment shed in the grounds. Islandinspired dishes made using local produce are served at Scilly’s only three AA Rosette restaurant (also recently revamped), and at The Crab Shack, a rustic former fisherman’s net loft with long tables and bench seating yards from the shoreline. For a simple supper, nothing tastes better than the Bryher crab.

And getting here is easy too, with a helicopter service from Cornwall to Tresco, then a short boat ride across the water.

Doubles from £105, B&B +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk 38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

HOTEL MEUDON

NR FALMOUTH, CORNWALL

Steeped in history thanks to its association with the Fox family, who were influential in the development of Falmouth in the 19th century, this Cornish hidden gem has nine acres of unique subtropical gardens that stretch down to a private beach, Bream Cove. An unspoilt paradise, it’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling, paddleboarding or picking up the South West Coast Path to go hiking. The hotel itself is fresh from an extensive, sympathetic refurbishment: expect mid-century inspired, light-filled rooms with comfy beds, aromatic bath products and gorgeous views (choose from garden, sea or inland) from the balcony or terrace.

The restaurant fully reflects its location and heritage, drawing influences from French classic haute cuisine (Meudon takes its title from the nearby farmhouses built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who were from a village of the same name in France) and seasonal dishes based around the finest, locally sourced ingredients. Ask for a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows and admire the blooms as you tuck in.

From £279, B&B for two nights incl. a two-course dinner for two +44 (0)1326 250541; meudon.co.uk

THE IDLE ROCKS ST MAWES, CORNWALL

Perched on the rocks in the heart of St Mawes on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula in South Cornwall, The Idle Rocks, a Relais & Châteaux hotel, features 19 individually designed suites providing the ultimate coastal escape in the utmost comfort and luxury.

A home away from home, this iconic hotel offers spectacular views over the harbour and Fal Estuary beyond from its thoughtfully designed bedrooms. Try Reef Knot at The Idle Rocks, a brand-new restaurant concept, where you can expect to experience the freshest of seasonal dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients including daily caught fish and sumptuous dishes complemented by an award-winning wine list. Whether you seek long lazy walks on the coastline, wild swimming or kayaking, the hotel is perfectly positioned to enjoy access to a range of experiences. Reflecting pure Cornish style and cosmopolitan elegance, The Idle Rocks is a boutique haven to retreat to throughout the year. The hotel’s sister property, St Mawes Hotel, is a short walk along the harbour and equipped with seven unique bedrooms and a hidden cinema for dinner and movie nights.

Doubles from £320 +44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 39

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

theWEEKENDER Photographer and conservationist David Yarrow captures his dream weekend

Favourite place to escape at the weekend? My work

takes me around the world, so my perfect weekend is to be at home near Salcombe in Devon. It’s our retreat and the family tends to congregate there.

Who are you spending this ideal weekend with, and what will you be doing with them? My family of four,

we’ve got two grown-up children. We play a bit of bad golf, go walking, and put the fire on.

How do you like your eggs? From living in America, I enjoy baking them – just put them into little pots and bake them in the oven with some chilli.

And how do you take your coffee? An espresso, from a very simple espresso machine.

Are you going out on Saturday night? Or are you staying in? I probably eat out at restaurants 310 days a year

because I’m on the road. So when we’re at home, we just do home cooking. I’ve got a barbecue called a Big Green Egg, and that would be the perfect way to spend at evening.

We did our Christmas turkey on it last year, but you can do steak, big prawns – or lamb chops is the best. If we go out we go to The Sloop pub in Bantham, Devon, for a pint.

What’s your drink order? I’m a whisky guy, so a single malt scotch. And then a nice bottle of red to go with the barbecue.

What’s your perfect weekend outfit? Comfort is key.

Very casual – just jeans and a T-shirt.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: David enjoys home cooking over an open barbecue; Salcombe, Devon; how David takes his coffee; Ripley on Netflix

If you go for a walk, where would you go?

My family often walk to a place called Hope Cove, which is about an hour and a half away, but I tend to just do a 30 minute walk on the coast path.

Will you be doing any exercise? Just playing some golf and very occasionally doing some sit-ups.

Is there anything else that would make a perfect weekend for you? I think the best thing about an ideal weekend is the

davidyarrow.photography n

DOWN TIME WHAT ARE YOU READING? Financial Times Weekend – I think it’s the best newspaper in the world. AND WATCHING? Whatever sport is going on, whether it’s football or rugby, and we’re also watching Ripley at the moment on Netflix.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PHILIPPE ANTONELLO / NETFLIX

ability to sleep in, which I’m very bad at. To have friends round, and play cards, and laugh and tell stories and jokes around the kitchen table while looking out to sea. It’s the simple things – you can’t really beat that.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

Which TRAVEL TRIBE Are You? Sophia Money-Coutts breaks down the types you’re sure to spot on your next staycation

THE DOG COMES FIRST

Digby is a nine-year-old chocolate Labrador, but to Bryan and Wendy he’s their fourth child. Better than their real children, actually, because Digby never rings up asking for money. They’re on the way to Scotland for a week’s fishing and are breaking their journey at a dog-friendly hotel in the Lake District that Bryan read about in The Telegraph. The room is a bit smaller than they were expecting and they only have UHT milk in the minibar (revolting, thinks Wendy), but there’s a large jar of dog treats, which Digby’s already spotted. They don’t think the food’s much cop at dinner, but they take a doggie bag upstairs afterwards, and while their bed is pretty rock solid, Digby seems happy in the sheepskin one they’ve provided. Wendy finds the dog’s snoring much less irritating than her husband’s.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY HANNAH RIORDAN

THE BOHEMIAN PEASANTS

Oliver and Madeleine are big wild swimmers, so they booked this hotel in Devon because it’s only a five-minute drive from Mothecombe beach, which they’ve read is quiet and secluded and not the sort of place that you find anyone in those preposterous Dryrobes, who’ve started swamping their favourite swimming spots. The other plus point of the hotel is that it’s run by an Italian couple who’ve turned it into an agriturismo project, meaning they grow their own vegetables, she makes the bread and pastries, and the eggs come from their bantams.

They even have their own charcuterie room. The granola at breakfast is excellent, Madeleine says, washing it down with homemade kefir.

The only downside is the cockerel outside, who started crowing before it got light. But we can’t interfere with nature, Oliver tells himself.

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THE EXPERIMENTAL EPICURE

Ivor has the iPhone 15 Pro because it’s the market leader for photo quality. He booked this hotel in Pembrokeshire because the chef has recently been given a Michelin star even though, as a Londoner, he wasn’t entirely sure where Pembrokeshire was (Scotland, was his first guess). The Sunday Times gave the hotel restaurant a dubious review, but what do they know? He booked the 11-course tasting menu (with wine pairing) seven months earlier and is much looking forward to it, even though he’s examined the menu online several times already and discovered that four courses involve seaweed. Ivor likes unusual ingredients; he often talks fondly of a bowl of spaghetti all’anemone in Catania, and in Tokyo he tried chicken sashimi. But seaweed is one of those ingredients Ivor’s not sure humans are meant to eat. He takes a photo of every dish, several times, and afterwards spends two hours editing them, before uploading them with multiple hashtags, including #delicious, #Michelinstar and #seaweed. Ivor wasn’t sure about the seaweed ice cream, if he’s honest, but it’s important to try these things. And he’s looking forward to telling his accountancy colleagues about it on Monday.

THE NOTTING HILL CROWD

Summer has been organising this hen weekend for several months. In July, her friend Astrid is getting married to a minor European royal on a Swedish island and all she wants is an intimate weekend away for her 23 closest girlfriends, so Summer booked multiple rooms at the new members’ hotel in the Cotswolds.

With lunches and dinners (not that anyone will eat much) and an afternoon in the spa it should cost around £1,700 a head, which Summer really doesn’t think is that bad considering a night out in Mayfair comes to nearly that much now.

One of the hens cries on the first evening when she lets slip that she’s going through a divorce, so Summer orders several more bottles of Ruinart blanc de blancs because nobody will notice them on the bill. No Mr and Mrs on the second evening because Summer doesn’t think it’s chic to discuss sexual positions but she does make everyone wear diamanté tiaras she found in this cute little thrift store called Claire’s. They discuss the merits of lab versus real diamonds throughout dinner before dancing on the banquettes to Dua Lipa. They find this new members’ club extremely comforting, because it’s just like being in London.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY HANNAH RIORDAN

THE TIKTOK INFLUENCERS

Jenna and Blake have packed four bags for two days in Somerset.

Two for their outfits; two for their equipment, which includes their softbox lighting kit, GoPros and laptops. Lauren emailed the hotel in advance asking for a discount because she and Blake have nearly 120,000 TikTok followers combined. The hotel said no and, even though this annoyed Jenna, she still wants to go because the outdoor pool looks lush and she’s packed her Skims bikini. Blake read on the hotel website that it offers falconry, and once he’d done some Googling about what that involved, he decided he was well up for a picture, so he’s said to Jenna they can shoot the pool first, so long as they can go and find the bird afterwards. When they arrive, Jenna’s disappointed that they don’t have a pool view, but she likes the pre-mixed mini bottles of negroni in the minibar and uploads a snap, geotagging the hotel with the caption ‘Nice touch.’ They get loads of content over the weekend, although Blake was bitten by the falcon and their train back home is delayed. He’s exhausted, he thinks, as he pulls Jenna’s bag along the platform. He’s sick of people slagging off the influencer game. It’s a lot harder than it looks.

THE JITTERY NEW PARENTS

It’s taken Sarah and Jasper four hours to reach the New Forest, but that’s mostly because she made him return to Fulham three times to ensure his mother understood how to work the baby monitor. Sarah had William eight months ago and this is her first weekend away from him. She cried for the first hour of the journey while Jasper determinedly listened to a podcast about the Middle East, but now they’ve arrived and it’s lovely. Four-poster bed, freestanding bath, and a bottle of champagne on ice. They absolutely did mean to make it downstairs for dinner, but after a glass of champagne, they had a little lie down and only woke, fully clothed, at midnight. Sarah rings Jasper’s mother four times before breakfast the next morning, which puts a dampener on the romantic lie-in, but he hopes the couples’ massage after breakfast will get them in the mood. Unfortunately, his mother rings later that morning and says William has a slight temperature, so Sarah insists they go home immediately. Still, his organic bacon bap was nice. n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 43

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON

This handsome country house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career gaining Michelin stars. There are 21 glamorous guest rooms that take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary, as well as six shepherd’s huts at the foot of the vineyard looking up through the vines to the house. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its wildlife.

The birds of the estuary are featured in the staircase wallpaper, and the bedrooms, each decorated with a watercolour of their avian namesake, match the feathered colour schemes. One of the main reasons to come is for Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food with a Michelin star and 5 AA Rosettes.

There is a second casual dine restaurant; The Pool House Restaurant & Bar, too, with its outdoor heated swimming pool and tennis court. Located on the Exe Estuary and at the gateway to the Jurassic Coast, the 28 acres of grounds feature an 11-acre vineyard producing English sparkling wine and a collection of wines from barrel-aged chardonnay to Provençal-style rosé and more.

Doubles from £395 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk

THE NARE

VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, The Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated country house hotel. It’s a five-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Proprietor Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chauffeur service and the fine food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand.

Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who offers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.

Doubles from £396 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk 44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

As you approach this Grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly fulfilled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a bar with a woodfired oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge, raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two Potting Sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide-open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other PIGs, this is a total joy of a hotel.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – AT HARLYN BAY PADSTOW, CORNWALL

‘Which is your favourite PIG?’ I am often asked. That’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s this one in the litter that comes trotting to mind first.

The hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow on Corwall’s rugged north coast.

It’s another sure-fire hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild flowers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that is as pleasing in winter as it is in summer.

Though only opened four years ago, this PIG feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning Kitchen Garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from the 25 mile menu.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 45

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

A

s a hotel expert, it’s the simplest thing in the world to recommend luxury hotels to friends and family looking for that perfect weekend away. Budget hotels, too, are easily recommendable (in general: never ever stay in a Britannia hotel; choose Premier Inn over Travelodge; and if you prefer character, go for a pub with good rooms rather than a chain). But what happens when a friend says: ‘I can’t possibly afford it’ about the list of lovely luxury places you’ve given them, whether it’s Lime Wood in the South, mid-country Hambleton Hall, Grantley Hall in the North, Ballyfin in Ireland or the host of other similarly gorgeous but expensive addresses spread around the country?

In the past, I’ve blanched. It’s so easy when there’s a big budget, so tricky when there isn’t. My friends and relations still want somewhere romantic, somewhere characterful, somewhere cool, somewhere in a lovely location, but all at prices that can generally deliver one or perhaps two of those requirements, but rarely all three.

Now, though, the mid-price scene is blossoming. As we know, room rates across the board have increased substantially in the years since Brexit and the pandemic, mostly in response to the spiralling cost of energy, food and wages that hotels now have to cope with. Mid-price country hotels (I’m talking anywhere between £150 and £350 per night) are more expensive now than they were, for sure, but the best of them deliver much that you will find in their luxury counterparts, at far less cost to the guest.

The same goes for London hotels, where the advent of rooms costing an absolute minimum of £1,000 per night – without breakfast – has hardly been noticed by the mega rich and utterly amazed everyone else. But honestly, why pay £1,500 per night at Claridge’s if you can stay at the classy Rosewood for nearly half the price; or at the not-soBritish-any-more Connaught when you can save hundreds at the oh-sowonderfully British Goring?

Dan Brod and his business partner Charlie Luxton, who currently own four excellent West Country inns, including the superb Beckford Arms, are about to plunge into the mid-market hotel sector. Teffont House near Salisbury will be their first foray when it opens early in 2025. Why is this the right moment? ‘Guests are more savvy than they once were,’ Dan explains. ‘They are increasingly well-travelled and they expect higher standards across the board, and, with post-pandemic working from home, they have more leisure time mid-week. Crucially,

they seek genuine hospitality and authenticity in the places they stay.

That’s easier for mid-market hotels to provide than often faceless and increasingly overpriced luxury ones. In our hotel venture we are being careful (as we are with our pubs) to pay attention to the whole offering, from excellent beds to careful design and food that is approachable.

In the end, most people, except the polarised super rich, will look for value at whatever price point; it’s up to us to make them want to repeat the experience when they check out – without having broken the bank.’

We can’t wait for Teffont House to open; with their skill at making humble inns like The Beckford Arms and The Talbot Inn at Mells into desirable places to stay, however deep or shallow your pocket, it will surely attract customers who could afford five-star luxury but simply prefer the warmth and cosiness of a mellow village house and its lovely garden surrounded by an old topiary hedge.

It was, of course, the advent of The Pig hotels that first disrupted the mid-price hotel market.

The brainchild of Robin Hutson, they were, and still are, perfect examples of how affordable hotels can also be repositories of fun and glamour. Their spa offering says it all: ‘At Lime Wood,’ Robin told me about the luxury Hampshire hotel he also oversees, ‘we built a spa costing millions; at The Pigs a potting shed is our spa and goes down just as well.’

If The Pigs galvanised the mid-market and gave the chance to middle income earners to enjoy somewhere memorable to stay for a relaxing break, other hotels have followed in their wake. Take Middleton Lodge, near Richmond in Yorkshire. It has everything you could wish for in a luxury hotel, including a fabulous spa and a sensational walled garden, and yet the lead-in rates start at £230 per night. Or head for the New Forest and the Montagu Arms, where you can stay for under £200 a night and whose fabulous new deluxe suites and studios cost just over £300. As for treatments, guests have use of the excellent spa at nearby sister hotel Careys Manor. In Wales, you can choose between the luxurious Grove of Narberth or its less expensive but no less rewarding Penmaenuchaf in Snowdonia, a true ‘retreat for the soul’.

I could go on. You’ll find plenty of examples of mid-price hotels in these pages: ones that have upped every aspect of their game, offering blissful comfort in their bedrooms and superb food in their dining rooms, plus character, warmth and kindness, and critically, for my friends and relations and perhaps for you too, affordable prices. n

MEET

me in the MIDDLE

PHOTOS: © TIM GREEN

It’s the mid-priced hotel’s time to shine, says FIONA DUNCAN, and there’s never been a better time to find affordable luxury – as long as you know where to look

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PHOTOS: © TIM GREEN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The delicious food at Middleton Lodge; The Beckford Arms’ charming exterior; a cosy, welcoming room at Penmaenuchaf; the Grove of Narberth in beautiful Pembrokeshire; The Pig-at Bridge Place, which has a 25-mile menu, with many ingredients sourced from its garden

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL

Situated on Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula with breathtaking views across the Atlantic, Polurrian on the Lizard is a place where vintage glamour meets coastal-contemporary.

Retaining an air of elegance, this spectacular clifftop hangout is every bit as welcoming now as it was when it first opened as a fashionable railway hotel in the 1890s.

The property sits within attractive lawned gardens complete with a winding path leading down to its own beach, secluded Polurrian Cove below. The restaurant specialises in Mediterranean-inspired dishes using the finest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas are made in the wood-fired Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic ocean views. With direct access to the South West Coast Path, a cliff-top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 12 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the great outdoors. For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes.

Doubles from £129, B&B +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charles and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay (see also The Felin Fach Griffin and The Gurnard’s Head on p153 & 38), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. The hotel’s 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains (the best come with knockout balcony views). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning.

Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Outside, The Crab Shack, offers casual all-day dining (think crab claws, croissants and sandwiches). Dining there, peering through palm trees and agapanthus, or reclining on the sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place.

Doubles from £197.50; from £285, inc dinner, B&B +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

THE SCARLET

NEWQUAY, CORNWALL

Overlooking the sweeping, romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco-hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At the heart of The Scarlet is the womblike Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation.

There’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one, plus two clifftop hot tubs and a sauna overlooking the ocean.

Bedrooms come in clusters on several levels, but they’re all soothing, with deep coastal colours, funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds, and sea and sunset views.

As for the delicious food, head chef Jack Clayton has a passion for fusing flavours, foraging and sustainability. The result is exceptional dishes, using everything from fresh samphire from the local beaches to herbs from the coastal path below the gardens.

There’s also an impressive collection of sustainable, slow-aged wines. An adult-only sanctuary, The Scarlet has an eco-friendly outlook, with a feeling of soothing, sybaritic luxury. The ultimate escape.

Doubles from £235, B&B +44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to your meal. Alternatively, you can eat at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which offers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and Kate Stein, and set in charming buildings around Padstow. There are stunning rooms above The Seafood Restaurant, while the simplest can be found above the café and the most luxurious in St Edmunds House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, you’ll find four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, six warm shepherd’s huts offer beautiful countryside accommodation.

Doubles from £183 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 49

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

STAR CASTLE HOTEL ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY

Fashioned from a perfect, star-shaped, 16th-century castle on a headland above Hugh Town, this historic hotel is a stellar find, fit for royalty – in fact, it’s welcomed crowned heads from Charles II to our own King Charles. Stretching out behind are the modern Garden Rooms, perfect for families, plus an indoor pool and conservatory dining room, all set in lush grounds. Once the most secure defence post in the British Isles, the castle now has the charm and intimacy of a Cotswold cottage. There’s a cosy bar (formerly the dungeon), first-floor sitting room and stone-walled dining room, with eight charming bedrooms in the castle, plus three in former guardrooms. As for food, indulge in owner Robert Francis’s two passions, fishing and wine, by eating a steamed lobster that he’s caught himself and drinking a fabulous bottle of Pinot noir or Chardonnay from his HolyVale vineyard, where he lovingly tends 7,000 vines. At breakfast Robert’s son and co-owner, James, arranges guest outings along with the hotel’s boatman, Rafe. It’s a family affair, and a special one at that.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1720 422317; star-castle.co.uk

TREWORNAN MANOR WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts – genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014 they rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor, set in 25 acres of mature gardens, from a state of dilapidation.

They have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining fine architectural features while bringing the house into the 21st century.

The seven bedrooms have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperorsized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms (the largest also have freestanding baths).

The little things haven’t been forgotten either, with hot water bottles and robes upstairs and crackling fires, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar for help-yourself drinks downstairs. Homemade cakes are baked by Paul’s mother, while the large, airy sitting room is a real home from home. The location close to the Camel Estuary could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac and Paul Ainsworth in Padstow.

A great place to escape the kids.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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DEVON & CORNWALL

UNA ST IVES CORNWALL

Just outside St Ives in gorgeous, sandy Carbis Bay, the luxury resort of Una St Ives has a collection of wood-clad lodges and spacious, contemporary villas. Each comes with chic coastal inspired interiors, a cosy log burner for chilly evenings (lodges only), a wellequipped kitchen and a private garden or terrace with hot tub. When guests don’t feel like cooking, there’s the award-winning Una Kitchen. Led by head chef Glenn Gatland (previously at Hell Bay on the Isles of Scilly), it’s known for Mediterraneaninspired, wood-fired cooking. Stand-out dishes include Cornish sea bream with pea and lemon risotto, slow-cooked pork belly with Parmesan polenta and delicious handstretched pizzas. Opened in 2023, Una Lido is a relaxed and family-friendly space in which to spend your days. You’ll find the best of the lido lifestyle: laid-back tunes, snazzy poolside cocktails and street foodinspired dining. And, of course, there’s the lido itself: a 20m heated outdoor pool, where you can swim, soak and unwind. And don’t forget the spa, with its sauna, steam room and pampering Elemis treatments.

From £375, for three nights +44 (0)1736 257000; unastives.co.uk

WATERSMEET HOTEL WOOLACOMBE, DEVON

The proud recipient of Condé Nast Johansens’ hugely prestigious Best Waterside Hotel for UK and Ireland 2024 award, Watersmeet boasts one of the most stunning locations in North Devon, offering dramatic views of the rolling surf and beyond towards Hartland Point, Baggy Point and Lundy Island.

Overlooking Combesgate Beach, the property has its own private steps down to this sandy cove, which is perfect for bodyboarding and rock-pooling, and rarely gets crowded, even in peak season. The 28 individually decorated bedrooms and suites offer comfort and luxury to complement the extraordinary vistas. At the heart of Watersmeet is a beautiful terrace spanning two levels, the perfect spot for lunch or afternoon tea in the sunshine, or a candle-lit dinner in the two AA Rosette Rocks Restaurant, serving meticulously crafted dishes featuring local ingredients from the land and sea. Guests can further enjoy a treatment in the fabulous on-site spa or take a dip in the indoor or outdoor pools. New for the 2024 season is a multi-purpose area on the lawn for informal and formal alfresco dining and smaller wedding ceremonies and private parties.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1271 870 333; info@watersmeethotel.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 51

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

Mists of Avalon, Glastonbury Tor, Somerset, England by Adam Burton. Landscape Photographer of the Year, Bird’s Eye View. LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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THE WEST COUNTRY

Head west for bucolic bliss and sun-kissed coves, as well as cutting-edge cities to explore and a burgeoning food scene to sample

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, the welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room, conservatory or sitting room, with its crackling log fire, comfy antique chairs and tables piled with books. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar, washed down with its own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners as well as peerless breakfasts. You sleep well, too: there are eight lovely bedrooms in the inn and two luxurious lodges (‘Spendens’) in the rolling parkland – plus you can now bed down in the magnificent Grade I-listed Fonthill Arch, at the entrance to the estate. Co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees (Beckford Group have three other country pubs with rooms nearby), have thought of everything, from deeply comfortable beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws and all-natural, locally made Bramley products in the bathrooms.

There are now spa treatments also, with Bramley’s new skincare range. The delightful garden frames views of romantic Fonthill.

Doubles from £105 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com

BISHOPSTROW HOTEL & SPA WARMINSTER, WILTSHIRE

Original period features and contemporary design combine at this honey-hued Georgian hotel set on a 30-acre estate near Warminster.

Among the vast grounds is an orchard, a no-dig kitchen garden which provides The Garden Grill restaurant with much of its produce (the menu is split into soil, sea, land, and fire sections), and an 18th-century walled garden with a summerhouse. The River Wylye runs alongside too, perfect for trout fishing and spotting elusive kingfishers.

Rooms come with sweeping countryside views, specially commissioned artworks, and splashes of bold colour (in striped wallpaper say, or a mustard bedhead); some also have a hot tub on the terrace. Book a treatment in the spa before a dip in the heated indoor or outdoor pool, or a steam and sauna session.

Staff can arrange all kinds of on-site activities, from a garden tour to gin tasting and clay pigeon shooting, while blockbuster attractions such as Longleat, Stourhead and Stonehenge are all within an hour’s drive. For special occasion private dining (up to eight guests), a three-course supper in a glass dome under the stars, is a magical experience.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1985 804680; bishopstrowhotel.com 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE GEORGE INN

NORTON ST PHILIP, SOMERSET

One of Britain’s oldest taverns, this historic 14th-century Grade I-listed Tudor inn is set in the peaceful village of Norton St Philip, midway between Frome and Bath. It has recently had a full revamp and now combines original features – beamed ceilings, woodpanelled walls, stone fireplaces – with more contemporary touches. The 13 newly decorated rooms are split between the main building and The Plaine; some come with traditional fourposters and wood-carved beds. On sunny days, make a beeline for the beer garden, which has views of the village and church. The inn is owned by the Butcombe Brewing Company (it’s worth checking out the Butcombe loyalty club for discounts and offers) so expect a good selection of craft beer, real ale and cider. Chef Aimie Harley has just been voted Pub Chef of the Year and together with the team, serves up an elevated take on hearty pub classics: Butcombe Gold beer battered haddock, burgers with maple and bacon relish, shoulder of Ston Easton lamb with devilled kidneys (there is a children’s menu, and Sunday roasts too). A brilliant base for walkers and anyone wanting to explore Somerset.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1373 834224; georgeinnnsp.co.uk

HOMEWOOD HOTEL & SPA NEAR BATH, SOMERSET

Eclectic, luxurious and slightly eccentric, this grand Georgian country house is surrounded by 20 acres of magnificent gardens. It stands above the village of Freshford, with its picturesque viaduct and a train line that runs to both Bradford-on-Avon and Bath, just 15 minutes away. Harnessing the spirit of the Roman’s love of a good spa, Homewood (the sister hotel to Bishopstrow in Wiltshire, p54) has created a pampering haven for guests, offering treatments, an indoor hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam room as well as a justadded outdoor vitality pool. The 21 main house rooms have oodles of character and great views across the Avon Valley. Each is quirky, colourful and individual – think plush velvet headboards, statement artworks and twinkling chandeliers. Plus, there are another ten rooms and suites in the Mallingford Mews, some with private terraces and hot tubs, which make the most of the countryside views. Olio Restaurant combines Somerset ingredients and vegetables from its own no-dig kitchen garden with Mediterranean inspiration. Choose from eating indoors, on the outdoor terrace or in one of the dining domes (for up to eight guests).

Doubles from £295, B&B +44 (0)1225 580439; homewoodbath.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 55

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

theLIST

Eight Luxury Treehouse Stays TESSA DUNTHORNE picsk the places offering leafy luxury

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Wildhive Callow Hall Treehouses PEAK DISTRICT

There’s no denying the easy ooze of luxury at Wildhive Callow Hall. There’s a choice of a few treehouses here, but the boutique hives are particularly special – they’re the nostalgic treehouse from your childhood back garden.

These one-bedroomed elevated encampments are particularly perfect for couples seeking some alone time, or solo adventurers intent on a digital detox and personal retreat. From £214, wildhive.uk

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Silva Treehouse, Canopy & Stars CUMBRIA

A multistoried woodland retreat towering at canopy height, Silva has two double bedrooms and an incredible wooden slide and dedicated kids’ den. For the grown-ups, you’ll be as enamoured with the pizza oven, wood-fired hot tub and impressive views; spot roe deer, kestrels and brown hares in the Cumbrian countryside here. From £395, canopyandstars.co.uk

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The Tree Tent SOMERSET

Floating metres above the ground, this green spherical tent is suspended between two trees. It’s an adventurous option for those with an off-grid itch to scratch – with no wifi and fully run on solar power, you’ll sleep the night immersed in the sounds of nature, no phone pings to distract. This said, you do still benefit from a fully equipped kitchen and a hot-water outdoor shower. From £145, airbnb.co.uk

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TreeDwellers OXFORDSHIRE

Newly opened in March, TreeDwellers has opened its first Cotswolds location.

The seven stays (think architectural curvy affairs built from timber and glass) are nestled within 1,700 acres of ancient woodland, so you can properly unplug during your escape. But if you’re craving a bit of civilisation, TreeDwellers is only a stone’s throw from Daylesford and Diddly Squat. From £210, treedwellers.com

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Treehouses at Leckie SCOTLAND

These Scottish treehouses are smart little numbers. They’re not so much rustic as pared back, and you won’t be left wanting for modern amenities (underfloor heating, Weber BBQ , induction hob, etc). Mod cons aside, they’re built into the canopies of oaks and sycamore trees overlooking the Gargunnock Hills in Stirlingshire, and offer a blissful window into undisturbed Scottish wilderness. From £245, leckietreehouses.co.uk

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The Yews at Chewton Glen NEW FOREST

This country house hotel is set in the heart of the New Forest and has a fabulous offer for those seeking the best of a hotel stay with the charm of a treehouse retreat. Chewton Glen’s treehouses are set on its 130-acre estate, meaning you can meander up to the hotel for a spa day or indulgent meal at the Dining Room, but still enjoy a night’s sleep in the heart of the forest. The Yews are the gem of the lot, sleeping 12 at a dizzying height (suspended 35ft above ground). But don’t worry, luxury is still very much the order of the day here. Enjoy a personal chef during your stay, for example, or work with the hotel for a bespoke package unique to your visit. From £1,365 per night, iconicluxuryhotels.com

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Verte by Unique Homestays DEVON

Verte’s bright floor-to-ceiling windows enjoy treetop views of the incredible Chevithorne Barton estate. Set among the glades, it offers a RIBA-awarded wood-clad stay that consciously uncouples a treehouse from its rustic roots. Think ultramodern and open plan, with plush linen sofas set around its centrepiece circular fireplace. It’s a stone’s throw from Exmoor National Park if the wildflower, magnolia surrounded setting isn’t enough nature for you – expect walks trailing along the dramatic North Devon coastline. From £2,595, uniquehomestays.com

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Living Room Treehouses WALES

To access Living Room Treehouses, you’ll need to ascend a spiralling, wood-woven staircase and walk across a suspended footbridge. The charm of this space is that they’re genuinely built into the trees – not set on stilts – and made of consciously harvested wood. They have the appearance of being Hobbit holes – albeit suspended 30ft above the ground.

Plus, they enjoy a central wood burner to warm up cold hands during autumnal or early spring stays.

From £429, campsites.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary Walled Garden Restaurant with its open kitchen for a bit of culinary drama. Then there’s the spa, including a sleek indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms and a social lounge with a skincare mixology bar. The impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards, from pony mad to down with dressage. For your own slice of the estate, book the chic cottages, ranging from one to four bedrooms, individually designed to give you the ultimate five-star stay. Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, bicycles, and a football pitch, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations.

Doubles from £384, cottages from £1,900 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk

NUMBER ONE BRUTON

PHOTOS: © ADAM LYNK

BRUTON, SOMERSET

Set in the thriving market town of Bruton, this Georgian townhouse turned hotel has 12 rooms set around a pretty courtyard (designed

by Penelope Hobhouse). Somerset’s craft heritage is evident throughout: stay in the main house, with its rich colour palette and staircase that winds up to the eaves, in the cottages it’s all warm stone floors and Morris textiles; or the forge, which combines ancient beams and wooden cladding with cosy rugs and ticking stripes. There is a welcome package of local, edible treats including Westcombe cheddar, cider (blended for Number One by The Newt) and shortbread. The small-batch organic toiletries in the bathroom are made in-house. Continental-style buffet breakfast – freshly baked pastries, soft boiled eggs, cheese from Sir Cameron Mackintosh’s estate, juice from Dowding’s orchard – is served in the old ironmonger’s shop on the ground floor.

Currently, at lunch and supper, it becomes Osip, the Michelin-starred restaurant run

by Merlin Labron Johnson, but this will change to a new food offering in the summer to coincide with five extra rooms opening in the building next door.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1749 813030; numberonebruton.com 58 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views?

You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep-flecked green fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a much-loved seaside sibling in the droves of PIG hotels, and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with THE PIG’s signature 25 mile menu) and walled Kitchen Garden, there are quirkily different bedrooms to choose from, including two charming shepherd’s huts. Each has a bedroom and bathroom hut and a lounge hut with a sun deck, boasting the best views in the house.

There’s also a buzzy outdoor bar with a wood-fired oven for sourdough pizzas, as well as a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut on the lawn overlooking the cliffs – perfect for gatherings of up to 12.

A thrilling, wildly popular hotel.

Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – NEAR BATH

PHOTOS: © ADAM LYNK

PENSFORD, SOMERSET

This may be just one of several rural-themed PIG hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Home Grown Hotels group: a proper, grown-up hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle. As at all THE PIGs (except for the city-centred PIG-in-the-wall), the Kitchen Garden is the heartbeat of the hotel, with the gardeners and chefs working hand-inhand to create plates brimming with seasonal flavours. What they can’t grow on-site is sourced from the best local farmers, fishermen and foragers, the foundation of their signature 25-mile menu. And keep an eye out for dishes flavoured with honey from THE PIG’s very own hives – you can even pick up a jar to take home with you.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 59

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE PRIORY HOTEL WAREHAM, DORSET

The setting of this former monastery and Grade II-listed country house hotel, surrounded by four acres of English cottage gardens, on the bank of the River Frome, is sublime. The history of the building, which dates to 809, is evident in each of the 17 charming rooms, many of which have original wooden beams (some have views of the Purbeck Hills, others overlook the gardens or inner courtyard). Choose between staying in the main house or the all-suite Boat House right by the water’s edge, with its vaulted ceilings, antiques and four-poster beds. Start the evening with an aperitif in the Drawing Room, the Cloisters Bar or on the terrace, before sitting down to try head chef Stephan Guinebault’s three-course dinner menu in the Garden Room restaurant (you can also book in for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday). The peaceful gardens are ideal for drinking a morning coffee while reading the newspapers or afternoon tea, after a day exploring the Dorset coastline.

The hotel is in the market town of Wareham, with gorgeous Studland Bay and Lulworth Cove both a short drive away.

Doubles from £220, room only +44(0) 1929 551666; theprioryhotel.co.uk

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH, SOMERSET

Nestled in the heart of historic Bath, The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa epitomises luxury and sophistication. Set within John Wood the Younger’s iconic Georgian terrace, this five-star establishment offers impeccable service and meticulous attention to detail. The hotel’s 45 rooms and suites boast breathtaking views of either the hotel’s herbaceous borders or the crescent’s majestic lawn. Indulge at Montagu’s Mews, a stylishly snug and relaxed restaurant offering a selection of menus, carefully curated by head check Martin Blake; from classic afternoon tea to à la carte options and a tempting gastronomic tasting menu, there’s something to suit every palate and occasion. The glamorous cocktail bar also serves a selection of expertly crafted cocktails, and the heated outdoor terrace, overlooking the one acre of glorious gardens, is an enchanting experience. Finally, unwind at The Spa & Bath House; complete with relaxation pool, sauna and steam room, and a luxury TempleSpa treatment menu – that also offers suitable treatments for guests suffering from cancer – you are sure to leave feeling rejuvenated.

Doubles from £405 B&B +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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Photo by Pixabay

PHOTO: PEXELS

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT PHOTO: PEXELS

This slice of Britain is where sea and sky meet; where the fringes of ancient forest brush against white sandy shores. It’s wild and wonderful, and rich in unforgettable landscapes

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

CAREYS MANOR HOTEL & SENSPA BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation – it’ll be just the ticket. The spa hotel occupies a striking redbrick Victorian manor in neat gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst and is the sister hotel of The Montagu Arms (see page 71). The reception room has oak-panelled walls and an open fire to welcome you in.

Seventy-seven large, comfortable bedrooms combine modern amenities with traditional country house style. Some have four-poster beds and others with their own patio – ideal for soaking up the sun alongside your morning coffee. But what really makes Careys Manor stand out is its award-winning SenSpa, where you will be pampered with a mind-boggling range of treatments, from a traditional Thai massage to a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, refined yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic Thai food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com

CHEWTON GLEN

NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE

Chewton Glen is a true English original: a five-star Relais & Chateaux hotel and spa, situated on the edge of the ancient New Forest and a short walk from the beach in Hampshire. Choose from a variety of quintessentially English guestrooms and luxurious suites or spend the night among the trees, immersed in nature, in your very own secluded Treehouse Suite on stilts (they even come with al fresco hot tubs). Savour delectable cuisine (twice-baked cheese soufflé say, or Wiltshire venison loin) and afternoon tea in The Dining Room, or enjoy a relaxed meal at The Kitchen, an exciting restaurant overseen by chef James Martin. Want to improve your culinary skills? There’s also a cookery school offering lessons from the chef himself. Within the 130 acres of grounds, you can enjoy all kinds of family-friendly activities: there’s a nine-hole golf course, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Or simply unwind in the fabulous indoor and outdoor pools and the indulgent, award-winning spa – there’s something to satisfy everyone. Service is effortless too. Without doubt, this is one of the country’s finest hotels.

Doubles from £405 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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HAMPSHIRE & ISLE OF WIGHT

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley.

When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands off our public bar!’ He says, ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me!’ For a simple room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right. For some of the best food in the New Forest – it has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms – in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. As you’d expect, breakfast is spot on.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE

It’s hard to believe you’re only an hour from London here. Set amid 500 acres of the Dogmersfield Park Estate, you can watch the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the coolly sophisticated bedrooms (including a beautiful Martin Brudnizki-designed Royal Suite with a private terrace). It’s easy to lose yourself in the grounds, playing croquet, fishing or cycling, while children can be kept busy at the Kids’ Playground or the hotel’s family adventure pool, Sharkie’s Reef. Located in the Manor House’s original 18th-century stable block, the large, light-filled spa, 20m adult pool and outdoor vitality pool all feel far removed from the modern-day stresses of everyday life. Service is exemplary, and the food is everything you would expect from Four Seasons. Wild Carrot makes the perfect setting for memorable seasonal meals while Café Sante serves a nutrition-focused, southeast Asian menu. For a quintessentially British afternoon tea, head for the Drawing Room. Sunday lunch is a highlight, featuring entirely local produce from the heart of Hampshire. Go on, treat yourself.

Doubles from £595 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com/hampshire COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 65

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE GROSVENOR

STOCKBRIDGE, HAMPSHIRE

This historic gem, The Grosvenor, sits proudly at the heart of Stockbridge, the smallest town in England, and home to the River Test. The hotel has been lovingly restored to its former glory by local resident Simon Henderson and his wife Teresa. It’s a delightful, relaxing hotel, where you can celebrate and unwind.

There are 34 beautiful bedrooms, which mix antiques with contemporary pieces.

Book the sumptuous Hayloft suite with its own sitting and dining area and Cook’s Corner. Or there’s one of the stunninglydesigned Garden Rooms, opening onto the Walled Garden. There’s also the lovely threebedroom Tap Cottage. Dogs are welcome too. Headed up by chef Oli Abbott, there are three fantastic eateries, from the elegant Market Room Restaurant to the River Room for private dining and the fabulous new 1822 Bar. The beautiful Terrace is ideal for enjoying a morning coffee in the sunshine or for dining al fresco. The Grosvenor offers an abundance of sporting pursuits to boot, including fly fishing (ask the hotel for one of their delicious hampers) and shooting.

What could be better?

From £180 B&B +44 (0)1264 810606; thegrosvenorstockbridge.com

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, The Hambrough benefits from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. This boutique island hotel has seven individually designed rooms, all are fresh, light and airy, some with balconies looking across the English Channel. If you are after something more private, there is also a charming cottage for four and a lovely town house, which sleeps ten, with original features but modern amenities. This summer sees two more private houses just a couple of seconds away being added to the portfolio, each sleeping up to six people. A visit to The Hambrough Restaurant is a must, where Chef Curtis Elphick’s light classical style menus with a modern twist are attracting a faithful local following, and the Cocktail Bar with those stunning sea views is the perfect stop-off to chill after an exhausting day on the beach. The friendly staff add to its charm without compromising on service.

On the southern tip of the Isle of Wight and sheltered by St. Boniface Down to the north, this is one of the sunniest spots in the UK and perfect for a seaside escape.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com 66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

HAMPSHIRE & ISLE OF WIGHT

HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE

Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim wild, picnic in the woods, and wander around the hotel’s biodynamic market garden and organic farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak floors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heckfield Place, once home to Charles Shaw-Lefevre, Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic (fine 20th-century English pictures from the owner’s private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining (The Assembly is a curated programme of films and events).

There’s also The Bothy by Wildsmith, the 17,000 sq/ft home of wellbeing, and the delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Green Michelin-starred Marle and open-fired Hearth restaurants, where you can taste their estate-grown ingredients. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original room types.

Doubles from £600 +44 (0)118 932 6868; heckfieldplace.com

THE JACK RUSSELL INN FACCOMBE, ANDOVER

Sitting at the heart of the beautiful Faccombe Estate, this classic country pub ticks all the boxes: great views, attractive decoration, friendly staff and excellent, seasonal, locally sourced food served in the airy dining room. Head chef Andy Watts is the man behind the menu, which uses estate produce, from seasonal game to orchard fruits – all accompanied by the best sustainable wines from around the world. There’s an outdoor terrace with a log fire and sheepskin throws for early evening drinks or after-dinner cocktails.

There are 11 bedrooms to choose from and each is named after a different dog breed.

Indeed, dogs are positively welcomed with dog beds and bowls provided. Little luxuries such as espresso machines and a gastronomic breakfast menu raise the bar further. Popular all year round, the Newbury races, beautiful market towns of Hungerford and Marlborough and some prestigious vineyards are not far away. The wonderful surrounding countryside is great for walking. Eco-conscious guests will love the estate’s borehole, wind turbine and wood pellet-burning biomass boiler providing heat to the pub, lodge and local community.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1264 737315; thejackrussellinn.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 67

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theLIST

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Five UK Cultural Spots OLIVIA EMILY uncovers the regional galleries and museums worth stopping off for

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LIVERPOOL

Founded by William Hesketh Lever and dedicated to his wife, this is home to his collection of 20,000 works of art, from Chinese ceramics to ancient Greek vases, Pre-Raphaelite paintings to the world’s largest collection of Wedgwood jasperware. liverpoolmuseums.org.uk

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CAMBRIDGE

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DUBLIN

In Newman House in the heart of Dublin, delve into Ireland’s rich literary history through immersive exhibitions, audio displays and a permanent James Joyce collection, including ‘Copy No. 1’ of Ulysses. moli.ie

The Fitzwilliam Museum

Bundled inside the grand neoclassical Fitzwilliam Museum are more than 500,000 objects and artworks, spanning artistic gems from the likes of Rembrandt and Van Gogh to treasures from antiquities. Time your visit with

Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI)

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one of its world-renowned exhibitions – in 2024 centring on Botticelli, the Paris Olympics and Glenn Ligon. fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk

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5

St Fagans National Museum of History CARDIFF

Wander through a series of buildings frozen in time, including farmhouses, cottages, a medieval church, a Victorian school, and a chapel – all the while admiring the lush surrounding formal gardens. museum.wales

V&A Dundee DUNDEE

With a striking design by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, inspired by Scottish cliff edges, V&A Dundee celebrated its fifth birthday in 2023. Perched on the River Tay waterfront, a rotation of exhibitions delve into Scottish and global design, from tartan to kimonos, plastic to video games. vam.ac.uk

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PHOTOS: © PETE CARR; © DAVID VALINSKY; © HUFTON CROW

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Lady Lever Art Gallery

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theWEEKENDER Fashion and bridal designer Savannah Miller draws us her perfect weekend

Favourite place to escape at the weekend?

Foston’s Ash (near Stroud). It’s a gorgeous pub a nice 45 minutes’ walk from home and run by a good friend of mine. The food and atmosphere are exceptional.

The kind of place you could easily lose yourself for a heavenly long lunch.

Who are you spending this weekend with, and what will you be doing with them? My family. This

weekend, for example, we are planning on going for a bike ride and having a picnic in the Forest of Dean to wave goodbye to the Easter holidays.

How do you like your eggs? À la Jim Whewell.

My husband is the king of breakfast and makes a killer pimped avocado smash and roasted tomatoes with poached eggs.

And how do you take your coffee? Thick and strong like black soup.

Are you going out on your perfect Saturday night?

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Savannah Miller; Vivere Jade blazer, £250; The Menopause Brain by Dr Lisa Mosconi; her weekend breakfast of choice

We would be going to another favourite local pub, The Woolpack Inn, for a pint of cider with friends.

What’s your cocktail order? Negroni, always.

And if you’re staying in? To be honest, staying in is my absolute favourite thing to do, snuggled up with my family by the fire watching a movie.

What’s your perfect weekend outfit? It really depends on where I am going but I am never far from a trusty blazer from my womenswear brand, Vivere.

No matter what I throw it over, it pulls a look together to make me feel well dressed and sharp.

If you go for a walk, where would you go? Out of my back door to the fields surrounding our home where the foxes from the recent David Attenborough doc were filmed. It’s a fairy-tale paradise here.

Will you be doing any exercise? I try to do yoga and pilates every other day but my willpower isn’t great at the moment. I will definitely walk every day with my trusty side kick Stan the cockerpoo.

Is there anything else that would make a perfect weekend for you? Someone else doing the cooking! And my family in its

entirety...

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

DOWN TIME WHAT ARE YOU READING? The Menopause Brain by Dr Lisa Mosconi. I am definitely hurtling fast towards it and this book, underpinned by science, is bringing me real solace. AND WATCHING? I have just started watching Little Fires Everywhere because I loved the book.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

LIME WOOD

LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this sumptuous New Forest hideaway. Oak doors are thick, paint finishes fresh and floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent, individually decorated bedroom (there are 33, in the main house and throughout the grounds). In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, have bespoke treatments from brands such as Bamford and Ground Wellbeing, take in forest views from the sauna and eat nourishing food in Raw & Cured. Inspired by nature and their forest surroundings ‘Re-root at Lime Wood’, is a series of retreats guided by the rhythms of the seasons that bring guests back to their roots. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder which serves Italian-influenced dishes in gorgeous, laid-back surroundings. The glamour is there, but the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the laid-back luxury mood.

Doubles from £495 +44 (0)23 8028 7177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

In 2014, hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America, an openplan restaurant and bar, and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump, say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining on a warm summer’s evening.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com 70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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HAMPSHIRE & ISLE OF WIGHT

THE MONTAGU ARMS BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE

Combining all the attributes of a traditional country house hotel – roaring log fires, oak panelling, pretty gardens and comfortable bedrooms – with a picturesque village setting, The Montagu Arms makes an ideal base.

Browse Beaulieu’s high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the New Forest National Park. Back in the hotel you’ll find a dark oak hall that contrasts with the bright, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory and flowerfilled gardens. There are 33 bedrooms that stay true to the hotel’s heritage while enjoying contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. In the elegant, award-winning Terrace restaurant, a treat is in store. Tuck into modern, refined cuisine, which uses the best of the New Forest and the hotel’s own produce to create dishes that take local provenance seriously. Alternatively, there’s Monty’s, the hotel’s country pub, just next door, which offers delicious heritage cooking and muchloved English classics. Both children and dogs are welcome, making it a great choice for families looking to escape the busy city for a wholesome New Forest adventure.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

THE PIG

BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast Kitchen Gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of THE PIG in the New Forest. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25 mile radius.

This local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of THE PIG and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011. Here at Brockenhurst, the hotel, which is in its 13th year, is located in a handsome Georgian shooting lodge that stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on offer. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard.

Calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic aesthetic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden Potting Shed treatment room. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 71

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE PIG – IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If THE PIG in the New Forest is the country house, then this is its town cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton.

Charmingly embraced by the city’s medieval defensive walls, it’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train from London. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, and boilyour-own eggs, and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen-cum-parlour. For lunch, graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as the reception, too. Later you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, head back to The Wall for a delicious dinner of freshly prepared salads, hearty plates (such as the pie of the day) and sweet treats, where you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com

RHINEFIELD HOUSE HOTEL BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Rhinefield House Hotel, part of the Hand Picked Hotels collection, is a country house surrounded by 40 acres of stunning private grounds, known locally as the ‘Jewel in the Forest’. And for good reason. Hidden deep in the New Forest National Park, it seamlessly blends Tudor and Gothic architecture, with grandeur down to a fine art. The bejewelled Alhambra Room conjures up the majestic splendour of Granada’s palace, while the Armada Restaurant – an elegant picture of intricate wood panelling – serves classic British dishes with a contemporary twist. The Conservatory, another superb dining spot, celebrates local ingredients (order the braised New Forest lamb shank). Guests can stroll around the beautiful gardens with ornamental ponds, fountains and terraces, and gorgeous surrounding woodland. The hotel is proudly dog-friendly, too. There’s also the health suite – the ultimate woodland retreat – plus indoor and outdoor pools. The buzzy villages of Lyndhurst and Brockenhurst are nearby – after a day of exploring, the luxurious 50 bedrooms are the perfect place to relax, with marble bathrooms and far-reaching views. +44 (0)1642 706606 handpickedhotels.co.uk/rhinefieldhouse 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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HAMPSHIRE & ISLE OF WIGHT

STANWELL HOUSE LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

This beautiful Georgian property in the heart of Lymington in the New Forest is rejoicing in its new dawn, following a major renovation in 2022 by its new owners.

Today, thanks to local interior designer Jo-Jo Macnamara, there is a wide range of elegant Georgian-inspired bedrooms. Choose between the cosy Loft Rooms, the Terrace and Garden Rooms, tucked away at the rear of the hotel, the spacious House Rooms, and Luxury Rooms and Suites, with super kingsize beds. Whichever you go for, each is individually decorated with vintage touches, lovely printed fabric and pops of colour.

Spot unique Georgian touches, such as original windows or exposed fireplaces.

Food has been carefully considered, too.

The Samphire, a laidback stylish bistro, serves the very best from land and sea.

The glass-roofed Orangery offers a superb afternoon tea and you will never want to leave the Salt Bar, a local favourite. The magic of the New Forest is right on your doorstep and the Lymington Sea Wall is great for a seaside stroll. You can even do a day trip to the Isle of Wight.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1590 677123; stanwellhouse.com

THE WELLINGTON ARMS BAUGHURST, HAMPSHIRE

There’s something pretty special about The Welly. Thought to have originated as the Duke of Wellington’s hunting lodge on the edge of his Stratfield Saye estate, it’s now a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Simon Page (front of house) and Jason King (award-winning chef). Set in countryside on the Hampshire/ Berkshire border, it has a prolific kitchen garden and a field where hens, bees, sheep, geese and pigs are kept. The dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. Jason uses homegrown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, country-style dishes. There are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub; there are two striking guest rooms tucked away in a converted 17th century oak-framed, brick and timber hay store; and the Cart House is a green oak barn. They have all the extras, from rain showers with Aesop products to Nespresso coffee machines and excellent beds dressed in top quality linen.

Breakfast is a feast, with eggs straight from their hens and divine tea cosies knitted by Simon’s mum. Who could ask for more?

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1189 820110; thewellingtonarms.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 73

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

Apocalypse Now, Littlehampton, West Sussex, England, by Jamie Fielding.

Landscape Photographer of the Year, Coastal View, 2023.

LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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THE HOME COUNTIES

From vineyards to funfairs, and chalk cliffs to cathedrals, these six unique counties are bursting with unforgettable things to see, do, eat and drink

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

ARTIST RESIDENCE OXFORDSHIRE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners, Justin and Charlie Salisbury. This energetic couple, complete with a new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. There are now 15 rooms in total, split between the main farmhouse, stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. The restaurant features art by The Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow, while the kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food (think classic fish and chips, and rump steak) in a fun and friendly setting. There’s also a sun-trap terrace garden for warm days. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance, Pimlico, Bristol or Brighton, then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your next country hideaway.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk

BAILIFFSCOURT

CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A short stroll from secluded Climping Beach (about halfway between Arundel and Chichester), Bailiffscourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms of all styles, spread throughout numerous charming houses and cottages in parkland.

The newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. The more traditional – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The charming courtyard and rose garden are the ideal spots for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine. The name Bailiffscourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13th century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk 76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

THE HOME COUNTIES

BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

Beaverbrook is a magnificent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played, and it’s fabulous.

The former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and visitors like Elizabeth Taylor and Winston Churchill. There’s Japanese cuisine in The Dining Room, stunning garden views, 56 beautiful bedrooms, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse and kids’ club. The separate brick and flint Garden House, with interiors

by Nicola Harding, offers a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant and 11 bedrooms. The Coach House Suites are perfect for families, as is The Village, a cluster of just-opened suites on the site of the original workers’ cottages with their own Mrs Beeton’s Restaurant. Don’t miss the Coach House Health Club & Spa, adorned with stained glass by artist Brian Clarke, which offers an array of transformative wellness experiences. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.

Doubles from £505 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk

THE CAT INN

WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook fireplace, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of Britain’s greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously General Manager at nearby Gravetye Manor, mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food from chef Suphi Ergin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too – perhaps dark chocolate tart or apple, pear and blackberry nut crumble. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many beautiful gardens and vineyards nearby.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 77

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Built for the second Duke of Buckingham’s mistress in 1666, Cliveden House is a renowned English country estate famed as a five-star setting for lavish entertaining and scandal. Standing in 376 acres of magnificent gardens and parkland (now owned by the National Trust), the hotel has 47 spacious rooms and suites in the elegant main mansion. Elsewhere, there’s Spring Cottage, a summerhouse on the banks of the River Thames, which offers guests the ultimate in luxurious privacy and escapism. The property has two outstanding restaurants: the opulent chandeliered Cliveden Dining Room, which is complemented by the relaxed informality of The Astor Grill. The afternoon tea, inspired by Cliveden’s riotous history, is unmissable too.

A luxurious spa, open to members and hotel guests, is the spot for relaxation; unwind by the indoor pool before wandering into the garden where you will find the Profumo pool – the last remaining listed outdoor pool in England.

Cliveden is imbued with a palpable sense of history, for this is a house that, for over 350 years, has been dedicated to the pursuit of pleasure, power and politics.

Doubles from £565 +44 (0)1628 668561; clivedenhouse.co.uk

GOODWOOD HOTEL

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PHOTOS: © MIKE CALDWELL

CHICHESTER, WEST SUSSEX

Stay here, and everything that Goodwood has to offer is at your fingertips. Most famous for its Qatar Goodwood Festival and motorsport festivals, the hugely impressive sporting estate has endless experiences, and guests of the hotel effectively become members of each one of them. Thus, the superb health club and spa is yours; also, elegant private members’ club, The Kennels; and the membership only championship Downs golf course. But there’s more: you can visit Goodwood House itself and have a guided tour, followed by afternoon tea in the Ballroom. Plus, there are 19 days of racing a year at the prettiest of racecourses; the Motor Circuit where you can take a spin; and the historic aerodrome where you can fly a Cessna. And the hotel? Sleek and sophisticated with characterful bedrooms and exceptional standards of cooking in the light and airy restaurants. These include the flagship farm-to-fork Farmer, Butcher, Chef where the menu revolves around the organic, estate-grown meat. The hotel is also home to Goodwood’s wellness retreats, which includes a Gut Health Programme plus a Menopause and Wim-Hof retreat.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1243 775537; goodwood.com/hotel

THE HOME COUNTIES

GRAVETYE MANOR

WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, when Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor and its famous gardens as a hotel. A classic of its kind, it’s now in the caring hands of Jeremy and Elizabeth Hosking, who have kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising it.

Today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty staff, the profusion of naturally arranged flowers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. Paul Skinner is the consummate general manager, while George Blogg’s Michelin-starred food, served in the stunning, glass-fronted dining room, is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the 35-acre gardens – which were originally created by visionary gardener, William Robinson, in 1885 and are now considered some of the most historically important in England – have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. They are quite wonderful and transform an aperitif on the terrace into an unforgettable treat.

Doubles from £385, B&B +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk

THE HARE & HOUNDS

PHOTOS: © MIKE CALDWELL

NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE

Nestled in the foothills of Speen in West Berkshire, the 17th-century pub The Hare & Hounds has redefined the modern day coaching inn as we know it today. The 30 individual bedrooms, some with gorgeous copper bath tubs, are housed in four stylish buildings (The Stables, The Paddocks, The Hunter’s Lodge and The Coach House).

Each, complete with racing themed fabric, is packed with all the charm and character of a traditional coaching inn yet brought bang up to date with a contemporary twist. Settle down beside a fire in the barn dining room or in the garden for traditional afternoon tea, or choose from the menu of farm-to-table cuisine and impressive list of cocktails, craft beers and hand-picked wines. A stone’s throw from Newbury Racecourse, it’s the type of place that suits everyone – be it for a fun-filled weekend, romantic escape or just passing through. Dogs are welcomed with open arms and the Sunday roast is not to be missed with the enticing offer of bottomless roasties and Yorkshire puddings.

Other nearby attractions include Highclere Castle, the Bombay Sapphire Distillery and The Watermill Theatre.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1635 521152; hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

theLIST Eight Scenic Walks

MARTHA DAVIES selects the most magnificent hiking routes throughout the UK

1

Glenfinnan Viaduct Trail SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

Scotland’s Glenfinnan Viaduct played host to the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films, and a walk along the Viaduct Trail is a great way to see this magnificent piece of architecture for yourself. You’ll also be treated to views of Loch Shiel and the surrounding hills.

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Mam Tor PEAK DISTRICT

While there are plenty of tough trails in the Peak District, a trek to the top of Mam Tor takes only two hours (and yields some truly spectacular views). Finish the three-mile climb and you’ll have reached the perfect spot from which to see the Edale Valley, the Derwent Moors and the heather-covered hills of Kinder Scout.

CORNWALL

Beginning at Kynance Cove in Mount’s Bay, this three-hour trail will take you through patches of wildflowers, outcrops of green-veined serpentine stone, and coves dotted with basking seals. Stop for a breather at the majestic Lizard Lighthouse or tuck into a picnic at Pen Olver before looping back towards Mount’s Bay.

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1

Goring Gap & The Thames Path OXFORDSHIRE

If you’re looking for a hiking trail not too far from London, hop on a train to the charming Oxfordshire town of Goring and you can amble along a particularly scenic stretch of the Thames Path. Head through the breathtaking Goring Gap – the narrowest part of the Thames Valley – and you’ll find yourself at one of Brunel’s last remaining red brick railway bridges.

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The Lizard Peninsula

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5

The Wye Valley WALES

If you don’t feel like tackling all 218 kilometres of the Wye Valley Walk, why not begin at Tintern Abbey, strolling through the ancient Wyndcliff Wood and pausing to gaze at the River Wye from the famous Eagle’s Nest viewpoint. This route covers roughly ten kilometres, leading you through the Grade I-listed landscape of Piercefield Park until you reach Chepstow Castle.

6

Dinefwr Park WALES

The historic Dinefwr estate encompasses a 12th-century fortress, a 17th-century manor house and 800 acres of rolling parkland, which you can explore via a special trail designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown after he visited in 1775.

Spanning just over two kilometres, the path offers wonderful views, as well as the chance to spot some fallow deer.

7

Ightham Mote KENT

Fancy exploring the Kentish countryside?

With the 14th-century manor house of Ightham Mote as your starting point (a handsome National Trust property), you can meander along Greensand Way to Knole Park, another fine country estate, before ending up back in the tranquil Ightham Mote gardens.

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Tarn Hows LAKE DISTRICT

Once ow ned by Beatrix Potter – and subsequently sold to the National Trust – Tarn Hows is a picture-perfect corner of the Lake District National Park. A circular walk around the verdant landscape will only take an hour, but you’ll want to stop regularly to enjoy the glorious views.

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HARTWELL HOUSE

VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you’d never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings.

The Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design

by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning rococo ceiling by Thomas Roberts of Oxford.

There’s also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall.

If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (p152) and Middlethorpe Hall (p145), the hospitality is natural and attentive, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand, and the food as delicious as you would expect. An afternoon tea is served daily in the magnificent drawing rooms, and the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com

THE HORSE & GROOM EAST ASHLING, WEST SUSSEX

Located in East Ashling, four miles west of Chichester, on the edge of the South Downs National Park, The Horse & Groom is very popular with walkers and those attending local highlights such as Qatar Goodwood Festival, Goodwood Revival, Chichester Festival Theatre or Pallant House Gallery.

This centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned public house was restored by local entrepreneur John Ayton and his wife, the jewellery designer Annoushka Ducas. There are ten cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams and a palette of soft, calming hues and original artwork from the owners’ collection. The Horse & Groom’s award-winning food is served in the dining room, which has a backdrop of mid 20th-century paintings, a handcrafted oak floor and an abundance of plants and fresh flowers. Guests can polish off dishes such as local Selsey crab or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings. The locals’ bar, with its stone floors, pine tables and welcoming fire, offers superb beers on tap, including Hophead, a golden pale ale from Dark Star brewers in Partridge Green.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub 82 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE HOME COUNTIES

LEEDS CASTLE MAIDSTONE, KENT

From glamping to holiday cottages, Leeds Castle has long offered visitors somewhere to sleep – but now four new secluded one-bedroom Lakeside Lodges have been added, too. Made from timber and homegrown larch, the carbon neutral structures look out onto the Great Lake: wake on crisp, frosty mornings to watch mist rising; use the binoculars to spot wildfowl gliding across the water; and end the day with a relaxing soak in the outdoor tub on the deck. Each lodge is named after an influential figure with links to the castle, including writers Dame Daphne du Maurier and Ian Fleming, who mentioned it in The Moonraker. Wildlife in the surrounding 500-acre gardens and parkland inspired the soft furnishings by local artist Petronella Hall that bring nature indoors, as does the rooflight above the bed that encourages stargazing.

Guests have complimentary entry to the castle – follow a private walkway that meanders through the Lady Baillie Mediterranean Garden Terraces – and out-of-hours access to explore the grounds in peace. Breakfast is served in the 17th-century oak-beamed Castle View restaurant.

Lodges from £245, B&B +44(0)1622 765400; leeds-castle.com

LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS, A BELMOND HOTEL GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE

Winner of the C&TH x Polestar Sustainability Award 2023, this is one of the best-known manor house hotels in the country – and for good reason. With the unequivocal gastronomic vision of Chef Patron Raymond Blanc OBE, the restaurant here received two Michelin stars in the first year of opening, in 1984, and has held them ever since. More recently, a Green Michelin Star has been added, acknowledging the seasonality, foraging and no-waste approach that are integral to the dining experience. The good news is that guests staying overnight are guaranteed a table for dinner. Afterwards, retire to one of the 32 individually designed rooms and suites, each one drawing inspiration from Blanc’s travels – with its toile de jouy wallpaper that evokes a sense of France. Stroll through manicured gardens to discover the magnificent orchards, ponds and sculptures, or book into classes at The Raymond Blanc Cookery and Gardening Schools. ‘Everyone aspires to one moment of luxury: here is the place to have it,’ says Blanc. We couldn’t agree more.

Doubles from £960 +44(0)1844 278881; belmond.com/lemanoir COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 83

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THE MITRE

HAMPTON COURT, SURREY

Set on the banks of the River Thames, overlooking magnificent Hampton Court Palace, this four-year-old hotel is a firm favourite with those in the know. The Mitre’s history is quite the draw: housed in a Grade II-listed building dating back to 1665, it was built at the direction of King Charles II as a ‘hostel for visitors to the Palace’. It is the sister property to The Retreat at Elcot Park (p86) and The Barnsdale (p124). Interior lovers will swoon at the design, too. Here, Nicola Harding has curated the most photogenic, individually styled bedrooms, all named after historical references linked to the hotel, including the spectacular King Henry VIII Suite. Choose from views over the Thames, palace or charming internal courtyards. Then there’s the fantastic culinary offering from the hotel’s kitchen team: choose from riverside 1665 Brasserie for fish pie or roast venison, or The Coppernose Cafe for fresh pastries and brunch dishes. The Mitre has one of the largest riverside terraces on the Thames, offering a blissful space for sundowners as swans and little boats glide by.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 8979 9988; mitrehamptoncourt.com

NORTON PARK HOTEL, SPA & MANOR HOUSE SUTTON SCOTNEY, WINCHESTER

Set in 54 acres of leafy parkland, just outside Winchester, Norton Park Hotel & Spa has all you could possibly want to switch off: lovely bedrooms, fantastic food and a blissful spa. There are 151 contemporary rooms and suites in the modern hotel. Or gather your friends and family and book out the beautiful 16th-century Manor House in the grounds with its 13 en-suite bedrooms, dining room fit for a king, two cosy lounges with squashy sofas and a magnificent orangery. Back at the hotel, the restaurant has a great range of dishes including a special menu for the little ones and a cosy modern bar to enjoy your favourite tripple.

Just leave space for afternoon tea – served in the traditional way with your choice of tea or coffee, or with a glass of Moet for a treat.

Or how about adding a modern twist with a teapot of Hendricks G&T? In the spa, expert therapists offer relaxing ELEMIS treatments, or relax in the indoor pool and steam room. If you can drag yourself away, there are stunning walking trails nearby that should not be missed.

Doubles from £123 B&B +44(0)1962 763 000; nortonparkhotel.com 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

THE HOME COUNTIES

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden.

If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms, full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty.

And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, jacuzzi, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck and guest lounge.

As for the six knockout first-floor spa suites – they pack a thoroughly contemporary punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk

THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT

Every PIG hotel in this magnificent litter has its very own personality. Bridge Place on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury has a rock ’n’ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 31-bedroom, Grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house is set in the Nailbourne valley that’s part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, while also containing a colourful recent past. The likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ Chairman Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for effortless, laidback chic. As with every other PIG, the Kitchen Garden and restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just 56 minutes by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 85

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THE PIG – IN THE SOUTH DOWNS

MADEHURST, WEST SUSSEX

Set within the small hamlet of Madehurst, THE PIG, high up on the South Downs in West Sussex, threw open its doors in September 2021 – complete with its own vineyard. And PIG owner Robin Hutson has done it again, creating a haven of rural bliss for his eighth hotel. Only four miles from Arundel and a short drive to the yachting playground of Chichester, it’s a brilliant base for exploring – but also great for hunkering down. The 28 lovingly-restored bedrooms are spread out between a higgledy-piggledy collection of traditional brick, flint and timber clad stable yard buildings, together with Field and Garden Wagons. Each is unique and classically PIG – think indulgent fabrics, reclaimed wood, roll-top baths and locally-stocked larders full of goodies. The wagons, tucked away in the walled garden or in the fields, are super cosy with log burners. The food, with its 25 mile menu, is, as ever, terrific. It’s simple British food done well with a focus on local and homegrown produce – plus there’s a wide-ranging wine list and large Kitchen Garden.

Doubles from £255 +44(0)1243 974500; thepighotel.com

THE RETREAT

ELCOT PARK, WEST BERKSHIRE

A newly reimagined 18th-century country hotel and spa set in glorious grounds between Hungerford and Newbury, The Retreat at Elcot Park is the sister property to The Mitre at Hampton Court (p84) and The Barnsdale (p124). Bedrooms are colourful and full of character, combining antiques with contemporary art and patterned textiles. Each suite is different: one has a copper roll-top bath in a bay window; another has a separate room with bunk beds for children. The vibe throughout is laid-back luxury. For food, choose between 1772, a timeless brasserie with a beautiful adjoining Orangery, or the fine-dining Pan-Asian restaurant Yü (ideally find time to try both). There’s also a children’s play area, and a spa complete with heated outdoor pool, hydrotherapy pool, treatment rooms, steam and sauna. The Courtyard is home to a wine cellar, hair and nail salon and the newly opened Signet Stores – perfect for souvenirs, gifts or a snack. Active types can play games of tennis. This is a new chapter for a country classic – and once you check in, there’s really no need to leave.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1635 800520; retreatelcotpark.com 86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb redbrick inn in the charming village of Yattendon. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap.

Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with inviting, deep sofas and a huge open fire for chilly winter nights.

On the other hand, in summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Richard Monk’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden.

Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a three-tiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. And after a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head than in one of the ten light and airy bedrooms? A king-sized bed beckons, with luxury linens and gorgeous throws.

The recently refurbished bathrooms are also stocked with beautiful Bramley products for that long soak in the roll-topped baths.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk

THE VINEYARD NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE

Just outside Newbury and only an hour from London, The Vineyard is a temple to Californian wine. The 30,000-bottle cellar includes wines from both the New and Old Worlds, as well as award-winning estate vintages from owner Sir Peter Michael’s eponymous winery (over 50 varieties are served by the glass). Where there’s exceptional wine, there is often food to match and that’s exactly the case here. Executive chef Tom Scade (who cut his teeth at the Ritz) oversees fine dining at The Vineyard Restaurant, known for its seasonal dishes, and The Tasting Room, where guests can tuck into a five-course tasting menu (a plant-based version is available too).

For small plates, tacos and dishes from the grill, the outside terrace is another big draw in summer. Expect super-soft linens on the beds, marble bathrooms and the very best service.

Artwork throughout is from Sir Peter’s private collection, which includes paintings by Degas and Pissarro, and sculpture by Henry Moore.

Plus, there’s a spa with Irene Forte skincare: heavenly treatments include a herbology facial and Sicilian scrub. A brilliant long weekender for oenophiles and foodies.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1635 528770; the-vineyard.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 87

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theLIST Eight Off-Grid Cabins

ANOOP BHULLER says goodbye to mod cons, and hello to the most relaxing stay of your life

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Goose LLANGOLLEN

Wake up to a view of the scenic Welsh Hills with a stay at the Goose cabin in the Dee Valley. Reconnect with nature by exploring local footpaths or get adventurous with archery, canoeing and axe throwing. It comes equipped with Dark Arts coffee and sumptuous Piglet in Bed linens to make your stay even more comfortable. From £150 per night. shacks.co.uk

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Caban Cariad PEMBROKESHIRE

This intimate, off-grid glamping pod is a perfect option for a lovely wellness escape. Solar lights and candles create a romantic ambience, with birdsong from the surrounding three-acre wood providing a soundtrack for your stay. There’s a woodfired sauna and yoga studio on site, and bikes available to hire. From £440, min two nights. cwtchcamping.co.uk

DEVON

Tucked away in a wild Devonshire meadow, The Withywindle comes equipped with some lovely additions including an outdoor Ooni oven to cook handmade pizzas, a welcome hamper featuring local produce, and a stack of books to keep you occupied. Hike to the farm shop or tackle The Granite Way, an 11-mile cycle trail on Dartmoor.

From £145 per night. canopyandstars.co.uk

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Penfold Cabin EAST SUSSEX

Set in the idyllic 40-acre private nature reserve of Swallowtail Hill, this cabin, sleeping up to four, is ideal for those in need of some time away from the bustling bright lights and big city. With no electricity, the cabin has its own wood-fired stove to keep warm, a covered dining deck, cooler boxes for food storage, and a fire pit with BBQ kit. In the summer, the wildflower meadows spring to life showcasing hundreds of bright blooms. From £400, min two nights. swallowtailhill.com

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PHOTOS: © ADAM FIRMAN; © JAKE EASTHAM; © GARY HOLPIN

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The Withywindle

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Devon Den DEVON

A beautiful eco-cabin surrounded by two acres of woodland and only a short distance from the beach and Dartmoor. Sleeping up to six, it has a wood-fired hot tub and a sauna for complete relaxation. Embrace the quietness of the countryside, and with no WiFi access, instead spend your days swimming in the Dartmoor pools, hiking the local trails and exploring the nearby beaches. From £140 per night. devondens.co.uk

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Mabel EAST SUSSEX

Located in a woodland clearing, in a secluded nook of Sussex countryside, this cabin has been simply decorated with an indoor wood burner and king-sized bed. Here, you can make the most of your digital detox by locking away your phone in the lockbox available. Instead, venture outdoors with the instant camera (also provided) to capture the nearby landmarks and scenery. From £420, min three nights. unplugged.rest

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Hinterlandes Cabin LAKE DISTRICT

Perched on top of a hill in the Lake District, the luxurious, Scandidecorated Hinterlandes Cabin offers peaceful accommodation cocooned in nature. Explore the nearby Grasmoor and Melbreak mountains – jump into the streams for some wild swimming. Make use of the firepit, and enjoy a cosy evening toasting marshmallows and stargazing before turning in inside the all-wood cabin. From £134 per night. canopyandstars.co.uk

PHOTOS: © ADAM FIRMAN; © JAKE EASTHAM; © GARY HOLPIN

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Stream Wagons, The Pig-at Combe

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HONITON

A recent addition to The Pig-at Combe, the Stream Wagons sit in a serene valley away from the main house.

Each is equipped with a log-burning stove and outdoor terrace, allowing guests to fully relax and drink in the surrounding meadow views. Only a stone’s throw away is The Pig’s restaurant with its famous and delicious 25-mile menu. It’s the perfect balance of off-grid and luxurious. From £420 per night. thepighotel.com

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Photo by Robert Bye / Unsplash

LONDON

Uplifting, yet exhausting. Enthralling, yet frustrating. The capital offers multitudinous experiences, yet never fails to cast its unique spell on visitors old and new

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11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA, SW3

Proudly individual and fabulously characterful, 11 Cadogan Gardens and its new sister hotel, The Chelsea Townhouse (p98), are the only Relais & Châteaux hotels in London. Expect five-star service, quirky design, and a playful vibe. Spread across four interconnected redbrick Victorian townhouses, it has 56 guest rooms, including 22 suites that are as memorable as they are luxurious (one is especially flamboyant and a little risqué). All have high ceilings and a wealth of natural light that floods through the bay windows. The hotel has a drawing room, the moody and seductive Chelsea Bar, and the popular Hans’ Bar & Grill, which has an all-day seasonal menu rooted in British produce – ideal locations for afternoon teas, late night cocktails, family breakfasts and everything in between.

Looking for a little more privacy or a longer stay? Located a stone’s throw from the hotel, across the leafy garden square, are The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens. Each floor features a one, two or three bedroom residence, offering a true home from home in the heart of London.

Doubles from £349 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com

ARTIST RESIDENCE LONDON PIMLICO, SW1

The third hotel from the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie Salisbury – following their Artist Residences in Brighton and Penzance – this was once just a down-at-heel local boozer. Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. Over three elegant floors it has ten comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds (for those who want to splash out, the Grand Suite has a four-poster bed, cosy armchairs and, in the bathroom, a cast iron free-standing tub). There’s a moody and glamorous bar tucked away in the basement that comes alive at night, serving drinks inspired by cult movies: try the Kill Bill, which comes with a black vanilla sugar stripe, or Smoke & Mirrors, featuring brandy, orange liqueur and caramel syrup. And taking centre stage is the café, a welcoming social space by day, serving brunch, cold-pressed juices and Extract Coffee, which transforms into a modern restaurant at night.

Even better, a separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check-in at the bar.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 3019 8610; artistresidence.co.uk 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

THE BAILEY’S HOTEL LONDON KENSINGTON SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

The excellently located hotel on Gloucester Road, part of Millenium Hotels and Resorts Group, has set itself apart thanks to its inspired fusion of British-meets-Asian heritage.

Opened in 1876 by James Bailey, a butlerturned-hotelier, The Bailey’s was the first purpose-built hotel in the area and has been going strong ever since. The Victorian grandeur of this Grade II-listed townhouse is deeply British, as are the stylish super comfortable 212 rooms and marble bathrooms, with a focus on homegrown craftsmanship. Book a Signature Suite, which features a roll top bath and living area. It’s the elegant restaurant which introduces the Asian influence. The recently relaunched The Bugis Singapore Restaurant offers authentic Singaporean dishes influenced

by Malaysian and Chinese cuisines. Skilled mixologists conjure up cocktails to your taste in The Bailey’s Bar, a sophisticated space of high ceilings, chandeliers and panelled wood.

There’s a well-equipped gym to keep you in shape but head outdoors for a stroll – the Natural History Museum, the V&A and Royal Albert Hall are only a stone’s throw away.

For more information please go to the website. +44 (0)20 7373 6000; millenniumhotels.com

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name.

Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (p100 & 105), it was inspired by the 18th century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens in a grand style. The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books and fine paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel.

Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with 17th and 18th century carved oak beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period fittings.

Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. Your most difficult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our choice is The Tapestry Room, with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits and French doors that open onto a pretty courtyard.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 93

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THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR, W1

Overlooking a quiet garden square in the heart of Mayfair, The Beaumont has embodied the spirit of grand 1920s hotels since it opened in 2014, with its chequerboard lobby floor, early 20th-century paintings and gleaming antiques. Social spaces include the classy Magritte Bar; the award-winning afternoon tea lounge, Gatsby’s Room; and a terrace for light, al-fresco lunches and suppers among lush greenery. The striking muralled Colony Grill Room has a clubby atmosphere with red leather banquettes where guests can feast on timeless transatlantic classics. This year saw a completion of a three-year refurb, including the addition of a new 29-room wing and a freshening up of the existing 50 Art Deco-themed rooms and 22 suites by French architect and interior designer Thierry Despont. All are handsome and comfortable: the showstopper is Antony Gormley’s Room, a three-storey extension and public artwork on the outside, an extraordinary one-bedroom suite of dark-fumed oak within. Try the hammam treatments and spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at London’s RAC Club and the original New York YMCA. Doubles from £550 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

BEAVERBROOK TOWNHOUSE CHELSEA, SW3

This sister hotel to Beaverbrook in Surrey (see p77) opened three years ago in a pair of restored Georgian townhouses and quickly became a Sloane Street hit. The ground floor is all about socialising: sipping cocktails in the Art Deco-detailed Sir Frank’s Bar (named after Sir Frank Lowe, creative director and curator of the artwork that is displayed throughout) and tucking into sensational Japanese food in The Fuji Grill where traditional sushi and sashimi is served up alongside Beaverbrook signatures such as popcorn shrimp tempura. There’s also The Butterfly Room, a private dining room for up to 14 guests. Upstairs, each suite is named after a London theatre and has framed programmes of past productions on the walls. They are designed by Nicola Harding (she was behind the rooms at Beaverbrook’s Garden House and the new Village) who has combined her trademark cosy fabrics and printed textiles with modern four-posters, fringed velvet sofas and bold contemporary colour palettes.

Ask at reception and staff will lend you the key to Cadogan Gardens opposite for peaceful afternoon meandering.

Doubles from £510

+44 (0)20 3988 6611; beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

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LONDON

BINGHAM RIVERHOUSE RICHMOND

Bingham Riverhouse began life as two Georgian townhouses and, from 1899-1910, it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’. Today, the new laidback Riverhouse Restaurant is overseen by award-winning South African chef Vanessa Marx, a champion of slow food who whips up modern comfort dishes, while the drawing room bar has a spacious feel of a country house kitchen. The Riverhouse also has its own members’ club, which is increasingly becoming a hub for entrepreneurs who make a beeline for the tranquil Thameside work setting, private bookable meeting rooms and events. There are 15 rooms, each with a handmade Naturalmat bed and yoga mat so guests can join the daily in-house wellbeing classes; some also have copper freestanding baths. But it’s the bucolic Richmond setting that adds that extra magic: the river is just at the end of the terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats splash by all day.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; binghamriverhouse.com

BROWN’S HOTEL, A ROCCO FORTE HOTEL MAYFAIR, W1

Brown’s was founded in 1832 by Lord Byron’s butler and is London’s oldest luxury hotel.

Today, this five-star delight is part of the Rocco Forte Hotels umbrella, with rooms and suites curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, the brand’s founder and namesake.

The Kipling Suite pays tribute to Rudyard Kipling, who is believed to have penned The Jungle Book here, while the Sir Paul Smith Suite features furniture, hand-picked artworks and furnishings from the designer’s furniture collaborations. Find afternoon tea in The Drawing Room, where wood panelling complements wallpaper of a Hogarthian 19th-century London. The Donovan Bar, in honour of photographer Terence Donovan, has a new ‘Happily Ever After’ cocktail menu by ‘Maestro’ Salvatore Calabrese and Director of Mixology Federico Pavan with each cocktail inspired by an iconic fairytale. Meanwhile, Charlie’s at Brown’s, helmed by Adam Byatt of Michelin-starred Trinity, offers a seasonal menu and live music including jazz on Sunday evenings. There’s a luxurious spa with indulgent Irene Forte Skincare products too.

Doubles from £800 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 95

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theLIST

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Five Craft Workshops

These hands-on experiences worth travelling for, says TESSA DUNTHORNE

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Mosaics HOLSWORTHY

From the creative reuse of old china to Roman mosaic making, Adela Webb’s workshops are a crafty treat. Expect to take something home that reinvents waste products into pieces of art, all while being caffeinated in a cosy little studio. moonharestudio.com

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CHESHIRE

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GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

Coracles are the most simple, traditional watercraft – a small, skin-on-frame boat.

Expert maker John will help you build one of your own. You’ll shape willow withies, lash them together and stitch to canvas – and then you’ll take it for a test swim. valkyriecraft.com

Lampwork Bead Making

Create a unique jewellery ornament of your own under the tutelage of Gill Hesketh at the Cheshire School of Glass. This workshop will teach you how to manipulate molten glass over a flame to create a pretty little bead that

Boat Making

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can adorn your wrist or home. Or try stained glass creation, glass-fusing tasters, and copper lamp making. cheshireschoolofglass.co.uk

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5

Millinery Workshop HARROGATE

In search of a whopping great hat to wow at Royal Ascot? Under the expert tutelage of Jenny Roberts, create your own.

Make anything from a cocktail hatinator to a trim winter fedora, equipping you with the skills to fill (and top) your head for life. jrmillinery.co.uk

Wool Spinning POWYS, WALES

Those who favour knit or crochet as their craft of choice will love Helen Hickman’s wool spinning workshop at Nellie & Eve in Powys. You’ll learn to sort fleece, use hand and drum carders, and then you’ll try the spinning wheel. Sleeping beauties, beware – don’t prick your finger. nellieandeve.com

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LONDON

BULGARI HOTEL LONDON KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW7

Perfectly positioned between Hyde Park and Sloane Street, Bulgari Hotel London is the ultimate city escape. Elegant contemporary architecture and Bulgari’s legendary flair for design are matched with impeccable service.

Generously proportioned rooms and suites are combined with unrivalled facilities, including The Bulgari Spa’s 25-metre swimming pool, 12 single treatment rooms including a private spa suite, its pioneering Workshop Gymnasium with on-site personal training team, a private cinema and a beautiful ballroom. The Bulgari Lounge, offering all-day dining in the comfort and glamour of an Italian-style living room, invites guests to indulge in afternoon tea, crafted to savour the richness of Italian flavours. Sette by Scarpetta, an independently operated restaurant located on the ground floor, is the first London location of LDV Hospitality’s Scarpetta Restaurant concept from New York City, serving authentic Italian food with its own inimitable flair. Nolita Social lies beneath the restaurant, an underground bar and lounge that brings the energy of ‘the New York night’ to London with a heady mix of crafted cocktails, live music and DJs. Doubles from £690 +44 (0)20 7151 1010; bulgarihotels.com

THE CADOGAN, A BELMOND HOTEL, LONDON CHELSEA, SW1

A standout on Sloane Street, The Cadogan’s glamorous good looks may recall well-heeled neighbouring Knightsbridge, but its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is in here too. From the original 1887 facade to the modern bedrooms and suites, the hotel is stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables doubling as desks and statement paintings from female British artists. It took its inspiration from the private gardens opposite – for which you can, as guests, get keys. The hotel is steeped in rich history with recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the café restaurant, The LaLee. Offering delightful European dishes, the menu, which features the very best of the season, reflects the refined tastes that seduced Lillie on her travels. Over in The Cadogan Lounge, you can enjoy a fine dining afternoon tea from pastry chef Benoit Blin and experience a quintessentially British afternoon tea with a French twist.

Superior rooms from £790 +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 97

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THE CHELSEA TOWNHOUSE CHELSEA, SW3

Sitting in the heart of London’s vibrant Chelsea neighbourhood, this is the newest addition to the Iconic Luxury Hotels portfolio.

Debuting in September 2023, it has 36 rooms and suites spread across three handsome Queen Anne-style, Victorian red-brick townhouses. A discreet doorbell entrance reveals a patchwork tiled floor and sweeping staircases, where guests are welcomed in

by Townhouse Hosts. Heritage fixtures such as marble fireplaces and ornate crown mouldings are paired with restored furniture and trinkets from around the world, lending the property a sense of grandeur and timeless charm. Thoughtful touches include a welcome Chelsea Bun, plus the four Chelsea Studio Suites each come with their own kitchenette that can be pre-stocked with artisanal produce.

Downstairs, there’s a help-yourself buffet breakfast which can be eaten in the Dining Salon or the light-filled library. Best of all, guests have access to the private Cadogan Gardens – a tranquil oasis of lush greenery, towering mulberry trees and the sound of birdsong – as well as 11 Cadogan Gardens, including use of the restaurant, bar and gym.

Doubles from £299 +44 (0)20 7730 6466; thechelseatownhouse.com

THE FRANKLIN LONDON – STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

A stone’s throw from Harrods and the V&A, yet tucked away overlooking tranquil Egerton Gardens, this hotel combines the feeling of a private home with impeccable service. Interior designer Anouska Hempel’s timeless Italianinfluenced design translates to Art Deco details, Rubelli brocades and glittering taffeta that lends a glamorous vibe to the social spaces.

In the 35 spacious rooms and suites, dramatic dark walls are offset with mirrors to bounce the light around; they also come with Frette linens, botanical wall art and velvet armchairs.

The Franklin Restaurant by Alfredo Russo continues the nod to Italy with modern Piedmont cuisine served in an elegant setting (silk ikat-pattern fabrics, immense Venetian eglomise mirrors). On the menu, pastas are followed by dishes such as chargrilled corn-fed chicken and roasted red snapper (leave room for tempting desserts such as tiramisu and mille-feuille tart too). Afternoon tea has a haute couture theme and there’s a 1920s Great Gatsby-style bar for cocktails. When you’re not out exploring, the hotel has a hammam, fitness centre and cosy library for downtime.

Doubles from £380 +44(0)20 7584 5533; collezione.starhotels.com 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT PARK LANE MAYFAIR, W1

Mayfair has its fair share of five-star hotels.

However, Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane stands out from the crowd with its Art Deco elegance, vibrant interiors and all-round excellence. Opened in 1970, this big hitter is the most established Four Seasons in Europe but shows no sign of slowing down.

The 196 newly renovated rooms and suites add further sparkle, from the beautifully appointed Executive Conservatories to the Hyde Park Suite, with sweeping views of Park Lane and the park. The beds are quite possibly the most comfy in London. When it comes to dining, multi-awarded chef Yannick Alléno has brought his modern French cuisine to the Michelin-star Pavyllon London, producing innovative plates – book a table at the counter to experience serious culinary theatre. Bar Antoine serves up superb cocktails, including Yannick’s signature Allenotics (the reinvented G&T). Just don’t miss the jaw-dropping tenthfloor spa – serene in oak and stone – with nine glass-walled treatment rooms plus delicious relaxation pods. The service is faultless and the best of the city is right on your doorstep.

From £800 +44 (0)20 7499 0888; fourseasons.com

THE GORING BELGRAVIA, SW1

Created from the maverick mind of Otto Goring in 1910, The Goring imbues both the splendour and mischief of the pre-war Edwardians: an era when those in the know excelled at having a good time. Today, the hotel maintains its original spirit and is still richly woven with a particular brand of Britishness. From Gainsborough silks hand-crafted with historic tales in the luxurious suites and cosy bedrooms, to the scarlet red coattails worn by the footmen, every detail is a slice of escapism (it’s also within strolling distance of the Royal Parks and Buckingham Palace). One of the few family-run hotels that is truly independent, staff here welcome guests old and new like age-old friends. Whether stopping for a chat during afternoon tea, or delivering a surprise visit from Teddy the Shetland pony, they exude a delightful old-fashioned flair for service. Refreshed this year, the Michelin starred Dining Room includes a new stateof-the-art kitchen and chef ’s table, while the Goring Cocktail Bar, with its live pianist, is an elegant setting for a post-dinner digestif.

The perfect way to end a day in London.

Doubles from £800 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 99

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THE HARI

BELGRAVIA, SW1

Walking through the leafy streets of Belgravia, there’s one building that can’t help but catch the eye: The Hari, with its striking navy and glass façade that’s adorned with cascading foliage, and is a taste of the peaceful sanctuary within. There are 85 designer rooms, including 14 suites, all decidedly chic with plush velvet upholstery, sleek marble bathrooms and contemporary art from the likes of Tracey Emin and Mario Testino. The hotel also has an annual art prize, in collaboration with A Space For Art, which has curated the public areas since 2016, and has been awarded Silver Accreditation by EarthCheck, the world’s leading environmental certification for travel tourism. Enveloped in crawling ivy, the Garden Terrace is a hidden gem, perfect for a lazy lunch al fresco or afternoon aperitif, and with its retractable roof and heaters, it’s the ideal spot come rain or shine. Il Pampero restaurant’s Italian-inspired menu is full of delicious homemade pasta dishes. All this just a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, and the Royal Albert Hall, as well as the city’s most prestigious shopping districts.

Doubles from £540 +44 (0)20 7858 0100; thehari.com

HAZLITT’S SOHO, W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart – the bulging bookcases are full of signed tomes from former guests including Bill Bryson, Ted Hughes and Seamus Heaney. The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and paintings, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings.

Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (p93 & 105), they are delightfully different from other London hotels.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE MARYLEBONE, W1

Set in the former home of Jane Austen’s favourite brother Henry, this discreet townhouse hotel is a home-from-home in Marylebone that also feels like a smart members’ club (you can take over the whole place if you wish). Full of Georgian glamour, original period features and sophisticated yet cosy spaces, it is the result of a collaboration between the owners and in-demand interior designer Russell Sage.

Six sumptuous bedrooms, all named after Jane Austen’s relatives, come with four poster beds, roll-top baths, rich fabrics and colour palettes, oil paintings and antiques.

Breakfast is served at the refectory table in Monsieur Halavant’s Pantry Kitchen, the Georgian-inspired kitchen and dining room (it’s also the spot for meetings and private dinners for up to 12) while Jane’s Sitting Room is ideal for evening aperitifs or a place to simply curl up with a book.

Don’t miss the first-floor landing carriage snug, based on a railway carriage, where you can squirrel away for a glass of wine, or the intimate outdoor terrace, a peaceful setting for morning coffee or breakfast.

Doubles from £545 +44 (0)1451 850577; henrystownhouse.co.uk

HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL PICCADILLY, W1

A landmark address on Regent Street for more than 150 years, this hotel has seen everyone from Oscar Wilde and David Bowie to Winston Churchill walk through its doors (the latter, apparently, came for the excellent steaks, stilton and champagne). A huge Murano glass chandelier in the sleek lobby sets the opulent tone for the interiors, including The Grill Room, a decadent, Grade II-listed gilded, mirrored space where afternoon tea is served to the sound of a pianist playing, and the speakeasy-like Green Bar – ideal for pre-dinner cocktails. Rooms and suites feel calm, many panelled in English oak, with marble bathrooms and views of the bustling street below. Equally sanctuary-like is the underground Akasha spa, which offers wellness experiences from fitness consultations to Watsu treatments, plus exclusive partnerships with U Beauty and Therabody.

Don’t miss chef Alex Dilling’s tasting menus in the two Michelin-starred restaurant, which are a modern take on traditional French cuisine; Barbounia which brings the warmth of the Mediterranean to central London; or Albert Adrià’s Cakes & Bubbles.

Doubles from £795 +44 (0)20 7406 3333; hotelcaferoyal.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 101

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JW MARRIOTT GROSVENOR HOUSE LONDON MAYFAIR, W1

Located on Park Lane with sweeping views over Hyde Park, this historic hotel is perfectly located a stone’s throw from the designer boutiques of Bond Street and Mount Street, and all the attractions of Mayfair. Inside, rooms and suites take their cues from nature (golden leaf-patterned carpets, foliage wallpapers in the hallway) and both come with elegant marble bathrooms. Indulge in afternoon tea served in the Park Room accompanied by a pianist; sip a signature Old Fashioned in the Bourbon Bar – home to over 300 rare, pre-prohibition, single batch bourbons – before supper at JW Steakhouse where prime cuts of British and American beef are surely best followed by a slice of the legendary baked JW cheesecake (guests can also grab takeaway coffees and pastries from the Park Lane Market cafe before setting out to explore). There’s also a fitness suite, hair salon by Steven Carey, and an expert concierge team who can arrange anything from guided wellbeing walks in Mayfair to horseback riding in Hyde Park and dinner reservations for two with a Thames view.

Doubles from £530 londongrosvenorhouse.com

THE LONDONER WEST END, W1

When this super-boutique hotel opened in 2021, it was a much-needed boost for Leicester Square. Six years in the making and spread across 16 storeys, it’s all bellsand-whistles – from the two-screen cinema to the vast ballroom and the subterranean wellness floor where the tranquil pool is surrounded by cabanas (ideal for escaping the West End bustle). Sleek, serene interiors with a neutral palette come courtesy of international design studio Yabu Pushelberg (and those staying in the hotel also have access to The Residence, three guest-only socialising spaces). There are also a handful of must-try bars and restaurants, including French fine dining Whitcomb’s with influences from the Mediterranean; Joshua’s Tavern, inspired by 18th-century artist Joshua Reynolds, which specialises in terroir-led gins; and The Stage, which is the place for a grown-up afternoon tea or glass of champagne (there’s often live music at weekends). Perhaps the biggest buzz, though, is 8 at The Londoner, the izakaya rooftop bar with a terrace offering top-drawer cityscape views.

Doubles from £499 thelondoner.com 102 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, SW1

The celebrated Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is a byword for luxury and outstanding service. This original London outpost is no exception. A multimillion-pound renovation of the redbrick Edwardian building was completed to designs by Joyce Wang six years ago. She cited the beauty of Hyde Park, the hotel’s royal heritage and the glamour of the golden age of travel as her inspiration.

The bedrooms are sanctuaries of calm, with curated artwork and bespoke furniture. For dining, there’s two Michelin-star Dinner

by Heston Blumenthal, The Rosebery with its fabulous award-winning afternoon tea, all-day dining and cocktails, and The Aubrey, a Japanese izakaya restaurant, with live DJs daily. Hyde Park Garden is the latest addition, designed by the Dinner team, with a menu inspired by British botanicals plus phenomenal park views. New spa offerings include advanced facials in partnership with Oskia and Biologique Recherche, holistic health workshops and nutritional consultations with Clinique La Prairie, and the BodySpace Momentum Studio. Fans, take note: Mandarin Oriental Mayfair opens later this year.

Doubles from £930 +44 (0)20 7235 2000; mandarinoriental.com

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE MAYFAIR, W1

Located on Half Moon Street, alongside Piccadilly, The Mayfair Townhouse sits across 15 Georgian townhouses, seven of which are listed. Rich in history and once a known haunt for colourful characters, it evokes a debonair Oscar-Wilde-meetsAlice-in-Wonderland aesthetic. Touches of whimsy combine with practicality in the 172 individually designed rooms and suites which range from cosy Cabin rooms to two interconnecting Garden Suites that opens onto a private patio, or one of the three lavish Signature Suites. The Dandy Bar is the heart and soul of The Townhouse; an intimate and sophisticated cocktail bar where style meets decadence, while The Lower Ground is a vibrant space to work, connect and eat. An expertly curated collection of over 550 pieces of art, including a Swarovski crystal peacock sculpture, is woven seamlessly throughout. Stepping out into the heart of Mayfair, there is a wealth of restaurants, boutiques, art galleries and museums on the doorstep; a short walk leads to Shepherd Market, Green Park and Buckingham Palace.

Doubles from £312 +44 (0)20 8138 3400; themayfairtownhouse.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 103

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ONE ALDWYCH COVENT GARDEN, WC2

Housed in a beautiful heritage building that was once home to The Morning Post newspaper, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned on the edge of bustling Covent Garden. Contemporary yet soothing suites and bedrooms feel like a real sanctuary and come with sweeping views of the cityscape below. Signature restaurant Indigo, from Chef Dominic Teague, celebrates British producers in seasonal delicious dishes such as wild mushroom wellington or catch of the day, served in crisp beer batter. The Lobby Bar with its extensive list of the coolest craft cocktails is an institution; the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-themed afternoon tea is huge fun for all ages, featuring snozzberry jam and chocolate swudge milkshake. The Concierge has the inside track on everything from the best brunch spots and hottest theatre tickets to must-visit exhibitions. Upon return, settle down in The Library with its comfortable sofas and piles of beautiful books.

And, for pampering – whether a refreshing swim, a pick-me-up facial or an invigorating massage – you can while away a few hours in the deeply cosseting health club and spa.

From £700 for a Superior Room +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com

THE PENINSULA LONDON BELGRAVIA, SW1

The first UK outpost of this renowned Hong Kong brand doesn’t disappoint. The Peninsula London sits right by Hyde Park Corner, a deeply serene oasis with the hotel’s trademark green Rolls-Royces outside and afternoon tea that takes place in the elegant lobby that’s decorated with hand-blown chandeliers and hand-painted De Gournay murals. Hugely spacious understated rooms designed by Peter Marino come with mahogany-panelled dressing rooms, honey onyx bathrooms and plenty of seamless technology including PenChat, a 24-hour e-concierge. As well as all-day dining in the Lobby, there’s also Canton Blue, a Cantonese restaurant with adjacent tea lounge and the two-Michelin star rooftop restaurant Brooklands by Claude Bosi. At the latter, modern British food combines with French techniques and a backdrop that pays homage to aviation and motorsport (it’s named after a Surrey racetrack and features a vintage Napier Railton and scale-model of Concorde suspended from the ceiling). The finishing touch is the subterranean spa, fitness centre and pool where underwater speakers mean soothing music for an early morning swim.

Deluxe doubles from £1,300 +44 (0)20 3959 2888; peninsula.com/london 104 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

THE RITZ LONDON MAYFAIR, W1

One of the most iconic hotels in the world, with an enviable location on London’s Piccadilly overlooking the royal Green Park.

Opened in 1906 by hotelier César Ritz, The Ritz London quickly became a favourite of Hollywood stars and royalty alike, and was the first hotel to be awarded a Royal Warrant in 2002 for banqueting and catering services. Ideal for families and couples alike, guests today can choose between lavish Louis XVI-style rooms and suites. In the Michelinstarred Ritz Restaurant, with its sparkling chandeliers and marble columns, executive chef John Williams MBE uses the finest seasonal ingredients. His famed signature dishes include Cornish turbot, beef wellington and langoustine à la nage. Or choose the theatrical four-course Arts de la Table dinner menu which showcases the harmony between the kitchen and front of house teams through the guéridon style of service. Guests may also enjoy the legendary afternoon tea in The Palm Court complete with a resident pianist (The Ritz even has a certified Tea Master) or spend the evening sipping cocktails in the intimate Art Deco Rivoli Bar. Doubles from £825 +44 (0)20 7493 8181; theritzlondon.com

THE ROOKERY CLERKENWELL, EC1

Those in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell.

After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same.

Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books. In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-dowells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky floors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only a stone’s throw from St Paul’s Cathedral.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 105

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ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

With its winning combination of English heritage and contemporary sophistication, Rosewood London sits firmly in the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels. The Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought iron gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s central courtyard with its majestic façades, while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites, splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance and the jewel box Mirror Room, which serves an innovative afternoon tea inspired by London’s latest exhibitions. Meanwhile, Martin Brudnizki designed both Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with a trendy gin bar – and the popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with paintings by satirical artist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s Pie Room, run by Nokx Majozi, who was also named one of the 100 Most Influential Women in Hospitality. Suites come with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless.

Doubles from £700 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com

THE STANDARD, LONDON KING’S CROSS, WC1

This is The Standard brand’s first hotel outside America – and a brilliant one. Set in a unique Brutalist building in King’s Cross, its hip vibe fits right in with this cool, regenerating part of London. The retro interiors sing of the Seventies: geometric shapes, colourful lighting, inviting leather armchairs and cream shagpiles.

There are 266 bright rooms, from snug Cosy Cores (perfect for catching an early Eurostar) to the huge, terraced suites with outdoor bathtubs and spectacular views over St Pancras station or the city. The three restaurants are excellent. Chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, previously of the Michelin-starred Casamia in Bristol, serves Mexican and Spanish-inspired flavour-packed dishes such as gambas rojas, mangalitza pork and a dramatically different tortilla. Next door, Sweeties serves playful cocktails under a disco ball. Downstairs, laidback Isla triumphs with its zingy seasonal menu while hearty fare and tasty cocktails can be found at Double Standard. And don’t plan on an early night – there’s a DJ in the Library Lounge for seeing out the small hours. And if that wasn’t enough, the seasonal summer rooftop boasts 360°-views of London.

Doubles from £299 +44(0)20 3981 8888; standardhotels.com/london 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LONDON

TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE SUITES AND RESIDENCES WESTMINSTER, SW1

A stone’s throw from Buckingham Palace and Mayfair, this five-star hotel is in a prime location for exploring the capital – and equally ideal for both short breaks and longer stays. The suites and residences are vast (with up to six bedrooms), each with a fully equipped kitchen and living area. A team of butlers and Clefs d’Or Concierge are available to assist guests with anything from restaurant reservations to spa bookings.

The Michelin-starred restaurant Quilon is a celebration of South-West Indian cuisine, while Kona is known for its selection of award-winning afternoon teas. Other must-try dining experiences include TH@51, where the international menu perfectly reflects London’s myriad of culinary influences, and House of Ming, which serves up dishes inspired by regional Sichuan and Cantonese cooking. Wellness is at the heart of the hotel’s offering. J Wellness Circle specialises in treatments and therapies that take their cue from India’s holistic approach to wellbeing, aimed at revitalising not just the body but the mind and soul too.

Suites from £700 +44 (0)20 7769 7766; taj51buckinghamgate.co.uk

THE WESTIN LONDON CITY THE CITY, EC3

Westin Hotels & Resorts, part of the Marriott Bonvoy portfolio, opened in 2021 its first UK hotel, The Westin London City. The hotel is a relative newcomer to London’s five-star hotel scene, but this sophisticated venue has already left its mark. Overlooking Shakespeare’s Globe and Tate Modern, with a stunning riverside position, its location is unbeatable. The hotel boasts 225 light-filled bedrooms, including ten suites and three expansive Westin Residences.

Each residence features three bedrooms, sleek marble bathrooms and a balcony overlooking the Thames. Dining can be enjoyed in Hithe + Seek, a bar and kitchen offering small plates, wines and cocktails, and in Mosaic, an all-day dining restaurant, with an Eat Well menu of nourishing dishes. The Heavenly Spa by Westin has invigorating treatments, using all-natural Philosophia Botanica, skin expert Germaine de Capuccini and Aromatherapy Associates products – book the Forest Therapy, which combats pollution. The spa also features a 12m pool, sauna and steam. Gym enthusiasts will appreciate the fitness studio, equipped with Peloton Bikes, Hyperice station, and Technogym equipment.

Signature king room from £375 +44 (0)20 3146 2690; westinlondoncity.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 107

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Photo by Joe Green / Unsplash

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THE COTSWOLDS Come for the chocolate box cottages and pastoral bliss; stay for the glorious local produce, thoughtful restaurants, and majestic ruins COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 109

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE BELL INN

LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE

Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th-century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. They reopened The Bell – a much-loved local inn in a picturesque Cotswold village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks.

‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren after he visited. It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a no-nonsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood-fired fish, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and flagstoned room. The eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground floor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms.

You’ll be hard pushed to find a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn and arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and fishing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllang ford.com

CALCOT & SPA

TETBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

PHOTOS: © MITCH TONKS; © WE THE FOOD SNOBS

Set within 220 acres of rewilded countryside, Calcot suits many occasions – honeymoons, family gatherings, spa breaks, country weekends – with equal success. Although it has roots going back to the 14th century, the present stone manor became a hotel in 1984 and celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. Today, it’s the flagship of The Calcot Collection, a small hotel group that includes Lord Crewe Arms (p144) and The Painswick (p115). Guests checking-in will find 34 refreshed and reinvigorated cream-hued rooms, a recently expanded spa (with ComfortZone treatments), an Ofsted-registered crèche, and The Grain Store, a new, state-of-the-art gym and wellness sanctuary. Rooms in the manor house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites are in converted cottages and barns; deluxe suites have their own private garden. Linger over imaginative seasonal dishes in the Brasserie restaurant (the Brecon venison lasagne is superb) or graze in The Hive café, which transforms into a buzzy cocktail bar at night. It’s also only a stone’s throw from Highgrove and Gatcombe Park if you’re after a dose of royalty.

Doubles from £299 +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.com 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE CROWN INN, ENSTONE CHIPPING NORTON, OXFORDSHIRE

In the pretty, peaceful village of Church Enstone, this sister pub to the Kingham Plough and The Hare, Milton-underWychwood, makes a brilliant base for exploring the Cotswolds. The market towns of Moreton-in-Marsh, Stow-on-the-Wold and Stratford-upon-Avon are all nearby, as is Soho Farmhouse, while Bicester Village is a 20-minute drive away. Above the pub, owners Matt and Katie Beamish offer five beautiful ensuite rooms with original oak beams and luxurious touches. There’s also a two-bedroom cottage next door sleeping four. The Crown’s flagstone floor bar is cosy in winter, while the suntrap walled garden is lovely in summer. On the seasonal menus of modern British dishes, only the very best of fresh, locally sourced produce is used. Expect innovative twists, re-imagined pub classics and daily changing specials alongside seasonal bar snacks, incredible Sunday roasts and a very good children’s menu, plus water bowls and biscuits for dogs. Keep an eye out for weekly changing local and guest ales, too, such as those from Hook Norton Brewery just down the road.

Doubles above the pub from £150; cottage £225 a night (2-night minimum stay) +44(0)1608 677262; crowninnenstone.co.uk

THE DOUBLE RED DUKE

PHOTOS: © MITCH TONKS; © WE THE FOOD SNOBS

CLANFIELD, OXFORDSHIRE

This wisteria-clad coaching inn close to Oxford and on the edge of the Cotswolds is a recent hotspot from Sam and Georgie Pearman of Country Creatures and Cubitt House. Guests can hunker down in one of the cosy sitting rooms for drinks before heading to the openplan bar and garden room for – the biggest draw – the food. Henrik Ritzén (of Bluebird fame) cooks over a live fire; book the chef’s counter to be at the heart of the action. Think charred squid, smoked aubergine and miso dip, the best longhorn steaks, and crème brûlée for dessert. They also do a fabulous chef series throughout the year, hosting exciting talent such as Will Bowlby, co-founder of London’s wildly successful Indian restaurant Kricket. Upstairs, comfortable rooms (the biggest sleep a family of four) with original wooden beams shine a spotlight on British artisans. Upholstered furniture is designed by George Smith, fabrics and wallpaper are from Fermoie and Rapture and Wright, among others. There is also a shepherd’s hut in the herb garden for massages using all-natural, botanical products. The garden room for up to 40 and a 12-seater feasting room can both be hired for parties.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1367 810222; countrycreatures.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 111

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding countryside retreat set within a 90-acre estate on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is a lovingly restored Cotswold manor, parts of which date back to the 15th century. It’s steeped in history: home to the Earl of Ellenborough, former governor general of India in the 1830s (the influence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery), today it has been elevated to contemporary glory. The 61 rooms, suites, and newly added self-catering hideaway, The Lodge, all have appealing country house character (think antique furniture, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and roll top baths). There’s an outdoor heated pool, a hot tub and sauna (part of the new serene Spa Garden retreat) and a soul-soothing spa, as well as a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse.

The main restaurant specialises in British classics with a twist. Spring and summer months see an al fresco dining delight in quirky dining carriages, decked Cedar Pavilion and sunny Taittinger Terrace. Guests can also enjoy a glass of champagne from the converted Horse Box trailer bar while watching the sunset over the racecourse.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com

THE FEATHERED NEST COUNTRY INN

NETHER WESTCOTE, OXFORDSHIRE

A beacon among the new breed of converted inns, The Feathered Nest is as comfortable, stylish and well-equipped as a fine hotel, but smaller and more relaxed. Attractively laid out and furnished, this handsome property is triumphing under owner Adam Taylor.

The four bedrooms, each with breathtaking views of the Evenlode Valley, blend the practical with the luxurious, kitted out with Nespresso machines, gleaming antiques, books and magazines. Plus, there’s a cosy one-bedroom cottage, with flagstone flooring, exposed fire mantle and wooden beams. In the rustic chic dining room or outside on the terrace, the modern British food in the three-AA rosette restaurant is as impressive as the bedrooms. New head chef Renemar Pinedo (who cut his teeth at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Dabbous) takes inspiration from his Caribbean roots with a focus on fresh seafood and open grill cooking. There’s also an excellent wine list. They are dog-friendly too – four-legged friends are welcome in The Cottage and the cosy bar, which has live music, friendly locals and a roaring fire.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1993 833030; thefeatherednestinn.co.uk 112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE GREENWAY HOTEL & SPA CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Tucked away in peaceful Shurdington, near Cheltenham, is this relaxing 16th-century Elizabethan manor house hotel in eight acres of lush grounds. The 21 bedrooms are countryside chic at its best. There are 13 in the main house, six in the adjoining coach house and two in the restored gatehouse. Some have four-poster beds, others have roll top baths or exposed beams. All have super comfortable beds.

Talented chef Abhijit Dasalkar brings flair and imagination to the kitchen, producing fresh, bold, innovative plates. The award-winning three AA Rosette fine-dining Garden Room Restaurant – all oak panelled with beautiful views over the garden and lily pond – serves fresh, contemporary flavours, using local seasonal produce and suppliers. For something more relaxed, choose the modern Orchard Brasserie, with its internationally inspired bento boards and delicious traditional afternoon teas.

The sumptuous Elan Spa is another highlight, offering luxurious Temple Spa treatments, pampering mani-pedis and nurturing cancer wellness massages. The spectacular surrounds of the Cotswolds up the wellness factor further and dogs are welcome at the hotel.

Doubles from £224 +44 (0)1242 862352; thegreenwayhotelandspa.com

THE LAKES BY YOO

LECHLADE, GLOUCESTERSHIR

Think you know the Cotswolds? Think again. Discover a secluded oasis where luxury meets nature in perfect harmony.

Nestled among lush meadows, woodlands, and shimmering lakes, this retreat redefines the traditional hotel experience. Choose from cosy cabins or luxurious lakeside homes, each offering unbeatable views and serene surroundings. Families and couples alike can unwind and explore, with a plethora of activities to suit every taste. With amenities such as zip wires, paddleboards, kayaks, and an onsite farm providing an authentic rural experience, every moment here is designed to enhance your stay and create lasting memories. And after you’ve worked up an appetite, dine al fresco at the teepee bar and kitchen, where regular events feature live music and culinary delights.

Your dog is welcome too, ensuring no family member is left behind. Experience a slice of bucolic bliss where every detail is tailored to your relaxation and enjoyment.

Conveniently located, yet irresistibly captivating, it’s a destination that’s easy to reach and hard to leave.

Cabins from £695 per night +44 (0)1367 254 260; thelakesbyyoo.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 113

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE LAMB INN

SHIPTON-UNDER-WYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE

The third venture from Peter Creed and Tom Noest, who also own The Bell Inn Langford and run Little Bell at Soho Farmhouse, this is exactly what you might expect: a lovely, modern country pub with rooms that showcases the duo’s passion for classic British food. Relax in the cosy bar, or the large beer garden in the summer, before sitting down to eat in the restaurant. Tom heads up the kitchen, preparing traditional favourites (fish and chips, double cheeseburgers, steaks) alongside interesting, simple dishes that celebrate seasonal ingredients, offal and game.

There are ten comfortable rooms with beamed ceilings, antique furniture and ensuite walk-in showers (the biggest also have roll-top baths) – they make an ideal sanctuary after a day exploring the Cotswolds. The pub itself is in the pretty village of Shipton-UnderWychwood and there is plenty to discover nearby, from Burford and Chipping Norton to the Batsford Arboretum and Cotswold Farm Park. The Lamb can also arrange all kinds of pursuit days, from deer stalking and pigeon shooting to coarse fishing and simulated game.

Doubles from £89 +44 (0)1993 832116; thelambshipton.com

THE LYGON ARMS

BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Originally a 14th century coaching inn, The Lygon Arms in picturesque Broadway has 86 unique guestrooms and suites – all cosy and traditional in feel – and is located in the heart of the Cotswolds. Over the years it has played host to many famous guests: King Charles I met here with his supporters, giving his name to the impressive ‘Charles I Suite’ complete with four-poster bed and many original features. Further proving the hotel’s universal appeal, Oliver Cromwell also occupied a room here immediately before his victory at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Relax next to a roaring fire in one of the cosy lounges or book a table in the outstanding Grill or the relaxed Tavern, both venues overseen by the exceptionally talented chef James Martin (of Saturday Kitchen fame). A delectable afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the Russell Room, or you can unwind in The Lygon Spa, which has a Victorian galleried swimming pool and a range of rejuvenating and blissful beauty treatments on offer. There are four EV charging points too, so eco-minded guests are well-catered for.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk 114 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE COTSWOLDS

NO. 131

CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This is the hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, fashionable on the inside. Spread across three Georgian townhouses on The Promenade, there are 36 fabulous guestrooms, with quirky detailing, divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold statement fabrics, modern British art, and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. Then there’s hangouts, hideaways and sun-dappled terraces aplenty with outdoor bars and al fresco dining. Streetside elegance abounds at 131 Terrace Restaurant and its tasty food is complemented downstairs by the relaxed buzz of Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with its resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefully sourced food, menus range from a fixed price weekday menu to decadent suppers and the best roast lunch on Sundays. Don’t miss Yoku, the hotel’s fantastic Japanese restaurant, where sushi meets style and fashion meets food, which serves mouth-watering Asian cuisine (order the ‘Octopus Kingdom’ with its incredible array of sashimi).

From £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com

THE PAINSWICK

STROUD, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

A glorious combination of eclecticism, heavenly food and creature comforts, all set in one of the Cotswolds’ prettiest towns, this picture-perfect Palladian house was renovated and relaunched by owner, The Calcot Collection, in spring 2016, and has been transformed into a relaxing, chic haven with ace cuisine and fabulous views over the Slad valley. The Calcot Collection is master of the art of creating laidback luxury, having developed Calcot & Spa (p110) and the Lord Crewe Arms (p144) at Blanchland. Now it has worked its magic on this 18th century mansion, conjuring an arty, subtly funky feel in the sitting rooms and furnishing the 17 bedrooms in pale, soothing tones, with characteristic attention to detail – splash out on George’s Suite, with its fabulous four-poster bed or, for families and groups of friends, the new three-bedroom cottage. When it comes to food, Jamie McCullum has come up with an inventive and wonderfully seasonal à la carte and tasting menus in The Restaurant.

Breakfast is a delight, too – as is the sumptuous Painswick afternoon tea in one of the cosy lounges or on the terrace with valley views.

Doubles from £188 +44 (0)1452 813688; thepainswick.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 115

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE RECTORY

CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE

This popular Grade II-listed Georgian country house hotel and restaurant has 18 pared-back but beautiful bedrooms: 15 in the main house, plus three in a separate cottage. All are kitted out with contemporary furniture, beds with luxury velvet headboards in shades such as mustard or navy, and roll top baths with luxurious Bramley products in the bathroom. Here, all the little details have been considered, from the smart TVs and art collection to the honesty bar that’s stocked with brandy and whisky. Downstairs, two inviting sitting rooms have sink-in sofas, board games, paperbacks and, in winter, a roaring fire.

Jake Simpson, former head chef at Soho’s Bocca di Lupo (he was also trained by Quo Vadis’ Jeremy Lee) cooks up delicious seasonal flavours. A particularly lovely spot to book in the summer when guests can make the most of the sprawling English garden and the heated swimming pool that is open April to October. Across the road you’ll find the sister pub, The Potting Shed, a popular locals’ haunt with a mean Sunday roast and good array of local ales.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com

THE SWAN

ASCOTT-UNDER-WYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE

This 16th-century timbered inn with inglenook fireplaces, reclaimed wooden floors and a large central bar, is part of the Lionhearth group of Cotswolds pubs (alongside The Chequers in Churchill and The Black Horse in Salford).

You’ll find 11 dashingly pretty bedrooms with handcrafted wallpaper, exposed stone walls and statement bed heads. The newest addition is The Cygnet suite, which is located in a separate building overlooking Ascott-underWychwood village and features a rolltop bath.

In the charming timber-and-stone dining room, striking Lewis & Wood wallpaper and art by Keith Tyson create an intimate setting, while the garden terrace has a barbecue, pizza oven and wooden planters – the ideal spot for a pepperoni pizza and a pint of locally brewed Hawkstone pilsner on a warm summer’s evening. Other excellent fare from head chef Jack Sencherey Evans includes the Sunday roast and dishes such as 28-day dry aged steak, Goan king prawn curry, and wild mushroom and orzo risotto. Breakfast is a delight too, with porridge and orchard fruits, sourdough crumpets with Chipping Norton honey, or a full Cotswold breakfast to choose from.

Doubles from £95 + 44 (0)1993 832332; lionhearth.co.uk 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE COTSWOLDS

THORNBURY CASTLE GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Thornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed and Princess Mary, later Mary I, visited regularly.

After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture, the ornate carved ceilings and tapestry wall-hangings.

Spiral staircases lead to 27 unique, romantic bed chambers, many with coronet or fourposter beds. Their baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well-heated with opulent bathrooms. The magnificent Tudor walled gardens have been restored to their full glory and comprise formal areas and a living statue of Henry VIII, along with a kitchen garden, Tudor herb garden, wildflower meadow and heritage orchard within the castle grounds. Thornbury’s fine dining options include its three AA Rosette restaurant and the atmospheric Tudor Hall and Baron’s Sitting Room, which are perfect for a private supper. Best of all, it’s an authentic, thundering castle.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk

THYME

SOUTHROP MANOR ESTATE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Paradise in glorious Cotswold countryside, Thyme offers botanically inspired bedrooms in a collection of stone houses and cottages, decorated with Bertioli fabrics and wallpapers that are hand-painted by founder, Caryn Hibbert. Family-run, Thyme is far more than just a hotel with thoughtful touches at every corner. The food – overseen by culinary director Charlie Hibbert – is its raison d’être, with first-class chefs, a highly regarded cookery school and exceptional produce from its own farm and kitchen gardens. Choose to eat in The Swan, Thyme’s charming 17th-century former bakery turned village pub, or The Ox Barn, where just-picked ingredients dictate the menus. There’s also Baa bar in the old lambing sheds for coffee and cocktails, and salads at Orchid House, part of the tranquil Meadow Spa. Restorative treatments take place in Meadow Cottage or the Botanical Bothy (here, the signature ritual includes breathwork, pressure point techniques, and a herbal bath for deep relaxation). Borrow bicycles or wellies to explore the countryside, sign up for floristry and painting classes, or work up an appetite with games of tennis on the estate’s court.

Doubles from £420 +44 (0)1367 850174; thyme.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 117

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

TUDOR FARMHOUSE HOTEL CLEARWELL, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In the heart of the Forest of Dean in the magnificent Wye Valley, surrounded by ancient woodland, Tudor Farmhouse Hotel is an utterly chic 20-room boutique retreat.

All ancient wood beams and crackling fires, the 17th century farmhouse and its converted outbuildings house luxurious rooms and particularly sumptuous beds, most with a freestanding tub. Its 14 acres of wildflower meadows are a protected site of Special Scientific Interest, due to its rare plants, and foraging trips are one of many nature activities on offer from the hotel’s expert team. Head chef Gavin Roberts champions organic and hyper-local produce – try his fantastic 20-mile menu, which at dinner features wild garlic soup and roasted monkfish – including vegetables and herbs from the hotel grounds.

Sunday lunch is also a real draw, and breakfasts are showstopping – a real gastronomic getaway.

If all that indulgence leaves you craving some fresh air, whether it’s canoeing on the river Wye, local salmon fishing, visiting the nearby Clearwell Caves, endless bucolic walks, or wildlife safaris organised by the hotel, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

WHATLEY MANOR HOTEL & SPA MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

PHOTOS:© FREDDIE ELLAMS

This beautiful, Grade II-listed Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens, makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a grown-up, gourmet getaway. The hotel is close to the market towns of Malmesbury and Tetbury, as well as King Charles’ Highgrove and verdant Westonbirt, the National Arboretum. Serene, cosy and dog-friendly, it has 23 elegant rooms and suites, a cinema, and large spa, featuring an hydrotherapy pool, a thermal suite with sauna and a Himalayan salt cabin. Executive Chef Ricki Weston showcases British ingredients with innovative flair, earning the hotel’s Dining Room a prestigious Michelin star.

Guests can savour exquisite tasting menus, expertly paired with wines, and experience heritage cooking techniques first-hand.

Additionally, Grey’s offers a more relaxed dining experience with a neighbourhood eatery vibe. Committed to sustainability, Whatley Manor has earned silver accreditation with EarthCheck and a Green Michelin star, with ambitious targets to reduce their impact on the planet.

Rooms from £379 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com 118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE WILD RABBIT KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

A beautiful old inn built from golden Cotswold stone, The Wild Rabbit is both a trendy hotspot and a haven of eco-elegance, all powered by renewable energy and part of the neighbouring Daylesford Estate. The moment you step inside the pub with rooms, the mellow space invites instant relaxation with its open fires, comfy sofas and armchairs. It is sophisticated, convivial and informal and the 13 rooms are sanctums of rustic, low-key luxury (most are doubles, but the familystyle Hedgehog room can sleep up to two small children as well). Downstairs, you can tuck into the pub’s fine dining seasonal menu, which celebrates the best organic local produce – most of which comes from Daylesford and its sister farms. Just a few fields away is the estate, which guests can explore via its walking trails, which take between 40 minutes and two hours. There’s also the farm shop, café, deli and Bamford Wellness Spa, offering massages and facials, plus yoga and pilates classes. Guests can then return to The Wild Rabbit to meet, eat, party, chill and – if they want – bed down for the night in great comfort. +44 (0)1608 658389; thewildrabbit.co.uk

WILD THYME & HONEY

PHOTOS:© FREDDIE ELLAMS

AMPNEY CRUCIS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Set in the picturesque Cotswolds village of Ampney Crucis near Cirencester, Wild Thyme & Honey has been restored from a 16th-century inn into a relaxing retreat.

On the banks of the babbling Ampney Brook, there are 24 comfortable bedrooms (many with roll top tubs), where exposed Cotswold stone, natural wood floors and lovely woolly textures blend seamlessly with a New York loft-style look and thoughtfully designed airy spaces that let nature in. Take a seat in the hotel’s village pub and restaurant, The Crown, to feast on their award-winning breakfast menu, enjoy a traditional afternoon tea with sweet treats and savoury delights, or hunker down with a book and make yourself at home.

Borrow wellies for a ramble or visit a National Trust property – Bibury, Lodge Park and Chedworth Roman Villa are nearby. Come evening, sip on expertly crafted cocktails or dabble in the world of wine with a tasting from the bar’s enomatic machine. Menus roll with the seasons and celebrate the finest British produce – expect elevated classics alongside dishes inspired by global cuisine. Dogs are welcome too.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1285 851806; wildthymeandhoney.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 119

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25 Wasdale Valley in the Lake District National Park is another idyllic swimming spot

theLIST

Five Places to Wild Swim ELLIE SMITH finds the best places for a dip en plein air – in the UK

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Kailpot Crag ULLSWATER, CUMBRIA

If you want to escape the Lake District crowds head to Kailpot Crag on the east side, characterised by its ancient, gnarly foliage.

Take the short footpath from Sandwick, then brave the cliff jump to enjoy a swim in the deep, clear water. It’s particularly magical at sunset.

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FELTHAM

A secluded lake in West London, this is where in-the-know swimmers go to train for triathlons, with a 250m or 450m loop available. But it’s also an idyllic spot for a simple dip, renowned for its bright, clear water and serene environment.

Blue Lagoon PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES

A turquoise lagoon surrounded by rugged rocks, this picturesque stretch of water wouldn’t be out of place in Iceland – yet it’s actually in Wales. You can expect

The Haven

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relatively calm waters too, thanks to the sheltered nature of the lagoon.

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5

Grantchester Meadows CAMBRIDGESHIRE

Follow in the footsteps of Lord Byron and take a dip in the waters of Grantchester Meadows in Cambridge, where you’ll find two kilometres of river to swim in.

Afterwards, enjoy a picnic on the grassland, or a hot drink at the Orchard Tea Garden.

Loch an Eilein

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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SCOTLAND

Take a trip to Loch an Eilein in the Cairngorms National Park for a quintessential Highland experience: glittering waters surrounded by pine tree forests and dramatic mountains, plus a ruined 13th-century castle – believed to have been the property of Alexander Stewart, the Earl of Buchan.

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theWEEKENDER

Model and charity ambassador Amelia Windsor shares her essentials for a dreamy weekend

Favourite place to escape to on the weekend? Nothing beats going home to

Cambridge to sleep in my bed and cycle around the city – I am lucky it is only a short train ride away. If I am in London I love to walk around Clissold Park and go to Growing Communities market in Stoke Newington.

Who are you spending this weekend with, and what will you be doing with them?

With my friends – for example, I am going to see The Lord of The Rings with some at the Albert Hall. The Philharmonic Orchestra are playing the score – I can’t wait.

How do you like your eggs? Boiled, with rye bread soldiers and olive oil.

And how do you take your coffee?

Americano with hot, frothy cashew milk and some cinnamon on top. I love Upraising Bright Mood coffee that has Reishi mushrooms to reduce stress and L-theanine to prevent the caffeine crash.

Are you be going out on your perfect Saturday night? Yes – for example, this

weekend I am going to a new bar called Chiave in Shoreditch with some friends for drinks and maybe a dance.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Amelia; Bright Mood coffee; Everybody Needs Beauty by Samantha Walton; eggs and soldiers

What’s your favourite cocktail, if you’re going out? A Paloma – tequila is my

absolute favourite.

And if you’re staying in? I would cook brown

rice pasta with homemade cavolo nero pesto, and rewatch High Fidelity with Zoë Kravitz.

What’s your perfect weekend outfit?

If I was going out, I’d have to wear comfy shoes for dancing, usually with black jeans and a sexy top. If I am staying in, I am straight into my Stripe & Stare pyjamas as soon as the sun goes down.

If you go for a walk, where would you go? Definitely at the seaside!

I would love to explore Hastings. They have a great music scene, too, so perhaps a gig after the walk.

Will you be doing any exercise? Pilates, or barre at Barrecore.

Or a spin class if I am feeling extra energetic.

Is there anything else that would make a perfect weekend for you? Sunshine and dancing to great music

with my friends. n

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

DOWN TIME WHAT ARE YOU READING? Everybody Needs Beauty

by Samantha Walton - exploring how nature heals us.

AND WATCHING? The Taste of Things with Juliette Binoche – it looks incredibly romantic.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25 Cannock Chase,

by BirdsOnline / Getty

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MID COUNTRY

From rolling fields and lush hidden valleys, to vibrant hubs of contemporary culture, you’ll find a rich mix of nature and metropolitan cool COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 123

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE BARNSDALE OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Converted from a centuries-old hunting lodge in 1990, The Barnsdale has 46 individually decorated bedrooms with stunning countryside vistas and an inviting private courtyard, as well as a plethora of original features including flagstone hallways, sash windows and cast-iron stoves.

In 2022, the hotel – on the Exton Estate in the picturesque county of Rutland – became the latest fabulous addition to the Signet Collection, who also owns The Mitre Hampton Court (p84) and The Retreat at Elcot Park (p86). The quality of the rooms, food and location represents superb value for money and locally sourced produce forms the basis of the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by the passionately talented kitchen brigade. As well as the elegant 1760 Brasserie and four private dining spaces, the Rod Room and Orangery are perfect spots to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee. Looking for even more privacy? Rutland Retreats are the hotel’s two and three-bed self-catering cottages just a stone’s throw away, whilst the brand new events space ‘The Barn’ offers the perfect venue for weddings and an evening of entertainment.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalerutland.com

FAWSLEY HALL HOTEL & SPA FAWSLEY, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

A historic country estate just a 30-minute drive from Northampton, Fawsley Hall Hotel & Spa, part of the Hand Picked Hotels collection, has a rich history and many stories to tell. Its formal gardens and parkland were designed by Capability Brown in 1760, and over the centuries it has played host to many esteemed guests, including Queen Elizabeth I. Boasting 60 rooms, the hotel is spread across the Tudor, Georgian and Victorian wings of the house, each with spectacular views of the Fawsley estate. Guests have a variety of dining options during their stay, from sitting down for classic afternoon tea in the Tudor Great Hall, to enjoying light lunches in the Tudor Bar. The award-winning Cedar Restaurant, with head chef Joe Gould at the helm, offers modern British fare in an atmospheric setting adorned with wall lanterns and antique-style furniture.

For those looking to relax and recharge, Fawsley Hall offers guests a health club and recently refurbished spa. Drift between the Himalayan salt sauna and the herbal aromatic heat room before a soak in the outdoor hydropool (there’s also an indoor lap pool). Fawsley Hall is also proudly dog-friendly. +44 (0) 1642 706606 handpickedhotels.co.uk/fawsleyhall 124 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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MID COUNTRY

THE GRAND HOTEL BIRMINGHAM

BIRMINGHAM, WEST MIDLANDS

Birmingham’s original grande dame has awakened. Following a £50 million makeover, which saw the hotel closed for nearly 20 years, The Grand Hotel relaunched in 2021 – and is back as glorious as ever. First opened by Isaac Horton in 1879 and designed by Thomson Plevins, the hotel has welcomed rock stars and royalty alongside hosting fabulous events in the breathtaking Grand Ballroom. The 185 rooms and suites are equally elegant – particularly the jaw-dropping Penthouse Suite with a super king four-poster bed and luxurious marble bathroom, not to mention its own bar, openplan dining and living room. The restaurant and bar have their unique identities too. Parisianchic Madeleine, with double-height windows, sparkling chandeliers and rich interiors, is one of the most recognisable bars in town, serving a glamorous menu of cocktails and champagne as well as afternoon tea. Isaac’s Restaurant boasts an informal New York-meets-Brum concept, serving exceptional steak and seafood alongside brasserie classics. The staff are delightful and there’s an inclusive atmosphere to boot.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1218 279600; thegrandhotelbirmingham.co.uk

HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last halfcentury, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, opened it in 1980.

Contented but never complacent, it offers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of executive chef Aaron Patterson and head chefs Charlie Jones and James Stone (the hotel has held a Michelin star for over 40 years – the record in the UK), and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, The Croquet Suite is a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel.

There is also a swimming pool, tennis court, croquet lawn and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s aficionados return to their haven, where loyal key staff – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up over 200 years of service between them.

Doubles from £400 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 125

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM

Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre with a private car park and secluded garden.

One of the highest rated hotels in the region, it was purpose built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses, and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Six have private terraces that access the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond.

In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. Within the hotel, Hart’s Kitchen is an intimate restaurant with two AA Rosettes for culinary excellence. Chef Lukasz Jaworski uses top-quality ingredients, often locally sourced, in simple striking combinations: for instance, pan-fried seabass, blade of beef or wild mushroom risotto, followed by Hart’s famous warm chocolate pudding. Owner Tim Hart has a passion for wine and personally selects every bottle on the list.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk

WHITE HART HOTEL LINCOLN, LINCOLNSHIRE

Set in Uphill Lincoln, a short stroll from the city’s iconic cathedral and medieval castle, this newly refurbished 14th-century hotel is exactly where you want to be, surrounded by history, heritage, and a bustling independent quarter.

Stay in beautifully appointed rooms with velvet bedheads and cosy throws (for cathedral views and more space, book the Brownlow or King Edward suites). Head chef Chris Punter oversees the food throughout, which nods to artisanal Lincolnshire producers while taking inspiration from around the world.

There’s something to suit all tastes at Antlers Restaurant where dishes range from pan seared duck breast to tempting beef wellington.

For those wanting a lighter bite, there’s the Colonnade Cocktail Lounge at the heart of the hotel for small plates (short rib croquettes, wild mushroom arancini), charcuterie boards and cheese platters. The best spot for a nightcap is the Gibson Club Bar, an intimate space named after legendary wing commander Guy Gibson from the Dambusters 617 Squadron. Here, guests can enjoy signature cocktails such as the No Man’s Land – a combination of bourbon, maple syrup and bitters.

Doubles from £119, B&B +44 (0)1522 526222; whitehart-lincoln.co.uk 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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theLIST

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Five Outdoor Theatres

Pack a blanket: OLIVIA EMILY finds the al fresco venues well worth booking a ticket for

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © LUCY MACDONALD; © DAVID JENSEN / FEAST CREATIVE

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Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre

Dating back to 1932, this is one of the nation’s oldest and largest outdoor theatres, hidden in the middle of one of the capital’s most beautiful parks. Its season runs from March to September each year. openairtheatre.com

Brighton Open Air Theatre BRIGHTON

This 400-seat amphitheatre was founded by the late Adrian Bunting, a local playwright and performer who set his mind and heart to opening Brighton’s first outdoor venue when he was diagnosed with pancreatic

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CORNWALL

Top-class theatre with world-class views... Don’t mind if we do. Perched on a rocky granite outcrop into Porthcurno Bay, this is a must-visit for theatre enthusiasts, hosting over 200 live performances every year (from Easter to October). minack.com

LONDON

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The Minack

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cancer. It finally opened in 2015, and has been part of the city’s cultural fabric ever since. brightonopenairtheatre.co.uk

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Brownsea Open Air Theatre DORSET

Hop on a boat from Poole Quay to Brownsea Island to see Shakespeare performed amid magical surroundings. The magic doesn’t end when the curtain falls: you get to sail back to Poole under the stars. brownsea-theatre.co.uk

Grosvenor Park Open Air Theatre CHESTER

An intimate outdoor auditorium with a summer-only season. Alongside captivating theatre, visitors can enjoy outdoor cinema screenings, comedy gigs and live music, with refreshments in the form of crisp beers, frozen cocktails, and wood-fired pizzas. storyhouse.com

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EAST ANGLIA

Prepare to be swept away by thrilling landscapes both ancient and modern, from bustling ports to thriving oyster beds, vast deserted beaches, and throngs of wildlife

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Quiet Before the Storm, near Thriplow, Cambridgeshire, England, by Holly Smith. Young Landscape Photographer of the Year, Classic View, 2023. LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of north Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and out to Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The family-owned hotel, built in the 1920s, has been sensitively modernised in recent years and now has 60 rooms, all unfussy and seaside-fresh, with crisp white linens on comfortable beds. Many have balconies, or look out onto the southfacing garden; others come with their own patio. Panoramic vistas of the stunning salt marsh landscape can be seen from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. When guests aren’t out walking the north Norfolk Coast Path, exploring beaches or visiting one of the charming nearby towns, there are two spacious lounges for relaxing. The indoor pool, steam room and sauna are, of course, another big draw for repeat guests, too.

Doubles from £386 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeney-hotel.co.uk

CLEY WINDMILL

CLEY NEXT THE SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain.

The singer James Blunt used to live here and Elizabeth Taylor filmed Conspirator at the property in 1949. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (it’s birdwatching country) as you come home to this beautifully restored windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories flood back as you climb higher and higher, finally mounting the ladder to the Wheel Room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular dining room with a blazing fire and antiques, while the cosy lounge, complete with bar, is part of the original 1713 warehouse. There are ten rooms to choose from, two of which, Dovecote and the new Old Cart Shed, are self-catering cottages in the old stables. The three circular bedrooms in the tower itself have bathrooms ingeniously fitted into challenging nooks and crannies. All are charming and bursting with character, with views over the waving reed beds to the sea.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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EAST ANGLIA

CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

This calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, sits just five minutes’ drive from Sandringham and 20 minutes from the amazing stretches of Norfolk beaches. Inside, a lovely stone floor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of fresh garden flowers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar.

The Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed with locally sourced dishes such as pressed beetroot with goats’ curd followed by baked hake with parsnip velouté and rhubarb crumble tart. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between the house (the top floor rooms are small but charming); the garden wing next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa; and five orchard cabins with outside baths among the trees. The house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. Afternoon tea is a delight here; afterwards, walk it off with a swim in the indoor pool or exploring the 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk

THE DABBLING DUCK GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK

In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on owner-manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer, whose prints decorate some of the walls.

As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration: wooden floors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books. There are eight bedrooms – including three garden rooms – plus the recently refurbished Duckling Cottage, a few doors away, which sleeps six. Sally and Mark have also renovated the house next door, adding four spacious bedrooms with roll-top baths and walk-in showers. The pub has a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. The terrific food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef, Dale Smith. There is a beautiful oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner, an outside bar and a kitchen serving street food and wood-fired pizza.

The barn opens up onto the pub garden, which has a play area for little ones.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 131

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THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the help of designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ironically, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ Inside, the 16 bedrooms are decked out with sumptuous furnishings, printed wallpaper and traditional dark wood furniture, contrasting with the edgy, sexy art on the walls by all the big names: Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, Lucian Freud... the list goes on. In the bathrooms, the marble was sourced in Egypt from derelict mansions in Alexandria. The hotel’s eclectic look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled flint building itself, which sits inside deer-filled Gunton Park. In the kitchen Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open fire that guests tuck in to at sharing tables – the seafood and Cromer crab are all caught by local fishermen and fresh organic produce is sourced from the hotel’s very own walled garden. If you stay in Ellis, don’t miss the old prints by the dressing table – but maybe not if you objected to Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk

THE HARPER

LANGHAM, NORFOLK

Located in the pretty village of Langham, a mile inland from the coast at Blakeney in Norfolk, The Harper is a contemporary boutique hotel that serves as a peaceful country escape. Housed in a brick-andflint barn that was once part of Langham Glass, unfussy yet refined interiors nod to its industrial past with flashes of iron, copper, oak and slate. The spacious rooms come with modern four-poster beds, leather armchairs, underfloor heating and lovely unique touches, including complimentary pre-mixed house cocktails in the fridge on arrival. At the heart of The Harper is The Yard, for al-fresco dining and evenings around the fire pit. There’s also a speakeasystyle bar for drinks, Ivy’s lounge with arched windows and a wood-burning stove, and Stanley’s restaurant for fine dining without the frippery. Head to the on-site spa for a massage or book an exclusive-use pool slot to luxuriate in blissful solitude. At The Den you can unwind with its pool table and film screenings. Alternatively, pre-order a picnic hamper and make your way to Holkham Beach, which is only a short drive away.

Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1328 805000; theharper.co.uk 132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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EAST ANGLIA

HUSK

THORINGTON, SUFFOLK

Three years ago, chefs Joey O’Hare and Katy Taylor bought a farm on the outskirts of Thorington village and began running a Friday and Saturday-night supper club for 16 guests in a converted barn (it’s usually a sell-out). Then, at the end of last year they added four rooms, so that after tucking into a three-course feast inspired by the landscape (think local game, foraged flavours, fermented, pickled and preserved fruit and vegetables) paired with organic wines, guests can simply stroll across the courtyard to a renovated cow barn to bed.

Original beams, exposed bricks and stable doors are teamed with upcycled secondhand furniture finds, mid-century and contemporary artwork. Arrive early, in time for a dip in the natural pool, a stint in the eco-sauna, and perhaps a stroll to local pub, The Star at Wenhaston. In the morning, the Scandinavian-influenced breakfast is a ‘Suffolk egg plate’ with just-laid eggs from the pair’s rescue chickens, sourdough, and organic yoghurt with a damson and apple compote, made using fruits from the farm.

A glorious foodie stay in rural Suffolk.

Doubles from £275 +44 (0)7733 262797; huskthorington.co.uk

THE SUN INN DEDHAM, ESSEX

The Sun Inn on the Essex-Suffolk border is a charming base from which to explore pretty Dedham Vale. Rent a boat on the River Stour or borrow bikes from the pub – staff will even make you a picnic to take with you. The bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pub-like with beams and wooden floors, open fires and an elm bar that’s usually lined with locals and their dogs. There are magazines and travel books to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into, plus seven individually decorated bedrooms with centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. The restaurant’s seasonal food is big on flavour and inspired by great local produce: think homemade pasta, excellent fish from east coast day boats, local meat, fruit and veg and game in season. Plus, local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare treats. In 2023, the inn celebrated its 20th anniversary under the ownership of Baker Hospitality, which also owns The White Hart Inn on Mersea Island (p134).

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 133

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TALBOOTH HOUSE & SPA DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale in Constable country, Talbooth House & Spa (formerly Maison Talbooth) has established itself as the ‘go-to’ spa in Essex. This lovely Victorian house is a super sophisticated place to stay and includes Jack’s Bar plus the spa facility (complete with Elemis products) with a swimming pool, hot tub and outdoor sauna and six treatment rooms.

The hotel is an oasis of calm, where you can step back, relax and indulge. Its 12 literary-themed bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of their nearby restaurant, Talbooth Restaurant.

Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952, and whose portfolio also includes milsoms Dedham, Idle Waters, The Pier at Harwich, Deck 1853, and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall. As with all their properties, dogs are welcome to stay. Breakfast can be served in your room or at milsoms Dedham, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from the three AA Rosettes Talbooth restaurant, a half-timbered building with a film set location on the river Stour. In all, the hotel, spa and restaurant make for a winning combination – and just 55 minutes from London to nearby train station Manningtree.

Doubles from £360 +44 (0)1206 322795; milsomhotels.com

THE WHITE HART INN MERSEA ISLAND, ESSEX

This pub with rooms reopened after a nineyear closure in June 2022 following a sevenmonth refurbishment. It is part of the same family as The Sun Inn, Dedham (p133) and Church Street Tavern, Colchester. On England’s most easterly inhabited island, it sits opposite the church green and minutes from the beach. Six cosseting, colourful rooms (one has a sea view, others look over the green) all have super king beds, huge walk-in showers and contemporary local art. The seasonally changing menu features local ingredients: oysters and seafood, fruit and vegetables grown on the island and meat from East Anglia. Highlights are day boat Mersea skate with samphire, Jerusalem artichoke, caper and butter; wild mushroom ravioli with black cabbage; wild duck with mulberries; and Sunday roasts. Relax in the snug or head out to explore, from beach strolls to a circuit of the island (around four hours), boat trips to watersports and bird watching. There also bikes to borrow and car charging on site. Do check the hotel website before setting off – high tide cuts the island off from the mainland once a day.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1206 583212; whitehartinnmersea.co.uk 134 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE NORTH With its proper pubs, cutting-edge cultural hot spots and rugged landscapes, a trip to the north of England will revive mind, body and soul

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Dales Mist, Ilkley, West Yorkshire, England, by Martin Priestley. LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

A lovely place to stay, eat and relax, close to the Eden Valley. Part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn is owned

by Charlie Lowther who is also behind nearby Askham Hall and The Queen’s Head Askham (p146). Two summers ago, a fire broke out here which meant an extensive refurbishment by the Lowthers’ cousin Totty Lowther. However, regulars have no need to worry. The George and Dragon still has the same authentic look and convivial feel. The rustic bar, with its woodburning stoves and banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions, is a delightful place to while away time. And on sunny days, there is no better spot than at a chunky, weathered table in the courtyard.

The menus are inspired by the estate-grown and reared produce. Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy cooking one craves in the countryside. There are 11 comfortable, renovated bedrooms, with five more on the way, and guests should take advantage of its impressive fishing and stalking opportunities. Families and wellbehaved dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

GILPIN HOTEL & LAKE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Family-run and fabulous. In 1987, John and Christine Cunliffe bought John’s grandmother’s 1901 home and created a fivebedroom B&B. Joined by their son Barney and his wife Zoë in 2001, the Cunliffes have created a haven of calm, style and comfort, a year-round retreat across two estates.

Nowadays, Gilpin Hotel has an Arts & Crafts charm mixed with contemporary style; lots of luxury, but zero pretentiousness. Wellness is a big focus, with a gorgeous Spa Space for all guests to enjoy. Twelve of the rooms have hot tubs, and ten Spa Lodges and Spa Suites have hot tubs and private spas.

A mile away is Gilpin Lake House. Set in 100 acres of private grounds, six rooms share an indoor pool, sauna, outdoor hot tubs and spa treatment rooms. As for the food, you’ll be bowled over. It’s home to Michelin-starred SOURCE at Gilpin Hotel, built around local ingredients, and relaxed Pan-Asian restaurant Gilpin Spice. Afternoon tea can also be enjoyed within the scenic surrounds of the spectacular Lake House. In short, a blissful hotel filled with love and laughter – even the resident alpacas look happy.

Rooms from £260 +44 (0)1539 488818; thegilpin.co.uk 138 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE NORTH

THE GRAND, YORK YORK, YORKSHIRE

Originally built in 1906 as a ‘Palace of Business’ for the North Eastern Railway Company, The Grand, York, lives up to its name, retaining much of its Edwardian splendour. With its city centre location, unique experiential packages and exquisite food and beverage offering, the hotel provides the perfect all-around stay. There are 207 luxury suites and spacious rooms that occupy the two main wings. Guests can experience the original building with its high ceilings, large windows and architectural quirks or the contemporary wing, a clever blend of heritage meets modern simplicity. The spa, housed in the former vaults, offers a blissful escape, while diners can eat in three AA Rosette fine-dining restaurant Legacy, with a tasting menu focused on seasonality, locality and sustainability, or modern British cuisine in AA Rosette Awarded The Rise Restaurant – both are sure to delight epicureans. Don’t miss the awardwinning afternoon tea either. In the evening, start with a cocktail on the terrace and finish off the night with a whisky at the 1906 Bar. And, as if all that wasn’t enough, The Grand has an award-winning cookery school, too.

From £169 +44 (0)1904 380038; thegrandyork.co.uk

HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM

The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk (p139), but also the archetypal country-house hotel at Headlam Hall, located between Barnard Castle and the A1 at Scotch Corner. It helps that the hall is a fine-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens, you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and rose borders. Vegetables, herbs and fruit are also grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, the exquisitely proportioned space has wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms and suites (plus a recently added stylish self-catering apartment with private hot tub) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own nine-hole golf course, fabulous spa and classic cars available for daily hire in the summer, this is a hotel that absolutely everyone will enjoy... even the most dedicated of petrolheads.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 139

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE HIGHFIELD HOUSE DRIFFIELD, YORKSHIRE

Owned and run by interior designers Andy and Lindsey Lampard, this former merchant’s house on the outskirts of Driffield has been given a characterful makeover – think antiques, contemporary furniture, and bespoke fabrics and wallpapers. Each of the eight suites comes with its own quirky backstory.

Room ‘1610’ is all Jacobean opulence with 610 hidden Batman symbols in the wallpaper (their son is an avid fan); Yes Mallard has train carriage- inspired details; while Sketch is based on the eponymous London restaurant (a former favourite haunt of the owners). You’ll find handmade Harrison Spinks mattresses, Bramley bath products and a complimentary pantry in the corridor with Yorkshire-made treats. The two AA Rosette 1864 restaurant opened last year and excels in modern British food: locally grown, foraged and seasonal produce drives the five-course tasting and à la carte menus. There’s also a children’s menu and kitchen garden trail for them to explore.

Light lunches are served in the cosy Think Pink parlour; the library bar is the perfect spot for cocktails. Keep eyes peeled for the monthly Lunar Club music and comedy nights too.

Suites from £150 +44 (0)1377 256231; thehighfieldhouse.com

HOTEL VICTORIA

ROBIN HOOD’S BAY, YORKSHIRE

Set in the picturesque fishing village of Robin’s Hood Bay near Whitby, this newly refurbished hotel has some of the most spectacular coastal views in North Yorkshire.

While away the hours on the newly created covered terrace in the cliff top garden, which looks out over the village and out to sea (the best rooms also have their own balconies).

Indulge in a quintessential Yorkshire afternoon tea, with a selection of sweet and savoury treats. Then, before dinner, enjoy a signature cocktail in the newly named Osborne’s Restaurant & Lounge Bar – the sunsets from here are breath taking.

Seasonal dishes include braised pork belly with crackling crumb and spring colcannon, and the more traditional North Sea cod in champagne batter. There’s also the adjoining Loxley pub, a relaxed, traditionally inspired bar that has Yorkshire ales and a menu to suit all tastes. Small plates such as beef cheek croquettes, crispy whitebait and salt ‘n’ pepper squid complement more hearty fare – and it’s the ideal place to cosy up after days spent on the beach or hiking the North York Moors.

Doubles from £109 +44 (0)1947 880205; victoriarhb.com 140 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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LANGDALE CHASE WINDERMERE

Fresh from a top-to-toe refurbishment, this glorious Grade II-listed manor house sits right on the shore of Lake Windermere, surrounded by four acres of gardens. Split between the main house and a separate lakehouse, the 30 nature-inspired rooms and suites have Ikat wallpapers, botanical cushions, and marble bathrooms. The most romantic is The Boathouse, with a rooftop terrace and copper tub. Original features remain throughout the house, from the carved staircase and reclaimed fireplace in the hall to the octagonal turret lounges and stained-glass light well in some of the suites. The views are sensational, especially from the Dining Room restaurant and the wraparound terrace – just the spot for afternoon tea or watching the sun dip behind the Langdale Pikes. Do as much as you wish or simply kick back and relax.

There’s also an intimate cinema, a reading room, and a sitting room where the all-day menu is served (think New England lobster rolls and club sandwiches). The food – Herdwick lamb, regional cheeses, Fell-caught fish – celebrates British ingredients and feels perfectly in keeping with the surroundings.

From £390 +44(0)1539 432201; langdalechase.co.uk

LINTHWAITE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Linthwaite House is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understated, elegant, and professional, but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the views over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, are simply unbeatable. The bedrooms are the last word in lakeside luxury and, for those wanting a more back-to-nature experience, there’s also a tarn with a secluded cabin and six Fell Suites in the wooded grounds. Back in the hotel, you’ll find a crackling fire in the hall’s carved mahogany fireplace, beyond which beckons The Bar & Conservatory offering a culinary experience blending sophistication with charm. Its inspired menus (all-day dining, snacks, drinks etc) ensure flavourful and seasonal offerings. Guests can also dine in Henrock, overseen by much admired, multiMichelin-starred chef Simon Rogan who makes sublime use of the freshest Cumbrian ingredients from his farm in Cartmel, known as Our Farm. Add their wedding, events and conferencing offers and array of activities around the grounds (croquet lawn, outdoor chessboard, bicycles and rowing boats), and you have a hotel that ticks all the boxes.

From £320 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 141

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

theLIST Eight Foodie Destinations

Peckish? ELLIE SMITH has got you covered with these delicious culinary hotspots

1

Deal, Kent

The picture-perfect town is closer to France than London, and hints of its influence are dotted throughout: Le Pinardier is a bar specialising in French wine (frogandscot.co.uk) while No Name Shop (no-name-shop.co.uk) sells French cheese, bread and pastries. That’s not the only cuisine on offer though: one of the buzziest new hotspots is The Blue Pelican (pictured), a Japanese restaurant housed inside a townhouse on the seafront (thebluepelican.co.uk).

2

Orford, Suffolk

The home of Pump Street Bakery, no trip here is complete without a pastry at the pretty pink premises (pumpstreetchocolate.com). There’s also seafood aplenty: lunch at the family-run Butley Orford Oysterage is a must (pinneysoforford. co.uk). A highlight is the restaurant at The Crown and Castle, showcasing the best of Suffolk produce, with a view of Orford castle to boot (crownandcastle.co.uk).

Queue for the famous bostock (brioche covered in frangipane) at Bostock Bakery (bostockbakery.co.uk), and pop into Drift for brunch with a view (driftalong.co.uk). Family-run Osteria pairs Italian classics with Scottish flavours (osteriano1.co.uk), while at The Lawn (lawnrestaurant. co.uk), former Masterchef contestant Chris Niven cooks up an impressive seasonal menu.

4

6

Bristol

The city brims with charming neighbourhood joints: from the recently opened 1 York Place in Clifton Village (1yorkplace.co.uk) to Redland hotspot Wilsons, Bristol’s only restaurant with a Michelin Green Star (wilsonsbristol.co.uk). City stalwart St Nicholas Market, meanwhile, is a treasure trove of great street food (think pies, falafels and dumplings).

1

(1) PHOTO BY JAY JAY LI / UNSPLASH

3

North Berwick, East Lothian

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5 6

Clitheroe, Lancashire

Local produce sits at the heart of the Ribble Valley’s friendly town of Clitheroe, where a market has run thrice-weekly since the 12th century. Cowmans Famous Sausage Shop, meanwhile, has been around for over 120 years, selling over 70 different sausage flavours (cowmans.co.uk). One of the newer openings is Holmes Mill, home to Bowland Brewery and its enormous Beer Hall (bowlandbrewery.com).

And for a classic country pub lunch, book a table at The Parkers Arms in Newton-inBowland, known for its lamb pies, with meat sourced from Burholme Farm just down the road (parkersarms.co.uk).

6

St Mawes, Cornwall

Forget the Med and head to Cornwall’s riviera, St Mawes, an idyllic fishing village on the edge of the Roseland Peninsula. Soak up the glittering sea views over lunch on the terrace of The Reef Knot, the new restaurant at The Idle Rocks hotel (pictured - idlerocks.com), enjoy fish and chips and a pint at harbourside pub The Rising Sun (risingsunstmawes.co.uk), and pick up some Cornish treats at Fudge & More (fudgeandmore.co.uk). It’s also well worth crossing the water for an excursion to beloved beach shack The Hidden Hut (pictured) where Simon Stallard hosts open-air wood-fired feast nights during the summer (hiddenhut.co.uk).

7

County Cork, Ireland

At the heart of Cork sits its buzzing food market, described by Rick Stein as ‘the best covered market in the UK and Ireland’, where historic stalls sit alongside newcomers serving everything from fresh local turbot to Irish soda bread. Elsewhere, book a tour of Rebel City Distillery, the home of Maharani Gin (rebelcitydistillery.com) and dine at buzzy restaurant The Glass Curtain (theglass curtain.ie). Check out the burgeoning foodie village of Kinsale, too: grab coffee at The Post House (theposthousekinsale.com) and lunch-togo from The Pie Guys (thepieguys.ie).

(1) PHOTO BY JAY JAY LI / UNSPLASH

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Near Chipping Norton, Cotswolds

You’ll find some of the country’s best pubs in the Cotswolds. One of the newer openings is Daylesford’s latest pub-with-rooms, The Bell at Charlbury (pictured) a foodie spot that cooks with organic produce from its sister farm (thebellatcharlbury. com). Over in the town centre there’s awardwinning bistro Whistlers (whistlersrestaurant. co.uk) – and, of course, you can’t leave without a visit to Jeremy Clarkson’s Diddly Squat Farm Shop (diddlysquatfarmshop.com), where you can buy a bottle of famous Bee Juice Rum.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

LORD CREWE ARMS

BLANCHLAND, NORTHUMBERLAND

In 2014, this wonderfully characterful and historic inn was superbly revamped by one of the best small hotel groups in the country, The Calcot Collection. In the honeystoned medieval village of Blanchland, amid the gorgeous countryside of the North Pennine moors, this posh pub-cum-hotel dates back to the 12th century. Even before you walk through the door, you’ll find yourself smiling thanks to the warm welcome from Richard, aka ‘The Beard of Blanchland’, who’s as much of a hit on Instagram as he is with guests. The hotel’s 26 bedrooms range from cosy doubles to suites (five of which were added last year), with relaxed eating areas displaying baronial and monastic touches as befit the building, originally part of Blanchland Abbey. The look throughout is spot on: English country calm mixed with cosmopolitan beat and pace. As for the honest, robust food, it’s in the excellent hands of Paul Johnson. The restored 15th century gatehouse is now a slick spot for special events, culinary demos and private gatherings of up to 30 people. In short, a truly delightful haven in one of the loveliest spots in the country.

Doubles from £184

+44 (0)1434 677100; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk

MATFEN HALL

MATFEN, NORTHUMBERLAND

A Gothic mansion house with all the trimmings, Matfen Hall is set in over 300 acres of Northumberland parkland. Inside, the 63 grand rooms have high ceilings, twinkly chandeliers and glorious uninterrupted views of the estate. Or splash out on one of the regal suites, which come with a cashmere mattress, antique Victorian furniture and a rolltop bath in the Carrara marble bathroom. You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to food: there’s fine-dining Emerald restaurant with its booklined walls, decorative ceilings and focus on locally sourced ingredients in the eight-course set menu; all-day casual dining at Cloisters in the courtyard (nab a table on the mezzanine level for the best views of the Great Hall’s magnificent stained-glass window); and The Drawing Room for afternoon tea by a roaring fire in winter. Spend days on the 27-hole championship golf course, relaxing in the spa with its glass-roof pool and thermal suites, or exploring must-see sights nearby such as Hadrian’s Wall. In the evenings, settle down in opulent 1832 for a pre-dinner glass of champagne or a negroni cocktail.

An idyllic country escape.

Doubles from £239 +44 (0)1661 886500; matfenhall.com 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE NORTH

MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow redbrick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, elegant sitting rooms each with a fire and views of the ha-ha. The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house bedrooms, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff. For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble soufflé with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel that is as alluring and comfortable in winter as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the first women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here.

It is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust-owned Historic House Hotel.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com

MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A restoration project with sustainability at its heart, Middleton Lodge is a stylish country estate that’s been restored by owner James Allison for the past 20 years. Working alongside Rebecca Tappin, the creative director, today the estate is a place to eat, gather and pause. Following an ‘estate to plate’ ethos, the Coach House and Forge restaurants serve seasonal dishes using produce from the two-acre walled garden redesigned by Tom Stuart Smith. The Coach House is relaxed and open all day, while Forge, recently awarded a Michelin Green Star, is more refined, bringing tasting experiences on Thursday to Sunday evenings. Scattered across the parkland, in the Dairy, Coach House, Walled Garden, Orchard, Main House, and the two selfcatered cottages, are 57 bedrooms, with tranquil, botanical influences. Some have log-burning stoves and giant, tin outdoor bathtubs. The breath-taking Forest Spa opened in summer 2023, with a large, heated outdoor pool, relaxation areas, sauna, plunge pool, steam room and hot tub. There are six treatment huts tucked away in the woodland for massages and body therapies.

Doubles from £235 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 145

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE PHEASANT HOTEL HAROME, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Overlooking the duck pond in the pretty village of Harome, The Pheasant ingeniously combines a forge, shop and several barns into a country house hotel with oak beams and stacks of character. The stylish interiors are designed with flair using calm, natural colours. In winter, the country-style drawing room has a cosy fire, and leading off it a lovely stone-flagged vine-shaded terrace comes into its own in summer. The 16 bedrooms are equally restful and individually luxurious in an understated way. There are 12 in the main building and two family- and dog-friendly ‘homes from home’ in the courtyard, plus Plum Cottage, a romantic retreat, and the luxurious duplex Pheasant Suite. There’s even an indoor heated pool. Brilliant for shoots, there are gun cabinets available and delicious feasts can be found in the restaurant.

Passionate head chef Vincenzo Raffone heads up the kitchen, producing sensational dishes, using local, seasonal ingredients. Standards are high, whether you sample the relaxed bar menu, afternoon tea or the spectacular tasting menu at dinner. As for breakfast, you will not find better, anywhere.

From £220 B&B/£320 DB&B +44 (0)1439 771241; thepheasanthotel.com

THE QUEEN’S HEAD ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

Part of Ciel Hotels since 2019, this 17th-century village pub has been lovingly renovated by the Lowther family. There are just six rooms dotted about the premises; some come with classic wooden furniture and floral wallpaper; others feel more modern with mint green walls and pretty bedside lamps. Most are big enough for families and all are dog-friendly. The restaurant – which has an AA Rosette – is equally intimate and offers refined seasonal dishes with a fieldto-fork philosophy. Indeed, the Lowthers farm their own pedigree shorthorns and rare breed pork; any roe deer and red deer venison served is from their woods and fells, and fruit, vegetables and herbs are freshly plucked from their kitchen gardens. Following a redesign of the kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven has just been installed, which offers a fabulous new menu, including wood-fired pizzas, salads, cured meats, cheeses and puddings. There are fantastic walks right from the front door, including on the fells and along the river Lowther. Afterwards, head back to the pub for a pint of ale by the copper bar to rest your weary feet.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1931 712225; queensheadaskham.co.uk 146 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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THE NORTH

THE ROSE & CROWN

ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, with beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown.

Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (p139), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: fine hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry.

There are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone fires, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include homemade parsnip and apple soup or venison bourguignon pie. The 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terrific character and charm. It’s also brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and fly fishing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk

ROTHAY MANOR AMBLESIDE, CUMBRIA

Dating back to 1835, this handsome white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District, at the northern tip of Lake Windermere. Husband and wife duo, Jenna and Jamie Shail, have breathed new life into the property, completing extensive, stylish renovations on the main house’s 15 rooms, some with private terraces, others with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds. You can also stay in The Pavilion, which has eight beautiful garden suites, designed with a colour palette of deep, luscious greens, peppered with opulent fabrics, sumptuous furnishings, and luxury amenities. In the restaurant, new head chef Aaron Lawrence draws upon his passion for fresh, seasonal British produce to create an exceptional modern menu, including a delicious Sunday Roast. Dogs are welcome – Rothay Manor even has a dedicated dog wash room with Ruff & Tumble dressing gowns, so you can rinse off muddy paws after a day on the fells. This is a bucolic, boutique bolthole, perfectly situated for easy lake strolls and hilly hikes, and a ten-minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 33605; rothaymanor.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 147

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE TAWNY

CONSALL, STAFFORDSHIRE

Set in the heart of rural Staffordshire, The Tawny combines all the best bits from a traditional hotel – a fabulous restaurant, seamless service and an outdoor pool (heated all year round) – with your own private space. Spread across the estate (which dates back to 1246), there are wildwood huts, treehouses and romantic boathouses, each chic and cosy with superlative views – plus, all feature an outdoor bath on a private decking. There’s also a lovely treatment room housed in a quaint thatched cottage and, new this year, larger self-catered properties named The Fledglings, which are perfect for groups looking for extra space but all the trimmings of the hotel’s service. Headed up

by Andrew Watts, The Plumicorn, with its stunning vistas, serves an inspired menu, using the best of local produce. There’s a delicious afternoon tea too. Guests can order a picnic to enjoy in the grounds – the hotel has 70 acres of undulating landscape, dotted with lakeside gardens, secluded dells and enchanting follies. The Peak District is only a stone’s throw away. Staff are super friendly and dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1538 787664; thetawny.co.uk

WILDHIVE CALLOW HALL ASHBOURNE, DERBYSHIRE

Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Victorian Callow Hall opened in September 2021 as the first opening from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways. Stay in the main house where rooms with an eclectic, playful feel are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in one of the 11 cosy, tucked-away woodland hives. There are also two spectacular self-contained treehouses, each with an outdoor tub on the deck. The wellness centre in The Coach House has a Pilates studio, sauna and steam room, botanical massages on the treatment menu and bicycles that guests can borrow to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail.

Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take afternoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for the seasonal dishes using British produce at dinner – goats cheese tortellini with wild nettle pesto and a garlic and treacle-cured Packington pork belly with fidget pie, Yorkshire rhubarb, purple kale – in the Garden Room restaurant. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District.

Doubles from £214 +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk 148 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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Founded by Arizona Muse

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

WALES & THE MARCHES From its emerald coast to its epic peaks, Wales is a glorious feast for the eyes and heart – and the local food isn’t bad either

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An Autumn Evening in Llanrwst, Conwy, Wales, by Llewelyn Thorold. Young Landscape Photographer of the Year, Classic View, 2023.

LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES

Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentle-paced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches.

Climb its tower – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. The Grade I-listed house is filled with character, and boasts 15 bedrooms and 16 postcard pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate-grown and locally sourced ingredients in dishes such as butter poached seabass and slow cooked lamb rump. The former farmhouse now houses the luxurious spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com

CASTLE HOUSE

HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

This elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion, in a quiet, unrivalled location close to the historic Hereford Cathedral, is owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family. The 24 bedrooms and suites are stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where there are eight striking rooms. All offer an array of treats such as a decanter of sherry, a hospitality box filled with local produce, and bathrooms stocked with L’Occitane products. Light-filled public spaces include the beautiful Waterside Restaurant & Bar, with uninterrupted views over the hotel’s pretty garden and the old castle moat beyond. Head chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locally sourced and homegrown produce, some from the kitchen garden on the Watkins’ nearby Ballingham Hall Farm. The hotel is very popular with guests and locals, especially for its traditional Sunday roast with the farm’s homegrown Ballingham beef and seasonal vegetables. You absolutely mustn’t miss its famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. This hotel fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.

From £165 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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WALES & THE MARCHES

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON, POWYS

This was the first of Edmund and Charles Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head on p38 and The Old Coastguard on p48). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival that takes place each spring. They all love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around and listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills, and you feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace. Room Eight takes over the top of the building – a glorious vantage point into the fields beyond. After a refined dinner cooked up by new head chef Gwenann Davies, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.

Doubles from £182.50; from £270, inc dinner +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk

GROVE OF NARBERTH NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

This striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many windowed; the other is gabled, with arts and crafts elements that continue inside. There are 25 beautiful bedrooms by top interior designer, Martin Hulbert. All have a view of the gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills, while some of the cottage suites come with fabulous glass box garden lounges.

Martin was also tasked with creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground floor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements. Dinners in the four AA Rosette Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms brasserie or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees.

Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious.

Doubles from £390 +44 (0)1834 860915; grovenarberth.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 153

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

PENALLY ABBEY TENBY, PEMBROKESHIRE

This grand Welsh mansion exudes bonhomie, making you relax instantly and feel at home.

Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain brought the lovely, late 18th-century Gothic house, with its romantic ogee-headed doors and windows, stunningly back to life in 2014. You enter a spacious hallway with a wood-burning stove; there follows a bar opening onto a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room filled with locally collected antiques. Here, you’ll dine on delicious, local and homegrown produce, dished up in imaginative ways – try the Welsh lamb with broad beans and crushed Pembrokeshire potatoes. Melanie’s aesthetic – handily, she has a background in interior design – mixes the elegant and the traditional with judiciously stylish touches. The result?

All 12 bedrooms are equally restful and comfortable spaces, most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to spend time. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do in the area, which sums up the charms of this exceptional, friendly hotel and its lovely gardens.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com

PENMAENUCHAF HOTEL ERYRI, NORTH WALES

The fantastical landscape of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park is spellbinding. The stonefronted mountain hideaway of Penmaenuchaf Hotel fits right in. Perched high above the Mawddach estuary at the foot of the rugged Cadair Idris, this grand country house is celebrating a new chapter, with new owners Zoe and Neil Kedward. The couple took over in June 2022, growing their Seren family business, a lovely collection of proudly Welsh hotels and restaurants. There are 13 delightful individually designed bedrooms. Traditional style and textures mingle with contemporary touches, with a sprinkling of Welsh arts, crafts and antiques. In the kitchen, head chef Tom Hine (who cut his teeth at Gidleigh Park and Lympstone Manor) and his team do a cracking job, using high-quality seasonal ingredients, sourced locally or from the hotel’s kitchen garden. Tuck into flavour-packed British cooking, such as exquisite Welsh lamb, accompanied by caramelised turnip, sheep’s curd, gem lettuce and lamb jus. Of course, all is topped off by the phenomenal views of Eryri – and this gem of a retreat is the perfect base for exploring this extraordinary region.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1341 212121; penmaenuchaf.co.uk 154 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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WALES & THE MARCHES

THE RIVERSIDE AT AYMESTREY LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE

Sitting on the banks of the river Lugg, this attractive black-and-white-timbered, 16th-century inn offers guests the perfect opportunity to unwind, either by sipping local real ales and cider on the riverbank, or by relaxing beside a roaring log burner.

The six original bedrooms are homely and comfortable – we adored the three beautiful garden rooms, decked out with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own veranda overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. The Riverside is ideally located for walkers as it’s on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail, as well as being perfectly positioned for fishing and other country sports. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef/patron Andy Link, a star of the local Slow Food Movement, grows 50 different fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welsh-border produce. Andy is committed to being creative with local crops, and makes his own treats from foraged goodies – hay and meadowsweet ice cream and lavender fudge, anyone? Simply the very best and always fabulous value.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk

TWR Y FELIN

PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES

This former 19th century mill-turned-boutique hotel, on the spectacular peninsula that is also home to Britain’s smallest city, St Davids, has always had charm. But when renowned architect Keith Griffiths took over this bolthole in 2015, he upped the ante. Now Wales’ first contemporary art hotel, it’s all about the visual: here, walls are decorated with over 250 works of local art. These take centre stage in the 39 minimalist-style bedrooms (including a suite in the original Windmill Tower), which come with super king beds, handcrafted furniture and sweeping coastal views. Three AA Rosette Blas restaurant serves an excellent seasonal menu, focusing on local produce – and don’t miss the portrait of Catherine Zeta-Jones by street artist Pure Evil. There’s also Cornel bar, a cosy art lover’s snug, Oriel Lounge and a meeting room. During the day, stroll to stunning Caerfai Bay or explore St David’s cathedral, both a stone’s throw away. Leave time to drop by Twr y Felin’s sister venues – 12th century Roch Castle and beautifully restored Penrhiw Priory. Upon return, relax with a holistic massage in the calming treatment room.

From £180 +44 (0)1437 725555; twryfelinhotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 155

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

SCOTLAND

A land of freezing lochs and towering munros, ruined castles and pretty cottages, Scotland is exhilarating, wild and always captivating

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The Needle, Trotternish, Isle of Skye, Scotland, by Julien Delaval. Landscape Photographer of the Year, Classic View, 2023. LPOTYA: Collection 16 (Ilex Press, £35)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

THE BONNIE BADGER GULLANE, EAST LOTHIAN

Chef Tom Kitchin and his wife Michaela opened their first restaurant in 2006 – The Kitchin, Edinburgh quickly gained a Michelin star after six months. Today, they also operate a modern Scottish restaurant with rooms, The Bonnie Badger, in the enchanting coastal village of Gullane, just outside Edinburgh.

Once again, Tom showcases his ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy, combining French techniques with East Lothian’s bountiful larder. There’s an enviable quartet of dining options whether guests wish to dine from the à la carte menu in The Stables, relish exceptional pub classics at Broc Bar, gather in the garden over seasonal favourites straight from the grill or enjoy carefully crafted afternoon tea in the Garden Room. It’s no surprise they hold both a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand and five AA Gold Stars. But it’s not just about the cuisine. There are 12 inviting bedrooms and one master suite, spread across the main house and two cottages with close access to the beautiful Gullane coastline.

Bring the whole family – children are warmly welcomed with a special ‘Cubs Corner’ and ‘Cubs’ menu, and it’s dog friendly too.

Rooms from £195 +44 (0)1620 621111; bonniebadger.com

THE MACHRIE

ISLE OF ISLAY, ARGYLL

A beautiful hotel sitting above the dunes of a seven-miles beach on the Isle of Islay, ‘the Queen’ of the Hebridean archipelago off the west coast of Scotland, The Machrie has 47 contemporary rooms, suites and lodges which offer an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area. Guests are invited to play on one of the World’s Top 100 Championship Golf Courses, designed by former European Ryder Cup vice-captain DJ Russell, fatbike along the shore, take a wildlife boat trip around the coastline and visit one of the world famous distilleries on Islay. Three cosy lounges and a sunset terrace provide the perfect retreat. Start the evening with a fine Islay malt whisky on 18 Restaurant & Bar’s terrace – with panoramic views across the 18th green to the Atlantic Ocean – before tucking into seasonal dishes that celebrate Scotland’s natural larder including Loch Gruinart Oysters. Just a 25-minute flight from Glasgow, or two hours by ferry from Kennacraig, Islay is accessible yet feels perfectly remote. A true Scottish island adventure, The Machrie offers outstanding sea views and so much to explore.

Doubles from £235 +44 (0)1496 302310; themachrie.com 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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SCOTLAND

THE PIERHOUSE HOTEL PORT APPIN, ARGYLL

Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, The Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. A relaxed hotel, it’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world and for sampling the very best of its local produce.

The 12 bedrooms include several with loch views, which look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Head chef Michael Leathley is in charge of the Michelin-recognised and two AA Rosette Awarded seafood restaurant, where he calls his cooking ‘bringing the outside in’ – in other words, the freshest west coast seafood such as creel-caught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters, plus Scottish meat, and vegetables, all prepared and cooked using classic, simple techniques. There is a lounge, with a wood-burning stove, for relaxing in after a day spent hiking or biking, and The Ferry Bar (named after the foot passenger ferry from Port Appin that has been running since 1750) where you’ll find an impressive selection of Scottish gins and more than 200 types of malt whisky to sample.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk

THE WITCHERY EDINBURGH

James Thomson’s Gothic conversion of this historic 16th century building – which is named after those burnt on the stake for being witches on Castlehill – is darkly mysterious and thrillingly exotic. At the top of Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, you enter through an ancient close into a flamboyantly theatrical world, where ceilings are richly gilded and painted walls are hung with tapestries or panelled in oak, and rooms are decorated in jewel-like colours with swathes of velvet. Above the restaurant and in the adjacent Jollies Close, the nine suites are vast, sumptuous and wickedly romantic, furnished with four-posters or extravagantly curtained beds, antiques and oil paintings. A celebrity haunt, the Witchery restaurant not only looks magical, with its red leather seats, panelling and candlelight, but showcases the best produce Scotland has to offer. The Angus beef steak tartare is legendary. And the afternoon tea as decadent as you’d hope, featuring Edinburgh gin-cured salmon sandwiches and chocolate tarts. In summer, there’s al fresco dining on the private topiary-filled terrace of the hotel’s other restaurant, the Secret Garden.

Doubles from £595 info@thewitchery.com; thewitchery.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 159

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2024/25

On The

RAILS

The golden age of rail returns to the UK and Ireland as the slow travel movement gathers momentum. REBECCA COX rounds up seven of the best routes

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BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN Distance: from 89 miles / Journey time: from two days

Sometimes a few hours on a train looking out the window simply isn’t enough. For the true train fanatic, only moving onboard for the entire holiday will do. The genuinely iconic Belmond Royal Scotsman offers an incredibly luxurious train escape in stunning Scottish scenery with themed trips ranging from two to seven nights. Departing from Edinburgh, journeys traverse pine-clad mountains, mirrorclear lochs (drizzle dependent) and iconic Scottish landmarks.

What’s inside the carriages is sure to delight in equal measure: sumptuous cabins, plush dining carts serving up superlative fine dining, and a cool observation car to soak in the scenery. There’s old-world glamour and new-world comforts, the most luxurious of which is a Dior Spa (less choo-choo, more swit-swoo). Day trippers should also check out the range of first class journeys on the Belmond sister train, the British Pullman, particularly the whistle-stop immersive murder mystery voyages, which are sure to be a hoot. belmond.com

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TANFIELD RAILWAY Distance: six-mile round trip / Journey time: one hour

Any rail fan will be keen to check out the ‘World’s Oldest Railway’, which dates back to 1725. This heritage ride allows passengers to step back in time for a six-mile round steam-train journey through the picturesque Causey Valley. The journey also takes in the Causey Arch, the world’s oldest railway bridge dating back to 1727. This is one for genuine train lovers, rather than those seeking to get from A to B in style, since ultimately, you’ll end up back at point A. tanfield-railway.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 161

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HOWTH TO GREYSTONES Distance: 27 miles / Journey time: 1.5 hours

The train journey from Howth to Greystones is one of Ireland’s most scenic routes. This coastal adventure follows the Irish Sea, offering unparalleled views of Dublin and Wicklow, showcasing the beauty of both regions. Passengers can enjoy views of Dublin’s suburbs and Wicklow’s tranquil landscapes, passing through towns including Sandycove and Dalkey. Killiney is also along the route, with its stunning bay and starry residents, and the ride culminates in a spectacular finale during the ten-minute ride from Bray to Greystones. irishrail.ie

THE SETTLE-CARLISLE RAILWAY Distance: 73 miles / Journey time: two hours

Built in 1876 by the Midland Railway company, the historic Victorian Settle-Carlisle Railway was a result of a dispute with the London and North Western Railway over access to Scotland. History buffs can spend the journey reading up on railway politics, while nature lovers can delight in the scenic views across the Yorkshire Dales and the North Pennines. settle-carlisle.co.uk

DERRY-LONDONDERRY TO COLERAINE Distance: 27 miles / Journey time: 40 minutes

There’s plenty to see and do in both Derry-Londonderry and Coleraine, the gateway to the Causeway Coast, and the journey between the two is spectacular. Follow the River Foyle out of the city and onwards to the golden sands of Benone Strand, the maritime cliffs at Downhill and the Binevenagh Mountain. Birdwatch for peregrine falcons before diving into the longest railway tunnels in Ireland en route to Coleraine from Castlerock. Apparently, Michael Palin describes this route as ‘one of the most beautiful rail journeys in the world’, so if you’re traversing the British Isles and Ireland by rail, this is a must. discovernorthernireland.com

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NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS RAILWAY Distance: 24 miles / Journey time: two hours

Heading North for your next staycation? Enjoy the North York Moors National Park from aboard a steam or heritage diesel train by booking a journey on this legendary rail route.

This 24-mile line includes stops at Pickering, Levisham and Grosmont, ending in Whitby – all worth a potter. Speaking of, the journey also features a stop at Goathland, which Harry Potter fans will recognise as the setting for Hogsmeade station in the Philosopher’s Stone film, and the Yorkshire Moors will have you feeling like you’re being whisked off to Hogwarts. Magic. nymr.co.uk

LONDON TO PENZANCE ON THE NIGHT RIVIERA SLEEPER Distance: 255 miles / Journey time: eight hours

This sleeper service takes three hours longer than the day train to Penzance from Paddington, but roughly the same time as making the journey by car if there’s even the slightest problem on the A30. Better, then, to tuck oneself up in a sleeping cabin and be rocked to sleep on this scenic journey down to the most westerly point of the English mainland. From there you can travel onwards by ferry to the Isles of Scilly, or immerse yourself in all Penzance has to offer, from the craggy cliffs of Land’s End to a summer swim in the historic Jubilee Pool. gwr.com n 162 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND From its coasts’ wild beauty to its rich green mountains, the landscapes of Ireland and Northern Ireland are rich in history and culture

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ANANTARA THE MARKER DUBLIN DUBLIN

Dublin’s Docklands may be the lesser-known part of the city but this rapidly changing part of town, home to cultural hotspots and tech giants, leads the way for the city’s cosmopolitan future. Overlooking the waterfront of Grand Canal Square, Anantara The Marker fits right in. The hotel originally opened in 2013 before undergoing a major renovation a decade later, re-opening under the Anantara brand in 2023.

A sleek, contemporary landmark, Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus drew upon the Irish landscape for inspiration. The striking chequerboard-style façade represents the Cliffs of Moher and the geometric shape-filled lobby pays homage to the stones of Giant’s Causeway. The 187 elegant rooms and suites are a lesson in contemporary Irish design.

Gareth Mullins’ Forbes Street restaurant, serving modern Irish cuisine, also hits all the high notes, while the rooftop bar and terrace is a must-visit for the 360˚ views. Hide away in the Anantara Spa with its award-winning treatments and indoor pool. Little ones haven’t been forgotten either with kids menus, family rooms and children’s swimming times.

From €300, B&B +353 (0)1687 5100; anantara.com

BALLYFIN

BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS

Set at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, this Neoclassical country house hotel, standing on its own glorious 614-acre estate, triumphs as a captivating place of history and romance, tranquillity and great natural beauty. A supersmart knot of staff await guests on the steps, setting the tone for the exceptional service.

Inside lies the finest interiors of any hotel in Europe, complete with superb antiques and paintings. The reception rooms – from the enormous saloon to the 80-foot library – are a clever balance of magnificence and cosy while the 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous in classic Irish country house fashion. There is also a beautiful private Gardeners Cottage available to rent, in the walled garden. The food, with the highly regarded Richard Picard-Edwards at the helm, lives up to the surroundings and sets you up for exploring the verdant gardens, with its lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and medieval-style tower with rolling views. There’s an abundance of country pursuits to boot. Alternatively, enjoy the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and therapeutic treatments. Either way, sustained peace and quiet is guaranteed.

Doubles from €810 +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE RECESS, COUNTY GALWAY

Nestled beneath the Twelve Bens on the Wild Atlantic Way, Ballynahinch Castle has a history as colourful as its riverside setting. Surrounded by 700 acres of rugged Connemara landscape, this Relais and Châteaux hotel has a big heart that captivates its many returning guests (it enchanted Seamus Heaney, who wrote his poem, Ballynahinch Lake, while staying here). Bedrooms are spacious, comfortable and recently redecorated with elegant floral wallpaper and artworks; some also come with modern four-poster beds. The big draw is the superb salmon fishing (the atmospheric, wood-panelled pub is full of memorabilia and has a famous set of weighing scales) but other activities on offer include guided estate walks on woodland trails. In the fine dining restaurant, which is hung with superb 20th century Irish art, the best tables are those overlooking the Owenmore River. Stewarding the kitchen is executive head chef Danni Barry, who took over in January 2023, and has created a sophisticated seasonal menu championing local produce and ingredients plucked straight from the hotel’s walled garden. +353 (0)95 31006; ballynahinch-castle.com

BREAC.HOUSE

DUNFANAGHY, CO DONEGAL

Located on Donegal’s dramatic Horn Head overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Breac.

House, opened in 2017 by Dubliners Cathrine Burke and Niall Campbell, fits triumphantly into the wild landscape. Designed by awardwinning local architects and built by local tradesmen, sustainability is at the heart of this modern retreat, from the building itself and energy usage to the local sourcing of everything, including food and drink. The four rooms, with spectacular panoramic sea and mountain views, are deliciously cosy, with super-king custom crafted oak beds, topped with pure Irish wool duvets, and bold terrazzo bathrooms. Things get even better when a scrumptious breakfast arrives through a hatch. During the day, explore the deserted beaches and ancient forests, hike in a national park, take a surf lesson, play a round of golf, visit art galleries and heritage buildings or just gaze at the ocean. Back at Breac.House, relax on the terrace, curl up in the library or beside a roaring fire. There is also a seaweed bath and wood-fired sauna. There is no restaurant but the pre-dinner drinks are fabulous as are the many excellent eateries nearby.

Doubles from €395 hello@breac.house; breac.house COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 167

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CULLODEN ESTATE & SPA HOLYWOOD, BELFAST

Built as the palace for the Bishop of Down, Culloden Estate & Spa now soars as a traditionally elegant escape, high in the Holywood Hills outside Belfast. Bright and spacious, there are 98 bedrooms and suites with a King Koil ‘Cloud bed’ and luxurious linen. This means a good night’s sleep is guaranteed. You’re spoilt for choice on which room to choose, from the elegantly appointed Estate Room with its deep soak baths to the Tower Suite, with its double height ceilings, original plaster cornice design and fine Irish fabrics. The Palace Suite is showstopping – all marble, velvet and plush carpets – with wonderful views overlooking Belfast Lough.

There’s excellent food to match. Vespers Restaurant, which wows with its gothic grandeur, serves modern Irish cuisine, using the finest local ingredients. The Cultra Inn, a traditional Irish pub with roaring fires and outdoor dining, also offers a superb seasonal menu. The award-winning spa should not be missed, with delicious ESPA treatments (try the Heavenly Retreat for instant relaxation).

Culloden Estate & Spa is also dreamy for weddings and, indeed, dreamy all-round.

From £270, B&B +44 (0)28 9042 1066; cullodenestateandspa.com

GALGORM

COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND

The River Maine flows through this 450acre parkland, which is renowned for its Par-72 championship golf course and thermal spa – the first of its kind in Ireland.

Only 30 minutes’ drive from Belfast yet a world away, it has 125 bedrooms with Rolf Benz furniture and spacious marble bathrooms, plus rustic-luxe shepherd’s huts in Galgorm Woods, each with an outdoor bath and firepit on the terrace. Spend days in the spa, drifting between the riverside vitality pool and The Palm House, an ornate botanical structure set among olive trees and apple orchards in The Walled Garden – the perfect space to kick back with an aperol gin fizz cocktail. Or playing golf: as well as the main course, there is a fantastic academy with a 24-bay floodlit driving range and the club’s Castle Kitchen + Bar. Elsewhere, there are more than 550 varieties of gin to choose from in the Gin Library and ample food options for all, from buttermilk scones and confit pear tart as part of afternoon tea in The Conservatory, to the casual Fratelli Ristorante pizzeria and the Gillies Grill overlooking the stables.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)28 2588 1001; galgorm.com 168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND

THE MERRION HOTEL DUBLIN

Dublin’s finest hotel is effortlessly gracious.

Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat fires, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th and 20th century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. The fine dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, with the Garden Room Restaurant available for a more casual dining experience.

There’s also a spa with a pillared infinity pool, luxurious spa treatment rooms and hair salon. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since The Merrion opened, but it’s quite a surprise to find that was just over 25 years ago. It feels timeless.

Doubles from €375 +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com

THE MONTENOTTE CORK, IRELAND

Cork’s leading urban resort, The Montenotte showcases chic interiors, superb food and a vibrant atmosphere, alongside stunning views of the city skyline. A proud member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, you’ll find yourself reeled straight in by the warm Irish welcome. The 107 luxurious rooms have super comfortable beds, jewel tones, lovely local art plus modern amenities. Executive chef Rudi Liebenberg does a sterling job with delicious seasonal dishes in the stylish Panorama, one of the hottest seats in town, blending New York cool with Parisian chic. But don’t miss The Glasshouse, nestled within the hotel’s landscaped gardens, serving gin-infused masterpieces on its pink terrace. Bellevue Spa boasts delightful massages and a rejuvenating Salt Room or visit the Health Club, which inspires you to perform your best, but just leave time to catch a movie in the Cameo Cinema. Put simply, the perfect city escape. In August, The Montenotte is set to launch The Woodland Suite Experience, the first of its kind in Ireland – with nine brand new luxury accommodation suites, and an exclusive private clubhouse.

From €220 +353 (0)21453 0050; themontenottehotel.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 169

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theLIST

Eight Staycation Adventures You don’t have to travel abroad to find adrenaline-fuelled fun, says CHARLIE COLVILLE

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Horse Riding ISLE OF WIGHT

What’s better than a beach holiday? A horseriding beach holiday. The Island Riding Centre on the Isle of Wight offers escapes and lessons for all ages and skill levels, and is located right by the beach – meaning you can trot along the coast and explore over 280 bridleways atop your trusty steed. islandriding.com

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Coasteering ST DAVIDS, WALES

Where better to try coasteering than in the place where it all began? The activity, which consists of adventure swimming, scrambling and jumping into deep water, was supposedly first brought to the attention of tourists by outdoor adventure company TYF back in the 1980s. Since then, TYF has taken over 200,000 people along the cliff coastline of St Davids for a chance to try their hand at it – resulting in plenty of grins, laughs and newly confirmed adventurers. tyf.com

CAIRNGORMS, SCOTLAND

Road-tripping through the Scottish Highlands takes on a luxury edge, thanks to WildTrax. The adventure specialists leave any on-foot scrambling to the local hikers, and instead rent out classic 4x4 Land Rover vehicles that are perfect for weathering the rugged terrain of the Cairngorms. And if you’re looking for a place to stay the night, even better; WildTrax’s network of partner lodges gives plenty of indoor options, while its rooftop tent service lets you continue the adventure long after the sun has gone down. wildtrax.co.uk

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Car Track Days SILVERSTONE

Another one for petrolheads. When Silverstone isn’t busy hosting Formula 1, it becomes a hub of racing activity for fans of the sport. Visitors are invited to pull up to one of three tracks (National, International or Grand Prix) and put their motor skills to the test. Guided by an instructor, you’ll be able to hop behind the wheel of a supercar (we like the look of the McLaren) and race around the circuit to your heart’s content. silverstone.co.uk

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Land Rover Rentals

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Scuba Diving ISLE OF PORTLAND, DEVON

Fancy brushing up on your scuba diving skills? Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to jet off to warmer waters to explore deep beneath the ocean’s surface; our coastline is home to plenty of marine life that’s ripe for discovery. The Isle of Portland sits on the very tip of the Jurassic Coast and is the perfect base for a spot of scuba diving. You can pick up classes with Dive Beyond, whose instructors will help you search wrecks, explore reefs and spot plenty of local wildlife during your time on the Isle. divebeyond.co.uk

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Surfing PORTRUSH, NORTHERN IRELAND

As far as beach breaks go, Portrush is pretty high up on our list – especially when it comes to hitting the waves with a surfboard. Portrush’s East Strand and West Strand might not have the quiet seclusion of other surfing beaches in the UK, but its ultra-friendly atmosphere makes it a prime spot for beginners and families getting to grips with the sport. Local surf schools like Troggs offer lessons for all levels, as well as special sunset experiences and parties for hen and stag dos. Whatever floats your boat (or surfboard). troggssurfschool.co.uk

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Mountaineering LAKE DISTRICT

The Lake District is something of a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. As England’s largest national park, the area is awash with rivers, mountains and forests – all of which can be explored on foot. If you’d like to set your sights high (quite literally) on your next holiday, then make sure to enrol on one of the guided adventures hosted by Graham Uney Mountaineering, where a team of wellversed instructors will guide you across Cumbria’s eastern fells. Good views are guaranteed. grahamuneymountaineering.co.uk

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Orca Spotting SHETLAND ISLANDS

Nature thrives on the Shetland Islands, making it the perfect spot for wildlife sightings whether on land, sea or in the air. But there’s one mammal in particular that’s known for setting off excitement among locals and tourists alike – orcas – and, luckily, they can be spotted throughout the year. Pods are best spotted from the sea itself, and you can book onto marine tours with a number of local companies (many of which will also whizz you around to see seabirds, seals and other wildlife, just in case the orcas don’t fancy making an appearance). shetland.org

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Temple Guiting Manor, p175

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PRIVATE HOUSES

Searching for an escape just for you? These beautiful private homes are perfect for holing up in sublime luxury with your nearest and dearest

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COTHELSTONE MANOR TAUNTON, SOMERSET

A magnificent Grade II*-listed Elizabethan house, Cothelstone Manor offers the ultimate country getaway for its guests.

You can call its seven bedrooms – with six bathrooms, a grand dining hall, billiard room, drawing room, snug and modern kitchen – home for a weekend, a week, or even longer. The original building here dates back to the 16th century, you’ll find its present iteration (rebuilt in the 19th century) has been lovingly recently restored with interior designer, Edward Bishop, using a palette of earthy tones, plus plenty of texture and natural materials. The manor is available to hire on a self-catering basis, or alternatively it offers a fully catered luxury experience for a truly relaxing stay – how about hosting a feast in the 500-year-old Dining Hall, conjured up by a handpicked catering team using delicious local produce?

It’s all set in the divine, bucolic 1,500-acre Cothelstone Estate, which places nature, heritage and community at its core, with the organic farm, ancient woodlands and historic buildings creating a special place for both locals and guests alike.

From £1,400 a night +44 (0)7870 111934; cothelstonemanor.com

SAND & STONE ESCAPES

PHOTOS: © KYM GRIMSHAW

NATIONWIDE

If you’re after a staycation with the ‘wow’ factor, then Sand & Stone Escapes has you covered.

Born out of a passion for design, quality and unique holiday stays, the brand’s impressive portfolio of coastal, city and country hideaways and houses can be found across the UK, including the Cotswolds, Devon, Norfolk, and Isle of Skye. Its Managing Director meets each property owner to determine whether their home is a suitable addition to the Sand & Stone family. As a result, the brand has curated an unbeatable selection of luxurious self-catering holiday homes to book. There’s its flagship property, Black Moon, a decadent oceanfront two-person bolthole situated on the shores of St Ives, perfect for romantic breaks. The Tree House in the Cotswolds – a real-life treetop cabin nestled in a pretty wooded valley with a wood-burning stove and a freestanding bath in front of bifold doors, which you can push back for an incredible al-fresco bathing experience amid the leaves. Or, book one of its utterly charming cottages, from sweet 17th century 3 The Square to brand new Wood Farm House, a five bedroom Cotswold stone house could easily be mistaken for a small boutique hotel.

From £125 +44 (0)20 8740 3097; sandandstoneescapes.com 174 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE

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PRIVATE HOUSES

TEMPLE GUITING MANOR CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

A country cousin to Henry’s Townhouse in Marylebone, this is the place to hold your swinging rural weekend in true Cotswolds style. There’s a stunning, historic small Medieval manor house – described

by Nicholas Pevsner as one of the finest examples of its kind in the country – with utterly charming features, including two of the UK’s only purpose-built dovecotes, which have been cleverly converted into one cinema room and one hot-tub space. If your party is extensive, you can also rent The Barn (pictured) next door – for those who like a more contemporary feel and perhaps more accessibility. Whichever house you’re in (the whole lot can sleep up to 32), you have a tennis court, Jinny Blom-designed parterred gardens, and a lake for wild swimming in the morning at your disposal (the pool is for The Barn guests only), as well as a cute forest playground for children. From your door, there are walks for miles around without the need to get in a car, but mostly you’ll want to linger and lounge in true Saltburn style in your perfect country estate.

The Manor, from £2,100 per night; the whole estate from £5,450 per night +44 (0)1451 850577 templeguitingmanor.co.uk

TREVEAR FARM

PHOTOS: © KYM GRIMSHAW

WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

With all the luxurious amenities of a boutique hotel, but featuring the privacy of a private home, Trevear Farm on the beautiful North Cornwall coast is the perfect place to escape and unwind. There’s eight self-catering cottages to choose from here, including grand five-bedroom Broadview, which has a hot tub, barbecue and garden room with a pool table, and cosy Barn Owl Roost, a cottage with two bedrooms, patio and wood-burning stove.

Off-site, there’s also Lowen, a fabulous threebedroom cottage with sweeping views over the Camel Estuary and a heated swimming pool, and four-bed Rockview, which features a magnificent sun deck to make the most of its position overlooking the same stretch of water. If you’re staying at a property on the farm, you have the use of an indoor swimming pool, steam room, gym and wellness room.

The farm is ideally located for visiting nearby Padstow, with its restaurants and pretty harbour, and for accessing some of Cornwall’s most spectacular beaches. Farm tours are also available upon request, and the friendly team can organise everything from yoga classes to horse riding to water sports for you.

From £941 +44 (0)1872 553491; trevearfarm.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 175

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Index 11 Cadogan Gardens

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A Anantara The Marker Dublin Artist Residence London Artist Residence Oxford Artist Residence Penzance

166 92 76 34

B The Bailey’s Hotel London Kensington Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballynahinch Castle The Barnsdale Batty Langley’s The Beaumont Beaverbrook Townhouse Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms Bedruthan Hotel & Spa The Bell Inn Bingham Riverhouse Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa Blakeney Hotel Bodysgallen Hall The Bonnie Badger Bovey Castle Breac.House Brown’s Hotel, A Rocco Forte Hotel Bulgari Hotel London The Bull Inn

93 76 166 167 124 93 94 94 77 54 34 110 95 54 130 152 158 35 167 95 97 35

C The Cadogan, A Belmond Hotel, London Calcot & Spa Careys Manor Hotel & Senspa Cary Arms & Spa Castle House The Cat Inn The Chelsea Townhouse Chewton Glen Cley Windmill Cliveden House The Collective at Woolsery Congham Hall Cothelstone Manor The Crown, Church Enstone Culloden Estate & Spa

97 110 64 36 152 77 98 64 130 78 36 131 174 111 168

65 112

F Fawsley Hall Hotel & Spa The Feathered Nest Country Inn The Felin Fach Griffin Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire Four Seasons Hotel Park Lane The Franklin London – Starhotels Collezione

124 112 153 65 99 98

G Galgorm Gara Rock George and Dragon The George Inn Gilpin Hotel & Lake House Goodwood Hotel The Goring The Grand Hotel Birmingham The Grand, York Gravetye Manor The Greenway Hotel & Spa Grove of Narberth The Grosvenor The Gunton Arms The Gurnard’s Head

168 37 138 55 138 78 99 125 139 79 113 153 66 132 38

H Hambleton Hall The Hambrough The Hare & Hounds The Hari The Harper Hart’s Hotel Hartwell House Hazlitt’s Headlam Hall Heckfield Place Hell Bay Hotel Henry’s Town House The Highfield House Homewood Hotel & Spa The Horse & Groom Hotel Café Royal Hotel Meudon Hotel Victoria Husk

125 66 79 100 132 126 82 100 139 67 38 101 140 55 82 101 39 140 133

I The Idle Rocks

39

J

D The Dabbling Duck Dittisham Hideaway The Double Red Duke

L

E East End Arms Ellenborough Park

131 37 111

The Jack Russell Inn JW Marriott Grosvenor House

67 102

The Lakes by Yoo The Lamb Inn Langdale Chase Leeds Castle Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel Lime Wood Linthwaite House The Londoner Lord Crewe Arms Lucknam Park The Lygon Arms Lympstone Manor

Q 113 114 141 83 83 70 141 102 144 58 114 44

M The Machrie The Manor at Sway Matfen Hall The Mayfair Townhouse The Merrion Hotel Middlethorpe Hall Middleton Lodge Estate The Mitre Mandarin Oriental The Montagu Arms The Montenotte

158 70 144 103 169 145 145 84 103 71 169

44 115 84 58

O Ockenden Manor The Old Coastguard One Aldwych

85 48 104

R The Rectory The Retreat Rhinefield House The Ritz London The Riverside at Aymestrey The Rose & Crown The Rookery Rosewood London Rothay Manor The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa The Royal Oak

116 86 72 105 155 147 105 106 147 60 87

S Sand & Stone Escapes The Scarlet The Seafood Restaurant The Standard, London Stanwell House Star Castle Hotel The Sun Inn The Swan

174 49 49 106 73 50 133 116

Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites & Residences Talbooth House & spa The Tawny Temple Guiting Manor Thornbury Castle Thyme Trevear Farm Trewornan Manor Tudor Farmhouse Hotel Twr y Felin

107 134 148 175 117 117 175 50 118 155

U

P The Painswick Penally Abbey The Peninsula London Penmaenuchaf Hotel The Pheasant Hotel The Pierhouse Hotel The Pig – near Bath The Pig – on the Beach The Pig – at Bridge Place The Pig The Pig – at Combe The Pig – at Harlyn Bay The Pig – in the South Downs The Pig – in the Wall Polurrian on the Lizard The Priory Hotel

146

T

N The Nare No. 131 Norton Park Hotel, Spa & Manor House Number One Bruton

The Queen’s Head

115 154 104 154 145 159 59 59 85 71 45 45 86 72 48 60

Una St Ives

51

V The Vineyard

87

W Watersmeet Hotel The Wellington Arms The Westin London City Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa White Hart Hotel The White Hart Inn Wildhive Callow Hall Wild Rabbit Wild Thyme & Honey The Witchery

51 73 107 118 126 134 148 119 119 159

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The world’s most indulgent down duvets, crafted with Norwegian tradition to transport you to new heights of comfort. Found in the world’s finest hotels norvegr.com

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CRAFTING NATURE’S RARE JEWELS

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