Country & Town House - May/June issue

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A LIFE IN BALANCE

HEY, LAURA

Meet Downton Abbey’s newest cast member

MAY/JUNE 2022 £4.95

A METAVERSE TO CALL HOME Have you bought your virtual property yet?

SKIN DEEP The latest tips and tweaks in our Aesthetic Guide

Going Platinum

ETON MESS

Dillibe Onyeama recalls his school days

A BIG HOORAY FOR HM THE QUEEN

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© 2019 Harry Winston SA. HARRY WINSTON EMERALD

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© 2019 Harry Winston SA. HARRY WINSTON EMERALD

© 2019 Harry Winston SA. HARRY WINSTON EMERALD


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A FA MI LY STO RY

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“ W E ’ R E N OT H E R E TO T RY. W E ’ R E H E R E TO D O.” T O M B R A DY, 7 T I M E S U P E R B OW L C H A M P I O N

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Contents

MAY JUNE 2022

COLUMNS 22 24 192

THE GOOD LIFE Thank goodness Alice B-B is back in BA Business Class THE RURBANIST Amelia Windsor LAST WORD Michael Hayman takes the road less travelled

STYLE 27 28 30 32 34 37

ROYAL RULES Make sure you’ve got the Ascot dress code down pat THE EDIT Style updates MAKE IT REIGN The Queen is the ultimate style influencer THE MAGPIE Jewellery news WELL GROOMED Men’s style WATCH THIS SPACE Simon de Burton on the watches of the hour

HEALTH & WELLBEING 45 46 48 50 52

WELL INTO SUMMER Seasonal prep BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon delights in her furrow-free face BODY & SOUL Keep it British TAKE TEN Eye-spy this season’s palettes BEAUTY BUZZ Nathalie Eleni on how to treat those tricky under-eye areas

CULTURE 57 58 64

66 68 70 72 74

ON HOME TURF Head to Sandringham for a slice of royal life THE CULTURAL CALENDAR What to see, read and do THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey on where to see the best portraits of Her Majesty ARTIST’S STUDIO David Nash LITTLE GREEN BOOK Meet fashion’s fairness fighter, Safia Minney CONSERVATIONIST James Wallace says it’s time for national food sufficiency ROAD TEST Jeremy Taylor picks up speed in the all-electric Mercedes G-Class SCARFES BAR Is there anything Anya Hindmarch can’t do?

FEATURES

THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN Laura Haddock joins the cast of Downton Abbey 84 ON LOCATION Inside the Chelsea Pig 86 DISHING UP THE ROYALS Tom Parker-Bowles on the regal role of food 93 BLACK BOY AT ETON Dillibe Onyeama recalls his less-than-happy school days 96 OPENING YOUR DIGITAL DOORS Would you buy a property in the metaverse? asks Chris Stokel-Walker 100 COTSWOLDS QUEEN Jade Holland Cooper on building her fashion empire 76

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Contents

MAY JUNE 2022

THE AESTHETIC GUIDE 105

Your ultimate insider’s guide to the tweakments, doctors, skincare and supplements to make the best of what nature gave you. Edited by Annabel Jones

INTERIORS 147

148 150 152 154

156

STEEL MAGNOLIAS Delicate flowers? Women who were anything but inspire Diane Hill’s new collection DESIGN NOTES What’s caught Carole Annett’s interiors eye? INSIDER FOCUS Green with envy JUBILEE JOY Mid-century homeware THROUGH THE KALEIDOSCOPE A hotelier’s house is the ultimate tale of the unexpected, says Tallulah Rushaya TREES OF LIFE Randle Siddeley builds a treehouse for grown-ups at The RHS Chelsea Flower Show

HOTELS & TRAVEL 159

162 164

166

CALL OF THE WILD Olivia Palamountain heads off to tantalising Tanzania TANZANIAN DREAMS Four extra special eco lodges A TIME OF GIFTS Emma Inglis stays in the Greek home of writer and adventurer Patrick Leigh Fermor GOING OFF GRID Ten British boltholes for the conscious traveller, as chosen by Richard Hammond

FOOD & DRINK 169 171

TASTE OF SUNSHINE Ameer Kotecha serves up a diplomatic dish GASTRO GOSSIP Foodie news

PROPERTY ON THE COVER Dress, Vivienne Westwood Couture. Necklace with tanzanite and diamond in white gold, Tasaki PREVIOUS PAGE Dress, Giambattista Valli Haute Couture. Earrings with diamonds set in white gold, Graff. Boots, Giambattista Valli

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TEAM Fashion director: Nicole Smallwood; Photographer: Carla Guler; Hair: Halley Brisker at The Wall Group using Color Wow; Make-up: Naoko Scintu at The Wall Group using Armani Beauty

173 174 178 180

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH Live like royalty in a Tudor manor LET’S MOVE TO... Windsor THE GOLDEN AGE Luxury later living FIVE OF THE BEST Country piles fit for a queen

REGULARS 16 18 172

EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS STOCKISTS

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BRITISH LEATHER GOODS WWW.ETTINGER.CO.UK

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the woman who, quite frankly, has stunned and astounded with her dedication to duty. She has been an extraordinary leader through some very dark times, including her own (Prince Andrew, anyone?), and our country will mourn her when she’s gone. So, in homage to Her Majesty, throughout this issue you’ll find many royal touches, from recipes (p169) and style (p27) to books (p61) and events (p58); plus a peek inside the royal kitchens with Tom Parker Bowles who reveals how food has its own very real royal role (p86). Just as the Queen lives in a splendidly large country pile, so too does the fictional Crawley family. The second Downton Abbey film instalment is out now, with a new cast member – our glorious cover girl Laura Haddock. Photographed in another great British institution, the pub (with fish and chips to boot), Laura tells Belinda Bamber just how cheeky Hugh Bonneville really is (p76). Eton is the fabled school attended by Princes William and Harry. Another pupil who went there was Dillibe Onyeama, though I imagine their experiences couldn’t be more polarised; for Dillibe was only the second Black student to attend the prestigious college. His book about his experience has just been republished (thanks to Bernardine Evaristo) – and, from his home back in Nigeria, he recalls those tough Sixties school days (p93). Have you ever wanted to tackle a serious skin complaint, get your wonky teeth aligned or discover if supplements really work? Welcome to our second ever Aesthetic Guide, edited by expert Annabel Jones (from p105) . She and her crack team of testers have done all the hard work so you don’t have to – you’ll find firsthand reviews of the latest non-surgical treatments from the most trusted doctors, whether you’re looking to biostimulate your cells to naturally plump and refine your skin, or to address those ageing dark circles under your eyes. There are also brilliant pieces on the supplements (p111) and skincare products that actually work (p116) and a deep dive into the world of cosmetic dentistry (p125). Finally, if you’ve yet to buy your plot of land in the metaverse, Chris StokelWalker looks into the property possibilities in a virtual world (p96). Me? I’m staying firmly put in the real one... Happy Jubilee!

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Editor’s LETTER

T

his year will perhaps go down in history as the year of the last royal hoorah. With the family so split and social media undermining the allure of these unknowable, untouchable entities, I wonder if we’ll ever again see the likes of the big fat jamboree that’s upcoming to celebrate Her Majesty’s accession to the throne 70 years ago. So I, for one, intend to get out the trestle tables, hang up the bunting and honour

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EDITOR’S PICKS BUY The coolest collab this season sees Ganni team up once more with Ahluwalia on a deadstock denim collection

READ If you want a raucous royal romp, settle down to a gossip fest with Tina Brown’s The Palace Papers – fabulous for watercooler chit-chat. (Century, £20)

PRE-ORDER A SURI Electric Toothbrush – head and bristles are made from plant-based materials and the body from aluminium. What’s more, if you send back your used heads they’ll be recycled for free

TABLESCAPE My trestle tables will look a tad more sophisticated this June with these Wiggle Napkins by Jess Wheeler for Polkra

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CON T R I BU TOR S

Annabel brings us the latest tips and tweaks in The Aesthetic Guide, p105

Would you buy a property in the metaverse? p96

Belinda meets new Downton star Laura Haddock, p76

Tanzania has miles of incredible wilderness to explore, finds Olivia, p159

Annabel Jones

Chris Stokel Walker

Belinda Bamber

Olivia Palamountain

How are you marking the Jubilee? I’ll be sipping Pimms and clinking glasses with my neighbours at our local street party before having supper with friends and family in my garden. What does the Queen mean to you? As a beauty editor I can’t help but admire Her Majesty’s penchant for a cheeky bright lipstick. And she has the best skin of any woman. Where are you escaping this summer? I’ll be exploring Ibiza for two weeks in August, staying at the newly opened Aguas de Ibiza and Oku hotel. Which property would you buy in the metaverse? Erm, none. As a Gen-Xer, embracing the metaverse is like trying to convince me to rewear my 90s low-waisted denim. Not going to happen.

How are you marking the Jubilee? I’ll be spending the summer hoping to enjoy the sun, and keeping my fingers crossed that the weather stays good on jubilee day. What does the Queen mean to you? She’s a sign of tradition for the country. Where are you escaping this summer? I’ll be travelling to the United States, to Florida for 16 days to be exact, for the first time since before the pandemic. Which property would you buy in the metaverse? I’d like to buy a place of my own, far away from the madding crowd. Failing that, I’d commission a metaverse architect to build me a property with a fully playable mini golf course inside of it. Isn’t technology incredible?

How are you marking the Jubilee this summer? We’re having a themed family bake-off competition and celebrating in the garden with tea and colourful bunting. What does the Queen mean to you? The most remarkable woman of our times. We can all learn from her perseverance, dedication to duty and willingness to learn from mistakes. A true hero. Where are you escaping this summer? I’m staying home for a long-anticipated fourgeneration family reunion. Which property would you buy in the metaverse? I’m afraid that if I can’t feel the earth beneath my feet and smell the grass, it’s not for me!

How are you marking the Jubilee this summer? Hiking and wild camping in Scotland with my very own Queen — my Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Luna. What does the Queen mean to you? A lot of fantastic things: stability, sincerity, solidarity and sensible shoes! Where are you escaping this summer? The plan is to visit various friends that live abroad. From hiking in the mountains of Tromsø to moody nights in Tel Aviv and letting loose in LA, it’s shaping up to be quite a summer. Which property would you buy in the metaverse? Is Buckingham Palace for sale? My avatar could host the Queen at her own jubilee.

WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s edit and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter @countryandtown

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Seaton

Earth Green Suede BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON

MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879

Our new Unstructured Collection featuring the SUPERFLEX leather sole, our most flexible sole to date.

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LUCY CLELAND EDITOR

EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM SUB EDITORS & FEATURES ASSISTANTS SOFIA TINDALL & TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITOR KATIE BAMBER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT RUBY FEATHERSTONE FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX JUNIOR ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITER CHARLOTTE RICKARDS ONLINE WRITER CHARLIE COLVILLE ONLINE ASSISTANT SOPHIE BUCKNAL HEAD OF MARKETING DAVID HSU CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER SAMUEL THOMAS FILMMAKER TRACER ITAL ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ELLIE RIX SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER PANDORA LEWIS ACCOUNT MANAGER KATRINA GANE DIGITAL MANAGER ADAM DEAN SALES SUPPORT & OFFICE MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL MANAGER LUIGI BOLOGNA TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND B CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, LYDIA GARD, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, HOLLY RUBENSTEIN, MARCUS SCRIVEN

THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/ countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2022 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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A DRAMA THAT CAN NEVER BE WRITTEN

BE PART OF THE DR A M A

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COLUMN

The GOOD LIFE

Alice B-B jets to the Maldives in BA’s brilliant new business class seats

B

OY, I LOVE BRITISH AIRWAYS. My first long-haul flight after a two-year hiatus and the new Club Suite in business class was just the ticket to ease me back in. The designers have added a nifty sliding door to each seat – so no more worrying that fellow passengers might spot you dribbling, or in your post-red wine kip a wandering knee might wind up blocking the aisle. They’ve also jigsawed the seat configuration so each business class passenger has direct access to the aisle. Previously, if in a window seat, you needed the skills of a show pony to leap your neighbour’s sleeping body to get to the loo. I also had the warmest welcome from onboard staff – maybe it’s because I still have a gold card. Or they just really care about their passengers. I had a good old natter with flight attendant Anne-Marie while raiding the snacks for a midnight feast. Later when she spotted me sobbing (the funeral bit in Four Weddings – gets me every time), she appeared with a wad of tissues. Hooray for BA – I’ve darned well missed you. THE ALGORITHM IS DOOLALLY. Daily emails suggesting that I might like to wear a bra-top, cut-out dress, or some stonking heels. Net-a-Porter has clearly got the wrong woman… Particularly galling as I’m having a Nora Ephron I Feel Bad About My Neck moment. (If you haven’t read the book – do.) Although frankly my neck is the least of my problems. Because the time has come. The pendulum has swung and there are now more body parts I’d like to cover than reveal. It’s farewell to my old friends: the backless dresses, slutty skirts and vest tops that require zero bra (so sad as braless is SUCH a good feeling). However, my waning youth obviously means I’m now incredibly wise. What a fucker that apparently you can’t have both... NO SUNSET PIÑA COLADA. That’s the only hard part of staying at Joali Being in the Maldives. But once you’ve got over this little glitch then the new resort – an island entirely devoted to wellness – is genius. Whether you want to work on mind, skin, microbiome or energy, a personalised programme is drawn up. And then you can be as busy or as lazy as you like. Although Joali Being is beautifully designed and has the latest technology from cryotherapy to sound healing beds, I believe it’s their crack team of therapists that are the key to the resort’s success. Which is why, when I got on the plane home feeling recharged, refreshed, looser in my jeans – frankly ready for anything – I didn’t miss that cocktail one bit. 

THIS MONTH I’LL BE...

READING psychotherapist Julia Samuel’s book Every Family Has a Story (Penguin Life, 14.99). SMEARING my eyes in Dr Maryam Zamani’s Soothe & Smooth complex (mzskin. com). NECKING a pint with my old chum Piers Adam at his new pub, The Walmer Castle (walmercastlenottinghill.co.uk).

ILLUSTRATION BY MEI MEI, @MEIMEI_2503

‘I’m having a NORA EPHRON “I Feel Bad About My NECK” moment. Although frankly my neck is the least of my PROBLEMS...’

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INTERVIEW

The RURBANIST

Amelia Windsor on cold water therapy, being Lara Croft and dancing the summer away

What’s bringing you joy at the moment?

Watching spring arrive, with the blossom, the earlier sunrise and brighter skies. Whose mind do you wish you could change?

Many world leaders... Advice you’d give to your 15-year-old self?

Love your body more and be kinder to it. What could you have been arrested for?

If I told you I would have to kill you... Best life hack you can share with us?

Ice cold showers in the morning to boost your mental and physical health. Country or city? I love the sea and the peace of the countryside, but I also love the buzz of the city and the many opportunities to dance. Where do you go to get away from it all? Home with my parents. Walking around Grantchester Meadows, eating a yummy roast on Sunday and taking years to find something to watch on Netflix. Reading all the weekend newspapers and listening to Radio 4. Sleeping like a baby in my own bed. What are you most looking forward to? A long hot summer full of

dancing with my friends. You wouldn’t know it but…

Amelia Windsor; her literary hero Zadie Smith; Camber Sands in Sussex

I used to play the cello really well. The book you wished you’d written? Anything by Zadie Smith,

but I’d be paying myself far too big a compliment to think I could ever write like that. Her books are pure magic; I learn a lot from reading them. The film you wished you’d starred in?

Lara Croft – she’s pretty bad ass. Your greatest failure? Nothing is a failure... Only a lesson! Your epitaph would read...

AMELIA LOVES SCENT Armani Privé Bois d’Encens. BOX SET High Fidelity with Zoë Kravitz. CHOCOLATE BAR Ombar 100 per cent cacao. SONG Anything by Tems. DISH Coconut and turmeric dahl. GADGET Dr Dennis LED mask. RESTAURANT Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. HOLIDAY Camber Sands in Sussex on a really hot day.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK

Keep on dancing.

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STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy

Royal Rules STYLIST: RACHEL BAKEWELL; PHOTOGRAPHER: TUNG WALSH

Style for the social season

Summer is around the corner and the social season is well under way. Our highlight? Royal Ascot, of course, which is also the Queen’s favourite – she’s been attending it for over 70 years and has appeared in more than 260 processions. As always, the rule is dress to impress – and make sure you check the official style code first. ascot.com

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STYLE | Shopping

The

EDIT All the latest style news. By Mariella Tandy

BEAUTY BUYS

Three new finds for your dressing table

Step into summer in one of Raquel Diniz’s party-perfect dresses, combining Brazilian flair with Italian craftsmanship. Simply beautiful. Dress, £845. raqueldiniz.it

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S

1 Royal Fern Radiance Protection face mist. £36, royalfern.com 2 Rose Inc Satin lip colour in Coquettish. £28, spacenk.com 3 Estée Lauder Beautiful Magnolia Intense eau de parfum. £76 for 50ml, harrods.com

RIO SUNSETS

This season London designer Hayley Menzies takes inspiration from the spirit of Rio de Janeiro to create a collection of shimmering jacquard dresses and colourful knit cardigans. Dress, £590. hayleymenzies.com

Tiffany & Co.’s exhibition Vision & Virtuosity comes to the Saatchi Gallery this June with an extraordinary display of jewels, craftsmanship and creativity. Over 400 archive pieces will go on display, following the jeweller’s journey from its founding by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1837, through to its recently acquired whopping 80ct Empire Diamond. 10 June to 19 Aug. tiffany.com

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LIVING FOR THE WEEKEND

Alessandra Rich Tweed jacket, £1,420; skirt, £530. matchesfashion.com

Reformation Nicky two-piece set. £285, reformation.com

Weekend Max Mara’s latest collaboration with superstar stylist Gabriella KarefaJohnson brings us bright pieces and accessories all with a cinematic twist and a Seventies vibe. From £80, maxmara.com

Lelet Coco headband. £145, leletny.com

COME ONE, COME ALL

Chanel Black boater hat. £1,580, chanel.com

Joseph has collaborated with Love Welcomes, a social enterprise supporting refugees, on a limited-edition handcrafted four-piece capsule collection launching this May. Made from surplus silk, the collection is the latest produced under the successful Waste Project that Joseph launched in 2020. Slides, £280. joseph.com

ON THE RADAR

Stay chic in the heat in summer tweed

Maje Waistcoat. £249, maje.com

Saint Laurent Tweed mules. £565, matchesfashion.com

Andrew Gn Coat. £2,765, netaporter.com

Annoushka’s new charms for summer are all about celebration – and none more so than this limited-edition jubilee corgi crafted in recycled 18ct gold with diamonds, red agate and ruby. £3,900, annoushka.com May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 29

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STYLE | Trend

TASAKI Queen Elizabeth’s ring, £3,990

SABINA SAVAGE Scarf, £265 BARBOUR X HOUSE OF HACKNEY Sigdon jacket, £179

ALESSANDRA RICH Dress, £1,690, alessandrarich.com

OMNEQUE Boucheron brooch, £6,000

CLAUDIE PIERLOT Jacket, £379; Shorts, £219

CROCKETT & JONES Julia, £480

EMILIA WICKSTEAD Aisha dress, £1,165

Make It REIGN

The Queen has been influencing fashion for 80 years. This summer, put a contemporary twist on her classic style signatures

REALLY WILD Tweed jacket, £425

BURBERRY Camden car coat, £1,490

CORNELIA JAMES Annabel gloves, £135

RACHEL TREVORMORGAN Hat, £POA

GUCCI Pumps, £670

ALIGHIERI La Calliope necklace, £250

PHOTOS: FOR STOCKISTS PLEASE SEE P172

ASPINAL OF LONDON Mayfair bag, £595

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LEATHER FOOTWEAR | ACCESSORIES | CLOTHING FAIRFAXANDFAVOR.COM

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STYLE | Jewellery BEAN THERE, DONE THAT

The organic beauty of renowned Tiffany designer Elsa Peretti’s famous bean motif comes alive in a new collection that features materials like handcarved green jade, lacquered Japanese hardwood and silk. tiffany.co.uk

DOUBLE TROUBLE

Pomellato’s much-coveted Nudo collection has been updated for 2022 with these double drop earrings available in an array of the brand’s most popular stones: blue topaz, white topaz and rose quartz. Double drop earrings from £6,200. pomellato.com

Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Bean design ring in 18ct yellow gold with diamonds, £3,450; Elsa Peretti Bean design pendant in green jade and 18ct yellow gold, £875

The Magpie It’s a new era for some of the jewellery world’s most iconic motifs and names, says Mariella Tandy

TRUE COLOURS

Three bright and beautiful pieces 1 Brent Neale Magic Mushroom pendant. £5,725, netaporter.com 2 Rainbow K Bracelet. £6,025, matchesfashion.com

3 Emily P Wheeler I Heart Rainbows bracelet in 18ct yellow gold with rainbow sapphires. £13,747, emilypwheeler.com

DAISY DREAM

It’s the meeting of two Danish design superstars, one a legacy brand and one an up-and-coming name to watch. Georg Jensen and Stine Goya have joined forces to reimagine the former’s famous Daisy collection with an all-new ultra-modern design and a fresh pastel colour palette. Necklace, £1,675. georgjensen.com; stinegoya.com

WE HEART NY

New York-by-way-of-Sweden jewellery designer Annika Inez is known for her sculptural, organic shapes, inspired by her home country’s open landscapes. Heart earrings, £205. matchesfashion.com

(RE)LOCATION, (RE)LOCATION, (RE)LOCATION

After 25 years at 169 Fulham Road, Theo Fennell is opening a shiny new flagship salon and studio in Chelsea Barracks this May. The move marks an exciting new chapter for the British jeweller, who bought back his company from investors in July last year, and who has also just released a hilarious memoir, I Fear For This Boy (Mensch, £25), with nail-biting tales from his adventurous formative years. A must read. theofennell.com

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STYLE | Men’s LOAFING AROUND MEET THY MAKERS

The silhouettes of Private White VC’s classic Maker’s jackets are inspired by traditional British workwear, modernised by the brand’s design team and fabricated by local artisans. Maker’s jacket, £495. privatewhitevc.com

Well Groomed

Ideal for dressing up or down, the new Bedingfeld II loafer from Fairfax & Favor is meticulously finished with contrasting stitched tassel. The dual rubber/ leather sole features a classic gentlemen’s corner while a memory foam inner sole ensures maximum loafing comfort. £165, fairfaxandfavor.com

JUBILATION! Invest in some timeless accessories to celebrate in style this season

Matt Thomas scrubs up for the Jubilee

SMOKING HOT

Linley’s elegant Blackline Fumed Humidor in anegre wood includes an engravable sterling silver plaque on the lid and maintains a stable humidity through an in-built humidifying system and hygrometer that supports the cigar’s ageing process by keeping air moist. £2,495, davidlinley.com

ANNIVERSARY TIME

Audemars Piguet releases an array of Royal Oak 50th anniversary models this year. These new references present subtle evolutions in case, bracelet and dial design. From £60,400, audemarspiguet.com

SCENTS OF SUMMER 1 LOCK & CO Oxford boater. £265, lockhatters.com 2 BEGGXCO Wispy square ‘Dandy’. £185, beggxco.com Acqua di Parma Colonia Club. £116, johnlewis.com

Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir For Him. From £56, johnlewis.com

3 FAVOURBROOK Cream Belvoir waistcoat. £340, favourbrook.com Gabar No II Ground. £120, gabarmyanmar.com

Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Cobalt. £82, selfridges.com

4 DUKE + DEXTER Christie Capri sneakers. £220, dukeanddexter.com

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Watches | STYLE

WATCH

THIS SPACE What’s ticking in the world of watches? Simon de Burton finds out

THESE SHOULD TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

Pilot watch specialist IWC has gone potty for tough, scratchresistant ceramic this season, introducing three new designs in the chronograph range created in partnership with the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Programme – better known (thanks to Tom Cruise) as ‘Top Gun’. Two 44.5mm models comprise a green case and dial version called ‘Woodland’ that’s inspired by the pilot’s flight suits and a second with a white case and matching rubber strap based on ‘the winter landscape of the Lake Taho training area’. The third is an all-black, 41mm piece made from a ceramic blend called ‘Ceratanium’. Each watch was developed with the help of the Pantone colour matching system. The Ceratanium model costs £11,000, the others £9,350. iwc.com

IWC Pilots Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition ‘Woodland’, £9,350

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Carl F Bucherer Hometown Heritage BiCompax annual calendar chronographs, from £5,500

YOU ‘AVEN’ ME ON? THAT’S NO BANKSY

A TALE OF TWO CITIES? NO, 16...

Whether you live in Basel or Beijing, London or Lucerne, the Carl F Bucherer brand is likely to have a watch for you among its new Hometown range of Heritage BiCompax annual calendar chronographs. The special editions, which will be made in just 88 examples apiece, celebrate 16 capitals around the world with each model featuring a different city skyline or landmark engraved on its sapphire crystal case back and gradient dials in either yellow, brown, burgundy, green or mint. £5,500, bucherer.com

Harry Winston Avenue Classic Graffiti, £POA

Those diamond geezers over at Harry Winston have introduced the famous, rectangular-cased ‘Avenue’ watch to its New York collection of items inspired by elements of the Big Apple. The new Avenue Classic Graffiti is available in three limited-edition versions that ‘capture the vibrant colours and arti influences of SoHo’ by spelling out the great man’s name in precious stones. Choose from pink and blue or blue and white mother-of-pearl dials in cases set with pink and blue sapphires, or a blue and white MOP dial in a case set with brilliant cut diamonds. Just 30 of each will be available, so get your skates on. Prices are on application (i.e. not cheap). harrywinston.com

FLAG IT UP

Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Ukraine, £5,500

Leading luxury watch brands across the board responded to the war in Ukraine by boycotting Russia — but the first to create a timepiece specifically in support of the embattled country was the small, independent maker Linde Werdelin. The Danishowned, Swiss-made sports watch producer revealed the design for its 3 Timer Ukraine edition just 10 days after the invasion began. Featuring a dial and strap in the blue and yellow of the Ukrainian flag, the watch is limited to 33 examples and costs £5,500, with all profits going to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal. lindewerdelin.com

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Watches | STYLE RING DEM BELLS

Chopard Full Strike Sapphire, £POA

Chopard is celebrating 25 years since the opening of its high watchmaking LUC division with a minute repeating wrist watch called the Full Strike Sapphire. Featuring a case hewn from a solid block of sapphire in a process that takes 190 hours, the 42.5mm watch sounds the hours, quarters and minutes using sapphire gongs attached to its protective crystal. The use of sapphire for the case and gongs is said to give an especially loud and clear chime to the minute repeater, which is activated by pushing a button set into the winding crown. Just five will be made, each £POA. LUC, by the way, stands for Louis Ulysse Chopard, the Swiss watchmaker who founded the brand in 1860. chopard.com

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 in white gold, £30,060

Rolex GMT Master II, from £8,800

THAT’S A BIT SINISTER...

Watch websites were awash with speculation about what mighty Rolex would release at this year’s Watches & Wonders – but even the top pundits failed to predict that the revered brand would go totally left field and bring out a version of one of its classic models with the crown on the ‘wrong’ side. The GMT-Master dual time zone watch was created for trans-Atlantic pilots in 1955 – but never before has it been produced with a left-hand winding crown and date window. This is also the first GMTMaster with a green and black bezel. £8,800 on Oyster bracelet; £9,000 on Jubilee. rolex.com

FROM LITTLE ACORNS

THANK YOU, AND GOOD KNIGHT

Patek Philippe’s Calatrava wristwatches first appeared 90 years ago and are named after the ornate cross used by Spain’s crusading Calatrava knights of the 12th century. The symbol was also adopted by Patek as its trademark, signifying the importance of the Calatrava models — despite the fact that they are regarded merely as a gateway to the high-end brand’s pricier offerings. But even top collectors are clamouring to get hold of this latest Calatrava, the white gold Ref. 5226G that features an all-new case decorated with a hobnail pattern and strap lugs that are an integral part of the back. The superb dial, meanwhile, has a textured finish inspired by old camera bodies and the syringe-style hands and numerals get a buff finish for a distinctly vintage vibe. Not cheap for a simple three-hander — but an heirloom watch if ever there was one... £30,060, patek.com

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin, £27,900

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has become one of the most collectable sports watches of all time – and the hype surrounding it is currently at an all-time high due to this year marking half-a-century since the original Oak sprang up at the 1972 Baselworld watch fair. Designer Gerald Genta’s early sketch for the watch sold at auction for a remarkable SFR 564,500 in February (bought for the Audemars Piguet museum) and the brand has, inevitably, launched a slew of models to celebrate the 50th anniversary. Among the best are the 39mm Reference 16202 versions that most closely resemble the original Jumbo version but have an all-new movement and special 50th winding rotors. A steel one costs £27,900, yellow or pink gold, £59,400. audemarspiguet.com

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Watches | STYLE

HOW PASH IS THAT?

Cartier has turned back the clock to re-work one of its most unusual watches, the Pasha de Cartier waterproof sports model that was originally created in 1985. Penned by Gerald Genta as a tribute to the late Pasha Thami el Glaoui of Marrakech — a Cartier client for 30 years — the stand-out design incorporated a metal grille to protect the dial and a screwdown crown covered with a cabochon cap attached by a miniature chain. The new Pashas have tiny spring clips that enable the grilles to be removed for a more versatile look and are now available in a range of previously unseen configurations, including moonphase, skeleton and flying tourbillon models. There is also a Pasha chronograph with an anthracite dial and a selection of jewellery pieces with 30mm and 35mm cases. Prices start at £7,700 for the 41mm three-hand model in steel. cartier.com

Tudor Black Bay Pro, £3,080 on a steel bracelet Pasha de Cartier Moon Phases watch, £17,600 (left); Pasha de Cartier skeleton watch, £23,700

COULD THEY BE ANY MORE PACIFIC?

TUDOR THOUGHT IT

Tudor pulled a blinder with the launch of the Heritage Black Bay a decade ago. A 21st-century re-take on the original Submariner of 1954, it combined retro looks with modern-day reliability at an affordable price – and has been selling by the truck load ever since. To keep things fresh, the brand has introduced numerous variations on the theme every year, the latest being the Black Bay Pro which combines a 39mm case with a fixed, 24-hour bezel and a secondary hour hand to provide a dual time zone function. It is, therefore, an easier-to-obtain, less expensive alternative to the Rolex Explorer II. It costs just £2,840 on a fabric or leather and rubber strap, or £3,080 on a steel bracelet. Buy, buy, buy... tudorwatch.com

Marloe Watch Company Pacific 76, £975

There is certainly no shortage of British watch brands right now, but few can match Marloe in the value-for-money stakes. Launched on Kickstarter in January 2015 by marketing consultant, Oliver Goffe, and draughtsman, Gordon Fraser, it specialises in well-made, hand-wound watches designed in Perth, Scotland. It’s new premium line is called Pacific and comprises four models inspired by various eras of the jet age: the 52 (based on the de Havilland Comet); the 55 (for jet-setting business types); the 66 (blackened in the manner of a stealth aircraft) and the 76 (a tribute to Concorde). All measure 40mm in diameter, use Swiss-made Sellita movements and have transparent case backs. £975, marloewatchcompany.com

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A Tradition of Safari since 1812. Explore our artisanal leather goods and outdoor clothing collections.

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Watches | STYLE FANCY SOME HERB?

Michel Herbelin Cap Camarat, £1,350

AVAST BEHIND

Michel Herbelin was founded by the man himself in 1947 as IMPEC (for ‘impeccable’). It changed to Michel Herbelin in 1965, and has sold more than 10 million watches to date. The brand has recently re-launched a new version of one its best-known models, the Cap Camarat. Named after the lighthouse near St Tropez, it features a porthole-style bezel and a neat nautical blue dial stamped with deck-like horizontal stripes. A GMT function displays local time and home time, the latter by means of a secondary, red hour hand that points to a 24-hour city scale on the inner rotating bezel. It’s limited to 500 examples and costs £1,350. michel-herbelin.com

Rado made a name for itself exactly 60 years ago with the introduction of the world’s first scratchproof watch, the DiaStar. It went on to pioneer the use of other high-tech materials, including ceramic and plasma ceramic — but the watch that sends vintage Rado fans all gooey is the Captain Cook, a revival of a dive model originally launched in 1968. This latest version combines the classic look with a case and bracelet made from plasma ceramic and has all the features necessary for it to pass ISO certification for professional use. It’s good value, too. £3,255, rado.com

Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition, £3,995

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Diver, £3,255

SPORTING WOOD, ARE WE?

WHAT A SPIFFING WHEEZE

Real life Boy’s Own heroes Nick and Giles English – the duo behind brillo British watch brand Bremont – have joined forces with equally patriotic timepiece customiser George Bamford to create a special edition of the Bremont Supermarine Diver. Blackened with Bamford’s signature DLC toughened coating (the formula for which is, excitingly, known only to military types), the watch can survive a dunking at a shark-infested 500 metres beneath the waves and is fitted with a strap made from no-nonsense sailcloth. But you’d better buck-up, chaps – just 250 will be made. £3,995, bremont.com

William Wood Watches Triumph Heat Edition £2,495

William Wood was founded by entrepreneur Jonny Garrett in 2017 with £25,000 raised on Kickstarter. It’s named after his firefighter grandfather, and incorporates recycled firemen’s kit, with brass crowns and caseback medallions made from melted-down vintage helmets and straps cut from repurposed hoses. A percentage of sales goes to firefighting charities. The Heat Edition chronograph combines a clever and original dial design with excellent legibility and robust build. The transparent back marked with the legend, ‘In case of fire, break glass’ makes for an amusing touch. £2,495, williamwoodwatches.com 

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REGENT ST • HARRODS • SELFRIDGES

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Resort Bag & Atlanta Sunglasses

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HEALTH&

PHOTO: KATE DAVIS-MACLEOD; HAIR & MAKEUP: CAMILLA HEWITT USING NARS AND DAVINES

WELLBEING

Well into summer

Prep your routine for the change of season, says Camilla Hewitt

This halfway point in the year is the perfect time to reassess your routine. As we move into a new season we should pay attention to what we eat and how we move so that we stay feeling cool, calm and collected. Holidays and hot weather can disrupt healthy eating, exercise routines, sleep patterns and how much we socialise with others. Consider cooking with lighter foods that are easier to digest or slow down your movement to cool your internal temperature. Vest, £140. filippa-k. com; bikini bottoms, £90. taliacollins.co.uk

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Lifestyle Ouronyx’s super-chic interiors will help put you at ease

MIND & MATTER

Life’s little luxuries

SCULPT Spanx in liquid form. The good doctor has hit a home run with a luxuriously rich formula that tones the skin yet easily absorbs without fuss. Dr Sebagh Supreme Body Restructuring & Firming Cream, £130. drsebagh.com

BODY LANGUAGE

Olivia Falcon gets her pre-Covid face back at Ouronyx

I

t was a winter that would have aged even Dorian Gray; standard gloomy weather, not enough good shows to watch on Netflix (due to the Christmas TV binge) and newspapers and newsfeeds decidedly unjolly. So when the clocks went forward with officially more daylight hours to scrutinise skin texture, I decided to put away my magnifying mirror and seek professional help at Ouronyx, a high-end clinic set in a former bank in London’s St James. Boasting cavernous interiors, statement staircases and interactive digital art works, it feels more like a billionaire’s bachelor pad than a starchy clinic, which if you have a nervous disposition is a good thing. The lift that used to bring up the money now carries beauty insiders who want rejuvenation without retribution. The doctors here are purists; they don’t do lasers or bogus body slimming treatments that don’t work, just impeccably seamless injectable treatments that, I can tell you right now, really do. My weary face was scanned by the Cherry system, a hightech facial scanning device that gives both the patient and the doctor a 3D view of what’s going on; it shows the depth

of wrinkles, loss of volume and on follow up visits it’s a great tool to analyse in detail your progression and results. Ouronyx boasts a diversity of skilled doctors and I chose to see Dr Marco Nicoloso, a restoration man, who’ll give you back the face you had pre-Covid rather than make you a weird inflated version of yourself. He prescribed some perfectly en pointe Botox that gently lifted my brows and softened the concertina scowl on my forehead. He also told me of a new Autologous Micrografting hair loss treatment (AMT) that I’m interested in for my husband – it’s essentially a repair system for thinning hair. It takes tiny skin grafts from the hairline between the ear and the neck that are harvested for progenitor cells, stem cells and growth factors and then injected back into sparse areas. Unlike PRP treatments that can be very painful and require multiple treatments, only one AMT is needed, and patchy areas of scalp should feel thicker in about three months. Before I leave, I am seconded to a special make-up station where the tiny tell-tale pinpricks from the needle are expertly camouflaged with mineral makeup. Jackpot – I do a double take in the mirror at my happier, furrow-free face. ouronyx.com 

CLEANSE A refillable, eco-friendly hand sanitiser that not only smells sensational but is enriched with ceramides, ginseng and aloe vera, helping to lock in moisture into dry skin while deeply cleaning the hands. Never Go Alone sanitising mist, £20. nevergoalone.com

SPRITZ A consciously crafted fragrance for those that like unusual floral bouquets. Think jasmine and cherry blossom blended with a bioidentical note of sandalwood, (a more eco friendly option than its natural counterpart). Medeau Evening Blush eau de parfum, £95. medeaufragrances.com

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G reen H e a rt s i n S u n A new collection unfolds

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness

Body & SOUL

Five British brands for a spectacular summer. By Camilla Hewitt

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AGUA AT SEA CONTAINERS

This summer, renowned spa Agua at Sea Containers will introduce Hedgerow, a line of sustainable house-made products that will be incorporated into treatments. Seasonal ingredients, such as dog rose, lime blossom and chamomile, will encourage a feeling of balance and rest through their cooling and anti-inflammatory properties. seacontainerslondon.com

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RURAL KIND

An hour at the allotment works wonders for the mind and body. Gardening can expend similar amounts of energy to a session at the gym, shift our focus away from ourselves and our stresses, and provide pickings rich in vitamins and minerals. Handmade in Wales, the Rural Kind harvesting bag is perfect for loading up with your chosen bounty. ruralkind.com

PIGLET IN BED

Nothing promotes wellbeing more than a sound night’s sleep. During the summer months prolonged hours of natural light and stuffier weather can make falling asleep a challenge. Sleeping in and on natural fibres will aid body temperature regulation, and Piglet in Bed, launched from a garden shed, specialises in breathable, beautiful bed-linens that feel as good as they look. pigletinbed.com

DAVY J

3

Wild swimming is one of the best ways to lower energy from the brain to the body and the environment around you, bringing your whole being into balance. Using 100 per cent regenerated nylon yarn, Davy J’s active swimwear is double-lined for strength and durability. davyj.com

BAMFORD

Great British wellbeing brand, Bamford, has launched its Explorer candle collection. Hand made in the UK, each artisan candle is encased in alabaster. Known as a protective stone, it is said to instil calm, strength and spiritual healing. From £100. bamford.com

5

4

« CHECK IN: WATERGATE BAY HOTEL, CORNWALL Set on a two-mile stretch of sandy beach in north Cornwall, Watergate Bay Hotel is the place for a contemporary British beach holiday. Inspired by its location, the hotel has developed an ethos of ‘active relaxation’ – striking a balance between getting outdoors, being social and finding some quiet. Inside a 25-metre infinity pool blurs the boundary between the beach and the hotel. Step outside and there is a traditional Canadian hot tub, Finnish sea view sauna and surf-in/surf-out access. BOOK IT: Beach Loft from £545 per night. watergatebay.co.uk

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Take Ten

PALETTE PERFECTION Must-haves for a truly beautiful summer. By Nathalie Eleni

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Dear Dahlia Mesmerizing Moment eye palette This eight-shade eye palette is infused with patented dahlia flower extract, said to have antioxidant and anti-ageing properties. £48, deardahlia.eu

Valentino Beauty Colour Flip eye palette With highly pigmented and easy-to-blend formulations, this two-tier palette comes complete with satin, matte, shimmer, base and flattering reflective hues. £82, selfridges.com

Dior 5 Couleurs Couture Dioriviera eye palette Get the perfect golden-hour glow with Dior’s five shades of champagne copper, peachy pink, white gold, satin plum bronze and velvet brown. £50, dior.com

Hourglass Ambient Lighting powder palette A shimmering trio that uses photoluminescent technology to highlight, bronze and add a peachy glow to cheeks, filtering and refining the complexion. £61, hourglasscosmetics.co.uk RMS Beauty Signature Set palette All of RMS’s cult-favourite products, with the Master Mixer highlighter, the Living Luminizer glow formula, two Lip2cheek shades, and the Simply Cocoa Lip & Skin Balm. £46, naturisimo.com

Westman Atelier Lip Suede palette With nourishing jojoba oil and volume-boosting peptides to leave your lips conditioned and plumped with a sheer, hydrated finish. £78, cultbeauty.co.uk Sculpted by Aimee Sultry Stories eye palette Wearable and flattering earthy tones that take you from day to night, using make-up artist Aimee Connolly’s simple process. £34, sculptedbyaimee.com

Kjaer Weis The Cheek Collective palette Featuring a choice of bestselling colours and new universally flattering shades, these creamy, blendable textures create a natural and pretty skin finish. £62, netaporter.com

Victoria Beckham Beauty Smoky Eye Brick palette This softly smoky eyeshadow palette gives a luxurious, cashmere finish to eye lids – it’s a dream to apply. £50, victoriabeckhambeauty.com

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

Pat McGrath Belle of the Ball eye palette Inspired by Bridgerton, this limited-edition palette contains six Regency-esque eye shadows, from velvety matte plum to a luminous pale rose gold. £50, patmcgrathlabs.com

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HEALTH & WELLBEING | News

Beauty BUZZ Nathalie Eleni has all the new names and addresses to know

WORD OF MOUTH

Fuller lips without the filler? We’ve got you. With 25 years’ experience, expert aesthetician Tracie Giles has personally developed her unique Gloss & Go semi-permanent lip tattooing treatment to achieve beautifully shaped, tinted and volumised lips – without a syringe in sight. She uses digital technology and perfectly selected pigment to give the illusion of fuller, more contoured lips. Results last between nine and 18 months. From £595, traciegiles.co.uk

RIVERSIDE WELLNESS

Escape city life for a glorious 24 hours at The Westin, the Marriott’s thousandth hotel opening across Europe, the Middle East and Africa. It has a brilliant riverside location underneath the spire of St Paul’s Cathedral, with views over to Shakespeare’s Globe and Tate Modern, and features a beautifully designed modern spa to zone out in. After a splash in the pool, treat yourself to the Heavenly Spa’s Philosophia Botanica Meridian Flow Golden facial, available exclusively at The Westin, for 90 minutes of pure bliss and plumped, sculpted and lifted skin. Before you hit the hay, have at nightcap at Hithe + Seek – the hotel’s wine bar with panoramic views of the Thames. From £309 per room, marriott.co.uk

BLONDES HAVE MORE FUN

The talented duo at the Jo Hansford salon in Mayfair, Colour Director Taylor Ward, and Senior Stylist Michaela Galvin, are every blonde’s new best friends. Taylor’s specialist technique and colour designing results in the most seamless, bespoke blonde of your dreams. Then it’s over to Michaela, who cuts with precision to keep hair healthy, before applying a specialist keratin treatment that smooths and protects. The result? The most glorious hair of your dreams. Half head colour, from £350; cut, £130; keratin treatment, from £150. johansford.com

HOW TO… TREAT THE UNDER-EYE AREA Brighten and refresh your under-eye area by using lymphatic drainage movements while applying your eye cream. Start from the inner corners and gently pat outwards with a very light pressure to help drain the lymph, which can cause puffiness. To treat fine lines, use Luna Microcare’s clever Eternal eye-zone patches, loaded with active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and marine extract to smooth fine lines and improve hydration, skin thickness and density, while also boosting collagen. £120 for a month’s supply. lunamicrocare.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

EXPERT ADVICE FROM OUR BEAUTY DIRECTOR

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CELEBRATING THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE As we celebrate an unprecedented 70 years of Queen Elizabeth the Second’s reign, we turn from one great British institution to another. Liberty’s iconic prints with their exuberant use of colour and playful wending patterns perfectly capture the sense of timeless style and grace that our monarch has come to represent over her many decades on the throne. Visit us in-store or online to explore our full collection of Liberty prints in a dazzling array of exclusive creations including shirts, dressess, skirts & accessories, all made in premium cotton tana lawn and embodying the high standards of quality and style you’ll find throughout our country clothing range.

LIBERTY PRINT RUCHE COLLAR SHIRT TN07507 | £79.95 (Available in 5 colours)

To order call 01796 483 236 or visit our website

www.houseofbruar.com The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW

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IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE INSPIRATIONAL CREATIVIT Y OF THE GREATEST NAMES IN DESIGN AND DECORATION AT THE DESIGN CENTREʼS FIRST-EVER SHOWHOUSE

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YOU ARE INVITED TO WOW! THIS JUNE

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PHOTO: ©SANDRINGHAM ESTATE, JARROLD PUBLISHING, RICHARD TILBROOK

CULTURE

On Home Turf

Momentous celebrations are taking place this spring and summer for the Platinum Jubilee. Where better to join in than at HM’s country retreat, Sandringham? Journey through the past ten years of royal life at the estate with its new exhibition (on until 13 October), or roll out a picnic rug for the al fresco musical spectacle on 3 June. sandringhamestate.co.uk

Sandringham’s new exhibition chronicles the last decade of royal life at the estate

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CULTURE | What’s On

Eleventh by Lina Iris Viktor (2018)

THE CULTURAL CALENDAR Get out and about with these dates for your diary, says Sofia Tindall

PICTURE THIS

FOR QUEEN & COUNTRY

Buckingham Palace joins Sandringham and Windsor Castle’s Jubilee action with its own exhibition, Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession. On display will be remarkable portraits of Elizabeth II by Dorothy Wilding, and a resplendent tiara gifted as a wedding present to Her Majesty. 22 July to 2 Oct. rct.uk

LET IT SHINE

Groove Armada, Django Django, Yuval Noah Harari and Richard Dawkins headline How The Light Gets In, a music and philosophy festival taking place on the banks of the bucolic River Wye from 2-5 June. howthelightgetsin.org

SWEET TALK

The new technicolour utopia at Kew by artists Pip & Pop is sweet enough to give you toothache. Created with Kew scientists, the food fantasia questions the future of crop diversity, displaying fascinating new uses of edible plants and underutilised species. 21 May to 5 March 2023. kew.org

MAKING MAGIC

Makers and artisans will be taking over the capital for over 300 events across London Craft Week. Drop in for an exhibition, or perhaps try your hand at something new in a workshop? 9-15 May. londoncraftweek.com

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PHOTOS: MARY PEREZ; BILLIE CHARITY

The Reel Store is Coventry’s newest realityaltering digital art gallery in the city centre. Artist Refik Anadol takes the space for a test drive with Machine Memoirs: Space, a collaboration with NASA travelling to the deepest reaches of space through immersive photography. 13 May to 5 Nov. coventry2021.co.uk

PHOTOS: MARY PEREZ; BILLIE CHARITY; DOROTHY WILDING, HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II (1952)

STARS IN YOUR EYES

Dedicated to the work of Black artists who address racial injustice through alternative realities, In the Black Fantastic at the Hayward Gallery delves into the evolving genre of Afrofuturism. Look out for works by Tabita Rezaire, Hew Locke and Rashaad Newsome. 29 June to 18 Sept. southbankcentre.co.uk


The Critical LIST

Big releases for spring

Six-time Oscar nominee Amy Adams will make her first appearance in the West End this year, starring in a new production of The Glass Menagerie by Tennessee Williams. From 31 May 2022

THEATRE THE C&TH GUIDE TO…

HAY FESTIVAL

The Queen’s 70-year reign is being charted across 250 images in Her Majesty The Queen: The Official Platinum Jubilee Pageant Commemorative Album, with Tom Parker Bowles. St James House, £49.95

The annual literature festival is back. Here’s what to bookmark...

BOOK

AND THE PRIZE GOES TO...

Bernardine Evaristo, the first Black female winner of the Booker Prize, takes to the Baillie Gifford stage on 4 June to discuss her new book Manifesto, an account of her journey as a writer and activist. She’ll also be dissecting topical issues of race, class, and feminism. Not yet had your fill of Booker alumni? Damon Galgut, winner of the 2021 prize, will be discussing The Promise on 29 May. Don’t miss it. PHOTOS: MARY PEREZ; BILLIE CHARITY

PHOTOS: MARY PEREZ; BILLIE CHARITY; DOROTHY WILDING, HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II (1952)

S

et on the edge of the majestic Brecon Beacons National Park, the annual Hay Festival might be the only event where you can drift from dozing on deckchairs one moment to enthralling talks by leading writers, environmentalists, and Nobel Prize winners the next. Now in its 35th year with an additional new theatre venue in the grounds of restored Hay Castle, the festival continues to draw the greatest minds for 11 days of illuminating events.

music programme. The ‘First Lady of Folk’ Kate Rusby will perform on the Baillie Gifford stage on 26 May. Expect to also hear the melodic sounds of Corinne Bailey Rae and Penguin Café floating over the crowds.

FAMILY FUN... Designed to inspire and

engage enquiring young minds, Haydays is the Hay’s family-friendly programme. Based in the Courtyard, this is the chance for children to get stuck into creative activities and workshops, listen to celebrated authors and meet their heroes from the fields of illustration, comedy and more.

CAPTURE THE CASTLE... Hay Castle’s newly opened grounds make the most atmospheric backdrop to Shakespeare’s Globe on Tour’s performance of Julius Caesar. Take along the whole family to this political thriller, or browse the space’s exclusive exhibition of writer portraits. There will also be a one-off event with Rankin on 5 June.

LIVE ON AIR... On the fringes of the Hay’s

esteemed literary line up is a flourishing

26 May to 5 June 2022, hayfestival.com

Sally Rooney fans have been waiting with bated breath for the second TV adaptation of one of her books, Conversations with Friends, which explores the interwoven relationships between four characters. Out May 2022

TV

Created by the late Roger Michell, the director behind Notting Hill, feature-length documentary Elizabeth: A Portrait in Parts uses archive footage to show a side to the Queen that the public rarely gets to see. In cinemas and on Prime Video from 3 June 2022

FILM

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CULTURE | What’s On

PREVIEW

Ellie Smith looks forward to Superbloom, a living installation at the Tower of London

T

he Tower of London is set to get a whole lot livelier this summer thanks to Superbloom, a new project launching at the historic venue as part of the Platinum Jubilee celebrations. A couple of months ago, over 20 million seeds were sown into the Tower’s moat in a bid to attract pollinators and bring some natural beauty into the urban space. The result? A vibrant wildflower meadow, which will change naturally over the summer period as different species of flowers enter their prime. Not only will the blooming moat be magical to look at, visitors will have the chance to whizz down into it via a slide – recycled from its previous

home at Cliveden House. Access is also available via a more conventional route, with a sound installation and sculptural elements setting the scene. This is the first part of a permanent transformation of the moat into a new natural landscape for London. First filled in the 13th century to defend the fortress, the moat has served many purposes over the years, including being used as a grazing ground for Victorian livestock. In its 21st century iteration, the moat’s purpose will be primarily environmental, standing as a green habitat for pollinators, insects and seed-eating birds. 1 June to 18 Sept 2022. hrp.org.uk The wildflower meadow fills the Tower of London’s moat

Photographer: Robert Harper; Stylist: David Nolan; Groomer: Samantha Cooper

MY Cultural Life

Matthew McNulty on zip wiring through Welsh mines and Married at First Sight

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

I’m tuning into… The Cautionary Tales podcast. Tim Harford has such an engaging tone I’d listen to him read a shopping list. I’m reading… The Riders (audiobook) by Tim Winton. The Promise by Damon Galgut, I do like an epic journey. I’m watching… My Brilliant Friend (I’m learning Italian) on HBO/Sky Italia. Stunning production design and performances from the lead actors. I’m most looking forward to seeing… James’ 30th anniversary of their Alton Towers gig… All the classics. My favourite painting is… Going to the Match by LS Lowry. It makes me feel nostalgic for Maine Road, Man City’s old ground. My favourite film of all time is… Meantime by Mike Leigh. It heavily influenced me as a kid along with the films of Alan Clarke and Ken Loach, though you can’t beat Back to the Future for multi-generational enjoyment. The band I always have on repeat is… Elbow. Their music enhances any mood I’m in. My ultimate cultural recommendation is… A visit to any of the slate mines of north Wales. Breathtaking inside and out, and steeped in social history. Plus, you can zip wire across them if you get bored. My cultural guilty pleasure is… Married at First Sight sucked me in, although I’m not sure I could watch another full series of it – some of those people are bonkers.

Matthew McNulty stars in The Rising as Tom Rees, out now. He is currently filming season two of Domina for Sky Atlantic 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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Books | CULTURE

NOBLE PAGES

Richard Hopton immerses himself in royal reads in preparation for The Queen’s Jubilee

1 PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

GEORGE V: NEVER A DULL MOMENT Jane Ridley

George V is conventionally portrayed as a narrow-minded, dull man, obsessed with the minutiae of dress, killing pheasants, and collecting stamps. Jane Ridley’s new biography of the King, the first for nearly 40 years, redresses the balance. George steered the monarchy through 25 tumultuous years during which 13 European monarchies collapsed but ‘not only did the British monarchy survive… it emerged from the convulsions stronger that ever.’ Ridley’s biography puts Queen Mary, George’s consort at the centre of her book. In the two previous full-length biographies the Queen is at best a peripheral figure; here she is painted as an equal partner in a strong marriage. It is a vibrant, entertaining portrait of the present Queen’s grandfather, a Victorian who adapted admirably to the demands of a more modern age. Chatto & Windus, £30

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THE PLATINUM JUBILEE COOKBOOK Ameer Kotecha

‘Food,’ it is said, ‘is the oldest diplomatic tool.’ Certainly, entertaining has always been an established part of embassy life, playing a vital role in oiling the wheels of diplomacy. This collection of 70 recipes – all mouthwateringly photographed – is drawn from British Embassies and High Commissions the world over: Rendang beef Wellington from Kuala Lumpur, Mbatten fil Furn from Tripoli, salad from Tel Aviv (see the recipe on pXX), and many more. Alongside the recipes is a series of entertaining essays full of anecdotes about dining and diplomacy as well as some patriotic name-dropping about some quintessentially British food brands. It’s also a ‘snapshot of the service conducted overseas by the most travelled monarch in history’ and, as such, a fitting if slightly unusual tribute to the Queen in her Platinum Jubilee year. Jon Croft Editions, £30

3

THE LAST EMPEROR OF MEXICO: A DISASTER IN THE NEW WORLD Edward Shawcross

Edouard Manet’s famous painting of the execution of Maximilian by firing squad in 1867 is almost the only remaining trace – and certainly the best-known – of an extraordinary act of mid-19th century European imperial arrogance. Edward Shawcross’s first book tells the bizarre, sad story of how a Habsburg prince was made Emperor of Mexico, a dupe, a pawn in a game of geopolitics orchestrated with characteristic incompetence and bad faith by Napoleon III. Maximilian was installed by French soldiers but never controlled the whole country or settled its civil war. In the end, Napoleon, threatened by the United States and by Prussia and short of money abandoned Maximilian to his fate. It’s a cautionary tale of bombast, naivety, and betrayal but a cracking piece of history as opera buffa. Faber, £20

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CULTURE | Books

BIBLIO FILE

By Belinda Bamber

Good fiction offers balm and cheer in difficult times. These are the novels to put a spring in your step

UNDER THE COVER WITH…

BONNIE GARMUS The debut author reveals her Lessons in Chemistry

effortless page-turner. Then there’s Fight Night by the brilliant Miriam Toews (Faber, £14.99), out 2 June. Bringing another trio of delightful eccentrics, this time three generations of women observed by the youngest, Swiv, it will break your heart even as you hoot aloud. And clear a weekend for binge-reading The Whalebone Theatre by Joanna Quinn (Fig Tree, £14.99), about three free-spirited children who organise the toffs, drunks and servants of their Dorset country pile into staging a play in a beached whale’s skeleton – before World War II overturns their lives. Destined to be a literary classic, it’s a dead cert for screen adaptation. Out 9 June.

BUDS IN MAY ADVENTURE is at the heart of The Goldhanger Dog by Wanda Whiteley (Lammas, £8.99), a page-turner set in Tudor Essex, in which teenage Dela eludes capture in the marshes alongside loyal Turnspit – another fictional dog who’ll steal your heart this month. Out 26 May; SECRETS rebound dangerously down the family tree in Bad Relations, a gripping story of love, loss and tragic betrayal by Cressida Connolly (Viking, £14.99). Out 19 May.

I’m a ‘late starter’ at 64 but I’ve been writing novels since I was five; one was rejected by 98 agents. Don’t give up... The ‘chemistry’ of the book’s title

relates to the combustion of love, passion, humour – and Calvin’s love of rowing. The heroine, Elizabeth Zott sprang from my desire for a woman I could look up to: a woman with integrity who didn’t waste time doubting herself, weighing herself, apologising, smiling nonstop. I set the book in the early 1960s to salute the overlooked housewives like my mom who raised a generation of feminists. Back then few women studied science,

pregnancy was a fireable offence and men had to counter-sign their wives’ cheques. Even today only 30 per cent of the STEM workforce is female. I made Elizabeth beautiful because I wanted that beauty to be an additional burden for her, on top of her intelligence. Beautiful women aren’t taken seriously. My career as a copywriter helped hone my writing; I loved learning new things – it’s the opposite of ‘write what you know’. Life has taught me it’s normal to feel frustration, anxiety, depression. So take a break: an hour, a week, a year – not quitting, refuelling. Then recommit. It’s so tough out there: war, pandemics and climate change aren’t funny. But that’s why we need to laugh more than ever, we can’t let the darkness win. Lessons in Chemistry (Transworld, £14.99) 

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

W

hen news headlines get us down, who doesn’t crave the escapism that favourite books gave us as children? Oh, to dive into a safe, fictional world in which we can laugh and cry along with beloved characters, devouring stories that will comfort and centre us when we re-emerge, blinking, into real life. Luckily, there are riches on offer this spring. Lessons in Chemistry by Bonnie Garmus (see Q&A) features determined, clever, beautiful Elizabeth Zott, fighting for her career as a scientist in America’s chauvinistic Sixties. Funny and original, it features fiction’s geekiest love interest (Calvin), its oddest child (Mad), and cleverest dog (Six-Thirty). An

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CULTURE | Column

The EXHIBITIONIST

O

ne of the perks of becoming a government minister is getting access to the Government Art Collection. This unique body was established at the end of the 19th century, when a clever clerk of the works worked out it would be cheaper to cover damp patches on the walls of government buildings with paintings, rather than fresh wallpaper. This judicious decision has led to a great collection of British paintings which now adorns the walls of ministers’ offices and our embassies all around the world. In fact, the collection’s 14,700 works of art can be found in 130 countries. Every new minister gets a visit from the formidable director of the collection, Penny Johnson, who asks what they want on their walls. As a new arts minister, I was tremendously excited and interested. I asked Penny for a range of works – Kossoff, Freud, Auerbach and so on. After listening to this demented rant, Penny drew herself up to her full height and said coldly, ‘Minister, we are not an Argos catalogue.’ What I did get was a Damien Hirst, and not just any old Damien Hirst. It is a splash painting of our

wonderful Queen and achieved fame of sorts when Matt Hancock inherited it and it moved with him to the Department of Health. Many a Covid interview (and perhaps the occasional snog) was gazed upon by Hirst’s Majesty. As we celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, you can do a virtual Hancock. Visit the Government Art Collection’s website, and search for the Queen. You will discover that not only do we, as taxpayers, own the Hirst, we also have an Andy Warhol of the Queen, currently hanging in the residence of our ambassador to the United Nations. We have a copy of the famous Annigoni portrait, hanging in our embassy in Italy. In London itself, we have a lovely Luis Mezzadra portrait of the Queen laughing. There are numerous photographs of the Queen by the famous pioneering photographer Dorothy Wilding. And lots by David Bailey but you can’t see them because they are copyright protected (boo!). My favourite, however, from this rich and varied collection is the multi-framed painting by Johannes Tessema of the Queen’s state visit to Ethiopia, a supremely charming, colourful and endlessly engaging work. If the Government Art Collection feels too narrow, go further afield and visit the site of Art UK (artuk.org). This wonderful charity has photographed every painting in a public collection. Here you will find many a gem, and possibly a new arts venue that could be worth a visit. What could possibly keep you away from Hull’s Guildhall, where you can see the charming oil painting showing the Queen departing the Corporation Pier in a motor launch at the beginning of her state visit to Denmark in 1957? Or indeed the Surrender of the Sword of State to the Queen in 1969, which took place at Hull railway station. Both historic events were recorded by the same local artist. Then there is Britannia leaving the Tees, which can be found in Hartlepool’s museum. You can’t actually see the Queen, but she was definitely on board. My favourite here is the portrait of the Queen by the unfortunately named Joan Wanklyn, of the Queen receiving a crystal bowl from the Royal Welch Fusiliers, to be found at the regimental museum in Caernarfon castle. FROM TOP: Queen Elizabeth II of the The Queen has had many Jubilees, and the United Kingdom by Andy Warhol (1985); Beautiful Portrait, The Queen by best celebrations are the informal street parties Damien Hirst (2014), which hangs in the and gatherings. So while there are many formal Department of Health; Pietro Annigoni’s exhibitions about, why not get into the spirit and Queen Elizabeth II (1955) create your own Queen collection. 

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE GOVERNMENT ART COLLECTION

Ed Vaizey celebrates the many portraits of the Queen available in collections around the country

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AUCTION VIEWING •

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19/04/2022 16:38 16:49 22/04/2022


CULTURE | Art

David Nash RA’s new exhibition Full Circle is informed by his lifetime studying trees

DAVID NASH

‘D

igging ditches, planting invasive Sitka spruce, spraying gorse with poison... Ghastly.’ David Nash recalls his first job with the Forestry Commission after leaving Kingston School of Art in 1967. ‘No hazmat suits in the 1960s – you just made sure the wind was blowing the other way.’ Unlike his final year fellows, David didn’t apply for a post-graduate course straight away (he later studied at Chelsea School of Art) as he already had a plan. It centred on Blaenau Ffestiniog, a former slate mining town in rural north Wales. ‘I stammered very badly. I didn’t see how I could make it in London,’ he explains. ‘I just wanted somewhere to hide, to see whether I could prove myself to myself as an artist.’ Fifty years later, David is still there. Aged 22, he bought an abandoned Methodist chapel at auction, took out the pews and it became his studio while he lived in the old school rooms at the back. Now the space is full of his enormous sculptures from past exhibitions in Montreal, Seoul and New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Sinuous elm branches and warped oak trunks, cherry wood with huge etched cracks crowd together, the original stained-glass windows peering down on this unique congregation. Near the studio, a four-acre wood sits on a hillside. Forty years ago, David explains, the owner gave a woodman permission to axe six mature oaks, but he chopped it all down. ‘In exchange for the wood, I cleaned up and replanted it because he was in big trouble with Snowdonia National

Park. That was when I found the way I work now.’ One celebrated piece is missing: Wooden Boulder, a chunk of oak he carved into a three-foot ball in 1978. ‘I had this idea that, if I put it in the stream, I could crowbar it down, and get it back to the studio. But the journey became more interesting than the idea.’ The would-be exhibit stayed in the stream for eight years, then plunged into the main river where it tumbled five kilometres down to the sea and settled on a sand bank. Every high tide at a full moon it would be picked up and moved. It vanished in 2003 and reappeared in 2013, where it sat in the Dwyryd estuary. ‘Two years later, on the same high tide, something must have hooked it. I haven’t found it since,’ says David. This is what his work is all about: the journey back to nature. For his current exhibition at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, David has put down the chainsaw and explored colour on paper: the yellows of autumn that move to dark then bright green in early summer, the elusive quality of bright bluebells in May. It’s a love letter to nature and his most long-standing colleagues and companions: trees. ‘I want to show my attitude as a human being in the environments I care about, the material I use,’ says David, emphatically. ‘I do as little as possible, use as little resources as possible.’ David Nash: Full Circle is at Yorkshire Sculpture Park until 5 June 2022. ysp.org.uk 

PHOTO: © CAITI GROVE

Caiti Grove heads to Wales to meet the artist in his natural habitat

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R E S E T YO U R S PAC E A N D M I N D W I T H LU X U RY O U T D O O R F U R N I T U R E F RO M

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CULTURE | Sustainability

MY LITTLE GREEN BOOK Safia Minney has spent over three decades trying to make the fashion world fairer, says Lisa Grainger

S

afia Minney didn’t know it at the time, but when she was seven, the death of her MauritianIndian scientist father would influence not only her choice of career, but the path of her life. Minney’s Swiss mother – with three children and no family around to help her – would often take her children out with her to visit the needy. And that, Minney recognises now, ‘opened a whole new world. I remember helping her to settle Asian Ugandans who’d had to leave their homes with just a suitcase, and I saw how awful it was to be a refugee. Or we became family to people with severe mental health issues. I saw life from someone else’s point of view.’ Since then, the 58-year-old has spent much of her career highlighting not only others’ points of view but also alternative ways of approaching the world. In London in her twenties, ‘realising, for the first time, I was from a minority’, she set up one of the first diverse marketing departments in British publishing. While living in Japan, she founded Global Village: an NGO promoting social justice and environmental issues. And in 1992, she founded the ground-breaking People Tree: one of the first ethical fashion companies, which today has over 700 stockists across Europe and a turnover of £10 million. Starting a sustainable fashion brand from scratch – working for years from her living room in Tokyo and then London – has given the vegetarian activist a green contact book that most fashion retailers would kill for. At People Tree, every part of the process had to be squeaky-green, from ethical buttons and fabric dyed in the least polluting ways to clothing sewn by people earning a living wage, unlike, as she passionately puts it, ‘over 50 per cent of fashion workers, who are working in conditions of modern slavery.’ Thirty years later – having starred in the fashion film True Cost about ‘the real costs to our natural world and people’ and written five books about the ethics of fashion, with a sixth appearing in October – it’s little surprise that the elegant activist, who was awarded an MBE in 2009, is desperate about the state of the planet. ‘We are running out of time,’ she says passionately. ‘If we can’t prevent the temperature rising, or

Safia Minney has been a pioneer in the sustainable fashion space

even keep it to 1.5C, it will displace 30 or 40 per cent of the world’s population – which is immoral and will lead to conflict.’ What we all need to do, she says, ‘is to stop buying things, and instead to repair, recycle and resell – all those R words. And if we really need to buy new, it must be regeneratively produced, shifting from fossil fuel to low impact fabrics and support decent livelihoods… Plus, we have to push the government to create laws and enforce them. Without that, and carbon taxes, nothing will change.’ While younger generations seem to be taking urgent action, she says, it’s often older ones – many of them in positions of leadership – who are stuck in their polluting (unsustainable) ways: eating lots of meat, travelling in business class, driving SUVs. Hence much of her focus now is on them. During the week, she now coaches high-level executives to help them transform their companies in greener ways. She has set up Real Sustainability: to educate people on better ways to live and helped launch Fashion Declares, an industry-wide movement towards sustainable change in fashion. Having swum upstream her whole life, she knows what it’s like to be the voice of dissent, whether that’s at work, at home, or in public life. ‘Sometimes it is lonely to say you care,’ she acknowledges. ‘But we all need to, now.’ realsustainability.org; fashion-declares.org 

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CULTURE | Conservation

The Positive Disruptor

It’s time for national food sufficiency – that also restores nature, says James Wallace THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW Take a walk on the wilder side for a more sustainable way of life

VISIT... Alladale’s wild cats and golden eagles, run by The European Nature Trust. alladale.com REWILD THE LAND... Join the Rewilding Britain network. rewildingbritain.org.uk Wild Ken Hill in Norfolk exemplifies agroecology

P

icture this: red deer stags strutting in heat-shimmering savannah; purple emperor butterflies flitting once-ahedgerow treetops; dragonfly dragoons skimming lily-clad, troutpacked swamps. Now add a soundtrack of cooing turtle doves, clacking bills of circling white storks and the plop of decades-silent marsh frogs. This is no far-flung land but 3,500 acres of West Sussex beneath the Gatwick holding stack where, I wager, a Knepp Wildland safari would awaken primal longings in any British soul. Having stopped ploughing their uneconomic clay 20 years ago, Isabella Tree and Charlie Burrell exemplify wilder farming that pays the bills, restores nature, provides food and thrills visitors. Their relative postage stamp hosts more ‘bioabundance’ per summer stroll than most sheepmown National Parks. Call it nature restoration, regenerative agriculture or even rewilding, it’s an example of how we can reverse our catastrophic loss of wildlife and soils, secure food and water and grow natural climate resilience. In Norfolk, at Wild Ken Hill, Dominic Buscall and estate director, Nick Padwick’s version of ‘agroecology’ is another revelation. Innovative low-impact no-till, perennial intercropping (the cultivation of two or more crops simultaneously on the same field) and woodland pasture produce high food yields and form wildlife habitats without chemical inputs, all while storing soil carbon and creating hedgerows, wildflower meadows and wetlands buzzing with life. Income

from the estate’s marginal land has grown thanks to advice from Natural England. Guided tours are offered with friendly wildlife experts including the estate’s gamekeeper-turned-ranger. Over 1,000 people booked guided tours at £35 in 2021, with 2022 looking like it will be even busier. This transition reconnects people with nature and each other, rejecting fortress conservation – no more ‘get-off-my-land’. Rewilding Britain reported naturebased economies on 53,175 hectares in England increased jobs by 54 per cent through rewilding and wilder farming in just 10 years. The government seems to get it too. Before leaving Beaver Trust last year, we launched ‘Woodlands for Water’ with the National Trust, Woodland Trust, Rivers Trust and Defra: farm payments for creating river buffer zones giving space to nature. By 2024 similar Environmental Land Management schemes will reward ecosystem services rather than damaging intensive productivity. Following a 42 per cent reduction in public sector funding for nature since 2009, at last, public payment for the public goods we need: clean water, flood alleviation, pollinators and food. As for the argument that the UK has insufficient land for food and nature, note that over a third of our food is wasted and over two thirds of farmland produces animal protein alone. When did you last see a field growing the fruit, veg, nuts and seeds that feed us? Possibly on safari in Kenya or sipping sangria in Spain. It’s time for national food self-sufficiency, and to value what we eat and who grows it more. Even Jeremy Clarkson’s doing it. 

SAFARI CAMP... Take a wild tour and sleep in the trees at Knepp Wildland. kneppsafaris.co.uk GROW YOUR OWN... Learn from Tolly at Tolhurst Organic how to grow green. tolhurstorganic.co.uk ENJOY... A nature-friendly bite and bed at Helen Browning’s Royal Oak Pub with rooms and organic farm. helenbrowningsorganic.co.uk

READ... The inspiring Wilding by Isabella Tree, (£9.99, Pan Macmillan)

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Mercedes-AMG G 63 PRICE £164,000 ENGINE 4.0-litre, V8 petrol POWER 569 bhp 0-62 MPH 4.5 seconds ECONOMY 17.2 mpg STREAMING Power, Kanye West

Road Test

Jeremy Taylor roars around town and country in the formidable Mercedes G-Class, which precedes the promised all-electric version arriving in 2025

TOWN Mercedes is working on an all-electric version of its most

COUNTRY The G-Class dates back to 1979, when it first appeared as an

outrageous vehicle, the G-Class four-wheel drive, which is promised to arrive in 2025. The new version will remain recognisable as the brick-shaped G-Glass, but underneath a huge battery pack will offer a more environmentally friendly model still boasting supercar performance. Until then, it’s impossible to miss the enormous, V8-powered G-Class as it grunts around London like a dinosaur with toothache. Nobody buys a G to blend in – the twin-turbocharged petrol version is famed for its signature calling card. But squeezing into a tight space in Mercedes’ longestserving model is simple with a self-park system, and the luggage area is also massive and easy to access – two essential shopping requirements, making for a pleasant drive around town. Of course, the Mercedes is very expensive to run, realistically returning no more than 12mpg around town, while rivals like the Range Rover and Porsche Cayenne are also much better to drive. So what makes the G-Class such a favourite? In a world of jelly mould cars designed with aerodynamics and userfriendliness in mind, the mighty Mercedes is like an affable but naughty uncle: impossibly out-of-date but lovable all the same.

upmarket alternative to a Land Rover. A heavyweight bruiser in every sense, the Mercedes proved unstoppable off-road and then became a hit on Tarmac too. However, crazy as it might seem, the go-anywhere, doanything G-Class is more at home in an urban environment. Sure, it has staggering ability off-road but that luxurious interior really wasn’t designed for a shooting party. So although the Mercedes was hand built in Austria to ford rivers and climb every mountain, the dual-screen entertainment system, brushed aluminum trim and soft leather has nowhere near the country cred of a Landie. Which is a shame because the Mercedes is quite brilliant in the dirt – but at £164,000, you may just want to take my word for it. On the motorway, a high seating position and cruise control make for very easy progress, just the roar from sidemounted exhaust pipes occasionally spoils the ambiance. The G-Class is less comfortable on a bumpy back road, where the suspension scrabbles to cope with undulations and potholes. The next generation, all-electric model should be a fascinating drive when it arrives.

RATING: 3/5 HANDBAGS

RATING: 4/5 WELLIES

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Driving | CULTURE

THE DRIVE DESTINATION: BEDFORD LODGE HOTEL & SPA, NEWMARKET

Newmarket is known as the birthplace of horse racing. The Suffolk town is also home to The Jockey Club and probably unique in the fact that the planning layout prefers horses to cars. Every morning, as day breaks, scores of jockeys ride out on the heath, galloping in front of eagle-eyed trainers. Nestled in the middle of this bustling town is Bedford Lodge, originally a Georgian hunting lodge but converted to a hotel during the 1940s. There’s the obligatory spa block now too but the main building remains full of character. It’s quaint, comfortable and offers that oldworld serenity missing from many a boutique hotel. The walls reflect the town’s racing heritage, with a colourful collection of racing silks once worn by jockeys and lots of locally inspired artwork. The three acres of grounds are also sandwiched between some of the Newmarket’s most famous stables. Leaving one of its comfortable bedrooms and relaxing leisure facilities to explore the surrounding countryside therefore requires a thoroughbred car. A vehicle with 395 horses, in fact, the fastest hatchback money can buy. The latest Audi RS 3 Sportback replaces four-hoof drive with all-wheel drive, tearing out of the starting gates from 0-62mph in 3.8 seconds. A unique, five-cylinder engine emits a wonderful noise and helps this new model – perhaps the last combustion-engined RS 3 – to drive better than ever. Unlike the horses, an RS really needs a winding A-road to express itself. Understated compared to some rivals, Audi engineers have made sure that what the car lacks in visual fireworks it more than makes up for on the road. Yes, the Audi is wrapped in an

Bedford Lodge Hotel & Spa

aggressively sporty bodykit but it all serves a genuine purpose. Inside, a 12.3-inch digital instrument display can be tweaked to suit your mood, including something called RS runway mode that replaces conventional dials with two vertical bars for engine revs and speed. I imagine most people will be so focused on the road that they won’t even notice. And the good news is that you don’t have to hurtle around like Frankie Dettori all the time to enjoy the RS 3. It also doubles as a roomy five-door hatchback for the more mundane donkey work of modern life. The RS models of the future will be battery-powered and equally as engaging to drive. This 2022 RS 3, however, is about as close as it comes to hot hatchback perfection. Just in the nick of time for die-hard Audi petrolheads.

IN THE BOOT FAST TIME Tag Heuer’s latest watch is a tribute to F1’s 2021 champions Red Bull. Keep a time check on Max Verstappen’s progress in 2022 with the Formula 1 x Red Bull Racing special edition, £1,550. tagheuer.com

BOOK IT: Rooms from £155. bedfordlodgehotel.co.uk Audi RS 3 Sportback PRICE £50,900 ENGINE 2.5-litre, 5-cyl petrol POWER 395 bhp 0-62 MPH 3.8 seconds ECONOMY 31.4 mpg STREAMING Wild Horses, The Rolling Stones

GREEN MACHINE This electrifying new book examines how motorsport has driven innovation in sustainable transport – from electric to hydrogen. Racing Green, by Kit Chapman. (£20, Bloomsbury)

GOING DUTCH British-built Bobbin offers a range of Dutch-style bicycles with retro appeal. Opt for a wicker bike basket to complete the look. Bobbin Brownie 7 bike, £549. bobbinbikes.com

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CULTURE | Interview

Charlotte Metcalf speaks to Anya Hindmarch about overcoming doubt, staying organised and how she built her accessories empire PORTRAIT BY ALEXANDRA DAO

L IN BRIEF PENTHOUSE OR COTTAGE?

As I get older I crave fewer people around so we’ve just bought a tiny cottage to escape to CAT OR DOG?

I’ve got five kids so I don’t need a pet MICHELIN STAR OR COUNTRY PUB?

Country pub all the way – I like The Salutation Inn near Castle Combe KILLER HEELS OR SENSIBLE FLATS?

I’m too busy for heels – I’ll never wear them again THEATRE OR GARDENING?

Both, but I’ve started designing a garden and it’s really happy-making

ooking out from Scarfes at the early morning sunshine, Anya Hindmarch is regretting she hasn’t had time to go for her thrice-weekly walk. It’s a habit she recommends as one of several routes to happiness in her new book If In Doubt, Wash your Hair. Alex, our photographer, compliments Anya on her hair so we laugh about how relevant this is to the book’s title. I ask Anya how she found time to write a book, given she is a mother of five and only took back full control of her company in 2019 and then opened The Village on Pont Street, off Sloane Street, late last year. ‘I’d resisted writing a book, but when I bought back my business, I realised I knew more than I thought I did,’ she explains. ‘The book’s not a memoir or about me, but about all the things that preoccupy women. I wanted to share very honestly what I knew to help women feel better about themselves, become more confident and realise that it’s OK to doubt. Most of us doubt ourselves daily, which is why I used it in the title.’ It’s difficult to believe that Anya has ever had a moment’s doubt, given her career as arguably Britain’s most famous bag designer took off in Florence when she was just 18. ‘I’ve always liked the sculptural aspect of handbags,’ she says, ‘and still remember my mother’s classic square zip-top Gucci. But I loved the Italian girls for their distinct style and they were carrying these nonchalant, elegantly practical drawstring duffle bags.’ Anya found an Italian factory to make 500 duffle bags to her own design, returned to London and sold the lot via Harpers & Queen, making a profit of £7,000. It put an end to any thoughts of university, but she had zero regrets: ‘I’d never thrived at school anyway. I come from an entrepreneurial family, and this was Thatcher’s Britain, the age of start-ups like Pret.’ The Italian factory was soon making more of Anya’s designs, which she started selling in King’s Road boutiques. It wasn‘t long before American outlets like Saks and Bergdorf Goodman came calling. Anya’s beautifully crafted, playful takes on branded cereal boxes and baked beans became her trademark, and many are now museum pieces. ‘It’s the artful side of not taking things too seriously and making the everyday extraordinary,’ says Anya. Yet her bags go way beyond being decorative accessories. Anya has a self-confessed obsession with organisation, a

topic she explores in her book. ‘I hate scrabbling in my bag or those kitchen drawers full of odds-and-ends. I like a place for everything, from lipstick to phone charger.’ Today her bags are cherished for their efficient compartmentalised systems, and she has an entire ‘Labelled’ shop dedicated to these must-have organisers. Anya’s first shop opened on Pont Street in 1996 and 26 years on a visitor would be forgiven for thinking an entire stretch of street belongs to her, with five ‘Village’ outlets and the Belisha beacon at the zebra crossing bearing a pair of Anya’s signature cartoon eyes. The Village comprises the ‘Bespoke’, ‘Labelled’ and ‘Plastic’ boutiques, a retro café with outside terrace serving homemade wittily iced biscuits and cakes, and The Village Hall, which is constantly changing. So far, the Hall has been a hair salon, Christmas grotto, dry off-licence and is currently a nail bar. It’s about to become A Houndmarch, a doggie butcher shop. ‘I’ve felt such a surge of creativity since I’ve been back at the helm,’ Anya says. ‘We had 65 stores round the world, and that didn’t feel modern anymore, so we shut most of them. I wanted a more direct, personal link with my customers, who want to touch, have experiences and be local again after two years of screens and being online. I love the idea of my customers paying a pilgrimage to The Village, just as I used to go to one little shop in Paris for my glasses.’ Anya’s also well known as a passionate campaigner against plastics and environmental damage. Her ‘I Am Not A Plastic Bag’ tote, launched at Sainsbury’s in 2007, had 80,000 people queuing for it. Her latest project is her ‘Return to Nature’ bag that’s been tested for two years in laboratory conditions. All of its parts, from leather to fastenings, are designed to decompose and add nutrients to soil, nurturing rather than depleting the environment. ‘I’m so lucky to have a fashion platform from which to fight climate change,’ she says. ‘Fashion can have a purpose and be such a force for good – it’s about eco not ego now. We talk about helping Ukrainian refugees, but things are going to get way worse if we don’t act to save our planet.’ Mother, wife, wise friend, campaigner, entrepreneur and unstoppable creative force – I wonder she has any time to wash her hair at all. If In Doubt, Wash Your Hair by Anya Hindmarch (Bloomsbury, £9.99); anyahindmarch.com 

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Fashion is about ‘eco’ not ‘ego’ for Anya Hindmarch

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Tulle dress, ACT No1. Red Carpet collection bracelet with amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds set in 18ct white gold, Chopard. Shoes, Christian Louboutin. Gloves, Cornelia James

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T H E

JEWEL CROWN I N

T H E

BELINDA BAMBER speaks to Downton Abbey star Laura Haddock about motherhood, Downton pranks and starting again FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER CARLA GULER

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Dress, Christian Dior. Haute Joaillerie collection earrings with emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds in 18ct white gold and Temptations collection ring with amethysts and tsavorite garnets in 18ct white gold, Chopard

aura Haddock appears on my Zoom screen like an apparition of spring, her trademark fresh-faced beauty matched by the clean, Scandi-style interior of her home in Buckinghamshire. Just back from a Monday morning school-run with her children Pip, six, and Margot, four, she’s enjoying the English sunshine after the family’s recent stay in sub-zero Montreal for one of her film shoots. ‘The kids absolutely loved it, they would just walk out the front door and face-plant the snow,’ she laughs. ‘It was magical for them.’ Raised in Harpenden and trained at Chiswick’s Arts Educational School, 36-year-old Laura’s prolific acting portfolio ranges from mainstream movies like The Inbetweeners (2011), Guardians of the Galaxy (2014) and Transformers (2017) to Netflix hit series White Lines (2020), set in Ibiza. In her latest film, Downton Abbey: A New Era, she swaps the swimsuits and action-girl garb for theatrical 1920s gowns in her role

as Myrna Dalgleish, a 1920s silent-movie star who joins the Crawley family when their castle is used as a film location. ‘I felt euphoric when I got that Downton call from my agent,’ smiles Laura. It was the day schools reopened post-lockdown in March 2021, and she describes the moment with storyboard precision: the collective sigh of relief among parents at the school gates; steeling herself for the big tidy-up back home (‘post-it notes with numbers and letters stuck all over the walls’); feeling anxious about resuming her career after home-schooling her children during the pandemic; and wanting to drop to her knees with gratitude on Kew Bridge when her phone rang with the news that Downton director Simon Curtis wanted to see her. ‘I got the rush of adrenaline I used to get when I first started out [as an actor],’ she says. Laura was undaunted by joining such a tight-knit cast because it turns out she already knew several of them, including Joanne Froggatt and Elizabeth McGovern, as neighbours and fellow dog-walkers in Chiswick. Phyllis Logan [Mrs Hughes in Downton] and her husband Kevin McNally had also become close friends and mentors since she moved next door to them on first arriving in London. ‘They’ve been my guiding lights into the industry,’ she explains, ‘full of mischief and fun.’ So – the usual nerves aside – joining Downton felt like ‘a gentle invitation… to just go in and play’. She wasn’t disappointed. Maggie Smith was ‘absolutely hilarious’, recounts Laura. ‘You have to really keep a lid on it when you’re on set with her because her delivery is so quick, and your instinct is just to relish in her humour. I loved meeting her. She’s a great, brilliantly talented, whip-smart woman.’ And there were pranks. Laura recalls Hugh Bonneville telling her it was fine to ad lib during a big dinner table scene. ‘He said, “Oh, Laura, you can feel really comfortable and loose on this set, we all throw things in when we want to.”’ Knowing Julian Fellowes had penned a tight script, she felt doubtful, ‘but I thought, Hugh’s saying it so it must be true.’ She followed his advice for the next take, ‘and afterwards, Hugh turned to me and said, “I was only joking… this is not the world where you do that!” I was like, just throw me under a bus, you naughty man.’ It’s clear Laura’s a team player who’s enjoying the chance to explore a variety of roles in her thirties. A fan of ‘strong, funny, smart women’ in every aspect of movie-making, she says Diane Keaton would be her dream co-star and Lady Bird’s Greta Gerwig her fantasy director. With various acting projects in the pipeline, Laura’s also working on a film script about Sylvia Plath, called Surviving June, with her writer friend Eve Hedderwick Turner. Laura’s happiest playing women ‘very unlike’ herself, and her

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Dress, Giambattista Valli Haute Couture. Earrings with diamonds set in white gold, Graff. Boots, Giambattista Valli

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Blazer dress, ACT No1. Ring with diamonds set in platinum, Harry Winston. Shoes, Gina

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Dress, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini; ‘Late Spring Frost’ ring with pink tourmaline and grey star sapphire set in platinum and ‘Woodland’ ring featuring an aquamarine and moonstone set in diamonds and white gold, Boodles

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Dress, Zeynep Kartal; Earrings, Boodles

acting’s intuitive. ‘I rely on listening and being reactive… When you’re working with another actor who’s also really listening and reacting you create this fizzing space together that’s like the sweet spot for me.’ She loved working with Sir Anthony Hopkins, her co-star in Transformers: The Last Knight: ‘he’s so alive… you just don’t know what’s going to happen next. He creates a really fun space.’ He also spent most of his lunch hours on set signing autographs for visitors, despite the punishing schedule. ‘He’s such a kind, gentle-hearted man, who’s been through it in his life as well,’ she says. ‘I begged him to rest but he told me, “I need to say thank you to them, because they’re the reason I’m able to do this job.”’ Describing herself as ‘an extroverted introvert’, Laura seems a natural on the red carpet, something she credits to her tight-knit team. ‘I surround myself with people I love and trust. Amy, my stylist, is one of my best friends: we’ve had children together, she knows my inside life.’

Industry events are essentially ‘alien’, she says, ‘but if you do it with friends [in hair and make-up], you get on the carpet feeling confident and bolstered by the people who have your back. ‘I always call my nan before taking on a new role,’ she adds, while her sister is good at putting life into perspective: ‘she’s hilarious and knows how to cut through the anxiety – she’ll make me laugh my head off and see the funny side of things.’ Such support must have helped her through the 2019 break-up of her marriage to Peaky Blinders’ Sam Claflin, the father of her children. Their split is off-limits for our conversation, but they seem to have transitioned into co-parenting with grace and minimal press intrusion. How does she balance the contradictory demands of film shoots and children? ‘If I’m completely honest, I was scared about what this life would look like for them… I had to shake hands with the fact their life is very different to how I grew up,’ she admits. ‘Motherhood is my first job, but I adore what I do… and it would be a shame to let that go, because then Pip and Margot wouldn’t see how important it is to have that passion, love and drive for your career.’ Paradoxically, she has found it empowering to speak up, insisting that the time frame and location of any job has to fit in with her family life: ‘It’s given me a lot of strength and courage.’ And she’s delighted her children have thrived on their film-shoot travels, though she’s looking forward ‘to being in one place and just getting into that routine of school and after-school clubs’. Their recent move to the countryside, with her parents half an hour down the road, ‘has been one of the best things I’ve done for the family,’ she says, ‘because although I love London it’s opened up their green space: you open the back door and they just go!’ The acoustic guitar leaning against the wall behind her suggests the musical influence of her partner Tom Rhys Harries, whom she met on the set of White Lines. ‘We’ve got quite a few in the house, and I have to say I cannot play,’ she laughs, ‘but we’ve got keyboards, we’ve got pianos, it’s like, come on, everyone, let’s just make a noise, doesn’t matter if it’s good or not!’ Just before we say goodbye, Laura and I broach the horrors of war in Ukraine – she’s been researching the psychology of talking about it to her children and is off to frame a print she bought from an artist friend, which raised £25,000 for refugees through the charity, Choose Love. As the screen fades, the words linger like Laura’s own infectiously sunny approach to life. ‘Downton Abbey: A New Era’ is in UK cinemas now 

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Dress, AADNEVIK. Earrings and ear cuff in diamonds and white gold, Cartier. Shoes, Gina TEAM Make-up: Naoko Scintu at The Wall Group using Armani Beauty Hair: Halley Brisker at The Wall Group using Color Wow Digital cover: Tracer Ital at Adrenalin Photographic Photographer’s assistant: Alex Ingram Fashion assistant: April McCarthy Make-up assistant: Rachael Thomas Shot on location at The Chelsea Pig STOCKISTS: PAGE 172

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ON LOCATION

Timothy Oulton’s The Chelsea Pig pub became cover star Laura Haddock’s local for C&TH’s latest shoot. By Tessa Dunthorne

T

ucked away on a quiet corner of Old Church Street, The Chelsea Pig is a London institution, dating back to 1892. A well-loved local, it was taken on by Timothy Oulton Studio in October 2021 as the brand’s first venture into hospitality. And mouth-watering seasonal British fare isn’t the only thing on the menu here; in both its food and its design, the heart of this pub beats with a blend of tradition and modernity – with several eclectic surprises along the way. After taking over from previous landlord Frank Lampard, the Timothy Oulton team transformed the pub, with all fixtures and fittings designed and made by the brand. Keeping Chelsea’s sporting connections in mind, the pub’s moody panelling is offset by walls of trophies and shields. Heavy velvet curtains add to the cosy feel, while crystal chandeliers blaze with golden light. The reclaimed wooden floor, a mix of mahogany and oak, was sourced from old Turkish barns and British dance halls. Nautical details are brought into the downstairs area through a wall chequered with portholes emblazoned with bees, butterflies and bustling insects, and an eye-catching aquarium installation. It’s home to a Sladen diving suit – an evocative piece that looks straight out of The Creature From The Black Lagoon. Here, pub-goers can pull up a stool at the wraparound bar and be mixed a martini by The Chelsea Pig’s expert staff. Or they can cosy up on dark leather banquettes, and tuck into the crowd-pleasing menu of Sutton Hoo chicken, braised lamb pie and Hereford rib-eye steak. It was the ideal location for capturing Laura Haddock for our jubilee issue – a real English gem indeed. thechelseapig.co.uk; +44 (0)20 3026 0466  84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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Gateway wallcovering. Eaton Bench in Bristol with Dash Tape.

Pavilion Collection: Performance Wallcoverings www.thibautdesign.com tel: 020 7737 6555

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A staff member lays the table in St George’s Hall in Windsor Castle, ready for a banquet

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DISHING UP THE

ROYALS

A kitchen tells a thousand stories – but a royal kitchen can tell a thousand more. TOM PARKER BOWLES delves into the dishes and peeks into the pantry to serve up a sumptuous slice of royal life

I PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

t is a kitchen like no other, a towering cathedral to classical cuisine, both workhouse and work of art. Just walking into that vast, cool Windsor Castle Great Kitchen takes the breath away, with its soaring arched ceilings and fireplaces at each end, fireplaces big enough to roast a whole ox, the spits still very much intact. On the pristine white walls hangs an entire battalion of burnished copper stock pots, pans, jelly moulds and turbot kettles, some imprinted with VR beneath a crown, the insignia of Queen Victoria. In alcoves along the side sit vast metal ranges, while a metal-topped wooden table dominates the centre. On the far wall is a simple clock, above the inscription G.IV.REX 1838 to commemorate George IV’s renovation. Truly a kitchen fit for kings and queens alike. ‘A chapel with its high domed ceiling, its feeling of airiness and light, and the gleam of copper, at each end of the room,’ sighed Gabriel Tschumi, who started his royal household career as a kitchen apprentice under Queen Victoria and ended it as royal chef to Queen Mary. This magnificent kitchen has, for over 750 years, fed kings, queens, emperors and emirs alike, heroes and villains, prime ministers, presidents and imperial potentates. The sizzling, clanking, hissing and spitting nerve

centre of the oldest operating castle on earth is where great boar heads were simmered, capons roasted, stocks clarified, turbots poached, lobsters boiled, artichokes stuffed and sugar spun into the most wonderous of shapes. ‘History is everywhere here,’ says Mark Flanagan, Royal Chef to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. ‘It’s so inspiring to work in such a beautiful place.’ He is calm and softly spoken, having trained under Albert Roux, Nico Ladenis and Raymond Blanc before joining the household in 2002. ‘It has to be one of the greatest kitchens in the world.’ Easily able to fit up to 30 chefs at one time, it is also conveniently close to St George’s Hall, home to various state banquets, and on Friday 18 May 2012, the Diamond Jubilee luncheon given by The Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. The menu was short and simple, far removed from the glorious excess of previous jubilee feasts. A tartlet of poached egg with asparagus. Then noisettes of new season Windsor lamb, with carrots, broad beans and spring cabbage. Pudding was a strawberry and vanilla Charlotte. Fresh fruit and cheese finished things off. It was about the edible essence of summer and celebration of fine royal produce, too. ‘We very much adhere to the seasons,’ says Flanagan. The royal estates offer a wonderful natural pantry, and the kitchens make full use of their abundant bounty. Pork, lamb and beef from Windsor; the same from Sandringham. Game has always May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 87

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: A bird’s eye view of St George’s Hall, which had to be rebuilt in 1992 following a fire; Her Majesty The Queen raises a glass alongside HRH Prince Charles at a state banquet; Royal Chef Mark Flanagan in Windsor Castle’s Great Kitche

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

played a central role in the royal kitchen. Grouse and red deer, in season, comes from Balmoral, along with pheasant and partridge from Sandringham, and more pheasant from Windsor, too. Nothing is ever wasted. ‘When I first came here,’ says Flanagan, ‘I had a very restaurant-type approach. Partridge season would end on 1 February.’ Here, though, they freeze it and use it throughout the year. Many of the vegetables come from an ‘amazing’ kitchen garden at Balmoral. Windsor used to have fruit farms, and some trees still remain, meaning baskets full of apricots, peaches, nectarines, figs and quince. ‘We do our utmost to use as much of that as possible, wherever we can.’ The estates make their own jams and have plenty of honey from the hives at Buckingham Palace. Milk and dairy come from the royal herd in Windsor, eggs from their own flocks, and there is even a cream cheese, made for Her Majesty’s exclusive use. Flanagan is ever conscious about the provenance of his ingredients. ‘It’s so important for us to be part of the community, and we try to take a common-sense approach to our buying. But we are always conscious of the money we’re spending and whose money we’re spending.’ State banquets, held at both Windsor and Buckingham Palace, are far more than mere feasts, rather a subtle form of soufflé diplomacy – an event that mixes pageantry, pomp and circumstance with real diplomatic power. Politics may be left to the government, but few doubt the importance of these occasions. Food plays a crucial role, and part of Flanagan’s brief is to ensure that everything is just right. ‘It’s so important to have those little things taken care of that make things more personal and positive,’ he says. ‘The Times never reports on the breakfast of a state visit, but we give it the same care and attention as the state dinner, which is all about the ceremony, the concept of sharing a meal of great status with the guests. That’s the important thing.’ Menus are traditionally written in French, a tradition stretching back many centuries. ‘There was an ongoing battle between French and English cuisine in the 18th century,’ writes Annie Gray in The Greedy Queen, her brilliant account of eating with Queen Victoria. ‘Many classics of both culinary repertoires developed in the period, but French cookery was seen by the upper classes as superior. They employed French cooks and called their dishes, and courses, by French names.’ The same continues to this day. ‘Her Majesty loves the menu in French,’ says Flanagan, ‘and if I get an accent wrong or mix up the masculine and feminine on the menus I send up for her approval, she’ll let me know. Her Majesty misses nothing!’ He smiles. One of the few menus written in English was the one for her Diamond Jubilee lunch – simply a decision ‘to make life easier’. Flanagan will offer five different menus to The Queen, but it is not, he admits, ‘the time for experimentation’. He will never serve food that is highly spiced, and avoids bivalves, for reasons of safety. As ever, seasonality is everything. But the menus are only ever a basic guide. ‘Her Majesty will make the final decision, interject her own suggestions, or remember that so and so really liked that the last time they came. Her memory is incredible. All the menus have her hand on them.’ The kitchens at Buckingham Palace may lack the soaring grandeur of Windsor but are impressive all the same – large, spacious and immaculately kitted out. There are 21 chefs at full staffing levels, and the room has more of those beautiful copper pots and pans, bearing the insignia of Victoria, as well as that of George IV. The old fireplace and rotisserie remain, the latter operated by a complex system of weights and pulleys. ‘The iPhone of its time,’ says Flanagan with a grin. The room is clean and calm, far removed from its original incarnation in the time of George IV, when raw sewage oozed through the floors and the hot fetid air was thick with charcoal smoke and carbon monoxide, and next door, rubbish was stored alongside the servants’ urinal. The whole place reeked. 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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a fire; Her Majesty The Castle’s Great Kitchen

‘The room is clean and calm, far removed from its original incarnation in the time of GEORGE IV, when RAW SEWAGE oozed through the floors and the hot fetid air was thick with charcoal smoke and CARBON MONOXIDE’ It was Prince Albert who cleaned up the mess in 1851, moving the kitchen to its present place (near the ballroom, which can seat up to 190 people, but at the other end from the Private Quarters), making it bigger, more sanitary, better ventilated, with hot running water and that state-of-the-art spit. In pre-Covid times, there were 800 mouths to feed daily. Split into staff, events and domestic, this is catering on a vast scale. It is not just the Royal Family and visiting dignitaries who must be fed, but also the army of private secretaries, equerries and ladies-in-waiting, the valets, pages, dressers, maids, policemen and gardeners who make up the royal household. A jubilee, though, is a special occasion indeed, a cause for national celebration and feasting. It started with the Grand National Jubilee of George III on 25 October 1809, the day on which he entered the 50th year of his reign. Oxen were roasted up and down the country, impaled on a huge spit and secured with a dozen or so large skewers. The hearths were always purpose-built and the beasts donated by a rich squire, landowner or aristocrat, alongside the plum pudding and a good supply of strong ale or cider. England in edible form, John Bull on a plate. The whole country ate, drank and caroused in honour of their king. May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 89

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State banquets play an important diplomatic role, like when President Obama and the first lady, Michelle Obama, visited in May 2011

Queen Victoria didn’t celebrate her Silver Jubilee, being still in mourning for her husband, Prince Albert. But the Golden Jubilee in 1887 was a typically splendid affair. Funded by the Crown (the Whigs and Tories refused to use public funds), there were more ox roasts, tonnes of plum pudding and lakes of ale served to her delighted subjects. Just glancing through the menus of the various official lunch and dinners is enough to make the belly groan, for Victoria was a great eater, and her kitchen did her proud. The royal luncheon took place on 20 June 1887 and was relatively abstemious by royal standards of the day; some soup, fillet of beef, roast lamb and chicken, venison steaks, veal cutlets, lobster salad, roast fowls and duck, three puddings and a side table with cold tongue, fowl and beef. Her Majesty’s dinner, held at Windsor the next day, was a rather more substantial affair. It started, as was common, with three soups (turtle, spring and cream of rice), followed by whitebait, stuffed fillets of sole and fried whiting. For the entrées, small vol-au-vents with béchamel, lamb cutlets (a particular favourite of Queen Victoria and never far from the menu) with asparagus, and duck with peas. For the ‘releves’ course, chicken à la financière, haunch of venison and roast beef. Plus roasted quail and baby chicken. And then, just in case anyone was not quite stuffed, green beans, foie gras scallops with truffles, creamed rice with cherries and some glazed choux buns. Oh, and not forgetting the side table with the usual cold tongue, beef and fowl. These days, things are rather different. Flanagan is one of the judges, alongside the Duchess of Cornwall, Mary Berry and Monica Galetti, for the Fortnum & Mason Platinum Pudding Competition, which aims to find a pudding ‘Fit for The Queen’. And while there will be al fresco feasting

aplenty, plus the Big Jubilee Lunch, one towering figure will be deeply missed. ‘The Duke of Edinburgh was truly interested in food and really knew his stuff,’ says Flanagan. ‘A genuine gourmet, but never a snob. It was all about the flavour. And if he enjoyed the taste, it didn’t need to be complicated or overly fussy. He was a very unfussy man.’ The Duke would suddenly appear in the kitchen, asking what was for dinner that night. His barbecue skills were legendary, and at Balmoral, he would wander around the fridges, looking to choose the meat, wellhung venison or grouse for that night’s grill. ‘He would then have his own marinade and always had a firm idea of what he wanted to cook. And as much as I could try to represent or suggest, if it didn’t meet that vision, then it was very unlikely I was going to change his mind. He was a hugely talented cook, and it was an honour and pleasure to work for him.’ Flanagan is unruffled by the pressure of the state banquets and takes huge pride in running a very traditional brigade. Training is everything, and he tells me about a senior sous chef who started life as a plongeur. ‘An incredibly gifted young lad, so committed and a real joy to see him on this trajectory.’ Along with the likes of Claridge’s and The Ritz, the royal kitchen is one of the few great kitchens left. ‘It’s very important to blend the old with the new,’ he says. ‘But I hope having Buckingham Palace on your CV makes you proud. You are sometimes cooking in the same pots as Carême. There’s nowhere else you have such a sense of history.’ Extracted from Her Majesty The Queen: The Official Platinum Jubilee Pageant Commemorative Album, out 2 June (St James’s House, £49.95). stjamess.org 

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Politics may be left to the GOVERNMENT, but few doubt the importance of these occasions. Food plays a CRUCIAL ROLE, and part of FLANAGAN’s brief is to ensure that everything is just right

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ANDSOTOBED.CO.UK | 0808 144 4343

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BLACK

BOYat ETON DILLIBE ONYEAMA was the secondever Black pupil to attend Eton in 1965. He wrote a book about his experiences that has just been reissued. Here, he recalls his harrowing days and how he hopes to return to accept the current headmaster’s formal apology in person

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For the pupil of midnight hue, the insults allocated him to a zoological order. As a cricket batsman I was only a shadow of Gary Sobers, in boxing of Muhammad Ali, in sprint of Jesse Owen, and in football of Pelé. But to my admirers I excelled because the midnight hue was indivisibly interlocked with beastly strength. In the same vein, my own academic shortcomings were attributed to just that aspect of myself. The African could not be expected to be brainy because he was only marginally human. But then when I scooped the O-levels with flying colours, either I must have cheated, or the examiners were part of some vast conspiracy to get me through. No other explanation seemed possible. Colour related animosity degrades and dehumanises its victims in a way that ordinary forms of prejudice do not. Surpassing the pain of racist epithets was the constant, built-in arrogance of ignorance with which my fellows approached matters Africana. This was a far cry from a five-year experience of English life at a preparatory school beforehand, with next to no reference to colour by pupil or teacher. At Eton I applied strong-arm tactics, beating up many tormentors. As hopelessly outnumbered as I was, still – there was fulfilment at the sight of bloodied white faces agonising in tears. I should say we were evenly matched. But the ‘marriage’ could have been better. I left with mixed feelings. I had absorbed the niceties of royal English breeding, finesse and decorum, good manners and social etiquette, all of which instilled the confidence that I could hold my own anywhere in the world. Inevitably one lives and breathes the joys of upper-class refinement. All the same, Eton College was never created with an African background in mind. For that reason, I was resolved not to allow any of my sons to tread its hallowed corridors. Experiences with ‘colour’ issues there were not so deep as to prevent my later marrying across the colour line to an English lady of class and mesmerising beauty. I even carried her off to my Nigerian roots. The marriage could have continued beyond its meaningful six-year duration but for challenges not unrelated to cultural discrepancies. My decision to publish my experiences at Eton College earned me a ban from visiting the school ‘until further notice’ when my story was serialised in a London magazine, followed by publication in volume book form in 1972. After the book had its run for its money, the global Black Lives Matter agitations earned me an unsolicited public apology from the headmaster for the race-related challenges I had experienced during my time, and a rescinding of the 1970 ban. The Covid-19 plague has since prevented my revisiting the school to formally accept the apology. Global interest in my story (initially titled Nigger at Eton) was reawakened, championed by Booker Prize-winning literary luminary Professor Bernardine Evaristo, who became curator of a series for Penguin Books called Black Britain: Writing Back. It sought to resurrect out-of-print literary classics by black pen-pushers, and my book – now retitled A Black Boy at Eton – fitted the bill. It was subsequently re-launched in February 2022. Since my departure in 1969 Eton College has submitted to the wind of change, bringing a generous amount of choice black coffee to blend with its TT milk! At least 10 per cent is now integrated into its refined milk. But notwithstanding the grim warning of the global Black Lives Matter agitations that enough is enough, with many darker faces now being represented in key positions of governance in Britain, the Englishman has merely dissembled his supremacist attitudes. No amount of diplomacy will diminish the truism that the Caucasian can never accept his African counterpart to be his equal except before God – and it is possible that he may not accept even that qualification. How they will get on dealing with the sub-Saharan nations in these enlightened days, only God knows. A Black Boy at Eton (Penguin, £9.99) is out now 

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PHOTOS: DILLIBE ONYEAMA

n face value a pupil from south of the Sahara, with his special cultural circumstances, would be something of an eccentric choice for an Eton College education. Founded by King Henry VI in 1440, Eton reigned supreme during the era of the British Empire. At that time it was producing the leaders most needed to ‘show the flag’ and spread the word of British power and wisdom among the ‘backward’ peoples in whose lands the crown had established acquisitive occupancy. On the home front its traditional role was to provide for an already selected minority of British society a privileged education that equipped them to fulfil their purpose – predestined by birth – as pillars of the ruling class and leaders of the establishment. It is difficult to see how a sub-Saharan pupil would ordinarily fit into such a scheme. A native of Nigeria, I was dumped down there at great expense in January 1965 among some 1,200 pupils – all white save one. For four years I imbibed the TT milk of English scholastic refinement, although not the best. Even the Eton Boating Song anthem defers to the superior academic prowess of a noted rival – ‘Rugby may be more clever…’ – lampooning the loud-mouth of another claimant to the imperial throne – ‘Harrow may make more row’. But it was not easy to draw an inference that a pupil of midnight hue was welcome in the solidarity song, ‘But we shall row together...’ By virtue of having been crafted by royal hands, Eton was automatically placed a cut above the madding crowd. The charge of being an eyesore could not ordinarily be levelled at the sight of aristocrats walking with majestic gait in their gaudy attire of black tailcoats, striped trousers and bow tie. Such a feast to the eye, which attracts tourists in droves, appeared to become an ‘eyesore’ only when it involved a specimen of midnight hue in the same attire. ‘Well, I’ll be damned. Look what I found at Eton,’ the tourist might well have proclaimed on getting home with his photographs. A monkey wearing a tailcoat? Likewise, while passing motorists would doubtless glance with silent admiration at their future leaders, unlettered ones may shout, ‘What is that walking under the umbrella? You nigger, ha!’ or ‘Bongo, Bongo, get back to the Congo!’ Should the victim attempt to cock-a-snoot with his Negroid features in a swagger of snobbery, a slighted female passenger at the traffic lights would shout and wave a fist after him with the charge, ‘What do we ’ave ’ere, then, eh? Don’t you go off thinking you’re the Queen of Sheba? ‘Cos you’re not. We’ll ’ave to call in the Salvation Army to save us from you lot.’ But the goodies ruled supreme. Here were the world’s most privileged pupils. There was supreme quality cuisine, supreme quality education, supreme quality games and sports facilities, supreme quality recreation and outings, visits by royal dignitaries, lectures by world figures, world-class theatre, world-class Olympic-sized swimming pool, supreme quality bed-sitting rooms, supreme quality classrooms, two state-of-the-art chapels, Ascot-like celebrations of King George III’s birthday, Christmaslike festivities on Founder’s day, supreme quality traditions of dignity, courtesy and culture… and, and, and – supreme quality insults! The insults between the milk-coloured pupils were mainly petty snide remarks, often involving horseplay. But when the pupil of midnight hue engaged in the same horseplay, he was indicted for homosexual tendencies and rejected with racial venom by contaminated schoolmates. Fortunately, a more tolerant and understanding schoolmate qualified the truism. ‘I know you’re not queer. Nobody would agree to be queer with you – because you’re black.’


PHOTOS: DILLIBE ONYEAMA

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Dillibe in his Eton uniform; with his housemates; with the Eton athletics team; Eton College School Yard; pupils play the Eton Wall Game

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OPENING YOUR

DOORS

FROM ABOVE: Everyrealm invests in real estate in the metaverse

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Does the metaverse offer a new way for grand country house owners to capitalise on their assets? CHRIS STOKEL-WALKER investigates

I

n the 18 years since its founding, Facebook has come to dominate our lives - but for the next decade, the company has undergone a rebrand. Now called Meta, it’s shunning social media and moving into the metaverse – a digital, immersive representation of our world accessible through virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technology. Meta founder Mark Zuckerberg has pledged to invest billions of dollars a year into the metaverse to make it a reality. He’s not alone. The metaverse holds enormous potential for those willing to invest in it, according to its proponents, and could end up helping the owners of some of the country’s grandest houses foot the bills for repairs to their real-life homes by earning cash through their digital alternatives. There is precedent for digital facsimiles of real-world buildings and attractions, says Nick Sherrard, who previously worked for the Tower of London and tried to develop a version of it in Second Life, a mid-2000s immersive video game that is widely seen as a predecessor to the metaverse we’re on the cusp of today. ‘There was a Second Life version of the Tower of London and Second Life versions of various English Heritage sites,’ he says. Sherrard, who is now a partner at venture studios Label Ventures, is investigating the opportunity for similar sites in the heritage centre to enter the metaverse today. Those initial destinations in Second Life, which was released in 2003 and at its peak had an enormous economy of players who paid money to buy items within the game, didn’t last much beyond the game’s initial

success. But they came too early, reckons Sherrard. ‘It wasn’t a great experience because the technology wasn’t great,’ he says. ‘There is something interesting about what’s possible now, in terms of mobilising smaller communities to become something bigger.’ He suggests that the owners of private homes who want to finance repairs and the upkeep of their property, but don’t want tourists traipsing through the building, could offer digital alternatives part-based in the metaverse and using other technology associated with Web3, the overarching development of the internet of which the metaverse is a key part. Visitors could pay for access to the digitised version of a building in the metaverse and build up loyalty points that would allow them to then get exclusive access to the real thing, should they visit. Alternatively, the artwork that lines the walls of grand country homes could be digitised and turned into non-fungible tokens (NFTs), another tenet of the Web3 revolution, that could be bought by collectors, raising cash along the way. ‘It would enable people to genuinely co-own something and monetise people’s interest in the things homeowners may own,’ says Sherrard. In order to realise the potential of the metaverse, you’ve first got to get into it. And, just like real life, those looking to build somewhere need land. Many of the metaverse providers currently selling parcels of land, including Decentraland, Sandbox and Enjin, charge wildly different prices. ‘Buyers gain access to a “game builder” that allows them to not only 3D-design creations like buildings but also characters and games within the metaverse,’ says Janine Yorio, chief executive officer of Everyrealm, which invests in real estate in the metaverse. ‘People have bought up parcels of land over Oxford Circus, Covent Garden, Times Square in New York – all over the place,’ adds Dave Carr of Parcel, a metaverse real estate company. Once you’ve bought a parcel of metaverse-based land, you can build on it. George Bileca, chief executive officer of metaverse architecture firm Voxel Architects, has recreated digital versions of grand homes and galleries in the metaverse. ‘The main reason someone would want a representation of their house is that it would live forever in the metaverse and wouldn’t be affected by time and deterioration,’ he says. Bileca can imagine a number of different ways to monetise any property in the metaverse, including charging admission by gating the entrance to the digital version of a building. Voxel Architects can take traditional architectural May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 97

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FROM ABOVE: Voxel Architects takes traditional architectural plans of a building and transforms them into a 3D model; SuperWorld is a virtual world where users can buy, sell, collect and curate over 64 billion unique plots of virtual land

Diving headlong into the metaverse is a step people should carefully consider before doing so, in large part because for all those who embrace the concept and potential of the metaverse, there’s likely to be equal backlash. One area that those opposed to the metaverse point to? The technology’s eco-credentials. Because of its nascent nature it’s impossible to define exactly, but the high-quality graphics, live-streaming internet connections and vast volumes of data required to make the metaverse work will likely create a significant carbon footprint. A single artificial intelligence model, which could be seen as an equivalent computing task, creates five times as much carbon dioxide emissions as the average car, according to researchers at the University of Massachusetts. The reputational risk of entering the metaverse doesn’t just extend to its green credentials, however. Teething issues with the metaverse have included problems around inappropriate content, sexual harassment and digital violence. While you’re not likely to fall victim to metaverse muggers, if someone comes across worrying content while on your land, the negative repercussions could blow back to you. Yet despite the naysayers and the numerous risks, there is an opportunity there for future-facing individuals willing to take a chance on it becoming the next big thing. Zuckerberg, its current architect, hopes to bring a billion people into the metaverse by the end of the decade. It’s a bold prediction – but if it does, that’s an awful lot of money for those willing to open their digital doors. 

plans of a building and transform them into a 3D model, with details like wall colour and brickwork filled in using reference photographs of the building. The whole process can take up to two months and doesn’t come cheap. ‘We’re talking tens of thousands of dollars,’ Bileca says – that’s before you even consider the cost of buying the land itself. Parcel’s Carr recommends buying in sooner rather than later, suggesting that the metaverse is at an inflection point just before widespread adoption. Augmented reality glasses, which will overlay digital elements onto the real world, will soon be released – including rumoured plans from Apple, makers of the iPhone. ‘That’s probably going to onboard people to the metaverse more than any of these virtual world projects that have been around for a few years now,’ Carr says. Bileca is also bullish on buying in now. ‘The answer would be the same to why buy physical land now and not 10 years later?’ he says. ‘Ten years later it’s going to be ten times more expensive.’ Some people are sitting on sections of metaverse ‘land’ as speculators, while others are turning them into interactive digital experiences – or letting out their land to organisations that are. Plenty of technology firms, including Samsung, have built their own destinations within the metaverse. But it’s not simply a case of ‘build it and they will come,’ says Carr. ‘This is a question we always ask brands: What do you intend on doing with the land? What’s the experience? What can you offer people? Why would people visit the property?’ Carr could see plenty of potential for properties in the metaverse. ‘There’s a lot to be said for overseas visitors who don’t necessarily have a National Trust pass or aren’t in proximity to a great home to be able to move through that space,’ he says. ‘There’s certainly a lot of interest for a foreign audience.’ 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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TUNE IN TO BREAKOUT CULTURE Want to be in on the cultural conversations? Tune in every week to Break Out Culture, where hosts Ed Vaizey and Charlotte Metcalf chat with some of Britain’s most iconic cultural figures like Tracey Emin

On demanding that her artwork More Passion is taken out of Downing Street: ‘Neon is notoriously good for good feeling, good atmosphere, party atmosphere, gambling, Las Vegas, brothels, nightclubs, bars and I do not think Number Ten needs any more help with that kind of stuff at the moment, especially not my neon. They don’t need any more passion in that house. They’re making their own parties and showing the world they can party when noone else can. My neon needs to go somewhere where people really need to feel better and feel uplifted.’ On her new foundation, an affordable artists' studio space in Margate: ‘What I would like to install in this place is [the idea] that it's not about wanting to be an artist, but [the reality of] being an artist, feeling like an artist. So what I'm going to do is take care of the things that make you suffer, like freezing cold studios, not being able to pay the studio rent or eating during the a day or whatever. All they [the artists] have to do is work really hard and change their work and push themselves and make themselves feel confident to go out there and be an artist.' On politics: 'I have to put the politics thing straight. I voted Tory twice in my life. The rest of the time I voted Labour. I'm right in the centre of all politics and your [Ed Vaizey's] party was very much of the centre at that time. Being astute and clever and financially sassy as an artist is often looked down upon. It's often considered that you’re sold out or whatever, but I haven’t sold out.' On fighting cancer: 'What happens is you think you're going to die. You're told that you possibly are going to die. That you’re possibly not going to be around at Christmas. And so you think: right, I accept all that. And then, wow, you fight it and you are around at Christmas and then you're around the next Christmas. And then you realise that life continues. Life is still a struggle. Life is still difficult. But you can have this high, this amazing high of surviving and living and getting through this awful thing. But then you have to confront life.' On her new show: 'When I came out of hospital, I couldn't even stand or walk properly or anything. Carl [Freedman] has a print workshop next door, Counter Editions. He set up lots of etching plates, and I drew this really weird series of self-portraits. And then after Christmas, I was feeling so much physically stronger and I did these giant mono screen prints, seven of them. The show's called A Journey to Death. Carl said, ‘No, surely you are wrong. It's a journey from death.’ So I changed it to A Journey From Death, but I felt that it was wrong. It had to be ‘to death’. So now I've changed it back.' ‘A Journey to Death’ is at the Carl Freedman Gallery, Margate, from 24 April to 19 June (carlfreedman. com). To listen to the full conversation and to discover hundreds of other interviews, search for Breakout Culture on your podcast platform.

countryandtownhouse.com/podcasts @countryandtown

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Cotswolds

QUEEN merry swathe of daffodils lines the park opposite No.131 hotel on Cheltenham’s handsome Regency Promenade, nodding their heads in the spring sunshine. It’s a quintessentially English picture, but inside the building’s grand façade it’s a whole other story. Here, decadent black panelling, decorated by Japanese artworks, is set off by a gold leaf vaulted ceiling and presided over by a glittering chandelier. On top of the bar Jade Holland Cooper is perched in a draped white Alexandre Vauthier gown, having her picture taken. It’s the launch day of Yoku, the hotel’s new Japanese-inspired restaurant and Jade’s latest creative venture. ‘I really wanted to create somewhere where you feel you can properly dress up,’ she explains over green tea and Diet Coke once the photos are done. ‘For women who have had that dress waiting in their wardrobe, which they previously couldn’t wear until they went to London, now we have opened Yoku so they can wear it any night of the week.’ And it’s not just the interiors that offer a wow-factor: the menu, stuffed with hand-rolled sushi, fresh sashimi from the south coast and crowd-pleasing favourites like miso black cod, is designed to share and presented with panache – here, you’re very much encouraged to Instagram your dinner. ‘Japanese food really lends itself to theatre. It’s contemporary and chic,’ explains Jade.

Jubilee Longline Regency coat, £799

‘We travel a lot, and we've eaten in a lot of Japanese restaurants, so we wanted to bring a bit of New York, Paris and London to Cheltenham.’ Yoku and No.131 are owned by Jade and her husband Julian, who also owns Superdry. Together, they make quite the Cotswolds power couple, with Jade’s Holland Cooper brand beloved by the countryside cognoscenti for its contemporary classics. It wasn’t always like this. Jade started her eponymous fashion brand from scratch aged just 21, after a year at the Royal Agricultural College (RAC) – she turned down London College of Fashion to attend. Until the idea for Holland Cooper came to her, she was planning on returning to Suffolk to run the family farm. ‘I'm so thankful I did [go to the RAC] because that's where I saw the vision for Holland Cooper,’ says Jade. ‘I think if I’d gone to fashion college, I would never have done this. If you want to succeed in retail you’ve got to find your niche. You’ve got to find something you can own and a reason for people to buy it.’ In person, Jade is tall and poised, with quiet grit and determination that bubbles under the surface of her bronzed skin. Her business acumen is clear: from a germ of an idea and skirts made by a local seamstress and sold at agricultural and country shows, she’s built up a multi-million-pound retail company. She opened a new flagship boutique

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

Jade Holland Cooper’s clothing brand is thriving, with sales soaring and new boutiques opening. As she sets her sights on hospitality, AMY WAKEHAM talks food, fashion and fortune with the ambitious entrepreneur

100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

Jade Holland Cooper in the brand's design studio

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just outside Cheltenham in October 2021, and at the Cheltenham Festival in March this year the Holland Cooper stand was besieged by customers after the haute country look that Jade has bottled so cannily. One of her fans is the Duchess of Cambridge, who sported a Holland Cooper Knightsbridge coat to a Six Nations match at Twickenham in February, and a Fair Isle jumper for her appearance on CBeebies in the same month. ‘I think she's very authentic in what she wears,’ considers Jade. ‘The products get called in by her stylists and then I think she chooses what she would like to wear from a rail. We're proud to work with her and have her wearing the products. We’re a heritage British brand and she is an icon – there is no better person.’ At the heart of Holland Cooper is its commitment to British craftsmanship, and its tailoring collection of finely cut coats, field jackets and shearling-trimmed capes all made in Britain. ‘There are not that many brands that do all of their tailoring in the UK at this scale,’ explains Jade. ‘All of our tailoring, all of our tweed, is hand cut and made in the UK, and all the wool is from Scotland. Our fedora hats are made by Christys' in the Cotswolds in the old school way and our leatherware is made down in Somerset. We are championing a lot of UK factories.’ In her rare free moments when not working, Jade spends her time with her one-year-old daughter, Saphaïa, usually at the family’s £50m country pile, which is just outside Cheltenham and around the corner from the Holland Cooper flagship boutique. Why has Jade set her sights on this part of the

world in particular? ‘I think it’s the perfect fusion of London and the countryside,’ she explains. ‘There’s a real buzz and it’s a fun crowd.’ And her and Julian’s plans for the county are only just getting started. Next on the list is an ‘amazing Cotswolds tasting restaurant’ next to No.131 and Yoku, with the idea being that the hotel becomes a ‘destination for food lovers’. For Holland Cooper, Jade’s vision is that it becomes ‘the British lifestyle brand’, with a bigger international presence. As we finish our drinks and before Jade moves onto the next appointment in her hectic schedule, I ask about the secrets to success that she wants to pass on her daughter. ‘I want her to learn, like I learnt from my parents, that nothing comes for free,’ Jade says. ‘You’ve got to work for everything. It’s really important, especially if they’re coming into a privileged environment, to give kids a sense of grounding and drive to achieve something. Because money on its own makes people miserable. A fulfilled life is a happy relationship and something to work for.’ Wise words to live by. Watch this space – the newly crowned Queen of the Cotswolds has grand ambitions up her British-made tweed sleeve. no131.com/yoku; hollandcooper.com 

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; SHUTTERSTOCK

FROM TOP: Yoku brings glamour to Cheltenham; Platinum Jubilee silk scarf, £149; the Duchess of Cambridge in Holland Cooper

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The subtle art of ageing well… from Botox to supplements

THE

Edited by Annabel Jones

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

Contents 108

111

BEAUTY BOOSTS New things to try CAN POPPING A PILL REALLY IMPROVE YOUR SKIN? The lowdown on supplements that work

116

TWEAKMENTS IN A BOTTLE Great skin you can squeeze from a tube

120

BANKING ON FAT Is fat the secret to eternal youth?

125

THE SMILE HIGH CLUB Drilling down on teeth

131

I’LL HAVE WHAT THEY’RE HAVING Tweakments we’ve tried and tested

143

LITTLE BLACK BOOK Your guide to the best aesthetic doctors

FASHION TEAM Photographer: Matthew Shave; Fashion Editor: Ursula Lake; Hair: Alex Price @ Frank; Make-Up: Jamie Rose; Nails: Emma Welsh @ Frank. Model: Camille @ Milk Management. For stockists see p172. TOP RIGHT Juste Un Clou ring, Cartier; Vitamin pill, Lyma

EDITOR’S LETTER

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elcome to the second edition of the Country & Town House Aesthetic Guide, a curated edit of the best new and existing tweakments on the beauty scene. In this edition, our team of trusted experts have reviewed 15 of the latest non-surgical procedures to get summer ready, from Profhilo for the body to a revolutionary new fat burning laser with zero downtime. Within these pages you’ll also read about the advancements in cosmetic dentistry from whitening and straightening to minimally invasive veneers, as well as a thoughtprovoking report on whether freezing your fat cells could hold the answer to eternal youth. For a youthful complexion we’ve rounded up the few beauty supplements proven to heal your skin from within, while our deep dive into the skincare that dermatologists swear by is one you’ll want to keep and share. I hope you’ll find our guide as practical as it is enlightening.

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© Valérie Lade

Mykonos www.baobabcollection.com

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

BEAUTY BOOSTS Get summer ready with a host of new face and body treats from lip plumping to glow boosting, says Annabel Jones

GENERATION AGELESS

KOREAN PERFECTION

SUNSHINE STATE The only safe way to tan. For a grown-up bronzed glow, Isle of Paradise’s self-tanning oil mist (£21.95, theisleofparadise. com) has been formulated with high quality oil-soluble tanning actives in a sheer water base that boosts the skin’s natural moisture levels. For face, Jones Road’s new Shimmer face oil, (£29, jonesroadbeauty.com) is a lightweight make-up-skin hybrid that naturally hydrates and enlivens the complexion.

Aesthetic therapist Mina Lee combines Korean healing and facial massage with advanced skin technologies in her famed Spectacle facial (£268, minalee.london) to rejuvenate and improve the complexion. Meanwhile, dermatologist Dr Jinah Yoo has launched the Dr Yoo 360 Korean Method treatment (£500, drjinahyoodermatology.com), during which she performs her unique ‘laser layering’ technique along with mini skin-boosting injectables and complexion boosting oxygen therapy for healthier, clearer, ‘fresh air’ skin.

LIP SERVICE Rosie Huntingdon-Whiteley is a fan of Naturopathica’s lip scrub

GENTLY DOES IT

The new school of thought when it comes to flawless skin long term is to prevent and calm inflammation while protecting the skin barrier. Dr Barbara Sturm is scoring points with her latest hit, The Better B Niacinamide serum (£110, drsturm. com), which is packed with vitamins B3 and B5, plus marine plankton, to aid the skin’s natural restorative processes. Augustinus Bader’s newest offering is The Ultimate Soothing cream (£215, augustinusbader.com), an ointment scientifically proven to hydrate, reduce redness and calm signs of inflammation. Royal Fern’s new Radiance Protection face mist (£43, royalfern.com), harnesses hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to protect against urban pollution and blue light whilst moisturising and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

The Laser Lip Lift is a new needle-free treatment that improves the appearance of lips in just ten minutes. Created by Dr Esho in collaboration with Alma’s new Hybrid laser, it treats the surface and border of the lips to improve volume and texture. Perfect for those who want a visible but naturallooking pout (£200 per treatment, eshoclinic.co.uk). Semi-permanent make-up artists Daxita Vaghela (@ daxitavaghela) and Nez Hasan (@ nezhasanofficial) offer believable ‘lip blushing’ tattooing to subtly enhance the colour and outline of the lips giving soft definition and fullness. On the go? Naturopathica’s Sweet Cherry Polishing lip scrub and lip butter (£18 each, naturopathica. com) are loved by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, who uses the scrub to prep lips before red carpet events.

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; GETTY IMAGES

GetHarley, the virtual platform of sought-after skin professionals from Dr Sophie Shotter to Dr Maryam Zamani, has introduced a genius new service, Mother & Me. Designed to encourage lifelong skin habits for both generations, the consultation brings mother and daughter together for 50 minutes of skin advice from teen acne to pigmentation, resulting in a detailed skincare prescription for each party. What’s more, your dedicated skin pro will be on hand for a further six months to answer any questions. £50, getharley.com

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PROMOTION

QUEEN OF KNIGHTSBRIDGE Look your natural best with Rita Rakus’s sought-after expertise and discerning touch

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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s we all prepare to celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, there is another celebrated figure who has an anniversary this year. Dr Rita Rakus, internationally heralded as ‘The Lip Queen’ for her skill with creating plump but natural-looking lips, and the ‘Machine Queen’ for the plethora of stateof-the-art devices she uses, is celebrating 30 years at the Rita Rakus Clinic in Knightsbridge. Looking your natural best for as long as you can is the ethos behind the clinic which is at the forefront of anti-ageing. If you have a particular cosmetic concern or want to rejuvenate your overall appearance without surgery, the clinic is a haven of all the latest, safest, results-driven aesthetic treatments carried out by Dr Rakus and her support team of highly experienced medical experts. It’s Dr Rakus’ passion for providing patients with a first-rate treatment with exceptional customer service from start to finish, while prioritising safety and good practice that led her to co-found the British College of Aesthetic Doctors (BCAM) 20 years ago. As if that accolade is not enough, she is also the only aesthetic doctor to be featured on the Wall of Honour at The Royal Society of Medicine. Her esteemed team members include facial plastic and ENT surgeon, Mr Kambiz, who performs advanced laser, FX stem, PRP, botox

Dr Rita Rakus

Dr Galyna Selezneva

Dr Kambiz Golchin

and filler and Dr Galyna Selezneva, a bodysculpting expert who has honed, sculpted and reshaped some of the most famous bodies in the world. The only treatments that find their way into the clinic are those that Dr Rakus and her team believe in, and most importantly, that work. It’s this meticulousness that led to Dr Rakus becoming a Global Ambassador for Emsculpt Neo, the world’s first and only technology that combines Radiofrequency and HIFEM (high intensity electromagnetic field) to eliminate fat by 30 per cent and build 25 per cent more muscle non-invasively. They are the first clinic in the UK to have Softwave – a treatment that triggers the body’s healing response to stimulate collagen and has attracted celebrities such as Karen Brady CBE. Another first is ADVATx technology, which uses yellow light to help treat skin conditions like rosacea, pigmentation, lines and wrinkles. Extra options to perk things up on the body and face are Exilis Elite, a non-invasive treatment for the reduction of wrinkles and the reshaping of targeted fat deposits with results often visible after the first session, and the Endolift laser, Thermage FLX (radiofrequency), and UltraCel Q+. With new clinics opening in Dubai, Cannes and LA, where she caters to an increasing number of celebrities from the film world, it appears the demand for Dr Rakus’ skills has spread across the globe Dr Rita Rakus, 34 Hans Rd, London SW3, +44 (0)20 7460 7324; drritarakus.co.uk

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P R O M OT I O N Dr Ahmed El Muntasar uses strategic dermal fillers to sculpt and reshape facial features

BALANCING ACT

With clinics in London, Leeds and Cheshire, Dr Ahmed El Muntasar is blazing a trail with profiloplasty to improve the harmony of facial features feature. ‘Perfect symmetry doesn’t exist,’ says Dr. Ahmed. ‘Profiloplasty involves looking at the relationship between different facial features. I usually divide the face into thirds and look at the ratio of each one compared to the others. When it comes to the profile, it’s about balancing the line between the nose, lip and chin. If someone has either a disproportionately large nose or an underdeveloped chin this can create an imbalance to the face.’ Profiloplasty itself usually involves two procedures with pain kept to a minimum by first applying a numbing cream to the area. Nonsurgical rhinoplasty, also known as ‘liquid rhinoplasty’, involves using dermal fillers to straighten the bridge of the nose or to lift and refine the tip. Next fillers are injected at different angles and depths along the chin and jawline to adjust the projection of the chin. ‘Respecting the anatomy here is crucial as the proportions of the chin can make someone’s face appear more masculine or feminine,’ explains Dr Ahmed. Both procedures can be completed in as little as 20 minutes with results lasting up to 18 months. For more information on profiloplasty and Dr Ahmed’s other procedures, please visit theaestheticsdoctor.com

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

A

t one time, the only way you could create a more angular profile or smooth a bumpy nose was by going under the knife. Now an alternative solution has emerged: profiloplasty, a form of facial reshaping that involves injecting dermal filler into the nose and chin to balance facial features with virtually no downtime. ‘Dermal fillers strategically add volume,’ says award-winning aesthetics doctor and GP Dr Ahmed El Muntasar. ‘But when used in profiloplasty they can realign facial features and create a more harmonious profile, which is a revolutionary approach.’ Dr Ahmed has been performing profiloplasty for almost five years but has noted a dramatic increase in requests for the procedure since the pandemic. ‘One reason is the “Zoom effect” as an increasing number of people are seeing their facial structures on screen,’ he says. ‘Furthermore, as we age, the chin and nose, in particular, become more obviously disproportionate because we lose volume from other parts of our face that might otherwise camouflage those imperfections.’ Identifying the holistic proportions of a patient’s face during the initial consultation is not about cookie cutter looks or focusing on one particular

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

CAN POPPING A PILL REALLY IMPROVE YOUR SKIN? Fiona Embleton investigates

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here’s a new raft of beauty supplements taking the market by storm, and they’re nothing like their frumpy, utilitarian predecessors. Rather, they’re powered by science-backed ingredients and packaged in sleek bottles that are more likely to appear in an upmarket clinic than the dust-covered shelves of a health food shop. This, says Lucy Goff, founder of Lyma, is the new era of ‘well-tech’: high performance ingestibles that can offer profound results for skin, sleep, gut health and mood. ‘Like “clean beauty” wellness is a woolly, generic term, whereas “well-tech” is about clinically proven formulations that take people beyond the ceiling of a healthy, balanced diet to deliver mental and physical advantages,’ she says. Advances in the supplement space also mean that most aesthetic concerns can be addressed by palming a pill. Where glow enhancing make-up used to suffice, now the focus has shifted to ingestible boosters that improve skin’s natural radiance from the inside out. ‘It makes sense,’ says Shabir Daya, pharmacist and CEO at Victoria Health. ‘Skin is your largest organ and it can say a lot about your health. A lot of nutrients that are famously found in skincare, including vitamin C, ceramides and lipids, have to be provided from within the body to make a real difference to the skin.’ Designed to help you look good and feel better, these new-gen formulations can be as good as, or better than, skincare at boosting collagen and hyaluronic acid stores thanks to what Daya calls ‘intelligent delivery systems’, which for the uninitiated means they should be formulated in a bioavailable way that the body can tolerate. Unsurprisingly, beauty brands now want a piece of the action, with Bloomberg reporting that the global beauty supplements market is expected to surpass a value of £2.795m by 2027. The water is murky, though – just because a pill was created in a lab, doesn’t mean it delivers results. The key, says Wild Nutrition’s Lorna Driver-Davies, ‘is to avoid unnecessary fillers (often listed as bulking agents) such as magnesium stearate and ultimately be aware that we have different nutritional needs at different life stages’. As for the vitamins and minerals we need to boost our skin, hair and general health? Here are the most transformational...

GUT INSTINCTS

BEST FOR IMMUNITY Dubbed the ‘sunshine vitamin’, vitamin D is a hormone that’s produced when skin is exposed to the sun’s UVB rays. ‘It’s essential as your body needs it to absorb calcium for healthy teeth and bones,’ says Daya. Post pandemic, vitamin D is also being touted as an immunity booster. ‘All cells involved in immunity that engulf viruses entering the body have a vitamin D receptor site,’ he explains. ‘So as well as responding to vitamin D, these cells will also remain inactive if you are deficient, increasing your chances of infection.’ A lack of sunshine in the winter months and wearing sunscreen in summer mean the best way to top up your levels is through supplementation. Daya recommends 2000iu daily in winter and 1000iu in summer, administered as a sublingual spray under the tongue or via a liposomal supplement (when vitamin D3 is encapsulated alongside healthy fats). This ensures the vitamin D3 bypasses the stomach and is delivered rapidly into the bloodstream. Try: The Nue Co Vitamin D, £15. uk.thenueco.com

There’s a strong interplay between the health of your gut and skin conditions such as eczema, acne, rosacea and plain old sensitivity. It’s the subject of ongoing research, but it’s thought the trillions of bacteria that live on the gut microbiome play a part. ‘Research shows differences in the type and diversity of gut microbes in those with inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema compared to those without,’ says Dr Sammie Gill, specialist gastroenterology dietitian. Not only that, but 70 per cent of your immune system is located in the gut. ‘They are constantly talking to one another, so if we’re not optimising our gut health it can alter our immune responses, prompting the release of inflammatory molecules, which potentially increase the risk of skin conditions,’ she adds. A probiotic supplement is something to consider if your skin is persistently suffering. ‘Probiotics work in several ways,’ explains Gill. ‘They may prompt the release of beneficial molecules from other microbes; they can help weed out potentially harmful bacteria or keep the immune system in check.’ Try: Symprove, £79 for a four week pack. symprove.com

HYDRATION HIT Hyaluronic acid is skincare’s gold standard for hydration. ‘It works like a sponge,’ explains Daya, ‘holding over 1,000 times its own weight in water to plump cells full of moisture.’ Likewise, hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that our skin readily accepts as our body naturally produces it. But the older we get, the less we produce, leading to fine lines and slack skin. According to Daya, hyaluronic acid, when ingested, reduces skin dehydration and prevents inflammation, making it a great ally to your smoothing serums. ‘Hyaluronic acid supplements additionally top up reserves in the joint cartilage and remove cellular waste from in between cells, transporting them by osmosis to the nearest blood vessel,’ he says. Opt for a daily 100mg to 300mg dose of sodium hyaluronate (a salt of hyaluronic acid), which has a low molecular weight to aid absorption. Try: Victoria Health Hyaluronic Acid Capsules High Strength, £35 for 30 capsules. victoriahealth.com

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Ingestible skincare products can improve skin from the inside out Vitamin pill, Lyma, Juste un Clou yellow gold bracelet, Cartier

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

THE SKINPLUMPING ELIXIR

THE ALL-ROUNDER Research shows that over 98 per cent of us have inadequate levels of omega-3 fatty acids. Deficiency makes itself known in myriad ways, including dry skin, brittle hair, brain fog and hormonal issues. Despite not producing omega 3, to function optimally, every cell in the body needs these fatty acids, which is why nutritionist Driver-Davies recommends supplementing with 500mg of fish-based omega 3 every morning when your production of digestive enzymes is at its peak. ‘As well as being a big player in cardiovascular health and anything involving the immune system, omega 3 can calm skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or sensitivity caused by a compromised skin barrier,’ she says. Likewise, it staves off ‘inflammageing’, where excess inflammation inhibits cell renewal. ‘Then there’s omega 3’s moisturising properties,’ says Driver-Davies, ‘and its ability to manufacture ceramides in the skin, which lock water into cells.’ So, how to guarantee omega 3 success? ‘A good fish oil should contain 0.0 levels of toxins such as mercury and be sustainably sourced,’ explains Driver-Davies. ‘Also important: it should be coldpressed to avoid oxidisation.’ Try: Wild Nutrition Pure Strength Omega 3, £32 for 30 days. wildnutrition.com

‘Collagen is a protein that makes up about 75 per cent of the dry weight of skin, helping it to remain plump and firm,’ says Pupinder Ghatora, pharmacist and co-founder of Ingenious supplements. ‘It also plays a crucial part in our body’s structure as it’s found in ligaments and major organs, so having sufficient stores is vital for overall health.’ But like all good things, collagen starts to dwindle in our mid-twenties and we lose about 1.5 per cent per year. Given collagen is too large a molecule to penetrate the skin when deployed in skincare, experts now agree a supplement could help. But not all ingestible collagen is created equal. ‘It needs to be a protected collagen peptide to ensure actual collagen is entering the bloodstream,’ says Ghatora, ‘otherwise it breaks down into individual amino acids in the stomach.’ He also advises choosing marine over bovine collagen as it can be broken down into smaller peptides for easier absorption. To ensure the quality of a collagen supplement, check that its weight is below 2,000 Daltons – enough to pass through the intestinal wall and enter the bloodstream. Try: Ingenious Beauty Ultimate Collagen, £60 for 90 capsules. feelingenious.com

THE SUPER SUPPLEMENTS For those who prefer an all-in-one approach that promotes optimum health rather than plugging a specific gap in your diet, at the top end of the market, Lyma harnesses the power of patented prescription-grade nutraceuticals as part of its preventative ageing approach (£199 for 30 days, lyma.life). ‘If a formula is correctly engineered, there’s no reason why you can’t deliver a 360˚ approach,’ says Goff (pictured). ‘Every single one of our ingredients has been proven to work in peerreviewed medical journals, the same benchmark as a pharmaceutical drug.’ These include Cynatine, which contains keratin for hair and skin, Cognizin for supplying the brain with energy and the most bioavailable form of curcumin, a powerful anti-inflammatory. ‘Cellular inflammation is the root cause of most things going wrong in your body,’ says Goff. ‘Once you reduce it, you’ll find you sleep better, feel less stressed and have a stronger immunity.’ Artah’s Enhanced Nootropics (£36 for 30 days, artah.co), the chic nutritional brand launched by Rhian Stephenson, a registered nutritional therapist and naturopath, similarly contains adaptogens to help the body cope with stress, alongside B vitamins for DNA repair. Meanwhile Altrient’s Liposomal Vitamin C has been proven (by Princeton, no less) to outshine topical Vitamin C at brightening and firming thanks to its impressive collagen and elastin production. Loved by Goop’s Gwyneth Paltrow, this clever food liquid supplement encapsulates the notoriously unstable nutrient within a protective lipid bubble that delivers it directly to cells. (£39.99 for 30 1000 mg sachets, altrient.com). 

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P R O M OT I O N Dr Joshua is renowned for his naturalistic tweaks to the eye area

AN EYE FOR DETAIL

A master at achieving the natural look, Dr Joshua has become synonymous with subtle results, particularly when it comes to rejuvenating the delicate eye area

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rising star on the injectable scene, Dr Joshua Van der Aa opened his injection-focused clinic in Harley Street in early 2020, and has already become one of the most sought-after injectors for natural and elegant results. ‘My clients expect a subtle look that respects the natural anatomy of the face. My work is all about enhancing what’s already there,’ says Dr Joshua, who is a vocal campaigner against extreme cosmetic procedure trends, and is often called upon to reverse poorly executed work. His speciality and passion lies in rejuvenating the delicate eye area, an art he’s honed with the meticulous use of injectables. A notoriously tricky procedure, tear trough filler has become an increasingly popular way to diminish dark circles under eyes. Yet, when not performed by an expert injector such as Dr Joshua, administering hyaluronic acid filler in such a thin area of the skin can leave patients with complications. The secret, he says, is understanding the cause. ‘There are five different types of under-eye grooves and dark

circles and so it’s crucial to assess each patient correctly and know what part of the anatomy needs treating.’ To address the demand for non-surgical brow lifts, Dr Joshua has created InclinEyesTM a unique tweakment that repositions the brow tail and elevates the arch for an ageless appearance that leaves the eye area refreshed and lifted – without the use of toxins or threads. Unlike a Botox brow lift that needs reinjecting every three to four months, InclinEyesTM lasts 12 to 18. A procedure that took more than two years to perfect, he strategically injects tiny amounts of filler with a cannula to gently enhance bony and soft tissue anatomy to lift and reshape the tail of the brow. ‘InclinEyesTM gives a subtle, more natural looking “fox eyes” appearance,’ he says. ‘And, more importantly, it’s altogether kinder and safer because it’s fully reversible.’ For a bespoke addition, Dr Joshua offers InclinEyes+ which includes an extra element to the treatment such as under eye or temple filler. drjoshualondon; drjoshua.co.uk

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

TWEAKMENTS IN A BOTTLE

Successful tweakments go hand-in-hand with the right products. But which ones do cosmetic doctors rely on for significant results? Ingeborg van Lotringen asks the experts

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ou might say we live in an era of skincare enlightenment. Never before have we been so aware of how our lifestyle choices and beauty regimes affect the health and look of our skin. We now know that good skin is not just a hand we’re dealt, but something we can affect ourselves by using certain skincare ingredients in a particular order. And yet in an effort to create our own dermal masterpieces, according to the experts we are increasingly overdoing it, inadvertently compromising our protective skin barrier and inducing product sensitivity: ‘I have seen so many patients with overly sensitised skin and even scarring from trying to layer too many products themselves at home,’ says Dr Amiee Vyas (doctoramiee.com). Ask skin doctors what they prescribe and most will recommend a simplified regime to fortify the skin’s hydrating, protective barrier for a well-rested glow. ‘Stress is truly destructive to skin, whether from internal anxiety or from an over-enthusiastic treatment,’ says Vyas. Like her peers, she advocates measured, conservative regimes that focus on healthy skin that looks its best at any age. Using fewer but better products is key: ‘I prescribe brands that have expertise in combining the right ingredients at the right percentages in a formula that minimises irritation and is enjoyable to use – in functional packaging that keeps the formula stable and active,’ says Dr Sam Bunting (drsambunting.com). Go to a dermatologist for your skincare and you’re sure to get results. ‘I research and test products myself and study their clinical trials in detail before I recommend them so I know which cosmetic products are effective at the deeper skin layers,’ adds Vyas. Clinically approved skincare is even more important if you dabble in tweakments, many of which rely on a level of ‘controlled damage’ to elicit a healing, anti-ageing response. ‘If skin isn’t functioning healthily, the trauma from, say, microneedling or lasers can damage and cause irritation that does more harm than good. The key is to increase patients’ skin barrier resilience before having a cosmetic tweakment to promote rapid healing and optimise results,’ says Dr Sophie Shotter (drsophieshotter.com). Of course, we all have varying skin concerns that require a prescriptive approach. Here’s what the doctors recommend for the most common dermatological conditions.

SENSITIVITY

DRYNESS Dehydrated skin is more prone to sensitivity, ageing and dullness. ‘The first thing to do is replenish moisture, locking it in with barrierstrengthening ceramides or lipids,’ says Vyas. ‘My key ingredients are polyhydroxy acids [PHAs] which gently exfoliate dry skin and improve barrier function while attracting water and offering antioxidant benefits.’ Vyas’s heroes are Neostrata Restore Facial Cleanser and Bionic Face Cream (£30 and £33.50, skincity.com). Clinical aesthetician Pamela Marshall (mortarandmilk.com) agrees, adding, ‘I recommend a lipid-based [i.e. milky] cleanser such as Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanser (£23, cultbeauty. co.uk), to remove the day’s environmental load without stripping skin of its protective lipids, followed with Exuviance Skinrise Morning Glow, (£36, skincity.com), for a dose of PHAs.’ For Dr Shotter, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to hydrate, nourish and heal parched skin is key. Go-tos include CeraVe Moisturising Lotion (£13, boots.com) and Tebiskin PLC (£25, via clinics).

Skin that is overactive can go red, angry and flaky. When left untreated this can lead to chronic skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema and even acne, which is an inflammatory issue. The rules for dry skin apply here, but what you don’t do is as important: ‘I always suggest clients pull back on their AHAs [alpha hydroxy acid] such as glycolic acid,’ says Marshall. ‘AHAs are incredible, but unlike PHAs they “wound” skin to induce a healing response. If skin is already sensitised, this is only going to compromise the barrier further.’ Other things to avoid are alcohol, sulphate cleansers, highstrength vitamins A (retinol) and C to maintain a calm environment. ‘I’m a fan of Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier (£14.95, boots.com), a cleansing/toning spray containing hypochlorous acid, which rebalances the skin’s microbiome and so reduces inflammation,’ says Shotter. Vyas recommends Skinbetter Science Alto Defense Serum (£134, via clinics, search aestheticsource.com): ‘It contains 19 different antioxidants to protect skin from oxidative stress alongside ceramides to replenish the skin barrier. It calms quickly and significantly reduces redness and inflammation in two weeks.’ For a (day and night) moisturiser, she

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Dress, Stella McCartney; Juste un Clou earrings, Cartier

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Swimsuit, Second Summer; Juste un Clou bracelet and ring, Cartier

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likes Spectacle Performance Crème (£76, spectacleskincare. com): ‘It’s packed with antioxidants and microdosed, gentle anti-ageing actives.’ Shotter relies on ultrahealing SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 (£135, skinceuticals.co.uk), while Dr Catharine Denning (drdenning. co.uk) recommends Calecim Multi-Action Cream (£187, calecimprofessional.com), rich in epidermal growth factors and cytokines.

gentle acids, but they’re just as effective as more aggressive ones at improving fine lines, firmness, pigmentation and texture. Add one into your routine for a few weeks, then slowly introduce a low-dose vitamin A (retinoid) at night or a vitamin C product for day.’ Marshall concurs: ‘I actually prefer cosmetic retinoids over prescription ones as they are less likely to cause a reaction.’ SkinCeuticals and Medik8 make very well-formulated retinoids, she says, but Neostrata Retinol Repair Complex (£53, skincity.com), is her favourite. As for l-ascorbic acid, the most potent form of vitamin C, ‘to be effective, it requires an intricate formula and should be dosed conservatively’. Denning is a fan of ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defence (£114.50, from clinics, search zo-skinhealth.co.uk).

SIGNS OF AGEING

PIGMENTATION

Wrinkles, sagging skin and uneven skin tone are all caused by slowing cell regeneration and a build-up of old (dead) cells on the skin’s surface. It’s why experts recommend the same basic programme of big-hitting actives to improve all the signs of ageing. To protect against environmental aggressors that destroy skin cells, using antioxidants and sunscreen is half the battle. ‘But these products require stability and a top-notch delivery system – Skinbetter Science Alto Defense Serum (£134, doctoramiee.com) is one such antioxidant serum,’ says Vyas. To bring about skin cell turnover, regeneration a nd rep a i r, retinoids, vitamin C derivatives, niacinamide and (conservative use of) acids make up the vanguard of ingredients that doctors recommend. ‘The most important thing is to start low and slow,’ says Vyas. ‘PHAs may be super-

Pigmentation is one sign of ageing that requires a strategy: ‘The pigmentation pathway can be interrupted at different points – and the more points you interrupt, the better the result,’ says Bunting. ‘So we can block the production of melanin, we can stop it being exported into our skin cells and we can speed up the exfoliation of it out of the cells. I love the combination of a retinoid, vitamin C, niacinamide and azelaic acid.’ The latter is brilliant for tackling pigmentation and features in her Dr Sam Flawless Brightly Serum (£44, drsambunting.com). Or try SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum, (£85, skinceuticals.co.uk), a favourite of Denning’s.

ACNE AND OILINESS Acne is complex and must be treated in a balanced way. ‘My go-to recipe is a synergistic combination of an antiinflammatory (niacinamide) to calm, alongside ingredients to prevent clogged pores (salicylic acid, retinoids) and tackle the dark marks blemishes leave behind (azelaic acid, bakuchiol),’ says Bunting. Denning says that a good retinoid is one of the best ways to prevent clogged pores at a cellular level. ‘Use it alongside an oil-soluble chemical exfoliant: salicylic acid, especially in concentrations of two per cent and up, is a stand-by.’ She rates ZO Skin Health retinols but adds, ‘when using such potent ingredients it’s crucial not to forget the skin barrier function. Replenishment with a non-oily, ceramide- rich moisturiser can help prevent the inf lammatory cycle. I love Curél Moisture Facial Milk (£17.50, boots. com).’

DROOPY, PUFFY, TIRED EYES Oculoplastic surgeon Mrs Rachna Murthy (facerestoration. com) points to some surprising culprits for ageing eyes: ‘Aggressive and alcoholcontaining cleansers, make-up, lash glue and lash serums destroy the skin barrier function and protective microbes in the eye area; I tackle this with Purifeyes hypochlorous periocular spray (£11.95, purifeyes.co.uk) to gently cleanse and reset the microbiome.’ Murthy rates vitamin C for brightening and smoothing eye skin, but ‘skin penetration is better in oil-based carriers, such as Revision Skincare Vitamin C Lotion 15% (£97.50, skincity.com)’. Neuropeptides are another winner:

‘they target nerve transmission in the eyelid muscles. Revision Skincare’s Revox Line Relaxer, (£147, skincity.com) is patentpending and hydrates as well as improves crow’s feet.’ Crepey skin, she says, is effectively reduced with Augustinus Bader’s amino acid-rich The Eye Cream (£150, cultbeauty.co.uk). Puffiness, she warns, is often due to poor lymphatic drainage, which is inefficiently tackled with skincare. Gentle daily lymphatic drainage massage (there are multiple how-to’s online) will give you better results.

THE PERFECT SPF Sunscreen is the most important product if you want to improve any skin condition. Luckily, there are some exceptional low-cost ones out there by La RochePosay and CeraVe. ‘But there are few as good as Heliocare – it has added antioxidants to boot,’ emphasises Marshall. When it comes to acne, ‘I recommend Exuviance Professional Sheer Refining Fluid SPF 40 (£44.80, facethefuture.co.uk), continues Marshall. ‘It’s formulated for blemish-prone skin and it’s never caused a breakout in any of my clients.’ And don’t forget your eyes: ‘An SPF 50 is essential for the area and should be used up to 5mm below the lash line,’ says Murthy. 

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Banking

Fat ON

Injecting fat cells into your face might sound frightening but this cutting-edge treatment could hold the secret to eternal youth, reports Becci Vallis

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Could using our own fat help keep our faces looking youthful? Swimsuit, Haight @ Matches Fashion; Juste un Clou ring and bracelet, Cartier

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W

hat if we told you that you already hold the key to ageing well forever more? Would you pay £10,000 to unlock the secret and futureproof your skin for years to come? Even for the sceptical, it’s certainly tempting – especially when you learn that the process is completely natural and gives longer-lasting results than traditional injectables and fillers. This seems increasingly important when you take into account that out of the three million Brits that have considered having a cosmetic treatment in 2022, 15 per cent are hesitant about introducing unnatural substances into their body.* ‘There’s a misconception that fillers are natural because they use hyaluronic acid which is present in our own skin but they’re made in a factory. They have their place, but they should be used sparingly, especially when more natural alternatives are available,’ says Dr Olivier Amar, a leading plastic surgeon and CMO of Uvence – one of the companies spearheading the new fat banking treatment. ‘Fat banking’ is a revolutionary technique that’s predicted to change the world of aesthetics. The epitome of personalisation, the process entails extracting fat cells from your body via liposuction which are then purified and filtered before being reinjected back into your face (or scalp, hands, décolleté, even your vagina). Regenerating, repairing and rejuvenating the skin, the leftover fat cells can then be frozen allowing for top ups as and when you need them, which can be for cosmetic purposes or to help the body heal from injury. ‘If enough fat is stored, a patient can benefit from that one deposit for years and in different areas of the body. For example, if initially the face was treated but as time passes they wish to regenerate the décolletage or hair, it can all be done from that initial fat taken via liposuction years earlier,’ explains Esther Fieldgrass, founder of EF Future Health. A two-treatment procedure, one session (usually around half an hour) is needed to extract the live fat cells via microcannula liposuction, with a second session required at a later date to reinject the cells into the face. It’s what happens in between the two procedures which is where the brilliance unfolds. Once the fat cells have been taken – usually from the outer thighs or bottom – they are transported to the lab, tested for purity and processed into what Fieldgrass describes as a ‘smart ageing elixir’ before being frozen. ‘Everything in the elixir comes from the patient’s tissue, which is naturally rich in regenerative factors such as stem cells, macro fat and ultrapure nano fat,’ she explains. ‘Macro fat is used to replenish volume while nano FAT fat is “finer” and used for subdermal or BANKING: intradermal injections to regenerate the WHERE TO GO skin – usually in more delicate areas to Uvence, help with fine lines that appear closer from £7,500. to the surface.’ uvence.co In the world of aesthetic medicine, Futureproof many procedures target fat reduction, so You treatment, why inject the thing so many are trying from £10,000. to lose? ‘Fat is made up of hundreds efmedispa.com of types of cells but the good stuff lies Fat injections, in the adipose-derived mesenchymal POA. epilium.co.uk stem cells which can harness the real

potential of facial rejuvenation,’ says Dr Olivier. ‘Besides the regenerative and self-renewing properties of the mesenchymal adipose stem cells, our “Super Enriched Tissue” is made up of haematopoietic stem cells that develop into blood cells that have regenerative properties; progenitor cells which create certain cell types; fibroblasts which secrete collagen proteins needed for skin elasticity and stretchiness; lymphocytes (white blood cells) that focus on immunity; vascular endothelial cells that act as a communicator between cells and macrophages that are highly specialised in the removal of dying or dead cells and cellular debris thus encouraging the natural exfoliation process. The main message being that fat has the power to help our skin to repair itself without the need for external substances.’ Proof that fat really is a good thing. The technical ability to extract and purify the potent stem cells from our fat stores has been available for some time, yet it’s the intricate freezing process that has finally allowed for the fat banking process to transition from testing to treatment room. Dr Hayot, medical director at Epilium & Skin clinic, learnt about the revolutionary technique 20 years ago but only added it to his treatment menu in 2019, and was one of the first to offer it in the UK. ‘A lot of laboratories have had difficulties storing and more importantly “unfreezing” the fat which can affect its quality and stability, leaving it more or less unusable,’ explains Fieldgrass. ‘We have teamed up with one of the only laboratories that has mastered the storage as well as the thawing with a proven viability rate after thawing of 75 per cent, which is high.’ Housed in cryogenic storage or a cryochamber, the fat cells can be stored for up to five years and used on demand at your request, although if kept correctly, scientists suggest fat deposits could be stored indefinitely. This crucial storing process explains the potentially hefty price tag. ‘Not only is a patient paying for the procedure but the entire process, including liposuction, fat extraction, freezing and storing your fat cells, as well as five vials of your own super enriched tissue to be injected at your discretion,’ justifies Dr Olivier. Yet, exceptional results come courtesy of a doctor that has the specialist understanding of such a cutting- edge procedure. ‘Any surgeon can extract fat from the body and inject it back into the face, but if it’s not refined and purified to a high standard, you could end up with a face that puffs up like a soufflé.’ Another big draw of this next generation treatment is that results are geared towards optimising the patient’s own repairing processes and is completely tailored to each individual. Whether you wish to replace lost volume in areas that have started to sag or to subtly plump fine lines, injecting fat cells is a subtle process that’s more about age management than age reversal, using your own cells to regenerate from within. As for how quickly you see results, it won’t be as instant as toxins or fillers as the skin needs time for collagen production to become activated. However, unlike ‘anti-ageing’ treatments in which results begin to fade with time, by stimulating your skin to essentially act younger by dishing out more collagen, those cells will keep regenerating long after the treatment giving you glowing, healthy looking skin for up to a year. Will fat banking take over from fillers as the beauty treatment of choice? Only time will tell, but if you want to naturally prompt your skin to behave and look like its younger self well into your later years, then this could be the smartest and most natural form of age management. * Data from Uvence research Feb 22 

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PROMOTION

HOME COUNTIES HAVEN Led by Dr Selena Langdon, Berkshire Aesthetics provides a highly personal and consultative approach to aesthetics

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erkshire Aesthetics has truly established itself as a haven for those seeking the best possible treatments in a patient-focused clinic. From its purpose-built site on the edge of Pinkney’s Green, an ever-growing team of experts deliver cutting-edge treatments in a discrete and relaxed environment. Founded by Dr Selena Langdon, Berkshire Aesthetics has a ‘patient first’ approach which means the patient is at the centre of everything they do. A thorough consultation ensures that a patient’s aesthetic concerns are understood, and treatments are aligned to their emotional needs and motivations. The focus is very much on ensuring the best therapies are offered, which increasingly means combination treatments including medical-grade skincare to ensure the skin is well prepared for a myriad of treatments on offer. With a complex choice of treatments available, it is very important that patients are given as much information as possible and an opportunity to ask questions without pressure, commitment, or judgement. Supporting Dr Langdon are a team of highly skilled aesthetic practitioners as well as Dr Paris Acharya, who is dual qualified in both medicine and dentistry. Dr Paris brings expert knowledge with a patient-centric approach that is perfectly aligned with the culture of Berkshire Aesthetics. Her talents are numerous, and she provides injectable treatments alongside PDO and APTOS threads as well as bioidentical hormone therapy. Both Dr Langdon and Dr Paris work closely to ensure seamless care in the clinic,

Dr Selena Langdon (left) with Dr Paris Acharya

while supporting aspiring aesthetic doctors through their recently launched mentorship programme called Aesthetication. Consistently rated as one of the best CoolSculpting clinics in the UK, Dr Langdon has built an international reputation as an expert in the delivery of the treatment with Dr Langdon’s commitment to her patients, and the exceptional treatment outcomes she achieves, has seen her profile grow, not only with patients, but also with many of the world’s leading aesthetic companies. As a doctor who is passionate about raising professional stand her proprietary

Time is spent consulting with patients to understand their aesthetic concerns, as well as their emotional needs and motivations approach called the CoolCodes®. As a CoolSculpting Key Opinion Leader and UK Expert Panel Lead, she supports CoolSculpting clinics across the UK whilst also being one of the first practitioners to offer CoolSculpting Elite which launched in March 2021. Dr Langdon’s commitment to her patients, and the exceptional treatment outcomes she achieves, has seen her

profile grow, not only with patients, but also with many of the world’s leading aesthetic companies. As a doctor who is passionate about raising professional standards her enthusiasm for her work has meant a growing practice which serves the needs of patients not only in the Home Counties, but many regular international patients who take advantage of Berkshire Aesthetics’ proximity to Heathrow and world class dining and accommodation options. Berkshire Aesthetics is an exceptional clinic in a discreet rural location. The highly experienced front of house and practitioner teams support Dr Langdon in her steadfast belief that aesthetic treatments should be delivered responsibly and with the utmost care for the patient and their physical and emotional wellbeing.

Berkshire Aesthetics, Furze Platt Road, Maidenhead SL6 6PR. Please call 01628 202028 or visit berkshireaesthetics.com @berkshire_aesthetics @BerkshireAesthetics

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RHINOPLASTY RE-DEFINED Rhinoplasty London is a centre of excellence for nose reshaping

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ome aesthetic procedures are intrinsically subtle, others have the power to dramatically transform a face. This could not be truer than of nose jobs, where a one-size-fits-all approach could spell disaster. What you want to seek out as a rhinoplasty patient is a highly specialised surgeon with an almost obsessive eye for facial harmony, and the vision to refine established techniques and develop ground-breaking new ones in order to achieve entirely bespoke and natural results. Charles East and Lydia Badia are a team of such surgeons, specialising in pioneering rhinoplasty techniques that have revolutionised the field. So what exactly do these advanced procedures entail?

Diamond Rhinoplasty uses fine ultrasonic tips to remodel or move your nasal bones, creating symmetric, bump-free, smooth bridges while preserving the soft tissues and without breaking or shattering the bones. East was involved in the development of this technique a decade ago, and it is now known as the Piezo ultrasonic technique, which offers the major benefit of less bruising and faster healing times.

PRESERVATION INNOVATION But it’s Preservation Rhinoplasty that’s at the true cutting edge of East and Badia’s surgical innovation. ‘The method is so much more than just a series of surgical techniques. It is

Lydia Badia and Charles East are pioneering rhinoplasty experts

fundamental to our “less is more” approach that guarantees the most natural and bespoke outcomes,’ they say. ‘It’s truly a revolution,’ adds East, who is the President-Elect of the Rhinoplasty Society of Europe. ‘Five years ago, I couldn’t have achieved these results.’ Total Preservation Rhinoplasty eliminates the dorsal ‘bump’ not by breaking or filing it, but by changing the structures underneath. A small strip running from the septum to underneath the hump is removed, resulting in the protrusion ‘simply dropping down,’ says East. ‘You end up with the same nose, but smaller, fitting seamlessly within the framework of a patient’s features.’ Not only is the dorsum preserved, but so are the skin sleeve, ligaments and nasal cartilages, eliminating the need for reconstruction or multiple grafts. Post-operative risks and recovery time, therefore, are significantly reduced. Unsurprisingly, ’Sixty to 70 per cent of our patients now have this kind of surgery, alone or in hybrid with a structural support or repair procedure,’ says East. ‘We’re proud to have pioneered an approach that maintains the integrity of the nose, simplifies any revisions, and delivers perhaps the most ideal and natural surgical results.’ rhinoplasty_london; rhinoplastylondon.co.uk

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DIAMOND STANDARD

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The

SMILE HIGH CLUB Aesthetic smile tweakments are now a valid, if not better, alternative to facial procedures for a natural-looking youth boost, says Annabel Jones May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 125

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STRAIGHTENING AND WHITENING The entryway smile tweakment is Invisalign, clear, made-to-measure, impermanent moulds that move and straighten teeth without the need for fixed braces, making them popular with those who’ve passed the socially acceptable age to don a pair of train tracks. ‘Patients are prioritising their health and self-care for the first time and having cosmetic dentistry to feel better about themselves,’ says orthodontist Dr Emma Laing, who prescribes a new whitening pen for use with Invisalign’s clear aligners to ‘freshen up’ fading teeth. ‘Traditional peroxide gels can be messy and cause sensitivity; this has a nail polishtype applicator brush that’s easy to apply, perfect for those looking for a quick, hyper natural effect.’

COMPOSITE BONDING The appeal of such mini teeth treatments, says cosmetic dentist and facial aesthetic practitioner Dr Krystyna Wilczynski, is that they are non-invasive and low

VENEERS: THE NEW FRONTIER While bonding can chip and stain over time, depending on your bite and whether you grind your teeth, porcelain veneers are still considered the gold standard and can last 15 years or more without staining. Yet, as with all tweakments, there is a veritable difference from one veneer technician to the next. Eskander is one of the few cosmetic dentists who works closely with one hand-picked ceramist, Simon Caxton at Simplee Dental Ceramics, who crafts his veneers in close collaboration

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‘F

ive years ago no one was interested in cosmetic dentistry. Teeth were seen as a health concern, not a way to look better or younger,’ says Dr Rhona Eskander. Rhona and I are on a first name basis. She has been my ‘smile architect’ ever since I came to her with a gummy smile and yellowing, cracked teeth four years ago, and I trust her like I do my therapist. I’m not being melodramatic. Ask anyone who’s undertaken a successful smile makeover and they’ll tell you that the internal transformation is as staggering as the external one, especially if wonky teeth have plagued you since childhood. Afterall, your smile, and how much you flex it, is an indicator of happiness. ‘The motion dictates the emotion,’ says Dr Michael Prager when referring to the negative effects that frowning can have on our emotional wellbeing. On the contrary, a wide inviting smile breaks barriers in an instant. ‘It’s the universal language,’ says Eskander. And of course, a full mouth of gleaming white teeth is the surest indicator of youth and vitality there is. Wrinkles disappear into the background, skin appears brighter and eyes whiter.

maintenance, which when combined with subtle facial treatments like Profhilo and alternative skin boosters creates the harmony that’s so often lacking in big smile makeovers. ‘Not everyone has the need or budget for veneers, but you can still make a lasting impact with a few small tweaks,’ she insists. Having trained as a dentist, Wilczynski studied aesthetic medicine in New York alongside leading plastic surgeons, giving her a big picture edge. While it’s common for dentists to offer Botox these days, Wilczynski practises both disciplines at an advanced level. ‘When I assess someone’s smile, I’m not solely focusing on their teeth, I’m assessing their face as a whole,’ she explains, ‘achieving a natural look is about subtly improving skin, teeth and facial contours in synergy, not in isolation.’ Wilczynski’s attention to detail results in imperceptible design tweaks to correct not only crooked teeth but the cant (curve) of the top teeth to the width of the smile, even allowing for space for composite bonding, a non-invasive, non-permanent alternative to veneers. ‘I often design a client’s Invisalign course to work alongside bonding to create a more seamless fit,’ says Krystyna, alluding to the sometimes unnatural look that bonding can give if fixed in a rote way. ‘I apply the bonding tooth by tooth freehand for a bespoke effect.’ For the uninitiated, composite bonding is colloquially referred to as ‘Shellac for teeth’ and can be a game changer for anyone whose teeth are a little worse for wear. ‘Teeth age just as our skin does; over time the enamel stains and erodes resulting in cracks, chips and yellowing, which can be incredibly confidence draining,’ says Dr Eskander, whose own ‘Chelsea Look’ includes aligning, whitening and bonding as part of one treatment package.

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From whitening to veneers, don’t let your imperfect teeth hold you back

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gums with a gum graft, and has been treating pigmentation with a hightech laser that gently resurfaces the top layer with no downtime. ‘Pigmentation on gums is a common concern with patients of AfroCaribbean and Asian heritage. The Waterlase laser helps to restore an even pink colour,’ he says.

AT-HOME CARE

with the client and Eskander to create the most lifelike veneers with the least amount of destruction to the underlying teeth. ‘We always aim for minimally invasive veneers. Filing tooth enamel down to tiny fangs puts the patient’s health at risk. The goal is to retain as much natural tooth as possible, which requires a high level of skill says Eskander, whose ultrathin veneers incorporate discerning details such as varying degrees of tone and translucency with realistic contours that reflect the light. And, when it comes to hue, whiter isn’t always better. ‘Blinding white TicTac teeth can actually highlight maturing skin; the most flattering shade is one that matches the whites of your eyes,’ she recommends.

GUM TWEAKMENTS ‘The position of the gums is integral to a proportionate smile; they are the frame to the teeth and can often hold the key to unlocking symmetry and harmony,’ insists Eskander who works alongside renowned periodontist, Dr Mitul Shah. The obvious case for a gum surgeon like Shah is crown lengthening to correct a gummy smile, which can be performed with a laser or minor surgery depending on the case. Artfully, Shah designs the ideal gum position digitally to replicate the end result to the millimetre, before you’ve even committed. On the flipside, Shah can surgically restore receding

At home, Dr Emma Laing suggests investing in a high-tech electric toothbrush such as Oral B’s iO9 Black Onyx Electric Toothbrush (£250, oralb.co.uk) to keep teeth whiter for longer, and avoid harsh toothpastes that erode teeth’s natural enamel – the shiny, protective coat that keeps them looking bright and glossy. Instead use a pro-enamel paste such as Pärla Pro Toothpaste Tabs (£8 per month, parlatoothpastetabs.com), or Regenerate Enamel Science Advanced Toothpaste (£6.67, boots.com). And, alas, floss twice a day – or else. ‘Interdental brushing with a TePe brush between teeth along with flossing is the smartest way to keep your teeth healthy and stain-free,’ stresses Laing. As for my own smile makeover, on a cost per wear basis I consider the investment as solid as the Chanel 2.55 handbag. After all, good teeth will never go out of fashion. 

PORCELAIN VENEERS Dr Rhona Eskander, Chelsea Dental Clinic (chelseadentalclinic.co.uk, @drrhonaeskander). ORTHODONTICS Dr Emma Laing (emmalaing.com, @dremmalaing). WHITENING Dr Richard Marques (doctorrichardlondon.com). FACIAL & DENTAL Dr Krystyna (drkrystyna.com, @drkrystyna). GUMS & IMPLANTS Dr Mitul Shah, Chelsea Dental Clinic (chelseadentalclinic.co.uk).

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STANDOUT STARS FOR...

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P R O M OT I O N

THE GLOW DOCTOR

Dr Yusra’s dental and maxillofacial surgical background ensures a subtle, artistic result for all her clients

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ne of the few practices in the country that combines psychological wellness with aesthetics, Dr Yusra Al-Mukhtar’s flagship award-winning clinic in Liverpool sees patients travelling from all over the world for aesthetic tweakments using her medical knowledge, artistic eye and focus on facial harmonisation. ‘I used to paint, but now I sculpt faces and bodies,’ she says. And the results are outstanding. Originally trained as a dental surgeon, Dr Yusra is a member of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine and the Royal College of Surgeons. She was listed as one of Tatler’s Top 40 Doctors and top for nonsurgical rhinoplasty, for which she received a prize at the Aesthetic Awards 2022. She is also the author of Beautified Britain: The Skin Report. With two satellite aesthetic clinics in London, in Harrow on the Hill and Harley Street, it’s not uncommon for patients to fly in from the US and Australia for her renowned ten minute ‘liquid nose job’ using injectable soft tissue fillers for instant results that are comparable to going under the knife – without the cost, risk or downtime of surgery. Her ALR (Align, Lift, Refine) technique aligns bumps on the nose, lifts and defines the tip and refines asymmetries using filler which lasts up to 18-24 months. ‘This treatment can be liberating and truly life-changing,’ says Dr Yusra, who now teaches masterclasses on her sought-after technique. ‘These are empowering transformations. We aren’t just straightening a nose, we are giving people back their confidence and self esteem. It is truly magical to be a part of that.’ Her clinic is also home to the latest technology including Secret PRO by Cutera, a dermal remodelling machine targeting sun-damaged skin, acne scarring and stretch marks, and the new Profhilo Body for rehydration and glow. There’s also a wide range of treatments on offer, from nonsurgical fat reduction using Coolsculpting, to Endolift laser face lifts. Dr Yusra’s motto for every client is ‘look good, not fake’, so you’ll come out a fresher version of yourself, without anyone guessing you’ve had anything done.

Dr Yusra’s expert face and body transformation techniques have clients flying in from all over the world

+44 (0)333 224 4666; dryusra.com

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PROMOTION

PERFECT HARMONY

London’s White & Co practice offers complete care, from dentistry to facial nonsurgical treatments, under one chic roof

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or some, tweakments are as important as going for a dental check-up. So why not create one luxury destination that caters for both dental and facial aesthetics? This is precisely what White & Co, a clinic housed within London’s landmark Battersea Power Station, has made its signature. ‘We want to change people’s perception of dentistry,’ says founder Anisha Patel. ‘To deliver style, sophistication and substance from the moment a patient steps through our doors.’ It’s a timely move given the cosmetic dentistry market is set to be worth over £32 billion* by 2026, while in the UK non-surgical treatments such as Botox and dermal fillers account for nine out of 10 procedures.** Alongside the traditional menu of crowns, teeth whitening and amalgamfree fillings that you’d expect to find at a dentist’s practice, there is also a vast range of cosmetic dentistry options including implants, the invisible aligning treatment, Invisalign, and even gum line contouring, which involves using laser to reduce a gummy smile. Alongside whiter, brighter teeth, often considered key to a youthful face, White & Co also

Dr Izabella Romanowska

Dr Nikki Izadi

offers Botox and dermal fillers for a complete youth boost. To achieve a harmonious overall look, you can choose to add volume to plump up your lips, smooth vertical lip lines and even soften frown lines. Either way, White & Co has you covered, which makes perfect sense as dentists are known to be excellent injectors and highly skilled in the anatomy of the face. One such cosmetic dentist is Dr Izabella Romanowska. Since graduating from the Medical University of Lodz, Poland, she has become known for her holistic approach to naturally enhanced teeth and subtle tweakments that make the face look fresher and more youthful. Likewise, Dr Nikki Izadi’s client book is full to bursting. Having qualified as a dentist from King’s College London in 2007, she undertook postgraduate courses in facial aesthetics, as well as studying Aesthetic Medicine Speciality Training to diploma level at the Harley Academy. Dr Nikki’s clinical background and extensive injectable experience is matched by her artistic eye and meticulous attention to detail within all of her treatments. For more information visit, whiteandcodental.co.uk. As part of its package, White & Co is offering free video consultations for both new and current patients, enabling them to discuss their concerns from the comfort of their own home

*h.globenewswire.com/news-release/2019/07/29/1892970/0/en/Cosmetic-Dentistry-Market-To-Reach-USD-32-73-Billion-By-2026-Reports-And-Data.html; **bdnj.co.uk/2020/02/18/face-the-demand/#_edn1

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I’ll

HAVE WHAT they’re

HAVING Our team of dedicated beauty experts put 15 non-surgical treatments to the test… and the verdicts are in

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AESTHETIC GUIDE recommended to undertake three sessions at three-week intervals three times a year. Skin has an instant glow after one treatment. After the full course skin takes on a natural glow, making you appear rested and healthy looking. Book it: From £300 for 2ml; a course of three costs £800 at Blush + Blow. 020 7736 0430; blushandblowlondon.com

3

SLIMYONIK AIR BODYSTYLER BEST FOR: A SERIOUS CIRCULATION BOOST

BEST FOR: MELTING AWAY THOSE HARD-TO-SHIFT AREAS OF FLAB AROUND THE UPPER ARMS, TUMMY AND THIGHS WHILE MINIMISING STRETCH MARKS

What happens: A companion treatment to FaceTite (see number 4), BodyTite is an advanced, permanent method of removing fat and tightening the skin simultaneously, dramatically improving the contours of the body in a non-invasive way. It works by using radio frequency energy to heat up and melt away fatty tissue which in turn contracts and tightens the skin above. Prepare to lie back for approximately two hours depending on the area you’re having treated as the technician inserts a small cannula under the skin at the precise depth to burn off the fat just under the skin. Ouch factor: Local anaesthesia makes it a painless experience with very little discomfort afterwards. Downtime: A slight discomfort is felt afterwards when the anaesthesia wears off. Results: After a month to six weeks results begin to show, particularly on the tummy area which appears more contoured for a year or more. Book it: From £6,500 per body part per session, with Dr Judy Todd at Taktouk Clinic. drwassimtaktouk.com

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INJECTABLE VITAMIN FACIAL BEST FOR: GLOWING, NATURALLY PLUMP SKIN

What happens: Filling the gap between superficial mesotherapy and facial fillers, injectable skin booster facials promote cell regeneration and tissue restructuring to help induce a youthful glow. Used to combat dryness and skin fatigue, a combination of hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, amino acids, minerals and vitamins are injected into the skin, exactly where it’s needed to begin the rejuvenation process. First, a consultation is required to assess medical history and patient suitability. Dr Krystyna applies a numbing cream to the targeted areas where micro injections (0.1ml per injection) are then inserted underneath the skin followed with a post procedure cream which contains arnica, aloe vera and antiseptic. Ouch factor: You’ll feel very little, if any, discomfort while Dr Krystyna’s bedside manner helps to make you feel at ease. Downtime: No exercise for 24 hours is recommended and it’s best to avoid makeup for four to six hours afterwards. Bruising cream can be applied if necessary. Results: For optimum results, it is

4

FACETITE BEST FOR: DOUBLE CHINS, JOWLS AND NECK LAXITY

What happens: The procedure takes about an hour and a half. Before anything, an oral antibiotic is given followed by local anaesthetic. This part is administered slowly to make sure everything is fully numb at the site you’re having treated. After confirming you can’t feel a thing, small punctures are made on either side of the face and under the chin. The FaceTite handpiece, a small device that can be inserted easily into the skin, is introduced and the machine is activated. Prepare for a popping and crackling sound which indicates adequate heating of subcutaneous tissues (apparently the more popping the better). Once the correct amount of energy

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BODYTITE

What happens: After popping on some disposable trouser shorts, prepare to lie down on the treatment bed and climb into what can only be described as oversized heavy trousers which are then zipped up on both sides making you feel nice and snug. When the machine is turned on, you can feel the trousers tightening and then loosening as the technology senses where you have blockages for a tailored pressure therapy massage that activates your entire lymph system to boost metabolism and increase blood flow. The pressure creates a detox process that encourages waste and fat deposits to be broken down and eliminated. A nasal cannula is given during the treatment to boost oxygen intake. Ouch factor: Zero, the sensation is entirely relaxing. Downtime: None, you can go about your day feeling light as air. Rating: A brilliant one for boosting circulation and to feel more toned. Book it: From £95, with Debbie Thomas at D Thomas Clinic. 020 7118 9000; dthomas.com

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Swimsuit, Melissa Odabash. Juste un Clou necklace, Cartier

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AESTHETIC GUIDE German numbing cream, Botox, filler and even the challenging Morpheus8 is less painful than normal. A three as opposed to a seven on the pain threshold. Downtime: Very little – possibly tiny bruising or small swelling from the filler. Best results from the filler in five days and the Botox in 14 days. Rating: Fantastic natural results and perfect for filler-phobes, you’ll begin to see plumping results within five days whereas Botox is apparent after two weeks. Book it: From £900. 020 7589 6309; drdavidjack.com

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NYDG OXYGENESIS BEST FOR SENSITIVE, DRY SKIN

5

TASTEFUL TWEAKS BEST FOR: DISCREET ANTI-AGEING SUPPORT

What happens: Delightful Dr David Jack is immediately reassuring as he evaluates your face. His whole philosophy is lessis-more, as he believes that too much ‘work’ is ageing. He recommends Botox in micro doses which allow movement in the face rather than freezing muscles. Over time, muscle dynamics change and he seeks to redress the natural balance of the muscles as opposed to paralysing muscles and artificially sculpting cheekbones and lips with filler. For a more natural look, tiny drops of Botox are administered around the hairline and in the crow’s feet area to curb tired, sagging eyes. He then adds small microdroplets of filler in jaw creases, the corner of the mouth and in the centre of the cheeks, though this varies from patient to patient. Two weeks later, you return for biostim ulators such as Profhilo, a hyaluronic skin refresher, in combination with Morpheus8 (radiofrequency with microneedling for tightening the lower face). And if necessary, following the first session of minimal filler, you may require a top up. Ouch factor: Thanks to Dr Jack’s special

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THERMAGE FLX BEST FOR: LONG-TERM EYE AND FACE FIRMING

What happens: This non-invasive radiofrequency therapy smooths, tightens and contours skin around the eyes without needles in one single treatment. While Thermage has been around for nearly 20 years, the device is now in its fourth generation. Dr Kavouni explains: ‘It works like a microwave,’ heating the deep layers of the skin from the

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is delivered, the second side is treated. Each side of the face takes about five minutes. Finally, liposuction is carried out to define the jawline, concentrating on the jowl areas. Small plasters are applied to the puncture sites and no stitches are needed. A face support (usually a compression garment) is worn from that point for a few days to help reduce swelling. A week’s worth of antibiotics are given to prevent a secondary infection. Ouch factor: Thanks to the anaesthetic, only a slight tugging sensation occurs. In the days after you can feel soreness on the neck area but this is easily managed with paracetamol. Downtime: Expect to be swollen for at least a week. This is caused partly by the local anaesthetic. The face and neck will feel tender for the first week and some report tenderness up to a month following treatment, yet it is common to feel numb in the areas treated, especially the jowls which can take a couple of months or more to resume normal sensation completely. Results: Very impressive. For those wanting to abolish a double chin or treat skin laxity in the lower jaw area, this is as close to a lower facelift as you can get yet much less invasive and without general anaesthetic. Book it: From £2,500 for a course of 10 at Taktouk Clinic. 020 7235 7198; drwassimtaktouk.com

What happens: Dr Costas believes in medical grade facials that bypass the surface of the skin, so there is nothing pampering about this treatment. Firstly, manual lymph drainage via suction cupping loosens muscles and de-puffs the face. Then skin is thoroughly cleansed with machines that feel like they are removing the top layers of the dermis. The heavy hitter here is the American laser which penetrates 2mm below the skin’s surface to stimulate collagen and cellular regeneration that has an immediate tightening effect. Next, high pressure hyperbaric oxygen delivers hyaluronic acid and a powerful cocktail of vitamins, botanical peptides and topical antioxidants are applied. The aim is to soften the folds in the skin to improve light reflection. Ouch factor: While the laser feels hot, it never gets uncomfortable. The weird burning smell makes it more disconcerting than uncomfortable. Downtime: None. Results are immediate and impressive. Results: Think glowing and well rested. Good value for money, skin is instantly tight and brighter. Book it: £160, at Harrods Wellness Clinic. 020 7225 5678; drcostaspapageorgiou.com

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P R O M OT I O N Give your skin a boost at Regents Park Aesthetics

HOLY GLOW Experience the transformational effects of Profound Radiofrequency at the Regents Park Aesthetics clinic

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ravity’s pull, coupled with a decline in collagen production can lead to less pronounced facial contours. While fillers have their place for restoring lost volume, there is a smart hightech option for lifting skin and turnaround a lackluster complexion. Individually, microneedling and radiofrequency help to boost fresh collagen, firm slack skin and soften the look of lines with minimal downtime. Profound Radiofrequency combines both of these technologies in one powerful device. By acting on the lower third of the face, this breakthrough treatment is effective at lifting sunken cheeks and jowls and improving the look of nose-to-mouth lines. You can now experience Profound Radiofrequency in the plush surroundings of Regents Park Aesthetics on London’s Wimpole Street. During the treatment, local anaesthetic injections numb the area before tiny needles are inserted into the skin to deliver the radiofrequency. Both the surface and underlying skin heat up, causing collagen fibres to contract causing the skin to feel instantly tighter. Used in tandem, radiofrequency and microneedling causes small, controlled injuries in the skin that stimulate your body’s own wound-healing response prompting the skin to produce extra

collagen and elastin for long-term firmness. Crucially, Profound Radiofrequency is the first and only radiofrequency microneedling device with FDA clearance for use on the face, neck and body. It also monitors the skin’s temperature in real time for greater precision and safety. But most impressive of all, you only need a single 90-minute treatment to stimulate the production of three key components of youthful skin. Profound Radiofrequency is proven to double collagen levels, create five times more elastin and increase hyaluronic acid, a hydrating molecule that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. When used on the body, the device claims to reduce cellulite by up to 90 per cent. If that’s not appealing enough, in clinical trials, Profound Radiofrequency was found to deliver results that are comparable to a third of a surgical facelift. Optimal results appear after three months and last for up to five years. Note: after treatment, you can resume normal activities but be aware that you may experience some redness, swelling and bruising, which can persist for seven to 10 days. Profound Radiofrequency starts from £1,500. For more information or to book a consultation, visit regentsparkaesthetics.co.uk

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

inside out in a targeted way causing collagen in the skin to shrink and tighten. While results are instant, skin continues to magically remould itself over the coming months. Treating the area around the eyes takes around 20 minutes and promises an uplifted and smoother appearance with less wrinkles that begin to develop around four to six weeks, and last for up to a year, sometimes two. Thermage is also popular for use on the jowls, abdomen, sagging knees and has even been approved for use on cellulite. Ouch factor: Expect hot, sharp but short twinges – nothing you can’t bear. Downtime: Depending on the sensitivity of your skin, expect some retained heat and redness, like you’ve spent a tad too much time in the sun. By the next day this will usually subside. Results: You’ll appear brighter and tighter around the eyes – like you’ve slept for the first time in years. Book it: From £1,800. 020 7486 9040; ionkavounilondon.com

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NUCLEOFILL BEST FOR: DARK CIRCLES AND

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UNDER-EYE SKIN REJUVENATION

What happens: The new injectable on the block, Nucleofill is a revelation for those who are wary of having traditional filler on the sensitive tear trough area which can exaggerate undereye puffiness with a less experienced practitioner. For visible yet natural results this innovative, scientifically proven technique uses polynucleotides (exactly the same as those found in your DNA) to stimulate all layers of the skin, increasing both the production of collagen and elastin – imagine less laxity, fewer fine lines and long-term hydration. Allow at least half an hour for numbing cream to provide protection, then one small needle is used to dispense the solution which is nudged with a cannula to cover the whole under eye area in a process that takes around 20 minutes. Two treatments are recommended with no longer than a four-week gap. Ouch factor: You will feel a temporary bee sting sensation just above the apple of your cheek which lasts less than ten minutes per side. But just when it seems unbearable, it’s all over. Downtime: A little redness and potentially the tiniest bit of swelling (the kind only you would notice) is normal and the risk of bruising is minimal. Results: You’ll notice visibly firmer under eyes and a brighter skin texture. True results take several weeks as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid are stimulated within the skin. Book it: £550 per vial, with Dr Sophie Shotter. 020 8914 7987; drsophieshotter.com

9

LAM SKIN TRAINING – CONTOUR & CONDITIONING BEST FOR: RECLAIMING YOUR CONTOURS

What happens: If your cheekbones look more dull plastic than cut glass or your former facial plumpness is somewhat deflated, let master skin strategist Dr Uliana Gout work her artistry. Don’t expect Skin Training to be a quick fix though, but rather a journey along which skin will be rebooted and regenerated with a treatment plan (four sessions over a year) that go beyond antiageing and into bio-stimulation. First, Dr Gout will map your face and do drawings to identify where skin might be beginning to weaken (often around the jawline and the cheek), before injecting a bespoke concoction of hyaluronic acid, peptides, aminos, vitamins and minerals directly into different layers of your notoriously lazy skin. Your cells will then be provoked to start behaving like they’re prepubescent

adolescents once more, ramping up the collagen and elastin production to pump and smooth the skin. It’s a huge leap forward in natural regeneration (your cells are doing all the work here), leaving false-looking filler far behind. Ouch factor: Yes, because sharp needles in the skin do hurt, but a bit of numbing cream beforehand will do wonders. Your face will also look super flushed (although Dr Gout always uses a high intensity LED mask to calm skin afterwards). Downtime: You’ll want to go home straight away and there may be a little bit of dryness and tightness for the next few days, but you’ll be perfectly presentable the day after the treatment. Results: Two treatments in and your cheekbones will reflect the light in shop windows again. Watch the comments on how well your skin is looking start flooding in. Book it: Four treatments recommended three months apart, £4,500; (single treatment), £1,200. 020 7637 5999; london-aesthetic-medicine.com

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AESTHETIC GUIDE patients with more than an inch to pinch, up to a BMI of 40, meaning it could be a serious adjunct for treating those with obesity. Ouch factor: It might sound too good to be true, but you won’t feel a thing. In fact, it’s so relaxing you may even drop off. Downtime: No sticky gels to wipe off, no redness, no painful massage, no bruising. You’ll literally feel nothing. Even so, you’ll need to up your water intake to flush out those fat cells, eat a healthy balanced diet and fit in some light exercise (walking will do) to maximise the effects. Results: Although each treatment only takes around 30 minutes, it’ll take about 10 sessions twice a week to reap the full benefits. Book it: £2,997 for a course of 10 with Dr Natalie Geary at Light Touch Clinic. 01932 849 552, lighttouchclinic.co.uk; or Dr Munir Somji at Dr Medispa. 020 8418 0326; drmedispa.com

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PROFHILO FOR BODY BEST FOR: PLUMPING AND HYDRATING PRUNEY/CREPEY SKIN

What happens: A Profhilo body treatment consists of tiny injections on an area of the body, usually under arms or abdomen where skin is in need of TLC. Think an elastic band that doesn’t ping back into shape like it once did – Profhilo adds hydration, which in turn makes an area tighter and more youthful. A white paper template with teeny circles is put over the area to be treated, then using a crayon the doctor marks the areas so injections are accurately spaced. It feels like tiny scratches as the Profhilo is needled into the skin in small amounts. In the short term it leaves a raised bump which goes down after 12 hours and occasionally a little bruising. You leave with patches to soothe and moisturise in the treated areas and body cream for in-between treatments. Ouch factor: It feels like a scratch. A set of headphones and a good podcast will take your mind off it. Downtime: None, that’s the joy. You can train as usual the next day if that’s your thing. Leave one month in between treatments for best results.

Results: Remarkably effective. Two weeks after, wrinkles go into hiding and skin texture is significantly smoother. Book it: £500 per treatment. 020 3695 5400; thelovelyclinic.co.uk

11

ERCHONIA EMERALD LASER BEST FOR: FAT LOSS

What happens: This innovative, hi-tech, non-surgical fat emulsifying treatment has got the aesthetic world all lit up. Said to be the ‘jewel in the crown’ of fat reduction technology, its makers say it can reduce an average of six inches off you after 12 30-minute treatments, all while making you feel great due to an increase in metabolic energy. A vibrant green-hued laser emits rotating beams over your body, perforating stubborn fat cells and emptying the fatty fluid so the fat cells shrink. It can be used to generally debulk weighty middles or all 10 beams can be focused on specific areas such as love handles. What’s more, it’s the only technology granted FDA clearance for overall body circumference reduction on

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BEST FOR: MUSCLE LIFTING AND SKIN TIGHTENING ON NECK, FACE AND BROWS

What happens: No need to remove makeup, jewellery, or even your top, the Ultraformer III long-pulse ultrasound technology reaches a much deeper muscular level than standard HIFU (high intensity frequency ultrasound). The head attachment feels like a roller ball that moves over the skin in six target areas (left and right sides of neck, face and brows) that are worked on for four minutes each. You’ll feel a warm sensation and every now and then it’s quite intense, especially near the jawline. The deep and intense concentration of ultrasound energy causes trauma to the muscle layer, causing it to contract, or shrink, and then tighten and lift when it heals, while a more superficial energy pulse simultaneously stimulates collagen production to improve skin firmness. Ouch factor: A bit uncomfortable at certain points but the level of intensity can be cranked down if needed. An Ibuprofen beforehand will minimise discomfort. Downtime: None whatsoever. Nor is redness or swelling common. Results: For a slightly nervous patient who is not keen on injections, threading or going under the knife, this is a speedy, safe and effective lifting and tightening treatment. One session will deliver long-lasting results but, as the effect is accumulative, two to three are recommended per year. Book it: From £800 with Dr Sebagh. 020 7637 0548; drsebagh.com

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THE ULTRALIFT TM

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P R O M OT I O N The Cosmetic Skin Clinic has been at the forefront of new thinking about aesthetics for over 30 years

NEW THINKING

With a ‘less is more’ approach and a reputation for excellence, the team at The Cosmetic Skin Clinic take a 360-degree approach to face and body treatments

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Clinic founder Dr Tracy Mountford hand-picked the or 30 years, the multi-award-winning Cosmetic 14-strong team on account of their impressive skill Skin Clinic (CSC) has been a destination that set. Two such practitioners are Dr Joanna Christou encourages new ways of thinking and gold and Dr Johanna Ward. Dr Christou is a dual qualified standard treatments. Combining both a heritage dentist and medical aesthetic doctor with of aesthetic wisdom with a mantra of a special interest in facial musculature. It ‘minimal intervention for maximum gain’, no is her unique knowledge of the structure wonder it has become the go-to clinic for of the face combined with her mastery both non-surgical body transformation and of fillers for complex facial revisions, facial rejuvenation. In fact, The Cosmetic including non-surgical rhinoplasty Skin Clinic has not only been named the and weak chins (which take on a new UK’s No.1 clinic for Ultherapy for the eighth strength) while heavy jowls are as good consecutive year but also the leading as gone, that make her one of the best in CoolSculpting® clinic for more than 10 years. the business. In the field of injectables, the clinic Meanwhile, Dr Ward has many strings is renowned for its expertise in dermal to her bow as an award-winning cosmetic fillers and muscle relaxants. But it has Dr Joanna Christou doctor, GP and advanced cosmetic also become a trailblazer for combination injector who is highly skilled at volumising, treatments that work in synergy for smoothing and recontouring the face for results previously only thought possible a natural, airbrushed finish. She is a huge by going under the knife. The bespoke believer in the power of preventative Triple Layer Lift treatment, for example, medicine and takes a holistic approach may start with fillers to create structure to combining skin health and clinical but then also includes skin-tightening dermatology with nutrition. technologies Ultherapy and Morpheus8. Another popular treatment is the BBL To find out more, visit cosmeticskinclinic. Forever Young, a 15-minute skin revitalising com or call the London clinic on +44 treatment with no downtime that uses (0)203 319 3637 or the Buckinghamshire light-based energy to create fresh collagen Dr Johanna Ward clinic on +44 (0)1753 646660 stores for improved texture and glow.

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AESTHETIC GUIDE a subtle result, Dr Kolli has mastered a signature Botox technique that restores a youthful appearance by smoothing fine lines while respecting the anatomy of the face. Working in synergy with the facial muscles Kolli injects methodically and meticulously so as not to disturb the essential activity of the mimetic muscles – those which are responsible for facial expression. Ouch factor: The injections feel like tiny pricks no more painful than a scratch. Downtime: None. Results: The toxin takes at least seven days for the effects to take place. A month later and you’ll look like yourself only more rested and youthful. Book it: From £500 per treatment, at Dr Sebagh Clinic. 020 7637 0548; drsebagh.com

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PEELFHILO BEST FOR: BRIGHTENING AND RESTORING THE YOUTHFUL APPEARANCE OF AGEING SKIN

What happens: First Dr Divya applies a medicalgrade peel including a cocktail of potent antioxidants, skin brighteners and skin barrier boosters treating multiple skin indications such as pigmentation, congestion and active breakouts. Left to work its magic for 8-10 minutes, the peel releases the dead skin layer to transform a dull, lacklustre complexion. A hybrid treatment, this is complemented with Profhilo, an injectable hyaluronic acid that gives skin a blanket of hydration just beneath the surface, resulting in a dewy, plump appearance with a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. Ouch factor: No numbing cream is required as pain is minimal. The peel will feel tingly when on and Profhilo injections sting momentarily, but any discomfort is fleeting. Downtime: None. You can return to work directly afterwards.

Results: A noticeable improvement in radiance, firmness and elasticity can be seen 10-14 days following treatment. Expect softer, healthy looking skin like you’ve just been on vacation. Book it: Two sessions four weeks apart every eight months is recommended to maintain. £500 per treatment. divyaveluvolu.com

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BEST FOR: SOFTENING LINES

What happens: Not all Botox treatments are created equal. Over injecting can cause muscle atrophy and/or impart a tell-tale ‘frozen look’. Equally, flooding one area, such as the brow and forehead can unwittingly draw attention to the lower face which can cause asymmetry and make the jaw and neck line appear aged in comparison. To give her patients

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BOTOX

BEST FOR: SMOOTHING TIREDLOOKING UNDER EYES

What happens: A miniature amount of dermal filler is injected with a cannula under the eyes, beneath the muscle, to address fine lines and the shadowy area where there is a volume deficit (there are myriad reasons that can cause dark circles therefore filler isn’t always suitable). To retain a natural appearance, Dr Marwa’s technique uses micro droplets of dermal filler that delicately replaces lost volume. She reassesses the results at a follow up appointment two weeks apart that allows the hyaluronic acid solution to settle, at which point (if needed) she will add a drop more. Ouch factor: It’s less uncomfortable than having a blood test, seriously, though you will experience a strange sensation as the cannula delivers the filler close to the bone. Downtime: None. The eye area will begin to subtly transform over the next couple of weeks as moisture levels increase. Results: Dr Marwa’s less-is-more approach yields natural-looking results that will make you look like you’ve slept for a week – permanently. Dark circles are immediately minimised and grooves are softened though, crucially, not eliminated which is the secret to not looking ‘done’. The effects last anywhere from six months to three years depending on the patient. Book it: £650, Dr Marwa Ali at Harrods Wellness Clinic. harrods.com 

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TEAR TROUGH FILLER

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P R O M OT I O N Dr Ezra performs hundreds of aesthetic eyelid surgeries a year

WINDOWS TO THE SOUL

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Your eyes give everything away – which is why noted oculoplastic surgeon Dr Daniel Ezra places the utmost importance in them

ith more than 15 years’ experience, Dr Daniel Ezra qualified in microsurgical ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgery with a background training in plastic surgery, neurology and neurosurgery, before taking up his consultant post at the prestigious Moorfields Eye Hospital, where he is an Associate Professor and Chief of Oculoplastics. One of the most renowned and sought-after expert oculoplastic surgeons in the UK, he performs hundreds of aesthetic eyelid surgeries every year. We all know the eyes are the windows to the soul, but eyes and the surrounding skin can give everything away: whether that’s fatigue, stress, emotion or anger. In fact, droopy brows and upper eyelids, bags and hollows under our eyes can inadvertently lead others to presume we’re tired, sad or older than we are, which can negatively affect us both professionally and personally. It’s these misinterpretations that Dr Ezra fully understands and uses his finely honed surgical skills, along with his advanced understanding of the intricacies of the eye area, to correct. ‘I’ve always loved the enormous difference eye surgery can make to the shape of my patient’s faces,

their facial expressions and their general appearance of health,’ he explains. Blepharoplasty deals with the contours of the upper and lower eyelid and involves the removal of excess skin and muscle from these areas to either reduce or reposition the underlying fat to give a more refreshed look. Dr Ezra says. ‘When it comes to signs of ageing, it’s often your eyes that give you away.’ Highly specialised and less invasive nonsurgical procedures such as laser, growth factor treatments and specialised filler therapies are also offered as possibilities to rejuvenate the eye area, and are performed at the super sleek NEO Health Clinic in Harley Street where Dr Ezra is the Medical Director. Ezra’s skill is in assessing his patients and their desired outcome through a thorough consultation and examination. His ability lies in knowing which combination of subtle corrections to make to balance the shape of the eye and deliver life changing results. He and his team work tirelessly to provide clients with a first-rate treatment experience and exceptional customer service from start to finish. +44 (0)20 7127 8184; danielezra.co.uk

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P R O M OT I O N Alexandria and her team provide a warm, welcoming and safe experience

NATURAL BEAUTY

A safety-first, caring ethos makes CB Aesthetics a go-to for subtle results

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hoosing a cosmetic practitioner ought to be a careful vetting process. Aside from selecting medically trained experts with a portfolio of great results, you want to be sure they answer to the highest standards of clinical excellence, safety and care. That’s why the staff at CB Aesthetics, a multi award-winning medical cosmetic clinic in Bristol (with a brand new clinic at 10 Harley Street just opened), are exceptionally proud to be part of the only nurse-led clinic in the South West to hold Care Quality Commission registration. It’s an accolade that signals not only that you’re in the safest of hands, but also the most stringently ethical and caring ones. Founded in 2010 by clinical director, lead nurse and Harley Street cosmetic injectable trainer Alexandria Henderson, all the practitioners here are, like Alex, registered independent nurse-prescribers. With a background in primary care, they are renowned for their empathy and understanding, and for their in-depth informative and educational approach to achieving real results for their predominantly female clientele. Collectively dedicated to creating subtle but effective rejuvenation and natural enhancement, CB Aesthetics’ practitioners know the value of a

detailed and honest consultation before every procedure. There are no false promises or unethical hard-sell here. You are given the power to make deeply informed choices and benefit from your nurse’s vast experience and keen eye for natural beauty. It’s a recipe for a truly satisfactory treatment outcome that uplifts and thrills every time. Your choice of non-surgical cosmetic and laser treatments is comprehensive. Aside from all types of dermal fillers and anti-ageing injections, PDO thread lifts, skin tightening, nano-fractional skin resurfacing, peels, hair removal procedures, CoolSculpting and medical treatments are performed under strict clinical supervision. Evidence-based skincare consultations, treatment for medical and chronic skin conditions and hair loss treatments are available as well. On top of that, the clinic has developed such an exceptional reputation that it has grown into a training academy, working with prestigious cosmeceutical and medical aesthetic device companies such as 4T Medical, WOW Fusion and MATA. ‘Has she or hasn’t she?’ That is what Alexandria and her team want people to wonder after you’ve undergone treatment at their hands. Hands that are as skilled as they are caring. + 44 (0)1934 863294; ciaobellaaesthetics.co.uk

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

THE A-Z OF THE BEST AESTHETIC DOCTORS

Find an expert from our vetted list of sought-after cosmetic doctors who specialise in everything from smile tweaks to surgical enhancements

A-E Dr David Jack at Dr David Jack Clinic With his delicate touch and emphasis on natural beauty you’ll never look overdone. If you’re nervous about injectables, he’s your goto guy for subtle results. @drdavidjack; drdavidjackclinic.com

Dr Depti Kolli at Dr Sebagh Clinic A cosmetic dermatologist, Dr Kolli is a specialist in injectables and state-ofthe-art treatments such as personalised PRP (platelet rich plasma) and mesotherapy to enhance and rejuvenate the skin. @skindekoded; drsebagh.com

Dr Divya Veluvolu Dr Divya specialises in rejuvenation, stem cell and cosmetic dermatology. A rising star in her field, she combines the latest developments in beauty and medical science, taking a holistic approach to aesthetics. Her treatments can include injectables with state-of-the-art devices and specialist dietary advice for an inside approach. @drdivyalondon; divyaveluvolu.com

F-I Dr Frances Prenna Jones She is the fashion elite’s best kept secret, although you’d never know it as her results are that natural-looking. Her

Botox skills are to be envied, especially if you prefer a light-handed approach. Though she is known for her red light therapy to give skin an ever-fresh glow and is a fan of HIFU (high intensity frequency ultrasound) to give skin a subtle lift. @drfrancesprennajones; drfrancesprennajones.com

Dr Galyna at Dr Rita Rakus Clinic A whiz with the world’s leading high-tech machines, Dr Galyna is the beauty insider’s trusted body guru. From firming jowls to sculpting love handles and tightening down there, her expertise and warm bedside manner make her unique. @dr_galyna; ritarakus.co.uk

Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme at The Adonia Medical Clinic Her Instagram feed is a landing place for targeted skincare advice including the lowdown on the mostasked about ingredients, like retinol, to pregnancy skincare advice. As founder and medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic, she offers state of art treatments from PRP (platelet rich plasma) for hair loss to microneedling for skin rejuvenation and can’t-tell lip filler, as well as specific treatments for men. @dr_ifeoma_ejikeme; adoniamedicalclinic.co.uk

Dr Izabella Romanowska at White & Co Dental Known for her holistic approach to naturally enhanced teeth and subtle tweakments she can make the whole face look fresher

and more youthful with her combined approach. @whiteandcodental; whiteandcodental.co.uk

J-L

pigmentation, firm facial contours and tighten sagging jaw lines. If radiant, clear, firm skin is what you’re after then he is worth the visit. @drjoneydesouza; drjoneydesouza.com

Dr Joshua Van der Aa

Dr Joanna Christou at The Cosmetic Skin Clinic Being a dual qualified dentist and medical doctor has enabled Dr Christou to pursue a special interest in facial musculature when performing non-surgical procedures and creating the discrete, holistic results she is renowned for. @drjchristou; cosmeticskinclinic.com

Dr Johanna Ward at The Cosmetic Skin Clinic An awarding-winning cosmetic doctor, GP and expert in cosmetic laser, Dr Ward is a leading figure in the science of preventative medicine from both a clinical dermatology and nutrition standpoint. @drjohannaward; cosmeticskinclinic.com

Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh at Dr Sebagh Clinic A former surgeon, Dr Sebagh has mastered the art of nonsurgical face and neck lifting using cosmetic procedures to achieve natural looking results. One of his latest treatments, Lanluma Arm Rejuvenation, promises to address the most bingoey of wings. @drsebagh; drsebagh.com

Dr Joney De Souza A pioneer in new technologies, Dr De Souza delivers luminous skin quality through his layering of laser modalities to reduce

A campaigner for the natural look, Dr Joshua has honed his skills as an injector by travelling the globe to learn from the best in the field. Known for treating the eye area subtly and precisely he is a master at tricky tear trough filler and non-surgical eye lifts. @drjoshualondon; drjoshuavanderaa.co.uk

Dr Judy Todd at Taktouk Clinic Dr Todd is the expert beauty editors and celebrities trust for a non-surgical face lift. Renowned for transforming the neck and lower face, she’s a pro with high-tech machines from Morpheus8 to FaceTite. @dr_judy_todd; drwassimtaktouk.com

M-P Dr Marco Nicoloso at Ouronyx An expert injector, Dr Marco Nicoloso isn’t a fan of aesthetic trends and takes a holistic approach to the face. He is renowned for creating a subtle look which has gained him a loyal client following. @ouronyx; ouronyx.com

Dr Marwa Ali at Harrods Wellness Clinic With a global client base, men and women travel far and wide for Dr Marwa’s expertise. Never one to

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AESTHETIC GUIDE

overdo it, she’ll turn you away rather than risk an unnatural looking result. From undetectable tear trough filler to light injectable enhancements combined with HIFU and IPL, luminous skin quality is her thing. @dr_marwaali; harrods.com

Dr Maryam Zamani at Maryam Zamani Clinic An oculoplastic surgeon, Dr Zamani has a passion for facial aesthetics and works both in the US and UK. With a bestselling skincare line including her sell-out LED facial device, Dr Zamani knows that great skin is all about balance. Her lip, eye and hand rejuvenation treatments are second to none. @drmaryamzamani; drmaryamzamani.com

Dr Michael Prager at The Prager Clinic Offering what he calls ‘cosmedical wellbeing treatments’ at his Knightsbridge clinic, Dr Prager specialises in natural-looking injectables that boost your confidence without looking as though you’ve had anything done. @dr_michael_prager; drmichaelprager.com

Dr Mitul Shah at Chelsea Dental Clinic A renowned periodontist and implant specialist Dr Shah is expert in cosmetic gum improvements such as crown lengthening with extensive experience managing complex gum issues including recession. If you’re concerned about a gummy smile, then look no further. @drmitulshah; chelseadentalclinic.co.uk

Dr Nikki Izadi at White & Co Dental With a postgraduate in facial aesthetics, Dr Nikki’s skill with injectables shows in her meticulous attention to detail which she delivers with an artistic eye. @whiteandcodental; whiteandcodental.co.uk

R-T Dr Rhona Eskander at Chelsea Dental Clinic An award-winning cosmetic dentist who specialises in everything from ultranatural veneers to minimal edge bonding. If you’re looking for a youthful smile enhancement, she has the eye of an artist. @drrhonaeskander; chelseadentalclinic.co.uk

Dr Rita Rakus at Dr Rita Rakus Clinic The indisputable ‘London lip queen’, Dr Rakus is known for creating the perfect pout, while her Knightsbridge clinic houses some of the best cosmetic practitioners and high-tech machines from Emsculpt to Coolsculpting. @drritarakus_; ritarakus.co.uk

Dr Sabrina Shah-Desai This oculoplastic aesthetic surgeon is the go-to eye expert if you suffer from hollow, drawn under eyes, her knowledge is unparalleled. Her signature treatment, the Eye Boost, combines tear trough filler with complementary modalities to refresh the eyes. @drsabrinashahdesai; perfecteyesltd.com

Dr Selena Langdon at Berkshire Aesthetics A trained plastic surgeon, Dr Selena Langdon is the founder of Berkshire Aesthetics, a patient-focused clinic that specialises in long-term skin health. A skilled injector and Coolsculpting expert, she is internationally renowned for her body treatments. @drselenalangdon; berkshireaesthetics.com

Dr Sophie Shotter at Illuminate Skin Clinic From face tightening treatment Profound to the most subtle lip filler, Dr Shotter believes all work should look ‘invisible’ to the naked eye. @drsophieshotter; illuminateskinclinic.co.uk

Dr Stefanie Williams at Eudelo A highly regarded dermatologist, Dr Williams is a genius at correcting all kinds of pigmentation with her medical grade facials and combination approach of peels, laser, IPL and freezing techniques to achieve clear, even toned skin. @drstefaniew; eudelo.com

Dr Tijion Esho at Esho Clinic A rising star in the aesthetic medicine field, Dr Esho often speaks out against cosmetic procedure fads and prides himself on hiring the best medical professionals with advanced non-surgical training at his Wimbledon and Newcastle clinics. The Esho Touch is one of his signature treatments which involves a tailored prescription of filler and anti-wrinkle injections. @theeshoclinic; eshoclinic.co.uk

Dr Tracy Mountford at The Cosmetic Skin Clinic With her bespoke, intuitive approach to rejuvenation, Dr Mountford has decades of experience with injectables and knows how best to treat each face by eye. She combines injections with devices like Ultherapy that targets the deeper layers of the skin for longer lasting results. @the_cosmetic_skin_ clinic; cosmeticskinclinic.com

U-Z Dr Uliana Gout at London Aesthetic Medicine From her medical facials to her seven-site injection procedure that treats the face neck and décolletage, Dr Uliana believes early intervention is key and has published numerous research papers on preventative ageing. As president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, her extensive knowledge has led her to

develop her ‘intelligent aesthetic’ technique using complementary procedures that target every layer of the face from the bone to the muscle and the skin surface for the most natural looking results. @Iam__clinic; london-aesthetic-medicine. com

Dr Vicky Dondos at Medicetics Author of The Positive Ageing Plan, unsurprisingly Dr Dondos believes in a gentle inside-out approach to natural beauty. Beauty editors prize her injectable skills as being rejuvenating and undetectable. Best for a subtle refresh. @drvickydondos; medicetics.com

Dr Victoria Manning and Dr Charlotte Woodward at River Aesthetics Known for a holistic inside out approach that combines nutrition and fitness advice with minimally invasive treatments, Drs Manning and Woodward are leading experts in Silhouette Soft, a subtle thread lift treatment to reduce sagging. @river_aesthetics; riveraesthetics.com

Dr Wassim Taktouk at Taktouk Clinic Dr Wassim Taktouk is the insider’s go-to doctor. A master at artful facial contouring, he is loved by women and men looking for a subtle tweakment. @drwassimtaktouk; drwassimtaktouk.com

Dr Yusra at Dr Yusra Clinic A dental surgeon and medical aesthetic clinician, Dr Yusra notched up several years’ experience in maxillofacial and skin cancer surgery before focusing on cosmetic procedures. She is known for her natural non-surgical rhinoplasty and facelifts harnessing a discerning combination of dermal filler, thread lifts and facial devices. @dryusraclinic; dryusra.com

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STAGES EVENTS ARTISTS

“A UK first. Back to big thinking” The Guardian

NE W P OR T S TR E E T, H AY- ON - W YE G E T 20% O F F T I C K E T S W I T H C O D E C O U N T RY 2022

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INTERIORS Edited by Carole Annett

STEEL Magnolias Trailblazing women like Rosa Parks, mathematician Ada Lovelace and LGBTQ+ activist Marsha P Johnson inspired artist Diane Hill when she was creating her first collection for Harlequin. Reviving chinoiserie for the modern day, the designs feature delicate trailing vines, detailed blossoms, soaring birds and English trellises. From £85. harlequin.sandersondesigngroup.com

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INTERIORS | News SERVING UP SUNSHINE Paper invests in responsible manufacturing and sustainable fabrics to look after Planet Earth. Set of four napkins from £75, four placemats from £95. paperlondon.com

HAPPY GLOW Scallop hand painted pendant light. £390, davidhuntlighting.co.uk

FLOOR POLISH Rug designer Amy Kent and Daydress founder and former creative director at House & Garden magazine, Gabby Deeming have merged their creative talent in four new rug designs. Pheasant rug, £810 per sq/m. amykent.co.uk

Design NOTES All the latest news from the interiors world. By Carole Annett

CHUNKY CHOPS

The Chubby chair is hand crafted from magenta velvet and navy and brown jacquard. A lovely way to brighten up a home. £4,000, sannelondon.com

PERFECTLY FORMED Duravit creates a feel-good factor in a small space. Visit the website for bathroom inspiration. duravit.co.uk

POSH NOSH

Robin Birley of private members’ club 5 Hertford St has linked up with designer Willie Landels to present traditional and stylish homewares. This multicoloured pepper mill speaks of the time Willie spent with designer Gio Ponti. £125, sales@ birley.com

BEDSIDE MANNER

Hästens first foray into bedroom furniture – an ash box of birch and leather with steel legs, designed by Bernadotte & Kylberg. £11,390, hastens.com

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G’DAY

SPRING BLOOM

Award-winning Aussie brand King lands in the UK. Fleur sofa. From £2,290. kingliving.co.uk

Wildwood linen by Sophia Frances at Haines Curates, an online offering from salvage textile expert Jules Haines that brings together a curated community of ecoconscious designers who place environmental impact and waste reduction at the core of their business. £130 p/m, hainescollection.co.uk

FLORA & FAUNA

Tiger Moth and Stinging Nettle are part of a limited edition of tableware illustrated by Bell Hutley and Caryn Hibbert of Thyme at Southrop, and designed by daughter Milly Hibbert. From £12. bertioli.co.uk TRICIA TUTORIAL Study with Tricia Guild of Designers Guild in an online course, four lessons you choose to do as and when suits with feedback from Tricia on assignments. From £45. learningwith experts.com

TWIST AND TOILE Nina Campbell Toile Chinoise envelops a headboard, cushions, bedspread and valence. £85 p/m, osborneandlittle.com

INSPIRED BY THE GODS

Ancient Greek Sandals co-founder Christina Martini collaborated with her ex-Hermès product designer and olive oil farmer husband to present their debut collection of practical yet beautiful objects evoking Greek nostalgia. From £85. ancient-greek-sandals.com May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 149

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INTERIORS | Focus

LIGHTS UP

Throw some shade

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OKA Claudette table lamp. £275, oka.com Ludlow Easy Peasy rechargeable table light by Luca Nichetto for Lodes. £245, holloways ofludlow.com

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EVERGREEN

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Decorating with green fulfils many moods, from serene to sophisticated

Jamb Armstrong cast brass Art Deco wall lantern with extravagant C-scrolls in brown bronze finish. £1,850. jamb.co.uk

Anglepoise x The National Trust Desk lamp. £239, anglepoise.com

4

1 Deirdre Dyson’s All At Sea rug collection was inspired by time on a boat watching light dancing on waves. Sunlit (hanging) and Sunshaft, from £1,080 per sq/m. deirdredyson.com 2 Furniture maker Artichoke’s pantry design. Siberian larch cupboards painted with a Farrow & Ball archive hue matched with hand painted wallpaper by Allyson McDermott replicating William Morris. From £70,000. artichoke-ltd.com 3 Wall&Decò Italian Dandy waterproof wallpaper at West One Bathrooms. £171.60 per sq/m. westonebathrooms.com 4 Maison Leleu’s iconic designs reimagined by Lelièvre Paris. Retrospective collection fabric, £120; wallpaper, £358. lelievreparis.com

Pooky x Liberty Murphy lamp with yellow Tulasi shade. Lamp, £117; shade, £51, pooky.com

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New collections in all our showrooms www.cphart.co.uk | 0345 600 1950

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INTERIORS | Trend AMARA L’Objet Stars napkin rings in platinum and white crystals (set of four). £175, amara.com

ROSE & GREY Mid-century brown ribbed leather and oak armchair. £1,250, roseandgrey.co.uk

FORTNUM & MASON Platinum Jubilee candle. £60, fortnumandmason.com

KATHARINE POOLEY Amber oval glass vase. £290, katharine pooley.com

OKA Celestine lamp. £495, oka.com

TORI MURPHY Harbour Stripe tablecloth. £102, torimurphy.com

PLATINUM MEMENTOES Commemorative Jubilee keepsakes

JUBILEE JOY

The celebrations have sparked interest in mid-century homeware, says Tallulah Rushaya

NINA CAMPBELL Small sea foam matchstriker. £430, ninacampbell.com

MAISON MARGAUX Vintage wine glasses (set of four). £56, maisonmargaux.com 1 JAN CONSTANTINE Street Party cushion in navy. £139, janconstantine.com

ERCOL Windsor anniversary cabinet. £2,680, ercol.com

FIONA FINDS Bamboo plates. From £25. fionafinds.co.uk

2 SOPHIE ALLPORT Jubilee tea towel (set of two). £19.50, sophieallport.com 3 HALCYON DAYS The Union Flag box. £175, halcyondays.co.uk

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INTERIORS | Case Study

‘The thought behind KALEIDOSCOPE was that, as you turned each corner in the HOTELS, you would DISCOVER something you were not EXPECTING’

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Through the Kaleidoscope Ian Taylor’s art-filled Bath home is an artful lesson in the unexpected, says Tallulah Rushaya

H

Hotelier Ian Taylor has carried over his penchant for paradisiacal, personality-filled interiors from his hotels to a new Regency home in Bath

otelier Ian Taylor has always had a penchant for interiors. ‘I had a good eye for changing furniture layouts in bedrooms and was keen to choose colour schemes in the family home at the age of 12,’ he remembers. He co-founded hotel group the Kaleidoscope Collection with his wife Christa in 2016, which now includes Homewood, The Bird, Bath and Bishopstrow Hotel and Spa. ‘The thought behind Kaleidoscope was that, as you turned each corner in the hotels, you would discover something you were not expecting,’ he recalls. This philosophy extends to Ian’s magnificent new home in Bath – complete with seven bedrooms and bathrooms each with their own personalities – which took 14 months to refurbish. It was important for Ian to restore the Georgian Grade I-listed property, located on one of Bath’s beloved Regency crescents, to its original layout. A historical report was commissioned, resulting in uncovering the original floorplans that went on to guide the whole project. A dedicated collector with a particular admiration for old Murano glass, finding a way to showcase Ian’s extensive art collection was also central to the renovation project. In total, he had 800 artworks and 100 ornamental swans, among other artefacts, to find spots for. The result? A home bursting with colour, life and, just as in his hotels, with surprises around every corner. Framed floral oil paintings decorate the kitchen ceiling, while staircases are used to showcase a vast collection of stamps, wine openers and shells, among other artworks. Adding to the many showstoppers are the 24 chandeliers dotted throughout the house. ‘I love and appreciate the beauty of lighting along with collecting interesting and unusual chandeliers,’ Ian explains. Entrusted with them was the creative director of award-winning brand John Cullen Lighting, Sally Storey, who he credits for ensuring his art collection is well lit. Out of the innumerable treasure troves in the home, one of Ian’s favourite rooms is the observatory, with windows that frame a view of the hills surrounding Bath. ‘This is a wonderful place with two balconies front and back. We installed a new sky light which had to be craned for installation,’ shares Ian. ‘The collections I had earmarked for the observatory were an antique selection of telescopes and hot air balloons.’ The finished project is a perfect example of how to combine a warm and welcoming family home with an incredible art collection, without letting one overrule the other. Does Ian have any tips for budding art collectors who want to follow suit? His advice is simple: ‘Buy only what you like.’ kaleidoscopecollection.co.uk 

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A Blue Forest treehouse is perfect for children of all ages

PHOTOS: GETTY

TREES OF LIFE

Treehouses aren’t just for kids, says Randle Siddeley, as he builds one for Chelsea Flower Show

M

ay is that delightful time of year when everything is in bloom again and gardens all over England are fragrant with jasmine and coming up roses. For me, late May also means the RHS Chelsea Flower Show and this year my team is going all out, teaming up with Fairmont Windsor Park Hotel and Blue Forest, which I consider to be the Rolls-Royce of treehouses (blueforest. com). Blue Forest makes the kind of extravagantly imaginative treehouses that appeal just as much to grown-ups as to children, all hand-crafted, bespoke and carefully constructed so as not to damage surrounding trees. As Blue Forest’s founder Andy Payne says, ‘Everyone loves treehouses for some reason, whether it’s a rambling shack up a ladder and your memories of being a child, or a man-cave in a tree, they’re magic for everybody’. Blue Forest has a refreshing ‘of course we can do that’ attitude, which makes it a great company to work with and means there is no limit placed on a client’s imagination. The treehouse we’re going to be exhibiting at Chelsea is around seven by five metres, so even though it’s two metres above the ground it’s big enough almost to fill the whole plot. Once we’ve dismantled it at the end of the show, it will be reinstated in a woodland area at the Fairmont Windsor Park hotel. Around the treehouse, we’re creating an instant woodland, and

Randle’s Chelsea Flower Show garden will reach new heights this year

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Gardening | INTERIORS anyone with a large enough garden can do the same. I recommend Deepdale nursery, which specialises in ready-to-go fairly mature trees in containers. Their root balls are prewrapped in ‘airpots’, or black plastic aerated membranes, so they’ll keep in their pots for two or three years and the roots won’t emerge. Once you plant them out, the rootballs will quickly flourish (deepdale-trees.co.uk). We’ve sited our treehouse amongst trees about eight metres high to give it a sense of proportion, starting with two black alders, Alnus Glutinosas. They’re known for their timber because Dutch clog makers swear by it and it’s also the wood used to make the charcoal for gunpowder. We’ll also have a tall European beech, Fagus sylvatica, with lovely, feathery branches. Our challenge will be finding one tight enough so its branches don’t spread out of our allotted space, but it will rise magnificently above the building, enveloping it and softening its form in green. Its branches will also provide a green screen around the top deck so you can imagine sitting in a bathtub up there in absolute peace and privacy. I’m also planting two multi-stemmed hazels, Corylus avellana, that you usually see in traditional woods and hedgerows. Around the trees will be lush layers of ornamental plants, tolerant of dappled shade, like ferns, small rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, digitalis and ferns. I use Kelways in Somerset, a garden supplier that’s been around since 1851 and won Chelsea Flower Show medals, so it has reliable service and an excellent selection of woodland plants (kelways. co.uk). Visitors will enter our woodland site from The treehouse garden Randle and his an inviting paved area just off the main avenue team will build alongside Blue Forest and I’ve used Artisans to supply the paving stones.

Fill your flowerbeds below with cheerful digitalis

PHOTOS: GETTY

‘Everyone loves treehouses for some reason, whether it’s a rambling shack... or a man-cave in a tree, they’re magic for everybody’ Finally, to add some theatrical fun and extra level of adventure, I started thinking about installing a fun outdoor elevator up to the treehouse. Anyone with a house perched on a cliff or hilltop will have a lovely view but perhaps the less lovely prospect of an arduous zigzag climb up to the top. On investigation, I found that funiculars are not available in the UK but then discovered US-based Hill Hiker. Founder Bill MacLachlan says his elevators are very popular with clients in places like Hawaii, Martha’s Vineyard or Mustique, who want to be able to step from their yacht straight into a vehicle to whisk them up to their house. Hill Hiker’s elevators are now available to import (hillhiker.com). They are basically outdoor boxes with handrails around them which can take up to six. A basic one will set you back $100,000 or so but what smarter way to reach your tree house than via a Hill Hiker? Meanwhile, Blue Forest will continue providing plenty of imaginative ways of getting up and down, from rope ladders, slides, tubes and zipwires to secret staircases hidden behind bookcases. The great thing about Blue Forest is that its treehouses inspire everyone’s inner child. Even when the children have long grown out of them, they will provide adults with a sense of romantic escape into nature and satisfy everyone’s fantasy of having a secret forest den or a magical entertainment space for a memorable lunch or dinner high in the treetops. A Blue Forest treehouse represents all the adventure and enchantment of a midsummer dream, and I am delighted to be collaborating with them at Chelsea. I very much look forward to seeing you all there. Get to hard-to-reach treehouses in style with a Hill Hiker elevator

Randle Siddeley is a leading landscape architect and garden designer. randlesiddeley.co.uk  May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 157

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HOTELS&

TR AVEL Call of the Wild

With pent-up wanderlust finally released, big ticket trips – with conservation at their heart – are inspiring travellers with cash to spend. Olivia Palamountain heads to the Ngorongoro Crater for some animal adventures

Tarangire National Park in Tanzania is elephant country, with multigenerational herds easy to spot

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F

rom the rim of Tanzania’s breathtaking Ngorongoro Crater, the mystery of what lies 2,000ft deep is eclipsed only by the suspense of scanning for game on the fertile plains and forest floor below. Some 35,000 animals live corralled in this natural ‘pen’ – zebra, several cats, gazelle, flamingo, leopard and even the elusive black rhino – all jostling for life in Africa’s great wilderness. I’m panning across the landscape through a pair of binoculars when a huge male lion jumps into focus. Impassive as a sphinx, his battle-worn face is smeared crimson with blood and a fresh kill – a zebra – lies at his feet. The 4WD falls silent, chatter replaced by the thud of beating hearts as we gawp at the magnificent creature in front of us before moving on, giddy with adrenaline. It’s a rush to see the big ticket game but encounters with the little ones don’t disappoint. The most unlikely and overlooked joker of the jungle has to be the warthog. Crowned with a blaze of bleached hair like your favourite 80s rocker, watching these sassy little tanks frolic en famille or genuflect to graze beats any blockbuster. We bump and grind around the perimeter of Ngorongoro en route to Sanctuary Crater Camp, expertly navigated by our outstanding guides Dominic and Emmanuel, who manage to avoid the worst of the potholes while fielding 101 animal questions. Out of nowhere, a cluster of safari tents appears. A full bar gleams in the late afternoon sun, echoed by the beaming team, who get busy offering sundowners and canapés. I’ve slept in my fair share of tents but they usually consist of a budget canvas, hastily erected at a music festival. Transport these digs to Glastonbury and you’d never bother with the acts. Another level of luxe, the tents are filled with beds that swallow you whole, private decks, a shower bigger than my own at home and hair dryers for that all-important safari-chic blow dry. The best bit about ‘camping’ here? Instead of being roused by some drunken moron and his tinny speakers, expect the gentlest of dawn wake-up calls from your personal butler, accompanied by steaming

FROM TOP: The best view is from a hot-air balloon; spot lions in their natural habitat; tent life is far from rough-andready at Sanctuary Crater Camp

coffee and homemade biscuits. In the common area, dinner is served family style. We swap stories over great bowls of beef stew, steamed tilapia, shredded cabbage with orange, coconut rice, mash and buttery carrots, blissfully unaware of the bush and its nocturnal creatures rousing all around us. After a warming feast and a few large glasses of the excellent house wine, it’s easy to forget where you are – but the fact that all guests must be accompanied by a member of staff after-dark acts as a sage reminder: we’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto. Heady and happy, I flop into bed, delighting in the knowledge that four Maasai warriors are guarding the camp, ready to wrestle with any rogue predators that stray too close. If there’s anything cooler than that, let me know. Next stop? The Doffa Bike Shop in Karatu, a female-driven project from A&K Philanthropy that trains women (specifically single mothers and those living with HIV) as bicycle mechanics, fixing up imported second-hand bikes to be sold

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Tanzania | HOTELS & TRAVEL on for around 150k Tanzanian Shillings (£50-60). The team – Fabiola, Dora and Dora – resplendent in navy overalls, accessorised with chunky silver jewellery, present their handiwork. Soon, a bead shop and tourist cafe will join the bike shop to create a community hub – but that’s not what excites our hostesses the most. ‘Even the men come here to get their bikes fixed,’ giggles Fabiola, breaking into the most beautiful smile. Considering that most women do not work here, least of all in a hands-on, consumerfacing trade, these ladies are doing something both extraordinary and important. There’s further interaction with Tanzania’s women over a cooking class with Nazay at her homestead deep in the forest. I’m decked out in vibrant, printed Kanga, then set to work on the likes of pilau – a spiced rice dish that arrived here via India, fragrant with crispy onion, cumin, ginger, cardamom, turmeric and tomato. Shy at first, when Nazay realises how much I love to cook, she gets into her groove, scoffing sweetly at my clumsy efforts to recreate her delicious signature dishes. Over in the Tarangire National Park, a different sort of snack is underway. This area is renowned as elephant country and it’s moments before a huge multi-generational herd ambles past us, feeding on foliage as we motor past to Sanctuary Swala. A drop-dead gorgeous and eco-friendly permanent camp surrounded by ancient baobabs and acacia trees, with views over the savannah beyond, if magnificent Swala doesn’t move you, the staff will. I thought I had rhythm until I danced with these guys. Game drives offer up incredible animal rendezvous, but a walking safari with Swala’s head ranger Joseph manifests low key treasures of the bush. Among trippy flashes of sapphire and emerald iridescence courtesy of the lilac-breasted roller, tiny cream butterflies and the hum of a million invisible insects are towering termite mounds reminiscent of Giacometti sculptures and myriad medicinal trees used for such things

FROM TOP: Searching for local wildlife at Sanctuary Swala; settling into the tents; spotting elephants; elegant zebras; camps are guarded by Masai warriors

as treating Alzheimer’s or brewing beer. It’s from the aerial heights of a hot-air balloon, however, that the most remarkable expression of Tarangire is revealed. From grumpy herds of buffalo and dazzles of peaceful zebra, to lonesome ostriches, meandering elephants and awkward galloping giraffes, this surreal and captivating view of the juxtaposing creatures that coexist here humbles us all. Action-packed days unfold into dreamy nights spent huddled around the campfire, immersed in the tranquillity of the bush and drinking in the sky as it shifts from cerulean to pink then inky black, christened by a blaze of glittering stars. On our way back to civilization, Tarangire delivers its final flourish. A pride of four juvenile lions rests on a bank beside the road, languishing under a tree, ‘waiting for their mother to return with dinner,’ says Emmanuel. They eye us up with nonchalant disregard. Spellbound, we linger, before continuing our journey through the park past sporadic totems of chalky bones that glow white in the heat of the day. Call me macabre, but there’s something beautiful about their eerie pallor, a stark contrast to the vitality of the world around them. A warning sign? Maybe. Or just a reminder that death comes for us all – so invest in living while you can. BOOK IT: Abercrombie & Kent offers a five-night safari in Tanzania from £5,450pp with two nights at Ngorongoro Crater/ Sanctuary Crater Camp and three nights at Tarangire National Park/ Sanctuary Swala Camp. Includes flights, guide and activities including canoe safari, walking safari, hot air balloon and visit to A&K Philanthropy project. abercrombiekent.co.uk May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 161

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TANZANIAN DREAMS From private island paradises to wildlife wanderlust, keep it green in Tanzania

1

THANDA ISLAND, Mafia archipelago

At Thanda Island, an eight-hectare private jewel set within a protected marine reserve, sustainability and luxury go hand in hand. Discover the range of marine conservation initiatives and education programmes that exist on the island and in the region, from a visit to the coral nursery to immersive experiences in local community projects. Guests are assigned their own personal marine biologist for whale shark excursions and responsible underwater activities. Even the diving gear is eco-friendly, thanks to rash vests made from recycled plastic, and with the marine reserve teeming with more than 280 species of tropical fish, you’re guaranteed a dazzling view. Fishing might be illegal here, but that doesn’t mean you’ll miss out on incredible local seafood. Foodies can expect magnificent dining experiences such as a Swahili feast, a decadent affair that includes curries with hand-squeezed coconut milk, fresh lobster and oysters, or themed cooking classes to learn how to cook traditional dishes using locally sourced ingredients. BOOK IT: A buy-out of Thanda Island costs £25,400 per night. Minimum stay is five nights. thandaisland.com

2

USANGU EXPEDITION CAMP, Ruaha National Park

New to Tanzania this year is Usangu Expedition Camp, a citizen science and conservation experience in the wild and uncharted Usangu wetlands of Ruaha National Park. It’s the only camp for almost 100 kilometres, so close-up animal encounters with herds of roan and sable wild dogs, ostriches and the thousands of migratory bird species are likely to be all yours. When not relaxing in one of four ensuite tents, or exploring the bush on a game drive or canoe safari, guests are invited to get involved with the camp’s efforts to discourage poaching, uplift local communities and collect important scientific data pertaining to the local ecosystem. Every booking includes a private guide and vehicle, so you’re free to follow your own agenda, as well as a camera trap for you to place around the camp for overnight recording of animals. If you’re really keen, you can help researchers back at the lab catalogue the footage and ID individual predators – or possibly identify a new one. BOOK IT: From £530 pp per night. asiliaafrica.com/camps-lodges/ usangu-expedition-camp 162 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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Tanzania | HOTELS & TRAVEL

3

DUNIA CAMP, Serengeti

Finding female energy in the male-dominated safari industry is a struggle. But at Dunia Camp, deep in the Serengeti National Park, you are guaranteed a woman’s touch. Why? The only camp in Africa run entirely by women, every single employee at this trailblazing lodge is female, which lends Dunia a unique and special energy. The great wildebeest migration passes straight through camp, bringing with it lions, leopards and even the endangered black rhino, so get set for enthralling predator action. Or find a new perspective from the heights of a hot-air balloon. Additionally, the camp has access to specially modified photographic vehicles that allow both wannabe snappers and professionals to shoot at eye level. Equipped with all the gear needed to capture killer animal shots, expect beanbags, camera rests and 360° swivel seats. BOOK IT: From £350pp per night. asiliaafrica.com/camps-lodges/dunia-camp

4

MATEMWE RETREAT, Zanzibar

Sweet dreams are made of Matemwe, a boutique beach resort set on the lush northeastern coast of Zanzibar. The property is made up of three accommodations – the Lodge, Beach House and Retreat – but if it’s romance and privacy you’re after, it has to be the Retreat. A lesson in decadence, each of the four Retreat villas are elevated over the beach so you can throw open your ground floor bedroom doors and immerse yourself in the turquoise horizon of the Indian Ocean beyond. Drink it all in with a cocktail from the dreamy sunken bathtub. Upstairs, meanwhile, a vast, secluded roof terrace has nude sunbathing written all over it. A dedicated butler caters to any whim and a personal chef is all yours. The food? Fabulous, a true celebration of the many cultural influences that make up the island, with a laser focus on seasonality and sustainability, with seafood sourced only from local fishermen using responsible techniques. BOOK IT: Retreat villas from £390 pp per night. matemwe.asiliaafrica.com/matemwe-retreat  May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 163

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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Escape

A TIME OF GIFTS

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taying in the former home of Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, war hero, polymath and arguably the world’s greatest travel writer, is a glorious delight if you are a fan of the well-loved Grecophile. Designed and built in the 1960s by Leigh Fermor and his wife Joan in an olive grove overlooking a secluded bay in the Mani, the property still manages to evoke its famous creator. While many houses morph into new identities when their makers move on, the Leigh Fermor house, now managed under the auspices of the Benaki Museum, is little changed. The house remains crammed full of Paddy (as his friends called him) and Joan’s books, paintings – the most valuable have been replaced with facsimiles – ceramics, old photographs and objets d’art. Everywhere you look are details curated by the couple, a kaleidoscope of artistic references gathered from their travels: a fireplace modelled on one that Paddy had seen in Romania; a pebbled terrace based on a design from Olympia; a huge, circular marble dining table inlaid with motifs copied from one in a Verona church. It takes little imagination to picture the elegant sitting room that Sir John Betjeman described as ‘one of the rooms of the world’, filled with artists, poets, royalty and writers, all taking inspiration from their erudite hosts. As a Leigh Fermor fan, I am giddy with excitement to be staying here, the guest of friends who have rented it for a week during summer. It is everything that I want it to be and more. I knew from photos that the house was beautiful, but I am unprepared for its idyllic setting in a bower of cypress trees, where cicadas endlessly drum and scrape, and the way the house opens itself up to an enormous sweep of clear blue Aegean Sea and sky. Little wonder that Leigh Fermor was smitten when he came across the plot of land near the seaside village of Kardamyli in 1962. He described walking down to ‘a gently sloping world of the utmost magical beauty’. After nearly two years of negotiation, Paddy and Joan signed the contract for the plot. In the years that followed ‘the loose-limbed monastery cum farmhouse’ took shape. Its creation took time. The house would not be completed until the end of the 1960s. Paddy’s journey ‘from the snake-belts and the bat oil’ of his regimented British boarding school to Peloponnese’s wild and rugged coast was one of lively adventure and derring-do. As an 18-year-old he walked from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople (now Istanbul), sleeping in hayricks and castles, and falling in love with a Romanian princess en route. Some 40 years later he wrote two books about it: A Time of Gifts and Between the Woods and the Water. His European walk ended in 1934 but Paddy resumed his 164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May/June 2022

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travels a few weeks later going to Mount Athos in Greece, where he experienced Greek hospitality for the first time. When in 1940 the British Army Intelligence Corps were looking for officers with a knowledge of Greek, Paddy, now aged 25, jumped at the chance to become an agent of the Special Operations Executive (SOE). His audacious kidnapping of a German commander in Crete, General Kreipe, saw him return home to a Distinguished Service Order and a film version of his exploits, with Dirk Bogarde playing him as a handsome black-shirted resistance leader. After the war he worked for a short time in Athens at the British Institute and travelled extensively in and around Greece. That Paddy would soon create a home in this country that had made such an impression on him had a certain inevitability about it. After a few days here – savouring Paddy’s descriptive writing, nearly, but not quite, swimming out to the little island known as Merope (Paddy swam out to and round it every day, well into his 80s), whiling away scorching afternoons in shady crescent-shaped nooks, chatting, laughing, eating, drinking – my friends and I set out exploring. The Mani is separated from the rest of Greece by the towering Taygetus mountains and feels like another world, a reclusive patch of land where medieval towers and craggy coastline mix with hundreds of Orthodox Christian churches and silvery vistas of gnarled and half-hollow olive trees. We stroll around Kardamyli, a pretty village of bougainvillea and vine-draped houses, and visit its medieval heart of fortified tower houses and a small museum. We eat at his former housekeeper’s taverna, Lela’s, overlooking the bay. One day we take a boat down to picture-postcard Limeni for lunch at fish taverna Takis, where our fresh octopus is cleaned into the sea, attracting a huge loggerhead turtle. Mostly, though, we stay in, loathe to leave the Leigh Fermor’s enchanting home. In 1996, Paddy and Joan made the decision to bequeath the house to the Benaki Museum. Leigh Fermor specified that he wanted his home to be used as a writers’ retreat and, acknowledging that this would be expensive, granted permission for it to be rented in summer months. Seven years later, Joan passed away after a fall at the house. Paddy soldiered on. On 9 June 2011, he left Greece for the last time. He was 96. He died in England the following day and was buried beside his beloved Joan. On his gravestone is an inscription in Greek: ‘In addition, he was that best of all things, Hellenic.’ BOOK IT: Exclusive villa rental costs around £25,000 for the week (sleeps 10) and includes breakfast, daily cleaning and concierge service. ariahotels.gr 

PHOTOS: EMMA INGLIS, EXCEPT FOR ONE OF PATRICK LEIGH FERMOR, COURTESY OF BENAKI MUSEUM - THE GHIKA GALLERY, PHOTOGRAPHIC ARCHIVE, ATHENS

Emma Inglis follows in the footsteps of acclaimed travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor at his exquisite home in the Mani, Greece

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Leigh Fermor’s enchanting house in the Mani is little changed to this day

‘I am UNPREPARED for its IDYLLIC setting in a BOWER of CYPRESS trees, where CICADAS endlessly drum and SCRAPE’

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GOING OFF-GRID Find some respite from the frenetic modern world with an electricity-free holiday, says sustainable travel expert and author Richard Hammond

1

Chaffinch Cottage, Northumberland

One of several holiday cottages converted from old stone houses 1,400ft above sea level in the hills of the upper Coquet Valley in the Northumberland National Park, offering epic views and star-strewn night skies. Electricity for the estate is provided by solar panels and wind turbines, water comes from bore holes and wood burners use wood from the owners’ own wind. kidlandlee.co.uk

2

The Bothy at Nether Glenny, Port of Menteith

Found in the splendid isolation of The Trossachs on an 84acre hillside farm in the Menteith Hills overlooking the gorgeous Lake of Menteith, The Bothy is billed as a retreat just for two. There’s no TV or Wi-Fi, just wonderful views from a wood-fired hot tub. The pine-clad interior has one double room, kitchen, and a cosy mezzanine bedroom. netherglenny.com

3

Laggan, Ardnish

A gorgeous, whitewashed cottage by the sea on the Ardnish peninsula in the north-west of Scotland that’s about as remote as it gets in the UK – there’s no road access, and the only way in is a three-hour walk or a 10-minute private boat trip. Lest you feel a little trapped, there’s a boat provided, so you can discover the marine wildlife and explore the wild coastline on foot or by sea before returning to the tranquil idyll. ardnish.org

PHOTOS: © ADAM LYNK; © BILLIE CHARITY

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he ultimate eco holiday is one that is off grid. But lest you think that means spending a night in a bivvy bag up the boughs of a tree, thanks to the great advances that have been made in renewable technology, there are lots of wonderful eco-friendly places on terra firma, from luxurious glampsites to beautifully renovated stone cottages, often in wonderful locations. The opportunity provided by these bolt holes – sanctuaries from the electronic demands of modern life – is to switch off, recharge, and enjoy the simple things: butterflies, birdsong and the night sky, where the only air conditioning is likely to be the sea breeze or the wind in the trees.

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Escape | HOTELS & TRAVEL

4 2

5

Blackthorn Cottage, Crickhowell

A beautiful stone-roofed cottage on the slopes of the Black Mountains in the Brecon Beacons National Park close to the Georgian town of Crickhowell and Abergavenny, where there’s a railway station on the Welsh Marshes Line from Newport to Hereford. There’s just one room but there are day beds in the living room for extra people. holidaycottages.co.uk

Cosy Under Canvas, Powys

A well-established glampsite in the Brecon Beacons. The roomy geodesic domes are dotted throughout the woods out of sight of one another. Lanterns are rechargeable electric, water comes from a spring, plus there’s a wood-fired hot tub, woodland shower, and an outdoor, upcycled Chiminea woodstove with a fire pit. Founded in 2009, The kitchens are kitted out with everything you could possibly need, including a Rayburn oven – great for slow cooking stews. cosyundercanvas.co.uk

6 5

Eco Retreats, Powys

This was one of the first yurt camps in the UK, on a working organic farm just outside Machynlleth, close to the Centre for Alternative Technology. Soak in the finest remote forest bathing – there are just five yurt camps (each with their own wood-fired baths) spread over 50 acres in the Dyfi Forest. ecoretreats.co.uk

7

Hinterlandes, Cumbria

Three places to stay that are moved to a new location every 28 days to ensure the lightest environmental footprint. Inspired by the tiny house movement in the USA, owners Hannah and John Graham have converted an American school bus and built a portable ‘hidden hut’ and contemporary larch cabin that they move to remote hideouts in the Lake District. hinterlandes.com

8

Birch Cottage, Co. Antrim

A solar- and windpowered cottage in birch woods on an organic smallholding among the rolling drumlin hills of the Mourne Mountains. The owners of this pioneering project, Steve and Claire, have aimed to meet its energy, food, waste and water requirements themselves. They’ve become so adept at it, the farm has become a centre for practical sustainability and they now supply off-grid equipment across Ireland. lackancottage.co.uk

9

Bulworthy Cabin, Devon

A lovely little cabin for two in its own private glade that’s part of a DIY woodland management enterprise known as the Bulworthy Project, transforming the woodland into a nature reserve. Solar power provides the electricity and the water is heated by a wood-burning stove. The owners plant a native or fruit tree for every night booked. The site is within the North Devon Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO as an area of special environmental importance. bulworthy.uk

10

Devon Dens, Devon

Two sustainable timber cabins in woodland close to Dartmoor and beaches, in north and south Devon and Cornwall. Solar energy provides power, loos are dry with natural water filtration systems, all waste is composted and there are lots of biodiversity initiatives, including Freedom beehives. devondens.co.uk

PHOTOS: © ADAM LYNK; © BILLIE CHARITY

7

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Extract taken from The Green Traveller by Richard Hammond, out now (Pavilion Books, £18.99) May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 167

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PHOTO: © DAVID LOFTUS

FOOD&DRINK

Taste of Sunshine Make this salad from The Platinum Jubilee Cookbook the star of your first sundrenched al fresco lunch

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FOOD&DRINK | Recipe Food philosophy? Use recipes

PICTURED ON PREVIOUS PAGE

SERVES 4 — — — — — — — — — — — —

2 tbsp light olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 200g burghul (bulgur wheat) 400ml boiling water A small bunch of green or red grapes, thinly sliced or chopped 50g sultanas 150g pomegranate seeds 6 figs, sliced 50g green or black olives 50g almond flakes A handful of coriander, mint and rocket leaves, roughly chopped Salt

Most vivid food memory?

Howling with disgust whenever aubergines were served. Slimy, bitter things. To her credit my mum still forced me to eat them – and now I love them! Favourite in-season ingredient? Lovage. It’s a very

FOR THE DRESSING — Juice of 1 lemon — 1 tablespoon silan (date syrup) — 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

T

he chef at the ambassador’s residence in Tel Aviv often creates a salad based on the biblical seven species – each one of which plays a huge role in today’s Israeli dishes: ‘A land of wheat and barley, vines and figs and pomegranates, a land of oil producing olives and honey’ (Deuteronomy 8.8).

METHOD

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 6–7 minutes, until translucent. Add the burghul and season with salt. Stir for a few seconds, then add the boiling water. Cover the pan and simmer for 12–15 minutes, until the burghul has softened and absorbed the liquid. Remove the pan from the heat. Leave the burghul to cool, then fluff it with a fork to loosen the grains. Transfer the cooled burghul to a mixing bowl, add all the remaining ingredients (reserve a few fig slices and some chopped herbs to garnish) and mix gently to distribute everything evenly. Transfer the salad to a serving dish. Combine the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and pour the dressing over the salad. Garnish with the reserved fig slices and scatter over the reserved herbs before serving.

as a guide not a straitjacket. I’ve yet to encounter a dish where it matters a jot that you’ve used two bay leaves instead of three! First dish you cooked? My mum used to make the most retro avocado and raw broccoli salad with a garlicky, pungent dressing. I remember making that while she was doing the main. She’s always been an amazing cook.

Foodie TALES Diplomat, chef and food writer Ameer Kotecha

old fashioned English herb, long favoured for its purported medicinal properties. All parts of it are edible – Queen Victoria used to fill her pockets with candied lovage seeds. Biggest mistake? Freezing a huge container of black daal to get ahead of the prep when hosting a big party. It refused to defrost – I had to chip away at it with a chisel to salvage dinner. Most memorable meal? I have the happiest memory of sitting al fresco with my family at a little place called Atlantikos in Athens, eating fried seafood and drinking cold Retsina. When you’re not in the kitchen, where are you? Noseying around the

charity shops in Pimlico, hoping to find some Wedgwood crockery. Any unusual kitchen rules?

I have a little rubber mat which I always put under my chopping board – it’s a tip I picked up when I did a short stint as a ‘stagiare’ at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. What’s in your fridge right now? Mackerel, chicken

thighs, an open tin of Mutti chopped tomatoes, a half-gnawed wedge of Colston Bassett, coriander stalks, potted shrimp and a Petits Filous. Who would you most like to take out for dinner? Roald

Dahl. We would go for fish and chips, and I would keep my fingers crossed that he liked the whole lot doused in salt and vinegar. The Platinum Jubilee Cookbook by Ameer Kotecha is out now (John Croft Editions, £30) 

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

An Ancient Salad

The Platinum Jubilee Cookbook celebrates the dishes that have graced British embassies around the world

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News | FOOD&DRINK CELEBR ATION ELEVATIONS Nyetimber’s new Tillington Single Vineyard 2014 vintage is fruity, floral and citrus-bright in all the right places. £100, nyetimber.com

NEW LEAF

Bored of Pret? Mix it up with a trip to Mayfair’s new Pink Tea Café for a taste of authentic chai culture from South Asia. Its signature Kashmiri pink tea is a must. pinkteacafe.com

LOVELYJUBILEE

Rising to royal occasion, The Goring is rebooting famous coronation-inspired dishes for the Platinum Jubilee. Think Dover sole with garnish ‘Edinburgh’, seaweed buttered Jersey Royal potatoes and salmon cornet with English wasabi and caviar. thegoring.com

Gastro GOSSIP Foraging the hedgerows and mingling at The Goring. By Sofia Tindall

FIELD NOTES

The art of foraging has experienced a revival among the sustainably minded. Christine Iverson’s apothecary guide to hedgerows will take you from novice to expert in no time. £10.99, Summersdale

JUST IN

Introducing your new favourite neighbourhood café – Potter & Reid has brought a slice of village charm to Spitalfields, along with world-class coffee. @potterandreid May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 171

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PROPERTY

Edited by Anna Tyzack

HOUSE OF THE MONTH Stanstead Hall, Greenstead Green, Essex 13 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, main house 10,900sq/ft; outbuilding, 17,340sq/ft; £6.5m In a sentence… Stanstead Hall is the perfect example of a historically important Tudor house with links to Catherine Parr and Henry VIII. What’s unique about it? The house, while grand, is very liveable. Many original features have been kept in place, but the home is also full of modern amenities. Any juicy history? The manor belonged to the Bouchier family until it passed to Sir William Parr, brother of Catherine Parr. He was made Earl of Essex in 1551, before losing his lands for supporting Lady Jane Grey. Queen Elizabeth I, however, later restored Stanstead Hall to him. Best room? The ground floor sitting room, with the most intricate carved wooden panelling, a bay window with great views over the grounds and an original plaster ceiling featuring multiple Tudor roses. What would summers be like? An absolute joy. The house features beautiful gardens including a heated swimming pool and pool house with a pizza oven. What would parties be like? The formal rooms were built for entertaining and as such they offer great options for many different occasions – whether it’s a small family party or even a wedding. +44 (0)20 7075 2806; savills.com

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WINDSOR W ith its undulating meadows, ancient forests and deer park, it’s easy to forget that Windsor Great Park is just 35 minutes from London. Surrounding it are polo fields, lakes, villages with charming pubs and a farm shop selling produce from Her Majesty’s 15,800 Windsor Estate. Meanwhile, Windsor itself has cobbled pedestrianised streets with artisan bakeries and boutiques and restaurants overlooking the Thames. ‘Windsor offers the ultimate work-life balance: you have stunning scenery, wide open spaces and historic architecture and yet you can still get into London quickly for a meeting,’ explains David Adams of David Adams Luxury Property (davidadams.london). No wonder, then, that the Royal family is so fond of Windsor. During lockdown, the Queen declared Windsor Castle, the longest occupied palace in Europe (it dates from the 11th century), as her primary residence. If rumours are to be believed, it’s only a matter of time before the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge make the move down the M4 from Kensington, too. They’re thought to be eyeing up Fort Belvedere, a turreted residence within Windsor Great Park, which used to belong to Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. ‘Windsor makes perfect sense for anyone wanting to combine working in London with space and fresh air,’ maintains Sue Barnes of Lavender Green Flowers (lavendergreen.co.uk), who does floristry for local royals. ‘We’re used to celebrities here; no one makes any fuss and children can have a proper Swallows and Amazons childhood.’ Indeed, so synonymous is Windsor with royalty and celebrities (Elton John and George Clooney and his wife, Amal, live in the area) that many London leavers overlook it, considering it out of their league. Yet Windsor suits commuting families for all the same reasons

it suits the Royals, David says. London is genuinely within easy reach – 35 minutes by train to Paddington or 55 minutes to Waterloo and a similar journey time by car. Once Crossrail, the new high-speed rail service starts running, the City will be even more accessible. Meanwhile, Heathrow is just 20 minutes by car, and Gatwick is 50 minutes. ‘Windsor has long attracted those that like to regularly travel to a second home in Portugal or Spain or a chalet in the Alps,’ David continues. The schools are another draw. There are league-topping state and independent schools offering more space and better facilities than London equivalents. Eton College, Prince William and Harry’s alma mater, is a short walk from the centre of Windsor, and Wycombe Abbey, Wellington College, St George’s and St Mary’s Ascot and Downe House are nearby. For prep schools there’s Sunningdale, Papplewick, Lambrook and Bishopsgate. Meanwhile Holyport College, an Eton-sponsored free school, Windsor Girls’ and Boys’ schools, and Sir William Borlase’s Grammar School in Marlow are highly regarded state schools. Windsor isn’t suburban in a dull way, though, insists Belinda Rolling, who moved from Barnes to a five-bedroom house in Virginia Water during lockdown with her husband, Dermot, and two young sons. There are plenty opportunities for all the traditional country pursuits, she says: walking, Pony Club, polo at Guards Polo Club and the Royal Berkshire Polo Club, golf at Sunningdale and Wentworth, while the cafés, spas and gyms are a home from home for London leavers. The restaurants, too, are on a par with the capital: the village of Bray, just over five miles away, has multiple Michelin-starred restaurants including the Waterside Inn, the Fat Duck and the Hinds Head, while Soho House has pitched a safari tent in the grounds of the Oakley Court hotel on the outskirts of Windsor, which is packed every weekend.

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Anna Tyzack discovers spacious family homes in the Queen’s own back garden


Let’s Move To | PROPERTY ‘Newcomers are often surprised to find their social lives become even busier than before,’ Sue comments. A house such as the Rollings’, which has nearly an acre of gardens and a garage with nanny flat above, costs between £1.5 million and £3 million. Many London leavers decide to base themselves within Windsor itself, however, where there is a wealth of four-bedroom period houses with gardens. ‘A major attraction for those moving out from Fulham and Wandsworth is that you get more house, for less money, and with grounds for the children,’ says David. There are large detached and semi-detached houses from £850,000 upwards on the ‘Golden Triangle’ of Frances Road, Kings Road and Adelaide Square, while elegant Georgian houses on Park Street have sold for more than £2.5 million. ‘You can trade up your four-storey London terrace for a wide six-bedroom detached period home surrounded by its own grounds,’ David continues. The quaint pockets of riverside homes are also much sought after, particularly around Old Windsor, adds Stuart Mun-Gavin, Northern Home Counties expert at Middleton Advisors

(middletonadvisors.com), although houses with water frontage sell for a premium. Also sought after are homes with large gardens in villages around the riverside towns of Henley, Marlow and Goring. ‘These are picture-postcard towns with an eclectic mix of shops and cafés on their high streets and the benefit from River Thames bridle paths and views,’ David says. At the top end of the market, a house on the river with grounds will cost anything from £4 million up to £8 million for a historic home or a small estate. ‘The market has risen sharply since the lockdowns started in March 2020,’ David explains. ‘Best in class have risen 20 per cent and are continuing to rise at 1 per cent a month.’ For the Rollings, the move to Windsor has ensured they can give their children the country prep school experience while still working full time in London. ‘I go to dinner and the theatre in London, we have Sunday lunch in Barnes with our old friends but when we arrive back in our driveway, with its enormous weeping willow, I feel my shoulders drop,’ Belinda says. ‘I don’t think any of us realised how much we were craving space and greenery.’

BEST FOR

A WALK IN THE PARK After walking the Long Walk to the Copper Horse statue in Windsor Great Park head for lunch at The Fox and Hounds in Englefield Green. thefoxandhounds restaurant.com DATE NIGHT Exhausted the gourmet offering at Bray? The Hand & Flowers at Marlow, with two Michelin stars, is the ideal alternative. thehandandflowers.co.uk SPA DAY The five-star Coworth Park, where Prince Harry spent the night before the royal wedding, has a spa, indoor pool and polo fields. dorchestercollection.com

A HISTORY LESSON Wander across the bridge from Windsor to Eton and join a heritage tour of Eton College Collections. etoncollege.com SUNDAY LUNCH The Windsor Farm Shop, housed in a row of former Victorian potting sheds sells produce from the Royal Farms and a good flat white. windsorfarmshop.co.uk

FROM LEFT: Windsor Castle is the longest occupied castle in Europe, dating back to the 11th century; Old Windsor Bridge

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH

FOR SALE

ST LEONARDS HILL, £2.5m Once a cottage belonging to a nearby manor house, North Lodge has been adapted over the years with a self contained annexe/office and spacious living areas. There’s also a beamed dining hall for family feasts, breakfast and garden rooms and a wealth of stone fireplaces and original features. hamptons.co.uk

ASCOT, £3m Nuptown House is Grade II-listed property built on land once held by Edward the Confessor’s consort, Queen Edith. The main house has five bedrooms and three reception rooms, and there are formal gardens, 2.5 acres of paddocks plus a fishing lake, tennis court, swimming pool and stables. davidadams.london

COOKHAM, £7.2m A castellated house positioned on the banks of the River Thames. The main home features open plan living and seven bedrooms, plus there’s a separate home office, garage and staff accommodation. The gardens lead down to 63m of river frontage with a mooring. davidadams.london 

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THE GOLDEN AGE

W

e’re all living longer than ever before (the number of centenarians living in the UK has risen by a massive 72 per cent over the last decade), so it’s high time ageing had an image makeover. And it so happens the revolution is already taking place. Enter ‘luxury later living’, a new era of retirement developments incorporating the highest standards of top quality design, service straight out of a five-star hotel and a readymade community of like-minded souls. One such development is Auriens. Opened in Chelsea in September 2021, it is part spa, part private members’ club, part live-in luxury hotel, comprising 56 apartments. Masterminded by David Meagher, an entrepreneur and real estate developer, it’s the realisation of his vision for a complex that will stand shoulder to shoulder with recent hypegarnering developments like Chelsea Barracks and The OWO, but geared exclusively towards over-50s. ‘What we offer is entirely bespoke; it’s a combination of the ambience of a private club and underlying reassurance of world-class healthcare,’ David explains. ‘There’s a rather glamorous legacy of figures like Margaret Thatcher retiring in hotels like The Ritz and Richard Harris at The Savoy, but until now there has been nothing on offer in the UK that combines that level of luxury with later living.’ Step inside Auriens and you’ll find something akin to a multi-millionpound Belgravia townhouse in terms of design, interiors and rigorous attention to detail. Indeed, many of the residents have lived in the locality for decades, but are now looking for something more adapted to the changing life needs of the third age, without compromising their usual high standards. Accordingly, Auriens is run like clockwork by a team cherry-picked from The Connaught, Claridge’s and Four Seasons. A huge selling point is the subterranean health club, which combines a sanctum-like spa with a wellness programme devised and run by some of the best names in the business. There’s a resplendent underlit pool and

a fully-equipped gym, where you’ll find Gideon Remfry – the Wellness Director of members-only, cult fitness club KX – to keep you in shape. There’s also help in the form of Aidan Goggins, a medical nutritionist and creator of the internationally acclaimed Sirtfood Diet. Afterwards, residents can retreat for some R&R in the Medispa, vitality pool or private sauna. Nor do interiors let the side down. A roster of superstar London designers such as Brady Williams and West London-based Albion Nord have ensured you can simply show up, walk in, and find that a beautifullycurated apartment awaits. Inspired to retire early? There’s more: with a plush private cinema, resplendent Culford restaurant, speakeasy bar and private wine room, Auriens has everything you might expect to find on the checklist for a young high-flyer in the City. But perhaps the most attractive offering for their target clientele is 24-hour, on-site, private healthcare. A partnership with top-rated Draycott Nursing & Care means Auriens isn’t just bluff and fancy facilities but actually provides everything an ageing community might need, wrapped up in a beautiful setting and stage-managed by the most experienced hands in high-end hospitality. Hotelier Laurence Geller is another of the figureheads pioneering the changing scene of later living in London, but with a specific aim. ‘Both my parents lived with dementia,’ he explains. ‘Having experienced this difficult and heart-wrenching process and the absence of personalised care and attention, it spurred me to found a facility that would combine world-class care with the latest cutting-edge research in Alzheimer’s and dementia.’ The result is Loveday, a private members’ club that now has three homes across west and south-west London. Like Auriens, a focus on wellbeing runs through the DNA of the design. On the surface it’s all chic townhouse with Scandi neutrals, but look closer and you’ll find marvellous age-appropriate details woven in. The building is horseshoe-shaped, because members find it easier to navigate circular layouts than long, winding corridors;

PHOTOS: SIM CANETTY-CLARK

‘Later living’ is inspiring luxury new developments – about time, says Sofia Tindall

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Retirement | PROPERTY

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the library offers books with large type, and everyday objects like chairs, plates, cutlery, door frames and handles are clearly defined so as to be distinguishable to the dementia or Alzheimer’s brain. Presiding over the Loveday kitchen is Matt Dodge, an awardwinning alumnus of The Savoy, whose daily, seasonal, threecourse menus are designed to aid brain health. Meanwhile, the resident therapists are concert hall pianists, yoga gurus and established artists. Inspired by luxury hotel concierge services like Onefinestay, the attention to personalisation is laser-like. Members partial to a sundown cocktail or White Company bedsheets will find every preference taken care of from day one, as it might be by a private butler. But there are sobering statistics behind the luxury. With the NHS pushed to breaking point over the last two years, the pandemic has overwhelmed an already struggling system of care; elderly patients have often found themselves at the bottom of the priority list, and the average UK care home has just one staff member to nine residents. ‘It’s not about blame culture,’ says Laurence. ‘Sadly, resources are really stretched.’ By sharp contrast, Loveday has a 70 per cent retention of staff and two residents to each staff member. Its mission is not just to develop better treatment but ‘ultimately find a cure for dementia’. To this end, it’s exploring the latest healthcare tech (from AI pain-locating apps to software that enhances circadian lighting) and has partnered with the University of West London to champion research – which has already resulted in the development of a unique Dementia Therapies Programme at Loveday, tailored to each individual. ‘We are always learning and improving,’ says Laurence,

ABOVE & BELOW: Loveday prides itself on legible, as well as luxury, detailing for residents living with dementia

ABOVE & LEFT: Auriens offers hotel-style facilities, service and interiors, plus top-notch healthcare

‘we want to share our knowledge to help raise care standards across the board.’ ‘Luxury later life’ developments like Auriens and Loveday are founded on medical science: that an active social life and sense of community are proven to have immeasurable mental health benefits. The state-sanctioned isolation of lockdown – effectively, for some, two years of solitary confinement – has had a terrible impact on vulnerable people who already felt isolated through age, mobility and health issues. ‘Seeing the community flourish at Auriens has been an unexpected development,’ says David. ‘Lots of our residents have made new friends and found a new lease of life. It’s a pillar of the culture here and it’s injected new purpose into a lot of our residents. The community really is the heart and soul of Auriens.’ Accordingly, he’s introduced an events programme that brings residents together for talks by world-leading photographers, recitals by fine musicians, film screenings, and more. It’s a level of cultural engagement that currently sets Auriens apart from Chelsea Barracks and The OWO. But the market is already on the move. In April, Loveday will be opening the doors on new residential homes, one in Kensington and a second in Abbey Road – where there’s a focus on outdoor space and the kitchen garden. Nor is Auriens resting on its laurels, with plans afoot to open further sites in St John’s Wood and Kensington. ‘London’s luxury market is growing at an incredible pace’ says David. ‘While demand is on the rise, however, supply is falling short. For London’s wealthiest seniors this is a time to do more rather than less: they are used to the very best and shouldn’t have to settle for less.’ So bring on our later years: thanks to these new developments, there’s never been a better time to grow old. Vive la révolution. auriens.com; lovedayandco.com  May/June 2022 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 179

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PROPERTY | Five of the Best

Homes fit for A QUEEN Escape the crowds with these regal country piles. By Amy Wakeham

HITCHIN, £15m

Hexton Manor is a handsome Grade II-listed house with eleven bedrooms and two integral flats. It’s surrounded by landscaped park and gardens with an outdoor swimming pool. Beyond that, there’s a 773-acre estate with six cottages, a converted stable block with four office units, and an outstanding shoot with sporting rights over 1,500 acres. savills.com

DERBY, £5.5m

Live your best Bridgerton life in this compact country estate in Derbyshire. The pictureperfect Georgian house has seven bedrooms and five bathrooms, and is set in verdant formal gardens, with Victorian greenhouses and a croquet pitch. The wider 168-acre estate encompasses parkland and farmland, plus four cottages. knightfrank.co.uk

SUNNINGDALE, £4.8m

A well-proportioned family home in leafy Berkshire, Titlarks Hill sits in around 1.2 acres of gardens, on a sought-after private road. It’s got five bedrooms and bathrooms, as well as six reception rooms, including an open plan kitchen and a dining room that leads out to a terrace and conservatory. There’s also an outdoor swimming pool, triple garage, and staff annex with its own entrance. hamptons.co.uk

EAST MOLESEY, £5.995m

This Georgian manor house is unapologetically splendid, with an unmatchable location just a stone’s throw from Hampton Court Palace. An exuberant four-storey gem, it has seven bedrooms and three reception rooms, all with high ceilings, stately proportions and large sash windows. It also has dreamy vistas over the park. struttandparker.com

CHIDDINGFOLD, £6.25m

The Deer Tower is a Grade II-listed property dating back to the 18th century situated at the heart of a private estate. Originally a verderer’s look-out (an officer of the Royal Office), the home features three bedrooms and three bathrooms, and is surrounded by formal ornamental gardens and 120 acres of parkland and woodland. A true fairytale location. knightfrank.co.uk

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P R O M OT I O N

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

The best of Bermondsey living in The Blackwell Collection’s stylish penthouses

IMAGES DEPICT PREVIOUS PICKLE FACTORY SHOW HOMES AND CGIS DEPICT THE PICKLE FACTORY AND BLACKWELL COLLECTION AT LONDON SQUARE BERMONDSEY, INDICATIVE ONLY. DETAILS AND PRICES CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS.

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n the heart of fashionable Bermondsey, The Blackwell Collection, a limited edition of chic warehouse-style penthouses, is about to launch with a new show home. It’s set in The Pickle Factory, the beautifully restored and converted former manufacturing home of heritage brand Branston Pickle, which is celebrating its centenary this year. With original red brick façade and Art Decostyle entrance, The Pickle Factory is a restored masterpiece at London Square Bermondsey, a new neighbourhood of converted buildings and new build homes. Set in landscaped grounds, with a garden square and courtyards, there is a concierge, gym and Co-op. New studios and gallery spaces for Tannery Arts, who work with emerging artists and will run workshops and classes for residents and local people, will add a cultural dimension later this year. The Blackwell Collection is the final edition of penthouses on the sixth and seventh floors of The Pickle Factory, featuring impressive warehouse-style open-plan living, spectacular London views and enviable terraces spanning up to circa 500 sq/ft. With the highest specification and luxurious features such as a freestanding bath, impressive dressing area, enhanced built-in wardrobes and oversized warehouse style windows to maximise light, the penthouses embrace every aspect of indulgent, stylish living across up to circa 2,029 sq/ft. Leading interior designers Honky will be unveiling a spectacular new show home to

showcase the collection in the next few weeks. A short walk away is Bermondsey Street where fashion, food and drink and culture meet. White Cube gallery, The Fashion & Textile Museum, and indie cafes, bars, restaurants and pubs can be found alongside artisan retailers. The foodie delights of Maltby Street market and Borough Market are close by, and London Bridge station is just a 12 minute walk, with good cycle and walking routes to the City and West End. Jo McDonagh, Sales and Marketing Director of London Square, said: ‘The lifestyle is incredible, with the best of London’s food and drink, culture and creative energy on your doorstep and The Blackwell Collection embodies the best of Bermondsey living.’ Two-bedroom penthouses in The Blackwell Collection are priced from £1.45m and three-bedroom penthouses from £2.4m. Contact London Square Bermondsey on 0333 666 4343; londonsquare.co.uk @londonsquaredevelopments

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Grafton Road, London, W3

£850,000

Leasehold

An elegant three-bedroom maisonette situated in the heart of Acton’s Poets corner This property is full of charm and great proportions. It feels more like a house than anything else, with its own front door on the ground floor and a large entrance hallway with plenty of storage for coats and boots. On the first floor is a large landing dividing the reception room from the kitchen and bathroom, giving the property a feeling of light and space. Also, being end of terrace, you get double aspect windows and so it is therefore lighter than your standard property. The large drawing room/reception is at the front of the house whilst the eat-in kitchen, with space for a family kitchen table in the middle, works really well and let’s not forget the bathroom; the proportions of which make this a standout room. The top floor is where you will find the three bedrooms, including the master with en suite bathroom. This is an incredible property, with plenty of original features and is finished to a high standard throughout. Approximately 134 sq m (1,450 sq ft).

020 3598 0808 agentandhomes.co.uk

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Norfolk Mansions, Prince of Wales Drive, SW11 £1,450,000

A simply stunning two/three bedroom flat on the ground floor of this Victorian mansion block with views over Battersea Park. The flat has recently undergone a complete refurbishment to the highest possible specification. There is a bright, westerly facing, open-plan kitchen reception room which provide access to a patio garden and a second reception room that could also be used as a third bedroom. The master bedroom has built-in storage and an en-suite shower room and the second double bedroom also has built-in storage and is served by a separate shower room. 3 Bedrooms / 1 Reception Room / 2 Bathrooms (1 en suite) / Garden (not demised) Size: 1,001 sq ft / Resident Parking Permit / Leasehold to include a share of the freehold

Contact us on 020 3876 0280 to discuss selling or letting your home. facebook /radstockproperty

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Derbyshire’s dedicated sales and acquisition agents.

Derbyshire’s dedicated sales and acquisition agents.

BRIGHTGATE HOUSE Brightgate, Derbyshire. An attractive stone-built period house with a good range of outbuildings set in 4.75 acres of garden and grazing land. Five reception rooms, five bedrooms, three bathrooms, study, kitchen/breakfast room, off road parking, garage, outbuildings, modern barn, sauna, hard tennis court, lovely gardens, vegetable garden, pasture land. E-rating- Band F Guide price: £1,295,000 subject to contract. Viewing: strictly by appointment with Edward Caudwell 07766 565893

Tel:01629 01629 810018 Tel: 810018 Email edward@caudwellandco.com • www.caudwellandco.com Country && Townhouse Caudwell Co.indd 1Full Page Ad April 22.indd 1

Tel: 01629 810018

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Tuesday 10th May 2022, 1.30-6.30pm Admission Free The Chelsea Old Town Hall, Kings Road, London SW3 5EE

LOOKING TO MOVE? Meet leading independent estate agents, who can provide objective, balanced advice and show you some of the finest property to buy, rent or invest, in and outside the capital, from pied-à-terre’s to country estates.

For more information, contact Robert at The London Office on 020 7839 0888 or visit www.londonandcountryproperty.co.uk

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High Street, Great Abington – 3 miles from Whittlesford Train Station £3,500,000 A handsome and imposing detached Grade II listed country residence sympathetically restored incorporating a wealth of fine architectural features extending to about 8600 sq.ft., in addition the house has a restored coach house (1625 sq.ft.) as well as a pair of self contained apartments (2750 sq.ft.) The property also benefits from garages, stable block, storage barn and enclosed yard. The grounds in all extend to approximately 19.05 acres and incorporate a deep front garden with mature trees and shrubs, formal gardens principally laid to lawn together with mature trees and shrubs, enclosed by fencing with seating areas adjoining the River Granta, Fenced paddocks with again a number of fine specimen trees. Additional vehicular gated access from the Linton Road and woodland. Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

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Mandeville Farm, Low Road, Burwell – 4 miles from Newmarket Train Station Prices from £835,000 Mandeville Farm is a small and exclusive collection of just five traditional farmhouse and barn-style homes set against a delightful backdrop of rolling countryside. Each home has been thoughtfully designed and provides generous and flexible accommodation arranged over 2 floors. Only 2 plots remaining which include and 4 and 5 bedroom link detached, both with generous, enclosed rear gardens, double garaging and so conveniently placed for access to Cambridge and major routes. Ready to occupy. Contact: Christina Ballands | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | christina.ballands@cheffins.co.uk

Tinkers Lane, Kingston – 5 miles from Shepreth Train Station Prices from £895,000 The Barns at Kingston, surrounded by the delightful Cambridgeshire countryside, are a perfect blend of stylish contemporary living whilst retaining the charm of their former agricultural use. The Barns form an exclusive new development of just two properties offering generous accommodation with a high degree of flexibility and an outstanding specification. The properties both benefit from allocated parking areas as well as generous outside space to enjoy, all in the charming village of Kingston, perfectly situated for access into Cambridge and major routes. Contact: Christina Ballands | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | christina.ballands@cheffins.co.uk

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Beaufort Place, Thompsons Lane, Cambridge – 1.5 miles from Cambridge Train Station £550,000 A cleverly designed and well proportioned two bedroom ground floor apartment providing versatile living accommodation together with its own private enclosed covered terrace, enjoying breath taking views over the River Cam and the delightful grounds of Magdalene College on the opposite bank. Beaufort Place is a prestigious and most desirable development occupying a stunning and quite remarkable position so conveniently placed within a short walk/ cycle ride of the historic city centre and a vast range of amenities including shops and restaurants. Contact: Martin Walshe | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | martin.walshe@cheffins.co.uk

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Comberton Road, Barton – 4 miles from Cambridge Train Station £2,200,000 A most attractive and individual six bedroom detached family home, extending to 2750 sq ft originally built in 1960 with Arts and Crafts influences and located in Barton’s Conservation Area at the heart of this picturesque village just 3.5 miles south-west of Cambridge city centre. The house enjoys a delightful position overlooking the village green and sits within its own landscaped grounds extending to about 2/3 of an acre, with a range of outbuildings including a double garage, summerhouse/store and greenhouse. The house has a range of energy efficient features including an air-source heat pump, solar PV and double glazing. Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

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St Thomas Street, Lymington, SO41 9NA 9

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“Show stopping” aptly describes this fine Grade II* listed property extending to over 8000 sq.ft. of carefully restored accommodation including five stunning reception rooms, nine bedrooms (with six suites) and ambitious design rarely seen. Monmouth House combines grandeur and a history of nearly 375 years with a bespoke interior of contemporary design finished to the highest quality. There is a private gated entrance with extensive off street parking and a detached coach house with self-contained apartment. It is one of the most important and prominent historic houses of Lymington, situated opposite St. Thomas Church in the heart of our Georgian town which is famous for world renowned sailing and yachting facilities and the playground of the south coast. Approximately 8,622 sq ft (801 sq m) including coach house. Please contact the Lymington office to arrange a viewing

74 High Street, Lymington, SO41 9AL

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ALFRED

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LAST WORD Which path will you take?

Tales of our Time Michael Hayman on taking the road less travelled

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hange is the everpresent journeyman through the ages, but often getting it right is something easier said than done. Each generation is different to the one that went before. But while for many centuries this might be best characterised as evolution, recent years have taken on more of the feeling of a full-time revolution. Transformations in technology have brought with them immense accelerations in the demands on our lives in the way that we live, work and even relax. I heard one entrepreneur describe this as living in a world of dog years. Each new year is worth seven old ones. This year, the private bank and wealth

manager Coutts marks its 330th birthday and it’s fair to say that it has lived through quite a few chapters of change along the path of time. Its founder Thomas Coutts was described as ‘a man of singular judgement, with a warm and compassionate heart’. That was then but it also maybe a clue for now to help explain a culture that endures at Coutts. Last year the bank became a B Corp, which brings with it the goal of meeting high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability. It’s part of a new way of thinking in the business world, which follows the idea that companies can and must be a force for good because it is not only the right thing to do, but it is also how you emerge fit for the future.

When I interviewed Coutts’ CEO Peter Flavel (below right) for my podcast Change Makers, he made the case that this was the essential mindset because, ‘If you think we’ve had enough change, you’ve not seen anything yet.’ There is something of the entrepreneur in that statement and the freedom to see the future as an opportunity not an obstacle. Reflecting on his own career he said that, ‘Every time I’ve been faced with paths in the road – one that was safer and the other more interesting – I have always chosen the more interesting, riskier one.’ Change is always difficult. But often the difficult path is the more rewarding one, especially when it comes to future-proofing your brand and holding it and yourself to the highest of standards. 

READ French Braid by Anne Tyler – the Pulitzer Prizewinning author returns with a new tale of life in Baltimore. WATCH Ozark, expect a gripping part two of the final season (netflix.com). LISTEN to Peter Flavel speak on Change Makers (changemakers.works). TRY Wild swimming. Buckland Park Lake is a refreshing option in Surrey (bucklandparklake.co.uk).

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TA L K I N G P O I N T S

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Time does not respect machines, or the desire to be quick. It exists to measure the margin of victory in a sport where precision is paramount. The Bremont WR-22 is the first official timepiece designed in collaboration with Williams Racing, drawing on a shared British heritage and dedication to engineering expertise.

Bremont.indd 1

20/04/2022 13:37


Rolex.indd 1

28/04/2022 13:32


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