A LIFE IN BALANCE
HOW TO AGE WELL From hair loss to hormones
ROYALTY AND RELIGION WITH GILBERT & GEORGE
HAYLEY ATWELL
MAY/ JUN 2023 £4.95
LOVE MATCH Cam Norrie’s Wimbledon dreams
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SUMMER
ON SQUARING UP TO TOM CRUISE IN THE NEW MISSION IMPOSSIBLE Cover-V4-LC.indd 2
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A Classique Breguet watch is the exact opposite of programmed obsolescence. It is designed not only to masterfully tell but also withstand the test of time. Make History with us.
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JEWELS THAT TELL TIME
LONDON, 171 NEW BOND STREET, 0207 907 8800 LONDON, THE FINE JEWELLERY ROOM HARRODS, 0207 907 8899 HARRYWINSTON.COM
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F A M I L Y
S T O R Y
Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear Raindance
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Contents
MAY JUN 2023
COLUMNS 30
32 208
THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B is committed to her Oura ring THE RURBANIST Cath Kidston LAST WORD Michael Hayman comes over all 007 when it comes to watches
STYLE 37 38 40 42 44 46 48 51
TAILOR MADE A slick summer look THE EDIT Style news TREND Social season’s here THE MAGPIE Jewellery news WELL GROOMED Men’s style MY STYLE Skincare guru Irene Forte FOUNDERS KEEPERS A gathering of fabulous female founders TICK TOCK ON THE CLOCK Simon de Burton on some tantalising timepieces
HEALTH & WELLBEING 57 58
60 62 64 66 68
DIVE IN Take the cold water plunge BODY LANGUAGE And then go for some hot spring action BODY & SOUL The experts weigh in on your gut health questions SPA TREK Detoxing in Devon THE SCOOP Charlotte Cole takes a wee peek at her pelvic floor TAKE TEN No make-up make-up BEAUTY BUZZ Sandal season
CULTURE 71
72 76 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96
100
98
BUCKLE UP The Southbank Centre’s Planet Summer heats up YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE The ultimate events guide THE CULTURAL CALENDAR What to see, read and do ALL IN A DAY’S WORK Ruth Wilson takes to the stage for 24 hours MAKE IT RAIN A Pre-Raphaelite woodland glade at Chelsea Flower Show ARTIST’S STUDIO Freddy Paske THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey rubs up to some royals THE CONSERVATIONIST James Wallace speaks candidly about experiencing loss and a changing NHS ROAD TEST The Dacia Duster LITTLE GREEN BOOK Lisa Grainger meets the inspirational head of sustainabilty at Polestar, Fredrika Klarén GOOD NEWS Feel-good stories to give you hope SCARFES BAR Writer Abi Morgan uses herself as an emotional subject
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Contents
MAY JUN 2023
FEATURES 100
108 111 114
ALL’S WELL WITH ATWELL How does it feel to square up to Tom Cruise? Lucy Cleland finds out from our cover star Hayley Atwell LOVE MATCH Olivia Emily meets Wimbledon hopeful Cameron Norrie THE POWER OF CLAY Florence St George was healed by pottery. She tells Amy Wakeham about her new book GILBERT & GEORGE The artists talk to Maryam Eisler about royalty, religion and leaving a legacy with their new centre
THE AESTHETIC GUIDE 121
How to age well now: Annabel Jones brings you 45 pages of advice and expertise
INTERIORS 167
170 172 174 176
CASE STUDY Miriam Frowein’s unconventional home DESIGN NOTES Al-fresco allure SUSTAINABLE TREND Airyfairy interiors done right by the planet DESIGN MOMENTS Theres Hoyas EXPERT IDEAS Tablescaping
HOTELS & TRAVEL 179
186 188
MAKING STRIDES African tourism is booming and sustainably minded TRAVEL NEWS Lauren Ho delivers the dreamiest new destinations CANALSIDE COOL Amsterdam done right – and the grown-up way
FOOD & DRINK 191
194 195
WHAT A TART! Kathy Kordalis’s Mediterranean summer medley GASTRO GOSSIP Food news DESTINATION: DINNER Battersea – your new foodie hotspot
PROPERTY
HOUSE OF THE MONTH An opulent Italianate apartment 200 LET’S MOVE TO... A landmark London development 202 FIVE OF THE BEST Waterfront homes 197
REGULARS 18 24 196
EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS STOCKISTS
ON THE COVER Hayley Atwell wears coat, top and trousers, Chloé; 18ct gold hoops, Tiffancy & Co TEAM Fashion director: Nicole Smallwood; Photographer: Rachell Smith; Make-up: Florrie White @ Bryant Artists using Westman Atelier; Hair: Leigh Keates @ The Wall Group; Video: Tracer Ital @ Adrenalin Photographic; Fashion assistants: April McCarthy, Lara-Lily Hurd; Photographer’s Assistant: Cam Smith, Ethan Humphries
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I
Editor’s LETTER
first interviewed Hayley Atwell ten years ago. Back then, she told me she was gunning to be a Hollywood leading lady – well, Hayley, you can’t get more Hollywood than starring opposite Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible. The seventh instalment hits our screens this July and promises to be more nuanced, emotional and – indeed – funnier than previously (plus with the most extreme stunts to date). You sense this is pretty much down to Hayley’s becoming a part of
EDITOR’S PICKS
SUPPORT I discovered local charity, West London Welcome, which is doing amazing work for refugees. westlondonwelcome.com
the Mission family. I speak to her on page 100 to debunk some myths, chat about her innate skill for ‘drifting’, and of course, to find out what it’s like to work with one of the world’s biggest movie stars. Our whole issue, in fact, is fi lled with women kicking ass in the arts. The hottest tickets in town are to catch Ruth Wilson on stage for a full 24 hours, playing the same scene over and over in The Second Woman at The Young Vic, or Lily Allen as Katurian in Martin McDonagh’s The Pillowman, a role that has previously only been played by men (p76). Elsewhere, Florence St George, who, when beset by the most debilitating post-natal depression, found solace, comfort and then a new career in pottery, has written a book about healing through craft (p111). And if you’re looking to add to your reading list this summer, Belinda Bamber recommends the latest fiction from female authors on page 79. With all that going on, you’d be forgiven for forgetting that there’s another big event this month: the coronation. Ed Vaizey didn’t bag an invitation but tells us how to get up close and personal to some royal action with two magnificent exhibitions (p88). The artists Gilbert & George didn’t forget either. They’ve been busily crafting banners 114 in celebration of the new king (they’re fans), as well as throwing open the gates of their new centre in east London. Photographer and author Maryam Eisler interviews and photographs them exclusively for C&TH on page 114. More of a republican? Not to worry, Tessa Dunthorne will have you reaching for your Smythson Panama to earmark this season’s best events in our ultimate guide to summer. Don’t miss The Daylesford Summer Festival and Planted Country, both of which we are partnering with this year (p72). And if Wimbledon is top of your sporting hit list, we’ve had a chat with our best British hopeful, Cameron Norrie. He seems cool, calm and collected (p108). And for those who think all this activity sounds far too hectic, and you’d prefer some time out, may I suggest a few days at Yeotown in Devon (p62). You’ll come back ready to face the social onslaught. It’s all in the balance.
READ Recommended by Rory Stewart on The Rest is Politics podcast, Chika Unigwe’s latest is on my summer reading list
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PACK More space? Yes, please! The Sympatico CarryOn from Briggs & Riley promises 22 percent more packing capacity
WEAR Designer Julia Clancy is the queen of the turban, an accessory I can just about get my head around
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RM 07-04 In-house skeletonised automatic winding calibre 50-hour power reserve (± 10%) Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium Function selector Shock-resistant to 5000 g’s 36 grams including Velcro® strap Case in Quartz TPT®
A Racing Machine On The Wrist Richard Mille.indd 1
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Elegance is an attitude Jennifer Lawrence
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LONGINES DOLCEVITA
Longines boutique 411 Oxford Street, London shop online www.longines.co.uk
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CONTRIBUTORS
Majesty in the South African mountains, p182
Hanging out with Gilbert & George, p114
The latest tweakments, p121
What’s on your wrist, p51
LIZZIE POOK
MARYAM EISLER
ANNABEL JONES
SIMON DE BURTON
What are you most looking forward to this summer? Nowhere else is better than London in the sunshine. I’m looking forward to walks along the river, lazy Sundays in pub gardens, and the hopefulness that’s in the air when the evenings are long and balmy. How will you celebrate the coronation? At a local street party, sipping on punch and watching the neighbourhood kids demolish the cake table. Favourite entertaining recipe? Madeleine Shaw’s sticky Asian prawns with quinoa and peanuts – always a hit when it comes to BBQ sides. I’ll roll out my mum’s retro brown bread ice cream for dessert. Summer beauty must-have? Murad’s Oil & Pore Control Mattifier is a feat of wizardry. It contains factor 40 SPF, sits perfectly under make-up and is so brilliantly stubborn that it banishes every hint of oil.
What are you most looking forward to this summer? ‘Vivre d’amour et d’eau fraiche’! I will also be researching my upcoming photographic journey to Namibia, a dream come true. Ghost towns laid deep under the sand, the Skeleton Coast’s dramatic vistas and the unique solitary beauty of the Sossusvlei salt and clay plan, surrounded by its imposing red dunes… How will you celebrate the coronation? With a pint of Pimms and a side of strawberries and cream. Favourite summer entertaining recipe? A chilled carafe of Persian sour cherry sherbet with a hint of rosewater on the rocks and a splash of Monkey 47… Summer beauty must-have? I like a clean fresh look: a dash of Westman Atelier’s Squeaky Clean liquid lip balm, a natural cream bronzer (I particularly like Saie’s Sun Melt), and Moroccan Savon Noir body scrub.
What are you most looking forward to this summer? I’ll be using my time off to read books, take walks and soak up the company of my twins before they head off to university. How will you celebrate the coronation? My street is having an official party so I’ll be clinking glasses with the neighbours while keeping an eye on the royal fashion looks. Favourite summer entertaining recipe? You can’t go wrong with pavlova heaped with fresh strawberries and cream – it looks far more impressive than it is to make (I use Nigella’s recipe). Summer beauty must-haves? Victoria Beckham’s new EyeWear in Macaron (sugar pink) and Sunflower (yellow) will be my go-to pop of colour. Dior Forever Velvet Veil is my new favourite skin tint – it’s incredibly sheer.
What are you most looking forward to this summer? Firstly, spending as much time as possible in Corfu; secondly, heading to the Himalayas with Indian motorcycle manufacturer Royal Enfield to test its (top secret) new adventure machine... How will you celebrate the coronation? If the sun is shining, I’ll be outside at my Dartmoor home, fixing fences, tending the veg garden, walking dogs or mucking about with some old vehicle. In which case, I’ll be following on Radio 4. Favourite summer entertaining recipe? Barbecue accompanied by Greek salad, pesto rice made to my wife Helen’s personal specifications, and plenty of cold rosé wine. Summer grooming must-have? A bath in the Ionian sea followed by a squirt of Dior Eau Sauvage (original version, as advertised by Alain Delon in 1966).
WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s picks and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter countryandtown
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LUCY CLELAND EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM FEATURES ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER & RUBY FEATHERSTONE FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY ONLINE ASSISTANT MARTHA DAVIES SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE ZOEY PHOON CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER MIA BIAGIONI ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH ACCOUNT DIRECTORS PANDORA LEWIS, SERENA KNIGHT DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN SENIOR DIGITAL SALES EXECUTIVE AISLING WHITE SALES SUPPORT, OFFICE & JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, LAUREN HO, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK
THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2023 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.
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COLUMN
The GOOD LIFE
Caviar and champagne? Don’t mind if I do, says Alice B-B
S
‘It was the PERFECT lunch to celebrate nothing in PARTICULAR’
PAGHETTI CARBONARA… would probably be my last supper. But for my Dad, it would definitely involve caviar. So as a treat, I bunked off on a Friday and met him for lunch at the new Petrossian Café in South Kensington (petrossian.fr). The family-run French institution, which first brought caviar to Paris in 1920, has now created a caviar laboratory on the outskirts of London from where its caviarologist oversees the preparation and maturation of the eggs to be served in the cafe, and delivered to restaurants around the UK. Dad and I merrily sat at a corner table, drank champagne and sampled all the different types of caviar – it obviously took a lot of tasting to decide that our favourites were ossetra, with its briny nutty flavour, and of course beluga, with the biggest eggs and creamy texture. It was the perfect lunch to celebrate nothing in particular. And a return visit – to check on the caviarologist’s work – is in the offing. SOUND FAMILIAR? You go to an exercise class, sweat your socks off, wake up the next day with… a stiff neck, pulled muscle, bad back, migraine. So rather than getting crock in a class, I’m going specific. Club Health specific (clubhealth.uk). Physio-lead personal training in chic, secret spaces in either Notting Hill or Chelsea, addressing past injuries while future-proofing my body. Founder and physio Luis Ribeiro (who has the longest, glossiest beard I’ve ever seen – I have to sit on my hands so as not to reach out and give it a quick stroke), started Club Health when he couldn’t find the right rehab training to strengthen his patients’ bodies. So Luis created a space where everything is joined up; physio, personal trainer and Pilates instructor communicate regularly about their clients, to deliver a body that supports you for life. Two sessions with Luis and I’m in. Though I may get expelled for random beard stroking! I’VE CAPITULATED… Despite being a wellbeing editor, I’ve resisted using wearable trackers. They always felt like things Silicon Valley eternal-life seeking, god-complex folk wore. But I can’t ignore wellness experts I respect who are sporting an assortment of wrist bands, rings, glucose monitors… So I’ve leapt in. A month ago I slid the Oura ring on my finger and so far we’re a happy couple. Things that I’ve always suspected affect my sleep or physical state are now proven. Just one glass of alcohol or a late dinner, and my heart rate doesn’t settle ’til the early hours. If I do a hard work out, I sleep better. I’m fresh as a daisy if I maintain the same bed and wake up time. My Oura can get a little bossy, with messages like, ‘Maybe time to stretch your legs?’ if I’ve been sitting at my desk too long. But overall, I’m really impressed. And it feels sensible to have long term data, so I can see if things go awry. The love affair is going so well, I may be accused of being a b-Oura. (ouraring.com) n
THIS MONTH I’LL BE...
OBSESSED with my new skincare find – Reome’s Active Recovery Broth (reome.com). VISITING the new Paint & Plates show by artist Suzy Murphy (9-25 May, lyndseyingram.com). READING The Modern Maverick by life coach Ed Haddon the book that might change my life (haddoncoaching.com).
ILLUSTRATION BY MEI MEI, @MEIMEI_2503
A hundred years after it introduced caviar to Paris , the new South Ken Petrossian Café is a must-visit
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INTERVIEW
The RURBANIST
Cath Kidston on skipping art school, building brands, and trying to make do with less
What’s bringing you joy right now? Launching
C.Atherley, my new brand. There is nothing as exciting as building a brand from scratch and seeing it come alive. Whose mind do you wish you could change? Well, I guess it has to be Putin right now… Advice you’d give to your 15-year-old self?
C.Atherley started in Cath’s greenhouse, where she was inspired by the breadth of fragrances in their leaves, the beauty of the plants, and their healing properties
I don’t think I would give myself any advice, as life is full of surprises and we tend to work things out as we go along. How do you achieve a balanced life? With difficulty. When I left my old business, I filled my home life up again and became more social after all those years of work. But now I am back at work I seem to have everything on the go. What does sustainability mean to you? Less. Trying to have less of everything and having it at the top of your mind. It’s very tricky for my generation to adapt after so many years of consumerism but I’m definitely changing. Best life hack you can share with us? Dr Beckmann’s carpet cleaner – dab it straight on any red wine on your tablecloth and the stain magically disappears. Works, too, on my husband’s shirts, or basically anything else you could think of. Where do you go to get away from it all? Spetses in Greece. We have a small home there. I love being by the sea and it’s a very relaxed place. I can now work from there with the internet so it’s easy to spend time there without feeling guilty. Your greatest failure? So many. Probably not sticking with art school. I left to go back to work. I wish I had studied a textile degree. I have also failed to learn to use Photoshop, which is such a disadvantage in my business. Your greatest triumph? Creating a recognisable brand. Your epitaph would read… Always look on the bright side of life. Discover Cath’s new geranium-based beauty brand C.Atherley at c-atherley.com n
TUNING INTO Times Radio. READING Food for Life: The New Science of Eating Well by Tim Spector. (Jonathan Cape, £22). SINGER ON REPEAT Bob Dylan. GUILTY PLEASURE Bridgerton. DISH Spaghetti vongole. RESTAURANT 6 Portland Road. My local.
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; © GEM HALL
QUICK FIRE FAVOURITES...
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In celebration of the Coronation of His Majesty King Charles and Her Majesty Queen Camilla
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STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy
Tailor Made
Sweet florals and slick tailoring are a match made in heaven for the incoming social season. Dress, £395; jacket, £425. reallywildclothing.com
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STYLE | Shopping
The
EDIT
Dive into summer style. By Mariella Tandy
BREATHE IN Delicious scents for the home
Covetable new collab alert: & Other Stories has collaborated with Sindiso Khumalo, the South African brand known for its colour, prints and sustainable textiles. The pieces are inspired by 19th century portraits of women from Africa and the African diaspora, and features puff shoulders, subtle peplums, ruffled hems and voluminous sleeves, as well as crafty details like crochet and embroidery. Jacket, £165; shorts, £75. stories.com
STORY OF A MAISON
1 Carrière Frères Sichuan Pepper candle, £52. carrierefreres.com 2 Perfumer H Woodland candle, £55. perfumerh.com 3 Bamford Diffuser, £120; fragrances, £25. bamford.com
PACK IT IN
South American resortwear brand, Casa Raki and taste-making photographer and style editor, Candice Lake, have come together for an ultracool summer capsule. Think luxe linens, swimwear and packable separates to cater to all of your holiday needs. Lara dress, £275. matchesfashion.com
The elegant, sculptural lines that are the signature of Dior are celebrated in a new three-volume photography book, featuring exquisite images captured by Sarah Moon. Each volume depicts an era of the fashion house: under Christian Dior (1946-1958); under Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano and Raf Simons (1958-2015); and under Dior’s current artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri (2015present). A book to treasure, £110. dior.com
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BAG WITH A BACKSTORY
PENHALIGON’S Highgrove Bouquet, £160 with a donation to the Prince’s Trust. harrods.com
MONTBLANC Patron of Art Homage to Victoria & Albert Limited Edition 8, £POA. montblanc.com
RADLEY The Coronation wristlet, £139 radley.co.uk ANNOUSHKA Crown charm in 18ct gold, £4,500. annoushka.com
When is a bag not a bag? When it’s the product of a woman’s vision to create a brand that is not only enviably stylish but also ethically unrivalled. A visit to Amanda Navaian’s shop Marici in South Kensington is worth it not only to choose a bag that will last a lifetime (each one is made from pinatex), but to immerse yourself in the storytelling of a brand you’d be proud to carry. From £650. houseofmarici.com
BREMONT MBII King Charles III watch, £4,495. bremont.com
SWIM DEEP
Medina is a luxury women’s swimwear brand that designs long-lasting pieces, expertly engineered to fit and enhance the female body. Founded by ex-Celine pattern cutter Lou Medina, the brand intends to craft suits with the structure of tailoring and the comfort of a second skin. Wave bikini, £310. medinaswimwear.com
ON THE RADAR
Get your coronation kicks
PRAGNELL Antique Victorian snipe brooch, £4,900. pragnell.co.uk
YOKO LONDON Pearl cascade earrings, £POA. yokolondon.com
NYETIMBER King’s Coronation LimitedEdition Classic Cuvée MultiVintage, £39.50. nyetimber.com
LINLEY Trinket box, £295. davidlinley.com
BOODLES Coronation ring, £POA. boodles.com
MANOLO BLAHNIK Wilfo men’s loafers, £1,045. manoloblahnik.com
FLOWER POWER
As part of the celebrations for its 25th anniversary, Chantecaille has introduced a new menu of soothing botanical cosmetic treatments to its dedicated Beauty Suite in Harrods. Known for well-formulated and high performing plant-based skincare, the new treatments include the Golden Revitalising Eye Lift, which helps to promote lympthatic drainage, increase blood circulation and eliminate toxins. From £60, chantecaille.com May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 39
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STYLE | Trend
HIGH SOCIETY
Get set for the social season with these vibrant summer outfits
VINTAGE
INVEST
RENT
ASPINAL OF LONDON Min Paris bag, £395. aspinaloflondon.com
DIOR @ HEWI Suit, £1,009. hardlyeverwornit.com
REJINA PYO @ CLOAN Belt, rent from £36. cloan.uk
LONGINES DolceVita watch, £3,900. longines.co.uk
EMILIO DE LA MORENA @ MWHQ Rainbow Dress, rent from £16. mywardrobehq.com
CHANEL @ CUDONI Brooch, £270. cudoni.com
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Blazer, £2,570; top, £2,400; skirt, £2,350; heels, £950 brunellocucinelli.com
HERMÈS @ SOTT Silk scarf, £279. wearesott.com
TORY BURCH Bag, rent from £69. byrotation.com
LK BENNETT Eileen fascinator, £99 lkbennett.com
LE STER @ COVETT Earrings, rent from £24. cove.tt
SUZANNAH Sacramento dress, £1,450. suzannah.com
BOTTEGA VENETA @ HEWI Sandals, £448. hardlyeverwornit.com
NODALETO Shoes, £550. matchesfashion.com
LULU GUINNESS @ HURR Clutch, rent from £45. hurrcollective.com
FOR STOCKISTS PLEASE SEE P196
JW ANDERSON @ MWHQ Skirt, £180. mywardrobehq.com
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STYLE | Jewellery BIRD IN THE EAR
Bird on a Pearl is the reinterpretation of the emblematic Bird on a Rock brooch, originally created by Tiffany’s renowned designer Jean Schlumberger. First created by the jeweller in 1965, his signature bird comes perched some of the world’s rarest natural pearls. £POA, tiffany.com
ITALIAN ICE
The Magpie
Italian jeweller Recarlo’s designs are dreamy contemporary interpretations of classic jewels. The heart is a key symbol for the house and has become a signature part of many designs, such as this necklace, bracelet and ring from the Anniversary Love collection. Graduated contrarié necklace, bracelet and ring, £POA. recarlo.com
Sparkle with the latest droolworthy gems, says Mariella Tandy
ANIMAL MAGIC
Take inspiration from the natural world
BLOOMING LOVELY
The jeweller’s beautiful new additions to the ForgetMe-Not collection celebrate the silhouette of its namesake bloom, through delicate jewels in an array of colours and styles, including necklaces and cocktail rings. £POA, harrywinston.com
BEACH BUMS
TICK TOCK
For summer, Raymond Weil revisits its Toccata collection of watches with two new styles. The range celebrates the artistic and musical spirit at the heart of the watch brand’s history and DNA, which has always been inspired by music. £895, raymond-weil.co.uk
‘I was dreaming of summer and the beach when I designed this collection,’ says Jessica McCormack of her new Beaches range. ‘It really is the embodiment of my ultimate holiday jewellery wish list that hadn’t yet existed. I never felt comfortable with the idea of wearing a classic pearl necklace myself, so I designed one I would wear – slightly askew, with flashes of olive green, and of course, diamonds.’ From £3,800, jessicamccormack.com
1 JESSIE WESTERN Turquoise Power necklace, £349. jessiewestern.com 2 TESSA PACKARD French bulldog earrings, £1,800. tessapackard.com 3 ADLER Tangram 18ct gold and diamond changeable bracelet, £POA. adler.ch 4 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lucky Spring bracelet, £4,950. vancleefarpels.com
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STYLE | Men’s
ANNIVERSARY ADDITIONS
Breitling has revisited its Premier range on its 80th anniversary, introducing six new models with an updated, heritageinspired design and dial shades in salmon, blue, green, black and cream plus an 18ct red gold watch. From £7,150, breitling.com
STYLE, SHAVE & SMOKE
CARE AND REPAIR
Mr Porter has joined forces with The Seam to offer a repair and alterations service, bringing you closer to a community of trusted experts on your doorstep and giving your favourite garments the five-star treatment and new life they deserve. mrporter.theseam.uk
Well Groomed
Matt Thomas has all the style news to look suave this summer
Follow the A-listers and head to The Bulgari Hotel Spa to indulge in its Gentleman’s Signature Experience, which begins with a cut and style by the barber, followed by a wet shave and grooming advice and finally a trip to the Edward Sahakian cigar shop for a smoke and tipple of your choice. £220, bulgarihotels.com
SUMMER TIME HUES Look colourfully cool as the heat rises…
LOVE, SET, MATCH
WHEN TOMMY MET SHAWN
Get set for the summer social season with Purdey’s elegant SS23 collection by creative director Simon Holloway, with touch-me soft ultralight fabrics like this fine cashmere and linen cardigan – perfect for spectating in style. £1,200, purdey.com
Tommy Hilfiger and singer Shawn Mendes have partnered to produce the Tommy X Shawn Classics Reborn collection, with a focus on pre-90s prep styling and an emphasis on recycled and innovative materials uk.tommy.com
IN THE SWIM
Dive right in
David Gandy Swim shorts, £55. davidgandywellwear.com
1 SCOTCH & SODA Embroidered print twill shirt, £215. scotch-soda.com 2 HOUSE OF BRUAR Men’s contrast collar T-zip, £49.95. houseofbruar.com
Vilebrequin x Woolmark Marley shorts, £220. vilebrequin.com Love Brand Elephant Palace coral trunks, £150. lovebrand.com
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3 AT.KOLLEKTIVE Isaac Reina for At.Kollektive, £350. atkollektive.com Orlebar Brown Standard Solo Fantasy shorts, £225. mrporter.com
4 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Gloss blue gradient sunglasses, £225. viviennewestwood.com
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STYLE | Q&A
of trainers (usually Asics) and plain swimwear (I love Eres). Favourite accessories for a finishing touch? I’m very
into gold jewellery at the moment; I like stacking and wearing different earrings in each ear or having an asymmetric jewellery style (I love Venyx World). And I carry a cute bag – I really like Destree’s bags at the moment. What would you wear on a night out? A pair of
MY STYLE Peeking into the wardrobe of skincare expert Irene Forte What’s your daily uniform? A pair of high-waisted flared trousers (jeans, cords, tailored suit trousers or even a colourful print). Depending on the trouser style, I match them with a light floral print –or a more masculine cut – shirt. I also love a tailored suit. I always pair my outfits with platform heels. Tod’s has rubber sole boots that are amazing in the winter; Castañer wedges are fab in the summer. Who’s your style crush? My great friends Petra Palumbo and Annina Pfuel are always amazingly put together. What do you always pack for your holidays? For a summer holiday,
I would never leave without an array of my products (almond cleansing milk, helichrysum toner, olive eye cream, hibiscus serum, lavender face cream and hibiscus night cream are a must). I also pack Castañer wedges; Vibi Gyms by Vibi Venezia; Moscot sunglasses (I have the Zev Sun in a couple of colours); a La Veste towel mini dress; a few pairs of With Nothing Underneath’s linen shorts and shirt sets; Agua by Agua Bendita or Saloni ankle length, waisted dresses; Lucas Hugh activewear; a pair
high waisted flared trousers, with a nice shirt or a silk loose-fitting blazer (usually Galvan), some platforms (usually Aquazzura), some fun jewellery, and a cute clutch. Favourite under-theradar labels? I’m not sure
they’re all under the radar, but some of my favourite at the moment include: The Deck London (for tailored or off-the-peg suits), With Nothing Underneath (for shirts), Luisa Beccaria (for something more romantic and ethereal), La Veste (for something fun), Destrée (for great work to evening looks or bags). Timeless or trend-led?
I’m not such a follower of trends. I like timeless clothing and always wear the same cuts which suit my body type, regardless of the current trend. Style cheats/hacks? Going from the office to a night out, I tend to swap my wedges for an Aquazzura platform; I then just add a bit of lipstick or a smokey eye; I swap my laptop backpack for a clutch and bulk up on the jewellery. ireneforteskincare.co.uk n
1 With Nothing Underneath linen shirt, £100 and shorts, £60. withnothingunderneath.com 2 Eres Effigie swimsuit, £365. eresparis.com 3 Irene Forte Almond cleansing milk, £85. ireneforteskincare. co.uk 4 Castañer Carina espadrilles, £160. castaner. com 5 Moscot Zev Sun round sunglasses, £325. moscot.com 6 Destree Gunther bag, £502. destree. com 7 Venyx Oseanyx stud earrings, £1,440. venyxworld.com 8 Agua by Agua Bendita Otoño Margarita dress, €620. aguabyaguabendita.com 9 Aquazzura Sundance Plateau 140, £660. aquazzura.com 10 The Deck London lemon double breasted jacket, £1,295. thedecklondon.com
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STYLE | Social Rebecca Cox
Philippa Thackeray and Roz Wikeley
Lucinda Chambers, Farah Kabir and Jane Shepherdson
Alice Edwards and Alex Carello
FOUNDERS KEEPERS
Serena Hood and Rae Feather
Lucy Cleland and Awon Golding
Celebrating female entrepreneurs
Joanna Jensen
Whether you’re a fan of International Women’s Day or not, there’s never a bad time to be had when a group of extraordinary women get in the room together. Therefore, C&TH and Paper London were delighted to welcome some of our sparkiest entrepreneurs to The Hari hotel in Knightsbridge for an invigorating and illuminating panel talk. Questioning Jane Shepherdson, Lucinda Chambers and Farah Hanx about their experiences as women in business, prompted some brilliant interrogation about what it means to be a female entrepreneur. Given that female-founded brands barely get awarded any of that venture capital money swashing around, the conclusion was that there’s still a huge disparity. And so, we guess, IWD still has an important function. The real celebration happens when we don’t need it any more.
Ella Ringner and Pip Durrell
Rahel Tesfai
Olivia von Halle and Emma Hartland-Mahon Camilla Elphick, Sadie Mantovani and Louisa Preskett Rachel Vosper and Alexandra Llewellyn
PHOTOS: © MARCUS DAWES
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T I M E
F O R
D E S I G N
MEISTER CHRONOSCOPE Since the 1930s the finest watches of the company have borne the Meister appellation. They continue to feature a skilful blend of the fascination with watchmaking and aesthetic design. Self-winding movement, stop function, sapphire crystal, water-resistant up to 5 bar. 27/4224.03 www.junghans.de
w w w.junghans.co.uk · info@thebluecompanylondon.co.uk
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Watches | STYLE
TICK TOCK
ON THE CLOCK Simon de Burton brings us the latest news from Watches & Wonders 2023, and beyond
IT’S JUST A BUBBLE
Rolex sent fans into a lather at this year’s Watches & Wonders show in Geneva when it pulled the wraps off new ‘Celebration’ dial versions of its stalwart Oyster Perpetual model. The mighty Crown caused a feeding frenzy back in 2020 when it released new OPs with pink, blue, yellow, red and green lacquered dials, some of which quickly appeared on the pre-owned market at more than six times RRP. It’s likely to be a similar story with the bubbleicious Celebration models, which can be had in 31, 36 and 41mm steel cases. Despite their playful appearance, the watches still come with ‘Superlative Chronometer’ certification, meaning they should remain accurate to plus or minus two seconds per day. £5,400 (41mm version), rolex.com
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PERPETUAL MOTION
When it comes to watch making, Abraham-Louis Breguet really was a GOAT ( ‘greatest of all time,’ geddit?). Between the second half of the 18th century and the first quarter of the 19th, he perfected just about everything worth perfecting watchwise and, notably, created a series of pocket watches that combined his ‘perpétuelle’ automatic winding system with a calendar display and his signature ‘hobnail’ patterned dial. Now the modern-day Breguet (owned by the mighty Swatch Group since 1999) is paying tribute to those historic pieces with the new Quantième Perpétuel 7327 wrist watch, a work of genius that contains 294 components and sports a ‘mechanical memory’ that enables its calendar to automatically take account of leap years and short months. Measuring just 39mm in diameter and a svelte 9.1mm thick, the watch is replete with exquisite Breguetstyle finishes – including that delicious hobnail dial – and can be had in white or rose gold. All yours for £73,100… breguet.com
ONE FOR THE LAY-DEEZ
High-tech, high-priced watch maker Richard Mille has produced its first sports model made specifically for women. The 36-gram RM07-04 is said to have taken three years to develop and was designed with the help of half-a-dozen female sports stars, including French racing driver Margot Lafitte, American golfer Nelly Korda and Czech snowboarder Ester Ledecká. Available in six versions – five with Quartz TPT cases and one made from Carbon TPT – the watches feature platinum winding rotors and movements with titanium base plates and bridges. Cream, orange, navy, pink and black colourways are offered, each with sharply contrasting highlights and bright, textile straps. 167,000 CHF, richardmille.com
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Watches | STYLE A LIFE MORE COMPLICATED
Patek Philippe has long believed that interesting, mechanical watches appeal as much to women as they do to men. But it wasn’t until 2009 that the revered maker debuted a ‘complicated’ model for women with the launch of what it called ’the Ladies First Chronograph’. That was followed by ‘the Ladies First Minute repeater,’ and now Patek has added a complication to its Aquanaut Luce range, launched in 2004. This new version of the Aquanaut sports watch for women gets an annual calendar function, meaning the date needs to be adjusted but once a year (at the end of February). But guard it carefully, girls – at 39.9mm in diameter and without a single diamond on its rose gold case, it wouldn’t look out of place on the hairy wrist of ’im indoors. £49,530, patek.com
IT SHORE IS BIG
Audemars Piguet created the Royal Oak ‘Offshore’ in 1993 to mark the 20th anniversary of the original , smaller, Royal Oak designed by Gerald Genta. And now, to celebrate 30 years of the Offshore itself, AP has released this mighty 43mm number that’s based on the ‘End of Days’ limited edition produced in 1999 in collaboration with the film’s star, Arnold Schwarzenegger. The 30th anniversary special is made from black ceramic with yellow detailing and comes with a choice of black or yellow calfskin straps. Just 500 examples of the flyback chronograph watch will be available worldwide. Instant collector’s piece…. £POA, audemarspiguet.com May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 53
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BACK TO NORMALE-ITY
Cartier introduced its ‘Prive’ collection in 2017 with the aim of reviving historic models and making them in small numbers – just the way things were back in the old days. A new model is honoured each year, with the latest being one of the first Cartier wrist watches of all, the Tank Normale. Designed in 1917 and first sold two years later, the first (and purest) Tank design gave way to several variations on the theme – but the new Prive model remains true to the original. Measuring just 32.6mm by 25.7mm, it contains a tiny, handwound movement and can be had in platinum or yellow gold, with both versions being available on leather straps or matching bracelets. If you can afford it (and can track one down) go for the platinum version on platinum bracelet with a red cabochon in the crown. Just 100 will be made – and they will be a better bet than money in the bank. £29,700, cartier.com
TOTALLY KERMIT-ED
Oris has set-out to ‘bring joy’ to buyers of a new variation of its ProPilot X Calibre 400 watch by giving it a make-over honouring Kermit the Frog, star of the celebrated Muppet Show. The Swiss maker collaborated with Disney+ – which began streaming the show in 2021 – to give the watch a frog green dial and a special calendar feature: an emoji of Kermit’s smiling visage appears in the date window on the first day of every month. The ‘ProPilot X Kermit Edition’ is due to be promoted by a Hollywood-filmed TV commercial in which everyone’s favourite amphibian is seen singing and playing the banjo. Word of warning: if you see a commercial pilot wearing this watch, head straight back to the safety of the terminal. £3,700, oris.ch
IT WAS SO INGEN-IOUS
Back in the 1950s IWC introduced a watch for lab workers, technicians and engineers called the ‘Ingenieur’ and featuring a specially-developed ‘Pellaton’ automatic movement encased in a Farady cage integrated with the dial to combat magnetism. The original look prevailed for more than 20 years before being freshened-up by freelance designer Gerald Genta to create the ‘Ingenieur SL’ of 1976. IWC revisits that model with the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, which subtly re-interprets the SLs screwdown bezel, grid pattern dial and integrated bracelet. Differences include the addition of crown guards and the use of IWC’s Calibre 32111 in-house movement. From £10,500, IWC.com
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Watches | STYLE DIAMOND GEEZER
The late Harry Winston – him they called ‘the King of Diamonds’ – liked nothing better than an emerald cut stone. Which is why the modern-day brand that bears his name created the ‘Emerald’ cocktail watch, a jewel-like creation with an eight-sided case based on the emerald cut shape. This new version of the watch is the first to feature ruby hour markers on its mother-of-pearl dial, the stones being complemented by a wraparound strap in red satin. A total of 44 brilliant-cut diamonds adorn said dial and there are 108 more on the case, which can be had in white or rose gold. From £12,800, harrywinston.com
BROADSWORD CALLING DANNY BOY…
Resolutely British manufacturer Bremont has added to its ‘Armed Forces’ collection with this limited edition take on the so-called ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches produced to a standard Ministry of Defence specification by 12 different makers towards the end of World War Two. The ‘Broadsword Recon’ (for ‘reconnaissance’) is a rugged, 40mm steel watch with a two-part ‘sandwich’ dial designed to glow bright in the dark during those risky night ops. The case backs are stamped with the symbols of each of the UK’s three armed forces and each watch is supplied with a ‘NATO’ style nylon strap as well as alternatives in black rubber and brown leather. Just 200 Broadsword Recons will be available. £3,195 (15 percent off for serving military), bremont.com n May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 55
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The One That Works Available at
johnbellcroyden.co.uk
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HEALTH &
PHOTOS: ADRIFT VISUALS/ ALICE GREENFIELD
WELLBEING
Dive In
Your vagus nerve, which runs from your brain down to your digestive system and is an essential part of the parasympathetic nervous system, is responsible for calming internal organs, enabling the body to rest and digest. Exposing your body to cold conditions, such as a cold shower or a cold water swim, stimulates the vagus nerve, resulting in improved digestion, immune response, heart rate, and mood. Read more about optimising your gut health on p60.
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Lifestyle Make like Lily Collins and co, and escape to the wilds of Colorado for some luxury R&R
MIND & MATTER
Life’s little luxuries
SOOTHE Big up bathtime with these biodegradable packaged organic salt crystals that soothe everything from aches to eczema. Can also be mixed with shampoo to add thickness. Newton Wood Epson Salt, £12. newton-wood.co.uk
BODY LANGUAGE
SLATHER Head swivelling science that works to increase collagen and elastin by 90 percent in a matter of days, this super serum is brilliant for taking redness out of skin and giving a glow. Evenswiss Regenerating Plasma, £58. dermoi.com
Olivia Falcon strikes spa gold in Colorado’s lithium hot springs
A
s a beauty editor I am often asked about my favourite place to spa. When people want to know where to go for an effective weight loss, I say The Life Co (thelifeco.com) in Turkey is still the best value. Who to see to fix a grumbling gut? Dr König at Villa Stephanie in Germany is your man (oetkercollection.com). But if you want a real game changer that will feed your soul and hone your body, I’d say save up, then gather up your loved ones and head out west to Dunton Hot Springs in Colorado (duntondestinations.com). Dunton is a 150-year-old prospecting town hidden in the remote San Juan Mountains, about an hour’s drive from civilisation. The charming log cabins that used house the old forge and the store are now bedrooms, (Dolores has the best view of a magnificent waterfall) and the old saloon now serves as a communal dining room. Guests are as colourful as the sunsets with everyone from Melinda Gates and Gwyneth Patrow to Lily Collins (who married here in 2021) and the Kardashian clan signing in. You’ll also get a sense of history at the bar where the eagle eyed can spy Butch Cassidy and Sundance’s names carved into the wood
for posterity, when they hid out here after their Telluride bank heist in 1889. The spa cabins are pretty magnificent, too. The staff have that horse whisperer-style intuition with humans and will unknot necks, backs, and everything in between with local crafted CBD oils and balms. Daily dips in the iron, manganese and lithium hot pools that naturally bubble up boost mood and promotes feelings of calmness, happiness and joy – yes really; our bodies naturally contain a small amount of lithium and its important for brain health and the growth and resiliency of neurons. Rather than spinning classes, there is a gorgeous yoga studio or if you want to be outdoorsy, Vicky the wrangler, whose great grandfather Denis Ekker laudered money for Butch Cassidy, will teach you to ride western and herd cattle. Days are spent hiking to the waterfall in summer or learning to fly fish on the Dolores river where you can stay in the River camp which takes glamping to a new level, even the bathrooms have heated floors. Needless to say no one has a problem sleeping here, the fresh air and lithium pools counteract urban exhaustion. My family doesn’t agree on much but we unanimously believe Dunton is our happy place, in fact just writing about it makes me smile. n
SWOT For those struggling with brain fog, these vegan capsules are loaded with Lion’s Mane, a mushroom extract said to help those with ADHD focus. Grass & Co Focus Lion’s Mane Capsules, £24.50. mushroomsandco.com
SHINE Perk up sallow skin and help fade out your freckles for a more even skin tone right in time for summer. Current State of Skin Vitamin C + Super Greens Brightening Serum, £21.90. cultbeauty.com
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness
BODY & SOUL
Camilla Hewitt asks the experts the gut health questions on our lips
1 2
HOW DOES STRESS AFFECT THE GUT?
‘The brain and gut are connected by the gut-brain axis, which is why when you feel nervous, you get butterflies in your stomach,’ says Madeleine Shaw, founder of The Glow Space (madeleineshaw.com). ‘When we are stressed, chemicals flow from our brain to our gut and are picked up by receptors that can trigger changes in our gut function. This might look like increased pain, changes in frequency of 1 stool or changes to the gut bacteria. Meditation can be used to calm the nervous system, reducing these triggers in the gut.’
HOW CAN WE EAT MORE FERMENTED FOODS?
‘Fermented foods can be unfamiliar to people nowadays, mostly due to the ultra-processing of foods,’ says Eve Kalinik, nutritional therapist (evekalinik.com). ‘So it’s about retraining our taste buds. Start with some of the less ‘intimidating’ ones such as natural full fat yogurt and then move onto less familiar ones such as kimchi. Pair condimentsized servings with familiar flavours: add kimchi to a cheese sandwich or mix sauerkraut through roasted carrots.’
3 4
HOW CAN THE GUT HELP PERIOD SYMPTOMS?
‘Menstruation is an inflammatory process,’ explains Dr Hazel Wallace, founder of The Food Medic (thefoodmedic.co.uk). ‘This is a normal process and central to healing but it can cause uncomfortable symptoms (hello period cramps!). Base your diet around anti-inflammatory foods, such as berries, oily fish, leafy greens, avocado, olive oil, nuts and seeds, as well as iron and vitamin C-rich foods.’
2
HOW DOES MENOPAUSE AFFECT IT?
‘Women have oestrogen receptors on every cell in their body, including the gut lining, so it’s not surprising lowering levels during menopause can cause changes in their microbiome,’ says Liz Earle MBE. ‘Topping up lowering estrogen with HRT obviously helps, as can supporting good gut bacteria with insoluble fibre from vegetables, as these fibres actively feed the good gut bugs’ (lizearlewellbeing.com). 3
Detoxing to reset the digestive system is fundamental for a functioning metabolism, strong immune system and general wellbeing. The Park Igls health retreat set in the Tyrolean mountains offers three programmes, ranging from four days to three weeks. All the excess waste from pollution, the wrong foods, and too much alcohol is stored in the connective tissue. This causes the smallest blood vessels to be pushed together, compromising blood flow. Vitamins and nutrients are no longer transported to the areas that need them, while toxins cease to be properly excreted via the liver and kidneys. The Park Igls programmes can counteract this process, restoring gut health. BOOK IT: Book the Detox Short Break from €1,832. park-igls.at/en
PHOTOS: PEXELS/ UNSPLASH
CHECK IN: PARK IGLS, AUSTRIA
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness Hiking along the South West Coast Path is part of Yeotown’s programme
SPA Trek
Yeotown magically unravels and reknits you with physical exercise, good food and mental and spiritual nourishment, says Lucy Cleland
I
t was really only on day four that the genius of the Yeotown regime filtered through. The penny dropped at last when I found myself, along with ten other women – all shapes, ages, nationalities and backgrounds – singing our hearts out, wiggling our hips and, most of us (me included), shedding the odd tear. Crooning, however tunelessly, to Bruno Mars’s Just the Way You Are, is enough to send the steeliest of people to the edge of emotion; for those of us whose armour had been gently stripped back over the past few days, we were mere putty in our teacher’s hands. But let’s go back to day one, when my fellow guests (this time, but not always, all female – most strangers to each other) and I gathered in the wooden beamed kitchen of the farmhouse complex with beautiful cabin-style rooms nestled on a hill in the north Devon countryside, for our ‘welcome’. I’d felt slightly nervy, unused to sharing ‘wellness’ (I usually do it solo). I’d brought my preconceptions, fatigue and insecurity into the room. But, I reasoned, I wasn’t here to make friends. It was only through the shared (intense) experience of Yeotown that is akin to peeling layers off an onion in terms of cutting through us both physically and mentally (it is billed as a detox, after all), that by day four, I not only felt warmth towards these incredible women, I felt positively nourished by them, along with the most beautifully flavoursome and nutritiously dense food, courtesy of Dan the cook. Whether they were luminaries in the art world, professors of neuroscience, or non-working mums with troublesome teenage daughters, it wasn’t those labels that defined them, but it did make them intensely interesting on those ten kilometre hikes along the hilly Devon coast (stunning).
The days are busy – physically demanding but immensely rewarding (especially when you are greeted on your return with a warm lemongrass and coconut drink). There is little time between ‘activities’ (for want of a better word) but they are so cleverly paced that you don’t mind that after your hike there is later an hour of weights and exercises in the garden (with Meg, who makes the sessions a hoot). Punctuating the physical comes the mental and spiritual or just plain relaxing: a cooking demo; breathing, meditation, a talk… and some surprises (they don’t like you to know what to expect each day). Each morning though starts with yoga. And if you’re lucky enough to have Yeotown co-founder Mercedes as your teacher, consider yourself blessed. For me, she somehow transcended every other yoga teacher I’ve had. I’ve heard her words before – it’s about your life off the mat, not on it – but they never quite penetrated in the way that Mercedes was able to explain it in her fast-paced Canadian lilt. She pushed us into discomfort, made us hold it, acknowledge it, feel it and breathe through it (the metaphor for life). I hadn’t practised for a few years – she fully made me want to get back to that mat regularly. At the end, most of us were still there to share a final lunch. It felt like the end of something precious, but also the beginning too – a clearing of internal space which could now be replenished. Yeotown hopes your filling is nutritious in all senses of the word: kindness to yourself, food that heals you; and exercise that keeps you strong. It is a formula worth sticking too. But should you wander off course, you can always come back again – as many of their guests do, year-in, year-out. BOOK IT: Five-day detox retreat, from £2,450 per person. yeotown.com
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NATURAL FIBRE SPRING SUMMER COLLECTION Bright, fresh colours are the hallmark of our new Spring/Summer collection. With crisp lines and flattering fits, our new range of cotton stretch denim creations will bring superior comfort and elegance to your new season wardrobe. From fresh nautical stripes to subtle pastels in luxury natural fibres, we’ve got everything you need to welcome in the summer sun with confidence and style. DENIM TIE JACKET | TR23007 | £69.95, STRETCH DENIM JEANS | TP94257 | £69.95 | 8 COLOURS STRIPE CANVAS ESPADRILLES | TA99143 | £54.95 | 3 COLOURS
To request our new Spring/Summer Catalogue call 01796 483 236 or visit our website to discover more. The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Notes
The
SCOOP
Give your pelvic floor the attention it deserves, says Charlotte Cole
WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS
Given that sometimes it can be harder to get an appointment with a GP than to do your kegels (see opposite), Optimise Health is an alternative worth considering especially if you’re trying to figure out why you’re not feeling on top form, but there’s nothing specific you can pinpoint. Describing itself as a digital health concierge, it operates all around London, and offers a wide range of testing (blood, DNA and microbiome, for example) in order to gain a detailed snapshot of your current health status. When the results have been analysed, the highly qualified doctors can then talk you through them and create a wellness journey bespoke to you – which could range from anything from at-home vitamin drips (a nurse will come to you) to supplements, ozone therapy and even fully supported weight management programmes. Tests start from £220. IV infusions from £220. linktr.ee/optimisehealth
CHAIR POSE
Sorry to get personal, but needs must. Do you ever dribble, and not from your mouth? A sneeze, a star jump, a run for the bus and… oops… you don’t quite have the bladder control you used to have. Well, here’s a lazy girl’s way of helping tighten those pelvic floor muscles if you forgot to do your thrice daily kegels. Let me introduce you to the EMsella chair, of which the sitting upon is equivalent of doing 11,000 kegels in just 25 minutes. Take a book, relax and let the electromagnetic field technology do the rest. You’ll feel a pulsing and contraction of the muscles in your nether regions getting some deep stimulation, but it’s nothing to get your knickers in a twist about. Quite the contrary. A minimum of six is recommended – and by the end you should really notice the difference. You might even try a wee-free jump for joy. £2,000 for a course of six treatments, drritarakus.co.uk
A FACIAL BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT
Sarah’s facials are the stuff of legend, whispered about in hushed tones over dinner parties in large houses in SW3. Have you tried it? No? Well, I have – so I can let you in on the secret, but you have to be okay with acupuncture needles. The session, which lasts a luxurious 90 minutes, can be akin to having a gut cleansing, mindclearing therapy session, plus sharper cheekbones and plumper skin to boot. It starts with Sarah taking a good look at your tongue – a window into your health, so that she can determine where her needles can be most effective. As the needles do their thing with re-energising and unblocking internally, Sarah attends to the other end: your feet with some scrumptious reflexology. There are also oxygen machines and LEDs involved, which when all fully orchestrated, means an amazing facial with glowing results externally (which lasts for days by the way), but also an internal lightening that you hadn’t bargained for. A facial with benefits. What more could you want? £395, sarahbradden.com
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CO M PE T I T I O N
TROPICAL TWIST Win a designer bedroom makeover courtesy of Yves Delorme
B
e transported to the sunny Caribbean tropics by Yves Delorme’s new Bahamas collection, featuring exotic flora boldly blossoming across 300 thread count organic cotton sateen bed linen. The botanical print depicts the Caribbean island’s national flower, the yellow elder, as well as vibrant lilies and fantastical imaginary creations, while the white backdrop acts as a blank canvas to the hand-drawn flowers bursting with colour. They’re complemented by a speckled coordinating print on the reverse of the duvet cover and pillowcases. A vibrant choice to inject summer sunshine into your sleep sanctuary. uk.yvesdelorme.com monogrammedlinenshop.com
WIN
One lucky Country & Town House reader will win a Bahamas bedroom makeover with Yves Delorme. Enter for your chance to win one king-size duvet cover worth £389, two standard pillowcases worth £89 each, with a total value of £567.
TO ENTER
Visit countryand townhouse.com/ competitions and follow the instructions. Competition closes on 30 June 2023, terms and conditions apply.
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Take Ten
NO MAKE-UP MAKE-UP
It’s all in the skin prep and light product layering, says Nathalie Eleni
2
Glow Recipe Strawberry BHA PoreSmooth Blur Drops A silicone-free primer to refine pores, blur imperfections and balance oils. Available from Sephora, just landed at Westfield. £29, sephora.com
3
5
7
9
4
6
8
10
Tropic Fixing Gel Mascara An eco-friendly mascara to nourish and condition your lashes giving beautiful, glossy enhancement and an inky black pigment. £18, tropicskincare.com
Les Filles En Rouje La Crème Good moisturising is key to glowing make-up. La Crème, with rosehip oil and peony extract, is your key to a classic French glow. Nourishing with a natural pinky hue to perk up all skin tones. £45, niche-beauty.com
KVD Good Apple Serum Foundation A flawless coverage that is transfer proof, long wearing and conceals imperfections. The super lightweight finish makes it look natural and totally undetectable. £34, sephora.com EviDenS de Beaute The Total Shield SPF 50 A luxurious lightweight veil enriched with triple collagen to provide protection against external aggressors, while leaving a beautiful silky texture on the skin. £140, harrods.com
Hannah Martin x Ciaté London 24 piece Professional Brush Collection Great brushes take all the hard work out of make-up application. This 24-brush set gives you every brush you need and ones you didn’t know you needed. £169, ciatelondon.com Lisa Eldridge Dancing Rose lip gloss Enhance your lips with a glass-like, shimmering gloss, Lisa Eldrige Dancing Rose lip gloss is the perfect choice to give naturallooking volume to lips. £20, lisaeldridge.com
3INA The No-Rules Stick 114 A creamy multi stick to work on lips and cheeks (and even eyes) for the most flattering colour enhancement. 114 is great for medium to darker skin tones and 503 for lighter skin tones. £15, 3ina.com Makeup by Mario Ethereal Eyes Eyeshadow Palette A beautiful palette of neutral matte and shimmering early tones that you can use for a wash of colour over the eyes, or use to contour and enhance the shape. £55, sephora.com
PHOTOS: PEXELS
1
Cell Shock Collagen Balm Cleanser A beautifully, buttery cleanser to prep skin ahead of makeup application. Massaged over face and décolleté, and removed with a warm damp cloth, it leaves skin nourished and refreshed. £95, swisslinecosmetics.co.uk
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | News
Beauty BUZZ
From head to toe, Nathalie Eleni gets you summer-ready
FULLY NUDE
Find the perfect nude lip shade for every skin tone with the lipsticks and matching liners from Vesta London Beauty. A great place to start is with the Nude Lip Gloss Edition Bundle, four beautiful, hydrating nude glosses in the most perfect tones. £40, vestalondonbeauty.com
JUST A SPRITZ
Crafted with the finest raw materials, aromatic top notes of fresh sage combined with floral notes of Wild Narcissus absolute contrasting with mysterious vetiver. Givenchy Gentleman Society eau de parfum, from £79. boots.com
AS EASY AS ABC... A skincare alphabet, created by Dr Marko Lens to boost your current routine by targeting specific concerns. Includes Vitamins A (retinol), B (niacinimide), C, D and E. Each serum is enriched with botanicals for a potent skin treat. £275, zelens.com
BRIGHT SMILES
Keep your teeth looking fresh and bright with the new Trio LED Light Activated 3 in 1 kit by London-based dental surgeon Dr Mahsa Nejati. It uses a gentle rosemary and thyme serum under a trio LED light to accelerate whitening and also work as an antibacterial for gums. £179, mahsa.co.uk
GOLD RUSH
Heading to the Maldives? Treat yourself to the Cleopatra 24-carat gold facial at Anantara Veli. Combining three resultsdriven treatments: diamond micro dermabrasion to exfoliate dead skin cells; LED light therapy to help improve natural collagen levels; and a 24-carat gold leaf mask to restore your skin’s radiance. The treatment can be part of a wellness retreat. $270 for 90 mins. Wellness retreats from $1,249. anantara.com
HOW TO… GET SET FOR SANDAL SEASON It’s time for the great unveiling of your feet after months in socks. Oskia’s Universal Hyaluronic Acid (£62, oskiaskincare.com) will replenish dry skin, while for a total at-home makeover, Beauty Pie’s Dr Glycolic’s Soft Feet 7-Day Peel Socks feature glycolic and lactic acids break down dead skin cells over a week (£15, beautypie.com). For a more targeted solution, the Gillian A Michael team located within John Bell & Croydon will help you find your foot care solutions. Also specialists in ankle, arch and toe pain an individual treatment programme will be created to give you happy feet once again. johnbellcroyden.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
EXPERT ADVICE FROM C&TH’S BEAUTY DIRECTOR
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E X C E P T I O N A L B AT H R O O M S DESIGNED AROUND YOU.
C R E AT I N G B E A U T I F U L B AT H R O O M S S I N C E 1 9 8 8 0 8 0 0 107 070 0 | r i p p l e s b a t h r o o m s . c o m B A T H , B E A C O N S F I E L D , B O U R N E M O U T H , B R I S T O L , C H E L M S F O R D , C H I C H E S T E R , H A R P E N D E N , L O N D O N , N E W B U R Y, S A F F R O N W A L D E N , S O L I H U L L , S O U T H P O R T, TOWCESTER, TRURO (OPENING SOON), WINCHESTER, WOKINGHAM
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CULTURE
PHOTO: © THOMAS MUELLER
Boiling Point The Southbank Centre’s summer season takes on the climate crisis in Planet Summer. From the pocket forest to The SpongeBob Musical, expect a curation of performances, exhibitions and free programming that will take you back to nature. More globe-conscious events on p72. (Pictured) Activists protesting in North America’s last remaining coral barrier reef in Florida Keys in 2009. Dear Earth: Art and Hope in a Time of Crisis at the Hayward Gallery 21 June to 3 September. southbankcentre.co.uk
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YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE
No need to jet-set this summer – the UK has a glorious spread of events (and we’ve compiled the best ones here). Cram these dates into your diary, says Tessa Dunthorne
1
PUB IN THE PARK VARIOUS DATES TOWN
FAMILY
FESTIVAL
Pints and picky bits – Pub In The Park is the ultimate crossover of food and music, as dreamt up by chef Tom Kerridge. With rockstar performers and chefs alike on the line up, it’s a show that’ll target at least two of your senses. And it’s all over the country, so plenty of chances to check out the unique festival. pubintheparkuk.com
2
SWIM AT NEW WILD SWIMMING SITES
3
3
ALL SUMMER
COUNTRY
SPORTING
GREEN
Love getting knee deep in wild waters? Four new sites have been designated for bathing this summer: Sykes Lane Bathing Beach, Whitland Creek at Rutland Water, Firestone Bay in Plymouth, and a section of the River Deben at Waldrinfield. Their water quality will be checked regularly by the Environment Agency. gov.uk
WILD CAMP SCOTLAND ALL SUMMER
COUNTRY
2
FAMILY
GREEN
Get ready for a bit of rough and tumble. Scotland’s wild camping laws allow you to set up nearly anywhere – as long as you leave no trace. Perhaps your low-impact summer staycation could be in the picturesque surroundings of one of the national parks? visitscotland.com
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What’s On | CULTURE
4
11-14 MAY
COUNTRY
SPORTING
THE OFFBEAT SARI AT THE DESIGN MUSEUM
25 MAY TO 4 JUNE COUNTRY
FESTIVAL
GREEN
5
19 MAY TO 17 SEPTEMBER
TOWN
ART
LEARN
Undress the contemporary sari – the Design Museum’s visually glorious exhibition explores the changing design of India’s everyday wear. £12.60, designmuseum.org
6
HAY FESTIVAL
From examining your Fairtrade banana, to ‘disagreeing agreeably’ with politics with Alastair Campbell, Hay Festival is the ultimate cornucopia of fresh thoughts. A real thinking festival for lovers of books and big ideas. Entry free, events individually ticketed, hayfestival.com
ROYAL
The Royal Windsor Horse Show has been a social season staple since the 1940s. It remains as glam as ever in 2023 (it’s sponsored by brands such as Hermès and Hästens, after all). Watch the galloping action in the grounds of Windsor Castle. From £25, rwhs.co.uk
5
8
THE ROYAL WINDSOR HORSE SHOW
CHELSEA IN BLOOM
6
22-27 MAY TOWN
GREEN
FAMILY
The free annual flower festival returns, this year themed around ‘flowers on film’. Wander the gloriously sun-soaked streets of Chelsea – which will see its façades and windows clad with fabulous floral displays drawing on the biggest moments in cinema. chelseainbloom.co.uk
7
BLUEGRASS OMAGH 26-28 MAY COUNTRY
FAMILY
FESTIVAL
Toe-tapping traditional tunes from the Appalachians. Every year, Omagh hosts one of the world’s largest bluegrass events outside North America – with a verif iably ‘knee-clappin’ line-up. ulsteramericanfolkpark.org
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9
DEER AND WILDLIFE SAFARI MAY TO SEPTEMBER
COUNTRY
FAMILY
LEARN
A family-friendly game of eye-spy. Turn your hand (and spectacles) to deer-spotting in Holkham Estate’s vast deer park; expert guides will be on hand to teach you all there is to know about the estate’s resident fallow deer. £5.50, holkham.co.uk
10 TOWN
10
CHESTERTONS POLO IN THE PARK 9-11 JUNE
GROWN-UP
GLAM
SPORTING
No need to leave the city to catch a chukka. Plan of action: try to make the best dressed lists; don’t miss the pop-up Fulham Food Festival; and stomp those divots. From £40.37, polointheparklondon.com May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 73
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CULTURE | What’s On
11
12
TOWN
SOUTHBANK PLANET SEASON 21 JUNE TO 3 SEPTEMBER
FAMILY
LEARN
GREEN
Strap in for talks by Greta Thunberg, Malala Yousafzai and Mya-Rose Craig, and a season of climate-focused art and exhibitions at the Southbank Centre. Planet Season is the all-action-go answer from the behemoth cultural institute – hoping to provoke questions around how we construct a relationship with nature, and how we can change the world. southbankcentre.co.uk
12 10-11 JUNE TOWN
MARYLEBONE VILLAGE SUMMER FESTIVAL
FAMILY
FESTIVAL
FREE
Probably not the village fête you grew up with – there’ll be no Shetland pony rides and coconut shies at the Marylebone Summer Festival. Rather, you’ll catch a jam-packed programme of fun – including an open air cinema, a dizzying array of food stalls, and even roaming bubble artists. marylebonevillage.com
13
KENSINGTON + CHELSEA ART TRAIL
JUNE TO AUGUST ART
11
FREE
West London has a secret: there’s an artistic heritage hidden just below the surface, waiting to be unearthed. The art trail, now on its sixth edition, returns – touring you from South Ken’s museum quarter through to the bustle of King’s Road. kcaw.co.uk
14 COUNTRY
14
DAYLESFORD SUMMER FESTIVAL 17-18 JUNE
FAMILY
FESTIVAL
Two days of sun-seeking in Daylesfordshire? Bliss. Dollop on a jam-packed itinerary of great food – a summer solstice banquet led by Clodagh McKenna to start, followed by cooking demosby the best in the business – plus floristry, puppy yoga, vintage sports cars, the best in sounds. C&TH will be there too so come and find us! From £25, daylesford.com
15 COUNTRY
15
THE BOODLES TENNIS 27 JUNE TO 1 JULY
SPORTING
GLAM
Encouraging its guests to dress for a ‘glamorous summer garden party’, The Boodles Tennis is the ultraglam sunny day soirée showcasing some of the world’s top male tennis players – and it’s non competitive, so you can relax and enjoy the show as the talent limbers up for Wimbledon and Queen’s. From £90.85, theboodles.com
PHOTOS: © PETE WOODHEAD; © PICTURE PLANE/ V&A
TOWN
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16 TOWN
THE YOUNG V&A REOPENS FROM 1 JULY
ART
FREE
LEARN
It’s been closed for three years, but it’s back (baby). The Young V&A reopens its doors for a summer of art and design with over 2,000 works and tactile, interactive exhibitions to explore. vam.ac.uk
17
PRIDE 2023
LONDON, 1 JULY; BRIGHTON, 4-7 AUGUST; MANCHESTER, 25-28 AUGUST TOWN
PARTY
FREE
Big gay celebrations – the summer marks the return of the Prides. From kaleidoscopic parades to huge headliner performances (Pabblo Vittar takes the lead for Manchester, alongside Danny Beard), it’s just the tonic. prideinlondon.com; brighton-pride.org; manchesterpride.com
18 3-16 JULY TOWN
GLAM
COUNTRY
TOWN
FAMILY
FESTIVAL
Bank holiday weekend blues be banished: the inaugural Battersea Park in Concert trots out an incredible line-up of London’s best classical, soul and jazz performers. Highlights will include the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra and The Ronnie Scott’s All Stars. Pre-order a picnic and don’t forget the fizz. From £32.32, batterseaparkinconcert.com
SPORTING
16
BALLET UNDER THE STARS
BOOK NOW
27-30 JULY
GLAM
BATTERSEA PARK IN CONCERT
26-28 AUGUST
WIMBLEDON THE CHAMPIONSHIPS 2023
Will British No 1 seed Cameron Norrie (p108) come up trumps? Cheer him onto victory at the unmissable summer sporting event. From £27 for a Grounds pass and £70 for Centre Court, wimbledon.com
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20
18
GROWN-UP
Don’t miss out – these hot tickets are bound to sell out
Dress up – but remember some layers, too. This glitzy al-fresco ballet twirls its tutus under twinkling stars in the gardens of historic Hatch House in Wiltshire. coventgardendance.com
Glyndebourne Festival 19 MAY TO 27 AUGUST COUNTRY
17 20
GLAM
FESTIVAL
Agenda: picnic in the gardens, raise a glass, catch a staggering aria. Rinse, repeat. Just make sure to look the part in your smartest black-tie ensemble. glyndebourne.com
Diva at the V&A FROM 24 JUNE TO 7 APRIL 2024 TOWN
ART
LEARN
PHOTOS: © PETE WOODHEAD; © PICTURE PLANE/ V&A
OTT is in this summer – the V&A explores the fashion, power and sparkling creativity of the divas of music and film who have defined pop culture since the 19th century. From Marilyn to Elton, this exhibition will be an unapologetic love letter to star power. £20, vam.ac.uk
The Return of Totoro 21 NOV TO MAR 2024 TOWN
FAMILY
Missed out last time on the Studio Ghibli adaptation? Now loaded with the weight of six Oliviers (and five WhatsOnStage awards), the RSC’s My Neighbour Totoro returns this winter. Don’t be reliant on the ballot – get booking well ahead of time. From £25, barbican.org.uk n
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CULTURE | What’s On
PREVIEW
Ellie Smith looks forward to catching Lily Allen in The Pillowman at Duke of York’s Theatre
M
artin McDonagh’s The Pillowman is widely regarded as one of the greatest plays of the 21st century. It premiered at the National Theatre back in 2003 in a production starring David Tennant, going on to run a season on Broadway – and for many years, there has been talk of a British stage revival. In 2020 we came close, with Aaron Taylor-Johnson primed to star in the production, but the pandemic scuppered those plans. This May, though, the show is finally coming to life, appearing for a 12-week run at the Duke of York’s Theatre. In an intriguing casting, Lily Allen will be the first woman to take on the lead role of Katurian, an imprisoned writer of violent stories. Set in a totalitarian police state, The Pillowman follows Katurian as she is questioned by the authorities
about a string of murders that bear an eerie similarity to her short stories. The play examines the role of the artist in society, interjecting the evidently dark subject matter with humour. Lily stars alongside Steve Pemberton (The League of Gentlemen, Happy Valley), with Olivier-nominated director Matthew Dunster at the helm – who the singer-turned-actor worked with on stage thriller 2.22 A Ghost Story. ‘One of our most inventive playwrights, Martin McDonagh, is renowned for pushing boundaries and it’s a privilege to join this show,’ said Lily. ‘Together with my incredible 2.22 director Matthew Dunster, I am excited to help create a production of The Pillowman that is sorely needed right now in these unprecedented times.’ 10 June to 2 September 2023, thedukeofyorks.com
MY Cultural Life
I’m tuning into... Succession (of course), and Gardener’s World. I’m reading... Girl, Woman, Other by Bernardine Evaristo. The last thing I watched was... On Youtube – about bonsai.
I am growing trees at the moment! A cause I’ve been involved in... I went to the Friends of the Earth march in April (Extinction Rebellion’s The Big One). My favourite painting is... Anything Picasso. His Blue and Rose periods in particular. My best film of all time... Festen (The 1998 Danish dark comedy drama). Singer I always have on repeat... Olafur Arnold. My ultimate cultural recommendation... Take a London walking tour with Jonny Fielding (IG: @bowlofchalk). He does a walk around east London and looks at street art – there are tiny portraits in chewing gum on the streets, and so, so much more. He is a font of knowledge. Season 3 of The Great will be... A gut-wrenching season for many as Catherine is put through the largest emotional test of her life. I’m working on… a film called Scoop for Netflix [about Prince Andrew] in which I am playing Princess Beatrice, and a documentary about female conductors called Maestra, which has just been selected by Tribeca Film Festival in New York. I’m working on a lot of stuff about women taking leadership roles formerly owned by men, interestingly.
Lily Allen is forging a new career on the stage as an actor, rather than a singer
Charity Wakefield returns to Catherine’s court in Season 3 of The Great, with Elle Fanning and Nicholas Hoult. From 12 May on Amazon Prime. amazon.co.uk
PHOTOS: © CRAIG MCDEAN; © MARC J FRANKLIN; © SHOT BY PIP; CHARITY WAKEFIELD STYLED BY HARRIET NICHOLSON, HAIR BY SVEN BAYERBACH, MAKEUP BY CHARLOTTE YAOMANS
Actor Charity Wakefield on growing tiny trees and her Picasso obsession
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Planted Country will take place from 9-11 June 2023 at Stourhead, Wiltshire in partnership with National Trust
The Critical LIST
Watch, read, listen
As we wait for season three of Bridgerton, Netflix is treating us to another dose of Regency drama with Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, a prequel spin-off about the young Queen Charlotte, played by Line of Duty’s India Amarteifio. Out now. netflix.com
TV
THE C&TH GUIDE TO…
PLANTED COUNTRY PHOTOS: © CRAIG MCDEAN; © MARC J FRANKLIN; © SHOT BY PIP; CHARITY WAKEFIELD STYLED BY HARRIET NICHOLSON, HAIR BY SVEN BAYERBACH, MAKEUP BY CHARLOTTE YAOMANS
Where design meets nature: this festival in Wiltshire wants you to reconnect with the earth, says Tessa Dunthorne
H
ow do we adapt and respond to a world that’s increasingly unpredictable? Planted Country is the new festival asking just this question – with a line-up of world experts weighing in to give us the answers.
THEATRE
WHAT IS PLANTED COUNTRY?
Planted was founded with the aim of promoting nature-based businesses and organisations through special events, with a mission to reconnect people with nature through great design. Its first event in London attracted over 6,000 eco-conscious punters, and from there the company decided to launch a getaway weekend with a line-up of cutting-edge thought leadership talking about how to design a more sustainable world.
WHAT’S ON THE AGENDA?
With an increasingly unpredictable climate, Planted Country has coordinated talks which are all about adapting and future-proofing. Think of it as a survival guide for the climate crisis. The talks range from the political (taking action against the water companies that are wrecking our rivers) to the individual (creating gardens that combat biodiversity decline). There’s also a programme of workshops for yoga, meditation and sound baths, and eco-design exhibitors like Naturalmat, Bramley and Jott Studio.
Michael R Jackson’s Pulitzer-winning show A Strange Loop is coming to London’s Barbican, a meta story about a young, gay, Black writer who pens a musical about a young, gay, Black writer. 17 June to 19 Sept. strangeloopmusical.com
WHAT TO EXPECT?
Planted Country brings in voices from the Soil Association, agricultural rockstar Andy Cato, the stewards of our National Trust sites, and much more. Given the nature of the climate crisis, some are bound to feel heavy, but they’re never without hope. You’ll leave knowing you, too, can make a marked difference on climate change. And it promises to be a lovely long weekend. The festival is set to the backdrop of the National Trust’s Stourhead, which you might recognise from Pride & Prejudice. Bask in the weather, explore the festival’s botanical market, and feast on delicious food. 9-11 June, planted-community.co.uk
Disney’s latest live action remake is The Little Mermaid, starring Halle Berry as Ariel alongside names like Melissa McCarthy and Jonah Hauer-King – plus a soundtrack from Lin Manuel Miranda. Out on 26 May
FILM Following his acclaimed debut Open Water, Caleb Azumah Nelson is back with his second novel: Small Worlds, an exploration of a father-son relationship taking place over three summers across London and Ghana. Out 11 May (Viking, £14.99)
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CULTURE | Books
ON THE EDGE OF YOUR SEAT Richard Hopton reviews three intriguing crime thrillers
Th is book marks the 32nd case for Donna Leon’s Venetian detective, Commissario Guido Brunetti. Like all its predecessors, this novel invokes the spirit and the feel of Venice, to the extent that the city itself is almost a character in the story. Commissario Brunetti is a thoughtful, bookish, self-effacing family man – the antithesis of a fictional detective like the late Philip Kerr’s coarse and cynical Bernie Gunther – who goes about his business quietly and without fanfares. His latest case concerns the murder of an undocumented Sri Lankan immigrant who has been living in the garden house of one of the city’s many palazzi. His body is found floating in a canal but there are few clues as to who might have murdered him, or why. The story of Brunetti’s investigation is elegantly told, subtle and satisfying. £22, Hutchinson Heinemann
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THE LIGHT OF DAY by Eric Ambler
Eric Ambler (1909-98) was an English thriller writer whose influence on the genre has been acknowledged by such masters of the art as John Le Carré, Len Deighton, and Frederick Forsyth. Now his books, three of which have recently been republished, deserve a new readership. The Light of Day, first published in 1962, is the story of Arthur Abdel Simpson, a petty criminal of indeterminate nationality who earns a crust robbing gullible tourists in Athens. One botched scam results in Simpson being pulled into a dangerous international conspiracy. Cornered – and played – by both the criminals and the authorities, Simpson fights to survive as the action moves to a shadowy world in the back streets and waterside villas of Istanbul. Unfailingly exciting, the novel is literate, understated, wryly humorous, and wonderfully atmospheric. £9.99, Penguin Modern Classics
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AGE OF VICE by Deepti Kapoor
Sunny Wadia is the debauched, feckless son of an immensely wealthy, wholly unscrupulous businessmangangster, Bunty Wadia. Sunny lives in New Delhi in gilded, air-conditioned luxury, his life dominated by booze, drugs and sex, and regulated by his faithful valet-butler, Ajay, a Dalit raised in grinding poverty in rural eastern Uttar Pradesh. Kapoor’s novel is a gripping tale of money, greed, power, family confl ict, and moral confusion told in her vivid, modern, unsparing prose. The novel lays bare the enormous gulf between rich and poor which exists in India and plays on the corruption and violence with which its political and business classes all too often conduct their affairs. For the most part, Age of Vice keeps up a rattling pace as the Wadia family fights itself and everyone else. No one is safe; nothing is sacrosanct. £20, Fleet
PHOTOS: © WILLY SOMMA
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SO SHALL YOU REAP by Donna Leon
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Tom Waits, Susan Sontag and other famous figures make guest appearances. Any comeback?
BIBLIO FILE
I wanted X to be in conversation with writers and artists of the mid-20th century. Up to a point, if you credit everything, you’re fine.
You were one of Granta’s 2017 Best of Young American Novelists and Biography of X has been hailed your Big American Novel, set in a fictional dystopia. Did it feel like a BAN, or did you write from a more personal place?
enjoy the moment in the writing process after I’ve spent a while setting up a world and characters and I can just go in and listen to them speak to each other. I don’t intentionally eavesdrop in cafés but I did a lot of that in my late teens. Lots of writers make me laugh – Lydia Davis, Lorrie Moore, Fleur Jaeggy, Franz Kafka, Thomas Bernhard, Garielle Lutz.
Has Catherine Lacey written a Big American Novel? asks Belinda Bamber
You have a gift for droll dialogue: do you carry a notebook, and which writers make you laugh? I really
I always write from a very personal place, though I don’t always know what I’m writing about until after it’s done. I wanted this to be a story of one woman trying to comprehend another, someone she loved and was harmed by, but not to be burdened by the constricting forces a queer couple would have to live with in mid-20th century America – so I rewrote history to give these characters a break.
Do you remember your first story, and when did a writing career feel viable? One of my first stories was a
X is like a ruthless, shapeshifting Greek goddess unleashed on the human world. Any role models? I think she’s bigger and more
ridiculous and flawed and unbelievable than any of the people who inspired her. Lou Reed’s recklessness, Susan Sontag’s intellectual capacity, David Bowie’s stage presence, Cindy Sherman’s power of disguise, Adrian Piper’s contrarian power, Fleur Jaeggy’s reclusiveness – such a person can’t really exist except in imagination. Why did you write it as biography? Part of what I love when reading a biography is learning about the friendships and relationships the subject had with other creative people. Th is one is written by someone who is grieving X and dissociating by writing about her. She encounters situations she’s unprepared for – the ruins of a fascist theocracy, for instance. Is Biography of X partly an exploration of sexual and gender identities? Various
identities have always existed, they just haven’t been visible. It is human and understandable to want to be seen as the person you feel yourself
to be, yet as Walt Whitman wrote in 1855, ‘Do I contradict myself? Very well then I contradict myself, (I am large, I contain multitudes).’ It’s tricky, but I think necessary, for a person to find a way to live that feels authentic to their particular multitudes. Those who don’t feel that tension don’t seem to understand the exploration. There could be some connective tissue between X’s many identities and the cultural moment we find ourselves in – one in which many people want to safely express who they are, and other people seem alarmed and threatened by such expression.
retelling of Little Red Riding Hood. In it, there’s no wolf, no grandmother, no wood. A girl gets in a car and drives away. I always wrote, but assumed I’d have jobs, too. I’m from a traditional part of the States and my father (joking, but not joking) told me I’d need to marry someone rich to write full-time. I worked as a cook, a secretary, a tutor, a personal assistant. Turns out I write better when I get to focus on it, and various people have made that possible for me. But I never had the chutzpah to assume I’d be a full-time writer. Ideal writing day? I’ve been somewhat nomadic for the last two years, so I’ve gotten pretty far away from routine. At one point I was living in a small house near the ocean and I’d write for a while in the morning then go to swim in the ocean. That was pretty ideal. I both edit as I go and do huge revisions that involve lots of throwing things away. I think the ideal days for writing also involve a lot of things that aren’t writing – cooking, walking, swimming, reading. On a good day I’d do at least some of those. Biography of X by Catherine Lacey (Granta, £18.99). Read the full interview in the C&TH Book Club on countryand townhouse.com
THE LIVES OF OTHERS
PHOTOS: © WILLY SOMMA
MIGRANT In Linda Grant’s saga The Story of the Forest, Latvian Mina makes a new life in 1913 Liverpool (Virago, £18.99); MOBILE Watch Us Dance continues Leïla Slimani’s story of Mathilde, now wealthy in 1960s Morocco (Faber, £14.99); MIXED UP Shy is a lost, disaffected teen, by the marvellous Max Porter (Faber, £12.99); ME TOO Katie Bishop’s The Girls of Summer reveals girls’ vulnerability to abuse (Transworld, £7.99); MARRIAGE Daniela Krien’s The Fire (Quercus, £16.99) refracts the mysteries of coupledom; MOTHER Claire Kilroy is fierce and funny on the seismic impact of a baby in Soldier Sailor (Faber, £16.99) n May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 79
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GET IN THE SWING
The ultimate guide to The Boodles Tennis
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eturning to the Buckinghamshire countryside from 27 June to 1 July 2023 is the 22nd edition of Boodles Tennis, one of the highlights of the British social season. A five-day tennis event featuring the world’s leading tennis professionals from around the world, it takes place in the sprawling 300-acre Stoke Park, acting as an intimate warm up to the Wimbledon Championships. Read on for everything you need to know.
Picturesque Stoke Park is home to the annual Boodles Tennis championship
THE HISTORY
The first Boodles Tennis event took place back in 2002, quickly establishing itself as an important event on the British tennis calendar. In just its second year, the event saw Mark Philippoussis lifting the BDCC trophy before going on to appear in the Wimbledon final two weeks later. By 2005, players like Tim Henman and Maria Sharapova were taking part, ahead of appearances from Novak Djokovic and Fernando Verdasco in 2007, and Andy Murray in 2008. In 2012, record crowds attended, with 11 of the world’s top 20 players taking to the grass courts and, since then, it has continued to grow.
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PR O M OT I O N
THE TENNIS
Today the event remains as popular as ever, offering a unique and picturesque setting for elite tennis. The Boodles has the feel of an English garden party, with a relaxed atmosphere where champagne flows and tennis stars mingle with guests. The purpose-built stadium fits just 2,000 people, and no seats are further than ten metres from the grass court, giving visitors a front row seat to the action. Excitement for this year’s event is particularly high due to a pandemic-induced hiatus since 2019. Stoke Park’s new owners are working with event organisers ACE Group to bring the event back with a heightened experience, running in partnership with the longstanding titular sponsor Boodles jewellers, which will be displaying some of its finest pieces. Sports presenter Di Stewart will also be returning to host the event. The gates open at 11.30am daily, and the tennis starts at 2.30pm, with close of play expected at around 6.30pm (though the duration of matches varies). Opening hours are extended on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. While the appearance of specific players can’t be guaranteed, the 2023 event is primed to showcase some of the world’s top male tennis players. To give you an idea, in 2019, Novak Djokovic, Stefanos Tsitsipas and Denis Shapovalov were all in attendance.
THE FOOD AND DRINK
A wide range of food and drink will be on offer for guests, with a full garden menu set to be announced closer to the event. Hospitality packages are also available
Over the years, The Boodles Tennis has welcomed superstar players like Novak Djokovic (above)
in both the Legends’ Enclosure and the Players’ Enclosure. The Legends’ Enclosure package includes food and wine prepared by award-winning chef Chris Wheeler, plus reserved court-side seats offering unparalleled views of the tennis. You’ll also be treated to afternoon tea in your private area. Even more lavish is the Players’ Enclosure package. Your day will kick off with a champagne reception while you browse the Boodles jewels on display, followed by a gourmet three-course lunch also cooked by Chris, plus a chance to watch interviews with the tennis stars before they take to the court. You can then enjoy the matches from your private courtside box.
THE DRESS CODE
The dress code is ‘smart casual’, with guests invited to dress for a ‘glamorous summer party’. BOOK IT: Tickets available now from £90.85. theboodles.com
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CULTURE | Theatre
All in a DAY’S WORK
This month, Ruth Wilson will be on stage for 24 hours in The Second Woman at the Young Vic. How and why? asks Amy Wakeham
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part from King Charles’s coronation, the next hottest ticket this spring is to catch Ruth Wilson in The Second Woman at the Young Vic, in a performance that is set to be as groundbreaking as it is astonishing. This will be no ordinary theatre production. In a staggering feat of endurance, Ruth, who is best-known for her roles in His Dark Materials, The Affair and Luther, will be on stage for an entire 24 hours. She plays Virginia, a woman in a relationship with Marty that has lost its spark – the same scene will be repeated over and over again between them. Ruth will be accompanied on stage throughout not by one Marty, but by a revolving cast of a hundred men, non-binary and queer, most of them non-actors, none of whom will have either met or rehearsed with Ruth beforehand... This sounds like a recipe for creative madness. ‘It just felt like madness,’ confirms Ruth, describing her attraction to the role. ‘Something completely “other”. A once-in-a-lifetime experience, where I will learn as much about myself as those performing opposite me. It feels like a personal challenge rather than an acting job.’ Some challenge. How do you even prepare for something like that?
Ruth Wilson is testing her limits by being on stage for a full 24 hours
‘I’m not entirely sure how to prepare,’ says Ruth, ‘and perhaps it’s best
not to, and just go with the chaos – I should invest in a few Red Bulls! But I’m willing this to be a personal exploration as much as an acting exercise. The unknown excites me.’ On the door tickets will be available throughout the 24 hours and the audience are allowed to stay as long as they like and come and go as they please throughout the performance. ‘I am hoping that people who have come at 8pm on Friday, may return at 8am in the morning to see how I’m holding up. Only a very few will choose to stay for the whole 24 hours and experience that whole journey with me.’ What does Ruth hope that the audience will take from the performance? ‘I think the repetition of the same scene will enable the audience to identify acute differences in human connection and interaction between the genders. It is a one-off for the audience as much as it is for me.’ No truer word was spoken. 19-20 May. A Young Vic and LIFT co-production, produced in association with Ruth Wilson, youngvic.org
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Nina Campbell
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CULTURE | Gardens
MAKE IT RAIN
Thomas Hoblyn has partnered with Boodles to create a woodland glade for this year’s Chelsea Flower Show
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t’s the event the green-fingered among us wait for all year long: Chelsea Flower Show, which will be held this year, as ever, at Royal Hospital Chelsea, from 22-27 May. Top of C&TH’s list to catch in 2023 is the Boodles British Craft Garden, created with awardwinning garden designer Thomas Hoblyn, who last year won a gold medal for his creation of the Boodles Travel Garden. His theme for 2023 is the ‘Best of British’, and this time around Thomas was inspired by the Pre-Raphaelite’s stylised depiction of woodlands in art. ‘In particular Woodland Glade by William Trost Richards, Ophelia by Sir John Everett Millais and The Lady of Shalott by John William Waterhouse,’ he explains. ‘I like the way they interpreted nature in a stylised way, and I thought it could translate well into a garden.’ Thomas will create a romantic woodland glade for the show, filled with plants like the rambling rose Félicité Perpétue, the feathery Alnus Imperialis alder tree, and weeping silver birches. But, ‘the weather can often work against you in May,’ he hedges. ‘This year’s palette requires a cool spring, so let’s hope that’s what we get.’ The garden will also be a celebration of British craftsmanship, with an arbour created by furniture designers Cox London, rustic-yetrefined paths by stonemason Jake Catling of Landscaping Consultants using Chatsworth stone, and furnishings curated by interior designer Rachel Chudley. At the heart of the garden will be a floating
Garden designer Thomas Hoblyn
Thomas was inspired by Sir John Everett Millais’s Ophelia
The gold medal-winning Boodles Travel Garden from Chelsea Flower Show 2022 (above and below); Boodles Raindance Chelsea Flower Show Suite
pool created by water sculptor Bamber Wallis; it’ll ripple as if raindrops dance across the surface, and was inspired by Boodles’ new Raindance jewellery suite, which will also be unveiled on the opening day of the show. ‘The Raindance special release for Chelsea Flower Show explores two ideas,’ explains Boodles’ head of design, Rebecca Hawkins. ‘The first of these is rainfall: if looking directly upwards, raindrops radiate out and towards you from a central point.’ In the resulting new suite, the ‘smaller diamonds are set further back and towards the centre, and the larger ones are set higher and further from the centre to give a sense of perspective. Pink diamond accents dance amongst the white brilliant cuts.’ The other design is based on a raindrop making contact with water: concentric circles of smaller diamonds form around the larger individual stone. For those who are inspired by romanticism of the Boodles British Craft Garden, Thomas has some sage advice for his fellow gardeners. ‘Analyse the colours in a natural landscape and then mimic how they are put together,’ he recommends. ‘Mother Nature does not make mistakes and comes up with the most wonderful planting combinations.’ rhs.org.uk; boodles.com n
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LONDON’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS FLORIST 0207 730 0030 sales@pulbrookandgould.co.uk www.pulbrookandgoul.co.uk
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CULTURE | Interview As well as royal regiments, Freddy is also an accomplished wildlife artist
FREDDY PASKE
n 2017, Freddy Paske became artist in residence for the Household Cavalry. ‘I reckon they thought, “ex-army, we’ll help our own”,’ he says candidly. Fast forward to the Jubilee year, and Freddy was asked back. While planning how to paint the regiment, he suggested doing the same for the Royal Mews, who pull the royal carriages and work with the royal footmen. ‘The Crown Equerry sat me down and went, “Freddy, I love the idea. But it’s not my decision to make, it needs to go in front of the Queen.”’ A scramble to put together a portfolio ensued: ‘I was calling my printers and pleading, “I need work tomorrow!” but I managed to get it to the Equerry in time. He called me and announced “Freddy, you’ll be delighted to know the Queen has approved your role. When can you start?”’ Freddy was given the title of Artist in Residence for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee and with it, attended parades and rehearsals, and even flew to watch the Royal Cavalry of Oman before they performed at Windsor Castle. He also got to visit the French Garde Républicaine: ‘they have beautiful stables in Paris with gendarmes in silver helmets adorned with horse tails that flowed down their backs – I was so spoilt,’ he sighs wistfully. In the parade, Freddie walked behind the state carriage with crowds ten deep either side. Sporting a suit and bowler hat, he sketched while a cameraman captured the momentous occasion to use as reference for paintings. ‘It was a surreal moment. I had a few frosty conversations with policemen who wondered who on earth I was,’ he recalls, laughing. In his home studio in the Cotswolds, Freddy muses on his childhood
passions: art and the army. ‘Dad used to buy huge reams of photocopier paper – I had a massive penchant for drawing helicopters and tanks.’ Both interests have been lifelong – he joined the army at 16 and went on to study Art History at Leeds University. After graduation, he started at Sandhurst. Days began at 5.30am with the national anthem and a mandatory litre of water. If a sheet was tucked with a wrinkle, a sergeant would unceremoniously chuck the bed out of the window. Afterwards, he joined the Light Dragoons, stationed in Norfolk and then Afghanistan. ‘In a light tank, you have amazing thermal sites and firepower behind you – you can call in helicopters and jets, you are perfectly placed to support infantry on ground operations.’ In his studio, a clay barn owl swoops ominously, ‘I might add a mouse, but maybe that’s a bit morbid.’ A drawing board holds a canvas of horses on The Mall during the Jubilee. ‘I had a great teacher, Mr Page, he’d say, “Push the boundaries of that colouring, that brush strength, go even broader”. The painting shows grand ceremony, Union Jacks hang down over soldiers in red jackets, but also an intimacy with the horse and its serious role. ‘It started off as an abstract, red painting. On top of that, I painted the highlights very specifically in oil paint, and that’s where you get the image coming together.’ An artist with experience of the darkness of the human condition and an understanding of nature’s power is surely is an artist for our time. Expect to see a lot more of Freddy Paske. freddypaske.com
PHOTOS: © CAITI GROVE
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Caiti Grove meets Queen Elizabeth II’s Artist in Residence
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CULTURE | Art
The EXHIBITIONIST
Ed Vaizey’s invite got lost in the post… but you can still get up close to all the coronation action
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This is also a large exhibition, with over 200 works from the Royal Collection – paintings, prints, drawings and clothes. The portrait of Queen Charlotte, the wife of George III, by Thomas Gainsborough has come over from Windsor Castle for display, alongside her book of psalms, shown in public for the first time (and covered in fabric from one of her dresses). The exhibition is keen to make the point – as does the one at KP – that court dress was far removed from the fast-emerging fashion on the street. This point is brought home by a painting from the period of St James’s and the Mall, showing a lavishly dressed Frederick Prince of Wales and his courtiers alongside people from all walks of society. Of course, King Charles’s coronation will be modern and far less formal than any before it. One tradition that has ended is the formal banquet in Westminster Hall, near my office. Having missed out on the coronation itself, maybe I would have had a chance to gatecrash. Sadly it’s not to be, I will have to go to the Lords’ canteen instead. n CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Portrait of Queen Charlotte by Thomas Gainsborough (1744-1818); Jeremiah Meyer, ring with a miniature of George III; Court dress recorded as having been worn at court in the 1760s; Peter Dundas gown worn by Beyoncé to the 2017 Grammys
PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; FASHION MUSEUM BATH
adly, yours truly did not blag a ticket to the coronation. Peers of the realm (yes reader, I am one) were invited in March to enter a ballot for a ticket. Twelve were available and 124 peers applied. At the time of writing, no one has confessed to being a winner. I am sure the selection was entirely random. So, like the rest of the country, I must seek my coronation fix elsewhere. I’m pleased to report that there are two outstanding exhibitions that you can go to, and which will be close to the action. Where better to start than at Kate and Wills’ place – sorry, the home of the Prince and Princess of Wales. I refer, of course, to Kensington Palace. Last month it opened From Crown to Couture, the largest exhibition it has ever staged (until 29 October, hrp.org.uk). There are over 200 objects on display, and they are not all strictly royal. They include, for example, Lady Gaga’s luminous green MTV Awards dress, the gold Peter Dundas gown worn by Beyoncé at the 2017 Grammys, and the Monique Lhuillier gown worn by Phoebe Waller-Bridge at the Emmys in 2019. Thankfully, there is the world-famous Silver Tissue Gown worn at the court of Charles II, as well as the Rockingham Mantua, which ensures there is a royal element. The exhibition makes explicit the link between court dress and catwalk fashion. It’s even been designed by Alexander McQueen’s production designer Joseph Bennett. In the 18th century the mantua – a loose gown open at the front – was the way that ladies at court could display not just the finest material for their clothes but also their jewellery. No one will wear one at the coronation, so we will have to wait for the Met Gala to know what a 21st-century courtier would wear. Even closer to the action is the recently opened Style and Society: Dressing the Georgians, at the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace (until 8 October, rct.uk).
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PR O M OT I O N
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE Head to Monaco for a holiday among the stars
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PHOTOS: © MONTE-CARLO SOCIÉTÉ DES BAINS DE MER; © B VERGLEY
he Principality of Monaco has always been a destination of choice for discerning travellers. Although many people visit for events like the Monaco Grand Prix, the country is always reinventing itself, offering an array of incredible summer attractions for everyone to enjoy. Monaco has long been associated with the stars of stage and screen, nurturing and promoting the best of the arts. These stars align every summer at the MonteCarlo Summer Festival, which has welcomed artists such as Frank Sinatra, Celine Dion and Rihanna. This July, Chris Isaac will perform at the Opera Garnier Monte-Carlo, Sting will be at Place du Casino, and he and Seal will both perform at the famous Salle des Etoiles. The Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra will also relocate to the heart of the Cour d’Honneur at the Prince’s Palace for a series of classical concerts by composers including Dvorak, Chopin, Tchaikovsky, Brahms,
Discover stars of all kinds in Monaco this summer
Mozart, and Beethoven, performed by some of the greatest conductors and soloists in the world. Also for culture lovers is the big Monet exhibition at the Grimaldi Forum, which will showcase his work like you have never seen it before. The constellation of attractions continues with Monaco’s six Michelin star restaurants. Make a reservation at La Table d’Antonio Salvatore at the Rampoli, where French and southern Italian influences combine to create a unique flavour. Afterwards, dance with the stars at Place du Casino, which will be transformed for the spectacular F(ê)aites de la Danse, a popular event held in July with performances and workshops from artists from all over the world. Another option is to catch a movie under the stars in Monaco’s open-air cinema, Europe’s largest outdoor screen that overlooks the shimmering Mediterranean. It plays the latest Hollywood blockbusters in English, and serves up champagne, wine, popcorn, and sweets from the onsite bar. For those who want to keep the party going, you can then enjoy the brand new Maona Monte-Carlo, an open-air summer cabaret. The stars are out in force in Monaco – come and see them for yourself this summer. It really is ‘Like Nowhere Else’. Discover more at visitmonaco.com
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CULTURE | Conservation
The POSITIVE DISRUPTOR The bitter sweet experience of death in the NHS. By James Wallace
when admitted for severe bowel infections. Endless uncertainty and waiting endured each time her disease threw something new at her. And all the while we witnessed much worse for many other patients as the increasingly privatised and under-funded NHS imploded around us. Since 2010, UK hospital waiting lists have lengthened from two and a half million to over six million patients. Hospital beds have Becca Wallace d ropped from 170,000 to 132,000, with just 2.4 beds per 1,000 people compared with 7.8 in Germany. The King’s Fund predicts a 100,000 shortfall in nurses by 2029 based on current trends, while burned-out fema le nu rses have the highest risk of suicide in any profession. As Becca’s carer, the impact on me and our family has been profound. Deep gratitude blends with sickly anger at how our government has slashed and burned our internationally proud life support system for 13 years. The slow collapse of the NHS is a well-orchestrated strategy. Even as I write, hard-working nurses, teachers and fire officers feel compelled to strike for a fair wage. The age of strategic public asset-stripping thinly disguised as divinely ordained austerity will soon end. I hope that when we all go next to the ballot box, we will vote for investment in our public services and a caring society. Let’s help Becca rest in peace by making those who put profit before people swallow the bitter pill of their own medicine. n
THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW How to do death with dignity
Becca with nurse Evangeline
VOLUNTEER Lend your time to your local hospice, mine is Prospect Hospice. prospect-hospice.net DITCH Talk about the taboos around death and dying with Daisy’s Dream. daisysdream.org.uk
DONATE You can help save lives with the Pelican Cancer Foundation. pelicancancer.org LEARN Bone up on NHS policy and the state of our care system with The King’s Fund. kingsfund.org.uk
READ God Is An Octopus by Ben Goldsmith, exploring loss and solace through nature. (Bloomsbury, £20)
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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fter nine years bravely living with cancer my wife, Becca Wallace, died peacefully on 12 February, aged 45. My teenage daughters, Flora and Annabelle, and I are left grappling with how to bring light into a wife- and mothershaped abyss. She is everywhere yet we ache for her gentle smile, naughty laugh and calming presence every day. Emerging from the wrenching pangs of separation, we feel surges of gratitude for the near decade of joy that we had creating memories after Becca’s diagnosis of a rare cancer, Pseudomyxoma peritonei (PMP). Many others die without warning or with just a short period to ready themselves, both as the deceased and their survivors. Shock multiplies grief. Becca’s life was saved in 2014 after 13 hours of surgery by Brendan Moran and his team at North Hampshire Hospital and the Pelican Cancer Foundation in Ba si n g stok e . Following a gradual rec u r rence f rom 2016, for the last two years Becca suffered increasingly with six stays in hospital last year. Throughout, she received the best care the NHS could provide with diminished staff and resources. Love, compassion and support abounded from literally hundreds of people over the years. All paid for by our taxes, and yours. However, Becca also experienced the harsh realities of NHS cutbacks. Ambulances failed to appear when she had life-threatening sepsis. No beds were available 90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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THERE’S YOU YOU, THEN THERE’S
SUMMER MILE RACING WEEKEND - 14 TH - 15 TH JULY QIPCO KING GEORGE WEEKEND - 28 TH - 29 TH JULY DUBAI DUTY FREE SHERGAR CUP - 12 TH AUGUST VISIT ASCOT.COM FOR TICKETS
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Dacia Duster Extreme SE Tce 130 4x2 PRICE £23,095 ENGINE 1.3-litre petrol POWER 128hp 0-62mph 11.1 seconds ECONOMY 45.5mpg STREAMING I Want You To Want Me – Cheap Trick
Road Test
Cheap and very cheerful – the budget Dacia Duster cleans up and has the feelgood factor, says Jeremy Taylor
Dacia was born in Romania in 1966 but stepped up a gear when Renault bought the company in 1999. The brand launched here in 2013 and, as Skoda went upmarket, Dacia took over as a credible budget option. Despite the rugged SUV image, most Duster models are 4x2 – or just two-wheel drive, like a saloon car. However, the Dacia has plenty of ground clearance and, if chosen with the all-wheel drive transmission, can hack it in the mud. I’ve seen a Duster pull a swanky Range Rover Evoque out of a hole! The wide and high boot packs plenty of space but there is less room for items in the cabin itself, with small door bins and even tinier cup holders. You could get three adults in the back but it would be a tight squeeze. Best for baby seats and small children. Some of the interior plastic feels utility, especially in the entry-level models. The infotainment system is also a bit sluggish and feels dated. Apple CarPlay and Android are available on more expensive versions. The only area when the Dacia doesn’t measure up is safety. It scored three out of five in NCAP crash tests and lagged behind in security ratings too. That may be an issue for some owners. Few cars deliver this much for so little money. Renault’s influence has ensured Dacia is now a force to be reckoned with and only a true badge snob would turn their nose up. Alternative options include the popular Skoda Kodiak and Suzuki Vitara but you will pay more. RATING: 4/5 WELLIES
TOWN
Looking for a new car that beats the cost of living crisis and is actually rather good? The Duster has become one of those classless motors driven by lords and loafers – people who don’t give a stuff about the badge. It reminds me of a Citroen 2CV, the original Mini or an old Volvo estate – you just don’t know who might be behind the wheel. Buy one in a fetching shade of Dusky Khaki and the Dacia SUV looks especially smart, a proper family car from as little as £16,095. Trust me, there isn’t much for sale at that sort of money. Pay another £1,000 for the Expression model and the Duster features an eight-inch infotainment screen and rear parking camera. The top spec Extreme SE even had heated seats. Dacia underwent a rebrand last year and the Duster’s winning formula was given a refresh, with a smart new interior and minor tweaks to the exterior. Choose from petrol, diesel and LPG models – the latter is especially frugal with top ups every 750 miles! There are two and four-wheel drive versions as well. All but one Duster models come with a six-speed manual gearbox, which can make urban driving tiresome but at least the SUV is equipped with a light, easy gearbox. A raised seating position and short dimensions make parking easy. The single automatic model has the most powerful engine, a 1.5-litre that is exceptionally smooth and refined. All versions are quiet on the motorway – sadly there isn’t an electric Duster just yet. RATING: 4/5 HANDBAGS
PHOTOS: MAX EAREY
COUNTRY
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Motoring | CULTURE
THE DRIVE
Destination: Langdale House, Lake District
Stand on the terrace at Langdale House and it’s hard to imagine this quiet corner of the Lake District was once a busy crossroads for traders. Pack horses would haul carts up the narrow tracks to negotiate Hardknott Pass and Skelwith Bridge, carrying their goods across the hills and beyond. Today, the sleepy hamlet of Little Langdale is at peace again – a rare haven of calm, tucked away in one of the National Park’s quieter corners. Most visitors come here to enjoy a pint by the fire at the Three Shires Inn, or to start a walk along the River Brathay. Langdale House is a short walk away and overlooks the fells, a self-catering property for up to ten guests, it offers sensational views that unfold across a wildflower meadow. A warm, modern house, this idyllic retreat has three reception rooms, an outdoor hot tub and a whopping kitchen. Not that I’m making much use of it – booking agent Oliver’s Travels offer private chef hire from Dineindulge (dineindulge.co.uk), which has dispatched a cook to prepare Saturday supper. Browse the online menu, place an order and suddenly the dining room is transformed into a restaurant. Langdale House is social and spacious, perfect for large groups with children who want to escape the grown-ups in their own living room. Floor-to-ceiling windows with panoramic views, a working fireplace and large, cosy sofas just add to the ambience. The roads around Langdale can be challenging at the best of times, in the winter I’d certainly recommend a 4x4. Perhaps using a sledgehammer to crack a nut, my steed today is no carthorse but Aston Martin’s phenomenal DBX. The company’s first SUV is also the brand’s best-selling model.
Views for miles at Langdale House
And this is the upgraded 707 version, with a substantial boost in power compared to the standard DBX, performance improvements and uprated handling to match. Loaded with a 4.0-litre V8, the Aston Martin offers simply explosive thrills. Most of the upgrades are under the skin but the 707 also sports a quad exhaust system, wider 23-inch alloy wheels and some gentle changes to the body design that don’t spoil the DBX’s existing good looks. Then add all-wheel drive grip, five driving modes, a slick nine-speed gearbox and huge amounts of torque for rapid overtaking. This comes in especially handy when late for supper at The Yan, the award-winning family bistro I’ve booked for Sunday dining (theyan.co.uk). Thirty minutes away, just north of Grasmere, this is comfort food at its very best – anyone for a venison stack, or what about an epic baba ganoush?
IN THE BOOT
MCLAREN @ 60 A Lego twin-pack of iconic cars that bookmark the history of the British marque – the F1 LM and the Solus GT hypercar. McLaren Speed Champions, £39.99. lego.com
BOOK IT: From £2,617 a week. oliverstravels.com Aston Martin DBX 707 PRICE £190,000 ENGINE 4.0-litre V8 petrol POWER 697bhp 0-62mph 3.3 seconds ECONOMY 20.8mpg STREAMING Glory Box – Portishead
FANTASTIC FERRARI The glory days of the Prancing Horse were the early 1960s – this epic coffee table book boasts incredible photography. Ferrari 1960-65: The Hallowed Years (Evro, £75)
LOCK & GO A steering wheel immobiliser is a visible deterrent to thieves – this one’s a tried and tested winner. Stoplock Pro Elite, £59.99. halfords.com n
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Every Polestar car comes with a Lifecycle Analysis report that shows its carbon footprint
MY LITTLE GREEN BOOK
C
Lisa Grainger speaks to Polestar’s head of sustainability, Fredrika Klarén, about creating a better future for people and planet
ars and sustainability aren’t words that normally go together very well. Almost a fifth of all carbon emissions comes from transport – and three-quarter of that is emitted by cars. So when one of Sweden’s leading sustainability advocates, Fredrika Klarén, starts to wax lyrical about driving, it comes as a bit of a surprise. ‘I love cars: the design, the performance,’ she says. ‘I get such pleasure out of mine: looking at it, driving it.’ That’s not only because the 44-year-old has long been what she calls a ‘EV geek’. But because she drives what she believes is one of the most beautiful green cars on the planet, the Polestar 2. As the head of sustainability for the six-year-old, Swedish EV manufacturer, and one of the leading lights in the drive to make mobility greener worldwide, she is pragmatic about car use. People want the safety, convenience and comfort of cars, she says; there are currently 1.1 billion, or a car for every 7.8 people. The aim is to make them as clean and green as possible. ‘You have to build cars that live longer lives, that are used more, that are shared between people,’ she insists. ‘Cars designed for circularity, for long life, for high utilisation.’ Although, she admits, in a world with over eight billion people riven with inequality – with 710 vehicles per 1,000 people in America, and 0.5 per 1,000 in Africa – private car ownership is only part of a bigger picture. ‘Cars are part of an interconnected system in which public transport is hugely important, alongside cycling and walking. They all work in harmony; they all play their roles,’ she insists. That’s because they have to be, she says passionately. ‘As the world heats up, we can’t afford to open more coal plants and keep buying petrol. All of our lives are at
stake. We have six years till we hit 1.5 degrees warming – or maybe sooner. Then we will set in motion catastrophic events.’ Having worked previously at Ikea and the fashion retailer KappAhl, Klarén been able to see first-hand the impact that manufacturing has on our world – whether that’s cutting down trees for flatpacks, producing fabric for fashion or extracting metals for cars. Most companies, she says, clearly exasperated, are reluctant to be transparent. What that leads to is ‘people being exploited in supply chains all over the world and non-transparent ways of working that are ingrained. When you look at metals and minerals, for instance, corruption is one of the main hinders for progress.’ At Polestar, she insists, transparency is at the heart of the business – every car comes with a Lifecycle Analysis report that shows its carbon footprint, from supplies to manufacturing and recycling. By 2030 the company has set itself the ambitious task of producing Polestar 0, a car that is totally carbon neutral, without offsetting. Each of the 50,000 parts, she says, will be made by suppliers governed by a strict code of conduct and audited; already, for metals like lithium, cobalt, nickel and mica, the company has set up blockchain traceability. Its launch, she says, is driving everyone. While the CEO of its competitor, Tesla, focuses on Mars and Twitter, the production of Polestar 0 ‘is like going to the Moon. No one thinks we can do it. But we have to’. En route, she says, they will share whatever they learn – so that other manufacturers can follow. At COP26 in Glasgow she was horrified to learn that only 1.5 per cent of the world’s cars are electric. That means, according
‘We feel POWERLESS because we are in a CRISIS and no one is taking control. You have a CHOICE: freeze or take the POWER back’
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Sustainability | CULTURE a Pathway Report they commissioned with the American vehicle company Rivian, the automotive industry is set to overshoot the 1.5-degree pathway by at least 75 per cent by 2050. ‘So we need to communicate and collaborate,’ she says. ‘We need to change.’ To stay within the carbon budget, she says, the industry has to do three things within the next decade: ‘to fully transition to only selling EV, to scale up renewable energy production to 100 percent, and to decarbonise our supply chains by 81 percent.’ All of which Polestar is working towards, she says. The company already has three big battery recycling centres – in China, Europe and America. They work with innovative companies, from Pensana mineral extraction in the UK, which mines using hydroelectricity, to a Swedish company called PaperShell, which makes high-tech materials from wood. And its two factories in China, she insists, are role models for other manufacturers. ‘The plant in Chengdu was the first in China to get LEED Gold Certification. And my Chinese colleagues are guiding stars when it comes to sustainability. They want to make a change; they are so impacted by pollution.’ Opening a new car factory in the US in 2024, and situating its R&D plants in Nuneaton in the UK, employing 400, she hopes, will help drive its sustainability ethos into other countries, too. Growing up on a tiny car-free island outside Gothenburg in Sweden – the city in which she still works – taught her so much, she says, about ‘how we are dependent on nature being in balance for all the ecosystem services we need. But also, growing up on a small island you also understand the importance of community and collective progress, as opposed to individual progress. That, more than anything, has made me want to work
in sustainable development. I have it in me, with me, from my upbringing.’ Being raised by a single-parent father who uses a wheelchair also gave her other insights and strength, she says. What he taught her, she says, ‘is going full speed ahead on being myself. And showing me resilience. I’ve seen how you can persevere through all sorts of challenges if you have the right mindsets and the right support.’ But even in Sweden, which is famously progressive, businesses, and in particular the automotive world, are still dominated by men, she says. ‘We have come a long way, and we should give thanks to the women who went before us – who fought so hard for my rights. But we are not where we need to be. We still have a huge wage gap between men and women – and gaps in the LGBTQ communities and people of other ethnicities. So we have to keep our eye on the ball.’ What she has learnt, she says, both from her degree in civil engineering, in which she focused on environmental systems analysis, and her career, is that ‘it’s important to take charge of how you want to live your life. We all feel powerless because we are in a rampant crisis and no one is taking control. But you have a choice: to freeze or take the power back.’ At home, she and her husband created a climate plan in which they wrote a list of things they needed to change in their lives. They installed solar panels on the roof, promised never to drive a fossil-powered vehicle again, stopped eating meat regularly, increased the second-hand share of what they buy, and decided to fly as a family only once a year. ‘I still worry a lot,’ she says, shrugging, ‘but I am doing what I can.’ The next generation, she suspects, will be more hard-core in their decisionmaking. Although her daughter is 16, and learning to drive, ‘she will never, ever, drive a petrol or diesel car, my kid. I am not sure she will even own her own.’ Instead, she says, she’ll probably car-share: ‘get a car from a car pool when she needs one. Or rent one if she’s abroad. Or use an app to share.’ What’s certain is that her daughter will have a hugely informed mother to turn to for advice – a woman who’s made it her mission to ensure more of us understand the impact of our lives on our planet. Which is a pretty good start. polestar.com n
Fredrika Klarén (right) is head of sustainability at Polestar. Its commitment to its carbon reduction journey is set in stone (above)
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CULTURE | News
GOOD NEWS
It’s sunny, and so are these news stories, says Tessa Dunthorne
The moon crew don their orange space suits ahead of a historic mission on the Artemis II
TO THE MOON AND BACK
BRILL NEW B CORPS Love Brand & Co The swimwear company donates two percent of its net revenue to charity each year. lovebrand.com Elephant Gin The award-winning gin donates 15 percent of profits to elephant conservation projects in Africa. elephant-gin.com Modern Milkman A plastic-free 21st-century take on a daily milk delivery. themodernmilkman.co.uk SBTRCT Skincare that’s plastic, water and palm oil free. sbtrct.co.uk
TWO BY TWO
Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank – dubbed ‘Noah’s Ark for plants’ – has surpassed a major milestone: it’s now banked the seeds for 40,000 different plant species. The ‘ark’ aims to preserve the biodiversity of the planet and has, to date, stored 2.4 billion individual seeds in its underground vaults. kew.org
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PHOTOS: © CAMERON GOODHEAD; © TOM WILKINSON/UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD; © VISUAL AIR/ RGB KEW
GAMECHANGERS
It’s been a century of trying – and eight years of effort by the team in Oxford – but a new malaria vaccine has been approved for use in Africa. The Ghanaian and Nigerian drugs authorities are rolling out immunity shots for infants in their nations, who were previously one of the highest mortality groups for malaria. A possible end to malaria is in sight – and it doesn’t stop there – new advances in vaccines indicate that we might see groundbreaking new jabs for cancer and cardiovascular diseases by 2030. Sources: Good News Network; The Guardian
NASA has named its latest moon crew – Reid Wiseman, Victor Glover, Christina Hammock Koch, and Jeremy Hansen – who will embark on a flight test aboard the Artemis II over the course of ten days. This marks the first time humans have flown to the vicinity of the moon in over 50 years, and a historic moment as the ‘first woman, person of colour, and first Canadian’ cross our skies on a lunar mission. Source: NASA
IN GOOD COMPANY
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
A celebratory season for rewilding across the United Kingdom and Ireland. From the reintroduction of beavers to London to calls to reintroduce wolves to Donegal, the state of our biodiversity is receiving much needed thought. Rewilding Britain has recently been awarded over £15,000 for ten projects, one of which aims to reintroduce native wildcats to Bodmin Moor’s temperate rainforests. And a bit further north, the Dundreggan Rewilding Centre in the Highlands, the first of its kind in the world, opens on the site of a former deer-stalking estate. Sources: Rewilding Britain; Business Green
Orgs making strides for people and planet
GREEN OLD ALLY PALLY
The Mayor of London’s Local Energy Accelerator has awarded Haringey council £85,000 to make Alexandra Palace greener, and to eventually allow it to produce its own ‘clean energy’. From draught-proofing to kitting the palace up with solar panels and smart tech, Alexandra Palace will help make Haringey cleaner and greener. alexandrapalace.com
PHOTOS: © CAMERON GOODHEAD; © TOM WILKINSON/UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD; © VISUAL AIR/ RGB KEW
DOCTOR DOLITTLE
It’s been reported that artificial intelligence might allow us to decode the language of animals – unlocking a completely new mode of communication that cuts through species barriers. With new strides in AI technology, it poses the question: will we soon be able to talk with animals? Source: Guardian.
BABY BLOCKER The arrival of a male contraceptive pill might be imminent. Washington State University has made a ‘once in a decade discovery’, according to the research team, identifying the gene that causes sperm production – and discovering the means to blocking it. This opens the potential for a no- or low-side effect, nonhormonal and reversible contraception. Source: Nature Journal.
LOG THE EVIDENCE The ex-trade minister for Ukraine, Nataliya Mykolska, has founded an open-source database, Dattalion, to document war atrocities in the Russian-Ukrainian conflict. To date, over 5,000 videos and 23,000 photos have been logged by its dedicated volunteers. The company aims to create evidence for a future war tribunal. dattalion.com
WORLD-CHANGING STUFF Canopy, the not-for-profit protecting the world’s endangered forests, has received $60m to speed up its production of ‘Next Gen Solutions’. Canopy aims to reduce 1.3 billion tonnes of yearly emissions (almost double that of Germany) by recycling waste textiles and food scraps to create new fabrics, transforming supply chains. Some big brands are already on board, including Louis Vuitton, Zara, Gap, and Allbirds. nextgennow.ca
THE WOOD FOR THE TREES Careful grocery company, Bother, has some core principles: it’s committed to net zero across its entire supply chain, and capping pantry essentials at reasonable prices. And recently, it’s just planted over 100,000 trees – a significant achievement offsetting the emission of 3,526.62 tCO2e. bother.com
AND IN THE HEADLINES
YOU’RE GROUNDED Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport has banned private jets and night flights to lower greenhouse gas emissions and noise pollution. SMALL BUT HUNGRY A CO2-guzzling microbe has been found in a volcano on the Italian island Vulcano. GRASS IS GREENER An 887-acre seagrass bed has been discovered in Cornwall’s St Austell Bay – one of the largest in Britain. BUILD BETTER The Green Climate Fund has put $253.7 million towards infrastructure in Africa, to help its countries withstand the impact of a warming planet. May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 97
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CULTURE | Interview
Abi Morgan’s own life is as riveting as the dramas she’s scripted, says Charlotte Metcalf
A IN BRIEF COTTAGE OR PENTHOUSE?
Spiritually a cottage but mentally a penthouse DOG OR CAT?
Styler is our beloved labradoodle, north London’s most popular dog COUNTRY PUB OR MICHELIN STAR?
Pubs generally – I like the Bull and Last in Parliament Hill and the Notley Arms in Somerset GARDENING OR THEATRE?
Actors are my tribe, it has to be theatre DESIGNER CLOTHES OR COUNTRY CASUALS?
Most writers are just scruffy
PORTRAIT BY ALEXANDRA DAO
bi is no stranger to Scarfes because a scene in The Split was filmed here. The Split is the TV series Abi wrote about divorce lawyers, starring Nicola Walker and Stephen Mangan, which had me and countless others glued to our screens for weeks. Abi’s written many films and television series and her writing is so exquisitely observed and true to life that it has won her numerous accolades and awards, including an Emmy for The Hour, her series about the BBC in the 1950s starring Romola Garai, Ben Whishaw and Dominic West. Shame, Abi’s feature film with Steve McQueen about sex addiction, starring Michael Fassbender and Carey Mulligan, garnered more awards. Initially, Abi was not confident she could write: ‘My parents were in the theatre so it was natural for me to go into acting, but it was soon apparent that I was excruciating on stage.’ When she eventually wrote her first play, it won a competition at Croydon Theatre and success quickly followed. Her ideas come from listening and no snippet of idle chit-chat is wasted. The concept for The Split emerged while watching her children play hockey with another mum. ‘My parents divorced when I was 13 so I’d always absorbed the taboo of a broken home,’ Abi says, ‘but as I chatted to this mum about her job as a divorce lawyer, I saw there could be care around divorce which got me thinking.’ We chat about Brick Lane and Suffragette, about how she wishes there’d been a third series of The Hour and then about Shame and how different American attitudes are to sex addiction. However, we’re not at Scarfes to dissect her script-writing career but to talk about her book, This is Not a Pity Memoir, the shocking true story of her life unravelling. First, Jacob, Abi’s beloved life partner and father of her two children, collapses with brain damage brought on by MS drugs he was trialling. Jacob is hospitalised for over a year, during which time Abi undergoes chemotherapy and a mastectomy for vicious breast cancer. As Jacob regains consciousness, he recognises their children but refuses to acknowledge Abi as his partner, believing her to be a state-employed carer. Abi relates every detail of this litany of trauma, humiliation and woe with unwavering honesty. ‘I had to write to stay sane,’ she says. ‘I was writing the third series of The Split and screenwriting is very structured and mathematical, which helped. But I wrote the book differently. My normality was entirely punctured
and became a surreal nightmare. I approached it like a TV thriller and observed the scenes I was living through as if I were in a movie. That helped me to understand what was happening on a cellular level and dissipate the rage. The dramatist in me was even slightly revelling in it all.’ She records her own behaviour and emotions mercilessly, particularly the shame she felt after failing to thank Jacob during her Emmy acceptance speech for all his love and support. ‘Instead of acknowledging him I chose to please the audience by cracking a joke,’ she says. ‘It was a bad, split-second decision but I can’t undo it and I wanted to be as brutal and steely-eyed about myself as anyone else. It’s how I get closer to understanding the human condition.’ Though the memoir is a forensic examination of a woman and family under almost unendurable pressure, it’s ultimately a love story and ends with a knowing nod to Jane Austen. Abi’s ability to accept her relationship’s loss of romance and accept it in a different form is testament to her perseverance, optimism and unshakable – though sorely tested – belief in love, which has yielded an unexpected but happy situation. While life will never be the same, Jacob is back at home with Abi: ‘The children are at university and travelling so we’re empty-nesters and loving it. We never spent enough time together before I was pregnant and then had small children, without really knowing each other, so we drove each other insane. But now, Jacob’s wonderful sense of humour is back, he’s excited about life again and we’re amazed to feel the ground still under our feet.’ What strikes me most about Abi is how avidly she listens, relishing every detail. She has intensity and energy, driven by her capacity for joy and insatiable curiosity and appetite for life. ‘Yes, I do have this unbelievable sense of “OMG life is short”,’ she agrees. ‘I care a lot less about a lot of shit and I do try not to worry about the way I look. I mean I’m 5’1”, overweight, one-breasted, lopsided and carrying four years’ worth of scars. And as age looms, how do we stay transparent, relevant and visible?’ Hardly a major concern, given the exciting projects she’s planning, including directing the movie of her book. And if the film succeeds in being as truthful and transparent as the book, it too will be a profound lesson in how to endure, love and live to the full – and what could be more relevant than that? This is Not a Pity Memoir by Abi Morgan is out now in paperback (John Murray, £9.99) n
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Award-winning screenwriter Abi used her experience as a dramatist to translate harrowing real-life events into a memoir
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ALL’S WELL WITH ATWELL
With a starring role in the hotly anticipated Mission Impossible 7, Hayley Atwell tells LUCY CLELAND why working with Tom Cruise was a love story, but not as you know it FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER RACHELL SMITH
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Jacket and jeans Stella McCartney. Top Ahluwalia @ Matches Fashion. Shoes Alberta Ferretti. Bohemia polished expandable ring in yellow gold; Cabochon pink tourmaline ring 28.95ct in yellow gold Pragnell
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Jacket, shirt, trousers, necklace and heels Philosophy. Blacks briefs and bra Commando. LOVE earrings in 18ct yellow gold; Les Berlingots de Cartier ring in 18ct yellow gold with onyx and diamonds Cartier
first spied a now 41-year-old Hayley Atwell across a room ten years ago. She was sitting, as was I, contemplating yet another bowl of broth at a detox clinic in Austria. I was there for a pre-wedding blitz; she in preparation for her role in the TV adaptation of William Boyd’s Restless and needing to feel ‘on top form’ for the physicality of the role. Next day, I left a note on her table with my email asking her if she’d ever do a cover shoot with us. She kindly obliged. Rereading the interview that went with it, Hayley told me she had her sights set on becoming one of Hollywood’s leading ladies. Well, Hayley, boom. Squaring up to the world’s biggest movie star, Tom Cruise, in one of the world’s biggest franchises, Mission Impossible, is quite possibly as Hollywood as it gets. Ten years later, my interview with Hayley takes place on Zoom and we talk for the next hour and a half about working in a pandemic, early nights, books she’s reading (Birnam Wood by Eleanor Catton), the art of being useful, and, of course, Tom Cruise. But if you think she’s about to spill the beans on the on-off love affair you may have read about in the tabloids (they categorically were not
romantically involved, confirms Hayley – and besides, the day after our interview her current boyfriend, music producer Ned Wolfgang Kelly, announced their engagement on Instagram), think again. There’s undoubtedly love there, but one based on, yes, indubitable on-set chemistry, but also great teaching, huge generosity and gargantuan awe for the man who, she says, probably knows more about film-making than anyone else in the world. More of which later. In Mission Impossible 7, Hayley plays Grace, the second character on the call sheet after Ethan Hunt (Cruise’s hero that he’s reprising here 27 years after his first outing) in a film so big they had to split it in two. Dead Reckoning Part One (out this July) is four years in the making and promises more thrills and spills than ever before (including Tom’s most daredevil stunt yet – you can see a behindthe-scenes video of it on YouTube – it’s mindblowing), but also – you sense thanks to Hayley’s involvement – more emotion, nuance and comedy (although no one has seen the final cut yet – at the time of interview, it’s still unfinished). Grace was an undeveloped character in the minds of Tom and McQuarrie (affectionately called McQ by the cast), when Hayley was called to audition. But, whether consciously or not, it seems to be a role created just for her – and definitely by her. Like me, McQuarrie had first spied Hayley, this time on stage in The Pride, ten years ago. ‘He took me out for dinner afterwards and said, “There’s this thing that you have and this thing that you do and I want it in my movie. I don’t know what it is, but I want it.”’ That thing, it transpired, was ‘connection’, believes Hayley. He saw in her an ability that ‘allowed the audience to experience something for themselves that they related to in some way’. What this means for Mission 7 is that Hayley, Tom and McQuarrie could play with the character of Grace over and over again, filtering scenes through the lens of the camera to see what instinctively landed best for the movie-going audience. ‘I can understand why a lot of actors wouldn’t like not working with a script and changing things on a daily basis,’ smiles Hayley, ‘but I loved the freedom they gave me to discover Grace for myself.’ After all, there was no way Hayley was coming in as an archetype. Not for her the ‘femme fatale, the ice queen, the damsel in distress’. The past ten years have consolidated Hayley’s knowledge of what drives her. Whether it’s as Isabella in Measure for Measure at the Donmar (2018), Peggy Carter in the Marvel movies or Margaret Schlegel in the TV miniseries of Howard’s End (2016), what she’s looking for ‘is the moments of connection with an audience and collaborating with people as opposed to a particular genre or a particular medium or even a particular size of the film.’ This confidence (much of which she puts down to her theatre work of being able to play scenes in front of audiences night in, night out, each performance different), also allowed her to come into the ‘ensemble’ Mission franchise undaunted. ‘I know how I work, I know what I’m capable of and I know that I tend to quite courageously allow myself out of my comfort zone to try different things.’ It is, though, Tom and Hayley’s natural chemistry that will bring sub layers to these next two Mission movies. Naturally, every big stunt action beat is hit, but ‘the really fun, spontaneous way’ in which they worked together, ‘and how that lands on camera for the audience’ let us ‘discover the comedic side of Ethan Hunt, which is new. We also discovered that the more Grace plays cat and mouse, and not in a calculating way, but by
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what do I feel?” And so I think that comes from being very present, but it also comes from the humility to really be confronting with himself.’ These are not words that you’d automatically equate with the Tom we know and love from the silver screen. Humble, conscious, present, a student. It makes you begin to view him quite differently. ‘I suppose it’s rare because, you know, we are operating on such a high level of stakes in terms of the size of this movie and the fame that he [Tom] already has. But I think that’s where I see a lot of his courage as a human being – he retains that sort of childlike wonder, which has a wisdom to it, which is, “I don’t know, and I don’t know what I don’t know”. And to quote Socrates, “Wisest is he who knows he does not know.”’ Working on set with Tom and McQuarrie was essentially hugely liberating and creative for Hayley. ‘I felt very safe with them both, so I could try things and be like, I can’t fail because I’m safe. They allowed me to be more, I suppose, instead of me feeling shut down and therefore just doing the best I could in the limited kind of way that I was delivering it. Instead of feeling shamed for that and assuming that’s the only take I could give, they’re like, “Okay, how can we make her feel freer, safer? Let me ask the question directly of what she needs in this moment.”’ And when you’re doing the kind of stunts required for Mission, that safety can be a matter of life or death. It’s no secret that Tom does all his own stunts, but here Hayley too stepped up to the plate. ‘Tom’s mantra is “don’t be safe, be competent”, so if you trained well, and if you trained right and if the training also incorporated injury prevention and rest, then your body is capable of doing things. And so I think I took that very much as a mindset into my training as well. What could I do to add to this franchise that hadn’t been seen before and do it safely and competently?’ The answer was drifting – a driving technique where the Coat, top and trousers Chloé. driver intentionally oversteers, with loss of traction, while Hoop earrings in 18ct gold Tiffany & Co maintaining control of the car. For Hayley, apparently, it came ‘quite naturally’, although not without the odd hairy moment. A drifting scene in Rome, for example, where the light was fading, there were paps around and it had accident sort of embarrasses him, the funnier he becomes and the audience started to rain, could have been a close call. Hayley had Tom Cruise in like her.’ Not being a huge Mission fan myself, Hayley’s involvement really the passenger seat attached to her by a handcuff, ‘which is someplace makes me want to see this film. that metaphorically and literally Tom would never want to be, is in the And now to Tom Cruise and Chris McQuarrie – so tightly entwined passenger seat if someone else is, you know, driving.’ that they too could write their own love story. They’ve worked on four After 20 minutes of car stunts including umpteen 360-degree spins, Missions, as well as Tom’s projects Jack Reacher, Valkyrie, Edge of Tomorrow when Hayley finally stopped and stepped out of the car, the crew burst and, of course, the blockbusting Top Gun Maverick. They already have into applause. ‘Afterwards McQ took me out for lunch and he went, post-Mission plans to work together on a project that is ‘more and more “Tom has just put his life in your hands in this moment.”’ about emotion and real emotional experiences,’ as told by McQuarrie in That safety mattered too when rumours inevitably started circulating his 2022 interview on the Light the Fuse podcast. in the press about their romantic involvement. ‘I felt like if I ever was worried about it, I could talk to him [Tom]. And I know that he would’ve According to Hayley, ‘They are both real visionaries, their technical understanding and their knowledge of film is extraordinary – especially said, “People say whatever they want to say, but you know who you are, in the way they continue to study with what is very much a beginner’s I know who I am and I want you to feel safe in this environment.” It feels like there’s love in safety. ‘What I feel is the truly mind.’ She goes on to explain how they posit themselves as students of extraordinary power of platonic love, which seems to be sometimes film-making and are humble to what works and what doesn’t, rather under-represented. And my love for Tom, my love for McQuarrie, than enforcing their will upon it. How does she think they are able to put themselves in the audience’s my love for the process of this [Mission], and also the people who seat and disassociate from being Tom Cruise and Chris McQuarrie? they keep very close to them and who are very present on set, has ‘I asked Tom about this a couple of weeks ago [April 2023], when we a wholesomeness to it. That for me, I just found so beautiful, so, were shooting in the Arctic [other locations include Rome, Norway, yeah, I can freely say “I love this group of people.”’ Abu Dhabi and Yorkshire]. And he said, “I keep looking, keep looking. So there is a love story, just not the one we may have salivated for. What is looking back at it? What is this developing that third eye that’s But Hayley found her Hollywood ending just the same. going, okay, if I don’t know these people and I don’t know this world and I just sit back and I see what the frame is communicating with me, Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning Part 1 is out in cinemas from 12 July n 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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Shirt Etro. Jeans Stella McCartney. Sunglasses Zimmermann. Shoes Gina. Les Berlingots de Cartier ring 18ct yellow gold, onyx and diamonds; Panthène de Cartier bracelet in 18ct yellow gold, onyx, tsavorite garnets; Les Berlingots de Cartier ring in 18ct yellow gold, malachite and diamonds Cartier TEAM Makeup: Florrie White @ Bryant Artists using Westman Atelier. Hair: Leigh Keates @ The Wall Group. Video: Tracer Ital @ Adrenalin Photographic. Fashion Assistants: April McCarthy and Lara-Lily Hurd. Photographer’s assistants: Cam Smith and Ethan Humphries STOCKISTS: PAGE 196
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World number 13 Cameron Norrie has his sights set on the top spot in tennis
LOVE MATCH
PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK
Cameron Norrie is Britain’s chance of victory at Wimbledon this summer. But he’s not letting the pressure get to him, finds OLIVIA EMILY 108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK
O
ur British tennis number one has a Kiwi accent and a sunny disposition, smiling towards the future and its tournaments. Cameron Norrie has just moved to Monaco and is awaiting the Monte Carlo Masters – the beginning of clay season – when we speak on Zoom. Excited to get started, any doubts are dismissed with declarations of love for the sport. ‘It’s so addicting,’ he says. ‘You’re travelling to great cities, and if you win, it’s unreal. It’s like a drug.’ With over 1,800 professional male players, tennis is famously cut-throat. Currently ranked 13th in the world, does Cameron feel the pressure? ‘For me, it changes nothing,’ he says. ‘It just means there are 12 players better than me that I need to improve to beat.’ He recites his day-to-day training: jumping, sprinting, drills, physio and plenty of foam rolling. ‘It’s pretty mentally draining,’ he says. But travelling impacts Cameron most. ‘Even after being on the tour for six years, the flying gets to me every time.’ How, then, does he find balance in his life? It’s a simple reply with a wry smile: ‘There’s not much balance.’ But: ‘Tennis players have a lot of free time in the evening. I always have to eat, so we go to restaurants on tour and when anyone’s visiting. But I’m not the best rester,’ he admits. ‘I’m someone who wants to do everything. When I have free time, I play golf or padel – if I’m not chilling in my hotel room.’ Cameron has been enjoying Netflix’s Full Swing, a new golf docuseries following the PGA tour. ‘They’ve done such a good job with it.’ What does he think of Break Point, Netflix’s tennis version, both mirroring the wildly successful and popular F1: Drive to Survive? ‘It’s great for the sport,’ he says. ‘I just don’t like the way they make tennis seem not as professional as it actually is – like it’s a joke of a lifestyle. If you watch Andy Murray’s documentary [Andy Murray: Resurfacing, available on Amazon Prime] compared to that, it’s so professional.’ (Cameron is a big Andy fan – as is his Scottish father.) Would he star in Break Point if he was asked? ‘I don’t know if I would,’ he says. ‘It would be nice for them to find really hard working players to see how they train – but, in our sport, no one wants to give anything away!’ He also loves spending time at the beach, which is why Mexico’s tennis tournaments – Acapulco and Los Cabos – are among his favourites. But for his very favourite tournament, it’s back to rainy British shores for the Queen’s Club Championships. ‘I love being at home there. The whole grass season is just so special, and it leads up to Wimbledon, which I’m so excited for,’ he gushes. It’s striking to hear Cameron – who has lived in South Africa, New Zealand, the US, and now Monaco – describe the UK as ‘home’ so simply (especially in his Kiwi accent). With a UK-based family now, too, why make the move? ‘In London, the weather wasn’t great for certain training blocks,’ he explains. ‘There are so many good players in Monaco and, in the clay season, you can go between the tournaments pretty easily. Then, obviously, the tax helps as well,’ he grins. ‘But mainly the weather. You
can play outside almost every day with great facilities and on great courts. ‘It was a big move, but I’m feeling good about it,’ he adds. ‘I love London and I’ll go there for Wimbledon and the grass season, so it’s not like it’s permanent.’ Before Monaco, Cam lived in Putney, where he cycled to tournaments and training at Roehampton’s National Tennis Centre to avoid traffic. ‘It became part of my warm up,’ he says. ‘And then I thought, I’m saving a lot of money doing this.’ He also realised it’s more eco than Ubering everywhere. ‘Tennis players are not the best for the environment. We fly a lot. But I’m trying to do what I can,’ he says, travelling by train where possible, including to Rotterdam, between Lyon and Paris and from Beijing to Shanghai. ‘I really feel good on the train,’ he says. ‘It’s more comfortable, you don’t have to check in, you can get there later... Even if it can be more expensive, I always prefer it.’ It’s this every-little-helps technique Cameron believes in most. ‘If everyone can take that approach to sustainability and the environment, it’s the best thing we can do. I’m trying my best. I know I’m way worse than a lot of people, but it is what it is.’ Would he ever try vegetarianism, I ask? ‘It would be really tough, trying to get enough protein,’ he ponders. ‘I think I could. I’d have to be really organised. Maybe after tennis,’ he says. And what comes after tennis? ‘I have no idea!’ Perhaps he could pursue professional golf? ‘I’m nowhere near playing on the Senior PGA Tour or anything, but I don’t know. I’ll have to see. I want to give everything to tennis first – to get every ounce of talent out that I can. The ultimate goal is to be world number one. I’m going to do everything it takes to get it, and if I do, that’s great. At the end of the day, I’m going to just try my hardest.’ See Cameron play at the Queen’s Club Championships from 19-25 June, and at Wimbledon from 3-16 July. n
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In her new memoir The Potter’s Way, Florence explores how pottery was key to recovering from illness
The Power OF CLAY
Florence St George lost herself to post-natal depression – and found herself again thanks to pottery. She tells her story to AMY WAKEHAM May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 111
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F
rom the outside it looked like Florence St George lived a charmed life. Blessed with beauty, intelligence and drive, she modelled and acted her way through her twenties, dating princes and Formula 1 champions, covering Tatler magazine, appearing on all the society party pages, and generally having a ball. It culminated in a beautiful white wedding in the south of France in 2013 to Henry St George. But her life lost its fairytale façade a year after, following the birth of her first child, Iris. Florence, or Flea as she’s known, recalls her journey into post-natal depression and back again in her new memoir-meetsself-help-manual, The Potter’s Way, in which she explores From top: Florence in her Bahamas studio; some one-off mugs; she how working with clay became key to her recovery. credits the pottery community We connect through Zoom, Florence dialling in with supporting and inspiring her from the sunny Bahamas, where she lives with her family (Henry is vice president of The Grand Bahamas Port Authority) and me from rainy old London. In person she’s witty, thoughtful, and incredibly well read – all of which can be seen in the pages of The Potter’s Way, which is packed with citations to her reading around the subjects of anxiety, self-help, and creativity. The first of which is, of course, the book’s title, referencing the famous Artist’s Way by Julia Cameron, which guides people to harness their creative skills. ‘My mum, who is an artist, always had it by the loo,’ laughs Florence. She continues: ‘My initial title was From Prozac to Pottery but that was very much vetoed, which is totally fair enough’. In The Potter’s Way she is clear that it was a combination of pottery and medication that helped her recover from her severe post-natal depression. She writes about her illness in a very matter-of-fact way. ‘That first night in hospital, somewhere inside my tired body and fuzzy brain, I knew something was not right with me,’ she remembers of the time directly after giving birth in July 2014. ‘Now, I recognise this momentary unease was the beginning of a depression 112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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that would evolve into something much darker.’ She continues: ‘Symptoms of PND can descend like fog on a winter’s day. Sudden, brutal and blocking out the sun. Or, they can be gradual, more like snowfall, where each tiny flake adds to the mass and before you know it you’re in deep. By the end of the summer, I knew I wasn’t right. That niggle in the hospital had mushroomed into full-blown panic.’ She became plagued by anxious thoughts of planes falling out of the sky and bus fumes poisoning her baby. She hid them from her family as she didn’t want them to think her ‘mad and hysterical’. Later on, she felt overcome with anger and frustration. By Christmas 2014, Henry encouraged her to seek professional help, and Florence was referred to a psychiatrist. The doctor asked her what she enjoyed doing. ‘All I could feel was emptiness,’ she writers. ‘“I don’t know,” I said, because there were no words in my head and my heart felt numb.’ He prescribed her Prozac, which Florence credits for helping her ‘climb out of the deep, dark well and feel like my old self again’. Slowly she got into a routine with Iris, and felt more at peace. Little did she know, she had stumbled into to what she explains in The Potter’s Way was a ‘fertile void’ – a term that describes the creative energy that can be found in life’s quiet in-between moments – and discovered pottery. ‘Think of it [the fertile void] as a kind of gap year for the soul or a magical mystery tour to a happier you,’ writes Florence. She started watching The Great Pottery Throw Down while Iris was asleep, and was inspired to sign up to some classes. ‘When I first sat down with a lump of clay, something inside me burst open and I felt alive again,’ she writes. Her experience is reflected in science: in The Potter’s Way Florence cites neuroscientist Dr Kelly Lambert, who has carried out studies with rats and humans that show that being engaged in effort-based activities and keeping your hands busy at things like crafts actually increases serotonin and oxytocin levels, combating depression. Just as Florence was discovering the healing power of pottery, she fell pregnant again with son Jimmy, who became seriously ill with bronchiolitis when he was only two weeks old. This time, it was a combination of Prozac and clay that helped her cope. A few years later, after honing her technique and building her confidence, Florence found herself signing up to The Great Pottery Throw Down. ‘It was one among many turning points in my life,’ she tells me. ‘It was really out of my comfort zone doing something like that. Post having babies, I hated photographs taken of me – it was really weird. And as they filmed me from all angles, I thought, “why am I doing this?” This is not why I signed up for pottery. I did it because I wanted a gentle past time. But it was the best thing I ever did. I think it’s a real lesson for me, because I’m always tempted to just cocoon myself.’ One of the best things to come out of Throw Down was that she was finally being recognised on her own terms, without superficial labels. ‘In my twenties I was always known as a lingerie model, or someone’s girlfriend, and then I was someone’s ex-girlfriend, and I was never…’ she pauses, thinking of the right word. ‘What’s really amazing is that I’m doing all these interviews about Florence as a potter. And that feels empowering. It’s extraordinary.’
From top: Florence on the beach in the Bahamas with some of her one-off pieces; bowls from her collaboration with Monica Vinader
Post-Throw Down, Florence threw herself into her pottery, and turned her hobby into a flourishing business. As well as her own distinctive one-of-a-kind pieces, inspired by the colours, nature and landscape of the Bahamas, she has collaborated with artists like Hugo Guinness, and recently the jeweller Monica Vinader, on a collection inspired by island sunsets. In the pottery world she has found a community of like-minded people, something else that she writes in The Potter’s Way that is also key to health and happiness. This summer, Florence and her family will leave the Bahamas, and move back to the UK – Oxfordshire to be precise. Then the long-term dream is to set up a pottery academy, where she can share what she’s learnt in the last decade with a new cohort of potters. From reading The Potter’s Way and chatting to Florence, it’s clear that creating pottery is an almost spiritual experience for her – a way of accessing her authentic self. ‘I believe that finding your identity is a crucial part of healing from depression,’ she writes in her book. Through the process of shaping clay, Florence uncovered the substance of who she really is – with no fairytales in sight. The Potter’s Way is out now (Short Books, £16.99). Florence is in conversation at the Hay Festival on 1 June 2023. hayfestival.com n May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 113
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FORMING TOMORROWS With the opening of their new centre, artists Gilbert & George discuss the privilege of freedom, the democratisation of art and being fans of the new King Charles with MARYAM EISLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARYAM EISLER
ME: Here we are today in celebration of your soon-to-be-launched
foundation, The Gilbert & George Centre [which launched post interview on 1 April]. Tell me about your legacy. G&G: We don’t think about it. We think more and more about the power of culture. In the Western world, there was a triumph, in that you can go anywhere, stop a complete stranger on the street, and say, ‘Charles Dickens’, and whether they’ve read the book or not, they will recognise the name. ‘Vincent van Gogh’ is the same. It doesn’t matter whether they’ve seen the painting or not. And that’s what makes us safe and free. Not the policeman, not the priest, but the cultivated West. We’re all spoiled brats here. Being free is not everywhere in the world, only in some territories. ME: And don’t we, here in the West, take safety and freedom for granted? G&G: Yes. It’s an enormous privilege that has been fought for, on our behalf, with strain, blood and tears. ME: Talk to me about this area of East London where you live and work. G&G: We always believe in the past, the present and the future, all rolled into one. That’s our world. We’re living on a French Huguenot street [Fournier Street] in the middle of London. It’s built on a Roman cemetery. The next street is called Wilkes Street, named after the first man to have had the idea of free press. He had it right. And we artists have chosen to express ourselves with our art, right here, while we are alive. ME: To express yourselves, yes. But surely, also to have a dialogue with all who surround you? G&G: Yes. It’s the art that attracts the people. We want a reaction in front of all our pictures. We want the viewer to think and to feel different… I’m glad we were able to make our art visually so powerful. ME: You’re looking for that punch in the gut, through image and word? G&G: We always wanted to create an art that didn’t eliminate 80 per cent of the world's population, which a lot of other art does. We want our pictures to speak to whatever the viewer’s educational background or nationality may be. We want our art to have that human message. ME: …and the observer takes what they wish to from the experience? G&G: Yes. We want viewers to find themselves. On the simplest level, if you buy a crime book, you can side with either the police or the robbers. It needs to be that simple. ME: The fact that you are setting up this wonderful centre and that it is free for all is indeed very important. It’s about democratisation of art and offering accessibility to all. 114 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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Gilbert & George holding one of the many hand-painted prints to celebrate the King’s Coronation (left) and standing proud in front of the gates of The Gilbert & George Centre they designed on Heneage Street
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G&G: After all, that’s what we have been doing now for 55 years. It’s been
a long journey, and they told us, ‘You will never last’!
ME: So what do you tell ‘them’ now? G&G: We don’t tell ‘them’ anything. They’re all dead and we’re still here! ME: Hence my question about legacy; you said you don't really care about
it, but in a sense, through this foundation, you are creating a lasting legacy.
G&G: You are right. We also have all these ‘difficult’ pictures that many
institutions are afraid to show and collectors afraid to buy. But they belong to us. So, this is where we want to show them. We equally realise, more and more, that the world was an entirely different place when we emerged as baby artists in the 60s. And, we’d like to think that we played a small part in that change. The one thing that everyone, all over the world, would agree with, is that there is always room for improvement. ME: That may be so. Yet, I would argue that you both have somewhat remained in tact and intent in the way that you dialogue with the world, in that everything you say is based on truth and honesty. You say it as it is, without necessarily taking into account what the world or the art world would like you to say. G&G: A lot of journalists think that we reflect life or show life. And we say: ‘No, we want to form our tomorrows, and we want our tomorrow to be a little bit different. And this, because people saw those pictures or saw our exhibition. If we speak the truth, that’s important. It’s about ‘Truth, Beauty, Power’ [Christopher Dresser’s motto]. ME: What about religion? G&G: We are more involved with religion than many of our contemporaries, because a lot of artists felt that religion was something that was finished and dead. That they were too sophisticated and didn't need to bother with it. The fact is that we feel we should bother with it, because it is an enormous subject in the world. As we speak, there are people lying in hospitals with bullets in their heads, waiting to see whether they’re going to recover or not, and all this because of religion. Ban religion, we say. Religion always invented these fake moralities for thousands of years, in order to empower itself. We believe in human morality but not one which has been imposed by fake gods.
Gilbert & George standing in the window of Bangladeshi sweet shop Rajmahal, located on Brick Lane in the heart of the East End (top) and again on Brick Lane, in front of Christ Church Primary School
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It’s like the day when we were sitting in the front room of the house. And we heard a feeble knock. We opened the door and there was an elderly clergyman. And he said, ‘I'm sorry to trouble you, gentlemen. I couldn't resist knocking on your door.’ He said, ‘I just saw that thing you did called “Ban Religion” and I think it is marvellous’. And we said, ‘Okay, perhaps you can explain why you felt that way.’ He said, ‘I'm getting on in years now, and I still have my congregation at the church every Sunday. They’re all very nice people. Most of them are friends of mine. And they're all very religious, but I didn't really ever want them to be religious. I just wanted them to be good.’ ME: Two big events are about to happen [or have just happened] in the near future. One is the opening of your foundation, and the other is The Coronation. G&G: Yes! King Charles! He is our favourite royal, because he has been more engaged in real subjects than any other royal, especially when compared to politicians who often have the wrong motives. We also felt we should do something for the King [hand-painted banners] as most people in the art world do not like the monarchy. The monarchy is a great institution. ME: What themes are you exploring with your upcoming exhibitions? G&G: We will have ‘The Corpsing Pictures’ at White Cube in London in April, and ‘The Paradisical Pictures’ for the opening of the foundation. We are also doing a show in New York at Lehmann Maupin and another show in West Palm Beach with White Cube. ME: What about these ‘The Paradisical Pictures’? What are they about? GILBERT: When thinking of the ‘The Paradisical Pictures’, we say most people see paradise as the after-party. And we are using it in reverse. We’re starting with paradise here on earth, so we call it the pre-cum party! ME: Is there a paradise on earth? GILBERT: I think there is. I think we found paradise right here, don’t you think George? GEORGE: It’s not about paradise; it’s about what people are thinking and feeling about that subject. The exhibition is for people who believe in the afterlife but also for people who don't believe in it at all. ME: Tell me about your underlying thoughts regarding ‘The Corpsing Pictures’. All these bones! G&G: It’s an extraordinary field of interest because ‘The Corpsing Pictures’ have two meanings. One is a theatrical term, when somebody loses their speech, but also used by young people. ‘Corpsing’ means dead bodies. The reality is that if you go very early in the morning to walk through London, you will see foxes walking into the city from the country to find bones. How long does it take that fox to walk in from Essex? And then an hour later, the skies are filled with sea birds, gulls… How long does it take them to fly in from the coast? And they too are looking for bones. It's extraordinary, isn’t it! ME: There must also be, of course, the idea of life and death, existential anguish, the human condition. Would you agree? G&G: Yes. To see the bones. To confront them. Even George said, he chipped his bone! Did you chip your bone, George? [said with a laugh.] ME: You have taken a conscious decision to simplify this series with two colours only, gold and red. G&G: We started creating the pictures and the pictures wouldn't let us bring any other colours in. It was very simple. The golden soles of the shoes… We liked the golden shoe because of the legend of Dick Whittington. The legend has it that he walked into London because he heard that the streets were paved with gold. And, of course, he arrived and soon found out that they weren't paved with gold at all. But he, from his own effort, went on to become Lord Mayor of London. That’s how it should work.
‘We always wanted to create an art that didn’t eliminate 80 per cent of the world’s population, WHICH A LOT OF OTHER ART DOES Cravats (2022), above, from ‘The Corpsing Series’. One of three exhibition spaces in The Gilbert & George Centre, showing works from ‘The Paradisical Pictures’ (this image). Gilbert & George standing in front of Thrice from The Paradisical Pictures, below
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Gilbert & George, standing in front of The Gilbert & George Centre, with the Himalayan Magnolia tree on the left and the Ginkgo tree on the right
It cost us altogether £11 million: £5 million spent on buying it and £6 million doing it. It was a rundown brewery and a lady who used to design fabrics lived here. When she died, we bought it. Can you believe… We looked everywhere, for years, and then one day we found it right in front of our door. For us, this place is perfect. Not so big and not so small. And we’re in the heart of Brick Lane. What else can you ask for! ME: On a final note, I am intrigued by the story behind the two solitary trees in the courtyard of your foundation – perhaps a reflection on you both? G&G: One is a Himalayan Magnolia tree [on the left] and the other is a Ginkgo tree. We first saw the Himalayan Magnolia tree at a museum in Tasmania with a man from the museum named Ron. He was half Syrian, half Scottish. We liked it so much, we bought one. Last week, we thought, let’s take a photograph and send it to Ron. Our message to him cross-coincided with his death. How extraordinary! Once they bloom, these flowers look like human hearts… The Ginkgo tree we first saw when in New York, and we’d never seen one before. We collected a lot of their leaves and pressed them in the pages of the hotel telephone directory. And then, being idiot Protestant Christians, we thought, we can’t steal their telephone directory. So we bought some adult magazines and put them inside, all the while thinking, ‘Will they catch us for the adult magazines?’... We had these in our case. Next thing you know, we saw Ginkgo leaves on our [London] street. And thought, how could they have come out of this case? That’s when we actually realised that there have been Ginkgo trees in this district forever! It’s all to do with context.
‘BAN RELIGION, we say. Religion always invented these fake moralities for thousands of years, in order to empower itself. We believe in HUMAN MORALITY but not one which has been imposed by FAKE GODS’ ME: You have also used a lot of rope, strings and chains in this series. Is this because we all are prisoners of our existence? G&G: It’s because we all have ties. We are all connected. ME: Talk to me about the new book, The Meaning of the Earth, by Wolf Jahn that is about to be published. G&G: It’s very good. Chapter one is called ‘Meditation on Three Words’. And the three words are, ‘Fuck The Teachers’. It's the part of oneself that we all have to overcome, in order to go forward morally, intellectually, and education-wise. And that chapter deals with that issue in a very good way. ME: Speaking of education, what are your thoughts about AI and it replacing traditional education? G&G: Everyone is talking about it. But we are not going to be here to see what happens when ‘they’ come. Maybe they're here already and we are just not able to see ‘them’. ME: Can you share your thoughts on our current ‘woke’ culture? G&G: Oh, it's fine. They do whatever they want. We do whatever we want. ME: You have even been criticised of setting up your own exhibition space because you want to say things your way and not fall into the trap of having to tick art world ‘requirement’ boxes? G&G: It would be more correct to say we did it this way because we want to live forever, like everybody else. We do things how we want it. We say there’s the Tate. There’s the National Gallery. There’s the British Museum, the Imperial War Museum… and then, there’s this place. ME: How did you find it and how much did it cost you to build it?
G&G:
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HOW TO AGE WELL NOW
THE AESTHETIC GUIDE Edited by ANNABEL JONES
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
Contents 126
WHAT’S HOT?
129
KEEPING YOUR COOL
135
THE POWER OF ONE
140
AND JUST LIKE THAT
144
HERE COMES THE GROOM
The latest aesthetic news Female hormone health comes under the microscope Clare Coleman on the super hardworking creams Is tight, bright skin the ultimate status symbol?
The rise (and rise) of the male tweakment 148
BRUSHING IT UNDER THE CARPET
Brigid Moss on the therapies that help combat hair loss 153
TRIED & TESTED
163
ON CALL
Our beauty team put ten treatments to the test Doctors’ directory
FASHION TEAM Styling: Ursula Lake. Photography: Matthew Shave. Hair: Craig Taylor. Make-Up: Sonia Deveney. Nails: Cherrie Snow. Models: Gia Tang @ Milk Management (on cover: wears dress by A.L.C. at Net-a-Porter, earrings by David Morris) and Kayla Walter @ Storm (top right: wears dress by Georgia Hardinge). For stockists, see p196.
Editor’s LETTER
W
elcome to the Country & Town House Aesthetic Guide, your cut-out-and-keep book of cosmetic news, treatment reviews and features on thought-provoking topics about ageing well. This issue, we’ve explored the new and improved ways to restore hair loss from topical products to use at home to emerging technologies that are showing vast improvements from those of old. There’s our ultimate guide to achieving clear, taute skin with collagen-boosting lasers, lifting facials and stealth injectables (p140). I’ve written about the complex issue of female hormone health and the myriad solutions from HRT to nutrition that can help abate age-accelerating symptoms (p129). Our experts have reviewed ten of the best aesthetic procedures targeting everything from face to bottom (p153), and we’ve updated our directory of vetted aesthetic practitioners with new entries (p163). Of course, beautiful skin at every age should include a smart skincare regime which we’ve covered in our feature on the return of the super cream (p135). Enjoy!
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AN EXPERT IN THE NATURAL LOOK Award-winning Doctor Nyla Raja is a trusted dermatology GP and skin specialist. She has practiced medicine for over 20 years and has delivered over 200,000 transformational aesthetic journeys, earning the admiration of industry experts worldwide. Doctor Nyla is the Founder and Medical Director of The Medispa Group and has been honored with the Best Cosmetic Clinic award for 2019/2020 and nominated for Best Cosmetic Doctor in 2021. Clinics feature state-of-the-art equipment including EmFace, Morpheus8, and Ultherapy. The Medispa Group boasts the largest Exilis Elite skin tightening and Ultracel clinic in the UK, and the second largest CoolSculpting clinic in Europe. In addition to being pioneering leaders in facial skin rejuvenation, we also offer permanent body sculpting treatments using Coolsculpting Elite and the Emerald laser, as well as Lipocell.
The Transformation FaceliftTM is our number one signature medical treatmen Bespoke to each patient and developed by Doctor Nyla herself, exclusively offered at her clinics. This advanced treatment combines a range of incredible anti-aging techniques, in which you will see visible improvement for up to six months, with results lasting for up to 2-3 years. Doctor Nyla’s Transformation Facelift™ provides a rejuvenating experience that leaves patients looking and feeling ten years younger in just six weeks!
Mayfair clinic
FOLLOW US ON
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Clinics in Mayfair | Cheshire | Crosby @DOCTORNYLA | 0162 552 3307 | 0800 009 6661
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Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh
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drsebagh.com
Dr Sebagh London Clinic Chandos House Queen Anne Street London W1G 9LQ
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WHAT’S HOT?
Annabel Jones brings you the latest aesthetic updates to get you summer ready EAR US OUT
Sarah Bradden’s facial acupuncture treatments are like therapy for your face. But her ear seeding? Now that really is something. Bradden places crystals on points around the ear that directly correspond to specific organs, emotions and other systems in the body. The crystals – that look as good as they act – are active for up to five days after the treatment and help to induce a sense of calm, balance, recovery, energy, or anti-ageing depending on your chosen preference. £60, sarahbradden.com
HERE COMES THE IV
Wedding wellness programmes are gaining momentum. Whether you are bride, groom or guest, reside in the country or town, Bamford’s Wellness Spa at Brompton Cross and in the Cotswolds is offering Effects Doctors medicinal IV drips and IM (intramuscular) injections to help boost energy and recover after the big day. Choose from 14 vitamin concoctions including a Biotin shot, £75, to help grow and strengthen nails and hair and B-rejuvenated IV, £325, to help cure a hangover. bamford@effectdoctors.com
Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream
HOLY GLOW
We want a healthy glow, but not from the sun, so swap your blush for a bronzer, but make it count. Hermès (refillable) Healthy Glow Mineral Powder (£87, hermes.com) is so finely milled it leaves behind a veil of sun-kissed iridescence that could easily pass for the real thing. Jones Road The Bronzer (£32, jonesroadbeauty. com) gives a no-bronzer-bronzer look that’s perfect for mature skin and can be used as an all-over skin tint or colour corrector to knock back sallowness. Of course, if you prefer a dewy finish then there’s nothing better than Chanel Les Beige Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream, which now comes in a mini 15ml travel size (£37, chanel.com).
GET SNATCHED
Social media is responsible for some questionable beauty trends, but this viral facial toning device by NuFACE is one we can’t put down. A credible way to define one’s facial contours from the comfort of your couch, NuFACE Trinity+ uses microcurrent technology to help tighten the skin, which studies show can enhance collagen production. Apply the accompanying gel to the face and neck and move the applicator around areas you wish to target, such as lips, brow bones, neck and jaw. It takes 30 days to reap the results, which are subtle but undeniable. £385, currentbody.com 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AESTHETICS
Dr Barbara Sturm’s (left) wildly successful anti-inflammatory skincare is just one arm of her passions that date back to the 1990s, when she began practising regenerative aesthetic medicine, treating patients with PRP (platelet-rich plasma) long before we came to know about it. Now, at her Mount Street clinic, you can book in for one of her aesthetic treatments ranging from Morpheus8 (£950) to Profhilo (£600), and PRP (£550), along with unique science-led skin treatments like her Exoso-metic Growth Factor Facial (£500), harnessing medical-grade exosomes to regenerate radiance and vibrancy. Or, you could just buy her newest product, the Antiageing Body Scrub, £90. en.drsturm.com
Healthy Cream
FILLING IN FOR FILLER
Berkshire Aesthetics is one clinic at the forefront of non-surgical procedures. One of the first to offer the innovative new injectable, Nucleadyn, this smart biostimulator helps to restore the skin’s own capacity to heal itself. Without wishing to sound too sciencey, it works by delivering polynucleotides (polymerised nucleotides that naturally occur within our bodies and play a role in regenerating tissue structure) into the skin. Unlike traditional fillers which reinstate facial structure by effectively padding out the areas that have lost volume, Nucleadyn prompts a natural restoration process of the facial structure, while protecting against free radicals and improving blood flow through oxygenation, all of which equates to better skin quality, a reduction in fine lines, and firmer, tighter, bouncier skin – within minutes. It can even improve under eye dark circles, without side effects or the puffiness that can occur with hyaluronic acid filler. No argument from us here. Two to three treatments are recommended for the best results, spaced four weeks apart. From £450, berkshire aesthetics.com
WHO’S MOVING IN?
The new clinic openings to check out and check into DR ASHWIN SONI Merging wellness and aesthetics, plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Ashwin Soni is now offering his surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures at Bodyspace Knightsbridge, for a 360-degree approach to ageing well. thesoniclinic.com
DR DAVID JACK Dr David Jack has opened doors to his second clinic in Belgravia offering injectables, energy procedures, facials and professional skin consultations with renowned dermatologist, Dr Catherine Borysiewicz (above). drdavidjack.com
THE LUNCHTIME SMILE MAKEOVER
White glossy teeth can easily cost you the price of a Birkin, but not if you book in at a Sonisk Smile dental parlour (sonisk.com), an accessible service founded by Professor Dr Edward Lynch, who’s been named as one of the world’s Top 100 Doctors in Dentistry. Offering appointments for £99, along with safe at-home teeth whitening for £29.99, this is one answer to the worrying rise in illegal bleaching products that can ruin tooth enamel. Elsewhere, celebrity dentist Dr Rhona Eskander is providing costeffective ceramic bonding (similar to veneers but less commitment) with each tooth costing £495 at her practice in London’s Chelsea Dental Clinic (chelseadentalclinic.co.uk).
DR SEBAGH Dr Sebagh has moved to its historical new flagship location Chandos House in Marylebone where clients can experience his pioneering cosmetic treatments in splendorous surroundings. drsebagh.com
DR PATRICK MALLUCCI Dr Patrick Mallucci’s new Mayfair clinic has introduced a ‘face ID guarantee’ to ensure clients receive natural looking enhancements that won’t cause glitches with their smartphone’s facial recognition technology. Who knew? patrickmallucci.com n
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PR O M OT I O N Using 3D imaging and ultrasound, Dr Rhobaye can take super-precise measurements
SWEET HARMONY
With his artistic flair, surgical expertise and advanced technology, Dr Dean Rhobaye’s full facial harmonisation procedure gives truly transformative results
‘N
eurotoxins and fillers are easy to inject but very difficult support and structure, followed by refinements to facial to get right,’ says Dr Dean Rhobaye from Sloane Clinic, contours and proportions while reducing mild facial sagging Harley Street. The world’s best injectors, he continues, and minimising wrinkles. come from a facial surgical background. ‘One needs to Taking a holistic, bespoke approach, Dr Rhobaye prides understand the biomechanics of the tissue and how himself on the subtlety of his results which come courtesy opposing muscles interplay with one another. Each patient’s of his artistic acumen. A keen sculptor, Dr Rhobaye’s eye anatomy is unique – we all have largely the same muscles but for proportion is undoubtedly a differentiating factor in his the shape, density and orientation is individual – and how the arsenal of expertise. The best in class in facial harmonisation, muscles express themselves is different again,’ he explains Dr Rhobaye is an award winning practitioner having received His advanced full facial harmonisation procedure involves the highest accolade at the Aesthetic & Anti-aging Medicine a delicate combination of neurotoxin (Botox) and facial filler, World Congress (AMWC) for his work using advanced injected strategically and sympathetically to optimise features, injectable techniques. But it is his patients who provide him smooth contours and define facial structure in a natural-looking with the most rewarding feedback. way so that patients look the best versions of themselves. Staving off unnecessary facial surgery for minimallyUsing state-of-the-art 3D and ultrasound imaging invasive techniques that offer exceptional results, his advanced technology, Dr Rhobaye carefully injectable procedures are highly plans and monitors his treatments sought after, not least because to optimise results and maximise they last. ‘There is evidence now patient safety. For neurotoxins, to suggest that facial filler is more he uses dynamic mapping to permanent than we first thought, assess each patient, taking precise potentially giving long-lasting measurements that inform his results that do not need to be injection points, depending on the continuously topped up. The key pattern of wrinkles and bulk and is knowing how, where and who to expression of the musculature. inject and when not to.’ Carried out gradually over multiple sessions to allow Dr Dean Rhobaye, Sloane Clinic, for progressive, strategic 10 Harley St, London W1. The harmonisation procedure involves enhancements beginning with an 020 7340 1488; sloaneclinic.co.uk; Botox and filler strategcally combined initial phase of filler that provides @deanrhobaye
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
KEEPING YOUR COOL Optimising female hormone health takes a prescriptive approach, but the answers aren’t always obvious, says ANNABEL JONES
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
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he menopause transition is finally drawing the attention it deserves, so why are we still confused? Alas, shining a spotlight on a condition that millions of women previously faced in silence is only the beginning. There’s a dearth of knowledge about just how pervasive an effect low oestrogen, in particular, can have on a woman’s physical and psychological health, beyond hot flashes and vaginal dryness – the two most flippantly bandied about symptoms. Except, the menopause is no joke. I hate to be alarming, but lesser known side effects can include anxiety, insomnia, brain fog, low mood/libido/energy, tingling extremities, stress incontinence… The list (sadly) goes on, due to the fact that there are oestrogen receptors on every cell in the body, therefore when levels drop you could be facing a tsunami of symptoms (at least 34), which go undetected. On the bright side, it is possible to reach status quo by taking hormone replacement therapy, though HRT is not for everyone. What is encouraging about managing menopause today is the supporting role that lifestyle tweaks can have on symptoms from skincare to nutrition and supplements.
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FINDING AN ACTUAL EXPERT
Hot flushes are just one of 34 symptoms associated with the menopause Bracelet David Morris
As someone who’s spent six years trying to make sense of the vacillating advice I’ve been given concerning my own hormone levels, it is worth knowing that GPs, despite their best attempts, are not necessarily menopause specialists. Neither are many gynaecologists, I hasten to add. ‘Menopause is a sub-specialism. You need the necessary training to understand the complexity of HRT and the underlying conditions that could be at play,’ says consultant gynaecologist Anne Henderson from The Amara Clinic (gynae-expert.co.uk), who is a longstanding member of the British Menopause Society (thebms.org.uk), which provides a list of practitioners who have completed post graduate training and research in the subject of menopause. ‘Every woman should ask to be referred to a BMS accredited specialist,’ explains Dr Henderson who has recently opened an accredited menopause clinic in Tunbridge Wells in conjunction with The Cosmetic Skin Clinic, tackling the totality of concerns women face during the menopause transition including, among other things, aesthetic treatments. May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 129
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PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
Put a patch on it... although HRT isn’t for everyone Bikini, Dodo Bar Or. Bracelet and ring, David Morris
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AESTHETIC GUIDE What one has to do with the other largely boils down to the two c’s: confidence and collagen. ‘There is often this cliff-edge moment when women come to see me with skin concerns related to the menopause transition. They’re sleeping less and looking more tired, experiencing dryness and skin laxity, all of which affects not only their looks but their self esteem,’ explains aesthetic doctor of the year, Dr Sophie Shotter (drsophieshotter.com). Consequently, she has trained in hormone therapy to offer it alongside aesthetic medicine. ‘During the consultation process it would often become clear that there was more going on than just facial ageing – by testing and treating a woman’s hormone health I can address the whole person, not just their appearance,’ she says.
THE MINEFIELD OF HRT
Six years ago, aged 43, I began experiencing debilitating insomnia, heart palpitations Eve Kalinik and a cacophony of mystery symptoms I now recommends a know were the result of the perimenopause. When Mediterranean diet a blood test eventually confirmed the triple threat of female sex hormones: oestrogen, progesterone and testosterone were drastically low ‘for my age’, I was prescribed HRT, a basic packet of pills containing a sequential dose of oestradiol and dydrogesterone, a progestin. Through my own research I later switched to body identical hormones in a transdermal preparation, except for in the case of progesterone which I take daily in a tablet on the advice of consultant gynaecologist Tania Adib, who explained the difference between the pill I’m taking now (Utrogestan) and the synthetic progestin I was prescribed initially. Progesterone is a naturally occurring hormone in the body, whereas progestin is a synthetic, lab-created hormone that is designed to mimic progesterone. While progesterone isn’t responsible for the vast majority of menopause symptoms, it is key to protecting the lining of the womb and helps to maintain calm and relaxation when taken at night. Alongside progesterone, Dr Henderson says Lenzetto, a spray form of estradiol that can be progressively increased in dose, is a new-gen formulation that’s more precise than gels. Another way to take oestrogen transdermally is through a patch, though Dr Henderson points out that not all patches are created equal and highlights Estradot, a tiny discrete sticker that delivers a ‘naturally Dr Sophie Shotter occurring form’ of oestrogen through the skin. Testosterone has hit headlines recently as it has a role to play in improving drive and libido, however it is not yet licensed for use in the UK as a menopause treatment, therefore it needs to be prescribed by a doctor through a compounded pharmacy at your own risk. Many doctors stand by compounded medications, yet some remain sceptical, like Dr Henderson, who prefers to err on the side of caution. She imports Androfeme - ‘the only body identical testosterone’ - from Australia to prescribe to her clients, if required.
OPTIMISE YOUR NUTRITION
Shotter works in conjunction with a nutritionist who specialises in hormone imbalances, gut health and unexplained weight gain (a confidence-robbing side effect of menopause), referring her patients when relevant to nutritionist Pippa Campbell (pippacampbellhealth. com) who runs an all-female practice that helps identify and treat the root cause of women’s hormone, weight and gut issues through thorough testing. Gut health specialist Eve Kalinik adds that while nutrition should ideally be personalised and identified by thorough hormone analysis, gut (stool) tests and bloodwork to pinpoint specific dietary gaps or underlying health conditions, such as an underactive thyroid that can crop up during menopause, some basic dos and don’ts apply, beginning with a regular eating pattern. ‘Fasting is not great for women approaching menopause. When female sex hormones begin to deplete, the adrenal glands can kick in to compensate, therefore leaving long periods of time in between meals can have an adverse effect and even exacerbate menopausal symptoms,’ says Eve. ‘Sugar, caffeine and alcohol are not your friends when it comes to balancing hormones,’ she stresses. A good rule of thumb, she suggests, is to eat a diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids, with adequate protein and a wide variety of coloured vegetables, which will help to stabilise mood and feed the gut microbiome with dietary fibre, an often-missed but necessary nutrient that studies now show helps to populate gut microbes. When in doubt, cook from scratch and follow the Mediterranean diet, says Eve.
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
‘FASTING is not great for women approaching MENOPAUSE. And SUGAR, CAFFEINE and ALCOHOL are not your friends when it comes to balancing HORMONES’
SUPPLEMENTS: HELP OR HINDRANCE?
Supplements can play their part in hormonal health but are often oversold. Dr Federica Amati is a medical scientist and accredited nutritionist specialising in women’s health. Dr Amati says she is sceptical of multivitamins, and prefers instead to focus on a whole foods approach high in plants and polyphenols found in extra virgin olive oil. She does, however, stand by the Indi Body supplement, a ‘diet enhancer’ of dried and powdered whole plants that contains adaptogens, polyphenols and antioxidants shown to be anti-inflammatory and to improve gut health. Using no bulking agents, artificial additives or chemical preservatives, found in some off-the-shelf vitamins, Indi products are gluten and allergen free. Gynaecologist Tania Adib suggests her patients take an omega-3 supplement to help lubricate joints, a probiotic for gut health and vitamin D to manage mood and protect against heart and bone health. Dr Shotter finds supplementing with NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) to be effective. NAD occurs naturally in the body and plays a role in generating energy and improving cellular health. Nuchido Time+ is a patented formulation that has been clinically proven in a blind placebo-controlled study to increase NAD+ levels (from £65 for 30 day supply, nuchido.co.uk). May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 131
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If you want to dial things in further, Bioniq (bioniq.com) bespoke supplements are based on a blood panel of over 50 markers, including CRP (C-reactive protein) that measures inflammation. Following an initial blood test costing £149, a bespoke multivitamin supplement is prescribed on subscription for £99 per month, which you take for three months, at which point you are tested again to compare results. Herbal tinctures, says Dr Henderson, can also help to alleviate specific symptoms. ‘Sage, for example, can treat palpitations and hot sweats, while magnesium aids sleep, and red clover and black cohosh have phytoestrogens.’ Try Neal’s Yard Sage Single Herbal Tincture, £11 (nealsyardremedies.com), Terranova Magnesium Complex, £30 and Solgar Red Clover Flower and Leaf Extract, £27.50 (both at johnbellcroyden.co.uk).
AESTHETIC TREATMENTS AND SKINCARE
Choose your skincare wisely: Empelle is specifically for menopausal skin; vitamin C is a must, as is SPF
Changes to a woman’s facial appearance can often cruelly coincide with a sudden drop in hormones. This is not the time to be drastic, but to utilise technologies that improve skin quality and hydration. Dr Sebagh’s PRF (platelet rich fibrin) from £700 (drsebagh.com) is a concentration
For dry skin, look for lipid-rich creams like those from SkinCeuticals, Cellcosmet and Dr Sebagh
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of growth factors collected from your own blood which is spun in an advanced centrifugation system, purified, then injected back into your skin to promote healing and, crucially, collagen synthesis – a process that drastically slows down in accordance with the natural decline of oestrogen. With skin continuing to improve for months post procedure, PRF can also be performed on the scalp to naturally stimulate hair growth, ideal for women with thinning hair post menopause, and can be combined with microneedling and radiofrequency. For eyes, Medical Director at Ouronyx Dr Marco Nicoloso recommends the new NeoGen Plasma treatment (medical-grade nitrogen plasma technology), a clever, clinically proven way to treat the whole skin architecture with less downtime than its ablative predecessors, giving taught facial contours and bright, even skin with little downtime (from £800, ouronyx.com). NeoGen is also safe for use around eyes, however Dr Nicoloso has seen subtle improvements with Nucleofill (£950 for two treatments, ouronyx.com), a new bio-stimulating injectable that harnesses natural polynucleotides to diminish crepiness and dark circles without the water retention that can occur with traditional fillers. Tweakments, when chosen wisely, bolster confidence, but they shouldn’t be used in isolation, says Dr Nicoloso who prescribes personalised medical-grade skincare through GetHarley. ‘Injectables like dermal fillers and neurotoxins work to improve the appearance of your face, but you must also address the health of your skin with a good skincare routine,’ he reminds us. Dr Shotter rates Emepelle, a clever menopausal skincare formulation that is structurally similar to oestrogen, thus prompting the skin cells to begin collagen synthesis. In basic terms, ceramides, vitamin C and retinol are the holy trinity of ingredients to seek out during this time. Switch to a ceramiderich cleanser like CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser (£9.99, superdrug.com), follow with a vitamin C serum such as L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Clinical 12% Pure Vitamin C Serum (£14.99, boots.com), which will help to brighten a drab, sleep-deprived complexion while providing antioxidant protection from environmental toxins, followed by SPF – La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400 SPF50 (£19.90, boots.com) is as effective and lightweight as they come. If your skin is suffering from dryness or dehydration, a lipid-rich cream will be your saviour. Dr Shotter recommends SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 (£148, lookfantastic.com). For night, I like Dr Sebagh’s Supreme Night Secret (£195, drsebagh.com), a nourishing elixir for face and neck. Though, for an investment that works hard for the money, Cellcosmet’s Ultra Vital Intensive Revitalising Cellular Cream, (£326, cellcosmet-cellmen. co.uk) is a 24-hour day and night super cream that smooths, firms and protects, preserving the skin’s barrier function, which, after all, is the crux of healthy skin. n
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
Bikini, Dodo Bar Or. Diamond necklace, David Morris
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PR O M OT I O N
LASER FOCUSED A wizard with lasers, Dr Ariel Haus is regarded as one of the world’s leading experts at nonsurgical treatments
T
reating patients with his combined approach of medical aesthetics and clinical dermatology has made Dr Ariel Haus one of the most sought-after skin doctors in his field. Addressing dermatological concerns ranging from confidence crushing acne and psoriasis to life threatening skin cancers, Dr Haus has built a reputation for excellence at his private practice in London’s Harley Street. Supported by a team of fellow dermatologists, nurses and aesthetic practitioners, going by the online reviews the patient experience at Dr Haus Dermatology is regarded as warm and inviting, from the reception to the aftercare service, something Dr Haus considers a valuable part of the experience. It was during his second year of medical school in his home city of Rio de Janeiro Brazil, that Dr Haus pivoted to dermatology after hearing one of the founding fathers of plastic surgery, Professor Ivo Pitanguy, speak about the positive psychological impact surgery had on the burn victims he’d treated. Instantly making the connection between physical appearance and mental wellbeing, Dr Haus developed a passion for dermatology which led him on a distinguished career path, working for the NHS before opening his private practice nearly 15 years ago. Attracting a loyal patient base, mainly from word of mouth, Dr Haus’ expanding clientele culminated in the move to luxurious new Grade II listed premises, spread across the entire first floor of the beautifully restored 18th-century building where he offers his renowned non-surgical face and body treatments. An early adopter of energy devices, Dr Haus has been named an expert at the face-lifting technology Ultherapy by The Daily Mail, and is currently excited by the latest resurfacing lasers, such as CoolPeel. ‘I still have the first CO2 laser platform
Dr Ariel Haus
that I purchased almost 15 years ago, but the new CoolPeel is light years ahead in terms of the results that it delivers, and without the downtime of the previous technologies. I have had the treatment myself to smooth my complexion,’ says Haus. And with summer nearly upon us, body concerns like cellulite are also a key focus which can be treated with ONDA, a device that uses Coolwaves technology to eliminate fat cells and stimulate the production of new collagen. It is his expertise in dermatology with the foresight to harness the advancements of such technologies that gives Dr Haus’ patients the excellence they expect – optimum skin quality with transformative aesthetic improvements. Dr Haus Dermatology, 75 Harley Street, London W1 020 7935 6358; drhausdermatology.com; reception@drhausdermatology.com; @drarielhaus
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PR O M OT I O N
A BETTER WAY TO RETINOL Hydropeptide Universal Tri-Retinol is the retinol we’ve all been waiting for – it’s even suitable for those with sensitive skin
HydroPeptide has spent 15 years developing a retinol range that really delivers
associated irritation. With over 15 years research and development, Hydropeptide is an ageing-well authority when it comes to clinically-backed, peer-reviewed high-performance skincare. Extensive testing among 35-69 year olds has ensured Universal Tri-Retinol is suitable for even the most sensitive of skins while still delivering maximum efficacy. Tri-Retinol Complex powers the new Hydropeptide Retinol Routine Booster, a powerful anti-ageing treatment. Combined with patented peptide CellRenew-16, 1% Universal Tri-Retinol Complex and Niacinamide, to allow for a higher retinol percentage, improved benefits, and better absorption. The paraben and phthalates-free Booster diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, refines the look of enlarged pores, and improves visibly uneven skin tone and texture. Results are seen within four weeks of use. To target the delicate orbital area, Hydropeptide has created the new Retinol Eye Renewal, a balm designed to lift, firm and nourish delicate under eye skin. This treatment containing the same powerful patented technology as the Retinol Routine Booster to target lines, crow’s feet, wrinkles while also reducing bags, puffiness and sagging skin. hydropeptide.co.uk; @hydropeptideuk
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
A
chieving healthy, glowing skin are the goals that we all aspire to, but as we age, cellular renewal naturally slows down leaving skin looking noticeably duller, less even and less radiant. One of the most powerful professional ingredients that has long been employed by dermatologists as a non-invasive treatment is retinol, a vitamin A compound, known for its phenomenal ability to smooth skin, increase luminosity and decrease the signs of fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage by shedding old cells and revealing new ones on the skin’s surface. Retinols often cause reactions even in those not prone to sensitivity, making it unsuitable for sensitive skin types – until now. HydroPeptide has developed Universal Tri-Retinol, containing their exclusive Tri-Retinol Complex – an intelligent, high-performance retinol designed for every skin type with a significantly reduced risk of inflammation. Combining three different forms of retinol, the Tri-Retinol complex harnesses the most efficacious retinoid derivatives to create a unique tribrid product for maximum skincare results. Encapsulated retinol penetrates deeply into the skin and helps to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, while glyceryl diretinoate and retinol linoleate amplify the retinol response with a sustained-release technology that continually releases vitamin A into the skin over a longer, staggered period to deliver a more effective and less irritating conversion to the active form of vitamin A (a.k.a., retinoic acid) into the skin. The combination of all three makes the Tri Retinol complex a game changer in the retinoid landscape, providing all the benefits of traditional retinoid treatments but without the
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
The
POWER of ONE
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
As dermatologists report a rise in damaged, sensitised skin, single ingredient layering is being replaced with a new and improved raft of ‘super creams’. But can one product do it all? CLAIRE COLEMAN finds out
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Is it time to strip back our skincare routines?
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
I
n recent years, we’ve become our own dermatologists. A combination of the pandemic, the rise of single-ingredient skincare and TikTok led to many of us creating our own multistep regimes based on a cocktail of highly active ingredients. The only problem was that we didn’t really know what we were doing. ‘People are very influenced by marketing and what they see on social media,’ says Dr Fiona McCarthy, a clinician with skincare concierge service GetHarley. ‘If an ingredient is hailed as the new thing, people want to try it, regardless of whether it’s right for their skin.’ And generally it’s not, resulting in irritation, sensitivity and soreness – it’s no coincidence that trend reports, whether from high street retailers like Boots or market analysts Mintel, are flagging ‘barrier repair’ as a key consumer concern for this year. Then there’s the fact that a carefully formulated cream combines ingredients that work synergistically. ‘So many active ingredients can’t be used together, and you simply don’t get the absorption that you should if you’re layering them,’ says Dr McCarthy. At best we are wasting money and at worst actually damaging our skin. So it’s little wonder that we’re starting to see a backlash in multilayering regimes and a welcome return to super creams - multi-functional moisturisers and serums packed with complementary, bio-available actives that work synergistically to gently, but effectively, improve the complexion, saving time, money and unnecessary damage. Skin quality is paramount. And it’s bright, even, healthy skin that’s key. ‘I’m seeing a lot of people with compromised skin barriers and sensitivity,’ says Dr Sonia Khorana, an NHS GP and community dermatology doctor. ‘Often because they’ve been overusing single ingredient exfoliants or actives which can be very damaging, resulting in dryness and irritation.’ And, as Dr McCarthy points out, ‘Once you get irritation and an impaired skin barrier, you need to add more products to try to soothe that.’ Crucially we need to get away from the idea that a higher percentage of an ‘active’ means it’s more effective. These days, it’s all about microdosing – using less of an ingredient for incremental improvements rather than instantaneous results. ‘A lower Dr Sonia Khorana percentage doesn’t mean the product won’t work,’ says Dr Khorana. ‘As long as there’s a good formulation and a good delivery system, you’ll see benefits, and probably less irritation.’ If you’re looking for a product to replace an old line up of incompatible serums and lotions, Dr McCarthy says that pretty much everyone will benefit from vitamin C. ‘It’s effective on
pigmentation, stimulates collagen, and the antioxidant action can help repair UV damage.’ Dr Khorana agrees and would also add in ingredients that help to repair and protect the skin barrier. ‘I often recommend niacinamide, panthenol, squalene, glycerin and ceramides as these are unlikely to cause irritation and will benefit most people.’ Other ingredients to consider include hyaluronic acid to boost hydration. ‘Either layered under a moisturiser or within it,’ says Dr McCarthy. And possibly peptides – proteins that can prompt the skin to go into repair mode – producing more collagen and elastin for extra bounce. When it comes to your day and night routine, dermatologists recommend keeping it simple. For those who are used to a comprehensive routine, that might mean stripping your regime down to a basic trilogy of cleanse, treat, protect. ‘I like to start with the absolute basics, and when you’ve got that down, then you can add in additional steps if necessary,’ says Dr Fiona McCarthy Dr Khorana. ‘So in the morning, cleanse with a cleanser of your choice, treat with an antioxidant serum, use a moisturiser if necessary, and then protect with a broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen. In the evening, cleanse to remove makeup and SPF, then treat depending on your skincare concern – a retinoid will address fine lines and texture as well as help with rebuilding collagen, fading pigmentation and oil control. But if you’re acne prone you might be looking at salicylic acid, and if you have rosacea, you might need azelaic acid.’ Can one cream really do it all? If you’re already using gold-standard vitamin C in the morning and vitamin A in the evening then what you want from a supercream – or superserum – is a carefully blended combination of ingredients that’s going to boost moisture, bolster your skin barrier, and, if you’re lucky, help blitz pigmentation and improve texture, all without irritation. As far as professional ranges go, dermatologist Dr Amiee Vyas recommends a broad spectrum antioxidant serum such as Skinbetter Science Alto Defense Serum, £146 (skinpharmacy. co.uk) that’s expertly formulated to nourish brighten and protect from oxidative stress. But there are plenty to choose from on the high street too. Turn the page to find out our recommendations...
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE: STYLING: URSULA LAKE
If you’re looking for a PRODUCT to replace an old line-up of INCOMPATIBLE serums and lotions, everyone will benefit from VITAMIN C
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
1
DIOR CAPTURE TOTALE LE SERUM A reformulation of the original, this new version claims to be Dior’s first serum to visibly improve skin firmness, as well as working on lines, pores, unevenness and radiance, thanks to a hyaluronic acid complex and a fermented extract that rejuvenates older skin cells. £72, dior.com
2
EIGHTH DAY REPARATIVE MOISTURISER Formulated by dermatologist and surgeon Dr Antony Nakhla, this blend of peptides, ceramides, omega oils, antioxidants and growth factors has been designed to both hydrate and repair damaged skin. £150, harrods.com
HARD WORK The Six Best Super Creams to Buy Now
3
NO7 RESTORE & RENEW MULTI ACTION SERUM Developed following 15 years of research, it contains completely new peptides, identified through medical-grade research, that don’t exist in any other range, alongside niacinamide, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid for all round skin rejuvenation. £44.95 for 75ml, boots.com
4
VENN VITAMIN B ACTIVATED ALL-IN-ONE CONCENTRATE Combining mastic gum, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, with multiple B vitamins including barrier-repairing panthenol (B5) and niacinamide (B3), and amino acids, makes for a multicorrectional cream that works on all aspects of ageing skin. £180, spacenk.com
5
TATCHA THE SILK SERUM A super lightweight serum that includes a cranberry extract, packed with peptides and amino acids, sea fennel, which reduces roughness and soothes irritated skin, as well as moisture-binding silk protein which helps smooth and plump fine lines. £98, tatcha.co.uk
6
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PHOTOS: PEXELS
MYBLEND REVITALIZING CREAM This new brand, from the Clarins stable, combines tech with supplements and skincare and this, their hero cream, combines peptides, hyaluronic acid, squalene, shea butter and vitamin E to help skin become smoother, plumper and firmer, with enhanced radiance. £210, harrods.com n
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PR O M OT I O N
A FRESH APPROACH
In the age of natural-looking aesthetics, Ouronyx is leading the way
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
‘O
ur aim is to age well rather than reverse time,’ says Clinical Director, Dr Marco Nicoloso. Ageing, he believes, is not something to be feared but rather revered and cherished, an ethos that is upheld from the consultation to the bespoke treatments and diligent aftercare. Like a piece of fine art, for Nicoloso, your face deserves the same care and attention throughout life. A unique and discerning method of aesthetic medicine, at Ouronyx the goal is not to transform your features or diminish all signs of ageing, but to restore and maintain each individual’s unique beauty by revitalising the skin, restoring resilience and replacing lost volume with a carefully curated combination of aesthetic treatments and personalised skincare that’s continually adapted to the changes in lifestyle and the passing of time, in a slow and incremental way. A highly skilled injector, Nicoloso’s soughtafter technique centres around restoring volume and structure where bone and fat has naturally reasorbed, thus reinstating the underlying scaffolding that helps to lift and support not only the skin, but the muscle and cushioning beneath. Understanding the complexity of facial anatomy is key to Ouronyx’s approach, which is about looking rested and rejuvenated and never overdone. Advocating for micro treatments carried out over time, injectables from filler to neurotoxins and bio-stimulators such as Profhilo, and dark circle corrector Nucleofill, form the foundation of Ouronyx’s aesthetic procedures, bolstered by complementary treatments that focus on skin health. This holistic approach has led to a new partnership with Cellcosmet, a results-driven skincare brand that blends proven natural ingredients with leading microbiome science and cellular technology. ‘Injectables work to improve the appearance of your face, but you must also address the health of your skin with a good skincare routine – the foundation for healthy skin,’ says Dr Nicoloso. Appreciating that regular skin treatments are a key component to optimising results, Ouronyx has created an exclusive professional facial harnessing Cellcosmet’s products and expertise. Vital to keeping skin looking at its best, a well
The beautiful aesthetics promised by Ouronyx starts as soon as you enter the stunning clinic, which has just teamed up with results-driven brand Cellcosmet
moisturised and enhanced skin barrier will help to extend the life of injectable treatments, which thrive on moisture to absorb hydration within the skin for a dewy, plump complexion. The ingredients within the serums will then help maintain the skin barrier function while boosting skin with proteins and peptides, along with hyaluronic acid, improving its elasticity, firmness and glow. Book your complimentary consultation at Ouronyx and a Cellcosmet facial every four weeks at the beginning of every new skin cycle for optimal results. Ouronyx, 20 St James’s Street, London SW1, 020 4542 1697, ouronyx.com; @ouronyx; @cellcosmet_official; YouTube @CellapLaboratoire
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PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
Is tight, bright skin the ultimate status symbol?
AESTHETIC GUIDE
AND JUST LIKE THAT...
Tight, glass-like skin is the ultimate measure of class. ROSIE GREEN lifts the lid on the stealth protocols behind maintaining a flawless complexion as we age
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
W
e can all think of famous faces who, in the pursuit of beauty, are beginning to look a little, well, weird. Think ironed foreheads, waxy ‘embalmed’ skin, blowfish lips and alien cheeks. The result of their costly tweakments? Not fresher or younger, just stranger. No surprise then that among the style cognoscenti there’s a rejection of this overdone look and instead a craving for a more subtle, stealthy approach to rejuvenation and enhancement. Not for the chic set are conspicuous procedures that are bandied about on social media – like buccal fat removal (a permanent surgical procedure that involves creating killer cheekbones by removing the fat from under them. Its long-term effects are unknown and it is only suitable for specific facial shapes). The use of syringe after syringe of fillers to inflate lips or plump up cheeks to chipmunk level feels outdated. Ditto heavy-handed Botox that eradicates every line, but simultaneously any expression. ‘It would be fair to say that injectables are being challenged as the status quo,’ says Dr Judy Todd (left) was the lauded cosmetic doctor, Uliana Gout. the woman behind Shirley ‘No longer is our patient demographic Ballas’ recent refresh just looking for that “plumper lip” or “more contoured cheeks”, but rather asking for a more holistic approach to looking healthy, fresh and energised. Think clear, smooth, radiant and blemish/pigment-free skin.’ ‘Skin quality has become the new obsession among my patients,’ agrees A-list aesthetic physician Dr Wassim Taktouk. All the experts interviewed here agreed that by improving skin health, Dr Uliana Gout injectables can be used more sparingly
and the client can thus achieve a more natural refresh. But how do you achieve such sought-after skin? According to the best in business, it’s about taking advantage of new advances in aesthetic technology and deploying a multi-pronged approach with energy devices, muscle stimulators, lasers and massage. Without further ado, here’s the inside track on the non-surgical facelifts, complexion rejuvenating injectables and supercharged facials that will slow and even reverse your skin’s ageing process. ‘Most women do not want to go under the knife,’ says Dr Judy Todd. And Dr Todd, the woman behind Shirley Ballas’ recent refresh, is a firm believer they don’t have to. Why? She believes that new energy treatments like NeoGen Plasma (Shirley’s choice) can deliver surgery-rivalling results. ‘They have significantly improved outcomes and we are getting incredible and natural looking transformations with just a few treatments.’ So how does NeoGen Plasma work? It uses nitrogen plasma pulses to deliver controlled high temperatures deep inside the skin tissues to massively boost collagen and elastin production and thus plump and lift the skin. For Shirley’s treatment, Dr Todd combined five NeoGen treatments with two sessions of Morpheus8 (famed for Judy Murray’s transformation – another Dr Todd triumph) and Obagi Nu-Derm skincare over ten months. We did say stealth... Dr Wassim Taktouk And wealth. The total cost for Shirley’s treatment with Dr Todd is around £5,500 at Cadogan Clinic (cadoganclinic.com). Ouronyx, a high-end, non-invasive clinic specialising in skin refinement, has also recently added NeoGen Plasma to its menu (ouronyx.com). May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 141
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
FACE FORWARD
How to get the skin you want – with a little help THE RISE OF THE MICRODOSE
Unlike diamonds and plane seats, injectables are not an area where more is always more. For a decade at least, little and often has been the mantra of the best aesthetic doctors. Now, they are practising ‘microdosing’. ‘It can be called Skin Botox, Micro Botox or Microtox,’ says Dr Christine Hall (left), who is the go-to practitioner for it. In the Taktouk Clinic, where she practises, it’s called ‘the glass skin treatment as that’s the final look the treatment aims to achieve.’ How does it work? ‘Instead of the toxin going in the body of the muscle, the injections inhibit the most superficial fibres of the muscle which attach to the dermis. This means the pulling and tethering effects on the skin are reduced while the movements in the main body of the muscle are maintained. People get an airbrushed look and lustre that you do not get with standard Botox injections.’ Be warned though, higher numbers of injections are required for Microtox treatments than with typical Botox. ‘For the forehead or midface approximately 20 injections are needed to complete both sides and it needs to be done every three to four months.’ Micro Botox with Dr Hall starts from £695, drwassimtaktouk.com
A BIT OF MUSCLE
Muscle-stimulating treatments are a new and stealthy way to lift and sculpt the face without needles or knives. Emface, dubbed the new non-invasive, needleless facelift, follows on from the hugely successful body contouring treatment Emsculpt, and works by encouraging the muscles to rapidly and repeatedly contract and thus improve strength and tone. It also uses heat energy to create new collagen within the skin, so it’s a doubleaction tweakment. For best results you need to commit to four sessions. Emface starts from £3,000 for a course of four treatments at Dr Rita Rakus, drritarakus. co.uk
BARE BONES
IT TAKES TWO
Another game changer is the new ‘hybrid’ injectable HArmonyCa. Industry leader Dr Sophie Shotter (above) says: ‘It’s the first product available which brings together two clinically proven ingredients in a single syringe. The hyaluronic acid component gives immediate lift and volume, like filler does. The calcium hydroxyapatite then continues to stimulate collagen and elastin production naturally which will give skin back its firmness and bounce. Results last up to three years.’ HArmonyCA from £850 with Dr Sophie Shotter, drsophieshotter.com
Less of a commitment is the ‘bone resetting’ facial with aesthetic therapist Izabela Pawlitka (below) at Dr David Jack’s new London clinic. Otherwise known as the Golki facial, it involves manually stimulating the bones in your face to lift and contouring to restore a more youthful v-shape through deep tissue massage. The technique increases blood circulation around the bone, increasing calcium absorption. To achieve facelift results you need a rather hefty 30 weekly sessions, but after a single session clients report looking visibly fresher with rejuvenated eyes. To achieve the flawless, poreless Korean complexion Izabela combines the Golki facial with Lumecca IPL therapy to tackle redness or pigmentation. Golki facial £170, Lumecca treatment from £450, drdavidjack.com
X MARKS THE SPOT
Perhaps the biggest news in the anti-aging arena is the arrival of Exosome treatments, the best of which originate from South Korea. ‘Exosomes are tiny, ultra-efficient messengers that give your dormant skin cells that wake-up call they need to rejuvenate, regenerate, brighten, and turn back your skin’s biological clock,’ says Dr Shameema Damree, who has pioneered their use at Urban Retreat in London’s Knightsbridge. ‘They increase the production of collagen by 600 per cent and elastin by 300 per cent – a degree of regeneration never seen before.’ Dr Damree combines this with radio frequency to further tighten and lift. 5 Billion EXO-RF FACE from £2,625 per session (a course of three sessions is recommended), urbanretreat.co.uk n 142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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PR O M OT I O N
CRAFTING CONFIDENCE Feeling good as well as looking good is the mantra of plastic surgeon Mr Hagen Schumacher
M
PHOTOS: PEXELS
any plastic surgeons create work designed to meet standards of beauty imposed by society. But Mr Hagen Schumacher, director at Adore.Life Limited, has a guiding philosophy that is subtly different. ‘I feel that what you look like to others is of secondary importance. The thing that matters is how you feel about your appearance. A marked increase in my patients’ confidence and selfesteem, which is bound to lead to a happier, more fulfilled life, is what I aim for with my surgical work,’ he says. A highly qualified consultant plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Mr Schumacher started his medical education in Hamburg before becoming fully UK-trained in plastic surgery at Cambridge University Hospital and associated units. He sub-specialised in surgery of the head and neck as well as the breast region, but is certified for all areas of surgical and non-surgical procedures. He is still an NHS consultant surgeon with over 10,000 procedures in his logbook. But today, he concentrates mainly on his private practices In London and Cambridge, where his main interest is in aesthetic surgery of the face (including rhinoplasty, eyelid surgery, chin alterations and facelifts), breast surgery and labiaplasty operations. More niche procedures such as buccal fat removal, full-armpit reduction, dimpleplasty surgery and facial implants are also part of his portfolio.
honestly what can and cannot be achieved. In my clinics, we pride ourselves on our transparency, understanding and on being entirely free of judgement.’ Mr Hagen Schumacher’s SURGICAL Mr Schumacher prefers to perform his ethos is not just about how PARTNERSHIP procedures as a day case and under local you look but how you feel Honesty, respect and a collaborative anaesthetic wherever possible to further approach to getting the best enhance healing and recovery. With over possible result from any operation or procedure are front and 20 years in the industry, he is registered, certified and highly centre when it comes to Mr Schumacher’s relationships with respected not only in the UK but in Europe and the United his patients. ‘Many patients ask me if I can guarantee a specific States as well. Here is one plastic surgeon whose ability to outcome of their surgery,’ he says. ‘My answer is: “I don’t know.” craft beauty as much as confidence should put him at the That’s because a fantastic result depends not only on surgical top of your wish-list for cosmetic procedures. technique, but also on healing and expectations. So I select patients carefully and involve them as equal partners in the Mr Hagen Schumacher, Adore Life, Harley Street Clinic, surgical process. I encourage them to take the right steps 152 Harley Street, London W1. @hagenschumacher, to speed up the recovery process and discuss openly and 0203 086 7371; www.adore.life
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AESTHETIC GUIDE
Here comes the
GROOM
I
’m a man and I’ve had tweakments. I’ve had Botox, I’ve tried fillers, I recently had a whole load of age-related - and age-revealing cherry angiomas removed from my trunk. As confessions go, it’s not exactly up there with ‘I never wear underwear’ or ‘I only brush my teeth once a week’, but it’s probably one that I, like most men, wouldn’t have been all that comfortable making ten or 15 years ago. But times have changed. Men have changed. In an attempt to improve their appearance, boost their confidence and give Old Father Time a run for his money, an increasing number of men are turning to tweakments – non-surgical cosmetic procedures like ‘Brotox’, fillers and microneedling – to fine tune their features, increase their competitiveness in the workplace and boost their self-confidence. And, like me, they’re no longer quite so reticent about admitting it. It’s a phenomenon seen in aestheticians’ offices the length and breadth of the country. ‘Over the last few years, the number of men coming for treatments in my clinic has increased significantly,’ says Dr David Jack, a leading aesthetic doctor based in London’s Harley Street. ‘When I first started doing injectables about 13 years ago, only a few patients were men – now about 30 percent are men and they’re from varying backgrounds, too.’ One of the reasons for men’s growing interest in tweakments is their overall – and increasingly unashamed – interest in self-care. The boom in male grooming as a whole (the market is now worth a whopping £500 million in the UK), the normalcy of previously taboo procedures like hair transplants, and men’s more relaxed
attitude to gender norms (according to a YouGov survey one in 20 men now wear makeup on a regular basis), means tweakments are increasingly seen as just another weapon in their expanding grooming armoury. ‘Younger men, especially, are increasingly open about having tweakments because they view them as a logical extension of their existing personal care regimes,’ says award-winning aesthetics doctor Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, who has clinics in London, Leeds and Manchester, and whose clientele was once almost exclusively female but is now 30 percent men. ‘The whole stigma surrounding treatments has gone,’ he says, pointing out that couples often come into his clinic together for his-and-hers tweaks. Interestingly, it was the pandemic that really lit a fire under the trend, with aestheticians like Dr El Muntasar benefitting from what’s been dubbed the tweakment ‘Zoom Boom’ that came after lockdown. Forced to communicate remotely via video conferencing services, men were suddenly up close and personal with their own face like never before. The camera, after all, never lies. ‘The major appeal of tweakments is that they provide a subtle way of improving on what nature gave you, and also of managing how you look as you age,’ says Alice Hart-Davis, founder of The Tweakments Guide (thetweakmentsguide. com) – an indispensable resource for anyone interested in minimally invasive procedures. ‘Now they know that these procedures are available, and that if the treatments are done well they look terrific, why wouldn’t men want that for themselves?’ she says.
An increasing number of MEN are turning to TWEAKMENTS to fine tune their FEATURES, increase their COMPETITIVENESS in the workplace and boost their SELFCONFIDENCE
PHOTOS: PEXELS; MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
From soap and water to retinol, now tweakments have become just another weapon in a man’s expanding grooming armoury, says LEE KYNASTON
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Aesthetic medicine is no longer just a woman’s domain
PHOTOS: PEXELS; MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
Ring David Morris
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The great thing about tweakments is where they sit on the spectrum of selfimprovement options: superior to skincare in terms of results, they’re also nowhere near as scary as knock-you-out-andrearrange-your-features surgery. What’s more, they’re quick (many can be carried out in a lunch hour) and there’s practically no downtime. They’re certainly no scarier than a barbershop shave and nowhere near as eye-watering as a back, sack and crack wax. The other big draw for men is their relative subtlety. If done subtly, it’s unlikely anybody’s going to ask who the new boy is when you pop back to the office after ‘a little work’. What’s interesting to me, as someone who’s written about male grooming for over 20 years, though, is why men are clamouring for these treatments. Not long ago, I’d have said they want to look as attractive as possible in order to attract a partner or look their best to remain competitive in a precarious job market, and though these remain factors (a chunk of Dr El Muntasar’s are indeed ‘city boys’), the practitioners I spoke to revealed that these days men are investing in selfcare for themselves – because it makes them feel good and boosts their self-confidence. To paraphrase a legendary beauty brand, they’re doing it because they’re ‘worth it’. This has indeed been my personal experience. I’d been massively conscious of my age-defining cherry angiomas (harmless bright red moles that appear on the trunk and arms as we get older) every time I removed my shirt. Once they were removed that self-consciousness evaporated. Although not a tweakment in the Botox or filler sense, the removal of these annoying little imperfections – using advanced electrolysis – took just 15 minutes and cost the same as a fancy dinner out with friends. That’s the beauty of tweakments: the results are often disproportionate to the small amount of time required and the financial investment made. So what conf idence-boosting tweakments are men having then? According to Dr Jack, injectables are still (and will continue to be) the most
popular treatments with men, in particular subtle Botox treatments to lift eyelids and reduce frown lines, though it’s no longer the blunt instrument it was when I first tried it back in 2009 and ended up looking like an egg with hair. ‘Nowadays, most sensible practitioners will treat patients in a subtle way, using fairly light doses of Botox to gently treat the face and reverse the age-related changes in the dynamic muscles of the face, rather than heavy doses to paralyse the muscles completely,’ he says reassuringly. ‘When it comes to men, I always like to reassure them that I have an extremely conservative approach - Botox should only ever be done to reverse the change in muscle dynamics that has happened over time, and never used to completely freeze facial movement, and dermal fillers only injected to replace lost volume – otherwise things often begin looking “done”.’ Botox from Dr Jack starts at £350.
Treatments like the Lumecca IPL, a powerful light-based device which helps reduce hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage, is also popular with men (expect to pay around £450 for the face), as is ‘tear trough’ revolumisation with fillers. ‘The tear trough is a massively popular treatment among men, arguably the most popular,’ says Dr El Muntasar. ‘It uses very thin hyaluronic acid dermal fillers to reduce the hollowness in the under eyes and since, anatomically, men generally have deeper tear troughs, it makes them look a little bit more tired so it’s a great antidote to that.’ Prices start from £450 at Dr El Muntasar’s clinics. Skin tightening treatments such as Morpheus8, which despite sounding like a star on the outermost reaches of the galaxy, is actually a procedure using microneedling and radiofrequency technologies to stimulate collagen and elastin, is also on the up, as is Profhilo, an injectable
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Tweakments are no SCARIER than a barbershop shave and nowhere near as EYE-WATERING as a back, sack and crack wax. And there’s practically no DOWNTIME
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‘biostimulator’, which hydrates skin and stimulates collagen and elastin and costs around £450. ‘Men like it as it has no risk of creating an “overdone look”,’ says Dr Jack, who points out that most guys are unwilling to waste time or money on basic, spa-type facials but are more than happy to invest in facials that utilise new technology and offer more comprehensive and visible results. As well as the eye area, the jawline is another prime tweakment spot for men, with Dr El Muntasar citing it as an area ideal for remodelling with the use of fillers (prices start around £350). ‘The treatments that you do for men and women are quite similar – it’s just the way you do them that changes,’ he says. ‘The jawline is popular with men as it makes the face squarer, which is deemed as more masculine looking.’ As Hart-Davis says, though, when it comes to tweakments it’s all possible (these days fillers are even being used to increase penis girth, but that’s another story entirely). Question is, if you’re a guy who’s interested in some subtle work, where do you begin your tweakment journey? ‘The key thing is to research your practitioner,’ says Dr Jack. ‘Each will be
slightly different in their approach, so I’d always go with a personal recommendation first and foremost, from someone you think looks good – after treatments! I think (and I’m sorry to say this) that you should also judge the face of your injector – if they look odd to you, then steer clear. I’d obviously check the credentials of your doctor to make sure they are GMC [General Medical Council]-registered and have plenty of experience in aesthetics too.’ I have to say, looking at my own mush in the mirror just now I’m once again tempted to have a little something done. Like most men, though, if I’m to improve on nature I want subtle – I don’t want to end up looking like Mickey Rourke. With this in mind, I ask Dr El Muntasar what tweakments he thinks might improve my own looks. ‘You’d definitely benefit from tear troughs to reduce the hollowness under your eyes and possibly a little filler to square off the cheekbones,’ he says, matter-of-factly. ‘Since you have a shaved head, defining the chin with a touch of filler would look great too.’ I’m not remotely offended by his brutal assessment – in fact, I’m rather excited. I can already feel my credit card itching to escape my wallet.
FIVE TWEAKMENTS IN A TUBE Upgrade your grooming routine
1 SPOTLIGHT ORAL CARE PROFESSIONAL LED TEETH WHITENING SYSTEM According to a survey by Oral B, a white smile doesn’t just make you look attractive, it can knock almost five years off your age. £119.95, uk.spotlightoralcare.com 2 THE ORDINARY ARGIRELINE SOLUTION 10% This inexpensive wrinkle buster contains Argireline, a peptide with muscle-freezing effects similar to Botox, making it ideal for frown lines. Effects are subtle rather than astounding. £8.40 for 30ml, theordinary.com 3 BENNY HANCOCK CONCEALER CORRECTIVE PEN This clever concealer pen is the perfect way to disguise age spots, undereye dark circles and other little imperfections – in an instant. £18, humanery.com
PHOTOS: PEXELS
4 LAB SERIES INSTANT FIX COLOUR CORRECTING MOISTURISER This clever moisturiser acts like a filter for your face, evening out skin tone and minimising imperfections. £33 for 50ml, labseries.co.uk Dr Jack says that 30 percent of his clientele are now male – with Botox being the most popular treatment
5 MEDIK8 THE CSA KIT RETINOL EDITION FOR MEN Retinol is one of the most powerful anti-ageing ingredients around, and this kit is the perfect place for any man to start his anti-ageing adventure. £119, medik8.com n
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BRUSHING IT UNDER THE CARPET
Female hair loss is the latest taboo to break. But as a multi-billion-pound industry has sprung up around it, how do we know what really works? Brigid Moss has (almost) tried it all
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
N
ow we’re openly talking about the menopause, the next taboo borderline underactive thyroid may lead to hair loss. Clues are feeling to break is female hair loss. It affects 40 percent of women up tired, having cold hands and feet, finding it hard to lose weight and the to the age of 50, and up to 60 percent after that. But despite it outer third of your eyebrows going missing.’ being a common female experience, it’s often tinged with shame Whereas illness and nutritional deficiencies such as those mentioned and dealt with in secret. tend to cause shedding all over the scalp, hormonal or female pattern hair Like a lot of women, I noticed I was losing hair loss (FPHL) tends to be at the temples, hairline, in my mid-40s, an extra bonus to go with the parting and/or crown. The latter is driven by male hormones, specifically DHT, a breakdown hormonal havoc of perimenopause. Functional medicine GP Dr Klaudia Raczko, who specialises product of testosterone. Women in their 20s and FIVE HEALTHY in hormones, explains: ‘In general, your body 30s with polycystic ovaries often lose hair due to HAIR HEROES does not like hormonal fluctuations, and so they high levels of testosterone and DHT. But from can have an impact on the hair follicles.’ Having the perimenopause onwards, hair loss tends to be Give yourself a head start been blessed in my 30s with an abundance of hair, based on genetic factors. ‘It’s not that testosterone by the age of 45 I was like a labrador in spring, is too high,’ says Kingsley, ‘it’s that hair follicles leaving a trail of hair behind: the car seat, my are overly sensitive to DHT.’ There are two other kinds of hair loss that cardigan, the yoga mat. I don’t have. ‘The most common type I see It was miserable and I couldn’t tell anyone. in women is traction alopecia from hair It was only during the pandemic that I realised styling such as a tight ponytail, as well as it wasn’t just me. Due to stress, hair loss went up and people began to discuss it, subsequently chemical straightening,’ says hair transplant leading to a boom in home and salon treatments. surgeon Dr Chris D’Souza. The final Latest figures from 2021 estimate the global kind is alopecia caused by autoimmune market to now be worth several billion dollars. conditions, where the immune system ‘Female hair loss has been such a taboo mistakenly attacks the follicles; this tends topic for so many years, so there is a lot of to be the hardest kind to treat. mystery surrounding it. Women feel they are alone, and that can be really scary,’ says TOPICAL SOLUTIONS Anabel Kingsley, trichologist and brand In the year since I’ve started to investigate president of Philip Kingsley clinics. ‘Now hair loss seriously, all the experts I’ve spoken we are having many more conversations about to describe seeing people in clinic who’ve it. And yet, there’s a flipside; there’s a lot of been misdiagnosed. To eliminate this, I took the Fagron TrichoTest with hair transplant misinformation being spread.’ surgeon and aesthetic doctor Dr Munir Somji. WHY HAIR THINS It identifies hair loss related genes and from Most women will have more than one reason this, can advise which type of treatment you’ll for hair loss. That was the case for me too. As respond to. ‘It can test if you’ll respond to well as menopause, I am sure stress played biotin, the B vitamin which is in most supplements 1 CENTRED SQUISHY SCALP MASSAGER but 50 percent of people don’t have the enzyme (and is playing) a big part; the stress hormone And relax. £14, wearecentred.com cortisol steals the raw materials we need to to make use of it,’ says Dr Munir. ‘It can also tell 2 MONPURE CLARIFYING SCALP SCRUB make hair-friendly oestrogen and progesterone, you if it is worth supplementing with collagen.’ Deep cleanses without stripping oils. according to nutritionist Pippa Campbell, author The most useful thing the Fagron test reveals is £48, monpure.com of Eat Right, Lose Weight. She diagnosed me with whether you’re one of the 70 to 80 percent of people 3 PLANTMADE GROW PRO DERMA ROLLER a borderline underactive thyroid plus anaemia who respond to minoxidil (Regaine), the only UK Boosts blood flow and reactivates dormant and very low ferritin (iron stores), low levels of licensed medication and first line treatment for follicles. £27, weareplantmade.com FPHL at most clinics. Minoxidil increases blood vitamin B12 and vitamin D. ‘These are some of 4 VIVISCAL PROFESSIONAL SUPPLEMENTS flow to the follicles and works against DHT. the most common nutrient shortages that affect Clinical trials back up its effectiveness. Only available via professional practitioners A good tip: if you buy it at a chemist, use the five hair growth,’ she says, ‘and I’d also add zinc and folate. I often check iodine and selenium levels too, percent men’s version once a day, rather than the 5 PHILIP KINGSLEY DENSITY THICKENING PROTEIN SPRAY £38, philipkingsley.co.uk as they are so important for thyroid function. Even two percent version for women twice a day. Some 148 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
You don’t have to brush away your hair loss concerns anymore, there are people and products to help
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NEEDLING, STEM CELLS AND GROWTH FACTORS
Another approach is to create tiny wounds in the skin, provoking a healing response that kick-starts follicles. The easiest way to do this is with a derma roller, once or twice a week. Adding growth factors and follicle-feeding nutrients super-charges the effect. During The Rapunzel Method at EF Future Health (from £1,995 for five sessions, ef-futurehealth.com), your scalp is first derma-rolled, then the therapist applies a solution containing growth factors that feed the follicle’s stem cells. You’re sent home with the Monpure scalp health
Silver dress, Georgia Hardinge
haircare range, including a scalp exfoliator. The original and still-worth-having treatment in this category is platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy, aka the vampire facial. You donate a vial of blood that’s spun in a centrifuge to separate out the plasma, which is then needled back into the scalp. On average, says Dr Wassim Taktouk, three to six months is all it takes, and results will last 18 to 24 months (costs from £650, drwassimtaktouk.com). The most futuristic treatment is with exosomes, healing and signalling molecules that are currently being developed in the medical field as a delivery system for cancer drugs. Dr Shameema Damree first uses radiofrequency microneedling to open channels so the exosomes can reach the follicles then applies a solution filled with these potent molecules. A course of five of Dr Damree’s RF and exosome treatments (£950, evocyte.co.uk) is recommended to reboot the hair’s growth cycles.
TATTOOS AND TRANSPLANTS
A clever way to disguise hair loss that’s emerged out of the brow microblading technique is scalp micropigmentation. It works well on dark hair, giving the illusion of a less visible scalp by camouflaging where hair is sparse (from £2,000,
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thedsouzaclinic.com). Hair transplants are on the rise in women, too. Dr D’Souza says, ‘People are becoming more aware that a transplant is possible, and it’s become more mainstream too.’ At Dr Munir’s clinic, 95 per cent of his transplant clients are women. Transplants became more appealing to women with the advent of the Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) technique, which involves implantation of individual follicles. Unlike the original Strip (Follicular Unit Transplantation or FUT) technique, where the transplant areas have to be shaved, FUE makes it possible for hairs to keep their length. Good candidates for both must have enough hair in the donor site, usually at the back of the head. To be a candidate for a hair transplant you need plenty of possible donor follicles. At an average price of around £7,000, with two weeks of downtime, it’s a big decision. What’s frustrating about treating hair loss is the time it takes to reap the results – up to six months is average – therefore, real change can be imperceptible, especially if you are concurrently making lifestyle changes that could also have a positive impact. I’m not saying never on the hair transplant. It may be a major investment, but not having to worry about thinning hair could well be the best money I’ll spend yet. Time will tell. n
PHOTOS: MATTHEW SHAVE; STYLING: URSULA LAKE
doctors – including Dr Munir – prescribe up to ten percent. At the Philip Kingsley clinic, the main treatment is minoxidil plus a personalised mix of oestrogen and progesterone. ‘It’s like HRT for the scalp,’ says Anabel Kingsley. One downside of minoxidil and, in fact, all treatments for genetic FPHL is that you need to keep using them. Some people find it easier to take a pill; the option here is spironolactone, an anti-androgen. Its NHS use is as a diuretic, but Dr Munir prescribes it off label as it stops follicles being as responsive to DHT. There are also natural ingredients that have been shown to work. A 2015 study showed that rosemary oil was as effective as two per cent minoxidil in women and people rave about it, not least on TikTok. The entrepreneur Ama Amo-Agyei launched Plantmade, a range of hair treatments, to deal with her own hair loss. It’s based on ayurvedic ingredients. She says customers have reported the range working for all kinds of hair thinning, including traction, androgenic and stressrelated hair loss. Another at-home therapy with some evidence behind it is low-level laser therapy (LLLT). Lily Earle, daughter of beauty pioneer Liz Earle, sells the Cellreturn Hair Alpha-Ray helmet (cellreturn.co.uk), a device designed in South Korea. Its infra-red and red lights increase blood flow – and so nutrition – to follicles. One study on men and women with androgenetic alopecia showed that using it for 20 minutes a day led to an increase in hair density of 25 per cent over six months. At just a fraction under £2,000, it’s not for the faint-hearted. Other studies suggest that simply massaging your head can improve circulation and so, over time, hair density too; ‘anything that improves blood flow is a good idea,’ says Dr Munir.
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PR O M OT I O N
IT’S ALL IN THE BALANCE
With a background in dentistry and facial surgery, no one understands the importance of balance in the face more than Dr Yusra
‘R
adiance on the outside and wellness on the inside.’ That is the mission of Dr Yusra Al-Mukhtar’s award-winning clinics in London’s Harley Street and Blundellsands, Liverpool. Utilising the most gentle and effective evidence-based medically proven techniques and devices to create an Empowering Transformation™ that is fresh, but never fake and never done, to give her patients back their confidence and power in their daily life. With a background in dentistry and facial surgery, Dr Yusra developed a keen interest in facial rejuvenation after spending several years training in maxillofacial surgery at various trauma hospitals in London and she has built a reputation over the last decade as a top aesthetic doctor specialising in the very latest non-surgical innovations in cosmetic treatments. She believes that every client is unique and deserves an individualised approach to treatment. Dr Yusra has built the clinic on word of mouth and is a strong believer in normalising rather than overfilling and distorting. Her years working in facial surgery have enhanced her understanding of anatomy and her belief in ensuring ‘all five layers of the face are in the same decade’. By using facial fillers to tweak facial proportions, combined with radiance enhancing prescription skincare and device-led treatments, she creates outstanding transformations and, as such, Dr Yusra offers is well known for her facial harmonisation bespoke treatments and profile balancing treatments. for the most naturalMaster of non-surgical rhinoplasty, Dr looking results Yusra uses the Align Lift Refine technique to straighten noses and lift drooping nose tips, along with non-surgical face lifts and facial contouring treatments using dermal fillers, Endolift, Secret Pro, Morpheus 8 while the latest technology devices contour the face, enhance sunken cheeks, treat sunken eye bags and correct underdeveloped or weak chins. Dr Yusra has trained her talented, hand-picked team
of doctors with this very approach and has mentored each clinician to ensure they provide the highest standard of care and deliver the most gentle, effective treatments using her bespoke techniques for the most beautiful, natural looking results. Rest assured all the doctors at the clinic will treat you with the highest care and support, educating first and putting you in control of your treatments and results. Her globally renowned expertise drives patients in from all over the world, who regularly fly in from the USA, Middle East and Europe. Her motto is treating everyone with a highly personalised approach to support them with their aesthetic goals and is the secret to many celebrities glowing faces. Dr Yusra Clinic, London Aesthetic Health Clinic, 39 Harley Street, London W1. 0333 224 4666; @dryusra.almukhtar @dryusraclinic
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SMOOTH OPERATOR
E
very one of us wants to look and feel amazing, and the cornerstone to this goal is surely amazing skin. A mirror to our wellbeing, beautiful skin is a journey. As time goes on it can become increasingly difficult, as collagen production diminishes as we age, and the skin no longer has the resilience to keep up. Restoring a youthful glow can feel impossible, but one place that has the tools and expertise to help you achieve this is the Cosderm Clinic, in Mayfair’s Dover Street. Founded by cosmetic dermatologist, Dr Surbhi Virmani, Cosderm is based on the ethos that everybody deserves to feel great about the way they look. With over 20 years’ experience in aesthetics, Dr Surbhi’s practice is based on scientific evidence and a belief that maintaining a healthy and youthful-looking appearance is possible with good sleep, healthy nutrition, and UV protection, coupled with advanced non-surgical, minimally invasive techniques to rejuvenate the skin to reflect the best version of you. Adhering to a ‘patient first’ approach, the patient is the centre of everything. Dr Subhi’s facial treatments concentrate on combining natural products that are completely compatible with human tissue, with techniques to rejuvenate the skin giving the most natural results possible. Her method is not to make you look different,
but to look and feel like a more optimal version of yourself, with a fresher, smoother-looking face being the ultimate goal. Her star treatment is the Biorevitalisation Package. Believing that the world is moving towards more natural substances, this comprehensive treatment is the equivalent of feeding your skin constantly, the same way you would make sure that your body gets enough nutrition. It’s a simple process to revive and restore our skin tissue using a combination of nutrition, topical skin boosters – a mix of hyaluronic acid, vitamins, and minerals – along with DNA fragments sourced from natural sources and exosomes. This is followed by Morpheus 8, a radiofrequency energy and microneedling device that safely delivers heat into the deep layers of the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production while creating a lifting and tightening effect. There is no better place to start your journey to amazing skin than Cosderm. Minimally invasive techniques to reflect Dr Surbhi Virmani the best version of you, with a holistic approach to not only helpyou look good from the outside but also to feel good from the inside. Dr Subhi Virmani, Cosderm Clinic, 32 Dover St, London W1. 07841 356906; cosderm.co.uk; @drsvcosderm
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
We all deserve to feel great, believes Dr Surbhi Virmani from the Cosderm clinic
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TRIED TESTED These ten non-surgical treatments – some new, some faithful – have been put to the test by our scrupulous beauty experts May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 153
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1
ACUSKINLIFT WITH DR JOHN TSGARIS
BEST FOR: A step up from traditional
facials and a great treatment to have before a big event
What happens: Tsgaris has converted his expertise in Traditional Chinese Medicine to great dermatological effect. In practice, he locates the areas on your face that need perking up and applies (very thin) acupuncture needles. Your skin’s own collagen fibres wrap around these needles creating natural threads. This in turn increases the firmness of your skin resulting in smooth, rejuvenated skin that’s instantly visible. The session finishes with a hydrating mask that soothes and nourishes the skin while Tsgaris’s gentle bedside manner is destressing in itself. Ouch factor: There are acupuncture needles involved, and some areas are more tender than others, but to call it painful would be an exaggeration. Downtime: None. Results: Immediate. Expect to leave fresh and glowing with a reduction of fine lines. A course of four to six treatments is recommended. Book it: From £550 per session. thewellnessclinic@harrods.com info@johntsagaris.co.uk
2
FULLER HAIR WITH FUE HAIR TRANSPLANT
BEST FOR: Those wanting to fill in sparse, thinning or bald areas on the scalp
What happens: Following a consultation with Dr Manish Mittal to determine whether you are a suitable candidate, the healthiest hair follicles are selected from the sides and back of the scalp, extracted and transplanted into balding areas. A specialised sapphire blade allows for the most precise incisions in which to implant the healthy hair graft. Unlike many other transplantation methods, it is minimally invasive as a strip of skin does not need to be taken from the donor area, leaving no linear scar, however the process is more time consuming as 200 to 3,000 grafts may be required for optimum results, which can be performed in a single session, but may require more. Ouch factor: The most uncomfortable part is the anaesthetic, but once it kicks the procedure is painless, only the sensation of pressure being applied can be felt. Downtime: Patients can typically go back
to work after two weeks to allow scabs on the treated area to fully heal. Results: The initial transplanted hair will shed a few weeks after treatment, then grows back permanently strong and healthy over 12-18 months. Book it: The number of treatments is dependent on how extensive the hair loss is. In most cases, the cost ranges between £5,000 and £9,000. mittalhairclinic.com
3
THE LIQUID FACE LIFT
BEST FOR: Lifting and revolumising falling faces, this treatment is adjusted to the individual and aims to contour cheekbones, tighten the jawline
and lift the bulldog folds of the lower face that makes one look sad and tired
What happens: Dr Nyla personally assesses the quality of the skin and decides if there is a need for collagenboosting skin prep which is delivered via ultrasound stimulation and the latest HIFES EMface technology. Next, tiny
drops of precisely placed hyaluronic acid filler is delivered through a cannula (hollow needles) which are gently inserted under the skin, close to the bone, to provide scaffolding and support to strategic points such as temples, tear troughs, cheekbones and marionette folds to instantly lift sagging skin. Ouch factor: The filler solution is laced with lidocaine, a local anaesthetic, which reduces pain. However, the preceding ultrasound treatment can be nippy on the bony areas of the face. Downtime: As with all injectable treatments bruising is possible but unlikely due to the blunt cannula that is used. There is minimal swelling but the treated areas can feel tender. Dr Nyla advises avoiding vigorous exercise for a couple of days. Results: The wow factor is immediate and due to the underlying collagen boost, this only improves with time. Best results are seen at three months and last around two years. Book it: From £1,000 with Dr Nyla Raja. doctornyla.com
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PR O M OT I O N Hyaluronic acid delivers brilliantly smooth skin
RESTYLANE ASSURED
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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Galderma is behind Restylane, the original range of hyaluronic acid fillers, formulated with added flexibility for the most natural-looking results
yaluronic acid is one of the most pivotal and critical beauty ingredients available. With its molecular ability to hold over a thousand times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid (HA) is a powerful hydrator that is naturally produced throughout the body, but where its most visible benefits appear is within our skin where its benefits give a natural bounce, resilience and fullness. As we age, the body’s production of HA reduces dramatically leaving skin with less volume and less elasticity, which increases the formation of fine lines and wrinkles across the face and makes lips look thinner and less defined. Traditional injectable fillers can help tackle these issues by restoring lost volume, but they do not necessarily have the flexibility to give the natural results patients often desire. However, aesthetic dermatology company, Galderma has engineered this into their range of HA fillers, Restylane, offering the most diverse range in the world to treat patients’ concerns, each filler in the Restylane range is uniquely formulated to address concerns in different areas of the face while ensuring results look natural Before and are long lasting.
Though lips are one of the first areas of the face to lose volume and are prone to deep lines, many patients are reticent to use fillers that might make them look over-filled, ‘solid’ and unnatural. Restylane Kysse is designed with OBT Technology™ (Optimal Balance Technology), which allows for flexible movement in this dynamic area of the face, leading to natural-looking volume proven to last for up to one year, not only improving the lips’ look but also feeling. Restylane Volyme is a perfect option for those looking for natural-looking volume to correct signs of ageing caused by facial fat pad depletion. Designed to be used to replace lost volume and address sagging in cheeks, it also addresses deep wrinkles with results lasting up to 18 months. Unlike other formulations, Restylane fillers are gel textured, and much softer and flexible than other HA fillers, allowing them to give enough firmness to create volume and plump skin, yet soft enough to give flexibility once injected. Patients look refreshed and plumped, but natural movement is maintained rather than being over-filled and frozen. After
galdermaaesthetics.com; @restylane
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NOT ALL DOCTORS ARE CREATING EQUAL The Prager Clinic, where wellness and longevity walk hand-in-hand
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he Prager Clinic has an enviable reputation for excellence built on aesthetics, ethics and world-class medical expertise. Its protocol has always centered on preserving and enhancing natural beauty, which is why it prides itself on being able to say ‘no’. It is not in the business of creating caricatures. It is a wellbeing clinic, not an alteration clinic, and its USP is quality. As professionals, it takes the ‘best’ of its clients and subtly raises it to ‘better’. Whether it’s injectables, facials, body contouring or skincare, your face, body and mind are in safe hands at the Prager Clinic.
‘Don’t gamble with your face or your health. Enhance them’ DR MICHAEL PRAGER
Dr Michael Prager is one of the world’s leading Botox and Dermal Filler practitioners whose signature procedure, the Non-Surgical Facelift, brought him international recognition and the opportunity to take his incredible knowledge and unmistakeable skill to a wider audience. Considered to be one of the best, if not the best cosmedical practitioner of his generation, Dr Michael Prager believes in offering treatments that are both good for the patient and good for the doctor – because that’s the key to doing Botox and fillers well.
measure her clients’ wellbeing before providing anti-ageing procedures that turn heads for all the right reasons. From lip enhancements to baby Botox and non-injectables, Dr Lizzie’s skin rejuvenation programmes have taken her to the pages of all the top beauty and cosmetic guides, and into the hearts of her loyal clientele. Dr Michael Prager
THE PRAGER CLINIC
The reputation of the Prager Clinic is built on repeated results: providing great service and great outcomes that ultimately lead to success. Whether it’s injectables, facials or body contouring programmes, the Prager protocol remains constant; turning back the clock with care for you and your skin. At the Prager Clinic, cosmetic procedures sit hand-in-hand with client wellbeing because Prager clients are never sacrificed at the altar of aesthetic greed – they are worshipped.
‘Beautifully healthy, healthily beautiful’ DR LIZZIE TUCKEY
For Dr Lizzie, less means more when it comes to cosmetic treatments, resulting in naturallooking outcomes that defy age and scrutiny. Pairing a heavy-weight medical background with a light-touch, Dr Lizzie takes a holistic approach to tweakments, running tests to Dr Lizzie Tuckey
‘Your face has never been in safer, kinder hands’ Dr Michael Prager has featured in Vogue, Tatler, Grazia, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Clare, Red, Good Housekeeping, Hello!, Glamour, GQ, Cosmopolitan, The Daily Telegraph, Sunday Times, Financial Times, Daily Mail, Express, The Sun, Evening Standard, and Channel 4’s 10 Years Younger. Initial consultations are £200, which is offset against first treatments. Botox starts from £595. For a full list of treatments go to drmichaelprager.com; @drlizzietuckey; @thepragerclinic
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and smooth your skin so it’s perkier and less wrinkly – it really is the ultimate facial workout without the sweat. As it’s a static treatment it doesn’t deal with your jawline or neck, so if those areas are your concern, this is (not yet) for you. As with all treatments, it’s your lifestyle choices that will see them work most effectively. For that, read plenty of water to keep hydrated, buckets of vegetables and whole foods and plenty of rest and relaxation. Ouch factor: It’s a bearable, if slightly weird, tweaking sensation that makes you involuntarily gurn every few seconds and can feel a bit hot. That’s the muscle stimulation getting going, while the RF penetrates deeper to perk up your collagen production. Downtime: None. Results: You need a minimum of four sessions and results are best seen after a few weeks. Skin definitely feels tighter and ‘more exercised’ with a sharper cheekbone revealed. Book it: £3,000 for four sessions at Rita Rakus Clinic. drritarakus.co.uk
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BRIGHTER EYES WITH LUMIEYES
BEST FOR: Banishing dark circles and reducing fine lines and wrinkles without filler
What happens: Numbing cream is applied for 30 minutes then Dr De Souza injects a cocktail of mesotherapy containing a blend of enzymes, plant extracts, vitamins and antioxidants that stimulate the skin’s natural tissue regeneration while ensuring deep and lasting hydration. Ouch factor: It feels a touch tingly, if anything. Downtime: Ice packs may be applied to reduce swelling and bruising if necessary, but you can expect to be back to work the same day. Results: An improvement in hollowness, fine lines, and dark circles can be seen instantly. Two sessions two weeks apart every six months is recommended to maintain results. Book it: From £350 per session. drjoneydesouza.com
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A NEEDLELESS FACELIFT WITH EMFACE BEST FOR: Tightening up
cheekbones and forehead – without a needle
What happens: The success of Emsculpt (you know the treatment that is the equivalent of doing a squillion sit ups to give you tighter abs) has led to Emface – the same idea but just, you guessed it, on the face. Dubbed the non-invasive, needleless facelift (read, no filler or botox), it functions as a two-for-one by working intensively on the skin’s outer and deeper layers for double the effect, combining the benefits of radiofrequency and electromagnetic stimulation in one. As a treatment, it feels hugely manageable – as you’re really only required to do four sessions which last 20 minutes a time. You lie down, close your eyes and your therapist will hook you up to the machine via sticky pads on your face and back. It concentrates on the brows, the corners of the mouth and cheeks to really tone
A KISSABLE POUT WITH LAM GLAM LIPS
BEST FOR: Looking the bees’ knees for a big night out
What happens: Dr Uliana Gout would never let you undergo a treatment that didn’t leave you with a completely natural – yet beautifully enhanced – look. This goes for her new Glam Lips procedure (as far from ‘pout trout’ as it’s possible to be, we promise). It’s a super-speedy 15-minute procedure in the chair. After numbing cream is applied and a chat about what you’d like to achieve discussed, she artfully injects your lips with her own hyaluronic cocktail (no filler, here) – the needles are teeny, and the liquid flows through micro-cannulas to achieve an instant glossy and plump effect. Ouch factor: The most uncomfortable part is the anaesthetic, but once it kicks the procedure is painless, only the sensation of pressure being applied can be felt. Downtime: You’re good to go. Results: A deliciously kissable pout, it’s the perfect treatment before a special occasion like a wedding, for example, or when you’re wanting to look and feel your very best self. Book it: Single Treatment £500, programme of four from £1,880. london-aesthetic-medicine.com
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BEST FOR: Volumising and
restoring a saggy bottom due to age or weight loss
What happens: Finally, a buttock-sculpting tweakment that gives impressively perky, yet natural results, without surgery or implants. LanLuma filler is an injectable poly-L-lactic acid dermal filler, which in layman’s terms, means it replaces collagen that has been lost through ageing or rapid weight loss to successfully replenish loose skin. Administered by injection, it goes deep into the skin to stimulate the growth of new collagen and works gradually to smooth and create a natural peachy shape to your bottom, without looking ridiculous. As with any non-surgical treatment, excellent results are in the hands of the injector, and Dr Ahmed El Muntasar’s skill and eye for refining your individual shape is what keeps it looking natural. Ouch factor: There’s a sharp intake of breath when local anaesthetic is injected into the area, but it’s nothing unmanageable. When numb, filler goes in via a cannula during which you can feel a gentle tugging sensation but no pain. Downtime: Applying an ice pack to the area within 24 hours helps reduce bruising and the area needs to be massaged twice per day for two weeks, and no strenuous exercise is permitted for five to seven days. Results: One to four sessions is recommended depending on the individual. An initial improvement is noticeable after eight weeks, though full results happen after six months, lasting from two to five years. Book it: From £800 per session with Dr Ahmed. theaestheticsdoctor.com
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BRIGHTER SKIN WITH 5 BILLION EXO RF FACE TREATMENT BEST FOR: Simultaneously
brightening and tightening skin naturally
What happens: The treatment begins with facial cleansing, before a numbing cream is applied over the face, lips and neck while you lie back and wait for it to kick in (about 25 minutes). When
the anaesthetic has done its magic, Dr. Damree uses a microneedling handpiece with ultra-fine needles to deliver radiofrequency (thermal energy) to the skin in gentle stamping motions, beginning on the neck. In contrast to older technologies that emit constant energy, the Future RF machine utilises small pulses which reduces downtime and minimises damage. In between each pass (a full face) of radiofrequency Dr Damree applies a layer of serum containing five billion medical-grade exosomes with hyaluronic acid before repeating the process a further two times. The whole treatment takes 90 minutes from start to finish. Ouch factor: It’s not a walk in the park exactly – the aim of thermal energy is to create a controlled injury to prompt a healing response – but it’s tolerable
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and mostly painless. Downtime: Skin is red immediately afterwards but that soon subsides within the hour. Skin is tender to begin with, but this is soothed with a healing balm that Dr Damree applies post treatment. Results: A tighter jawline is possible in just one session, as is fat reduction underneath the chin, which improves in the following days and weeks to recontour emerging jowls and droopy skin around the eyes. The effects are subtle at first with significant results evident after three sessions, spread out over a six to 12 week period when collagen and elastin stimulating peaks. A reduction in redness and pigmentation is a delayed and added bonus. Book it: £2,625 with Dr Shameema Damree. urbanretreat.co.uk
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A POSTERIOR PERK WITH LANLUMA X BUM LIFT
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COUTURE PRECISION
In non-surgical aesthetic procedures, as in life, one size definitely does not fit all. That is the guiding principle of Elenique Skin Clinic
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hen mission of clinical aesthetician Elena Cudworth at Elenique Skin Clinic, founded in 2015, has always been to offer bespoke treatments tailored to each individual client’s needs. With years of expertise in skin science and in providing clinical treatments that stand out for their high level of client care, she knows the importance of a thorough consultation and personalised treatment plan: when it comes to getting results, these are paramount. It’s why Cudworth offers a wide spectrum of technologies that allow her to hone in on specific skin conditions with pin-point precision. Her choice of devices is predicated on selecting only medically proven and FDA-approved technologies. Elena Cudworth From ‘soft’ but proven options such as Hydrafacial, Intraceuticals, LED therapy, peels and bespoke skincare prescriptions to non-surgical skin resurfacing and rejuvenation comprising of technologies as such microneedling, radiofrequency, ultrasound and laser. Her Exilis Elite device can harness radiofrequency, ultrasound - or both, to target fat pockets and loose body or facial skin. Her collagen boosting skin rejuvenating system combines microneedling, dermabrasion, peels and LED to heal and rejuvenate
skin on multiple levels. As for lasers, Elenique is one of only a few clinics that has a wide selection of them, acknowledging the very specific benefits that varying lasers offer. Harmony XL Pro comprises a spectrum of wavelengths, pulse widths and applicators to target a variety of concerns from redness to acne lesions to a lack of collagen, without ablating the skin – even in the case of facial resurfacing or tattoo removal. Her Byonik Laser, meanwhile, is an entirely painfree ‘cold’ laser that powerfully subdues inflammation. Like LED light therapy on steroids, it rejuvenates skin on a cellular level and improves conditions as varied as wrinkles, volume-loss and acne. While the Soprano Ice Platinum laser is lauded for its efficiency and safety in removing hair of all textures and shades as well as the lightest to deepest complexions. With its reputation for outstanding client care, at Elenique every treatment is ‘couture’, says Cudworth, making the clinic one of London’s leading aesthetic destinations. Elenique Skin Clinic, 957 Fulham Road, London SW6 5HY; 020 3637 4549; eleniqueaesthetics.co.uk; @eleniqueskinclinic; facebook.com/EleniqueAesthetics1
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SMOOTHER HANDS WITH PROFHILO BEST FOR: Smoothing crepiness
and boosting hydration cautiously
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REVITALISED SKIN WITH NEOGEN PLASMA TREATMENT
BEST FOR: Resurfacing problem skin
What happens: The Neogen Plasma Treatment is a nitrogen gas derived thermal plasma that dramatically accelerates skin renewal, think tighter plumper looking and more even toned skin. This treatment is a godsend for those with problems such as active acne, deep acne scarring, pigmentation or rosacea. Unlike other treatments it can also be used around the eye area and can be used to tighten and lift the skin around the eyelids. Essentially it is a resurfacing treatment so it will improve your skin quality, evenness and elasticity of the skin. Ouch factor: First numbing cream is applied for about 20-30 minutes before the treatment begin. The machine releases a soft noise when the shot is delivered on the skin, followed with a puff of air that you
feel on your face. It’s not painful but you feel a slight heat sensation. Braver clients are known to skip the numbing cream. Downtime: If you opt for the low or medium settings the downtime is about three to five days and for the first three days nothing can be put on your skin, apart from hyaluronic acid. The skin starts to peel in the first few days
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while the cells regenerate. If you opt for a higher setting for deeper scars, or more complex skin problems then the downtime can be two weeks. On the lower settings Ouronyx advise three treatments to see full results. Results: After the initial redness and peeling subsided I could see a huge difference to the evenness and acne scarring, the annoying small spots that I had on my forehead for months had also totally disappeared plus my skin definitely felt plumped. This is a massively effective treatment if you don’t mind a few days of not being able to adhere to your usual skincare routine. The clinic is unlike any others I have visited – set in a palatial building in St James, they take 3D photos of your skin before any treatment to analyse any damage and where to target the skin the most. When you are done, there are professional makeup artists ready to get you ready to face the world again. Book it: From £800 per treatment. ouronyx.com n
PHOTOS: PEXLES; GETTY IMAGES
What happens: A fast acting numbing gel is applied which takes only a few minutes to activate. Dr Jack inserts a needle with hyaluronic acid into the skin’s surface in five key injection points. Over in a matter of minutes, the formulation works to delicately plump thin crepey skin back to its former youthful self – hands are often the first place that show ageing. Ouch factor: It’s over in just a few short minutes and feels no worse than a few sharp pricks. Downtime: None. Though injection sites will appear slightly raised (bumpy) for a day or two following treatment. Results: Profhilo isn’t a dermal filler but a bio-stimulator therefore improvements are subtle, but for those without progressive signs of ageing, that’s the beauty of it. Smoother, plumper skin is seen immediately, while long-lasting hydration takes a few weeks. Think of it as a long lasting moisturiser that doesn’t need reapplying. Though, of course, please continue to apply SPF to prevent further damage. Book it: £450 per hand. drdavidjack.com
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AESTHETICS IN THE HOME COUNTIES
Dr Selena Langdon, founder of Berkshire Aesthetics
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Led by Dr Selena Langdon, Berkshire Aesthetics provides a highly personal and consultative approach to aesthetics
erkshire Aesthetics is a haven for those seeking the best possible aesthetic treatments in a patient-focused clinic. From its purpose-built site on the edge of Pinkney’s Green, the growing team of medical experts deliver cutting-edge treatments in a discreet and relaxed environment. Founded by Dr Selena Langdon, there is a ‘patient first’ approach. A thorough consultation ensures that aesthetic concerns are understood, and treatments are aligned to emotional needs and motivations. The focus is on ensuring the best therapies are offered, which increasingly means combination treatments with an emphasis on skin health as the basis for achieving optimal results. Supporting Dr Langdon is an exceptional team of aesthetic practitioners as well as accomplished Aesthetic Doctors. Dr Mira Mikhail is a GP and Aesthetic Doctor, who expertly uses MaiLi filler to perform wonderful Dr Mira Mikhail patient transformations as well as more discreet tweaks. Her favourite treatment is dermal filler for the midface as it works to support overall structure, reducing the look of tiredness, and restoring a youthful appearance. Dr Dara Suite trained initially in plastic surgery before specialising in aesthetic medicine. She is particularly focused on treating lower facial sagging and skin laxity. Often this involves small amounts of dermal filler placed strategically within the face. This way, her patients achieve Dr Dara Suite maximum results with less product.
At Berkshire Aesthetics, the approach is undoubtedly to ‘consult not sell’ and patient education is key. After an indepth consultation, patients are given the opportunity to ask questions without pressure, commitment, or judgement. Not only does the clinic offer many of the world’s leading treatments but it is integrated with a network of local medical and surgical professionals including plastic surgeons and dermatologists. This cohesive medically-led approach ensures that patients can be supported in their aesthetic goals and general health. Dr Langdon’s commitment to her patients, and the exceptional treatment outcomes she achieves, has seen her profile grow, not only with patients, having won Aesthetic Doctor of the Year 2021, but also with many of the world’s leading aesthetic companies. By working closely with suppliers, the clinic remains at the cutting edge of an ever-changing landscape of treatment options. Berkshire Aesthetics is an exceptional clinic where the highly experienced front of house, practitioner and doctor teams support Dr Langdon in her steadfast belief that aesthetic treatments should be delivered with the utmost care for the patient and their physical and emotional wellbeing. Berkshire Aesthetics, Furze Platt Road, Maidenhead SL6 6PR. 01628 202028; berkshireaesthetics.com
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SCULPTING FACES
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Aesthetic practitioner Dr Nina Bal has honed an ultra-natural look that begins with skin health and ends in self-confidence
rained in dentistry, Dr Nina Bal began studying facial aesthetics extensively 13 years ago and is now considered a leading expert on facial sculpting, a concept Dr Bal created. She is a regular on TV and is often called upon as a guest speaker at renowned industry events such as the Aesthetics Conference & Exhibition and Aesthetic Medicine Live, where she is due to speak this May. ‘I approach each patient’s face holistically from their skin to their facial features – it’s all about improving confidence and self-esteem,’ says Bal who prides herself on her in-depth consultations during which she carefully assesses each patient individually in order to create a bespoke treatment plan. Dr Nina, as her patient’s call her, believes injectables like botulinum toxin and filler should be used in moderation and in combination with medical grade skincare or non-surgical devices, to achieve the fresh-faced look she’s become known for. ‘Injectables like filler have their place, but they shouldn’t be overused, especially when it comes to ageing concerns; filler is a camouflage, it won’t lift a sagging jawline,’ she argues. Dr Nina Bal Formerly a professional skier, Dr Bal is no stranger to achieving accolades. She has won a number of industry awards for her non-surgical results including Highly Commended Aesthetic Practitioner of the Year at the Safety in Beauty Awards 2022, while recently being named one of Tatler’s Top 10 Injectors. For Bal, it always begins with the skin, whether that’s bio-stimulating injectables like Profhilo or lasers like EndoLift, one of her signature treatments. ‘EndoLift is great for tightening skin on the lower face, and is particularly
good for dissolving double chin fat in just one session.’ The procedure, which is performed under local anaesthetic, utilises a small optical fibre (as fine as a human hair) that’s inserted underneath the skin to deliver laser energy directly where it’s needed for skin tightening with lipolysis (fat loss). ‘It’s close to a surgical facelift with minimal downtime – and it only takes one session,’ adds Bal. For resurfacing, she prefers the Lutronic LaseMD Ultra laser. ‘Lutronic targets everything from acne to fine lines and sun damage – or on a lower setting it can boost radiance. It’s a great red carpet treatment.’ When it comes to facial filler, Dr Bal’s clients trust her to put safety first. ‘I use Revanesse, a FDA approved hyaluronic acid filler that’s formulated to minimise adverse reactions, while its spherical particles integrate more seamlessly within the skin tissue,’ she says. Recognising that filler can cause problems in some patients, Dr Bal favours new generation injectables like Nucleadyn, a polynucleotide solution that’s becoming a smarter alternative to tear trough filler for reducing dark circles and rejuvenating the skin. ‘My patient’s biggest concern is being “overfilled” – wherever possible, I like to use treatments that stimulate the body to repair naturally,’ says Bal who won’t add anything to her treatment menu that she wouldn’t use herself. ‘I test everything before I offer it to my patients, so I know what works – and what doesn’t.’ +44 (0)20 3951 9886; info@facialsculpting.co.uk; facialsculpting.co.uk; IG: @drninafacialsculpting; Facebook: drninafacialsculpting; Youtube: @drninabal
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ON CALL
THE A-Z AESTHETIC DOCTORS GUIDE Find an expert from our vetted list of aesthetic wizards who specialise in everything from non-surgical facial lifting to subtle skin enhancements
A-E Dr Anne Mendelovici French-born Dr Mendelovici takes a ‘quality over quantity’ approach to aesthetic medicine. She specialises in non-surgical skin treatments such as mesoglow, profilho and microneedling. @drmendelovici; drmendelovici.com Dr Ariel Haus A genius with lasers, dermatologist Dr Haus and his entire staff are renowned for their professional and welcoming manner at his state of the art clinic on Harley Street. From specific concerns like acne and rosacea to holistic aesthetic treatments, Dr Haus is the king of skin. @drarielhaus; drhausdermatology.com Dr Ashwin Soni A GMC-registered plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Soni specialises in injectable procedures like non-surgical rhinoplasty. He is trusted for his medically safe and aesthetically pleasing results. @thesoniclinic; thesoniclinic.com Dr David Jack With his delicate touch, you’ll never look overdone. If you’re nervous about injectables, he’s your go-to guy for naturallooking results. @drdavidjack; drdavidjack.com Dr Dean Rhobaye Dr Rhobaye has developed a bespoke method of facial harmonisation using dermal fillers and neurotoxins to achieve beautiful results. Winner of the non-surgical facial beautification category at the annual Aesthetic a nd Anti-Aging Medicine World Congress awards, Rhobaye is undoubtedly
a cut above your average injector. @deanrhobaye; sloaneclinic.co.uk Dr Depti Kolli A cosmetic dermatologist, Dr Kolli is a specialist in injectables and state-ofthe-art treatments such as personalised PRP (platelet rich plasma) and mesotherapy to rejuvenate the skin. drsebagh.com
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about ingredients, like retinol, to pregnancy skincare advice. She offers state-of-the-art treatments from PRP (platelet rich plasma) for hair loss to microneedling for skin rejuvenation and can’t-tell lip filler, as well as specific treatments for men. @dr_ifeoma_ejikeme; adoniamedicalclinic.co.uk
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Dr Frances Prenna Jones Known for her red light therapy to give skin an everfresh glow, Dr Prenna Jones is rumoured to have treated a number of high profile models and celebrities. @drfrancesprennajones; drfrancesprennajones.com
Dr Joanna Christou Being a dual qualified dentist and medical doctor has enabled Dr Christou to pursue a special interest in facial musculature when performing non-surgical procedures and creating the discrete, holistic results she is renowned for. @DrJChristou; cosmeticskinclinic.com
Dr Galyna A whizz with the world’s leading high-tech machines, Dr Galyna is the beauty insider’s trusted body guru. From firming jowls to sculpting love handles and tightening down there, her expertise and warm bedside manner make her unique. @dr_galyna; Ritarakus.co.uk
Dr Johanna Ward An awarding-winning cosmetic doctor, GP and expert in cosmetic laser, Dr Ward is a leading figure in the science of preventative anti-aging medicine from both a clinical dermatology and nutrition standpoint. @drjohannaward; cosmeticskinclinic.com
Mr Hagen Schumacher A highly qualified plastic and reconstructive surgeon and a well-regarded NHS consultant, Mr Schumacher specialises in breast surgery, rhinoplasty, eyelid surgery, chin alterations and facelifts. His guiding principle is to improve the confidence and self-esteem of his patients. @hagenschumacher; adore.life
Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh A former surgeon, Dr Sebagh has mastered the art of non-surgical face and neck lifting. One of his signature treatments includes UltraliftTM, using HIFU technology to help slack skin and facial muscles snap back into shape. @drsebagh; drsebagh.com
Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme Dr Ejikeme’s Instagram feed is a landing place for targeted skincare advice including the lowdown on the most-asked
Dr Joney De Souza A pioneer in new technologies, Dr De Souza delivers luminous skin quality through his layering of laser modalities to reduce pigmentation, firm facial
contours and tighten sagging jaw lines. @drjoneydesouza; drjoneydesouza.com Dr Joshua Van der Aa Dr Joshua has honed his skills as an injector by travelling the globe to learn from the best in the field. Known for treating the eye area subtly and precisely he is a master at tricky tear trough filler and non-surgical eye lifts. @drjoshualondon; drjoshuavanderaa.co.uk Dr Judy Todd Dr Todd is the expert celebrities trust for a nonsurgical face lift. Renowned for transforming the neck and lower face, she’s a pro with high-tech machines from Morpheus8 to FaceTite and NeoGen Plasma, the device lauded for Shirley Ballas’s facial transformation. @dr_judy_ todd; cadoganclinic.com Dr Lizzie Tuckey A member of the Royal College of Medicine and the British college of Aesthetic Medicine, Dr Lizzie’s advanced surgical training has given her an edge in both facial rejuvenation and body contouring with a huge emphasis on achieving a natural look. @drlizzietuckey; drmichaelprager.com
M-P Dr Marco Nicoloso An expert injector, Dr Marco Nicoloso isn’t one for aesthetic trends. He takes a holistic approach to the face treating it like a piece of fine art that needs gentle restoration rather than reinvention. He is renowned for creating a subtle look which has gained him a loyal following of discerning clients. @ouronyx; ouronyx. com; @drmarconic
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Dr Marwa Ali With a global client base, men and women travel far and wide for Dr Marwa’s expertise. Never one to overdo it, light injectable enhancements are her thing from artful Botox to undetectable tear trough filler, she combines these with HIFU and IPL, to give her clients luminous skin quality. @dr_marwaali; harrods.com Dr Maryam Zamani An Oculoplastic Plastic Surgeon, Dr Zamani has a passion for facial aesthetics and works both in the US and UK. With a bestselling skincare line including her sell-out LED facial device, Dr Zamani knows that great skin is all about balance. @drmaryamzamani; drmaryamzamani.com Dr Michael Prager Offering what he calls ‘cosmedical wellbeing treatments’ at his Knightsbridge clinic, Dr Prager specialises in natural-looking injectables that boost your confidence without looking as though you’ve had anything done. @dr_michael_prager; drmichaelprager.com Dr Nina Bal Italian born Bal was a professional skier before she studied to be a dentist, and later an advanced aesthetic doctor specialising in facial sculpting treatments, winning her a number of prestigious awards. A TV personality and social media star, clients head to Bal for her natural-look injectables and signature sculpting technologies such as Endolift. @drninafacialsculpting; facialsculpting.co.uk Dr Nyla Raja Dr Nyla combines luxury with doctor-led expertise at her medispa clinics in London, Birmingham and Liverpool. Her signature Transformation Facelift combines proven lifting and tightening devices with fillers and skin rejuvenation for compelling
results that leave nothing to doubt. @doctornyla; doctornyla.com
R-T Dr Rhona Eskander An award-winning cosmetic dentist that specialises in everything from ultra natural veneers to minimal edge bonding, if you’re looking for a youthful smile enhancement, she is a class above. @drrhonaeskander; chelseadentalclinic.co.uk Dr Rita Rakus The indisputable ‘London lip queen’, Dr Rakus is known for creating the perfect pout, while her Knightsbridge clinic houses some of the best cosmetic practitioners and high tech machines from EMface and Softwave to CoolSculpting and Endolift. @ritarakus_; ritarakus.co.uk Dr Sabrina Shah Desai This Oculoplastic Aesthetic Surgeon is the go-to eye expert if you suffer from hollow, drawn under eyes. Her signature treatment, the Eye Boost, combines tear trough filler with complementary modalities to refresh the eyes. @drsabrinashahdesaiofficial; perfecteyesltd.com Dr Selena Langdon A trained plastic surgeon, Dr Selena Langdon is the founder of Berkshire Aesthetics, a patient-focused clinic that specialises in long-term skin health. A skilled injector and CoolSculpting expert, she is internationally renowned for her body treatments. berkshireaesthetics.com; @drselenalangdon Dr Sophie Shotter From face-tightening treatment Profound to the latest hybrid injectable HArmonyCa, Dr Shotter believes all work should look ‘invisible’ to the naked eye. @drsophieshotter; illuminateskinclinic.co.uk
Dr Stefanie Williams A highly regarded dermatologist, Dr Williams is a genius at correcting all kinds of pigmentation with her medical grade facials and combination approach of peels, laser, IPL and freezing techniques to achieve clear, even toned skin. @drstefaniew; eudelo.com Dr Surbhi Virmani With 20 years’ experience in anaesthetics and critical care overseas and within the NHS, Virmani now exclusively practises aesthetics and cosmetic dermatology treating the skin and face harmoniously. A master at correcting pigmentation, other areas of expertise include hand and neck treatments and non-surgical facelifts. @drsvcosderm; cosderm.co.uk Dr Tijion Esho Dr Esho is against cosmetic procedure fads and prides himself on keeping his team up-to-date on advanced non-surgical training at his Wimbledon and Newcastle clinics. The Esho Touch is one of his signature treatments which involves a tailored prescription of filler and anti-wrinkle injections. @theeshoclinic; eshoclinic.co.uk Dr Tracy Mountford With her bespoke, intuitive approach to rejuvenation, Dr Mountford has decades of experience with injectables and knows how best to treat each face by eye. She combines injections with devices like Ultherapy that targets the deeper layers of the skin for longer-lasting results. @the_cosmetic_skin_clinic; cosmeticskinclinic.com
U-Z Dr Uliana Gout From her medical facials to her seven-site injection procedure that treats the face, neck and decolletage, Dr Uliana Gout believes early intervention is key and has published numerous research papers
on preventative ageing. As president of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, her extensive knowledge has led her to develop her ‘intelligent aesthetic’ technique using complementary procedures that target every layer of the face for the most natural looking results. @lam_clinic; london-aestheticmedicine.com Dr Vicky Dondos Author of The Positive Ageing Plan, unsurprisingly Dr Dondos believes in a gentle inside-out approach to natural beauty. Beauty editors prize her injectable skills as being rejuvenating and undetectable. Best for a subtle refresh. @drvickydondos; medicetics.com Dr Victoria Manning and Dr Charlotte Woodward Known for a holistic inside out approach including offering nutrition and fitness advice with minimally invasive treatments, Drs Manning and Woodward are leading experts in Silhouette Soft, a subtle thread lift treatment to reduce sagging. @river_aesthetics; riveraesthetics.com Dr Wassim Taktouk Dr Wassim Taktouk is the insider’s go-to doctor. A master at subtle facial contouring, he is loved by women and men looking for a subtle tweakment. @drwassimtaktouk; drwassimtaktouk.com Dr Yusra Al-Mukhtar A dental surgeon and medical aesthetic clinician, Dr Yusra notched up several years’ experience in maxillofacial and skin cancer surgery before focusing on aesthetic medicine. She is known for her natural, non-surgical facelifts combining dermal filler, thread lifts and advanced devices. @dryusra.almukhtar; dryusra.com n
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PR O M OT I O N Fancy film star skin?
PICTURE PERFECT
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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Introducing Photofabulous™ by Lumenis, the skin perfecting laser treatment that’s designed to give you film star skin
here’s no denying that a clear, radiant complexion is the new measure of youth, and there’s no better way to achieve it than with the new advances in light technology. A far cry from the harsh, ablative lasers of old, Photofabulous™ by Lumenis is an optimally tailored laser treatment that naturally stimulates new collagen and elastic fibres in addition to targeting tone and texture, for picture perfect skin at every age. Designed by Lumenis, a global leader in energy-based solutions, the device delivers the award-winning Stellar M22™ IPL and ResurFX™ technologies sequentially within the same treatment to target both redness and pigmentation as well as fine lines and wrinkles, transforming the clarity and texture of the skin. ‘I’m amazed by the capabilities of the Photofabulous™ treatment, as some of the skin conditions it combats have previously been deemed untreatable,’ says aesthetician and founder of Skin Doctor Clinics, Dr Saleena Zimri. Recognising that the best outcomes are often the result of a prescriptive protocol, thanks to the advancements of Photofabulous™, Dr Zimri is able to adjust the settings to address each patient’s
specific concerns, for a truly bespoke treatment that eliminates the need for separate appointments with different devices. ‘With the combination of Stellar M22™ IPL and ResurFX™ I have seen remarkable results in skin tone and texture in just one sitting,’ says Dr Zimri. ‘The results are incredible.’ With no stone left unturned, Lumenis has included an advanced scanner that projects the laser precisely where it needs to go, while the integrated cooling system helps to minimise discomfort. A convenient lunchtime procedure that takes on average 15-20 minutes, three sessions of Photofabulous™ is recommended for visible improvements in skin texture and fine lines, while three to five appointments at two to four week intervals will transform stubborn areas from vascular lesions to age spots. But, if you simply want to regenerate resilience and radiance, then the laser’s ability to promote collagen and elastin synthesis and plump up lacklustre skin makes it a subtle and natural alternative to lip and facial filler. Lumenis Be (UK) Limited, +44 20 4536 5418; customercareuk@ lumenis.com; lumenis. co.uk; @lumenis
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INTERIORS Edited by Carole Annett
Make yourself at home
Miriam Frowein transformed an office into an intuitively elegant home. By Tessa Dunthorne ‘It began life as an office building – for a tea company,’ interior designer Miriam Frowein explains about her rather unconventional Belgravia home. ‘Which means it’s got a very unusual layout.’
Miriam used art and colour to make an awkward commercial space into an intimate home enviromment
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INTERIORS | Case Study The house spans two floors, each hosting two equally huge rooms, with echoey high ceilings and a curious number of fireplaces. But Miriam and her family weren’t looking to modify this space; rather the goal was to create a home that complemented the quirks of such a layout. ‘But it was a challenge to bring in some warmth and cosiness,’ admits the designer. To create a sense of warmth, Miriam experimented with layering textures and materials. She tells me she is often drawn to tiles in her work – for all their different effects. Huge slabs, for example, would not have worked in this space, as they create what she deems a ‘colder look’. Instead, the kitchen is given some energy with bright terrazzo tiles, which are both hardwearing and practical for this functional space, all the while still allowing the room a character of its own. Other materials help combat the sort of neutrality you’d tend to find in a previously commercial space. Oak, she says, and cream coloured bouclés were her go-to. The fabric was sourced from Schumacher, where her brother-in-law is the European CEO. Miriam suggests that within a daunting space – such as hers, with high ceilings and large, unconventional rooms – careful use of colour is also key. ‘I think colours, and art, really help. In the living and dining rooms, I have tapestries on the wall: they help with the echoing and bring in warmth,’ she explains. Pieces from her family collection are dotted throughout, including enormous 3D fabric sculptures, which work to visually shrink too-big rooms. Lighting, too, can make a room feel that touch smaller, with suspended ceiling lights reducing the sense of dauntingly high ceilings. Creating a home for yourself (especially when your bread and butter is creating such spaces for others) is a curious pressure, Miriam concludes. ‘In any case you don’t want to make mistakes – and because you see more of what’s going on in this industry, you almost find it more difficult to then make decisions for yourself,’ she says. ‘And because it’s your own space, you have a different insight: I know the flow of how I will use it, so my whole process became more intuitive. I know how my little girls will walk around the space, that they will be careful and look after furniture, so I can make different decisions [like choose a cream sofa from Julian Chichester].’ And it certainly is intuitive. In the face of an otherwise challenging space, Miriam has created a real sense of home. n
‘Because it’s your own SPACE, you have a different INSIGHT... so my whole process became more INTUITIVE’
PHOTOS: KATE MARTIN
The designer at home on her Julian Chichester sofa
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YOU TO WOW! WOW! YOU ARE ARE INVITED INVITED TO SUMMER LONDON SUMMER 2023, 2023, LONDON
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OO OM M SS A AND OUTDO 1188 RRO OO O RR SSPPA ACCEESS W ON NEE A AM MA AZ Z II N NG G S O SH HO OW WH HO OU USSEE W W Design Centre, Centre, Chelsea Chelsea Harbour, Harbour, London Design London SW10 SW10 0XE 0XE portion of of ticket ticket sales sales will will be be donated AAportion donated to to TP TP Caring Caring Spaces Spaces “filling charitable spaces with great design” “filling charitable spaces with great design”
DISCOVER MORE MORE AND AND BOOK BOOK NOW DISCOVER NOW AT AT DCCH.CO.UK DCCH.CO.UK
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SKY GARDEN
Brighton-based artist Natasha Coverdale brings her vision of a raucous garden party to East London Parasols Co – find tiny smiling seedlings, clovers and Derek the pink iguana living it up over your head. Handmade in Bali, each comes with a cotton carry case and strap, £475. eastlondonparasols.com
Design NOTES Everything that’s caught Carole Annett’s interiors eye this season
1 Holly Hunt Moray sun lounger, £3,975. hollyhunt.com
2 Kip & Co Majorca stripe woven linen tablecloth, £125. antipodream.co.uk
‘It’s time to FLING open doors and fill your boots with SUNSHINE, from 1 Holly Hunt’s citrus lounger and 2 a lollipop-striped tablecloth to 3 a LIP-SMACKING lemon pizza oven’
3 Gozney limited-edition yellow Roccbox, £399. gozney.com
PHOTOS: ANDREW STEWART
AL FRESCO ALLURE...
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News | INTERIORS SUNSHINE ON TAP
George Smith’s new outdoor furniture features iroko wood combined with waterproof fabrics and hardware – it’s the height of good living, and ideal for emulating indoor style in the garden. Outdoor Edwardian chair, £4,756 and footstool, £1,588. georgesmith.com
LIGHT IT UP
Short order lights are on the menu
JONATHAN ADLER Wellington four-arm sconce, £750. jonathanadler.com
ECO-EATING
Ideal for picnic, travel or office duty, Mnched’s reusable cutlery helps combat single-use plastic with reusable sets. Each contains a knife, fork, spoon, and straw. £27, mnched.com
LIGHTS AND LAMPS Palla marble and brass table lamp, £79. lightsandlamps.com
POP ALONG
Vinterior, the pre-owned furniture marketplace, is at Selfridges for its first ever homeware pop-up (until 17 July). selfridges.com SOANE BRITAIN Rattan bird cage lantern, £5,600. soane.com
ANDREW MARTIN Weller zig zag table lamp in Oslo blue, £850 andrewmartin.co.uk
PHOTOS: ANDREW STEWART
TANG INJECTION
Textile designer Eva Sonaike’s Idunu fabric is inspired by her west African heritage, featuring vibrant orange on beige batik, a pattern derived from intricate decorations of Hausa buildings in northern Nigeria’s largest city, Kano. Tune into the recent House Guest podcast with Eva to hear more about her design inspirations. Ife fabric, £99 p/m. evasonaike.com
JULIAN CHICHESTER Eco large table lamp, £1,008. julianchichester.com
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INTERIORS | Sustainable Trend HAINES COLLECTION Aparici Bohemian tile in blue/natural, £93. hainescollection.co.uk
RETROUVIUS Crystal chandelier (one of two), £3,450+VAT. retrouvius.com
Simone Rocha's SS23 collection showcased her signature fairytale tulle confections... And inspires our next redecoration project
LOUNGE & LINGER Olive parasol. Three day hire, £90. loungeandlinger.co.uk
MAISON MARGAUX Lattice White dinner set, rent £6.80 per item. maisonmargauxltd.com
CANDACE BAHOUTH King & Queen mosaic art mirror, £POA. candacebahouth.com
More is more: Marie Antoinette meets Bridgerton meets the Simone Rocha SS23 catwalk this summer. The trend is all about keeping it light and breezy, with lace, clouds and old school palatial furniture. Oh, and the best part? We've created a sustainable and small-batch line-up. By Tessa Dunthorne
THE OLD CINEMA Regency rosewood teapoy c1820s, £1,450. theoldcinema.co.uk
1ST DIBS English porcelain potpourri vases, c1830, £5,867 per set. 1stdibs.com
WOODCHIP & MAGNOLIA Cameo celestial natural wallpaper, £85. woodchipandmagnolia.co.uk
Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, out now on Netflix, provides opulent fantasy interiors inspiration
1ST DIBS Louis XV Style French striped chaise longue, £3,118.51. 1stdibs.com
PHOTOS: QUEEN CHARLOTTE: A BRIDGERTON STORY STILLS COURTESY OF ©NETFLIX; SIMONE ROCHA SS23 IMAGES COURTESY OF SIMONE ROCHA
AIRY FAIRY
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INTERIORS | Design Moments A bevvy of lamps and lights demonstrating the beauty of slow-crafted materials in a fast-paced world
A functional – but beautiful – space by designer Charlotte Perriand
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DESIGN MOMENTS
Theres Hoyos, founder of ‘slow furniture’ brand Maie, shares her top moments in design
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heres Hoyos is a consummate globetrotter. Born in Austria, her career has spanned the planet: the creative director has lived in New York, Dubai, Hong Kong, and, finally, now London. Perhaps it is this sheer span of geography that led her to an appreciation for the small and the local. In 2020, she founded Maie after having difficulty sourcing certain pieces of furniture for her own home. The brand aims to connect people to local craft (all pieces are made in London) and encourage slow living and considered choices. We asked her about the design inspirations that have informed her career and work. maieliving.com
1 MY EARLY INSPIRATION
‘Charlotte Perriand (1903-1999) was a French architect and designer. Her work aimed to create functional living spaces in the belief that better design helps create a better society. I am forever inspired by the seamless blend of functionality and aesthetics in the early modern movement.’
2 CIRCULAR CREATIVITY
‘Objects made slowly and from recycled materials are now increasingly finding their place in our ultra-fast-paced world. A specific moment that filled me with hope was the Material Matters exhibition last September at Bargehouse. Circular materials offer endless opportunities to turn waste into wonders for interiors.’
3 REIMAGINING OUR HOMES AS DESTINATIONS
‘Moving into a new home on the first day of lockdown gave me the luxury of time to think about every corner of my home as a destination, an ethos that has since led to founding Maie. Today, each of our pieces is designed to inspire moments well lived at home, through conscious choices in form, function and materiality.’
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INTERIORS | Ask the Expert
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SPREAD OUT
Our experts tell us how to make our summer tables as gorgeous as can be
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BLOOMIN’ LOVELY
Use nature as inspiration for your tablescape, says Elad Yifrach, the creative director of the Invisible Collection, which is a curated furniture platform. ‘Nature always wins… The table should be a welcome guest in the outdoors. We created this table with a spring festive mood in mind, using seasonal flowers in full bloom – with the colours of the food and desserts in mind.’ theinvisiblecollection.com
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ZOOM OUT
Look at the wider tones of the outdoor surroundings, says Simon Temprell, interior design manager at Neptune, the kitchens and homeware designers. ‘This tablescape works because we complemented the rustic outdoor setting with furnishings in muted, sympathetic shades of apricot and moss. The grown-up palette blends with the surroundings and creates a romantic dining area.’ neptune.com
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KEEP IT GLASSY
Mix up the glassware that appears on your tablescape, says Daniel Baer, creative director of Monoware, which designs tableware. ‘I love to mix glass bottles and jars with our hand-thrown bud vases to create a varied and decorative tablescape – it adds depth and texture to your table, resulting in a visually arresting display.’ monoware.com n
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HOTELS &
TRAVEL Making Strides Tourism in Africa is booming, paying attention to our desire for a lighter footprint while not sacrificing a first-class experience
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Arrive in style at The Fairmont Mara Safari Club, which offers paid internships to train Maasai tribespeople. Don’t forgo a chance to see the wildlife from the air – and pull up a chair by the watering hole
WILD TIMES: A MULTI-STOP TOUR OF KENYA Countries seeing wildlife as a boon for their
economies ensures conservation of both culture and animals stays top of the agenda, says Caiti
Grove, who enjoys a whistlestop tour of Fairmont’s three Kenyan properties
‘My father killed five lions.’ says Ole Nasi, a tribal leader as he leads us to meet his community in the Maasai Mara, ‘one to prove his worth in the tribe, another as a gift to his wife’s family when they got married, two to protect his cattle, another when he became leader of the tribe. But everything is different now, we see the value of the lions and the tourists who come here to see them.’ The Kenyan government has promised to compensate those who lose cattle to predatory lions, but Ole insists the reality is quite different. ‘That never happens, but we don’t want to kill the lions anymore – they bring us good things.’ Inside the red mud walls of the village, the Maasai men greet us wearing black and fuchsia chequered shukas and sing a celebratory welcome song, some proving their masculine prowess by leaping high in the air. The women of the village join the dancing, and then all fall into a conga line, insistent that we reticent journalists join in too. Inside Ole’s house, he explains the responsibilities he has as leader: marriage counselling, meeting other tribe leaders to discuss droughts and their economy, overseeing justice for crimes committed by or against his community. At the nearby Fairmont Mara Safari Club, a walled garden surrounds a scattered group of luxury tented rooms complete with four-poster beds and bathrooms that sit on a raised-up platform of oak . Outside, large wooden balconies look out to the Mara River where hippos fight in the early morning and monkeys jump through the canopy that shades the lush garden below.
Six Maasai tribespeople receive paid internships each year to train in all areas of hospitality, and all those who learn the course have found employment in other hotels in the area. ‘Sustainability is not just about the environment,’ Steve Keriga, the hotel manager, tells me firmly, ‘we believe it is about culture too. By training the Maasai, the community can stay together, and their children are able to go to school – it’s a circular economy and we must educate the new generation who need skills to work in jobs where they are needed.’ Just south of the border, the Tanzanian government are currently attempting to evict 167,000 Maasai people from 1,500 sq/km of land where they have lived for generations. Under the guise of conservation, the land will be leased to a trophy-hunting firm while the displaced Maasai tribes are relocated to smaller plots several hundred miles south. Here at the Fairmont, property ownership is the reverse: Maasai families lease their land to luxury hotels to support their families
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Kenya | HOTELS & TRAVEL
with a sustained income, while staying on the land that they consider sacred. At 5am we wake up to a cup of coffee and the sound of hippos at war in the muddy river. It is a safari day, and we are up before the light to see the animals before they – and we – retreat from the intense midday sun. After a 40 minute drive into the plains, we pass another early morning car; they have spotted a cheetah. She isn’t alone though – she is lies under a tree with two cubs with her and all three bask together in the warm morning sunlight, licking their paws. After half an hour, they saunter across our path, on the lookout for a kill. Fifty feet away, two giraffes eat from the tops of acacia tree. We pass a herd of elephants, some with calves, while a herd of nervous zebra canter past. Suddenly our car comes to an abrupt stop. Remarkably, our guide has spotted a male lion asleep under a tree, his tail twitching in irritation from flies. He was the smallest of his litter but now as an adult, he has just killed his brother’s five cubs, suspected of belonging genetically to a nearby pride of rival lions. On the other side of the bush, a lioness retreats into the shade. They are engaged in a day-long ritual of mating and sleeping, and they aren’t shy about it: in fact, they got down to full copulation four metres from our open jeep. Our mouths agog, we drive back to the hotel, telling a prudish half-story over lunch to fellow journalists. After three days, the second stop of our tour awaits: the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club in Nanyuki. Sitting 2,135 metres above sea level at the foot of Mount Kenya, trekkers from the mountain come here to recover in the hundred acres of landscaped gardens where llamas and antelope graze on the manicured lawns beside
The Fairmont Mount Kenya, which sits in the foothills of the mountain
the heated (24°) pool. Built in 1904, it retains old-school glam in spades. During the day, we visit the hotel’s animal orphanage where zoo keepers encourage monkeys, emus, cheetahs and warthogs abandoned by their groups or kept as pets to fend for themselves before their release into the wild. There is also a conservation project dedicated to the bongo, an animal so quiet that our expedition to see them in the wild fails almost completely. When the tame herd emerges to feed, they are as big as a large deer, bright ginger with white stripes running vertically across their back and big black horns that lie close against their heads. Almost extinct – their skin was used to make bongo drums – these are the last hundred in the world. The Fairmont is running a breeding programme, opposed by the hungry local cheetahs who deplete their numbers. Our third stop is Fairmont’s hotel in Nairobi. After the vast plains rolling out to the horizon, the heavy traffic of the city is surreal, but there is a beautiful garden courtyard and the prospect of galleries, bars and buzzy city life. In the south of the city, a 45 sq/mile national park is home to 70 black and white rhinos and 50 lions in seven prides – a fast-track safari without the early mornings. We even see a male lion kill a small deer and drag the kill under a tree, all less than an hour from the city-centre hotel. A land of conflict and contrast but a wonderful experience to stimulate the heart and mind. It’s the start of a new dawn for Africa’s local people and wildlife. BOOK IT: Seven-night, three-stop stay at Fairmont The Norfolk, Fairmont The Mara and Mount Kenya Safari Club, from $6,000pp based on two people sharing, including transfers, accommodation, meals, game drives and park fees. fairmont.com
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PERFECT PEACE: THANDA PRIVATE ISLAND
Thanda Island is so sought-after it’s more akin to a members’ club, but it also scores high on sustainability, says Abi Butcher
The Shungimbili Island Marine Reserve in Tanzania teems with sea life. Home to around 300 fish species, from bottlenose and humpback dolphins to green and hawksbill turtles, the jewel in its crown are the whale sharks, for which visitors to Thanda, the reserve’s exclusive-use luxury hotel, get front-row seats. Since opening in 2016, Thanda Island has been so sought-after that it now operates as a members’ club, allowing owners and staff to nurture both surroundings and guests alike. Committed to protecting the environment and endangered species, Thanda operates with a minimal carbon footprint, working to regenerate surrounding coral reefs and employing local Swahili staff to foster pride in the local nature. A newly installed solar plant supplies energy for Thanda’s five-suite villa and rustic bandas. Its desalination plant processes 10,000 litres of water a day, with rainwater and grey water collected and recycled for the island’s expanding kitchen garden where tomatoes, beans, herbs and even passion fruit are grown in compost created from food waste. Recycling is impressive: sorted and shipped by traditional dhow to Dar es Salaam, tracked with a monthly report, while any remaining landfill is incinerated. It’s a tight ship and one that works thanks to manager Anti and her team of 45 inspirational staff who work tirelessly to create bespoke, luxury once-in-a-lifetime experiences for up to 18 guests. To spend a day at Thanda is to explore paradise. Whether you are whisked to nearby Chole Island to dive at dawn then lunch among the labyrinth of 18th-century ruins or taken on a private safari to swim with whale sharks, nothing is too much. South African chef Ulla conjures magic from local produce – Mafia mud crab with a delicate fennel, apple and radish salad followed by changu (a local white snapper) grilled over a coconut tree barbecue, and then mandazi, a local donut, heaving with sugar and cinnamon. Sundowners are best enjoyed aboard Thanda’s creaking wooden dhow before dinner and a film night under the stars. The island has a pool, gym, tennis court and watersports centre and by observing it from the water one truly understands this unique place. No plastic chokes the sea life here and a circumnavigation of Thanda by paddleboard – taking roughly an hour – allows up-close-and-personal encounters with blue-spotted stingrays, baby black-tipped reef sharks, small pink crabs and vivid blue starfish. Heaven. BOOK IT: All-inclusive rates start from $33,300 per night (sleeps up to 18). Minimum stay five nights. thandaisland.com
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Kenya | HOTELS & TRAVEL
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MAJESTY IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN MOUNTAINS
On the fringes of the UNESCO-protected Table Mountain National Park, Future Found Sanctuary is a haven of calm and tranquility, says Lizzie Pook
Tucked into the protea-flecked foothills of South Africa’s mighty Table Mountain, Future Found Sanctuary feels like a secret you won’t want to let anyone else in on. Surrounded (and scented) by the cape’s unique fynbos shrubland and standing at the doorstep of the lush Constantia winelands, it provides a languorous escape from electric central Cape Town. Two villas – one with four bedrooms, one with five – are available for exclusive use or can be booked by the room. Festooned with modern African art, flooded with natural light and each with their own sun-doused lap pools, they both flank a cheering, flourishing central garden, bursting with dizzyingly bright bird of paradise plants and purposeful bees. Much of the produce used by the Sanctuary’s private chefs is sourced from this cornucopia: figs, olives, artichokes and limes, as well as beetroot and passionfruit plants, woven through a pretty pergola dotted with fairy lights for outdoor dining. The resulting dishes – seared tuna and garlic-dusted broccoli; foraged fynbos salad and feta; deconstructed ricotta cheesecake sweetened with the syrup of plump granadillas – are some of the lightest yet most flavourful I’ve tasted. The owner’s villa is also onsite, and you’ll find no reception desks or check-in clipboards here. Instead, guests are made to feel entirely at home, welcomed to wander the seven acres and connect with their senses – sniffing the freesias, watching the iridescent flash of passing sunbirds, taking a dip in the bracing freshwater pond. There is a firm focus on wellness too, with treatments on offer designed to get the body in line with earth’s natural rhythms, from acupuncture and hot stone massages to energy healing and gut-trembling sound bath sessions. I found most comfort in the restorative yoga, with my instructor Carla gently leading me through a series of restful poses using pillows, blankets, bolsters and eye masks to provide optimal support and soothe my body’s highly strung central nervous system. Those seeking something brisker can take a guided Table Mountain hike to Myburgh’s waterfall, where falcons wheel overhead and the sun sets the dripping, mossy wall of the ravine ablaze with glitter. But it’s the little touches here that impress the most: warm cinnamon and coconut milk left beside my bed at night; enlivening natural scent pumped throughout the villa; and butlers on hand to see to your every need. It’s so impressive and so utterly spoiling, I just wish I could keep it all to myself. BOOK IT: Stays at Future Found Sanctuary start from £357 per night, based on two sharing, including breakfast, harvest table lunch, airport transfers, daily yoga and laundry. futurefoundsanctuary.com
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A CLASSIC REIMAGINED: ANDBEYOND’S GRUMETI SERENGETI RIVER LODGE
In a far-flung area of the Serengeti in Tanzania, far from the marauding hordes of safari-goers, this newly rebuilt lodge are where wildlife and
people come together in staggering surrounds, says Emma Love
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Set on a winding tributary of the Grumeti River in the uncrowded western Serengeti corridor, this recently rebuilt lodge has a showstopping central circular bar, with a huge light installation above, from where guests can sit watching the resident pod of hippos wallowing in the water. To one side there’s a open living area (banana leaf ceiling, colourful kitenge fabric sofas, carved wooden sculptures); to the other is the restaurant, for long lunches of dishes such as crispy prawn cakes followed by pappardelle and lamb ragout. There’s ten suites, each with elephant hide-inspired grey-green walls, ginormous bathrooms and a plunge pool on the deck (there’s also a communal infinity pool with wooden loungers and swing-seats near to the contemporary, glass-fronted gym). This part of the Serengeti is known for its big lion prides but there is plenty of other wildlife to look out for on game drives too, from topis and hyenas to giraffes and jackals. A sunrise hot air balloon ride across the plains is a must, as are evening gin and tonics around the boma followed by a steak dinner under the stars. BOOK IT: Rooms at start from $1,135pp per night. andbeyond.com n May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 183
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THE DATAI LANGKAWI: CELEBRATING 30 YEARS The Datai Langkawi is a five-star luxury resort located in the heart of Malaysia’s ancient rainforest. The hotel overlooks the picturesque golden sands of Datai Bay, named by National Geographic as one of the top ten beaches in the world. It was originally designed by architect Kerry Hill, who had the vision to create a hotel in symphony with nature. The hotel was lovingly renovated in 2018 by architect Didier Lefort, who was part of the original design team. The following year, the hotel founded The Datai Pledge, a sustainability and conservation trust that supports Langkawi’s unique fauna, flora and communities – the on-site Nature Centre and Upcycle Lab encourage guests to participate in local conservation efforts. Today, the hotel has 121 rooms, suites and villas, all with views of the lush tropical rainforest, and some with the breathtaking vista of the azure Andaman Sea. The open-air spa is a sensory experience, and incorporates potent local plants and techniques in its ‘Ramuan’-based treatments, derived from practices and knowledge passed down over centuries by local shamans. The Datai Langkawi is widely celebrated for its culinary offering, and its cuisine is second-to-none, with world-class chefs such as Michel and Sébastien Bras, and Nils Henkel visiting as part of its Chef Series. thedatai.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES Malaysia Airlines is the only non-stop service from London Heathrow to Kuala Lumpur operating a double daily service with fast connections to an extensive domestic network including Langkawi. Travellers from London will experience Malaysia Airlines’ luxurious airport lounges and state-of-the-art Airbus A350-900, which features its elegant business class cabin where comfort is taken to a whole new level with flat bed seats. There is a chef-on-call fine dining experience including the Signature Satay service, an experience enjoyed by travellers since the airline first took to the skies. Malaysia Airlines represents the rich heritage of Malaysia, sharing the incredible diversity, its rich traditions, cultures, cuisines and warm hospitality with the world, welcoming passengers as they would guests in their own home. See malaysiaairlines.com for more information
TERMS & CONDITIONS: The prize is valid for travel between 01 September 2023 until 30 June 2024, with the exception of blackout dates: 11 December 2023 to 28 February 2024 and 20 March 2024 to 10 April 2024. Travel must be completed by 30 June 2024. Booking must be made no later 31 August 2023. Seats and booking confirmation are subject to availability at the time of booking. Both passengers must travel together. Accommodation at The Datai Langkawi is based on seven nights for two people on full board (daily signature buffet breakfast, lunch at The Dining Room or The Beach Club, and 3-course dinner at The Pavilion, The Gulai House or The Beach Club, includes non-alcoholic beverages during mealtimes), including return transfers to Langkawi International Airport. This will be subject to availability at time of booking, the resort will confirm when request is received. The winner and their guest must be over 18 years of age. The prize does not include travel insurance, visas, meals or any other costs of a personal nature not stated (including spending money) for the winner and their companion. The prize must be taken as stated and no compensation will be payable if a winner is unable to use the prize as stated. Winners must ensure that they have valid passports, visas and travel insurance at the time of travel. No responsibility will be taken if the winners are unable to travel due to insufficient documentation. The Malaysia Airlines ticket/s you have been awarded are non-transferable and non re-routeable in any way. This means that your ticket cannot be transferred into another person’s name and it cannot be exchanged or sold for cash and cannot be changed to any origin or destination. All flights are to depart and arrive from London Heathrow Airport.
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SUN LOVING SONEVA
The ESCAPIST
In a destination as sunny as the Maldives, harnessing solar power is a no brainer. Soneva Fushi, in fact, was one of the first resorts to install a solar power facility in the Maldives in 2008. Now, the brand has taken things a step further and will expand its solar power developments with $10 USD million of funding. Using photovoltaic and battery hybrid systems, the aim is to boost electricity generated from renewable energy to over 50 percent at both resorts by the middle of this year. soneva.com
Lauren Ho is dreaming of new horizons and renewable escapes
ZOOMING INTO THE FUTURE
Soon airports - with all the hassle and energy costs associated with them - will be given a run for their money when NightJet, the sleeper arm of Austria’s national railway, launches its new trains. By 2025, a fleet of 33 NightJet trains will be zipping between European cities, including Vienna, Zurich, Rome, Milan, Budapest and Berlin, each train of seven carriages carrying 254 passengers at a speed of 230km/h. Dressed in a futuristic palette of moulded white edges and grey trim, the sleeping pods look like stage-sets straight out of a sci-fi flick, with locks on doors for security and, well, privacy. nightjet.com
NATURE IS HEALING
Much-loved Heckfield Place has upped its game with the arrival of The Bothy by Wildsmith. Ensconced beyond a secret door of the house’s original walled garden, the new 17,000 sq/ft space is home to skincare brand Wildsmith Skin and is dedicated to nurturing health and wellbeing with six treatment rooms, outdoor hydrotherapies, healing thermal experiences and the Sun Room, an indoor/outdoor dining space with a small plant-based menu helmed by culinary director Skye Gyngell. heckfieldplace.com 186 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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News | HOTELS & TRAVEL
FIVE HOT NEW OPENINGS
A WILDER WELLNESS ESCAPE
African conservation and safari brand Singita is on a mission to balance out all the eating, drinking and excess of luxury safari breaks with the launch of its new wellness philosophy. Called ‘Wholeness’, the idea is to incorporate wellbeing into every element of the guest experience, including daily yoga sessions, healthy meals with more plant-based additions and low-alcohol options, alongside spa treatments that use local ingredients like sand from the river banks in a foot scrub ritual. singita.com
YOUR CORONATION CONCIERGE
In commemoration of King Charles III’s coronation on 6 May, classically British group, PoB Hotels, has taken things to the next level and launched a dedicated complimentary Concierge Service with the aim to help its guests plan the ultimate royal itinerary according to their requirements and desires. From London’s Goring – a firm favourite of the Royal Family – to Prestonfield in Edinburgh, many of the group’s stellar collection of 54 properties have royal links, making it the perfect way to celebrate tradition and the British Royal Family this spring and summer. pobhotels.com
ISLA BROWN CHANIA, Crete, Greece Isla Brown Chania features a clean, organic design concept in earthy tones, three restaurant concepts, an outdoor bar and lounge area. From €260, brownhotels.com
THE ROME EDITION, Rome, Italy Housed within a historical building a few steps from the Spanish Steps, EDITION Hotels’ first Italian property will feature a rooftop terrace and pool overlooking the city. €640, editionhotels.com
NO.42 BY GUESTHOUSE, Margate, UK Collaborating with some of the seaside town’s many creatives, the warm and eclectic interiors embrace Margate’s background with British-made furniture. From £155, guesthousehotels.co.uk
MAMULA ISLAND, Boka Bay, Montenegro Occupying an abandoned 19th-century fortress, Mamula Island features a memorial museum, and restaurants and bars headed up by chef Erica Archambault. From €500, mamulaisland.com
LIKE A ROYAL
Another coronation-themed offer, Pelorus has pulled out all the stops with a series of royal-inspired experiences throughout England and Scotland fit for a king. From helicoptering over London to see the royal sights from above to a decadent afternoon tea experience in the Cotswolds complete with a royal butler, or even dinner on a superyacht docked opposite the Tower of London, use the opportunity to take a peek behind the royal curtain and make the most of this historic event. From £10,000 for two, pelorusx.com
VERMEHLO, Melides, Portugal Christian Louboutin’s first hotel project is in the charming community of Melides. He worked with local artisans on 13 beautiful bedrooms, restaurant and bar. From €400, vermelhohotel.com
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Crossing one of Amsterdam’s famous canals – hopefully by bike
Canalside Cool
No longer just a destination for stag parties (in fact, they’re positively discouraged), Amsterdam has reinvented itself as Europe’s capital of cool – and culture. Fiona Duncan goes to stay in some of the city’s vibrant new boltholes
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PULITZER HOTEL Canal house luxury. The Pulitzer consists of not one but 25 adjoining 17th and 18th century canal houses, each one different externally but knitted together internally to create a fabulous 225-room hotel fronting gracious Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht in Amsterdam’s best bit: the charming and buzzy Nine Streets neighbourhood. The location is perfect. Back in the early Sixties, Peter Pulitzer was the first to fashion a hotel out of canal houses: he purchased ten, which grew eventually to 25. In 2016, they were reimagined by Jacu Strauss of the Lore Group, which perfectly
mixes quirkiness and character, including historic references, with a fresh, contemporary feel. The hotel is full of surprises, from zany decorative touches mixed with original features and colour palettes taken from Vermeer’s masterpieces to sudden open spaces, including the tranquil inner garden hidden in the heart of the hotel and two classic boats for touring the canals. The food’s excellent too: popular neighbourhood restaurant Jansz serves modern Dutch dishes and the sultry bar is a great place for a cocktail. Doubles from €399. pulitzeramsterdam.com
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PHOTOS: © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; PEXELS
msterdam has become adept at re-purposing old buildings as hip hotels. You might choose The Crane by Yays (yays.com), a vintage crane in the former Eastern Docklands (achingly romantic) or Sweets, a collection of bridge operator cabins all over the city (sweetshotel.amsterdam), converted into independent hotels suites (cute). Or you could opt for one of these four rather less unusual but nonetheless fun and vibrant hotels, which all make excellent bases if you are lucky enough to have tickets to the once-in-a-lifetime Vermeer exhibition at the Rijksmuseum, on until 4 June. Even if you haven’t managed to bag a ticket, the exhibition has put Amsterdam in the spotlight, reminding us what a wonderful place it is for a short break.
Amsterdam | HOTELS & TRAVEL
CAPITAL OF CULTURE Amsterdam is the ultimate easy destination for a weekend break, with a thriving cultural and foodie scene
HOTEL V NESPLEIN With a location in the middle of Amsterdam’s theatre district, here is a repurposed office building with a funky new look, typical of nicely unpredictable modern Dutch design, employing retro furniture, mustard yellow walls and old theatre posters plus a chandelier hung to waist height and a hearth suspended from its own chimney. The Lobby bar and restaurant, always buzzing, spills onto a large terrace. Doubles from £196. hotelvnesplein.nl
CULTURE House de Brakke Grond is the first port of call for contemporary Flemish arts, including experimental theatre, live poetry and performance art (brakkegrond.nl). Meanwhile, Mediamatic’s interactive installations and events blur the boundaries between art and biotech (mediamatic. net), and De Appel encourages new curators to create something different (deappel.nl). HISTORY The Grachten Museum tells the story of how a fishing village turned into the modern capital (grachten.museum). The Het Scheepvaartmuseum explores Holland’s naval history (hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl). The Verzets Resistance Museum displays tales of the Dutch Resistance in WWII, as well as Amsterdam under German occupation (verzetsmuseum.org). Head to brunch at Louie Louie
HOTEL ARENA
Amsterdam’s new, plantcovered Valley building
PHOTOS: © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; PEXELS
Built as an orphanage, Arena is now an airy contemporary hotel in an equally airy location overlooking Oosterpark. Inside, there’s a glass-walled café/restaurant (brilliant buffet breakfast) and cool minimalist-meets-Seventies interior design. Doubles from £172. hotelarena.nl
FOOD Make your first pitstop Saint Jean, a hip bakery serving up stylish caffeine fixes and plant-based pastries (saintjean.nl). Break for lunch at Louie Louie, washed down with cocktails (louielouie.nl). For dinner, make a reservation at Michelin-starred Green, which offers a gourmet vegan menu and fab views from its top-floor spot on Amsterdam’s innovative new Valley building (gastrobargreen.nl).
VOLKSHOTEL In the former offices of De Volkskrant newspaper, this is a ‘place for everyone, a hotel of the people’ according to Volkshotel and that’s just what it feels like. Canvas, the rooftop former canteen becomes a nightclub at weekends; there’s artists in residence; communal tables in the lobby; live music, newsprint wallpaper, people working; people chatting; people eating and drinking – you get the drift. Rooms are simple, rational and comfortable. An affordable, artistic hub. Doubles from €112. volkshotel.nl
NIGHTLIFE Head to Mata Hari (named after the exotic dancer and double agent) for cocktails or beers by the side of the canal (matahari-amsterdam.nl). Wine fans will love GlouGlou, a natural wine bar serving bottles from the Netherlands and beyond (glouglou.nl), while those wanting to go out-out need to add Murmur to their list (murmurmur.nl) .
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9 - 11 JUNE 2023 At Stourhead, Wiltshire
Three days of naturebased sustainable design Talks, workshops, design, nature, food, market stalls & installations Book tickets in advance planted-community.co.uk
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PHOTO: © MOWIE KAY
FOOD&DRINK
What a Tart!
A simply scrumptious summer lunch idea from Kathy Kordalis May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 191
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FOOD & DRINK | Recipe
PICTURED ON PREVIOUS PAGE
SERVES 4–6 — 2 courgettes, cut into 5mm slices — 1 aubergine, cut into 5mm slices — 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling — 3 large tomatoes (a mixture of different colours looks nice), cut into 5mm slices — 320g sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry — 4 tablespoons mascarpone — 2 mozzarella balls, sliced — 1 egg, beaten to glaze — fresh basil leaves, to garnish — 100g roasted red (bell) peppers from a jar, sliced — Sea salt and black pepper
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 220°C fan/240°C. Lay the courgette and aubergine slices out on a couple of large baking sheets and brush them on both sides with two tbsps of the olive oil. Season, roast in the preheated oven for ten mins until starting to soften, then leave to cool for ten mins. Meanwhile, pat the tomato slices dry and leave to drain on paper towels. Put a large baking sheet on the top shelf of the oven to heat up. Unroll the puff pastry sheet on a floured work surface and roll out further in one direction to make a square about 3mm thick, then trim off the corners to make a 30cm round disc. Transfer the pastry circle to a large piece of non-stick baking paper so that it’s easier to move once it’s assembled. Spread the mascarpone over the centre of the pastry, leaving a 5cm border round the edge. Season with salt and pepper. Layer up slices of courgette, aubergine, tomato, red peppers and mozzarella and arrange on top of the mascarpone in a spiral or concentric circles. Drizzle with another tbsp of oil and fold in the sides to overlap the filling slightly, making a 3-4cm wide crust. Brush the crust with egg, sprinkle with salt and slide the tart, on its paper, onto the hot baking skeet in the oven. Bake for 20-25 mins until the pastry is puffed and golden, and the vegetables have softened. Leave to rest for at least 20 mins. Serve warm or at room temp, scattered with basil and drizzled with oil.
Foodie TALES
Asparagus – best served charred at this time of year
Mediterrenean Summer Table by Kathy Kordalis (Ryland, Peters & Small Ltd, £20) is out now n
PHOTOS: © MOWIE KAY
Ratatouille Tart with Mascarpone, Mozzarella & Basil
What’s your food philosophy? It is Mediterranean-based – all the Food stylist and writer foods I grew up with in my Greek Kathy Kordalis family, with an Australian sensibility: light, relaxed, approachable and easy. First dish you learnt to cook? Spanakopita with homemade filo. It was my grandmother's treat for us on a weekly basis, and as young children we all played with the dough and rolled out our mini versions. Favourite in-season ingredient? There are so many fabulous ingredients available in May and June, it's when the sun is out after a long winter and the end of spring, For me, it's the time of salads, with charred asparagus, new potatoes, green leaves and a simple vinaigrette. Biggest food mistake? For an early date with my now-husband, I decided to treat him to a nice home-cooked meal: a salt-crusted roast chicken that was so salty it was completely inedible, followed by a pink blancmange that looked like something the cat brought up. Even though the food was a disaster, we had a good laugh and it's a happy memory to this day! Most memorable meal out? I had a wonderful afternoon-long lunch at The Ledbury, pre-lockdown, so it seems a lifetime ago. It epitomised everything that fine-dining should be: a fantastic culinary experience complemented by a welcoming, relaxed environment and top-notch service. I haven’t been back since it reopened, I really hope that the Raised in Australia by Greek parents, old magic has not been lost. Kathy Kordalis brings a light touch When you’re not in the kitchen, where are you? Exploring London to her Med-inspired dishes by foot. People watching, discovering new food haunts, little markets, greengrocers and new friends. Do you have any unique cooking rituals? Ultra-strong coffee. I love to add it to a stew or a chilli – just a drizzle for depth of flavour. What's in your fridge? Feta, olives, chorizo and batchroasted vegetables. This combination itself makes a lovely meal, but you can add these to almost any type of salad, or with soup as a side... the list is endless. Dream dinner date? I still dream of my husband surprising me with a lovely meal one day. Even a baked potato would be nice, sometimes! What is one piece of sustainable food advice you’d give to our readers? Buy fresh and local produce – especially honey, where foreignsourced blends are all-to-often adulterated with sugar syrup.
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MAKE A DIFFERENCE
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River Action UK is a highly impactful charity on a mission to rescue Britain’s rivers from a deluge of agricultural, sewage and industrial pollution, and we need your help! www.riveractionuk.com info@riveractionuk.com @riveraction
CHARITY PARTNER 2023
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FOOD & DRINK | News BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE The King loves a wee dram, so by royal decree, raise an opulent glass of Glenturret’s The Provenance, a 33-yearold single malt in a limited release Lalique crystal decanter. £POA, theglenturret.com
WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER
On snack duty for your royal soirée? Impress with your patriotic flair… Tyrells has launched its Coronation Chicken crisps, so you can cheers Charlie with a crunch. £2.75, tyrellscrisps.co.uk
Gastro GOSSIP Tessa Dunthorne decrees these feasts fit for a King
BEARSKINS AND BISCUITS
Stage your own edible coronation. Your very own lemon-iced King, Consort and whole crew come packaged in a charming commemorative tin. Be warned: it might feel treasonous to eat them – but we won’t blame you for decimating the crown in one go. £58, biscuiteers.com
LONG LIVE THE BAG
Stash your street party goodies in Fortnum’s adorable blue limitededition bag for life. Hooray for a coronation keepsake that you’ll get use out of for years to come. £12.95, fortnumandmason.com
FOR KING AND CLOT TED CREAM You’ ll want to tuck into these royally good afternoon teas
THE GORING, LONDON Spoil yourself with King Charles’ favourite cakes and sandwiches , served up on The Goring’s sun-kissed veranda with a glass of Bolly. thegoring.com
CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE Sweet delights and scones piled high, inspired by the King’s Royal Gardens, using ingredients from Sandringham. cliveden house.co.uk
THE BOLLINGER BURLINGTON BAR, LONDON Bubbly from the best – and with beautiful delicacies from Didier Merveilleux, this afternoon tea is a treat fit for a King. champagnebollinger.com
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Restaurants | FOOD & DRINK
Destination: DINNER
Curious about Nine Elms? Oxeye alone is one reason to visit, says Lucy Cleland
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PHOTOS: © ANTON RODRIGUEZ; © MATT RUSSELL; © SUSANNAH ALLTIMES
hile the reinvention of Battersea Power Station might be tempting Chelsea denizens to cross the river; there is another reason too. Wander ten minutes towards Vauxhall, and the new, rather bonkers-looking American Embassy (heavily guarded), and you’ll stumble upon one of the most exciting foodie gems to have sprung up in the capital within the last couple of years. Oxeye is the debut restaurant of Ritz-trained, Masterchef The Professionals: The Rematch-winning Sven-Hanson Britt, who, with no financial backing other than from friends and family, finally got to create the place he’d always dreamt of. As farm-to-fork as it’s practical to be (a lot comes from a single Derbyshire farm), the produce may be fundamentally British, but the influence of Sven’s Japanese wife Kae Shibata provides thrilling Asian twists (xo sauce, daikon, koshihikari and cherry blossom feature in our menu). The wine-list, too, is as quirky and imaginative as the food (sommelier Luca is a charming oenological raconteur). Oxeye delivers distinctly on three levels: intimacy (there are only six tables); ingredients (impeccably sourced) and theatre. You’re led past a curtained room – which we learn later will become a bar – and introduced to your main event ingredients in their whole form (for us it’s duck and turbot) and given a palette-cleansing green tea kombucha, before entering the main restaurant through another curtain. And here continues the drama (culinary, not luvvy), where each morsel is more than the sum of its part: it’s pure alchemy, down to the bread. This heritage wheat sourdough
with soft chunks of smoked potato baked in comes with Guernsey cream infused with the hay in which those potatoes were smoked. It is possibly the best bread I’ve ever had. And when the basics are this good, the Instagram-frenzy-making tasting menu ups its game with each course. The slice of turbot comes with the most intense ‘roast chicken’ sauce (don’t ask me what’s in it); the duck, aged in Himalayan salt, is served with crassane pear, bitter leaves and armagnac (alchemised, natch). Then the first act ends. The interval comes in the form of a glass of soft, pale, delicate green tea, before tastes buds are aroused once more by the second, sweeter act. It is Kae, co-founder and head chocolatier at Cartografie who, with her handmade chocolates, provides the rapturous encore to a performance that is audience-winning. With menus changing seasonally, this is a culinary play that I hope will give The Mousetrap a run for its money. Evening tasting menu, £95. Also open for lunch, from £35. oxeyerestaurant.co.uk
FOR SECONDS
JOIA, BATTERSEA Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Pessoa made his name at his two Michelin-starred restaurant Alma in his home city of Lisbon. He’s brought his signature vibrant interpretation of his native cuisine to Battersea with new restaurant Joia, located on the top floor of new must-visit Art’otel, which has unbeatable views of the power station and London skyline. joiabattersea.co.uk
ARCHWAY, BATTERSEA You can’t beat a cosy neighbourhood restaurant. Archway is located in an old railway arch in Battersea, and offers a menu of delectable Italian-inspired dishes by head chef Alex Owens, previously of The River Cafe and The Ledbury. The small wine list is wellconsidered, and everything is done with a focus on produce, people and planet. archwaybattersea.co.uk
PLOUSSARD, CLAPHAM JUNCTION Sharing is caring at Ploussard, the new small plates restaurant at Clapham Junction. It’s a new direction for owners Matt Harris and Tommy Kempton, also of chicken joint Other Side Fried. Ploussard is a tad more gourmet, with a menu that includes angus beef with brown oyster mushroom, lamb and anchovy crumpet, and natural wines. ploussardlondon.co.uk
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PROPERTY Edited by Anna Tyzack
HOUSE OF THE MONTH
Fitzhardinge Street W1H Three bedrooms, two bathrooms , 2,725 sq/ft £11.95m
Sell it to us in a sentence… Designed by Milanese designers Studio Peregalli, this beautiful apartment spans two Georgian buildings on one of Marylebone’s most prestigious streets. How would you describe it? The design is a tribute to Georgian architecture, featuring spacious rooms, high ceilings, and ornate plasterwork, while the modern and well-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, and walk-in dressing room offer all the conveniences of modern living. It is the epitome of grandeur and elegance. What is its history? The flat is located in a former private member’s club – Studio Peregalli took on the project in 2020 for an Italian client. Best room? The striking 27ft reception room with its high ceiling and ornate plasterwork. Perks of the location? The surrounding area boasts an abundance of parks and green spaces, including nearby Hyde Park, which is perfect for picnics, walks, and outdoor activities. The property is also located within walking distance of Marylebone High Street, with its plethora of high-end boutiques and restaurants. Neighbours include The Wallace Collection, a museum containing 18th-century delights such as Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s Rococo masterpiece The Swing. The current owner says... ‘This property would suit buyers who appreciate the beauty of historical architecture, as well as those who value modern luxury and comfort. The spacious rooms, including the impressive reception and dining areas, make it ideal for entertaining.’ +44 (0)20 7580 2030, rokstone.com May / June 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 197
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PR O M OT I O N
WHY EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT NINE ELMS Nine Elms is a new community which is set to be one of London’s most exciting districts. Lucy Cleland checks into Embassy Gardens for a 24 hour mini break
I
f you ever get the chance to shrug off your own life for 24 hours, and assume that of another, take it. A change is as good as a rest and all that. Especially when that change brings you to one of London’s most exciting new districts, Nine Elms. Long did we Londoners wonder what would happen to our South Bank. Unlike the gentrified north, host to the capital’s most moneyed communities (Chelsea, anyone?) and iconic buildings (the Houses of Parliament, the Savoy etc), the South Bank was always the rather more impoverished cousin. The reinvention of the area, now known as Nine Elms, and a new transport system that finally linked north and south with ease, completely changed all that. The poor cousin has rightly shaken off his shabby threads and is emerging as quite the peacock. When the whole development is complete (it’s about three quarters of the way there), it will, so I’m told by Savills, provide 20,000 new homes and 25,000 new jobs. Snaking throughout it will be a four-hectare green space, the Linear Park, modelled on New York’s High Line. So what’s it like to live here in a community that is really being curated from the ground up? This is what I am here to find out, swapping W3 for SW11 for a day. My home from home is Embassy Gardens, the
NINE ELMS HIGHLIGHTS OXEYE Chef-owner Sven Hanson Britt’s debut restaurant. Quite extraordinary. REMEDI Wellness sanctuary with cutting-edge therapies, such as cryotherapy. TEN HEALTH AND FITNESS Pilates, personal training, physiotherapy, massage and clinical treatments. UNIT Fitness brand whose concept is a scientific 12-week plan – be the fittest you can be DISTRICT Post workout, come for Aussie style brunches and Friday evening barbecues. ASTOUNDING INTERIORS For exemplary turnkey integrated lifestyle design, this is the place to head to. FURMILY Your pets will want for nothing – spoiling them is the ethos of this super-cool pet shop. From the world’s first Sky Pool (above) to high spec apartments, Embassy Gardens is the new place to live in SW11
DARBY’S One for the US embassy workers, maybe, this is a cool NYC-inspired neighbourhood restaurant.
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flagship residential scheme from EcoWorld Ballymore designed by Sir Terry Farrell, which sits slap bang opposite the intriguing-looking new American Embassy (expect super high levels of safety). Embassy Gardens offers over 1,500 new homes (over several buildings), with 999 year leases, ten percent of which are still left to sell – hence why I’m here. The penthouses, alas, have long gone, but you can still snap up studios, and one to three bedroom apartments. Asking my host what kind of people are doing just that, the answer is a broad mix. Parents buying investments for their children; those from overseas wanting a convenient and safe foothold in the UK and those who want to keep a pied à terre in the capital, when perhaps moving out to the country. From my own observations, it feels like a cool community of international young people mooching around with their phones glued to their sides. They’re hanging in the gorgeous, airy communal spaces; they’re at laptops in the cafe by the sky pool (more of which later); they’re in the sauna. I’m staying in a two-bed, twobath apartment on the 22nd floor. You can only imagine the views. It’s super cosy but, I suspect, given the lifestyle offering on tap here, the last place you’ll be spending most of your time is in your apartment. The amenities at Embassy Gardens, I’m assured, outclass those of other developments in the area – and come as part of your service charge. You have two fully equipped gyms; a 22-seater cinema which you can book out at no charge, but not when it’s residents’ movie night on a Sunday (cute idea); a lounge; workspace areas; a boardroom for meetings; and a concierge on hand 24/7. Its most famous touch though, and one that has made it world-famous, is that it boasts the world’s first Sky Pool. What exactly does this mean? It means that 35m above ground level – and suspended between two buildings you’ll find the largest freestanding acrylic pool structure in the world, which has the appearance of floating in mid air. I promise you, it’s not. I can only imagine the insane atmosphere once the British summer gets going (there are plenty of sun beds) – I did swim (you definitely want goggles for the full effect) but it was a rather chillier March).
It’s all about the lifestyle at Embassy Gardens, from cinema screens, to gorgeous interiors and a vibrant local community
To entice buyers, you not only want sky pools, cinemas and the thrill of being in Zone 1; you want atmosphere; you want people; you want buzzing cafés; world-class restaurants; dentists; food stores (the Waitrose is enormous); pilates; and things to do. And this you have in spades. I’m sitting writing this up in the humming District Cafe just by EG, having wolfed down Green Eggs (marinated kale, pesto, eggs, ago, chia seeds on sourdough) and a turmeric latte. It is full as you like. Women in leggings, like me, are sauntering in from their reformer class at Ten Pilates just across the way. Young children are tucking into bacon and eggs. It feels alive. Yesterday, after three minutes in the cryo chamber and meditation pod at the new Remedi Wellness clinic (super swishy and high tech, there are loads of brilliant therapies on offer), the most wonderful foodie treat awaited us. Even if you don’t end up buying an apartment at EG, just come over and give yourself a treat at Oxeye, the debut restaurant from Masterchef the Professionals-winning chef Sven-Hanson Britt. It is quite a revelation (see my review on page 195). Then, of course, there’s Battersea Power Station itself. I’m just off there now – for a spot of window shopping; to catch a glimpse of a Polestar (it’s where the EV marque’s UK flagship is); and perhaps a Sunday afternoon movie. My mini break is complete. It’s been a blast. Studios at Embassy Gardens start from £650,000, up to £1,195,000 for a threebedroom apartment. +44 (0)20 3627 6396. embassygardens.com
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8 Eaton Lane offers history, style and service in abundance
Let’s Move To...
A LANDMARK LONDON DEVELOPMENT
O
verlooking Horse Guards, on the site of Whitehall Palace in London, the War Office witnessed world-shaping events in the first half of the 20th century. It was the main control centre for the First World War and served as offices for Winston Churchill and Lord Haldane, the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond series. Now, following a six-year restoration costing more than £70 million, the Edwardian baroque building has been renamed The OWO – the Old War Office –and opens this summer as a palatial apartment building with residents enjoying access to the five-star amenities of London’s first Raffles hotel plus nine restaurants, spa and pool (theowo.london). The OWO, according to Rupert des Forges of Knight Frank, is part of a new breed of residence taking over London’s super prime property market. Until recently the wealthiest buyers chose between two types of property: lateral apartments in serviced new build blocks, and vertical townhouses without amenities but with plenty of style. These new developments blend history and convenience to provide another option. Residences in The OWO and in 8 Eaton Lane in Belgravia, a new development of 42 luxury apartments in a Grade II-listed Victorian building, are grander and more architecturally important than the average prime central London townhouse, with higher ceilings and more ornate features, and they also offer all the facilities of a modern development including concierge, pools, spas, private cinemas and underground parking (8eatonlane.com). ‘Buyers have the best of both worlds – the aesthetic appeal of these historic buildings and all the services required for modern day living,’ Rupert says.
They also appreciate these buildings for their juicy pasts – John Profumo worked in The OWO as Secretary of State for War before his affair with Christine Keeler was exposed – but also their commanding locations in London’s most desirable areas. The OWO is short walk from St James’s Park and the restaurants of Mayfair; 8 Eaton Lane is a stone’s throw from Buckingham Palace and Green Park. Meanwhile the Sky Villas at the top of newly developed Battersea Power Station, which benefit from a 24-hour concierge service, a residents’ lounge, gym, pool, spa and rooftop gardens, look out over the Thames and Battersea Park and are an easy stroll to the boutiques of Chelsea and Belgravia (batterseapowerstation. co.uk). Finally, although Rhodium’s Lancer Square development is new, its handsome design mirrors the pomp and grandeur of nearby Kensington Palace, and its location is sure to pull in eager purchasers looking for a slice of London’s royal history (lancersquare.co.uk). What’s more, in contrast to the stark minimalist interiors often found in new build apartment blocks, the interiors inside these buildings veer towards classicism. At 9 Millbank, a luxury apartment development by St Edward in the former headquarters of the Imperial Chemical Company, the interiors have been designed by Goddard Littlefair to feel more like country houses than modern city apartments, with parquet flooring and black and white tones to complement historic features such as marble-lined walls, carved door frames, decorative plasterwork and panelling – the spa, cinema room and meeting room have a similar vibe (berkeleygroup.co.uk). Meanwhile, the interiors at 8 Eaton Lane by Millier, which reimagined Islay House in Scotland, are
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PHOTOS: © PATRICK WILLIAMSON
Anna Tyzack takes a look at the historic properties being developed for luxury buyers in the capital
PROPERTY classically British with flourishes of French renaissance, inspired by the grandeur and proportions of the building. Similarly, the Knightsbridge Estate’s elegant new rental apartments come furnished by design studio Taylor Howes, renowned for its luxurious aesthetic (theknightsbridgeestate.co.uk). The cost of these ultra-luxurious residences tends to be higher than their newbuild equivalents but this is not deterring buyers. In Mayfair the remodelling of No 1 Grosvenor Square (1gsq.com), which housed the US Embassy between 1938 and 1960, into 44 serviced residences offering elevated versions of private houses with a gated entrance and porte-cochère drop off for cars, has proved so popular that only a few apartments remain despite prices starting at £9.25 million. Meanwhile, 20 percent of the properties at 8 Eaton Lane were under offer within a few weeks of its launch at the beginning of this year, with the majority of the buyers from Britain. Ninetynine percent of properties have sold at Millbank Residences, where prices start at £18 million for an apartment with access to a spa, cinema room and meeting room and a 24-hour concierge (savills.com). The ultra-wealthy, according to Rupert,
are prepared to pay more to own what they regard as a piece of history. ‘The market remains strong and resilient against the current headwinds of inflation, interest rate rises and ongoing global uncertainty,’ he says. ‘Buyers are looking to spend on tangible assets such as residential real estate.’ Prices are up 23 percent since the onset of the pandemic, he says, and while Knight Frank’s analysts expect the gains that took place during the second half of the pandemic to be reversed, they’re predicting prices to rise by 7.5 percent in the next five years. Such positive response for The OWO and its contemporaries is inspiring more developments of this type in other parts of wellheeled London. In Kensington, for example, the developer Residence One is transforming Allen House, a grand Edwardian mansion block, into 45 lateral apartments with gym, meeting rooms and landscaped communal gardens (allenhouse.co.uk). Not only will it offer period accommodation with communal gardens, a rarity in the area, but its restoration will breathe new life into the surroundings, Rupert explains. ‘Aesthetic and architectural style is high on many purchasers’ wish lists,’ he says. ‘These restored landmark buildings speak for themselves.’
A bedroom at The OWO, designed by Albion Nord
Lancer Square
TRY BEFORE YOUR BUY DATE NIGHT Be one of the first to dine at Mauro Colagreco’s elegant restaurant opening at Raffles London opens this summer. all.accor.com
SWIM WITH A VIEW The 16th-floor heated infinity pool and rooftop garden at Battersea Power Station are open to guests staying at the new Art’otel. ( artotellondonbattersea.com) A CITY BREAK The Chancery Rosewood, opening in 2025, is taking over the old US Embassy building on Grosvenor Square with 139 suites and a spa in the heart of Mayfair. rosewoodhotels.com
HIT THE SHOPS The next phase of the £3bn development of Queensway and the former The Whiteley shopping centre in Bayswater will be The William, a stateof-the-art shopping centre and mixed use development by Foster + Partner. thewhiteleylondon.com
PHOTOS: © PATRICK WILLIAMSON
FOR SALE
8 EATON LANE, BELGRAVIA, FROM £4.13m Part of the original Grosvenor Estate, 8 Eaton Lane was built as London’s first ever serviced apartment building (it dates back to 1863) and following extensive restoration now offers 42 residences with access to pool, gym, spa, cinema and business suite. knightfrank.com
THE OWO, WHITEHALL, FROM £7.1m Opening this summer, the Old War Office in Whitehall is now home to 85 residences and a Raffles hotel. Each apartment is entirely unique in layout with ceilings up to 4.4m and interior design by 1508 London. Residents can enjoy hotel services plus nine restaurants, pool, cinema and Guerlain’s first London spa. savills.com
THE ASTOR, 9 MILLBANK, WESTMINSTER, £35m A palatial penthouse with private 1,184 sq/ft roof terrace overlooking Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. Named after Viscountess Nancy Astor, the first female MP, it has three bedrooms, a ballroom-sized reception room, cinema room, roof terrace and a two-bedroom annex. knightfrank.com n
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PROPERTY | Five of the Best
WATERFRONT HOMES Splash around, says Tessa Dunthorne
DARTMOUTH, £6.95m
Head down the cascading steps of Paradise Point house to your own private jetty on the emerald Dart Estuary. The Grade-II listed, five-bedroom, six-bathroom Victorian property has been gently restored across the past decade – all the while respecting its heritage on the site of an ancient fort. savills.com
SUNBURY-ON-THAMES, £3.5m Thought to be the former home of Sir Henry Knight, Lord Mayor of London, this six-bedroomed Victorian riverside home sits plum beside the Thames. With its 70ft mooring, you’ll be able to get onto the water daily and explore along to Hampton Court Palace and East Molesley. knightfrank.co.uk
CHISWICK, £4.25m
A rare find – this mature black and white gabled riverside five-bedroom house is up for sale for the first time in nearly 40 years. Enjoy the best of both: direct access to the Thames (and potential to moor a little boat), all the while being able to get into town in moments. savills.com
BETCHWORTH, £1.6m
An old mill house, this Georgian home in Surrey comes complete with five bedrooms, cosy fireplaces, plus its own waterfall, stream and mill pond. Across the water, you’ll be able to spy a beautiful orchard – that’ll be yours, too. fineandcountry.co.uk
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, £29.5m
Riverside Manor is a behemoth of an estate, with up to 11 bedrooms and three staff cottages on site. Featuring its own boat house, you’ll make the most of its fabulous position on the River Thames – but it also boasts an indoor swimming pool and spa complex, in case bathing waters are more your speed. knightfrank.co.uk
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Kent, Linton
Offers in Excess of £32,000,000
A jewel in the heart of the Garden of England Maidstone: 4 miles, Ashford International Station: 21.8 miles (London Victoria 45 minutes), Gatwick and M23 (J10): 40.8 miles, Central London: 44 miles Grade I listed country house with 12 bedrooms | 6 Principal reception rooms | Garden rooms | Billiard room | Catering kitchen Wine cellar and domestic offices on the garden floor | Long private drive | Magnificent listed gardens and parkland with lake and cricket pitch Coach House with flat above and 16 further residential properties providing a considerable income About 440 acres (178 ha) in total For sale as a whole or in up to three lots Mark McAndrew National Estates & Farm Agency | 020 7318 5171 mark.mcandrew@struttandparker.com
/struttandparker
@struttandparker
Liza Howden National Estates & Farm Agency | 020 7591 2214 liza.howden@struttandparker.com
Edward Church Canterbury Office | 01227 473 700 edward.church@struttandparker.com
struttandparker.com
Over 45 offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
ZC938 Country & 1 Townhouse - May/June Issue.indd 1 Strutt &SP Parker.indd
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Tuesday 16th May 2023 1.30-6.30pm Admission Free The Chelsea Old Town Hall, King’s Road, London SW3 5EE Meet leading independent estate agents, who can provide objective, balanced advice and show you some of the finest property to buy, rent or invest, in and outside the capital, from pied-à-terre’s to country estates.
For more information, contact Cassia at The London Office on 020 7839 0888 or visit www.londonandcountryproperty.co.uk
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ADMIRAL SQUARE, SW10
MUSGRAVE PARKGATE CRESCENT, SW6 ROAD, SW11 £2,000,000
£2,000,000
A large and immaculately presented four bedroom terraced townhouse providing a fantastic amount of living and entertainment space and wellproportioned bedrooms in Admiral Square, part of the exclusive Chelsea Harbour development. The house is immaculately presented to the very highest of standards. On the ground floor there is a large eat-in kitchen leading to the private garden and a downstairs cloakroom, utility room and plenty of storage.
A large four bedroom family house set over four floors on Musgrave Crescent, SW6 with stunning views over Eel Brook common. With huge scope to update and extend to an incoming occupiers own requirements. On the ground floor there is an eat-in kitchen leading to a private garden, which also has side access, and a more formal dining room. On the first floor there is a stunning reception room with views over Eel rook common, a conservatory and study area on the landing.
An exceptional three double bedroom house of circa 1,782 sq ft providing accommodation over four floors on the corner of Parkgate and Anhalt road, one of North Battersea’s premier addresses close to Battersea Park and Albert Bridge. The accommodation is arranged over four floors. On the ground floor there is an entrance hall, two reception rooms and cloakroom. On the first floor there is the master bedroom which is served by a large bathroom and a utility Room.
Bedrooms: 5 / Bathrooms: 4 / Reception Rooms: 2 / Size: 2750 sq ft / Outside Space: Garden / Parking: Off Street Parking / EPC: C
Bedrooms: 4 / Bathrooms: 2 (1 en-suite) Reception Rooms: 2 / Size: 2116 sq ft Outside Space: Garden / Parking: Resident Parking Permit / EPC: D
Bedrooms: 3 / Reception Rooms: 2 / Bathrooms: 2 Outside Space: Garden Size: 1771 sq ft / Parking: Resident’s Parking Permit / EPC: D
£3,100,000
Contact us on 020 3876 0280 to discuss selling or letting your home. facebook /radstockproperty
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S U R R E Y ’ S E XC LU S I V E C O U N T RY E S TAT E Set within 25 acres of landscaped grounds, Broadoaks Park offers brand new and beautifully restored homes - finished to Octagon’s renowned high level of specification. All homes are designed to enhance the private parkland setting, with Phase 5 offering a collection of new build 2-bedroom apartments and 3, 4 and 5 bedroom houses. SALES SUITE OPEN – VIEWING BY APPOINTMENT Guide Prices from £750,000
B R OA D OA K S PA R K . C O . U K
020 8481 7500 | OCTAGON.CO.UK
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LAST WORD In modern Bond films, 007 has had a marked preference for Omega Seamaster styles
Tales of our Time
Michael Hayman on the tangibility of the timepiece and why watches matter
W
e have all the time in the world. Well, maybe a little less today, but enough to read around 450 words – so pay attention. I’m talking watches – a subject that’s on point thanks to Simon de Burton’s timely round up featured on page 51, and also a personal passion of mine.
One of the world’s best-known watch wearers is James Bond, the figurehead of a franchise that marked its 60th anniversary last year. Elegant, formidable, ready for action, a good watch has to be much like the super spy himself. Indeed, a 007 film without a watch is like an action scene without an Aston Martin, or a booming ballad without a nod to John Barry. Watches are central to the formula. Our hero’s patrician author, Ian Fleming, had
no doubts. ‘A gentleman’s choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Savile Row suit,’ he wrote. In Casino Royale, Fleming declared his spy’s brand of choice: ‘He could not just wear a watch. It had to be a Rolex.’ And for the Bond of the books it was one model only, The Explorer. Flip to the films and it’s another matter. Sean Connery allegedly wore his own Rolex Submariner in Dr No, but in more recent years it has been Omega in general and the Seamaster, in particular, that has been the timepiece for the franchise. But whichever brand you prefer to see on the wrist of Bond, all the watches have remained magnificently mechanical – there’s just something about the enduring beauty and sophistication of the handmade timepiece that moves us at a more elemental and sentimental level. They leave us both shaken and stirred. The Bond creators tried a diversion into digital through a brief flirtation with Seiko but it wasn’t to
last, mirroring our own tastes today. Despite the rise of all things Apple, the tech giant is yet to crack the connection we keep with the classic watch. Timepieces sit at the heart of a whole financial category: passion investments. Last year, Knight Frank’s Luxury Investment Index tipped watches alongside art and classic cars as its top three performing investments delivering rates of return of 18 percent over 12 months and 147 percent over ten years. But don’t take my word for it. Like many a good Bond villain, I’ve gone rogue when it comes to watches. Indeed, my family owns a watch business, so I am, as they say, completely compromised. My model of choice? The Patrimony. Sounds like a Bond movie but it is a gorgeous model from Vacheron Constantin (pictured below left). As the super spy might say, ‘Nobody does it better,’ and when I wear it, all I can think is, ‘Baby you’re the best’. n
TA L K I N G P O I N T S WATCH Mat Whitecross’s new documentary, The Sound of 007, tells the Bond music story from the start to Billie Eilish’s Academy Award-winning song for No Time To Die (Amazon Original). DRINK The Macallan James Bond 60th Anniversary Release Decade IV (themacallan.com). SHOP Parkers – for a passion investment look for a classic pre-loved watch (parkersjewellers.co.uk). 208 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | May / June 2023
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