A LIFE IN BALANCE
DESIGN ENVY Up your interiors game
NEWS FLASH
The inexorable rise of Emma Barnett
Cover-V7-PB.indd 1
SEPT ⁄ OCT 2024 £5.99
IN THE HOOD
Claudia Winkleman’s style secrets COMFORT EATING WITH OTTOLENGHI
Autumn STYLE
30/08/2024 13:07
AUDEMARS PIGUET® AP_CouTowHoUK_Legal_Campaign_SB24_RO_26735SG_SandGold_450x298.indd 2 Audemars Piguet.indd 1
28.08.24 14:56 28/08/2024 15:28
AP_Co
24 14:56
SEEK BE YO ND
AP_CouTowHoUK_Legal_Campaign_SB24_RO_26735SG_SandGold_450x298.indd 3 Audemars Piguet.indd 2
28.08.24 14:56 28/08/2024 15:29
ANY WHERE, ANY TIME.
FOPE PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS LOHR FOPE.COM
AD DPS FOPE Fope.indd 1 Country & Town House - UK.indd 2
21/08/2024 15:42
Fope.indd 2
21/08/24 08:31 21/08/2024 15:42
27/08/2024 10:53 Longines_HQ • Visual: BP2_CO40 • Annonce: 47139 06Sep24 BP2_CO40 (GB) • Issue: 06/09/2024
Longines.indd 1
CONQUEST
LONG INES BOUTIQUE 411 Oxford Street • London
BARBARA PALVIN
27/08/2024 10:53 Longines_HQ • Visual: BP2_CO40 • Annonce: 47139 06Sep24 BP2_CO40 (GB) • Issue: 06/09/2024
Longines.indd 2
Boodles.indd 1 Boodles_BeBoodles_CountryTownhouse_298x450_DPS_Sep_Oct.indd Pg1
20/08/2024 10:42
Boodles.indd 2
20/08/2024 28/07/2024 10:42 20:30
Contents
SEPT OCT 2024
COLUMNS
THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B finds her perfect skincare 24 THE RURBANIST Chef Skye McAlpine 26 THE WILDIST Getting into Blue Mind theory 200 LAST WORD Building mustn’t come at the cost of nature, says Michael Hayman 22
STYLE 29 30 32 38 42 44 46
NATURAL BEAUTY Fashion fables THE STYLIST Rethinking your arm candy THE EDIT Fashion, beauty and jewellery news THE MAGPIE Shiny things MOSS SIDE Modern country chic MY STYLE Jade Holland Cooper WELL GROOMED Style for men
HEALTH & WELLBEING 53 54 56 58 60 62
ON THE ROW The benefits of rowing THE SCOOP What are the sleep-obsessed investing in now? SPA TREK Brain-boosting at Switzerland’s Clinique La Prairie BODY & SOUL Olympic rower Alex Gregory on perfecting your technique BODY LANGUAGE The power of the needle is still going strong, says Olivia Falcon BEAUTY DILEMMA Nathalie Eleni has some great advice for combating thread veins
73
74 82 85 86 87 89 92 94 96 Jacket Troy London Gilet Nobody's Child Cardigan Oliver Brown Shorts Relic Vintage Cap Christys' Shoes and socks Longchamp
98
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Puccini’s tale of love and loss comes to the Coliseum CULTURAL CALENDAR Your must-have guide to what to see, read and do ARTIST’S STUDIO Olivia Cole meets British legend Harland Miller PERFORMANCE ANXIETY Give your confidence a boost by taking up a new hobby LITTLE GREEN BOOK Meet Bianca Pitt, putting women front and centre in the climate fight THE EXHIBITIONIST Van Gogh’s coming to town and you can’t miss it, says Ed Vaizey GOOD NEWS Yes, we need it THE CONSERVATIONIST Will this change of goverment made any difference to how we tackle our most pressing climate issues, asks James Wallace THE SOLUTIONISTS Three nature-based innovations reviving the Great British countryside THE GREEN LANE The legendary G-Wagen – now battery powered SCARFES BAR Fashion designer Giles Deacon
FEATURES 100
120
108
VIVA FOREVER Make your wardrobe work hard by investing in classics THE MORNING SHOWGIRL Emma Barnett tells Lucy Cleland about her latest side hustle
PHOTO: © LOUISE SAMUELSEN
CULTURE
8 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Contents-V4-TD.indd 8
30/08/2024 13:03
Graff.indd 1
25/07/2024 14:48
Contents
SEPT OCT 2024
FEATURES CONT... 111
116 120 128 130 132 136
EARTHLY DELIGHTS Paganism is alive and kicking in the UK, finds Luke Abrahams REGENERATING IBIZA Sarah Langford looks at how new landowners are confronting old ideas when it comes to what to do with the soil GOLDEN HOUR Upping the country style stakes ON LOCATION Go BTS of our cover shoot UNDER THE HOOD Charlie Colville finds out the style secrets behind Claudia Winkleman’s killer outfits IS THE GREAT BRITISH BOOZER OVER? Tessa Dunthorne investigates the future of the pub BACK TO SCHOOL Learn about whisky with a little illustrative help from Ralph Steadman, plus the latest distillery news
ON DESIGN 141
Countryside interiors have never looked better – and in our dedicated special section Carole Annett has just how to nail it in your own home
TRAVEL 163 173 176 178 180 182
LA VITA E BELLA Who doesn’t love Italy? From road trips to the secrets of Venice, we dive deeper into the country THE ESCAPIST Travel news ROUND THE RAGGED ROCKS Kate Eshelby visits some of the most pristine landscapes on earth in Oman THE TRIP What Ultra-High-NetWorths really really want POSTCARDS FROM... Marbella LOCH DOWN From cabin to castle, Scotland offers the best of a nature-culture staycation
FOOD & DRINK 187 190 192
(Right) Connie wears: Jumper, jacket, skirt, boots Dior
Top, jacket, trousers, ring Hermès
100
Fashion Director: Nicole Smallwood Photographer: Louise Samuelsen Hair and make-up: Ruth Warrior @ Ray Brown Represents using By Terry and Hair by Sam McKnight Models: Irene Shaprovska @ Titanium and Connie Savill @ The Hive
PROPERTY 195 196 199
HOUSE OF THE MONTH WOULD YOU BUY A HOUSE ON INSTAGRAM? Anna Tyzack investigates the rise of property influencers FIVE OF THE BEST Country estates
REGULARS 14 16 48
EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS PARTY PEOPLE
PHOTO: © DAVID REISS
ON THE COVER (Left) Irene wears: Jumper, jacket, skirt, boots Dior
LIQUID SUNSHINE The cocktail cometh RECIPE River Cottage’s pork pie CULINARY COMFORT Ottolenghi cooks up some soul food
10 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Contents-V4-TD.indd 10
30/08/2024 13:04
CE_The_Amara_ADV_127-225x298.indd 1 Van Cleef Fragrance.indd 1
29/08/2024 15:43 10:18 29/08/2024
@byskydiamond skydiamond.com
“What do we take and what do we give when we make things? We must never forget we are intricately entangled with the planet.” — LILY COLE
C&TH-Advert-Skydiamond-DPS-NEW24-v5.indd All Pages SkyDiamond.indd 1
12/08/2024 15:21
The World’s Most Sustainable Man-Made Diamond Created Entirely from the Sky.
SkyDiamond.indd 2
01/08/2024 16:34 12/08/2024 15:21
witches, herbal potions, chanting and hanging around with special trees are all finding their way to into the cultural repertoire of Britain’s most luxury hotels. Luke Abrahams traverses the four corners of our shores, to find himself wassailing at The Newt in Somerset and foraging for herbs with the Fife Arms in Braemar. What he learns is that modern pagans are keeping the oral and ancient cultural traditions of these islands alive, in accordance to nature and Mother Earth – and it begs the question, isn’t this something we should all be getting on board with? A religion with nature as its god? Sounds right for our times, and so I’m hanging up my atheist shoes right now (p111). If autumn’s got you itching for something new to do, we’ve got plenty of ideas. From taking up something physically joyful like belly-dancing (p54) or learning what it takes to be a stand-up comedian (p85), there 108 are also more sedentary options, especially if you’re keen on a wee dram. Cask 88 has created a ‘Whisky Correspondence Course’ in collaboration with iconic illustrator – and whisky lover – Ralph Steadman. The series takes drinkers on a journey through Scotland’s distilleries via illustrations (and tasting sets) from Ralph Steadman’s 1994 memoir Still life with Bottle: Whisky According to Ralph Steadman. Find out more on p136. If you prefer drinking your single malt straight-up, you might want to draw up a bar stool at James May’s pub in Wiltshire. The former Top Gear presenter tells Tessa Dunthorne that he 136 had no choice but to become a reluctant publican if he wanted to have a pub within walking distance of his house (p132). Speaking of houses, I’m about to put mine on the market (again). hose voice do you I tried about two years ago and didn’t get wake up to in a sniff, so I yanked it off. I find the whole house-buying and selling market in the UK the morning? It’s more than utterly agonising – the hopes, the dreams, reasonable to assume that the heartbreaks... For those selling though, you’re one of the 5.5m Instagram is fast becoming the marketing 141 who tune into Radio 4’s Today channel of choice and spawning a new breed programme, and therefore it’s (sometimes) Emma Barnett’s. of ‘property influencers’, such as Ari Reid, whose Landing what’s probably broadcasting’s most venerable job before ultra-groomed looks are just as beautiful as the houses you’re 40 is pretty impressive, but when you add in all the other she’s showing you round. But is this all emperor’s new things that Emma’s up to, including the launch of a business clothes, asks Anna Tyzack (p196). Whatever it is, please can we make with her husband, you can only sit back and ask how does she the whole process less fraught. do it? Which is exactly what I do on page 108. Paganism is alive and kicking in the UK. Druid festivals, Happy autumn!
Editor’s LETTER
EDITOR’S PICKS
DECORATE I want this Svenskt Tenn wallpaper – everywhere...
INDULGE Irene Forte’s products are not only beautiful and highly sustainable, but they really work. I’m excited to try her new rose body oil.
WEAR Late to the party I may be, but I’ve just discovered Cece Jewellery’s talismanic designs and have fallen hard.
READ If you’re a fan of The Newsagents podcast, you’ll be interested in reading host Jon Sopel’s latest tome.
PHOTO: JULIA HAWKINS
W
14 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Eds-Letter-V6-TD.indd 14
30/08/2024 12:44
Richard Mille.indd 1
19/08/2024 17:08
CONTRIBUTORS
Regenerating Ibiza, p116
Earthly Delights, p111
Catching up with Harland Miller, p82
Testing The Water, p169
SARAH LANGFORD
LUKE ABRAHAMS
OLIVIA COLE
MARGARET HUSSEY
Favourite countryside spot? Suffolk. It is one of those counties which feels like it has old soil. As well as being the birthplace of the British organic movement (Lady Eve Balfour, who co-founded the Soil Association, conducted her famous organic versus chemical experiment at her farm in Haughley), it has a rich farming heritage which has inspired nature writers like Ronald Blythe and Adrian Bell. It is far enough from London to have stayed unspoiled. What do you most look forward to about autumn? The light, the colours, the smell – everything really. September always seems to have a special golden light which feels like a balm after the heat of summer. There is a particular smell which comes with autumn, a sweet rich smell, like the earth is breathing out and getting ready to rest for winter.
Favourite countryside spot? The Cairngorms in Scotland. It’s so beautifully vast and storied. One minute you can be on a winding main road, and then after an hour of hiking, in the middle of a desolate landscape with absolutely no phone signal. The scenery is exquisite; the air fresh; and it’s the best place on earth to just get a moment of ‘me time’ in perfect solitude. Favourite UK pub? The George & Monkey in Islington. It’s a community pub with not a tourist in sight. The grub is good, and there are lots of kegs, bottles and cans to guzzle. What do you most look forward to about autumn? It’s an opportunity to have a bit of a reset and put things in motion. It’s a time to clear out those cerebral cobwebs and rethink perspectives – the crisp air and colours of the season help a lot with this and there’s always this idea of renewed promise.
Favourite countryside spot? I love the Weald of Kent where I grew up. It’s magical rediscovering it through the eyes and endless explorer’s energy of my six-year-old JJ. Favourite UK pub? The Mermaid Inn has always been an atmospheric favourite and it’s the perfect spot to relax after a rummage for vintage treasures and books in Rye. The vertiginous climb up Mermaid Street has beautiful views over the town and towards the coast at any time of year. Just across the cobbles, one of my favourite writers Henry James lived and worked at Lamb House. What do you most look forward to about autumn? Planting tulips for spring and all of the cultural excitement of autumn after the summer break, from Frieze art fair in Regent’s Park, to brilliant awards season contenders being in the cinemas.
Favourite countryside spot? Northumberland – I love the wide, unspoilt beaches, loads of walking trails and waterfalls. It’s great for stargazing too with some of the darkest skies in the country. Favourite UK pub? The Dove, Hammersmith, West London. It’s got nooks and crannies and a brilliant location by the Thames. A great place to while away long evenings. What do you most look forward to about autumn? That sense of nesting and hibernation. It’s one of my favourite seasons – still enough daylight for brisk walks as well as cosy evenings with blankets on the sofa. What’s on your watch list this season? Wolf Hall: The Mirror and the Light. I’m looking forward to scenes between Damian Lewis returning as Henry VIII and Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell.
WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s picks and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter countryandtownhousemagazine
countryandtownhouse
country-and-town-house
countryandtownhouse
16 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Contribs-V4-TD.indd 16
30/08/2024 12:35
COUNTRY AND TOWNHOUSE UK_GA W 04_FW24-25.indd 1 Giorgio Armani.indd 1
26/08/24 11:19 27/08/2024 10:25
T I M E
F O R
D E S I G N
MAX BILL REGULATOR BAUHAUS Maximum minimalist: the JUNGHANS max bill proves that less really can be more. Purist through and through, it directs the eye to the essential: time. Self-winding movement, sapphire crystal, glass case back with Bauhaus motif, water-resistant up to 5 bar. 27/4493.02 www.junghans.de
w w w.junghans.co.uk · info@thebluecompanylondon.co.uk
JH_AZ_27_4493_02_CountryTownHouse_UK_225x298_0724.indd 1 The Blue Co.indd 1
26.07.2024 10:26:49 21/08/2024 15:48
LUCY CLELAND EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF DEPUTY EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM ASSISTANT EDITOR & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER, ANDREW BRASSLEAY FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY TRAVEL EDITOR-AT-LARGE FRANCISCA KELLETT EDITOR-AT-WILD FEE DRUMMOND SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY ONLINE ASSISTANT MARTHA DAVIES SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER DANIELLA LAXTON CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA DESIGN & PRODUCTION MIA BIAGIONI ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR PANDORA LEWIS ACCOUNT DIRECTOR SERENA KNIGHT DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN DIGITAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR JOEY GOLDSMITH SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN ACCOUNT MANAGER HONOR PHEYSEY B CORP & PROJECTS MANAGER XA RODGER OFFICE MANAGER & SALES SUPPORT MONICA DELA CRUZ TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER GARETH MORRIS FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN DELGADO FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AND WRITERS TIFFANIE DARKE, JAMES WALLACE, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, LAUREN HO, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, STEPHEN BAYLEY THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Hampstead, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £39.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and Android all for only £9.99/month, visit: exacteditions.com/ read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse. co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2024 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors
1
Country & Town House is a member of CPRE (Campaign to Protect Rural England)
Please recycle
What to do with Country & Town House when you’ve finished reading it
Ideally, we’d love you to pass it on to a friend or a community place which might enjoy it (doctor or dentist surgery, community centre etc), but you can also rest assured that your issue can be recycled.
countryandtownhousemagazine
Flannel-V3-TD.indd 19
PEFC/16-33-97 This product is from sustainably managed forests, recycled and controlled sources. www.pefc.org
2
The magazine (including cover) can be disposed of in your paper waste recycling bin.
countryandtownhouse
country-and-town-house
3
The outer plastic wrapping is made entirely from 100 percent compostable material sourced from potato starch. It can be disposed of in a compost heap, your garden waste bin or your food waste bin (why not use it as a liner?). Please do not put it in your recycling.
countryandtownhouse
countryandtownhouse.com
30/08/2024 12:18
FH24 BARENIA_MODELSHOT 2_450x298_TOWN HOUSE_ROYAUME-UNI_UK.indd 1 Hermes.indd 1
30/08/2024 30/08/2024 17:57 17:31
FH24 B
4 17:57
FH24 BARENIA_MODELSHOT 2_450x298_TOWN HOUSE_ROYAUME-UNI_UK.indd 2 Hermes.indd 2
30/08/2024 17:31 17:58 30/08/2024
COLUMN
The GOOD LIFE
Alice B-B celebrates family businesses, and brands that are giving back
OU CAN TELL... a family business a mile off – because… THE DETAIL! That crazy, expensive, whacky lampshade is the very thing that makes a room not just sing, but ululate. And it’s the VERY thing that corporate-misery-guts, bottomline-sniffing suits would gleefully chop from the design plan, while muttering, ‘Find a cheaper one’. Of course, working with family can be hell (watch The Bear on Disney+). But when it works, it’s a thing of beauty; products made with care, love and – more importantly – originality instead of mimicry. No business embodies this more than French skincare and beauty brand Sisley, founded in 1976 by husband-and-wife team Hubert and Isabelle d’Ornano. Products emerge from the family-owned laboratory that are delicious, effective and singular – as the ingredients and formulas aren’t just a carbon copy of what everyone else in the skin game is up to. In fact, there’s a night cream, called Supremÿa and, while it costs a small fortune, the morning after it’s like I’ve had an extra hour’s sleep. And that’s priceless! When I try to squirrel deeper into the how, why and what of this miracle in a bottle – lips speedily seal. The white-coated lab geniuses – quite rightly – chest their cards. To see the joy, creativity and glorious detail of this family business at work, go to Sisley’s new ‘maison’ on South Audley street in Mayfair. The decoration is a riot of fun, colour and quirk, with hand-drawn wallpaper inspired by skin cells, giant golden ginkgo biloba leaf sculptures, a ‘greenhouse’ sitting room for diagnostics or post-treatment cuppa, with delightful needlepoint cushions (hand-stitched by Mme d’Ornano). And head down the stairs to the sumptuous treatment rooms, where the magic happens. The anti-ageing facial felt like angel’s hands were feeding my skin with manna from heaven. And of course… there’s a lampshade. CIRCULAR ECONOMY... My favourites this month; what to do with a ten-year-old but still fabulous George Smith sofa that won’t work in your new house? Send snaps via the website, and the elves in the Northumberland factory offer a buy-back price, giving you credit for either a new sofa or a piece from the pre-loved collection (georgesmith. com). Meanwhile Bookshop.org has a new BookLoop recycling service; enter the books ISBN numbers on the website, print off a label and drop at your local DPD point. Another bunch of elves will sell your old books online and you’ll receive Bookshop.org credit. Finally, big handclap for Earnt, the movement creating a retail revolution. Working with illustrious partners (including The River Café, Soho House, Dempsey & Dempsey), who offer something special that can’t be bought and instead has to be ‘earnt’ via acts of kindness. Next up, become fashion designer Ulla Johnson’s VIC (very important customer) by clearing up a park in Fort Green, NYC. Stick the date in your diary. And circle it. (earnt.co.uk) n
‘PRODUCTS made with CARE, LOVE and – more importantly – ORIGINALITY’
THIS MONTH I’LL BE...
THRILLED with my new uniform – houndstooth workwear by Flora Soames x Carrier Company (florasoames.com). DREAMING of decorating with Hiromi Objets’ lights and ceramics (hiromiobjets.com). HEADING to freshly renovated Cavendish Hotel in the Peak District for bracing walks (cavendishhotelbaslow.co.uk).
ILLUSTRATION BY ROSAMUND DE SYBEL @RDSILLUSTRATIONS
Y
Sisley’s new London maison is a skincare haven
22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Alice-BB-V3-TD.indd 22
30/08/2024 12:17
COMMANDING THE SCREEN FROM THE FIRST FR AME. CHARLIZE THERON WE ARS THE NAVITIMER .
KNIGHTSBRIDGE LONDON
CA11451-Charlize_Navitimer36_140years_225x298_Country & Town House_R132m.indd 1 Breitling.indd 1
08.08.24 09:47 08/08/2024 10:35
INTERVIEW
The RURBANIST
Food writer Skye McAlpine on confidence, cake and coming home to Venice
What’s bringing you joy at the moment? It’s peak fig season right
now. Fresh figs with prosciutto is one of my favourite things in the whole world. It’s about really eking as much out of summer as possible. Advice you’d give to your 15-year-old self? Believing you can do something is half the battle. In my teens I wasted a lot of time thinking I couldn’t do things. I feel more confident now to make mistakes and fail, while recognising that you do make progress and achieve things that way. What keeps you awake at night? My to-do list is always in the back of my mind. I’ve been working on the manuscript for a new book, so I’ve put to one side a lot of life admin and friends I need to catch up with or reply to. Best life hack you can share with us? Never put tomatoes in the fridge – always keep them out in a bowl in the kitchen. They look pretty, but also they don’t taste good when they’ve been in the fridge. It’s annoying because supermarket tomatoes have already been refrigerated, but I’m convinced that if you can give them a couple of days out of the fridge before you eat them, it makes a difference. Where do you go to escape? I come to Venice, which is a home from home for me. I think there’s always a bit of peacefulness about going home, no matter where you’re living in the world or what you’re doing. And it happens to be a very peaceful city, so it’s very quiet. The pace of life here is very slow, and it always feels quite cocooning. It’s a great place to come and write, or just to be quiet and get away from the busyness of life. What’s the best way to put a smile on your face? Give me cake. I always smile for cake, I have a very sweet tooth. What does sustainability mean to you? It’s about buying less, but appreciating it more and owning it for longer. I buy a lot of secondhand, in part because it’s sustainable and I like that about it, but also because it already comes with a story, and stories are what make things special. How can we save the world? By doing our best. I have a tendency towards perfectionism, I think a lot of creatives do. But it’s about not letting perfectionism stand in the way of doing something good for the world. Your greatest failure? My inbox is a genuine tragedy of a train wreck. Your greatest triumph? My first cookbook. It was a huge milestone for me. My dream was to write a cookbook, so having it published made me incredibly happy. And then being able to go on and do more books feels like an incredible privilege. Your epitaph would read... She never knowingly undercatered.
Skye’s tableware collection, Tavola, is inspired by Venice and Italian entertaining
Skye McAlpine’s new tableware collection is out now. skyemcalpinetavola.com n
SCENT Rose. SERIES Brideshead Revisited. CHOCOLATE BAR Kinder Maxi. SONG Like a Prayer by Madonna. DISH Tiramisu. GADGET KitchenAid Mixer. RESTAURANT Harry’s Dolci in Venice. HOLIDAY Amalfi Coast.
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; PEXELS
QUICK FIRE FAVOURITES...
24 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Rurbanist-V4-TD.indd 24
30/08/2024 12:20
Islay
Green Rough-Out Suede BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON
MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879
Our most iconic brogue Derby Boot Made using a durable, waxed suede with water-resistant properties
CROCKETTANDJONES.COM
Crockett & Jones.indd 1
19/08/2024 15:20
COLUMN
The WILDIST
Fee Drummond submerges herself in Blue Mind theory and practice
Manually trimming sails aboard a spectacular classic schooner is something I will never forget. An ever-changing sea, wind and course mean there is no other option than to live fully present in the moment. This is the luxury: spending time while fully concentrated and physically active. Appreciating time as it passes, concentrated on one manual action, while striving as a team to be better… I have no other word than ‘mesmerising’ for this. Isn’t that the state that we seek the most? In love, in awe, in surprise and wonder? I have learnt that you need to make active choices towards finding life’s mesmerising states. Being lost in comfort and wonder only comes about by choosing what most ignites your soul on fire. These are the moments in today’s world that are so hard to find, but find them in our daily lives we must.
WILD HACKS
A
fter a summer spent at home on the south coast, in, on or around the water, I have adopted a ‘Blue Mind’, as coined by marine biologist Dr Wallace J Nichols. This is a calm mental and physical state, achieved by living life as a paid-up thalassophile (someone who loves the sea). The key is to be surrounded by – and immersed in – nature, so much so that it becomes bigger than you. The mind cannot do anything other but submit to the power, beauty and intricacy of this world, and to lose its own ego in the process. Nature is so therapeutically humbling. In June, I had the extraordinary privilege of sailing on some classic yachts, where team work, rope and sign language trump digital devices. The intimacy of being part of a team appeals to my tribal instincts. The connected nature of the all-hands-ondeck experience of sailing, watching and waiting for simple signals from the forestay crew, is a truly hypnotic way to spend high quality time.
1 SCATTER These recycled crushed shells make a great sustainable compost. From £5, shellon earth.co.uk
2 JOURNAL Do it each morning to offload the minutiae of the mind. I currently use Becoming a Warrior by Intelligent Change. £27, intelligentchange.com
3 BATHE Soak in soothing and moisturising Atlantic seaweed from the west coast of Ireland. Voya detoxifying seaweed bath, £24. voya.ie n
PHOTOS: PEXELS; © FEE DRUMMOND
Spending time around water sets our minds and bodies at ease, as described by Dr Wallace J Nichols in his book Blue Mind; Fee wears dress by Kalita
26 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
The-Wildist-V3-TD.indd 26
30/08/2024 12:21
AUDLEY HOUSE, LONDON W1K 2ED | + 44 (0) 20 7499 1801 | PURDEY.COM
Purdey.indd 1
28/08/2024 17:10
Collezione ANNIVERSARY LOVE
Recarlo.indd 1
01/08/2024 15:44
STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy
Natural BEAUTY For autumn 2024, Fable England has partnered with the Natural History Museum on a beautiful new botanical print, ‘Floral Engravings’. The intricate illustration, seen across scarves, bags and jewellery, is taken from the work of trailblazing 17th-century German entomologist, Maria Sibylla Merian. fableengland.com
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 29
Style-Opener-V3-TD.indd 29
30/08/2024 12:28
STYLE | Column
The STYLIST Tiffanie Darke has some ideas for your back-to-work bag
S
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Billy Tannery x British Pasture Leather Fauna bag, £585. billytannery.co.uk; Stella McCartney Frayme Mirum mini square bucket bag, £1,295. stellamccartney.com; Mulberry x Eleventy Piccadilly bag, £1,750. mulberry.com
eptember is a tempting time to update your handbag. Nothing signals the start of la rentrée better than a seasonal piece of arm candy – but choose wisely, my friends. First, you need to choose between ethics and sustainability. If you are of the school that animals shouldn’t die for our wardrobes, you need a vegan option. But beware: the vast majority of vegan leather is polyurethane backed, which means it is plastic. Only Mirum, a material produced by natural fibre welding, has succeeded in 100 percent biodegradability, and while it is in scale-up mode, it is in hot demand. You can find it in Stella McCartney’s Falabella and Frayme ranges. Chains are on trend this season, which means there’s lots to love for the Frayme mini square bucket bag. However, if you believe that leather is a byproduct of the meat industry and so there is little point in making carbon intensive replacement materials, then you have more choice. But know your leather. The traceability of this material is notoriously poor – you are unlikely to distinguish between organic, grass fed, regenerative or industrially farmed leather (mostly because accessories brands are not keen on reminding you that the material is sourced from animals). Find the brands that do. Mulberry guarantees grass-fed leather, and the extremely capacious Mulberry x Eleventy Piccadilly is a bag for life if ever I saw one. Or look to British Pasture Leather. Essentially a certification scheme, this small two-woman team sources cattle hide directly from regenerative farms in the UK. It has now teamed up with Billy Tannery to produce its first bag, The Fauna, and it is an example to the rest of the industry. Billy Tannery is another brand to watch, sourcing leather from culled deer (the pest of the British countryside) and goats, which is tanned on a family farm in Leicestershire. In a story of perfect circularity, it also produces a range of accessories for the King, sourced from deer on the Royal Estates and sold in the Highgrove, Balmoral and Sandringham shops. Finally, Been London is perhaps the most sustainable brand of all, with everything made entirely from waste offcuts in local British workshops. Excellently priced for the material quality and craftsmanship, each style is made with limited hardware and in a limited run. There are some on-trend black and tan classics, but at that price why not go for a lilac or electric blue? Time to celebrate la rentrée. n
30 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Tiffanie-Darke-V3-KBLC.indd 30
30/08/2024 12:20
Manolo Blahnik.indd 1
27/08/2024 16:24
STYLE | News
The
EDIT Mariella Tandy has all the latest style news
BEAUTY BITES New season treats
Barbour’s latest must-have collaboration (remember the Ganni one, which sold out in days?) is with The William Morris Gallery. It blends Barbour’s heritage designs with two prints from the Morris archive, Eye Bright and Wey Print, which were designed in 1883 and have been reimagined in bold new colours. If your Barbour is due an upgrade this autumn, this is just the ticket. Jacket, £279. barbour.com
1 Sensai Total Lip Treatment Stick, £50. harrods.com 2 Mecca Cosmetica To Save Face SPF30 Sunscreen, from £20. meccacosmetica.com 3 Bamford B Vibrant Body Polish, £45. bamford.com
For over 200 years, Norton & Sons has created the finest suits on Savile Row. Although these historically have been for men, the tailor has also dressed Queen Victoria, the Queen of Spain and the Empress of Austria over the years, plus creating tailoring for Christopher Kane, Jenny Packham and The Kooples. Now, following the drive for quality and sustainability over fleeting trends, it has developed its new womenswear block, with a slim, refined, and timeless silhouette, which can also be tweaked through its made-tomeasure and bespoke service. From £2,300. nortonandsons.co.uk
MINTY FRESH
There’s nothing like a pop of metallic to bring some brightness to gloomy autumn mornings. Penelope Chilvers’s mint Mary Janes are perfect for both denim and the dance floor, too. £219, penelopechilvers.com
PHOTOS: © DEPARTMENT TWO;
SUITS YOU
32 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
The-Edit-V3-TD.indd 32
30/08/2024 12:29
CHLOÉ Eve over-the-knee boots, £1,590. chloe.com
TOTEME Leopard boots, £1,410. toteme.com
PACK IT IN
ON THE RADAR
GANNI Chelsea boots, £575. ganni.com
It’s finally boot season
You can now rock Globe-Trotter’s iconic Centenary suitcase day in and day out with its new miniature Mayfair cross-body version. No airport required. £1,495, globe-trotter.com
REJINA PYO Rise ankle boot, £390. rejinapyo.com ACNE Leather buckle boots, £1,050. acnestudios.com
AEYDE Tabitha 65 ankle boots, £440. harveynichols.com
PHOTOS: © DEPARTMENT TWO;
WE’RE ALL CHEETAHS HERE
VAGABOND Aino boots, £145. vagabond.com
Chantecaille has put nature at its heart since it was founded in 1998, with milestones since then including supporting 35 conservation groups; 140,000 trees planted in Kenya; and 46 conservation collections launched. The latest is its new Cheetah Collection, a limited edition range of lipsticks and an eyeshadow palette, which support the Cheetah Conservation Fund, which is based in Namibia and works to rescue, rehabilitate and rewild cheetahs in Africa. Through the partnership, Chantecaille will be funding their efforts to stop the illegal trade of cheetah cubs in the Horn of Africa. chantecaille.com September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 33
The-Edit-V3-TD.indd 33
30/08/2024 12:29
MALONESOULIERS.COM MALONESOULIERS.COM Malone Souliers.indd 1
21/08/2024 16:55
Malone Souliers.indd 2
21/08/2024 16:55
Model wears Horsebit diamond earrings in rose gold and Horsebit diamond bracelet in rose gold
Horsebit diamond bracelet in rose gold
CELEBRATING A STYLE ICON As Gucci marks 20 years of its iconic Horsebit fine jewellery line, we take a look at its latest collection HERITAGE
The House of Gucci has long taken inspiration from the elegant equestrian world, with the now-iconic Horsebit emblem first sketched in a Gucci artisan’s notebook at the end of the 1940s. The motif went on to adorn its handbags, belts, small leather goods and its beloved Horsebit loafer in 1953, and has become one of the House’s most beloved and recognisable symbols. Later, in the 1970s, the emblem appeared on the House’s bracelets and watches, before the Horsebit fine jewellery line was first introduced in 2004. Today, in honour of its 20th anniversary, Gucci has reimagined the Horsebit motif, and reintroduced it in a covetable new fine jewellery collection.
36 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Gucci-V3-TD.indd 36
30/08/2024 12:39
PA R T N E R S H I P Model wears Horsebit diamond stud earrings in rose gold; Horsebit diamond ring in rose gold
A MODERN ICON
The Horsebit symbol has been reinvented with a fresh, contemporary aesthetic in Gucci’s new fine jewellery collection, which seamlessly blends the heritage of the emblem with contemporary trends. The gold pieces includes a lariat necklace with clasp closure and two pendants; a chunkier necklace with a large Horsebit pendant, ideal for more statement looks; a cuff bracelet featuring a flex mechanism; two elegant bracelets made by a sequence of Horsebit in a row as a chain; and studs and pendant earrings. The more delicate rose gold and diamond pieces include two intricate rings; a chain; two bracelets; and diamond-studded studs and pendant earrings, all featuring the iconic double-ring-and-bar emblem. The new collection, and accompanying campaign, shot by photographers Deo Suveera and Pamela Dimitrov, illustrates the timeless elegance of the iconic Horsebit motif, and how it can slot seamlessly into any wardrobe, anywhere. Discover the new Horsebit fine jewellery collection at gucci.com
Horsebit bracelet in gold
Model wears Horsebit chain necklace in gold
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 37
ADV-Gucci-V3-TD.indd 37
30/08/2024 12:39
STYLE | Jewellery GOING OUT OUT
‘I have magical memories of parties until the end of the night, when we leave the dance floor to find the first rays of the sun,’ shares Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of the eponymous maison, about its latest high jewellery collection, Midnight Sun, modelled by Natalia Vodianova. This is realised through playing with contrasts and exploring chiaroscuro. This So Move Max suite plays with bold, graphic and oversized silhouettes, alternating links of pavé and baguette-cut diamonds. £POA. messika.com
Natalia Vodianova shot by Vito Fernicola
DIG THIS
Odyssey is Monica Vinader’s first fully traceable aquamarine collection. It features gemstones mined by a female workforce in Zimbabwe, which can be tracked by the brand’s new Product Passport, which traces the gems’ journeys and ensures suppliers can be held accountable for their social and environmental impacts. From £118. monicavinader.com
The Magpie
MODERN TALISMANS
Dazzling jewellery news, by Mariella Tandy JUST ADD JEWELS
Kiki McDonough pioneered the trend for buildable earrings when she launched her Detachables Collection 20 years ago. To celebrate the anniversary, the jeweller has released 20 new, limitededition pieces, featuring her signature vibrant rainbow-hued gems. From £1,700. kiki.co.uk
TIED WITH A BOW
High jewellery meets haute couture with Mikimoto’s latest collection, The Bows, which elaborates on the pearl house’s ribbon motif. This gaspworthy necklace features strings of around 1,000 Akoya pearls, plus shimmering diamonds set in 18ct white gold. mikimoto.co.uk
1 LITO 18ct gold and labrodite necklace, €8,380. litofinejewelry.com 2 ASPREY Tourmaline heart pendant, £8,950. Available from the London flagship 3 CARTIER @ HANCOCKS Vintage Gemini pendant, £25,000. hancocks-london.co.uk 4 ROBINSON PELHAM Wish necklace, £5,990. robinsonpelham.com
38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Magpie-V4-TD.indd 38
30/08/2024 12:25
Sabina Savage.indd 1
15/08/2024 15:03
Holland Cooper.indd 1
08/08/2024 11:31
WATCH THE FILM
Holland Cooper.indd 2
08/08/2024 11:31
STYLE | Wardrobe ASPREY 1781 Ascot shoulder bag, £3,250. asprey.com
LOCK & CO Cashmere beanie, £125. lockhatters.com
SABINA SAVAGE Lunar leopard, £265. sabinasavage.com
BEAUMONT ORGANIC Brogan hat in flame, £60; Shika jumper, £260; Wisteria skirt, £150. beaumontorganic.com
LE CHAMEAU Vierzon boots, £180. lechameau.com
MOSS SIDE
TROY LONDON Denim shirt, £145. troylondon.com
Mariella Tandy nails modern country chic
A SINNER IN PEARLS Freshwater pearl and crystal necklace, £170. asinnerin pearls.com
MULBERRY X REJINA PYO Bag, £895. mulberry.com
GOBI CASHMERE Sleeveless turtleneck, £149. gobicashmere.com
HERDWEAR Jumper, £495. herdwear.co
CHALBURY Dorchester boots, £245. chalbury.com
HOUSE OF BRUAR Balmoral coat, £245. houseofbruar.com HONEY & TOAST Half moon bag, £190. honeyandtoast.co.uk
DIOR @ SELLIER KNIGHTSBRIDGE Preloved saddle bag, £2,850. sellierknightsbridge.com
HOLLAND & HOLLAND Northwood boots, £585. hollandandholland.com
42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Style-Trend-V5-TD.indd 42
30/08/2024 12:28
Dubarry.indd 1
28/08/2024 17:17
STYLE | Interview Jade Holland Cooper is the founder of her eponymous fashion brand that’s taking the country style set by storm
HOLLAND COOPER Regal Horse silk scarf, £149
Favourite accessories for a finishing touch? For
HOLLAND COOPER Marlborough houndstooth trench, £849
daytime, it would be a silk scarf – we do them in so many different ways: you can wear them as a tie, wrapped around your handbag, or in your hair. For the evening, Holland Cooper has a really beautiful crystal clutch bag. The chain can be detached and be worn as a chunky necklace. What do you wear on a night out? We’re launching a line
of eveningwear in October, which is really exciting. I also love Saint Laurent dresses – if you’re looking to invest in something, a black dress will take you anywhere.
MY STYLE
Favourite under-the-radar labels? Ong-Oaj Pairam is one SAINT LAURENT Cowl neck dress, £2,280. ysl.com
Do you go for timeless or trend-led pieces? For me,
What’s your daily uniform? I’m wearing a lot of full
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM Dress, £POA. ong-oajpairam.com
suiting at the moment, with a tie and tie pin. I’m really leaning into that masculine-led suiting, but making it feminine. Also classic denim: with a white shirt and a good pair of flats, you can go anywhere in it. Who’s your style crush? The Princess of Wales. For me, she is just the epitome of classic chic.
all the layering; you can get your roll neck on. For me, it’s just such a chic time of year. A staple in everyone’s wardrobe is a beautiful, tailored coat, because it will just take you anywhere. It’s the perfect investment piece. What does country style mean to you? A fusion of practicality and chic style, which is what we’ve created at Holland Cooper. Whether I’m gardening or walking the dog, I still want to wear something that I feel good in. Country style is and can be elevated while still doing the job and working hard for you.
The Princess of Wales wears Safiyaa to Wimbledon
it’s always timeless. When you’re busy and you’re on the go, you want pieces that are going to fit into your wardrobe and work hard, and that won’t be out of touch next season. Ninety-eight percent of my wardrobe is classic pieces. Any style hacks? Less is more. You can look amazing in a black roll neck and a well cut pair of jeans – you don’t have to be too overdone. hollandcooper.com n HOLLAND COOPER Belgravia clutch bag, £499 PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK
Meet Jade Holland Cooper, the woman elevating country style
What’s your go-to piece in your wardrobe for autumn/winter? It’s my favourite season. You can do
of my favourites. He’s amazing, and some of the gowns they do are just spectacular.
44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
My-Style-V3-TD.indd 44
30/08/2024 12:25
THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING SCOTLAND AT ITS VERY BEST
To order a copy of our new Autumn Winter catalogue please call 01796 483236 or visit
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM
House of Bruar.indd 1
21/08/2024 12:27
STYLE | Men’s SUPER SHARP SHOOTERS Huntsman has introduced its first capsule collection designed for shooting and field sports, including wax jackets, tweed shooting vests and breeks, immaculately tailored and with a strong focus on style as well as functionality. huntsmansavilerow.com SMARTY PANTS
Well Groomed
Utilising great fabrics and with an emphasis on fit and sustainability, Amsterdam’s Mr Marvis menswear brand has an extensive range of trouser styles in a variety of colourways, whether you’re seeking smart stretch chinos, flannels, actives or ‘easies’. mrmarvis.com
Matt Thomas has the seasonal style updates for sartorially minded men
DIVE IN
Stride into autumn
This vibrant Herbelin divers’ watch has a sporty-sleek, neo-vintage design that’ll look just as good 200 metres down as it does on dry land. The first 15 minutes are highlighted in bright orange, so divers can accurately track their descent – and when to ascend again. Herbelin Self-Winding Cap Camarat Diver, £1,170. herbelin.com
HEAD FOR THE HILLS
Oliver Brown’s ‘Out Of Town’ collection is the perfect go-to for country casual styling, with a palette drawn from nature including sage greens, rich browns and hints of lavender. uk.oliverbrown.store
FAVOURBROOK Corduroy trousers, £270. favourbrook.com
TAKE A WALK ON THE STYLED SIDE
CONNOLLY Poacher’s coat, £950 connollyengland.com
Go wild in the countryside SCHOFFEL Barnsdale Cap Skye Tweed, £69.95. schoffelcountry.com
WELL HEELED
1 EDWARD GREEN Greenwich unlined cognac cordovan, £1,750. edwardgreen.com
WESTLEY RICHARDS Expedition shirt in tobacco, £185. westleyrichards.com
2 FAIRFAX & FAVOR Chelsea ankle boot, £200. fairfaxandfavor.com
EJ CHURCHILL Bruton briefcase, £540. ejchurchill.com
3 HUSH PUPPIES Seventy8 sneakers, £70. hushpuppies.co.uk 4 CROCKETT & JONES Donegal boots, £610. crockettandjones.com
46 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Well-Groomed-V5-TD.indd 46
30/08/2024 12:30
Holland & Holland.indd 1 2024.indd 3 H&H_Country & Townhouse
08/08/2024 01/08/2024 14:32 17:02
STYLE | Social Scene
Alicia Meireles
Lee Lovett, Claire Vallis and Chloé Ramful
The Cole & Son cover; Carole Annett, Pandora Lewis and Tessa Dunthorne
Marissa Annechiarico
Shalini Misra
Alexandria Dauley
IN THE HOUSE
Claire Gaskin Imogen Blackwell
Venetia Rudebeck and Romanos Brihi
The best and brightest of the interiors world joined us at The Bvlgari Hotel
Freya Richmond
Rebecca Craig
Elaine Sullivan
T
Alberto De Micheli, Hasnaa N, Gemma Miller and Camilla Sperotti
Gemma Glander, Gail Taylor and Kirra Kearns
Diane Davids
Awards by Lladró
Harry Parshall and Juliette Byrne
Olivia Emily, Mia Biagioni, Martha Davies and Anoop Bhuller
PHOTOS: © MARCUS DAWES
Jodie Cooper
he creative cognoscenti from the worlds of interior design and gardening gathered to celebrate the latest edition of Country & Town Interiors, and its fabulous cover by Cole & Son. Nolita Social, the Bvlgari Hotel’s party hot-spot, hosted the event for the second year running, providing delicious canapés and a steady stream of Ferrari sparkling wine. Three awards were handed out: The Green Award, for a company that has pushed regeneration, circularity and sustainability, went to Johnstons of Elgin; The Community Award, for a project that benefits the local community, was won by The Soho Lighting Company; and The Collaborative Award was won by Sanderson Design Group for its collaboration with Giles Deacon. The winners received beautifully crafted, colourful Firefly lamps by Lladró.
48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Party-Page-Interiors-V2-TD.indd 48
30/08/2024 12:26
Nina Campbell.indd 1
12/04/2024 15:53
STYLE | Social Scene
Lucy Cleland and Hubert Losguardi
Kim Palmer and Kate Harvey
Ivy Lin and Gaurav Lamba Silmiya Hendricks Teresa Levonian Cole
Andrew Stembridge
STYLISH STAYS
Rosie Jane Burrill
Celebrating our homegrown hotels at The Mayfair Townhouse
Pegi Amarteifio and Lydia Cook
C
elebrating our homegrown hotel industry – ideally with a glass of cold Rathfinny at The Mayfair Townhouse hotel – is something C&TH loves doing, and our annual Great British & Irish Hotels guide gives us the perfect opportunity. Profiling places to stay from all corners of these isles, and including plenty of travel ideas and things to do, we also champion the hotels that are putting sustainability front and centre. This year our Sustainable Hotel of the Year award, sponsored by Polestar, was awarded to The Pig hotels, which have recently achieved B Corp certification for all the incredible in front and behind-the-scenes work they have done. The Pigs are definitely flying.
Tom Ross and Fiona Duncan
Clare Gillespie and Octavia xxxxxxxxxx??
Susie and Andrew Reid Thomas
Brooke Nieper, Ernest Attoh and Grace Williams
PHOTOS: © MARCUS DAWES
Geetie Singh and Juliet Kinsman
50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Party-Page-Hotels-V4-PB.indd 50
30/08/2024 12:26
Osbourne & Little.indd 1
21/08/2024 15:06
Available at
Available at
John Bell and Croydon.indd 1
27/08/2024 13:29
HEALTH &
WELLBEING On the Row
Every form of exercise offers unique benefits that cater to different needs, preferences and goals. If you’re looking for a low-impact activity that combines cardio and strength, then rowing might be the workout for you. Regarded as one of the best total-body exercises, it engages up to 86 percent of muscles in a single session. On page 58 Camilla Hewitt asks double Olympic gold medallist Alex Gregory for his advice on how to get started.
Olympic rower Alex Gregory hitting his stroke on the water
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 53
HW-Opener-V3-TD.indd 53
30/08/2024 13:05
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Notes
The
SCOOP
What the sleep warriors are obsessed with now. By Charlotte Cole
HIPPY HIPPY SHAKE
Trying something new can make you happy, particularly when you’re offered a tinkly, belly-dancer’s hip-scarf and The Peak health club’s gobsmacking London views. As you and your co-dancers do staccato movements, sinuous ones, shimmies and shivers, under the expert tuition of bellydancer Cordula Neckerman, you’ll isolate your torso muscles and articulate your hips (benefiting posture, digestion and mental health). And fill yourself with (immunity-boosting) endorphins. It’s meditative too (your mind can’t wander). Plus, quickly copying movements and syncing to the rhythm will help form new neural passageways. Weekly lessons are a brilliant body-brain workout. BOOK IT: Membership from £500. peakfitnessclubandspa.com; jumeirah.com
If you’re one of the ten percent with breakouts that make you want to hide away, there’s a novel laser treatment to try. Dermatologist Dr Haus is the king of banishing acne. He’ll mutter passionately about shrinking your sebaceous glands, then send you off for a deeply cleansing Hydrafacial (reduces inflammation). Next you’ll be treated to a combination of advanced laser technologies, their different wavelengths addressing separate aspects of acne formation. While most clinics have only one laser, his boasts multiple devices, some the first in Europe – so you’ll be tackling your acne, inflammation, redness and scars simultaneously. Plus, it promotes long-term skin health, and leaves you with a model’s complexion. From £900. drhausdermatology.com
HIT SNOOZE
The latest device for the sleep-obsessed or anxiety-ridden? Nurosym. This petite machine that you attach non-invasively via a wire to the tragus part of the ear (the small bump in front of the canal) for an hour a day, works by sending electrical pulses via your ear into the vagus nerve. This nerve runs from base of the brainstem, down the neck, on through the chest, heart and lungs and into the digestive system. If you can stimulate it, it’s like giving a signal to your body that it’s ok to calm down, which brings with it a whole host of benefits, including improving sleep and lessening anxiety – a holy grail wellness state for so many of us nowadays. There is a lot of research going on into the benefits of vagus nerve stimulation (including good results for those suffering from long Covid) and Nurosym is at the forefront. You need to wear it regularly, every day, for a few weeks before you notice results – but notice them you will. Sweet dreams. £599. nurosym.com
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; PEXELS
SPOT IT
54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Scoop-V2-PB.indd 54
30/08/2024 12:34
SAVO IRB E DS.C O M
THE SAVVY Nº5. A BED FOR REAL LIFE.
CTH_SavvyNo5.indd 4 Savoir.indd 1
05/04/2024 18:21:45 05/08/2024 11:26
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness Clinique La Prairie is on the shores of Lake Geneva, set against a dramatic backdrop of the Alps
SPA Trek
Worried about diminishing brain power? Clinique La Prairie boosts body and mind, says Lucy Cleland
I
t’s no surprise that men of a certain type are attracted to Clinique La Prairie. Switzerland does health well. World-beatingly so. And the sense of order – the staff in head-to-toe white uniforms, the glossy, glass medical centre, the manicured gardens – that pervades one of the country’s most renowned clinics is palpable. Not that it’s anti-women, of course – it’s just the way it plays out currently, with around 70 percent of guests being men: highpowered, super-stressed execs, only addressing their health needs when it has become all too apparent that they need to. You can spot them on the terrace over lunch; well dressed, playing with their smartphones, brows intensely furrowed. They’re also worried about their brain power – and how to maintain it as they grow older. To cater for those whose professional performance depends on excellent memory and razor-sharp mental acuity, Clinique La Prairie has recently launched Brain Potential, alongside its most popular (and effective) Master Detox and Revitalisation programmes – all are based on the clinic’s four pillars of medical, nutrition, wellbeing and movement. This one though is specifically designed to take an accurate snapshot of where your brain health is currently (the list of tests is long, but starts with an MRI) – and how it’s possible to decelerate its deterioration. Brain Potential is designed to educate guests around prevention; once there is real cognitive decline, intervention has to be clinical and pathological. The programme is packed, with a doctor’s appointment each day, more tests than you can shake a stick at from CogniFit, a brain-based learning platform that uses brain research and cognitive science to create exercises to boost brain health, DNA and epigenetic testing
(looking at how your lifestyle affects your biological age), and checking that your gut bacteria is flourishing. There is no other clinic in the world where you can be tested so comprehensively. When you’re not in the cryotherapy booth (a great metabolism booster) or having an AudioVitality session (low frequency soundscapes induces deep relaxation and can help with everything from stress reduction to tinnitus relief), you might well be having a breathing session with free-diver Phil Simha. Learning to breathe effectively is really one of life’s greatest gifts, he says, because it’s not only free but can extend your lifespan by years. A 45-minute session with him is worth its weight in gold. You needn’t worry about thin broth and stale bread rations either; the food at Seeds, helmed by chef David Alessandri, is exquisite. Think spiny lobster, stuffed vegetables and risoni; or black rice risotto with mixed carrots and cardamom. Learning about neurotrophic nutrition – ‘brainfood’ – is part of the programme, and you’ll meet with nutritionist Adamantia, to discuss it. If you have a spare hour and the weather is good, then a dip in Lake Geneva is a cold-swimmer’s delight; and the lake-side walk into Montreux will take you just 20 minutes. Hikes into the surrounding mountains are a must. They say a change is as good as rest – here, on the glittering shores of Lake Geneva, in the hands of the some of the world’s most qualified doctors, you’ll achieve far more than that – a boost for body and brain. BOOK IT: Seven-day Brain Potential Programme, approx £23,700. cliniquelaprairie.com
56 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Spa-Trek-V3-TD.indd 56
30/08/2024 12:35
The Art of Bespoke CHELSEA | HAMPSTEAD | HATCH END | GUILDFORD | BRENTWOOD | HAMPTON HILL
Neatsmith.indd 1
27/08/2024 15:59
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness
BODY & SOUL Mastering rowing is just as good for relaxation as fitness, says Camilla Hewitt
I
f you’ve set your sights on gliding across a glassy lake, double Olympic gold medallist Alex Gregory suggests mastering the basics on a machine first. Contrary to popular belief, it’s a ‘push’ rather than a ‘pull’ that drives the movement. ‘We start the stroke with a push of the legs, our most powerful muscles,’ notes Alex. ‘As we push backward, we swing the body back, using core strength to add speed. We finish the “drive phase” with the arms, which follow the momentum we’ve created: Legs, Body, Arms. The second part is called the “recovery”. It’s a chance to regroup, reorganise, and relax while sliding forward. It starts by pushing the hands away to straighten the arms, then rocking the body forward, and finally bending the knees to glide forward, ready to push back again: Arms, Body, Legs.’ Together, these two parts create the smooth, cyclic, continuous movement required for both rowing machines and on-water rowing. To pick up speed, Alex tells me, it’s not just about strength and power; there’s a significant element of relaxation required too. ‘The best way to achieve this is by focusing on one area of the body and allowing relaxation to spread from there. Start with the feet. If we imagine our feet “floating” in our shoes, that looseness will extend up our legs to the rest of the body.’ In addition to relaxation, Alex adds that rhythm is key to maintaining consistency throughout a workout. ‘To create a really strong, effective rhythm, we need to produce identical strokes one after the other.’ To complement training, Alex recommends front squats to build leg and core strength while encouraging good posture, control, and mobility. ‘The core is crucial for rowing because it links everything we do throughout the stroke. Build a strong core and you’ll be powerful, effective, and reduce the chance of injury. A simple set
Olympic rower Alex Gregory is keen on the benefits of rowing for your mental as well as physical health
of planks or Russian twists are ideal daily exercises.’ As with any exercise, stretching is essential. For rowing, focusing on the glutes is particularly important, especially post-workout. ‘Keep these muscles loose, flexible, and in good health, and you’ll be rowing well for a long time.’ Once you’ve taken all that on board, the mind can begin to benefit from the rhythmic motion of rowing too. Whether you’re in a boat or on a machine, Alex believes that rowing is a wonderful way to practise singular focus and find a mental break from normality – a form of meditation even. He says that this goes a step further if you take your rowing to the water. ‘There’s one thing I miss more than anything else after retiring from competition – watching my fingertips leave land every morning. That simple action can create an incredible physical separation from our norm, something I believe we all need to find in some way to help us in the busy lives we lead.’
CHECK IN: MIND BODY ROW EXPERIENCE, PORTUGAL Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned rower, this is an opportunity to experience on-water rowing with Alex Gregory. The five-night Mind Body Row Experience is set in the beautiful Portuguese countryside, and also includes yoga, wine tasting, and motivational fireside talks. BOOK IT: 16-21 May 2025, from £3,499pp. alexgregorygb.com/experiences
TAKE A SEAT Alex’s top tips for making the most of your workout 1 COMFORT Rowing can be tough on your backside after a while, so for a bit of relief I’d suggest using a seat pad. You can opt for a yoga mat cut to shape, a folded towel, or a specifically designed rowing machine pad. 2 MOTIVATION We all need motivation, support and guidance on our exercise journeys. I’ve created the Mind Body Row app to guide you through every stroke of your row. mindbodyrow.com 3 HYDRATE Hydration is one of the most important aspects of recovery. Oshun is an electrolyte mix that ensures we hydrate properly and replace any lost minerals. £32.99 for 200 servings. drinkoshun.co
58 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Body-&-Soul-V3-TD.indd 58
30/08/2024 12:32
A Tradition of Sport since 1812. Explore our bespoke sporting arms, artisanal leather goods and outdoor collections.
Location: Gleneagles Hotel, Perthshire, Scotland.
westleyrichards.com
Westley Richards.indd 1
27/08/2024 09:48
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Review
BODY Language Olivia Falcon tries out the latest injectables for skin and hair
W
1
BRUSH
A good hairbrush should last a lifetime and this Altesse Studio Gentle Detangling Brush is a keeper. It’s handcrafted from olive wood, which limits static, with nylon fibres that ensure painless detangling and less breakage. £210, altesse-studio.com
Transform your face and scalp with these new tweakments
often happens at a change in season or can be caused by hormonal shifts commonly in the menopause. Dr Thivos from the super-slick Ouronyx clinic in London is offering PhilArt Polynucleotide injections (£1,300 for a course of three treatments; ouronyx.com) for hair rejuvenation. Polynucleotides, which are sourced from trout DNA, have reparative properties and are particularly effective in addressing various hair and scalp issues. Promising to quell inflammation, increase hair density and even improve texture, Dr Thivos explains, ‘PhilArt creates a nurturing environment to allow for healthier and stronger hair. By enhancing collagen production and promoting cellular turnover, it contributes to a more robust and prolonged regenerative effect on hair follicles and scalp tissue and does not rely in your own bodies regenerative ability for the treatment.’ For best results, three to six weekly treatments are recommended and if you stick to it you should have more swish for the festive party season. n
MIND OVER MATTER
2
BATHE
Upgrade your evening soak with the Commune Bath Salts, containing over 90 minerals for optimising bodily functions, including pink Himalayan salt, Hawaiian black lava sea salt, lavender and hiba wood. £75, commune.cc
3
BALM
With a sweet caramel salve to cocoon parched skin, Joonbyrd Little Love Body Lotion is infused with actives including beta-carotene, amino acids, niacinamide, and ashwagandha. £66, joonbyrd.com
4
BASTE
The ultimate kit to restore youth to the backs of hands, Orveda’s Youth Glove Protocol includes an intensive serum hand mask and filler hand cream. Gloves lock in plumping ingredients. £165, orveda.com
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; PEXELS
hen it comes to cosmetic tweakments, facial fillers seem to have fallen out of favour mainly due to the oversharing of overstuffed faces on social media. But I can report the power of the needle is still strong as new injectable treatments abound. If you’ve ever stood in front of a mirror and pulled your fingers up across the top of your cheekbones to your temples to ‘lift’ your face you need to know about Profhilo Structura (from £550, thamesskin.co.uk), a new hyaluronic acid formula that is different from the original Profhilo as it is specifically designed to regenerate fat cells, giving a subtle lift to skin rather than merely hydrating it. Injections are administered to the mid face area, at the top of the cheekbone (there is little downtime, just a slight sting and some blistering that usually subsides within a few hours). A month later, skin seems firmer, there is less to pinch, but for best results a top up treatment is needed. Wait a further month and most people see a noticeable linear lift without any tell-tale puffiness, the face looks more contoured and angular and the eye area brighter. Structura is not a replacement for a surgical face lift, but it imbues the face with a natural looking and deeply pleasing freshness that will keep friends guessing as to exactly what’s changed for the better. Turning our attention to dull, post-holiday skin texture, Dr Sebagh’s Ultimate Skin Booster (£800, drsebagh.com), offers the ultimate glow-up combining collagen stimulators including plasma taken from the patient’s blood, polynucleotides, exosomes, peptides, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid. This potent cocktail is mixed in clinic and injected into the skin via the rapid fire mesotherapy gun that creates thousands of tiny channels in the skin without any pain and little downtime, (patients may look a little flushed for an hour). For real polish, Dr Sebagh recommends a course of three treatments, spaced three months apart. Finally, a note for anyone suffering from excessive hair shedding that
60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Body-Language-V3-PBAW.indd 60
30/08/2024 12:34
0333 011 3333
West One Bathrooms.indd 1
12/08/2024 11:33
HEALTH & WELLBEING | Beauty Dilemma VITA LIBERATA Body Blur, £33. boots.com
VEINY DAYS
SKIN DILIGENT Exosome Advanced Night Cream, £79. skindiligent.com
Say goodbye to spider veins and broken capillaries, says Nathalie Eleni
B
roken capillaries, also known as spider veins, are dilated red, purple or blue blood vessels that appear near the skin’s surface in a weblike pattern, usually on the legs or the face.
What causes broken capillaries?
As we age, the walls of our blood vessels become weaker and less elastic, leading to the development of broken capillaries. Overexposure to the sun’s harmful UV rays can also weaken the walls of blood vessels and cause inflammation, making them more prone to damage. Hormones, genetics, pregnancy, over-exfoliating, and alcohol consumption can also contribute. LIGHTINDERM What about lifestyle factors? Standing or sitting for Redness Programme, too long without moving and poor circulation also put £480. lightinderm.com increased pressure on veins. If this sounds like you, try wearing compression stockings, which apply gentle pressure to the legs to help improve blood flow. Excess weight can also weaken veins and contribute to their damage. What home treatments are there? Wear a broad spectrum SPF every day and incorporate LED light technology, which helps to calm and strengthen skin to help address redness that accentuates broken veins. Don’t over-scrub! Use a sonic cleansing gadget instead, which uses high-speed, gentle vibrations to break down impurities. You can also use a colour-correcting cream on your face to tame redness, and body make-up on your legs. How can I prevent broken veins on legs? Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and award-winning aesthetics doctor (theaestheticsdoctor.com) says, ‘There’s a huge link between the obesity epidemic and broken veins, because when you’re increasing the pressure on the lower limbs, they can start appearing. So, the first preventative is weight management. Number two is maintaining healthy skin and using skincare products, including moisturisers, shea butter, ceramides and peptides on the body to help maintain the integrity of skin.’
PMD Clean Redvolution, £209. harrods.com
ROSALIQUE 3 in 1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula SPF50, £29.99. rosalique.co.uk
Is there a needle-free, quick fix for broken facial capillaries? ‘The best treatment, hands down, is Sciton
SWISSLINE Never-Seen Sunscreen, £145. swisslinecosmetics.com
SKIN MATTERS Calming gel, £65. johnbellcroyden.co.uk
DR LEVY SWITZERLAND The ThermoGlow Pro Device, £249. cultbeauty.co.uk
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Broadband Light Treatment, the latest technology in intense pulsed light,’ says Dr Jenny Doyle, consultant oculoplastic surgeon and Head of Aesthetics at The Clinic Holland Park. ‘As well as instantly zapping those pesky broken capillaries around the nose, it tackles pigmentation and anti-ageing. A ten-year study by Stanford University showed that this treatment changes the gene expression of your skin cells, so they start acting younger than their chronological age! No downtime and it takes 20 minutes to do.’ (£1,300 for a course of three, recommended once or twice a year. theclinichollandpark.com) And the body? Microsclerotherapy is a procedure that involves injecting a solution directly into the broken veins, causing them to collapse and eventually fade away. Available at the Whitely Clinic with Prof Mark Whiteley and Dr Omar Abu-Bakr (consultation, scan and follow-up, £980; Varixio Microfoam Microsclerotherapy: £875; Liquid Microsclerotherapy, £460. thewhiteleyclinic.co.uk) n 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Beauty-Dilemma-V3-TD.indd 62
30/08/2024 12:31
Handmade in England Design Centre Chelsea Harbour samuel-heath.com
Samuel Heath.indd 1
23/08/2024 10:59
WHERE DRAMA MEETS ELEGANCE
The Londoner.indd 1
29/07/2024 09:48
C &T H PA R T N E R S H I P
Five¯Star
HEALTH
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
If you want best-in-class health and wellness destinations, look no further than Switzerland – it’s your longevity superstar
Switzerland has gained an international reputation for its health and wellness treatments and expertise
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 65
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 65
30/08/2024 13:07
S
witzerland has always triumphed as the go-to country for health. In 1853, German doctor Alexander Spengler put this Alpine paradise on the medical map, when he arrived in Davos. He was immediately struck by the healing abilities of the clean, mountain air. Word soon spread. By 1865, Davos had become Europe’s most important and largest pulmonary health resort. Spa resorts with healing thermal waters swiftly followed. International visitors flocked to the country. Some resorts are still going strong, including Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, founded in 1868, which combines the latest therapies in preventive and complementary medicine. Today, Switzerland continues to flourish as a medical hotspot with renowned specialists and cutting-edge medical facilities offering groundbreaking treatments. Couple that with the country’s excellent safety and security record, spectacular scenery and first-class service. It’s no surprise that the Swiss healthcare system was recently awarded gold in the prestigious EHCI (Euro Health Consumer Index), which compares the healthcare systems of 36 European countries. These exceptional health and wellbeing offerings have catapulted Switzerland into a powerhouse of longevity. Switzerland has one of the highest life expectancies. People across the planet want to follow in their footsteps. Not just living longer but thriving and on track to leading a long and healthy life. Switzerland takes the crown as the ideal place for people wanting to take a serious look at their health on all levels. Switzerland’s hospitals are considered the best in Europe. University L’Hôpital de la Tour
Clinic Bad Ragaz
University Hospital Zurich
Hospital Zurich has the broadest range of medical services. Alternatively, the long-standing clinic Privatklinik Bethanien, part of the Swiss Medical Network, is a five-minute’ walk away, with superb medical care, a highly skilled interdisciplinary team and complete discretion. Switzerland also excels in its specialist clinics, which offer medical procedures from hip replacements to rhinoplasty to the most advanced cancer treatments. The elegant Vista Eye Clinic, Pfäffikon SZ, overlooking Lake Zurich, is the first place for eye health, tackling cataract surgery, glaucoma, orthoptic treatments for children and everything in between. Mental health is very much a focus of Switzerland’s clinics. Private psychiatric clinic Privatklinik MENTALVA, amid the Swiss Alps, offers psychotherapy and complementary medicine for depression, anxiety, personality disorders and more. Also in the Alps is Clinic Les Alpes, near Montreux, with its tailor-made recovery plans for the treatment of addiction, trauma and other mental health issues. The Kusnacht Practice in Zurich takes a scientific approach, integrating internal medicine, psychiatric intervention and longevity treatments, using rigorous laboratory testing to design ‘your new life’. To ensure lasting change, Switzerland is home to excellent rehabilitation clinics. At Clinic Bad Ragaz, rehabilitation is treated like an art form, carefully combining the very highest standards of evidence-based medical expertise in the world with outstanding five-star hotel facilities. There’s also Rehaklinik Dussnang which specialises in musculoskeletal and geriatric rehabilitation, working with the latest medical insights and cutting-edge technology. Switzerland is one of the most innovative countries in the world. Its medical team is no different, pioneering new medical techniques, spearheading research and introducing some of
66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 66
30/08/2024 13:07
C &T H PA R T N E R S H I P The Kusnacht Practice
Privatklinik MENTALVA
Rehaklinik Zihlschlacht
the most advanced medical care internationally. This is boosted by the doctors working closely with universities, research institutes and major pharmaceutical companies. Indeed, two of the world’s largest pharmaceutical companies, Roche and Novartis, are based in Switzerland. This provides the perfect blend of scientific knowledge and practical expertise. The super impressive medical infrastructure also means minimal waiting time to see doctors. It’s no wonder that Switzerland has the highest survival rate in the world for cancer patients. State-of-the-art hardware and software are used to create patients’ personalised treatment plans. This continues into aftercare, with telemedicine allowing medical data to be shared remotely. And the tech continually evolves thanks to the strong financial position of the Swiss healthcare system. An excellent example of a tech-focused approach is Rehaklinik Zihlschlacht, which uses robotics to treat stroke and brain injuries, plus diseases such as Parkinson’s and multiple sclerosis. Clinique Générale-Beaulieu in Geneva also impresses with its robot-assisted Laparoscopic Surgery Centre featuring Da Vinci’s robotic system, one of the world’s leading technological advancements. Switzerland’s healing natural beauty adds to the country’s excellent medical care. Thanks to its boutique size, it’s quick to travel to and from both the clinics and the sensational sights. The life-giving sparkle of the mountains is glorious, from the glistening Matterhorn to the Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest railway station, surrounded by an Alpine wonderland of ice, snow and rocks. Then there’s the Glacier Express, Switzerland’s most luxurious (and spectacular) train journey, with breathtaking views of the rolling landscape. Alternatively, head to roaring Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall, and take in the extraordinary view. Or stick to one of Switzerland’s many elegant cities, such as Lucerne, with its cobalt lake, charming plazas and painted buildings. Luxury hotels are another way to reset and recharge. There is the urban retreat Dolder Grand with its standout 4,000 square-metres medi-spa. Just around the corner is Storchen Zürich, a centuries-old grande dame on the River Limmat, offering traditional hospitality, contemporary bedrooms and a Michelin-starred restaurant. In St Moritz, Carlton Hotel, perched high above a lake with palatial architecture, opulent interiors and spacious spa, is the ultimate escape – as is another mountain hideaway LeCrans Hotel & Spa, in the ski resort of Crans-Montana, with beautiful views over the slopes. From hospitals to clinics to luxury hotels with serious spas, Switzerland offers an all-around package for long-lasting health. The country’s extraordinary level of medical offerings now means visitors can significantly improve their physical health, mental acuity and emotional fulfilment long into their later life.
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 67
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 67
30/08/2024 13:07
SWITZERLAND’S TOP HEALTH CLINICS Whatever your diagnosis, there is a place for you
Experts in Mental Health
PRIVATKLINIK MEIRINGEN
Ever since Privatklinik Meiringen opened in the beautiful Hasli Valley in the Bernese Oberland in 1918, the clinic has been transforming lives with its treatment of all mental illnesses, particularly depression, personality disorders, burnout and geriatric psychiatry. With internationally acclaimed specialists at the helm, therapy programmes are individually tailored. Each is based on the latest thinking in psychiatric and hospital care, complemented by creative and experiential therapies. The comfortable hospital rooms hit all the right notes. So does the restaurant, which serves healthy, balanced dishes, adding to the healing process. privatklinik-meiringen.ch
Experts in Oncology
CLINIQUE DE GENOLIER
Experts in Environmental Illnesses
AYUS CLINIC
This clinic in Basel focuses on environmental medicine, using advanced laboratory diagnostics to cleanse your body from environmental effects (think pesticides, car exhaust and industrial emissions). The world’s leading specialist in ‘Body Clearance’, chronic and autoimmune diseases and healthy ageing are the main issues tackled here. Its approach is based on INUSpheresis technology, one of the most speedy and efficient methods for clearing the blood of toxins, inflammatory markers and disease-promoting substances. This clinically proven technology offers over 30 health benefits, regenerating your system and returning your body to its natural self-regulation. ayus.group
One of Switzerland’s largest private clinics, Clinique de Genolier is Swiss Medical Network’s flagship. Founded in 1972 and brilliantly located between Geneva and Lausanne, expect specialist medical care, cutting-edge technology and excellent outpatient services. There are luxury hotel services with contemporary-style bedrooms and an exceptional restaurant – complete with spectacular Alpine views. While this big hitter is multidisciplinary, Clinique de Genolier is celebrated for its cancer treatment. Its RadioOncology centre ranks among Europe’s most advanced facilities. The clinic is also the first facility in Switzerland to offer Intra-Operative Radiotherapy, an innovative treatment for early-stage breast cancer. swissmedical.net
68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 68
30/08/2024 13:07
C &T H PA R T N E R S H I P
Experts in Ophthalmology
VISTA EYE CLINIC PFÄFFIKON SZ
Overlooking glistening Lake Zurich, this elegant clinic is the Pfäffikon SZ outpost of the Vista Group which leads the way in modern ophthalmology, with 30 clinics throughout Switzerland. All eye diseases are covered here, combining outstanding specialised ophthalmologists and state-ofthe-art technologies. Specialities include cataract surgery, glaucoma treatment, laser and orthoptic treatments for children. There’s also a specialised department for aesthetic facial treatments. The pre- and post-operative care is excellent – plus, there is a concierge service for international guests to ensure everything runs smoothly. vista.ch/vdp-international
Experts in ENT
CLINIQUE DE MONTCHOISI
Founded in 1932, Clinique de Montchoisi, in Lausanne, shows no sign of slowing down. Now part of the Swiss Medical Network, the clinic stands out for its medical services complete with cutting-edge technology, offered by the best specialists across the globe. ENT is one of the clinic’s focuses, with an excellent team covering the whole gambit, from rhinoplasty to sinus operations to hearing aids. The spacious accommodation is spot-on, as is the La Pergola restaurant, with delicious seasonal dishes, accompanied by verdant views. swissmedical.net
Experts in Rehabilitation
KLINIK SCHLOSS MAMMERN
Run as a family venture since 1889 and today headed up by the fourth generation, Klinik Schloss Mammern, set on the shores of Lake Constance, does rehabilitation in style. Housed in a 17th-century chateau, with a new state-of-theart medical centre, every stage of rehabilitation is catered for by the very best physicians, working with the latest technology. Nature plays an important role, too, with the clinic’s design letting the outdoors in, from the beautiful bedrooms with terraces to the therapy rooms with lake views. The glass-walled restaurant tops it off, serving a daily-changing five-course lunch and dinner. klinik-schloss-mammern.ch
Experts in Addiction
NEOVIVA
This ultra-private boutique rehab clinic, with stunning views over Lake Lucerne, only opened in November 2022. However, it is already making its mark with its intelligent approach to addiction coupled with all the services of a five-star Swiss resort. Founder Oliver Neubert drew upon his own recovery to bring together a crack team of experts who tackle the underlying causes of addiction, using medical, psychological and nutritional therapies. neoviva.com
Experts in Weight Loss
L’HÔPITAL DE LA TOUR
Close to Geneva airport, L’Hôpital de La Tour’s mission is ‘caring for you as we would for ourselves’. The result is highly specialised multidisciplinary medical care, accompanied by personalised stateof-the-art programmes. Metabolism and obesity are some of its focuses, with an Obesity Centre on site. The doctors take a carefully thought-out approach, not just tackling the issue but also looking at the medical conditions behind the disease. la-tour.ch
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 69
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 69
30/08/2024 13:07
LESSONS IN LONGEVITY Scientific Officer of Chenot Palace Weggis, Dr George Gaitanos, on why we should be thinking in health-span – not lifespan
1
4
What does longevity mean to you? Longevity touches on many issues: topological, financial and societal. At Chenot, we focus on our health not in terms of disease but in terms of functionality and resilience. Health is our ability to adapt to life. You want to be functioning because inside you might be ageing fast but functionally you might be fantastic. Your quality of life is measured by your bodily functions and physical and cognitive performance.
2
What is your approach to longevity at Chenot? Chenot is a move away from traditional medicine into a whole new line of medicine which optimises your wellness. Mr Chenot introduced Traditional Chinese Medicine to balance the energy from an eastern medicine perspective. The energetic body creates a fantastic metabolic environment to reset the body. We use a lot of technology too. We recognise that the body’s functionality will be affected with the passing of time and your body is accumulating damage. Over the years, we’ve developed methods and moved with the science to reset the body’s programming in a way that you can move to a new level of functionality.
3
What everyday mistakes do people make which could affect their longevity? Not prioritising themselves. We are trying to educate our clients to create new habits because once you create new habits, you change your behaviour and move into a routine. The key to longevity is that everything can be reversed. We want our clients to go from consumers to becoming contributors to their own wellbeing.
Chenot Palace Weggis is beautifully set on the shores of Lake Lucerne. What outdoor activities in Switzerland are particularly good for longevity? There’s a lot of nature here. You can swim, trek, hike. There are amazing mountains so it’s easy to get outside. There are fantastic routes for cycling, too, and lots of roads have their own cycle lane. There are also great walking paths so there is no excuse.
Dr George Gaitanos
5
The Swiss are known for having one of the longest life expectancies. Why is this? Switzerland is a very well-organised nation. So, the element of stress is lower. The country has an excellent healthcare system too. People are also very, very active. They finish their day job and the next minute you see them on a bike, running or going trekking. This is great for building muscle, a very important longevity organ. Muscle has this fantastic autoregulatory ef fect. It also secretes hormones, molecules, cy tokines and they connect to the rest of the organs, the muscles, brain and your whole body. That, coupled with the socioeconomic factors and balanced lifestyle, all work together to create a formula for sustained wellness.
70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 70
30/08/2024 13:07
C &T H PA R T N E R S H I P Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
MEET THE EXPERTS Top tips on longevity from Switzerland’s finest minds
DR ISABEL DECURTINS Doctor, Grand Resort Bad Ragaz
‘Prioritise regular health check-ups. They are crucial for early detection and prevention of diseases. These check-ups should include a thorough analysis of vital health parameters, personalised risk assessments and tailored recommendations for lifestyle adjustments. Physical activity is a cornerstone of longevity. It’s essential not only for maintaining a healthy weight but also for reducing the risk of chronic diseases, enhancing mental health and improving overall quality of life. Finally, embrace holistic wellness practices, including proper nutrition and stress management.’ resortragaz.ch
SABINE SCHANZENBACH Director of Spa, The Dolder Grand
‘Regular exercise is key and can help to manage weight, strengthen the heart and reduce health complications. A balanced diet is crucial for longevity. Consuming various fruits, vegetables, whole grains and healthy fats has been linked to a lower risk of heart disease. Additionally, certain foods (nuts, berries, fatty fish) may contribute to a longer life. Finding healthy ways to cope with stress is also crucial such as meditation, yoga, deep breathing exercises and strong social support.’ thedoldergrand.com
RODOLPHE EURIN CEO, Hôpital de La Tour
‘Regular visits to healthcare specialists for checkups and screenings are essential. These visits can catch potential health issues early, making them easier to treat. Keeping your body active should also be a top priority. Numerous studies have demonstrated that regular exercise significantly reduces the risk of premature diseases. A balanced diet is fundamental to good health. Mental health is equally important. Practising stress-relief techniques such as
meditation, yoga, or deep-breathing exercises can help significantly for managing stress. Sufficient sleep also plays a crucial role in healthy ageing.’ la-tour.ch
DR ADELINE RICHARD
Doctor of Functional Medicine, Clinique Nescens
‘Focus on stress management. Our thoughts, feelings, beliefs, and emotions are all transformed into biological signals that can change a person’s gene expression, and impact immune function, hormones, microbiota, neurotransmitters, mitochondria and much more. Strengthen your muscles and build muscle. The more muscle you have as you age, the more functional you’ll remain, and the better your metabolism will be. Finally, increase your daily protein intake. As we age, our muscle mass tends to diminish, and we need a greater quantity of protein to trigger muscle development.’ nescens.com
DR ANTOINETTE SARASIN GIANDUZZO
Director of Biomolecular Restoration, Nutrition & Lifestyle, member of Board of Directors at The Kusnacht Practice
‘Understanding your body’s biochemistry is crucial. The BIO-R® treatment provides a proactive approach. Focusing on sustainable health practices is vital, as your biochemistry plays a significant role in how you feel physically and emotionally. By adopting habits that promote detoxification, boost energy levels, enhance mental clarity, and support weight management, you can significantly improve your wellbeing.’ kusnachtpractice.com n
To find out more about Health Travel in Switzerland, visit myswitzerland.com/en-gb/ planning/about-switzerland/health
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 71
ADV-Swiss-V5-TD.indd 71
30/08/2024 13:07
ASCOT FIREWORKS Country & Town House 225x298 v1.indd 1 Ascot.indd 1
07/08/2024 16:33 23/08/2024 11:02
PHOTO: © ENGLISH NATIONAL OPERA
CULTURE
Bohemian Rhapsody Puccini’s tale of love and loss and the clash between poverty and big dreams returns to the Coliseum to mark 100 years since the composer’s death. Director Jonathan Miller brings inter-war Paris to vivid, loud life with stars Nadine Benjamin as Mimi and Joshua Blue as Rodolfo. 26 September to 19 October. eno.org
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 73
Culture-Opener-V2-TDLC.indd 73
30/08/2024 10:00
CULTURE | What’s On
THE CULTURAL CALENDAR
Events for aesthetes and history geeks alike. By Tessa Dunthorne
HORSE DANCING PICTURE THIS
Saddle up for this news: the Spanish Riding School of Vienna is returning for its first UK tour in eight years. Expect elevated equestrianism meets ballet in a remarkable first-rate spectacle for the entire family – whether you’re a rider yourself or not. 18-20 October. livenation.co.uk
Photographer Andy Pilsbury headed to Wales to shoot the army of individuals involved in the epic rewilding of Penpont Estate. These photos are exhibited alongside the work of poet Ifor-ap-Glyn and paintings by Robert MacDonald, as part of the We Feed UK storytelling project. 22 Oct to 18 Nov at the Found Gallery, Brecon. wefeedtheuk.org
A REALLY BIG CORPUS OF WORK
Bharti Kher’s Alchemies puts the female body really, really on display – these teetering women are unmissable against the pretty Yorkshire hills. Exploring her work from 2000 to date, this is the most extensive presentation of her sculptures ever. Until 27 April 2024 at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park. ysp.org.uk
TALE AS OLD AS TIME
Who was Agent Zo? Can we retell Anne Boleyn’s story? And how did queer people like Oscar Wilde shape Chelsea’s history? The Chelsea History Festival answers these and more. 25-29 Sept. chelseaheritagequarter.co.uk
EASE(L) OF ACCESS
As we approach winter, have some decency and clothe the bare walls of your home – they’re looking cold. The Affordable Art Fair returns for its autumnal edition in Battersea, with pieces starting from a mere £50. The perfect way to uncover a new aesthete to admire. 16-20 October. affordableartfair.com
IT’S A HORSE MARKET
Highclere’s Yearling Parade is the UK’s most prestigious presentation of young horses – and its most exclusive. To bag an invite, you’ll need to be a serious prospective owner: no horsing about. 20-21 Oct. highclereracing.com
74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Whats-On-V5-TD.indd 74
30/08/2024 10:07
Draw back the curtains on London's best private venues and homes with Open House Festival
The Critical LIST
Watch, read, listen
Gary Oldman returns as the slovenly but sharp Jackson Lamb in the fourth season of Slow Horses, Apple TV’s espionage thriller centred around a group of disgraced MI5 agents. Out now
TV
THE C&TH GUIDE TO…
OPEN HOUSE FESTIVAL Your chance to peek behind the scenes of the capital’s most fascinating addresses. By Tessa Dunthorne
A
s rude though it may be to peer into a neighbour’s windows, it’s frankly impossible not to look sometimes. Open House Festival is an annual event that celebrates this very human impulse, opening the door for the public to explore some of London’s most incredible homes, iconic architecture and historic addresses. WHAT AND WHEN IS IT? Open House Festival was set up in 1992 to do exactly as it says on the tin: open up houses and spaces in order to make London a more accessible city. In particular, it allows unprecedented access to various buildings of historic, cultural or architectural note, through free public tours. During the rest of the year, these venues are almost never open to the public. For 2024, the programme includes access to The Herbarium at Kew Gardens; the historic BBC studios at Alexandra Palace, as well as Broadcasting House; the English National Ballet’s Mulryan Centre for Dance; The British Academy; the BT Tower; and 10 Downing Street. WHOSE HOUSES CAN I SEE? The festival also provides tours and drop-ins of private residences. You’ll see the immaculate homes of architects and designers – for example,
Open House festival's programme for 2024 includes regular cycling tours
Henning Stummel’s ultra-orange Tin House – which are bound to spark creativity, and perhaps inspiration for your own home. And then there’s also walking tours (a Muslim heritage one, for example, or one exploring Shepherd’s Bush Market) which encourage you to see the city through fresh eyes. Plus, there’s the chance to see come of the capital’s talented craftspeople in action at places like Blackhorse Lane Atelier (denim), the Isokon Collection (furniture) and London Glassblowing. It’s a truly packed programme – and the perfect way to reconnect with our amazing city. Open House London runs between 14-22 September. To discover the full programme, visit openhouse.org.uk
Beetlejuice fans have been waiting 26 years for a sequel, and this autumn it’s finally here. Many original cast members will be reprising their roles, alongside the addition of spook queen Jenna Ortega. Out now
FILM
Doctor Who’s Jodie Whittaker is returning to the stage for the first time in a decade, starring in The Duchess (of Malfi), a new version of John Webster’s classic. 5 October to 20 Dec
PLAY Sally Rooney’s hotly anticipated next novel Intermezzo explores themes of grief and family through the lens of brothers Peter and Ivan, who are brought together after losing their father. Out 24 Sept (Faber & Faber, £20)
BOOK September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 75
Whats-On-V5-TD.indd 75
30/08/2024 10:08
PREVIEW
Ellie Smith takes a seat for the season’s literary festivals
M
usic festival season may be coming to a close, but autumn is the best time of year for book lovers. An array of top literary festivals take place all over the country throughout September and October, and the 2024 line-up is looking particularly impressive. One of the most prestigious events on the bibliophile’s calendar is the annual festival at Cliveden, the country estate which has played a pivotal role in British history. Since being built in 1666, the venue has been a magnet for writers, with guests including everyone from Alexander Pope to Tennyson – making it the perfect venue for storytelling. This year’s programme of speakers includes authors Salman Rushdie, Ian McEwan, Elif Shafak and Robert Harris, alongside historian Tom Holland and journalist Emily Maitlis (21–22 September, clivedenliteraryfestival.org). Henley Literary Festival is also
back this September for its 18th edition, offering over 100 talks, workshops and performances for all the family. Michael Palin will be there for the first time since 2012 with his latest volume of diaries, while news veteran Zeinab Badawi will be making her festival debut. They’ll be joined by the likes of One Day author David Nicholls, poet Pam Ayres, gardening expert Sarah Raven and BAFTA-winning comedian Danny Wallace (28 September to 6 October, henleyliteraryfestival.co.uk). For something slightly different, head to the pretty fishing village of Port Isaac for the North Cornwall Literary Festival: an independent, locally run event centred around St Endellion Church. Don’t miss talks from poet Simon Armitage, Irish writer Ann Enright and journalist Sathnam Sanghera, alongside craft sessions, writing workshops and live music. (27–29 September, endelienta.org.uk)
MY Cultural Life
Heartstopper’s Corinna Brown is a bad-ass sword-wielding Viking Season 3 of Heartstopper is under wraps... Although if
you’ve read the comics – it follows that story. But the characters and the themes are more mature.
Playing Tara gives a platform to young, queer female experiences... Sometimes I get really overwhelmed [at fan
meets] – I’m crying with people! People tell me they feel seen with it, and as an actor that’s all I’ve ever wanted to do, because if I were a kid watching that show, I’d be like: ‘oh my god, she looks like me, I can do that. I want to do that’. I did stunts in Supacell, Vikings: Valhalla, and Snow White... I loved the rowdiness of Supacell, it had lots of wires and Cliveden
flying. If there’s a wire rig, I’ll do it. I love using my stunt skills. Let’s just have a little explosion in the [Heartstopper] science lab next season... I’m reading this incredible book at the moment...
The Children of Blood and Bone by Tomi Adeyemi. It’s about dying magic and African culture. The imagery is brilliant – I highly recommend it to anyone with an active imagination. My favourite gallery in London is the Tate... I remember going – you know how they always change the galleries – and there were these three blank canvases. It fascinated me to see how many people were, like, reading into a blank canvas. Like, this is the art: watching people look at the art. In another life, I’d not be an actor... I’d be an astronaut – in my wildest dreams. I’d love to go to space. I wish I were more science-y. Actually: that’d be a cool role. Port Isaac
Corinna Brown returns as Tara in season three of Heartstopper on Netflix on 3 Oct. netflix.com
CORINNA PHOTO CREDITS: PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOLLIE ROSE SKEFFINGTON, STYLING BY RACHAEL PERRY, MAKEUP BY JOY ADENUGA, HAIR BY DIONNE SMITH. LOCATION: SHAI SPACE. LIGHTING ASSISTANT: DANNY COZENS. RETOUCH: EDD KASPAR
CULTURE | What’s On
76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Whats-On-V5-TD.indd 76
30/08/2024 10:08
Woman Reading by the Window, 2024. Oil on canvas 200 x 160 cm, 78 1/2 x 63 in
Farah Atassi The Lost Hours London October 7 – November 9, 2024 FarahAtassi-C&TH 1 Almine Rech.indd ad.indd 1
26/08/2024 10:23 10:00 27/08/2024
CULTURE | Books
THE PAST IS A FOREIGN COUNTRY
Richard Hopton reviews three historical novels, two set in Italy, the other in Ireland
1
THE INHERITANCE by Cauvery Madhavan
The Beara peninsula in the far south-west of Ireland is the backdrop for Cauvery Madhavan’s latest novel. It opens with Marlo O’Sullivan, a young journalist from London, moving in 1986 into a cottage he’d inherited on the peninsula. His parents had been brought up there before emigrating to England. The novel charts his assimilation into his ancestral community, where everyone knows everyone else’s business and little is forgotten. The story is full of Irish charm and mild eccentricity, and infused with the beauty of the ancient, in places almost primeval, landscape. Marlo’s story is echoed in an account folded into the main story of the local resistance to the brutal English invasion in 1602. It’s a wonderful novel about identity and belonging, themes explored through the web of connections, physical and spiritual, which lie at its heart. Hope Road, £12.99
2
COSTANZA by Rachel Blackmore
This compelling novel, the author’s first, is set in Rome in the late 1630s. It tells the story of an all-consuming affair between Gianlorenzo Bernini, the most celebrated sculptor of the Roman Baroque, and Costanza Piccolomini, a young, beautiful, married, woman. It’s a novel about love, lust, creativity, obsession, loyalty, and betrayal but also about the violence and exploitation, sexual and otherwise, which women endure at the hands of men, amounting in parts to a howl of rage. Blackmore convincingly recreates 17th-century Rome, even then a city which lived under an immense weight of history, with well-drawn period detail while the characters come alive in her hands. The novel’s dark undertow contrasts with its optimistic conclusion: Costanza is used, attacked, and betrayed but, in the end, somehow, survives it all. Renegade Books, £18.99
3
THE INSTRUMENTALIST by Harriet Constable
Harriet Constable’s first novel, set in 18th-century Venice, takes place within the walls of the Ospedale della Pieta, a girls’ orphanage. The heroine, Anna Maria, musically supremely and precociously talented as well as ambitious, is determined to make her mark as a performer and composer. The novel charts her rise to fame, capturing brilliantly the closeted, competitive world of the Pieta’s musical orphans as well as the unrelenting grind of orphanage life. There is a strong sense of the vulnerability of the orphans to exploitation, both sexual and musical. Venice in any era is a gift to a novelist but Constable recreates a city of beauty and disparity, where bejewelled nobles live cheek-by-jowl with the dispossessed and hopeless. If the breathy prose occasionally grates, The Instrumentalist is an engaging novel and a fine debut. Bloomsbury, £16.99
78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Whats-On-V5-TD.indd 78
30/08/2024 10:08
SHOP
E AT
DRINK
P L AY
EN JO Y YEA R - R O UND EV E NT S , P LUS OVE R 1 4 0 S H O P S , B A R S , R ES T A URA NT S A ND ENT ER T A INM ENT VE NUE S
British & international brands
Views from Lift 109
Iconic architecture
@BatterseaPwrStn batterseapowerstation.co.uk Riverside dining
Battersea Power Station.indd 1
19/08/2024 09:51
CULTURE | Books move and change all the time, each other’s North Stars.
BIBLIOFILE
Have attitudes to women’s illnesses changed with modern science?
Statistically, when it comes to retaining those old narratives around hysteria and neurosis, things still look pretty bleak. When I was ill, the relationship between my own body and mind was very nuanced: I began to understand that my brain could affect my symptoms, but my symptoms were by no means ‘all in my head’. In some ways this is the book’s most important message.
Kate Weinberg talks to Belinda Bamber about illness, honesty and pathfinders
What inspired this story? While I was
marooned in an English country cottage during lockdown with long Covid, I was visited by ghosts from the past: ex-boyfriends, relatives I had lost, a disgruntled character from a book I’d never finished. This was the initial spark for Vita’s story. I learned more about falling in love, failures in love and false love with these ‘visitors’, stuck at home, than I did in all my years out in the world. It wasn’t until I started writing about that crazy period of falling in and out of The Pit, that I realised what a creative space it had been.
Vita is the producer of a confessional celebrity podcast and IRL you host one called Shelf Help. Is everyone a product of their stories?
I do feel all the best material comes from digging very deep, or as another author once said to me, ‘putting the pen in the vein’. But something is happening around the idea of ‘trauma’: young people are encouraged to get to grips with suffering that may have tarnished their relationships and quality of life, but it is also a worrying trend to jump on traumatic events as the sole answer to life’s problems.
Why is real-life poet Luigi da Porto a key character, as one of Vita’s ‘ghost’ visitors? Ah,
now this has been a long, long love affair. About 20 years ago, I lived in Verona and became obsessed with this 16th century writer whose novella about Romeo and Juliet is thought to have inspired Shakespeare’s play. I’m fascinated that his ideal of romantic love was born from bitterness and betrayal. He ends up being Vita’s pathfinder, back into the light.
What could help the mental health crisis in the UK? Excellent question! Wouldn’t it be great if,
Is it possible to live in truly honest relationships?
Whether out of tact, love or pragmatism, there are daily compromises we make with being truthful: being polite when someone is boring, praising a bad outfit, inappropriately lunging at someone we find attractive, or refraining from throttling that awful relative. All involve some degree of repression, tongue-biting or self-editing. I think that’s different from cheating, withholding or worst of all, not being yourself in a relationship. Honesty can be a live, imperfect process rather than an absolute measure that we can only fail. Which of your own ghostly bedside ‘visitors’ were you were happiest to see again, when you were bedbound? I was only three when
my mother died of a brain tumour, so I have virtually no memory of her. But I realised she must have experienced something similar to me:
the fear that something was really wrong coupled with a sense of being doubted; how that would have eroded her self-belief. So when I was ill I felt closer to her and what she must have gone through before she died, when she was only a few years older than Vita.
Why is Vita’s inner circle formed of slightly broken people, suffering heartache, grief or trauma? People who have experienced pain and
sadness have the kind of real-life wisdom you need to learn from, to move forward. The sibling relationship between Vita and Gracie is fraught and deeply touching. Do you write from personal experience? Absolutely. I
am one of three sisters, and since our mother died when I was very young we have been, in ways that
S E C O N D
instead of national service, graduates went back into schools to talk to younger kids about mental health? It would also encourage their own process of self-reflection. Advice to young writers? Read a ton and write about the stuff you usually want to hide. Find those nooks and crannies of human experience that AI can’t learn and replicate. Favourite books? I always return to Moon Tiger by Penelope Lively, Le Grand Meaulnes by AlainFournier, and For Esmé with Love and Squalor by JD Salinger. On your bookshelf? Ex-Wife by Ursula Parrott, a 1920s classic; Miranda July’s All Fours should be read close to a fire extinguisher. There’s Nothing Wrong With Her by Kate Weinberg (Bloomsbury £16.99). Read the full interview at countryandtownhouse.com
C H A N C E S
Lucy Barton and Olive Kitteridge find NEW FRIENDSHIP in Elizabeth Strout’s Tell Me Everything (Penguin, £16.99); an abandoned baby in Niall Williams’ Time of the Child offers an unexpected FRESH START in 1962 small-town Ireland (Bloomsbury, £16.99); a woman’s dark past threatens the illusion of her PERFECT FAMILY in Madwoman by Chelsea Bieker (Oneworld, £16.99); A poet finds REDEMPTION from illness through love, in Small Rain by Garth Greenwell (Picador, £18.99); Mai Sennaar’s They Dream in Gold is a ROLLERCOASTER love story set in 1960s jazz age New York, Paris and Rio. (Picador, £16.99) n 80 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Whats-On-V5-TD.indd 80
30/08/2024 10:08
Decorex.indd 1
27/08/2024 10:46
CULTURE | Art The artist has gained a cult following for his large, characterful, emotionally insightful works
HARLAND MILLER
H
arland Miller’s paintings have always been instantly recognisable. With the jolt of a familiar book cover design, and a title that doesn’t seem quite right but that makes you laugh, flinch and definitely look twice, his Penguin Classics and others in his ever-evolving ‘book jacket’ series greet us around the world like old friends. His works combine comforting British design, the aftertaste of his witty one liners (inspired by the mordant temperament of his native Yorkshire) and the sometimes brutally discombobulating experiences of his years working around the world, in Berlin and in New York, before making his name in the London. These days, he has gained many collectors and many more fans. George Michael hung two of his canvases at home (including, in the entrance of his house, Incurable Romantic Seeks Dirty Filthy Whore). Even Rishi Sunak owns a Harland Miller (Rags to Polyester – My Story... in case you’re wondering). ‘When I started the book jacket paintings, the way in which I painted them was to partially evoke the book itself; the feel of the book,’ explains Harland from his remote Norfolk studio, surrounded by books and the ephemera of a lifetime of collecting. ‘I always loved secondhand books; books that were like objects in the world, which had been owned by different people. If you opened them up there was sometimes a dedication on the fly leaf that was incredibly intimate – a little insight into somebody else’s life.’ The ‘International Lonely Guy’, as he nicknamed himself in his formative years, is now 60 but still looks suitably rock and roll. He starts every day swimming half a mile in the bracing North Sea. His home and studio was originally a friar’s house, where he and his family live as though still between Manhattan and the sand and ‘sequestered coast’ of Long Island, where he spent time in the 90s.
Miller’s universe is never going to be a minimalist world. His cavernous studio space includes barns and outbuildings where there’s room for different series to occupy their own physical spaces. As a young artist waiting to hit the big time and find a permanent home, he often carried his stuff around in a black bin bag, but here he has the luxury of space for layers and layers of collections and memories. Poignantly, he also has a stable filled with his late mother and father’s things, too. It’s a heart-breaking task to go through it all. I get a peek at new additions to his ‘Letter Painting’ series, exploring the tough landscape of a vast love and huge loss. In the spring, the second chance he gives discarded old books by recreating them for the viewer, will take on an even richer symbolism, with an exhibition at York Art Gallery. The original was held in 2020, but closed after two weeks due to Covid lockdown. Miller found himself living out one of the tragic stories in the news, unable to do more than deliver care packages to his mother who was hospitalised. Next year, the city will try again to celebrate this star of British art. Harland agreed to do the show once more, but was adamant it couldn’t be the same. Too much has changed in the few years since then. The elusiveness of meaningful connection, always a motif in his work, now seems an even more powerful subject for him. The second version of this show will reopen with a huge body of new work. If this wasn’t enough, he is also writing a highly anticipated real book of memoirs, which Harland Miller’s admirers everywhere will hanker to get hold of, and to hold on to as well. It already has the makings of a classic. Exhibition from 14 March to 31 August 2025, yorkartgallery.org.uk. Harland Miller is represented by White Cube. The artist is releasing a new timelimited silkscreen print edition with Avant Arte in September, with proceeds supporting the Design Museum. Sign up for updates at avantarte.com. n
PHOTOS: © HUGH LAMBERT / WHITE CUBE
Olivia Cole meets Harland Miller, the painter known for his giant, polychromatic canvases
82 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Artists-Studio-V2-AW.indd 82
30/08/2024 09:58
Royal Academy.indd 1
19/08/2024 17:46
PR O M OT I O N The Christmas Cotswold Fair has unique gifts for all your loved ones
THE COUNTDOWN IS ON…
T
hough summer feels like it was only yesterday, our favourite time of the year is just around the corner – Christmas, the ultimate time for gathering with friends, sharing gifts and enjoying delicious food. And where better to start getting into the Christmas spirit than the stalwart of festivities at the Christmas Cotswold Fair (11-14 November). Held in support of national children’s charity WellChild, known for its incredible work giving seriously ill children, young people and their families across the UK the best chance to thrive, the Fair welcomes over 220 stalls from across the UK and beyond, selling everything you and your loved ones could ever want this Christmas. What’s more, the 2024 Christmas Cotswold Fair will be taking place in its new home within the estate of Todenham Manor Farm. Nestled between the wellWHAT’S known market town Moreton-in-Marsh and quaint NEW FOR 2024 Todenham village, Todenham Manor Farm estate is set amidst the beautiful rolling Cotswold hills with 1 Complimentary workshops views for miles. and cookery In addition to the myriad of incredible stalls, demonstrations* there’s an unmatched selection of demonstrations, 2 Hard-standing exclusive workshops, celebrity author book parking* signings (including the Cotswolds’ own Kaleb 3 Festive Feasting Cooper), author ‘meet and greets’, the Festive 4 Café hosted by Feasting area, hard standing parking* and of The Potted Goose Pub Co course, the ultra-luxurious Cotswold Grey VIP Lounge, with handmade canapés and delicious 5 Pooky Artisan Gallery dishes from the esteemed Potted Goose Pub Co. 6 VIP area hosted ‘What a Fair it is set to be,’ says its organiser Lucy by Cotswold Grey Greaves. ‘The Christmas Cotswold Fair truly marks 7 Luxury meet the beginning of Christmas, and we are so excited & greet area, and to showcase our incredible offering at Todenham central coffee bar hosted by Manor Farm this year. With over 220 stalls, 40 percent Bohemia Canvas of which are brand new, there really is something
for everyone. Now in our 39th year, we continue to be so proud to support WellChild, and help to make a difference to children and families around the country. We can’t wait to welcome stallholders and visitors in November for the ultimate festive shopping experience all in aid of the worthiest of causes.’ WellChild is also excited to be working with the Christmas Cotswold Fair again. ‘With the number of children and young people living with complex medical needs growing year-on-year, the Fair has become critical in raising the funds needed for WellChild to give these children and families the best chance to thrive at home instead of hospital,’ said Matt James, Chief Executive of the charity. ‘We look forward to an even brighter and even more festive Christmas Cotswold Fair within the estate of Todenham Manor Farm this year.’ BOOK IT: Early bird tickets on sale now, £18; general sale from 1 October, £20. cotswoldfair.com; supported by Knight Frank. wellchild.org.uk
* PLEASE ENSURE TO BOOK IN ADVANCE FOR HARD STANDING PARKING AND ALL DEMONSTRATIONS AND WORKSHOPS
The Christmas Cotswold Fair is the perfect way to kick off the festive season
84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Christmas-Cotswold-Fair-V2-TD.indd 84
30/08/2024 12:38
Skills | CULTURE
Performance
ANXIETY Conquer your fears, learn a new skill and have great fun all at the same time says Caroline Phillips
1
HAVING A LAUGH
Want to become a stand-up comedian in a week? Then join a group of (mostly) comedy virgins in a classroom adjoining an Islington pub. You’ll be tutored superbly by Dec Munro, an ex-Cambridge Footlights award-winning director-cum-comedic hero – who’s coached students to Hollywood actors and the unemployed to billionaires in the art of being funny. You can’t be taught a sense of humour, but you can learn a lot at this London ‘joke school’. Enough to end the course by performing with gusto at the friendly showcase in front of 70 strangers. BOOK IT: Five-day intensive beginner’s course, £450. angelcomedy.co.uk/courses
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
2
OFF THE CUFF
Remember Whose Line is it Anyway? Improv is about spontaneously creating theatre by listening and responding unscripted: establishing location (if someone’s milking a cow, assume a farm) and building characters (from tarot reader to marine biologist), their relationships and unplanned dialogue. Meeting weekly in a central London school, teacher Mandeep Singh insists that there are no mistakes. ‘You don’t have to be funny, clever or quick,’ we repeat on his instruction. The humour comes from the situation. It’s great not thinking twice, always saying yes, being impulsive, allowing the group to create something bigger than its parts. It’s impossible to worry about anything as you jump like a gnat on amphetamine from scene to scene. It’s brilliant for shyness, innovation, creativity and public speaking. And such fun. BOOK IT: Eight-week course (two hours per week), £220. hooplaimpro.com
3
CLOWNING AROUND
Wanna run away to the circus? Or to become a self-employed clown? Magic, stilt walking, juggling, acrobatics and being idiotic your thing? Any self-respecting clown will tell you that it takes at least a year to learn all those clowning skills – from timing, character development, physical comedy to improvisation. Hollywood is clown school central while genius Sacha Baron Cohen trained with the renowned French clown Philippe Gaulier. But you can pick up a lot in London or online with clown prof Jon Davison of London Clown School. He’ll teach you to generate ideas, create and structure material. And how to perform. Best of all, you’ll uncover what’s unique and funny about you. Your wildest, most fun, crazy (and vulnerable) self. Then stick on a red nose – and roll on those birthday parties, carnivals and church fetes. BOOK IT: Courses from £130. jondavison.net n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 85
Courses-V4-PBLC.indd 85
30/08/2024 09:59
CULTURE | Sustainability Bianca on stage at Change Now, a world expo of solutions for the planet
LITTLE GREEN BOOK
W
hen Bianca Pitt came to the UK at the age of 28 to explore her mother’s homeland, she was amazed, she says, what a ‘green and pleasant land’ it was. It was only years later, at a dinner for the NGO PlantLife, that the Austrian began to realise that because fields were green didn’t mean they were healthy. About 98 percent of our wildflower meadows, she learnt, had been transformed by crops or pasture. ‘And without them, there’s no nectar for the insects. Without insects there’s nothing to pollinate crops or feed the birds. Take away flowers and what you have is a destroyed environment.’ Wanting to make a change, ten years ago she and her English husband bought an old Sussex farmhouse and began to plant wildflowers. She invested in a local organic farm, growing organic veg, alongside pigs and cows. And every day she set aside time to read and learn. The more she read, she says, ‘the more I realised we were heading for a potentially a collapse of our civilisation, which was a pretty challenging shock. I had just given birth to a child and to see her world was in peril made me realise my job had to be using my efforts and network and contacts trying to avert disaster.’ Working at ClientEarth, the world’s largest not-for-profit environmental law firm, and on the boards of environmental charities, she soon discovered that not only were our world’s systems unsustainable – ‘fashion, finance, food, energy, transport, all of it’ – but that there
were very few women in any organisations that could effect change. So she set up her own network of women who might be willing to help to fix the planet. And, when in 2020 one of them, the ecologist Antoinette Vermilye, noticed that, of UK’s COP delegation, not one was female and ‘governments and leadership didn’t understand the relevance of why it was important’, they wrote a letter calling for a 50-50 split of men and women in the COP27 leadership team. And SHE Changes Climate was born. Having women at the table, she explains, is important not only because we make up 50 percent
of the planet and still only a quarter of the world’s parliamentarians. It’s because it is women who are disproportionately impacted by climate change. In most parts of the world, women are still responsible for children, food, water and looking after the elderly. So when drought comes, or cities are flooded by rising seas, they bear the brunt of the calamitous conditions – particularly in the global south ‘where they not only have the extreme weather, but they don’t have the insurance we have, the social security or a proper roof. So they are not prepared at all for the terrible effects of climate change.’ Having these under-represented women at the table completely changes policy-making, Pitt says. Nations with more women in parliament are more likely to take action on critical environmental issues, adopt more stringent climate policies and have lower emissions. And, given the rate at which are planet is heating up, we need those sorts of changes fast. ‘And that’s not going to happen until we have women in the mix... taking down the old world is hard for men, as they built it.’ What our planet needs is a 50-50 leadership of men and women, she says. ‘If you were going to sail the seas, would you do it with a patch over one eye? No, you would want full vision – particularly if you were navigating choppy waters. Not having women in the room is like having a patch, or a blindspot. You see only one half of the world.’ shechangesclimate.org n
PHOTOS: © GREGOIRE DELANOS/LA HUTTE STUDIO
Bianca Pitt left her job to help solve the climate crisis. On the way, she has brought women from around the world into the conversation, says Lisa Grainger
86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Little-Green-Book-V5-TD.indd 86
30/08/2024 10:04
Art | CULTURE
The EXHIBITIONIST
Kick off your autumn cultural calendar at the new Van Gogh exhibition, says Ed Vaizey
N
owhere does countryside quite like the great British countryside. But if you need a break from your regular visits to your Cotswold spa, nip down to the National Gallery to see how the French (or rather Dutch) do it. The National Gallery, nestled in the heart of Trafalgar Square, is poised to celebrate its 200th anniversary with an extraordinary exhibition dedicated to the enigmatic Vincent Van Gogh. There are more than 60 pictures, including two Sunflowers – one from the National’s collection, another from Philadelphia. There are also some 14 drawings to remind you what a wonderful draughtsman he was. No wonder the National itself calls this a once-in-a-century exhibition. Blockbuster doesn’t do it justice. The exhibition opens with a celestial masterpiece: Starry Night Over the Rhône (1888). Van Gogh’s nocturnal vision captures the shimmering reflection of stars on the water, while two lovers stand on the riverbank, their silhouettes merging with the cosmic dance above. It’s a canvas that invites contemplation, a poetic ode to the universe and human connection. The Yellow House (1888) transports us to Arles, where Van Gogh rented a sun-drenched abode for six months. It has come to epitomise his time in Arles, a place he visited to escape the bustle of Paris. The vibrant yellow façade, contrasting with the azure sky, symbolises hope and artistic fervour. Punters can almost feel the Mediterranean breeze as they explore this iconic work. Van Gogh’s palette evolved during his time in Arles and Saint-Rémy. Inspired by poets like Walt Whitman and Charles Baudelaire, he sought to express emotions through colour. His sunflowers burst forth like verses, each petal a syllable of joy. His cypress trees sway rhythmically, whispering secrets to the wind. Born in 1853, Van Gogh’s artistic journey began late. He experimented with various professions before dedicating himself fully to art in his late 20s. Early works were somber, reflecting his empathy for the working class. However, his move to southern France in 1888 ignited a creative explosion. Influenced by light and the vivid colours of Provence, his signature style emerged. Bold brush-strokes, swirling impasto (thick paint application), and unconventional perspectives became his hallmarks. Sunflowers, swirling Starry Nights, and serene Irises are just a few of his iconic works. Van Gogh poured his emotions onto the canvas, transforming landscapes and still lifes into expressions of his inner world. He painted with a passion bordering on frenzy, a characteristic some link to his well-documented struggles with mental illness.
FROM ABOVE: Self-Portrait (1889) by Vincent Van Gogh © National Gallery of Art, Washington; Sunflowers (1888), by Vincent Van Gogh © The National Gallery, London
Despite his challenges, Van Gogh produced an astonishing amount of art in a short period. He created roughly 2,100 artworks, including 860 oil paintings, most concentrated in his final two years. Tragically, he died by suicide in 1890 at the age of 37. Though commercially unsuccessful during his lifetime, Van Gogh’s work gained recognition posthumously. Today, his paintings fetch record-breaking sums, and his influence is undeniable. From Expressionism to Fauvism, Van Gogh’s bold colours and emotional rawness paved the way for modern art movements. His legacy lives on, inspiring artists and captivating audiences with his timeless masterpieces. Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers at the National Gallery, London. 14 September to 19 January 2025. nationalgallery.org.uk n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 87
The-Exhibitionist-V3-TD.indd 87
30/08/2024 10:06
The C H Y P Fragrance Family
Fragrance Foundation.indd 1
R
É
30/08/2022 10:31
News | CULTURE I CAN SEA CLEARLY NOW The South Australian Research and Development Institute has thought up a novel way to capture images of the ocean floor: fitting sea lions with cameras and trackers. The animals can access out-of-reach habitats more effectively than traditional survey vessels – and provide unprecedented access to the view of an ocean predator. From the research, they were better able to understand the favoured habitats of these cute pinnipeds, allowing conversationists to protect these areas.
GOOD NEWS
Tessa Dunthorne has some cheerful updates from around the world FEMALE AFGHAN MEDICS FINISH DEGREES
PHOTOS:GETTY IMAGES
HAUNTING SIGHTS
Meet Britain’s rarest plant: the Ghost Orchid, which has been rediscovered for the first time in 15 years. The find was made by Richard Bate, an avid amateur botanist. The pallid plant only emerges in the deepest dark of woodlands and relies on nutrients from subterranean fungal partners. But if you want to visit it, you’re out of luck. The orchid, considered the ‘holy grail for botanists’, has been confirmed by the Botanical Society of Britain and Ireland but the location is being kept secret to protect the delicate plant.
Following a threeyear campaign by the parents of Linda Norgrove, an aid worker killed in Afghanistan, 19 trainee female medics have arrived in Scotland to finish their medical degrees. After the Taliban returned to power in 2021, higher education for women was banned indefinitely. The medics have been given places at four medical schools, with the law changed to treat them as home students eligible for free tuition.
IT’S BEEN A WHILE, CROCODILE
The critically endangered Siamese crocodile has new hope: 60 eggs have hatched in the wild in the Cambodia Cardamom National Park – the largest record of this species breeding in the wild this century. This breed of crocodile is one of the world’s rarest, and its wild population has previously been estimated at around 400. The government and conservation charity Fauna & Flora have worked with local partners to strengthen these population numbers for the past 24 years; these hatchlings mean the work has paid off. July /August 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 89
Good-News-V2-AW.indd 89
30/08/2024 10:02
CULTURE | News
WATER, WATER, EVERY WHERE
A small handheld object developed by Californian startup Atoco might be the solution to water scarcity. The device works by gathering water molecules from the surrounding air before condensing the vapour back into liquid. It requires no electricity and produces ultrapure water with just ambient sunlight in even the most arid conditions. It is expected to have no carbon footprint. We’ll drink to that.
IF IT’S BROKE
Broken hairdryer? No problem – London will see three more ‘fixing factories’ open soon. These spaces have a trifold function: individuals can donate broken electronics, and volunteers will attempt a repair on the object, which then is given to local charities; they run repair events to train communities to repair their own gear; and they provide a bookable repair service. Two sites already exist in Camden and Brent, and have diverted three tonnes of e-waste from landfill, saving 53 tonnes of CO2.
BRAIN WAVES
A new treatment for Parkinson’s shows promise in clinical trials. The treatment uses brain implants that adjust electrical stimulus in real time in areas that control movement, which eases motor symptoms. The trial, conducted at the University of California San Francisco, found this reactive deep brain stimulation reduced motor symptoms by half compared to traditional brain implants. Take this with a pinch of salt, though; the trial involved only four individuals. Nonetheless, this is a major step towards treating Parkinson’s more effectively.
VENICE PRESERVED
Non-profit organisation Save Venice has recently completed an 18-year long restoration of the Church of San Sebastiano, a 16th century masterpiece. The organisation has been restoring historic artworks and buildings since 1971, and provides grants for work that advances Venetian scholarship. To date it has conserved 2,000 artworks. n
PHOTOS:GETTY IMAGES
POWERED BY SUNSHINE Oxford University brains have developed a new solar cell so thin it could be applied to everyday objects – potentially revolutionising solar technology and reducing our need for bulky silicon panels. The solar cell works by coating different objects; in theory, you might be able to coat a backpack, car or mobile phone to generate electricity throughout the day. The cell has 27 percent solar efficiency (meaning it converts 27 percent of the energy in sunlight) versus a traditional panel which only has 22 percent. It can be applied to almost any surface, and researchers believe that it will reduce the cost of solar, making it more globally achievable.
90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | July /August 2024
Good-News-V2-AW.indd 90
30/08/2024 10:02
For our mothers, for our fathers, for our KYN. At KYN, our homes are designed with our own family in mind. Each day invites joy, comfort and independence, supporting residents to live their best lives no matter their age. A care home we’d be proud to choose for our own. More information about our homes in Bickley and Hurlingham, as well as our upcoming residences in Kensington and other London locations, can be found via the QR code.
4th Floor, 192 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9QX
KYN.indd 1
+44 (0) 20 3946 7694
23/08/2024 09:57
CULTURE | Conservation
The POSITIVE DISRUPTOR What happened to nature in the election? asks James Wallace
THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW
Get climate change back on the political agenda
A
s newly crowned Olympic gold medallists and keen advocates for the environment, British rowers Imogen Grant (an ambassador for The Rivers Trust) and Emily Craig epitomise grit, integrity, and a deep understanding that without a healthy natural environment – in their case, rivers and lakes – they have nothing. But with a conspicuous absence of climate and nature in recent political events, where did these values go in the general election? Rewind to July and we saw the colour of MP seats across the country change, with polls showing that voters care about nature and health, choosing politicians who committed to ending the sewage crisis. This was well reported, and a welcome indication of the depth of understanding and engagement that allowing profiteering corporations to pollute must stop. However, none of the three main parties said anything substantive about the biggest threat to our economy, health, livelihoods and lives: imminent climate breakdown and the collapse of ecosystems. Yes, there was a nod to the odd renewable energy or woodland scheme but it was as if the country had forgotten that we are on the cusp of irreversible failure of everything we hold dear. Aided and abetted by the media, banal TV debates, dumbed-down newspapers and soundbite social posts floated in a vacuum filled with frankly irrelevant issues founded on the trend for divisive nationalist populism and short-termism. This was epitomised by the hateful way we treat asylum-seekers
and immigrants, and the insane quest for growth (AKA wealth) in a finite and impoverished world, reflected in the frightening rise of far-right politics. Global scientific consensus on the impact of climate and nature is not up for debate. It’s happening everywhere, all at once. Throwing a few wind turbines and trees at it will not build the necessary resilience to extreme floods, droughts and storms. Together, they will cause food and water shortages, destroy our infrastructure and spread diseases, resulting in catastrophic loss of life and mass migration that we can’t even imagine. While we sit pretty watching the inhabitants of desertified regions twist in turmoil under the constant threat of starvation, war, homelessness and poverty, we would be wise to consider how we might be greeted when it’s our turn to ask our neighbours for help… The shocking 400C recorded in my courtyard in 2022 will soon become normal, as will this year’s seemingly endless rainfall and crop failures. Humans, including Brits with or without the grit, cannot live in this new hothouse world without adapting everything we do, starting today. If, like our sporting heroes Imogen and Emily, you have woken up to the ecological and meteorological nightmare unfolding around us, then we might hope the new government is hiding its environmental light under their bushel and are preparing for the big reveal. Nothing short of political commitment to urgent systemic change will save the natural world and stabilise the climate we depend on.
STAND UP Be a peaceful protestor like the thousands of anglers, doctors, financiers, footballers, professors, rockers and rowers on the March for Clean Water on 26 October. marchforcleanwater.org JOIN UP Take action on the climate and nature crisis with 20 million members of the Climate Coalition. theclimatecoalition.org
NATURE ECONOMICS Swot up on the impact of loss of nature with the Economics of Biodiversity: Dasgupta Review. gov.uk PRESSURE Remind the government of its election commitments and ask your local MP for their plans. labour.org.uk/change BE CLIMATE-LITERATE If in doubt about the urgency of climate breakdown, read the WMO’s latest report. wmo.int/publication-series/ state-of-global-climate-2023 n
PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; GETTY
Climate was MIA in the polling booth in the 2024 general election
92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
The-Conservationist-V3-AB.indd 92
30/08/2024 10:05
crazy
That’s what they called us when we started making mattresses and championing natural, organic, and sustainable materials in 1999. 25 years on, who’s crazy now? Today, people demand the best of both. What’s good for us should also be good for our planet. And what we choose to sleep on should be no different. Thankfully, there’s never been a choice at Naturalmat; and our uncompromising pursuit of better, healthier, and more natural sleep will never rest.
organic. local. sustainable.
Naturalmat.indd 1 NM1030 Country Town House FP 225x298mm.indd 1
London | Knutsford | Cotswolds | Devon
08/08/2024 14:26 26/07/2024 08:32
CULTURE | Innovation
The SOLUTIONISTS Matilda Cox on three innovations reviving the great British countryside
THE PROBLEM
Matilda Cox is Content Editor at Springwise, a leading global innovation platform. springwise.com
1
THE ANSWERS Regenerative grazing to revive grassland
Grazing cattle have been a part of the British countryside for millennia and these animals can play an important role in preserving grassland ecosystems and getting rid of unwanted plants and weeds. But over-grazing is becoming more and more common, meaning the land doesn’t get a chance to regrow and eventually degrades. UK agritech Pastoral AI wants to change that. Using the startup’s system, which involves solar-powered GPS sensors, farmers can accurately track the location of a herd and where it’s eaten. That way, farmers know when it’s time to move cattle to a new spot, allowing grazed land and biodiversity to regenerate. pastoral.ai
2
Fungi boosts tree-planting
When we think of British wildlife, it’s probably squirrels and blackbirds that spring to mind. But what about what’s going on under our feet? Edinburgh-based startup Rhizocore Technologies recognises just how important soil health is to overall biodiversity. Without the mycorrhizal support network, a system of fungi in the soil, trees can’t share essential nutrients and water and therefore won’t grow. To restore woodland, Rhizocore is giving this underground ‘woodwide web’ a boost. It turns locally sourced fungi into pellets that are planted alongside saplings, to give new trees the best chance to grow and thrive. rhizocore.com
2
3
Plant food made from air pollution
Carbon dioxide and methane might be the most abundant greenhouse gases but there’s another gas wreaking havoc with the ozone layer: nitrous oxide. This gas, which is generated during various agricultural practices, has a global warming potential 300 times higher than CO2 over 100 years. Lincoln startup Crop Intellect wants to put this gas to good use and convert it into fertiliser. The company does this using R-Leaf, a formula that contains photocatalytic particles suspended in a liquid. When sprayed onto plants, R-Leaf uses sunlight to transform the pollution into nitrate that then nourishes the crops. cropintellect.co.uk n
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
The countryside is as much a part of Britain’s national identity as our literature, language, and royal family – from the rolling hills of the South Downs to the Yorkshire Dales. These green spaces, whether farmed fields or wild woodland, make up over 90 percent of the island’s total land area. That figure might paint a picture of a thriving natural environment, but the UK is considered one of the world’s most naturedepleted countries, with one in six species threatened with extinction. And as the planet warms, it puts extra pressure on struggling vegetation and dwindling animal populations. Luckily, initiatives like the UK government’s ‘30 By 30’ – a target to conserve at least 30 percent of our land and sea for biodiversity by 2030 – aim to reverse this trend. But ambition isn’t enough, and these startups are here to bring these targets to fruition.
1
94 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
The-Solutionists-V3-TD.indd 94
30/08/2024 10:07
Countryside Love it. Live it. Breathe it. Love it. Since 1993, 1993, we’ve combined innovation Since innovation with with tradition and and elegant elegant styles tradition styles with with premium premium fabrics to to make make the the best best clothing fabrics clothing for for those those who share share our our passion passion for who for country country life. life.
schoffelcountry.com schoffelcountry.com
Schoffel.indd 1
22/08/2024 17:19
CULTURE | Motoring MERCEDES G580 WITH EQ TECHNOLOGY Price £180,860 Battery 116kWh, 4 motors Range 270 miles Power 579bhp 0-62mph 4.7 seconds Top Speed 112mph Streaming He Ain’t Heavy, He’s My Brother – The Hollies
The GREEN LANE
Few cars pack a punch like the legendary G-Wagen - and now it’s powered by batteries. Jeremy Taylor drives the electrified off-roader
B
oxy, butch and brutal – Mercedes’ flagship SUV boasts a rough and tumble image that dates back 45 years. Originally a military vehicle, the G-Class then bulldozed onto the streets to become an automotive icon. Arnold Schwarzenegger, Megan Fox, Kanye and Kim Kardashian have all owned a Geländewagen, commonly known as the G-Wagen. Unstoppable in the dirt, this 4x4 has also starred in many blockbuster films. Fiendishly powerful, the G-Wagen was always loaded with heavyweight petrol or diesel engines – until now. Mercedes has just stolen the march on luxury SUV rivals by launching an all-electric version that’s both capable and compelling. Thanks to an electric motor on each wheel, a host of computer technology and no less than four gearboxes, the mighty G is especially good when ploughing across the countryside. There’s little to differentiate the new electric version from combustion engine models, which continue to be sold in the UK. Look closer, however, and the bodywork does feature ‘electric’ blue trim strips to highlight its eco credentials. Mercedes has also made modest aerodynamic tweaks to help this monster slice more easily through the wind. The rock-solid, upright stance is what gives the G-Wagen so much appeal – it certainly wasn’t designed in a wind tunnel! Elsewhere, a pair of subtle rear vents help the doors close easier by releasing air pressure inside the cabin, while the electric charging cable is neatly stored in a slimmed down spare wheel case,
hanging from the rear door. Step up into the cockpit and the biggest change is a huge 12.3-inch infotainment screen. An extra pair of screens can be specified in the rear, although they intrude on passenger space. The Burmester sound system is standard, while the rash of silver trim feels more bling than luxury. G-Wagen is famous for a rorty V8 exhaust note, so Mercedes had to find a way to add that experience to the electric version. In Comfort drive mode, G-Roar pumps a gentle engine sound into the cabin via speakers, which elevates to a raucous blast in Sport. On the road, it’s refined and comfortable, a high-rise driving position offering excellent, all-round visibility. Off-road, despite the extra weight of batteries, the Mercedes is imperious, thanks to the motors on each wheel, which helps maintains traction and forward momentum Those same motors also give the car a special party trick. The G-Turn function allows the wheels to be turned in opposite directions, sending the G-Wagen spinning on the spot. Pointless but head-turning all the same. Luxury alternatives include the BMW X5 and Porsche Cayenne, although not even the long-serving Range Rover is such a unique piece of kit as the Mercedes. Hand-built in Austria, the G-Wagen has a special appeal that now extends to those looking for a more sustainable off-road machine.
IN THE BOOT 1 BOXING CLEVER Resurgent Stanley’s classic stainless steel food carrier is a style icon to show on the go. Stanley 9.5L lunch box, £92.99. uk.stanley1913.com 2 CAMERA READY Cut from raffia and smooth tan leather, this cool case is perfect for keeping a camera safe on the move. Aspinal Crossbody Bag, £350. aspinaloflondon.com 3 TRIKE-TASTIC! This new electric folding tricycle stores comfortably in a car. On and off-road versions available. Jorvik Elite Jet-E16, £2,999. jorviktricycles.com
RATING: ★★★★
96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Cars-V3-TD.indd 96
30/08/2024 09:59
Oliver Brown.indd 1
30/08/2024 11:17
CULTURE | Interview
Charlotte Metcalf talks to Giles Deacon about his glittering career in fashion and new creative partnership with Purdey
IN BRIEF COUNTRY COTTAGE OR PENTHOUSE?
I’d love a cottage in the Lake District where I grew up, with mountains and quite bleak weather conditions. DOG OR CAT?
I have two Pomeranians. COUNTRY PUB OR MICHELIN STAR?
Probably a country pub – I like The Milbank Arms near Richmond in north Yorkshire. WINE OR TEA?
Tea, jasmine or lapsang souchong. SMART TAILORING OR COUNTRY CASUALS?
Classic country casuals.
G
PORTRAIT BY ALEXANDRA DAO
iles Deacon’s career has been so prodigious and varied that it’s difficult to know where to start the conversation except at the beginning. He’s lived in Paris and Milan, and today lives and works in London, but he retains strong roots in the Lake District. ‘I was lucky to grow up near Ullswater at a time when you could vanish from eight in the morning till eight at night in an idyllic, bucolic environment,’ he says. ‘It gave me a natural perspective which I’ve gone on to utilise and develop in my designs.’ His aesthetic sense developed further at school in Barnard Castle in County Durham. ‘We were next to The Bowes Museum so sometimes went there for English or History lessons. It was pretty inspirational learning about Henry VIII surrounded by Canalettos, but it was going to art college and then to London that really had an impact on my creative process. ‘In 1989 I went to Saint Martins with Alexander McQueen, Luella Bartley and Katie Grand, friends who went on to great careers,’ he continues. ‘It was the best time, a knock on from the sixties and seventies when Saint Martins was still very much an art school with an emphasis on selfdevelopment. I absolutely found my feet as a designer. I felt so lucky to be in such a brilliant, healthily competitive, creative environment. I’d always known I wanted to do something creative but I wasn’t one of those people who, aged four, admired my grandmother’s style and longed to be in fashion.’ One of Giles’ external tutors was the artist Richard Nott, later one half of Workers for Freedom. He suggested Giles show his portfolio to ‘a gentleman in Florence’ – Tom Ford, who’d just moved to Gucci. ‘I hadn’t even graduated at this point,’ remembers Giles, ‘but I was lucky enough to get some work in London.’ From there Giles worked for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in Paris, returning to London in 1994. ‘It was an exciting time to be back. My friends were working for Dazed & Confused in Old Street and new galleries like Sadie Coles were opening up. I started freelancing here, in Milan and in New York, doing jobs ranging from illustration to making props for TV, getting lots of experience in different worlds.’ Katie Grand then asked him to work with her reinvigorating Bottega Veneta. They did that for four seasons until it was bought out by Gucci. After a stint at Gucci with Tom Ford, Giles felt he had enough know-how to set up
his own business. He introduced his first collection at the end of 2003 to a rapturous response and went on to show at London Fashion Week every year until 2016, when he decided to focus on couture and private clients. I interrupt Giles to remind him just how many prizes he’s won, including Best New Designer at British Fashion Week 2004, the 2006 British Fashion Council Fashion Forward Award and the French ANDAM Fashion Award Grand Prix and GQ Designer of the Year Award, both in 2009. Yet he modestly waves these aside. ‘I’m not being self-deprecating but can we just talk about the work? That’s always the most important thing.’ He’s excited about his latest role as creative director for the legendary gun-maker Purdey, overseeing clothing and accessories. ‘Growing up in the countryside I was always familiar with Purdey and I’ve always loved visiting all those iconic stores like Lock or John Lobb in their exquisite Mayfair properties. I did a consultancy with a very prominent European ski brand a few years ago and what appealed to me was all the technical knowledge from that I can bring to outdoor clothing. Very respectfully moving certain aspects of the heritage brand forward while keeping to those timeless countryside codes is something I’ll very much enjoy, building the ultimate country wardrobe that’s both elegant and functional.’ Giles is no newcomer to collaboration, most recently designing wallpapers and fabrics for Sanderson. ‘I’ve always relished the opportunity to use the very best British fabrics, like those Suffolk weavers and printers that do the kind of exquisite handwork that aren’t found anywhere else. Take Stephen Walters & Sons that’s been going 300 years and Gainsborough silk weavers who’ve been making fabrics for embassies and royal palaces all over the world for over 100 years. At Purdey, I’ll continue work with the best manufacturers and materials, sourcing tweed, wool and cashmere from suppliers from Scotland to Somerset and afar. ‘Saint Martins made me realise what I wanted to do within my own practice, which is to make exceptional, beautiful, timeless pieces. So, yes, I’m a fashion designer but my clothes are not about fashion.’ It should come as no surprise that some of Giles’ pieces are in permanent collections at the V&A and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. So, what next? ‘For now, and 30 years after leaving Saint Martins, I just feel privileged being able to bring my designs to an iconic brand like Purdey,’ he says. n
98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Scarfes-Bar-V3-KB.indd 98
30/08/2024 10:09
Thirty years after graduating from Central Saint Martins, Giles Deacon is a leading light in British fashion and design
Scarfes-Bar-V3-KB.indd 99
30/08/2024 10:09
TINKER TAILOR
Jacket and trousers Stella McCartney Shoes Manolo Blahnik Aikon Automatic Rose watch Maurice Lacroix Juste un Clou earrings in 18ct white gold Cartier
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 100
30/08/2024 12:13
SUCH A PULLOVER
Jumper, skirt and boots Louis Vuitton Juste un Clou earrings in 18ct white gold Cartier
VIVA
forever
Wardrobe classics to see you through season after season FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID REISS
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 101
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 101
30/08/2024 12:13
ON THE OUTSIDE
Dress, coat, shoes and bag Max Mara
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 102
30/08/2024 12:13
JEAN MACHINE
Denim jumpsuit Zimmermann Shoes Manolo Blahnik Torsadé necklace in yellow gold and Macri Classica earrings in yellow gold and brilliant cut diamonds Buccellati
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 103
30/08/2024 12:13
BACK TO BLACK
Skirt, jacket, bra, shoes Dolce & Gabbana Tights Wolford Move Link earrings in 18ct yellow gold and diamonds Messika
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 104
30/08/2024 12:13
JUST DO YOUR VEST Vest, trousers, shoes Michael Kors Tank Française watch Cartier
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 105
30/08/2024 12:13
BOHO CHIC
Dress Chloé Boots Tod’s Macri Classica earrings in white and yellow gold with brilliant cut diamonds Buccellati
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 106
30/08/2024 12:13
PRINTS PERFECT
Coat and jumper Dior Juste un Clou bracelet and Love earrings Cartier TEAM Make-up: Adam de Cruz @ One Represents using Laura Mercier Hair: Sven Bayerbach @ Carol Hayes Management using Color Wow Nails: Christie Huseyin using Chanel Le Vernis in Organdi Photographer’s Assistant: Stefania Carli Fashion Assistant: Ella McKiernan Model: Noa @ Established
Accessories-Shoot-V4-TD.indd 107
30/08/2024 12:13
SHOWGIRL
LUCY CLELAND asks the Today programme’s most recent recruit, Emma Barnett, how does she do it all?
T
he voice I often wake up listening to is not that of my husband’s but rather the lilting Mancunian strains of Emma Barnett, the BBC’s latest whipsmart recruit for its flagship Radio 4 current affairs show, Today. Emma, who is known for her no-nonsense, laser-focused interview technique and an ability to hold an occasionally agonising silence as she waits for a squirming MP to answer a direct question, is having the most unparalleled broadcast career. Not yet 40 and already having put in three years on the BBC’s hallowed Woman’s Hour, as well as stints on LBC, BBC 5 Live and a Newsnight presenting role – she now gets up at 3.30am at least twice a week to wrestle with politicians and others, with the ears of around 5.5 million listeners tuning in. And all this without coffee: ‘I’ve never liked it; I wish I did,’ she smiles. We meet locally, near her home in Herne Hill, south London, at Brockwell Lido for a cuppa (tea, natch), early on a Monday morning, the day after Joe Biden dropped out of the US presidential election. I’m bursting to know whether she wishes she was on air right now, instead of talking to me. She barely bats an eyelid. ‘I think when you’re a news person, you have to be good at compartmentalising,’ she explains. ‘Because you aren’t the news. The news is the news. How you present the news, how you bring yourself to it, how you share it for other people, is your signature.’ That’s told me. So I get her on a day off, although – and we’ll come to this – it strikes me that Emma rarely actually has a day off, so industrious is her output. Sitting here in front of me, she is as she appears to be on air – sunny, interested, relaxed, curious, kind, funny, focused – and striking in the flesh with her mane of blonde hair, trademark glasses (from The Eye Company in Soho) and megawatt smile. And she needn’t be. It is well-documented that Emma has been through – and still endures – the most crippling dual conditions of endometriosis and adenomyosis. The first-person piece she wrote for The Times Magazine in May 2022 talked frankly about how the extraordinarily painful conditions had impacted on her ability to conceive – she now has two children, a boy (six) and a girl (19 months), but not without seven rounds of IVF and three tormenting years of trying. The feature opened the floodgates on a subject that was previously little talked about – and prompted her to start her own Substack, entitled Trying, which has recently relaunched after a brief hiatus. ‘The word “trying” is a big part of my life,’ says Emma, who is keen on putting women’s health in the spotlight (and is thinking about writing another book on the subject. Her first Period. It’s About Bloody Time was published in 2019). But for now she wants a vehicle where she can share her thoughts on ‘trying’, however that comes up for people. ‘I just think life is trying,’ she says. ‘There’s a lot of different things that people are attempting or conversations I’ll have with somebody – which I think should be captured in a slightly different way, which other people will find interesting or useful. I’ve interviewed more than a thousand people now; I’ve been on air for 17 years and I speak to, on average, 25 to 40 people a week, so there’s a lot of ideas running through me. I think I can capture some of that and share it in a good way.’
Emma herself is ‘trying’ out playing with what she eats to see how that impacts her own health. ‘I’ve been finding some results with diet,’ she says. ‘Just restricting the hours that I’m eating in to try to reduce inflammation.’ This might sound like the wellness warrior behaviour you find all over Instagram, but for Emma, it’s pretty new. ‘I’m a proper bon viveur, I want to be at lunch for a long time, and I love a drink, all of that,’ she laughs. ‘Even with the IVF, I refused to change how I ate because I was like, “I’m here for the cold hard science of this.”’ Does she find it difficult? ‘Yeah, I do, but equally, I have to counsel myself with the fact that I’ve had 40 years of chips and whatever I want to eat. That’s a good innings.’ Giving up chips aside, how does motherhood work with her demanding schedule? ‘I’m just learning how to be who I’m meant to be in each part of the day,’ she says. ‘And it’s not perfect. The hardest thing is actually coming in and out of family mode because when I go in, I really want to go in. I feel worse when I’m trying to do both.’ Family time must be important to Emma, because one of her latest endeavours is launching a business with her husband, Jeremy Weil, whom she first met at Nottingham University. Colour Your Streets are colouring books for adults and kids that focus on hyper-local areas, so rather than general London landmarks, for example, people can really engage with the streets and sites they know and love around them. Naturally, the first one they produced was for Herne Hill. Now they’re up to 88 books, ranging from Balham to York, via Hull and Haringay – and have grown enough not to have to stuff them in envelopes and post them from home anymore. ‘It was my husband who came up with the idea,’ she says. ‘We were walking very close to here and talking about the different sites we could see. Our son was listening but he’s still very visual and into craft, so I was explaining something to him, then thought, “Actually let’s draw it and then we’ll take a photo.” And then he wanted to colour it in and that’s how it all started.’ Launching a business, she reckons, is not so far removed from being a journalist. ‘Journalism is very entrepreneurial. Getting your own scoops, finding the content, pitching ideas.’ It’s all, I guess, about spotting that elusive gap in the market, which is what Colour Your Streets has cleverly honed in on. And although the content might be hyper local, the business has big ambitions. ‘We’ve got a hot list of suggestions because people keep getting in touch,’ says Emma – the world, then, is literally their oyster. ‘I just love how much people love seeing where they live in a book, it’s very important to them. I think sense of place is huge.’ What’s huge is the breadth and scope of Emma’s life. News broadcasting’s top job, a Substack, books, columns, other professional projects she’s sworn to secrecy on for now, two children and a growing business with her husband, alongside coping with her chronic medical conditions. ‘I like a challenge,’ she grins. Oh, and she’s very good at compartmentalising. To buy Emma’s colouring books, visit colouryourstreets.co.uk n
PHOTO: © JULIA HAWKINS; © BEN ANDREWS
e
The Morning
Em ou la to
108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Emma-Barnett-V2-KB.indd 108
30/08/2024 12:15
PHOTO: © JULIA HAWKINS; © BEN ANDREWS
Emma and her husband Jeremy (captured outside the Brixton Windmill) have launched a colouring book business together, called Colour Your Streets
Emma-Barnett-V2-KB.indd 109
30/08/2024 12:15
A LIFE IN BALANCE 12 issues for only £39
12
PRINT ISSUES AND INSTANT ACCESS TO EVERY DIGITAL EDITION FOR ONLY £39
countryandtownhouse.com/subscribe countryandtownhousemagazine
Subs-AD-V1-PB.indd 1
countryandtownhouse
country-and-town-house
27/08/2024 16:32
Earthly DELIGHTS
PHOTOS: PEXELS
LUKE ABRAHAMS journeys around the UK in search of our lost pagan heritage
Sunrise over Stonehenge, which is older than the Great Pyramids
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 111
Pagan-Britain-V3-KB.indd 111
30/08/2024 12:08
aganism. Say the word and thoughts of The Wicker Man and demon-worshipping cults slide into your vision. The media has often palmed pagans off as bush-loving, forest-bathing crazies, and they’re still stained with the ‘Satanic Panic’ of the 1980s when hideous tabloids whipped up nonsense hysterical headlines to sell newspapers. Let’s be clear: none burn people alive in the name of sacrifice, nor do they drink the blood of their enemies, taunt their sexually suppressed neighbours or have sordid orgies in the local pond. If there’s any stereotype modern pagans conform to, it’s your average hippy trope kind of folk you find in the depths of the crystal worshipping crowds at a summer festival. As the number of followers of the Christian faith plummets, the old religion, including Wicca and Shamanism, as it were, is on the rise. The latest census statistics reveal that as many as 126,000 pagans currently live throughout the UK. And although there is no official doctrine, the question on many people’s baffled lips is, what is paganism? The overwhelming truth is simple: not much is known about the origin of prehistoric paganism other than what we can decipher from the mysterious monuments scattered across all corners of the British Isles. Much of it, experts agree, is guess work. What is known for sure, though, is that a pagan way of life is steeped within the natural cycles of the cosmos, alongside a deep respect for Mother Nature. My pagan pilgrimage begins in Somerset, the spiritual hinterland of the ancient and modern pagan worlds. It was here several myths, legends and folktales were forged: the Oak Men of the haunted woods and the Gurt Worm of Shervage Wood, to the more familiar tales of witches, hobgoblins, faeries and pixies that ran riot all the way down to the shores of Cornwall. Rising from this magical literary wasteland is The Newt in Somerset, wedged in between the so-called hills of Camelot and Glastonbury Tor. As you cross the boundary into the estate there’s an air of fleeting superstition fluttering about the place. Think of a parallel universe stuck in an almost infinite and invisible literary black hole-like time capsule. The hotel, famous not just for its storied Hadspen House, has made a name for itself with its cultural programmes suffused with the culture and history of Somerset County. Throughout the year celebrations include the annual fire festival and several harvest-themed bashes. I’m here, however, to experience my first wassail, a pagan ceremony normally only open to Newt employees and friends. Ushered in by the sound of drums and traditional song, the wassail king and queen lead the procession to the boughs of a sacred tree. As the cries of wassail and incantations ring through the air, the queen places toast soaked in wassail from the clayen cup as a gift to the tree spirits. Following a final cry of wassail, fireworks crack and pop across the orchards and meadows, and with them, the hope of a great harvest the following season. They wake up. As if by pre-ordained magic, the sun rises the next morning over the hills as the apple orchards of the estate gleam in near perfect unison. I meet Nicky, a witch, who first came to Glastonbury when she was seven and at that time became instantly involved in a pagan family. ‘I was taught witchcraft,’ she tells me as we walk around the estate with Arthur, The Newt’s exquisitely eccentric Head of Programmes. ‘You are taught the lore of the land, the power of the earth, the rocks, the crystals, and anything and everything that moves.’ Puzzled, I ask her what she means as we edge closer towards the estate’s so-called
‘Druid Tree’. Her pupils glimmer under her brilliant purple eye shadow and she then schools me in the art of witchcraft and pagan living. ‘It’s about understanding the innate powers of all the things that are invisible to us. It could be magnetism or magical mushrooms to some, but neither are considered supernatural beings. They are just part of the earth and over this time we’ve forgotten how to tap into them. We are gradually re-learning what our ancestors already knew all over the world.’ Among endless paths and herds of deer the Druid Tree appears. Cornered off by a clanging gate, it nestles just off the trail that leads up to the Roman Villa. Its branches, shooting off in virtually every direction, are wiry, thick and aged. The trunk is almost godly in its proportions, and while its sheer size is foreboding, calmness ensues. ‘Touch it,’ Arthur says, hugging it. There’s a warmth to it that sends shivers down my spine. Like a heartbeat, my searching hands pick up tremors that pulsate through its roots all the way up to its fresh spring-ready buds. I am confused. ‘It’s all about showing people there’s something deeper. We are just the conduit between all of these things, and we are making sense of it all.’ My adventure eventually takes me to the small town of Cardigan, a sleepy hollow where the historical monuments of paganism really shine. On the river Teifi sits The Albion, sister hotel to Fforest farm, an eco-savvy hip hybrid of Welsh farm and Japanese forest retreat, built for burnt-out city folk looking to reset and get back to basics. The beauty of it all, despite the chic pads and maritime history, is its deep connection to its pagan landscapes. Ewan Rees, an expert on pagan Wales who works closely with the hotel, runs several walking tours designed to get guests up close and personal with the area’s pagan roots. It all kicks off at Gors Fawr, a stone circle believed to be connected to Stonehenge. Young archaeologist Delun Gibby tells me that, as with any site in this part of the world, not much is known about it. ‘It could be a calendar, a place for religious rituals or just a place where visiting tribespeople and agricultural societies would hang out to celebrate the changing of the seasons. With no written record, it’s sadly difficult to tell.’ What is certain, however, is that in the early Bronze Age around 4,000 years ago, even before, structures like this started to pop up all around the western fringes of Europe. There are around 150 dolmens and ancient sites in Wales, the most notable spread across the Preseli Hills in Pembrokeshire. There’s Foel Drygarn, an Iron Age hill fort comprising at least 227 hut platforms and three stone cairns, said to be the remains of sacred Bronze Age burial mounds. Then there’s nearby Pentre Ifan, the largest and best-preserved necropolis in the region featuring stones that have stood here for 5,500 years, and so older than the Great Pyramids of Egypt. In Scotland, tales of paganism get culturally complex. I discover this during a four-day adventure aboard the Royal Scotsman, a Belmond Train. As the train chugs out of Waverley station, the hum and laments of bagpipes fill the air. Taking in the view from my Grand Suite, the spiritual laurels of the landscape come alive. Glacial lakes gleam. Tundras sparkle under a patchwork of wildflowers and sky-high mountains, from the western isles to the Cairngorms, pierce the stratosphere in all their magisterial glory. Days are spent at a sedate pace in between grand pit stops – the Kyle of Lochalsh, the Isle of Skye, the Boat of Garten. The most fascinating soul I come across is Andrew Grant McKenzie, a Highland historian who works closely with
112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Pagan-Britain-V3-KB.indd 112
30/08/2024 12:08
The Druid Tree at The Newt in Somerset
Hadspen House, at the heart of The Newt’s estate
The Royal Scotsman is the perfect way to soak up the ancient sites of Scotland
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 113
Pagan-Britain-V3-KB.indd 113
30/08/2024 13:16
Sunset over Pentre Ifan burial chamber in Wales, 5,500 years old
The Fife Arms, which offers foraging trips with herbalist Natasha
An ancient path through Pentre Ifan wood in Wales
species, and as one race, there is now an intense interest in looking back to prehistoric life, particularly for those people in search of a sustainable and green existence lived much like our ancestors. Questions of ‘how will we survive?’ especially plagued primitive beings, just like they do many of us today. There is Nathan, a property director who finds sanctuary on Little Singleton Farm in Kent, teaching the ways of plant lore and floral artistry to day trippers; Sophie, a witch in Folkestone who comforts believers with tarot readings revealing their futures; and my neighbour, who trails the streets of Central London in search of wild flowers and herbs to add to the recipes of her ‘spell book’. They walk between worlds, bound to a perpetual state of magic, among the crowds in silence and in bittersweet matrimony with the universe. To them, and many more, the future of Britain is very much pagan. n
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
the Royal Scotsman. I first meet him out on a Drovers Walk, retracing the steps of his ancestors along the Allt an Dubh river, not far from Inverness. We visit all sorts, from ancient castles to the sites of witch trials and the Clava Cairns, one of the most sacred historic Bronze Age burial sites in Scotland. Over brunch, we talk legends and toy with the taboo subject of lost histories. Celtic invasions, the Romans and the terrible English crop up in conversation, but it’s the tale of the Loch Ness monster that grabs my attention most. ‘If you are thinking of deleted cultures and religions look at Saint Columba.’ Before the arrival of the Celts, much of Scotland was inhabited by the ancient Picts. They go back as far as the late third century AD and are assumed to be the descendants of pagan Iron Age tribes. As part of the wider Gaelicisation of the country from the late ninth century, much of the cultural history of the Picts was displaced as a result of folk tales, like that of the Loch Ness monster. As Andrew tells me, it was a fable designed to terrify the locals: ‘If you didn’t convert to the new religion, you’d get eaten.’ And with that an entire culture and belief system was eradicated. It’s this idea of lost histories that forms much of the basis of my final visit on this British odyssey, a night in the Cairngorms at The Fife Arms. Here I meet Natasha, a self-confessed herbalist so infused with nature you might mistake her for Mother Earth herself. Working closely with The Fife, she’s tasked with taking guests out on foraging tours, and those yearning for a slice of nature and all its healing remedies. ‘I lived in the Hebrides for years and was taught various things by master teachers and shamans, including second sight,’ she tells me as we sit in the Picasso-flecked drawing room of the hotel. The herbalist practices are psychological and ritualistic here, and, as Natasha laments, none of this is new. ‘All of these herbal traditions were lost because nothing was recorded, or it was destroyed. It’s only because of our oral traditions in Scotland has our knowledge of the earth survived. It’s a beautiful network of people who have taught me the ways of the land. I am the modality, as are many others here and across the UK.’ Modern pagans keep the oral and ancient cultural traditions of these islands alive. Like their ancestors before them, they are grappling with many of the big questions we face today. Neil Wilkin, Curator of Early Europe at the British Museum, tells me that, as a 114 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Pagan-Britain-V3-KB.indd 114
30/08/2024 12:09
Download our Bathroom Collections brochure www.cphart.co.uk 0345 600 1950
CP Hart.indd 1
20/08/2024 10:46
IBIZ
Regenerating
Tourism all but decimated self-sufficient
farming for a generation in Ibiza, but there is a movement afoot that is seeing people return to regenerate the land. Is it for the benefit of everybody though? SARAH LANGFORD investigates 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Regen-Ibiza-V3-AB.indd 116
30/08/2024 11:23
IZA
A farm worker planting no-dig strawberries at Els Corondá d’en Celleràs
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 117
Regen-Ibiza-V3-AB.indd 117
30/08/2024 11:23
Sarah Langford is the author of Rooted: How Regenerative Farming can Change the World (Penguin, £10.99) n
118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Regen-Ibiza-V3-AB.indd 118
30/08/2024 11:23
PHOTOS: © BEN ANDREWS
occo Bertinetti hands me a strawberry. I put it in my mouth. It tastes of sweet sun and warm earth. In his fields under a fierce Ibizan sun, I think of those that only eat fruit from plastic supermarket pullets who may never experience this intensity of flavour. The reality that many will never know what a strawberry can taste like is the result of a global farming system that values quantity over quality. Taste, flavour and nutritional density have been superseded in the race for efficiency and value. Since the post-war ‘green revolution’ introduced farmers to artificial nitrogen and pesticides, and production boomed, food has become a commodity. A handful of companies now control half the world’s seed supply and ten monopolies sell us almost everything we eat. The world now produces enough to feed three billion more people than exist, even if it doesn’t get to those who need it, while up to 40 percent is lost or wasted. Meanwhile, industrial farming pollutes our air and waterways, releases greenhouse gases and degrades our soils. While it keeps food cheap, all of us will end up paying the true price. But here in Ibiza, people continued to feed themselves and their communities from irrigated lowlands and terraced hillsides long after food had become commodified elsewhere. Then, in the 1970s, the advent of cheap flights changed everything. Tourism offered a generation who had watched their parents toil under hot sun a different way to earn a living. In the space of one generation, a link to the land and all this represented for thousands of years was broken. It became more profitable to build on land than grow food in it. Huge swathes of farmland was abandoned. Now only 16 percent is used to grow food. From total self-sufficiency just 60 years ago, now Ibizan growers produce just two percent of the food consumed on the island. But Ibiza has been long beloved by those seeking an alternative way to live life. It is perhaps no surprise then that over the past decade, a regenerative farming revolution has challenged the status quo. Regenerative techniques minimise soil disturbance, keep the earth covered with plants, use a diversity of flora and fauna, and bring grazing animals back into farming systems. Together, they restore depleted soils and increase biodiversity, both below the ground and above it. This way of farming may provide answers to the many challenges the world faces, both cultural and climatic. The latter is making itself felt everywhere. When I arrive in Ibiza with two friends – Ben Andrews, an organic farmer, and Claire Whittle, a regenerative vet – we find it deep in drought. While the fields around us are red, bare earth, the ones we have left behind have suffered the wettest 18 months in England since 1836. Half of Ben’s pasture is underwater and the winter crops on the farm I manage have drowned. It is impossible, in this world of extreme weather contrasts, not to realise we must change how we grow our food if the very thing we rely on to do so – our soil – is not to be destroyed. One organisation that has been pivotal in this new wave of change is Banc De Terres D’Eivissa – Ibiza’s Land Bank. An access-to-land project reactivated by Jess Dunlop in 2020, a farmer who uses her own 35 hectares of ceded land to re-establish local grain varieties and produce flour for local bakers and restaurants, it connects owners of abandoned farmland with pioneering land-less growers committed to growing food using regenerative organic methods. From the 18-hectare Terra Viva at Sa Forada to a halfhectare medicinal herb farm, it facilitates peer-to-peer learning for a new generation using farming as a way to reclaim their heritage. Unlike usual tenancy agreements, there is no housing or infrastructure provided on the land, but this is balanced by long leases and a peppercorn rent. It works for everyone. Landowners have their soil restored to health, while growers are given time to invest in a business and support with learning, such as workshops by Abby Rose of Soilmentor.
Rocco is once such grower. His five-year-old farm, Els Corondá d’en Celleràs, sits on fields ceded to him by Land Bank and has become known as the source of some of the best strawberries on the island. He plants into rich no-dig beds of green manure and wood chip, each flanked by diverse plants. These provide shade and habitat for insects that predate the aphids that threaten his fruit. Naturally fertilised with a mixture of compost teas and green manure, it is not just the strawberries that benefit. ‘We tested the soil when we first got here,’ he says. ‘The organic matter was 0.5 percent. Now it is between three and four percent.’ The agroecological techniques he uses have not just enabled him to grow fruit without pesticides or artificial fertiliser. They have transformed the soil: sequestering carbon and increasing its ability to hold what little rainwater falls. This increase in soil organic matter through a change in farming technique is mentioned by Martin Bielich, manager of Juntos Farm. Once an abandoned indoor dairy, the farm has replaced fodder fields with curved terraces full of abundant fruit and vegetables, and a diverse mix of companion herbs and plants. While these supply its sister farm-to-table restaurant, Juntos House, the farm is also becoming a food hub for those who want to learn how to transition to agroecological methods. There is, undeniably, some tension between the projects started by wealthy foreign landowners and a landless generation who want the chance to reclaim their agricultural inheritance. It is easier, of course, to experiment with deep pockets and to make something commercially viable when produce is sold to a consumer market rather than local communities. In the market outside Sant Antoni de Portmany, in which many growers are part of the Ecofeixes – the first ecological agricultural cooperative in Ibiza – I am reminded of this. Over a stall piled high with bounty, Fina and Maribel, whose farm, Can Fontet, grows organic vegetables, chicken and forage, are fierce in the defence of their heritage and customers. ‘We are not growing for the tourists,’ Maribel says. ‘I am growing for my people.’ Vicent Mari Serra, ‘Palermet’ – an agricultural historian, farmer and craftsman – is also sceptical. The wealthy foreigners have, he says, ‘no culture and no traditions or knowledge of how to farm land’. But he also knows it is a challenge to attract a new generation back to the land. The grandparents who raised him had a small plot they would plough with a mule. ‘Farming,’ he says, ‘was for poor people. People preferred to go into tourism when they could.’ Around Vicent’s land is an abandoned citrus grove. The mature trees are weighed down with fruit that will go unpicked, while the grasses underneath have grown tall and wild. The bare soil under citrus we are used to seeing is, he says, for aesthetics. ‘This land is dry,’ Vicent says. ‘We have about 500ml of rainfall each year.’ With a growing season that stretches from September to May, it is a problem when, as this year, ‘not a drop of rain’ falls between October to April. Keeping the dry soil covered is an obvious solution, even if it may not be what people are used to seeing. The benefits of this principle is evident at Can Cristofol Finca Ecologica, run by the charismatic Youri. A farm, shop and cultural hub, the abundant beauty of diverse planting into beds that have never been tilled is on full show. It is not just the sight and smell of ripening fruit and vegetables that proves it. The air is full of birds, crickets, beetles and butterflies. The land, both above and below the ground, is alive. Standing at the boundary’s edge, I hear the scrape of metal on earth. I watch a man hoeing the earth between his rows of vines, raking away all unwanted plants. It is impossible not to be struck by the contrast between how the land I am standing on sounds, smells and looks, and the sterility of this neighbour’s. He must see it, too. The fact that he is facing the heat of the morning to hoe, despite the abundance on the other side of the boundary, demonstrates another truth. Change is hard. However, there is no doubt it is happening. All over the island there is proof of it, whether brought about by foreigners choosing to spend their money on restoring abandoned land with agroecological techniques or through enterprises such as the Land Bank. On an island known for its alternative spirit, it will be a combination of these fertile imaginations that may just offer us all solutions for how our food needs to be grown.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sarah talks to Rocco Bertinetti of Els Corondá d’en Celleràs; a carob tree; Sarah with goats at Juntos Farm; taking a walk with Martin Bielich, manager of Juntos Farm; compost made on-site at the farm; in conversation with Ibicenco farmer Vicent Mari Serra
PHOTOS: © BEN ANDREWS
There is UNDENIABLY a tension between the projects started by WEALTHY foreign landowners and a LANDLESS generation
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 119
Regen-Ibiza-V3-AB.indd 119
30/08/2024 11:24
(Left) Connie wears: Top, jacket, skirt Louis Vuitton Boots Jimmy Choo (Right) Irene wears: Dress Alberta Ferretti Jumper Barbour Backpack Tusting Shoes Fairfax & Favor
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 120
30/08/2024 10:12
Golden
HOUR It’s all change for the season FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER LOUISE SAMUELSEN
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 121
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 121
30/08/2024 10:12
Connie wears: Skirt, bustier, cardigan Simone Rocha Headband Lock & Co Umbrella Swaine London Pants Commando Boots Burberry
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 122
30/08/2024 10:12
(Left) Irene wears: Dress Magda Butrym Coat Holland Cooper Boots Russell & Bromley Hat Christys’ London (Right) Connie wears: Poncho as skirt Purdey Jumper Begg & Co Bag Dubarry Socks Le Chameau Shoes Crockett & Jones
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 123
30/08/2024 10:12
(Left) Irene wears: Shirt, jumper, skirt Emilia Wickstead Bag Westley Richards Socks Le Chameau Boots House of Bruar (Right) Connie wears: Shirt, jumper, skirt Emilia Wickstead Boots Le Chameau Bag Tusting
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 124
30/08/2024 10:12
Headband Lock & Co Dress Zeynap Kartal Waistcoat, boots, belt Fairfax & Favor
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 125
30/08/2024 10:12
(Left) Irene wears: Jumper Stella McCartney Kilt Dubarry Boots Le Chameau Socks Barbour (Right) Connie wears: Top and cardigan Erdem Coat Really Wild Boots Russell & Bromley Ring Monica Vinader
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 126
30/08/2024 10:12
Dress Huishan Zhang Jacket Sabina Savage TEAM Make-up and hair: Ruth Warrior @ Ray Brown Represents using By Terry and Hair by Sam McKnight Photographer’s Assistant: Lauren Hillsdon Fashion Assistant: Ella McKiernan Video: Carl Wilson @ Adrenalin Photographic Models: Connie Savill @ The Hive and Irene Shaprovska @ Titanium LOCATION Shot on location at Temple Guiting Manor templeguitingmanor.co.uk
Cover-Shoot-V5-TD.indd 127
30/08/2024 10:12
On Location Temple Guiting Manor was the gorgeous backdrop for our cover shoot
B
uilt from honeyed local stone, Temple Guiting is a historic, picture-book Cotswolds estate. It was chosen as the beautiful backdrop for this issue’s cover shoot, which saw photographer Louise Samuelsen and Fashion Director Nicole Smallwood team up to capture our cover models in Dior, Stella McCartney, and Simone Rocha. It’s all the new season outfit inspiration you could possibly need as autumn draws in. The Temple Guiting estate unfolds over 14.5 acres, and has been beautifully restored by owners Jane and Steven Collins. It features five properties across the 15th-century Jacobean manor house, barns and cottages, which can be booked separately or together as a whole, sleeping up to 32 guests. It’s the perfect location whether you want a family weekend escape, or larger celebration – or even a wedding. The highlight of any stay at Temple Guiting Manor is the estate’s gorgeous gardens, which were created by renowned garden designer Jinny Blom (who was chosen by The Prince of Wales to design the ‘Healing Garden’ at the 2002 Chelsea Flower Show). Guests are free to wander the exquisitely planted beds, relax in the outdoor seating areas, and enjoy the al fresco hot tub. There’s also a tennis court, with lessons on request, a wild swimming lake, heated outdoor pool, and a cinema room. Also available to guests is The Retreat, a boutique wellness space in the village. It features a state-of-the-art water rower gym with cardio and weight facilities, treatment space and a pilates/yoga studio. Personal training and private classes are on offer for guests, too. Service at Temple Guiting is also exceptional, with a dedicated on-site concierge team, and a fabulous private chef team who can create a full range of menus, from afternoon teas, picnic hampers and BBQs, to party canapés and full course meals. The ideal autumn escape. templeguitingmanor.co.uk n 128 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
On-Location-V3-TD.indd 128
30/08/2024 11:19
LECHAMEAU.COM
Le Chameau.indd 1
23/08/2024 18:00
CLAUDIA WEARS Coat and jeans: Holland Cooper Jumper: Purdey Shirt: Me + Em Boots: Hunter Gloves: Johnstons of Elgin
Under the
HOOD PHOTO: BBC
CHARLIE COLVILLE meets fashion stylist Sinead McKeefry, the brains behind Claudia Winkleman’s fabulous Traitors outfits
130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
CTH-Claudia-Winkleman-V4-PB.indd 130
30/08/2024 13:18
PHOTO: BBC
‘I
’ve just got off the phone with Claudia – they’re filming in Inverness,’ TV stylist Sinead McKeefry begins. ‘There’s a bit of back and forth about a white tie at the minute.’ We’re talking about Claudia Winkleman, fashion’s woman of the moment. The TV host has risen to the ranks of style royalty in recent years, thanks to a streak of viral outfits featured in BBC reality series The Traitors. But where Claudia sits front and centre in the show, behind the scenes is where you’ll find her stylist, Sinead. She began her career over 20 years ago, becoming the go-to stylist for household names like Fearne Cotton, Billie Piper and, of course, Claudia. ‘It’s been a long old relationship,’ the stylist remarks. ‘It was Fearne actually who introduced me to Claudia around 18 years ago. We just clicked instantly. Claudia has a really good sense of style and a natural interest in fashion. She’s forever sending me things on Instagram.’ But in the two decades they’ve worked together, Sinead says she’s never seen anything quite like the response to The Traitors. ‘I wondered what it [the show] would be like at first, because it was outside what Claudia would normally do. But when I spoke to production and they showed me the backdrop of the castle and Inverness, I just thought, “Wow, okay, we can do something really special here.”’ And it seems UK audiences agree; there is something special about The Traitors, and its impeccably dressed host. Sinead admits she didn’t really expect the reaction both the show and her work received. ‘It’s been pretty insane, I have to say,’ she says. ‘I usually get a great response from Strictly, but people hadn’t really seen Claudia in the outdoor elements before. It was new and exciting.’ After the success of series one, Sinead decided to ‘do what we did, but also bring a few little twists in’ for series two. ‘Like the Brora kilt look, which we paired with the Kapital jumper – the one with the smiley faces on the elbows,’ she explains. The outfit was one of the most memorable from the series. ‘My daughter’s friend said she saw “TraitorsCore” in Grazia, and I remember thinking, “What does that even mean?”’ the stylist recalls. ‘So, I went and bought a copy, and there was a huge picture of that outfit, a huge article about it.’ It was one of many hotly discussed outfits from the show. As a rule, Sinead creates 24 looks each season: ‘There are 12 daytime looks, then 12 round table looks’ – each one treading the lines of country chic and urban glamour, with a sprinkling of reality TV theatricality.
ARE YOU A TRAITOR?
You can certainly look like one
BRORA Cashmere wristwarmers, £59. broraonline.com
LK BENNETT Mia cape, £499. lkbennett.com
MR MITTENS Kimmie cardigan, €530. ilovemrmittens.com
COMMANDO Neoprene leggings, £110. wearcommando.com
Claudia wears a Kapital jumper and Brora kilt in series two
LE KILT Mohair mini wrap skirt, £560. lekilt.co.uk
PARIS TEXAS Dallas ankle boots, £670. netaporter.com
‘Within the game, there are the missions,’ she adds. ‘The missions can determine whether we can be a bit more theatrical, but we often don’t know what those missions will be until we get there. So, we have to go out on a bit of a limb.’ With a vague idea of what to expect from the show, Sinead leans into both wardrobe staples and wild cards to make a statement. ‘Look at the Saint Laurent fringe coat, for example,’ she recounts. ‘And then there was the funeral challenge. That came very late – we had 24 hours to send a veil up to Inverness.’ Last minute details aside, Sinead is meticulous when it comes to crafting a Traitors look. ‘I mood board first of all,’ she says. ‘We used old pictures of Amanda Harlech, some Jigsaw and Burberry campaigns from years ago. It’s also about having the right fabrics, textures, colours – and playing with them.’ And, with a backdrop as magnificent as the Highlands, British and Irish brands sit at the top of the stylist’s checklist. ‘I naturally love those brands anyway – you know, all the heritage brands,’ she tells us. ‘Purdey, Brora, Barbour, Dubarry of Ireland, Johnstons of Elgin. They’re all brands that I would wear myself. And Claudia really naturally makes the clothes look quite cool. So, sometimes I can afford to put her in things that are a bit more traditional. She carries it. She makes it work.’ Out of all the brands mentioned, there’s one that has Sinead’s heart: ‘Johnstons of Elgin just really fits in well with the visual story and theme we had in mind; it’s a really luxe Scottish brand.’ It’s also the maker behind the presenter’s famed fingerless gloves. ‘Claudia and I go to its sample sales when we can – you’ll catch everyone elbowing each other out of the way to get those fingerless gloves.’ But Sinead doesn’t want us to get used to these fan favourite finds. ‘I’ve had to dig deeper in this [next] series,’ she confides. ‘Because the fashion has been picked up so much, it felt a shame to miss that opportunity to keep digging deeper – to keep creating surprises. We’ve decided that each series will have its own theme when it comes to wardrobe. It will be very obvious. We’ll try to add a little twist each year, so that there’s a way to visually identify each series. It will be different from anything you’ve seen before.’ And, being the Faithfuls we are, we can’t wait to see it all onscreen. @sineadmckeefry. You can watch all available episodes of The Traitors on BBC iPlayer n
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 131
CTH-Claudia-Winkleman-V4-PB.indd 131
30/08/2024 13:18
IS THE GREAT BRITISH
BOOZER OVER?
James May, presenter-cumpublican, thinks not. Yet they’re closing at a rate of blinkers. TESSA DUNTHORNE ponders it over a pint
J
ames May of Top Gear (turned The Grand Tour) fame bought the Royal Oak near his family home in Wiltshire in 2014. It wasn’t his first foray into boozer culture – he started his eponymous gin brand in 2021 – but this was a bigger step. ‘I was a bit browbeaten into buying it, but I also realised that if I didn’t there wouldn’t be a single pub within walking distance of our home. Buying it was the only way to ensure there would be.’ These days, when people buy pubs, they tend to talk about it in the language of dreams. A ‘passion project’, says TV chef Tommy Banks about opening The Abbey Inn in North Yorkshire earlier last year, or ‘indulging my teenage fancy’ (says James). It’s pretty clear that the pub business isn’t big business; about 500 pubs close every single year, according to the British Beer and Pub Association. The word ‘investment’ doesn’t crop up in any conversation – because it quite simply isn’t one. ‘I don’t take any money out of it,’ says James. ‘I take the view that it’s like owning a nice
painting or sculpture – you own it for self-gratification.’ Pub ownership in 2024, then, is a bit more of a charitable act (less favourably, you could say it was an act of patronage). It’s not, either, necessarily one relegated to only the likes of the media-monied. The Mardale Inn, in the Lake District, was bought by 500 community investors in 2022 to ensure, like James, that they had access to a decent pub within walking distance to them. ‘The Mardale Inn had been closed for five years before the community bought it, and over Covid, we lost the only other pub in the valley,’ says Phil Sweetland, chair of the community pub. ‘After some early community consultation – village hall meetings – we found 500-plus investors. It’s a community pub first, now, and ultimately maintaining a “community spirit” is what will ensure pubs survive. The pub is the great leveller – enjoyed by folks of all backgrounds.’ Pubs have been vital to British culture for millennia. Alehouses and tabernae were brought over by party-hard Romans, then kept up by
132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
James-May-V4-AB.indd 132
30/08/2024 13:49
Anglo-Saxons after Rome’s decline because, by then, alehouses were havens for communities. James Gummer, founder and director of the Public House Group (The Pelican, Notting Hill, The Hero, Maida Vale, and The Bull, Charlbury, among a few of his cheery boozers), agrees. ‘Pubs are an integral part of British culture,’ he says, ‘they are our form of hospitality. The French have their brasseries and the Italians their trattorias and we have the pub. They sit on prominent corners in every village, town and city, and they act as these town halls. They’re a meeting place for people to come and feel a part of a community.’ Indeed, as meeting houses, pubs have played host to myriad moments of historical import: the first rumblings of the gunpowder plot took place (allegedly) at the Duck and Drake Inn, off the Strand; playwright Christopher Marlowe met his demise in a bar brawl down in Deptford. They’re so defining of our culture that tourists flock to our oldest pubs and more than two out of five of all international visits to the UK include a trip to the taverna, according to the Morning Advertiser. But things change: Covid hit and taxes rose, so pubs have tighter margins, and the cost of living impacts pub-goers’ spending. And then, as a nation, we’ve stopped drinking so much – a YouGov survey from 2022 suggests 23 percent of drinkers have reduced their alcohol consumption off the back of increased no/low options. And this is only set to increase: one in three Gen Zers claim to be teetotal (take this with a pinch of salt, though – the youngest in that cohort is 12 years old). ‘Churches disappear if they don’t have a congregation,’ says James. ‘This is similar. But I don’t think pubs are doomed – bad pubs are, people hate me for saying this, but the same people that think pubs should be preserved as part of our heritage also aren’t using them.’ He continues: ‘Decent pubs with nice
From left: James May in front of his pub near Salisbury; James Gin London Drizzle; some pints in the Royal Oak
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 133
James-May-V4-AB.indd 133
30/08/2024 13:49
DATE WITH A PINT
More country and town pubs we love
THE ABBEY INN, Yorkshire The Black Swan’s Tommy Banks but at pub prices. And all with views of old Byland Abbey, too. Pints really do taste better in Yorkshire. abbeyinnbyland.com
From top: Chef Tommy Banks in front of his ‘passion project’, The Abbey Inn in Yorkshire; its cosy interior
atmospheres and clean bogs will survive. They will become different to what they were before World War One – or whatever it is that people are romanticising – and they will evolve.’ Tommy Banks bought and opened the Abbey Inn in in May 2023, undeterred by the blinding rate of closures by publicans. He partly opened it as a passion project, partly as a gesture towards circularity – in two senses. ‘I was a pot washer here when I was 13,’ he says. ‘It was my first hospitality job. But also we have a farm-to-table ethos [across our restaurants] and for the Black Swan [his Michelin-starred restaurant in Oldstead], for example, you often need to use premium cuts of meat, but we had no outlet for those other cuts. Sometimes you need somewhere you can sell burgers to achieve circularity.’ In his view, the evolution partly comes from diversification of the pub’s offer – primarily food. ‘It’s so important that pub food has the identity of “pub food”,’ he says. ‘That’s why on the menu we’ll have pies, steaks, fish and chips – that sort of thing. Particularly for a countryside pub [like ours]. A wet-led pub really only works in the city with a different clientele.’ James echoes this point. ‘Country pubs are skewed to food and being destinations. We’ve got the best
chef in the area.’ So you’ve a gastropub, then? ‘It annoys me when people talk about gastropubs with a sneer,’ he says, ‘when really they just mean a pub where the food is actually decent.’ But: ‘numerically, the best-selling item on our menu is Guy Ritchie’s bitter, by number of units. People still like a proper pint. It’s still a pub, not a restaurant – you can stand at the bar, drink beer and talk bollocks, like you’re supposed to do in a pub.’ So, while the Great British pub might be over its heyday in terms of (the tiny matter of) actual profitability, it seems to remain that to own one is to achieve a childhood dream. And we’re seeing a new surge in popularity of destination pubs – like James mentions – but not just for the food. More than one pub has benefited from the power of social media, cementing crazy cult followings in an ultra-modern way. The Devonshire in Soho, for example, was the buzziest opening of last year, thanks in part to social media stars such as @EatingWithTod (a foodie type with 1.1 million followers), whereas The Black Dog in Vauxhall was swamped with Taylor Swift fans after her latest album referenced a bar of the same name. Not to mention, these spaces remain culturally important as institutions. Our politicians still run campaigns pulling pints at pubs: it remains a bellwether test of their down-to-earthness if they can correctly price a lager; Keir Starmer ran a campaign in which he repeatedly referenced Kentish Town’s The Pineapple as his local boozer. There may be less of them, says James, but they’ll be better. The ones with decent bogs. And maybe we’ll pick which to go to on different terms. ‘Pubs will evolve,’ repeats James, ‘like everything else does. And they’ll still be a peculiarly British institution.’ Cheers to that. n
CLOCK HOUSE TAVERN, Peckham Rye A traditionally styled boozer opening in September – think local tipples and hearty fare from Gengelly’s. parchedlondon.co.uk
THE BULL, Charlbury Cosy fireplace, plush chairs and exposed Tudor beams? We’re there. Helps that the farm-to-fork menu is exceptional – as is its drinks list. thebullcharlbury.com
THE PARAKEET, Kentish Town When head chef Ben Allen (ex-Brat, Steirereck) opened The Parakeet, it was bound to be a winner. One of London’s best gastropubs. theparakeetpub.com
134 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
James-May-V4-AB.indd 134
30/08/2024 13:49
Mandarin Stone.indd 1
14/08/2024 18:41
Back to
SCHOOL AMY WAKEHAM sits down for a wee dram with iconic illustrator Ralph Steadman to mark his new, educational collaboration with Cask 88
The Whisky Correspondence Course features bottles adorned with some of Ralph’s irreverent illustrations
136 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Ralph-Steadman-V5-AB.indd 136
30/08/2024 11:22
W
ith the nights drawing in and autumn making itself known, there’s no better time to rediscover your love of a warming wee dram. But whether you’re a whisky beginner or aficionado, there’s always lots more to learn about this historic tipple. Step in Cask 88, which has just launched its Whisky Correspondence Course in collaboration with illustrator – and whisky lover – Ralph Steadman. The artist gained a cult following thanks to his work with Hunter S Thompson, illustrating several of his most famous articles and books. Over the years he has also collaborated with everyone from The Who and Ted Hughes to Anthony Bourdain. However, it was his early art education in 1954 during his National Service, when he completed the Percy V Bradshaw Press Art School correspondence course, that forms the inspiration for Cask 88’s new project. The Whisky Correspondence Course comprises four semesters, each focusing on different elements of the whiskymaking process, and exemplified through three rare single cask, single malt Scotch whiskies. These come in a set of 5cl miniature inkwell presentation bottles for tasting, alongside ‘coursework’ on the art of Scotch whisky and Ralph Steadman himself. Alternatively, the full 70cl bottles featured in each semester are available, adorned with an illustration from Ralph’s irreverent 1994 memoir Still Life with Bottle: Whisky According to Ralph Steadman, alongside a print of the drawing and a course certificate. The artist himself, Ralph tells me over a call from his home in Kent, is partial to a peaty Scottish whisky, particularly from the Ardbeg Distillery on Islay, which he visited on his tour of the country for the book. The illustrations from this journey, some of which now adorn Cask 88’s bottles, feature the eccentric characters he met along the way. ‘There were always legends about people who had been around for years, and who were still drinking, and were still bright as a
button,’ he remembers. ‘They were usually quite jolly people who didn’t think about anything but having their wee dram.’ Ralph developed his characteristic style when he was studying engineering drawing as a teenager at a technical college in Wrexham. ‘It became what I was good at doing,’ he says. ‘It fascinated me to be able to draw circles and straight lines, and landscapes done with the lines. I found that it suited me to do it that way.’ The classical lines of his landscapes contrast with his signature unstructured, freehand characters. ‘When you see perfect circles, it’s then easier to do blots and wobbly things,’ he adds. Despite his immense popularity, why his work resonates with so many people is still a mystery to Ralph: ‘I never knew. I don’t know why people like it all.’ He pauses, before continuing: ‘They noticed it. They noticed the carefully done and the uncarefully [done]. And they probably liked it for that reason, because it was a bit playful. ‘I wasn’t breaking rules on purpose. I was just trying to do something else. I was just making a mark and making another mark, and then another. And then something evolves out of that. Making a mark is what it’s about – leaving a sign you’ve been there.’ With his unique style and instantly recognisable signature – not to mention the stamp he left on 20th century art and culture more widely – we can say for sure he’s achieved that. Once, Ralph met his erstwhile art teacher, Percy V Bradshaw, and commented that his course was a little old-fashioned. Bradshaw responded: ‘The principles of drawing will always remain the same, dear boy.’ The same could be said about making – and enjoying – fine Scotch whisky, which is why this is such a resounding creative collaboration. Semester 1: The Engineering of Whisky is available now, from £150 for three miniatures. cask88.com. New exhibition Ralph STEADman: INKling is at The Historic Dockyard Chatham, 21 September to 17 November 2024. ralphsteadman.com
ONE MORE FOR THE ROAD Rediscover whisky with a host of exciting new collaborations, launches and happenings
1
Glenmorangie Debuts Signet Reserve
Back in 2008, Glenmorangie released its Signet whisky, unusually inspired by its director of whisky creation, Dr Bill Lumsden’s, favourite Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. For its 2024 release of Signet, Glenmorangie has pushed the whisky’s unique flavour even further by finishing it in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. ‘Many years ago, we challenged ourselves to explore the dark side of Glenmorangie’s flavour profile. Inspired by the beguiling flavours of freshly brewed coffee, our awardwinning Signet was born,’ says Lumsden. ‘Now, by ageing Glenmorangie Signet further in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, we are taking that whisky’s hallmark style even deeper into deliciousness.’ Glenmorangie Signet Reserve, £345. glenmorangie.com
2
Take a Whisky Tour of the World
Once you’ve accomplished Cask 88 and Ralph Steadman’s Whisky Correspondence Course, turn your attention further afield with A Whisky Tour of the World. The collection features a handmade and engraved wooden bookcase that houses five linen-bound books containing 24 x 50ml ultra-premium whisky expressions, two whisky glasses, plus an illustrated book on the 24 distilleries, the whiskies and tasting notes. The 24 whiskies featured include exciting and award-winning drams from Don Michael, black whiskey from Peru; Piccadily, Indri single malt whisky from India; and Abasolo, corn whisky from Mexico – intrepid new horizons for the world of whisky. A Whisky Tour of the World, £195. gravitydrinks.co.uk
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 137
Ralph-Steadman-V5-AB.indd 137
30/08/2024 11:22
3
Rankin Captures the Spirit of Spain for The Glendronach
Prestigious whisky distillery The Glendronach has partnered with photographer Rankin to relaunch the brand ahead of its 200th anniversary. His campaign brings a flavour of Spain to the Scottish Highlands, featuring a flamenco dancer among the whisky casks – The Glendronach matures its whiskies in rare Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso casks from Andalucía, Spain, resulting in an exceptional sherried whisky. ‘I just loved the initial idea,’ says Rankin of the campaign. ‘I know the whisky sector well and this felt genuinely different and exciting to me. I also thrive off creating cultural collisions and finding beauty in the tensions they bring. Plus, as a Scot by birth, the idea of bringing Flamenco to the Highlands stirred passion in me that I just couldn’t resist.’ glendronachdistillery.com
5
4
A Scottish Still Life
Renowned whisky maker Bob Dalgarno has been making limited-edition bottles for The Glenturret since 2022, with the distillery’s Still Life series with Lalique. The project is inspired by the unique character of the Scottish seasons and their influence on Dalgarno’s life in whisky to date. Limited to only 105 bottles worldwide per edition, each iteration is presented in beautiful Lalique decanters, which capture the essence of the respective season. Still Life Summer, £5,500. theglenturret.com
The Macallan Celebrates 200 Years
To mark its 200th anniversary of making the finest single malt Scotch, The Macallan is launching TimeSpirit, a 30-seat restaurant on its 485-acre estate. It’s in collaboration with acclaimed, three-Michelin star Spanish restaurant El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, and will feature a nine-course tasting menu. The space has been created by award-winning architect David Thulstrup – who also designed a little-known restaurant called Noma – and features sweeping views of the rolling hills of Speyside. Time will tell if TimeSpirit will also receive its Michelin star… themacallan.com
6
The Peatiest Blend from Bruichladdich
Octomore from Bruichladdich is the world’s most heavily peated Scotch whisky series, with a new expression released annually. The latest and 15th in the series comprises three releases: 15.1, 15.2 and 15.3. They’re raw and uncompromising pours, matured for five years, always heavily peated, and bottled close to cask strength. The result is three surprisingly elegant whiskies. Available from 10 September. £145, £160, £200, respectively. bruichladdich.com
8
Karuizawa Reopens
7
Bladnoch Distillery Debuts Immersive Experience
Whisky lovers can lose themselves in brandnew, immersive theatrical show at the Bladnoch Distillery. Bladnoch Tasting Notes follows the story of brothers John and Thomas McClelland, who founded the distillery in 1817 on Bladnoch Farm, and leads guests through the distillery’s history, right through to the modern day featuring Bladnoch’s revival in recent years. Guests will also be given the chance to sample two Lowland single malt whiskies from Bladnoch’s exceptional portfolio during the show, and be given a tutored tasting of new expression, Bladnoch 8 Year Old, led by master distiller, Dr Nick Savage. 27-29 September, tickets, £25. bladnoch.com
The renowned Karuizawa distillery in Japan closed its doors in 2000 but, thanks to a recent investment, is back, along with members of its original distilling team. Once Japan’s most famous distillery, it was renowned for its small batch releases and premium liquid – in 2020, a bottle of Karuizawa 52-year-old became the most valuable bottle of Japanese whisky ever sold, achieving £363,000 through Sotheby’s in London. Whisky fans can now own their very own cask of Japanese single malt – although they will have to wait at least ten years before it can be drunk. Cask owners are able to visit the distillery, meet the team and sample their cask directly, as well as create their very own bespoke independent bottling release. dekanta.com n
138 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Ralph-Steadman-V5-AB.indd 138
30/08/2024 11:22
Hardware | Switches & Sockets | Lighting corston.com
Corston.indd 1
21/08/2024 15:39
Choice, not compromise
Celebrating design at Decorex 2024 Visit one of our 23 showrooms | 0808 178 3211 | www.sofasandstuff.com
Sofas & Stuff.indd 1
29/08/2024 14:42
A dose of country home inspiration, courtesy of Sims Hilditch... Continued on p148
ON DESIGN Celebrating the best of British country house interiors
Opener-Case-Study-V4-TD.indd 141
Edited by CAROLE ANNETT
30/08/2024 13:34
ON DESIGN
Contents 144
DESIGN NOTES What Carole Annett is loving right now
148
HOMING IN Peeking into an idyllic Warwickshire country home
150
BOYS’ TOYS Create the den of your dreams
152
IT’S A WINNER Drooling over the Greenwood family’s new kitchen
156
GADGETS ‘N’ GIZMOS Tech up your home with the latest must-haves
158
NAUTI-COOL Take inspiration from sailing the seven seas
160
MY INTERIORS LIFE Spending the day with Kelly Hoppen
152
150 148
EDITOR ’ S LET TER
W
elcome to our autumn On Design special, where we’re celebrating the good life, from country living and a kitchen designed for convivial get-togethers, to the latest home technology and nautical-inspired trends. We zoom in on a Warwickshire house nestled in a bucolic setting that interior designers Sims Hilditch used as inspiration, decorating the rooms with colour and pattern to echo the natural world outside. I love its homeliness, which is impressive when you consider it was originally a series of outbuildings, now seamlessly integrated so the house looks as if it’s always been as one. And the dog looks happy, which as any owner will testify, is a key element in measuring comfort levels (p148). I’m not sure if Will and Caro Greenwood have any pets but they certainly have the space. Their new kitchen, designed by Life Kitchens, is perfect for family time and entertaining – we dive into their inspiration for creating the ideal hub for everyday life (p152). Do you have an eye for the latest gizmo? Tessa Dunthorne’s round up keeps you up to date on what’s new (p156). I’d be happy with a sauna cabin in the garden now the weather’s on the turn and who could resist John Lewis’s yellow lamp, a ray of sunshine for any room. We’ve turned to the experts for plenty of tips, including Najwa Mroue of Atelier NM, and Kelly Hoppen, the doyenne of the design world, tells us about her day and how she stays focused (p160). Music is what inspires her when designing, ‘I love R&B, funk and soul; designing to a beat and sounds I enjoy makes the creativity flow,’ she says. Kelly Hoppen, you rock! I hope you enjoy what we’ve put together and don’t forget September/October means design shows including Focus/24 (dcch.co.uk) and Decorex (decorex.com). I’ll be 156 hosting talks at both events – be great to see you there.
142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Interiors-Contents-Eds-Letter-V4-TD.indd 142
30/08/2024 13:01
Elegance Redefined with the Dusk Collection
Discover the Dusk Collection From Top to Bottom: The Grand Chalice Dining Table, The Paris Dining Table, The Wedge Console, The Madison Coffee Table
+44 (0)20 77515537 | sales@davidsonlondon.com | davidsonlondon.com
Davidson .indd 1
30/08/2024 11:49
PARTY ALL NIGHT
KEF integrated speakers take the craftsmanship of Savoir beds into another league of innovation and design. £99,500, harrods.com
ROSANNA FALCONER Peony green scallop napkins, £20. rosannafalconer.com
DESIGN NOTES
What’s caught Carole Annett’s interiors eye this season
CLEAR WINNER Handmade in Montreal, the Harlow Dried Flowers chandelier combines alabaster-white or smoked grey glass with a sculptural metal finish. From £17,500. gabriel-scott.com
MARCHING ON
Parade wallcovering by Luke Edward Hall for Rubelli, £264 p/m, vinyl or paper finish. rubelli.com
SEATS OF YEARNING
Chairs upholstered in Lovat (front) and Myrtle, both Johnstons of Elgin wool tweed herringbone, £177 p/m. johnstonsofelgin.com
DON ’ T MISS . . .
Decorex. From 6-9 October, the high-end interior design community gathers at Olympia Events for an unforgettable four days of new products and trends. decorex.com 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Design-Notes-V7-TD.indd 144
30/08/2024 11:28
ON DESIGN NEWS
MATCHSTICK MEN
Linley matchbox sleeve, £125. davidlinley.com
BRIGHT IDEAS
Lamps and lights that spark joy
SOHO LIGHTING Organic Fleur glass pendant light, £81.42. soholighting.com
WHO’S FOR PUD? Deirdre Dyson’s Cassata design celebrates the colours of the fruity Sicilian dessert, from chartreuse to jade green and every shade in between. Silk/ wool, from £1,400 per sq/m. deirdredyson.com
LIGHT AS A CLOUD The Stein family from Norway has been making down- filled duvets since 1956. You may not have heard of them but if you have travelled on the Orient Express or by private jet, you’ve probably experienced one. From £698. norvegr.com
PAOLO MOSCHINO Adnet, navy leather reading wall light, £1,280. paolomoschino.com
PORTA ROMANA Llama wall light, from £846. portaromana.com
DAVID HUNT LIGHTING Snake Wall Light with shade, £228 each. davidhuntlighting.co.uk
UNIQUE GIFT
Rachel Vosper finds vintage Murano dishes to hold her beautifully made, hand-poured candles. Each vessel is refillable. Orange Murano triangular flower bowl candle, £100. rachelvosper.com
ENCHANTED LANDS
Emma J Shipley transports us to fantastical Highlands, cloud forests and the wild plains of her imagination with her intricate designs. emmajshipley.com
LEGATO STUDIO Honor wall sconce, £1,325. legatostudio.co.uk
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 145
Design-Notes-V7-TD.indd 145
30/08/2024 11:28
ON DESIGN NEWS
RICH HISTORY Long Gallery brocade by Zoffany, from a design at Temple Newsam, a Tudor-Jacobean house in Yorkshire, £229 p/m. sandersondesigngroup.com
NICE SLICE Wedge console from The Dusk Collection at Davidson London features two finishes – Moroccan sunset lacquer and distressed bronze, £8,546. davidsonlondon.com
GOOD STUFF
Graphenstone introduces 12 new colours designed by Kate Watson Smyth of ‘Mad About the House’. From £33 p/l. graphenstoneecopaints.store
ENDLESS CHIC Hill House interiors celebrate 25 years in the business with a new range of furniture and accessories. Camilla armchair, from £3,850. hillhouselifestyle.com
FIRED UP
Spanish artist Alvaro Picardo’s hand-painted lampshades, designed in collaboration with Kate Aslangul of interior design studio Oakley Moore, from £95. oakleymoore.com
SILVER SCREEN GLAMOUR
This Marilyn unit, with delicately fluted push-front doors, is part of the Park Avenue collection by CP Hart, available in over 20 finishes from £10,856. cphart.co.uk
A S K AN E XPE RT How do country interiors differ from those in the city? Jane Landino of Taylor Howes answers
‘City homes often feature clean, sleek designs with strategically placed key elements that create a cohesive look and accentuate special moments. In contrast, country homes offer the opportunity to showcase the unique character of each room, with whimsical wallpapers and textured fabrics adding personality and charm.’ 146 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Design-Notes-V7-TD.indd 146
30/08/2024 11:28
Nikoleta Sekulovic Jane Morris, 2024, acrylic and oil stick on linen, 195 x 130 cm
Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery 2a Conway Street, London, W1T 6BA info@rebeccahossack.com +44 207 436 4899
R Hossack Gallery NEW.indd 1
27/08/2024 10:26
HOMING IN Carole Annett peeks into an idyllic country home
‘I
t’s a very interesting property,’ says Gema Broch, senior interior designer at renowned design studio Sims Hilditch, ‘Because it feels like it’s been here forever but was actually built in 2005.’ Located in the village of Shipston-on-Stour, Warwickshire, the house was originally a series of out-buildings before architect Craig Hamilton was tasked with creating a cohesive look adding reclaimed fireplaces and columns to give a sense of history. It was spotted by a family relocating home from the South of France who contacted Sims Hilditch to continue the house’s evolution. ‘We went to visit and immediately fell in love,’ says Gema. ‘There were no major structural changes when we came on board but we needed to add more detail to the interior architecture, create a plan for furniture (much of which was being repurposed from the client’s previous house) and create a decorating
scheme.’ The house, spanning three floors sits in an elevated position overlooking an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, which informed the English country house aesthetic, a look the Sims Hilditch team are renowned for. Using the client’s favoured palette of fresh colour, inspired by living in the South of France, the studio set to work. Gema explains: ‘The client asked us to come up with a light and youthful interior scheme, using playful patterns to better reflect their lifestyle.’ On the ground floor, a study, family room and boot room radiate from a central reception hall. A spacious kitchen breakfast room, with far-reaching rural views on two sides, occupies one wing of the house. ‘We removed a contemporary kitchen, which seemed alien to the property, and replaced it with classic country-house cabinetry (Neptune furniture’s Suffolk range),’ explains Gema. The furniture is painted using two shades of blue, while Armac Martin handles, a copper sink and white work surfaces add personality. To one side is a pantry with chalkboard tiles and rhubarb hue walls. ‘Brave choices which thankfully the client loved,’ says Gema. ‘It’s 148 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Opener-Case-Study-V4-TD.indd 148
30/08/2024 13:34
PHOTOS: CHRIST HORWOOD
Sims Hilditch installed a proper country boot room featuring cabinetry by Neptune
PHOTOS: CHRIST HORWOOD
ON DESIGN CASEXXXXXX STUDY
so full of character’. In the boot room, clever storage is hidden behind traditional tongue and groove panelling. ‘We chose a scenic, fishing-inspired wallpaper by Lewis & Wood as there’s a lake in the grounds, which is a nice connection,’ says Gema. A sitting room in the oldest part of the house was given a bold touch with accents of blue and burnt orange, plus a handsome bespoke dresser. All the beams in the house are whitewashed in order to ‘knock back’ the colour of the oak, resulting in a more lived-in look. Upstairs, there’s the principal bedroom suite and further guest bedrooms, which Sims Hilditch decorated using an array of pretty wallpapers by English textile companies including Jane Churchill, Penny Morrison and Chelsea Textiles. Some bedrooms have bespoke joinery and occasionally a new addition such as in the master bedroom where bedside tables by Trove are finished with pink lacquer. Two bedrooms, one for each child and their bathroom, occupy the second floor with a little playroom at the end. ‘We re-worked a bed so it has a pull-out mattress if they have friends or cousins to stay,’ explains Gema. The room has a pitch ceiling, ‘which gave us the opportunity to take a creative approach and wallpaper the entire room and ceiling’. With the house renovation and redecoration complete, the family acquired a dog – the perfect finishing touch to an English country home. Job done. simshilditch.com n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 149
Opener-Case-Study-V4-TD.indd 149
30/08/2024 13:34
ON DESIGN STYLING
ZOFFANY Elswick paisley wallpaper, £175. zoffanysandersondesign.com
ALEXANDRA LLEWELLYN Summer table top backgammon, £3,900. alexandrallewellyn.com
BERT FRANK Triarc pendant light, £2,595. bertfrank.com
NAIM AUDIO Mu-So 2 wireless speaker, £1,218. naimaudio.com
BOYS’ TOYS VERPAN Easy chair, €3,550. verpan.com
A man cave for everyone (not just blokes). By Tessa Dunthorne
MATHSMOS Fireflow candle lava lamp, £48. mathsmos.com BLOOMSBURY REVISITED Lute lampshade, £140. bloomsbury revisited.com
CLIVE CHRISTIAN Step ladder, £1,250. clivechristianfurniture.com
A S K AN E XPE RT How to create a cooler kind of man cave? Ultimate Library’s Philip Blackwell weighs in
‘The term “Man Cave” evokes images of a dim retreat where one escapes stresses of daily life. Yet the true essence of such a space lies in thoughtful integration of ambient lighting and inviting seating (crucial for immersing oneself in a captivating book!). We worked on a study at Passalacqua Villa, blending a curated collection with neutral tones and warm wood to create a sophisticated atmosphere.’ 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Interiors-Man-Cave-V5-TD.indd 150
PHOTOS: ULTIMATE LIBRARY PROJECT AT PASSALCQUA VILLA
SOHO HOME Portnall bar cart, £1,695. sohohome.com
FARRAR & TANNER Pewter stag whisky glasses, £63. farrar-tanner.com
30/08/2024 11:30
PRESENTS The ultimate design and decoration show
16 – 20 SEPTEMBER AND INTRODUCING
FOCUS/24 The Longer View
23 SEPTEMBER – 11 OCTOBER
REGISTER NOW DCCH.CO.UK
Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 0XE +44 (0)20 7225 9166
DCCH.indd 1
21/08/2024 15:40
IT’S A WINNER The Greenwood family’s new kitchen is a slam dunk success, finds Carole Annett
The breakfast cupboard
PHOTOS: LIFE KITCHENS
‘R
arely do things turn out better than you imagined,’ says Caro Greenwood, wife of ex-England rugby international Will Greenwood, adding, ‘we could not be more delighted,’ as she surveys the new kitchen in their Victorian country house. Having decided to add a modern extension, the Greenwoods turned to family-run Life Kitchens to create a design that would ensure the new area worked as a cooking, eating, working and entertaining space. Will and Caro both work from home and their three children, aged 20, 18 and 15 come and go, often with friends in tow. Bueller the Jack Russell and Maud, a Romanian rescue dog, complete the line up. Keen to have a timeless look which would last for many years, they had a ‘do it once, do it well’ philosophy as, Caro explains: ‘it was a big investment... so we had to get it right.’ Caro and Will worked closely with Graeme Smith, head of design at Life Kitchens. ‘We were brought on board once the new glazed extension was under way. It’s a contemporary design with lots of natural 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Case-Study-Will-Greenwood-Kitchen-V3-TD.indd 152
30/08/2024 11:25
ON DESIGN CASEXXXXXX STUDY
PHOTOS: LIFE KITCHENS
light, and glazed doors leading from the hallway internally and externally out onto a terrace.’ The brief from the family was to create a social space that also includes a dining table and chairs, and soft seating area with fireplace and TV. The Life Kitchen cabinetry comprises four key areas: first, a run along the back wall which houses an Aga, secondly, a walk-in pantry nicknamed ‘Narnia’ (more on that later) and two breakfast cupboards, one with toaster, coffee machine etc, and one with provisions. Off to one side sits the third element, a team-size Fisher & Paykel fridge, and, finally, a vast island slathered on top and down each side with a Neolith worktop, made from natural materials to emulate the look of marble but far more hardwearing. Caro’s other essentials included two dishwashers, ‘essential for our family’, and plenty of storage. As well as the reconditioned Aga (by Blake & Bull), the cooking line-up includes a single oven, compact oven, warming drawer and Miele hob, plus a barbecue outside on the terrace. The cabinetry itself was chosen from Life’s 1909 Ovolo collection, a traditional Shaker-style in-frame with additional bead detail. ‘Classic styling with a
little bit of a modern edge,’ says Graeme, adding, ‘the handle choice is simple and straightforward.’ The Greenwoods’ house combines both standard and bespoke cabinetry for a unique finished result. Caro also opted for a custom paint colour and handpainted finish that means that, in years to come, if they wanted a different look, all it would take is a change of paint colour. When all the cabinet doors are closed the kitchen looks smart and minimal with its floor-to-ceiling design and no cornice. Open the doors, and functionality prevails with internal lighting, wooden racks and oak veneer shelves, and a bar cabinet with pocket doors which slide back into the casing to reveal a mirrored back panel, which reflects the garden outside. ‘Narnia’, the walk-in pantry, was created out of a nook where the old house met the new extension. ‘There was a funny little space due to an architectural quirk so we utilised it – when the doors are closed you don’t know it’s there,’ explains Caro. Ultimately, the Greenwood family adore their new space. ‘The kitchen works brilliantly,’ finishes Caro. ‘It looks so pretty and the cabinets are as beautiful inside as out, we love it.’ No wonder they’re smiling. n
The ‘Narnia’ pantry was a particular quirk of the kitchen’s layout – with the door closed, you wouldn’t know it was there
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 153
Case-Study-Will-Greenwood-Kitchen-V3-TD.indd 153
30/08/2024 11:25
PR O M OT I O N
YOUR NEW HOME? Triptych Bankside brings together the best of art, culture and design, with luxury apartments ready to move into now
T
riptych Bankside, an award-winning development by JTRE London, is located in the world-famous cultural hub of London’s South Bank. Designed by renowned architects Squire & Partners, it features three sweeping towers with 169 luxury apartments and a diverse range of retail options at ground level. The development recently welcomed Art Academy London’s new campus, adjacent to Tate Modern. This 15,000 sq/ft facility includes nine studios, an auditorium, specialist workshops, an art supplies shop, and a public gallery, serving both students and the local community. Potential buyers of Triptych Bankside’s remaining properties can take comfort in research from Creative Land Trust, which indicates a 44 percent price outperformance of homes in London’s creative clusters over the past decade compared to other areas. This trend highlights the strong connection between artistic workspaces and residential demand, showing a consistent annual price increase of 4.4 percent above the wider London market. Nigel Fleming, Managing Director at JTRE London, stated that, ‘Our flagship development Triptych Bankside has flourished, attracting a diverse range of residents, all attracted by the combination of exceptional architecture, development quality, specification and location.’ Triptych Bankside is also strategically
The apartments are brilliantly located in the heart of London, with incredible views
located near iconic landmarks like Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe, with easy access to Borough Market and numerous dining options. The area boasts excellent connectivity, with major train stations such as Waterloo, Blackfriars, and London Bridge within walking distance. The nearby Millennium Bridge offers a scenic route to the City, while the development itself includes co-working spaces equipped with plug-and-play workstations and highspeed broadband. The SE1 area is projected to be a strong investment opportunity, with Savills forecasting a 17.4 percent price growth and 7.2 percent rental growth from 2024 to 2028, bolstered by new projects like Bankside Yards and LSE Bankside House. Amenities at Triptych Bankside focus on well-being and community, featuring private lounges, a games room, a cinema, a 24-hour concierge, and landscaped gardens. The onsite gym by The Font includes Olympic-standard climbing walls, and the on-site Mediterranean deli, Uncommon, offers a place to relax and enjoy the highest quality food. Homes are available for immediate occupancy, with two-bedroom apartments starting from £1,735,000 and three-bedroom apartments from £2,745,000. For more information, visit triptychbankside.com or call +44 (0)20 7620 3424
154 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Triptych-V3-TD.indd 154
30/08/2024 12:39
Tailored, Curated, Inspired. Just three reasons to experience Triptych Bankside. Discover luxurious apartments and exciting independent retailers nestled in London’s cultural core, offering inspiring views from every perspective.
BOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT
020 7205 2043
SHOW APARTMENT LAUNCH - 19 SEPT Completed 2&3 Bedroom apartments from £1,735,000
ADV-Triptych-V3-TD.indd 155
30/08/2024 12:39
ON DESIGN PRODUCT SOUND OF SILENCE Cambridge audio P100 noise-cancelling headphones, £229. cambridge-audio.com
BRIIV EASIER Briiv filter with natural moss and fibre filters, £329. briiv.co.uk
SUBLIME SOUND Ruark Audio R410 Music System, £1,299. ruarkaudio.com
GADGETS ‘N’ GIZMOS
IN THE MIX Bosch series 6 stand mixer, £599.99. bosch-home.co.uk
Tessa Dunthorne picks the gear for a smarter kind of country home
A FLAT WHITE TO GO Dreo M1 milk frother available from 1 Oct, £119. dreo.com
ON THE DAILY GRIND Smeg mini pro espresso machine, £1,399. smeguk.com
SPA DAY Wildhut outdoor sauna, from £23,000. wildhut.com
KEYBOARD WARRIOR Logitech pop keys keyboard, £99. logitech.com AMERICAN HOT Limited edition Gozney x Hedley & Bennett Arc XL pizza oven, £799.99. gozney.com
GLOW WORM John Lewis rechargeable portable light, £65. johnlewis.com
A S K AN E XPE RT What is the essential tech for a modern country home? Najwa Mroue, Atelier NM, answers
‘For me, there are two essentials. 1) Underfloor heating – these spaces can be very cold and this works very well with the stone or tile floors often found in country homes. 2) Automated blinds/curtains. Country homes can be very large with very high ceilings, so this helps operate everything swiftly when you need to, while helping the fabric last longer.’ 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Interiors-Tech-V5-TD.indd 156
30/08/2024 11:32
Soho Lighting.indd 1
08/08/2024 14:27
ON DESIGN STYLING
GET YOUR SEA LEGS Mariette of 1915 Yacht, £POA. edmiston.com
SPILLS ON DECK Under the sea napkins, £1,320. bonadea.com
TOAST THE COAST Mouthblown wine glass, €180. lucieclaudia.com
NAUTI– COOL
BEACH BUM Amalfi blue beach towel, £50. christy.co.uk
Olivia Griffin hops on board the maritime trend
IN KNOTS Andre Tassel Fringe, £103 p/m. gpjbaker.com
HARBOUR ELEGANCE Yacht bathroom designed by Lawson Robb – for some opulent loo inspo... lawsonrobb.com
READY TO ROLL Shell brass toilet roll holder, £98. hastshilp.co.uk
WHAT A CATCH Le Saumon plate, from £60. harliebrownstudio.co.uk
SHE’S A PEARL Classic mother of pearl chest of drawers, £1,695. grahamandgreen.co.uk
CATCH RAYS Beaufort Sun Chaise, £13,000. mckinnonharris.com
GUIDING LIGHT Tor down wall light, £864. jadamsandco.com
A S K AN E XPE RT What’s a must-have in any country home? Juliette Byrne, interior designer, answers:
‘The entrance hall is a great place to add the wow factor when guests and family arrive. Add a visitors’ book and vase of flowers from the garden and some interesting object. Lamps, too. In the day they look fantastic and at night will give a gentle warm glow to the hallway. If the hallway is large enough then a circular antique round table can also look fantastic.’ 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Boats-V3-TD.indd 158
30/08/2024 11:33
Truffle Bee.indd 1
23/08/2024 10:01
ON DESIGN INTERVIEW
MY INTERIOR LIFE Getting to know renowned designer Kelly Hoppen
What’s your typical day like? I’m an early
What inspires you on a daily basis?
Inspiration can come from anything: in the home, in the office, or while walking through a market in London. I might be flicking through a book in the office and see a shape or colour that sparks a creative idea for a project. My studio is my haven, and I absolutely love my design time. However, on a daily basis, music is what truly inspires me when designing. I love R&B, funk and soul; designing to a beat and sounds I enjoy makes the creativity flow. Can you give us a peek into your address book? Milan has always been amazing, and I
go every year for the Salone design fair. One highlight is 10 Corso Como, which is more than just a store; it combines fashion, art, music, design and cuisine into a unique and immersive environment. I love browsing through the carefully curated selection of clothing, accessories and design objects. When it comes to accommodation, the Portrait Milano hotel is my 160 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
My-Interior-Life-V3-KB.indd 160
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The designer; M&S x Kelly Hoppen cushion, £29.50. marksandspencer.com; vintage Murano glass chandelier, £1,687. 1stdibs.com; Alcova, Kelly’s must-see destination during Milan Design Week
top choice, with a breathtaking courtyard and a lovely restaurant. The attention to detail in the design of the rooms and common areas reflects Milan’s reputation as a global design capital. Another must-visit during Milan Design Week is Alcova, which showcases the most innovative and experimental works in contemporary design.
Which pieces are you especially coveting right now? Vintage lighting and chandeliers
are having a big resurgence. Instead of crystal lighting, I have seen and used more Murano-type glass and Italian designs. A well-designed lighting scheme will elevate your home like no other element. Vintage, decorative lighting such as chandeliers is great when hung in an entrance, down a staircase, or over a round dining table to elevate a space and grab attention. With the endless options of theatrical lighting available to choose from, this means you can add a sense of drama to any area in the home, whilst using hidden and more concealed lighting and other task lighting for practical needs. M&S x Kelly Hoppen homeware range is available from 12 Sept. marksandspencer.com n
PHOTOS: © PIERGIORGIO SORGETTI; © DAVID VENNI
bird, so when my alarm goes off at 5.40am, and then again at 6.00am, I’m already awake. I do a short meditation, then have a cup of hot water with lemon and make coffee for myself and my partner, John. After that, we watch the news, relax and answer some emails. By 7.00, I’m in my gym focusing on resistance training, pilates and trampolining, which I love. If I feel good in my body, it strengthens my mind; I feel better, walk more confidently, and can bounce through the day with heaps of energy. As soon as I get to the studio, I sit down with my PA before catching up with my design team and heading into the studio, where I juggle the designs for multiple projects and collections. In the afternoons, I head into client meetings, which are often back-toback. When I finish work, I usually head home unless I’m going out for dinner or to an event. My evenings are usually very quiet and it’s the time I unwind and reset.
30/08/2024 11:31
Upgrade your everyday
When everyday life becomes an extraordinary moment. Discover the Duravit D-Neo series at duravit.co.uk
Duravit.indd 1
27/08/2024 12:19
W H I C H O N E ’ S O N YO U R
‘WAND E R-MU ST ’ LIST
I C O N I C LU X U RY H OT E L S An eclectic collection of unique properties, with personalities as distinctly individual as our guests. Effortless comfort, sublime locations, absorbing stories and a consistent ability to deliver the unexpected.
VISIT OUR WEBSITE F O R T H E L AT E S T N E W S AND OFFERS
ILH Country & Town House Advert.indd 1 Mayfair Townhouse/Iconic Luxury Hotels.indd 1
20/08/2024 16:51 21/08/2024 15:46
HOTELS &
TRAVEL ITALY SPECIAL
La Vita E BELLA
For his first child-free holiday with his wife, Alex McIntosh chose Italy – planning a north-to-south itinerary that would take them from the sophistication of Milan to the glittering coast of the Amalfi PHOTOS BY KERRY DEAN
The beautiful, ancient exterior of Castello di Vicarello in Tuscany
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 163
Italy-Polestar-V4-KB.indd 163
30/08/2024 11:35
HOTELS & TRAVEL | Italy Special
FROM TOP: Sunset from the terrace at Monastero Santa Rosa; the hotel’s infinity pool; Notos bar and restaurant at Six Senses Rome
I
taly is a country that opens its arms wide to children, but it’s also secretly thrilling to leave them at home and slip into la dolce vita grown-up style. It took us a few years to realise this but here we are child-free, with the open road before us, a gleaming electric Polestar 2 as our ride, and as many lie-ins as possible for the next seven days. A north-to-south discovery of the country is planned: driving from the sophisticated elegance of Milan to the mesmerising beauty of the Amalfi Coast, via verdant Tuscany and historic Rome. Parental guilt is overcome and range anxiety is quelled (Polestar 2 offers around 400 kilometres of charge). Off we go. First stop Milan, staying at the seven-room Vico Milano. A hidden gem tucked away in a quiet courtyard behind a busy thoroughfare, Vico was once a fashion showroom (what else?). Four-poster beds on raised mezzanines and an eye-popping art, photography and textile collection elevate it into a sumptuous city crash pad. Milan is Italy’s second-largest city and, of course, the country’s fashion capital. However short your stay, visit the Fondazione Prada, a gargantuan converted distillery reimagined by
groundbreaking architecture practice OMA as a multidisciplinary exhibition, cinema and event space. We immerse ourselves in the primary colour world of Italian sculptor Pino Pascali then take a load off at Bar Luce, designed by film director Wes Anderson. Great coffee, great lunch, great people watching. Leaving Milan behind and taking to the winding roads of Tuscany, aided by the Polestar’s Google-powered navigation and smooth road handling, we head south for around four hours to Vico Milano’s big sister, Castello di Vicarello. Located in the little-known region of Maremma in southern Tuscany, sparsely populated but home to some of Italy’s finest vineyards and least frequented beaches, Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti first came across this stunning but ruined hilltop castle in the 1980s. The couple were working in fashion and textiles, living between Milan and Bali, but relocated themselves and their three young sons to this idyllic, remote spot to begin a meticulous restoration project: first as a family home and later as a dreamy retreat for paying guests. The ten suites, some in the castle itself and others in the auxiliary buildings that nestle in the beautifully landscaped hillside below, are each distinct and unique. The secluded Spa Suite has a steam room, sauna and cold plunge pool overlooking the valley, while the opulently antique Suite Vicario in the castle itself features a grandiose medieval stone fireplace, copper bathtub and a bed on stilts with steps on each side to help you clamber aboard. The castle as a whole reflects the family’s multicultural early life with an eclectic mix of art, textiles and furnishings, both traditional and modern. Vicarello is the perfect place to unwind (and sleep); two marble pools, one heated, one not, suit bracing morning plunges and leisurely afternoon laps. Pre-dinner cocktails on the castle terrace are occasionally dramatised by a glimpse of a wild boar roaming in the forest clearings below. If you need more stimulation, there’s biking and hiking, truffle hunting (compete with the boars), wine tasting and cookery classes. Three hours further south lies the Italian capital. Rome is not a place readily associated with calm or ease of parking. Romantic, historic and glorious, yes; relaxing, no. The first city hotel in the exceptional Six Senses portfolio does offer solace and valet parking, though. Housed in an elegant Roman palazzo on Via Del Corso in the historical centre of Rome – the Trevi Fountain, Via Condotti and the Pantheon are steps away – it is the ideal place from which to explore, and also return to. Bivium, a relaxed all-day restaurant focused on organic and local ingredients with a Six Senses take on Italian classics, straddles the hotel lobby and internal courtyard. Try focaccia pizza with orange-scented pork neck and fennel cream from the wood-fired oven. A second restaurant, Notos, is opening later this year. It will doubtless be a hot ticket located on perhaps the best roof terrace in the city, overlooked by the imposing
164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Italy-Polestar-V4-KB.indd 164
30/08/2024 11:35
horsemen of the Vittorio Emanuele II monument and adjacent to the magnificent facade of San Marcello al Corso church, the renovation of which Six Senses sponsored as part of its commitment to neighbourhood regeneration. Unsurprisingly – we are at a Six Senses, after all – the spa provides an extensive and eclectic menu of treatments and experiences, from biohacking meditation and Tibetan sound bathing, to sleep analysis and aerial yoga. However, the crowning glory is the Roman Baths, an underground haven of deep tranquility and restoration, hewn from muted stone. Follow the flow from the calidarium to tepidarium and end in the frigidarium: the route to a gladiatorial constitution. Aristotle Onassis once said, ‘If you take a woman to the Amalfi and fail to seduce her, you are not a man at all.’ Lothario soundbites aside, it’s impossible not to fall in love with the region and its towering cliffs, sheltered coves and colourful towns. As we pass through Naples and Pompeii and navigate the hairpin bends and sheer drops to the dazzling sea below, the romance is tinged with terror but the Polestar keeps us on course. Our final destination, Monastero Santa Rosa, occupies an imposing position on a rocky promontory between Amalfi and Positano. The hotel retains a strong sense of its monastic heritage, and each of the 20 bedrooms has an original vaulted ceiling and is named after a plant or herb once grown and used by the nuns. Originally built in the late 17th century, Santa Rosa was first converted to a hotel in 1924 with the motto, ‘At each window, the sun. From each window, the sea’ – a perfect distillation of the experience as you walk the cool marble corridors punctuated with ecclesiastical antiques, abundant plants and contemplative sitting spots. The famous Neoplitan pastry Sfogliatella Santa Rosa (a must for an indulgent breakfast treat) was first created by the nuns for their ailing Reverend Mother and this tradition of culinary innovation
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Parked up in the Polestar to admire the Tuscan countryside; the courtyard of Castello di Vicarello; Vico Milano
is very much alive and well today in the Michelinstarred restaurant. Chef Alfonso Crescenzo, an Amalfi native with an international CV, uses produce from the hotel’s organic gardens and from his own family farm Terre Lavatore in nearby Sarno. A jar of Terre Lavorate ragu pomodoro offered as a parting gift is a lovely touch. You can also let the hotel charter you a boat to explore the caves and coves, or organise a guided hike to take in the staggering array of vistas along the many famous walking routes that circumnavigate this epic coastline. Santa Rosa is a place you won’t want to leave and a quick flick through the visitor’s book tells you that everyone who stays here feels the same. But leave we must. Small children await. The glossy Polestar must be returned. Italy - we came, we saw, we slept. Thank you. BOOK IT: Vico Milano, doubles from £307. vicomilano.com; Castello di Vicarello, doubles from £890. castellodivicarello.com; Six Senses Rome, doubles from £953. sixsenses.com; Monastero Santa Rosa, doubles from £610. monasterosantarosa.com
Alex’s return flights had a carbon footprint of 775kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 165
Italy-Polestar-V4-KB.indd 165
30/08/2024 11:35
HOTELS & TRAVEL | Italy Special
LIFE IN VENICE
See La Serenissima like you never have before with resident Mimi Todhunter as your guide…
What’s your first piece of advice for someone who’s never been to Venice before? Take the
vaporetto (water bus) line 1 and sit outside to enjoy the whole length of the Grand Canal as far as San Marco. If you’re coming from the airport, taking a private water taxi will make you feel like a film star.
And what about for those who have been plenty of times? Rent an apartment somewhere like the
beautifully renovated 15th-century Palazzo Garzoni on the Grand Canal and live like a Venetian. Shop at the Rialto market, one of the oldest in Italy, and go to a football match in Italy’s second oldest stadium for the sheer pleasure of the atmosphere. A visit inside fabric maker Bevilacqua to see its 18th-century looms and exquisite handmade velvets is an off-the-beaten-track treat, as is a private tour of Palazzo Grimani hosted by Director of Venetian Heritage Toto (Francesco) Bergamo Rossi, which is only possible if you have the right contacts. Packing tips? Dress elegantly. So many people come to Venice so disrespectfully dressed. I think this city calls for elegance. And remember this is northern Italy: we are under the Dolomites and sitting out in the lagoon we are exposed to winds and humidity, so always pack a shawl even in summer. Where in the city can you always find peace, far from the madding crowds? Take
What’s the perfect evening out in Venice? Try the newly opened
a walk along Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta at the Venice Lido or head to the wilder beach of Alberoni, at the very south end. Tell us your best bit of Venice gossip? Peggy Guggenheim was known for the terrible food she served at her dinner parties, but the art made up for it! Historically, Venice attracts extraordinary and eccentric characters. The latest gossip from the cultural scene is that Paul Acton is rebuilding the original theatre, San Cassiano. It was the first opera house in the world, built in 1637 and demolished in 1812. Alessio Carbone and Gerardine Connolly are also raising funds to reinstate the ballet company in Venice.
Venice Venice Hotel on the Grand Canal. Upstairs on Wednesdays, there’s a sushi night with DJs.
Who should we try and bump into? Try to attend gallery
openings where there is always a lovely mix of locals and artists from around the world, like Anish Kapoor or art collector Nicolas Berggruen, who have both opened foundations in Venice.
Tell us a secret about Venice that no guidebook will tell
us... Take a late-night walk around San Marco, waiting for the midnight bell that historically marked the end of the 12hour shift at Arsenale, Venice’s shipbuilding factory. It is even more glorious under a full moon.
Where do you recommend staying for a really authentic experience? Stay at Venice Lido, only a
15-minute vaporetto ride from San Marco but still local in feel.
We love to shop – but only in the most fabulous places. What do you recommend? With Scott
Dunn Private, I can take you to places which are often not open to the public. Venice is a place with so many incredible creatives. Take home a pair of cult Venetian slippers from Piedàterre, drinking glasses from NasonMoretti, an assortment of glassware from Yali, or stripy creations from France Thierard.
BOOK IT: Scott Dunn Private offers three FROM TOP: Mimi Todhunter lives in Venice and can guide you around as part of Scott Dunn Private; Palazzo Garzoni exterior and interior
nights at Palazzo Garzoni, Venice from £6,100 per couple, including return flights and private boat transfers. scottdunn.com
Return flights to Venice have a carbon footprint of 348kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com n
166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Italy-Venice-V4-KB.indd 166
30/08/2024 11:36
COMO Cocoa Island Image credit: Martin Morrell
Ultimate Experiences | Unforgettable Moments | Everlasting Memories
01244 897 569 elegantresorts.co.uk @elegantresorts
Elegant Resorts.indd 1
06/08/2024 10:30
PR O M OT I O N
PICTURE THIS
It’s the last chance to build the house of your dreams at Quinta Do Lago
S
et amid 2,000 acres of breathtaking forest, dunes and salt marshes in Portugal’s Ria Formosa Natural Park is Quinta do Lago, a luxurious golf, leisure and lifestyle development over 50 years in the making. The exclusive resort is highly sought-after by buyers all over the world, thanks to its gorgeous setting, its low-rise, low-density building regulations, and its ecological, nature-first stance. And now it’s your last chance to buy a virgin plot in this highly desired resort. North Grove is a brand new development of 13 untouched plots overlooking Quinta do Lago’s iconic North Course. These plots offer square footage ranging from 1,495 sq/m to 1,688 sq/m, and are designed for private detached villas with two levels with no architectural design restrictions – meaning buyers can create the first or second home of their dreams in this prestigious resort. Quinta do Lago’s residents also benefit from easy access to all of the estate’s luxury facilities and amenities, including its award-winning golf courses, sublime restaurants, a boutique hotel, golden sand beach, and a premier sports hub, The Campus, with a gym, tennis and padel courts, swimming pool, cycling, group classes and personal training, recovery suites and sports rehabilitation. ‘The launch of North Grove follows the significant demand for virgin plot developments within our resort – and many have been waiting for us to release more stock since they missed out on the San Lorenzo North plots in 2019,’ says Sean Moriarty, CEO of Quinta do Lago. ‘Despite ongoing demand, we have always released our products gradually as per our master plan and this enables us to preserve our natural surroundings. North Grove will appeal to developers, primary and second-home buyers alike – as they receive complete autonomy to build, design and style their own luxury property within one of the most sought
The last 13 virgin plots are now up for sale at this pristine Portuguese resort
after regions of Europe. Each plot of untouched land can be tailored completely to a buyer’s lifestyle and will be surrounded by natural beauty, with all the amenities of our resort right at their fingertips.’ But you’ll have to be quick – the 13 idyllic North Grove plots are sure to be snapped up by eager buyers keen to create a gorgeous home in this unparalleled location. Plots at North Grove are available exclusively through Quinta do Lago Real Estate. For more information on the real estate at Quinta do Lago please contact realestate@quintadolago.com or call +351 289 392 754
168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-Quinta-Do-Lago-V3-TD.indd 168
30/08/2024 12:41
Italy Special | HOTELS & TRAVEL
TESTING the WATER Avoid the crowds and discover Lake Como off season at Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, says Margaret Hussey
You’ll be cocooned in comfort and luxury at this storied hotel
P
lunging into the waters of Lake Como, we squealed with delight. It was our final day and we had plucked up the courage to jump in, spurred on by a heavenly few days of R&R at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. Over 1.4 million people visit the fork-shaped Lake Como every year. We went off season, managing to avoid the summer crowds while experiencing a mish-mash of weather. But that didn’t matter. There’s something very therapeutic about being by water, even during dramatic thunderstorms, while being cocooned somewhere quite so lovely. Cocooned is the operative word at Villa Serbelloni. Our beds had 100 percent linen sheets with hand-sewn silk – Como is known for its silk – and goose feather eiderdowns. Our suite had gilt mirrors, a beautiful antique writing desk and gorgeous textured wallpaper. The hotel celebrated 150 years last year and you feel a real sense of elegance and history, while knowing it’s welcomed royalty, European nobility and Hollywood stars over the years. Winston Churchill stayed here, as did John F Kennedy during his famous ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’ tour in June 1963. Both have suites named after them. Look out, too, for the pictures of Al Pacino, who filmed Bobby Deerfield here in 1977 and later returned as a guest. As for eating, you’re spoilt for choice. La Goletta is the more casual restaurant where you can expect traditional dishes like lasagne washed down with a bottle of delicious local red. Mistral is much more fine dining. Headed by chef Ettore Bocchia, a huge name in Italy for his molecular cooking and gastronomic know-how, he uses the best local ingredients with a five-star twist. Confections such as black truffle or wild turbot cooked in sugar with potato foam await, and do order the nitrogen frozen ice cream for some culinary theatrics, tableside. There’s swimming, tennis and squash on offer to work off the calories, but really you want to discover Como. Walk through Bellagio – the hotel is at one end of the village – onto Villa Melzi and its impressive gardens. It’s said to have provided inspiration for the composer Franz Liszt as well as French writer Stendhal. The garden is a riot of colour with everything
from azaleas to rhododendrons, olive trees to maples. Take a peek at its chapel to see the most intricate curtains made out of Italian black marble – they are breathtaking. Varenna is a great spot for shopping, especially when you can catch a stylish Riva boat from the hotel’s jetty. Stock up on lovely leather goods and brightly coloured handbags as well as delicious gelato. With so many visitors coming, demand for rooms in Como is high. The Ritz-Carlton is due to open in Bellagio in 2026 on the site of the historic Belle Époque Hotel Grande Bretagne, and Edition Hotels is set to open a 145-room hotel in Cadenabbia in 2025 in an attempt to draw a younger crowd. But I’d happily be drawn back to the hug of Villa Serbelloni with its magic combination of five-star opulence and homely Italian welcome. BOOK IT: Doubles from approx £602, B&B. villaserbelloni.com
Margaret travelled from London by train via Paris and Zurich, taking 14 hours. The trip has a carbon footprint of 65.4kg of CO2e n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 169
Serbelloni-V4-KB.indd 169
30/08/2024 11:36
HOTELS & TRAVEL | Italy Special
Picture Perfect
D
Film star looks and five-star service awaits Carole Annett at Francis Ford Coppola’s Italian passion project, Palazzo Margherita
wood writing desk. In the bathroom what initially resembled riving from Amalfi to Bernalda, the hilltop town in the striped wallpaper on closer inspection turned out to be exquisite arch of Italy’s boot and birthplace of Francis Ford Coppola’s stone detailing – strips of granite and marble, from dado to grandfather, Agostino, is an interesting lesson in both floor culminating in a thick door frame. Each room has its own geography and in understanding the importance of la personality, beautifully accessorised with divine smelling toiletries, famiglia to Italians. From the picturesque coastal villages little linen bags containing bath salts and cotton wool, and a of the riviera, buildings clutching the hillside in an array of pastel candle to burn while you bathe. A yoga mat and pool towels in shades replicated in every local gelateria, as you head further south, the landscape melts from vertical to a flatter vista. Just as the sun’s the wardrobe offer a hint to what guests enjoy while here – gentle focus moves from tanning the limbs of tourists to ripening lines of R&R. Throughout the property, floors and frescoes have all been olive and fruit trees, it begins to feel more agricultural. Basilicata restored from the original and where there is a new addition, it is is a largely undiscovered region and when you arrive in Bernalda, so beautifully considered that it’s hard to tell old from new. Palazzo Margherita is run by a small group of staff led by or rather, ‘Bernalda bella’, as Coppola’s grandfather and he himself Rossella de Filippo. Their faces soon become familiar – Domenico says, it’s as if time has stood still. and Francesca wait tables and serve drinks, while chef Sephora Whether you get here via an extended road trip or by plane (Bari and Brindisi airports are 90 minutes away), don’t expect signage leads the pasta making, a ritual for guests. The majority are from heralding the town’s famous Hollywood connection. The only clue Bernalda and, if not the village, certainly the region. They take you to the beach (20 minutes by car), drive you to Sassi di Matera, to the entrance of Palazzo Margherita is four terracotta-coloured a UNESCO World Heritage Site (a little further but well worth parasols in front of a door featuring an Egyptian-head door-knocker and a small gold name plaque. The doors are opened by a liveried it), set you off on one of the palazzo’s bicycles, and encourage you member of staff – while guests may choose relaxed attire, the staff to visit the local cheesemaker. They guide you round the exquisite gardens, pointing out where Sophia Coppola married Phoenix are immaculately turned out thanks to Coppola’s own tailor, who frontman Thomas Mars under a jasmine-covered gazebo, and show will gladly visit should you require anything for yourself. off the swimming pool (the only one in Bernalda) before leaving Once inside you finally get to take in the scene. And it’s beautiful. Simple and quintessentially Italian, the entrance hall with frescoed you to discover more little follies where you can dine or simply sit ceiling and elaborate hanging lamp opens into a sun-filled courtyard with a book and glass of wine. dotted with tables and chairs, framed overhead by a stone arch, As one would expect, the food and wine offering is sublime – simple dishes made with seasonal produce, often from the garden, bougainvillea cascading over the top. Music drifts in with the with pizza if the oven is fired. At breakfast the kitchen offers breeze. You instantly understand why the property touched an array of fruit, cakes and local cheeses including scamorza the film director’s heart, despite its initial disrepair. and treccia (from the mozzarella family). Guests eat at the Having visited Bernalda for many years, he acquired kitchen table or in the courtyard where tables are set with the 19th-century palazzo from the Margherita family in starched white linens, and Domenico on hand to proffer 2004. It has ‘good bones’, as an architect would say. It took eggs and cappuccino. If I checked the What3Words five years, with the help of celebrated interior designer app, I’m sure it would read: organic, local, heavenly. We Jacques Grange, along with the input of Coppola’s enjoyed Pollo alla Lucana, chicken cooked slowly with children, to restore the house to its former glory. vegetables, numerous pasta dishes and lampascioni ‘I wanted it to feel like it used to,’ he explains. Very much a family house, Palazzo fritti (a local variety of onion, deep fried). After dinner you can retire to the salon and curl up Margherita opened to visitors in 2012 and is with one of Coppola’s favourite Italian films by Fellini, definitely more home than hotel. There are nine Rossellini or indeed the man himself. Watching The rooms and suites, varying in size in respect of the Godfather in Coppola’s own house felt surreal but original architecture, plus three bars (including it made me think that with Palazzo Margherita, a café/bar open to non-residents accessed via Coppola is mirroring the role of Brando’s Corleone – the street). A large desk on a first floor landing minus the violence obviously – he’s looking after his acts in lieu of reception. Suite Nine is Coppola’s family. And not just nearest and dearest but also the bedroom featuring a Moorish design in honour extended family in this tiny area of Italy at its most of his Tunisian-born grandmother, Maria Zasa, while Suite Eight, Gia, is named after Coppola’s authentic, where, like the ancient olive trees in the granddaughter and perhaps the most romantic garden, the Coppola roots run deep. with painted scenes of mythological figures. In BOOK IT: From approx £352 per Sophia’s suite, walls are adorned with pale pink and blue frescoes and delicate painted fretwork. night (minimum three nights). Sofia Coppola, whose Most rooms have access to an area of shady terrace. thefamilycoppolahideaways.com family owns Palazzo Our room, Suite Seven, designed in collaboration Margherita with son Roman, has a sleek art-deco vibe, an Carole’s return flights had a carbon footprint old Monaco Formula I race poster and dark of 492.2kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com n 170 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Villa-Margarita-V5-PB.indd 170
30/08/2024 11:37
PHOTOS: SOPHIA COPPOLA © SHUTTERSTOCK
The family home of the Coppolas, Palazzo Margherita has just nine rooms and suites
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 171
Villa-Margarita-V5-PB.indd 171
30/08/2024 11:37
PR O M OT I O N
AN INSPIRED LIFE Let PoB Hotels help you reconnect with what matters
F
or those seeking an inspired life, PoB Hotels offers a unique opportunity to embrace life’s pleasures while exploring the beauty of the British Isles. Each of PoB’s over 50 independent hotels is totally unique in location and character, so there’s something for every guest, no matter their interests or passions. There’s a diverse range of accommodation, from charming castles in the north to seafront lodges along the southern coast, and each hotel is carefully selected for its exceptional character and the inspiring experiences it offers. Whether you’re drawn to fine dining, outdoor activities, or the allure of historical sites, PoB Hotels has something to ignite your passion and creativity. For example, PoB’s newest ambassador, TV presenter George Clarke, was inspired by heritage and architecture in his trip across the South East of England, while Olympian Victoria Pendleton’s Cotswolds break lead her to revisit favourite sports and discover new ones. Guests can also indulge in PoB Hotels’ Curated Breaks. If you’re a foodie, then the ‘Hedonist’s Dream’ is for you, taking in the gourmet highlights of the South East, stopping at five hotels, and offering suggestions for tasty pitstops en route.
Or, if you’re in need of some R&R, there’s ‘Northbound Wellness’, which takes guests on a tour of Yorkshire, County Durham and the Lake District, via some of the regions’ most exclusive spa hotels. Alternatively, you can explore PoB’s fun interactive map online, which showcases the locations of each of its 54 hotels around Britain, and use it to plot out your ideal custom route, tailored to you. Whether you choose to explore the vibrant culture of London, the serene beauty of the Cotswolds, or the rugged landscapes of Scotland, PoB Hotels is dedicated to helping you discover what inspires you most. Curate your dream break at pobhotels.com From city breaks to spa retreats, PoB Hotels has the escape for you
172 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
ADV-PoB-Hotels-V2-TD.indd 172
30/08/2024 12:41
News | HOTELS & TRAVEL STAY WHITE
Founded by record-breaking polar explorer Patrick Woodhead nearly two decades ago, White Desert was the first operator to build a luxury semi-permanent camp and to pioneer the use of sustainable aviation fuel in Antarctica. Originally focused only on tourism, but now also delivering scientists to their research bases, the company – which has been carbon neutral since 2007 – has now launched the White Desert Foundation to support scientific research, provide monetary grants for projects combating climate change, and develop a guest education programme. ‘It is impossible to operate in Antarctica without being absorbed by the conversation around climate change,’ says Patrick. ‘We believe we must maintain a mindset of perpetual innovation and do more. The foundation’s role in promoting innovation in education, renewable energy and carbon sequestration will be pivotal to this.’ white-desert.com
The ESCAPIST Lauren Ho has all the latest travel news
WOMEN SUPPORTING WOMEN IN SAUDI ARABIA
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
ROLL UP YOUR GREEN SLEEVES
Copenhagen has 546km of bicycle paths, a fleet of electric ferries, and a majority of the city’s hotel rooms are eco-certified. Taking things a step further, its official tourism organisation, Wonderful Copenhagen, is enticing visitors to make conscious choices with the launch of CopenPay, which transforms sustainable deeds into currency for cultural experiences. Cycling, participating in clean-up efforts or volunteering at urban farms will be rewarded with guided museum tours, free kayak rentals or vegetarian lunches made from local ingredients. wonderfulcopenhagen.com 173 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM |
Escapist-V3-KB.indd 173
With women now representing 30 percent of the tourism and hospitality workforce in Saudi Arabia, the aim of Intrepid Travel’s new women’s-only itinerary is to offer an authentic and transformative travel experience while supporting female-owned businesses in the country. Developed alongside a female-owned local operator, the 12-day itinerary begins in Riyadh and finishes in Jeddah, visiting places like the Nabataean site of Hegra and Madinah, the second holiest site in Islam after Mecca. From £4,795pp. intrepidtravel.com September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 173
30/08/2024 11:34
HOTELS & TRAVEL | News
FIVE HOT NEW OPENINGS
TREEHOUSE HOTEL, Manchester, UK This new 224-room property incorporates energy and carbon savings, with living green walls and a roof garden. From £199. treehousehotels.com
ON YOUR BIKE
After quitting his London desk job in 2009 to cycle solo to Australia, Oli Broom made it his mission to take people to beautiful parts of the world by bicycle. The Slow Cyclist covers destinations from Greece and Turkey to South Africa and Rwanda, and Broom believes a great holiday means getting under the skin of a place, meeting its people, indulging in its culture and understanding its history and customs. The company has launched a new six-night guided journey through the northern Armenian Highlands, where guests will cycle and walk along old Soviet-era roads, passing through rolling hills, forests and meadows, while discovering the country’s complex history, monasteries and churches, snow-capped peaks and charming cities. From £3,250pp. theslowcyclist.com
GUNDARI, Folegandros, Greece Set within a bird nature reserve, this has 27 suites and villas, each with private infinity pools overlooking the Aegean Sea. £520, gundari.com
SIX SENSES LA SAGESSE, Grenada The group’s Caribbean debut is designed to mimic a local village, with 56 guest rooms and a host of wellness offerings. From £788, B&B. sixsenses.com
QUINTA DO PARAL, Vidigueira, Portugal Surrounded by 56-hectares of vineyards, this beautiful wine-centric hotel is the perfect escape for oenophiles. From €450. quintadoparal.com
SET SAIL IN A SAUNA
With wellness a top priority for many travellers, it was a no-brainer for Nathan and Chloe to design and build Kuuma - Australia’s first sauna boat, which was built from scratch in a year. The couple say that Kuuma is about ‘creating a space for relaxation and mindfulness; it is a place where reconnecting with nature, ourselves and each other is possible.’ Set on Margate Marina, just a 20-minute drive south of Hobart, Kuuma offers 1.5-hour communal or private sauna sessions to various locations in the North West Bay, all against sweeping views of the Tasmanian landscape. From $55AUD. kuuma.com.au
HIGHLAND BASE, Kerlingarfjöll, Iceland The perfect spot from which to watch the Northern Lights, hike, or relax in the geothermal baths. From £375. highlandbase.is n
174 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Escapist-V3-KB.indd 174
30/08/2024 11:34
Discover Extraordinary.
SCAN TO START PLANNING THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME
Make memories that last a lifetime
Explore Unlimited Opportunities
Grand Tours
Voyages
Safaris
Road Trips
Train Journeys
Family Holidays
Cultural Holidays
Trekking
01285 402195 | www.steppestravel.com
Steppes FP advert C&TH 08.24 v2.indd 1 Steppes Travel NEW.indd 1
23/08/2024 08:55 27/08/2024 10:29
Round the RAGGED ROCKS Kate Eshelby explores the bewitching mountains of northern Oman PHOTOS BY K ATE ESHELBY
Experiencing the adrenaline rush of Snake Canyon
The historic village of Misfat Al Abriyeen
E
merald-green terraces punch out of the otherwise arid landscape, a vibrant miracle, as they tumble down the mountainsides. Early morning, no one else is around as I descend the steep stone steps through this tropical Shangri-La in the heart of Oman’s Hajar Mountains. These lush, tiered gardens, feathered with date palms, were hand-carved out of this rocky terrain centuries ago. Together with my husband, Mark, and two children, Zac and Archie, we’re exploring these soaring mountains across northern Oman, staying in guesthouses. First is Misfah Old House, in the historic village of Misfat Al Abriyeen. Most of the original inhabitants have moved nearby to modern housing since the 1970s, when the previous leader, Sultan Qaboos, brought dramatic changes to the country. But the villagers still return to tend their farms, although most of the work is now done by migrant labour, mainly from Bangladesh.
We climb down a twisting path through a cascade of mud and stone houses to reach the traditional village. Suddenly, we turn a corner to a drop of gleaming green, like Oman’s own Hanging Gardens of Babylon – among which our guesthouse hides. One way to preserve Oman’s many abandoned, adobe buildings is tourism: Misfah was the country’s first old house to be turned into heritage lodging. Inside the guesthouse, King Charles beams out at us, from a framed photo of a visit he made here. The bedrooms have numerous alcoves carved into the walls, typical of old Omani architecture, and big clay urns, once used to store dates, stand in the corners. Meals are eaten on a roof terrace with far-reaching mountain views. Later, Yaqoob Alabri, a guide, leads us on a stroll through the farms, fringed by aflaj – an ancient irrigation system. Water is brought up from the mountain’s deep belly, via underground tunnels, before flowing
176 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Oman-V3-AB.indd 176
30/08/2024 11:38
Oman | HOTELS & TRAVEL into gravity-powered channels, which curve for miles like a giant marble run. Aflaj are ubiquitous throughout Oman and five of them are recognised as Unesco World Heritage Sites. ‘The water is shared using an age-old calendar and everyone knows their designated time slot,’ Yaqoob says, clad in a long, white dishdash (the typical gown worn by men). Not so long-ago, camel caravans still wound across Oman’s deserts carrying dates and frankincense. One of the most striking things about Oman is how recently it’s transformed. ‘Qaboos built the country from nothing,’ Yaqoob says. ‘Before 1970, we had no roads, schools or hospitals.’ And until the early 1990s no tourists were allowed to visit. Yet, even with the rapid changes, Qaboos has ensured that this oil-rich land remains a last bastion of old Arabia and the culture is proudly maintained. Despite its aridity, the country, which curls around the toe of the boot-shaped Arabian Peninsula, boasts a diverse landscape. You can swim with turtles in turquoise seas, climb dunes in the world’s largest sand desert, and explore cloud-forest mountains that are home to the endangered Arabian leopard. It’s also incredibly safe to travel around – although this wasn’t always the case. Oman is full of historic fortifications because of its once-rival tribes and past invaders. One morning, we walk to Ain Al Lathpeh, the spring that sustains the surrounding farms. We pass several ruined watchtowers along the way, which once stood guard over the waterways. As we trace the aflaj, wandering amid corridors of palms that resemble verdant jungles, huge clusters of mangos hang over the crystalclear water and our boys delight in a game of Poohsticks. Blue and red dragonflies sparkle like gems, and butterflies fill the flowers. That afternoon, we hike around the rim of 1,000m-deep Wadi Ghul, known as Oman’s Grand Canyon, to a deserted village, constructed into the cliff’s overhang. The layers of the canyon walls frill out like a flamenco dancer’s skirts, bright gold in the evening light. Over aeons of years, water has sculpted spectacular, deep wadis (river valleys in Arabic), through Oman’s landscape – millennia ago, Oman’s climate was much wetter.
Sulaiman Al Riamy sorting roses
Nearby, Snake Canyon cuts into the mountains, where olive and juniper trees cling to the rocky slopes in fairy-tale-like scenery. We spend a day with adventure guide Yusuf Al Kindi, swimming through a string of pools, leaping from high ledges into the cool water below and abseiling down waterfalls. I feel alive and pumped with adrenalin. This is nature’s water park, with rocks eroded into natural slides, which our children love. Our final place is the Hanging Terraces guesthouse – a sheer, two-hour drive away – in the Jabal Akhdar Mountains. Here, palms are replaced by pomegranate, walnut, and apricot trees because it’s over 2,000m above sea level. The guesthouse is the owner Ali Yahya Al Amri’s restored family home with thick, walnut-wood doors and shuttered windows. A roof terrace looks out over multiple layers of Barbie-pink rose gardens that plunge into the gorge below. In these elevated enclaves, the age-old craft of distilling damask roses in traditional mud ovens continues. We’re invited into the home of Ali’s brother-in-law, Sulaiman Al Riamy, where Ali Yahya Al Amri, owner of the a carpet of fragranced flowers covers the floor, Hanging Terraces guesthouse and learn about the myriad uses of the smokyflavoured rose water: in halwa, a popular Omani dessert, coffee, and for medicine. ‘Even Queen Cleopatra bathed in it as part of her beauty routine,’ Ali says. As I meander back through the exotic gardens, they evoke paradise – a term originally derived from the Persian word for an enclosed garden. These vibrant places are encapsulated within the rugged embrace of the rocky desert. I just hope that as Oman shifts from oil, its new focus on tourism remains sustainable and it keeps its pristine landscapes, which are some of the most beautiful on earth. BOOK IT: Seven nights at the Misfah Old House and Hanging
Terraces, including flights from London with Oman Air and eight day’s car-hire starts at £3,815 per person or £12,620 for a family of four (originaltravel.co.uk). Kate stayed in Muscat at Jumeirah Bay, family suites from £670 per night (jumeirah.com). The gardens surrounding Misfah Old House
Kate’s return flights to Oman had a carbon footprint of 6,944kg CO2e. ecollectivecarbon.com n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 177
Oman-V3-AB.indd 177
30/08/2024 11:38
HOTELS & TRAVEL | Column
The TRIP
Francisca Kellett explores how the super-rich like to travel now
Cookson Adventures organised an epic wilderness trek through Norway with ex-special forces guides
Y
A helicopter excursion from Minaret Station in New Zealand, organised by Audley Travel
The 28-day Diamonds/Wild Tales + Lost Trails trip, for example, takes travellers up close and personal with Brazil’s Serra do Espinhaço region. Costing £29k per person, guests traverse mountains, summit peaks, trek through wild national parks, sleep in tents and wash in streams. No 1,000-count Egyptian cotton sheets and Champagne sundowners for them – and that’s the whole point, says Lott. ‘[This] is a real adventure, driven by meaning and purpose. You’re here to experience a place as much as possible geographically, culturally, ecologically.’ If that sounds like too much hard work, luxury operators are pivoting towards another trend in ultra-high-end holidays
PHOTOS: PEXELS; © MINARET STATION
ou’ve got a spare £100k to spend on a holiday. What to do? Skydive into an Arctic adventure? Translocate 14 rhino across Africa? Gallivant across central America on a real-life treasure hunt? No problem, say the travel fixers to a new breed of super rich. How Ultra High Net Worths (UHNWs) splash their cash on their travels is changing. Glitzy resorts and ostentatious hotels are out; mind-blowing experiences and behind-the-scenes access in – the more off-the-chart the better. ‘It is the unique access and the rare feeling that you are somewhere that perhaps no one else has been,’ says Henry Cookson, the founder of Cookson Adventures (cooksonadventures.com). Henry knows exactly how to cater to that cash-rich, adventurehungry market, to the tune of about £150k a pop. One recent trip, for a group of UHNW thrill-seekers, included using ex-special forces guides to tandem skydive the guests into the Norwegian wilderness before kayaking, climbing, running and jet-skiing across an archipelago. ‘They were staying in mountain huts, sleeping in tents hanging off a sheer cliff wall – not for the fainthearted – and in private beach camps along the way.’ For Gift of Go (thegiftofgo.com), the experience, no matter the price tag, is everything. Offering epic expeditions in little-known parts of the world, co-founder Eddie Lott says these new types of ultra-adventures are a big departure from traditional luxury holidays. ‘[Tour] operators often seek to shield travellers from the genuine qualities of the settings where they operate,’ he says. 178 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
The-Trip-V3-AB.indd 178
30/08/2024 11:41
– behind-the-scenes access, getting you into places that others can’t. Audley Travel (audleytravel.com) has launched a concierge service, where private travel managers create exclusive experiences tailored to their clients’ interests. ‘This could be lunch on a mountain-top reached by helicopter, or their choice of seats at next year’s Lions tour of Australia,’ says James Pook, head of Audley Private Concierge. Another top-end operator, Red Savannah (redsavannah.com), arranged a private backstage tour of Paris’s Opera Garnier for a couple and their 12-year-old ballet-crazy, Phantom of the Opera mega-fan daughter. Not only did she get to see where the costumes, tutus and wigs are made for the ballerinas, but she could try on an outfit before touring the subterranean lake beneath the Opera – the setting that inspired the Phantom of the Opera. Pelorus (pelorusx.co) focuses on hyper-personalisation, often at sea and with a conservation angle. ‘We’ve seen a 200 percent increase in conservation-led experiences since the pandemic,’ says founder Geordie MackayLewis, such as a trip that allowed clients to carry out field research with a world-leading wild dog expert in Botswana. Every trip takes forensic levels of research and planning, such as for the family that loves escape rooms, for whom they created a treasure hunt across Costa Rica, complete with yacht, pirate’s map, clues and actors on the ground. For Stephanie Capuano, co-founder of &Three Collective (andthreecollective.com), which arranges luxury African safaris, it’s all about who you know. ‘Everyone has access to helicopters, boats, etc, these days. The difference is knowing the right people who will share their unique spots to land the helicopter, the secret beach in South Africa to have a top chef cook mussels over a fire, the private collection of art in Cape Town in a friend’s home,’ she says. And then there’s the latest in souvenirs: a Hollywoodstandard movie of your trip. Cookson Adventures offers exactly that, with an in-house media team accompanying trips to capture their clients’ adventures, whether it’s climbing an ice wall or diving with whale sharks. ‘On their return, we present them with a film of their adventure so they can return to the emotions of that moment at home,’ says Henry. The ultimate travel brag: a blockbuster starring you. Priceless.
A Pelorus trip to Botswana
Red Savannah organised an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the Opera Garnier in Paris
PHOTOS: PEXELS; © MINARET STATION
BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE MUSEUM A more affordable way to get exclusive access to a world-class site is available with a new offering from Montague on the Gardens. The boutique hotel in Bloomsbury has partnered with the British Museum to provide a private behind-the-scenes World War II-themed tour. The best part: you get to wander its hallowed halls for a full hour before the museum opens to the public. Accompanied by an expert Blue Plaque guide, guests are ushered through an off-limits tunnel entrance, exploring the bowels of the museum and learning how curators conserved its priceless eight-million-strong collection during World War II. As well as learning fascinating anecdotes about how the collection was moved, and the bombs that set alight the British Library collection, you get to marvel at the secret basements and walk through a hidden door camouflaged by a bookcase in the Enlightenment Gallery, as well as dash to the Egyptian Room before the crowds arrive. BOOK IT: Doubles from £276 B&B; the tour costs £950 for up to 12 guests. montaguehotel.com n September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 179
The-Trip-V3-AB.indd 179
30/08/2024 11:41
Postcards From... Marbella Club, Spain. Fee Drummond celebrates the 70th birthday of Europe’s hottest holiday destination WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY FEE DRUMMOND
M
arbella Club is among the most stylish hotels in the world, where black and white photos of 1954 socialite scenes litter the most sophisticated salons of Europe. Family-run, it is the epitome of poolside, sporting, European chic, and a bastion of old-school glamour. The Club’s story started in 1947, when Finca Santa Margarita farmhouse, in a pine forest with the ocean lapping at its feet, was bought by Prince Alfonso von Hohenloh as a Mediterranean retreat. In 1954, Marbella Club opened with 20 bedrooms, a dining room, and a bar. In the 70 years since, the Club has attracted the world’s most famous and fabulous guests, becoming the must-visit destination for the international jet set. To mark the Club’s 70th birthday, its visionary owner Jennica Arazi is hosting a series of glamorous, wellness and celebratory events across the year to mark the occasion. I joined over the summer for a taste of the celebrations.
WONDERFUL WELLNESS
Marbella Club is known for its forward-thinking, holistic approach to wellness. I visited for the San Juan solstice celebrations, which were marked by the most exceptional meditative dance hike led by Sanctum, plus binaural breathwork sessions at sunset on the Club’s spectacular wilderness deck.
180 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Postcards-from-Marbella-V3-TD.indd 180
30/08/2024 11:42
Wild Travel | HOTELS & TRAVEL
WILD STYLE EDIT
Making the most of late summer sun
A HAVEN FOR KIDS
With my daughter, I head to arguably the nicest kids’ club in the world, housed at the heart of the finca. It offers supervised activities for children aged four to 14, from sports, gardening and wildlife experiences to science experiments and play in the open air.
GRAB A RACQUET
The first padel court in Europe was brought here by Prince Alfonso in 1970. Now, the Club’s offering has been made over with a new collaboration with Spanish fashion brand Loewe, resulting in hands-down the prettiest and chicest court around.
1 Finlay Elgin sunglasses, £150. finlayandco.com 2 Evarae Audrey bikini top in Vista Blue, £180. evarae.com
GREEN FINGERS
The Marbella Club’s lush and expansive sub-tropical gardens are at the heart of its birthday celebrations. It has partnered with French institute for natural sciences Deyrolle to protect and seamlessly extend the farmhouse’s original gardens into Finca Ana María, the newly acquired plot next to Marbella Club. Plus, from the kitchen garden with over 100 heritage tomato varieties, a storytelling tree captivating young minds and a show-and-tell Cabinet of Curiosities, to glamping experiences and a natural maze of acacias, it’s bursting with things to see and do.
3 Abysse Hawkins swimsuit, £188. freepeople.com 4 E. Stott Eden dress, £1,395. harrods.com 5 Alicia Swim Jodie Coco onepiece, £205. aliciaswim.com 6 Christys’ Panama hat, £420. christys-hats.com
BOOK IT: From
€1,000. marbellaclub.com n
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 181
Postcards-from-Marbella-V3-TD.indd 181
30/08/2024 11:42
LOCH DOWN A cabin-to-castle Scottish sojourn makes the perfect nature-culture staycation, says Lucy Cleland
Where there’s a loch, there’s a skinny dip
T
ABOVE & BELOW: Hide away in a Leckie Treehouse near Stirling
PHOTOS: PEXELS
here was really no choice other than to jump in. A quick look left and right through the dense foliage, and a listen for the sounds of human noise confirmed not another soul was near. So we stripped off and picked our way over the root-encrusted bank into the cool loch. There was something so utterly seductive about stumbling upon this watering hole when we were hot and sticky from walking, the delicious shock of the cold on warmed-up skin. This was just one of the delights of staying at the equally seductive new Leckie Treehouses (from £245 a night; leckietreehouses.co.uk) near Stirling in central Scotland, just around an hour’s drive northeast of Edinburgh. A world away from city distractions, the only sounds were the wind, the crickets and the birds (this was great bird-watching terrain). It’s not often that you can say a treehouse out-styles your own home, but this Scandi-style beauty (one of just four), perched on four metre stilts, between huge oak and beech trees, did just that. Its clean lines, floor-to-ceiling windows, exposed wood walls, tree-top terrace, log burner and outdoor copper tub, were truly gorgeous. Everywhere you looked, an unimpeachable vista of woodland, cow-flecked pasture or tree-lined hillside was given to you as a gift. Even the fact that it had no wifi – in their bid for its guests to ‘switch off’ – did not freak my digitally native children out too much, the sweetest words to a mother’s ears being, ‘Let’s go and explore’, instead. And explore we did. There were plenty of walks recommended in the book (skinny-dipping optional), including to the local pub, the Gargunnock Inn, for decent grub if you didn’t fancy cooking at home (although the Smiddy Farm shop just down the road offered excellent home-made curries, pies and more – at ‘farm shop’ prices). It was also just a short drive to Stirling Castle, Scotland’s most strategically important, which dominates 182 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Scotland-V3-PB.indd 182
30/08/2024 11:39
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Scotland | HOTELS & TRAVEL
the town from its hilltop vantage. It was here that Mary, Queen of Scots, was crowned at just six days old when her father, James V, nephew of King Henry VIII, died aged just 30 of cholera or dysentry. The rest, as they say, is history. I put in a bid to visit the William Wallace monument nearby (I’m a descendant, so family folklore goes, of Scotland’s most famous warrior – and Mel Gibson’s most memorable film role). Further north, our next stop was another back-to-nature stay at Glen Glack, a collection of five larch-clad log cabins (from £270 a night; atholl-estates.co.uk), built on raised legs to leave as little impact as possible, on the side of the Cally loch. They are a new accommodation offering from the vast Atholl Estate, which covers some 120,000 acres of Highland Perthshire and stretches from Dunkeld in the south to the wild mountains of the Cairngorms in the north. All are rigged out beautifully and cosily with everything you might need, including an expansive terrace – the perfect place on which to while away time between long walks, via beaver dams, osprey nests and heavenly wild swimming spots, hoping for a red squirrel to show his burnished head. You can happily walk to the buzzy, beautiful town of Dunkeld by the River Tay in under half an hour. Voted one of The Sunday Times best places to live in Scotland in March this year, it’s the kind of place that has more organic coffee shops than you can shake a stick at (in a good way). Best of of all was a cake-stop at Aran Bakery on Atholl Street, owned and run by Flora Shedden, Great British Bake Off ’s youngest semi-finalist, followed by a riverside walk past Dunkeld House Hotel to a ‘beach’ where you could skim stones and muck about in the water. Dunkeld Cathedral – where we found evidence of more family history, a memorial for Lieutenant Colonel William Cleland who, it is said, ‘died heroically in the first hour of battle [of Dunkeld in 1689] by taking one bullet in the liver and another in the head, before dragging himself out of sight so that his men would not see him so wounded’ (sounds like a decent chap) – is gloriously romantic, though loose masonry has rendered half of it to be under repair. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, head to the Taybank hotel, for home-made pizza, truffle chips and live music. Whatever you do, drive north for half an hour or so not only to stock up on country clobber, smoked salmon and fine malt whisky at the magnificent House of Bruar, dubbed the ‘Harrods of the North’, but also to visit splendid, cream-coloured Blair Castle, seat of the Atholl family for over seven centuries. A farm tour with manager Hugh Chamberlain had us feeding the red deer and fluffy Highland cattle, while learning about how, under the auspices of one of the trustees, Bertie Troughton, the whole estate is converting to regenerative – and organic – farming. We thrilled to the intense honeysmelling heather on the glen, the loud buzz of bees in our ears and carpets of wild flowers, which hitherto would have been grazed by sheep in a mono-culture system that does little for soil health and biodiversity. We spent our final two days rather more aristocratically in the East Wing of Drumlanrig Castle in Dumfriesshire, excellent value at £200 a night (drumlanrigcastle.co.uk). Known as the ‘pink palace’ for its construction in 1679 from pinkish sandstone, quarried just four miles away, it is the seat of the Buccleuch (pronounced ‘baklou’) family who were once the biggest private landowners in the UK (and, indeed, Europe), with around 217,000 acres to their name.
ABOVE & BELOW: Glen Glack cabins are built on the idea of the traditional bothy, though rather more comfortable
Hunting down the ancestors at Dunkeld Cathedral
Blair Castle, home to the Atholl family for seven generations
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 183
Scotland-V3-PB.indd 183
30/08/2024 11:39
HOTELS & TRAVEL | Scotland Drumlanrig Castle, seat of the Dukes of Buccleuch and home to an extraordinary private art collection
You could lose yourself for days just walking (or cycling) around the glorious and vast estate of Drumlanrig which is overlooked by both the Queensberry and Lowther hills, offering excellent fishing and shooting. Its beautiful and bountiful woodland trails take you past the Drumlanrig Sycamore (one of the oldest in the country) and the very first Douglas Fir to be planted in the UK, plus secluded lochs, bubbling burns and even an Andy Goldsworthy sculpture, Leaping Arch, made of sandstone and commissioned in 2009. This time, though, we resisted skinny-dipping lest the Duke – or his kin – should disapprove, but with over 40,000 acres at our disposal, I suspect we could have got away with it. n
ABOVE & BELOW: Dabton House, former home of the tenth Duke and Duchess, is now available for private hire
PHOTOS: WALTER DALKEITH
Drumlanrig has one of the most important private art collections outside that of the royal family – and on display are works by El Greco, Van Dyck, Holbein and Gainsborough, among others. The jewel in the crown, though, is Rembrandt’s An Old Woman Reading, which we were lucky to see at all; in 2003, Leonardo da Vinci’s The Madonna of the Yarnwinder (valued then at around £25m) was snatched by two paying visitors to the castle, and was only retrieved four years later (the incredible heist is the subject of a BBC podcast series The Missing Madonna). It is now back on view at the National Gallery in Edinburgh heavily guarded. The theft, though, shook up the then Duke – who sadly died a month or so before it was returned – so badly that he removed the Rembrandt from view lest the same fate befall it. A new place was later found to hang it when the family remodelled the old duchess’s quarters to look more like a rich 17th-century Dutch merchant’s house – which would show off the exquisite masterpiece in more apposite surrounds than the previous feminine Victorian design. They have since, of course, tightened security and always have guided tours, which must be pre-booked. They are also developing more accommodation across the estate to diversify revenue streams. Dabton House, for example, just ten minutes’ down the road, is where the current Duke and Duchess decided to move to from the castle in the 1980s when creating their own family home. After their children had grown up, it fell out of full-time use, so the lovely Georgian property, with stunning gardens, was renovated and converted last year to offer 12 spacious ensuite bedrooms and is now available for private hire, although the family still come and stay from time to time. Complete with sauna, treatment room, grass tennis court and 27 acres of woodland, it’s popular for shooting parties in autumn (there are even heated kennels for dogs), and is perfect for weddings, parties and multi-gen get-togethers throughout the year (from £3,000 per night, self-catered; dabtonhouse.co.uk).
184 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Scotland-V3-PB.indd 184
30/08/2024 11:39
PA R T N E R S H I P Twilight Trees bringing the drama to the Royal Albert Hall
CREATE THE SPECTACULAR Make your event unforgettable with Twilight Trees
I
f you’ve partied at one of London’s epic event spaces recently it’s likely you have danced or dined under the canopy of a spectacular Twilight Tree. Planning an event this season? Add a twist of the extraordinary with Twilight Trees; be it an intimate dinner, an elegant wedding or a lavish seasonal party, its stunning installations create a showIN FULL stopping impact. BLOOM Twilight Trees offers Twilight Trees offers a range of artificial trees and a diverse range of foliage that can instantly transform any venue, from collections to suit any event theme: historic houses to modern urban spaces ensuring your event is the talk of the town (or country)! 1 Blossom Trees: These realistic With over a decade of experience, Twilight artificial blossom Trees is renowned for its exceptional quality and trees with silk blooms add vibrant craftsmanship. Its trees are constructed from colour to events both reclaimed and fabricated wood trunks, and year-round. come adorned with the highest quality florals. This 2 Gold Trees: For a touch of opulence, the gold collection brings instant glamour and magic.
3 Green Trees: Perfect for a natural look, featuring beautifully crafted green and olive trees. 4 LED Trees: For those seeking sparkle and glamour, illuminated trees provide a sensational backdrop. 5 Christmas Trees: For the ultimate immersive festive experience.
attention to detail creates a realistic appearance that often leaves guests in awe, as one testimonial highlights: ‘We were beyond happy and everyone was so impressed with the trees. One of the guests even asked, “how did they manage to get all the trees so perfectly in bloom?!”’ Beyond trees, Twilight Trees also provides stunning bars and bench seats to complement its installations. Its commitment to sustainability is evident as it offers virtually waste-free event decor, making Twilight Trees an environmentally friendly choice. For b e sp oke proje c t s or long -term rentals, Twilight Trees can create and install custom trees and foliage, ensuring a unique and personalised touch. To make your event spectacular, contact Twilight Trees at info@twilight-trees.com or call +44 (0)1962 877644. Explore more at twilighttrees.com or Instagram @twilighttrees
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 185
ADV-Twilight-Trees-V2-TD.indd 185
30/08/2024 12:43
Share your life story and create a priceless family legacy. Let our expert team of interviewers and skilled writers artfully preserve your cherished stories and photographs in an exquisitely handcrafted book. We will make telling your life story easy, enjoyable and rewarding and help create a unique gift that will be treasured by you, your family and generations to come.
Start your private autobiography journey today.
Call 0845 528 0698 www.lifebookmemoirs.com
LB Country Townhouse Full Page moped Jan24.indd 1 FILLER Life Book .indd 1
18/01/2024 10:14 27/08/2024 16:26
FOOD&DRINK
Liquid Sunshine
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Raise a glass to London Cocktail Week’s 14th year (p188). Soak that up with a whopper pork pie from the River Cottage (p190)
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 187
Food-News-V4-TD.indd 187
30/08/2024 13:46
FOOD & DRINK | Food News
PLATE UP
Restaurants on our radar
JUNK, Soho Francophiles are having their fill this year – but the international expansion of French smash burger brand Junk to Soho in September is less petit bistrot so much as double patty indulgence. Think truffle double cheeseburger and crispy veggie burgers coated in panko breadcrumbs. junkburgers.com
T
How the cocktail came to be. By Tessa Dunthorne
he very first cocktail in the world was dreamed up in New Orleans. In a dinky bar in the mid-1800s, some thirsty person decided to mix up cognac, bitters, syrups, absinthe and a touch of lemon – and made the original Sazerac. The rest is history; this became the drink of Louisiana, and cocktails spread like wildfire across the US – making spirits more palatable during the Prohibition – and thus was the US the king of the cocktail. That’s one story, anyway. It’s very possible that the cocktail came far, far before then. In The Iliad, a suspect drink called Kykeon is mixed up and consumed; this was a concoction of wine, barley and grated goat’s cheese (yum). In India, drinks based on arrack spirit have histories spanning thousands of years. And rum punches then came to Europe through the spice trade. In Britain, we’ve had port-based tipples since the 18th
century – a negus, a mix of claret and sugar, takes its name from Colonel Negus, an army officer and politician. Today, arguably, London is the bar capital of the world (though this would be wildly contested by Hong Kong, Singapore or New York). We have historic venues galore – the Savoy’s American Bar, Dukes in Mayfair, the Connaught Bar, to name just a few – and London has always ranked with at least one entry in the top five of the World’s 50 Best Bars list. And the capital can also lay claim to the world’s first dedicated cocktail celebration. This year, London Cocktail Week turns 14, and is a city-wide event with hundreds of bars taking part. A £20 wristband grants you access to £8 signature cocktails (a bargain in the capital), as well as underground parties, masterclasses and karaoke sessions. I defy you to not stumble home smiling after one of the unmissable tasting tours. So while New Orleans may have created the world’s first official cocktail, London’s bar scene gets top billing. At the very least, we’re in the mix. London Cocktail Week, 3-13 Oct. londoncocktailweek.com
PANTRY STAPLES What’s in season
SESTA, Hackney Sesta by Drew Snaith and Hannah Kowalski – who worked together at Brunswick House – will open at the old Pidgin spot in Hackney in September. This new spot will serve up local, seasonal fare with a nod to Southeast Asia’s cuisine, plus some spectacular fire cooking. @sesta.dining
SAEL, St James’s Market Jason and Irtha Atherton will open Sael in St James’s Market in September, celebrating the heritage of the British Isles and its produce. Think the ‘energy and swagger of the cool Britannia era’, and a menu that includes Highland wagyu followed by jam roly poly. saellondon.com
1 QUINCE Fortnum & Mason quince cheese, £4.95. fortnumandmason.com 2 BLACKBERRIES British fruit punnet, £3. berrymakers.co.uk 3 APPLES Château du Breuil 15-year-old calavados, from €39.70. spiriterie.com 4 FIGS Tracklements sticky fig relish, £4.35. tracklements.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW LIVINGSTONE
GASTRO GOSSIP
188 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Food-News-V4-TD.indd 188
30/08/2024 13:46
Telmont.indd 1
22/06/2023 18:34
FOOD & DRINK | Recipe
SUPPER CLUB Exec chef at the River Cottage, Gelf Alderson’s pork pie is a hearty salve to those autumnal hunger pangs
FOODIE TALES
RIVER COTTAGE PORK PIE Gelf says: I always make one big pie and serve it sliced, but you can make smaller pies, which are easier to transport for picnics or packed lunches, if you like.
METHOD
1
Preheat oven to 200°C (fan 180°C). Prepare the filling by putting all meat into a large bowl with herbs, salt and other seasoning. Combine.
2
To assemble the pie, cut off a quarter of the pastry and set aside for your lid. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the bigger piece of pastry to a large round, (1cm thick, 35cm diameter).
3
Drape pastry over a 20cm springform cake tin and use to line the tin, pressing pastry into the sides and flattening any overlap with your fingers. It should come 6-8cm up the sides of the tin.
4
Fill the pastry case with seasoned pork mix. Trim the pastry roughly, leaving some overhang. Roll the lid pastry out to the diameter of the tin and about 1cm thick.
INGREDIENTS Serves 8 – 1kg hot water crust pastry – Flour, to dust – Egg wash (beaten egg) – 1kg minced pork shoulder – 250g minced pork belly (or fatty sausage meat) – 250g finely chopped pancetta or streaky bacon – 12 finely chopped sage leaves – 2 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked and chopped – 20g salt – 2 tsp ground black pepper – 2 tsp ground white pepper – 1/2 tsp ground mace – Pinch of cayenne pepper – 400ml pork stock – 8 sheets bronze leaf gelatine
5 6 7
Brush the edges of the lining pastry with egg wash and lay the pastry lid on top of the pie. Press the edges to seal and trim away excess pastry. Crimp the edges. Brush pie lid with egg wash and cut a 1cm hole in the centre.
Bake in the oven for 30 mins then lower the setting to 190°C (fan 170°C) and bake for one hour. Remove from the oven and lift from the tin. Brush the sides and top with egg wash; return to the oven for 15 mins (or golder brown all over). Leave to cool for an hour. For the jelly, heat stock in a saucepan until it starts to steam, then add gelatine leaves one by one, stirring until melted. Remove from heat, pour into a jug, and then with a funnel pour the stock slowly into the pie hole. Once full, allow liquid to settle and repeat. Refrigerate for 5-6 hours to chill thoroughly. Cut to slices to serve.
GELF ALDERSON, EXEC CHEF AT THE RIVER COTTAGE
This recipe is pretty old... It’s from The River Cottage Meat Book [from 2004]. We’ve never had to alter it. My food philosophy is simple... I try to cook and eat quality ingredients that are grown or reared with conscience. One of my first memories is making bread with my mum... I was three or four; I’m not sure how much I helped. My favourite ingredient at this time of year is squash... But not the butternuts! There are so many varieties, like the Crown Prince with its lovely grey-green skin and bright orange flesh. Try squash roasted with a squeeze of orange... And some olives chopped through it, plus chilli and thyme. I love using fruit where you shouldn’t. The restaurant you’ve got to try before you die... Is in Nottingham: Restaurant Sat Bains. It’s got two Michelin stars and a green [Michelin] star, too. I go back to Larousse Gastronomique again and again... I’ve had a copy since I was a kid. The cover is falling off, it’s covered in dirty fingerprints and stains... But it’s the mustread for any serious chef. I use up leftovers by making my own pot noodles... Pop leftover veg, chicken and a stock cube into a kilner jar, and then you only need to add water. River Cottage Great Pies is out 26 September (Bloomsbury, £22). n
190 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Recipe-V4-TD.indd 190
30/08/2024 11:43
PR O M OT I O N
THE PERFECT NIGHT OUT Hit the town in style with dinner at Sette, before heading to Nolita Social for cocktails, music and dancing
G
rab your Manolos and your Fendi Baguette: we’re going out-out. If you’re tempted by a night of dinner and dancing (and who isn’t?) we’ve got just the spot for you. Sette is the stylish dining destination to know in London right now. Bringing the flair and sophistication of Manhattan to Knightsbridge, plus a taste of La Dolce Vita, Sette is the seventh global outpost of New York City’s famous Scarpetta restaurant. Its delicious menu features a delicious mix of the brand’s signature Italian dishes and homemade pastas, combined with Big Apple favourites such as rib-eye steak and NYC cheesecake. These are all executed with bold flavours and the freshest seasonal ingredients, for a meal you’ll savour down to the last morsel of pasta and drizzle of olive oil.
Nolita Social is a stylish, intimate space for cocktails and dancing
However, once you’ve dined the night is only just beginning. Just downstairs from Sette is Nolita Social. Named after New York’s most vibrant neighbourhood, ‘North of Little Italy’, the stylish basement bar brings the energy of the New York night to London, with a heady mix of elevated cocktails, live music and DJs playing 60s rock, 70s soul, and 90s hiphop for a stylish crowd, until 1am. It’s the perfect place to relax and unwind with friends or a date – with a Manhattan or Cosmopolitan in hand, of course. So message your social crowd, or send a hint to your partner – the perfect night out starts at Sette, and finishes at Nolita Social. See you on the dance floor. To find out more and reserve your tables, head to settelondon.co.uk and nolitasocial.co.uk
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 191
ADV-Sette-V4-TD.indd 191
30/08/2024 12:42
FOOD & DRINK | Interview Helen Goh and Yotam Ottolenghi try dishes from their new cookbook, Comfort
This new cookbook is giving comfort food an Ottolenghi spin, says Ellie Smith
A
re you partial to a dollop of rose harissa on your pasta? Always keep a jar of sumac in the cupboard? And do your dinner parties tend to consist of a spread of colourful family-style plates? Looks like you’ve been hit by the Ottolenghi effect, which has swept the nation over the past two decades. It all began in 2002 when Israel-born chef Yotam Ottolenghi opened a tiny deli in Notting Hill, along with co-founders Noam Bar and Sami Tamimi. The locals were quickly sold on the vibrant, vegetable-centric dishes, with queues regularly forming around the corner. A string of further cafés and restaurants followed, but it was the release of cookbook Simple in 2018 that really brought Ottolenghi to the masses. Before long, tahini, pomegranate molasses and preserved lemon were staples in households across the UK. Now Yotam is back with another, Comfort, created alongside co-authors Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley. Collaboration has always been pivotal to the Ottolenghi brand, and many of the team have been involved since the early days, including Helen, who met Yotam in 2006 after discovering his Notting Hill café. They have worked together ever since and have become close friends, often meeting up for meals with their families (both have two boys). The book has been in the works for a few years, the pair tell me. ‘We realised that the idea of comfort is a very powerful one,’ says a cheery Yotam. ‘It’s about things that you relate to emotionally, that spark joy and ease. That’s why it’s quite a diverse set of comfort recipes – they really reflect our own personal histories.’ Both Yotam and Helen’s recipes draw on their childhoods and heritages. Yotam was born in Jerusalem to a German-Jewish mother and an Italian-Jewish father, and spent summers in Italy, so was exposed to a wealth of cuisine from a young age.
the one-pot chicken with orzo). Recipe ideas are conjured up in the brand’s test kitchen in north London, a hub of culinary wizardry and creativity. The chefs try not to be too diplomatic or precious about their ideas – but, of course, it’s not always smooth sailing. ‘I don’t want to portray an idolised image,’ admits Yotam. ‘It’s quite painful sometimes when you work on something and then people say, well actually, it doesn’t do it for me. But over time there is a deeper understanding that it’s really not about that. Everybody is extremely capable. There is a dish that they develop, but there’s going to be another one tomorrow. So it doesn’t matter that much. And how can we make the best version of roasted cauliflower or the best version of beetroot salad? That’s all it is.’ There’s no doubt the book will be another bestseller – so what’s the secret? Of course there’s the food itself. Comfort is filled with over 100 exciting, elevated twists on familiar classics: a jacket potato is jazzed up with aubergine and green tahini, pancakes are made with semolina and fish pie is given a ‘bohemian’ spin. But there’s also that signature Ottolenghi look, which people have come to know and love. ‘I remember I was having trouble plating up the silken tofu,’ recalls Helen. ‘My sense was to just lay it down very symmetrically, and Yotam came and pushed it a bit, and it suddenly felt very modern. It took it from something you might find in a little Chinese restaurant to something you find in Ottolenghi. Sometimes it could just be a slight tweak.’ And while Ottolenghi recipes aren’t renowned for being easy, the team is set on making them approachable – and it’s certainly working, with over five million copies of his books sold worldwide, translated into 23 languages. ‘When you say, how big is Ottolenghi? I say, well, it’s as big as the people that are cooking from it,’ says Yotam of his global popularity. ‘And this is what we’re constantly working on. One of the questions I constantly ask myself is: will someone cook this?’ Ultimately, Comfort is a book about sharing: mealtimes and memories, and the recipes that we pass on through generations. As Helen puts it, ‘something which may be nostalgic for me, how do I bring it forward so that it connects with other people?’ In a world that can feel so divided, food is one of the things that can unite us – and there’s nothing like an Ottolenghi feast to bring people together. n
PHOTOS: © JONATHAN LOVEKIN
Culinary COMFORT
‘I grew up in between European culture and Middle Eastern culture, so obviously pasta resonates with me because my dad made pasta almost every single day. And also things that are quite traditional Jewish in their heritage: meatballs, schnitzel, matzo ball soup.’ Helen, meanwhile, was born in Malaysia but moved to Melbourne aged ten. For her, comfort food is ‘inextricably tied to rituals and traditions’, and being ‘associated with certainty and predictability in an uncertain world’. In Comfort, for instance, she presents her take on cucur udang: prawn fritters that are sold streetside in Malaysia, which Helen loved as a child. The book also spotlights dishes learnt from friends and travels. ‘Over the years, my notion of comfort really expanded,’ notes Yotam. ‘You’ve lived in different places, you’ve absorbed different things.’ They include, too, dishes they cook for their children (Helen’s love the gingery fish and rice, Yotam’s
192 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Ottolenghi-V3-KB.indd 192
30/08/2024 11:40
C&TH Members’ Club JOIN THE NEW
TODAY AND RECEIVE...
— Digital editions of all our publications — Members-only benefits and exclusive offers — Automatic entry into all competitions
Discover more at countryandtownhouse.com/membership
Membership AD.indd 1
27/08/2024 16:34
charity
Founded by Arizona Muse
@dirt.charity
Dirt.indd 1
29/06/2023 10:11
PROPERTY Edited by Anna Tyzack
HOUSE OF THE MONTH
Bayham Hall, Bayham Abbey, Lamberhurst, Kent 8 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 8,069 sq/ft, £3.65m
Sell it to us in a sentence... Bayham Hall is a one-of-a-kind, Grade II-listed, Jacobean-style house that combines historic charm with modern luxury – perfect for stylish family living and hosting parties. Think Downton Abbey meets Soho House. How would you describe its design? A striking mix of classic elegance and contemporary flair. Standout features include glass Murano chandeliers by Venetian firm Sogni Di Cristallo and art from both contemporary artists and Parisian antique markets. What’s unique about it? It forms the lion’s share of a stunning period mansion, adjacent to the historic ruins of Bayham Abbey. A huge carved oak staircase and a cathedral-like stained glass window add a regal air, but the artwork and furniture feels fun and eclectic. It’s not your average stately home. What is its history? Designed by Humphry Repton – often regarded as Capability Brown’s successor – Bayham Hall was built in 1870 as a weekend retreat for the Marquess Camden. The property itself spans the West Wing of the great house, which was sectioned off when the Camden line sold the estate in the late 1970s. Queen Victoria attended a cricket match in the grounds, and her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II visited twice. Best room in the house? Undoubtedly the kitchen, which has been beautifully crafted within the former library. With cabinets by The Dovetail Joint, the kitchen showcases a huge antler chandelier, an ornate plaster ceiling, huge windows with original shutters and a marble fireplace. Perks of the location? Bayham Hall is just a short drive away from Tunbridge Wells, which boasts an acclaimed dining scene, a popular Gin & Jazz Festival and a vibrant farmer’s market on Saturday mornings. With its picturesque appeal (Victorian villas in some streets can be fought over!) Tunbridge Wells is on a trajectory towards London-level property prices. +44 (0)20 8819 3604; johndwood.co.uk September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 195
POTM-V3-TD.indd 195
30/08/2024 11:45
Would You Buy a House on Instagram? Anna Tyzack investigates the rise of property influencers
I
t was on a road trip in France that estate agent Tim Phillips decided to reinvent the way he sold houses. On his Instagram he’d posted a couple of reels of châteaux that were up for sale and found himself bombarded with interest from buyers in Britain, France and the States. ‘I thought: “there’s something in this”,’ he says. Over the coming months he continued to grow his social media following before quitting his job at Savills to become an Instagram estate agent (@tim_prime_property). ‘The world of estate agency is changing and I wanted to be ahead of the game,’ he says. ‘People are buying £10 million houses after watching a five second reel on Instagram.’ Anyone searching for a new home these days will find potential properties magically appearing on their social media feeds. The biggest estate agents are now investing marketing budgets once reserved for print advertising on social media campaigns: Savills has nearly 240,000 followers on Instagram, while Knight Frank has 198,000. But individuals and smaller companies are also racing to cultivate online followings: global estate agent Edward de Mallet Morgan Frank regularly posts enviable houses on the French Riviera and in Tuscany to his 6,000 followers (@edemalletmorgan), while Henry Adams of Henry Adam Estate Agents in East Wittering (@thewitteringagent_ henryadams), has been amazed by the influence of Facebook and Instagram on buyers since getting on social media last year. ‘One sale came via a local Facebook group – we responded to a woman’s request for help with her property search and sold her a home within 48 hours,’ he says. ‘Another resulted from an Instagram “sneak peek” reel featuring a development opportunity, which attracted a developer and sparked a conversation.’ The rise of social media has opened up a new market and allowed us to reach a wider audience, including those who might not be actively searching for a new home, Adams explains. Sellers are engaged, too, adds Megan Wright of Michael Graham, an estate agency with nearly 17,000 Instagram followers (@michaelgraham_living). ‘We consistently receive comments from vendors telling us we caught their eye on social media due to our brand presentation,’ she says. No wonder, then, that the new generation of estate agencies is shunning the high street entirely and using Instagram as their shop window. The Modern House, which has an impressive 775,000 followers (@themodernhouse), prides itself on its photography, posting atmospheric lifestyle shoots of properties for sale which receive thousands of likes and comments; the newer Inigo (@inigo.house) is a similar platform for historic houses with 225,000 followers. Social media has also given rise to the ‘property influencer’: Ari Reid, a glamorous actress-turned-buying agent, who speaks fluent Mandarin and Spanish, takes her 427,000 followers on tours of £10.5 million doer-uppers in Mayfair and teaches them how to draw a bath the British way (@arireidproperty). Yet do reels really lead to deals? One might suspect that the majority of Reid’s followers are there for her Princess Diana-style outfits and cut-glass English accent rather than to buy a house in Mayfair. ‘Their endorsement is likely to have little effect on the actual decision making process of a purchaser committing to buy,’ says Marc Schneiderman of estate agency Arlington Residential. ‘Buying an expensive home cannot be likened to buying luxury.
Property influencer Ari Reid, who also works with Oliver Bernard Private
196 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Property-Feature-V4-TD.indd 196
30/08/2024 11:46
PROPERTY
New Place Manor, Pulborough, West Sussex, for sale with inigo.com
Edith Road, Ramsgate, for sale with inigo.com
retail items, such as a handbag or shoes where an endorsement will certainly have an impact on sales figures.’ Reid insists, though, that buyers and sellers from across the world reach out to her all the time. She sold a flat on Eaton Square in Belgravia for £6.5 million after her Insta tour received 332,000 views; a seller offered to fly her over to the house they wanted to sell in Barbados. Her talent agent maintains she is London’s ‘key property communicator, thanks to her innovative social media strategy and passion for her subject.’ At the top end of the market property influencers such as Reid have their place, according to Grahame Salt of Frank Salt Real Estate in Malta, alerting wealthy buyers to new developments and locations. ‘They can promote a destination or project to the right audience but they have to produce something punchy enough for people to watch and share,” he says. It tends to be a younger demographic of rich buyers – those in their 30s and 40s – who use social media to find properties; they’re used to being guided by influencers and in many cases believe their recommendations have more cachet. ‘It’s often the son or daughter of the property’s owner who contacts me via Instagram,’ says Phillips. ‘If an owner is older, they don’t necessarily understand the pull of social media.’ None of this is a substitute for experience and depth of market knowledge, though, says Christian Warman of estate agency Tedworth Property. ‘Very few, if any “influencers” have this,’ he says.
Which is why Phillips, who now has 136,000 followers, does not want to be labelled a property influencer. While he thoroughly enjoys making reels and other social media content about his job and was one of the first estate agents to buy his own drone, it’s his experience and network that get him his deals, he says. ‘I’m not an influencer; I’m a bloody good estate agent with an Instagram following not the other way round,’ he says. ‘I’ve probably sold more super prime houses in Essex than any other agent; I’ve worked for the top name companies. When I post a house in Instagram I also call everyone I know in my network. Instagram is a powerful tool but it can’t be the only thing.’ This is why individual sellers will struggle to sell their house by using social media alone, he says. Alice Merritt, who has 23,000 followers on her Instagram home décor account (@strikeme_pink), maintains that Instagram didn’t help ‘a lick’ when it came to selling her house. ‘It was a slog. I think Zoopla and Rightmove are still king,’ she says. In the end it was Stanfords, a local estate agent, who sold the property. ‘They worked really hard to sell our house in a difficult market – I would say agents are still so important and getting the right one is even more important,’ she says. Tom Parsons of buying agents Middleton Advisors cannot envisage any of his ultra wealthy clients turning to Instagram to find their next house. ‘Typically such buyers will have looked on Rightmove and instructed a buying agent,’ he says. ‘While social media can increase exposure to a wider audience, this is not necessarily a good thing. Privacy and discretion are paramount to us and our clients and publicising properties can pose a security risk.’ Ari Reid said in an interview in The Times: ‘Not everyone wants their fabulous, pristine home in the public domain. Some feel it’s a security issue.’ As well as being a property influencer, Reid works with Oliver Bernard Private, a traditional buying agent in Mayfair – one can assume that the homes she is acquiring for her clients don’t get anywhere near her Instagram grid. As a lead generator, there’s no doubt that social media has its place, but Reid is the first to admit that she still works very hard. Phillips, does too: once he’s found a buyer via Instagram, he has to deploy all his skills as an estate agent to get the deal across the line, he says. While he often receives more leads through his social media than via Rightmove, he isn’t giving up on the property search portals just yet and also has his own website. ‘If you’re specifically searching for a property in Hampshire, the search portals are still your first port of call,’ he says. ‘I see Instagram as a digital magazine: you can reach the people who aren’t actively looking – until they see what you are selling.’ n LEFT: Tim Phillips is a social-first estate agent BELOW: Lake View, Epping, for sale with timprimeproperty.com
September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 197
Property-Feature-V4-TD.indd 197
30/08/2024 11:46
SE
C OU N
OU
T OWN & Y H R T
GOOD BRANDS DIRECTORY
We’ve done the work so you don’t have to... Welcome to the C&TH Good Brands Directory, allowing you to shop in the knowledge that the brands you’re investing in have the highest ethical standards, plus, crucially, are beautiful and really work too. Each featured brand has accreditations or has been assessed by B Corp, Positive Luxury or Green Salon – and sometimes all three – meaning that they have been through rigorous and comprehensive assessments around their social and environmental impact. Featured Brands Include...
886 BY THE ROYAL MINT • ANNOUSHKA • BAV TAILOR • BIO D • BLACKACRE • BOWER COLLECTIVE • BRUICHLADDICH • CRANBOURN® • ELVIS & KRESSE • ETHICA DIAMONDS • EQUINOX KOMBUCHA • FORM NUTRITION • GIBSONS GAMES • GOLDEN HOOVES • GOOD ENERGY • INLIGHT BEAUTY • JOURNEYS WITH PURPOSE • KRĪ SKINCARE • L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE • L.A BREWERY • LA MAISON COUTURE • LUXURY COTTAGES • MADE FOR LIFE ORGANICS • MATILDE • MITCHELL & DICKINSON • NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES • ODDBOX • S’ABLE LABS • SAPLING SPIRITS • SARAFUMI • SKYDIAMOND • SMOL • STEPPES TRAVEL • ST. EVAL • STAR SEED • THE BOTANIST • THE REAL FLOWER COMPANY • THE WHITE COMPANY • WILD
Discover more at countryandtownhouse.com/good-brands
Good-Brands-AD.indd 2
29/08/2024 15:51
Five of the Best | PROPERTY
Country ESTATES
Martha Davies rounds up some quintessentially British properties Chyknell Hall, Bridgnorth, Shropshire, £10.5m
This 201-acre estate features an 11-bedroom house, a tennis court and a swimming pool. With 57 acres of woodland and adjoining shooting rights, it’s perfect for country sports. knightfrank.co.uk
Barlaston Hall, Stoke-On-Trent, £3.5m
Perched on the edge of the Wedgwood Estate in Staffordshire is this handsome country pile, which encompasses a Grade I-listed home and a 12th-century church. jackson-stops.co.uk
Hindley Hall, Stocksfield, Northumberland, £2.5m
Within this 19-acre estate you’ll find ancient woodland, a walled Italian garden and a tennis court, not to mention a five-bedroom home containing a games room, library and gym. finestproperties.co.uk
The Corby Castle Estate, Cumbria, £15m
Looking for a particularly historic home? At the heart of this 700-acre estate, with 17 more houses and cottages, is a Grade I-listed castle, which commands glorious views across the River Eden. savills.com
Tilford, Farnham, Surrey, £10m
This ravishing residence is complete with a threebedroom lodge, a tennis court and a 20-metre pool, all tucked away within 17 acres of manicured grounds. knightfrank.co.uk September /October 2024 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 199
5OTB-Property-V3-TD.indd 199
30/08/2024 12:36
LAST WORD Winkworth Arboretum National Trust in Godalming, Surrey. A quarter of Surrey’s trees are ancient woodland, which have existed since at least 1600 and are rich in wildlife
Tales of our Time
Michael Hayman on the need to create a ‘circular harmony’ between people and nature
‘F
ind tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, sermons in stones, and good in every thing,’ wrote William Shakespeare.
He was right. Every glorious blade of grass in the British countryside helps to tell the narrative of our nation and the natural living stories that have helped make us who we are today. It is a legacy that must live on because nature needs us. In his 2010 book Harmony: A New Way of Looking at Our World (Harper Collins, £30), His Majesty the King (as the then Prince of Wales) called for an ‘active state of balance’ that is ‘as vital to the health of the natural world as it is for human society’. Yet, for understandable reasons, our urban
world is seen as the most important, and development is our national imperative. Witness the arrival of the ‘grey belt’, the first major chip into the green belt since the 1940s and with it a potentially seductive logic of just a little give from our natural world. When government says that it will be a good steward of our green spaces it needs to be as good as its word. I live in Surrey and it is the most forested county in the country. Dwell on that for a moment: the most trees anywhere in the UK. An achievement all the more remarkable for a land mass just moments away from one of the major cities on the planet, London. I have heard it described as akin to a natural lung, one that brings with it an incredible biodiversity of nature and environment. From ramblers to cyclists, from farmers to commuters, you will find no shortage of people whose lives
are imaginably enriched as a result. But the countryside is no natural museum either. If it has shown one thing in the past it is that a circular harmony between people and nature can be achieved and with it communities that can be sustained. But it takes work, sensitivity, and leadership to achieve. Take Poundbury in Dorset. Built as an urban extension to the county town of Dorchester it has been built on the principles of planning advocated by the then Prince of Wales in his 1989 book A Vision of Britain, to provide beautiful architecture of place, integrated affordable housing, mixed use of buildings and a walkable community. We need to love nature, respect its vulnerability, and make sure that the dream of the countryside idyll lives on and thrives alongside our quest for quality homes for all. n
WATCH Harmony: A New Way of Looking at Our World. Inspired by the book, this film provides a call to action globally, locally, and personally. READ Coming Up for Air – written in 1938 by George Orwell it summons up the nostalgia for the countryside and makes the early case for the Green Belt. VISIT The Newt – an estate reimagined on ecological principles by the visionary Karen Roos and Koos Bekker.
The Newt in Somerset
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
N AT U R E & N U R T U R E
200 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2024
Last-Word-V3-TD.indd 200
30/08/2024 12:20
Rathbones.indd 1
21/06/2024 09:58
Rolex.indd 1
20/08/2024 10:01