GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 200
2021/22
PERFECT PLACES TO STAY
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
Contents 77 FEATURES 12
AIN’T NO STOPPING US NOW Let’s clap and cheer for our hotel heroes, says Fiona Duncan
16
I WOULD WALK 500 MILES Holly Rubenstein goes over the hills and far away in Scotland
21
GREEN LIGHTS Emma Love orders from the sustainable menu
24
AS SEEN ON SCREEN Where to stay if you want to feel part of the period drama action. By Amy Wakeham
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Mitre at Hampton Court; Beachy Head in Sussex; Carbis Bay Hotel; The Ritz
DIRECTORY 32
DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY
44
THE WEST COUNTRY
36
66
Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire
56
HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT
66
THE HOME COUNTIES Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Hertfordshire / Kent / Sussex / Surrey
80
LONDON
94
THE COTSWOLDS Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire
104 MID COUNTRY Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands
112
EAST ANGLIA
122
THE NORTH
ON THE COVER Hambleton Hall (p109). hambletonhall.com
County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire
136
WALES & THE MARCHES
144
SCOTLAND
152
IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND
160
PRIVATE HOUSES
168
INDEX
91
LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in Great British & Irish Hotels is taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26). The annual competition showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. For more details visit lpoty.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS FROM TOP: Nigel Morton, Window of Opportunity, Norfolk – taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26); The Rookery; tuck in at The Cat Inn; Cary Arms & Spa
Editor’s LETTER In last year’s editor’s letter I said how proud I felt of the 2020 edition of the Great British and Irish Hotels Guide, packed as it was with gorgeous places to stay and absorbing travel stories, as well as being visually stunning, as ever. There could hardly have been a more challenging year in which to produce a compendium of hot-and-happening hotels; indeed there had been moments when we feared that the privations and long closures wrought by the pandemic would mean that our eighth edition would not, could not, happen. Little did we expect that 2021 would be just as fraught with difficulty for hotels and the hospitality industry. Although – we pray – the virus finally seems to be retreating in the face of mass vaccinations, hotels were only able to reopen with restrictions on 17 May. And as I write hoteliers are facing a new and wholly unexpected challenge, as if they haven’t been through enough: staff shortages, in some cases severe, caused by a combination of Covid and Brexit, just at a time when their properties are full to bursting with staycationers. But hoteliers are a remarkably resilient lot, and so are we. Though the British hotel scene is still in a state of flux, with some favourites closing and new openings delayed, we are proud to bring you this compendium of delightful places to stay. Once again, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to writers Emma Love and Holly Rubenstein and to the entire talented team at Country & Town House. But let’s forget the past awful couple of years and celebrate what we have! In my essay for this year’s edition I do just that, describing why hotels are important ingredients in our lives and why they mean so much to me (p12). If you feel that much of the country is too crowded right now, with everyone holidaying at home, then read Holly Rubenstein’s brilliant account of her 500-mile loop encompassing the east and west coasts of Scotland (p16). Emma Love also celebrates the strides that restaurants are making towards sustainability, recognised for the first time by the Michelin Guide’s new Green Stars (p21) and Amy Wakeham takes us behind the scenes to uncover the locations that brought our favourite period dramas to life during lockdown (p24). Once again, the evocative images that represent each region in our guide are the work of the impressive winners of the Landscape Photography of the Year awards. We also include, as ever, our useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or family (p160).
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
CON T R I BU TOR S
Discover a new Scottish adventure, p16
The restaurants putting sustainability first, p21
HOLLY RUBENSTEIN
EMMA LOVE
Dream staycation escape? Gara Rock Hotel near Salcombe has been on my hotel hit list since it opened. Stylish suites that look out to the most magnificent Devon coastline, and it’s dog friendly. What’s always in your suitcase? Ear plugs. No matter how great the hotel, there can always be a noisy neighbour. What makes a great hotel stay? The perfect bed. For me that’s super soft light linen, squishy feather pillows and a sumptuous mattress. Recently, I’ve noticed a trend for extra firm mattresses, which I’m not on board with. New hidden gem? Ballater in the Cairngorms. I came across this village when staying at The Fife Arms (p18) and it had such a special quality – all individual boutiques and cafes with a beautiful tiny white and green clapboard railway station that, to my surprise, housed a Michelin Guide restaurant, Rothesay Rooms.
Dream staycation escape? The Newt hotel in Somerset. I visited recently on a day trip from London (for its Great Garden Escape experience) and everything, from the cyder tasting and vegetable garden tour to lunch in the cafe, was a joy. What’s always in your suitcase? I can’t think of anything nicer than an afternoon spent by a pool reading. Next on my list is H is for Hawk by Helen Macdonald and Grace Dent’s Hungry. What makes a great hotel stay? Staff who are genuinely passionate about what they do – it makes all the difference. Also delicious food, well-designed rooms and an unstuffy, relaxed vibe. New hidden gem? I am finally hoping to make it to Norfolk for a few days of holiday this summer. I’m looking forward to exploring the towns and blowing the cobwebs away on walks along sweeping sandy beaches.
Staycation in your favourite TV locations, p24
AMY WAKEHAM Dream staycation escape? Right now, literally anywhere that isn’t my kitchen table. More specifically, 57 Nord in the remote Scottish Highlands (p17) looks like an incredible place to hide away. What’s always in your suitcase? An eye mask and at least two books. I love the German phrase ‘doppelt gemoppelt’, which roughly translates as ‘one extra just in case’ – a sentiment I heartily approve of when it comes to holiday reading material. There’s nothing worse than having nothing to read. What makes a great hotel stay? Friendly but not overbearing staff; delicious food from local producers always with an element of surprise; and a really, really great bathroom. New hidden gem? North Wales is utterly beautiful. It’s wild and remote, with miles of golden sand beaches and moors and mountains that could be in Scotland.
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Editor Fiona Duncan Editorial Director Lucy Cleland Managing Editor Amy Wakeham Features Assistant & Sub Editor Sofia Tindall Copy Writers Emma Love, Holly Rubenstein Sub Editor Belinda Bamber Editorial & Production Assistant Ruby Featherstone Property & Marketing Associate Director Gemma Cowley Advertising Sales Director Ellie Rix Senior Account Manager Pandora Lewis Account Manager Katrina Gane Digital Manager Adam Dean Creative Direction & Production Parm Bhamra Production Designer Samuel Thomas Online Editor Rebecca Cox Online Writer Ellie Smith Online Assistant Daniella Saunders Technical Manager Hannah Johnson Finance Controller Lauren Hartley Finance Director Jill Newey Group Publishing Director Tia Graham Managing Director Jeremy Isaac Copyright © 2021/22 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. Country & Town House, Studio 2, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL, +44 (0)20 7384 9011.
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Hotel room prices are correct at time of going to press and are based on a double room rate with breakfast included unless otherwise stated. All information is correct at the time of going to press but could be subject to change due to unforeseeable circumstances.
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
AIN’T NO STOPPING US NOW
Hotels are back, HURRAH! And this time – let us pray – it’s not just for a fast and furious few months, like last year, but for good. Let’s be thankful, let’s take stock – and, above all, let’s celebrate, says FIONA DUNCAN
T
he closure of hotels in the last Covid lockdown, which ended on 17 May, went on for what felt like forever. As the reopening date approached, I could not wait to enjoy them again: to down cocktails in glamorous bars; to sink, after long and lovely walks, into fireside sofas in remote hideaways; to be soothed in sepulchral spas; to dine in rooms full of beauty, cool design, bonhomie and the finest food; to sleep in beds so comfortable that clouds would feel lumpy by comparison. There’s no doubt that hotels have had the roughest of rides since the pandemic began. Despite significant government help in the form of furlough and restart grants (and it has been considerable), enforced closure for many months has brought inevitable financial losses, which will take time to claw back. But the shutting of hotels has also thrown their importance into perspective: we have missed them terribly and we want them back. Can you imagine a staycation summer without their variety, their myriad locations and their diverse characters? Not surprisingly, many of our best and most desirable hotels and inns are heavily booked over the coming months, and if I could have a pound for every person who has been in touch asking for recommendations because everywhere they’ve tried is already full, I could buy cocktails at the bar all night. We are so lucky. That’s what I think. Leaf through this, our ninth Great British & Irish Hotels Guide, and you will find pages packed with gorgeous places to stay, from the far-flung to the fearsomely cool. Of course, every country has its fair share of fine hotels, but I’m not sure any can beat ours for its constantly evolving scene and its richly diverse concentration 12 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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FROM LEFT: The Pierhouse’s head chef fetches dinner from the doorstep; the front door of The Pig in Brockenhurst exudes hospitality
of accommodation, from historic to eccentric and hip to hygge. So let’s celebrate. Hotels are places where fun happens, love happens, recuperation happens and memories are made. I have a wonderful cache of letters from readers of my Telegraph column recalling what some of the hotels I’ve featured have meant to them. ‘I walked into the Ritz one day after the war,’ wrote one elderly gentleman a few year ago, ‘and saw the most striking woman standing in the Palm Court. It was love at first sight. We returned to the Ritz every year for one of their Saturday dinner dances and we never failed to be thrilled by its romance and glamour.’ How wonderful. I too was seduced the glamour of hotels from
a young age; my father loved them and took me as a child to tea at the Cadogan, where he told me about its association with Oscar Wilde; to lunch in the Grill Room of the Connaught, where he pointed out the great and the good of the day; and for my first cocktail at the American Bar of the Savoy. In those days, private country houses were being turned into upmarket guest houses and small hotels as the idea of weekend breaks in the countryside for city workers became more appealing. We didn’t find glamour in them but we did find character and sometimes eccentricity, which I equally enjoyed. Dining was often communal, and I’ll never forget the row that broke out between one host and his wife, culminating in the wife marching out and the 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 13
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
PATIENCE, PLEASE
Five things to be understanding about in post-pandemic hotels
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STAFF SHORTAGES Hotels are set to be rammed for the summer season, but many are struggling to find enough staff. You can always tell a new member of the team by their combination of enthusiasm and puzzlement. They are doing their best, and encouragement helps. Where there simply aren’t enough staff, just grit your teeth.
FROM ABOVE: Wonder at the slick design of Artist Residences; take tea at The Ritz’s beloved Palm Court; escape into nature at The Pierhouse
husband telling his horrified paying guests around the table to ‘get out now’. Things have changed, of course. The rough edges around hotelkeeping have largely been smoothed, and the amateur Basil Fawltys have retreated in favour of savvy operators bent on creating groups of hotels such as the Pigs, the Artist Residences or the Wee Scottish Hotel Company. However wee, however far-flung, you are just as likely these days to find a slick and sexy bolthole, oozing comfort and good living, as you are a traditional one – not that we don’t love those too when they are done with integrity and attention to detail. Oh hotels, how I love you… that first greeting, when someone bustles forward to help with the bags, that mixture of belonging yet feeling special, that certainty of days ahead containing nothing but pampered pleasure. You will have your favourites – I certainly have mine – but never have there been so many fine places to stay. So yes, let’s celebrate, let’s be grateful for our hotels (and patient as they start up again – see the panel on the right) and let’s move on from the awful pandemic. Hospitality is a remarkably resilient industry that doesn’t sit still. Delightful new places – our guide is peppered with them – are continuing to open, undeterred by recent events. One such is The Grosvenor at Stockbridge, where they have created a Cuban shack for outdoor summer dining and an Alpine refuge for winter. Simon Henderson, a first-time hotelier (but one who, in the modern idiom, exudes professionalism rather than eccentricity) opened it just as the pandemic hit. ‘Even the most experienced hoteliers must have found dealing with the pandemic incredibly tough, but we had an advantage: we simply didn’t know any different,’ laughs Henderson. Like established hoteliers, he just wants guests, and plenty of them, so that he can make them happy. Amen to that.
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QR CODES Old people like me cannot stand QR codes for ordering food and riots can break out. It minimises waiter contact but – in my view – negates the point of a hotel stay or restaurant visit, where human interaction and ‘being served’ is all part of the treat. QR code ordering is also subject to system failure; in one restaurant recently we received our puddings before our main courses.
3
OUTDOOR DINING The bizarre pandemicinduced occurrence of al fresco dining in a northern country subject to extremely inclement weather is well and truly here to stay, and in order to accommodate as many socially distanced guests as possible, hotels have embraced the phenomenon, with marquees, heaters and piles of rugs. Bring layers.
4
HYGIENE POLICY Whether their guests (especially unvaccinated ones) remain very concerned about catching Covid, or have sufficiently relaxed to put freedom above caution, hotels must still adhere to a strict, if largely self-imposed, regime of hygiene. So bear with all the rules, from one-way systems to masks in public areas… they surely won’t last forever.
5
TOO MANY GUESTS Many of us choose to stay in a hotel for the chance of some peace and quiet, but that’s unlikely this summer. With huge demand resulting in every room constantly occupied you are likely to find yourself competing for everything, from the fireside sofa to the poolside lounger. n
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I would walk
500 MILES
F
ive hundred miles is a distance synonymous with Scotland, whether it’s walking 500 miles in the classic Proclaimers hit or driving the same distance on the North Coast 500 road, the popular coastal trip covering the northern half of Scotland. If you’re keen to tick off this diverse country’s most memorable stops and epic landscapes in one trip – and stay in some of the very best hotels along the way – we have a new route for you. A 500-mile loop from east to west coast and back again. We call it: the Highland Beginner’s 500.
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
HOLLY RUBENSTEIN traces a new adventure through the wilds of Scotland
FROM ABOVE: Holly hit the road through the Scottish Highlands; meeting friendly locals en route
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
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EDINBURGH
In many respects, Scotland’s compact capital (right) is the perfect precursor for what is to come: inventive food, diverse culture, endless hills, enormous bodies of water on all sides and some of the finest hotels in the world. Conveniently located on Princes Street above Edinburgh Waverley station, The Balmoral (p148) is one of the city’s most beloved addresses, and a perfectly positioned launch pad to experience the city. Opt for a room with a view of Princes Street Gardens and Edinburgh Castle, the first of many castles on your route. So inspiring is its energy that author JK Rowling chose to finish writing the final book in the Harry Potter series, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, in one of its luxurious suites. BOOK IT: From £180 B&B. roccofortehotels.com FROM LEFT: The Scott Monument stands next to The Balmoral Hotel; a sumptuous suite
Take in Edinburgh’s unforgettable skyline
Remote and picturesque Loch Duich
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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FORT WILLIAM
Be sure to leave a full day to cover all the highlights on the road from Edinburgh to Fort William. The scenery really kicks in on the A82, winding through Rannoch Moor and Glencoe. With each turn in the road the hills grow taller, the bends sharper and the lochs larger. Soon you’ll smell the sea air as you hit the west coast at Loch Linnhe and head to Fort William, dubbed ‘the outdoor capital of the UK’ for its adventure activities. A trip to Scotland wouldn’t be complete without sleeping in a baronial mansion and the 19th-century Inverlochy Castle Hotel (right), just a caber’s throw from Fort William, was once frequented by Queen Victoria, who said she ‘never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot’. Named after the ruined medieval castle nearby, it’s at the foot of snow-capped Ben Nevis, overlooking cow-filled pastures and rolling hills. Its restaurant, Michel Roux Jr at Inverlochy Castle, is a gastronomic destination. Beginning with drinks by the fire in the Great Hall, guests are then led into one of three dining rooms – each with its own special view – to experience a five-course Franco-Scottish menu. BOOK IT: Doubles from £375 B&B. inverlochycastlehotel.com
3 ABOVE & BELOW: Inverlochy at the foot of Ben Nevis; a bed fit for a queen
KYLE
The feeling of splendid isolation grows as you journey north into the wildlands of the Highlands to reach 57 Nord (below), a new private-hire home that, as its name suggests, sits at 57 degrees latitude. With panoramic views of the serene Lochs Duich (above) and Alsh, framed by the Kintail mountains, its ultra-sleek minimalist Scandinavian design and floor-to-ceiling glass walls maximise the surrounding rugged scenery. The power of a place to affect our mood and behaviour is palpable here, particularly in summer when there are only a few hours of darkness. Be sure to visit the charming but lesser-known nearby beauty spots of Glenelg, Plockton and Applecross, too. BOOK IT: From £1,050 for three nights, off-peak, self-catered. 57nord.co.uk Drink in the view from 57 Nord
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ABOVE & BELOW: The Three Chimneys is perched on the edge on Loch Dunvegan; its delicious home-grown menu
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It’s a quick hop over Skye Bridge or a scenic ferry ride to reach the otherworldly Isle of Skye: wild, rugged and beautiful. The largest and most accessible of the Inner Hebrides islands, it’s home to some of the UK’s most striking scenery, its irregular coastline made up of a series of peninsulas radiating from its mountainous centre. In the small village of Colbost on the island’s most picturesque northern coast is The Three Chimneys, a multi-award-winning restaurant with rooms (p151). Housed in an original Skye croft, and sitting on the shores of Loch Dunvegan, it has garnered a global reputation for its menu, using ingredients mostly sourced within a few miles’ radius. Its six luxury bedroom suites make it the ideal spot from which to explore the jagged peaks of the towering Black Cuillins, the dramatic upload of the Trotternish Peninsula and the magical Fairy Pools of Glenbrittle. BOOK IT: From £365 B&B. threechimneys.co.uk
GLENCOE, Lochaber Geopark The deep valleys and mountains of Glencoe were carved out centuries ago by icy glaciers and volcanic explosions. Look out for several photogenic little white houses dotted throughout the park, which provide both scale and contrast to the brooding peaks behind.
GLENFINNAN VIADUCT, Glenfinnan This dramatic 21-arched bridge was made famous by the Harry Potter films as the crossing for the Hogwarts Express. Today, it’s used by the red and black Jacobite steam train, which chuffs across twice daily, to the thrill of fans perched on the hillside.
BRAEMAR
The drive now crosses the country from west to east coast, with the A890 to Inverness snaking along endless lochs, through deep glens, and up over mountain after mountain, showcasing the sheer magnitude of this wilderness landscape. At Inverness the route heads south, and it’s all change as you head into Cairngorms National Park. The pine forests and steep peaks change to pea-green grassy hills, dotted with Highland sheep and cows. Nestled in the rounded heathery Cairngorm hills is the village of Braemar, home to the Highland Games, and your final stop, The Fife Arms (below right). A passion project from international art dealers Hauser & Wirth, it’s a bucketlist destination for culture vultures, with an original Picasso in the drawing room and a Lucian Freud in the lobby. The design is an ode to maximalism, with Scottish heritage (think tartan and taxidermy) juxtaposed with world-class contemporary art. There’s no end of outdoor pursuits on your doorstep and beautiful Balmoral castle and the trendy village of Ballater are 20 minutes down the road. Round off your trip back at the hotel with a nightcap in Bertie’s Whisky Bar, which has a library of 365 different tipples for each day of the year. Next day it’s an equally impressive drive out of the Cairngorms to complete the Highland Beginner’s 500 back to Edinburgh. BOOK IT: Doubles from £435 B&B. thefifearms.com
The most scenic spots en route
ABOVE & BELOW: Spotting wildlife in the Cairngorms; The Fife Arms
EILEAN DONAN CASTLE, Loch Duich One of the most recognised castles in Scotland, this restored 13th-century castle on a tidal island is an easy stop-off, and the perfect place for a dip in the loch.
THE OLD MAN OF STORR, Isle of Skye This 48-metre rock pillar is one of Britain’s most extraordinary landslide features. Climb up the craggy paths that surround it to enjoy magnificent views of the island and beyond. n
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
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ISLE OF SKYE
PHOTO OPPORTUNITY
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
GREEN LIGHTS For the first time ever, the Michelin Guide 2021 featured Green Stars – awarded to 23 restaurants making great strides with their sustainability work. Forty three further restaurants were recognised for their green initiatives, from working with ecoconscious suppliers to removing plastic from their kitchens. These are the restaurants whose environmental ethics are paving the way. By EMMA LOVE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Matthew and Iain Pennington of The Ethicurean; fine dining at The Fernery; grow-your-own haute cuisine; in-season produce takes precedence; L’Enclume’s Simon Rogan; the garden at The Ethicurean; its seasonal produce on the table; Moor Hall’s organic fruit and vegetable garden
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L’ENCLUME, Cumbria
Housed in a former 13th-century blacksmith’s workshop, Simon Rogan’s flagship two Michelin-starred restaurant in the Lake District village of Cartmel now boasts a Green Star for its farmto-table menus. Most ingredients come from Rogan’s sustainable 12-acre farm, started in 2011, (animal waste is returned to the land to be used as compost) and the team pickles, ferments and freezedries everything from cabbage and radishes to peach leaves. lenclume.co.uk STAY: Storrs Hall is a 20-minute drive away (p135). storrshall.com
THE PIG AT BRIDGE PLACE, Kent
The food-centric litter of Pig hotels is renowned for putting the kitchen garden at the heart of its restaurants. And The Pig at Bridge Place in Canterbury (p78) is no exception. Here, guests walk through the greenhouse to reach the terrace, where they can tuck into wood-fired flatbreads at rustic tables. The majority of ingredients go straight from plot to plate in the main dining room’s open kitchen; the rest are sourced from suppliers within a 25-mile radius. thepighotel.com
DAYLESFORD ORGANIC FARM, Gloucestershire
Daylesford, near Kingham, has a Michelin Green Star, having pioneered sustainable farming for over 40 years. Its environmental efforts range from pasturereared rare and native breeds, solar panels, and a biomass boiler that heats the whole operation. For lunch, tuck into sourdough pizzas and salads at The Old Spot, while the main dining space for supper is the rustic Trough Café. Bring your own containers to fill up at the Zero Waste Pantry. daylesford.com STAY: Down the road at The Kingham Plough, a gorgeous village pub with rooms (p100). thekinghamplough.co.uk
MOOR HALL, Lancashire
Set in five acres of beautiful gardens at Aughton, Moor Hall’s two Michelin-star restaurant with rooms is self-sufficient in micro herbs, baby vegetables and edible flowers (p133). Led by chef patron Mark Birchall, the team cures its own meats for the charcuterie, while cheese, butter and yoghurt are produced using raw milk from a local herd of Friesians. Kitchen waste is turned into compost for the organic fruit and vegetable garden. moorhall.com
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
RITZ RESTAURANT, London
The Ritz has three beehives, each with 20,000 Buckfast bees, and a roof garden with herbs and flowers to help aid pollination (p91). In the Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant – part of the Sustainable Restaurant Association – executive chef John Williams serves up the best seasonal ingredients including lamb from the Lake District, lobsters from Scotland and, of course, natural honey that’s harvested from the hives on the roof. theritzlondon.com
THE FERNERY, NARBERTH, Wales
The restaurant at The Grove of Narberth was recognised for using spring water from its own borehole and growing its own fruit, vegetables and herbs (p142). Executive head chef Douglas Balish pairs them with the best Pembrokeshire and Welsh produce, including beef from the Preseli Hills and Saundersfoot seabass. The hotel also has a wildflower meadow, beehives, a biomass boiler and composts all garden waste. thegrove-narberth.co.uk
THE ETHICUREAN, Somerset
The Victorian walled garden is the star of the show at The Ethicurean, near Bristol, with gardener Mark Cox taking a regenerative, ‘no dig’ approach at this Michelin Green Star restaurant. Every element of the menu is designed to reduce food waste: expect natural, biodynamic wine, cider from apples grown in the neighbouring orchard and foraged edibles. Diners can choose from an informal set weekend lunch or the full immersive experience, which includes a tour of the plot and sweet treats round the fire at the end of the evening. theethicurean.com STAY: The elegant Royal Crescent Hotel is a 45-minute drive away (p55). royalcrescent.co.uk
SPRING, London
Three years ago chef Skye Gyngell campaigned to eliminate plastic from Spring, located at Somerset House. She began by replacing straws with biodegradable alternatives; a year later, in 2019, it became the first restaurant in London to have eradicated all plastics, including single-use. She also partners with biodynamic farm Fern Verrow in Herefordshire. springrestaurant.co.uk STAY: The Strand Palace hotel (p93). strandpalacehotel.co.uk
GRAVETYE MANOR, Sussex
At this country house hotel near West Hoathly (p74), fruit and vegetables for the Michelin-starred restaurant are grown organically in the kitchen garden, and this produce shapes the daily menus created by executive chef George Blogg. Don’t miss the Gravetye garden salad, available as a starter all year round, which showcases the best, just-picked, seasonal leaves. The restaurant itself is heated and cooled by thermal energy from the lake, too. gravetyemanor.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 23
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AMY WAKEHAM goes through the fourth wall to explore the historic sets that brought our favourite period dramas to life over lockdown
PHOTOS: LIAM DANIEL/NETFLIX
AS SEEN ON SCREEN
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
PHOTOS: LIAM DANIEL/NETFLIX
t is a truth universally acknowledged that during the Covid pandemic we were all glued to our screens like never before. But the stats are still fascinating: Ofcom’s 2020 study revealed that adults spent a whopping average of six hours and 25 minutes each day in front of the box, with 12 million new customers signing up to streaming services such as Netflix, Amazon Prime and Disney + over the course of the year. That’s a lot of square eyes. And what were we watching to escape the dreary monotony of lockdown life? Why, we filled our screens with the picture-postcard landscapes and heavenly historic houses of period dramas, of course. This genre always does well but has enjoyed a particular boom recently, with BritBox revealing that viewing figures saw a six-fold increase during the first week of January 2021 – ‘the Bridgerton effect’, no doubt. The heart and soul of these period dramas is often their locations, with vast country estates and quaint cobbled streets across the country in high demand from filming crews. And quite often found at the centre of this industry is Harvey Edgington, Senior Filming Locations Manager at the National Trust, who looks after all the productions that use the Trust’s 250 historic properties and 500,000 acres of countryside. ‘On average, we have three crews a day on our land,’ he explains. Although many of these are for factual shows – Great Railway Journeys or Countryfile – about twice a month this will involve shooting a big TV period drama or film. ‘I never know what I’m going to be asked every day, to be honest,’ says Harvey. ‘This week, for instance, I’ve been asked to try and find a WWII convalescence home, something “vaguely Russian”, and for somewhere to have a Napoleonic battle.’ And his role doesn’t stop once he’s found the perfect location. While filming provides valuable income for National Trust properties, with location fees going straight back into vital preservation work, their fragile, historically significant nature means a delicate hand is essential. ‘Our job is to make sure they [the film crews] can do what they want to do, but also to make sure the place is exactly as it was when they leave as when they arrived,’ explains Harvey. But that doesn’t inhibit crazy requests, from rain indoors to motorbikes driven up stairs and out of windows. ‘We just say no,’ he laughs. During Covid, many crews also wanted to ‘fog’ the locations with disinfectant after shooting, but that was another big no-no. ‘You’d get a chemical reaction on your paintings – and you don’t want to turn the Rembrandt into a Dalí.’ The good news is that, post-lockdown, you can now visit the real-life locations behind your favourite pandemic shows. Read on for six of the best as-seen-on-screen staycations.
FROM LEFT: Phoebe Dynevor gets the perfect shot in Bridgerton; driving up to Manderley in Netflix’s Rebecca
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ENOLA HOLMES
FROM ABOVE: Milly Bobby Brown as Enola; Benthall Hall; Ironbridge Gorge
Henry Cavill and Sam Claflin star in this alternative take ` on the much-loved Sherlock Holmes universe, as told from the perspective of Sherlock and Mycroft’s younger sister, Enola. netflix.com LOCATION: The National Trust’s Benthall Hall in Shropshire became ‘Ferndell’, the Holmes’ family estate. Built in 1535 on a plateau overlooking the River Severn, the house has been home to the Benthall family for over 500 years. Although it’s usually a well-cared for building, the house had to be significantly rewilded by the film crew to get the requisite overgrown look for the Enola Holmes film (nationaltrust.co.uk). WHAT TO DO: Take a guided tour through Benthall Hall’s 500 years of history, from the English Civil War to World War II, and then visit nearby Dudmaston to explore its beautiful grounds and exhibition of nature-inspired sculptures and paintings by artist Anthony Twentyman (nationaltrust.co.uk). Nearby Ironbridge Gorge, spanning the River Severn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and birthplace of the Industrial Revolution; discover more at the area’s many museums (ironbridge.org.uk). Finally, hike up The Wrekin, the highest point in the Shropshire Hills AONB, for sweeping views over the surrounding countryside. WHERE TO STAY:
Book in for a sustainable escape at Wildhive Callow Hall (p111) or explore the house as part of a weekend break at Hart’s Hotel in Nottingham (p110).
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THE PURSUIT OF LOVE
STARRING: The latest dramatisation of Nancy Mitford’s
whip-sharp high society novel, the BBC series stars Lily James as the heroine Linda Radlett and Emily Beecham as her cousin Fanny Logan, the narrator. It also features Andrew Scott as Lord Merlin and Dominic West as Uncle Matthew. bbc.co.uk/iplayer LOCATION: Described in the novel as ‘a large, ugly, north-facing Georgian house… as grim and as bare as a barracks,’ Alconleigh is the Radletts’ freezing family pile in The Pursuit of Love, based on Mitford’s own childhood family homes. It was recreated on screen using privately-owned Rousham House and the National Trust’s Dyrham Park, both in the Cotswolds. Although it’s far from ugly, Rousham’s battlements make a great rendition of Mitford’s fictional creation. WHAT TO DO: Rousham House was built in 1635 and its beautiful gardens were designed by William Kent, remaining pretty much unchanged to this day. Take a picnic and explore the grounds at your leisure – the house is open to visitors by appointment only (rousham. org). Want even more history? Blenheim Palace is a short drive away (bleinheimpalace.com). For shopping, head to nearby Bicester Village for designer discounts or to Daylesford for locally grown, organic produce and dinner in The Old Spot restaurant (daylesford.com). WHERE TO STAY: Explore the picturesque Evenlode Valley from the Kingham Plough (p100), kick back and relax at The Swan in Ascott-under-Wychwood (p102) or tee off at Feldon Valley (p99).
FROM ABOVE: The cast of The Pursuit of Love on the steps of Rousham House; majestic Blenheim Palace
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ALEX BAILEY/LEGENDARY; NATIONAL TRUST/JAMES DOBSON; THEODORA FILMS LIMITED & MOONAGE PICTURES LIMITED/ROBERT VIGLASKY
STARRING: Millie Bobby Brown, Helena Bonham Carter,
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— LET’S CADOGAN TOGETHER
— LET’S TEASE THE TASTEBUDS
— LET’S PAINT THE TOWN RED
— LET’S LONDON
I N C O M PA R A B L E
G E N U I N E
T R AV E L
B E L M O N D.CO M
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BRIDGERTON
STARRING: Lockdown’s breakout success, Bridgerton
hit our screens just when we needed it most. Making stars of its leading actors, Regé-Jean Page and Phoebe Dynevor, and becoming Netflix’s most successful show ever, it was rapidly commissioned for at least three more series. netflix.com LOCATION: If you’re looking for all-out Regency splendour, then it has to be Bath, with its sweeping Georgian crescents and historic cobbled streets. Many of Bridgerton’s glamour-filled scenes were filmed in and around the city: No 1 Royal Crescent was used as the home of the Featheringtons, the Bath Assembly Rooms for balls, the Holbourne Museum became the imposing home of Lady Danbury, and The Abbey Deli in Abbey Green was transformed into the Modiste dressmakers. WHAT TO DO: Good news: you can easily visit many of Bridgerton’s filming locations in and around Bath. Want to step back into the 21st century? Chef Gordon Jones serves up a surprise tasting menu of locally sourced ingredients at his eponymous restaurant (menugordonjones.co.uk), while Chapel Arts Centre is at the heart of Bath’s alternative art scene, with a vibrant line-up of live theatre, music and cabaret (chapelarts. org). There’s also an unmissable programme of festivals throughout the year, from the Bath International Music Festival (bathfestivals.org.uk) to the Great Bath Feast food festival (greatbathfeast.co.uk), and nearby Valley Fest (valleyfest. co.uk), which attracts top music acts from around the world. WHERE TO STAY: Go full Bridgerton at The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa (p55), get back to nature at The Pig – Near Bath (p53) or have a stylish stay at Broadstreet Townhouse (p49).
FROM ABOVE: The Bridgerton clan, soon to be seen on-screen again; catch a show at Chapel Arts in Bath
FROM ABOVE: Lily James in Rebecca; Cranborne Manor; Knowlton Church
STARRING: The small screen’s current leading
lady, Lily James, also stars in Netflix’s 2020 take on Daphne du Maurier’s classic Rebecca. The cast includes Armie Hammer as her husband, Maxim de Winter, and Kristin Scott Thomas as the formidable Mrs Danvers. netflix.com LOCATION: The Grade I-listed country pile of Cranborne Manor in Dorset was one of seven houses used to create atmospheric Manderley, Maxim de Winter’s family home. Cranbourne’s arched gatehouse was perfect for shots of the newly-weds arriving at Manderley. Its gardens are open for visitors every Wednesday (cranborne.co.uk). WHAT TO DO: Located in the Cranborne Chase AONB, as well as within touching distance of the New Forest, Cranborne Manor is surrounded by rolling green hills and miles of footpaths. The area is also an International Dark Sky Reserve, home to some of the best stargazing in the world (chasingstars.org.uk): top spots include the summit of Melbury Downs, one of the highest points in Dorset, and the ruined Knowlton Church, surrounded by the largest concentration of prehistoric barrows and henges in the UK. WHERE TO STAY: Hit the beach at Bournemouth’s Pavilion Arms (p52), stay among the trees at Chewton Glen (p60) or bliss out at Careys Manor’s SenSpa (p60).
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; KERRY BROWN/NETFLIX; LIAM DANIEL/NETFLIX; ALEX BAILEY/LEGENDARY
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REBECCA
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
5 FROM ABOVE: Olivia Coleman in The Crown; atmospheric Ardverikie Castle; take a tour of the nearby Dalwhinnie Distillery
STARRING: Series four of The Crown landed in
late 2020, starring Olivia Coleman as the Queen, Josh O’Connor as Prince Charles, Emerald Fennell as Camilla Parker Bowles and Emma Corrin as Diana Spencer. netflix.com. LOCATION: The story quickly moved to the royal’s favourite Scottish hideaway, Balmoral Castle, where young Diana underwent ‘The Balmoral Test’ to see if she was marriage material. Ardverikie Castle, on the fringes of the Cairngorms, provided the perfect stand-in for the royal residence during filming (ardverikie.com). WHAT TO DO: Strap on your walking boots and roam across this vast untouched wilderness, with its miles of footpaths. Or you can book a Land Rover safari across the estate, along with outdoor activities such as archery and clay pigeon shooting. There’s also the spectacular steam train journey from Fort William to Mallaig over the beautiful Glenfinnan viaduct (westcoastrailways.co.uk), and drams to try at the traditional Dalwhinnie Distillery a short drive away (malts.com). Finally, stock up on Scotland’s finest produce at the House of Bruar’s mouthwatering food hall in the pretty village of Blair Atholl (houseofbruar.com). WHERE TO STAY: Explore the 38,000-acre Ardverikie Estate from one of its holiday cottages, tuck into the freshest seafood at The Pierhouse (p150) or road-trip across the Highlands to The Torridon (p151).
ANNE BOLEYN
STARRING: Jodie Turner-Smith plays the eponymous
lead in this dark and foreboding psychological thriller exploring the demise of Henry VIII’s second wife. It also stars Mark Stanley as the king and Paapa Essiedu as Anne’s brother. channel5.com LOCATION: Fountains Hall was the ideal location for this historic drama. Built by Stephen Proctor as a country home at the turn of the 17th century, the exterior of the hall can be seen on screen, as can its Elizabethan herb garden (nationaltrust.org.uk). And it has real-life historical links: it’s part of the same Studley Royal estate as Fountains Abbey, a ruined Cistercian monastery that thrived until the Dissolution in 1539, when Henry VIII broke from Rome so he could marry Anne Boleyn. WHAT TO DO: Explore the ruined abbey, wander around Studley Royal Water Garden, a World Heritage site, and visit the exhibition on the Settlers Society inside the hall (nationaltrust.org.uk). You can then head down the road to nearby Bolton Castle, which was also used in filming Anne Boleyn; discover its medieval walled gardens, maze and vineyard (boltoncastle. co.uk). Refuel at Roots (rootsyork.com), Tommy Banks’ renowned Michelin-starred restaurant in York, featuring produce grown on the Banks family’s 20-acre farm, before taking a stroll through Harrogate’s Valley Gardens, 17 acres of parkland, themed gardens and historic buildings (friendsofvalleygardens.co.uk). WHERE TO STAY: Enjoy the white sands at Raithwaite Hotel near Whitby (p131), have your own period drama at Augill Castle in the Yorkshire Dales (p127) and eat like a king at Grantley Hall (p130). n
FROM ABOVE: Jodie Turner-Smith as Anne Boleyn; Fountains Hall; tuck into a Michelin-starred meal at Roots
PHOTOS: SOPHIE MUTEVELIAN/NETFLIX; DALLA EPPERSON/WIKICOMMONS; NATIONAL TRUST/CHRIS LACEY
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THE CROWN
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Embodying the quality, craftsmanship and attention to detail that runs throughout our entire luxurious pure cashmere range, this new and exclusive leaf stitch funnel neck sweater offers superior comfort and warmth without compromising on style. Our Chairman believes that its mix of intricate textures and high quality marled yarns are unmatched throughout his fifty year career, making this an extraordinary piece indeed. Wonderfully tactile and always eye-catching, as with all of our natural fibre collection, this is one very special indulgence you can’t afford to be without. PURE CASHMERE LEAF FUNNEL NECK
TT21093
|
£195
Available in four beautiful melange colours: Grey, Olive, Natural, Denim
To pre-order any item or request a copy of our mail order catalogue please call 01796 483 236 or visit us online
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY Bright sunshine and beating rain. Nature and innovation. Mythical past and powerful present. Yes, the South West is a region of contrasts – but that’s why it’s so compelling
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Neil Burnell, The Hidden Land, Devon. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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TAKE IN THE VIEW
Awaken your daydreams with the South West’s magical scenery, says Ruby Featherstone
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Zennor Coast Path
Talk a walk from Zennor to St Ives along the glorious South West Coast Path. This route takes you on a stunning journey, combining the coastal views with a good stretch of your legs and a visit to the famous seaside town. Peppered with coves and inlets where the sea invites you to dive in, this walk is beautiful even when the weather isn’t. cornwalls.co.uk/zennor
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Hope Cove
Tucked among the rock pools, Hope Cove is a gem in the crown of southern Devon. Its name is as lyrical as the view across the rock formations and the harbour wall – a spectacular sight. Taking a break from the sea and sand at the Lobster Pod Bistro (lobster-pod.co.uk) you can stare out across the waves while enjoying fresh local seafood. visitsouthdevon.co.uk
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Blackchurch Rock
Blackchurch Rock would capture anyone’s imagination. This imposing arch stack on the north Devon coast rises into the sky from its cracked, boulder-strewn base, reminiscent of a mighty king’s throne room or something from a smuggler’s tale. Looking across to Lundy Island, the emptiness of sea and sky on Mouthmill Beach frames this soaring structure. Rest among the rocks until the incoming tide sends you packing. northdevon-aonb.org.uk
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Tintagel Castle
If it’s magic you’re after, look no further than Tintagel Castle on Cornwall’s north coast. This ancient clifftop site is rumoured to be the birthplace of King Arthur, but in reality its Roman links are just as interesting. Venture down to the beach and into Merlin’s Cave where you can feel the echoes of his sorcery in the wash of the waves. english-heritage.org.uk Strolling between the heavily wooded walls of Dart Gorge, walkers come to a stretch of calm water between two cascades: the invitingly green Sharrah Pool. Here the River Dart creates beautiful pools and inlets lined with granite slabs and boulders. This spot is the perfect place for taking up wild swimming or picnicking among the trees, all to the soundtrack of flowing water. nationaltrust.org.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY
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Sharrah Pool
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Fingle Woods
The ancient Fingle Woods rest on the outskirts of Dartmoor National Park. Visitors can explore 825 acres of historic woodland, half expecting a wood elf to pop out from behind a tree at any moment. More likely you’ll come across fallow deer or spot a school of salmon in the River Teign, as you stroll towards Wooston Castle, an Iron Age hill fort. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Fisherman’s Friends
Follow in Doc Martin’s footsteps to Port Isaac, the idyllic Cornish coastal village that’s home to the Fisherman’s Friends singers, who perform in the harbour each summer. Lose yourself in their sea shanties as the sun sets on a beautiful day or an eerie fog rolls in from the sea, enveloping the cove. thefishermansfriends.com
Porthcurno Beach
Porthcurno Beach is the Cornish coastline at its best. The soft sand and dazzlingly clear sea make for a heavenly visit to the Penzance area, all the while sheltered by high cliffs on either side. If beaches don’t fit your fancy, the open air Minack Theatre will fulfil your cultural and theatrical needs, with added unforgettable views over the Atlantic waves. minack.com
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The Hurlers
Delve into the world of Daphne du Maurier’s Jamaica Inn on Bodmin Moor and explore the desolate beauty of the granite uplands with walks and picnics among the grasses. You can visit the Hurlers, three circular Neolithic rock formations, which local legend identifies as men who were turned to stone for playing the ancient game of hurling on a Sunday. visitcornwall.com
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Lorna Doone Valley
Discover scenic bridges and streams on a wander through the tranquil Lorna Doone Valley in Exmoor. For horse lovers, the trail through bridleways and woodlands makes for an adventurous hack away from your usual circuits. And with shops, tea rooms and campsites, the valley provides a beautiful escape for both locals and visitors. visit-exmoor.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY
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ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL
It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton’s Artist Residence (page 70). In the charming old quarter of Penzance they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art and a quirky collection of furniture (packing crate tables, sleigh beds) throughout. New in 2020 was the Chapel Suite, which comes with a brass bathtub in the living area. This spring, three new rooms and the Sail Loft launched; the latter is an open-plan apartment for three, tucked away in the eaves with sea views (ideal for families). The Clubhouse hangout has reclaimed wooden walls, metal tables and art to enjoy alongside your food. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner courtesy of the smoker in the garden. Here, you’ll also find a bar, table tennis and ping pong, and a new al fresco seafood shack serving local lobster rolls, chargrilled steaks and frozen margaritas. A gourmand’s delight. Doubles from £85 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk
CARBIS BAY HOTEL & ESTATE CARBIS BAY, CORNWALL
Overlooking one of the world’s most picturesque bays, with its own palm-flanked golden stretch of Blue Flag sandy beach, Carbis Bay Hotel takes prime position on the English Riviera. This summer the world’s leaders will congregate at the 125-acre estate for the G7 summit, such is its wow-factor. There are 36 individually designed rooms in the original Victorian hotel, as well as an array of selfcatering accommodation including serviced apartments and beach cottages. Eight timber clad luxury beach lodges are the newest additions with jaw-dropping sea vistas (perfect for spotting seals), direct beach access, hot tubs and personal butler service. For the finest freshly caught local seafood dress up for dining at Restaurant 1894. Down by the sea, the laid back beach club serves a light Mediterraneaninspired menu. On 2 August, the sustainably focused Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling opens, offering Cornwall inspired British food. It’s a mere two minute walk to the train station linking St Erth to St Ives – one of the most charming train lines in the UK; or walk two miles along the beautiful coastal path to St Ives. Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1736 795311; carbisbayhotel.co.uk 36 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON
Visitors descend a cliff lane and dramatic views of the English Riviera unfold. Once ensconced in the Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary – you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one. Its delightful bedrooms, with echoes of New England-style, are each supplied with a stick of rock on the snowwhite pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seasidefresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. Seven smart cottages sleep larger groups, each with their own gardens and sundowner spots. The brand new Foxes Walk Cottage is a particular showstopper. While you wouldn’t usually expect sybaritic luxury at a selfstyled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-of-the-art spa with a hydrotherapy pool, steam and sauna, and marine Thalgo treatments. Romantic, family friendly, perfect for walkers and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk
FOWEY HALL HOTEL FOWEY, CORNWALL
High above the delightful waterside town of Fowey, which famously inspired author Daphne du Maurier, stands the handsome country house that was also said to be an inspiration for Toad Hall in Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows. Inside, as in every Luxury Family Hotel, the ingredients of a perfect grownup establishment – heralded by a hall with open fires, inviting sofas and twinkling chandeliers – are mixed with the essentials of a children’s paradise: play areas, an indoor pool, an Ofsted-registered crèche, audio and visual child monitoring system and more. There are 36 rooms and suites, all beautifully refurbished and kitted out with a cohesive mix of new and lovingly restored antique furniture. The oak-panelled dining room is the setting for delicious dinners for adults, with family dining in the Garden Room restaurant next door and the same mouthwatering menus in both. But don’t think you have to have a family with you to come here: cleverly, it’s a hotel that works just as well for couples. Don’t miss the outdoor hot tub with a spectacular sea view. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1726 833866; foweyhallhotel.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 37
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THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL
‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard here in Cornwall and the Felin Fach Griffin in Wales. Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, its sweeping views stretch over the crashing waves and gorse-covered Penwith moorland, dotted with passing cows. It’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. Our favourite is Bedroom 8, a spacious new addition with its own logburning stove and terrace. There are no TVs or phones. But any panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door, be that fish from day boats or vegetables from nearby growers. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk
HOTEL ENDSLEIGH MILTON ABBOT, DEVON
This delightful Regency cottage orné is set down a mile-long drive in its own secret valley. Built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, its 100-acre gardens were laid out by Humphry Repton, whose plans included placing hidden chimneys in the woods so they could see smoke curling prettily above the trees. Today, over a delicious meal, you can gaze on the same view from lovely terraces. Repton’s raised herbaceous border, the River Tamar and the tumbling woods beyond are a mesmerising sight. With its wooden floors and doors, Endsleigh brings to mind an endearingly old-fashioned Scottish shooting lodge, artfully blended with contemporary luxury and owner Olga Polizzi’s stunning eye for design. The 19 bedrooms are stylish (think hand-painted chinoiserie wallpapers, rolltop baths and snugly quilted beds) and include three suites in the stable block. One is perfect for families, another for honeymooners, while the newest is a quirky and delightful conversion of the former hayloft. As for the grounds, they’re a fantasy of fairytale dells and grottos, cascades and crags. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1822 870000; thepolizzicollection.com 38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY
HOTEL MEUDON NR FALMOUTH, CORNWALL
Steeped in history thanks to its association with the Fox family, who were influential in the development of Falmouth in the 19th-century, this Cornish hidden gem has eight and a half acres of unique sub-tropical gardens that stretch down to a private beach, Bream Cove. An unspoilt paradise, it’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling, paddle boarding or picking up the South West Coast Path to go hiking. The hotel itself is fresh from an extensive, sympathetic refurbishment: expect contemporary lightfilled rooms with comfy beds, aromatic bath products and gorgeous views (choose from garden, sea or inland) from the balcony or terrace. The nose-to-tail cooking in the restaurant fully reflects its location and heritage, drawing influences from French classic haute cuisine (Meudon takes its name from the nearby farmhouses built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who were from an eponymous village in France), simple dishes from the 1960s and the fresh herbs and vegetables grown in the garden. Ask for a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows and admire the blooms as you tuck in. Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1326 250541; meudon.co.uk
LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON
This handsome country house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career as a Michelin-starred celebrity chef. Once the playground of the Baring banking family, it now has 21 glamorous guest rooms that take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary below them, as well as six new shepherd’s huts arranged around a pond in the grounds. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its birdlife, featured in the staircase wallpaper (hand-painted by local artist Rachel Toll), the pictures of surrounding Devonshire scenery and the soothing bedroom colour schemes. But the reason you come here isn’t really for the deep outdoor soak tubs that overlook the estuary, the tennis court or the sensational views, pampering bathrooms or complimentary G&T tray in your room – it’s to experience Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food; he earned Lympstone’s first Michelin star within six months of opening in 2017. His latest project is a vineyard he planted with 17,500 vines in 2018, and this autumn will mark another successful harvest. Doubles from £360 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 39
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL
Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, The Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated hotel. It’s a five-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Owner Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and his many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chauffeur service and the fine food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who offers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families. Doubles from £328 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk
THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL
Of Charlie and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay, this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains (the best come with a balcony with knockout views). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning – all cooked by head chef, Cornishman Jamie Porter. Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees and hydrangeas, or reclining on the new sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place. Doubles from £157.50 +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk 40 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY
THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON
As you approach this grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by luscious meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly fulfilled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a bar with wood-fired oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other Pigs, this is a total joy of a hotel. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com
THE PIG – AT HARLYN BAY PADSTOW, CORNWALL
‘Which is your favourite Pig?’ I am often asked. That’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s the latest in the litter that comes leaping to mind first. The hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s another sure-fire hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild flowers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that will be as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. Though only just opened last year, this Pig feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning kitchen garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from head chef Adam Bristow’s 25-mile menu. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 41
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL
Standing proud on the Lizard Peninsula, this one-time Victorian railway hotel has stunning, unspoilt views of the coastline. Previously known as the Polurrian Bay Hotel, in 2019 it was renamed and all the communal spaces given a fresh new look; now it feels coastal and quirky, and there’s an emphasis on great service and relaxation. The restaurant specialises in Mediterraneaninspired dishes using the finest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas made in the wood-fired Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, while listening to live music as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic views of the mature gardens and Atlantic Ocean. With easy access to Polurrian Cove beach and the South West Coast Path, a cliff-top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 12 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the outdoors and wants to explore this picturesque part of the country. For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com
SALCOMBE HARBOUR HOTEL & SPA SALCOMBE, DEVON
PHOTOS: JAMES RAM; LEE SEARLE
One of the most picturesque hotels in the west of England, set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this waterside retreat overlooks the picture-postcard Devonshire town of Salcombe. A maritime theme is subtly referenced throughout the 49 rooms and one suite, with a soothing palette of blues and whites, natural fabrics and driftwood. There’s a menu of holistic treatments on offer at the HarSPA, from scrubs and wraps to relaxing facials. A spacious seaside sanctuary, its blue and gold indoor pool is flanked with Breton-striped day beds. Chef patron Alex Aitken steers the ship at The Jetty Restaurant. As much as possible, the fish is caught locally, and you’ll often see the fishermen landing their catch just minutes from the kitchen. Summer brings a seafood and crustacean bar, too, where guests can select their fish and have chefs cook it to their liking. Come August, the Salcombe Regatta sees over 200 sailing boats compete along the estuary – so pick a room with a view, if you can. Double from £273 +44 (0)1548 844444; harbourhotels.co.uk/salcombe 42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY
THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PADSTOW, CORNWALL
Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to a memorable meal. Alternatively, you can eat more simply at Rick Stein’s Café, St Petroc’s Bistro or Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which offers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and set in charming, whitewashed village houses. There are lovely rooms above the Seafood Restaurant, while the cheapest are above the Café and the most expensive in St Edmunds House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, there’s four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s, just behind it. Finally, for a romantic retreat onebedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Doubles from £134 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com
UNA RESORT
PHOTOS: JAMES RAM; LEE SEARLE
ST IVES, CORNWALL
Just outside St Ives in gorgeous, sandy Carbis Bay, Una Resort is a collection of wood-clad lodges and luxury villas, each with chic coastal-inspired interiors, a cosy log burner for chilly evenings, a well-equipped kitchen and a private garden or terrace (the best also come with their own hot tub). When guests don’t feel like cooking, there’s Una Kitchen, previously the Cornwall Tourism Awards’ Restaurant of the Year. Led by head chef Glenn Gatland (previous experience includes Hell Bay on the Isles of Scilly and a trio of restaurants on Tresco), it’s known for Mediterranean-inspired, wood-fired cooking. Stand-out dishes include Cornish sea bream with pea and lemon risotto, slowcooked pork belly with Parmesan polenta and, of course, delicious hand-stretched pizzas. The friendly reception team can help arrange anything from surf lessons to restaurant reservations, as well as offer insider tips on what to see nearby. Or, if you simply want to stay put and unwind, the spa – with its morning gentle yoga classes, sauna and steam room, and must-book pampering Elemis treatments – awaits. Two-bed lodge from £540 for three nights +44 (0)1736 257000; unastives.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 43
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE WEST COUNTRY
Rolling vistas and luscious valleys characterise this verdant swathe of Britain, while its booming foodie scene, two dramatic coastlines and jam-packed cultural calendar provide attractions aplenty
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Mark Whitmarsh, Misty Sunrise, Dorset. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
TAKE IN THE VIEW
White cliffs, magical woods and rolling hills stuffed with history. By Sofia Tindall
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The Blue Pool
Fringed by 25 acres of heath, woodland and gorse bisected by sandy paths, Dorset’s Blue Pool is a jewel-like nature reserve at the heart of the Furzebrook estate. Named for its colour-shifting waters that transform from green to vivid turquoise (the result of fine clay suspended in the water), this enchanting pool is surrounded by trails – perfect for little ones to hunt for fairies or discover model squirrels nestled in branches. bluepooltearooms.co.uk
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Middle Hope Beach
Naturalists (not to be confused with naturists) staycationing in Somerset should steer clear of crowds at Sand Bay and head for Middle Hope beach, a spectacular ‘secret’ stretch of coastline between Sand Point and Middle Hope. This secluded spot characterised by mudflats, saltmarshes and eroded rock formations with volcanic deposits is a budding geologist’s dream. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Burrow Mump
A five-mile walk from Burrow Mump car park is the ruined 18th-century church of St Michael’s, once the site of a 12th-century ‘adulterine’ castle. From this spot you can survey Southlake Moor, the rivers Tone, Cary and Parrett and Glastonbury Tor. History enthusiasts won’t be disappointed either – Roman pottery and coins have been discovered at the site. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Radstock Sheave Wheel
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Lockeridge Dene and Piggledene
Away from the crowds at Stonehenge you can still walk among sarsen stones at Lockeridge Dene and Piggledene in Wiltshire. The unique sarsen boulder streams running through this isolated strip make a rich and diverse natural habitat for insects, birds, flowers and lichen. nationaltrust.org.uk
PHOTOS: ENGLISH HERITAGE; GETTY
Cleaving the sky several metres high, the old sheave wheel in Radstock’s town centre serves today as a relic and reminder of Somerset’s mining history. Coal mining in Somerset dates back to the 15th century, when some 240 square miles of coal seams stretched beneath the ground. You can immerse yourself in the stories of the area’s mining community at Radstock museum, which sits behind the wheel. radstockmuseum.co.uk
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THE WEST COUNTRY
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New Milestones Sculptures
In the 1980s, Common Ground commissioned New Milestones sculptures to connect visitors with Dorset’s landscape and heritage. Find Wayside Carvings by Peter RandallPage on the path to Lulworth Cove; in an adjoining field are two wheat grains carved from oak by Simon Thomas, celebrating the Celtic field systems of the area. commonground.org.uk
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West Wood
Though smaller and quieter than nearby Savernake Forest, West Woods in Marlborough is its equal in beauty. An excellent network of trails provides plenty of routes to explore this ancient woodland – keep an eye out for the megalithic long barrow. The sarsen stone from the woodland is thought to have been used to build Stonehenge, 21 miles away. forestryengland.co.uk
Studland Bay
Getting beach boredom? The best way to experience Dorset’s scenic Jurassic Coast is via the South West Coast Path. Beginning at South Beach car park, it detours via Old Harry Rock with full-throttle clifftop views, winding down through Glebeland Estate. Carry on to Godlingston Heath to see the Agglestone Rock, which local legend has it is a missile thrown by the Devil. nationaltrust.org.uk
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West Kennet Longbarrow
From Silbury Hill to Aldbourne, Wiltshire is buried (so to speak) in Neolithic long barrow tombs. West Kennet Long Barrow is an extraordinarily peaceful spot, reached after a rambling half-mile walk up to the Marlborough Downs. Dating back to 3650 BC, it’s part of the UNESCO Avebury World Heritage site that encompasses Stonehenge and Avebury. english-heritage.org.uk
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Corfe Castle
Nestled high in the rolling emerald Purbeck Hills, Corfe is a village that inspired Thomas Hardy: a warren of crooked, lost-in-time cobbled lanes and rose and ivy-covered cottages. At its apex you’ll find the magnificent ruin of Corfe Castle, or ‘Corvsgate’ in Hardy’s Wessex, with transcendental views of surrounding hills and fields. nationaltrust.org.uk
PHOTOS: ENGLISH HERITAGE; GETTY
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE BATH ARMS AT LONGLEAT HORNINGSHAM, WILTSHIRE
This is the latest venture by co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees, whose portfolio of successful country pubs with rooms also includes The Beckford Arms (see p48). Here, the trio has reinvented an 18th-century inn on the edge of the Longleat Estate, adding 16 simple yet stylish rooms in the main building and stable block. Countrysideinspired interiors feature a muted colour palette, cosy blankets on the beds and sinkinto armchairs; the biggest rooms also come with modern four-posters and roll-top baths. Local is a priority so there is gin from nearby distilleries and beer from artisan breweries (it also has its own Horning Ale), as well as wine from the Beckford Bottle Shop in Bath, all served at the wood-panelled bar. In the kitchen, chef Jack Chapman (he cut his teeth at The Beckford Arms) cooks up comforting, unpretentious favourites such as dry-aged Wiltshire steaks, hearty Sunday lunch and apple crumble to share. During the summer there’s nothing more lovely than settling down at cocktail hour on the sun-trap terrace looking out across the fields. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1985 844308; batharmsinn.com
THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE
On the Fonthill Estate, founded by the eccentric William Beckford in the 18th century, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room or pretty conservatory; there’s also private dining for 12 in the homely library or for 24 in the quiet sitting room, with its crackling log fire, comfy antique chairs and table piled with books and magazines worth reading. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar washed down with their own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners, peerless breakfasts. You sleep well too: co-owners Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton have thought of everything for the sophisticated guest, from luxurious beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws, garden flowers and Chloë Luxton’s lovely Bramley bath products. There’s an outdoor pizza oven, and the garden rambles delightfully towards the stone arch that frames views of romantic Fonthill with its lake and rolling parkland. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE WEST COUNTRY
BROAD STREET TOWNHOUSE BATH, SOMERSET
Just five minutes’ walk from the Roman Baths and Thermae Bath Spa, Broad Street Townhouse is the latest opening from Butcombe Brewery. Set in a Grade II-listed limestone building, it has 11 sumptuous, individually decorated bedrooms (choose from Snug, Signature or Signature Plus, which is set up for families with an extra sofa bed) split over three storeys. The look is modern-rustic; the colour palette calming and contemporary ranging from taupe walls to dusky pink suede headboards. Lovely details include photography and illustration art prints above the bed, and in the bathroom, colourful patterned floor tiles and organic Bramley products. There’s a laid-back cafe on the ground floor for breakfast (for those who prefer room service, you can also have pastries delivered in a wicker hamper) and all-day bites, which then morphs into an equally laid-back hang-out for cocktails, charcuterie, cheese boards and craft beers at night. Meanwhile next door, newly refurbished, lively sister venue The Pig & Fiddle serves up Sunday roasts and hearty pub classics. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1225 485760; broadstreettownhouse.co.uk
THE EASTBURY HOTEL & SPA SHERBORNE, DORSET
An early Georgian Grade II-listed gentleman’s residence in the charming historic town of Sherborne, The Eastbury is a multi awardwinning five-star hotel, fully refurbished in country house style by its owners, Peter and Lana de Savary. Guests keep returning for its understated charm, friendly staff, comfortable rooms, stand-out restaurant and great location as a base to explore the glorious Dorset countryside. The 26 bedrooms are split between traditional luxury and contemporary chic, full of colour and abstract paintings. The fabrics are superb quality and the bedrooms all enjoy crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. Five Victorian Garden Potting Shed Suites are discreetly located within the lovely garden, as is its boutique luxury spa, which has a wild meadow roof and inviting circular wooden door. On the à la carte menu at Seasons, executive chef Matthew Street’s acclaimed restaurant, dishes include burrata and aubergine agnolotti, and charred monkfish – tuck in on the delightful leafy terrace. A new addition to The Eastbury is a renovated threebedroom cottage, ideal for family breaks. Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1935 813131; theeastburyhotel.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 49
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
HOMEWOOD BATH, SOMERSET
Eclectic, luxurious and slightly eccentric, this grand Georgian country house sits in 20 acres of magnificent gardens and grounds, filled with creative artworks and ultra-modern indulgences. It stands above the village of Freshford, with its picturesque viaduct and a train line that runs to both Bradford-on-Avon and Bath, just 15 minutes away. Harnessing the spirit of the Roman’s love of a good spa, Homewood has created a pampering haven for guests, offering some wonderful treatments, an indoor hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam room as well as a heated outdoor pool. New this year are the ‘Mallingford Mews’ – ten suites, some with private terraces and hot tubs, which make the most of the countryside views. The 21 main house bedrooms which have oodles of character and great views across the Avon Valley are exceptional in quality. Each is quirky, colourful and refreshingly individual in their approach. Olio Restaurant combines Somerset ingredients with Mediterranean inspiration, with an emphasis on sustainable, often hedgerow fresh ingredients. Whether served indoors or on the extensive, outdoor terrace, dishes have a proud local provenance. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1225 580439; homewoodbath.co.uk
THE LANGFORD INN LOWER LANGFORD, SOMERSET
In the heart of the pretty village of Lower Langford, on the edge of the rolling Mendip Hills, The Langford is a historic village pub dating back to the 17th century. Newly refurbished inside and out, the pub’s design is decidedly sophisticated and photogenic, with smart leather banquettes, floral patterned chairs and statement lighting. Here, the kitchen’s passion for field-to-fork sustainability is reflected in the menu, with innovative seasonal dishes sitting alongside hearty pub classics, all created from the best ingredients the local Somerset larder has to offer. Specials change daily, in particular with fish, which is delivered fresh each day. Their local approach even extends to their beer – the award-winning Butcombe Brewery is just down the road in Wrington. There’s plenty of space for al fresco dining, with a charming rear paved courtyard, beer garden and open seating out front. Adjacent to the Inn, housed across two 17th-century barns, are seven new boutique bedrooms. Comfy, stylish and full of personal touches, with exposed beams and original brickwork, they’re perfect for a restful rural retreat. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1934 446059; langfordinnsomerset.co.uk 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE
At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17thcentury mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelinstarred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie with open kitchen. Then there’s the spa, including sleek indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms and a social lounge with a mixology bar. The impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards. For your own slice of the estate, book the new fourbedroom luxury Squire’s Cottage, or the chic, three-bedroom Keeper’s Cottage or Thatcher’s Cottage. Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations. If you yearn for a bit of grandeur, then this superb hotel perfectly fits the bill. Doubles from £435 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk
THE METHUEN ARMS CORSHAM, WILTSHIRE
The enthusiasm and drive of The Methuen Arms’ friendly team has secured the reputation of this former coaching inn as a first-rate local pub and dining experience on Corsham’s charming high street. An inn since 1608, its handsome façade is Georgian, in common with many of its neighbours, including the stately home and beautiful grounds of Corsham Court. Food is front and centre here, with a focus on local, seasonal and sustainable produce, much of which is sourced from their own kitchen garden. Outside, a new covered and heated pergola terrace, donned with festoon lights and foliage, is the perfect spot for al fresco drinking and dining. And there might be a convivial buzz in the bar downstairs (where the Duke of Edinburgh once played skittles and darts with his compatriots from the Royal Arthur Petty Officer Training School in Corsham), but all is cool and harmonious in the decoration: Farrow & Ball colours, stone and wood floors, tweed cushions and leather banquettes. Each of the cosy 19 bedrooms are reassuringly calm with comfy armchairs and Roberts radios. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1249 717060; themethuenarms.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 51
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
MOONFLEET MANOR WEYMOUTH, DORSET
Is there a more idyllic setting for a family break than the intriguingly named Moonfleet Manor? If it sounds like something out of an adventure novel, it is: steeped in smuggling history, the house formed the backdrop for John Meade Falkner’s swashbuckling novel of the same name. Built for Maximilian Mohune and overlooking Fleet Lagoon on the Jurassic Coast, the big, friendly Georgian house has a spectacular location. Its elegant and welcoming interiors provide the perfect contrast to the spine-tingling landscape of Chesil Beach, an 18 mile-long stretch of pebbles (about 180 billion, they reckon) and setting for the eponymous film based on Ian McEwan’s novel. With its Ofsted-registered crèche, verandah, indoor play zone, outdoor sandpit and playground, tennis courts, spa treatment rooms and indoor pool, plus sophisticated dining in the Mediterranean-style restaurant and bedroom decor that ranges from grand to contemporary, Moonfleet truly has something for everyone. There’s plenty to explore nearby too, from walks along the South West Coast Path that runs along the bottom of the hotel’s garden to crabbing in Weymouth. Doubles from £109 +44 (0)1305 786948; moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk
THE PAVILION ARMS BOURNEMOUTH
Arriving at this pretty Dorset pub feels like arriving on holiday, with guests greeted by palm trees out front and sea air. It’s a verdant oasis, just a 15-minute stroll from Bournemouth’s famous golden sand beaches, gardens and vibrant waterfront. The pub is under new ownership and has been completely renovated with sophisticated panache. Now a foodie destination, popular with locals and tourists alike, the menu showcases a passion for seasonality and locally sourced ingredients. The chef works closely with nearby suppliers to create innovative and delicious spins on British pub classics, with a particular focus on fresh fish and seafood caught that day. Behind the bar you’ll find award-winning Butcombe beer and cider, and a great selection of wine and cocktails. Outside, there’s a sun-soaked beer garden and spacious covered terrace for al fresco drinking and dining. There are 10 stylish new boutique bedrooms, rustic chic and full of personal touches. A perfect spot for a Bournemouth beach break with the family or a romantic Dorset escape, with Poole and Christchurch Harbour just a short drive away, too. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1202 124110; thepavilionarms.co.uk 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET
This may be just one of several ruralthemed Pig hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Home Grown Hotels group: a proper, grownup hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. ‘It’s The Pig on steroids,’ says owner Robin Hutson (though luckily not the price, which is the opposite of pumpedup). Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle. As at all the Pigs, the kitchen garden is central and its abundant produce appears on your plate in the lovely conservatory. It’s a great venue for one of the fantastic Smoked & Uncut festivals, which are held at Pig hotels and Lime Wood (p62) over the summer. You can book a room or glamp in a bell tent if the mood takes you. Rooms from £170 +44 (0)1761 490490; thepighotel.com
THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET
With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18thcentury house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views? You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep-flecked fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a muchloved seaside sibling in the drove of Pig hotels and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with signature 25-mile menu) and walled kitchen garden there are quirkily different bedrooms, including a charming shepherd’s hut with log fire and separate bathroom. There’s a buzzy outdoor bar with a wood-fired oven for delicious loaded flatbreads, a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut (complete with its own ice cream cart), and essential beach bags, mats, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel. For fun in the sun, and smiles on faces, you need look no further. Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 53
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE RECTORY CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE
Originally the rectory to a nearby church before it became a country house hotel, this Grade II-listed Georgian building was revamped and reopened by former music executive Alex Payne in 2017. Now the house, built from beautiful golden Cotswold stone, has 18 pared-back but beautiful bedrooms: 15 in the main house, plus three in a separate cottage, all kitted out with contemporary furniture, beds with smart velvet headboards in shades such as mustard or navy, and roll top baths with luxurious Bramley products in the bathroom. Here, all the little details have been considered, from the smart TVs to the honesty bar that’s stocked with brandy and whisky for anyone who fancies a nightcap. Downstairs there are two inviting sitting rooms with sinkinto sofas, board games, paperbacks and in winter, a crackling log fire. Food is served in the relaxed wood-panelled dining room, the airy glasshouse and in the tranquil garden, where there’s also a heated pool for yearround dips. Popular sister pub, The Potting Shed, is just over the road too, for equally delicious suppers and fine ales. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com
RED LION FREEHOUSE EAST CHISENBURY, WILTSHIRE
A short drive from Stonehenge, this quintessential English pub is run with unpretentious warmth by committed owners Guy and Brittany Manning and their close-knit team. The couple – who met while working in a New York restaurant – are incredibly hands-on in the day-to-day running, including overseeing the menus in the restaurant and 12-seater dining room upstairs. Head chef Daniel Barker prepares wonderful dishes such as the signature roast chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef for two with hand-cut chips and sauce béarnaise, while Brittany whips up laminated pastries for breakfast (the eggs Benedict is another must-try) using butter that is hand-churned weekly by Guy’s father. The personal, family-run feel continues at Troutbeck, their converted bungalow turned guest house across the road which contains five chic bedrooms (the Manser room is dog friendly). Each has a private deck overlooking the idyllic River Avon, where you can fish for trout. Thatched and pretty as a picture, the Red Lion Freehouse is also popular with walkers and cyclists, and makes a great bolthole for anyone wanting to explore the countryside. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1980 671124; redlionfreehouse.com 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE WEST COUNTRY
THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH, SOMERSET
In the heart of beautiful Bath (as seen on screen in Netflix hit Bridgerton, p28) lies The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, a five-star destination expertly combining first-class service and meticulous attention to detail. John Wood the Younger’s 250-year-old Georgian terrace remains truly magnificent to this day. The hotel’s 45 suites and rooms, most of which offer unrivalled views over the hotel’s pretty herbaceous borders or the Crescent’s impressive lawn, are among the UK’s most memorable places to stay. There’s a choice of three decadent afternoon teas, all served in the hotel’s beautiful English gardens or in the elegant Dower House Restaurant. The Spa & Bath House is another wonderfully atmospheric haven, so after unwinding with an Elemental Herbology treatment, why not relax in the Taittinger Spa Garden with a glass of rosé and a delicious lunch? The hotel has recently welcomed three rescue hedgehogs to its gardens; keep an eye out for them snuffling around, especially as the sun starts to set. Doubles from £360 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk
THE TALBOT INN MELLS, SOMERSET
The owners of the excellent Beckford Arms and The Bath Arms at Longleat (both p48), Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton, and their third partner, Matt Greenlees, scored an immediate hit with this second atmospheric inn, in Mells, with its lovely old stone houses. Enter through the historic carriage arch, which leads to a cobbled courtyard backed by a succession of cosy dining areas – one a map room, another with a roaring fire and yet another with a bar. There’s a separate sitting room, fashioned from a 500-year-old barn. There’s excellent pub grub, from dayboat-landed fish and chips to well-aged steaks. As for the eight bedrooms, they’re stylish and amazing value, with the extra touches you’d expect from The Beckford Arms, such as superb beds, rain showers and hot water bottles. Explore the village and its exceptional church, go horseriding, antique-hunting or explore local gardens like Longleat and Hauser & Wirth. You’ll sleep in utter peace after all that. A real gem. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1373 812254; talbotinn.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 55
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
A grey horse at dawn, the New Forest
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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
This slice of southern Britain is where sea and sky meet: where the fringes of ancient forest brush their branches against white sands. It’s wild and wonderful, and rich in unforgettable wildlife
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TAKE IN THE VIEW
Soak up sun, sea and sand on the leafy south coast, says Amy Wakeham
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The Beaulieu River
The sleepy Beaulieu River drifts from the very heart of the New Forest to the sunny shores of the Solent. The best way to see it has to be by boat, and you can rent a kayak from New Forest Activities. A local guide will take you to explore all the river’s hidden creeks and streams, and to spot wildlife like kingfishers, kestrels and even the occasional seal. newforestactivities.co.uk
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Hayling Billy Trail
The Isle of Wight isn’t the only island off the Hampshire coast. Situated between Portsmouth and Chichester harbour, Hayling Island is ideal for water sports lovers. Windsurfing was invented here, and its miles of unspoilt beaches are perfect for swimming, surfing or sailing. The best way to explore on foot or by bike is via the Hayling Billy Trail, a five-mile off-road path that follows a disused railway line. hayling.co.uk
Hampshire was the birthplace of Jane Austen, so no visit would be complete without some literary inspiration. The Elizabethan manor, Chawton House, was owned by Jane’s brother and today is the home of the Centre for the Study of Early Women’s Writing. Explore the gardens before visiting the Jane Austen House Museum (janeaustens.house) in her former cottage nearby. chawtonhouse.org
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Farlington Marshes
Nature lovers will adore Farlington Marshes Nature Reserve, almost 300 acres of wild, flower-strewn marshland in Hampshire’s Langstone Harbour. There’s a blustery 2.8 mile walk around its sea wall, best done with binoculars in hand to spot the reserve’s teeming birdlife. It’s especially good in winter when the wigeons, teals, avocets and redshanks return, and short-eared owls can be seen hunting over the marshes. hiwwt.org.uk
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Ashlett Creek
Just off Southampton Water is Ashlett Creek, a hidden inlet that’s a haven for small sailing boats. It’s also home to The Jolly Sailor, a 160-year-old pub that’s a favourite with locals and visitors alike. Landlubbers can work up a thirst with the lovely 45-minute walk along the coast to Calshot Beach, where you can take in views of the Solent and the Isle of Wight. jollysailorashlettcreek.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; CLAIRE LEWIS
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Chawton House
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Wickham’s Water Meadows
Wickham can be found among the lush hills of the Meon Valley. At its heart is a large medieval square, surrounded by quaint cottages and Georgian houses. A short walk from the centre are the Water Meadows, eight acres of greenery that are ideal for a paddle and a picnic. Use it as a starting point for tackling the nine-mile Meon Valley Trail. wickhamsquare.co.uk
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Shanklin Esplanade
Shanklin on the Isle of Wight was named sunniest spot in the UK last July, with a whopping 262 hours, 19 minutes and 2 seconds of sunshine recorded that month. Its beach is also pristine, with candy-striped huts and golden sand. Catch the beautiful sunsets at the Fisherman’s Cottage Inn, a 200-year-old pub right at the end of the beach. fishermanscottageshanklin.co.uk
Isle of Wight Coast Path
The best way to see the Isle of Wight has to be on foot. At around 70 miles long, its coast path stretches around the whole island, and takes in famous sights like Osborne House, Yarmouth Pier and the cliffs of Culver Down. Haven’t got all week? A must-do stretch of the route is from Freshwater Bay to the jaw-dropping Needles chalk stacks, covering about six miles. visitisleofwight.co.uk
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Ventnor Botanic Garden
With its own unique microclimate, the Isle of Wight is a gardener’s delight. Ventnor Botanic Garden is a paradise of subtropical plants and flowers that are rarely, if ever, found on the mainland. Unwind in the gardens and take an outdoor qigong or yoga class before sitting down to enjoy garden-fresh produce in the Edulis restaurant. botanic.co.uk
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Exbury Gardens
Comprising 200 acres of leafy woodland, Exbury Gardens is a secluded idyll in the middle of the beautiful New Forest National Park. Take a stroll through its landscaped woods and herbaceous, contemporary, formal and wildflower gardens, all set along the banks of the pretty Beaulieu River. It even has its own replica Victorian station and steam railway, which chugs a scenic route around the gardens. exbury.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; CLAIRE LEWIS
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CAREYS MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE
When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation – it’ll be just the ticket. The spa hotel occupies a striking redbrick Victorian manor in neat gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst and is the sister hotel of The Montagu Arms (see p63). The reception room has oak-panelled walls and an open fire to welcome you in. Seventy seven large, comfortable bedrooms await you upstairs, combining modern amenities with traditional country house style. Some have four-poster beds and others with their own patio – ideal for soaking up the sun alongside your morning coffee. But what really makes Careys Manor stand out is its award-winning SenSpa, where you will be pampered with a mind-boggling range of treatments, from a traditional Thai massage to a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, refined yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic Thai food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau. Doubles from £229 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com
CHEWTON GLEN NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE
One of the country’s finest hotels, Chewton Glen has seamlessly moved with the times since it opened over half a century ago. The eight-bedroom house, where Captain Marryat wrote The Children of the New Forest, has gradually expanded to become a 72-room bastion of luxury, with gorgeous bedrooms, a lavish spa, croquet lawn, children’s club and a nippy nine-hole golf course that will excite even golfers with the lowest of handicaps. With an open format grill menu that ranges from light dishes to splendid silver trolleys bearing meats and cheeses, The Dining Room stretches across five delightful rooms. Complementing the main house restaurant is The Kitchen, an informal restaurant and purpose-built cookery school, created in association with chef James Martin and set within the 130-acre estate. There are also 14 extraordinary, tranquil treehouses built on stilts that can be found in the capacious leafy grounds, as well as 70 thriving bee hives, a spectacular newly refurbished spa and a purpose-built kids’ club called The Beehive. You may well leave Chewton Glen with green fingers. Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WHITE
EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE
Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland, where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley. When he bought the pub in the mid1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands off our public bar’. ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me,’ he says. For a plain room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right. For some of the best food in the New Forest – it has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms – in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. As you’d expect, breakfast is spot on. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE
Just one hour from London, Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire will transport you to another world amid 500 acres of beautiful nature on the Dogmersfield Park Estate. Embrace country living and enjoy watching the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the comfort of recently redesigned guest rooms and suites. Immerse yourself in the surroundings and abundant activities including croquet, clay pigeon shooting, fishing, cycling, and more, while children can let loose in the kids’ playground or family adventure pool Sharkie’s Reef. Located in the original 18th-century stable block, the large light-filled spa, 20-metre adult pool and outdoor vitality pool offer opportunities to relax, reconnect and recharge. The world renowned Four Seasons service is exemplary, and food and beverage offerings from the Wild Carrot restaurant and bar makes perfect setting for memorable meals. Sunday lunch is a highlight, featuring entirely local produce from the heart of Hampshire. For a quintessentially British afternoon tea, head for The Library, a cosy spot for a comfy chat. Doubles from £667 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 61
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE
Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim in the lake, picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own recently certified biodynamic greenhouses, market garden and farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and flop-down homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak floors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heckfield Place, once home to Charles ShawLefevre, who became Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic (fine 20th-century English pictures from the owner Chan family’s private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining (The Assembly has a curated programme of films and events). There’s also a discreet wellness spa, and the authentic and delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Marle and Hearth restaurants, plus afternoon tea in the beautiful Glass House. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original room types. Doubles from £350 +44 (0)118 932 6868; heckfieldplace.com
LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE
It’s all about attention to detail at this ravishing, deeply luxurious New Forest lair. Oak doors are thick, paint finishes fresh and soft floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent bedroom. Stylised sitting rooms melt one into another, pale lemon into sage green, each with an open fire. In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, take in forest views from the massive sauna and eat inspired raw food in the Raw & Cured café. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett, and the hotel’s own chef, Luke Holder. Italian-influenced forest dishes and sharing plates are served in gorgeous, warmly coloured, laid-back surroundings. The glamour is there, but the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the mood. And as for the hotel’s Lake Cabin? It just has to be one of the most romantic hideaways in the country. Doubles from £395 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE
Six years ago, young hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America, an open-plan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com
THE MONTAGU ARMS BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE
Combining all the attributes of a traditional country house hotel – roaring log fires, oak panelling, pretty gardens and warm, comfortable bedrooms – with the pleasures of a picturesque village setting, The Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a break. Browse Beaulieu’s pretty high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the surrounding New Forest National Park. Back in the hotel you’ll find a dark oak hall that contrasts with the bright, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory and flowerfilled gardens. Upstairs there are fabulous, newly refurbished bedrooms, which stay true to the hotel’s heritage while enjoying contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. In the elegantly decorated, awardwinning Terrace restaurant a treat is in store: the modern, refined cuisine of new head chef Matthew Whitfield, who uses the best of the New Forest and the hotel’s own produce to create dishes that take local provenance seriously, engage all the senses and bring an element of theatre to the table. A stay you won’t forget in a hurry. Doubles from £229 +44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 63
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
NEW PARK MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE
The 17th and 21st centuries fuse impeccably at this New Forest hotel, part of the Luxury Family Hotels collection. The manor was Charles II’s favourite hunting lodge and still has its original fireplaces, panelling and oak leaf-patterned doors, alongside all the contemporary comforts that you – or your children – could possibly need. The 25 bedrooms are divided between the manor and a modern wing, which also houses an indoor pool and Elemis spa with an outdoor hot tub, pool and thermal rooms. While you unwind, babies and toddlers can be cared for in the crèche (one session offered for each night’s stay), and older children might watch a movie at the cinema room or play games in the extensive gardens. For active families, there’s an outdoor pool (open May to September) and plenty of walks and cycle trails through the surrounding forest – take a picnic and make a day of it. The hotel provides all sorts of equipment, from bed guards to bottle warmers, and a listening service so that parents can enjoy a stressfree, grown-up dinner in the sophisticated Stag restaurant. Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1590 623467; newparkmanorhotel.co.uk
NORTH HOUSE COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT
PHOTOS: BROCK MILLIGAN
It’s well worth the short, steep climb from Cowes’s High Street to the top of Sun Hill and this engaging 19th-century, Grade II-listed townhouse, the town’s very first boutique hotel. Apart from the splendid sea views (best from some of the bedrooms), North House has been sympathetically restored and decorated with flair. Public rooms and bedrooms sport tasteful Farrow & Ball wallpaper or paint, with a nod to the nautical here and there. The 14 bedrooms come in three categories: cosy, comfy and spacious, though even the ‘cosies’ are a good size. They have everything you could want and more, including Roberts radios, hair straighteners and Ren products (some also come with wood-burning stoves or freestanding bath tubs). There’s a distinct emphasis on the fruits of the sea on the menu in the relaxed restaurant, which blends rustic and seaside chic with its scrubbed wooden furniture, white tongueand-groove walls and photographs of boats. From March to late October, the heated outdoor pool is open and the dining terrace and cloistered garden come into their own. Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1983 209453; northhousecowes.co.uk 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE PIG, BROCKENHURST BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE
Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of The Pig at Brockenhurst. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25-mile radius. This local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of The Pig and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011. Here at Brockenhurst, the hotel, which is celebrating its 10th year, is located in a handsome Georgian shooting lodge that stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on offer. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard. Calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic aesthetic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include fun family rooms and rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed. Oh, and there really are pigs, too. Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com
THE PIG – IN THE WALL
PHOTOS: BROCK MILLIGAN
SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE
If The Pig – at Brockenhurst is the country house, then this is its town cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton.Charmingly embraced by the city’s Medieval defensive walls, it’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train from London. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, and boilyour-own eggs, and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen-cum-parlour. For lunch you can graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as reception, too. Later you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, jump into the hotel’s Land Rover for a free ride home to a delicious dinner at The Pig. Once you’re settled back at The Wall for the night, you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 65
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE HOME COUNTIES
From vineyards to fishing villages, and chalk cliffs to cathedrals, these six unique counties are bursting with unforgettable things to see, do, eat and drink
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Adrian Mills, West Pier Starlings, East Sussex. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
TAKE IN THE VIEW
Spectacular spots within an arm’s reach of London. By Daniella Saunders
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Canterbury Cathedral
A significant piece of architectural, religious and political history dating back to 597AD, Canterbury Cathedral in Kent is one of the UK’s oldest churches – and a beautiful one at that. Founded by Augustine and now seat of the Archbishop, the cathedral’s spectacular Gothic exterior, and stained-glass windows of over 1,200sq/m, have been welcoming pilgrims and visitors for over 1,400 years. canterbury-cathedral.org
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The Savill Garden
Explore 35 acres of beautiful woodland and gardens at this botanical idyll in Windsor Great Park. The varicoloured garden – designed by Sir Eric Savill in 1932 under the instruction of King George V – comprises an array of rare plants, from a captivating hybrid strawberry tree to Daphne bholua, an attractive plant species native to the eastern Himalayas. windsorgreatpark.co.uk
At 162m above sea level, Beachy Head in Sussex offers sensational sea views across the English Channel, where you’ll also spot the renowned red and white Beachy Head Lighthouse. Following a languorous and scenic walk along the headland, unwind and delight in a hearty meal at the award-winning (and dog-friendly) Beachy Head pub and restaurant. vintageinn.co.uk
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Ashridge Estate
Home to fallow deer, ancient woodland and a sea of bluebells come spring, Hertfordshire’s historic 5,000-acre Ashridge Estate is a must. Enjoy a scenic hike among the greenery – there are a number of waymarked walks to explore, plus more than 30 miles of public bridleways. If you have time, be sure to stop by Ashridge House, Henry VII’s former royal residence. nationaltrust.org.uk
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RHS Garden Hyde Hall
There is much to discover in this 360-acre garden oasis in Chelmsford. You’ll find over 400 species of exotic plants in the Dry Garden, meandering paths amongst the woodland in Birch Grove (as well as a beautiful series of white and pink foxgloves in springtime), and an impressive, circular, ‘global growth’ vegetable garden that grows seasonal produce for the on-site restaurant. rhs.org.uk
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PHOTOS: GETTY; MATT CHUNG; CHRIS LACEY/NATIONAL TRUST
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Beachy Head
THE HOME COUNTIES
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Chartwell
Sir Winston Churchill once said: ‘A day away from Chartwell is a day wasted’ – and it’s easy to see why. The gardens at the former prime minister’s family home in Kent – now owned by the National Trust – are particularly arresting, featuring a colourful walled garden (which Churchill helped to build himself) and a beautiful garden of roses designed by his wife Clementine. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Strawberry Hill House & Garden
Horace Walpole’s ‘little gothic castle’ in Twickenham, this ornate property dates back to 1747 and was originally built as a summer home for himo. For more than 250 years the estate has welcomed visitors to roam the beautiful gardens and house – Walpole himself permitted visitors to delight in a tour. strawberryhillhouse.org.uk
Newlands Corner
If a peaceful meander through rolling hills is your idea of time well spent, you can’t go wrong with Newlands Corner. The 255-acre reserve in Guildford lies within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, providing spectacular views across the Surrey Hills, which appear to extend for miles. Renowned for its unspoiled landscape, we recommend visiting in spring when the wildflowers are blooming. surreywildlifetrust.org
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Waddesdon Manor Gardens
PHOTOS: GETTY; MATT CHUNG; CHRIS LACEY/NATIONAL TRUST
Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild built this extravagant Buckinghamshire country house in the 19th century, and it’s just as awe-inspiring as ever. The spectacular estate – home to a number of Rothschild family treasures, from sumptuous textiles to historic artworks – has been used as a filming location for a number of prominent series and films, from The Crown to Ben Wheatley’s Rebecca (2020). waddesdon.org.uk
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Great Dixter House & Gardens
Gardener and writer Christopher Lloyd lived at this idyllic East Sussex home, where he wrote a number of his revered horticultural books. Today, the thriving estate is looked after by the Great Dixter Charitable Trust and head gardener, Fergus Garrett, who welcomes visitors to delight in the bucolic gardens and soak up the property’s compelling history. greatdixter.co.uk 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX
The story of the Artist Residence group began 13 years ago when Justin and Charlie Salisbury first met as students. Justin’s mum, who’d just bought a Brighton guesthouse in need of renovation, was seriously injured in an accident and 20-year-old Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he filled the listed townhouse with artists, asking them to decorate the rooms in return for free board. And so the first Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born. It was soon joined by three more, in Penzance (p36), Pimlico (p84) and Oxford (p70), and now there’s a new outpost in Bristol in the pipeline. The Brighton original has sea views and retro-style bedrooms ranging from tiny crash pads to a huge suite. The two newest art bedrooms were designed by Ben Eine and Pure Evil, while artists Maria Rivans, Charlie Anderson, Fox Fisher and Jessica Albarn have designed four other fabulous rooms. There’s also the Clubhouse, a relaxed neighbourhood hangout serving breakfast, drinks and small plates. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidence.co.uk
ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE
When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners Justin and Charlie Salisbury. This energetic couple, complete with new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. There are now five stunning bedrooms upstairs and a further three suites in the stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. The restaurant features art by the Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow, while the kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food (fish and chips, rump steak) in a fun and friendly setting. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance (p36), Pimlico (p84) or Brighton (above), then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your next country hideaway. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk 70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE HOME COUNTIES
BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX
A stroll across parkland from secluded Climping Beach, Bailiffscourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms ranging from medieval to contemporary in style, spread throughout a series of charming houses and cottages in the parkland. The newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. The more traditional – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The charming courtyard and rose garden is the ideal spot for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine. The name Bailiffscourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13th-century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today. Doubles from £285 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk
BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY
Beaverbrook is a magnificent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played (several times) and it’s fabulous. Originally Cherkley Court, the former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century wedding cake architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and famous visitors, like Elizabeth Taylor and Rudyard Kipling. There’s Japanese cuisine in the dining room, stunning views of formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse and kid’s club. The separate brick and flint Garden House offers a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant, cookery school and 11 bedrooms. The Coach House Suites are perfect for family stays, bringing the total number of rooms to 35. The crowning glory is the nature-based Coach House Health Club & Spa, designed by stained glass artist Brian Clarke, which offers an array of transformative wellness experiences carefully curated by Spa Director Rene van Eyssen and her team. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills. Doubles from £570 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 71
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX
A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of our greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously GM at nearby Gravetye Manor, mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food from chef Alex Jacquemin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many stunning gardens and vineyards nearby. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk
CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE
Can any other grand country house hotel match Cliveden? Set high above the Thames, in 376 acres of National Trust-owned land, this stately home was built in 1666 for the second Duke of Buckingham and became home to the Astor family in 1893. Its recent restoration has left it looking quite ravishing, with 48 bedrooms that range from spectacular suites to deluxe doubles and include four with their own hot tubs. Plus let’s not forget Spring Cottage, hidden in the grounds – this beautiful three bedroom home sits on the banks of the River Thames and is the perfect retreat for the utmost in privacy and escapism. As for food, the choice includes gourmet dishes in the amazing Cliveden Dining Room or a more informal menu at the Astor Grill, both courtesy of talented executive head chef, Paul O’Neill. The unveiling of the fabulous new spa in 2017 added the final layer of icing to this very celebratory cake. Cliveden was built for entertaining and no one, from Churchill to Chaplin, could resist an invitation. Nor should you. Doubles from £445 +44 (0)1628 607107; clivedenhouse.co.uk 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE CRAB & LOBSTER SIDLESHAM, WEST SUSSEX
A place for all seasons, this delightful 350-year-old hideaway and sibling of Halfway Bridge (p75) is stunningly located at Sidlesham Quay, a grassy expanse on the banks of Pagham Harbour nature reserve, once occupied by a tidal mill. Its views stretch to the distant sea across salt marsh and woodland, with a tracery of creeks. The four attractive, comfortable bedrooms in the renovated 16th-century pub, plus the two-bedroom Crab Cottage next door, are all decorated with stylish simplicity in restful pastel shades. In the top-floor eyrie there are binoculars for a closer look at that remarkable view, and plenty of extras in all the rooms, from fridges to fresh flowers. Downstairs you’ll find slate floors, cream-painted and bare brick walls, smart contemporary furniture and an open fire. And dishes that are just right for the location: perhaps go for the fillet of seabass, Selsey crab fregola and fennel marmalade with sea vegetables, paired with a crisp white wine – perfect. West Wittering beach, the cathedral city of Chichester and Goodwood Racecourse are all within easy reach. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1243 641233; crab-lobster.co.uk
FAIRMONT WINDSOR PARK WINDSOR, BERKSHIRE
With a positively regal position next to Windsor Great Park and The Savill Garden, the new Fairmont Windsor Park is one of 2021’s most anticipated hotel openings. It’s poised to become one of the UK’s leading wellness retreats, with a vast, sprawling spa offering many experiences that are the first of their kind in the UK, like a dry flotation room and a full-body cryotherapy chamber, alongside indoor and outdoor pools. Eighteen treatment rooms are ready for the ultimate in pampering, while four wellness rooms will offer specialities like osteopathy and colon hydrotherapy. And you’ll be in expert hands with a team of therapists, nutritionists and personal trainers on hand to curate a bespoke wellness pathway to maximise your stay. Many of the spacious bedrooms and suites have glorious views of the landscaped gardens, and offer that feeling of a true sanctuary – so essential for a spa holiday. True to its royal setting, the Orchid Tea Room is the perfect spot for an afternoon tea and fine dining restaurant 1215 has a menu of quality British cuisine fit for a Queen, showcasing produce from the neighbouring Royal Farms in Windsor Park. Doubles from £375 +44 (0)1784 535555; fairmont-windsorpark.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 73
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THE GALLIVANT RYE, EAST SUSSEX
The newly re-awakened Gallivant is not just hotel business as usual. It is somewhere to reconnect with simple pleasures. To learn and experience new things. A welcoming home from home that you leave not simply sated but intrinsically happier. The sand between your toes, and sky and beach as far as you can see. Wonderful food made with love and deeply comfortable beds. The Gallivant is open for the exclusive use of overnight guests and a handful of members, giving everyone space and an enhanced sense of hospitality. The Complete Gallivant includes amazing breakfasts, morning elevenses, English wine and an exquisitely simple dinner. Most of the 20 bedrooms open onto the private coastal garden where you’ll find the Beach Hut mini spa for a restorative Bamford treatment. And adjoining the hotel is the new Summer House, where there’s a daily timetable of Experience classes in everything from yoga and pilates to English wine tasting, hosted by experts in the field. All the classes are free for guests, so you have everything to gain and nothing to lose. Doubles from £337 +44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk
GRAVETYE MANOR WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX
It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, that Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor and its famous gardens as a hotel. A classic of its kind, it’s now in the caring hands of Jeremy and Elizabeth Hosking, who have kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising it. Today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty staff, the profusion of naturally arranged flowers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. Andrew Thomason is the consummate general manager, while George Blogg’s Michelin-starred food, served in the stunning, glass-fronted dining room, is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the 35-acre gardens – which were originally created in 1885 by visionary gardener William Robinson and are now considered some of the most historically important in England – have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. They are quite wonderful and transform lunch on the terrace into an unforgettable treat. Doubles from £298 +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk 74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE GROVE CHANDLER’S CROSS, HERTFORDSHIRE
Set in 300 acres of verdant Hertfordshire countryside, just 18 miles from London, The Grove is the ultimate five-star retreat. Over the last two years the hotel has undergone an extensive refurbishment by award-winning interiors studio Martin Hulbert Design, and is now home to a range of luxurious bedrooms and suites, elegant lounges and two unique restaurants, The Glasshouse and The Stables, not forgetting the various different seasonal pop-ups. A short stroll from the historic mansion you’ll find the Sequoia spa and, beyond that, the championship golf course that played host to the 2016 British Masters. Outside, the breathtaking grounds promise all manner of settings to explore, including Asher’s Woodland Trails – perfect for family activities such as Segway experiences, archery and laser clay shooting. The Grove’s hidden gem is its enchanting Walled Garden, complete with Ralph’s Beach (think sand, deckchairs, buckets and spades), Jemima’s Kitchen Garden, which provides homegrown fruit, veg and herbs for the chefs, and the beautifully rustic Potting Shed, a plant-filled haven in which to relax and unwind. Doubles from £370 +44 (0)1923 807807; thegrove.co.uk
THE HALFWAY BRIDGE LODSWORTH, WEST SUSSEX
If you love the Crab & Lobster (p73) at Sidlesham (and who doesn’t?), then make tracks for its younger sibling in the South Downs National Park. Near Petworth, it stands back from the A272, the only road we know to have had a book written about it: Ode to a Road, by Pieter Boogaart. The 250-year-old inn has been completely restored by owners Sam and Janet Bakose, and now has eight bedrooms fashioned from a beamed stable block that overlooks a sunny lawn, with woods to the rear. The five standard and three deluxe rooms are all individually styled and full of character, plus a new shepherd’s hut has just been added to the accommodation options. Superior pub grub is served in a choice of intimate nooks that circle the central bar, with exposed brick walls, parquet floors, open fires and wood burners. For those looking for a private space, the beautiful party room seats 15 for an unforgettable celebration. Put simply, Sam and Janet have what it takes: good taste mixed with warmth, common sense and an assured, professional touch. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1798 861281; halfwaybridge.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 75
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HARTWELL HOUSE VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you’d never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings. The Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning rococo ceiling by Thomas Roberts of Oxford. There’s also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall – the king’s wife, Marie Joséphine of Savoie, had them removed because their candlelit shadows frightened her. If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall & Spa (p140) and Middlethorpe Hall (p132), the hospitality is natural and easy-going, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand and the food as delicious as you would expect. And the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight. Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com
HORSE & GROOM EAST ASHLING, WEST SUSSEX
This centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned pub was a local haunt of jeweller Annoushka Ducas and her businessman husband John Ayton for nearly 20 years before the pair decided to buy it in 2019. The pub had lost some of its charm, and their aim was to restore and redesign, putting it back at the centre of village life again. Now, there are 10 cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams and a palette of soft, calming hues. The elegant dining room – where guests can polish off dishes such as local Selsey crab or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings – has a backdrop of mid 20th-century paintings, a handcrafted oak floor and interesting collections of Italian sardine pots and vintage gardening books. Beers on tap in the bar include Hophead, the golden pale ale from Dark Star brewers in Partridge Green. With its location four miles west of Chichester and on the edge of the South Downs National Park, it’s especially popular with walkers and those attending events such as Glorious Goodwood and the Festival of Speed. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub 76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE MITRE HAMPTON COURT EAST MOLESEY, SURREY
Set on the banks of the River Thames, overlooking the magnificent Hampton Court Palace, this new opening has already become a firm favourite with those in the know. Its history is quite the draw: housed in a Grade II-listed building dating back to 1665, it was originally used as ancillary accommodation for guests of King Charles II. Interiors lovers will swoon at the design, too. Here, Nicola Harding has curated the most photogenic individually styled bedrooms, all named after historical references linked to the hotel. Choose from views over the Thames, palace or charming internal courtyards. Then there’s the fantastic culinary offering. The Orangery has one of the largest riverside terraces on the Thames, along with the world’s first Whispering Angel concession – a blissful space for rosé sundowners as swans and little boats glide by. Grab one of the bay window tables at the riverside brasserie 1665, before ending the night at the popular Coppernose brasserie and bar. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 8979 9988; mitrehamptoncourt.com
OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST SUSSEX
You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden. If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, jacuzzi, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck, guest lounge and café. As for the six knockout first-floor bedrooms – they pack a thoroughly modern punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs. Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 77
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THE PHEASANT INN SHEFFORD WOODLANDS, BERKSHIRE
Looking for a stylish yet cosy escape that’s easy to reach from town? Here it is. Opened five years ago by charming young Jack Greenall, The Pheasant, near Hungerford, ticks all boxes. Though just moments from the M4, the old drovers’ inn stands alone and feels properly rural, with uninterrupted views across the Berkshire Downs. Inside, thanks to the spot-on taste of Jack and interior designer Flora Soames, it’s smart and sophisticated yet also intimate and warm in its racing green and red (the inn is much frequented by trainers and jockeys) with plenty of quiet, comfy corners despite the constant buzz in the recently extended restaurant and at the bar. Upstairs, there are 14 immaculate, spoiling, incredibly good value bedrooms, full of thoughtful extras (three are new this year, decorated by up-and-coming interior designer Isabella Worsley who also did the restaurant). As for chef Andy Watts’ 20-mile menu, it’s spot on too: Scotch eggs like you’ve never tasted before, chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef to share and fabulous puddings. The gorgeous private dining room, designed by Octavia Dickinson, is popular with shooting parties. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1488 648284; thepheasant-inn.co.uk
THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT
Every Pig hotel in this magnificent litter has its very own personality. Bridge Place on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury has a rock ’n’ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 29-bedroom, Grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house is set in the luscious Nailbourne valley that’s part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, while also containing a colourful recent past. The likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ CEO Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for effortless, laidback chic. As with every other Pig, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just 56 minutes by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com 78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE
You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb inn in the charming village Yattendon. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with deep sofas and a huge open fire. In summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Nick MacGregor’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous new glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden. Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a threetiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. After a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head than in one of the ten light, airy bedrooms? A king-sized bed beckons, with luxury linens and gorgeous throws. The newly refurbished bathrooms are also stocked with beautiful Bramley products for that long soak. Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk
THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX
The Spread Eagle elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary, spoiling treats. In the fine, old-fashioned, oak-beamed dining room, earthenware basins dangle from the ceiling as a tangible reminder that here puddings are still presented to guests every Christmas using a prized recipe that dates back decades, just as tradition dictates. Yet the same coaching inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 100 different brands and 12 different tonics, plus garnishes from the garden. While the hotel’s main building dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of Midhurst’s historic market town, you will also find an impressive spa and indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. Plus, there’s a lovely lounge bar and conservatory where you can drink and dine, a terrace for relaxing and reading the papers, and bedrooms that are both chic and traditional, with crisp bathrooms. One sought-after room, the Queen Suite, has its own wig closet, while another has panelled walls hiding a secret passage reputedly used by fleeing smugglers. Here, past and present live perfectly in-sync. Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 79
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Ashley Chaplin, South Bank Bubbles, London. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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Past, present and future jostle cheek by jowl in London, the beating heart of Britain. With some of the best restaurants, shops and cultural institutions in the world, it’s a memorable stay whatever you do
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TAKE IN THE VIEW Explore urban greenery among the city streets, says Daniella Saunders
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Leadenhall Market
Dating back to the 14th century, Leadenhall Market is one of the most delightful places to drink, dine and explore with its grand arches and Victorian design. Whereas the market boasts a rich history, its boutique stores and restaurants are more contemporary; shop a range of luxury brands, tempt your tastebuds, and raise a glass at Brokers Wine Bar, with views overlooking the market. leadenhallmarket.co.uk
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Chelsea Physic Garden
London’s oldest botanic garden, this inner-city idyll was founded in 1673 with the purpose of studying medicinal plants. Today, the garden remains a place of horticultural curiosity and charm. There is much to discover, from the Victorian glasshouses to the Grade II-listed Pond Rockery and the garden of edible, useful and medicinal plants. chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk
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Little Venice
One of London’s most charming districts, where the Grand Union Canal and Regent’s Canal meet, Little Venice is famed for its waterside restaurants and prepossessing Regency town houses. Enjoy a scenic river cruise, relax in the Rembrandt Gardens and be sure to stop by Waterside Café, ‘London’s original floating café’, an ideal spot to soak up the sights. canalrivertrust.org.uk
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The Hill Garden and Pergola
The Hill Garden and Pergola is one of Hampstead Heath’s hidden gems. Originally an impressive manor house commissioned by industrialist William Lever, 1st Viscount Leverhulme, in 1905, the dilapidated building is now beautifully overrun with wisteria, vines and other types of greenery. An otherworldly part of London, the garden is an ideal place to unwind and escape the bustle of the city. cityoflondon.gov.uk One of London’s most prepossessing, secluded streets, the cobblestoned Kynance Mews in South Kensington was originally built as stabling and is now one of London’s most coveted places to live. Its Grade II-listed arched entrance was built by architect Thomas Cundy III in the 19th century. Visit in the autumn when the arches are adorned with beautiful red foliage.
PHOTOS: GETTY; SIMON RAE
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Kynance Mews
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Peggy Porschen Parlour
It’s not a London landmark or site of historic importance, but boy is the Peggy Porschen Parlour a beautiful spot – and a popular one at that. With its pretty pink façade (which transforms with the seasons) and saccharine interior, the flagship Chelsea parlour is the perfect pit stop for a slice of cake – and a picture, of course. peggyporschen.com
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Old Royal Naval College
The Old Royal Naval College is a spectacular estate spanning centuries’ worth of history. Formerly Greenwich Palace (and birthplace of King Henry VIII), the site became a Royal Hospital in 1694, and then a Royal Naval College in 1873. Today, it’s open for all to explore, from the Victorian skittle alley to the extraordinary, Italianate ‘Painted Hall’. ornc.org
Pembroke Lodge
Beloved by locals and visitors for its bluebell woods and herds of deer, 2,500-acre Richmond Park has a rich royal history – kings have hunted here since Edward I’s reign. Now a national nature reserve, it’s full of ancient trees, historic buildings and vast amounts of wildlife. Be sure to stop by Pembroke Lodge for post-walk refreshments in the mansion’s Georgian Tea Rooms. royalparks.org.uk
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St Paul’s Cathedral
With its pre-eminent dome and English Baroque style, St Paul’s Cathedral is instantly recognisable part of the city skyline – it was the tallest building in London until 1963, in fact. Inside, the centuries-old Anglican cathedral is just as spectacular with a number of important and historic highlights, from the Duke of Wellington monument to The Whispering Gallery (259 steps up) which circles the dome’s interior. stpauls.co.uk
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Saint Dunstan in the East
A former parish church bombed in WWII, Saint Dunstan in the East has been transformed into a flourishing garden, in which plants and vines sweep the ruins. This small pocket of greenery is hidden between London Bridge and the Tower of London – a beautiful, ethereal escape at the heart of the city. cityoflondon.gov.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY; SIMON RAE
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA
Discreet on the outside, luxurious within, 11 Cadogan Gardens, a member of Relais & Châteaux, is formed of four interconnected Victorian townhouses and was built by Lord Chelsea in the late 19th century. With its fabulous location it’s no wonder the hotel became vastly popular as a home for travelling Victorian aristocrats, politicians and bon viveurs. Today, its 56 bedrooms and suites are individually decorated, with no two alike. This year marks the opening of The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens, a six-storey townhouse with a completely new style of self-catering accommodation, offering one, two and three bedroom residences. Separated from the hotel by a private garden square, much of the design inspiration has come from the property’s location and the neighbouring Chelsea Flower Show, with botanical wallpapers and themed Taschen books throughout. Apartment residents can enjoy late night cocktails at the sophisticated Chelsea Bar or Hans’ Bar & Grill’s all-day seasonal menu, rooted in British produce. After dining, step out onto Pavilion Road, a wonderful mews street lined with artisan food stores, and luxury boutiques. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com
ARTIST RESIDENCE PIMLICO
The third hotel from the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie Salisbury – following their Artist Residences in Brighton (p70) and Penzance (p36) – this was once just a down-at-heel local boozer. Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. Over three elegant floors it has ten comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds. There’s a moody and glamorous bar tucked away in the basement that comes alive at night, serving drinks inspired by cult movies: try the Kill Bill, which comes with a black vanilla sugar stripe, or The Departed, a cocktail so lethal it’s limited to two per person. And taking centre stage is the Clubhouse, a welcoming social space by day, serving brunch, coldpressed juices and Extract Coffee, which transforms into a modern restaurant at night. Even better, a separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check-in at the bar. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 3019 8610; artistresidence.co.uk 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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LONDON
THE ATHENAEUM MAYFAIR
A proudly independent five-star hotel in the heart of prestigious Mayfair, The Athenaeum exudes luxury with a nod to its glamorous Art Deco roots (it began in 1850 as the elegant mansion of Henry Pelham-Clinton, sixth Duke of Newcastle, and was restyled in the 1930s). With the designer fashion boutiques of Bond Street and Buckingham Palace all just a stroll away, this is an enviable location to call home – and the perfect base to explore the capital’s best-loved landmarks. Rooms and suites come with all of life’s luxuries and views over Green Park or the characterful surrounding streets. Guests can also choose to stay at the Residences – contemporary serviced apartments that exude English charm set in the Victorian townhouses next to the hotel. The restaurant, 116 at The Athenaeum, is a lovely informal setting for breakfast, lunch, dinner and as well as an award-winning afternoon tea. Elsewhere, you’ll find the bar, the spa, a 24-hour gym and the tenth-floor residents’ lounge, The View, which boasts panoramic views of the London skyline. Doubles from £305 +44 (0)20 7499 3464; athenaeumhotel.com
BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS
As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (p89 and p91) it was inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens in a grand style. The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books and fine paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel. Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with antique carved beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period fittings. Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. Your most difficult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our choice is the Tapestry Room, with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits (plus a cocktail recipe book) and French doors that open onto a quiet courtyard. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 85
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR
Overlooking a quiet garden square in the heart of Mayfair, The Beaumont has embodied the spirit of grand 1920s hotels – albeit on a far more intimate scale – since it opened in 2014. Now, the ground floor has had a gentle refresh. A classy joint (with chequerboard lobby floor, early 20th-century paintings and gleaming antiques), subtle changes include the redesigned Magritte Bar; a new all-day dining and afternoon tea lounge; and for the first time, a terrace for light al-fresco suppers among lush greenery. The striking muralled Colony Grill Room has kept its clubby atmosphere with red leather banquettes where guests can feast on timeless transatlantic classics. The 50 art deco-themed rooms and 22 suites are handsome, sensible and supremely comfortable: the showstopper is Antony Gormley’s ROOM, a three-storey architectural extension and public artwork on the outside, an extraordinary onebedroom suite of dark fumed oak within. Try the added luxury of the hamam and spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at London’s RAC Club and the original New York YMCA. Doubles from £470 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com
BROWN’S HOTEL
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PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
PHOTOS: ANTONY WELLER
MAYFAIR
Archetypally British, with a hint of the unexpected, Brown’s was founded by Lord Byron’s butler in 1837 as London’s very first hotel. In the heart of Mayfair, this five-star delight has all the history and gravitas but none of the pomp or flashiness of some of its rivals. The rooms and suites have been curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, Sir Rocco Forte, each paying tribute to the hotel’s illustrious heritage and charm. The Kipling Suite honours Rudyard Kipling, who famously penned The Jungle Book while staying here. In the award-winning Drawing Room (where Queen Victoria became an early fan of Brown’s afternoon tea) original panelling sits easily with modern art from neighbouring Mayfair galleries. The famous Donovan Bar, in honour of celebrated photographer Terence Donovan, features a 1960s-inspired cocktail menu created exclusively by ‘Maestro’ Salvatore Calabrese, while Charlie’s at Brown’s offers a unique dining menu of seasonal dishes, headed up by head chef Adam Byatt of Michelin-starred Trinity. There’s even a luxurious subterranean spa offering a range of indulgent Irene Forte products. Doubles from £510 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com
LONDON
THE CADOGAN CHELSEA
A stand out on Sloane Street, The Cadogan’s sleek and glamorous good looks may recall well-heeled neighbouring Knightsbridge, but its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is in here too. There’s bold checked uniforms that reference Mary Quant, books and author talks curated by beloved Chelsea bookshop John Sandoe, specially commissioned art from young artists, and recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the restaurant. This is the domain of celebrated chef Adam Handling, who presides over a mouth-watering menu of modern yet imaginative British cuisine. The Cadogan first opened in 1887, but a recent makeover means bedrooms and suites are stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables that double as desks and statement paintings from female British artists. They took their inspiration from the private gardens opposite – and so can you, for guests get keys, a wonderful perk. Doubles from £530 +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com
CORINTHIA LONDON
PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
PHOTOS: ANTONY WELLER
WESTMINSTER
A luxury hotel for the 21st century, with the river and central London at its door. It doesn’t matter which entrance you use – Northumberland Avenue or Whitehall Place – you’ll be struck by the wow-factor elegance of the Corinthia’s Crystal Moon Lounge, lit by a dramatic Baccarat chandelier and a must for afternoon tea. Originally built in the 1880s as the Metropole Hotel and later home to government departments, it opened in its present incarnation in 2011 after a super-lavish refit. Now there’s plenty to impress: modern British cuisine at The Northall, with its own magnificent bar; Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s first London venture, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, with a menu of classic dishes; al fresco drinking and dining in The Garden. Corinthia London also boasts some of the city’s most spacious hotel bedrooms (there are 283 sumptuous rooms, suites and penthouses), as well as a multi awardwinning spa covering four entire floors. There is the FitSPace gym, sleep pods, an ampitheatre sauna, steam rooms and a vitality pool. Doubles from £630 +44 (0)20 7930 8181; corinthia.com/london 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 87
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE GORING BELGRAVIA
Opened in 1910 and still in the same family, The Goring is gloriously British. But although it’s a grand, dignified institution, it never takes itself too seriously, possessing what so many smart hotels lack: a sense of humour. Where else does Noël Coward sing Mad Dogs and Englishmen while your call is being connected? Its rooms are world-renowned as some of the most luxurious in the city, pairing great comfort with undeniable wowfactor glamour. The Royal Suite’s master bedroom walls are lined with the same silk that graced the first class dining room of RMS Titanic in 1912, while the silk in the bathroom is a match for that adorning the Throne Room at Buckingham Palace. Its huge private garden – larger than Wimbledon’s Centre Court – is The Goring’s secret glory. An exquisite floral oasis, over which many of the rooms and suites look out, it’s a soothing haven amid London’s hubbub, perfect for a glass of wine or a bite to eat, while the Michelin-starred Dining Room restaurant remains a favourite address for the finest fine dining. Head to the elegant Goring Cocktail Bar for an after-dinner digestif, accompanied by the live pianist. Doubles from £485 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com
THE HARI BELGRAVIA
Walking through the leafy streets of Belgravia, one of London’s smartest neighbourhoods, there’s one spot that can’t help but catch the eye. The Hari’s striking façade, navy and glass, is adorned with cascading foliage and lush topiary, and is a taste of the peaceful sanctuary visitors will experience when they enter its doors. Laidback luxury permeates this stylish boutique retreat, with 85 designer bedrooms,14 suites, all decidedly chic with plush velvet upholstery, sleek marble bathrooms and impressive contemporary art from the likes of Tracey Emin and Mario Testino. Enveloped in crawling ivy, the Garden Terrace is a hidden gem – perfect for a delicious lazy lunch al fresco or afternoon aperitif, and with its retractable roof and cosy heaters, it’s the ideal spot come rain or shine, ready for any English weather. Il Pampero restaurant’s Italianinspired menu serves up delectable homemade pasta dishes. Try the cacio e pepe for a slice of authentic Italian simplicity. All this just a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, and the Royal Albert Hall, as well as the city’s most prestigious shopping districts. A real sanctuary in bustling central London. Doubles from £320 +44 (0)20 7858 0100; thehari.com 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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LONDON
HAZLITT’S SOHO
Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart. The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and prints, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings in the bathrooms. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (p85 and p91), they are delightfully different from other London hotels. And don’t forget to greet Sir Godfrey, the hotel’s resident cat, who still hasn’t checked out after nine years. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com
LIME TREE HOTEL BELGRAVIA
It’s rare to find an affordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse, which is spread across two Grade II-listed townhouses, from Charlotte’s parents more than a decade ago. After a major six month refurbishment last year, this delightful bolthole has 28 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms each with pretty geometric patterned cushions and a Roberts Radio, and Bramley goodies in the bathroom. There’s also a new cosy guest lounge and The Buttery, a caféstyle restaurant (open to the public) full of chatter where friendly staff serve up delicious breakfasts and an all-day menu of light lunches, homemade cakes and savoury treats. When the weather allows, relaxing outside in the peaceful walled garden feels like having discovered a magical secret oasis, a whole world away from the heady bustle of nearby Sloane Square. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 89
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE MAYFAIR
Spread across 15 Grade II-listed Georgian houses in London’s historic Mayfair, this playful yet sophisticated spot draws on its rich history and literary associations to evoke an ‘Oscar Wilde meets Alice in Wonderland’ aesthetic. The sister property to countryside stalwarts Cliveden and Chewton Glen, the Townhouse has the feel of a home away from home – a discreet residency for those in the know. At its heart, the colourful Dandy Bar has already become a hot spot for Mayfair’s chic crowd, serving a dazzling array of cocktails and an impressive all-day menu with scrumptious small plate classics like tuna tartare, and truffle and parmesan arancini, overseen by Michelin-starred chef, Adam Simmonds. Rooms and suites all showcase individual touches. There are 172 to choose from, though you wouldn’t know it, tucked into different corners of the connecting townhouses as they are. From cosy cabin rooms designed for one to Garden Suites that open onto a walled courtyard garden, there is something for everyone at this future classic. Doubles from £312 +44 (0)20 8138 3400; themayfairtownhouse.com
ONE ALDWYCH COVENT GARDEN
As London’s cultured, independent hotel, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned in bustling Covent Garden and is renowned for its iconic heritage building, towering flowers and exceptional art collection. The brilliant Lobby Bar is popular with locals and travellers alike, as are the two exquisite restaurants: pioneering dairy and gluten-free Indigo, and Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, the London home of superstar Spanish chef Eneko Atxa and his modern Basque dishes. Newly refurbished interiors are sophisticated and contemporary, including quiet, comfortable suites and bedrooms in calm pastel hues. Expect contemporary curves, Art Deco details, original British craftsmanship and luxurious touches such as rainforest showers, Bang & Olufsen speakers and Mitchell & Peach bathroom products. For wellbeing, guests can head to the health club, a tranquil sanctuary that has a 24-hour gym, an 18-metre chlorine-free pool, relaxing sauna and steam room, plus a menu of revitalising Oskia and Natura Bissé spa treatments. Meanwhile, afternoon tea is a magical affair, inspired by Roald Dahl’s Charlie & the Chocolate Factory. Doubles from £525 +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com 90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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LONDON
THE RITZ LONDON PICCADILLY
One of the most iconic hotels in the world, with an enviable location on London’s Piccadilly overlooking the Royal Green Park. Opened in 1906 by hotelier César Ritz, The Ritz quickly became a favourite home-fromhome for Hollywood stars and royalty alike. It was also the first hotel to be awarded a Royal Warrant in 2002. Ideal for families and couples alike, guests today can choose between lavishly decorated Louis XVI-style rooms and suites, including The Royal Suite, in the adjoining 18th-century William Kent House. In the exquisite Michelinstarred Ritz Restaurant, with its sparkling chandeliers and marble columns, Executive Chef John Williams MBE uses the finest seasonal ingredients throughout the menus. His famed signature dishes include dishes such as Cornish turbot, beef wellington and langoustine à la Nage. Guests may also enjoy the legendary afternoon tea in the Palm Court complete with a resident pianist (The Ritz even has a certified tea master), dine al fresco in the gorgeous Italian Garden or spend the evening sipping cocktails in the intimate Art Deco Rivoli Bar. Doubles from £505 +44 (0)20 7493 8181; theritzlondon.com
THE ROOKERY CLERKENWELL
Those in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books. In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-do-wells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky floors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only moments away from St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tate Modern. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 91
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN
Since its opening in 2013, Rosewood London has risen effortlessly to the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels, combining English heritage with contemporary sophistication. The Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has been sensitively renovated, with the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought iron-gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard, with its majestic stone facades while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance, the jewel box Mirror Room restaurant and 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites. Martin Brudnizki designed both the Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with innovative cuisine and a trendy gin bar – and the wildly popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with a collection of paintings by satirist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s head chef Calum Franklin’s Pie Room, dedicated to one of Britain’s most iconic dishes. Every suite comes with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless. Doubles from £420 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com
ST. PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL KING’S CROSS
This Gothic masterpiece has been part of the London landscape since the 1870s when it was designed by prolific architect George Gilbert Scott for the Midland Railway. In the 20thcentury it declined before being spectacularly restored and re-opening with great fanfare a decade ago. Today, guests can choose between suites in the heritage Chambers Wing (these come with Eurostar VIP service and access to the Chambers Club) or the contemporary luxury of the Barlow Wing. The spa, which is housed in the original underground kitchens, is a Victorian inspired, peacock-themed haven of tranquility with a pool, steam room and sauna (book in for one of the ‘Journey’ treatments inspired by destinations including Indonesia, Africa and an English garden). Restaurants range from modern British fare at the Booking Office in the former ticket hall to the casual Mi+Me (gourmet burgers, milkshakes) and The Hansom Bar for cocktails and afternoon tea. Right on the doorstep is buzzing Coal Drops Yard and Granary Square with its boutique shops and restaurants, while a 10-minute tube ride will whisk you into Soho. Doubles from £289 +44 (0)20 7841 3540; stpancraslondon.com 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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LONDON
STRAND PALACE THE STRAND
Since 1909, Strand Palace has been welcoming guests to its unbeatable location on the famous thoroughfare of the Strand. Just minutes from Covent Garden and the River Thames, it is perfectly placed for those who are eager to explore the heart of the capital. The hotel has recently completed a two-year, multi-million-pound refurbishment with modern Art Decoinspired design that channels the spirit of the hotel’s earlier 1920s heyday. In addition to refreshing all 785 bedrooms, the brand new restaurant and bar, Haxells, is the ideal spot to enjoy a bite to eat before seeing a West End show. With 240 covers, the all-day restaurant serves modern British fare at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Plus there is a private dining room and a new, quintessentially English afternoon tearoom, decorated in rich Bordeaux red, where scones, finger sandwiches and delightful cakes are served alongside special loose leaf tea varieties. Joe Allan, a New York-style brasserie known as the West End’s Canteen for its popularity with actors, is also located on the ground floor of the hotel. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)20 7379 4737; strandpalacehotel.co.uk
THE TRAFALGAR ST. JAMES TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, The Trafalgar St. James is brilliantly positioned on the edge of St James Park and Trafalgar Square, and just moments from Soho, Mayfair and the West End. This luxury hotel blends innovative bold design and thoughtful service with excellent dining and nightlife – a true sanctuary to work rest and play for locals and international visitors alike. Guests can choose from three signature suites and 128 spacious guest rooms, all of which come with quintessentially British Molton Brown products in the bathrooms. Downstairs, Rockwell is a ‘Darwin-meetsDali’ restaurant that serves as a surreal haven thanks to leather banquette booths, botanical textiles, plants and the elegant long bar. But it’s The Rooftop on the seventh floor that’s the jewel in this hotel’s crown. From the canopy-covered al fresco seating and glass-walled interior, the sensational city skyline is the backdrop for craft beers and Asian fusion dining (think delicious dishes such as sashimi, steamed buns and black cod). The perfect spot for unrivalled views, especially at sunset. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)20 7870 2900; trafalgarstjames.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 93
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE COTSWOLDS
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Come for the chocolate box cottages and pastoral bliss; stay for the glorious local produce, thoughtful sustainable restaurants and majestic ruins in this most magical of regions
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Sunrise over the Stroud Valley in the Cotswolds
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TAKE IN THE VIEW Lovely lavender, pretty picnic spots and history hits. By Ellie Smith
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Painswick Rococo Garden
Britain’s sole surviving rococo garden can be found in Painswick, a town in Gloucestershire often billed as ‘The Queen of the Cotswolds’ thanks to its regal splendour. Designed as a pleasure garden for Benjamin Hyett and his guests back in the 1740s, the valley is famous for its winter snowdrop display – though it’s stunning year-round, with flamboyant garden buildings and pictureperfect vistas galore. rococogarden.org.uk
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Stanway House
The jewel of this Jacobean manor house in Cheltenham is its single-jet 300ft fountain, the highest in Britain. It towers above a baroque-style water garden, which was recently restored and now features a canal alongside a number of ponds. Enjoy teas, cold drinks and ice cream in the grounds, and take a tour of the house, with its stunning period detail. stanwayfountain.co.uk
Perched on a hillside overlooking the Golden Valley sits Miserden, a 17th-century estate with 850-acres of woodland and a beautifully unspoilt garden. Long leafy borders filled with roses, dahlias and herbaceous plants lead down to the house – which is private, but serves as a pretty backdrop – alongside a striking sycamore tree, plus a rill with a fountain. miserden.org
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Laurie Lee Wildlife Way
Laurie Lee celebrates the beautiful Slad Valley, where he grew up, in his much-loved book Cider with Rosie. Follow in his footsteps by embarking on the Laurie Lee walking trail, a five-mile circular route that meanders along small rivers and woodlands containing a rich variety of wildlife. Reward your hard work with something cold and refreshing at the Woolpack Inn, Laurie’s local. thewoolpackslad.com
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St Edward’s Church
Flanked by two gnarled, ancient yew trees, the door to St Edward’s Church in Stow-onthe-Wold looks like it could transport you to a mythical realm. Many hypothesise that it inspired Tolkien’s Doors of Durin; true or not, the Grade I-listed building has acquired notable architectural features over the centuries, some dating back to Norman times.
PHOTOS: JOAB SMITH; ENGLISH HERITAGE; GETTY
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The Garden at Miserden
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THE COTSWOLDS
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The Chipping Steps
The Cotswolds certainly aren’t short of pretty cobbled streets, but the Chipping Steps are particularly special. Set on a hillside in Tetbury and lined with weavers’ cottages, this steep lane dates back to medieval times. While you’re in town, visit the 17th-century, ochre-hued Market House, and grab a coffee from the cafe in Veloton, which is also a bike shop. veloton.co.uk
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The Slaughters
Swerve the crowds at Bourton-on-theWater and head to the villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter instead. Don’t be put off by the name: it comes from the Old English ‘slohtre’, which means ‘muddy place’ – though these days the villages are immaculate. Take a stroll down the River Eye, which flows through the honeycoloured stone cottages, connecting the two.
Cotswold Lavender
Early- to mid-July is the best time to visit Cotswold Lavender, a third-generation family farm in Snowshill boasting 53 acres of vibrant lavender fields. There’s enough room to walk through the rows of plants without damaging them – a feast for all the senses, with an unmistakable lavender scent wafting through the air and bees buzzing amid the purple mass. cotswoldlavender.co.uk
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Westonbirt, The National Arboretum
Explore over 2,500 different tree species from all over the world at Westonbirt. Not only is it an idyllic walking spot, the arboretum acts as a sanctuary for threatened tree species and facilitates important conservation research in cultivars like Japanese maple. Stroll along the treetop walkway before heading to the on-site café for lunch. forestryengland.uk
PHOTOS: JOAB SMITH; ENGLISH HERITAGE; GETTY
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Hailes Abbey
A majestic ruin resting on the Cotswold Way footpath, Hailes Abbey is a must, not just for its idyllic picnicking spots but also its fascinating history. The abbey dates back to the 12th century, and was home to a group of Cistercian monks for many years – it’s even mentioned in The Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer. english-heritage.org.uk 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE BELL INN LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE
Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th-century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. They reopened The Bell – a much-loved local in a picturesque village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks. ‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren. It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a no-nonsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood-fired fish, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and flagstoned room. The eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground floor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms. You’ll be hard pushed to find a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn and arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and fishing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting. Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllangford.com
THE DOUBLE RED DUKE CLANFIELD, COTSWOLDS
This honey-hued, wisteria-clad ancient coaching inn close to Oxford is the latest addition to Sam and Georgie Pearman’s Country Creatures collection of rural restaurants and inns (it also includes The Swan in Ascott-under-Wychwood, p102, and The Chequers in Churchill). Guests can hunker down in one of the cosy sitting rooms for drinks before heading through to the open-plan bar and garden room for – the biggest draw – the food. Richard Turner and Richard Sandiford (of Hawksmoor and Pitt Cue Co fame) are experts in live-fire cooking: think BBQ charred monkfish, crispy wood roast pork belly ribs, and chocolate peanut butter tart for dessert. Upstairs, comfortable rooms (the biggest sleep a family of four) with original wooden beams shine a spotlight on British artisans. Upholstered furniture is designed by George Smith, fabrics are from Fermoie and wallpaper is by Rapture and Wright. There is also a shepherd’s hut in the herb garden for relaxing massages using all-natural, botanical 100 Acres products. The garden room for up to 40 and a 12-seater feasting room can both be hired for parties. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1367 810222; countrycreatures.com 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE COTSWOLDS
ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored, sumptuous Cotswold-stone manor, parts of which date back to the 15th century. In the 1830s it was home to the Earl of Ellenborough, former governor general of India - the influence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery. Nina Campbell has reinvented the interior, with 61 classically English bedrooms furnished with antiques, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and roll top baths. There’s an outdoor pool which is heated all year around, and an intimate spa, as well as a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. Food is contemporary, serving British classics with a twist. New al fresco options for this year include quirky dining carriages, and the stylish Cedar Pavilion pop up tent, alongside its sunny patios with lawn and racecourse views. Guests can enjoy a cocktail from the converted horse box trailer bar while watching the sunset across the racecourse. Where better to stay during race meetings? Doubles from £239 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com
FELDON VALLEY LOWER BRAILES, OXFORDSHIRE
There has been a par 71, 18-hole golf course at Feldon Valley for more than two decades, but it was only in 2019 that accommodation was added to create a tranquil Cotswolds retreat. Positioned parallel to the golf course, Feldon Valley’s 25 contemporary rooms are spread across four modern wood and glass lodges, as well as the main building, all linked by a raised boardwalk. Some rooms come with a private veranda; others have floor-to-ceiling windows facing the woods and golf course beyond (families and larger groups can book an entire lodge). The spacious lounge area has glass doors that open onto a welcoming terrace with firepits and valley vistas – perfect for a leisurely leaf through the papers or a peaceful nightcap. You can also enjoy holistic therapy treatments in the cosy Shepherd’s Hut. The Kitchen at Feldon Valley is the onsite restaurant that provides a tempting bar menu from 11am each day and à la carte dining in the evening with dishes inspired by the region and its wonderful local suppliers. The balconies of the bar and restaurant provide a stunning setting to watch the sun go down, sipping on a signature cocktail of your choice Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1608 685633; feldonvalley.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 99
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE KINGHAM PLOUGH KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE
The Kingham Plough has always been far more than a traditional gastro-pub. Since it was first opened by chef Emily Watkins in 2007, foodies have flocked here for her creative interpretation of bygone British dishes, often based on old Cotswold recipes. Now, new owners Matt and Kate Beamish (who have worked with the likes of Raymond Blanc, Jamie Oliver and Fergus Henderson) have picked up the mantle. The wonderful kitchen team champion artisanal and seasonal ingredients in their modern British menu with a Mediterranean twist, making everything in-house except for the sourdough loaves, which are freshly baked by Marks Cotswold Bakery. Expect favourite pub classics – fish and chips, ploughman’s boards, cheeseburgers – alongside refined dishes such as Tamworth pork ribeye and pea and mint tortellini. Behind the bar, there are craft ales and local beers by Hook Norton Brewery and upstairs you’ll find six country-chic bedrooms kitted out with vintage furniture, soft mohair blankets on the beds and beautiful bathrooms. Eat well, sleep well. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1608 658327; thekinghamplough.co.uk
THE LYGON ARMS BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE
Visit a hotel that has been coloured by the characters of history. At The Lygon Arms you can eat in the suite (now a private dining room) that Oliver Cromwell stayed in the night before the Battle of Worcester in 1651, and whose former guests include Edward VII, Elizabeth Taylor and Prince Philip. Offering a glorious overview of the Cotswolds, The Lygon Arms in the centre of Broadway is the ideal destination from which to discover one of the most beloved regions in the country. Explore the Cotswold Way, a walk that will reward you with countryside views, picture-perfect villages and pre-historic landmarks. Featuring a thriving foodie scene, leading boutique shops, family attractions, filming locations, and a historic and authentic heritage, here you can tailor the perfect day out. The Lygon’s 86 bedrooms are beautifully decorated by Anita Rosato, and don’t forget to visit its indulgent spa. Most impressive of all is the relaxed and informal dining space at The Lygon Bar and Grill, where carefully crafted menus use the finest locally sourced ingredients. Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE COTSWOLDS
NO 38 THE PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Part of the brilliant Lucky Onion Group that was started by Julian and Jade Dunkerton (see No 131, below, and the Wheatsheaf Inn, p103), this fine Georgian house, tucked away in the centre of Regency Cheltenham overlooking leafy Pittville Park, combines the independence of a B&B with the luxury of a hotel. Whether you take just a room or the entire house, you’ll feel completely at ease here – and even your favourite canine companion can join you, too, for an extra element of home-from-home comfort. Choose between Excellent, Very Good and Cosy rooms, all decorated in exceedingly good taste: everything is sensual and textured, from plump, velvet-padded headboards and mohair throws to oversized lamps and vast log baskets. Bathrooms are heaven, with underfloor heating and a mix of freestanding zinc baths and double showers. Just a stone’s throw from Cheltenham Racecourse, sister hotel No 131, with its fabulous restaurant and latenight cocktail bar, is also conveniently a short walk away. What more could you need for a decadent Cotswolds escape? Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1242 822929; no38thepark.com
NO 131 CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
This is the hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, fashionable on the inside. With hangouts and hideaways aplenty, its landscaped sun terraces with outdoor bars and al fresco dining make for relaxed daytime get-togethers. There are 36 fabulous bedrooms, including three family suites, which are adorable cocoons with divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold fabrics, original artwork from some of the UK’s biggest creative names and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. The elegance of the restaurant and its decadent food is complemented by the relaxed buzz of the downstairs late-night bar and Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with its resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefully sourced food, menus range from indulgent afternoon teas and decadent suppers to hearty Sunday lunches, and there’s even a coffee menu, including No 131’s own unique house blend. Here you’ll find home-from-home comfort in the beating cultural heart of the Cotswolds. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 101
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE SWAN ASCOTT-UNDERWYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE
This 16th-century timbered inn with inglenook fireplaces, reclaimed wooden floors and a large central bar, re-opened in 2019 as part of Sam and Georgie Pearman’s Country Creatures collection (the newest addition to the group is The Double Red Duke, p98). You’ll find eight dashingly pretty bedrooms and a family cottage, all balancing comfort and luxury in equal measure, with antique and modern art pieces, natural linens, velvets and printed fabrics, and 100 Acres Apothecary products in the bathrooms. In the charming dining room, exposed timber, Cotswold stone, striking Lewis & Wood wallpaper and art by Keith Tyson create an intimate setting, while the garden terrace has firepits and painted wooden planters. Expect the best of British and European produce from head chef Dan Smith. Tuck into barbecued native prawns with Chipping Norton ’nduja and garlic butter, followed by lamb rump from butcher Walter Rose, and then a selection of local cheeses. Breakfast is a delight, with carve-yourself ham, cheese, fresh loaves and fruit compotes laid out on the central bar to help yourself to. Doubles from £100 + 44 (0)1993 832332; countrycreatures.com
THORNBURY CASTLE THORNBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Thornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed here and Princess Mary, later Mary I, lived here. After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture, the ornate carved ceilings and tapestry wall-hangings. Spiral staircases lead to 26 unique, romantic bed chambers, many with coronet or four-poster beds. Their baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well heated with opulent bathrooms. The magnificent Tudor walled gardens have been restored to their full glory and comprise formal areas and a living statue of Henry VIII, along with a kitchen garden, Tudor herb garden, wildflower meadow and heritage orchard within the castle grounds. Thornbury’s fine dining options include its award-winning restaurant and the atmospheric Tudor Hall and Baron’s Sitting Room which are the perfect setting for private dining. Best of all, it’s an authentic, thundering castle. Doubles from £229 +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk 102 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE COTSWOLDS
THE WHEATSHEAF INN NORTHLEACH, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
This beautifully decorated former coaching inn serves as both a hub for the local community and a welcome 17th-century watering hole for those exploring the beautiful Cotswolds. It combines an informal, welcoming atmosphere with all the attributes of a fully fledged hotel, including a relaxing sitting room, perfectly manicured courtyard and outdoor dining space. Locals crowd into the casual country bar for drinks and light meals, or dine under the beady eyes of the doughty Wills tobacco family, whose early 20th-century portraits decorate one wall of the restaurant, gleaming with polished wood (the menu includes dishes such as grilled lemon sole and Tamworth pork chops). The 14 bedrooms, decorated in sleek style, are elegantly equipped with deeply comfy Hypnos beds, Egyptian cotton linens and original artwork. What’s more, the locally sourced, simple, rustic food doesn’t miss a beat. Dine al fresco in the landscaped gardens, with its outdoor bar and pizza oven. Rambling, centuries-old inns can be hard to modernise, but the Wheatsheaf Inn is a triumph. Plus, as with the best establishments, dogs are welcome, too. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1451 860244; cotswoldswheatsheaf.com
WOOLLEY GRANGE BRADFORD ON AVON, WILTSHIRE
The homely, relaxed atmosphere of this Jacobean manor house, the original Luxury Family Hotel, puts you immediately at ease. Its wood-panelled interior, open fires and antique furnishings are impressive but not pretentious, and it’s unmatched for making children and dogs welcome. The 14-acre garden is one big adventure playground, with swings, play houses and dipping pond. There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, the complimentary Woolley Bears Den children’s club and the Hen House for older kids. Adult treats include picnics in the grounds, a luxurious Elemis spa, roaring log fires and a terrace for champagne on summer evenings. The bedrooms are both family friendly and full of character. For parents with younger children, take advantage of the baby listening service, don your glad rags and head for a superb dinner, prepared by award-winning chef Dean Westcar, using fresh produce from the kitchen garden and the best local suppliers. When you do venture out, Bradford on Avon is a true Cotswold artisan town, full of quaint cottages, cafes and interesting hidden nooks. Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1225 864705; woolleygrangehotel.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 103
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
MID COUNTRY
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Often overlooked, the heart of Britain offers some real hidden gems. Uncover luscious valleys and thundering waterfalls, miles of winding footpaths and swathes of forgotten beaches away from the crowds
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Lurcher dog at Huttoft beach in Lincolnshire at low tide
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TAKE IN THE VIEW
From rugged peaks to bluebell woods, explore these scenic spots, says Emma Love
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Water Rail Way
Following the route of the old Lincoln to Boston railway line, the 15.5-mile Water Rail Way weaves along pretty fenland landscape and the River Witham. Look out for the sculpture trail, featuring artworks inspired by the region such as Sally Matthews’ lifesize Lincolnshire Red cattle and a pair of viewing platforms over the water by Belgian architects Robbrecht en Daem. visitlincoln.com This unspoilt and usually uncrowded beach on the north-east Lincolnshire coast is a designated nature reserve – and no wonder. A vast landscape of salt marshes, wild grassy sand dunes (they are wider to the north) and mudflats that stretches for five miles, Theddlethorpe is a gorgeous spot for an afternoon stroll, guaranteed to blow the cobwebs away. lincstrust.org.uk
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The Elizabethan Garden
Originally created by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, for a visit by Queen Elizabeth I (whom he hoped to marry), the Elizabethan Garden at Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire was reconstructed 12 years ago. You’ll find intricatelycarved arbours, a two-tier aviary, colourful geometric planting of perfumed perennials such as stocks and wallflowers and an 18-foot-high Carrara marble fountain. english-heritage.org.uk
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Rutland Water
From trout fishing to water sports and cycling routes (such as the 15-mile Peninsula loop) Rutland Water and its countryside has something for everyone. Other back-to-nature activities include visiting the nature reserve, home to the Rutland Osprey Project (watch them at their nest site or soaring over the lagoons), and the many trails. For a relaxing stroll, start at Normanton and cross the dam to Sykes Lane. anglianwaterparks.co.uk
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Gibraltar Point
Running south from the edge of Skegness, Gibraltar Point is a nature reserve on a stunning stretch of coastline. In the summer, the saltmarsh turns to a purple haze as the sea lavender comes into flower and little terns can be spotted fishing in the shallows. Look out for flocks of waders on the autumn high tides too, and birds such as redwing in winter. lincstrust.org.uk
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PHOTOS: VISIT PEAK DISTRICT & DERBYSHIRE; VISIT LINCOLN; JOHN MILLER; NATIONAL TRUST
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Theddlethorpe Dunes
MID COUNTRY
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Sherwood Forest
Famous as the home of the fictional folklore character Robin Hood, 450-acre Sherwood Forest in Nottinghamshire is also a National Nature Reserve with more than one thousand veteran oak trees. Don’t miss the Major Oak Trail (pick up a map from the visitor centre) or the Giants Trail, which winds through Europe’s largest collection of ancient oaks. visitsherwood.co.uk
10 PHOTOS: VISIT PEAK DISTRICT & DERBYSHIRE; VISIT LINCOLN; JOHN MILLER; NATIONAL TRUST
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Clent Hills
Not far from Birmingham but a world away from the city’s bustle, Clent Hills in Worcestershire has knockout views over the Cotswolds and Shropshire Hills. Set between the villages of Clent and Romsley, there are miles of woodland footpaths and bridleways to explore. Don’t miss the 18th-century folly known as The Four Stones, nor tranquil Walton Hill. nationaltrust.org.uk
Hope Valley
If you visit one corner of the Peak District National Park make it Derbyshire’s Hope Valley, which runs east to west along the boundary between the gritstone Dark Peak and limestone White Peak. Popular hikes from here include Mam Tor (known as the Shivering Mountain and often used as a launch pad by hang-gliders), Winnats Pass and the Great Ridge. Expect sensational views along the way. visitpeakdistrict.com
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Clumber Park
Once the country estate of the Dukes of Newcastle, Clumber Park near Worksop in Nottinghamshire is now owned by the National Trust. Nearly 4,000 acres of picturesque parkland, woodlands, a walled kitchen garden and a lake make up the estate (the house was demolished in 1938). The bluebell wood is glorious in spring and cycle trails criss-cross the grounds. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Kinder Scout
Derbyshire’s Kinder Scout is the highest point in the Peak District and one of the most significant (it was the site of the Mass Trespass, a peaceful protest by ramblers campaigning for open access). Set out from the villages of Edale or Hayfield – from the latter you can follow a trail towards Kinder Downfall, the tallest waterfall in the national park. visitpeakdistrict.com 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
BARNSDALE LODGE OAKHAM, RUTLAND
Now in its 31st year of trading since it was converted by its owner, the Honourable Thomas Noel, Barnsdale Lodge Hotel has 46 individually decorated bedrooms with views of the countryside and private courtyard, as well as a plethora of original features including flagstone hallways, sash windows and cast iron stoves. Today, the hotel – actually a centuries’ old farmhouse and hunting lodge on the Exton Estate in the picturesque county of Rutland – is run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for the quality of the rooms, food and location, represents superb value for money. Fresh, locally sourced produce forms the basis of the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by executive chef, David Bukowicki. As well as two dining rooms, the garden room is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors. Looking for even more privacy? Rutland Retreats are the hotel’s two and three-bed self-catering cottages just a stone’s throw away. Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk
THE ELMS HOTEL & GREENHOUSE SPA ABBERLEY, WORCESTERSHIRE
Just outside the city of Worcester, The Elms honours all that’s great about the English countryside, like beautifully preserved Queen Anne architecture, manicured lawns and acres of parkland. However, there’s nothing formulaic about this rural escape. Quirky design touches and surprising features – such as the luxurious three-bedroom apartmentstyle Gladstone Suite – set the hotel apart. And each individually designed bedroom and suite in the Queen Anne mansion is nothing short of glorious. Additional accommodations include the Hot Tub Garden rooms tucked away in the coach houses. Cosy and romantic, with direct access to the gardens, these rooms are the ideal choice for romancing couples and those who wish to bring a dog along. Take a little stroll behind the mansion to discover the self-contained, eco-conscious Greenhouse Spa where all manner of massages, body wraps, body scrubs, facials, and manicures take place at the hands of expertly trained therapists. Refuel at the Badger Bar & Grill, serving hearty British comfort food alongside cocktails and afternoon tea. Doubles from £179 +44 (0)1299 896666; theelmshotel.co.uk 108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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MID COUNTRY
THE FALCON CASTLE ASHBY, NORTHAMPTON
The idyllic rural village of Castle Ashby is set within the 10,500-acre Castle Ashby Estate, the ancestral home of the 7th Marquess of Northampton, and at its centre sits The Falcon, a Grade II-listed coaching inn built in 1594. It’s a magnificent country retreat that was recently lovingly transformed and completely reimagined by Lord and Lady Northampton. There’s 22 bedrooms spread across the main hotel and adjacent cottages; bedroom five is the showstopper, with a private terrace and far-stretching lake views. Some cottages can be booked together to create larger suites, perfect for families. A connection to nature is at the hotel’s heart, and it’s easy to see why given its restorative surroundings. A multitude of wellbeing and meditative activities are on offer, including yoga, cycling, nature walks and wild swimming. A boot room stocked with Hunter wellies is there for rainier days. Dining on the sun-drenched terrace of Eyas Restaurant (meaning a young falcon learning to fly) is sublime, with a menu celebrating exquisite local produce and healthfulness. A new retreat set to take off, just like its namesake. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1604 698005, thefalcon-castleashby.com
HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND
Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, opened it in July 1980. Contented but never complacent, it offers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of chef Aaron Patterson (the hotel has held a Michelin star for over a record 35 unbroken years) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, The Croquet Pavilion is a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel, with a sitting room, breakfast room and private terrace. There’s also a swimming pool, tennis court, kitchen garden and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s many aficionados return to their haven, where loyal key staff – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up 200 years of continual service between them. Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 109
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM
Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre with a private car park and secluded garden. One of the highest-rated hotels in the region, it was purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Six have private terraces with access directly into the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. Within the hotel the Hart’s Kitchen restaurant is a brilliant example of modern British cooking at its best, with menus created by executive chef Aaron Patterson from Hart’s sister hotel, the Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall (p109). No extravagant flights of fancy, but first-class dishes such as gnocchi with wild garlic or whole grilled plaice, created using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk
LANGAR HALL LANGAR, NOTTINGHAM
There’s always been a strong female line at Langar Hall: Imogen Skirving’s greatgrandmother bought the house in 1860, and her grandmother started the local WI. Its transformation from private house to hotel, is the achievement of Imogen who, over 26 years, remoulded her apricot-washed Georgian house into an instantly likeable home-from-home, blending personality with country charm. Although Imogen died five years ago, aged 78, all is not lost: she lives on in the portrait that graces the pillared hall and in her granddaughter Lila, who took the reins aged 22, and ensures that nothing has changed – including the vibrant atmosphere. The food (‘classic English with a twist’), from long-standing executive chef Gary Booth, is better than ever, and Michael, the maître d’, remains an integral part of Langar’s appeal alongside the general manager, Ben Rivett. With 13 bedrooms, the house stands next to the village church, surrounded by a mature garden and overlooking medieval carp ponds. Imogen’s aim was to allow her magical house to survive into the 21st century, and it continues to do so. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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MID COUNTRY
THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE
Charming and elegant, The Peacock at Rowsley is a stylish boutique hotel and celebrated gastronomic destination where guests can expect first-class service, comfortable bedrooms and superb food. Built in the 1600s, and a former dower house for Haddon Hall, it’s been a hotel since 1820. Today, it showcases the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary design, with a sense of the family history of the hotel’s owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches by his greatgrandmother of the great and good of her day. There are 15 distinctively decorated bedrooms with gleaming marble bathrooms (two have four-posters made locally on the Haddon Estate), a fine dining restaurant (look for the carved mice in the original Mousey Thompson furniture) and a splendidly atmospheric bar. Food is at the heart of the place, with acclaimed head chef Dan Smith creating new menus each season, including a spectacular nine-course tasting menu and Sunday lunch – a favourite with the locals. It’s an ideal base for exploring the Peak District, with extensive dry fly wild trout fishing on the doorstep. Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com
WILDHIVE CALLOW HALL ASHBOURNE, DERBYSHIRE
Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Victorian Callow Hall has just emerged from a top-to-toe refurbishment (it’s the first opening from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways). Stay in the main house where rooms with an eclectic, playful feel are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in a cosy, tucked-away woodland hive. There are also two spectacular selfcontained treehouses, each with an outdoor tub on the deck. The wellness centre in The Coach House has a Pilates studio, sauna and steam room, botanical massages on the treatment menu and bicycles that guests can borrow to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail. Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take afternoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for the seasonal dishes using British produce at dinner – broad bean falafel with beetroot hummus, locally sourced steak burger with Dovedale cheese and smoked bacon – in the Garden Room restaurant. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District. Doubles from £179 +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 111
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Nigel Morton, Window of Opportunity, Norfolk. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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EAST ANGLIA Prepare to be swept away by vast deserted beaches, the rarest of wildlife and light-filled afternoons that seem to stretch on forever under skies reminiscent of Africa. Whether you’re exploring by boat, foot or bike, East Anglia awaits with all its glories
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
TAKE IN THE VIEW
Discover deserted beaches, rare birds and the joys of crabbing. By Amy Wakeham
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Wells-next-the-Sea
A picture-perfect seaside town, Wells-nextthe-Sea is a bustling fishing village with a quay that’s ideal for spending a peaceful few hours’ crabbing. Next, rent one of Wells’ paintboxbright beach huts as a base for exploring the vast, picturesque beach, bordered by pine trees and miles of sweeping sand dunes. wellsguide.com
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East Ruston Gardens
There was no garden at all when Alan Gray and Graham Robeson first came to the Old Vicarage in East Ruston in 1973. Almost 50 years later it’s now 32 acres of arcadian splendour, with a unique microclimate (due to its 1.5 mileproximity to the coast) that’s beneficial for rare and unusual plants. There’s also a plant nursery and two tea rooms, so you can really take your time and soak up the verdure. e-ruston-oldvicaragegardens.co.uk One of Norfolk’s out-of-the-way beaches, Burnham Overy Staithe is only accessible on foot, with a tranquil one-mile walk through marshes and dunes before you emerge onto a deserted stretch of golden sand. Wide, shallow pools emerge as the tide recedes, warmed by the sun and perfect for paddling. No café, loos or ice cream vans here – just you, your sandwiches and the endless horizon. explorenorfolkuk.co.uk
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Scolt Head Island
A small, secluded paradise of sand dunes, salt marsh, mudflats, and shingle beaches, Scolt Head Island is only accessible at low tide by scrambling – and sometimes wading – across the shore or at high tide by ferry from Burnham Overy Staithe. It’s brilliant for wildlife spotting and is an internationally important site for breeding terns and wildfowl, as well as rare plants. islandeering.com
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Sculpture at Snape Maltings
Best known as the home of Benjamin Britten’s Aldeburgh Festival, Snape Maltings has also exhibited the works of world-famous artists since its concert hall opened in 1967. You can wander among works by Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth in its grounds, before catching a concert from the Summer at Snape series, which stages daily performances across classical music, folk and jazz. 23 July to 31 August 2021, snapemaltings.co.uk
PHOTOS: JUSTIN MINNS; GETTY; CHRIS LACEY; TREVOR RAY HART
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Burnham Overy Staithe beach
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The Brecks
Characterised by its purple heath, twisted Scots pines and sunny climate, the Brecks in Norfolk has a fascinating history. Visit Grime’s Graves, a Stone Age flint mine, where the remains of nine woolly mammoths were found. Nearby Thetford was also the home of the Iceni tribe whose queen, Boudicca, rode out in her chariot to confront the Romans in 60AD. brecks.org
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The Black Beacon
One of East Anglia’s prettiest villages, and home to a 12th-century castle, Orford was also the HQ of important military operations in WWII. The imposing Black Beacon, found halfway along the ten-mile shingle spit, was secretly a homing beacon for returning pilots. Climb it for sweeping views over Orford Ness and the Suffolk coast. nationaltrust.org.uk
Stiffkey Salt Marshes
Twisting muddy creeks, tidal pools and endless skies are a paradise for birds and birdspotters alike at Stiffkey Salt Marshes in north Norfolk. Part of Blakeney National Nature Reserve, the salt marshes are home to many rare breeding birds. The Norfolk Coast Path skirts the marshes to both east and west, meaning there are plenty of opportunities to get your binoculars out. visitnorthnorfolk.com
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Norfolk Wherries
PHOTOS: JUSTIN MINNS; GETTY; CHRIS LACEY; TREVOR RAY HART
Norfolk wherries used to be found all over the Norfolk Broads and were used to transport people and goods before the advent of railways and cars. Now there are only eight left in existence, the oldest of which dates back to 1898. The good news is you can charter one and use it as a base to explore the twists and turns of the scenic Broads. wherryyachtcharter.org; norfolkbroads.com
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Constable Country
Amble around the green fields and hills of east Suffolk, popularly named after the painter John Constable, who immortalised the area in his work. Visit Willy Lott’s House, site of The Hay Wain, in the hamlet of Flatford; the historic mill owned by John Constable’s father, Golding Constable, is also worth a visit. nationaltrust.co.uk 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
BANK HOUSE KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK
Overlooking King’s Staithe Square and the River Great Ouse in the fascinating historic centre of King’s Lynn, Bank House is a glorious Georgian townhouse built by a wealthy wine merchant who shipped imported wine downriver to the Cambridge colleges and the Bishop of Ely. It was here in the 1780s that Joseph Gurney, later a founder of Barclays, set up his first bank; converted into a stylish, relaxed and exceptionally good value hotel in 2008, it is now run by Michael Baldwin of South Quay Hotels. Upstairs, 12 chic, individually decorated bedrooms comfortably blend old and new with antique furniture and modern art. Downstairs, the brasserie restaurant occupies Gurney’s purpose-built Counting House, now a buzzing local favourite serving highly recommended food. The adjacent bar, once the bank manager’s office, is open all day for tea, coffee and cakes, as well as drinks and cocktails. There’s also a large sunny room with sofas and comfy seating, as well as the Billiards Room and the Boardroom, ideal for private parties. If it’s warm, the riverside terrace offers the chance for al fresco drinks. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1553 660492; thebankhouse.co.uk
BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK
Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of north Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and out to Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The family-owned hotel, built in the 1920s, has been sensitively modernised in recent years and now has 60 rooms, all unfussy and seaside-fresh, with crisp white linens on comfortable beds. Many have balconies, or look out onto the south-facing garden; others come with their own patio. Panoramic vistas of the stunning salt marsh landscape can be seen from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. When guests aren’t out walking the north Norfolk coastal path, exploring beaches or visiting one of the charming nearby towns, there are two spacious lounges for relaxing, plus a billiard and games room. The indoor pool, steam room, sauna and spa bath are another big draw for repeat guests, too. Doubles from £278 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeney-hotel.co.uk 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK
This calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, has a special feature: its acclaimed herb gardens, containing several hundred varieties, plus orchards and a kitchen garden. Inside, a lovely stone floor graces the elegant hall with its greygreen walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of fresh garden flowers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. The Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed with locally sourced dishes like pressed beetroot with goats curd followed by baked hake with parsnip velouté and rhubarb crumble tart. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between those in the house (the top floor rooms are small but charming) and others in the garden wing, next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa. The house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. Afternoon tea is a delight here, and then it’s back to those 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk
THE DABBLING DUCK GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK
In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer, whose prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration: wooden floors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books. There are eight bedrooms – five upstairs as well as three garden rooms – plus the newly refurbished Duckling Cottage, a few doors away, which sleeps six. The pub has a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. The terrific food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef Dale Smith. For a more al fresco dining experience, there’s also a beautiful oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner for the winter months, an outside bar and a kitchen that showcases Dale’s menu of street food and wood-fired pizza. The barn opens up on to the pub garden, where there’s a play area to keep the little ones busy. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 117
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE GIN TRAP INN RINGSTEAD, NORFOLK
In the pretty village of Ringstead this charming 17th-century coaching inn has been welcoming guests for 350 years. A stone’s throw away from the scenic north Norfolk coast – a designated area of outstanding natural beauty – it’s perfectly positioned for exploring the region’s best sights, from Holkham Hall and the dunes of Holkham beach to the crab huts of Brancaster Staithe. Known for its flavour-packed seasonal food and sun trap garden, diners can delight in its ingredient-led menu – a celebration of local produce, much of which is foraged from the coast. The inn’s history can be felt in the bar’s low black beams and gin-trap light fittings, a contrast to the soft pastels of the bright and airy conservatory dining space. Ten uniquely designed rooms and suites have glorious freestanding cast iron baths, and far-reaching countryside views. For more space and privacy, choose from three two-bedroom cottages. Overnight guests also have the benefit of the chef’s utterly indulgent signature breakfast of bagels topped with house made 88 per cent chocolate spread, roast bananas and maple syrup… heaven! Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1485 525264; thegintrapinn.co.uk
THE HARPER LANGHAM, NORFOLK
Located in the pretty village of Langham, a mile inland from the coast at Blakeney, The Harper is a laid-back, contemporary country escape. Housed in a brick-and-flint barn that was once part of Langham Glass, unfussy yet refined interiors nod to its industrial past (and the story of Stanley Harper Cutmore, the owner’s grandfather who was a mechanic) with flashes of iron, copper, oak and slate. Rooms (choose from Big, Bigger or Biggest) come with modern four posters, leather armchairs, underfloor heating and lovely touches, from proper coffee in compostable pods by Roar Gill to pre-mixed house cocktails in the fridge. There’s a cosy bar for comfort food lunches (broken brisket and rarebit burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese, ceviche tacos); Ivy’s lounge with arched windows facing the courtyard and a wood-burning stove; and Stanley’s restaurant, where guests can expect fine dining without the frippery (try the whole sea bass or Norfolk Estate ribeye from the wood-fired Josper grill). Book in for a massage in the spa or pre-order a picnic hamper and explore. Holkham Beach and Wells-next-theSea are a short drive away. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1328 805000; theharper.co.uk 118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE ICKWORTH HOTEL BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK
Of the Luxury Family Hotels group, The Ickworth is surely the most remarkable. For anyone, however aristocratic, it would make an impressive place to stay, but the fact that the East Wing, home to the eccentric Hervey family for almost 200 years, now offers fun for families, is remarkable indeed. The Ickworth’s entrance is flanked by rows of Dubarry boots, and families romp happily about the grounds with fabulous views over formal gardens and gently rolling countryside. Babies are looked after in the crèche, while older children revel in the indoor pool or adventure playground. Parents can escape to the treatment rooms and enjoy romantic suppers, thanks to the baby listening devices available to borrow from reception. Bedrooms range from traditional to modern and include interconnecting rooms and suites, plus apartments in Ickworth Lodge, a short walk away. There are 1,800 acres of parkland to explore: hire bikes from the hotel and cycle round the estate’s new, all-weather, six-mile cycle route. With a dog friendly ethos, it’s also perfect for four-legged friends. Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1284 735350; ickworthhotel.co.uk
THE ROSE & CROWN SNETTISHAM, NORFOLK
If you love to be cosy, to snuggle down in a cloud-like bed dressed in crisp white linen and listen to the wind as it whips along the coast, knowing that in the morning a famous Great British Breakfast awaits, then you will surely love The Rose & Crown in Norfolk. Upstairs, the bedrooms are full of uncomplicated charm, yet lack for nothing – even Molton Brown toiletries in the en-suite bathrooms. Downstairs, this quintessential English inn, drenched in character, is full of hidden corners, old beams, log fires and pamment-tiled floors, with two centuriesold bars – one with the original penny seat and bread oven, the other home to the Snettisham Cricket Club, complete with honours board. The highly regarded food is served in three dining rooms, where the regularly changing menu includes local seafood, samphire, asparagus, strawberries and game in season. Wildly beautiful Snettisham Beach is home to thousands of migrating birds, including huge ‘V’ formations of geese that fly overhead, morning and evening, throughout the winter. Magical. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1485 541382; roseandcrownsnettisham.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 119
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE SUN INN DEDHAM, ESSEX
The Sun Inn on the Essex-Suffolk border is a charming base from which to explore the Dedham Vale. This bucolic area has changed little since it was immortalised by John Constable in paintings like The Hay Wain. You can borrow bikes from them to explore, or rent a boat on the River Stour; the pub will even make you a picnic. The bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pubby with beams and wooden floors, open fires and an elm bar lined with jolly locals and their dogs. There are newspapers to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into, plus seven individually decorated bedrooms with centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. The restaurant’s seasonal food is big on flavour and inspired by Italy: think home-made pasta, fish from Mersea day boats, local meat, game and fruit & veg in season. There’s also a tasty bar menu for casual occasions, local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare treats. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com
UNIVERSITY ARMS CAMBRIDGE
Cambridge’s leading luxury hotel is by far its most exciting. The 19th-century façade facing the parkland of Parker’s Piece – where the first game of FA rules football was played – has been restored, with stained glass windows throughout and an extra floor of suites featuring classic Edwardian interiors, bespoke furniture and private terraces. The hotel’s articulated roof line is ingenious, the real triumph being architect John Simpson’s neoclassical design: the elegant new porte-cochère on Regent Street, which heralds the building with stately impact, inviting visitors through one of three handsome front doors. One for guests staying in one of the 192 suitably bookish and eclectic rooms, painted in shades of Cambridge blue. The additional two are for Parker’s Tavern, a brasserie restaurant and cocktail bar, with interiors (like the bedrooms) by Martin Brudnizki. This charming evocation of a college dining hall is graced by a menu showcasing seasonal produce from talented chef Tristan Welch. It’s the town’s hottest dining destination: old school but hip. One for your radar. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1223 606066; universityarms.com 120 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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EAST ANGLIA
THE VICTORIA INN HOLKHAM, NORFOLK
One of the great pleasures in life is walking on the beach at Holkham, an unspoilt and beautiful stretch of sand, memorably featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare In Love. Behind it stands fabulous Holkham Hall and its 25,000-acre estate, seat of the Earl of Leicester and rich in history, architecture and wildlife. Just a few minutes from the beach at the gates of Holkam Hall, stands the Earl’s gorgeous brick and flint inn, The Victoria, affectionately known as The Vic. It has never looked better: a series of lovely sitting rooms, bar and dining room with an airy conservatory extension where delicious, locally sourced, seasonal food is served. Heated by biomass with wood from the estate, and awarded Green Tourism Gold status, The Vic certainly has sustainability at its core. The bedrooms are lovely, too, and The Victoria makes a wonderful base for exploring the local area. From the stunning panoramic landscape of the nearby Holkham National Nature Reserve to the old-fashioned beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea, there’s plenty of great walking to do right there on the doorstep. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1328 711008; holkham.co.uk/victoria
THE WHITE HOUSE BURNHAM MARKET, NORFOLK
In the heart of the North Norfolk countryside yet just a few miles from the sea, The White House is a secluded, serene retreat. The renovated Georgian house has 12 tranquil, individually designed bedrooms – many with freestanding baths and all with a Roberts radio, crisp white sheets and natural 100 Acres products. The reception rooms are decorated with rich colours, sumptuous velvet sofas and specially commissioned work by Norfolk artists. Light streams in through huge windows; there’s a fire for gathering round; an honesty bar for drinks; and French doors that fling open onto the terrace. In the mornings, made-to-order dishes such as pancakes and porridge will set you up for the day whether you fancy a trip to Burnham Market or staying put to relax in front of the wood burner in the walled garden. Guests can play tennis, croquet or hire bicycles to explore the coast. Gorgeous Brancaster beach is nearby too, where keen walkers can pick up the Norfolk Coast Path. When it’s not run as a luxe B&B, the place can be taken over for house parties. Doubles from £140 B&B +44 (0)7785 439727; stayatthewhitehouse.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 121
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David Kidwell, Tree in Stythwaite Meadow, Cumbria. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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Vikings, Romans, hermits and holy islands: history is everywhere you look in England’s rugged northern parts. And natural history, too, is all around, from tumbling waterfalls to beaches of golden sand
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TAKE IN THE VIEW
A pilgrimage across rugged hills and windswept beaches. By Sofia Tindall
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Robin Hood’s Bay
North Yorkshire’s coastline is earning a reputation to rival Cornwall’s. Stretching between Scarborough and Whitby are wildly beautiful shores, with the tiny cove of Robin Hood’s Bay nestled at the centre. Crammed with twisting cobbled lanes and fisherman’s cottages, there are barely enough hours in the day to get fully immersed. Stop off at the Fish Box for proper fish and chips (gravy optional). fishboxwhitby.co.uk
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Lindisfarne Holy Island
Twice a day the stormy tide that normally encircles Lindisfarne, Northumbria’s Holy Island, draws back, making this tiny island accessible by foot. Visitors can marvel at the medieval priory and church along with three pubs and a historic castle – all part of Lindisfarne’s extraordinary history, which saw its fair share of Viking and Norman invasions. lindisfarne.org.uk Castlerigg Stone Circle in Keswick sits at the base of some of the area’s most impressive mountains, with staggering views out across Helvellyn. An example of one of the earliest stone circles, it was constructed in the Neolithic period around 3,000 BC. Just a two-mile stroll away is the market town of Keswick with excellent local dining and brewery tours. english-heritage.org.uk
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St Robert’s Cave
Fancy a pilgrimage? Get your sandals on (or Patagonia walking boots), and head to St Robert’s Cave, a rare example of a medieval hermitage. It was here that Robert of Knaresborough (later sainted) lived much of his life. Visitors can sit awhile at the bench in the entrance or enjoy a moment of quiet contemplation in the Chapel of the Holy Cross, where you can see remnants of the former altar and St Robert’s grave. visitharrogate.co.uk
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Rivington Pike
Dating back to 1138, the historic tower of Rivington Pike is reached via a walk that takes you alongside the Rivington Reservoirs on the West Pennine Moors. As you walk along the water’s edge, keep an eye out for the remains of an abandoned inn and cottages that occasionally resurface – the ghostly remains of a historical village that lies beneath the water. visitnorthwest.com
PHOTOS: IAN LAWSON; GETTY; ENGLISH HERITAGE
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Castlerigg Stone Circle
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Viking Way
Beginning on the banks of the Humber estuary, the 147-mile Viking Way walk isn’t for the faint-hearted – but it’s the perfect way to blow away the cobwebs. This famous trail traverses an area once occupied by Norse invaders, winding through the Lincolnshire Wolds, Bain Valley and native flat fenlands before finishing at Oakham in Rutland. visitlincoln.com
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Scampston Walled Garden
Within a 15-minute drive of Malton you’ll find the 18th-century Capability Brown parklands of Scampston’s magnificent estate, plus its contemporary take on a walled garden. Dutch plantsman Piet Oudolf masterminded the design when it was reimagined in 1999, and today it remains one of the most impressive and defining examples of his work. scampston.co.uk
The Atom
Pendle attained historical infamy for its role in Lancashire’s 17th-century witch trials. A more modern draw is the Atom panopticon nestled up in the hills. Designed by Peter Meacock and Katarina Novomestska, it looks down over the village of Wycoller. Brontë enthusiasts should pay a visit – the dramatic ruins of Wycoller Hall are thought to be the inspiration for Thornfield Hall in Jane Eyre. visitpendle.com
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Finchale Priory
There’s no mystery as to why, after a life of adventure, St Godric decided to build his final resting place on the banks of the River Wear. The wooded setting of the now-ruined Finchale Priory is a sublimely peaceful one, looking across the rippling waters of the river and the countryside. It’s one stop on the Camino Inglés, the pilgrimage route that ends at Santiago de Compostela in Spain. english-heritage.org.uk
PHOTOS: IAN LAWSON; GETTY; ENGLISH HERITAGE
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Hardraw Force
If sampling local ales is more your pace than hiking up the Three Peaks, stop off at the Green Dragon Inn and walk to Hardraw Force, England’s largest single-drop waterfall. A 340-million-year-old fossil of Megapezia footprints was discovered nearby and is now housed at the Natural History Museum. A perfect talking point over a post-walk pint. hardrawforce.com 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE ALICE HAWTHORN NUN MONKTON, YORKSHIRE
Named after a local racehorse, this charming Grade II-listed pub in Nun Monkton has long had an outstanding reputation for its Michelin-plate food. Now, it has added 12 new rooms too, four above the pub with exposed beams and a restful colour palette (two also have lovely views of the village green). The garden rooms made from home-grown Douglas fir with corrugated iron roofs – a nod to the area’s agricultural heritage – and exude contemporary style. Whichever you choose, all come with supremely comfortable superking beds, crisp bed linen, and a hearty or healthy breakfast. In the kitchen, chef John Topham (who manages the pub with his wife Claire) creates seasonal dishes that celebrate the best produce from Yorkshire, including fish from the East coast and game from nearby shoots. This summer, weekend diners can also tuck into wood-fired pizzas in the garden. There are many stunning walks that can be enjoyed from the pub itself as well as being an ideal location from which to explore York and Harrogate, both around a 25-minute drive away. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1423 330303; thealicehawthorn.com
ASKHAM HALL ASKHAM, CUMBRIA
If you lean towards staying in homes rather than hotels, head for this magnificent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. Askham Hall’s mighty, yet approachable Grade I-listed ‘pele tower’ (fortified house), was formerly the family home of the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale, whose son, Charlie Lowther, converted it into a hotel in 2012 after making a success of The George and Dragon in Clifton (in 2019 he also acquired Askham’s village pub, The Queen’s Head). The romantic and quintessentially English 40-acre grounds are a joy; they include a cafe (open to the public), extensive kitchen gardens and fields of free-range chickens, goats and rare-breed pigs. A joy, too, is the house with its vast drawing room, panelled French room, antiques, contemporary paintings and 19 delightful bedrooms, plus a pool, hot tub and access to a nearby Health Barn. The icing on the cake? The Allium restaurant, where the sensational food of Richard Swale is dictated by the life cycle of those gardens and fields. No wonder it holds a Michelin star. Doubles from £160 + 44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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AUGILL CASTLE KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA
Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magnificent Eden Valley. It has all the trappings of a neo-Gothic castle – tower, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. Its wonderfully warm owners, Simon and Wendy Temple-Bennett, rescued it from dereliction and have created an awardwinning and very special place to stay. It retains the atmosphere of a family home amid its vast rooms, with large fireplaces and antique furniture. There are 13 charmingly eclectic bedrooms, suites and houses spread across the estate. Those in the castle are more traditional – turrets for wardrobes, claw-foot baths, stained glass windows – while the estate houses feel more modern. The castle’s restaurant, The Music Room at Augill, is headed up by chef Justin Woods who serves contemporary British dishes with a local and seasonal twist. Meanwhile the Great British Bar champions small distillers, brewers and artisan producers from across the UK. This is also a splendidly unique place for a wedding: you have the castle to yourself and there’s no set formula. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com
BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE
Brocco on the Park is a shining example of how imaginative yet practical design can lift a place far above the ordinary. A perfect marriage of pared-down Scandi chic and classic British comfort, the birds theme throughout is executed with the lightest of touches. The mantra for the hotel is ‘sleep well, eat well, live well’ and in the eight pretty, carefully crafted rooms – names include Nightjar’s Nest and Pigeon’s Loft – with wooden floors, sumptuous, tactile furnishings and Bramley products, that’s just what you do. The best is the penthouse suite Dovecote, which comes with a freestanding copper bath and a Juliet balcony. The ground floor, with an honesty bar for guests, is given over to the stylish indoor-outdoor ‘neighbourhood kitchen’ for relaxed all-day dining (‘seasonal, a little bit Scandanavian and unmistakably Sheffield’) with smorgasbord lunches, Jazzy Sundays with live music and Nordic-style tapas, and plenty of choice. And don’t miss hygge hour, with a complimentary glass of fizz available in the lounge for all guests at 5.30pm. Now that’s relaxation. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 127
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
BUXTON CRESCENT BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE
Set on the edge of the Peak District, Buxton has a history of being a spa destination ever since Roman times and the discovery of its natural thermal spring. Later, the fifth Duke of Devonshire commissioned John Carr of York to design The Crescent, a magnificent sweep of Georgian buildings to rival those in Bath. Now, after a sensitive decade-long restoration that included repairing the original painted ceilings, fluted columns and stained glass windows, it houses the Buxton Crescent hotel and spa – putting the town on the holistic wellness map once more. Alongside the mineral-rich thermal pool, highlights at the Ensana spa include an infra-red sauna, aroma steam room, salt cave and a rooftop pool. There’s a spa cafe for smoothies and superfood salads, and, in the dining room a classic British menu. After a day spent reaping the restorative health benefits of hydrotherapy, guests can sleep in modern comfort: the best rooms come with trendy four-poster beds, freestanding baths and views of the steep winding streets and slate roofs of this historic town. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1298 808999; ensanahotels.com
THE DUNCOMBE ARMS ELLASTONE, STAFFORDSHIRE
When Johnny and Laura Greenall drove past the boarded-up 19th-century inn that had once been the hub of their nearest village, they dreamed of giving it a new lease of life. After a renovation that included creating a state-of-the-art kitchen and a light-filled dining space, they opened in 2012. Now, it’s a Michelin Guide restaurant with a garden (a new pergola with a retractable roof has recently been added) that serves up pub classics and modern British fare. Everything from the bread to the ice cream is homemade and the impressive 200-strong wine list has been developed with Bibendum. After dinner, guests can stroll to Walnut House, only a few seconds away, where ten cosy country-chic bedrooms are full of homely comforts. There are also two lovely rentals: the Garden Cottage in the grounds of the Wootton Hall Estate and The Old Barn, just behind the pub, both sleeping up to six people. On the edge of the Peak District, close to the market towns of Ashbourne and Uttoxeter, this is a fantastic base from which to explore the area. Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1335 324275; duncombearms.co.uk 128 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE NORTH
FEVERSHAM ARMS HOTEL HELMSLEY, NORTH YORKSHIRE
A wonderfully spoiling hotel with all the advantages of being in a town, plus stunning countryside on the doorstep. Situated next to the church in the picturesque market town of Helmsley, this former coaching inn, built in lovely old York stone, makes an elegant yet laid-back bolthole, with chic contemporary interiors, in-house art gallery, glossy Verbena Spa and dedicated staff. The food is served in airy restaurant, The Weathervane, and the menu is rooted in Yorkshire, with as many locally sourced and foraged ingredients as possible. Al fresco dining, afternoon tea and more casual lounge options are available, too. It’s worth checking out the packages on offer such as the You & Me Time, which includes overnight accommodation in a room of your choice, a three-course dinner, full breakfast and a 60-minute treatment in the Verbena Spa (aromatherapy room, jacuzzi and heated outdoor pool, steam and sauna, and monsoon shower). The 33 rooms and suites have all the little extras in place, from duck down duvets (unless you prefer sheets and blankets) to huge soft towels. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1439 770766; fevershamarmshotel.com
GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA
A lovely place to stay, eat and relax, close to the Eden Valley. Part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn has been imaginatively revamped by Charlie Lowther who also owns nearby Askham Hall with its Michelinstar restaurant, Allium (see p126). At the George and Dragon, the ground floor is a triumph of conviviality and authenticity. The rustic bar, with its wood-burning stoves, banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions, and sightline through to the slate-floored, duck egg blue-panelled restaurant, create a delightful place in which to while away time. And on sunny days, there is no better spot than at one of the chunky, weathered tables in the courtyard. As for the food, almost all produce comes from Askham Hall’s gardens and estate (the rest is sourced from within a 20-mile radius). Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy cooking one craves in the countryside. Speaking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s 11 comfortable bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive fishing and stalking opportunities. Families and wellbehaved dogs are welcome. Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 129
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
GRANTLEY HALL RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE
A shining north star, newcomer Grantley Hall is a real destination for luxury, fun and fine dining. Dating back to 1680, this Grade II*-listed mansion house on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales boasts an English Heritage-listed ornamental Japanese garden in its beautiful grounds. A multi-millionpound restoration project by Valeria Sykes returned the mansion’s Palladian beauty to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur as well as adding several new buildings. Guests are spoiled rotten here, with 47 beautiful bedrooms, a sybaritic wellness centre, an engaging programme of events and no less than six drinking and dining venues, including pan-Asian eatery, Restaurant EightyEight, and a glamorous late night champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies will rub their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal restaurant, set in one of the original public rooms overlooking the formal gardens, belongs to Yorkshireman and culinary maestro, Shaun Rankin, and was recently awarded a Michelin star. Gastronomic delights, 17th-century splendour and contemporary design. Doubles from £450 +44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk
HARE & HOUNDS
PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
LEVENS, CUMBRIA
Not only is the modest but charming Hare & Hounds that rare find – a thriving watering hole – it’s also the only place for miles that serves food all day, every day. It’s their background as former managers of London branches of All Bar One that makes it natural for the owners, Ash and Becky Dewar, to offer continual dining. Coupled with their easygoing, friendly approach, this has once again made the centuriesold inn a popular local hub. The website sums it up: ‘We are friendly and welcoming to all: families, tourists, walkers, cyclists, children, muddy boots, dogs.’ The menu of homemade pizzas, burgers and pub classics, plus drinks – including cocktails – can be enjoyed by the fire in the bar or, on sunny days, in the spacious terraced beer garden. For overnight visitors there are four bedrooms, smartly decorated and luxuriously equipped above the pub, while for less transient guests there’s a spacious new barn annexe with all the facilities for self-catering, plus handy access to the pub for meals. For a cosy night in, staff can even deliver pub food straight to your door. Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1539 560004; hareandhoundslevens.co.uk 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE NORTH
HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM
The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk (p134), but also the archetypal English country house hotel at Headlam Hall. It helps that the hall is a fine-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and roses. Vegetables, herbs and fruit are also grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, the exquisitely proportioned rooms have wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms (split between the Main Hall, Coach House, Mews and Spa) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own ninehole golf course, fabulous spa and classic cars available for daily hire in the summer, this is a hotel that absolutely everyone will enjoy… even the most dedicated of petrolheads. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk
LINTHWAITE HOUSE
PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA
Linthwaite House, built in 1900 as a private home, is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understatedly elegant and professional but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the view over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, is simply unbeatable. You’ll find a crackling fire in the hall’s carved mahogany fireplace, beyond which beckons the light, and an airy bar and conservatory, with those mesmerising views. Outside, in the wooded, gently sloping grounds, there’s a tarn with a secluded summerhouse and six Lake Suites, with views of the surrounding Lake District scenery. Take out a rowing boat for breathtaking views of Lake Windermere. Back in the hotel, there are two dining options: the casual Bar and Conservatory and the hotel’s main restaurant, Henrock. Both are overseen by award-winning Chef Simon Rogan and make use of the freshest local Cumbrian ingredients. The bedrooms are the last word in lakeland luxury. Add a croquet lawn, pétanque, outdoor chessboard and fishing on the tarn, and you have a Lake District hotel that ticks all the boxes. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com/uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 131
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE
If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, quaint sitting rooms (each with a roaring fire) and views of the ha-ha. The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house style bedrooms, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff. For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble soufflé with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel that’s as alluring in winter – all cosy and snug – as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the first women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here. This is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust-owned Historic House Hotel. Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com
MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE
The independently owned Palladian estate, Middleton Lodge, is just about the coolest hotel in Yorkshire. There are 45 bedrooms scattered across the 200 acres of carefully landscaped grounds: the newest addition is the Dairy Cottage, which comprises a mezzanine bedroom with a double-height living area, wood burning stove, round copper bathtub and hot tub on the terrace – plus, of course, ample original details. Another favourite is the old Head Gardener’s Cottage, hidden within the walls of the Grade II-listed walled garden and with doors that open out onto the two acres of year-round colour. Designed by RHS Chelsea gold winner Tom Stuart-Smith, the gardens are at the core of the estate and provide the primary inspiration for its acclaimed restaurant, the Coach House. There are also plans afoot for a new collection of rooms to be completed this year in the old Orchard, along with the restoration of the original Victorian glasshouses where even more fresh produce will be grown. Sounds rather delicious. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk 132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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THE NORTH
MOOR HALL AUGHTON, LANCASHIRE
A gastronomic hotspot that has already reached the stars: two Michelin ones to be precise. The 16th-century Moor Hall was transformed into an opulent restaurant with rooms in 2017, achieving its first Michelin star within six months of opening and the second in 2018. Chef patron Mark Birchall is the selfeffacing culinary genius at the helm. Inspired by the property’s exceptional surroundings and homegrown ingredients, the menu is a celebration of modern British cuisine, served on local, specially designed pottery, with wines to match. There are seven gorgeous bedrooms. Five in the main house have period features, overlooking landscaped gardens and a glistening lake. Our favourite – The Mulberry Suite – is the most spacious, with a showstopper freestanding bath in front of an open marble fireplace. In the gatehouse by the lake, two further bedrooms have a more contemporary feel and enormous emperor beds. The Barn at Moor Hall next door is Birchall’s fantastic neighbourhood restaurant that again celebrates the most local produce, from aged Holstein Friesian beef with cured egg yolk to Yorkshire rhubarb with cream cheese mousse. Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1695 572511; moorhall.com
RAITHWAITE SANDSEND NR WHITBY, YORKSHIRE
Ideally located between the sweep of Sandsend beach and the wilds of the North York Moors, Raithwaite Sandsend is a relaxing coastal retreat. Stylish, newly refurbished bedrooms range from cosy in the eaves to spacious two-bedroom family suites, each with a private outdoor space and views of the orchards. Bar 1822 is the spot for a post-walk pint or a pre-dinner cocktail on the terrace, before sitting down to eat in the redesigned restaurant. Here, just-picked vegetables from the Dales, the freshest seafood from Whitby, mushrooms foraged from the grounds and herbs from the organic garden all regularly feature on the menu. The concierge can arrange surf lessons and SUP boards for those who want to get out onto the water, or ask about the hotel’s new sunset yoga sessions on the beach. There’s an onsite spa (with a heated pool, steam and sauna), lovely walks that begin on the estate and the picturesque village of Robin Hood’s Bay nearby. In other words, masses to see and do in this gorgeous corner of Yorkshire. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1947 661661; raithwaitesandsend.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 133
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM
For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, with beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown. Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (p131), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: fine hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry. There are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone fires, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include homemade parsnip and apple soup or venison bourguignon pie. The 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terrific character and charm. It’s also brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and fly fishing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk
ROTHAY MANOR AMBLESIDE, CUMBRIA
Dating back to 1823, this handsome white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District, at the northern tip of Lake Windermere. Husband and wife duo, Jenna and Jamie Shail, are breathing new life into the property, completing extensive stylish renovations on the main house’s 15 rooms, some with private terraces, others with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds. Next up is The Pavilion: eight beautiful garden suites designed with a soft, country-inspired, colour palette, peppered with opulent fabrics, sumptuous furnishings and luxury amenities. Already a culinary hotspot, even more excitement now surrounds Dan McGeorge’s hotel restaurant, after he was crowned ‘Champion of Champions’ in the final of the BBC’s Great British Menu TV series. A seven-course tasting menu inspired by the show, and his triumphant dessert dish, is on offer throughout the summer. A bucolic boutique bolthole, perfectly situated for easy lake walks and hilly hikes, and a 10 minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 33605; rothaymanor.co.uk 134 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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SEAHAM HALL SEAHAM, COUNTY DURHAM
A Georgian country-house hotel that’s rich in heritage, contemporary in style, Seaham Hall is known for its award-winning Serenity Spa. Drawing influence from Far Eastern healing and wellness rituals, holistic treatments range from hypnotherapy to Ishga seaweed baths and soothing massages (arrive from 3pm to indulge in the steam, sauna, hydrotherapy thermal experiences and outdoor Zen Garden). Afterwards, grab a bite at the panAsian restaurant Ozone – think warming curries and sizzling stir fries – or book in at the Dining Room. The decoration here features glittering chandeliers and a portrait of onetime resident Lord Byron on the wall while the seasonal modern British fare is inspired by the North Sea and glorious Durham countryside. At night, bed down in one of the individually designed lavish suites with super king size Hypnos beds; some come with a private hot tub and garden, whilst the split-level Ada Love Lace suite has twin slipper baths. This summer, the hotel has an exciting line-up of events, from a pop-up champagne and seafood bar, to live music on Sundays under the pergola and movie nights on the terrace. Doubles from £315 +44 (0)191 516 1400; seaham-hall.co.uk
STORRS HALL BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE, LANCASHIRE
A Grade II-listed Georgian mansion surrounded by 17 acres of gardens and woodland, family-run Storrs Hall has a prime position on the shores of Lake Windermere. There are 30 classic bedrooms in the main house, all with original features, grand proportions and antique furniture. Alternatively, you can stay in the 200-year-old stone Boathouse with a fire pit on the terrace (the perfect spot for watching the sunset) or in one of six contemporary Lakeside Suites (adults only) on a rocky outcrop above the lake, each with sliding glass walls and a cedar hot tub on a private deck. Start the evening with drinks by the crackling fire in the Tower Bar, with its ornate carved wood and stained glass bar originally sourced from the Blackpool Tower Ballroom, before supper at the Lake Edge Restaurant. Of course, this is the Lake District so there’s masses to see and do, from hiking the fells to pottering around pretty lakeside towns but the hotel can arrange activities too, from a canoe and bushcraft afternoon to a RIB safari from the private jetty. Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1539 447111; storrshall.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 135
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Martin Pickles, Summer Evening on Llandudno Prom, Denbighshire. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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WALES & THE MARCHES
Strap on your hiking boots: Wales is best seen on foot, whether that’s scaling the highest of its peaks, or ambling through its idyllic gardens. Make sure you stop off en route to stock up on its unbeatable local produce
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TAKE IN THE VIEW
Beaches to bound along and vistas worthpounding peaks. By Emma Love
1
Barafundle Bay
Wales has countless beautiful beaches but one of the best is Barafundle Bay on the Pembrokeshire coast. Belonging to the Stackpole Estate, the swathe of pristine sand is set between limestone cliffs and backed by pine trees. The fact it feels so secluded – it’s a half-mile walk along the coastal path from Stackpole Quay harbour – only adds to its endless appeal. nationaltrust.org.uk PHOTOS: NATIONAL TRUST/JOE CORNISH; BEN SELWAY; JOHN MILLAR; VISIT WALES; CROWN COPYRIGHT
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Three Cliffs Bay
With a trio of limestone cliffs and salt marshes behind, and the Pennard stream snaking past rock pools, Three Cliffs Bay is one of the most photographed beaches in Wales. Found on the Gower Peninsula (the UK’s first Area of Outstanding Beauty back in 1956), it’s the ideal spot for a picnic if you’re walking along the Wales Coast Path. visitwales.com
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Pen y Fan
A favourite with hikers exploring the Brecon Beacons, Pen y Fan stands at an impressive 886m above sea level. The panoramic vistas from the summit are worth every step of the climb: to the north, there’s the town of Brecon and, in the distance on a good day, the peak of Snowdonia’s Cadair Idris. Face east for a glimpse of Sugar Loaf in the Black Mountains. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Ynys Llanddwyn
Part of the Newborough Warren National Nature Reserve, Ynys Llanddwyn on the Anglesey coast is a narrow finger of land connected to Llanddwyn Bay (except at high tide). As well as the ruins of 16th-century St Dwynwen’s church and the whitewashed Tŵr Mawr lighthouse, look out for Bird Rock, a small islet off the tip popular with nesting cormorants and oystercatchers. visitanglesey.co.uk
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National Botanic Garden of Wales
From the apothecary garden of healing herbs to the semi-wild woodlands of the arboretum, the National Botanic Garden of Wales in Carmarthenshire is a gardener’s paradise. Don’t miss the plants from Mediterranean climates in the Norman Foster-designed glasshouse – it’s the largest collection in the northern hemisphere with some of the most endangered species. botanicgarden.wales
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WALES & THE MARCHES
9
Pistyll Rhaeadr
Often labelled one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, this impressive waterfall in the Berwyn Mountains cascades down over an 80m cliff face into the River Rhaeadr below. For those wanting to get up close, a three-mile circuit crosses the foot of the fall. There’s also a tea room, the Tan-y-Pistyll Cafe, which has a lovely garden, perfect for an ice-cream pit stop. pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk
10 PHOTOS: NATIONAL TRUST/JOE CORNISH; BEN SELWAY; JOHN MILLAR; VISIT WALES; CROWN COPYRIGHT
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Bodnant Garden
Spanning 80 acres above the River Conwy, Bodnant Garden began in 1875 with species sourced from famous plant hunters. Today it has Italianate terraces with fragrant rose gardens, ‘champion’ tall trees from around the world, lily ponds and a lush dell. Highlights include its rhododendrons and the golden laburnum arch in spring, and the Winter Garden. nationaltrust.org.uk
Ogwen Valley
The Ogwen Valley in Snowdonia is known for its dramatic scenery and accompanying folklore legends (Bedwyr Bedrynant, a knight of King Arthur, is said to have thrown the Excalibur sword into Lake Ogwen, where it is still believed to lie today). Stroll round the lake itself or follow the trail towards Cwm Idwal, a second lake in a bowl-shaped hollow carved by ancient glaciers. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Llanberis Path, Mount Snowdon
One of the most recognisable landmarks in Wales (and its highest mountain), Snowdon stands tall at 1,085m. Six different paths lead to the top; the easiest and longest is the nine-mile (14.5km) Llanberis Path, which is roughly a six-hour round trip. If you don’t fancy scaling the peak on foot, hop on the Snowdon mountain railway for a leisurely ride to the summit instead. visitsnowdonia.info
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Ynyslas Sand Dunes
Towards the north end of three-mile Ynyslas beach in Ceredigion, you’ll find these gorgeous dunes in the mouth of the Dyfi Estuary. In the summer they transform into a carpet of wildflowers and rare orchids; in the autumn you’ll find colourful funghi. Dolphins and porpoises can often be spotted in the bay as skylarks and red kites soar above. visitwales.com 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE BEAR HOTEL CRICKHOWELL, POWYS
The Bear and Crickhowell go hand in hand, like Welsh cakes and bara brith: hardly surprising when you know that the former coaching inn has been offering hospitality to the people of the delightful Brecon Beacons town and weary travellers alike since 1432. The Bear brims with character: low beams, antiques, roaring log fires and, most of all, bonhomie – you could not ask for more. Outside, the attractive white and black beamed building drips with hanging baskets, with a cobbled forecourt and archway into the inner courtyard. In the bar, a 19thcentury stagecoach timetable is still on display. The oak-beamed bedrooms in the main house are charming, comfortable and a step back in time, while there are larger, more modern rooms in the converted stables and coach house. Best of all is the highly regarded food. An eclectic mix of modern British comfort food, gastro pub and international dishes guaranteed to delight. ‘Eat at the Bear and leave satisfied, that’s our aim,’ they say. And you will. Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1873 810408; bearhotel.co.uk
BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES
Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentlepaced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. The Grade I-listed house is filled with character, and boasts fifteen bedrooms and 16 postcard-pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate-grown and locally sourced ingredients. The former farmhouse now houses the luxurious spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain. Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com 140 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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WALES & THE MARCHES
CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE
This elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion is in an unrivalled location, owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family. The 24 bedrooms and suites are all stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where the eight striking rooms offer an array of treats, from a hospitality box filled with local produce to underfloor heating in the bathrooms. Light-filled public spaces include a smart sitting room and restaurant where French doors open onto an enchanting garden overlooking the old castle moat. Head chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locally sourced and homegrown produce from the owners’ Ballingham Hall farm. For light meals, cocktails and dinner, there’s the more informal Bar and Bistro (look out for local beers from Wye Valley Brewery) and, when the weather’s fine, the outdoor terrace. You absolutely mustn’t miss the famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. This hotel fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes. A new garden restaurant is slated to open in late 2021. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk
THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON, POWYS
This was the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head on p38 and Old Coastguard on p40). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival that takes place each spring. They all love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around and listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills, and you feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace. Look out for the new Room 8, which takes over the top of the building - a glorious vantage point into the fields beyond. After a refined dinner cooked up by new head chef Nick Evans, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 141
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
GLIFFAES CRICKHOWELL, POWYS
Gorgeous Gliffaes. Standing above the River Usk and crowned by two quirky campaniles, the house was built in the 1880s in Italianate style. There are lovely grounds and, for fishermen, five salmon and trout beats along the river. For the last 70 years it has been in the same family, and Susie and James Suter have run it with hands-on dedication for more than 20 years. Sitting on the wide stone terrace with nothing but the sound of birdsong and the rushing river is pretty unbeatable – it’s hard to imagine a more peaceful hotel. For peace to really take hold a hotel has to be loved by its owners and be genuine, unpretentious and satisfying for its guests. Gliffaes ticks both boxes. There are 23 bedrooms, four of which have superlative views over the river and the sky-high hill that shoots up beyond it. With country house fabrics and comfortable bathrooms, the rooms are traditional and pretty. There are copious afternoon teas, James Suter’s knockout martinis and, in the dining room, satisfying dishes that hit the spot. A gem. Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1874 730371; gliffaeshotel.com
THE GROVE OF NARBERTH
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PHOTOS: JACK ABBOTT
PHOTOS: OWEN HOWELLS
NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE
This striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many-windowed; the other is gabled, with arts & crafts elements that continue inside. There are 25 beautiful bedrooms including six newly refurbished cottage suites by top interior designer Martin Hulbert. Some come with fabulous new glass box garden lounges; all have a view of the gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills. Hulbert was also tasked with a recent refurbishment of the original house’s bedrooms, as well as creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground floor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements. Dinners in the Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees. Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious. Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1834 860915; thegrove-narberth.co.uk
WALES & THE MARCHES
PENALLY ABBEY TENBY, PEMBROKESHIRE
This grand Welsh mansion exudes bonhomie, making you instantly relax and feel at home. Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain brought the lovely, late 18thcentury Gothic house, with its romantic ogeeheaded doors and windows, stunningly back to life in 2014. You enter a spacious hallway with wood-burning stove; there follows a bar opening onto a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room filled with locally collected antiques. Here, you’ll dine on delicious, local and homegrown produce, dished up in imaginative ways – try the Welsh lamb with broad beans and crushed Pembrokeshire potatoes. Melanie’s aesthetic – handily, she’s an interior designer – mixes the elegant and the traditional with judiciously stylish touches. The result? All 12 bedrooms are equally charming: restful and comfortable spaces, most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to spend time. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do in the area, which sums up the charms of this exceptional, friendly hotel and its lovely gardens. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com
THE RIVERSIDE INN, AYMESTREY
PHOTOS: JACK ABBOTT
PHOTOS: OWEN HOWELLS
LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE
Set on the southern edge of the Mortimer Forest, this black-and-white-timbered, 16thcentury inn sits prettily on the banks of the river Lugg, where guests sip local real ales and cider, contentedly watching the water meander slowly under the ancient bridge. The six original bedrooms are homely, clean and very comfortable – we adore the three fabulous garden rooms, beautifully designed inside and out, with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own deck overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. The Riverside is ideally located for walkers on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail, as well as being perfectly positioned for fishing and shooting parties. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef patron Andy Link cooks up a storm. As well as foraging for myriad ingredients, he grows 50 different fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welsh border produce. Simply the very best and always fabulous value. Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 143
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
Chris Gorman, Majestic Winter Highland, Inverness-shire. Taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 13 (AA Publishing, £26)
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SCOTLAND
The land of mountains, mist and vast, freezing lochs, Scotland rewards those who are brave of heart with incomparable views and a welcome like no other
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
TAKE IN THE VIEW
Ellie Smith on Scotland’s natural splendours
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Edinburgh’s Dean Village
Just a five-minute walk from the centre of Edinburgh will take you to Dean Village, a tranquil hamlet on the Water of Leith, the city’s largest river. Once a hub for the grain milling industry, the neighbourhood is now filled with picture-perfect cottages and cobbled streets, as well as the striking Well Court, recently restored with support from Edinburgh World Heritage. ewh.org.uk
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Craigievar Castle
This pink castle is the stuff of fairytales – in fact it is said to have inspired the one in Walt Disney’s Cinderella. Now owned by the National Trust for Scotland, the exterior looks much the same as when it was completed by William Forbes in the 17th century, with ornate turrets and carved stonework. Inside you’ll find a wide collection of artefacts and art. nts.org.uk
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Glencoe
You may have marvelled at its dramatic scenery in the Skyfall or Harry Potter films, and Glencoe is even more magical in real life. South of Fort William, the region is a paradise for walkers, with an impressive collection of waterfalls, rivers and mountains to explore, including the pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mór, which is viewed locally as the guardian at the entrance to the glen. visitscotland.com
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Logan Botanic Garden
Thanks to its prime location on the southwestern tip of Scotland, Logan Botanic Garden is warmed by the Gulf Stream, allowing exotic plants from all over the world to thrive there. Stroll through palm trees and groves of eucalyptus, marvel at the Brazilian giant rhubarb and climb to the garden’s highest point to enjoy spectacular views across the Rhins of Galloway Hills and beyond. rbge.org.uk
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The Highlands are filled with unspoilt beaches, one of the most picturesque being Sandwood Bay in Kinlochbervie. Follow the 4.5-mile path from Blairmore to discover nearly a mile and a half of pink-hued sand, flanked by cliffs and backed by dunes. At the southern end stands the imposing sea stack Am Buachaille, and you can see out towards the Isle of Lewis. walkhighlands.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY;
Sandwood Bay
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The Pineapple
This unique fruit-shaped building in Airth was built in 1761 as a summer house for the Earl of Dunmore. At that time, pineapples were among Scotland’s most exotic foods, and served as a symbol of power and wealth. Now owned by the National Trust for Scotland, the grounds are a haven for wildlife, particularly around the former curling pond. nts.org.uk
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Loch Fyne
Head west to see Scotland’s longest sea loch, which stretches 40 miles inland from the Sound of Bute, reaching from the Argyll mountains to the sea north of Arran. Along its coastline you’ll find rocky shores and quaint fishing villages, plus the original Loch Fyne Oyster Bar & Restaurant, which serves up fresh seafood and overlooks the water. lochfyne.com
Isle of Barra
The airport on the Isle of Barra is the only one in the world whose schedule is dependent on tides, since planes land directly on the beach. Despite being a tiny island – just five miles by eight – there’s plenty to see, including Kisimul Castle, perched on a rocky outcrop in the bay. visitouterhebrides.co.uk
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Ullapool
Scotland’s 500-mile North Coast 500 road trip route is bursting with beauty spots, one being the fishing village of Ullapool. Nestled on the shores of Loch Broom, it’s the perfect seaside town, characterised by a row of whitewashed cottages dotted along the harbour. There are plenty of outdoor activities to do here, such as climbing Ullapool Hill, which will reward you with views across the loch. northcoast500.com
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The Fairy Glen on Skye
A magical undercurrent flows through the dramatic landscapes of Skye – particularly so at the Fairy Glen, a cornucopia of natural rock formations, cone-shaped hills, waterfalls and ponds contained within one small area. Mythical creatures wouldn’t look out of place here – and some believe faeries reside in its crevices – but geologists say the landscape was formed by a series of landslips. isleofskye.com
PHOTOS: GETTY;
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
The Balmoral is Sir Rocco Forte’s beloved five-star property at the heart of Edinburgh, originally built in 1902 in impressive Scottish baronial style as a landmark for Waverley station. One of the world’s great railway hotels, The Balmoral’s clock is cleverly set three minutes fast to ensure guests never miss their trains. Exuding a timeless elegance, the bedrooms have been transformed by Olga Polizzi, deputy chairman and director of design for Forte Hotels. Highlights include the large signature suites: the Scone & Crombie and the Glamis. With up to three bedrooms and spacious living rooms, they make the ultimate Edinburgh base for couples and families. The Balmoral’s two restaurants offer a choice of fine or brasserie dining: Number One features a Michelin-starred menu celebrating Scottish produce, while Brasserie Prince marries the best of Scottish ingredients with fine French cooking. Afternoon tea is served under the dome of splendid Palm Court, while the noted whisky bar, Scotch, is a must for anyone partial to a dram from the 500-strong collection. Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1315 562414; roccofortehotels.com
THE DUNSTANE HOUSES EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
Positioned at the gates of Edinburgh’s vibrant West End, The Dunstane Houses are a pair of handsome Victorian villas that have been transformed into a single, stylish family-run boutique hotel. Infused with the spirit and romance of Orkney, where the owners’ roots lie, the interior blends the elegance of the Scottish capital’s Old Town with vintage touches, contemporary flair and well-chosen art. The 35 bedrooms, spread between Dunstane House and Hampton House, are all different. Yours might have bold wallpaper and fabrics, a theatrical headboard, classic four-poster bed, in-room Victorian roll-top or fabulous Fired Earth bathroom. And at the heart of this unique bolthole the elegantly laid-back Ba’ Bar provides all-day dining from a seasonally changing modern Scottish menu, and there’s an impressive selection of premium craft spirits to sample. The whisky cabinet is a connoisseur’s treasure trove of vintage single malts and blends. It’s really no wonder that it won the best guest hotel experience in Scotland at the prestigious Visit Scotland Thistle Awards last year. Doubles from £184 +44 (0)131 337 6169; thedunstane.com 148 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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SCOTLAND
KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE
Skye is one of the most spectacular places on earth and Kinloch sits in one of its most beautiful parts, the shores of Loch na Dal. Fittingly, given its history as a hunting lodge, it offers the services of its own ghillie, Mitchell Partridge, for stalking, fishing, foraging and wilderness walks – he’s very knowledgeable and known for providing great ‘craic’. Foodies flock here. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey. Although no longer living here, their reputation for the best Highland hospitality continues with their charming daughter, Isabella, at the helm and inspirational head chef, Jordan Webb in the kitchen. Unfussy seasonal cooking has always been the hallmark here, with seared north Skye venison and Broadford chard or fillet of Lochalsh sea trout with fresh peas. Inside there’s a welcoming mix of the well-bred and unpretentious, with antiques, family portraits and a cosy whisky bar for a nightcap before heading to bed in one of the attractive, seriously comfortable rooms. Kinloch is somewhere to relax and recharge, and always almost impossible to leave. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk
THE MACHRIE ISLE OF ISLAY, ARGYLL
What a spectacular setting, right by the dunes on the Isle of Islay. The Machrie was given a top-to-toe refresh three years ago and now has 47 clean-lined contemporary rooms, suites and lodges (the latter come with an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area – perfect for those who prefer to self-cater). There’s a newly renovated championship golf course designed by former European Ryder Cup vice captain D J Russell, ebikes for exploring and scenic coastal pathways on the doorstep that lead to secluded beaches or the hills. The hotel can also arrange fishing trips and guided sea kayaking to spot seals, puffins and other wildlife. When it comes to downtime, there are three lovely lounges to relax in, plus the PureGray spa. Start the evening with a fine Islay malt whisky on the terrace of the 18 Restaurant & Bar – it has beautiful panoramic views across the green to the Atlantic Ocean – before tucking into delicious comfort food classics such as the unmissable double-baked Isle of Mull cheddar cheese soufflé and Islay Ale beef, mushroom and bacon pie. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1496 302310; campbellgrayhotels.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 149
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE PIERHOUSE PORT APPIN, ARGYLL
Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, The Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. A relaxed hotel, it’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world and for sampling the very best of its local produce. The 12 bedrooms include several with loch views, which look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Head chef Michael Leathley is in charge of the Michelinrecognised and AA Rosette-awarded seafood restaurant, where he calls his cooking ‘bringing the outside in’ – in other words, the freshest west-coast seafood such as creelcaught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters, plus Scottish meat, game and vegetables, all prepared and cooked using classic, simple techniques. There is a lounge with a woodburning stove, a Finnish sauna for relaxing after a day spent hiking or biking, and The Ferry Bar (named after the foot passenger ferry from Port Appin that has been running since 1750) where you’ll find an impressive selection of Scottish gins and more than 100 types of malt whisky to sample. Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk
SCHLOSS ROXBURGHE KELSO, ROXBURGHSHIRE
A schloss in Scotland? Yes indeed: the Roxburghe Hotel, on a 300-acre estate in the Scottish Borders, was formerly owned by the Duke of Roxburghe and has hosted many aristocratic guests, including, reputedly, Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. It now mixes traditional Scottish hospitality with German innovation and sky-high standards. Re-opened in June 2019 after an extensive refurbishment by its new owners, the hotel has never looked better. Interiors by Kitzig Interior Design combine classic and contemporary with a mix of materials: Scottish patterns and colours, oak and natural stone. The 20 bedrooms are individually decorated and estate-to-plate ingredients focus on modern Scottish dishes with a French twist in the Sunlaws restaurant. The country sporting and leisure facilities on the hotel’s estate are second to none, from fishing to the 18-hole championship golf course. Future developments include a separate extension scheduled for completion in 2022, consisting of 58 additional rooms, a new restaurant, state-of-the-art conference and banqueting facilities, and a 600 sq/m spa area with a heated outdoor pool. Doubles from £235 + 44 (0)1573 450331; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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SCOTLAND
THE THREE CHIMNEYS COLBOST, ISLE OF SKYE
Clued-up foodies have been flocking to this renowned three AA Rosette restaurant with rooms on the shores of Loch Dunvegan for more than 35 years, attracted by its ethos of showcasing Scotland’s bountiful natural larder. Though it’s now part of Gordon Campbell Gray’s Wee Hotel Company (alongside The Pierhouse, opposite), nothing has really changed on the food front, with virtually all ingredients sourced from within a few miles, as well as the wider Scottish Highlands: head chef Scott Davies collects fresh lobster, crab and langoustines from the fishermen’s boats in Dunvegan’s harbour; Soay lamb and pork from Iron Age pigs come from Orbost Farm, while nearby Eaglescreek Croft’s heritage potatoes and purple kale goes straight from plot to plate in the same day. For those who fancy a frontrow seat watching the chefs in action, there’s also the Kitchen Table (bookable for groups of two to eight), where you can order a ‘surprise’ menu to try. Next door, the House Over-By has six calming, beautiful rooms to choose from, all with luxury pampering products in the bathrooms. It really is the ideal place to stay after a truly unforgettable dinner. Doubles from £365 +44 (0)1470 511258; threechimneys.co.uk
THE TORRIDON TORRIDON, WESTER ROSS
A former and still very grand shooting lodge, The Torridon has one of the Highlands’ most stunning locations. It stands on a beautiful sea loch in 58 acres of parkland, with breathtaking views all around. The bedrooms in the main hotel blend its Scottish heritage with Victorianera features while those in The Stables are simple and cosy (there’s also The Boathouse, a self-catering waterside retreat rentable by the week). The 1887 restaurant was redesigned last year; now guests can tuck into chef Paul Green’s field-to-fork delights in the pine panelled dining room or conservatory. A more casual option is Bo & Muc, housed in what was once the estate’s old buttery and dairy, for dishes such as rump of Elgin lamb and beer battered fish. At both, menus evolve with the seasons, with much of the meat and vegetables coming from the onsite farm and kitchen garden. After dinner, head for the whisky bar, which is stocked with more than 350 malts. There are many outdoor activities on the doorstep too, from cycling and bird watching to kayaking and hiking. Doubles from £305 +44 (0)1445 791242; thetorridon.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 151
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
From the windswept beaches to the emerald hills, Ireland and Northern Ireland are as rich as they are unforgettable. And with myths and legends woven into every step, you won’t fail to be enchanted
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PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Cobh Harbour, County Cork
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
TAKE IN THE VIEW
Carina Murphy finds entrancing views and magical mythology across the Irish Sea
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The Dark Hedges
This atmospheric avenue of beech trees in Northern Ireland’s County Antrim was first planted by the Stuart family to impress approaching visitors. The dark tunnel effect created by overhanging branches worked so well it was picked up by modern TV royalty and used as a Game of Thrones location. Visit Gracehill House at dusk and soak up the spooky shadows. darkhedgesestate.com
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Keem Bay
Tucked between the cliffs of Benmore and Croaghuan mountain in Ireland’s County Mayo, this unspoilt beach is Achill Island’s best-kept secret. Other than the old coastguard station the turquoise waves and golden sands are completely untouched, making them the perfect spot to relax. Take the winding coastal road from Dooagh village or, for breathtaking views, the milelong cliff walk from Achill Head. visitachill.com
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Carrauntoohil
‘The rooftop of Ireland’, Carrauntoohil is the country’s highest mountain. From the very top there are panoramic views of the MacGillycuddy Reeks, but less confident climbers can still enjoy great views from lower down. Set out from Cronin’s Yard through the picturesque valley of Hag’s Glen. Once you’ve crossed the Gaddagh River using giant stepping stones, it’s a steep climb up Devil’s Ladder to the summit. kerryclimbing.ie
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Kylemore Abbey
Rising above Pollacapall Lough, Kylemore Abbey may be the most beautiful castle in Ireland. Benedictine nuns still live inside, but you can explore the Victorian walled gardens and elegant period outbuildings at any time. Wander through lush woodland to discover idyllic lakeside walks, make a wish at the Giant’s Ironing Stone, then meet the pigs and ponies at the Abbey’s small farm. kylemoreabbey.com
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Carrick-a-rede
Around the corner from Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland’s County Antrim is the tiny island of Carrick-a-rede. This stretch of coast is famous for its rugged beauty and the rope bridge linking the mainland to the island is unforgettable. First built by fishermen over 300 years ago, it offers spectacular views of caves, cliffs and – on a clear day – Scotland. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Mount Stewart
Once the Marquis of Londonderry’s country home, this neoclassical house in Northern Ireland’s County Down has almost a thousand acres of landscaped grounds filled with plants from around the world. Don’t miss the Spanish and Italian gardens teeming with exotic flowers, or the menagerie of cement animals on the Dodo Terrace. nationaltrust.org.uk
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Hook Lighthouse
At the southernmost tip of County Wexford in Ireland you’ll find Hook Lighthouse with its signature blackand-white stripes. Voted number one lighthouse in the world by Lonely Planet, this landmark has been guiding ships into harbour for over 800 years. Climb up the medieval tower to enjoy panoramic ocean views over the Atlantic waves. hookheritage.ie
Killarney National Park
However you like to travel, from kayak to bike to horse-and-cart, there’s a way for everyone to experience Ireland’s Killarney National Park. Start at Killarney House for its new exhibition and beautiful gardens, before heading out to discover the 20-metre Torc Waterfall and stunning Ross Island. Look out for native red deer roaming the lake shores. killarneynationalpark.ie
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Lough Derg
For almost a thousand years pilgrims have travelled to Lough Derg in Ireland’s Donegal, where legend has it St Patrick received a vision of Christ. Today you can organise a retreat to the ancient monastery on Station Island, enjoy the magnificent views by wandering along the lake shore, or do a spot of fishing in the trout-stocked waters. loughderg.org
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Inishmore Island
Stunning Inishmore (or Inis Mór) in the Aran Islands off the west coast of County Galway is home to Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort steeped in Irish mythology. There are bikes to rent when you step off the ferry and a scenic cycle path that circles the whole island via panoramic viewpoints, hidden beaches, and a strange natural rock formation know as ‘the Serpent’s Lair’. aranisland.info 8
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS
One of Ireland’s most important neoclassical houses, Ballyfin stands in its own 614-acre demesne, which includes a lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views. A Downton-esque knot of staff await guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school, yet warm and friendly – Richard E Grant once quipped that it is ‘like stepping back in time, without the inconvenience of no electricity’. The reception rooms are filled with superb antiques and paintings, and there’s the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and treatment rooms. The 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country house fashion. There is also a beautiful private Gardener’s Cottage available to rent. As for the food, with the highly regarded Sam Moody at the helm – he won a Michelin star for the Bath Priory – it effortlessly lives up to the surroundings. Standards are sky high at Ballyfin, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does: this is one of Europe’s great hotels. Doubles from €580 +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com
BALLYVOLANE HOUSE CASTLELYONS, COUNTY CORK
PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
Imagine a grand, Italianate, Irish Georgian country house; gorgeous but lived-in and run as a guest house by its old-school owners since the mid-1980s. Imagine their son growing up there, then leaving to work at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and later as general manager at Babington House. Imagine him returning home to take over the reins and run the hotel his way. You are imagining Ballyvolane. Filled with antiques, oozing atmosphere, it’s also – thanks to deft touches from Justin Green and his wife Jenny – somewhere that’s cool and stylish too. It’s that hard-to-achieve ideal: a place where guests can unwind but feel glamorous and special too. There are Persian rugs, antiques, quirky retro tables, roaring fires and a lavishly stocked honesty bar, with Justin’s own delicious gin, Bertha’s Revenge, which is made from local cows’ milk, water from the hotel’s well and foraged botanicals, taking pride of place. The bedrooms are lovely, and the food – eaten communally unless you specify otherwise (you won’t) – delicious. Breakfast is whenever you want. There’s glamping too, in the lovely gardens, and fishing. Doubles from €200 +353 (0)25 36349; ballyvolanehouse.ie 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND
CULLODEN ESTATE & SPA BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND
Standing high on the slopes of the Holywood Hills, overlooking Belfast Lough and the County Antrim Coastline, the Culloden Estate & Spa was once a former palace for the Bishops of Down. All rooms and suites are palatial and elegant, furnished with deeply comfortable cloud beds; Garden Rooms are decorated with a rich, opulent palette while most Estate Rooms have high ceilings and original cornicing. The fine dining Vespers restaurant is world class, serving up modern Irish dishes such as braised Mourne lamb rump and Armagh apple crème brulee. Guests can also enjoy a Bridgerton-inspired afternoon tea in the Lough Bar and drink pints of Guinness in Cultra Inn, a traditional pub and bistro with a roaring log fire in winter and stunning estate views. There are bicycles to explore the 12 acres of secluded gardens and woodland, and the renovated ESPA Spa that has a vitality pool, tylarium and sauna (signature treatments include the Celtic Dream, a blissful full body ritual that uses Irish botanicals). A relaxing and scenic rural retreat just ten minutes’ drive from Belfast city centre. Doubles from £300 +44 (0)28 9042 1066; hastingshotels.com
CURRAREVAGH HOUSE
PHOTOS: JACK HARDY
LOUGH CORRIB, COUNTY GALWAY
‘Things have always stayed the same here,’ says Henry Hodgson, the fifth generation to run the family home as a guest house, ‘it would be rude to change them now.’ And that’s the joy of this Victorian country house, which first welcomed paying guests in 1890 as a sporting lodge. Beautifully set on the shores of Lough Corrib, with huge sash windows and original shutters, the house was built in 1842, though the family has owned the estate since the 18th century. Inside, you are transported to a calmer, more dignified time (wifi is the only modern concession), where a gong heralds dinner and the breakfast coffee is served in original Fifties glass Cona siphons, warmed by methylated spirit burners. Henry is charming, funny and totally at ease; his wife Lucy (they have three young daughters) is a marvellous cook and dinner is always delicious. You feel completely relaxed: even more so with the addition of the new boathouse sauna, sitting right at the water’s edge. What more could you possibly want? Room keys? ‘We don’t have them,’ says Henry, ‘your things will be perfectly safe.’ And you know, without doubt, that he speaks the truth. Doubles from €190 +353 (0)9155 2312; currarevagh.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 157
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
DROMOLAND CASTLE NEWMARKET-ON-FERGUS, COUNTY CLARE
The ancestral home of the O’Briens of Dromoland, whose lineage dates back a thousand years to Brian Boru, one of the last High Kings of Ireland, this historic castle hotel has been welcoming guests since the 16th century. As you’d expect, it’s fit for royalty, from the delightfully sumptuous bedrooms (the best suites each have a grand four-poster bed and a separate dressing room) to the finedining restaurant the Earl of Thomond, where chefs marry classical cooking techniques with the finest Irish local produce. The beauty of a stay here is that days are as relaxed or active as you wish. For those who want to take things slowly, why not spend the morning reading the papers by the fire in the antique-filled Gallery and drawing room, before booking in for pampering treatments in the spa? Meanwhile, the 450-acre estate offers country pursuits galore, including archery, clay shooting, horse riding, biking and falconry. Dromoland Lough is excellent for trout fishing, and boating, plus there’s an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool, walled gardens and nature trails to explore, and go-karting for the kids. Doubles from €390 +353 (0)6136 8144; dromoland.ie
GALGORM COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND
The River Maine flows through this lush, 163-acre parkland that is renowned for its Par-72 championship golf course and thermal spa – the first of its kind in Ireland. Only 30 minutes drive from Belfast yet a world away, it has 125 bedrooms with Rolf Benz furniture, spacious marble bathrooms and knockout views of the estate. Spend days in the spa, drifting between the riverside vitality pool and The Palm House, an ornate botanical structure set among olive trees and apple orchards in The Serenity Garden – the perfect space to kick back with a delicious aperol gin fizz cocktail (the Celtic Sauna Infusion is a must too). Or playing golf: as well as the main course, there is a fantastic academy with a 24-bay floodlit driving range and the club’s Castle Kitchen + Bar. Elsewhere, there are more than 450 varieties of gin to choose from in the Gin Library and ample choice for all tastebuds from the fine-dining, three AA Rosette River Room Restaurant to the casual Fratelli Ristorante pizzeria and the Gillies Grill with its extensive selection of local food to enjoy overlooking the stables. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)28 2588 1001; galgorm.com 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND
THE HARRISON CHAMBERS OF DISTINCTION BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND
A boutique hotel in a leafy neighbourhood on the doorstep of Belfast’s theatre and museum quarter, The Harrison Chambers of Distinction is a jewel-box labour of love created by its well-travelled owner, Belfast native Melanie Harrison. Melanie has taken a fine 19th-century merchant’s home and begun a new chapter in its tale, transforming the building into a darling hotel with 16 elegant, playful rooms that make the perfect backdrop for one’s own Belfast story. Each chamber pays homage to creatives with Belfast links, like CS Lewis and Van Morrison, with eccentric curios, antiques and quirky surprises behind each door, weaving influences past and present. Rooms at the front of the building have huge bay windows, and many have Victorian freestanding baths to luxuriate in after a long day of sightseeing. There’s also an indulgent spa offering reflexology treatments and meditation massage. All in all, it’s a bohemian bolthole packed with personality, and perfectly positioned for visiting nearby Queen’s University and the Botanic Gardens. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)2894 600123; chambersofdistinction.com
THE RABBIT HOTEL & RETREAT COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND
Fresh from an 18-month £10 million revamp, The Rabbit Hotel & Retreat is the new laidback little sister to Galgorm (see opposite). This lakeside retreat has four room types all with seriously comfy beds and Scandi-inspired style – think cane bed heads, faded Persian rugs on wooden floorboards and tassel-fringed lighting. Some Comfy rooms come with an outdoor tub in a private courtyard while a pair of Luxe rooms each has a free standing bath and views of the garden or lake. There are subtle nods to the bunny theme throughout, from the signature Jessica Rabbit rosé gin cocktail on the menu in Hunter’s Bar to the Relaxation Burrow spa which has its own beach with heated sand (perfect for a sunrise yoga session), a traditional Swedish sauna, aroma steam room, salt chamber and Roman baths. After a day spent chilling out, dress up for dinner at Rabbit Restaurant, where Italian-American influenced dishes include seafood bouillabaisse and sticky ribs for two. Located just 20-minutes from Belfast, this is the ideal city escape. Doubles from £180 +44 (0)2894 432984; rabbithotel.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 159
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
PRIVATE HOUSES
Castle or cottage? Sleek barn conversion or stately home? Whatever you’re craving, escape the crowds at one of these fabulous properties
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Candacraig in the Scottish Highlands
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
BIBURY FARM BARNS BIBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE
In 2017, fourth generation farmer George Phillips and his wife Polly set about converting five ancient stone barns on their land into a self-catering rural retreat. The result is a series of gorgeous hideaways suitable for everyone from young families to large gatherings, each combining contemporary style with rustic character: wood-beamed kitchens, open-plan living spaces with log burners and private courtyards for al fresco dining. Photographs and paintings by local artists adorn the walls; there are huge marble-effect showers and verdigris bathrooms; snugs for film nights and boot rooms for kicking off muddy wellies after walks – perhaps along the River Coln or around chocolate-box Bibury village, a ten minute walk away. The largest, The Grain Store, sleeps ten and has a large cedar hot tub; the smallest, the Cart Shed, sleeps six. The barns can be booked individually or together, and there’s a concierge service so anything from a fully stocked fridge to chef-cooked dinners can be arranged. Located between Burford and Cirencester, this is an ideal base from which to explore the Cotswolds. From £1,575 for a three-night weekend stay in a three- bedroom barn, low season +44 (0)1285 706188; biburyfarm.com
BROWNBER HALL & HOUSE BROWNBER, CUMBRIA
Nestled in the Yorkshire Dales and overlooking the Howgill Fells, Grade II-listed Brownber Hall was opened as an eight-bedroom guest house by Amanda and Peter Jaques-Walker in 2017. It was hugely successful, winning awards and charming visitors with its cosy, comfortable bedrooms, eclectic decor (cherry-picked vintage furniture, William Morris wallpaper, stained glass windows), and hands-on friendly service. Now the forward-thinking couple have changed direction, and have turned the place into an enticing self-catered private rental that sleeps up to 15. They also launched four-bedroom farmhouse Brownber House next door, too. Guests at both can expect a contactless check-in and a virtual concierge service; fridges pre-stocked with local supplies; freshly prepared picnics and home-cooked meals delivered to the doorstep, taking the hassle out of cooking after a day out hiking the fells. The properties have spacious gardens, BBQs and firepits, and come with a welcome hamper with local sourdough and cakes. Bike rentals and experiences such as horse riding and fishing can be organised, too. From £1,200 for four nights mid-week in Brownber House and £1,520 in Brownber Hall +44 (0)1539 623208; brownber.co.uk 162 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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PRIVATE HOUSES
CANDACRAIG STRATHDON, SCOTLAND
Ever wanted to live in your very own fairytale castle? Well, now’s your chance. Candacraig can be your Sleeping Beautyworthy home for the weekend, week – or however long you’d like to stay. The Scottish castle dates back to the 17th century and is immaculately preserved, with woodpanelled rooms, open fires and a choice of 12 opulent bedrooms, individually decorated and with private bathrooms. There’s also the impressive formal dining room, beautiful drawing room, and exquisite whisky library to enjoy, all helmed by Candacraig’s resident House Manager, who will look after you during your stay along with a full housekeeping and catering staff, including a private chef. Outside, there are 18 acres of private woodland and manicured lawns, plus a glorious Victorian walled garden, a woodland bonfire area and a private stretch of the River Don to cast your fishing line. It’s all set within the rugged and picturesque Cairngorms National Park, with Balmoral to the west and the Spey Valley – home to distilleries galore – to explore to the north. Available only for exclusive use +44 (0)1975 651461; candacraig.com
CLUNY CASTLE SAUCHEN, ABERDEENSHIRE
Cluny Castle is every inch the enchanting, Cinderella-esque venue you would expect to find hidden deep in the rolling hills of Aberdeenshire. Set in over 200 acres of painstakingly landscaped parkland, the castle itself dates back to the 15th century and remains a private home. However, when you choose to celebrate a special occasion – or just spend quality time with family and friends – its magnificent granite walls and turrets become exclusively yours. Relax in the delightfully decorated West Wing Apartment (which sleeps ten), the perfect base from which to explore the stunning landscapes and wonderful golden sandy beaches along the Aberdeenshire coastline. The refurbishment of eight new beautiful bedrooms on the top floor is now complete and means that up to 26 guests can be happily accommodated. All this heritage and splendour doesn’t mean seclusion; Cluny Castle is 20-minutes from Aberdeen airport, with award-winning golf courses, hill walking, mountain biking and pony trekking on its doorstep. This is country living like you’ve never seen it before. From £1,485 for three nights +44 (0)1330 833302; clunycastle.com 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 163
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE COASTAL TOWNHOUSE WHITBY, NORTH YORKSHIRE
Think bracing walks, fish and chips (try the Magpie Café) and a warm Yorkshire welcome. A stay at this super-cool fourbedroom house, overlooking the bustling harbour in Whitby, offers the best of both worlds. Just a ten-minute walk from the charming narrow, medieval streets of this fabled fishing port – don’t forgo booking Andrew Pern’s newly opened The Star Inn The Harbour, an energetic climb up the 199 steps to the Church of Saint Mary or a peek at the ruined Gothic Whitby Abbey, which was the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. You should also absolutely hop in the car and take a breathtaking tour of North Yorkshire’s stunning coastline and its epic beaches (oft overlooked), including Filey (26 miles south), which offers a seemingly endless unspoilt sandy beach. Head inland, and the North York Moors National Park is your mighty bucolic playground. After a day’s outdoor activities, return to your pin-clean cosseting home from home to clink your Slingsby gin glasses on the balcony as the sun comes down over the bobbing boats. From £135 per night. +1 (833) 483 0366; homesandvillasbymarriott.com
DUN ALUINN ABERFELDY, PERTHSHIRE
Looking for an unforgettable Highland experience? Find it at Dun Aluinn. An exquisitely stylish private house accommodating up to 18 guests across nine individually designed bedrooms, it is perched on a hill overlooking the lively town of Aberfeldy in Perthshire. The sweeping views from the five-plus acre estate encompass the River Tay and the snow-capped peak of Schiehallion. These are best taken in from the woodfired hot tub outside or from the terrace, which comes complete with a fire pit and comfortable outdoor seating. While staying you’ll be expertly looked after by Dun Aluinn’s private butler, housekeeping and concierge services, who can arrange everything from whisky tasting to salmon fishing to guided hikes. You won’t be going hungry, with delicious meals provided by nearby luxury restaurant Ballintaggart Farm, served en famille on the vast bronze and oak dining table. The super stylish Lodge at Dun Aluinn opens this summer, with four ensuite rooms overlooking a wild flower meadow. From £15,000 +44 (0)7850 857550, dunaluinn.com 164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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PRIVATE HOUSES
HOLLY HOUSE WORSTEAD ESTATE, NORFOLK
A tree-lined driveway is a suitable fanfare to the 300 acres of 16th-century estate of Worstead Park in Norfolk. With its own working farm and online farm shop, the vast swathes of its magnificent private grounds are criss-crossed with quaint footpaths and bridleways to explore on foot or horseback. In the heart of it all is eightbedroomed Holly House, a short drive from the wedding venue and the estate’s pièce de résistance. The fresh interiors nod to Worstead’s Georgian roots, along with rooms decked out in a heritage palette which lead into a spectacular walled garden, complete with its own hot tub. Whether you’d like to say your vows in a small, intimate ceremony by the lake, or dance all night in The Woodyard, their beautiful, newly restored thatched barn, those planning to tie the knot can tailor Worstead’s splendid locations to their dream setting. Embark on delightful country pursuits, cycle around the parkland, or simply reconnect with your loved ones in this beautiful place. Make sure to sample the estate’s divine purebred Worstead Wagyu beef before you leave. Three-night minimum booking from £2,500 +44 (0)1692 536226; worsteadestate.com
HONEYBRIDGE ESTATE SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK, SUSSEX
Honeybridge Estate has been under private family ownership for over 40 years and is now open to discerning travellers to create their own memories. With 17 acres of blissfully secluded grounds, it overlooks the South Downs National Park boasting a fishing lake, all-weather tennis court, cricket pitch, zipwire, treehouse and a games room. The House calls to mind a Bridgerton set with an eclectic art collection spanning four centuries. Its interiors are country house-chic and the indoor spa features a breath-taking 14’ infinity pool, jacuzzi and sauna. The rose-clad wood-beamed Cottage features an inglenook fireplace and an abundance of character. The contemporary 16th-century Barn is nestled among the trees complete with a private garden hot tub. Honeybridge Estate is perfect for an extended family holiday or weekend getaway. Luxuries such as massages, newspaper deliveries and fishing coaching, guarantee a wonderful stay. The Estate offers a blend of self-catering and luxury hotel services. Just what the doctor ordered. Two nights from £1000 in The Cottage; £1,500 in The Barn; £4,000 in The House +44 (0)1403 597097; honeybridgeestate.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 165
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
THE MALTHOUSE KINGSBRIDGE
The coastal light simply floods into this recently converted 19th-century former brewery, located at the very top of the Salcombe estuary in south Devon. There’s space for four across the two modern, pared-back double rooms, plus two children will be happily ensconced in the colourful mezzanine floor. It is a delightful mix of airy spaces and sleek design. At the heart of the private house rental is the purpose-built courtyard, accessed through tall French windows that can be pulled right back to create an amazing indoor-outdoor space that’s perfect for entertaining. Here, you can serve up a long summer lunch, cooked in the modern kitchen that’s equipped with an electric Neff oven, gas hob and dishwasher. Heading to the beach? The Malthouse is just a 10-minute drive from the region’s best surfing beach, Bantham, plus familyfriendly Bigbury and wilder Mothecombe. There’s lots to see and do in Kingsbridge – pick up pasties from Duke Street Deli or kit out your home with homewares from the chic General Store. Entire property from £805 malthou.se
PARK LODGE ABBOTS BROMLEY, STAFFORDSHIRE
An elegant Grade II-listed hunting lodge that originally formed part of the grand estate of neighbouring Blithfield Hall, Park Lodge has a sporting history dating back to the early 19th century. It’s now part of the Bagots Park Estate, which offers pheasant and partridge shooting as well as simulated clay shooting days. The lodge is the ideal location for your sporting week or countryside weekend. Tucked away down a secluded, two-mile-long private drive, the eight-bedroom house (which sleeps up to 15) was built in Tudor-Gothic style and boasts authentic features like the wood-panelled reception hall, original shutters and open fires. It’s all nestled within the romantic, rolling vistas of the Staffordshire countryside, with two further ensuite rooms in the nearby coach house and an adjacent paddock which is perfect for a wedding or other big celebration. And you can be sure of the most personalised service possible: the lodge and its grounds are family-owned, with options of self-catering and a private chef. A stay you certainly won’t forget in a hurry. From £2,000 per week +44 (0)7795 275098; parklodgeweddings.co.uk 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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PRIVATE HOUSES
RUTLAND RETREATS OAKHAM, RUTLAND
Hidden among nature within a green and leafy gated estate are Rutland Retreats’ stunning, eco-built timber- and cedar-clad two and three-bedroom cottages. With log burners, sedum roofs and smart finishes, the Retreats are ideal staycation accommodation for families. Each one has open plan living and dining spaces, master bedrooms with French doors that open onto the garden and a patio – perfect for sunlit morning coffee. Dine out at the adjacent Barnsdale Lodge Hotel (p108), where fresh, locally sourced produce goes into the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, cooked by Executive Chef, David Bukowicki. The Retreats are run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for their quality and location, represent superb value for money. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors. Thanks to its location so close to Rutland Water, you are likely to see red kite, deer and partridge. This delightful country refuge offers peace, comfort and an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, riding, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county. Doubles from £375 for a three-night stay +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk
TWO BARE FEET WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE
Hannah McIntyre, the owner of this quirkily designed and utterly unique house, has a knack for finding properties that feel a little lost and turning them into modern hospitality spaces. Two Bare Feet was an office before Hannah beautifully refurbished it with her eye for splashes of colour amid serene spaces, and respect for the building’s original charm. Now a state-of-the-art self-catered property, it makes a perfect base for exploring Winchester’s picturesque cathedral city. Hire the whole place and make use of the excellently equipped kitchen for a family weekend away, or book one of the three individually designed, fresh and contemporary duplex-style bedrooms, with snazzy en suites, as an unrivaled base for a work trip. While you’ll be left to your own devices, expect to find hotel-style luxury touches such as Egyptian cotton sheets and fluffy white towels. Eggs and bread are included, and there is a brilliant breakfast honesty tray for any extra morning nibbles. As comfortable as it is convenient. Doubles from £85 +44 (0)7730 510663; twobarefeetwinchester.co.uk 2021/22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 167
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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS
Index 11 Cadogan Gardens
D 84
A The Alice Hawthorn Artist Residence Brighton Artist Residence Oxford Artist Residence Penzance Artist Residence Pimlico Askham Hall Athenaeum Hotel Augill Castle
126 70 70 36 84 126
The Dabbling Duck The Double Red Duke Dromoland Castle Dun Aluinn The Duncombe Arms The Dunstane Houses
I
117 158 164 128 148
61 49 99 108
127
F B Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballyvolane House The Balmoral The Bank House Barnsdale Lodge Hotel The Bath Arms Batty Langley’s The Bear at Crickhowell The Beaumont Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms The Bell Inn, Langford Belmond Cadogan Hotel Bibury Farm Barns Blakeney Hotel Bodysgallen Hall & Spa Broad Street Townhouse Brocco on the Park Brown’s Hotel Brownber Hall & House Buxton Crescent
71 156 156 148 116
73 109 99 141 129 61 37
108 48 85 140 86 71 48 98 86 162 116 140 49 127 87
G Galgorm The Gallivant The George & Dragon The Gin Trap Inn Gliffaes Hotel The Goring Grantley Hall Gravetye Manor The Grove of Narberth The Grove, Hertfordshire The Gurnard’s Head
158 74 118 142 88 130 74 142 75
163 36 60 37 141 72 60 72 163 164 117 87 73 157 157
Langar Hall The Langford Inn Lime Tree Hotel Lime Wood Linthwaite House Lucknam Park The Lygon Arms Lympstone Manor Hotel
110 50 89 62 131 51 100 39
M
The Machrie Hotel Malthouse The Manor at Sway The Mayfair Townhouse The Methuen Arms Middlethorpe Hall & Spa Middleton Lodge The Mitre The Montague Moonfleet Manor Moor Hall
149 166 63 90 51 132 132 77 63 52 133
N
The Nare New Park Manor No 131 No 38 The Park North House
40 64 101 101 64
159 133 54 54 91 142 91 119 134 92 134 55 79 167
S Salcombe Harbour Hotel & Spa SCHLOSS Roxburghe Seafood Restaurant Seaham Hall Spread Eagle St Pancras Renaissance Hotel Storrs Hall Strand Palace The Sun Inn Dedham The Swan
42 150 43 135 79 92 135 93 120 102
T The Talbot Inn Thornbury Castle The Three Chimneys The Torridon The Trafalgar St James Two Bare Feet
55 102 151 151 93 167
U
O
H Candacraig Carbis Bay Hotel Careys Manor The Cary Arms & Spa Castle House The Cat Inn Chewton Glen Cliveden Cluny Castle The Coastal Townhouse Congham Hall Hotel The Corinthia The Crab & Lobster Culloden Estate & Spa Currarevagh House
100 149
The Rabbit Hotel Raithwaite The Rectory at Crudwell Red Lion Freehouse The Ritz The Riverside Inn Aymestrey The Rookery The Rose & Crown, Snettisham The Rose & Crown Romaldkirk Rosewood Rothay Manor The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa The Royal OakYattendon Rutland Retreats
38
128
The Halfway Bridge Hambleton Hall The Hare & Hounds The Hari The Harper The Harrison, Belfast Hart’s Hotel Hartwell House & Spa Hazlitt’s Headlam Hall Heckfield Place Holly House Homewood Honey Bridge Estate The Horse & Groom Hotel Endsleigh Hotel Meudon
The Kingham Plough Kinloch Lodge
129
162
C
K L
85
Fairmont Windsor Park The Falcon Feldon Valley The Felin Fach Griffin Feversham Arms Hotel Four Seasons Hampshire Fowey Hall
R 119
98
E East End Arms The Eastbury Hotel & Spa Ellenborough Park The Elms
The Ickworth
75
Ockenden Manor Old Coastguard One Aldwych
77 40 90
Una St Ives University Arms
43 120
109 130 88 118 159 110 76 89 131 62 165 50 165 76 38 39
V
P
Park Lodge The Pavilion Arms The Peacock at Rowsley Penally Abbey The Pheasant Inn The Pierhouse Hotel The Pig at Bridge Place The Pig at Combe The Pig at Harlyn Bay The Pig in The Wall The Pig Near Bath The Pig On The Beach The Pig, Brockenhurst Polurrian on the Lizard
166 52 111 143 78 150 78 41 41 65 53 53 65 42
The Victoria Inn
121
W The Wheatsheaf Inn The White House Wildhive Callow Hall Woolley Grange
103 121 111 103
168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2021/22
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