Great British & Irish Hotels - 2022/23

A LIFE IN BALANCE

£12.99

200 PERFECT PLACES TO STAY

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Contents 96 89 FEATURES 10

THE NEW COUNTRY HOUSE RULES Fiona Duncan is excited that stuffy is out, relaxed is in, and that treehouses are definitely de rigeur

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PAMPERING AND THE POOCH Our four-legged friends are shown the royal treatment at these hotels, says Emma Love

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IF THESE WALLS COULD TALK It’s only a matter of time before NFT artworks grace the swishiest of hotel walls, argues Fiona McKenzie Johnston

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GOLDEN TOUCH Hotel interiors are getting seriously playful thanks to a clutch of imaginative female designers, says Emma J Page

DIRECTORY 44

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY THE WEST COUNTRY

54 64

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT THE HOME COUNTIES

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Goring; Chesterton Windmill

by Philip George for Landscape Photographer of the Year; The Rectory at Crudwell; dinner at The Pig in the South Downs; The Portobello Hotel

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Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire

Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Hertfordshire / Kent / Sussex / Surrey

80 96

LONDON THE COTSWOLDS Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire

106 MID COUNTRY Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands

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EAST ANGLIA

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THE NORTH

ON THE COVER Ballynahinch Castle, p158

Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire

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WALES & THE MARCHES

146 154 162 168

SCOTLAND IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND PRIVATE HOUSES INDEX

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LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in Great British & Irish Hotels is taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30). The annual competition showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. For more details visit lpoty.co.uk

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Recycled 18ct Gold and Diamonds 41 Cadogan Gardens 1 South Molton Street Harrods | Liber t y | Har vey Nichols 0800 138 1659

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS FROM TOP: The Pierhouse Hotel; Rosewood London; Penally Abbey; Chewton Glen

Editor’s LETTER

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In the three decades that I have been lucky enough to observe and write about British hotels, I have never witnessed a period so fraught with stress and uncertainty as the last two years. It seems unthinkable that, in the 21st century, hotels, restaurants, shops, daily life had to close down in order to protect the population.

Who knew, in the midst of the pandemic, what the future would bring when our beloved hotels were shuttered? No one knew when the nightmare would end, but thank God it now has, and hotels, restaurants, shops, life are back. Covid is still with us, but we are in charge, not the virus. Hotels – at any rate, the ones we admire – continue to put sensible precautions and advanced cleanliness to the fore but they are once again the wonderful, warm, enveloping, hospitable places that they have always been.

So, here we proudly present the ninth edition of our hotel guide. Once again, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to writers Emma Love and Harriet Compston and to the entire talented team at Country & Town House.

Read our features this year and you’ll see that British hotels aren’t just back, but surging forward: constantly changing, ever innovative, always looking to improve and to answer the changing demands of guests. My feature looks at some of the current trends among country house hotels (p10), while Fiona McKenzie Johnston examines the extraordinary symbiosis between hotels and modern art (p18) and Emma J Page celebrates the clutch of talented female designers who are creating gorgeous new places to stay (p23). And – perhaps most topical of all – with dog ownership soaring during lockdown, Emma Love shines a spotlight on our most pooch-friendly hotels (p15).

Our introductions to each region are full of in-the-know tips and secrets on what to do and where to visit (especially if you want to be a little bit more conscious of what we do and where we go), the evocative images that represent the regions of the British Isles are the work of the impressive winners of the Landscape Photography of the Year Awards. We also include, as ever, a useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or family.

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COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by Precision Colour Printing Ltd, Telford. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2022 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

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THE NEW COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL RULES

While it may be all about getting back to nature, treehouses and informal dining, country house hotels are still the go-to for utterly spoiling experiences and so they should be, says FIONA DUNCAN

W

here are we at? This is a hotel guide that showcases British hotels in all their varied forms, from quiet private homes that welcome paying guests, to city centre grande dame establishments that have been plying their trade for decades, even hundreds of years. Of course, every type of hotel evolves and adapts with the times and guesthouses and grande dames are no exception, but it’s the spoiling country house hotel – of which we have many fine examples in these pages – that most accurately reflects our changing tastes and requirements as guests. When we look at them – at how existing ones are altering to keep pace with the times and how new ones are choosing to present themselves, we can see clearly the way that this muchloved genre, born shortly after the Second World War (Sharrow Bay on Ullswater, now firmly closed, is credited with being the first) is evolving with the 21st century. Here are some discernible trends.

The Pigs started it; Chewton Glen gave it luxury status; now the grounds of country house hotels are bristling with quirky bedrooms: huts, hives, wagons, boathouses, treehouses – you name it, you can sleep in it. New hotel group Wildhive, for example, is intent on creating a characterful collection of hotels ‘in the wild’, which will feature cabins, pigsties, treehouses and earth dens in the grounds. ‘And each hotel will have a working beehive and a focus on nature,’ announced owners Ed Burrows and Charles Randall.

True to their word, their first offering, Callow Hall in Derbyshire, has just produced its first pots of honey

PHOTOS: JAMES ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHY

I WANT TO STAY IN A TREE, PLEASE

FROM TOP RIGHT: The Plumicorn restaurant at The Tawny; a waterfront Boathouse room at the same hotel; the handsome Wildhive at Callow Hall

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PHOTOS: JAMES ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHY

and you can bed down in your very own, very comfy and very charming wooden ‘hive’ in the woods. The only trouble is, they’ve made the main house, designed by Isabella Worsley, so absolutely gorgeous that not every guest wants to get in a golf cart after dinner and climb up a muddy track to their rustic sleeping quarters. Is it a passing fad, the country-house-hotel-with-quirky/rustic-accommodation, or here to stay? The Tawny, opened last year in Staffordshire, has taken the trend to extremes: all bedrooms at this ‘deconstructed hotel’ are set in 70 acres of beautiful garden and grounds. There’s a central reception, restaurant and bar, but that’s it. Let’s see if more new hotels follow in their (sometimes muddy) footsteps. I think they will.

WE’RE OVER THE COTSWOLDS AND CORNWALL. ARE THERE COOL HOTELS ANYWHERE ELSE?

Yes! For many years now, I have tried in vain to persuade Londoners asking for recommendations for an indulgent weekend away to consider venturing north, or east rather than south and west. Until now, it hasn’t been hard for them to stay close to home with the vast majority of luxurious hotels that appeal – Lime Wood, Heckfield Place, Chewton Glen, the Pigs, Dormy House, The Fish and so on – concentrated within a couple of hours, at most, of London.

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FROM ABOVE: Glenmorangie House, redesigned by Russell Sage; relax in the drawing room at Grantley Hall

extraordinary new hotel by Russell Sage, who designed The Fife Arms: Glenmorangie House, a fantasy that’s all about whisky and has to be seen to be believed.

Yorkshire has its first ‘new wave’ country house hotel in Grantley Hall; I know of plans afoot in Norfolk, Northumberland and Wales, all long under-represented. Watch this space: and venture forth.

I WANT TO FEEL SPECIAL, BUT I WANT TO FEEL AT HOME, TOO

are beginning to pop up in all sorts of unexpected places – and about time too, for those places are, of course, full of beauty and interest.

We can thank, in great part, the proliferation of privately owned hotel groups for this spread, for with deep pockets thanks to hugely wealthy owners keen to diversify into hospitality, they need premises and they need to look further afield than the south of England to find them. Hence the advent of the aforementioned Callow Hall, formerly a deeply old-fashioned establishment in a quiet corner of Derbyshire, while Hector Ross of The Signet Collection (the Mitre at Hampton Court and just opened The Retreat at Elcot Park) is next branching out to Rutland, and Will Ashworth of Watergate Bay in Cornwall has opened Another Place on Ullswater in Cumbria, with further addresses to come.

There’s nowhere, now, that’s out of bounds for a cutting-edge hotel experience. Who would have thought that sleepy Bruton in Somerset would become the haunt of hipsters, with The Newt, No.1 Bruton and At the Chapel all competing for attention? Hauser & Wirth, with its cutting-edge gallery, restaurant and garden was the first to put Bruton on the must-go map and it is, of course, also responsible for making sleepy Braemar in Aberdeenshire the base for a thrilling Highland art hotel, The Fife Arms. If you go further still to the far north-east of Scotland, right on the coast, you will find another

In one sense, our country house hotels haven’t much changed in the 70 plus years that they have been in existence. Guests are still looking for an experience that combines an utterly spoiling homefrom-home with a feeling of being special and privileged. The most successful examples mix warmth and homeliness with style and a dash of glamour and that hasn’t changed; longstanding hotels like Gidleigh Park, Gravetye Manor, Lucknam Park and Hambleton Hall may have altered their decorations many times over the decades but the effect has remained the same. What is waning is the demand for fancy gadgets, complex spas and formal, complicated food. Bedrooms are havens of comfort, with no gadgets (remember trouser presses and CD players?), save a discreet digital TV and a Roberts radio; new spas are more about healing treatments, yoga and wellness than hydrotherapy pools and solariums; and food revolves around the kitchen garden, with chefs everywhere busy foraging, pickling, bottling and fermenting to healthily feed not just their guests but their staff as well (‘it’s just as important,’ says Luke Holder of Lime Wood, ‘that they eat healthily’).

There is a softness about today’s country house hotel, a gentleness that was perhaps lost in the eighties and nineties when showing off became too important. I’ve even spoken to chefs and owners who are repurposing their all-singing and dancing cookery schools to become spaces where chefs don’t teach and demonstrate but cook and eat with their guests in a far more natural, collaborative and entertaining way than before. One thing is for certain: the British country house hotel thrives as never before. n

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

PAMPERING AND THE

POOCH

PHOTOS: PETER VITALE

With dog ownership soaring through lockdown, more and more of us are looking for hotels where our fourlegged friends are welcome too, says EMMA LOVE

Hotels like the Four Seasons, Hampshire welcome dogs with open arms (and plenty of treats)

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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE, Hampshire

At the Four Seasons in Hampshire there are 500 acres of gorgeous grounds to explore – meaning early morning walks are equally fun for you and your four-legged friend. Afterwards, sit outside the Wild Carrot bar for lunch or book a table on the terrace of The Library for afternoon tea. A bed, bowl and food are provided, and the concierge can arrange dog sitting (at extra cost) on request. fourseasons.com

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THE EASTBURY, Dorset

Dogs checking into this hotel in Sherborne are greeted with a letter from the owner’s chihuahua Monty (you get sloe gin and handmade biscuits). Stay in the Victorian Garden Potting Shed suites which come with a food bowl, bed, treats and a squeaky toy. They are allowed in most shops in town (just look out for the ‘woof woof’ signs in windows) and for supper the chef will whip up a chicken and rice feast. theeastburyhotel.co.uk

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HAMBLETON HALL, Rutland

Hambleton Hall is a classic countryside getaway with 17 acres of grounds and gorgeous gardens. Enjoy the sitooterie on the south-facing terrace or, post winter walk, warm up in front of an open fire in the hall, where dogs can sit and watch the world go by. Ask in advance and the team can arrange anything from bedding and bowls to crates and cuddly toys. They can even sort out a dog sitter. hambletonhall.com

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THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN, Powys

This cosy redbricked pub with rooms near Brecon welcomes dogs as much as their owners – and for no extra charge. Canine companions can patter round the bar and sit under the table while you tuck into dishes of pork ribeye or sea bream in the dog-friendly Tack Room dining area.

A towel and a selection of tempting biscuits are provided in the rooms for dog guests, too. felinfachgriffin.co.uk

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THE HARPER, Norfolk

There are plenty of social spaces at The Harper hotel in Langham and nearly all of them are suitable for dogs, from the casual lounge, Ivy’s, with its living room style (where you can also sit down for supper) to the sun-filled courtyard and cosy bar. There are tasty treats in reception, dog beds available on request and an outdoor roll top bath, the ‘dog and boot’, for washing sandy paws after days out at Wells-next-the-Sea or Brancaster Beach. theharper.co.uk

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THE NARE, Cornwall

Perched above gorgeous Carne Beach, which is perfect for afternoon games of fetch, The Nare allows dogs in all of its rooms including the sea-facing Whittington Suites that launched last year, each with a large private balcony.

There’s a doggie dinner menu which includes the chef’s dish of the day (cold cuts), selfcatering kennels for working dogs and the South West Coastal Path that runs past the hotel for spectacular walks by the sea. narehotel.co.uk

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ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, Sussex

The brilliant location of this boutique bolthole, a two-minute walk from the seafront, makes it a shoo-in for a four-legged coastal escape. For hounds who really want to run free, the South Downs are just a short drive away. The Bigger Sea View and Below Deck rooms are dog friendly, where there will be a bed, bowl and Lily’s Kitchen treats waiting. Dogs are also welcome to join you in the buzzing café-bar, while you sip morning coffee or early evening cocktails. artistresidence.co.uk

THE LYGON ARMS, Cotswolds

Taking your canine companion to dinner is positively encouraged at The Lygon Arms, which serves up dishes such as beef steak or sausages to hungry hounds in the Russell Room lounge.

There are great walks around Broadway; afterwards, clean up at the muddy paws station in the hotel courtyard. Ask about a ‘nails and tails’ spa session too – while you have a relaxing massage, Broadway Dog Groomers will spoil your pooch with a bath and facial. lygonarmshotel.co.uk

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HEADLAM HALL, County Durham

At this country house retreat, the Mews bedrooms (ground floor, with direct outside access and a dedicated parking space) and self-catering apartment The Hideaway are both ideal for dogs and can be kitted out with a special bowl, towel and biscuit treats. Four-legged companions are also allowed in the brasserie, the main hall lounge and bar, as well as the walled garden. A few yards away is the village green for an off-lead run-around. headlamhall.co.uk

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ROSEWOOD, London

A Barbour dog bed, Lily’s Kitchen meals and a pampering session with groomer Jamie Griffen (while you nip off to the spa) are all part of the Canine Package at the Rosewood. Dogs can venture into all of the restaurants and guests are given Pearl’s Guide to London (Pearl is the hotel’s resident retriever), an edit of the capital’s dog-friendly pubs, coffee shops and parks, including Lincoln’s Inn Fields a three-minute walk away. rosewoodhotels.com n

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The Dorset Square Hotel was Kit Kemp’s very first London hotel project, and was inspired by English country houses

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IF THESE

WALLS COULD TALK

Hotels have always used art to signify their exclusivity, but when will we see one display an NFT artwork? It’s just a matter of time and taste, says FIONA MCKENZIE JOHNSTON

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n March last year, Beeple’s NFT (or non-fungible token) Everydays: The First 5000 Days sold for $69.3 million at Christie’s New York. In December, during Art Basel Miami Beach, guests at the Philippe Starck-designed SLS South Beach were able to buy NFTs directly from their rooms.

In partnership with NFT marketplace NFT BAZL, the scheme was launched with an exhibition and a party at which there was a live performance from the artist and DJ Kasseus who created artwork on the spot during an immersive sound and light show – which was also available to buy. Meanwhile the Marriott hotel loyalty programme (aka the Marriott Bonvoy) unveiled three NFTs, for which it had partnered with three digital artists, TXREK, JVY and Erick Nicolay.

Luxury hotels using art to signal their exclusivity to guests is not new; when Steve Wynn opened the Bellagio in 1998, then the most expensive hotel in the world, he decorated it with works from his own collection, featuring paintings by Monet, Vermeer and Rembrandt.

Fast-forward to now and it seems that every five-star hotel worth its salt has got a curator, or, at the very least, an art consultant. Bearing

in mind NFTs’ mercurial mark on the art world barometer, can we soon expect to see them lighting up screens in London hotels? Or serenading us as screensavers on in-room televisions, as they were at the SLS South Beach?

The answer potentially lies in the past; cast your mind back to the mid-1980s, when the perceived height of hotel-chic was an identikit Hilton or Sheraton – until Kit Kemp opened her first hotel in London, determined to do something different. ‘At the Dorset Square Hotel we wanted to create a feeling of coming into an English country house. I wanted every room to tell its own story, to have its own art on the walls.’ Kemp did this by seeking out specific types of work at auctions and commissioning craftsmen, putting every room together as a whole – and then she did it again, and again; there are now eight Firmdale Hotels in London, each entirely individual. At Ham Yard, works by the artists William Scott, Sir Terry Frost and Sandra Blow are in conversation around the lobby, while the Charlotte Street Hotel is all about the Bloomsbury Group – ‘there was nothing then that told that story, Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant were not in favour at that point in time’. (She had visits from PhD students and enthusiasts 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 19

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alike, and it rather begs the question, would we have had a Charleston revival without Kit Kemp?)

The Firmdale’s success and loyal clientele – ‘they’ll often go and try others in the group, but then return to whichever is their favourite,’ reports Kemp – has undoubtedly prompted the growing art-hotel trend, but alongside that influence is a worldwide increased appreciation of art, which has given rise to more people who will travel for art. And then there’s social media. The annual Frieze fairs have cemented London’s reputation as an art capital, and ‘people care about where they stay, and they care about what the background of their Instagram shots say about them,’ points out lifestyle consultant Michael Hennegan, who has organised some of the biggest parties in the capital over the past decade, many of them at hotels. ‘There’s a new, hyper sophisticated breed of guest; if you’ve flown in to spend a lot of money on art, you’re going to want the art in the hotel to be at least as good (if not better) as what you’re seeing in the tents.’ What’s key – for hotels – is to get it right.

Art works best everywhere ‘when it’s intrinsic to the design, rather than an afterthought,’ points out art advisor Nick Campbell of Narcissus Arts, who has put together collections for several hotels. One option is for the art advisor and the interior designer to work closely together, as at The Connaught’s new bar, the Red Room. Designed by Bryan O’Sullivan to feel like a collector’s softly decadent living room, it was curated by Paddy McKillen, co-owner of the Maybourne Hotel Group

PHOTOS: PAUL MASSEY

FROM TOP: The Donovan Bar at Brown’s is named after the famous photographer; the Ham Yard Hotel’s lobby is stuffed with artwork; Transforming Portrait Painting by Rob and Nick Carter adorns the walls of The Star in Alfriston

(which owns The Connaught) who states that ‘each piece was bought specifically with this space in mind’ including the Louise Bourgeois that hangs above the central fireplace. Or, alternatively, the interior designer and art advisor need to be one and the same, as Kemp is. (It’s why when hotels host selling exhibitions, unless they’ve got a particular gallery space – and some do – the result seldom feels as cohesive.)

Olga Polizzi has a similar approach to Kemp; witness her 2019 revamping of Brown’s. In the dining room she combined existing panelling with patterned wallpaper and eye-catching busts by modern British stone sculptor Emily Young, while in the Donovan Bar gem-coloured velvet and glass and bronze tables are a perfect foil for vast black and white prints by cult 60s photographer Terence Donovan. At her latest hotel, The Star in Alfriston, built in 1345 to accommodate monks and pilgrims en route from Battle Abbey to a shrine at Chichester Cathedral, the low-ceilinged, timber-beamed restaurant is presided over by a Transforming portrait by Rob and Nick Carter.

What’s notable is that the majority of the artists featured are British.

‘One trend that I think has been adopted almost universally is hotels taking a responsibility to support local artists in their community, whether that’s the same city or the same country,’ explains Campbell.

‘It also helps give the hotel a sense of identity and a sense of space if the art speaks to the city or country the hotel is in.’ And at Hotel Tresanton in St Mawes, Polizzi has concentrated on Cornish artists, including Barbara Hepworth. Sometimes this approach is so successful it makes the hotel a destination in itself, the gold standard being La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence with its collection of works

by Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Georges Braque and Marc Chagall, many of which were given to the hotel by the artists themselves in return for accommodation during the Second World War. While there are very few hotels anywhere in the world that have a comparable

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

PHOTOS: PAUL MASSEY

FROM ABOVE: The drawing room at The Fife Arms, featuring Femme assise dans un fauteuil by Pablo Picasso; La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France with a 1952 ceramic mosaic by Fernand Léger; All My Loving by David Spiller adorns Heckfield Place

history, in Dublin The Merrion Hotel has one of the best collections of 19th and 20th century Irish art in existence; even if you’re not staying there, you can drop in for a tour.

Ultimately, it is individuals’ collections and relationships with art that counts. The renowned gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth’s passion project, The Fife Arms in Braemar, has a truly eclectic collection comprising Picasso, Martin Creed and Man Ray, as well as a watercolour by Queen Victoria which is juxtaposed against a neon and blown glass antler chandelier by American artist Richard Jackson. Heckfield Place in Hampshire has one of the finest private collections of modern British art, thanks to its owner, Gerald Chan.

The Gunton Arms in Norfolk is owned by art dealer Ivor Braka, and while more a restaurant with rooms than a hotel per se, it’s hung with works by David Bailey, Tracey Emin and Damien Hirst.

And so it will be individuals’ tastes that determine how soon we’ll see an NFT in a British hotel. Digital art is not new – the term was first used in the 1960s when American artists Robert Rauschenberg and Robert Whitman got together with engineers Billy Klüver and Fred Waldhauer, forming a collective known as EAT (Experiments in Art and Technology). There were a series of installations and performances incorporating electronic systems, which, while not all strictly ‘digital’, laid the groundwork. In an age when people are spending more time online the rise of digital art is a natural progression, and when The London Edition launched, it commissioned a digital artwork for the lobby from Mat Collishaw. What makes NFTs unique is their being specifically foregrounded by a growing interest in the utility applications of the blockchain, which is also the foundation of cryptocurrency. They’re also new and their attractiveness is debatable (and not obvious to many). But so was everything once upon a time, including, let’s not forget, the art of several of the artists mentioned above, from Pablo Picasso to Duncan Grant. n 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 21

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Pasadena Wallpaper. Greenwich Chairs in GoGo fabric. Dawn Linen with Dash Tape on window shade.

Eden Collection: Wallpaper, Print and Woven Fabrics www.thibautdesign.com tel: 020 7737 6555

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GOLDEN TOUCH Bold colour blocking, fluid shapes, tassels and trims – hotel interiors are getting seriously playful thanks to a clutch of imaginative female designers, says EMMA J PAGE

The mural wallpaper in the dining room of Derbyshire’s Callow Hall was painted by artist Melissa White

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PHOTOS: © JULIAN BROAD

tep into the dining room at Derbyshire’s Callow Hall and you’ll find yourself face-to-face with a floor-toceiling woodland wall mural.

Painterly treescapes, a lake, craggy stones, the familiar shapes of the Peak District – all are represented here in a palette of yellows, cognacs, oranges and greens. The work of artist Melissa White, in collaboration with interior designer Isabella Worsley, is a pretty good metaphor for the current landscape in hotel design: playful, richly drawn and a little bit otherworldly.

Our desire for escapism mixed with a dash of domesticity has accelerated over the last two decades. Recently, a handful of new hotels have taken that blueprint and intensified it, combining familiar design motifs with a hint of Alice in Wonderland. And many of these schemes have been designed by women, whose studios are just as used to undertaking home renovations as they are commercial. ‘My approach to both is relatively similar and often, when commercial clients come to us, they don’t want something that feels too much like a hotel; they want to recreate the warmth and intimacy of a private home,’ reflects Nicola Harding, the eye behind London’s Beaverbrook Town House and Hampton Court’s The Mitre. ‘The difference is that with a hotel everything can be dialled up a notch or two. That’s because we tend to want them to deliver on an amplified level, to have more impact, more of a sense of wonder and adventure.’

Defined by a loosened up, relaxed sensibility, many of these hotel interiors feature the kind of details often associated with a feminine aesthetic, from tassels and trims to hand-painted lampshades. But Nicola thinks it’s less about gender and more about a desire to embrace colour,

FROM ABOVE: A Callow Hall bedroom; its designer, Isabella Worsley; Nicola Harding; one of her rooms at The Mitre

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PHOTOS: © JULIAN BROAD

drama and storytelling. ‘There’s a move in hotels towards something warmer, nurturing and more meaningful, perhaps qualities that have traditionally been associated with femininity, but hopefully now are celebrated across all genders,’ she says. ‘We’re at a point in history where society is looking for more diversity than there has ever been, and this applies to every aspect of life, interior design included.’

A sense of inclusion is something that Isabella Worsley assimilated when she worked with grande dame of hotel design Kit Kemp, known for her colourful, textured schemes across a host of hotels from Ham Yard to The Soho Hotel. ‘It’s about gathering as many ideas and influences as possible,’ she thinks. ‘Kit taught me to weave stories through colour and pattern. She also encouraged scaling up.’ That emphasis on storytelling can be seem in the woodland cabins that Isabella has recently designed at Callow Hall, which she describes as having a ‘homespun narrative’, with stencilling around doors and windows by Sussex-based decorative artist Tess Newall.

For Kit herself, there’s a strong correlation between home and hotel design in terms of welcome. ‘Prior to launching Dorset Square Hotel in the 1980s, I never liked staying in hotels,’ she says. ‘They were either of the corporate or the soggy bathroom carpet variety.

We wanted to create something entirely different; spaces that you’d be curious to explore. Anouska Hempel had done it with Blakes but there were few other females in the industry. When we designed the Charlotte Street Hotel for example, I was inspired by

its Bloomsbury setting and the artistry of Vanessa Bell.’

That colourful, off-the-cuff feel is still the benchmark for enticing hotel design. It’s something that designer Susie Atkinson embraces, whether creating the whimsical forest lodges at Lime Wood or punchy interiors for Soho House, both in the UK and abroad. ‘For me, it’s about guests being able to open the door to a room and take in the look, scent, feel and sound,’ she says. ‘I enjoy sometimes taking feminine design cues to the extreme. For example, at Soho House Berlin I used a Jean Monro floral print on a black background on chairs for an almost 1940s still life look. It felt the opposite of “twee” yet it provided a softening counterpoint to a utilitarian, ex-department store space.’

More recently, hotel design has pushed the envelope even further with interiors that riff on the natural world, appeal to our sense of wellbeing or play with clashing colours, bold silhouettes and dramatic scale. The Other House, a London residents’ club opening this spring, plays with all of those motifs and more. ‘The spirit of English eccentricity was our starting point,’ says its designer Marie Soliman.

‘We were inspired by beguiling gardens, interesting architecture and arches. So it all feels fantastical and flamboyant, yet relaxing and comforting too.’ Dotted with full-height faux orchid lights crafted from glass and brass, this is a space which playfully references the abundance of flora and fauna.

Post pandemic, connection to the natural world has become a must. At The Grosvenor in Stockbridge,

FROM ABOVE: Olga Polizzi, who recently designed The Star at Alfriston; Kit Kemp, famous for her playful use of colour; one of her suites at the Ham Yard Hotel

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

FIVE OF OUR FAVOURITE FEMALE-DESIGNED HOTELS

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THE STAR A low-key but beautifully conceived jewel in the South Downs, transformed by mother and daughter duo Olga and Alex Polizzi.

The medieval building has entered a new era thanks to an artful blend of contemporary furniture and local antiques, plus English wallpapers and fabrics by Richard Smith.

Tim Kensett, formerly of The River Café, helms the kitchen. thepolizzicollection.com

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BEAVERBROOK TOWN HOUSE Occupying two revamped London townhouses, the sister hotel of Surrey’s Beaverbrook riffs on the city’s artistic scene thanks to Nicola Harding, with 14 bedrooms named after famed theatres, from The Royal Court to The Old Vic. Head to the bar for a delightfully intimate, Great Gatsby-esque, Art Deco vibe. beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

Lottie Keith has thoughtfully redesigned the interiors and the garden to exist in harmony. ‘Sitting in the shade of an apple tree and listening to water running – that’s a moment of serenity and an instant moodbooster,’ she says. ‘Nature actually has a very vibrant colour palette and so our interiors reflect that too, with their oranges, blues and greens.’

Rewriting the rule book is evident in several other female-designed hotels, from the warm, fluid lines seen at The Henrietta, thanks to French designer Dorothée Meilichzon (‘I’m often told that my interiors are feminine – probably because I use a lot of round shapes and enjoy maximalist décor’) to the playfully clashing fabrics at Olga Polizzi’s country inn, The Star in Alfriston.

With this new, vibrant sensibility comes a feeling that hotel interiors, though experimental, should also stand the test of time, gently evolving with the needs of their guests. Jo Littlefair, the design eye behind newly opened Mondrian Shoreditch, believes that the best improve over time. ‘Tracking changes in the behaviour of society as a whole is key to designing appropriately for the present and the future,’ she reflects.

‘Women understand nuances in emerging behaviour that ultimately affect the position of a plug socket, the depth of an armchair and the light around a dressing table. I know I am inclined to soften spaces using warm textures, curved edges and materials that I can’t resist touching.

I consider the spaces I create with an eye on the emotion I want to elicit.’

Of course, that delicate balance between emotion and practicality is never confined to the mind of any one gender, but where there’s warmth, there’s hospitality. ‘It all comes down to that,’ agrees Dorothée Meilichzon.

‘I always go back to how my mother and my grandmother made people feel welcome. That’s still something I love and try to replicate.’

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THE HENRIETTA Defined by soft, circular silhouettes, playful pattern clashes and an Italian-inspired exuberance, this bolthole was created by Dorothée Meilichzon for French-born hospitality brand Experimental Group. The designer’s eye for scale and shape has resulted in a chic retro feel, warmed by plush velvets and aged brass accents. Delicious. henriettahotel.com

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LIME WOOD A melting pot for some of the most exciting interior designers and architects in the country, this New Forest hideaway has been treated to a sophisticated elegance in the hands of designer Susie Atkinson, who has reworked the drawing room and a number of bedrooms and Pavilion hideaways. Expect frond-laden wallpaper and a blend of own-design and antique pieces. limewoodhotel.co.uk n

PHOTOS: ©PAUL MASSEY; SIMON BROWN

FROM ABOVE: The dining room at The Pheasant, by Isabella Worsley; a bedroom in the Mondrian Shoreditch

THE SOHO HOTEL Kit Kemp’s boundless imagination is easy to spot here in Soho, with 96 rooms and a selection of public spaces that combine bold print, colour, drama and scale via artwork, sculpture, bespoke furniture and lighting, all in the heart of one of the city’s most creative districts. A prime example of the notable designer doing what she does best. firmdalehotels.com

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With exclusive tweeds, cutting-edge technical brands and unrivalled natural fibre knitwear ranges, The House of Bruar has everything you need to enjoy town and country life to the fullest. Whether you’re preparing for your favourite country pursuits or special social occasions, our contemporary country clothing collection has something to suit all tastes.

We also offer the best of Scotland’s natural larder with a mouth-watering selection of smoked meats, award-winning pies and rare single malt Scottish whiskies from our extensive Food Hall and drinks department, as well as extra-special handmade gifts for all the family in our Present Shop and even a rural Art Gallery that captures the spirit of the Scottish wildlife and countryside. A retail destination like no other that promises a truly unique day out, The House of Bruar is located just off the A9 ten miles north of Pitlochry, or you can visit our website to browse our complete collection online at:

www.houseofbruar.com

Please call 01796 483 236 to request a copy of our mail order catalogue.

The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Estuary Sands, Hayle Estuary, Cornwall.

By Lucie Averill, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY Stories of myths and legends abound in this most compelling of regions. But, from the wind-swept stretches of sand to the heather-strewn moors, the reality is just as brilliant as the fantasy

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From drinking carbon neutral Devonshire rum to a dip in a geothermal pool. By Charlotte Rickards

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Chill out at Kudhva

The ultimate digital detox, reconnect with nature at Kudhva’s off-grid architectural hideouts in north Cornwall. Plunge into a wild swimming lake, listen to the sounds of lapping waves, plus the area is bountiful in wild foods and botanicals for which you can forage such as wild strawberries, and gorse flowers that are said to raise your endorphin levels. kudhva.com

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Dig deep at Incredible Edible at Totnes

If you’re needing a bit of community connection and reconnection with the soil, gardening initiative Incredible Edible at Totnes may be for you. You don’t need any knowledge, as it welcomes anyone from any background. Growing everything from fruit and herbs to edible flowers and vegetables in public and unused spaces, it’s for everyone in Totnes to share. transitiontowntotnes.org

Possibly one of the most famous biomes in the world, The Eden Project recreates indoor verdant rainforests and Mediterranean hillsides that make you feel completely in awe of nature. The domes will make you rethink your perspective on the natural planet and see how all life is interconnected, leaving you feeling inspired on how you can be a part of fighting climate change. edenproject.com

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Tuck in at The Hidden Hut

Tuck into freshly cooked produce from the sea en plein air at The Hidden Hut, possibly now Portscatho beach’s worst kept secret (Boris and Biden tried it out at the G7 last year).

The hut’s unmissable event is the ‘bring your own plate’ summer nights – think lobster and chips over a wood fire. hiddenhut.co.uk

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Hike around Trewithan Estate and Gardens

With a name that means ‘house of the trees’, this historic estate plays host to some of the most beautiful specimens of flora. If you go between May and September, you’ll enjoy the majestic bloom of the magnolia tree that stands over 65 feet high.

The estate is embarking on rewilding projects and there’s also a monumental sculpture within the gardens made from recycled and salvaged materials by artist James Wild. trewithengardens.co.uk

PHOTOS: HUFTON+CROW; CAT VINTON; GETTY IMAGES

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Get inspired at the Eden Project

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Swim in a geothermal lido

Heated exclusively by its own well, Penzance’s Jubilee Pool is the first geothermal lido in the UK. This Art Deco, Grade II-listed delight isn’t just sustainable in its energy reduction, it’s also community owned, meaning all the profits go back to its upkeep so it is enjoyed for generations to come. jubileepool.co.uk

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Drink up at Two Drifters Distillery

Did you know rum in the UK is usually brought in from the Caribbean or South America? Two Drifters decided to create its own carbon-negative rum from scratch in Devon. Take a tour and you’ll be greeted with a Devon Stormy cocktail on arrival, before being whisked around to see the journey from raw ingredients to the finished bottle. twodriftersrum.com

Volunteer for beach cleaning

As you’d expect, there are plenty of beach cleaning communities to get involved with in Cornwall. Heading near Falmouth? You can volunteer at Fathoms Free, a charity that recovers ghost fishing gear and marine debris. The National Trust also host beach cleans at North Helford Beach and Sandymouth Beach, and many more. fathomsfree.org; nationaltrust.org.uk

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Get back to nature at Cabilla Cornwall

The owners of retreat Cabilla Cornwall have a thousand-year project: to preserve the ancient woodlands on Bodmin Moor. It’s all about becoming a steward; going along the grain of nature rather than exploiting it. Opt in for its Summer Solstice or Autumn Equinox retreats where yoga flows and sound baths sit nicely with meeting reintroduced beavers as well as other flora and fauna. cabillacornwall.com

PHOTOS: HUFTON+CROW; CAT VINTON; GETTY IMAGES

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Unplug at Loveland Farm

Perched in North Devon’s Hartland Peninsula, Loveland Farm plays host to six geodesic domes.

It’s billed as a space for creatives to unplug from frenzied modern living and is sustainable from the outset: think solar panels, biomass systems for energy, plus all the pods require no electricity nor water. loveland.farm 8

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton’s Artist Residence (p68).

In the charming old quarter of Penzance, they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art and a quirky collection of furniture (packing crate tables, sleigh beds) throughout. New in 2020 was the Chapel Suite, which comes with a brass bathtub in the living area.

Last year, three new rooms and the Sail Loft launched; the latter is an open-plan apartment for three, tucked away in the eaves with sea views (ideal for families). The café-bar-restaurant hangout has reclaimed wooden walls, metal tables and art to enjoy alongside your food. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner courtesy of the smoker in the garden. Here, you’ll also find a bar, table tennis and ping pong, and an al fresco seafood shack serving local lobster rolls, chargrilled steaks and frozen margaritas.

A gourmand’s delight.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk

CARBIS BAY HOTEL & ESTATE CARBIS BAY, CORNWALL

Overlooking one of the world’s most picturesque bays, with its own palm-flanked golden stretch of Blue Flag sandy beach, Carbis Bay Hotel has a prime position. There are 36 individually designed rooms in the original Victorian hotel, as well as selfcatering accommodation. The eight timberclad luxury beach lodges with jaw-dropping sea vistas (perfect for spotting seals) have direct beach access, hot tubs and personal concierge service. There’s also the recently refreshed C Bay Spa with its show-stopping infinity pool. The hotel is a foodie’s paradise, too – starting with the newly-opened Walter’s on the Beach, on the Promenade, which offers excellent Cornish fine dining, accompanied by incredible views of St Ives Bay. Nearby, the new Deli Café is perfect for a quick coffee.

The planet-conscious Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling restaurant also recently opened its doors. Then there’s Mediterranean fare at the Beach Club, The Orangery, which serves a delicious breakfast, superb lunches and evening menu – plus The Hungry Gannet, where the British menu hits all the right notes.

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CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Visitors descend a cliff lane and dramatic views of the English Riviera unfold. Once ensconced in the cossetting welcome of Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary – you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one. Its delightful bedrooms, with echoes of New Englandstyle, are each supplied with a stick of rock on the snow-white pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stonewalled bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seaside-fresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. Seven smart cottages sleep larger groups (including the latest addition, Foxes Walk, a real showstopper), each with their own gardens and sundowner spots.

While you wouldn’t usually expect sybaritic luxury at a self-styled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-of-the-art spa with a hydrotherapy pool, steam and sauna, and marine GAIA treatments. Romantic, family friendly, perfect for walkers and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk

DRIFTWOOD ROSELAND, CORNWALL

There’s no more fabulous vista than from clifftop Driftwood. More Mediterranean than Cornish, it overlooks Gerrans Bay on the Roseland Peninsula and includes seven acres of gardens full of secluded, shady spots that lead to a perfect crescent of private beach. Halfway down is a restored cabin with two bedrooms and a sitting room, a magical place to stay in summer.

A wildflower garden is home to bees that produce honey for the restaurant. The house itself, a 1930s building transformed with the aid of dusky blue clapboard, makes the most of the views. Whether relaxing in the bedrooms, drinking on the generous terrace or indulging in a delicious meal prepared by head chef Olly Pierrepont and enjoyed in the chic dining room, you’ll want to stay forever. Lunch on the sunny deck overlooking the bay is an absolute delight.

Paul and Fiona Robinson opened Driftwood 20 years ago and Fiona’s interior designer skills, plus their hands-on approach and ease with guests, have created a delightful Cornish haven: stylish, seaside-fresh and devoid of pretension.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1872 580644; driftwoodhotel.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 33

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

FOWEY HALL HOTEL FOWEY, CORNWALL

High above the delightful harbour town of Fowey, which famously inspired author Daphne du Maurier, stands the handsome country house that was also said to be an inspiration for Toad Hall in Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows. Inside, as in every Luxury Family Hotel, the ingredients of a perfect grownup establishment – heralded by a hall with open fires, inviting sofas and twinkling chandeliers – are mixed with the essentials of a children’s paradise: play areas, an indoor pool, an Ofsted-registered crèche, audio and visual child monitoring system and more.

A selection of rooms and bespoke suites, all beautifully furnished and accessorized with a cohesive mix of new and lovingly restored antique furniture. The oak-panelled dining room is the setting for delicious dinners for adults, with family dining in the Garden Room restaurant next door and the same mouth-watering menus in both. But don’t think you have to have a family with you to come here: cleverly, it’s a hotel that works just as well for couples. Don’t miss the spectacular estuary and sea views.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1726 833866; foweyhallhotel.co.uk

GIDLEIGH PARK CHAGFORD, DEVON

PHOTOS: ROB BESANT; JULIAN LOVE

‘Keep heart,’ reads a sign along the narrow, twisting lane to Gidleigh Park, ‘you are still en route’. It may be remote, but it’s a haven of luxury. The Tudor-style house, surrounded by abundant gardens and embraced by river and woods on Dartmoor’s edge, has been in the deft hands of Andrew and Christina Brownsword since 2005. They sensitively upgraded the house, embellishing the interior with smart fabrics and Arts & Crafts-inspired furniture, but refrained from adding a spa or gym (‘Dartmoor’s our gym!’), instead creating beautiful rooms, including the indulgent ‘Dartmeet’, a spa suite featuring its own sauna and steam room. Gidleigh is as famous for its restaurant as its divine interiors, and dinner here – outstanding but unpretentious cooking, rooted in the local area – remains the highlight of any stay. The kitchen of this spoiling country retreats continues to delight; its high standard of cooking was first established by self-taught Kay Henderson, who won a Michelin star in 1981. After your meal, be sure to make time to borrow a pair of complimentary Dubarrys and enjoy a stroll around the beautiful estate Doubles from £360 B&B +44 (0)1647 432367; gidleigh.co.uk 34 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard here in Cornwall and The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales (p39 & 143). Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, its sweeping views stretch over the crashing waves and gorse-covered Penwith moorland, dotted with passing cows. It’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. Our favourite is spacious Room 8 with its own log-burning stove and terrace. There are no TVs or phones. But any panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door, be that fish from day boats or vegetables from nearby growers.

Doubles from £148 +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk

HELL BAY HOTEL

PHOTOS: ROB BESANT; JULIAN LOVE

BRYHER, ISLES OF SCILLY

California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher, in the Isles of Scilly. Awaiting you is nothing but grass, golden sand, a jumble of rocks and the vast ocean stretching all the way to America. It’s the creation of Robert Dorrien-Smith (he also owns Tresco) who has filled the waterfront hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection. There are 25 beautiful, airy suites, most with stunning sea views.

You’ll also find a swimming pool, tennis court and fitness rooms, a yoga studio and sumptuous Treatment Shed in the hotel grounds. Delicious, island-inspired dishes made using local produce are served up at the three AA Rosette restaurant and at The Crab Shack, a rustic former fisherman’s net loft with long tables and bench seating just yards from the shoreline. For a simple supper, nothing tastes better than the Bryher crab. And getting here is easy too, with a helicopter service direct from Cornwall to the neighbouring island of Tresco (then it’s a short boat ride across the water).

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 35

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH MILTON ABBOT, DEVON

This delightful Regency cottage orné is set down a mile-long drive in its own secret valley. Built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, its 100-acre gardens were laid out

by Humphry Repton, whose plans included placing hidden chimneys in the woods so they could see smoke curling prettily above the trees. Today, over a delicious meal, you can gaze on the same view from lovely terraces. Repton’s raised herbaceous border, the River Tamar and the tumbling woods beyond are a mesmerising sight. With its wooden floors and doors, Endsleigh brings to mind an endearingly old-fashioned Scottish shooting lodge, artfully blended with contemporary luxury and owner Olga Polizzi’s stunning eye for design. The 19 bedrooms are stylish (think hand-painted chinoiserie wallpapers, rolltop baths and snugly-quilted beds) and include three suites in the stable block. One is perfect for families, another for honeymooners, while the newest is a quirky and delightful conversion of the former hayloft. As for the grounds, they’re a fantasy of fairytale dells and grottos, cascades and crags.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1822 870000; hotelendsleigh.com

HOTEL MEUDON NR FALMOUTH, CORNWALL

Steeped in history thanks to its association with the Fox family, who were influential in the development of Falmouth in the 19th century, this Cornish hidden gem has nine acres of unique sub-tropical gardens that stretch down to a private beach, Bream Cove. An unspoilt paradise, it’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling, paddle boarding or picking up the South West Coast Path to go hiking. The hotel itself is fresh from an extensive, sympathetic refurbishment: expect contemporary, light-filled rooms with comfy beds, aromatic bath products and gorgeous views (choose from garden, sea or inland) from the balcony or terrace.

The restaurant fully reflects its location and heritage, drawing influences from French classic haute cuisine (Meudon takes its name from the nearby farmhouses built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who were from an eponymous village in France), simple dishes from the 1960s and the fresh herbs and vegetables grown in the garden. Ask for a table by the floor-toceiling windows and admire the blooms as you tuck in.

Garden View Doubles from £129 B&B +44 (0)1326 250541; meudon.co.uk 36 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HOTEL TRESANTON ST MAWES, CORNWALL

With fabulous views over Falmouth Bay, Tresanton became a landmark when hotelier Olga Polizzi created the first truly fashionable and chic British seaside bolthole. It effortlessly continues to hold its own without any of the pretension of more recent, glossier addresses. Indeed, with its new Beach Club, where you can relax on sun loungers with a glass of rosé, looking out at the view, it has never been better. Bedrooms are engaging and stylish and there’s a ship’s deck of a terrace. But the hotel also has cosiness, underpinned by professional service from waiters in white, silver-buttoned jackets. The hotel started life as a yacht club and is a series of five separate buildings. In Rock Cottage and Upper Tresanton there are three fabulous suites that are perfect for families, while the Forte suite in Rock Cottage has a wood burner and crow’s nest terrace. As for the locally sourced food, it’s served in a magical Mediterranean room, sunlit by day, candlelit by night. Plus, from May to September, a skipper will take guests sailing around Falmouth Bay on the hotel’s 8m classic yacht.

Doubles from £270 +44 (0)1326 270055; tresanton.com

THE IDLE ROCKS ST MAWES, CORNWALL

Perched on the rocks in the fishing village of St Mawes, this is a gorgeous coastal escape which was voted the number one boutique hotel in Cornwall and is perfectly placed to explore some of the area’s most famous towns and landmarks (it’s a 20-minute ferry ride across the River Fal to Falmouth). The biggest of the 18 light, airy bedrooms (the Grand Seaview Rooms) have spectacular water views; others look out to the boats bobbing in the harbour or the quiet, cobbled streets of St Mawes, which was voted the number one coastal village in the UK. The Reef Knot Retreat treatment room is tucked away on the top floor for relaxing Aromatherapy Associates massages and facials; there’s a hidden cinema with comfy chairs for dinner and movie nights; and a must-visit restaurant, which is led by Executive Head Chef Dorian Janmaat. Here, the menu is based around local produce and suppliers, so expect plenty of fresh fish in dishes such as trout tartare with sushi rice and wasabi crème or salted cured cod with lentils and salsa verde. For the classic Cornish experience, don’t miss a cream tea with sparkling wine in the lounge either.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 37

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LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON

This handsome country house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career gaining Michelin stars. There are 21 glamorous guest rooms that take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary, as well as six Shepherd’s Huts arranged around a pond in the grounds. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its wildlife. The birds of the estuary are featured in the staircase wallpaper, and the bedrooms, each decorated with a watercolour of their avian namesake, match the feathered colour schemes.

One of the main reasons to come is for Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food.

It was no surprise when he earned Lympstone Manor’s first Michelin star within six months of opening in 2017.

There’s the new Pool House Restaurant & Bar, too, with its outdoor heated pool.

Michael also planted 17,500 vines in 2018.

The first vintage was released in April 2022, Triassic Pinot Noir 2020. The name reflects the vineyard’s terroir and pays homage to the Jurassic Coast nearby.

Doubles from £395 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk

THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, The Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated country house hotel. It’s a five-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Owner Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and his many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chauffeur service and the fine food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who offers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.

Doubles from £360 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk 38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE NEW INN TRESCO, ISLES OF SCILLY

Tresco has a magic which is hard to beat.

The New Inn, with its award-winning accommodation and food, just moments from the harbour, fits right in. Fresh from a major renovation, with sustainable design features throughout, there are now 16 all-new ensuite bedrooms (two with their own terrace). Each retain their unique charm but with a fresh new look, blending timeless nostalgia with modern comforts. Hues of plum and bracken cleverly accent the turquoise tongue-andgroove panelling, beds are topped with sumptuous Hypnos mattresses and handcrafted bedside tables are home to Roberts Radios. The beautiful blinds are a bespoke colourway by Fermoie. The bathrooms have also been completely redone, with walk-in rain showers, fluffy robes and bespoke tiling.

Downstairs, prop yourself up at the Driftwood Bar, gather in the wreck wood-lined snug, soak up the sea views on the terrace, or relax in the Pavilion with its wood-burning stove.

The food is excellent here. Made using the best local produce, it’s British seasonal classics with a Tresco twist. Afterwards, explore the island – don’t miss Tresco Abbey Garden.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1720 422849; tresco.co.uk

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charlie and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay (see also Felin Fach Griffin and The Gunard’s Head on p143 & 35), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains (the best come with knockout views from the balcony). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning – all cooked by head chef, Cornishman Jamie Porter. Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees and hydrangeas, or reclining on the new sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place.

Doubles from £173 +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 39

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THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

As you approach this Grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by luscious meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly fulfilled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a bar with wood-fired oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide-open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other Pigs, this is a total joy of a hotel.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – AT HARLYN BAY PADSTOW, CORNWALL

‘Which is your favourite Pig?’ is a regular question. One that is extremely tough because all are so loved, but it is this one in the litter that comes leaping to mind first. The hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s another sure-fire hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild flowers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that will be as pleasing in winter as it is in summer.

Though only opened in July 2020, this Pig feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning kitchen garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from head chef Adam Bristow’s 25-Mile Menu.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com 40 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL

Standing proud on the Lizard Peninsula, this one-time Victorian railway hotel has stunning, unspoilt views of the coastline.

Previously known as the Polurrian Bay Hotel, in 2019 it was renamed and all the communal spaces given a fresh new look; now it feels coastal and quirky, and there’s an emphasis on great service and relaxation.

The restaurant specialises in Mediterraneaninspired dishes using the finest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas made in the wood-fired Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, while listening to live music as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic views of the mature gardens and Atlantic Ocean.

With easy access to Polurrian Cove beach and the South West Coast Path, a cliff-top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 12 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the outdoors and wants to explore this picturesque part of the country.

For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes.

Doubles from £119 B&B +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com

SALCOMBE HARBOUR HOTEL & SPA SALCOMBE, DEVON

One of the most picturesque hotels in the west of England, set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this waterside retreat overlooks the picture-postcard Devonshire town of Salcombe. A maritime theme is subtly referenced throughout the 49 rooms and one suite, with a soothing palette of blues and whites, natural fabrics and driftwood. There’s a menu of holistic treatments on offer at the HarSPA, from scrubs and wraps to relaxing facials.

A spacious seaside sanctuary, its blue and gold indoor pool is flanked with Breton-striped day beds. Chef patron Alex Aitken steers the ship at The Jetty Restaurant. As much as possible, the fish is caught locally, and you’ll often see the fishermen landing their catch just minutes from the kitchen. Summer brings a seafood and crustacean bar, too, where guests can select their fish and have chefs cook it to their liking. Come August, the Salcombe Regatta sees over 200 sailing boats compete along the estuary – so pick a room with a view, if you can.

Double from £273 +44 (0)1548 844444; harbourhotels.co.uk/salcombe 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 41

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THE SCARLET MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL

Overlooking the sweeping, romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating ecohotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At the heart of The Scarlet is the womb-like Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation. There’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one, plus two clifftop hot tubs and a cedar barrel sauna perched overlooking the ocean.

Bedrooms come in clusters on several levels, but they’re all soothing, with funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds and sea and sunset views. As for the delicious food, executive chef Mike Francis oversees his team with an air of calm, kindness and mutual respect, consistently serving up exceptional seasonal dishes from the hotel kitchen. The Scarlet may be thoroughly green and eco-friendly but there’s no sense of the 1970s hair shirt approach; once inside this adult-only sanctuary, the feeling is one of soothing, sybaritic luxury. The ultimate green escape.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

PHOTOS: JAMES RAM

PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein.

And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to your meal. Alternatively, you can eat more simply at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which offers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and set in charming, whitewashed village houses.

There are lovely rooms above the Seafood Restaurant, while the cheapest are above the Café and the most expensive in St Edmunds House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, there are four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, five warm shepherd’s huts offer beautiful countryside accommodation.

Doubles from £134 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com 42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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ST ENODOC ROCK, CORNWALL

Well-heeled British families have flocked to Rock for their bucket-and-spade holidays for generations, but it wasn’t until the successful makeover of the classic seaside hotel, St Enodoc, in the 1990s that they had somewhere stylish and relaxed to stay, that’s also perfect for all ages. Executive Chef Guy Owen does an excellent job with the food.

Using the ‘Cornish larder’, the modern European dishes served at The Brasserie are fresh, healthy and locally sourced. Its clean lines, Mediterranean feel and wide terrace are in perfect harmony with the location.

There’s also the recently opened Karrek with its intimate, tasting menu celebrating the best of Cornwall. Upstairs, the bedrooms – many with sea views – are brightly painted, with original art on the walls. Together with the hotel’s spa and heated pool, it makes the ideal seaside base, with sandy beaches, fine walking, the ferry to Padstow and a golf course on the doorstep. ‘Blesséd be St Enodoc,’ wrote John Betjeman, in his bestknown poem, Trebetherick, in which he wished all children could enjoy the glorious holidays he’d spent there with his friends.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1208 863394; enodoc-hotel.co.uk

UNA RESORT

PHOTOS: JAMES RAM

ST IVES, CORNWALL

Just outside St Ives in gorgeous, sandy Carbis Bay, Una Resort is a collection of wood-clad lodges and luxury villas, each with chic coastal-inspired interiors, a cosy log burner for chilly evenings, a well-equipped kitchen and a private garden or terrace (most also come with their own hot tub). When guests don’t feel like cooking, there’s award-winning Una Kitchen. Led by head chef Glenn Gatland (previous experience includes Hell Bay on the Isles of Scilly and a trio of restaurants on Tresco), it’s known for Mediterraneaninspired, wood-fired cooking. Stand-out dishes include Cornish sea bream with pea and lemon risotto, slow-cooked pork belly with Parmesan polenta and, of course, delicious hand-stretched pizzas.

The friendly reception team can help arrange anything from surf lessons to restaurant reservations, as well as offer insider tips on what to see nearby. Or, if you simply want to stay put and unwind, the spa – with its sauna and steam room, and must-book pampering Elemis treatments – awaits.

Two-bed lodge from £360 for three nights +44 (0)1736 257000; unastives.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 43

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THE WEST COUNTRY Head west for bucolic bliss and sun-kissed coves, as well as cutting-edge cities to explore and a burgeoning food scene to sample

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The Beast Within the Beauty, Paulton, Somerset. By Henri Abbott, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From eating green in Bristol to a mushroom masterclass in Somerset. By Charlotte Rickards

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Forage for lunch at Herbs & Wild café

Forager and wild swimmer Hannah Thomas runs Herbs & Wild, where the traceability of produce is at the heart of everything. For a spot of lunch why not try a salt beef, watercress, walnut and béarnaise bap followed by raspberry, rose and poppy seed Victoria sponge. Hannah also hosts workshops – the stuff of your foraging, sourdough and fermenting dreams. herbsandwild.co.uk

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Get back to nature at Hauser & Wirth

Piet Oudolf, the inspired garden designer who brought Manhattan’s High Line into existence, has transported his horticultural genius to Somerset’s Hauser & Wirth gallery. Oudolf Field is a 1.5-acre perennial meadow and a sensory overload with its naturalistic planting. The new on-site farm shop is a revelation too. hauserwirth.com

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Explore The Newt

Shaped over the last 200 years, the grounds of The Newt in Somerset are a must-see.

From the delightful walled garden to the diverse woodland, look out for local wildlife that includes native deer and great crested newts. Check out the roster of events scheduled throughout the year for guests and members, with mushroom masterclasses and workshops in propagation and compost. thenewtinsomerset.com

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Clean up with Litter Free Dorset – Land, Coast & Sea

Support Dorset’s town, river and beach cleaning community campaign, where litter picking for as little as two minutes can make the world of difference. Head to its website for information on how to get involved and volunteer at the next clean-up event. litterfreedorset.co.uk

Explore climate change and its effect on the oceans at gallery and arts centre Messums Wiltshire. The beautiful 13th-century tithe barn, made from local limestone and sitting on a bedrock of coral, will bring together artists including Henrietta Armstrong and Wayne Binitie in a show examining the littoral landscape, the area between land and sea.

14 May to 3 July 2022, messumswiltshire.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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Discover the Tideline Exhibition of Environmental Art

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Swim at Vobster Quay

Known by locals as the place to swim wild, Vobster Quay has a waiting list that shows just how sought after this 36-acre freshwater lake is. Forget dipping a toe in the water – as well as swimming, the quay is also home to scuba diving and paddleboarding. Keep in mind, though, that you need to be a member to book a session to swim, so best join that list pronto. vobster.com

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Shop at Zero Green, Bristol

Join the refill revolution and head to Bristol’s first zero-waste shop for all your store cupboard essentials and all-natural bathroom and beauty products. Everything sold is vegan, plastic free and supports local producers and Fair Trade brands. If you don’t have time to visit the beautiful wood-clad shop, you can buy products online. zerogreenbristol.co.uk

Tramp the South West Coast Path

England’s longest footpath, the South West Coast Path takes you along the region’s picturesque coastline from Poole Harbour in Dorset all the way to Minehead in Somerset, taking in Devon and Cornwall along the way. There’s a 52-day itinerary for well-seasoned hikers looking for a challenge or it can be done section by section, with lots of breaks for ice cream. southwestcoastpath.org.uk

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Hang ten at The Wave, Bristol

The first inland surfing destination of its kind, The Wave is for anyone who wants to give surfing a go, regardless of ability or age. Waves are guaranteed the year round. What’s more, the pool uses 100 per cent renewable energy to power the wave machine. thewave.com

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Tuck in at Poco

This Bristol tapas bar has sustainability at its core, and a number of awards to prove it. Near to 100 per cent of Paco’s waste is composted and recycled, ingredients are always seasonal and produce is selected for its traceability, bought direct from farmers where possible. Aside from the restaurant’s commitment to ethical practice, the food and atmosphere are also winning. Why not taste it for yourself. pocotapasbar.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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ARTIST RESIDENCE BRISTOL, SOMERSET

When Justin and Charlie Salisbury were hunting for a site for their latest Artist Residence hotel they settled on an old boot factory in Bristol’s artsy St Paul’s community, a stone’s throw from the city’s buzzing centre. To start with, the building had all of the qualities the pair typically looks for – a nod to the past, original beams and exposed brick walls – to which they added their signature industrial-luxe style, an eclectic mix of vintage and boho furniture and a collection of original, specially commissioned artworks by local artists. The 23 rooms in the boutique hotel range from the super-cosy Shoe Box, which has arched floor-to-ceiling windows, a comfy king-sized bed and a compact bathroom (best suited for solo travellers or shorter stays) to the vast Artist Suite – think Georgian cornicing, views over leafy Portland Square and a roll-top tub in the bathroom. The idea was to create a proper, vibrant neighbourhood hang-out so there’s a real emphasis on the social spaces that are open to everyone: a coffee shop, bar, casual all-day restaurant and garden.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1174 288440; artistresidence.co.uk

THE BATH ARMS AT LONGLEAT

PHOTOS: PETER HELME PHOTOGRAPHY

HORNINGSHAM, WILTSHIRE

This is the latest venture by co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees, whose portfolio of successful country pubs with rooms also includes The Beckford Arms, opposite. Here, the trio has reinvented an 18th-century inn on the edge of the Longleat Estate, adding 16 simple yet stylish rooms in the main building and stable block.

Countryside-inspired interiors feature a muted colour palette, cosy blankets on the beds and sink-into armchairs; the biggest rooms also come with modern four-posters and roll-top baths. Local is a priority so there is gin from nearby distilleries and beer from artisan breweries (it also has its own Horning Ale), as well as wine from the Beckford Bottle Shop in Bath, all served at the wood-panelled bar. In the kitchen, chef Jack Chapman (he cut his teeth at The Beckford Arms) cooks up comforting, unpretentious favourites such as dry-aged Wiltshire steaks, hearty Sunday lunch and apple crumble to share. During the summer there’s nothing more lovely than settling down at cocktail hour on the suntrap terrace looking out across the fields.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1985 844308; batharmsinn.com 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, founded by the eccentric William Beckford in the 18th century, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room or pretty conservatory; there’s also private dining for 12 in the homely library or for 24 in the quiet sitting room, with its crackling log fire, comfy antique chairs and tables piled with books and magazines worth reading. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar, washed down with their own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners as well as peerless breakfasts. You sleep well too: co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees have thought of everything for the sophisticated guest, from luxurious beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws, garden flowers and Chloë Luxton’s lovely Bramley bath products. There’s an outdoor pizza oven, and the garden rambles delightfully towards the stone arch that frames views of romantic Fonthill with its lake and rolling parkland.

Doubles from £105 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com

BOWOOD HOTEL, SPA AND GOLF RESORT

PHOTOS: PETER HELME PHOTOGRAPHY

CALNE, WILTSHIRE

There are 43 spacious, contemporary bedrooms in this fine estate hotel, but it’s the stunning reception rooms, designed by the Marchioness of Lansdowne, that make the place: the soft grey hall, book-lined library and the sweeping Shelburne bar and restaurant, perfect for elegant but contemporary dining.

Stay here – in 2,000 acres of Capability Brown parkland – and enjoy one of the finest allweather PGA Championship golf courses in the South West. Alternatively, take over the fourbedroom Queenwood Lodge, made for special occasions. Alongside the hotel, enjoy a spell in the beautiful award-winning spa with infinity pool or sit down for a delicious afternoon tea in the library. Bowood House, located on the estate just a mile from the hotel, has been home to the Lansdowne family since 1754.

Tour the house and grounds and, in spring, don’t miss the spectacular Woodland Gardens.

For families, the adventure playground is a must, with aerial walkways among the trees, rope bridges and a swashbuckling pirate ship where little ones can let off steam. So much to do, in such a lovely place.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1249 822228; bowood.org 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 49

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THE EASTBURY SHERBORNE, DORSET

An early Georgian Grade II-listed gentleman’s residence in the charming historic town of Sherborne, The Eastbury is a multi-award-winning five-star hotel, fully refurbished in country house style by its owners, Peter and Lana de Savary. Guests keep returning for its understated charm, friendly staff, comfortable rooms, stand-out restaurant and great location as a base to explore the glorious Dorset countryside.

The 26 bedrooms are split between traditional luxury and contemporary chic, full of colour and abstract paintings. The fabrics are superb quality and the bedrooms all enjoy crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. Five Victorian Garden Potting Shed Suites are discreetly located within the lovely garden, as is its boutique luxury spa, which has a wild meadow roof and inviting circular wooden door. Expect local, seasonal dishes on the à la carte menu at Season’s (tuck in on the delightful leafy terrace), and an impressive wine list curated from the de Savary’s private collection. The most recent addition to The Eastbury is a renovated three-bedroom cottage, ideal for family breaks.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1935 813131; theeastburyhotel.co.uk

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie with open kitchen. Then there’s the spa, including sleek indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms and a social lounge with a skincare mixology bar. The impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards. For your own slice of the estate, book the four-bedroom luxury Squire’s Cottage, or one of the chic threebedroom cottages. Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations. If you yearn for a bit of grandeur, then this superb hotel perfectly fits the bill.

Doubles from £459 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE WEST COUNTRY

MOONFLEET MANOR WEYMOUTH, DORSET

Is there a more idyllic setting for a family break than the intriguingly named Moonfleet Manor? If it sounds like something out of an adventure novel, it is: steeped in smuggling history, the house formed the backdrop for John Meade Falkner’s swashbuckling novel of the same name. Built for Maximilian Mohune and overlooking Fleet Lagoon on the Jurassic Coast, the big, friendly Georgian house has a spectacular location. Its elegant and welcoming interiors provide the perfect contrast to the spine-tingling landscape of Chesil Beach, an 18 mile-long stretch of pebbles (about 180 billion, they reckon) and setting for the eponymous film based on Ian McEwan’s novel. With its Ofsted-registered crèche, verandah, indoor play zone, outdoor sandpit and playground, tennis courts, spa treatment rooms and indoor pool, plus classic British dining served in the coastal facing restaurant and contemporary bedroom decor, Moonfleet truly has something for everyone.

There’s plenty to explore nearby too, from walks along the South West Coast Path that runs along the bottom of the hotel’s garden to crabbing in Weymouth.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1305 786948; moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk

THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET

This may be just one of several ruralthemed Pig hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Home Grown Hotels group: a proper, grownup hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. ‘It’s The Pig on steroids,’ says owner Robin Hutson (though luckily not the price, which is the opposite of pumpedup). Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle.

As at all the Pigs, the kitchen garden is central and its abundant produce appears on your plate in the lovely conservatory.

It’s a great venue for one of the fantastic Smoked & Uncut festivals, which are held at Pig hotels and Lime Wood over the summer. You can book a room or glamp in a bell tent if the mood takes you.

Rooms from £195 +44 (0)1761 490490; thepighotel.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 51

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18thcentury house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views? You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep-flecked fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a muchloved seaside sibling in the drove of Pig hotels and it positively brims with charm.

In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with signature 25-mile menu) and walled kitchen garden, there are quirkily different bedrooms, including a charming shepherd’s hut with log fire and separate bathroom. There’s a buzzy outdoor bar with a wood-fired oven for sourdough pizzas, a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut (complete with its own ice cream cart), and essential beach bags, mats, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel.

For fun in the sun, and smiles on faces, you need look no further.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

THE RECTORY CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE

Originally the rectory to a nearby church before it became a country house hotel, this Grade II-listed Georgian building was revamped and reopened by former music executive Alex Payne in 2017. Now the house, built from beautiful golden Cotswold stone, has 18 pared-back but beautiful bedrooms: 15 in the main house, plus three in a separate cottage, all kitted out with contemporary furniture, beds with smart velvet headboards in shades such as mustard or navy, and roll top baths with luxurious Bramley products in the bathroom. Here, all the little details have been considered, from the smart TVs to the honesty bar that’s stocked with brandy and whisky for anyone who fancies a nightcap. Downstairs, there are two inviting sitting rooms with sink-in sofas, board games, paperbacks and, in winter, a crackling log fire.

Food is served in the relaxed wood-panelled dining room, the airy glasshouse and in the tranquil garden, where there’s also a heated pool which is open from May to October.

Popular sister pub, The Potting Shed, is just over the road, too, for equally delicious suppers and fine ales.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH

In the heart of beautiful Bath (as seen on screen in Netflix hit, Bridgerton) lies The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, a five-star destination expertly combining first-class service and meticulous attention to detail.

John Wood the Younger’s 250-year-old Georgian terrace remains truly magnificent to this day. The hotel’s 45 suites and rooms, most of which offer unrivalled views over the hotel’s pretty, herbaceous borders or the Crescent’s impressive lawn, are among the UK’s most memorable places to stay.

There’s a choice of decadent afternoon teas, all served in the hotel’s beautiful English gardens or in the elegant onsite restaurant. The Spa & Bath House is another wonderfully atmospheric haven, so after unwinding with an Elemental Herbology treatment, why not relax in the Taittinger Spa Garden with a glass of rosé and a delicious lunch? The hotel has recently welcomed three rescue hedgehogs to its gardens; keep an eye out for them snuffling around, especially as the sun starts to set.

Doubles from £360 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

THE TALBOT INN MELLS, SOMERSET

The owners of the excellent Beckford Arms in Wiltshire and The Bath Arms at Longleat (see p49 and 48), Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton, and their third partner, Matt Greenlees, scored an immediate hit with their second atmospheric inn with its lovely old stone buildings. Enter through the historic carriage arch, which leads to a cobbled courtyard backed by a succession of cosy dining areas – one a map room, another with a roaring fire and yet another with a bar. There’s also a separate sitting room, fashioned from a 500-year-old barn. As for food – there’s excellent pub grub, from dayboat-landed fish and chips to well-aged steaks. As for the eight bedrooms, they’re stylish and amazing value, with the extra touches you’d expect from The Beckford Arms, such as superb beds, rain showers and hot water bottles. The bathrooms come well stocked with luxurious, all-natural Bramley toiletries, created by the team at the Beckford. Explore the village and its exceptional church, go horse-riding, antique-hunting or explore local gardens like Longleat and the Hauser & Wirth. You’ll sleep in utter peace after all that. A real gem.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1373 812254; talbotinn.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 53

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT This slice of southern Britain is where sea and sky meet; where the fringes of ancient forest brush against white sandy shores. It’s wild and wonderful, and rich in unforgettable landscapes

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Lest We Forget, Overton, Hampshire.

By Pete Humphry, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From discovering some majestic trees to following in the footsteps of famous writers. By Charlotte Rickards

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Book a room at Heckfield Place

This Georgian estate plays host to more than 400 acres of ancient woodland and heather, and is one of the most sustainable places to stay and dine in the UK. Featuring a fully certified biodynamic market garden with a farm-to-fork offering powered by sustainable biomass boilers, this hotel and restaurant has made a real commitment to planet-first change. heckfieldplace.com

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Paddle power on the Isle of Wight

A gentle paddle while taking in the scenery can do wonders for your mental health.

Whether you’re a seasoned kayaker or completely new to the game, head to Tackt-Isle Adventures in St Helens on the Isle of Wight for all the kayaking kit you need. Perfect for a family adventure, there are plenty of options for guided sessions, so you’ll be able to find the right level for you. tackt-isle.co.uk

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Take the plunge and go wild swimming

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Dig in at Petersfield Community Garden

A thriving community enterprise for the past nine years, these Petersfield gardens in the South Downs National Park are open to everyone to pitch in for free on Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings. Keep an eye on the events that run throughout the year, like bonfires and wassailing the orchard. petersfieldcommunitygarden.org

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Pedal along the Isle of Wight’s Red Squirrel Trail

Meandering through woodlands, along estuaries and a fabulous stretch of its majestic coastline, cycling is a great way to see the Isle of Wight. The Red Squirrel Trail is a 32-mile route, but don’t worry – there are plenty of pit stops (try the seawall path from Sandown to Shanklin for an ice cream break). Tie in an overnight stay if you’d rather take it at a more leisurely pace. visitisleofwight.co.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © VINCENT EDBERG

Hampshire, with its many waterways and rivers, has a plethora of picturesque destinations for wild swimming. You’ll want to head to Balmer Lawn for picnics and paddling, while the Lymington River runs into deeper pools near the bridge for proper swimming. Look out for places like Houghton, Odiham Ford and St Cross as great spots for taking to the water.

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HAMPSHIRE & ISLE OF WIGHT

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Get lost at Shanklin Chine on the Isle of Wight

A source of inspiration for the likes of Keats and Austen, Shanklin Chine is one of the island’s most beautiful biophilic spaces. Think gushing waterfalls, red squirrels and butterflies, as well as damselflies and Asian blue quail, and over 150 varieties of wild plants. shanklinchine.co.uk

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Climb up to The Damselfly Tree House

High in the treetops, cocoon yourself in The Damselfly Treehouse on the Fullerton Farm vineyard in Hampshire. Sip local wine as you soak away your stresses in the al-fresco copper bath and snuggle up by the roaring log fire. Or sign up to the truffle hunts, vineyard tours and hikes on offer for guests staying at the stylish treehouses. canopyandstars.co.uk

Stroll along the Tall Trees Trail in the New Forest

The stuff of arboreal delight: on this trail you’ll encounter the biggest trees in the New Forest, Wellingtonia coast redwoods. As you pass the mighty Douglas fir and redwood trees, you may even spot a few prancing roe deer that are native to this part of the country. The route spans a relaxed 1.5 miles in length, and you’ll need to park at either the Blackwater or Brock Hill car park. visit-hampshire.co.uk

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Take part in a beach clean on the Isle of Wight

Want to give back to the area you’re visiting?

Follow the Facebook group, Isle of Wight Beach Cleaning Volunteers, which posts regular beach cleaning events where a volunteer team clears up everything from fishing lines to inflatables to plastic ocean waste. A real feel-good holiday activity.

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Explore the New Forest from a paddle board

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © VINCENT EDBERG

Snake through the salt marshes around the coastal hamlet of Keyhaven with a view of Hurst Castle as you explore the fringes of the Solent. Powered only by your own efforts, paddle boarding is a wonderful way to discover the coastline without disturbing the local wildlife. thenewforestpaddlesportcompany.co.uk 8

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CHEWTON GLEN NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE

Chewton Glen is a true English original; a privately-owned five-star hotel and spa, situated on the edge of the ancient New Forest and a short walk from the beach in Hampshire. Choose from a variety of quintessentially English guestrooms and luxurious suites or spend the night among the trees, immersed in nature, in your very own secluded Treehouse Suite on stilts (they even come with al-fresco hot tubs). Savour delectable cuisine (twice-baked soufflé say, or Wiltshire venison loin) and afternoon tea in The Dining Room, or enjoy a relaxed meal at The Kitchen, an exciting restaurant overseen by chef James Martin. Want to improve your culinary skills? There’s also a cooking school offering lessons from the chef himself. Within the 130 acres of grounds, you can also enjoy all kinds of family-friendly activities: there’s a nine-hole golf course, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Or simply unwind in the fabulous indoor and outdoor pools and the indulgent, award-winning spa – there’s definitely something to satisfy everyone.

Service is effortless too. Without doubt, this is one of the country’s finest hotels.

Classic from £540 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley. When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands off our public bar!’ He says, ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me!’ For a plain room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right.

For some of the best food in the New Forest – it has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms – in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. As you’d expect, breakfast is spot on.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk 58 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE

Just one hour from London, Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire will transport you to another world amid 500 acres of beautiful nature on the Dogmersfield Park Estate.

Embrace country living and enjoy watching the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the comfort of recently redesigned guest rooms and suites. Immerse yourself in the surroundings and abundant activities including croquet, clay pigeon shooting, fishing, cycling, and more, while children can let loose in the kids’ playground or family adventure pool, Sharkie’s Reef. Located in the original 18th-century stable block, the large light-filled spa, 20-metre adult pool and outdoor vitality pool offer opportunities to relax, reconnect and recharge. The worldrenowned Four Seasons service is exemplary, and food and beverage offerings from the Wild Carrot restaurant and bar makes the perfect setting for memorable meals. Sunday lunch is a highlight, featuring entirely local produce from the heart of Hampshire. For a quintessentially British afternoon tea, head to The Library, a cosy spot for a comfy chat.

Doubles from £525 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com

THE GROSVENOR STOCKBRIDGE, HAMPSHIRE

This historic gem, The Grosvenor, sits proudly at the heart of Stockbridge, the smallest town in England, and home to the River Test. The hotel is now run and has been lovingly restored to its former glory over the past few years by local resident Simon Henderson and his wife Teresa. It’s a delightful, relaxing hotel, where you can celebrate and unwind. There are 34 beautiful bedrooms, which mix antiques with contemporary pieces – plus all boast pocket-sprung Visprung mattresses. Book the sumptuous Hayloft suite with its own sitting and dining area and Cook’s Corner. Or there’s one of the stunningly-designed garden rooms, opening onto the walled garden. There’s also the lovely three-bedroom Tap Cottage. Dogs are welcome too. Headed up by Sebastian Smith, there are five fantastic eateries, from the elegant Market Room Restaurant (complete with live music) to the Alpineinspired La Hutte (order the raclette) to the fabulous new 1822 bar. The Grosvenor offers an abundance of sporting pursuits to boot, including fly fishing (ask the hotel for a delicious Kingfisher hamper), shooting, walking and cycling. What could be better?

Doubles from £150 B&B +44 (0)1264 810606; thegrosvenorstockbridge.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 59

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, The Hambrough benefits from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. This boutique island hotel has seven individually designed rooms; all are fresh, light and airy, some with balconies looking across the English Channel. If you are after something more private, there is a charming cottage for four and a lovely town house, which sleeps ten, with original features but modern amenities. The recent appointment of multi award-winning Executive Chef Matthew Tomkinson is already elevating The Hambrough’s reputation as one of the Island’s top culinary destinations. Matthew brings with him a wealth of experience, as a Roux Scholarship winner and having been awarded a Michelin star twice, his light, classical style menus garnering a faithful following. The small, friendly staff give a family-run feel, adding to its charm without compromising on service. On the southern tip of the Isle of Wight and sheltered by St Boniface Down to the north, this is one of the sunniest spots in the UK and perfect for a seaside escape.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com

HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE

Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life.

You can swim in the lake, picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own certified biodynamic market garden and organic farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and flop-down homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak floors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush.

Heckfield Place, once home to Charles ShawLefevre, who became Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic (fine 20th-century English pictures from the owner Chan family’s private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining (The Assembly is a curated programme of films and events). There’s also a discreet wellness spa, and the authentic and delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Marle and Hearth restaurants, plus afternoon tea in the beautiful Glass House. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original room types.

Doubles from £450 +44 (0)118 932 6868; heckfieldplace.com 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this ravishing, deeply luxurious New Forest lair. Oak doors are thick, paint finishes fresh and soft floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent bedroom. Stylised sitting rooms melt one into another, pale lemon into sage green, each with an open fire. In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, get a Sarah Chapman facial, take in forest views from the massive sauna and eat inspired raw food in the Raw & Cured café. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett, and the hotel’s own chef, Luke Holder. Italian-influenced forest dishes and sharing plates are served in gorgeous, warmly coloured, laid-back surroundings.

The glamour is there, but the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the mood. And as for the hotel’s Lake Cabin? It just has to be one of the most romantic hideaways in the country, nestled away on the far side of the lake.

Doubles from £405 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

Seven years ago, hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America, an open-plan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining on a warm summer’s evening.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 61

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NEW PARK MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

The 17th and 21st centuries fuse impeccably at this New Forest hotel, part of the Luxury Family Hotels collection. The manor was Charles II’s favourite hunting lodge and still has its original fireplaces, panelling and oak leaf-patterned doors, alongside all the contemporary comforts that you – or your children – could possibly need. The 25 bedrooms are divided between the manor and a modern wing, which also houses an indoor pool and spa with an outdoor hot tub, pool and thermal rooms.

While you unwind, babies and toddlers can be cared for in the crèche (one session offered for each night’s stay), and older children might watch a movie at the cinema club or play games in the extensive gardens. For active families, there’s an outdoor pool (open May to September) and plenty of walks and cycle trails through the surrounding forest – take a picnic and make a day of it. The hotel provides all sorts of equipment, from bed guards to bottle warmers, and a listening service so that parents can enjoy a stress-free, grown-up dinner in the sophisticated Stag restaurant.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1590 623467; newparkmanorhotel.co.uk

NORTH HOUSE COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT

It’s well worth the short, steep climb from Cowes’s High Street to the top of Sun Hill and this engaging 19th-century, Grade II-listed townhouse, the town’s very first boutique hotel. Apart from the splendid sea views (best from some of the bedrooms), North House has been sympathetically restored and decorated with flair. Public rooms and bedrooms sport tasteful Farrow & Ball wallpaper or paint, with a nod to the nautical here and there. North House has 14 unique rooms from small (although even the small are a good size) to spacious suites. They have everything you could want and more, including Roberts radios, hair straighteners and Ren products (some also come with wood-burning stoves or freestanding bath tubs). The Hotel is reopening in April with Robert Thompson, the youngest British chef to be awarded a Michelin star as Chef Patron. The cuisine will be Modern British with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and local seafood.

From March to late October, the heated outdoor pool is open and the dining terrace and cloistered garden come into their own.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1983 209453; northhouseiow.com 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE PIG BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of The Pig at Brockenhurst. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25-mile radius.

This local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of The Pig and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded

by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011.

Here at Brockenhurst, the hotel, which is celebrating its 11th year, is located in a handsome Georgian shooting lodge that stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on offer. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard. Calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic aesthetic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If The Pig at Brockenhurst is the country house, then this is its town cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton. Charmingly embraced by the city’s Medieval defensive walls, it’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train from London. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, and boil-your-own eggs, and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen-cumparlour. For lunch, you can graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as reception, too. Later, you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, head back to The Wall for a delicious dinner of freshly-prepared salads, hearty plates (such as Pie of the Day) and sweet treats, where you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 63

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About Turn, Brighton. By Lloyd Lane, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

THE HOME COUNTIES

From vineyards to funfairs, and chalk cliffs to cathedrals, these six unique counties are bursting with unforgettable things to see, do, eat and drink

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From visiting local vineyards on e-bikes to throwing away your phone when you arrive. By Amy Wakeham

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Silent Pool Distillery

Nestled deep in the Surrey Hills, next to the magical and atmospheric Silent Pool, is a distillery that takes a planet-first approach to production. There are solar panels, its organic waste is turned into methane then electricity, and it’s still powered by a repurposed steam boiler. Last year it launched Green Man Woodland gin, the first spirit in the world to be sold in a cardboard bottle. Book a tour to find out the full story. silentpooldistillers.com

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Pull on your wellies at Wye Community Farm

Reconnect with the land and support local food networks from with a trip to Wye Community Farm near Ashford, Kent. Owned and run by its members, the farm encompasses 120 acres of land, where its livestock plays a crucial role in maintaining the chalk grassland so nature can thrive. Get your hands dirty at a work party on Wednesday or Saturday. wyecommunityfarm.org.uk

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Do the Great Sussex Wine Tour by e-bike

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Get lost in the Living Rainforest

Home to a lush rainforest, planted over three tropical glasshouses, and incredible animals such as monkeys, snakes and armadillos, the Living Rainforest in Berkshire should be the first port of call for eco-curious types. It’s run by the Trust for Sustainable Living and aims to educate and inspire a new generation of Attenboroughs to protect and conserve the natural world. livingrainforest.org

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Earth Trust

The guardian of over 1,200 acres of farmland, woodland and wetland in Oxfordshire, the Earth Trust champions access to green space for all. Head to the visitor centre to learn about the area’s local wildlife, the work of the Trust’s conservation farm, and the effects climate change will have on our landscape. Then don your wellies and explore the nearby Wittenham Clumps or the Broad Arboretum. earthtrust.org.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; INNA KOSTUKOVSKY; REBECCA DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY

The Home Counties has some of the best vineyards in the world, producing lipsmackingly good wines. See some of Sussex’s finest by e-bike (or push bike, if your thighs are up to it) with a two-day self-guided cycle tour that also takes in some of the prettiest villages and the best views of the South Downs. thegreatsussexway.org

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THE HOME COUNTIES

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Switch off at Unplugged

Hide away from the bustling modern world at Unplugged, which offers a choice of beautifully designed, off-grid cabins only an hour or so from London. When you arrive at one of the Unplugged locations in Hertfordshire or Sussex, you immediately lock your phone away for the duration of your stay. Blissful. unplugged.rest

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Hike the North Downs Way National Trail

Explore the heart of the Home Counties by tackling the North Downs Way, a 153-mile trail that stretches from Surrey to the Kent coast, taking in wooded hills, magnificent valleys and several AONBs along the way. Whether you tackle the whole thing or just a section, it’s a low-carbon way to get lost in the British landscape. nationaltrail.co.uk

6

Walk on the wild side at Elmley Nature Reserve

A vast 3,300-acre wilderness on the Isle of Sheppey in the Thames, Elmley offers visitors endless skies, spectacular landscapes and an abundance of nature – it’s particularly good for bird watching. Elmley is also a family farm, with free-ranging cows and sheep playing a key role in maintaining the sward (grasslands) to maximise wildlife numbers. elmleynaturereserve.co.uk

7

Feast on fresh seafood at Angela’s

A seafood restaurant that puts people and planet first. Angela’s is based just a stone’s throw from the beach at Margate and serves up seafood fresh from the town’s day boats. It constantly strives to make its processes more planet-friendly, from reducing plastic to partnering with a local community garden to turn food waste to compost. angelasofmargate.com

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8

Take a class at Birch

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; INNA KOSTUKOVSKY; REBECCA DOUGLAS PHOTOGRAPHY

Just 30 minutes north of London is Birch, a buzzy new destination with 55 acres to explore, with 150 rooms, a lido, creative workshops, wellness space and a restaurant by Robin Gill. It was founded in reaction to the modern demand to be ‘on’ all the time. Its concept is inspired by traditional country estates, which were often circular in terms of their resources and produce. birchcommunity.com 8

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ALBION HOUSE RAMSGATE, KENT

The advent of Albion House is a story of triumph over adversity, and hope over experience – or rather inexperience. Arguably the most beautiful of all Ramsgate’s collection of Georgian and Regency buildings, it was rescued from neglect and is now a successful business run by Ben and Emma Irvine, who created a retro-chic boutique hotel and restaurant from its shell. Neither had any experience of hotel-keeping but sheer hard work, determination, good humour and bravery have seen them through triumphantly. Albion House, which was featured on Alex Polizzi’s The Hotel Inspector while it was being transformed, is now the stand-out place to stay in this fascinating yet often overlooked town. There are 14 beautiful bedrooms, 12 with direct sea views, which range from an accessible room on the lower ground floor through to cosy rooms in the eaves. The recently revamped Dining Rooms at Albion House, housed in a series of elegant Georgian rooms, overlooks Ramsgate’s Royal Harbour and serves an enticing menu, created using seasonal ingredients. A triumph for Ben and Emma and a great address for us.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1843 606630; albionhouseramsgate.co.uk

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX

The story of the Artist Residence group began 14 years ago when Justin and Charlie Salisbury first met as students. Justin’s mum, who’d just bought a Brighton guesthouse in need of renovation, was seriously injured in an accident and 20-year-old Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he filled the listed townhouse with artists, asking them to decorate the rooms in return for free board. And so, the first Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born. It was soon joined by four more, in Penzance (p32), Pimlico (p84), Oxford (p69), and Bristol (p48). The Brighton original has sea views and retro-style bedrooms ranging from tiny crash pads to a huge suite. The two newest art bedrooms were designed by Ben Eine and Pure Evil, while artists Maria Rivans, Charlie Anderson, Fox Fisher and Jessica Albarn have designed four other fabulous rooms.

There’s also a relaxed neighbourhood hangout serving breakfast, drinks and small plates.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidence.co.uk 68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners, Justin and Charlie Salisbury. This energetic couple, complete with new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. There are now five stunning bedrooms upstairs and a further three suites in the stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper.

The restaurant features art by the Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow, while the kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food (fish and chips, rump steak) in a fun and friendly setting. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance (p32), Pimlico (p84) or Brighton, opposite, then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your next country hideaway.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk

BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A short stroll from secluded Climping Beach, Bailiffscourt is a gorgeous medievalstyle house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms of all styles, spread throughout numerous charming houses and cottages in parkland. The newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. The more traditional – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The charming courtyard and rose garden are the ideal spots for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine. The name Bailiffscourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13thcentury chapel, which still stands in the grounds today.

Doubles from £315 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 69

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BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

Beaverbrook is a magnificent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played (several times) and it’s fabulous. Originally Cherkley Court, the former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century wedding cake architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and famous visitors, like Elizabeth Taylor and Rudyard Kipling. There’s Japanese cuisine in The Dining Room, stunning views of formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse and kids’ club. The separate brick and flint Garden House, with interiors

by Nicola Harding, offers a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant and 11 bedrooms. The Coach House Suites are perfect for families, totalling the number of rooms at 35. The crowning glory is the nature-based Coach House Health Club & Spa, designed by stained glass artist Brian Clarke, which offers an array of transformative wellness experiences curated by Spa Director Rene van Eyssen and her team. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.

Doubles from £570 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk

THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of our greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously GM at nearby Gravetye Manor, mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food from chef Alex Jacquemin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful.

‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many stunning gardens and vineyards nearby.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk 70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Built for the second Duke of Buckingham’s mistress in 1666, Cliveden House is an iconic property famed as a five-star setting for lavish entertaining and scandal. Standing in 376 acres of magnificent National Trust gardens and parkland, the hotel has 47 spacious rooms and suites in the elegant main mansion. Not forgetting Spring Cottage, a summerhouse on the banks of the River Thames, which is the ultimate in privacy and escapism. The property has two outstanding restaurants: the opulent chandeliered Cliveden Dining Room, which is complemented by the relaxed informality of The Astor Grill. A luxurious spa, open to members and hotel guests is the spot for relaxation; unwind by the indoor pool before wandering into the garden where you will find the ‘Profumo’ pool – the last remaining listed outdoor pool in England. Cliveden is imbued with a palpable sense of history, for this is a house that, for over 350 years, has been dedicated to the pursuit of pleasure, power and politics.

Club Room from £580 +44 (0)1628 607107; clivedenhouse.co.uk

THE CRAB & LOBSTER SIDLESHAM, WEST SUSSEX

A place for all seasons, this delightful 350-year-old hideaway and sibling of Halfway Bridge (p73) is stunningly located at Sidlesham Quay, a grassy expanse on the banks of Pagham Harbour nature reserve, once occupied by a tidal mill. Its views stretch to the distant sea across salt marsh and woodland, with a tracery of creeks. The four attractive, comfortable bedrooms in the recently refurbished 16th century inn, plus the two-bedroom Crab Cottage next door, are all decorated with stylish simplicity in restful shades. In the top-floor eyrie, there are binoculars for a closer look at that remarkable view, and plenty of extras in all the rooms from fridges to fresh flowers. Downstairs, you’ll find slate floors, pastel painted and bare brick walls, smart contemporary furniture, and an open fire. And dishes that are just right for the location: perhaps go for tandoori spiced monkfish or baked Selsey crab gratin with fennel marmalade and hasselback potatoes, paired with a crisp white wine – perfect. West Wittering beach, the cathedral city of Chichester and Goodwood Racecourse are all within easy reach.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1243 641233; crab-lobster.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 71

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THE GALLIVANT RYE, EAST SUSSEX

Happiness is a place and you’ll find it at The Gallivant. The sand between your toes.

Sky and beach as far as your eyes can see.

Wonderful food that celebrates the local area. Deeply comfortable beds in the 20 beautifully thought-out bedrooms. Relaxing yoga and wellness classes in the bright and airy yoga studio. Inspiring expert-led wine tasting and culinary experiences. But above all else, a warm and welcoming team with a clear mission: they want you to leave happy and inspired. The Complete Gallivant is a hotel package like no other (they’ve done their research). It includes energising breakfasts, all-day Elevenses, daily yoga classes, English wine and a delicious, seasonal dinner. Wanting to really unwind? The Beach Hut mini spa is a relaxing oasis offering restorative massage and facial treatments using Bamford’s natural and organic skincare.

Escaping from the city? Order from the new Drinks in the Dunes menu and you’ll get a world-class cocktail, conveniently packed with a beach blanket, so you can enjoy your sundowner on the beach in comfort and style.

Gallivant Essentials from £257 The Complete Gallivant from £389 +44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk

THE GROVE, HERTFORDSHIRE

PHOTOS: PAUL READ PHOTOGRAPHY

CHANDLERS CROSS, HERTFORDSHIRE

Set in 300 acres of Hertfordshire countryside, just 18 miles from London, The Grove is the ultimate five-star retreat. Over the last few years, the hotel has undergone an extensive refurbishment by award-winning interiors studio Martin Hulbert Design, and is now home to luxurious bedrooms, elegant Lounges and two unique restaurants, The Glasshouse and The Stables. A short stroll from the historic mansion, where 12 sumptuous suites overlook stunning gardens, you’ll find the newly refurbished Sequoia spa and, beyond that, the championship golf course that played host to the 2016 British Masters. The grounds offer all manner of activities, including Asher’s Woodland Trails featuring Segway experiences, archery and laser clay shooting.

The Grove’s hidden gem in spring and summer is its enchanting Walled Garden, complete with Ralph’s Beach (think sand, deckchairs, buckets and spades), a heated outdoor pool, Jemima’s Kitchen Garden, which provides homegrown produce for the chefs, and the rustic Potting Shed, a plant-filled haven which houses the Italian-inspired Verde Kitchen restaurant.

Doubles from £370 +44 (0)1923 807807; thegrove.co.uk 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE HALFWAY BRIDGE LODSWORTH, WEST SUSSEX

If you love the Crab & Lobster at Sidlesham (and who doesn’t? see p71), then make tracks for its younger sibling in the South Downs National Park. Near Petworth, it stands back from the A272, the only road we know to have had a book written about it: Ode to a Road, by Pieter Boogaart. The 250-year-old inn has been completely restored by owners Sam and Janet Bakose, and now has eight bedrooms fashioned from a beamed stable block that overlooks a sunny lawn, with woods to the rear. The five standard and three deluxe rooms are all individually styled and full of character, plus a new shepherd’s hut has just been added to the accommodation options.

Superior pub grub is served in a choice of intimate nooks that circle the central bar, with exposed brick walls, parquet floors, open fires and wood burners. For those looking for a private space, the beautiful party room seats 15 for an unforgettable celebration. Put simply, Sam and Janet have what it takes: good taste mixed with warmth, common sense and an assured, professional touch.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1798 861281; halfwaybridge.co.uk

HARE & HOUNDS, NEWBURY

PHOTOS: PAUL READ PHOTOGRAPHY

NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE

After many months of hard work, newlyrenovated 17th-century pub Hare & Hounds is celebrating a new dawn. Set at the foot of Newbury, in the beautiful village of Speen, it’s the type of place that suits everyone – be it for a fun-filled weekend, romantic escape or simply passing through. Plus, Newbury Racecourse is only a stone’s throw away. Dogs are welcomed with open arms, too. The 30 individual bedrooms, some with gorgeous roll-top copper bath tubs, are housed in four stylish buildings (The Stables, The Paddocks, The Hunter’s Lodge and The Coach House).

Each, complete with racing-themed fabric, is packed with all the charm and character of a traditional coaching inn yet brought bang up to date with a contemporary twist.

The Dining Room – settle down beside a crackling fire or in the garden – serves a menu of farm-to-table cuisine that celebrates local produce, accompanied by an impressive list of cocktails, craft beers and hand-picked wines. The Sunday Roast is fantastic, too, which you can walk off afterwards on the Berkshire Downs.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1635 521152; hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 73

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HARTWELL HOUSE VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you’d never normally have access.

One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings. The Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning rococo ceiling by Thomas Roberts of Oxford.

There’s also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall – the king’s wife, Marie Joséphine of Savoie, had them removed because their candlelit shadows frightened her. If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall & Spa (p142) and Middlethorpe Hall (p134), the hospitality is natural and easy-going, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand, and the food as delicious as you would expect. And the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight.

Doubles from £365 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com

HORSE & GROOM EAST ASHLING, WEST SUSSEX

This centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned pub was a local haunt of jeweller Annoushka Ducas and her businessman husband John Ayton for nearly 20 years before the pair decided to buy it in 2019. The pub had lost some of its charm, and their aim was to restore and redesign, putting it back at the centre of village life again. Now, there are 10 cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams and a palette of soft, calming hues. For the first time, the Horse & Groom has been included in the Michelin Guide for it’s delicious food, served in the dining room which has a backdrop of mid 20th-century paintings, a handcrafted oak floor, and interesting collections of Italian sardine pots and vintage gardening books.

Guests can polish off dishes such as local Selsey crab or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings.

Beers on tap in the bar include Hophead, a golden pale ale from Dark Star brewers in Partridge Green. Located four miles west of Chichester, on the edge of the South Downs National Park, it’s very popular with walkers and those attending events such as Qatar Goodwood Festival and the Festival of Speed.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub 74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HURLEY HOUSE HOTEL HURLEY, BERKSHIRE

It’s the friendly, laid-back atmosphere of this boutique hotel, along with its immaculate and stylish decoration, that impresses as soon as you enter. Following a lengthy refurbishment, it opened in 2016, standing on the site of an old inn just outside the pretty riverside village of Hurley, within easy reach of the capital and with perfect terraces for outdoor dining. Inside, the nine country-chic bedrooms in delicate shades of pale grey are spotless, with a cosy feel that’s enhanced by floorboards, beams, blankets and fresh flowers. All abound with little luxuries, some have freestanding roll-top baths, and one Superior Room has its own patio.

But what really makes Hurley House tick is the superb cooking, with a Japanese menu that’s second to none in Berkshire (think miso-roasted black cod with steamed rice and pickled ginger or teriyaki ribeye steak – simply divine), complemented by signature international dishes. You can eat in the rustic bar or in the restaurant, which are each tastefully done up in granite, leather, oak and natural brick.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1628 568500; hurleyhouse.co.uk

THE MITRE AT HAMPTON COURT EAST MOLESEY, SURREY

Set on the banks of the River Thames, overlooking the magnificent Hampton Court Palace, this two year-old hotel is a firm favourite with those in the know. Its history is quite the draw: housed in a Grade II-listed building dating back to 1665, it was originally used as ancillary accommodation for guests of King Charles II. It is the sister property to The Retreat at Elcot Park (p78).

Interiors lovers will swoon at the design, too. Here, Nicola Harding has curated the most photogenic, individually-styled bedrooms, all named after historical references linked to the hotel. Choose from views over the Thames, palace or charming internal courtyards. Then there’s the fantastic culinary offering. The Orangery has one of the largest riverside terraces on the Thames, along with the world’s first Whispering Angel concession – a blissful space for rosé sundowners as swans and little boats glide by. Grab one of the bay window tables at the riverside brasserie 1665, before ending the night at the popular Coppernose brasserie and bar.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 8979 9988; mitrehamptoncourt.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 75

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OATLANDS PARK HOTEL WEYBRIDGE, SURREY

Oatlands Park Hotel is the site where King Henry VIII married Catherine Howard, and it remains a Tudor jewel in Surrey’s crown to this day – even more so, following a multimillion pound renovation, making it fit for any king or queen. Interiors reflect the rich history and splendour of the hotel, its Italianate style and glistening chandeliers exuding decadence from the moment of arrival. All rooms are elegant, spacious and supremely comfortable – our favourites overlook Broadwater Lake and the simply magnificent grounds, which are protected for their special historic interest. The Mulberry restaurant has a similarly bucolic outlook, with far-reaching views over the Surrey countryside, while La Terrazza is the hotel’s newest addition, with a retractable roof and glass bi-folding doors that offer views over the lawns. What’s more, as one of the area’s most celebrated cocktail destinations, Bar 1509 takes you further into the night. With ten acres of gardens to explore, afternoon tea served daily, and a host of famous local attractions on offer, this is an ideal weekend retreat just a short drive from London.

Doubles from £109 B&B +44 (0)1932 847242; oatlandsparkhotel.com

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST SUSSEX

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden.

If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms, full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty.

And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, jacuzzi, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck, guest lounge and café. As for the six knockout first-floor bedrooms – they pack a thoroughly contemporary punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs.

Doubles from £232 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk 76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT

Every Pig hotel in this magnificent litter has its very own personality. Bridge Place on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury has a rock ’n’ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 29-bedroom, Grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house is set in the luscious Nailbourne valley that’s part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, while also containing a colourful recent past. The likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ CEO Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for effortless, laid-back chic. As with every other Pig, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just 56 minutes by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE SOUTH DOWNS MADEHURST, WEST SUSSEX

Set within the small hamlet of Madehurst, The Pig, high up on the South Downs in West Sussex, threw open its doors in September 2021 – complete with its own vineyard. And Pig owner Robin Hutson has done it again, creating a haven of rural bliss in one of his eight hotels. Only four miles from Arundel and a short drive to the yachting playground of Chichester, it is a brilliant base for exploring – but also great for hunkering down and relaxing. The 28 lovingly restored bedrooms are spread out between a higgledy-piggledy collection of traditional brick, flint and timber-clad stable yard buildings, together with Field and Garden Wagons. Each is unique and classically Pig – think indulgent fabrics, reclaimed wood, roll-top baths and locally-stocked larders. The wagons, tucked away in the walled garden or in the fields, are super cosy with log burners. The food, with its 25-Mile Menu, is, as ever, terrific. It is simple British food done well with a focus on local and homegrown produce – plus there’s a wideranging wine list and excellent kitchen gardeninspired cocktails to boot.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1234 974500; thepighotel.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 77

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THE RETREAT AT ELCOT PARK NEWBURY, WEST BERKSHIRE

A newly reimagined 18th-century country hotel and spa set in glorious grounds between Hungerford and Newbury, The Retreat at Elcot Park is the sister property to The Mitre at Hampton Court (p75). Bedrooms are colourful and full of character, combining antiques with contemporary art and patterned textiles.

Each suite is different: one has a copper rolltop bath in a bay window; another, a separate room with bunk beds for children.

The vibe is laid-back luxury so you can choose between 1772, a relaxed all-day brasserie or the smarter fine-dining PanAsian restaurant Yü (ideally try both).

There’s a children’s zone, an Ila spa and in the courtyard, a bakery, coffee spot, wine store and monthly farmers’ market. Active types can play games of tennis or croquet but in the summer, the place to be is at one of the cabanas, around the outdoor infinity pool, which has a Whispering Angel bar.

This is a new chapter for a country classic – and once you check in, there’s really no need to leave.

Doubles from £150; +44 (0)1635 800520; retreatelcotpark.com

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb inn in the charming village Yattendon. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with deep sofas and a huge open fire. In summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Nick MacGregor’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous new glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden. Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a threetiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. After a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head than in one of the ten light, airy bedrooms? A king-sized bed beckons, with luxury linens and gorgeous throws.

The newly refurbished bathrooms are also stocked with beautiful Bramley products for that long soak.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk 78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

The Spread Eagle elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary, spoiling treats. In the fine oak-beamed dining room, earthenware basins dangle from the ceiling as a tangible reminder that here puddings are still presented to guests every Christmas using a secret recipe that dates back decades, just as tradition dictates.

Yet the same coaching inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 100 different brands and 12 different tonics, plus garnishes from the garden. While the hotel’s main building dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of Midhurst’s historic market town, you will also find an impressive spa and indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. Plus, there’s a lovely lounge bar and conservatory where you can drink and dine, a terrace for relaxing and reading the papers, and bedrooms that are both chic and traditional, with crisp bathrooms. One sought-after room, the Queen’s Suite, has its own wig closet, while another has panelled walls hiding a secret passage reputedly used by fleeing smugglers.

Here, past and present live perfectly in-sync.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk

THE STAR ALFRISTON, EAST SUSSEX

The newest opening in The Polizzi Collection – and the first official joint venture by mother-daughter duo, Olga and Alex Polizzi – The Star is housed in a handsome timber-framed Tudor building on Alfriston high street. Rooms and suites are split between a 1930s building and 1960s wing, all decorated with Olga’s trademark flair: think nature-based blue and green schemes, Italian bedlinen and Carrara marble bathrooms.

On the ground floor, there’s a cosy library (curated by local bookshop Much Ado Books), a wooden-beamed bar in the original inn and the restaurant where head chef Tim Kensett (formerly of The River Café) serves up simple, unfussy dishes based around seasonal Sussex produce – from fried local sardines to charred South Downs lamb chops. In the summer though, the heart of the hotel is a pretty central courtyard ideal for long al fresco lunches and pre-supper drinks. Alfriston is a characterful village, right on the banks of the Cuckmere River; guests can pack a picnic and stride out in the direction of the sea. For a cultural fix, Glyndebourne opera house and Charleston are both close by.

Doubles from £210 +44 (0)1323 870495; thepolizzicollection.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 79

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

LONDON

Uplifting, yet exhausting. Enthralling, yet frustrating. The capital offers multitudinous experiences, yet never fails to cast its unique spell on visitors old and new

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Through The Gap, The City, London.

By Mang Sun, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From a B Corp barnet to a spin class that powers the lights. By Amy Wakeham

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Eat local with Growing Underground

Thirty-three metres below the streets of Clapham, there’s a food revolution happening.

Growing Underground cultivates microgreens and salad leaves in its farm, its hydroponic system using 70 per cent less water than traditional farming methods. Book a tour or buy its produce in M&S, Whole Foods, or online. growing-underground.com

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Catch a show at Arcola Theatre

Trailblazing east London theatre Arcola doesn’t just platform the most daring shows and up-and-coming talent, but it also aims to be the world’s first net zero theatre. It has reduced its footprint by 25 per cent since 2012, and has installed 24 square metres of solar panels to generate electricity, as well as a waste woodfired heating system for carbon-neutral heating. arcolatheatre.com

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Take a course at Edible Landscapes London

Edible Landscapes is a not-for-profit community project in Finsbury Park, north London, that specialises in forest gardening – a food growing design system that mimics natural ecosystems. Its courses, hosted by Edible Landscape’s expert team, act as an introduction to all things permaculture, from sowing seeds to composting. ediblelandscapeslondon.org.uk

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Hunt for vintage gems

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Lunch and learn at the Garden Museum

Celebrating British gardening past and present, the Garden Museum is a totally unique space next door to Lambeth Palace, and a treasure trove of invaluable resources for gardeners of all levels. Visitors can explore its exhibitions, permanent collection and beautiful gardens, and its award-winning café serves seasonal British cuisine and low-intervention wines. gardenmuseum.org.uk

PHOTOS: PAUL MARC MITCHELL

London is a haven for vintage boutiques, stuffed with fashion jewels from the last few decades and beyond. Head to Nordic Poetry in Bethnal Green for its curated style edits (nordicpoetry.co.uk); Laura Von Behr for flirty floral prints and fabulous frocks prints (lauravonbehr. com) and Found and Vision on Portobello for its high-fashion finds (foundandvision.com).

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LONDON

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Shop consciously at Pavilion Road, Chelsea

Run by the Cadogan Estate, a member of the Better Buildings Partnership Climate Commitment, Pavilion Road is a haven of small, independent businesses, many with strong eco credentials. It offers a peaceful place to stop for a coffee and the chance to do a spot of shopping in the heart of Chelsea. pavilionroad.co.uk

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Eat at the Canteen Collective

A group of three restaurants around London, and one in Sevenoaks, Canteen Collective is working hard to achieve its goal of reaching net zero by 2025. From meat to vegetables, all its produce is locally sourced. In fact, it recently announced its Ealing branch was actually climate positive – removing more CO2 from the atmosphere than it emits. canteen-collective.com

Sweat it out at Terra Hale

The capital’s first eco-friendly fitness chain, Terra Hale (which means ‘strong earth’) has three studios in Shepherd’s Bush, Fulham and Notting Hill. Here, the spin classes power the lights, everything from the yoga mats to the reclaimed-wood floors and the rubber floor are made from recycled materials, and the walls are lined with air-purifying plants. A feel-good factor that won’t be beaten. terrahale.com

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Watch a show at the Lexi Cinema

London’s only social-enterprise cinema, the Lexi in Kensal Rise is run by volunteers and donates 100 per cent of its distributable profits to The Sustainability Institute in South Africa. This in turn runs educational and food programmes and ecological research initiatives, supporting the local community, businesses and nature. thelexicinema.co.uk

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Book a haircut at a Blue Tit Salon

A certified B Corp business and the first hairdressing group to attain the status, Blue Tit can be found across London. Not only does it do great hair, but you can leave feeling assured that your appointment had a minimal impact on the environment.

It uses renewable energy, a zero-to-landfill waste management system, and is passionate about equal opportunities for all. bluetitlondon.com

PHOTOS: PAUL MARC MITCHELL

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA, SW3

A proudly individual boutique hotel, 11 Cadogan Gardens, part of the Relais & Châteaux collection, is located in the heart of Chelsea. Here, you should expect nothing less than five-star luxury, quirky design and a playful vibe. Spread across four interconnected red-brick Victorian townhouses, it has 56 guest rooms, including 22 suites that are as memorable as they are luxurious (one is especially flamboyant and a little risqué). Each is fabulous in its own individual way but all have high ceilings and a wealth of natural light that floods through the bay windows. The hotel has a Drawing Room, the Chelsea Bar, and the popular Hans’ Bar & Grill, which has an all-day seasonal menu rooted in British produce – ideal locations for afternoon teas, late night cocktails, family breakfasts and everything in between.

Looking for a little more privacy or a longer stay? Located a stone’s throw from the hotel, across the leafy and private garden square, sit The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens.

Each floor features a one, two or threebedroom residence, offering a true home from home in the heart of London.

Superior Queen Room from £360 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com

ARTIST RESIDENCE PIMLICO, SW1

PHOTOS: KITTY FISHER; ANTONY WELLER

The third hotel from the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie Salisbury – following their Artist Residences in Brighton (p68) and Penzance (p32) – this was once just a down-at-heel local boozer.

Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. Over three elegant floors it has ten comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds. There’s a moody and glamorous bar tucked away in the basement that comes alive at night, serving drinks inspired by cult movies: try the Kill Bill, which comes with a black vanilla sugar stripe, or Smoke & Mirrors, featuring brandy, orange liqueur and caramel syrup. And taking centre stage is the cafe, a welcoming social space by day, serving brunch, cold-pressed juices and Extract Coffee, which transforms into a modern restaurant at night. Even better, a separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check-in at the bar.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 3019 8610; artistresidence.co.uk 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name.

Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (p90 & p93), it was inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens in a grand style. The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books and fine paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel.

Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with antique carved beds or fourposters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period fittings. Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. Your most difficult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our choice is the Tapestry Room, with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits (plus a cocktail recipe book) and French doors that open onto a quiet courtyard.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com

THE BEAUMONT

PHOTOS: KITTY FISHER; ANTONY WELLER

MAYFAIR W1

Overlooking a quiet garden square in the heart of Mayfair, The Beaumont has embodied the spirit of grand 1920s hotels – albeit on a far more intimate scale – since it opened in 2014. Now, the ground floor has had a gentle refresh. A classy joint (with chequerboard lobby floor, early 20th-century paintings and gleaming antiques), subtle changes include the redesigned Magritte Bar; a new all-day dining and afternoon tea lounge; and for the first time, a terrace for light, al fresco lunches and suppers among lush greenery. The striking muralled Colony Grill Room has kept its clubby atmosphere with red leather banquettes where guests can feast on timeless transatlantic classics.

The 50 Art Deco-themed rooms and 22 suites are handsome, sensible and supremely comfortable: the showstopper is Antony Gormley’s ROOM, a three-storey architectural extension and public artwork on the outside, an extraordinary onebedroom suite of dark-fumed oak within. Try the added luxury of the hammam and spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at London’s RAC Club and the original New York YMCA. Doubles from £490 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 85

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BINGHAM RIVERHOUSE RICHMOND, TW10

The Bingham Riverhouse neighbourhood Members’ Club, where locals come to work, rest and play, includes a tranquil Thameside workspace, incredible events and private members’ space for its ever-growing community of local, like-minded individuals.

The friendly staff serve food, conjured up by Steven Edwards (winner of MasterChef: The Professionals) in the parlour, with its striking modern art and verdant views, and in the library with its wall lined by rows of nicely dogeared old Penguin paperbacks. The drawing room bar has the spacious feel of a country house kitchen. There are 15 bedrooms, with handmade Naturalmat beds and some with copper freestanding baths. But it’s the bucolic Richmond setting that adds that extra magic: the river is just at the end of the terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats splash by all day.

The Riverhouse began life as two Georgian townhouses and from 1899-1910 it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper.

‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; binghamriverhouse.com

BROWN’S HOTEL MAYFAIR, W1

Archetypally British, with a hint of the unexpected, Brown’s was founded in 1837 by Lord Byron’s butler as London’s first hotel.

Today, this five-star delight is part of the Rocco Forte Hotels umbrella, with rooms and suites curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, the brand’s founder and namesake. Each pays tribute to the hotel’s heritage: the Kipling Suite honours Rudyard Kipling, who penned The Jungle Book while staying here. Find afternoon tea in The Drawing Room, where original wood panelling complements wallpaper of a Hogwarthian 19th-century London. This space transforms into The Supper Club at sundown, serving British comfort food, with cocktails, live music and game nights. The Donovan Bar, in honour of celebrated photographer Terence Donovan, has a ‘Once Upon a Time’ cocktail menu by ‘Maestro’ Salvatore Calabrese inspired by past guests, from AA Milne to Winston Churchill. Meanwhile, Charlie’s at Brown’s, helmed by head chef Adam Byatt of Michelinstarred Trinity and overseen by Director of Hospitality Jesus Adorno, offers a seasonal menu. There’s a luxurious subterranean spa with indulgent Irene Forte products.

Doubles from £650 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com 86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

BULGARI HOTEL LONDON KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW7

Perfectly positioned between Hyde Park and Sloane Street, Bulgari Hotel London is the ultimate city escape. Elegant contemporary architecture and Bulgari’s legendary flair for design are matched with authentic and impeccable service. Generously proportioned rooms and suites are combined with unrivalled facilities, including The Bulgari Spa’s 25-metre swimming pool, 12 single treatment rooms including one private spa suite, a pioneering Workshop Gymnasium with on-site personal training team, a private cinema and a beautiful ballroom. Recently refreshed, The Bulgari Lounge offers elegant all-day dining featuring a new ‘Dolci’ (all the sweet bits) menu in the comfort and glamour of an Italian-style living room. Sette by Scarpetta, an independently operated restaurant located on the ground floor, is the first London location of LDV Hospitality’s Scarpetta Restaurant concept from New York City, serving authentic Italian food with its own inimitable flair. Nolita Social lies beneath the restaurant, an underground bar and lounge that brings the energy of ‘the New York night’ to London with a heady mix of crafted cocktails, live music and DJs. Doubles from £690 +44 (0)20 7151 1010; bulgarihotels.com

THE CADOGAN, A BELMOND HOTEL CHELSEA, SW1

A stand out on Sloane Street, The Cadogan’s sleek and glamorous good looks may recall well-heeled neighbouring Knightsbridge, but its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is in here too. There are bold checked uniforms that reference Mary Quant, books and author talks curated by beloved Chelsea bookshop John Sandoe, specially commissioned art from young artists, and recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the caférestaurant, The LaLee. Offering delightful European dishes, the sophisticated menu, which features the very best of the season, reflects the refined tastes that seduced Lillie on her travels. The Cadogan first opened in 1887, but a recent makeover made the bedrooms and suites stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables doubling as desks and statement paintings from female British artists. They took their inspiration from the private gardens opposite – so can you, as guests get keys, a wonderful perk.

Doubles from £650 +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 87

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CORINTHIA LONDON WESTMINSTER, SW1

A luxury hotel for the 21st century, with the river and central London at its door.

It doesn’t matter which entrance you use – Northumberland Avenue or Whitehall Place – you’ll be struck by the wow-factor elegance of the Corinthia’s Crystal Moon Lounge, lit by a dramatic Baccarat chandelier and a must for afternoon tea. Originally built in the 1880s as the Metropole Hotel and later home to government departments, it opened in its present incarnation in 2011 after a super-lavish refit. Now there’s plenty to impress: modern British cuisine at The Northall, with its own magnificent bar; Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s first London venture, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, with a menu of classic dishes; al fresco drinking and dining in The Garden.

Corinthia London also boasts some of the city’s most spacious hotel bedrooms (there are 283 sumptuous rooms, suites and penthouses), as well as a multi awardwinning spa covering four entire floors.

There is a state-of-the-art fitness centre, sleep pods, an amphitheatre sauna, steam rooms and a vitality pool.

Doubles from £650 +44 (0)20 7930 8181; corinthia.com

DORSET SQUARE HOTEL MARYLEBONE, NW1

The first of Firmdale’s vibrant and welcoming city hotels, opened in 1985 by multi-talented husband and wife team Tim and Kit Kemp. It’s a beautiful London townhouse, with some gentle decorative reminders that it overlooks the site of Thomas Lord’s first cricket ground, Dorset Square. There are cricket bats arranged like works of art, miniature balls used as wardrobe door handles, photographs and cartoons of famous cricketers and other memorabilia, all incorporated into Kit’s sophisticated interiors. Her style is witty, contemporary and bold, combining strong colours and contrasting fabrics, enhanced by exciting modern art. There’s an elegant drawing room with an honesty bar and fireplace, and 38 seductive bedrooms, many overlooking the private Dorset Square garden, to which guests have access. The Potting Shed restaurant serves exceptional modern British food, with a clever lighting installation by Martha Freud.

Ask reception supervisor Edyta Gurgul for her insider tips on local shopping and what’s on at the theatre.

Doubles from £300 +44 (0)20 7723 7874; firmdalehotels.com 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

THE GORING BELGRAVIA, SW1

Opened in 1910 and still in the same family, The Goring is impeccably English. But although it’s a grand, dignified institution, it never takes itself too seriously, possessing what so many smart hotels lack: a sense of humour.

Where else does Noël Coward sing Mad Dogs and Englishmen while your call is being connected? Its rooms are world-renowned as some of the most luxurious in the city, pairing great comfort with undeniable wow-factor glamour. The Royal Suite’s master bedroom walls are lined with the same silk that graced the first class dining room of RMS Titanic in 1912, while the silk in the bathroom is a match for that adorning the Throne Room at Buckingham Palace. Its huge private garden – larger than Wimbledon’s Centre Court – is The Goring’s secret glory. An exquisite floral oasis, over which many of the rooms and suites look out, it’s a soothing haven amid London’s hubbub, perfect for a glass of wine or a bite to eat, while the Michelin-starred Dining Room restaurant remains a favourite address for the finest fine dining. Head to the elegant Goring Cocktail Bar for an after-dinner digestif, accompanied by the live pianist.

Doubles from £590 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com

GREAT SCOTLAND YARD HOTEL WESTMINSTER, SW1

Expect the unexpected at one of London’s most historic and cherished buildings.

Dedicated to delight, the hotel holds more hidden stories than any other kind in London as the former headquarters of the Metropolitan Police. It has been completely rebuilt and extended by two floors, and has rooms in calm, neutral palettes (no two are the same). The ground floor is split into various bars and restaurants including the flagship Ekstedt at The Yard, run by Michelin-star chef Niklas Ekstedt, known for his signature style of wood fired ‘old Nordic’ cooking. There’s also The Parlour, a whimsical lounge for afternoon tea in collaboration with Floris London, the only appointed perfumery to Her Majesty The Queen (the tea cakes and pastries are inspired by its seasonal fragrances); Síbín bar which specialises in whisky; and The 40 Elephants, the hub of the hotel named after the UK’s first all-female gang and serves delightful cocktails. This spring saw the launch of The Townhouse, a private residence next to the hotel on the site that was once home to H.R.H. The King of Scotland.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7925 4700; greatscotlandyard.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 89

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HAZLITT’S SOHO, W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart. The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and prints, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (p85 & p90), they are delightfully different from other London hotels. And don’t forget to greet Sir Godfrey, the hotel’s resident cat, who still hasn’t checked out after 11 years.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE

PHOTOS: JONATHON SWIFT

MARYLEBONE, W1

Set in the former home of Jane Austen’s favourite brother Henry, this discreet exclusive use townhouse hotel is a home-from-home in Marylebone that also feels like a smart members’ club for up to 14 guests. Full of Georgian glamour, original period features and sophisticated yet cosy spaces, it is the result of a collaboration between the owners and in-demand interior designer Russell Sage. Seven sumptuous bedrooms, all named after Jane Austen’s relatives, come with four poster beds, roll-top baths, oil paintings and antiques. Breakfast is served at the refectory table in Monsieur Halavant’s Pantry Kitchen (it’s also the spot for meetings and private dinners) while Jane’s Sitting Room is ideal for afternoon tea or simply curling up with a book. The townhouse comes complete with a private house manager, daily housekeeping, continental breakfasts and delightful fresh flowers. Chef and butler services can also be arranged. Don’t miss the first-floor landing carriage snug, based on a railway carriage, where you can squirrel away for a glass of wine, or the outdoor terrace for morning coffee looking out over the neighbourhood below.

Exclusive use from £4,950 per night +44 (0)7557 100892; henrystownhouse.co.uk 90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

LIME TREE HOTEL LONDON, SW1

It’s rare to find an affordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more, it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse, which is spread across two Grade II-listed townhouses, from Charlotte’s parents more than a decade ago. After a major six-month refurbishment in 2020, this delightful bolthole has 26 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms each with pretty geometric patterned cushions and a Roberts Radio, and Bramley goodies in the bathroom. There’s also a cosy guest lounge and The Buttery, a café-style restaurant (open to the public) full of chatter where friendly staff serve up delicious breakfasts and an all-day brunch menu plus dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. When the weather allows, relaxing outside in the peaceful walled garden feels like having discovered a magical secret oasis, a whole world away from the heady bustle of nearby Sloane Square.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk

THE LONDONER

PHOTOS: JONATHON SWIFT

LEICESTER SQUARE

When this super-boutique hotel opened in 2021, it was a much-needed boost for Leicester Square. Six years in the making and spread across 16 storeys, it’s all bellsand-whistles – from the two-screen cinema to the vast ballroom and the subterranean wellness floor where the tranquil pool is surrounded by cabanas (ideal for escaping the West End bustle). Sleek, serene interiors with a neutral palette come courtesy of international design studio Yabu Pushelberg (those staying in the hotel have access to The Residence, three guest-only socialising spaces). There is also a handful of must-try bars and restaurants, including French fine dining Whitcomb’s with influences from the Mediterranean; Joshua’s Tavern, inspired by 18th-century artist Joshua Reynolds which specialises in terroir-led gins; and The Stage which is the place for a grown-up afternoon tea or glass of champagne (there’s often live music at weekends). Perhaps the biggest buzz though is 8 at The Londoner, the izakaya rooftop bar with a terrace offering topdraw cityscape views.

Doubles from £555 +44 (0)20 7451 0101; thelondoner.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 91

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE MAYFAIR, W1

Located on Half Moon Street, alongside Piccadilly, The Mayfair Townhouse sits across 15 Georgian townhouses, seven of which are listed. Rich in history and once a known haunt for colourful characters, it evokes a debonair Oscar-Wilde-meetsAlice-in-Wonderland aesthetic. Touches of whimsy combine with practicality in the 172 individually designed guestrooms and suites which range from cosy cabins to a Garden Suite that opens onto a walled courtyard garden. The Dandy Bar is the heart and soul of The Townhouse; an intimate and sophisticated cocktail bar where style meets decadence, while The Lower Ground is a vibrant space to work, connect and eat. An expertly curated collection of over 550 pieces of art, including a Swarovski crystal peacock sculpture, is woven seamlessly throughout the hotel. Stepping out into the heart of Mayfair, there is a wealth of restaurants, boutiques, art galleries and museums on the doorstep; a short walk leads to Shepherd Market, Green Park and Buckingham Palace.

Classic from £466 +44 (0)20 8138 3400; themayfairtownhouse.com

ONE ALDWYCH COVENT GARDEN, WC2

PHOTOS: PAUL WHITBREAD

Housed in an iconic heritage building that was once home to the Morning Post, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned on the edge of bustling Covent Garden. Contemporary yet soothing suites and bedrooms feel like a real sanctuary and come with sweeping views of the cityscape below. There are two exquisite restaurants: the first is informal Indigo, which celebrates British producers in delicious dishes such as nutty beetroot salad or catch of the day, served in crisp beer batter. The second is Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, the London home of superstar Spanish chef Eneko Atxa of three-Michelin star Azurmendi restaurant fame. The Lobby Bar with its extensive list of the coolest craft cocktails is an institution; the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-themed afternoon tea is huge fun for all ages, featuring snozzberry jam and chocolate swudge milkshake. The concierge has the inside track on everything from the best brunch spots and hottest theatre tickets to the must-visit exhibitions. And, for pampering – whether a refreshing swim, a pick-me-up facial or an invigorating massage – you can while away a few hours in the deeply cosseting health club and spa.

Doubles from £600 +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

THE PORTOBELLO HOTEL NOTTING HILL, W1

A bohemian boutique hotel, nestled in a leafy corner of Notting Hill. In room 16, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp filled the Victorian bath with champagne, Alice Cooper kept his snakes in it, and Tim Burton flooded the room by leaping from the bed into the bath and back again.

The Stones, U2, Tina Turner and many other starry names also stayed at The Portobello in its heyday. In 2014, it was given a new lease of life by Peter and Jessica Frankopan of A Curious Group of Hotels, which includes L’Hôtel in Paris and Canal House in Amsterdam. Today’s look encapsulates the bohemian spirit of Portobello Road in the Swinging Sixties and that famous bed and bath are still there, among many other items from the hotel’s decadent past. Rooms, however, have been brought forward and the decoration updated using bold colours. Even the attic rooms have been cleverly enlarged.

There’s no restaurant but breakfast in bed or the cosy lounge are on offer, as well as an honesty bar with antique crystal glasses from Portobello Market.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)20 7727 2777; portobellohotel.com

THE ROOKERY

PHOTOS: PAUL WHITBREAD

CLERKENWELL, EC1

Those in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books.

In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-do-wells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky floors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only moments away from St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tate Modern.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 93

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ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

With its winning combination of English heritage meets contemporary sophistication, Rosewood London sits firmly in the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels. The Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought iron-gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard, with its majestic stone facades while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites, splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance and the jewel box Mirror Room restaurant, which serves an innovative art-inspired afternoon tea that changes depending on London’s latest art exhibitions. Martin Brudnizki designed both the Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with a trendy gin bar – and the wildly popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with paintings by satirist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s head chef Calum Franklin’s Pie Room, dedicated to one of Britain’s most iconic dishes. Suites come with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless.

Doubles from £500 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com

SLOANE PLACE CHELSEA, SW1

PHOTOS: WILL PRYCE

Tucked away in a historical Chelsea brownstone, this boutique retreat, just off Sloane Square, is one of those deliciously hidden gems, with access to The Roof Terrace at The Sloane. Sister to the Sloane Club, this chic neighbourhood hotel and restaurant is a short walk from world-class galleries, shops, restaurants and bars. The 27 ensuite bedrooms are contemporary yet classic, spanning from Cosy (ideal for solo travellers) to Suite which even has a separate living room to unwind in after a day out in the city. Each one includes a super comfortable Hypnos bed, Nespresso machines and a small writing desk. The stylish Sloane Place Restaurant – a buzzy café by day, a classy yet unpretentious restaurant at night – offers contemporary British-Javanese menus from breakfast till late. Order the blueberry pancakes, bao buns or mouth-watering native lobster and tiger prawn burger. The wine and cocktail list is second to none, too, curated to compliment the menu and seasons.

Afterwards, settle down for Sloane Sessions at the newly-refurbished Hideaway – an unforgettable evening of live music, cocktails and canapes every Thursday.

Doubles from £300 B&B +44 (0)20 3928 0700; sloaneplace.com 94 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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LONDON

ST. PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL KING’S CROSS, NW1

This Gothic masterpiece has been part of the London landscape since the 1870s when it was designed by prolific architect Sir George Gilbert Scott for the Midland Railway. In the 20th century, it declined before being spectacularly restored and reopened with great fanfare in 2011. Today, guests can choose between suites in the heritage Chambers Wing or the contemporary luxury of the Barlow Wing.

The St. Pancras Spa, located in the original underground kitchens, is a peacock-themed haven of tranquillity. The two restaurants hit all the right notes, too – including Booking Office 1869, housed in the former ticket office, which opened in November 2021 to mark the hotel’s 10th anniversary. Imagined by Parisian designer Hugo Toro, it’s a magnificent scene of eccentric patterns, dazzling lighting features and towering palm trees – complete with resident DJs. The menu, overseen by Patrick Powell (previously of Chiltern Firehouse), is classic with a modern twist – plus there’s a live Raw Bar serving market oysters. There’s also the Hansom Bar & Lounge which is unapologetically British, serving afternoon tea by day and cocktails by night.

Doubles from £289 +44 (0)20 7841 3540; stpancraslondon.com

THE TRAFALGAR ST JAMES

PHOTOS: WILL PRYCE

TRAFALGAR SQUARE

Part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, The Trafalgar St. James is brilliantly positioned on the edge of St James Park and Trafalgar Square, and just moments from Soho, Mayfair and the West End. This luxury hotel blends innovative bold design and thoughtful service with excellent dining and nightlife – a true sanctuary to work, rest and play. Guests can choose between 128 spacious guest rooms three signature suites with each suite enjoying a spectacular view of Trafalgar Square. On the ground floor, destination cocktail bar Rockwell is a must-visit for cocktail lovers with an innovative menu from an expert bar team. They also serve Tipple Tea; a food and cocktail experience that is an exciting alternative to afternoon tea. The Rooftop on the seventh floor is the jewel in this hotel’s crown. From the canopy-covered al fresco seating and glass-walled interior, the sensational city skyline is the backdrop for incredible cocktails and a delicious seasonally changing European-inspired food menu.

The Rooftop is the perfect spot to unwind, relax and soak up those London views, especially at sunset.

Doubles from £313 +44 (0)20 7870 2900; trafalgarstjames.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 95

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Chesterton Windmill, Chesterton, Warwickshire. By Philip George, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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THE COTSWOLDS Come for the chocolate box cottages and pastoral bliss; stay for the glorious local produce, thoughtful restaurants, and majestic ruins

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TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From the finest local produce to kitting out your home with cool antiques. By Ellie Smith

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Discover the home of Daylesford

No green Cotswolds list would be complete without a mention of Daylesford, one of the UK’s pioneers in sustainable farming.

Since being founded by Lady Carole Bamford in 2002, the site near Kingham has grown into an eco-empire complete with an organic farm where animals roam freely on organic pastures, plus a shop, spa and cookery school. daylesford.com

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Do some tree hugging at Westonbirt Arboretum

Trees are often called the lungs of the earth, helping the planet to breathe. Celebrate them at Westonbirt, The National Arboretum, home to 2,500 species of tree from all over the world – many rare and endangered. Connect with nature from a new vantage point by wandering along the 300-metre treetop walkway and embarking on one of the sensory trails. forestryengland.uk

While exploring the Cotswolds, swap your car for two-wheeled travel. Green-thinking spot Wild Carrot offers a range of bikes for hire as well as tours for all types of cyclist – whether you fancy a potter along quiet lanes or a more adventurous trail ride. Afterwards, pop into the café for a coffee or stay overnight in one of its tipis. wildcarrot.co.uk

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Stock up your larder at Stroud Farmers’ Market

Damien Hirst and Cath Kidston are both regulars at Stroud Farmers’ Market, a haven of local produce famed for its lively atmosphere.

Stock up on Siddington Farm strawberries, The Cotswold Curer free-range salami, Wiltshire chillies and organic beers from Stroud Brewery – and don’t leave without tucking into a doughnut from Pippin & Co, a local favourite. fresh-n-local.co.uk

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Dine at Ox Barn at Thyme

Head chef and co-owner Charlie Hibbert – who refined his skill at London’s Quo Vadis – showcases his love of the land at the Ox Barn, one of the restaurants on the Thyme estate.

Located inside a revamped stone barn that once housed oxen, the rustic eatery offers seasonally changing farm-to-table menus created using ingredients from the kitchen garden. thyme.co.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PAUL GROOM;

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Embark on a bike tour of the Cotswolds

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THE COTSWOLDS

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Go antiques shopping in Tetbury

Spruce up your home in a sustainable way and incorporate antiques into the mix. The honey-stoned town of Tetbury is one of the prettiest in the Cotswolds and it’s filled with antique shops.

One of the best is Brownrigg, a three-floored emporium jam-packed with pieces from the 17th to mid-20th century. brownrigg-interiors.co.uk

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Forage for your dinner

Channel your inner hunter-gatherer at hidden gem Cerney House Gardens, which runs foraging courses throughout the year. You’ll learn all about foraging laws and discover seasonal edible species from fruits to mushrooms, and get recipe ideas for your findings – all amid the scenic walled garden setting. foragingcoursecompany.co.uk

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Catch your own dinner at Bibury Trout Farm

Netflix’s Seaspiracy documentary put the fishing industry under a spotlight, but many British producers are doing things right. One of them is Bibury Trout Farm, where fish food is sustainably sourced and the density of fish in the lakes is kept low to ensure a spacious, mineral-rich environment.

Visit to go fishing and host a barbecue under an on-site gazebo. biburytroutfarm.co.uk

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Sip organic cider in a Cheltenham taproom

Long before it was fashionable, Dunkertons Organic Cider founders Ivor and Susie were making organic cider from their home in Herefordshire.

Working with nature is at the heart of the company: orchards grow with minimum intervention and serve as sanctuaries for wildlife. Stop by the taproom in Cheltenham for a tipple or two. dunkertonscider.co.uk

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Wander around Miserden

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © PAUL GROOM;

A family-run estate overlooking the Golden Valley, Miserden is a sight to behold. The venue is taking big strides in the sustainability world; recent initiatives include introducing a biomass boiler which provides heat and hot water for all properties in the village. Soak up the magnificent views, then have tea at the greenhouse café. miserden.org 6

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BELL INN LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE

Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th-century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. They reopened The Bell – a much-loved local in a picturesque village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks. ‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren.

It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a no-nonsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood-fired fish, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and flagstoned room. The eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground floor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms.

You’ll be hard pushed to find a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn and arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and fishing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllangford.com

THE DOUBLE RED DUKE CLANFIELD, COTSWOLDS

Awarded Best Restaurant in the newcomer category at the Food and Travel Awards 2021, this wisteria-clad coaching inn close to Oxford is the most recent of Sam and Georgie Pearman’s Country Creatures collection of rural restaurants and inns (it includes The Swan in Ascott-under-Wychwood, p103, and The Chequers in Churchill). Guests can hunker down in one of the cosy sitting rooms for drinks before heading to the open-plan bar and garden room for – the biggest draw – the food. Henrik Ritzén (of Bluebird fame) cooks over live fire; book the Chef’s counter to be at the heart of the action. Think charred squid, smoked aubergine and miso dip, the best longhorn steaks and crème brûlée for dessert.

Upstairs, comfortable rooms (the biggest sleep a family of four) with original wooden beams shine a spotlight on British artisans.

Upholstered furniture is designed by George Smith, fabrics are from Fermoie and wallpaper is by Rapture and Wright. There is also a shepherd’s hut in the herb garden for massages using all-natural, botanical 100 Acres products.

The garden room for up to 40 and a 12-seater feasting room can both be hired for parties.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1367 810222; countrycreatures.com 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored, sumptuous Cotswoldstone manor, parts of which date back to the 15th century. In the 1830s, it was home to the Earl of Ellenborough, former governor general of India – the influence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery. Legendary British designer Nina Campbell has reinvented the interior, with 61 classically English bedrooms furnished with antiques, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and roll top baths. There’s an outdoor pool which is heated all year around, and an intimate spa, as well as a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. Food is contemporary, serving British classics with a twist. Spring and summer months see an al fresco dining delight in quirky dining carriages, decked Cedar Pavilion and sunny Taittinger Terrace. Guests can enjoy a glass of house Champagne from the converted horse box trailer bar while watching the sunset across the racecourse. Dogs are very welcome, with treats and their own wash area – The Paw Spa. Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com

THE FEATHERED NEST INN NETHER WESTCOTE

A beacon among the new breed of converted inns, The Feathered Nest is as comfortable, stylish and well-equipped as a fine hotel, but smaller and more relaxed. Attractively laid out and furnished, this handsome property is triumphing under its new owner, Adam Taylor.

The four countrified bedrooms (Cuckoo’s Den, Cockerel’s Roost, Pheasant Nest and Dove Cote), with breathtaking views of the Evenlode Valley, blend the practical with the luxurious, kitted out with Nespresso coffee machines, gleaming antiques, books and magazines.

Plus there’s a new super cosy one-bedroom cottage, which combines period charm and contemporary elegance, with flagstone flooring, exposed fire mantle and wooden beams. In the rustic chic dining room or outside on the terrace, the modern British food is as impressive as the bedrooms. Head chef Matthew Weedon (who was previously awarded Michelin stars at Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire and Lords of the Manor in Gloucestershire) sources ingredients locally, and his menus change with the seasons – try the six-course tasting menu. There’s an excellent wine list (one of the largest in the Cotswolds) to boot.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1993 833030; thefeatherednestinn.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 101

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THE KINGHAM PLOUGH KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

The Kingham Plough has always been far more than a traditional gastropub. Since being taken over by Matt and Kate Beamish in 2019, this 17th-century Cotswolds gem has had a sensitive renovation of its public spaces, courtyard garden and six en-suite bedrooms refurbished in chic, contemporary style with vintage furniture, soft mohair blankets and beautiful bathrooms, two with rolltop baths, and two dog-friendly rooms. The kitchen team champions local artisan produce and sources the very best fresh, local, seasonal ingredients for the flavourful modern British dishes with Mediterranean influences, alongside pub classics on the all-day bar and à la carte menus.

Everything is made in-house except for the sourdough loaves, delivered daily by Marks Cotswold Bakery. Expect pub classics – fish and chips, Ploughman’s boards, cheeseburgers – alongside more innovative dishes such as Tamworth pork ribeye and pea and mint tortellini. Behind the bar, there’s seasonal cocktails, craft ales and traditional local beers

by Hook Norton Brewery and, on its carefully curated wine list, 16 wines by the glass and 61 by the bottle. Eat well, sleep well.

Doubles from £150 B&B +44 (0)1608 658327; thekinghamplough.co.uk

THE LYGON ARMS BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Originally a 14th-century coaching inn, The Lygon Arms is a luxury hotel with 86 unique guestrooms and suites, located in the heart of the Cotswolds. Over the years it has played host to many famous guests: King Charles I met here with his supporters, giving his name to the impressive ‘Charles I Suite’. Further proving its universal appeal, Oliver Cromwell also occupied a room here immediately before his victory at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Relax next to a roaring fire in one of the cosy lounges or book a table in the outstanding Lygon Bar & Grill where 80 per cent of the menu features ingredients sourced within a 60-mile radius.

Alternatively, a delectable afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the Russell Room (furry fourlegged friends are also welcome, see page 15), or unwind in The Lygon Arms’ fabulous spa and leisure club, which has a Victorian galleried swimming pool and a range of rejuvenating and blissful beauty treatments on offer. There are four EV charging points too, so eco-minded guests are well catered for.

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NO 131 CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This is the hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, fashionable on the inside. There are 36 fabulous guestrooms, with quirky detailing, divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold fabrics, original artwork from some of the UK’s biggest names and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. Then there’s hangouts, hideaways and sun-dappled terraces aplenty with outdoor bars and al fresco dining. Streetside elegance abounds at 131 Terrace Restaurant and its exquisite food is complemented downstairs by the relaxed buzz of Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with its resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefullysourced food, menus range from indulgent afternoon teas with bubbles and decadent suppers to hearty Sunday lunches, and there’s even a coffee menu, including No 131’s own unique house blend. Don’t miss YOKU, the hotel’s fantastic new Japanese restaurant, where sushi meets style and fashion meets food, which serves mouth-watering Asian cuisine (order the ‘Underwater Kingdom’ with its incredible array of sashimi).

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com

THE SWAN ASCOTT-UNDERWYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE

This 16th-century timbered inn with inglenook fireplaces, reclaimed wooden floors and a large central bar, is part of Sam and Georgie Pearman’s Country Creatures collection (the newest addition to the group is The Double Red Duke, p100). You’ll find eight dashingly pretty bedrooms and a family cottage, all balancing comfort and luxury in equal measure, with antique and modern art pieces, natural linens, velvets and printed fabrics, and 100 Acres Apothecary products in the bathrooms. In the charming dining room, exposed timber, Cotswold stone, striking Lewis & Wood wallpaper and art by Keith Tyson create an intimate setting, while the garden terrace has firepits and painted wooden planters and its own separate Garden Grill menu throughout spring and summer. Expect the best of British and European produce from head chef Dan Smith. Tuck into Wiltshire burrata followed by Cornbury Park venison, and to finish, a jaffa cake chocolate pudding to share. Breakfast is a delight, with ham, cheese, fresh loaves and fruit compotes laid out, as well as a cooked menu to choose from.

Doubles from £100 + 44 (0)1993 832332; countrycreatures.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 103

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THORNBURY CASTLE THORNBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Thornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed here and Princess Mary, later Mary I, lived here. After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture, the ornate carved ceilings and tapestry wall-hangings. Spiral staircases lead to 26 unique, romantic bed chambers, many with coronet or four-poster beds. Their baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well heated with opulent bathrooms. The magnificent Tudor walled gardens have been restored to their full glory and comprise formal areas and a living statue of Henry VIII, along with a kitchen garden, Tudor herb garden, wildflower meadow and heritage orchard within the castle grounds. Thornbury’s fine dining options include its award-winning restaurant and the atmospheric Tudor Hall and Baron’s Sitting Room which are the perfect setting for private dining. Best of all, it’s an authentic, thundering castle.

Doubles from £249 B&B +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk

TUDOR FARMHOUSE HOTEL CLEARWELL, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In the heart of the Forest of Dean in the magnificent Wye Valley, surrounded by ancient woodland, Tudor Farmhouse Hotel is an utterly chic 20-room boutique retreat. All low ceilings, ancient wood beams and crackling fires, the 17th-century farmhouse and its converted outbuildings house luxurious rooms and particularly sumptuous beds, most with a freestanding tub. Its 14 acres of wildflower meadows are a protected site of Special Scientific Interest, due to its rare plants, and foraging trips are one of many nature activities on offer from the hotel’s expert team. Head chef Gavin Roberts champions organic and hyper-local produce – try his fantastic 20-mile menu – including vegetables and herbs from the hotel grounds. Sunday lunch is also a real draw, and breakfasts are show-stopping – a real gastronomic getaway. If all that indulgence leaves you craving some fresh air, whether its canoeing on the river Wye, local salmon fishing, visiting the nearby Clearwell Caves, endless bucolic walks, or wildlife safaris organised by the hotel, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk 104 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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WILD THYME & HONEY AMPNEY CRUCIS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

One of the most exciting hotel openings in 2021, Wild Thyme & Honey, in the picturesque village of Ampney Crucis near Cirencester, has been lovingly restored, from a 16th-century inn into a relaxing retreat. Overlooking a babbling trout-filled brook, there are 24 incredibly comfortable bedrooms (many with standalone tubs) plus a lovely village pub, The Crown at Ampney Brook. Exposed Cotswolds stone, natural wood floors and lovely woolly textures blend seamlessly with a New York loft-style look and thoughtfully-designed airy spaces to let nature in. The Crown, just the other side of the courtyard, is super cosy – feast on the breakfast buffet, hunker down with a book and make yourself at home. Or borrow some wellies and hop onto the Thames Path, go for ramble or visit a National Trust property – Bibury, Lodge Park and Chedworth Roman Villa are all nearby. Come evening, enjoy one of the pub’s expertly-crafted cocktails before getting stuck into the hearty farm-to-table menus that roll with the seasons and use local produce – order the Butts Farm sharing steak which is cooked to perfection.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1285 851806; wildthymeandhoney.co.uk

WOOLLEY GRANGE BRADFORD ON AVON, WILTSHIRE

The homely, relaxed atmosphere of this Jacobean manor house, the original Luxury Family Hotel, puts you immediately at ease.

Its wood-panelled interior, open fires and antique furnishings are impressive but not pretentious, and it’s unmatched for making children and dogs welcome. The 14-acre garden is one big adventure playground, with swings, play houses and dipping pond.

There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, the complimentary Woolley Bears Den children’s club and the Hen House for older kids. Adult treats include picnics in the grounds, a luxurious spa, roaring log fires and a terrace for champagne on summer evenings. The bedrooms are both family friendly and full of character.

For parents with younger children, take advantage of the baby listening service, don your glad rags and head for a superb dinner, prepared using fresh produce from the kitchen garden and the best local suppliers. When you do venture out, Bradford on Avon is a true Cotswold artisan town, full of quaint cottages, cafes and interesting hidden nooks.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 864705; woolleygrangehotel.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 105

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MID COUNTRY From blustery peaks and lush hidden valleys to vibrant hubs of contemporary culture, you’ll find a rich mix of nature and metropolitan cool in the middle of the UK

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Quiet Legend, Peak District, Derbyshire. By Demi Oral, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From tree celebrations to Michelin-starred meals. By Sophie Bucknall

1

Catch an exhibition at Nottingham Contemporary

One of the largest contemporary art galleries in the UK, Nottingham Contemporary boasts a range of exhibitions, talks and readings.

It measures its carbon emissions and works to reduce them, uses its non-recyclable waste to heat the building through organisation Enviroenergy, and its café serves locally sourced, seasonal food and ethically traded coffees. nottinghamcontemporary.org

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Book a weekend at Brackenborough Hall

The ultimate countryside retreat, this awardwinning working farm provides self-catering accommodation with excellent green credentials.

It’s powered by renewable energy sources and there’s complementary seasonal fruit and vegetables to enjoy from the garden. Plus, anyone arriving by public transport gets a free gift of delicious local produce. brackenboroughhall.com

Timber, held on the LeicestershireDerbyshire border, is all about celebrating our connection with nature and rethinking our relationship to trees and forests. The festival encourages attendees to unplug and recharge under the leaves of Feanedock, part of The National Forest. 1-3 July 2022, timberfestival.org.uk

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Cycle around majestic Derbyshire

Explore Derbyshire’s breathtaking landscape on bike, a planet-friendly way to discover the area’s rolling hills. Take the picturesque route from Woodhead Reservoir to Torside Reservoir for just under two hours of lakeside cycling bliss. The views will surely not disappoint.

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Cheer on your country at the Commonwealth Games

Birmingham has announced its aim to transform the Commonwealth Games into a carbon neutral event for the very first time. The city will play host to the 2022 games and has unveiled plans to create urban forests and woodland, as well as promote eco-friendly travel, use greener infrastructure and limit the use of energy and plastic waste. 28 July to 8 August 2022, birmingham2022.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © ANDY TAYLOR SMITH; © WILD RUMPUS; © GRAHAM SHAW; © RYAN GRICE

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Rock out and reflect at Timber festival

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Fill your tupperware at the Zero store

The Zero store offers great alternatives to plastic-wrapped supermarket produce, from dried goods and refillable cleaning products to eco toiletries. Find it in Leamington Spa and StratfordUpon-Avon, plus concessions in FarGo Village, Coventry and Napton-on-the-Hill. zerostore.co.uk

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Visit Chatsworth House

You can’t visit Derbyshire without a trip to its finest stately home. Famous for its appearances in films and TV shows over the years – most notably as Pemberley in Pride and Prejudice – Chatsworth is home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. Despite its long history, the estate is intent on looking forward to a sustainable future, with its tree planting scheme, biodegradable plant pots and peat-free compost. chatsworth.org

Go bird watching at Rutland Water

If you find yourself in England’s smallest county, head to Rutland Water, a nature reserve and reservoir that provides Peterborough with drinking water. It’s been instrumental in relaunching the British osprey population and you can also spot water voles, badgers and spoonbills; a real natural paradise. lrwt.org.uk

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Tuck in at Restaurant Sat Bains

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; © ANDY TAYLOR SMITH; © WILD RUMPUS; © GRAHAM SHAW; © RYAN GRICE

This two-Michelin-star Nottingham restaurant not only offers delectable dishes but is also one of the UK’s leading restaurants in terms of environmentalism. Its use of composting system Closed Loops Organics has reduced food waste by up to 90 per cent, transforming it into nutrient-rich compost that’s used to help grow fresh produce in its urban garden. restaurantsatbains.com

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Explore the Attenborough Nature Reserve

The Attenborough Nature Reserve, opened

by Sir David Attenborough himself, is home to over 160 species of birds and hundreds of plants and insects. Protecting wildlife is instrumental to its cause, and it’s a great place to connect with nature and spot kingfishers, bitterns and otters. nottinghamshirewildlife.org 8

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSDALE LODGE OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Now in its 32nd year of trading since it was converted from a centuries-old farmhouse in 1990, Barnsdale Lodge Hotel has 46 individually decorated bedrooms with views of the countryside and private courtyard, as well as a plethora of original features including flagstone hallways, sash windows and cast iron stoves. Today, the hotel – on the Exton Estate in the picturesque county of Rutland – is run with great passion by the managing director, Ed Burrows. The quality of the rooms, food and location represents superb value for money and locally sourced produce forms the basis of the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by the passionately talented kitchen brigade. As well as two dining rooms, and private dining spaces, the garden room is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning of visitors. Looking for even more privacy?

Rutland Retreats are the hotel’s two and three-bed self-catering cottages just a stone’s throw away (see p166).

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

THE CAVENDISH HOTEL BASLOW, DERBYSHIRE

For a warm Derbyshire welcome and a delightful setting, this 250-year-old coaching inn-cum-country house hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes. Guests can walk across parkland, spotting the roaming semi-wild deer, towards Chatsworth House, resplendent after its ten-year restoration with gleaming sandstone, gilded windows and carvings. The Cavendish maintains this personal touch, with interiors overseen by the Duchess of Devonshire, supremely comfortable bedrooms, walls crammed with artwork and a thrilling dining experience. With head chef Adam Harper at the helm, the elegant Gallery restaurant serves imaginative food, using the freshest locally-sourced ingredients. Or there’s the open-all-day Garden Room, with its relaxed service and great menu offering ever-changing seasonal home-cooked favourites, teamed with some exciting twists (try the Chatsworth Gold Beer Battered Fish & Chips). Afterwards, explore Radical Horizons: The Art of Burning Man at Chatsworth, a large-scale summer exhibition on the estate, showcasing monumental sculptures from Burning Man in Nevada, USA. Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1756 718111; cavendishbaslow.co.uk 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, opened it in July 1980. Contented but never complacent, it offers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of chef Aaron Patterson (the hotel has held a Michelin star for 40 years – the record for the longest retained star in the UK) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, The Croquet Suite is a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel, with a sitting room, breakfast room and private terrace. There is also a swimming pool, tennis court, kitchen garden and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s many aficionados return to their haven, where loyal key staff – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up over 200 years of continual service between them.

Doubles from £310 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com

HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM

Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre with a private car park and secluded garden.

One of the highest-rated hotels in the region, it was purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Six have private terraces with access directly into the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. Within the hotel the Hart’s Kitchen restaurant is a brilliant example of modern British cooking at its best, with menus created by executive chef Aaron Patterson from Hart’s sister hotel, the Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall, above.

No extravagant flights of fancy, but first-class dishes such as gnocchi with wild garlic or whole grilled plaice, created using only the freshest seasonal ingredients.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 111

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

LANGAR HALL LANGAR, NOTTINGHAM

Thirty years ago, when Imogen Skirving opened the doors to her apricot-washed Georgian house, she dreamt that people would feel as if they were in a home from home. Fast forward to today and Imogen’s granddaughter, Lila, who took up the mantle aged 22, is staying true to her grandmother’s vision. Set at the end of a lime tree avenue, this country oasis combines the charm and quiet eccentricity of an English country home with just the right amount of modern. The stylish bedrooms are a fine example – book the super cosy Nursery, once the night nursery, with its rolling views down to the water, or bed down in The Agnews Chalet on the Croquet Lawn with its own veranda.

The food (‘classic English with a twist’) is equally cossetting, cooked with love by longstanding executive chef Gary Booth. Local produce is the big thing, with dishes such as Blackberry Farm beef, ox cheek, turnip, horseradish and salsa verde. And, to top it off, the staff are fantastic, headed up by brilliant general managers Ben Rivett and Michael Addison.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com

THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY

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PHOTOS: JAMES ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOS: TOM KAHLER

ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE

Charming and elegant, The Peacock at Rowsley is a stylish boutique hotel and celebrated gastronomic destination where guests can expect first-class service, comfortable bedrooms and superb food. Built in the 1600s, and a former dower house for Haddon Hall, it’s been a hotel since 1820. Today, it showcases the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary design, with a sense of the family history of the hotel’s owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches by his greatgrandmother of the great and good of her day.

There are 15 distinctively decorated bedrooms with gleaming marble bathrooms (two have four-posters made locally on the Haddon Estate), a fine dining restaurant (look for the carved mice in the original Mousey Thompson furniture) and a splendidly atmospheric bar. Food is at the heart of the place, with acclaimed head chef Dan Smith creating new menus each season, including a spectacular nine-course tasting menu and bar lunch – a favourite with the locals. It’s an ideal base for exploring the Peak District, with extensive dry fly wild trout fishing on the doorstep.

Doubles from £235 midweek +44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com

MID COUNTRY

THE TAWNY CONSALL, STAFFORDSHIRE

Set in the heart of Staffordshire, The Tawny combines all the best bits from a traditional hotel – a fabulous restaurant, seamless service, amazing facilities and heated outdoor pool – with your own private space. The result is a beautiful rural haven, deeply rooted in nature. Spread across the estate (which dates back to 1246), the 55 eco-conscious rooms, including wildwood huts, treehouses and romantic boathouses, are chic and cosy with superlative views – plus, all feature an outdoor bath on a private decking. There’s also a lovely treatment room housed in a quaint thatched cottage. Headed up by Michelin and Rosette-trained Executive Head Chef Chris Alexander, The Plumicorn, with its stunning vistas, serves an inspired menu, created using the best of local produce. Guests can order a picnic to enjoy in the grounds – the hotel has 70 acres of undulating landscape, dotted with lakeside gardens, secluded dells and enchanting follies. The adventure continues in bordering Consall Nature Park or the winding local canals – and the Peak District is only a stone’s throw away. Staff are super friendly and dogs are welcome too.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1538 787664; thetawny.co.uk

WILDHIVE CALLOW HALL

PHOTOS: JAMES ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOS: TOM KAHLER

ASHBOURNE, DERBYSHIRE

Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Victorian Callow Hall has recently emerged from a top-to-toe refurbishment (it’s the first opening from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways). Stay in the main house where rooms with an eclectic, playful feel are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in one of the 11 cosy, tucked-away woodland hives. There are also two spectacular selfcontained treehouses, each with an outdoor tub on the deck. The wellness centre in The Coach House has a Pilates studio, sauna and steam room, botanical massages on the treatment menu and bicycles that guests can borrow to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail. Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take afternoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for the seasonal dishes using British produce at dinner – goats cheese tortellini with wild nettle pesto and a garlic and rosemary Barnsley chop with a pea, mint and sundried tomato pesto – in the Garden Room restaurant. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District.

Doubles from £159 room only +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 113

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Swan Lake, Hardely Flood, Norfolk. By Ruth Grindrod, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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EAST ANGLIA

Prepare to be swept away by an ancient landscape of oyster beds, vast deserted beaches, throngs of wildlife and light-filled afternoons that seem to stretch on forever

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TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From fascinating exhibitions to Earth-friendly festivals. By Sophie Bucknall

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Spot seals at Horsey beach

Horsey beach is a great place to spot seals lolloping about on the sand. Watch from afar up on the dunes during pupping season (October to February), or stroll along the sand during the rest of the year – just make sure you keep ten metres distance at all times. explorenorfolkuk.co.uk

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Visit GroundWork Gallery

GroundWork is a gallery in King’s Lynn dedicated to art and the environment.

Its mission is to facilitate a more environmentally engaged society by putting on nature-focused exhibitions and events, and working with several organisations such as the Woodland Trust and climate change groups. Its summer 2022 project, Extraction 2: Loss and Restoration, looks at the core issues around stone quarries. groundworkgallery.com

Surrounded by beautiful countryside, this cosy pub in the Suffolk village of Barrow, close to Bury St Edmunds, serves up delicious seasonal cuisine using locally sourced ingredients served in an idyllic setting. There’s an impressive selection of vegan and vegetarian options, and the pub clearly maintains good relationships with local suppliers, demonstrated by the high quality of ingredients. theweepingwillow.co.uk

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Stay in one of Mill Farm’s eco barns

Perfect for a romantic retreat or a group holiday, these gorgeous cottages offer luxurious eco-conscious holidays. Located in Norfolk’s Winterton-on-Sea, the cottages are just a short walk from the beach. Collect free-range eggs from the chickens, pick seasonal fruit and veg from the gardens, or head off on a walk with your dog in the flower meadow. millfarm-ecobarns.co.uk

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Bag tickets to Latitude Festival

Latitude is a family-friendly festival that has something for everyone: there’s dance, comedy, poetry, theatre, literature, podcasts, activities, wellness and musical acts for both young and old. ‘Empowering the Earth’, its sustainability initiative, characterises how the festival is run, from emission targets to the prioritising of waste and plastic reduction. 21-24 July 2022, latitudefestival.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; VISITNORWICH; ANDREW PARKINSON; CHESTNUT

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Eat at The Weeping Willow

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EAST ANGLIA

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Sign up to a beach clean

Head to Southend and join a community beach clean up. Friendly local group Southend BeachCare meets regularly and is always welcoming new helpers. Head to its website for further details on how to take part in efforts to look after the environment for future generations. rivercare.org.uk

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Potter around Norwich Market

Norwich has one of Britain’s largest outdoor markets, which is dedicated to minimising its use of plastic. Browse the stalls brimming with fresh and local fruit and veg, second hand clothes, vintage records and local Norfolk ales, cider and wine. norwich.gov.uk

All aboard to explore the Norfolk Broads

Forget the road trip – opt for a more sustainable way to see the best of the Norfolk countryside.

This delightful steam train tour will let you see the county’s pretty waterways, timeless seaside towns and historic stately homes from a different viewpoint. It includes five days of rail travel and a guided tour of the Broads, the Norfolk Wildlife Trust and the Queen’s own country retreat, Sandringham. greatrail.com

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Immerse yourself in nature at Essex Wildlife Trust

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; VISITNORWICH; ANDREW PARKINSON; CHESTNUT

Recently awarded a Level One Green Dragon sustainability accreditation, the Essex Wildlife Trust is a leading conservation charity committed to protecting wildlife and motivating a love of nature.

With 8,400 acres of land across 87 sites, visitors are encouraged to experience the wonders of nature up close and personal. essexwt.org.uk

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Go for a dip in the River Waveney

Writer and environmentalist Roger Deakin was a key figure in popularising wild swimming, which is proven to be good for your mental and physical health. Follow in the wake of the man himself at this beautiful spot in Suffolk, one of Deakin’s favourite places to swim. visitsuffolk.com 8

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BANK HOUSE KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

Overlooking King’s Staithe Square and the River Great Ouse in the fascinating historic centre of King’s Lynn, Bank House is a glorious Georgian townhouse built by a wealthy wine merchant who shipped imported wine downriver to the Cambridge colleges and the Bishop of Ely. It was here in the 1780s that Joseph Gurney, later a founder of Barclays, set up his first bank; converted into a stylish, relaxed and exceptionally good value hotel in 2008, it is now run by Michael Baldwin of South Quay Hotels.

Upstairs, 12 chic, individually decorated bedrooms comfortably blend old and new with antique furniture and modern art.

Downstairs, the brasserie restaurant occupies Gurney’s purpose-built Counting House, now a buzzing local favourite serving highly recommended food. The adjacent bar, once the bank manager’s office, is open all day for tea, coffee and cakes, as well as drinks and cocktails. There’s also a large sunny room with sofas and comfy seating, as well as the Billiards Room and the Boardroom, ideal for private parties. If it’s warm, the riverside terrace offers the chance for al fresco drinks.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1553 660492; thebankhouse.co.uk

BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of north Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and out to Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The family-owned hotel, built in the 1920s, has been sensitively modernised in recent years and now has 60 rooms, all unfussy and seaside-fresh, with crisp white linens on comfortable beds. Many have balconies, or look out onto the south-facing garden; others come with their own patio. Panoramic vistas of the stunning salt marsh landscape can be seen from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. When guests aren’t out walking the north Norfolk Coastal Path, exploring beaches or visiting one of the charming nearby towns, there are two spacious lounges for relaxing. The indoor pool, steam room, sauna and spa bath are, of course, another big draw for repeat guests, too.

Doubles from £308 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeney-hotel.co.uk 118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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CLEY WINDMILL CLEY NEXT THE SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain.

The singer James Blunt used to live here and Elizabeth Taylor filmed Conspirator at the property in 1949. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (it’s birdwatching country) as you come home to this beautifully restored windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories flood back as you climb higher and higher, finally mounting the ladder to the Wheel Room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular dining room with a blazing fire and antiques, while the cosy lounge, complete with bar, is part of the original 1713 warehouse. There are ten rooms to choose from, two of which, Dovecote and the new Old Cart Shed, are self-catering cottages in the old stables. The three circular bedrooms in the tower itself have bathrooms ingeniously fitted into challenging nooks and crannies. All are charming and bursting with character, with views over the waving reed beds to the sea.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk

CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

This calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, sits just five mintues drive from Sandringham and 20 from the amazing stretches of Norfolk beaches.

Inside, a lovely stone floor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of fresh garden flowers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. The Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed with locally sourced dishes like pressed beetroot with goats’ curd followed by baked hake with parsnip velouté and rhubarb crumble tart. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between the house (the top floor rooms are small but charming); the garden wing next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa; and five new orchard cabins with outside baths among the trees. The house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. Afternoon tea is a delight here, and then it’s back to those 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England.

Doubles from £165, room only +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 119

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE DABBLING DUCK GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK

In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer, whose prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration: wooden floors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books. There are eight bedrooms – including three garden rooms – plus the recently refurbished Duckling Cottage, a few doors away, which sleeps six. Sally and Mark have also just renovated the house next door to add four spacious bedrooms with roll-top baths and walk-in showers.

The pub has a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. The terrific food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef, Dale Smith. There is a beautiful oakbeamed barn with a cosy wood burner, an outside bar and a kitchen serving street food and wood-fired pizza. The barn opens up on to the pub garden, which has a play area for little ones.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk

THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the help of interior designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ironically, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ Inside, the 16 bedrooms are decked out with sumptuous furnishings, printed wallpaper and traditional dark wood furniture, contrasting with the edgy, sexy art on the walls by all the big names: Tracey Emin, Damian Hirst, Lucian Freud... the list goes on. In the bathrooms, the marble was sourced in Egypt by Robert Kime and came out of derelict mansions in Alexandria.

The hotel’s eclectic look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled flint building itself, which sits inside vast, deer-filled Gunton Park. In the kitchen Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open fire that guests tuck in to at sharing tables – the seafood and Cromer crab are all caught by local fishermen. If you stay in Ellis, don’t miss the old prints by the dressing table – but maybe not if you objected to Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk 120 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE HARPER LANGHAM, NORFOLK

Located in the pretty village of Langham, a mile inland from the coast at Blakeney, The Harper is a residents-only contemporary country escape. Housed in a brick-and-flint barn that was once part of Langham Glass, unfussy yet refined interiors nod to its industrial past with flashes of iron, copper, oak and slate.

Rooms come with modern four posters, leather armchairs, underfloor heating and lovely touches, including pre-mixed house cocktails in the fridge. At the heart of The Harper is The Yard for al fresco dining and evenings around the fire pit.

There’s also a cosy bar for comfort food lunches, Ivy’s lounge with arched windows and a wood-burning stove, and Stanley’s restaurant for fine dining without the frippery (try the Norfolk Estate ribeye from the wood-fired Josper grill). Head to the spa for a massage or book an exclusive use pool slot. There’s also The Den with its pool table and film screenings.

Alternatively, pre-order a picnic hamper and make your way to Holkham Beach, which is only a short drive away.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1328 805000; theharper.co.uk

THE ICKWORTH HOTEL BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

As part of the Luxury Family Hotels collection, The Ickworth is surely the most remarkable. For anyone, however aristocratic, it would make an impressive place to stay, but the fact that the East Wing, home to the eccentric Hervey family for almost 200 years, now offers fun for families, is remarkable indeed. Central to Ickworth is its view over the formal gardens and gently rolling countryside of the 1800-acre National Trust Estate. The hotel entrance is flanked by rows of flora and fauna, and families romp happily about.

Babies are looked after in the crèche, while older children revel in the indoor pool or adventure playground. Parents can escape to the treatment rooms and enjoy romantic suppers, thanks to the baby listening devices available to borrow from reception. Bedrooms range from traditional to modern and include interconnecting rooms and suites, plus apartments in Ickworth Lodge, a short walk away. There is seemingly endless parkland to explore: hire bikes from the hotel and cycle round the estate’s new, all-weather, six-mile cycle route. With a dog friendly ethos, it’s also perfect for four-legged friends.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1284 735350; ickworthhotel.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 121

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THE SUN INN, DEDHAM DEDHAM, ESSEX

The Sun Inn on the Essex-Suffolk border is a charming base from which to explore Dedham Vale. Rent a boat on the River Stour; borrow bikes from the pub – they will even make you a picnic. The bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pubby with beams and wooden floors, open fires and an elm bar lined with jolly locals and their dogs. There are newspapers to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into, plus seven individually decorated bedrooms with centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. The restaurant’s seasonal food is big on flavour and inspired by great local produce: think home-made pasta, excellent fish from East Coast day boats, local meat, fruit and veg and game in season. For special occasions, the FEAST menu offers dishes designed for sharing, prepared with flair and imagination to elevate them above the everyday plus local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare treats.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com

TALBOOTH HOUSE & SPA DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale in Constable country, Talbooth House & Spa (formerly Maison Talbooth) is celebrating a new chapter. This handsome Victorian house is still a super sophisticated place to stay but, now, thanks to its spanking new spa facility (complete with lovely Elemis products), the hotel will be very much spa-led, a place where you can step back, relax and indulge.

Its 12 smartly-decorated literary-themed bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of their nearby restaurant, which has had a subtle refresh too and is now called Talbooth Restaurant. Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952, and whose portfolio also includes The Pier at Harwich, Milsoms Dedham and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall. As with all their properties, dogs are welcome to stay. Breakfast can be served in your room or at Milsoms Dedham, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from the restaurants, a half-timbered building with a film set location on the River Stour. In all, the hotel, spa and restaurant make for a winning combination.

Doubles from £300 B&B +44 (0)1206 322367; milsomhotels.com 122 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE VICTORIA, HOLKHAM HOLKHAM, NORFOLK

One of the great pleasures in life is walking on the beach at Holkham, an unspoilt and beautiful stretch of sand, memorably featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare in Love. Behind it stands fabulous Holkham Hall and its 25,000-acre estate, home to the Earl and Countess of Leicester and their family, and rich in history, architecture and wildlife. Just a few minutes from the beach at the gates of Holkham Park, is the estate’s gorgeous brick and flint hotel and restaurant, The Victoria, affectionately known as The Vic. It has never looked better: a series of lovely sitting rooms, bar and dining room with an airy orangery where delicious, locally sourced, seasonal food is served. Heated by biomass with wood from the estate, and awarded Green Tourism Gold status, The Vic certainly has sustainability at its core. The bedrooms are lovely, too, and it makes a wonderful base for exploring the local area. From the stunning panoramic landscape of the nearby Holkham National Nature Reserve to the old-fashioned beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea, there’s plenty of great walking to do right on the doorstep.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1328 711008; holkham.co.uk

THE WHITE HOUSE BURNHAM MARKET, NORFOLK

Set in the countryside, yet just a few miles from the sea, this is a secluded, serene retreat. The renovated Georgian house has 12 tranquil bedrooms – many with freestanding baths and all with a Roberts radio, crisp white sheets and natural 100 Acres products. The reception rooms are decorated with rich colours, velvet sofas and artwork by local artists. There’s a fire for gathering round and an honesty bar for drinks. In the mornings, made-toorder dishes such as homemade waffles and proper porridge will set you up for the day whether you fancy a trip to Burnham Market or relaxing in front of the wood burner in the walled garden. Guests can play tennis, croquet or hire bicycles locally to explore the coast. Brancaster beach is nearby too, where walkers can pick up the Norfolk Coast Path. If you’re staying Thursday to Saturday, book for dinner at new restaurant Acre at the White House which specialises in Norfolk produce cooked in a classic French style. When it’s not run as a hotel, the place can be taken over for house parties.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)7785 439727; stayatthewhitehouse.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 123

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Royal Albert Docks, Liverpool, Lancashire. By Bethan Racklyeft, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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THE NORTH

With its proper pubs, cutting-edge cultural hot spots and rugged landscapes, a trip to the north of England will revive mind, body and soul

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From tranquil canals to wet-and-wild adventures. By Charlie Colville

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Take on the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge

Cut the carbon on your next adventure and head out on foot to trek up three peaks in the Yorkshire Dales. Known as one of the hardest hikes in the UK – it’s done in under 12 hours – the Three Peaks Challenge is a great one for seasoned hikers (the rest of us can go at a leisurely pace). The views from the top are well worth it. threepeakschallenge.uk

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Pull up a chair at zero-waste restaurant Hypha

Chester’s Hypha is just one of 31 restaurants in the UK and Ireland to be awarded the Michelin Green Star. It boasts a seasonal vegan tasting menu created using ingredients sourced from eco-conscious local suppliers, growers and foragers. See how it’s done up close and book a seat at the Chef’s Counter, an experience only offered to four guests a week. hypha.uk

Battlesteads is one of only two hotels in Northumberland to hold a Gold Award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme. The boutique retreat’s carbon footprint is just onefifth of the industry average, with carbon-neutral heating systems, homegrown food and an on-site sustainable mushroom farm making it a truly guilt-free getaway. battlesteads.com

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Clean up Yorkshire’s coastline

Join the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust for one of its regular beach cleans, where you can take part in the battle against marine pollution on the UK coast. Litter pickers, bin bags and other equipment are provided for each clean – all you need to do is turn up with warm clothes and a pair of gloves. ywt.org.uk

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Get wild at the Newlands Adventure Centre

In the heart of the Lake District National Park lies Newlands Adventure Centre, which works with the natural landscape to create outdoor activities for the whole family to enjoy – from kayaking and bike tours to rock climbing. Recently the centre has cut the amount it sends to landfill by half, upgraded its recycling programme and begun to plant trees to conserve the local environment. activity-centre.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © JOHN DIOS © ANDY CARNE; ©ROYA ANN MILLER; © ILLIYA VJESTICA

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Book a stay at Battlesteads hotel in Hexham

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Book an eco staycation at The Samling

The Samling creates experiences that ‘balance nature’s beauty with world-class service’.

Spread over 67 acres of English countryside, the hotel boasts scenic views over Lake Windermere. Try out the ‘Wilderness Adventure’ glamping package for a civilised taste of the outdoors and be looked after by a personal butler and chef. thesamlinghotel.co.uk

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Stargaze in the Forest of Bowland

The Forest of Bowland is an AONB noted for its dedication to providing opportunities for sustainable tourism. The forest is committed to reducing light pollution in the area, partnering with local businesses to offer evenings of stargazing, night photography courses and forest moon bathing. forestofbowland.com

Explore the North’s canal routes

You can hire a luxury narrow boat for a quiet getaway with Canal Boat Cruises of Riley Green. The journey begins in the Lancashire countryside with cruise routes across the north of England. A complimentary hamper of local and Fairtrade produce is also included with each hire. canalboatcruises.co.uk

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Feel inspired by nature at Tatton Park

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © JOHN DIOS © ANDY CARNE; ©ROYA ANN MILLER; © ILLIYA VJESTICA

Located in Knutsford, Cheshire, Tatton Park has over 1,000 acres of parkland for visitors to explore on foot or bike. This family-friendly tourist spot encourages visitors of all ages to take an interest in the local landscape, with activities ranging from deer and bird watching to outdoor painting, mindful walking experiences and yoga in the park. tattonpark.org.uk

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Visit Durham University’s Botanic Garden

Durham University is on a mission to be one of the greenest universities in the UK. The Botanic Garden has played host to extensive conservation and biodiversity projects, including an initiative to reintroduce endangered plants and flowers back into the ecosystem. In summer, see bees from the apiary making the most of the garden’s floral banquet. dur.ac.uk 8

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ASKHAM HALL ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

If you lean towards staying in homes rather than hotels, head for this magnificent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. Askham Hall’s mighty, yet approachable Grade I-listed ‘pele tower’ (fortified house), was formerly the family home of the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale, whose son, Charlie Lowther, converted it into a hotel in 2012 after making a success of The George and Dragon in Clifton, p131 (in 2019 he also acquired Askham’s village pub, The Queen’s Head, p135). The romantic and quintessentially English 40-acre grounds are a joy; they include extensive kitchen gardens and fields of free-range chickens, goats and rare-breed pigs. A joy, too, is the house with its vast drawing room, panelled French room, antiques, contemporary paintings and 19 delightful bedrooms, plus a pool, hot tub and access to a nearby Health Barn. The icing on the cake? The Allium restaurant, where the sensational food of Richard Swale is dictated by the life cycle of those gardens and fields. No wonder it holds four AA Rosettes and a Michelin star.

Doubles from £180 + 44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk

AUGILL CASTLE KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA

Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magnificent Eden Valley. It has all the trappings of a neo-Gothic castle – tower, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. Its owners, two generations of the Bennett family, rescued it from dereliction and have created a very special, award-winning place to stay. It retains the atmosphere of a family home amid its vast rooms, with large fireplaces and a mix of antique and contemporary furniture. There are 13 charming bedrooms, suites and houses spread across the estate. Those in the castle are more traditional – turrets for wardrobes, clawfoot baths, stained glass windows – while the estate houses feel more modern. The castle’s restaurant, The Music Room at Augill, is headed up by chef Meg Davenport who brings the bold flavours inspired by her international career to the Eden valley and marries them with the finest local ingredients. Meanwhile, newly refurbished The Great British Bar champions small distillers, brewers and artisan producers from across the UK. It is also a splendidly unique place for a wedding: you can have the castle to yourself with no set formula.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com 128 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE

Brocco on the Park is a shining example of how imaginative yet practical design can lift a place far above the ordinary. A perfect marriage of luxury chic and classic British comfort, the birds theme throughout is executed with the lightest of touches. The mantra for the hotel is ‘sleep well, eat well, live well’ and in the eight pretty, carefully crafted rooms – names include Nightjar’s Nest and Pigeon’s Loft – with wooden floors, sumptuous, tactile furnishings and Bramley products, that’s just what you do. The best is the penthouse suite, Dovecote, which comes with a freestanding copper bath and a Juliet balcony. The ground floor, with an honesty bar for guests, is given over to the stylish indoor-outdoor ‘neighbourhood kitchen’ for relaxed all-day dining (‘seasonally inspired and unmistakably Sheffield’) with afternoon tea, brunch, Chef’s tasting dishes and seasonally inspired small plates, there is plenty of choice. And don’t miss hygge hour, with a complimentary glass of fizz available in the lounge for all guests at 5.30pm.

Now that’s relaxation.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk

THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS HOTEL & SPA BOLTON ABBEY, YORKSHIRE

Set on the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate – 33,000 acres of prime Yorkshire Dales – this cosy hotel offers ultimate comfort and relaxation. Originally a 17th-century coaching inn, the hotel stands in parkland, surrounded by an Italian box garden. Inside, artwork and antiques merge with classic contemporary interiors, chosen by the Duchess of Devonshire.

Arrive to bedrooms and suites with individual touches, richly decorated sitting rooms and log fires. The Secret Spa is a series of canvas bell tents featuring superb guest amenities and comforts with views over the Dales, plus access to the Spa itself, housed in a converted barn with heated pool, gym and therapy suites.

The food is a highlight thanks to head chef Chris O’Callaghan whose carefully-crafted dishes celebrate the bountiful home-grown fruit and vegetables from the kitchen garden, along with produce reared and caught on the estate. For al-fresco dining, there’s the Champagne & Seafood Terrace, a pop-up restaurant featuring a delectable offering of 16 Grand Marque Champagne on the lawn, running until September.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1756 718111; thedevonshirearms.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 129

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THE DUNCOMBE ARMS ELLASTONE, STAFFORDSHIRE

When Johnny and Laura Greenall drove past the boarded-up 19th-century inn that had once been the hub of their nearest village, they dreamed of giving it a new lease of life. After a renovation that included creating a state-of-the-art kitchen and light-filled dining space, they opened in 2012 and are celebrating their 10th birthday this year. In that time, the pub has gone on to receive and retain a Michelin Bib Gourmand for the outstanding pub classics and modern British fare rustled up in the kitchen using local ingredients and herbs and vegetables from the pub’s new kitchen garden. The pub is also home to Walnut House, where ten cosy country-chic bedrooms are full of homely comforts. There are also two lovely rentals: Garden Cottage in the grounds of the Wootton Hall Estate and The Old Barn, just behind the pub, both sleeping up to six people. Located in the Dove Valley, just a stone’s throw from the Peak District, there is beautiful walking straight from the door and the charming market towns of Ashbourne and Uttoxeter nearby.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1335 324275; duncombearms.co.uk

FEVERSHAM ARMS HOTEL HELMSLEY, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A wonderfully spoiling hotel with all the advantages of being in a town, plus stunning countryside on the doorstep.

Situated next to the church in the picturesque market town of Helmsley, this former coaching inn, built in lovely old York stone, makes for an elegant yet laid-back bolthole, with chic contemporary interiors, the glossy Verbena Spa (it has an aromatherapy room, outdoor Jacuzzi and heated outdoor pool, steam and sauna) and dedicated staff. New head chef Jon Appleby is in charge of the food, which is served in the airy restaurant, The Weathervane, and centres around British flavours and using ingredients from North Yorkshire’s larder (the entire menu is seasonal and sourced within 30 miles) – think dishes such as oven-baked North Sea halibut and spring lamb. Al fresco dining, afternoon tea and a lunch menu are available, too. Some of the 33 rooms and suites have recently been refurbished; all have the little extras in place, from duck down duvets (unless you prefer sheets and blankets) to huge soft towels.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1439 770766; fevershamarmshotel.com 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

A lovely place to stay, eat and relax, close to the Eden Valley. Part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn has been imaginatively revamped by Charlie Lowther who also owns nearby Askham Hall with its Michelin-star restaurant, Allium (see p128) and The Queen’s Head Askham (p135). The ground floor is a triumph of conviviality and authenticity. The rustic bar, with its woodburning stoves, banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions, and sightline through to the duck egg blue-panelled restaurant, create a delightful place in which to while away time.

And on sunny days, there is no better spot than at one of the chunky, weathered tables in the courtyard. As for the food, almost all produce comes from Askham Hall’s gardens and estate (the rest is sourced from within a 20-mile radius). Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy cooking one craves in the countryside.

Speaking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s 11 comfortable bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive fishing and stalking opportunities. Families and wellbehaved dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

THE GRAND, YORK YORK, YORKSHIRE

Originally built in 1906 as a ‘Palace of Business’ for the North Eastern Railway Company, The Grand, York, lives up to its name – retaining much of its Edwardian splendour. Complete with its city centre location, unique experiential packages and exquisite food and beverage offering, the hotel provides the perfect all-around escape. Today, there are 207 beautifully designed luxury suites and spacious rooms which occupy the two main wings. Guests can choose between the original building with its high ceilings, large windows and architectural quirks or the contemporary wing, a clever blend of heritage meets modern simplicity. The spa, housed in the former vaults, offers a blissful escape, while the AA Rosette Rise Restaurant is sure to delight epicureans, offering modern British cuisine that incorporates seasonal and local produce.

Don’t miss the award-winning afternoon tea too! In the evening, start with a cocktail on the terrace and finish off the night with a whisky at the 1906 Bar. And, as if all that wasn’t enough, The Grand has an awardwinning cookery school, too.

Doubles from £169 (low season) £269 (high season) +44 (0)1904 380038; thegrandyork.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 131

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GRANTLEY HALL RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A shining north star, Grantley Hall is a real destination for luxury, fun and fine dining.

Dating back to 1680, this Grade II*-listed mansion house on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales boasts an English Heritage-listed ornamental Japanese garden in its beautiful grounds. A multi-million-pound restoration project by Valeria Sykes returned the mansion’s Palladian beauty to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur as well as adding several new buildings. Guests are spoiled rotten here, with 47 beautiful bedrooms, an indulgent spa and wellness offering, an engaging programme of events and no less than six drinking and dining venues, including pan-Asian eatery, Restaurant EightyEight, stunning terraces for alfresco dining, and a glamorous late-night Champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies will rub their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal restaurant, set in one of the original public rooms overlooking the formal gardens, has menus by Yorkshireman and culinary maestro, Shaun Rankin, and one Michelin star. Gastronomic delights, 17thcentury splendour and contemporary design all add up to an unforgettable experience.

Doubles from £500 +44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk

HARE & HOUNDS LEVENS, CUMBRIA

Not only is the modest but charming Hare & Hounds that rare find – a thriving watering hole – it also serves food all day at weekends (lunch and dinner is available during the week too). Former managers of London branches of All Bar One, owners Ash and Becky Dewar have an easygoing, friendly approach that has once again made the centuries-old inn a popular local hub. The website sums it up: ‘We are friendly and welcoming to all: families, tourists, walkers, cyclists, children, muddy boots, dogs.’ The menu of homemade pizzas, burgers and pub classics, plus drinks – including cocktails – can be enjoyed by the fire in the bar or, on sunny days, in the spacious terraced beer garden. For overnight visitors there are four bedrooms, smartly decorated and luxuriously equipped above the pub, while for less transient guests there’s a spacious barn annexe with all the facilities for self-catering, plus handy access to the pub for meals. For a cosy night in, staff can even deliver pub food straight to your door.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1539 560004; hareandhoundslevens.co.uk 132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM

The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk (p136), but also the archetypal English country house hotel at Headlam Hall. It helps that the hall is a fine-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens, you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and rose borders.

Vegetables, herbs and fruit are also grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, the exquisitely proportioned rooms have wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms and suites (plus a new stylish self-catering apartment with private hot tub) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own nine-hole golf course, fabulous spa and classic cars available for daily hire in the summer, this is a hotel that absolutely everyone will enjoy… even the most dedicated of petrolheads.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk

LINTHWAITE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Linthwaite House, built in 1900 as a private home, is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understatedly elegant and professional but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the view over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, is simply unbeatable. The bedrooms are the last word in lakeland luxury and, for those wanting a more back-to-nature experience, there’s a tarn with a secluded summerhouse and six Fell Suites in the wooded, gently sloping grounds. Back in the hotel, you’ll find a crackling fire in the hall’s carved mahogany fireplace, beyond which beckons an airy bar and conservatory, with those mesmerising views. Guests can eat here or in the hotel’s main restaurant, Henrock; both are overseen by award-winning chef Simon Rogan who makes use of the freshest local Cumbrian ingredients. Add a croquet lawn, pétanque and outdoor chessboard, as well as bicycles and rowing boats to borrow, and you have a Lake District hotel that ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com/uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 133

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MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, quaint sitting rooms (each with a roaring fire) and views of the ha-ha. The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country housestyle bedrooms, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff.

For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble soufflé with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate.

A hotel that’s as alluring in winter – all cosy and snug – as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the first women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved there. It is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust-owned Historic House Hotel.

Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com

MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE

PHOTOS: REBECCA ALLISON; CECELINA TORNBERG

RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

An enchanting escape to eat, gather and pause. Creative husband and wife duo James and Rebecca Allison have spent the past ten years restoring this once sleeping Georgian beauty back to life. Now a cool 200-acre retreat, the estate welcomes couples, creatives, and families to kick back in the country. The Coach House is at its heart, with bustling courtyard, bedrooms, treatment rooms and Michelin recognised ‘estate to plate’ restaurant using produce from the two-acre walled garden (designed by Tom Stuart-Smith). Thirty-six bedrooms are dotted around the estate, each individually designed to reflect the original buildings, from dairy, to coach house, to potting shed – with parkland views, chunky beams, rough plaster walls and roll top baths.

Some have private gardens and tin hot tubs (fed by the estate spring), or open into the kitchen garden or orchard meadow (including the perfectly appointed shepherd’s huts). Book the Farmhouse, picture perfect Hope House in the village, or, for larger groups, entertain in Palladian chic style in the 16 private bed Main House. Phase one of the Forest Spa with outdoor pool is due to open in the summer.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk 134 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE QUEEN’S HEAD CUMBRIA

Part of the Askham collection since 2019, this 17th-century village pub has been lovingly renovated by the Lowther family.

There are just six rooms dotted about the premises; some come with classic wooden furniture and floral wallpaper; others feel more modern with mint green walls and pretty bedside lamps. The restaurant – which has just achieved its first AA Rosette – is equally intimate, with nine tables for diners to tuck into the ‘posh pub grubbers’ menu or Sunday lunch (note: it’s closed on Monday and Tuesday, except for breakfast for residents). Produce is reared, foraged and grown on the farm, local hedgerows and kitchen gardens and whipped up into refined dishes such as earthy truffle with creamy artichoke by head chef Gareth Webster – a real talent who leads the team at the George and Dragon, Clifton as well (also owned by the Lowther family, p131) and prior to that worked with Simon Rogan.

There are fantastic walks right from the front door, including on the fells and along the river Lowther. Afterwards, head back to the pub for a pint of ale by the copper bar.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1931 712350; queensheadaskham.co.uk

RAITHWAITE

PHOTOS: REBECCA ALLISON; CECELINA TORNBERG

NR WHITBY, YORKSHIRE

Ideally located between the sweep of Sandsend beach and the wilds of the North York Moors, Raithwaite Sandsend is a relaxing coastal retreat – recently named the UK’s most sustainable hotel. Stylish, newly refurbished bedrooms range from cosy in the eaves to spacious two-bedroom family suites, each with a private outdoor space and views of the orchards. Bar 1822 is the spot for a post-walk pint or a pre-dinner cocktail on the terrace, before sitting down to eat in the redesigned restaurant. Here, just-picked vegetables from the Dales, the freshest seafood from Whitby, mushrooms foraged from the grounds and herbs from the organic garden all regularly feature on the menu. The team has also just introduced the UK’s first hotel Forest Garden, creating an edible landscape for the hotel’s chefs and mixologists to seasonally pick from. The concierge can arrange surf lessons and SUP boards or ask about the hotel’s new sunset yoga sessions on the beach. There’s an onsite spa, lovely walks that begin on the 100-acre estate and the picturesque village of Robin Hood’s Bay nearby.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1947 661661; raithwaitesandsend.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 135

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THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, with beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown.

Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (p133), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: fine hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry.

There are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone fires, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include homemade parsnip and apple soup or venison bourguignon pie. The 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terrific character and charm. It’s also brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and fly fishing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk

ROTHAY MANOR AMBLESIDE, CUMBRIA

Dating back to 1823, this handsome white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District, at the northern tip of Lake Windermere. Husband and wife duo, Jenna and Jamie Shail, have breathed new life into the property, completing extensive stylish renovations over the last three years on the main house’s 15 rooms, some with private terraces, others with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds.

Next up is The Pavilion, which launched in April: eight beautiful garden suites, designed with a colour palette of deep, luscious greens, peppered with opulent fabrics, sumptuous furnishings, and luxury amenities. In the restaurant, Head Chef Dan McGeorge draws inspiration from Scandinavian and Japanese cuisine, while ensuring that foods are sourced locally and seasonally, where possible. Already a culinary hotspot, there’s now even more excitement, Dan was crowned ‘Champion of Champions’ in the final of the BBC’s Great British Menu TV series last year. A bucolic, boutique bolthole, perfectly situated for easy lake walks and hilly hikes, and a 10-minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 33605; rothaymanor.co.uk 136 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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SEAHAM HALL SEAHAM, COUNTY DURHAM

A Georgian country-house hotel that’s rich in heritage and contemporary in style, Seaham Hall is known for its award-winning Serenity Spa. Drawing influence from Far Eastern healing and wellness rituals, holistic treatments range from hypnotherapy to Ishga seaweed baths and soothing massages (arrive from 3pm to indulge in the steam, sauna, hydrotherapy thermal experiences and outdoor Zen Garden). Afterwards, grab a bite at the pan-Asian restaurant Ozone – think warming curries and sizzling stir fries – or book in at The Dining Room. The decoration here features glittering chandeliers and a portrait of one-time resident Lord Byron on the wall while the seasonal modern British fare is inspired by the North Sea and glorious Durham countryside. At night, bed down in one of the individually designed lavish suites with super king size Hypnos beds; some come with a private hot tub and garden, whilst the split-level Ada Lovelace suite has twin slipper baths. The hotel also hosts exciting events, from a pop-up champagne and seafood bar, to live music on Sundays under the pergola and movie nights on the terrace.

Doubles from £335 +44 (0)191 516 1400; seaham-hall.co.uk

STORRS HALL BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

A Grade II*-listed Georgian mansion surrounded by 17 acres of gardens and woodland, family-run Storrs Hall has a prime position on the shores of Lake Windermere. There are 28 classic bedrooms in the main house, all with original features, grand proportions and antique furniture. Alternatively, you can stay in the 200-year-old stone Boathouse with a fire pit on the terrace (the perfect spot for watching the sunset) or in one of six contemporary Lakeside Suites (adults only) on a rocky outcrop above the lake, each with sliding glass walls and a cedar hot tub on a private deck. Start the evening with drinks by the crackling fire in the Tower Bar, with its ornate carved wood and stained glass bar originally sourced from the Blackpool Tower Ballroom, before supper at the Lake Edge Restaurant. Of course, this is the Lake District so there’s masses to see and do, from hiking the fells to pottering around pretty lakeside towns but the hotel can arrange activities too, from a canoe and bushcraft afternoon to a RIB safari from the private jetty.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1539 447111; storrshall.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 137

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Snowy Trails, Powys, Welsh Borders. By Jake Kneale, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

WALES & THE MARCHES

Strap on your hiking boots; Wales is best seen on foot, whether that’s scaling the highest of its peaks or ambling through its pretty valleys 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 139

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TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From foraging to glamping to curious creepy crawly cuisine. By Charlie Colville

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Explore nature at Glaslyn wildlife reserve

Montgomeryshire Wildlife Trust’s biggest nature reserve is home to hundreds of species of plants, fungi, insects and birds – as well as the odd herd of sheep and cattle. In the Cambrian Mountains, Glaslyn also offers some stunning views. Visit in the summer to see the heather moorlands flower in shades of violet, mauve and plum. montwt.co.uk

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Forage along the Pembrokeshire coast

Visitors to south Wales can get their forage on with Wild About Pembrokeshire, where guides Julia Horton-Mansfield and John Mansfield take groups along the shoreline in search of oceanic delights. Culinary enthusiasts should also make sure they stop by the duo’s Really Wild Emporium café, which features local foraged plants and marine algae on the menu. @thereallywildemporium

The UK’s only restaurant dedicated entirely to entomophagy puts an interesting spin on culinary classics. Grub Kitchen forgoes traditional protein sources in favour of creepy crawlies, with the hopes of lowering its environmental impact in farming and water usage. Feeling brave? Get stuck into some curried insect pakoras, mealworm gnocchi and cricket falafel. grubkitchen.co.uk

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Catch a show at the UK’s first sustainable stadium

In 2010 the Welsh Rugby Union set out to make Cardiff’s Principality Stadium a better venue for the environment. Within 12 months, 70 tonnes of waste was kept from landfill, reducing CO2 emissions by nearly 30 tonnes. Today, sports and music fans alike flock to the stadium for a night of top-tier entertainment. principalitystadium.wales

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Spot Britain’s biggest resident pod of dolphins

Head to Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre in New Quay for an aquatic adventure fit for kids and grown-ups alike.

The centre, which is known for operating marine conservation activities, offers boat tours where volunteers will teach you how to spot local marine wildlife – such as dolphins, porpoises and seals – from a mile away. welshwildlife.org

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © SHELBY COHRON; ANNIE SPRATT

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Get your buzz on at Grub Kitchen

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See renewable energy in action at Bodnant Garden

Bodnant Garden in North Wales welcomes thousands of visitors every year to its sprawling estate, where over 80 per cent of energy needs are met with renewable technologies. Take a stroll amongst the flowers, visit the solar-powered tearoom and be sure to check out Bodnant Garden’s conservation projects. nationaltrust.org.uk

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Learn something new at the Centre for Alternative Technology

Powys’ Centre for Alternative Technology is committed to researching and communicating positive solutions for environmental change. It offers courses for both kids and grown-ups, from renewable energy and organic farming to planet-friendly construction, rewilding and social forestry. cat.org.uk

Keep the kids happy with theme park visits

Voted the ‘best family attraction in North Wales’, GreenWood Family Park should be high up on the list for families with energetic children on side. The park spans over 27 acres of woodland and boasts solar-powered water rides, sledge runs, treetop towers and the world’s only people-powered roller coaster. Canine companions are also more than welcome. greenwoodfamilypark.co.uk

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Discover the Wales Coast Path by bike

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH; © SHELBY COHRON; ANNIE SPRATT

Home to 870 miles of stunning coastline, Wales is a prime destination for cyclists wanting a little extra from their daily ride. The route is packed with cultural hotspots, from the seaside town of Llandudno to historic Conwy Castle. walescoastpath.gov.uk

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Glamp in the great outdoors

Combine a luxurious stay under the stars with courses in bushcraft, foraging and gin making at Penhein Glamping. While reconnecting visitors with nature, the glampsite adheres to a strict ‘buy locally and live sustainably’ mantra – water comes from a nearby spring, wood is sourced from fallen trees and food comes from local businesses or is grown on site. penhein.co.uk 2

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BELL AT SKENFRITH SKENFRITH, MONMOUTHSHIRE

Contemporary and cosy rarely coincide, but this stylishly converted 17th-century coaching inn is one place that convincingly combines the two. The Bell has been winning awards since 1999, when it was fully restored. Committed owner Sarah Hudson has been busy since she took over in 2014, rebuilding and maintaining its warm atmosphere and enhancing its reputation for seasonal food. The hotel has a magnificent setting beside the River Monnow, with oak beams, antique furniture and comfy sofas beside the fires inside, and a pretty garden terrace for warmer weather. In the candlelit flagstone dining room, modern British dishes (with ingredients from the kitchen garden) are supported by a well-organised wine list.

Many of the 11 sophisticated bedrooms, each charmingly named after a trout fly, have beams, four- posters and billowing white duvets. Monmouthshire is renowned for its miles of country walks and The Bell has created six of its own in and around the Skenfrith area – a brilliant way to explore.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1600 750235; skenfrith.co.uk

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES

PHOTOS: PAUL MASSEY

Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentlepaced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. The Grade I-listed house is filled with character, and boasts fifteen bedrooms and 16 postcard-pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate-grown and locally sourced ingredients. The former farmhouse now houses the luxurious spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain.

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CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

This elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion is in an unrivalled location, owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family. The 24 bedrooms and suites are all stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where the eight striking rooms offer an array of treats, from a hospitality box filled with local produce to underfloor heating in the bathrooms. Light-filled public spaces include the beautiful new Waterside Restaurant and Bar, which has uninterrupted views over the pretty garden and the old castle moat beyond. Head chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locally sourced and homegrown produce, some from the kitchen garden on the Watkins’ Ballingham Hall farm.

The Saturday night five-course tasting menu is very popular with guests and locals, as is the traditional Sunday roast. You absolutely mustn’t miss the famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. This hotel fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN

PHOTOS: PAUL MASSEY

BRECON, POWYS

This was the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head on p35 and The Old Coastguard on p39). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival that takes place each spring. They all love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around and listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills, and you feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace. Room 8 takes over the top of the building - a glorious vantage point into the fields beyond. After a refined dinner cooked up by head chef Nick Evans, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 143

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GLIFFAES CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

Gorgeous Gliffaes. Standing above the River Usk and crowned by two quirky campaniles, the house was built in the 1880s in Italianate style. There are lovely grounds and, for fishermen, five salmon and trout beats along the river. For the last 70 years it has been in the same family, and Susie and James Suter have run it with hands-on dedication for more than 20 years. Sitting on the wide stone terrace with nothing but the sound of birdsong and the rushing river is pretty unbeatable – it’s hard to imagine a more peaceful hotel. For peace to really take hold a hotel has to be loved by its owners and be genuine, unpretentious and satisfying for its guests. Gliffaes ticks both boxes. There are 23 bedrooms, four of which have superlative views over the river and the sky-high hill that shoots up beyond it.

With country house fabrics and comfortable bathrooms, the rooms are traditional and pretty. There are copious afternoon teas, James Suter’s knockout martinis and, in the dining room, satisfying dishes that hit the spot. A gem.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1874 730371; gliffaeshotel.com

THE GROVE OF NARBERTH

PHOTOS: OWEN HOWELLS PHOTOGRAPHY

NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

This striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and manywindowed; the other is gabled, with arts & crafts elements that continue inside. There are 25 beautiful bedrooms, including eight that are newly refurbished by top interior designer, Martin Hulbert. All have a view of the gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills, while some of the cottage suites come with fabulous new glass box garden lounges.

Hulbert was also tasked with creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground floor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements. Dinners in the Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan restaurant or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees. Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1834 860915; thegrove-narberth.co.uk 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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PENALLY ABBEY TENBY, PEMBROKESHIRE

This grand Welsh mansion exudes bonhomie, making you relax instantly and feel at home.

Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain brought the lovely, late 18th-century Gothic house, with its romantic ogee-headed doors and windows, stunningly back to life in 2014.

You enter a spacious hallway with a woodburning stove; there follows a bar opening onto a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room filled with locally collected antiques. Here, you’ll dine on delicious, local and homegrown produce, dished up in imaginative ways – try the Welsh lamb with broad beans and crushed Pembrokeshire potatoes. Melanie’s aesthetic – handily, she has a background in interior design – mixes the elegant and the traditional with judiciously stylish touches. The result?

All 12 bedrooms are equally restful and comfortable spaces, most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to spend time. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do in the area, which sums up the charms of this exceptional, friendly hotel and its lovely gardens.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com

THE RIVERSIDE INN, AYMESTREY

PHOTOS: OWEN HOWELLS PHOTOGRAPHY

LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE

Set on the southern edge of the Mortimer Forest, this black-and-white-timbered, 16thcentury inn sits prettily on the banks of the river Lugg, where guests sip local real ales and cider, contentedly watching the water meander slowly under the ancient bridge.

The six original bedrooms are homely, clean and very comfortable – we adore the three fabulous garden rooms, beautifully designed inside and out, with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own deck overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. The Riverside is ideally located for walkers on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail, as well as being perfectly positioned for fishing and shooting parties. But what people really come here for is the food.

Chef patron Andy Link cooks up a storm. As well as foraging for a myriad of ingredients, he grows 50 different fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welshborder produce. Simply the very best and always fabulous value.

Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 145

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Loch Clair, Glen Torridon at Sunrise, the Highlands of Scotland. By Clair Filson, taken from Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 14 (Ilex Press, £30)

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SCOTLAND

A land of freezing lochs and towering munros, ruined castles and pretty cottages, Scotland is exhilarating, wild and always captivating

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO

From eating at Green Michelin-starred restaurants to a memorable electric car road trip. By Amy Wakeham

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Book a table at Inver

Awarded one of Michelin’s first ever Green Stars back in 2021 – a title it managed to hang on to for 2022, too – Inver is a restaurant with rooms based in a former crofter’s cottage in an isolated spot on the shore of Loch Fyne. Chefowner Pamela Brunton dishes up the finest local seafood, game and meat, as well as local produce that’s both grown and foraged. A meal you won’t forget in a hurry. inverrestaurant.co.uk

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Go green fingered at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

Set in around 70 verdant acres, only one mile north of the city centre, the Royal Botanic Garden is a real gem in the Scottish capital. It offers a packed programme of exhibitions, interactive experiences, events and activities, all celebrating the power of plants and the natural world. It’s impossible to leave without feeling motivated to help preserve it for future generations. rbge.org.uk

With a 200-year vision for restoring its natural landscape, Wildland, made up of three vast Highland estates, is leading the way with its commitment to custodianship and conservation. Stay in one of its stylish lodges or cosy cottages, and take part in fishing, deer stalking (a key part of Wildland’s land management plan), pony picnics and guided 4x4 safaris. wildland.scot

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Cycle the Glasgow Green Route

Bustling with art, culture, shopping and foodie spots, Glasgow is a must-visit. Discover a more eco side of city with the Ovo Bikes Green Route, a cycle trail that takes in 12 of the city’s most sustainable businesses, from coffee bar Honey & Salt to upcycled furniture boutique Emily Rose Vintage. A great way to see the city. nextbike.co.uk

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Book a trip with Wilderness Scotland

Take all the hard work out of planning your next holiday and let Wilderness Scotland do all the leg work instead. Experts in sustainable tourism, it works to minimise the carbon emissions of all its guided, self-guided and private Scottish tours, aiming to achieve net zero by 2030. Any carbon it can’t cut, it offsets, as well as donating at least £5,00 per year to the John Muir Trust via its Conservation Contribution Scheme. wildernessscotland.com

PHOTOS: STEVE LLOYD; GETTY IMAGES; SCOTLAND THE BIG PICTURE

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Cast your rod at Wildland

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Take on the North Coast 500

Encompassing just over 500 miles of incredible Scottish scenery, from lochs to mountains to beaches, the North Coast 500 is one of the world’s most memorable road trips.

Charge up your electric car and hit the road – there are regular chargers available throughout the route, which can be planned into your journey via the North Coast 500 app. northcoast500.com

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Sip on a dram of whisky

B Corp business Nc’nean is a pioneering, predominantly female-led distillery on the Morvern peninsula on Scotland’s west coast. It’s certified organic, powered by 100 per cent renewable energy, and 1ast year became the first UK whisky distillery to be verified as having net zero carbon emissions from its own operations.

Take a tour, while sampling a few drams. ncnean.com

Paddle the Great Glen Canoe Trail

A low-carbon way to explore Scotland’s glorious Caledonian Canal, the Great Glen Canoe Trail covers 60 miles of the waterway, from Corpach (Fort William) in the west to Clachnaharry (Inverness) in the east. It takes about five days from start to finish, so prepare for real adventure – only experienced paddlers should do this one. greatglencanoetrail.info

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Hop on board a wildlife cruise

PHOTOS: STEVE LLOYD; GETTY IMAGES; SCOTLAND THE BIG PICTURE

Get up close to Scotland’s wonderful wildlife with a cruise around the country’s beautiful north-west lochs and coastline, Hebridean islands and even further afield. Family-owned Hebrides Cruises has a strong commitment to lowering its carbon footprint and reducing noise pollution and has a wildlife expert onboard every expedition to educate guests about the region’s fascinating natural habitats. hebridescruises.co.uk

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Hike the John Muir Way

Tackle Scotland coast to coast, via the John Muir Way. It’s named after the early conservation pioneer John Muir, who was born in Scotland and went on to set up many of the USA’s national parks, advocating for the protection of nature for the sake of the health of the planet and its inhabitants. You can follow in his philosophical footsteps by hiking the 134-mile route. johnmuirway.org 8

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

The Balmoral is Sir Rocco Forte’s beloved five-star property at the heart of Edinburgh, originally built in 1902 in impressive Scottish baronial style as a landmark for Waverley station. One of the world’s great railway hotels, The Balmoral’s clock is cleverly set three minutes fast to ensure guests never miss their trains. Exuding a timeless elegance, the bedrooms have been transformed by Olga Polizzi, deputy chairman and director of design for Forte Hotels. Highlights include the large signature suites: the Scone & Crombie and the Glamis. With up to three bedrooms and spacious living rooms, they make the ultimate Edinburgh base for couples and families. The Balmoral’s pair of restaurants offer a choice of fine or brasserie dining: Number One features a seasonal tasting menu, while Brasserie Prince marries the best of Scottish ingredients with fine French cooking. Afternoon tea is served under the dome of splendid Palm Court, while the noted whisky bar, Scotch, is a must for anyone partial to a dram from the 500-strong collection.

Doubles from £500 +44 (0)1315 562414; roccofortehotels.com

THE DUNSTANE HOUSES EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Positioned at the gates of Edinburgh’s vibrant West End, The Dunstane Houses are a pair of handsome Victorian villas that have been transformed into a single, stylish family-run five-star boutique hotel. Infused with the spirit and romance of Orkney, where the owners’ roots lie, the interior blends the elegance of the Scottish capital’s Old Town with vintage touches, contemporary flair and well-chosen art. The 35 bedrooms, spread between Dunstane House and Hampton House, are all different. Yours might have bold wallpaper and fabrics, a theatrical headboard, classic four-poster bed, in-room Victorian roll-top or fabulous Fired Earth bathroom. And at the heart of this unique bolthole, the elegantly laid-back Ba’ Bar provides all-day dining from a seasonally changing modern Scottish menu, and there’s an impressive selection of premium craft spirits to sample. The whisky cabinet is a connoisseur’s treasure trove of vintage single malts and blends. It’s really no wonder that it won the best guest hotel experience in Scotland at the prestigious Visit Scotland Thistle Awards in 2020.

Doubles from £184 +44 (0)131 337 6169; thedunstane.com 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE

Skye is one of the most spectacular places on earth and Kinloch sits in one of its most beautiful parts, the shores of Loch na Dal. Fittingly, given its history as a hunting lodge, it offers the services of its own ghillie, Mitchell Partridge, for stalking, fishing, foraging and wilderness walks – he’s very knowledgeable and known for providing great ‘craic’. Foodies flock here. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey. Although no longer living here, their reputation for the best Highland hospitality continues with their charming daughter, Isabella, at the helm and inspirational head chef, Jordan Webb in the kitchen. Unfussy seasonal cooking has always been its hallmark, from seared north Skye venison and Broadford chard to fillet of Lochalsh sea trout with fresh peas. Inside there’s a welcoming mix of the well-bred and unpretentious, with antiques, family portraits and a cosy whisky bar for a nightcap before guests head to bed in one of the attractive, seriously comfortable rooms. Kinloch is somewhere to relax and recharge, and always almost impossible to leave.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk

THE MACHRIE ISLE OF ISLAY, ARGYLL

What a spectacular setting, right by the dunes on the Isle of Islay. The Machrie has 47 clean-lined contemporary rooms, suites and lodges (the latter come with an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area). There’s a championship golf course designed by former European Ryder Cup vice captain D J Russell, e-bikes for exploring and scenic coastal pathways on the doorstep that lead to secluded beaches or the hills. The hotel can also arrange fishing trips and guided sea kayaking to spot seals, puffins and other wildlife. When it comes to downtime, there are three lovely lounges to relax in. Start the evening with a fine Islay malt whisky on the terrace of the 18 Restaurant & Bar – it has beautiful panoramic views across the green to the Atlantic Ocean – before tucking into dishes that celebrate Scotland’s natural larder. Highlights include wild Scottish partridge with wild mushrooms and barley, and North Sea hake with samphire and a wild herb potato terrine. Just a 25 minute flight from Glasgow or two hours by ferry from Kennacraig, Islay is accessible yet feels perfectly remote. The Machrie offers outstanding sea views and so much to explore on the island.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PIERHOUSE HOTEL PORT APPIN, ARGYLL

Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, The Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. A relaxed hotel, it’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world and for sampling the very best of its local produce.

The 12 bedrooms include several with loch views, which look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Head chef Michael Leathley is in charge of the Michelin-recognised and two AA Rosetteawarded seafood restaurant, where he calls his cooking ‘bringing the outside in’ – in other words, the freshest west-coast seafood such as creel-caught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters, plus Scottish meat, and vegetables, all prepared and cooked using classic, simple techniques. There is a lounge with a wood-burning stove, a Finnish sauna for relaxing after a day spent hiking or biking, and The Ferry Bar (named after the foot passenger ferry from Port Appin that has been running since 1750) where you’ll find an impressive selection of Scottish gins and more than 200 types of malt whisky to sample.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk

SCHLOSS ROXBURGHE KELSO, ROXBURGHSHIRE

A schloss in Scotland? Yes indeed: the Roxburghe Hotel, on a 300-acre estate in the Scottish Borders, was formerly owned by the Duke of Roxburghe and has hosted many aristocratic guests, including, reputedly, Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. It now mixes traditional Scottish hospitality with German innovation and sky-high standards. Re-opened in June 2019 after an extensive refurbishment by its new owners, the hotel has never looked better. Interiors by Kitzig Interior Design combine classic and contemporary with a mix of materials: Scottish patterns and colours, oak and natural stone. The 20 bedrooms are individually decorated and estate-to-plate ingredients focus on modern Scottish dishes with a French twist in the Sunlaws restaurant.

The country sporting and leisure facilities on the hotel’s estate are second to none, from fishing to the 18-hole championship golf course. Future developments include a separate extension scheduled for completion in 2022, consisting of 58 additional rooms, a new restaurant, state-of-the-art conference and banqueting facilities, and a 600 sq/m spa area with a heated outdoor pool.

Doubles from £235 + 44 (0)1573 450331; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE THREE CHIMNEYS COLBOST, ISLE OF SKYE

Clued-up foodies have been flocking to this renowned three AA Rosette restaurant with rooms on the shores of Loch Dunvegan for more than 35 years, attracted by its ethos of showcasing Scotland’s bountiful natural larder. Though it’s now part of The Wee Hotel Company, founded by Gordon Cambell Gray (alongside The Pierhouse, opposite), nothing has really changed on the food front, with virtually all ingredients sourced from within a few miles, as well as the wider Scottish Highlands. Head chef Scott Davies collects fresh lobster, crab and langoustines from the fishermen’s boats in Dunvegan’s harbour; lamb and beef come from nearby Vatten Farm, while double dived scallops are sourced from Sconser. For those who fancy a front-row seat watching the chefs in action, there’s also the Kitchen Table (bookable for groups of two to eight), where you can enjoy a journey through Skye’s bountiful larder. Next door, the House Over-By has six calming, beautiful rooms to choose from, all with luxury pampering products in the bathrooms.

It really is the ideal place to stay after a truly unforgettable dinner.

Doubles from £380 +44 (0)1470 511258; threechimneys.co.uk

THE TORRIDON TORRIDON, WESTER ROSS

A former and still very grand shooting lodge, The Torridon has one of the Highlands’ most stunning locations. It stands on a beautiful sea loch in 58 acres of parkland, with breathtaking views all around. The bedrooms in the main hotel blend its Scottish heritage with Victorianera features while those in The Stables are simple and cosy (there’s also The Boathouse, a self-catering waterside retreat rentable by the week). Dine in refined splendour at 1887, with the very best Scottish produce expertly showcased by head chef Paul Green. The more casual brasserie, Bo & Muc, housed in what was once the estate’s old buttery and dairy, offers dishes such as Elgin lamb and beer battered fish. At both, menus evolve with the seasons, with much of the meat and vegetables coming from the onsite farm and kitchen garden. After dinner, head for the whisky bar, which is stocked with more than 350 malts. There are many outdoor activities on the doorstep too, from cycling and bird watching to kayaking and hiking.

Doubles from £305 +44 (0)1445 791242; thetorridon.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 153

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IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

From its coasts’ wild beauty to its rich green mountains, the landscapes of Ireland and Northern Ireland are rich in history and culture

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PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

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National Convention Centre and Samuel Beckett Bridge on River Liffey, Dublin

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TEN GREEN THINGS TO DO From learning to cook for the planet to rehabilitating seals. By Ellie Smith

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Explore Burren Nature Sanctuary

Wildflower meadows, fairy woodlands and a disappearing lake await at Burren Nature Sanctuary: 50 acres of untamed land in the village of Kinvara. Described as an ‘ark’ of biodiversity, the site teaches about the unique landscape on a mile-long trail, meeting farm animals along the way. burrennaturesanctuary.ie

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Realign your chakras at Macalla

Situated on Clare Island on the west coast of Ireland, Macalla is an organic farm offering yoga retreats. These aim to restore a sense of balance – both within ourselves and with our relationship to the natural world. Take part in yoga sessions, brush up on your meditation skills and enjoy nourishing vegetarian food, made using produce grown on the farm. macallafarm.ie

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Get to know your seaweed

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Stock up at The Dairy farm shop

Driving through the Gleno valley you may be lucky enough to chance upon The Dairy, a whitewashed building perched between Carrickfergus and Larne. Headed up by Sandra McDowell, the farm shop showcases the vast range of local produce Northern Ireland has to offer, selling everything from chutneys to chocolates, alongside meat sourced from Sandra’s farm. thedairygleno.com

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Go zero-waste shopping

Swap your supermarket trip for a visit to Small Changes, a zero-waste grocer with locations in both Inchicore and Drumcondra. Bring your own containers and fill up on dry and fresh goods and household products, then grab a juice or smoothie from the on-site bar. The secret garden at the back of the Inchicore branch is worth a visit too. smallchanges.ie

PHOTOS: CELTIC ROUTES; GETTY IMAGES

Ireland has been celebrating the health benefits of seaweed for many centuries.

You can learn all about the ocean-born vegetable at The Sea Gardener, where resident expert Marie Power has been running seaweed workshops for many years. Join a foraging walk to discover how to source your own, finishing with a picnic on the beach. Stock up on seaweedbased products (seaweed tea, anyone?) back at base. theseagardener.com

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9

Get crafty at The Design House

One way to move away from fast fashion is by learning how to make and repair your own clothing. You can do this at The Design House in Dublin, which offers weekly classes in dressmaking. During the workshop, students will enjoy a glass of fizz or cup of tea alongside sweet treats from the in-house café. thedesignhouse.ie

10 6

6

Meet rescued seals

Seal Rescue Centre in Courtown, County Wexford is a charity dedicated to the rescue, rehabilitation and release of sick and injured seals across the Irish coast. Visitors are invited to come and learn about the process, assist staff in preparing feeds and be inspired to join the efforts to protect seals in the wild. If you can’t make it in real life, they also offer virtual rescue experiences. sealrescueireland.org

Help clean up the beaches

Ireland’s coastline is riddled with beautiful beaches – but we need to protect them. Do your bit by getting involved with one of Clean Coasts’ beach cleans. Join a group event or do your own #2minutebeachclean: pick up all the litter you can in two minutes and dispose of or recycle it properly – then post a snap on Instagram to build momentum. cleancoasts.org

7

Become an eco-friendly cooking expert

Sustainability sits at the heart of Ballymaloe, Ireland’s world-renowned cookery school – so it makes sense that there’s a course dedicated to the topic. The six-week Sustainable Food Programme encourages us to rethink our food systems, covering topics like the importance of bees, foraging and urban farming. cookingisfun.ie

8

7

Book a table at Loam

Galway restaurant Loam has held its Michelin star since 2016 – but even more impressive are its environmental credentials. The name translates as rich, fertile soil, which sets the tone for the nose-to-tail menus, made using ingredients solely from the west of Ireland. Loam is involved in many community initiatives too, including running cookery demonstrations for school children. loamgalway.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS

One of Ireland’s most important neoclassical houses, Ballyfin stands in its own 614-acre demesne, which includes a lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views. A Downton-esque knot of staff await guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school, yet warm and friendly – Richard E Grant once quipped that it is ‘like stepping back in time, without the inconvenience of no electricity’. The reception rooms are filled with superb antiques and paintings, and there’s the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and treatment rooms. The 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country house fashion. There is also a beautiful private Gardeners Cottage available to rent. As for the food, with the highly regarded Sam Moody at the helm – he won a Michelin star for the Bath Priory – it effortlessly lives up to the surroundings.

Standards are sky high at Ballyfin, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does: this is one of Europe’s great hotels.

Doubles from €740 +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE RECESS, COUNTY GALWAY

Set at the foot of the Twelve Bens on the Wild Atlantic Way, Ballynahinch Castle has a history as colourful as its riverside setting is stunning. Surrounded by 700 acres of rugged Connemara landscape, this Relais & Châteaux hotel has a big heart that captivates its many returning guests (it enchanted Seamus Heaney, who wrote his fine poem, Ballynahinch Lake, while staying here). Bedrooms are spacious, comfortable and recently redecorated with elegant floral wallpaper and artworks; some also come with modern four-poster beds. The big draw is the superb salmon fishing (the atmospheric, wood-panelled pub is full of memorabilia and has a famous set of weighing scales) but other activities on offer include guided estate walks on woodland trails, and shooting masterclasses. In the fine dining restaurant, which is hung with superb 20th-century Irish art, the best tables are those overlooking the Owenmore River. Stewarding the kitchen is head chef David Bodas, who took over in 2019, and works very closely with the estate team to ensure produce grown in the walled garden appears on the menu all year round.

Doubles from £210 +353 (0)95 31006; ballynahinch-castle.com 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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CURRAREVAGH HOUSE LOUGH CORRIB, COUNTY GALWAY

‘Things have always stayed the same here,’ says Henry Hodgson, the fifth generation to run the family home as a guest house, ‘it would be rude to change them now.’ And that’s the joy of this Victorian country house, which first welcomed paying guests in 1890 as a sporting lodge. Beautifully set on the shores of Lough Corrib, with huge sash windows and original shutters, the house was built in 1842, though the family has owned the estate since the 18th century. Inside, you are transported to a calmer, more dignified time (wifi is the only modern concession), where a gong heralds dinner and the breakfast coffee is served in original Fifties glass Cona siphons, warmed by methylated spirit burners. Henry is charming, funny and totally at ease; his wife Lucy (they have three young daughters) is a marvellous cook and dinner is always delicious. You feel completely relaxed: even more so with the addition of the new boathouse sauna, sitting right at the water’s edge. What more could you possibly want? Room keys? ‘We don’t have them,’ says Henry, ‘your things will be perfectly safe.’ And you know, without doubt, that he speaks the truth.

Doubles from €190 +353 (0)9155 2312; currarevagh.com

DROMOLAND CASTLE NEWMARKET-ON-FERGUS, COUNTY CLARE

The ancestral home of the O’Briens of Dromoland, whose lineage dates back a thousand years to Brian Boru, one of the last High Kings of Ireland, this historic castle hotel has been welcoming guests since the 16th century. As you’d expect, it’s fit for royalty, from the delightfully sumptuous bedrooms (the best suites each have a grand four-poster bed and a separate dressing room) to the finedining restaurant the Earl of Thomond, where chefs marry classical cooking techniques with the finest Irish local produce. The beauty of a stay here is that days are as relaxed or active as you wish. For those who want to take things slowly, why not spend the morning reading the papers by the fire in the antique-filled Gallery and drawing room, before booking in for pampering treatments in the spa? Meanwhile, the 450-acre estate offers country pursuits galore, including archery, clay shooting, horse riding, biking and falconry. Dromoland Lough is excellent for trout fishing, and boating, plus there’s an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool, walled gardens and nature trails to explore, and go-karting for the kids.

Doubles from €390 +353 (0)6136 8144; dromoland.ie 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 159

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GALGORM COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND

The River Maine flows through this 163acre parkland which is renowned for its Par-72 championship golf course and thermal spa – the first of its kind in Ireland.

Only 30 minutes’ drive from Belfast yet a world away, it has 125 bedrooms with Rolf Benz furniture and spacious marble bathrooms, plus new rustic-luxe shepherd’s huts in Galgorm Woods, each with an outdoor bath and firepit on the terrace.

Spend days in the spa, drifting between the riverside vitality pool and The Palm House, an ornate botanical structure set among olive trees and apple orchards in The Walled Garden – the perfect space to kick back with an aperol gin fizz cocktail.

Or playing golf: as well as the main course, there is a fantastic academy with a 24-bay floodlit driving range and the club’s Castle Kitchen + Bar. Elsewhere, there are more than 500 varieties of gin to choose from in the Gin Library and ample food choices for all, from the fine-dining, three AA Rosette River Room restaurant to the casual Fratelli Ristorante pizzeria and the Gillies Grill overlooking the stables.

Doubles from £275 +44 (0)28 2588 1001; galgorm.com

THE MERRION DUBLIN

Dublin’s finest hotel is effortlessly gracious.

Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat fires, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th- and 20th-century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced

by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. The fine dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, with the Garden Room Restaurant available for a more casual dining experience.

There’s also a spa with a pillared infinity pool, luxurious spa treatment rooms and newlyopened Hair Salon. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since The Merrion opened, but its quite a surprise to find that was just 25 years ago. It feels timeless.

Doubles from €310 +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com 160 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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THE OLD INN COUNTY DOWN, NORTHERN IRELAND

Set in the charming village of Crawfordsburn just 15 minutes’ drive from Belfast, The Old Inn (sister hotel to Galgorm, opposite, in County Antrim) is a lovely rural retreat full of character.

A black-and-white Tudor-style building, it has a wood-beamed bar with a crackling fire in winter and intimate nooks for whiling away the evening with a glass of wine. In the restaurant, the seasonal menu marries homely classics with French-inspired touches – think pub grub favourites (pork and sage scotch egg, pie of the day or a Ploughman’s) and dishes such as sizzling dry-aged rib-eye steaks.

Individually decorated with their own traditional style, rooms range from cosy Petite options to a suite which has a hot tub on the balcony overlooking Crawfordsburn Country Park, and a stand-alone cottage.

There is live entertainment every weekend and, coming soon, a new Tree Top Spa with a steam room, sauna and hot tubs – ideal for kicking back after a day exploring the surrounding countryside or a trip to the nearby seaside town of Bangor.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)28 9185 3255; theoldinn.com

THE RABBIT HOTEL & RETREAT COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND

Fresh from a £10 million revamp last year, The Rabbit Hotel & Retreat is the new laidback little sister to Galgorm, opposite. This lakeside retreat has four room types with a Scandi-inspired style – think cane bed heads, faded Persian rugs on wooden floorboards and tassel-fringed lighting. Some Comfy rooms come with an outdoor tub in a private courtyard while a pair of Luxe rooms each has a free-standing bath and views of the garden or lake. There are subtle nods to the bunny theme throughout, from the signature Jessica Rabbit rosé gin cocktail on the menu in Hunter’s Bar to the Relaxation Burrow spa which has its own beach with heated sand (perfect for a sunrise yoga session), a traditional Swedish sauna, aroma steam room, lakeside hot tub and Roman baths.

After a day spent chilling out, dress up for dinner at Rabbit Restaurant, where ItalianAmerican influenced dishes include seafood bouillabaisse and sticky ribs for two. Located just 20 minutes from Belfast City Airport and 10 minutes from Belfast International Airport, this is the ideal city escape.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)2894 432984; rabbithotel.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 161

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PRIVATE HOUSES

Castle or cabin? Sleek modern house or a stately pile? Whatever you’re craving for your next staycation, escape the crowds in one of these

Wye Valley Pods, part of Kip Hideaways’s curated collection of holiday homes

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BIBURY FARM BARNS BIBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In 2017, fourth generation farmer George Phillips and his wife Polly set about converting five ancient stone barns on their land into a self-catering rural retreat. The result is a series of gorgeous hideaways suitable for everyone from young families to large gatherings, each combining contemporary style with rustic character: wood-beamed kitchens, open-plan living spaces with log burners and private courtyards for al fresco dining. Photographs and paintings by local artists adorn the walls; there are huge marble-effect showers and verdigris bathrooms; snugs for film nights and boot rooms for kicking off muddy wellies after walks – perhaps along the River Coln or around chocolate-box Bibury village, a ten minute walk away. The largest, The Grain Store, sleeps ten and has a large cedar hot tub; the smallest, the Cart Shed, sleeps six. The barns can be booked individually or together, and there’s a concierge service so anything from a fully stocked fridge to chef-cooked dinners can be arranged. Located between Burford and Cirencester, this is an ideal base from which to explore the Cotswolds.

From £1,650 for a three-night weekend stay in a three-bedroom barn, low season +44 (0)1285 706188; biburyfarm.com

CORNISH GEMS CORNWALL

Make your next staycation booking a simple one. Cornish Gems has over 200 luxury holiday cottages and large houses across the county ready for you to fall in love with, from romantic nooks for two people to grand homes that sleep up to 20. One of the things that sets the Cornish company apart from other holiday providers is its sustainability credentials (it was recently shortlisted for the ‘Carbon Neutral’ award at the Cornwall Sustainability Awards and received the internationally recognised Green Tourism Silver award) and its willingness to go above and beyond for its customers. Once you’ve booked one of its hand-picked, five-star self-catering cottages, a team of local travel advisors will share their connections for private dining experiences, luxury pamper packages and culinary adventures, ensuring a flawless stay and utterly memorable break. So, whether you are after surfing and a sea view, or a wow-factor villa with a pool for all your friends to relax around, Cornish Gems will have a cottage or house that ticks all your staycation boxes.

From £980 +44 (0)1872 241241; cornishgems.com 164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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KIP HIDEAWAYS NATIONWIDE

Looking for a weekend away that’s just a bit unique? We’ve got exactly the thing for you. Kip Hideaways offers a curation of beautiful, boutique escapes across the country, all of which offer unforgettable experiences and have been handpicked by travel experts. Hunker down in a classic Airstream with incredible panoramic views in Skye or book the family-friendly Acorn Cabin in south Devon, a gorgeous riverside location that sleeps two adults and two children, and offers private fishing. Or check into the Author’s Escape cabin in north Devon, with its tranquil setting and sea views, or the Architect’s Hut in Dorset, with its conscience-salving eco design and personal hot tub. Wherever you end up booking, though, you can be sure that every rental is under-the-radar, and offers a totally unique and memorable stay. Kip Hideaways works on a membership system, meaning you’ll also receive special offers and gifts, as well as exclusive discounts, content and recommendations to get the most out of your stay, wherever that may be.

Membership from £17 a year or £3.99 a month kiphideaways.com

THE LAKES BY YOO LECHLADE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Discover a slice of bucolic bliss in the heart of Gloucestershire. Nestled among 850 acres of rolling meadows, farmland and woodland, The Lakes offers a tranquil escape. It began as a vision shared between property developer John Hitchcox and celebrated designer Philippe Starck, who dreamed of creating a modern retreat in the Cotswolds. The result is a delightful, secluded and secure holiday destination, ideal for families and couples to properly unwind. Everything you need is here, with luxurious houses, activities on or off the Lakes and swathes of greenery to explore.

Choose from a selection of cabins, apartments or houses, all with serene lakeside locations and unbeatable views – some even come with their own rowing boats, paddleboards and canoes.

For dining, there’s a lakeside café, bespoke private dining options, or the dedicated Guest Services team will fill up your fridge for a home-cooked feast. The Lakes offers a variety of bespoke experiences, from watersports and ziplining to arts and crafts workshops. Just want to chill out? Head to the Spa, with its gym, 17-metre heated pool, indulgent treatments and wellness centre.

Cabins from £695 per night +44 (0)1367 254 260; thelakesbyyoo.com 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 165

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

RUTLAND RETREATS OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Nestled in nature within a gated estate are Rutland Retreats’ stunning, eco-built timber and cedar-clad two and three-bedroom selfcatering cottages. With log burners, sedum roofs and smart finishes, the Retreats are ideal staycation accommodation for families. Each one has open plan living and dining spaces, master bedrooms with French doors that open onto the garden and a patio – perfect for sunlit morning coffee. Dine out at the adjacent Barnsdale Lodge Hotel (p 110), where fresh, locally sourced produce goes into the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by a passionate kitchen brigade. The Retreats are run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for their quality and location, represent superb value for money.

Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors.

Thanks to its location so close to Rutland Water, you are likely to see red kite, deer and partridge. This delightful country refuge offers peace, comfort and an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, riding, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county.

Doubles from £375 for a three-night stay +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

SAND & STONE ESCAPES NATIONWIDE

If you’re after a staycation with the ‘wow’ factor, then Sand & Stone Escapes has you covered.

Born out of a passion for design, quality and unique holiday stays, the brand’s impressive portfolio of coast and country hideaways and houses, can be found across the UK, including the Cotswolds, Devon, Oxfordshire, and Isle of Skye. Its Managing Director meets each property owner to determine whether their home is a suitable addition to the Sand & Stone family. As a result, the brand has curated an unbeatable selection of luxurious self-catering holiday homes to book. There’s its flagship property, Black Moon, a decadent oceanfront two-person bolthole situated on the shores of St Ives, perfect for romantic breaks. Or there’s handsome Lemail House, near Rock, a beautiful 18th-century farmhouse that sleeps eight. Alternatively, book The Tree House in the Cotswolds – a real-life treetop cabin nestled in a pretty wooded valley, offering a woodburning stove and a freestanding bath in front of bifold doors, which you can push back for an incredible al fresco bathing experience amid the leaves. A truly unique selection of escapes for your next weekend away.

Book from £125 per night +44 (0)20 8740 3097; sandandstoneescapes.com 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2022/23

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PRIVATE HOUSES

SAWCLIFFE MANOR SCUNTHORPE, NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE

Sawcliffe Manor is a real find tucked away in beautiful Lincolnshire. It hosts groups of up to 46 people across the manor house, three charming cottages, and a glamping yurt, making it an ideal destination for parties, weddings or any other kind of celebration.

You’ll be hosted by the Elwes family, who restored the manor, which is listed in the Domesday Book, 15 years ago. It’s located next to a 400-acre nature reserve, brimming with wildlife – spot wild ponies, hares, and rabbits – and is only a stone’s throw from the River Humber and the north-east coast. There’s plenty to do here, from relaxed evenings in the manor’s natural spa, complete with a wooden hot tub, ice bucket and copper milk baths, to private archery and axe-throwing lessons, to wine tastings and bonfires under the stars.

If you’re planning a wedding, then there’s a number of unique venues to choose from, including the magical 15th-century dovecotturned-non-denominational chapel. And as for food, expect a warm northern welcome, with delicious local produce supplied from nearby butchers and bakers for everything from a farmhouse breakfast to a wedding feast.

From £150 in a cottage and £1,500 in the Manor +34 (0)711020722; sawcliffemanor.com

TEMPLE GUITING MANOR & BARNS TEMPLE GUITING, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Old English charm combines with romantic Provençal style at Temple Guiting Manor & Barns, a Grade I-listed house built from golden Cotswold stone outside Cheltenham. The Tudor manor, which has five bedrooms and original features like wooden beams, panelling and mullioned windows, makes a memorable home-from-home for your next escape. It sits in 14.5 acres of gardens created by noted landscape designer Jinny Blom; these also host an all-weather tennis court, suntrap courtyard with a heated pool, wild swimming and boating lake, hot tub, play area and games barn. As well as the manor, there’s a converted five-bedroom barn, a three-bedroom granary and two idyllic one-bedroom hideaways. The estate can host parties of up to 34 adults plus two children.

And as for food, you’ll be well looked after: the estate has a team of skilled chefs ready to whip up everything from tasting menus and dinner party banquets to family barbecues. Plus, just down the road is Temple Guiting Pantry, a characterful café serving up breakfasts, lunches and afternoon treats. The perfect destination for an unbeatable family break.

Manor or Barn from £2,150; exclusive use £5,250 +44 (0)7748 118288; templeguitingmanor.co.uk 2022/23 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/HOTEL-GUIDE | 167

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Index 11 Cadogan Gardens

D 84

A Albion House Artist Residence Brighton Artist Residence Bristol Artist Residence Oxford Artist Residence Penzance Artist Residence Pimlico Askham Hall Augill Castle

68 48 69 32 84 128

129 88 100 33 159 130 150

East End Arms The Eastbury Hotel & Spa Ellenborough Park

58 50 101

F 69 158 158 150

The Feathered Nest Inn The Felin Fach Griffin Feversham Arms Four Seasons Hampshire Fowey Hall Hotel

101 143 130 59 34

118 110 48 85 85 70 49 142 100 164 86 118 142 49 129 86 87

G The Gallivant The Galgorm George and Dragon Gidleigh Park Gliffaes Hotel The Goring The Grand, York Grantley Hall Great Scotland Yard Hotel The Grosvenor, Stockbridge The Grove of Narberth The Grove The Gunton Arms The Gurnard’s Head

72 160 131 34 144 89 131 132 89 59 144

32 33 143 70 110 58 119 71 119 88 164 71 159

The Halfway Bridge Hambleton Hall The Hambrough Hare & Hounds, Levens Hare & Hounds, Newbury The Harper Hart’s Hotel Hartwell House & Spa Hazlitt’s Headlam Hall Heckfield Place Hell Bay Hotel Henry’s Townhouse Horse & Groom Hotel Endsleigh Hotel Meudon Hotel Tresanton Hurley House Hotel

R 121 37

K Kinloch Lodge Kip Hideaways The Kingham Plough

151 165 102

Langar Hall The Lakes by Yoo Lime Tree Hotel Lime Wood Linthwaite House The Londoner Lucknam Park The Lygon Arms Lympstone Manor Hotel

112 165 91 61 133 91 50 102 38

M The Machrie Hotel The Manor at Sway The Mayfair Townhouse The Merrion Hotel Middlethorpe Hall & Spa Middleton Lodge The Mitre, Hampton Court Moonfleet Manor

151 61 92 160 134 134 75 51

N The Nare The New Inn New Park Manor No 131 North House Cowes

38 39 62 103 62

72 120 35

H 87

The Ickworth The Idle Rocks

L

E

128

C The Cadogan Carbis Bay Hotel Cary Arms & Spa Castle House The Cat Inn The Cavendish Hotel Chewton Glen Cley Windmill Cliveden Congham Hall Hotel Corinthia London Cornish Gems The Crab & Lobster Currarevagh House

I 120

68

B Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballynahinch Castle The Balmoral Bank House Barnsdale Lodge The Bath Arms Batty Langley’s The Beaumont Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms The Bell at Skenfrith The Bell Inn, Langford Bibury Farm Barns Bingham Riverhouse Blakeney Hotel Bodysgallen Hall & Spa Bowood Brocco on the Park Brown’s Hotel Bulgari Hotel

The Dabbling Duck The Devonshire Arms Dorset Square Hotel The Double Red Duke Driftwood Dromoland Castle The Duncombe Arms The Dunstane Houses

73 111 60 132 73 121 111 74 90 133 60 35 90 74 36 36 37 75

O Oatlands Park Ockenden Manor The Old Coastguard The Old Inn One Aldwych

76 76 39 161 92

161 135 52 78 145 93 94 136 136 53 78 166

S Salcombe Harbour Hotel & Spa Sand & Stone Escapes Sawcliffe Manor The Scarlet SCHLOSS Roxburghe The Seafood Restaurant Seaham Hall Sloane Place The Spread Eagle St Enodoc St Pancras Renaissance Hotel The Star, East Sussex Storrs Hall The Sun Inn Dedham The Swan, Ascott-under-Wychwood

41 166 167 42 152 42 137 94 79 43 95 79 137 122 103

T Talbooth House & Spa The Tawny The Talbot Inn Temple Guiting Manor The Three Chimneys Thornbury Castle The Torridon The Trafalgar St. James Tudor Farmhouse

122 113 53 167 153 104 153 95 104

U

P The Peacock at Rowsley Penally Abbey The Pierhouse Hotel The Pig – at Bridge Place The Pig – at Combe The Pig – at Harlyn Bay The Pig – in the South Downs The Pig – In The Wall The Pig – Near Bath The Pig – On The Beach The Pig Polurrian on the Lizard The Portobello Hotel

The Rabbit Hotel & Retreat Raithwaite The Rectory at Crudwell The Retreat, Elcot Park The Riverside Inn, Aymestrey The Rookery Rosewood The Rose & Crown Romaldkirk Rothay Manor The Royal Crescent Hotel The Royal Oak Yattendon Rutland Retreats

112 145 152 77 40 40 77 63 51 52 63 41 93

Una St Ives

43

V The Victoria

123

W The White House Wild Thyme & Honey Wildhive Callow Hall Woolley Grange

123 105 113 105

Q The Queen’s Head

135

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Resort Bag & Atlanta Sunglasses

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