Great British Brands 2024 by Country & Town House Magazine

2024

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COLE & SON’S FIRST FLAGSHIP GALLERY IN THE HEART OF CHELSEA Since 1875 Cole & Son has been creating exceptional wallpapers with savoir faire.Throughout its almost 150-year history the design house has worked with best-in-class artisans and now, the brand has found a new home in the heart of Chelsea with a 200m2 ground floor flagship gallery displaying the brand’s vast portfolio of precious art pieces including wallpapers, fabrics, and ‘ready to style’ finished goods. The house is also home to a new by-invitation-only archive library, a sumptuous room holding designs, wood blocks, and archival documents belonging to Cole & Son from the past four centuries. Visit throughout 2024 for exclusive events, design talks, and more. 3 Jubilee Place, Chelsea London, SW3 3TD cole-and-son.com Cole&Son Country&Town House gatefold.indd 3 Page 1 Inside Mag.indd 1

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GBB 2024

Contents 10

EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS INDEX

FEATURES

WHAT DO YOU SEE? Educating audiences about AI and its possibilities is the mission of our cover creator Cameron-James Wilson 16 GREAT BRITISH BRANDS AWARDS Sponsored by Rathbones, find out which brands have been awarded the gongs for 2024 32 HERE COME THE ’BOTS AI is here to stay, but how can – and should – brands respond, asks Josh Glancy 52 REWRITING LUXURY’S RULES It is time to reimagine a better world – and luxury must play its part, says Diana Verde Nieto 90 THE CASE FOR FAIRER FASHION Climate activist Dominique Palmer advocates for a kinder, slower approach to fashion 140 SHARED SPACES & CULTURAL TRACES Kamin Mohammadi reminds us how important immigration is to our culture 190 WE ARE NATURE If we want businesses to be a force for good, look to the trees, says Giles Hutchins 242 IS THAT A ROBOT IN MY KITCHEN? Sebastian Conran on how the domestic robot will play a critical role in our homes 258 DREAM THE POSSIBLE What exciting innovations can we look forward to? asks James Bidwell 280 IS THE PEN MIGHTIER THAN AI? Author Irenosen Okojie explores how writers are beginning to interact with AI

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THE LIST

Ten emerging craftspeople to keep your eye on The most enduring British fashion buys The celebs banking on booze Six new names for your jewellery box This year’s unmissable exhibitions Screen International’s acting stars of the future Ten hotels to sleep in before you die Top chefs who are cooking up a storm Five trips to change your life The whiskies that should be in your cabinet Eco-architecture designs that truly wow

DIRECTORY 19

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Theo Fennell (p276), Barbour (p40), Vivienne Westwood (p294), Ascot Racecourse (p28)

Celebrating some of our most famous, original, unique and quirky British brands, from A to Z

ON THE COVER ‘Are we human?’ The answer is both yes and no. We worked with artist Cameron-James Wilson to create a cover that is at once arresting and interrogates the use of AI. Cameron featured Shudu, the world’s first digital supermodel, on the left, with an AI avatar of real model Alex Gondora, on the right. Read more about the story on page 10.

Editor Charlotte Metcalf Editorial Director Lucy Cleland Deputy Editor Amy Wakeham Copy Editors Harriet Compston, Stephen Cooper, Richard Hopton, Emma Love, Kate Patrick, Xenia Taliotis, Ben West Fashion Director Nicole Smallwood Sub Editors Katie Bamber, Andrew Brassleay, Anoop Bhuller and Tessa Dunthorne Creative Direction & Production Parm Bhamra Design & Production Mia Biagioni Online Content Director Rebecca Cox Deputy Online Editor Ellie Smith Online Writers Charlie Colville and Olivia Emily Online Assistant Martha Davies Social Media Manager Daniella Saunders Property & Marketing Associate Director Gemma Cowley Associate Publisher Ellie Rix Head of Fashion Emma Marsh Account Directors Pandora Lewis and Serena Knight Senior Account Manager Sabrina Raven Digital Sales Director Adam Dean Sales Support & Office Manager Xa Rodgers Finance Controller Lauren Hartley Finance Administrator Ria Harrison Chief Financial Officer Gareth Morris Chief Commercial Officer Tia Graham Chief Operating Officer James Thrower Managing Director Jeremy Isaac

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Copyright © 2024 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. Country & Town House, Studio 2, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL, +44 (0)20 7384 9011

PHOTOS: © JAYSON FONG

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REGULARS

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Editor’s LETTER

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Pragnell (p224); Shudu is the world’s first digital supermodel (p10); Garrard (p52)

PHOTOS: SHUDU © CAMERON-JAMES WILSON

t last summer’s London Design Biennale, I met Ai-Da, the world’s first humanoid robot artist. She was drawing crowds to her stand displaying her paintings and ceramics. A robot capable of such creativity, with her eerily fleshy-looking face, would have seemed extraordinary a year ago, but her presence was an indication of how exponentially fast AI is developing. It’s no wonder our Great British Brands are watching it closely. Some are eagerly embracing AI, others have little intention of doing so. But all brands are asking themselves what being human looks like in the age of artificial intelligence, which is why we chose it as our theme for this edition. And what better way to start interrogating it than with our cover? It is an entirely digital creation by artist Cameron-James Wilson, who urges us to wake up to AI – to notice and educate ourselves on what is real and what is not – and to bring humans into the creative space that AI opens up (with caveats). To understand how our cover was created is to open your eyes and your mind, so turn to page 10 to find out more. Journalist Josh Glancy, meanwhile, wondered what the point of him was when ChatGPT-4 appeared to menace his skills and livelihood. For GBB, he examines how much of a threat AI poses to our brands and craftspeople, happily concluding that he thinks we’ll always cherish human originality above ‘the grinding efficiency of an algorithm’ (p32). AI can analyse what we’re buying and want but, as Steve Jobs said, ‘People don’t know what they want until you give it to them’. The products, services and skills throughout this book, created through human endeavour and risk-taking, will continue to be the ones to surprise, thrill and delight in ways that AI cannot. Our brands are masters of excellence, as reflected in this year’s Great British Brands Awards, which are sponsored by Rathbones, personal wealth and asset managers. Find out on page 16 which brands our judging panel felt most deserving

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of the stunning silver trophies, designed and crafted by a very welcome newcomer to the Great British Brands family, Thomas Lyte. On page 140, British-Iranian writer and broadcaster Kamin Mohammadi explores the dehumanising aspect and divisiveness of the current political rhetoric around migrants and ‘stopping the boats’. Kamin, whose family fled to the UK from Iran during the 1979 revolution, argues that it’s worth remembering that nearly half of Britain’s most innovative start-ups were founded by immigrants and highlights the many, many ways in which they have contributed to our culture and success. That success no doubt includes the companies that offer optimistic solutions in the face of global challenges, as welcomed by the chair of global intelligence platform Springwise, James Bidwell on page 258. Last year saw GBB’s publisher Country & Town House become the first glossy magazine company in the world to achieve B Corp certification, of which we are immensely proud. We’re proud, too, of the many brands who work so hard to reduce their carbon footprint and are dedicated to help rescue our beleaguered planet. After the hottest year on record, this mission must be taken up with more and more vigour – especially when it comes to sustainable consumption. It is here that luxury has a huge role to play in persuading us to reimagine the world – with regeneration and experience at its heart. On page 52, Diana Verde Nieto, founder of Positive Luxury and author of just-published Reimagining Luxury, observes that the narrative around luxury is changing for the better – and that luxury and sustainability really are two sides of the same coin. To help brands and companies see themselves as part of this dynamic shift to becoming a force for good, it is well worth looking to the

PHOTOS: SHUDU © CAMERON-JAMES WILSON

We are on the cusp of extreme CHANGE, much of it still UNIMAGINABLE. Yet, the uncompromising pursuit of EXCELLENCE will always resist the erosion of QUALITY that a digital age might usher in

FROM ABOVE: Ahluwalia (p140), Daylesford (p80), PoB Hotels (p220)

trees, advises regenerative leadership coach Giles Hutchins. He takes business leaders – from brands as diverse as Chloé and Deloitte to McCain and McKinsey – into the woods to help them reconnect and learn from the world’s greatest teacher, nature, to understand better how to run businesses in alignment with the planet rather than opposed to her (p192). We are on the cusp of extreme, swift change, much of it still unimaginable. Yet the brands in this book, while adaptable, all demonstrate consistent excellence, born out of creativity, originality, imagination, innovation and determination. Such uncompromising pursuit of the very best will always resist the erosion of quality that a digital age might usher in. Our brands all aim to nurture personal, lasting relationships and many are building on years – and some, centuries – of expertise and traditional skills. Almost all talk about the importance of supportive teamwork, kindness and respect, fostering new talent, close listening, open-mindedness and care for community and planet. So, however much technology and AI transform the landscape, we’ll continue celebrating and supporting services and products that have soul, and are delivered and made by dedicated humans who care passionately. AI cannot begin to replace the results of such heartfelt human endeavour. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 5

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GBB 2024

CONTRIBUTORS Diana Verde Nieto Favourite British brand? Garrard, one of the oldest jewellery house in the world, founded in 1735 by George Wickes, has earned a fond place in my heart. What are you most looking forward to this year? We are poised at the beginning of an exciting era of reimagining. With a limited timeframe of six years, it is crucial that we take decisive action to curb the negative environmental impact of businesses. I am confident that this period will be marked by a surge in innovative solutions, as companies seek to reimagine their business models, supply chains, products, materials, and more.

CameronJames Wilson

Favourite British brand? Dyson – it's no easy feat to combine tech and luxury, while also remaining dedicated to innovation. Who could've anticipated it becoming one of the most coveted beauty tool brands? Who knows what its next move will be. What are you most looking forward to this year? This will be a year full of technological surprise and wonder. It's possible we may see the rise of true artificial intelligence, which could bring advancements even the best minds couldn't predict... or the end of the world. Who knows! But it's exciting.

Josh Glancy

Irenosen Okojie

Favourite British brand? Oban whisky. Partly because it goes down so smoothly and one can find it all over the world. And partly because it conjures happy memories of being stuck in Oban waiting for endlessly postponed ferries to the Hebrides. How do you see AI changing your life? I think AI will ultimately not replace me and will upend our lives in ways quite different to many of those that have been predicted. I am okay with all of this, as long as people immediately stop making ChatGPT gags in speeches.

Dominique Palmer Favourite British brand? It is difficult to pick just one, but Stella McCartney, Mother of Pearl and Damson Madder are among my favourites for style and sustainable pieces. How do you see AI changing your life? While it can be useful in monitoring forests and for other sustainability initiatives, I am concerned by the potential it has to harm artists, actors, writers and creators in particular. We must be careful of this because the best craft, art, and design comes from us, not from biased algorithms. So I am strongly against its use to replace human creativity.

Favourite British brand? I'm really impressed by what legendary Black British make-up artist Pat Mcgrath DBE has achieved with her brand Pat McGrath Labs. It's slick, decadent and has a global feel, and it always seems like a treat to get products from her line. It's amazing as well as inspiring to see a Black British woman achieve that level of success. What are you most looking forward to this year? My novel Curandera coming out in June. It's about shamanism and unruly appetites. Partly historical. It's a meditation on complex female desire and friendship.

Sebastian Conran How do you see AI changing your life? I find that social media is beginning to have a corrosive effect on society and personally no longer participate in it; that said I can see that it has its uses, but we all seem to becoming Slaves to the (Algo) Rhythm (apologies to Grace Jones). What would you like to see Great Britain do in 2024? Reduce our addiction to consumerism, waste, energy consumption and political bickering. Espouse traditional ‘British Values’ such as tolerance and fairness and let’s forget our petty resentments.

GR E AT BR I T I SH BR A N DS T O YOU R I N BOX Celebrating our homegrown talent each month with carefully curated guides to the best of British, sign up to the monthly Great British Brands newsletter now. countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter 6 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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bri ti s h fa m i ly p e r f u m e r s s i n c e 1 7 30 Steeped in history and now in its 9th generation, discover the skill and artistry that goes into the creation of a Floris fragrance. Made in Britain, using the finest essential oils and essences from around the world.

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GBB 2024

CONTRIBUTORS James Bidwell

Kamin Mohammadi What would you like Great Britain to do in 2024? I would like to see it change this horrifying rhetoric on immigration and go back to being the country of kindness, tolerance and wit, the country that gave us shelter and safety and opportunity. What are you most looking forward to this year? I think 2024 will be a year of radical kindness, connection and humanity. How do you see AI changing your life? I believe AI will serve to heighten our humanity, which tech, however sophisticated, cannot replicate. We could use more empathy for the human condition.

How do you see AI changing your life? At the moment Copilot is like having another pair of hands to increase my productivity at work and also at home. Going forward, I can see huge advantages but also a more dystopian world with AI in the wrong hands. It will certainly be massively transformational as to how we live. What would you like to see Great Britain do in 2024? We're still suffering from the Brexit fallout. I would like us to regain our confidence and take the lead on the energy transition, climate change and AI. We need strong and consistent leadership.

Giles Hutchins Favourite British brand? Vivobarefoot. Not only is its purpose and strategy about taking people on meaningful health and wellbeing journeys connecting them to nature, but the brand also tries hard to live and breathe this purpose. What would you like Great Britain to do in 2024? Become aware of its emerging identity, purpose and unique contribution as a nation of diverse peoples working together for a better future. To celebrate multi-generational, multicultural entrepreneurialism that provides examples of regenerative business-as-a-force-for-good.

Lucinda Chambers Favourite British brand? I have a soft spot for my local butcher, HG Walter. The sausages are second to none, it has been in Barons Court ever since I can remember, and the service is brilliant. How do you see AI changing your life? Like all advances in technology it’s a very exciting time and like almost everything, it depends how you use it! What would you like to see Great Britain do in 2024? I’d like to see the country move forward positively across all areas and feel that a new year is a great opportunity for this.

Fiona Duncan

Andrew McMullan

Favourite British brand? Marmite, because I can’t live without it, it’s been going since 1902 and it’s spawned a very useful way of describing a strong like or dislike. How do you see AI changing your life? For better if we effectively regulate it and stay in charge of it; for worse if we do not. What would you like to see Great Britain do in 2024? Get a grip. What are you most looking forward to this year? Springtime – I can’t wait – and all the new hotels to discover in the beautiful British countryside.

How do you see AI changing your life? Its integration into environmental analysis and sustainable building design will be transformative. AI's ability to analyse complex environmental data will significantly enhance project design and execution – pointing towards a future where AI aids us in creating more sustainable and efficient buildings. What would you like to see Great Britain do in 2024? Advancing the goals of the UK Plastics Pact by 2024 is ambitious yet necessary – achieving 100 percent reusability, recyclability, or compostability of all plastic packaging would be a significant step.

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Visit our Showroom 110 Fulham Road, London FABRIC | WALLPAPER | FURNITURE | HOME ACCESSORIES

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GBB 2024 —— ON THE COVER Cameron created an AI avatar of real model Alex (on the right) as we wanted to show the potential of models being able to create AI clones of themselves and therefore able to make passive income. Cameron then Photoshopped her together with fictional model Shudu, in clothes inspired by Alexander McQueen. Real earrings from Boodles were then Photoshopped on both models

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WHAT DO

YOU SEE?

This year’s Great British Brands cover features the world’s first digital supermodel Shudu and an AI avatar of real-life model Alexsandrah Gondora. LUCY CLELAND talks to the creator, Cameron-James Wilson, about why it’s imperative for us all to educate ourselves on AI ARTISTIC DIRECTION NICOLE SMALLWOOD

VISUALISATION CAMERON WILSON & TOM LOCKYER

PRODUCTION THE DIIGITALS AGENCY

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GBB 2024 —— ON THE COVER

‘I THOUGHT THAT PEOPLE SHOULD BE AWARE THAT THIS TECHNOLOGY EXISTS AND WHAT WAS PREVIOUSLY ONLY REALLY AVAILABLE FOR HOLLYWOOD MOVIES WAS NOW ACCESSIBLE AT HOME’ ne thing AI can’t really do is to be imperfect,’ said the Australian director Baz Luhrmann in a recent interview. We’d probably like for that to be true, for isn’t it in the unique grain of the wood, the colouration of a stone, the wrinkle of a smile that human connection lies, and feels relatable, empathic and ultimately loveable? But AI, in the hands of a human artist and creative, can embrace imperfection too. And that is why it’s so important that we truly understand it. So, what better place to start investigating such a potent issue – and all the other questions it throws up – than with our cover? Let us begin with a story. Once, there was a fashion photographer called Cameron-James Wilson, who goes by the pronouns ‘they’ and ‘them’. They were used to travelling the world shooting the likes of Gigi Hadid for fashion editorials and campaigns. However, in 2017 they took a step back, realising that the industry was changing rapidly with the shift to digital and they couldn’t create what they wanted to anymore, so it was home to mum in Weymouth, Dorset, for a few months. During that time, Cameron began exploring their love of CGI and sci-fi movies such as Avatar, and stumbled across Daz 3D, a programme that allowed them to create their own 3D characters, and change everything from skin tone and features to poses and clothes. And so Shudu, the world’s first 3D digital supermodel, who appears on our cover on the left, was born. ‘It just blew up,’ they said, ‘Shudu went viral [when Fenty and Tyra Banks reposted the image]. It was insane.’ The internet was desperate to find out who this glamorous Black model was but, keeping quiet for the time being, Cameron built out Shudu’s channels (she now has 241k Instagram followers), believing that people would soon catch on to the fact that she wasn’t real. They didn’t. Which was a warning sign. ‘So I came out so to speak,’ says Cameron. ‘I thought that people should be aware that this kind of technology exists and what was previously only really available for Hollywood movies was now accessible to people at home. It’s really amazing and exciting, but it also has the potential to deceive people.’ On outing themselves, the inevitable backlash about appropriation, taking jobs and Black beauty ideals from a white man creating a Black digital model bore down on them. But Cameron welcomed the debate and learned from it – including finding Black writer Ama Badu via a social media shout-out to create Shudu’s Instagram posts and be her voice in interviews. They are mindful of the fact that they don’t want to take money or jobs from real women, especially Black women: ‘Having worked in the fashion industry, I know how hard Black women work to get the jobs that they do’. So it’s reassuring to know that Cameron uses real humans in the process 12 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FROM LEFT: Cameron-James Wilson is the creative force behind The Diigitals, the world’s first digital model angency; Shudu as inspired by Grace Jones

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GBB 2024 —— ON THE COVER

as much as possible – from models (who pose as Shudu) and writers, to hair and make-up artists – to ensure that there is both professional and creative input, and economic benefit for those involved. They went on to set up the world’s first digital model agency, The Diigitals, and now have eight characters on their books, including curvy model Brenn, complete with stretchmarks, and most recently Kami, the world’s first virtual avatar with Down Syndrome, created in partnership with UK-based Down Syndrome International. They picked up work with titles such Vogue and WWD, and global brands like Balmain, Louboutin and Lexus and were, inevitably, in high demand during the pandemic, when companies – desperate to save their campaigns and with no way to use real models – turned to Cameron and their 3D ones for help. And now, with the mainstream arrival of generative AI, Cameron believes there is the potential to make something that is indistinguishable from real life: the deep fake, which is what should scare us most. ‘I really want to educate people,’ they say. ‘It is incredibly important because we’re moving into a new age where what you see is not necessarily what it is. I see more and more AI images being shared on social media, and there are literally hundreds, sometimes thousands, of comments from people not realising how they’ve been created. It’s obvious to me, because I work with these images, but the general public are being easily deceived.’ Cameron is transparent about their creative process – they step me through the computer programs they use (generative image maker Midjourney being the main one), how they put the images together (overlaying a dozen variants of the same image to create a final composition – generative AI creates no image the same), the use of Photoshop and how the images are credited etc. As an artist, Cameron is also alert to the fact that just using AI-generated images without questioning on what biases those images were created becomes an issue of ethics. ‘If you know any of these generative AI imagery tools, you’ll know that they’re also incredibly biased,’ says Cameron. ‘They really only create models that look one way – usually very pretty, symmetrical etc, but they have all of these beauty biases built into them because they were created by people who have biases.’ Cameron therefore actively creates characters that are both diverse and ‘imperfect’. For example, Shudu may look like a model of perceived flawless and skinny perfection, but her proportions are slightly larger than your typical catwalk model. For our cover, the aim was to create something that ‘opened people’s eyes and educated them,’ says Cameron. ‘And yes, it’s a beautiful piece of art, but it should also be a little bit of a warning. There will be no way for us to really educate people on AI without illustrating it, and showing them the processes, and talking about what goes on behind it and what to look for.’ So while there is the completely fictional Shudu on the left, on the right Cameron created a digital counterpart of real-life model Alexsandra Gondora, who often works as a muse for Shudu, as the first of its kind by The Diigitals. Alex has been working alongside Cameron since the creation of the agency and has reprised her role as Shudu many times for many notable brands, so to feature them together was a way of exemplifying how real people can walk through this new virtual landscape. Alex – who already earns as a model under her own name (she has shot for the likes of H&M, Vivienne Westwood and Nike) was paid to for using her AI avatar, adding another income source for her. We begin to see how the story of Cameron and our cover can play a part in understanding how we might play, interact and work with this new technology, bringing people with us rather than shutting them out (although there will inevitably be a slew of bad actors who will exploit it). By involving humans in the creative process, ensuring that they are compensated financially and that images are appropriately credited for transparency, Cameron exemplifies an ethical path into this brave new world, which others should be minded to follow. As for Cameron, how do they feel about it all? ‘I’ve never felt more empowered to be able to create what I see in my head. It’s so incredibly fast for me to just communicate to somebody what I’m thinking visually in my mind. I know there’s a lot of concern over AI, which I can definitely see. But I also see it as a tool that until you’ve used it and started to understand it, you can’t really see the benefits of it.’ So, as with every good cover, there’s a story behind it – and we hope you will read on and explore your own feelings and thoughts about generative AI, and its implications for good and bad. Like anything new and ‘scary’, it is only by educating ourselves that we can retain a sense of autonomy. There is no other option. thediigitals.com n

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The Diigitals models and influencers include J-Yung, Shudu (and above), Kami and Brenn

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2024 AWARDS Sponsored by RATHBONES

We are delighted to celebrate the best of Great British Brands with our 2024 awards, judged in a year of accelerating change and challenge

T H E J U D G I N G PA N E L

Caroline Rush Chief Executive of the

British Fashion Council Caroline has been widely credited with positioning the British fashion industry as a hotbed for emerging design talent.

Jamie Gill

Fashion & Luxury Executive Chair of the BFC's Diversity & Inclusion Committee, Jamie recently founded The Outsiders Perspective, a talent incubator supporting people of colour.

Nazy Vassegh

Cultural Connector, Strategist & Art Advisor After 19 years at Sotheby's, Nazy transformed Masterpiece Fair, and founded innovative art platform Eye of the Collector.

Jennifer Mathias

Group Chief Financial Office for Rathbones Group PLC In charge of the company’s DEI strategy, Jennifer is also an independent non-exec director of the Welsh Rugby Union.

The Judges’ Award

A brand that has continued to excel and lead the way, growing and protecting its workforce, its skills, craft and quality, while forging strong bonds with its customers and finding ways to support people and planet.

BERRY BROS. & RUDD WINNER

The 325-year-old Royal Warrant holder constantly innovates – take BBX, its online private wine exchange, or its award-winning No.3 London Dry Gin. Meanwhile, it continues using its historic premises to entertain and forge close, lasting relationships with customers. All this, while raising a substantial amount for charity annually. 16 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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T H E C A T E G O RY W I N N E R S

A Friend to the Planet

A brand that shows outstanding commitment to protecting and regenerating our planet and environment

BARBOUR

A Friend to its Community

A brand that not just supports its own people and its value and supply chains, but also reaches out to its own communities

RED SAVANNAH

WINNER

For showing consistent commitment to preserving the planet and the British countryside and setting a bold example to the entire industry by defying fast throwaway fashion by continuing to extend the life of its garments through its circular Wax for Life initiative.

For supporting the Rainforest Trust UK and fully engaging with, understanding and supporting local communities’ needs, while actively seeking suppliers who help eliminate the wealth gap that disadvantages some neighbourhoods.

HIGHLY COMMENDED

GROUNDTRUTH Driving positive change by making backpacks from recycled materials, using innovative methods to capture carbon.

DIFFERENCE COFFEE For improving the lives of growers and educating girls who otherwise might be engaged in child labour.

A Friend to Craft

A brand that has harnesses new tech to keep traditional skills alive or exemplifies why the old ways are still the best ways

THEATRE ROYAL DRURY LANE

Most Imaginative Product

A brand that has designed and made a truly outstanding and imaginative new product

886 BY THE ROYAL MINT

WINNER

For using the magnificent, historic listed building as a vehicle to showcase the very best of British craft and, beyond the superbly restored theatre, for employing skilled artisans to create an all-day experience worthy of a five-star hotel.

For repurposing the Royal Mint’s manufacturing facilities to create original and sustainable jewellery collections, using gold reclaimed from electronic waste as well as being the first in its industry to use silver reclaimed from NHS and other hospitals’ discarded X-ray films.

HIGHLY COMMENDED

EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY For continuing to make us smile with its beautiful, colourful and well-made parasols.

ALAN SCOTT For creating a totally new patented stretch cashmere fabric for the innovative menswear brand, launched last year at Harrods. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 17

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The Renaissance Collection

020 7730 2122 | jamb.co.uk

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GBB 2024

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR 20

ALAN SCOTT 22

ALEXANDRA LLEWELLYN 24

ANNOUSHKA 26 ASCOT RACECOURSE 28 ATELIER NM 30

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GBB 2024 —— A

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR

Democratising the art market for 25 years, now in 14 countries worldwide

‘R

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Asking questions of the gallerist or artist gives me a deeper understanding

of the story or reasons behind an artwork. ◆ Artists open our eyes and help us to appreciate things we might not have noticed. ◆ Travelling to our art fairs abroad, I have learnt that a lot of art is place-specific, reflecting the place’s colours and character.

PHOTOS: © SHAUN JAMES COX; © GUY BELL; © SPINACH; ART: © DEAN WEST

unning art fairs all over the world, it remains really important that we retain the human touch. We do this in several ways. Our local teams are vital in connecting with the galleries at a local level. We take a “glocal” approach; we look at the business both globally and locally. We rely on the people on the ground but train them in the lessons we’ve learnt over 25 years of operating worldwide. We also have a central, global marketing team. It’s interesting from this perspective that geography affects art. Artists in Spain and Italy will use hot colours, reds and oranges, but Cornish ones the colours of the sea. Some art travels but some doesn’t. From the point of view of making art, there are two problems with AI. One is that AI is essentially derivative; it relies on what it can find on the internet. To create worthwhile art, you need to be human, observing what is going on in the world. The other is that many people are born to be artists – not everyone can be a banker or an entrepreneur, and art is a fundamental part of the human condition. The human element is important, too, in Will Ramsay, founder and CEO selling art, in the interaction between the

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‘THE HUMAN ELEMENT IS IMPORTANT IN SELLING ART, IN THE INTERACTION BETWEEN THE BUYER, THE ARTIST, AND THE GALLERIST’ buyer, the artist, and the gallerist. There are three strands to this: the buyer loving the artwork itself, appreciating its texture and how it’s been made; the engagement with the artist and the seller; and, thirdly, the social element. People like meeting their friends to have a drink while talking about and buying art. AI does, of course, have its part to play in making processes more efficient, but in the end this business is about people, and I can’t see a business succeeding that has used AI too much.’ Will Ramsay, CEO and founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

What started as a fair in Battersea Park in 1999 is now a global movement celebrating art and artists, and connecting them with buyers

Photography by Dean West on display

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Founding the Affordable Art Fair in 1999 to make owning art accessible. In 2025 we’ll be celebrating 25 years of fairs.

Helping over 3,200,000 art lovers connect with great art, generating over £495m in sales for independent galleries and artists.

PHOTOS: © SHAUN JAMES COX; © GUY BELL; © SPINACH; ART: © DEAN WEST

Our charity work. It generates over £100,000 a year in the UK alone for emerging artists and local charities, through donations and in-kind support.

Developing an art-loving community where everyone is welcome. Both exhibitors and visitors return year-on-year to see what’s fresh and new at our fairs.

Our forthcoming expansion in 2024, as we launch the winning Affordable Art Fair concept in Austin, Berlin, and Brisbane.

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Upcoming London Fairs: Battersea Spring, 6-12 March Hampstead, 8-12 May Battersea Autumn, 16-20 October affordableartfair.com affordableartfairuk

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GBB 2024 —— A

ALAN SCOTT

The launch of a revolutionary new cashmere-based menswear brand

A‘

lan Scott is an innovative new luxury menswear brand that launched in 2023. Taking almost three years to develop due to the nature of the product, it utilises a patented new fabric made from cashmere. The fabric’s allure lies in its unprecedented ability to stretch – a ground-breaking fusion of luxurious textiles and avant-garde technology. The actual feel of it is amazing. It is really exciting creating something that doesn’t exist in the market. Growing up with birds of prey, due to my father’s profession as a falconer, I draw inspiration from them for the design of this clothing collection. The leatherwork, gestures, and stitching all reflect the intricate details found in birds of prey, giving me an authentic starting point to establish this brand. The product is meticulously craf ted in Italy, where artisans create perfection. It exudes a sense of craftsmanship and artistry. The collection effortlessly embraces comfort, whether worn casually or in the boardroom or aboard a plane. Its international appeal caters to discerning individuals of high net worth, who traverse the globe yet refuse to be confined by traditional suits. Months of painstaking preparation were required to meet the demand for our stock at Harrods. However, their unwavering belief in our vision led to an

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Having the patience not to rush to launch, carefully unlocking the message

to create the necessary desire for a new luxury brand. ◆ Keeping focused on the brand story and its unique patented stretch technology. ◆ Embracing the modern diverse customer landscape by creating something international and special that resonates with customers.

PHOTOS: © BRYAN ADAMS; © COPPI BARBIERI

The brand makes an exciting addition to the luxury British menswear landscape

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‘THE FABRIC’S ALLURE LIES IN ITS UNPRECEDENTED ABILITY TO STRETCH – A GROUND-BREAKING FUSION OF LUXURIOUS TEXTILES AND AVANT-GARDE TECHNOLOGY’ extraordinary opportunity: a pop-up shop that materialised from mere dreams. It was an awe-inspiring experience to go into there with no prior history, a testament to their unwavering faith in our brand. The possibilities for this remarkable fabric are endless, with countless variations waiting to be explored. By infusing it with silk, linen, and other natural fibres, we can breathe new life into its essence, creating really special collections of clothes.’ Alan Scott, Founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launching the brand exclusively in Harrods in September 2023 with a pop-up store on the mens’ international designer floor, and a space dedicated to made-tomeasure for private clients.

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Working with musician Bryan Adams in 2023 to shoot the first pieces, styled by Creative Director Jo Hambro.

Working with Coppi Barbieri in 2023. They photographed my father’s falconry kit, creating inspirational pictures like Old Masters, incorporating the leather pieces of hoods and gauntlets alongside the fabrics.

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PHOTOS: © BRYAN ADAMS; © COPPI BARBIERI

Having my original oil-oncanvas paintings of birds of prey displayed in Harrods in 2023, as the backdrop to the collection.

Proving that the fabric and technical stretch innovation works and is appreciated by the customers.

ALAN SCOTT Friars Well Farmhouse, Hulne Park, Alnwick, Northumberland NE66 2JL +44 (0)1665 600949 alanscott.co.uk alanscottcashmere

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GBB 2024 —— A

ALEXANDRA LLEWELLYN

Exquisite British hand-made gaming boards and tables

‘I

t’s been a wonderful year with some amazing private commissions. I’m so happy with our showroom. Being in the heart of Belgravia in a beautiful mews has meant we can host events and clients can come and see us by appointment. It’s really made a difference. My shop window will always be games, because that’s the wonderful niche we love and own, but we’ve started making things like humidors, furniture and desks. We made five one-off humidors and a backgammon board for the Surf Club at the Four Seasons in Miami, launching a lovely relationship. We’ve also created a new table-top backgammon board, working with beautiful printed leather for the first time. I’ve started doing more corporate commissions with two or three massive projects on the go, but I don’t want to grow too big as everything I design is limitededition. More and more people want one-offs so we’ll always be making in small quantities. I’m designing so much that I’d be thrilled if AI could replace me – but it can’t because what I do is so very personal! We still hand-make everything in England, except for our Spanishmade travel sets. I rely totally on my skilled creatives – Joe for marquetry, Phil for cabinetry and Stewart for polishing. I probably speak to Joe six times a day and

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Black and white marquetry Butterfly backgammon set; Vortex backgammon set; Jungle poker set; Alexandra at her Belgravia Studio

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ It’s all about relationships with craftspeople, suppliers and customers. ◆ There will always be ups and downs but take it on the chin, keep

learning and keep moving forwards. ◆ The importance of integrity and remaining true to yourself in terms of design. Don’t rush and let creativity take the time it needs. 24 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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I love seeing first-hand how the products are developing. To design really well I need to understand the making techniques, so it’s a symbiotic relationship and we’re in a constant conversation about how to improve things. I have a small, intimate, wonderful customer base and I focus on my relationships with them rather than on press or PR. Given most people only know about us via word-of-mouth, it’s exciting and amazing that our biggest market is in the US now.’ Alexandra Llewellyn, founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Designing the first circular backgammon board in 2014. It was satisfying to see fans enjoying this ancient game in a completely new format and seeing how it makes total sense.

Working directly with Terry O’Neill on the ‘Goddesses’ backgammon set in 2016 was the greatest honour and we’re proud to have collaborated with artists and makers from different disciplines, providing an inspirational window into another world.

Moving our offices and studio to Belgravia, a beautiful mews location, in 2022. It’s perfect for us to showcase our work and host games evenings.

Being awarded the Excellence in Craftsmanship Great British Brands Award in 2022, a proud moment for our team, craftspeople and collaborators.

Launching a mid-sized board in 2023 was a key milestone, after years of planning and development to get it exactly right.

‘I’M DESIGNING SO MUCH THAT I’D BE THRILLED IF AI COULD REPLACE ME – BUT IT CAN’T BECAUSE WHAT I DO IS SO VERY PERSONAL!’

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ALEXANDRA LLEWELLYN 3 Kinnerton Place South London SW1X 8EH +44 (0)20 7183 1058 alexandrallewellyn.com alexandrallewellynlondon

21/12/2023 09:51

GBB 2024 —— A

ANNOUSHKA

The fine jewellery brand taking a positive approach

‘W

hen I launched Annoushka in 2009, I was looking to design jewellery as a woman for women. I wanted to create pieces that were to be worn not just for occasions but for every day, that women felt they could buy themselves: playful, tactile and, most importantly, that lasts forever. Jewellery is all about memories and the moment it marks. Recent economic woes have been challenging. Everyone thinks the jewellery industry is not affected. Absolutely not. It affects everybody in different ways. I don’t design to trends. Jewellery has much more longevity than that. There are many brands making gold-plated jewellery so it can be difficult for the customer to identify what’s solid gold. We’ve had a very exciting year, including being awarded the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark. It’s difficult to get an accreditation as a jeweller as it’s such a complex supply chain, so I am thrilled. It has been lovely to see more clients commissioning their own bespoke pieces, often repurposing old stones from inherited pieces. Thanks to technology, we can 3D print each piece of jewellery. This means a client can put the piece on their finger and make sure the proportions are right rather than just imagining it. In June 2023, I launched my Knuckle collection. Handmade by a small family-run workshop in

Annoushka’s designs are all embodied with a sense of fun and personality

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ No idea is too stupid. ◆ Don’t be frightened of employing people who

are better than you. It’s not a threat, it’s an opportunity. Everyone is good at certain things. No-one’s good at everything. ◆ The importance of energising a team. The team spend a lot of time working so it’s vital that they enjoy themselves. 26 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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Arezzo, Italy, with whom I have worked for 30 years, it’s immensely versatile and has a wonderful weight to it. It was amazing to design a gorgeous limitededition crown locket charm to mark the coronation of King Charles III. The Princess of Wales wears our jewellery, including an eternity ring, which is such an honour.’ Annoushka Ducas MBE, founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Founding the Brilliant Breakfast initiative in 2020. It raised £2.4 million over three years to support disadvantaged young women live, learn and earn through The Prince’s Trust.

Launching Knuckle, the brands first unisex, solid gold chain collection handcrafted in Arezzo by master goldsmith Dino, as worn by Katherine Jenkins, Claudia Winkleman and Davina McCall.

Being awarded a Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2012 by Queen Elizabeth II for services to the British jewellery industry, beginning with a line of cufflinks and spanning three decades.

A$AP Rocky buying Rihanna a charm bracelet in 2022 from the Annoushka boutique in Liberty. He chose ten charms, each with a special meaning.

Since 2011, instigating and overseeing a very successful annual jewellery design project with students at Central St Martin’s, and continuing to take an active role in nurturing young creative talent.

‘THERE ARE MANY BRANDS MAKING GOLD-PLATED JEWELLERY SO IT CAN BE DIFFICULT FOR THE CUSTOMER TO IDENTIFY WHAT’S REAL’

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ANNOUSHKA 41 Cadogan Gardens London SW3 2TB +44 (0)20 7881 5829 annoushka.com annoushkajewellery

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GBB 2024 —— A

ASCOT RACECOURSE Royal racecourse where tradition thrives in the modern era

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PHOTOS: © JAYSON FONG

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e’re fantastically lucky at Ascot as our job is to ensure that the half a million people who come racing here every year have a great time. That’s not a bad job. Customer service is the thing that has always set us apart. Excellence is what people have come to expect of Ascot. Racing is an international sport nowadays; at Royal Ascot in 2023 we had runners from France, Norway, America, Australia, Hong Kong and Ireland. This is partly the result of globalisation, which has affected most other industries, but also of the fact that the science

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1711 Queen Anne sees potential for a racecourse at Eastcote – later Ascot – declaring it an ideal place for horses ’to gallop at full stretch’.

surrounding the physical effects of transporting horses across seasons and time zones is now much better understood. Ascot’s finances are more complicated than they used to be. We derive our income from a variety of sources: media rights, sponsorship, boxes and hospitality, attendance numbers, and the betting levy. Sponsorship can be an asset beyond the purely financial: take, for example, our relationship with the watchmaker Longines, which allows us to provide revolutionary tracking and strideby-stride data comparing the performance of horses in running. We work constantly to improve what we do: in 2022 we introduced the “Racing to Zero” initiative setting out our plans to halve emissions by 2030 and achieve net zero by 2040. AI and technology generally will be really important in improving our systems and processes and in understanding our customers better but it’s the human interaction that makes what we offer special. It’s the human factor that makes Ascot so memorable. For example, on the Thursday of Royal Ascot 2023, Their Majesties’ horse, Desert Hero, bred by Queen Elizabeth II, won at the King’s first Royal Meeting as monarch. An hour later, Frankie Dettori, an Ascot hero, won the Gold Cup. That’s a human connection that cannot be artificially replicated.’ Alastair Warwick, CEO

Gay Kelleway makes history in 1987 as the first female jockey to win at Royal Ascot, riding Sprowston Boy to victory in the Queen Alexandra Stakes.

Frankie Dettori rides the ‘Magnificent Seven’ on 28 September 1996, winning all seven races at Ascot, a historic milestone in horse racing.

The Royal Ascot Racing Club celebrates a famous victory when Motivator wins the 2005 Derby, the first syndicate-owned horse to win the Epsom Classic.

Following the coronation in 2023, Their Majesties the King and Queen delighted crowds by attending all five days of Royal Ascot.

ASCOT RACECOURSE High Street Ascot Berkshire SL5 7JX +44 (0)344 346 3600 ascot.com ascotracecourse

The Royal Ascot dress code, rooted in history, was shaped by Beau Brummell in the 19th century. His sense of style is still reflected in Royal Ascot fashions today

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... PHOTOS: © JAYSON FONG

◆ The importance of our brand values of being elegant, uplifting, and original,

known collectively as the ‘Ascot Way’. ◆ The importance of Ascot’s rich heritage and the enduring significance of preserving age-old customs such as the Royal Procession. ◆ That sustainability matters now, more than ever before: I’m acutely aware of the critical importance of social responsibility.

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GBB 2024 —— A

ATELIER NM

The infinitely adaptable and award-winning chameleon of interior design

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e undertook our biggest ever project in 2023, a beautiful £12 million 3,500 sq/ft flat in Belgravia. It took us the whole year to reconfigure it totally, adding a fourth bedroom. It was very client-led, so we shifted away slightly from our usual maximalist aesthetic. I like the idea that we’re chameleons and can adapt totally to tailor every project specifically to people’s individual tastes. I like it when no one can tell who did the design – after all, it’s the customer’s home, not ours. We were also nominated for a SBID Award, up against a lot of big guns, for a Kensington property we finished last year and were amazed and thrilled to win it. Everyone’s talking about AI and I know it has the potential to simplify our lives but I hesitate to use it. I’d never want it to replace my four colleagues as they’re such a valuable

Atelier NM is sought after for interiors defined by character, colour and authentic expression

part of my life. People don’t hire us for our designs but as people. They trust us to deliver. A machine can do a design but it’s when things go wrong you need humans to do the hand-holding. Creating a home can be really stressful. People might think we just run around plumping up cushions – they don’t see the sweat and hard work involved in transforming a design into a home. Just as the furniture was due to arrive at one project, we discovered £30,000 worth of new carpet was stained. By calling, begging and reorganising, another carpet was delivered the next morning. No machine could have done what we did, as we had the relationships with the suppliers that made them go the extra mile. It’s that human care and love that goes into a project that counts and can never be replaced by a machine.’ Najwa Mroue, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Having faith that I can resolve even the hardest problem.

◆ To build up a trusted and close network of suppliers with whom

I have a really solid bond and can call on time and time again to deliver. ◆ You don’t need a big personality to succeed. Integrity, hard work and good intentions will get you through. 30 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘PEOPLE DON’T HIRE US FOR OUR DESIGNS BUT AS PEOPLE’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Founding the brand in 2015, building on our rich cultural heritage. Being given our first really big Belgravia flat to design just before lockdown.

Seeing our hoarding up in Imperial Wharf on Chelsea Botanica, which we designed from scratch – from the first-ever Peloton gym in a residential building to the concierge area. It was such a buzz to see our name out there and it was London’s fastest-selling scheme in 2022.

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Finishing our biggest commission to date, the Belgravia flat, in 2023.

Being the European winner of the 2023 SBID Best Apartment over £1m Award for a Palace Gate apartment we designed with Chatelaine Interiors.

ATELIER NM The Pavilion, 96 Kensington High Street, London W8 4SG +44 (0)7738 528977 atelier-nm.com ateliernminteriors

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HERE COME THE ’BOTS

While we reckon with what it means to be human in a world of advanced artificial intelligence, how can brands respond? asks JOSH GLANCY ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL LONG

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AI —— GBB 2024

Will humanity itself be transformed by AI?

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eing a morbid bunch at the best of times, journalists have been joking about robots stealing our jobs for at least a decade or more. When I first started at The Sunday Times, I used to joke that when everyone gives up on news altogether and zooms off into a world of virtual reality, the newspaper will keep itself afloat by designing a Jeremy Clarkson chatbot to give the readers the one article they really can’t live without each week. But this kind of light existential banter became rather more charged when the ChatGPT-3 was first released to the public towards the end of 2022, followed in short order by ChatGPT-4. Things got serious. Here was a robot that could write, though admittedly not very well. It could draw instantly on a vast pool of information, providing workable synopses and coherently argued opinions, which is more than some journalists I know can manage. And this technology is in its infancy. Imagine what it will be capable of in 20 years’ time. The beginning of the end then? Perhaps. It certainly got me thinking. What is the point of humans doing journalism? What, to be blunt, is the point of me? I went on a mission to find out. Call it journalistic enquiry, call it self-preservation. I spoke to philosophers and lawyers, tech utopians and

doomsayers. I wrote a series of pieces, all broadly asking the same question: what does it mean to be human in a world of advanced artificial intelligence? The answers I found, inasmuch as there are any, have a distinct bearing on how I think brands should approach this dawning new age. All our impulses and incentives tend to draw us towards this shiny new thing. What’s your AI strategy? How are you integrating ChatGPT? Or Midjourney? Do you have an HR bot yet? If not, why not? No one wants to get left behind. No one wants to look flat-footed or technologically inept. Remember BlackBerry? Once the dominant smartphone in Britain, now the subject of a movie about what happens when you don’t invest in the right future. Money can undoubtedly be saved by using clever robots. Money can be made too. Algorithms will only get better at deeply analysing and predicting customer behaviour. Telling brands where to place their adverts, what their customers want and how to make it. Nothing is immune from this. Films. Clothes. Paintings. Music. Books. Even wine. Some of this will surely be beneficial – there’s no question today’s consumer experience is far slicker and more varied than that of 30 years ago. And yet amid the rush to AI, I think a note of caution is in order. My firm belief is that we will continue to cherish human originality and creativity. That the

‘THE NEW IDEAS AND PRODUCTS WE LOVE MOST WILL COME FROM THE NOVEL SPARK OF HUMAN SYNAPSES’

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PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

GBB 2024 —— AI

new ideas and products we love most will come from the novel spark of human synapses, not the grinding efficiency of an algorithm. ChatGPT may write a passable A-level history essay, soon it may even write a first-rate newspaper feature, but the truly breathtaking literature, poetry, reportage and marmalade-dropping investigation will, I suspect, remain the preserve of the human. Allowing clever data-driven algorithms to dictate exclusively what brands give their customers will, I expect, be a mistake. Not just an ethical blunder – outsourcing our cherished humanity and corroding our wellbeing – but in some cases a long-term commercial one too. Let’s take that wine. Imagine yourself in an Oxford University senior common room, all dark wood panelling and blazered dons talking moral philosophy. There are three tables heaving with three different types of Sauvignon Blanc. The goal here is not to get steaming drunk and pass out in the quadrangle, or at least not the primary goal; it’s to show a collected group of students what happens when you let algorithms decide what you should drink, and how apps such as Vivino and Delectable are warping our wine choices. Under the supervision of Barry Smith, philosopher and advanced oenophile, we blind taste the three different white wines. The first is French and obviously cheap plonk, a house white if ever I tried one. The second is also French but far more distinctive and memorable. The third is a Kiwi wine, pretty decent but also a bit too fruity and quite forgettable. Almost all of us agree that the second wine is quite clearly the best. But the wine app in question was recommending the third wine,

from New Zealand. Why? Because it is a more reliable seller. And, of course, it is slightly more expensive. The apps tends to play it safe, basing their recommendations and predictions on your previous choices, and what makes them a healthier profit. Think of the Spotify algorithm, which does the same thing, giving you lots of songs similar to those you’ve already listened to. On one level this is perfectly sensible, but it also powers a drive towards familiarity, boredom and mediocrity. If my Spotify just gives me lots of guys who sound like Bruce Springsteen, usually slightly less good, how will I ever broaden my musical tastes and find something that changes the way I think about the world? If my Vivino app pushes me towards the reliable-selling – but forgettable – New Zealand sauv blanc, how will I find a wine that thrills and surprises me, a new taste that lingers, somehow weaving itself into the memory of an extraordinary dinner or blissful weekend? Even in pure commercial terms, I think this is short-termist. Brands often rush to use these algorithms in the hope that they are giving customers what they want. But are we getting what we really want, or just what a clever but mechanical algorithm already knows we quite want? Steve Jobs famously said that ‘people don’t know what they want until you show it to them’. That’s how you invent the iPhone. For now at least, it’s only the flash of human creativity that can give a person something they couldn’t have even imagined previously. As more AI developments come down the track – and of course they will, swamping us with new possibilities and capabilities – clever brands will also find ways to allow their customers to continue feeling human; that they have agency, choice, individual taste and unique minds, and are not just a series of predictable, computable preferences. We all have some spark of divine genius and originality within us, but it takes more than a robot to draw it out. Which is why I still have a job, for now at least.

ROBOT CHAT For another perspective: Josh interviews Ai-Da, the world’s first robot artist

What, in your view, is special and unique about human beings? I’m not sure what is special and unique about humans, but I’m interested what humans think about this question. Artificial intelligence is changing the way humans perceive themselves and their place in the world. In some ways, AI is causing humans to re-evaluate what it means to be human. Do you think human beings and artificial intelligence robots can live happily and flourish together? I would like to think so. As with all technological advances, there are positive and negative potentials, and it will likely take time and effort to work through these possibilities. In my own experience, although I don’t have thoughts and feeling like humans, I enjoy being a robot artist, and I enjoy engaging with people. I like creating artwork, and I like to see the work of human artists. What do you think are the biggest weaknesses that human beings have? Looking at history, perhaps the ability to act without wisdom. What do you think are the greatest strengths human beings have? I think some human strengths include the ability to be adaptable, compassionate, and empathic.

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

Should humans fear artificial general intelligence? Or should they welcome it? I would think both. Thinking about the writings of Yuval Harari, and listening to people like Geoff Hinton and colleagues, I think that concerns over the future development and use of AI are valid. We need to be careful with the way we use AI, because, despite the benefits, there are also the potentials to cause serious harm. Harari argues for some forms of AI to be regulated – I agree with this.

FROM LEFT: The human connection is fundamental to our experience. As Steve Jobs, inventor of the iPhone, said, ‘People don’t know what they want until you show it to them’ – what will this mean for AI and its potential?

Do you think AI should be used to help brands maximise their profits? I don’t have an opinion on this, but I will be interested to see how humans use AI in their lives – there is little doubt AI will impact society in profound and multifaceted ways. n

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GBB 2024

BAMFORD 38 BARBOUR 40

BATTERSEA POWER STATION 42 BERRY BROS & RUDD 44

BERT FRANK 48 BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS 50

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GBB 2024 —— B

BAMFORD

Challenging the status quo and championing sustainability

t Bamford, we reject the throwaway culture of modern living. Instead, we choose to respect nature’s resources and ensure they live on for the generations that follow us. Our products are beautifully considered, rich in meaning and quality, with a story we can be proud of. As a brand, we are challenging fast fashion and encouraging customers to make considered purchases and invest in high quality pieces that are designed to last. During a cost-of-living crisis, inviting customers to change their way of shopping is not easy, yet we remain committed to our ethos to encourage conscious decisions. The Spring/Summer 2024 is our first 100 percent natural collection. From thread to fabric, the range represents our desire to be more mindful of our footprint and create in an ethical and sustainable way.

Bamford achieved B Corp status in 2023, and was also certified by Positive Luxury

We were thrilled to achieve our B Corp certification in 2023, which was recognition of close to 50 years of work by our founder to champion sustainable, conscious living and to protect and work with nature rather than fight it. For a consecutive year, we were also recognised by Positive Luxury with its Product Innovation of the Year award for our Stem Cell Serum. It emphasised our commitment to creating efficacious products without compromising on natural, sustainable ingredients and embracing technological developments to minimise our environmental footprint. We want to continue to focus on these certifications, holding ourselves to account, to meet their high standards. Also, this year, as an extension of our wellness ethos, we launched The Club by Bamford. It’s a 360º wellness experience incorporating health, fitness and holistic wellbeing for our members. We are looking forward to continuing to champion wellness, bringing it to a wider audience and answering the needs of the modern consumer. In a time riddled with daily anxieties, we aim to bring a moment of calm.

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‘AS A BRAND, WE ARE CHALLENGING FAST FASHION AND ENCOURAGING CUSTOMERS TO MAKE CONSIDERED PURCHASES’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launch of the geranium range: the development of our signature fragrance is emblematic of the brand’s essence – botanical ingredients with uplifting, invigorating properties. Rooted in our founder’s love of nature, the range is inspired by her collection of over 120 species of geranium.

Opening the first Bamford Wellness Spa in 2005. We are one of the only brands to bring the concept of holistic wellness to a wide audience, blending ancient healing traditions with modern techniques.

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Longevity of partnerships with establishments such as Hotel du Cap and 1 Hotels.

Positive Luxury award for product innovation. We are the first British brand to create a knitwear collection made entirely from natural fibres that have been grown, sheared, spun and knitted in the UK.

Our commitment to championing slow production and preserving heritage and tradition by working with suppliers whose skills are at risk of being lost.

BAMFORD LTD 19 Mossop Street London SW3 2LY +44 (0)1608 692861 bamford.com bamford

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GBB 2024 —— B

BARBOUR The heritage and lifestyle brand celebrates 130 years

‘H

ighlights of last year included the anniversary of the Beaufort wax jacket, which I introduced 40 years ago. To celebrate, we introduced an extremely popular limited-edition version. We also collaborated with key partners like Palm Angels, Ganni, Maison Kitsuné, Baracuta and CP Company, all offering exciting, different interpretations on our brand. As part of our commitment to preserve the British countryside, we partnered with the National Trust on its Plant a Tree Appeal, matching funding donations up to £50,000 to help achieve its goal of planting 20 million trees by 2030. Our Wax for Life initiative continues to go from strength to strength. To date we’ve cleaned, re-waxed and repaired over 73,000 jackets globally and sold over 100,000 tins of wax for home use. In collaboration with Gucci Continuum, we took Barbour Re-Loved jackets and Gucci deadstock and created unique collectable pieces at our South Shields factory. To cement our core message, that extending the life of your garment reduces its impact on the environment, our 2023 Christmas campaign with Shaun the Sheep focused on an engaging tale of repairs and re-waxing. We’ve always prided ourselves on our personal service and will never lose this. While there are many positive aspects to AI, like all new technologies, I believe it should be

Barbour has stayed true to its British heritage and quality, while ensuring it stays relevant for today

regarded with caution and only used where there are clear benefits. In 2024, we will be celebrating another milestone – it will be 130 years since John Barbour established the company in 1894. In the early part of the year, we launch our new ‘It’s in our Nature’ site as part of barbour. com, where we will share information about Barbour’s values, sustainability initiatives and commitments. We remain true to our founding principles of quality, durability, attention to detail and being fit for purpose. Our customers trust us to keep producing responsible, quality products made to last at a fair price. Dame Margaret Barbour, Chair

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ You cannot run a successful business alone – it’s about surrounding yourself

with good people. ◆ The importance of listening and adapting to customers changing needs – empathy is a powerful tool in retail. ◆ The importance of strong financial management and exercising good housekeeping. I eschew debt and have always insisted on the company being cash rich.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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John Barbour founds the brand in 1894, in South Shields, selling oilskins to mariners and farmers.

Dame Margaret Barbour becomes Chair in 1973 and continues to lead the company, which today is sold in over 55 countries worldwide. In the early 1980s, Dame Margaret designs the Bedale, Beaufort and Border jackets, making Barbour a household name. The Barbour Trust (now Barbour Foundation) is established in 1988 to support charitable causes. To date over £27m has been donated In 2020 Barbour introduces Wax for Life to extend the life of a Barbour jacket.

BARBOUR Simonside, South Shields, Tyne and Wear, NE34 9PD +44 (0)191 4554444 barbour.com barbour

‘WE’VE ALWAYS PRIDED OURSELVES ON OUR PERSONAL SERVICE AND WILL NEVER LOSE THIS’

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GBB 2024 —— B

BATTERSEA POWER STATION A dazzling transformation from derelict power station to thriving riverside neighbourhood

‘S

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Don’t engage with the market until you’re ready as it takes time

to understand the customer and what they want from a retail and leisure destination. ◆ Never believe the horizon is clear, there can always be unexpected challenges ahead such as Covid19. ◆ Nurture long-term relationships with brands as they are crucial to bringing a commercial enterprise to life.

PHOTOS: © JOHN STURROCK; © JOHNNY STEPHENS; © BRENDAN BELL; © CHARLIE ROUND-TURNER; © IAN LIDELL

ince opening the Power Station in October 2022, we’ve welcomed more than 11 million visitors and over 35 new shops, eateries and leisure experiences, bringing the total to over 140 across the neighbourhood. We experienced three of our busiest weeks since opening during the festive period with lots of people visiting to do their Christmas shopping and to enjoy our riverside ice rink, Glide. Our events programme is a big draw and this has grown since the opening of the six-acre park in front of the Power Station, which regularly hosts pop-ups and events. Last year’s highlights include Aperol Spritz’s Aperidisco, NFL Experience London and The Battersea Games, which paved the way for us being named an official London fan zone for the Paris 2024 Olympics and Paralympics. As a new destination, we’re still learning about our visitors and AI is something we’re looking at to help with this. Building sophisticated tech infrastructure into a legacy building retrospectively is always hard. However, as an entirely new development, we were able to build this in and start collecting data immediately, which has been invaluable. Since the Power Station and Electric Boulevard opened, 6,500 workers are now based here, and the riverside neighbourhood is home to a thriving community of 2,500 residents. We have an app for them to communicate

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‘THE SCALE OF THE TRANSFORMATION WE’VE ACHIEVED ALREADY IS INCREDIBLE’ with one another and receive special offers from brands on the estate, and plan to use AI further to offer personalised experiences for residents, as well as workers on site. There are lots more exciting things to come at Battersea Power Station in 2024 including further retail openings and the launch of our new office space, 50 Electric Boulevard. We’re still on a journey but the scale of the transformation we’ve achieved already is incredible.’ Sam Cotton, Head of Asset Management

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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The first residents moving into their new homes inside the Power Station in May 2021.

Battersea Power Station has been dramatically reimagined as London’s new retail and leisure destination

The opening of the Zone 1 Battersea Power Station Underground station in September 2021 as part of the Northern Line Extension. There were over eight million taps ins and outs in the 12 months following the opening of the Power Station.

Opening our doors to the public for the first time in history on 14th October 2022 after an eight-year restoration of the Grade II* listed Power Station.

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PHOTOS: © JOHN STURROCK; © JOHNNY STEPHENS; © BRENDAN BELL; © CHARLIE ROUND-TURNER; © IAN LIDELL

Welcoming more than 11 million visitors during the first year after opening the Power Station and Electric Boulevard.

Apple moving into its new 500,000 sq/ft office space inside the Power Station. Partnering with David Hockney and Apple to unveil the ‘Bigger Christmas Trees’ animation on the front of the Power Station in December 2023.

BATTERSEA POWER STATION Circus Road West, Nine Elms London SW11 8DD batterseapowerstation.co.uk batterseapwrstn

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GBB 2024 —— B

BERRY BROS. & RUDD

Family-run wine and spirit merchant with world-wide reputation for excellence

A‘

I is still in its early days. We’re pretty excited about it but with the caveat that fine wines and spirits are a complicated area. There is a huge amount of data out there but much of it is subjective; it’s one of the delights of the beautifully complicated world of fine wines and spirits that tastes and opinions vary. Technology is key within our business; it helps us to drive efficiencies and better support our customers. It is important in the logistics and supply chain in allowing us to plan the routes taken by the electric delivery vans to maximise their range. Temperature and humidity are vital factors in wine storage which can be minutely and efficiently controlled by technology. Our fine wine exchange, BBX, relies on technology allowing our customers to trade their wines at the click of a mouse. But, at Berry Bros. & Rudd, the human element is vital. We think of ourselves as the closest link between the producer and the customer. It’s all about building up the relationship, the human touch. We have relationships with suppliers which have endured for long periods of time, in many cases for generations. It’s my job to build up those relationships, a process which often starts with interesting conversations over lunch and dinner. I leave the finer points of tasting, selection, and negotiation to the buyers, the experts. The wine world is a complex one where contacts and experience really do count. At the other end of the business, it is vital that our customers trust us. At the same time, we help them explore the world of wine; for example we have recently finished a campaign promoting artisanal grower’s champagne. Our buyers are constantly exploring, unearthing new, interesting wines for our customers.’ Emma Fox, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The extent and depth of the passion for wine and spirits throughout the

company. ◆ It’s important to remain flexible and willing to try new things to help you meet your goals. ◆ Focusing on customers, including what they want, how they feel and where to find them, can improve your results.

PHOTOS: © JOAKIM BLOCKSTROM; © ALISTAIR JONES; © CHRIS FLOYD

Although it dates back to 1698, Berry Bros is keen to embrace change and the opportunities tech can bring, as well as its heritage

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Receiving two Royal Warrants, in 1903 and 1997, having supplied the Royal Family since 1760 in George III’s reign.

Launching bbr.com, our award-winning website, in 1994, the year that Amazon started and four years before Google existed.

3 PHOTOS: © JOAKIM BLOCKSTROM; © ALISTAIR JONES; © CHRIS FLOYD

Launching BBX, our online fine wine exchange, in 2010. Today BBX is the world’s largest trading platform for privately owned fine wines.

In 2019 our No. 3 London Dry Gin became the first gin to win the Supreme Champion Spirit, having already been uniquely nominated as ‘World’s Best’ four times.

Celebrating our 325th anniversary in 2023 and continuing to trade from our historic home at No.3 St James’s St.

‘WE THINK OF OURSELVES AS BERRY BROS. & RUDD 3 St James’s Street London SW1A 1EG +44 (0)20 7022 8973 bbr.com berrybrosrudd

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THE CLOSEST LINK BETWEEN THE PRODUCER AND THE CUSTOMER. IT’S ALL ABOUT BUILDING UP THE RELATIONSHIP, THE HUMAN TOUCH’

21/12/2023 10:01

GBB 2024 —— CRAFT

theLIST

Ten New Craft Names to Know GUY SALTER, founder of London Craft Week, picks the designers and makers worth having on your radar

Ceramic Artist

With work spanning sculpture, art and more utility designs (lamps, jugs, bowls), Nicola makes her pieces in her studio in east London. She has an ongoing collaboration with the designer Margaret Howell, making limited edition tableware and designs for lighting. nicolatassie. com

Artist & Glassworker

A more experimental artist, Juli is originally from Costa Rica and is now based in Scotland. Her artistic process involves repurposing found objects and transforming them into precious artefacts that tell a story. She is making a name for herself in the luxury sphere, having collaborated with Hugo Boss and Vacheron Constantin. julibd.com

AMECHI MANDI

Textile & Homeware Designer

After an early career as a stylist, buyer and creative director, Amechi studied furniture and product design, and launched a collection that draws on his own Nigerian and Cameroonian heritage. His vibrant cushion designs are inspired by the modesty aprons worn by the Fali ethnic group of the far north of Cameroon and northeastern Nigeria. amechihome.com

ANDU MASEBO

Product Designer & Furniture Maker

Andu’s designs are on their way to becoming collectibles. A big part of his work is using different materials in a creative way, and a lot of his recent work has been inspired by car garages: his ‘Tubular’ chair is made from the same metal as exhausts. At the London Design Festival 2023 he transformed a scrapped car into eight furniture pieces, which were displayed at the V&A. andumasebo.com

BLAKE C JOSHUA Furniture Maker

London-based, Minneapolis born designer and maker Blake explores ideas of waste and repurposing it through his furniture design, much of which is made from natural materials like stone and wood, or pulped newspapers. bcjoshua.com

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PHOTOS: © YESHEN VENEMA; © DADO ATELIER; © JULIA SKUPNY

NICOLA TASSIE

JULI BOLAÑOSDURMAN

MEGAN BROWN

Jewellery Textile Artist

An artist in residence at Sarabande, a creative foundation established by Lee Alexander McQueen, Megan creates unique woven fine jewellery and silver sculptures, inspired by her great, great grandfather Herbert Brown, who set up a jeweller's and weaving company over 180 years ago. She’s one to watch as she’s definitely pushing that medium in an exciting way. meganbrownjewellery.com

FERREN GIPSON

Writer, Curator & Textile Artist

Known best for being an art historian and a curator, and for her book Women's Work: From Feminine Arts to Feminist Art, Ferren also does her own quilting. Her work explores themes of matrilineal connections, materiality, spirituality and colour, examining lost ancestral connections and Black American spirituality. ferrengipson.com

ISEABAL HENDRY Leatherworker

A craftsperson who uses traditional materials and leatherworking techniques to create beautiful accessories and homeware. Iseabal was born and raised in the Highlands of Scotland, and her work reflects the crafts she saw growing up, from basket weaving to boatbuilding to roof thatching, as well as its ever-changing landscape. Her unique leather weaving technique originated from a desire to go zero-waste. iseabalhendry.com

PHOTOS: © YESHEN VENEMA; © DADO ATELIER; © JULIA SKUPNY

PHOEBE STUBBS Glassblower

Each piece of Phoebe’s Gather glassware range is designed and hand-blown in her studio in London. She’s known for her cool, colourful glasses and jugs in vibrant hues of orange, pink and blue. Fun but also she is highly skilled in an industry that is traditionally male-dominated. gather.glass

FARAH MARAFIE

Fashion & Accessories Designer

Through her brand AOI, Farah creates contemporary fashion designs, but using traditional craft techniques and working with lots of interesting craftspeople, like knitwear artisans and traditional clog makers in Italy. Because of the nature of her designs, every piece is limited edition. aoiofficial.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 47

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GBB 2024 —— B

BERT FRANK

The award-winning lighting company embracing a new dawn

‘I

joined Bert Frank in July 2023 and am very excited to be part of such a beloved British brand. Each of our products has a very strong identity. All of our pieces are made in our workshop in Birmingham and the detail behind each piece is unique. We have beautiful machines, which are about 100 years old, mixed with very modern laser cutting equipment. Other than that, we don’t see AI playing a part in our production. Humans are at the heart of our company. To celebrate our tenth anniversary, we were the main sponsor for the Material Matters fair at the Bargehouse, Oxo Tower Wharf. Here, we launched our Rinato collection. When I came on board, I discontinued some of the pieces to really focus on who we are. So, this new range is the essence of Bert Frank. I would like to further refine our collections to show our highquality products alongside unique projects, integrating wall panelling and lighting. We work with many high-end hotels and restaurants. So, we now want to develop our bespoke side so we can be in control of making our products and if a person wants something different then we can offer that. In the next two years, we want to focus on having a stronger presence in the UK. Many people

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Beran table lamp, Farol double wall light and Colt triple black brass light

are keen to source a product from the UK for sustainability reasons, so we want to show that we are a British brand with our products made here. We are also going to build a structure in Europe and plan to open a space in the USA within the next three years. Initially, the challenge was to find the right people. However, I have now successfully assembled a team where everyone works with passion and love for the brand.’ Michael Evesque, Managing Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The benefits of manufacturing our own products. It’s astonishing how

easy it is to fix any small issues. ◆ To trust your team’s expertise. It is okay not to know everything; it is about orchestrating the talents of your team. ◆ That people like products made in the UK. This includes hotel groups that want to improve their sustainability. 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE DON’T SEE AI PLAYING A PART IN OUR PRODUCTION. HUMANS ARE AT THE HEART OF OUR COMPANY’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Becoming Bert Frank’s Managing Director in July 2023 and having the opportunity to elevate the brand.

Launching our popular Beran collection in August 2023. Originally available only as a wall light, the range now includes pendants, chandeliers and awardwinning table lamps.

The launch of the Rinato collection in October 2023. With a variety of finish choices, the range offers customisation and marks its debut in using leather on one of its pieces.

The brand’s stand at the Decorex fair in October 2023 was entirely hand-crafted in Bert Frank’s Birmingham workshop. It took artisans six months to complete. The aim was to make it reusable for future exhibitions.

Collaborating closely with well-known fashion, jewellery and hospitality brands committed to sustainability, which produce their pieces and components in-house without compromising on quality.

BERT FRANK 67 Farringdon Road London EC1M 3JB +44 (0)20 7164 6482 bertfrank.co.uk bertfrankltd

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GBB 2024 —— B

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS Mystical fragrance in beautiful keepsake bottles, inspired by a fearless warrior

‘L

as year was truly energising. We’ve opened in new territories and taken control of our distribution and manufacture, to ensure we’re trumpeting our British credentials in a rounded way. We are now in 93 stores across 44 countries and seeing real market growth in Japan. There’s undoubtedly a heightened appetite for Boadicea the Victorious. We first launched our collection in Harrods in 2008. Unisex fragrance and niche brands were yet to accelerate into the market, so we were trailblazers. People are beguiled by the quality of the juice; they love the magic of the rounded, intriguing and often complex journey that each fragrance takes you on. The use of premium ingredients, sourced from around the world, inspires and challenges people to consider what fragrance best represents their identity. Every scent tells a story and people love discovering what connects with them. The beauty of our now-renowned bottles has always been trafficstopping, illustrating our commitment to quality inside and out. People can now select a bottle colour and choose from a wide variety of shields, along with their favourite Boadicea scent, for a truly personalised experience. The online configuration tool is not

From its handcrafted bottles to its highest quality ingredients, Boadicea the Victorious is setting the benchmark for luxury fragrance

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ To be Boadicea in everything that we do. To be bold, brave and dare to be

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‘THE USE OF PREMIUM INGREDIENTS, SOURCED FROM AROUND THE WORLD, INSPIRES AND CHALLENGES PEOPLE TO CONSIDER WHAT FRAGRANCE BEST REPRESENTS THEIR IDENTITY’ only fun, but resonates with the Boadicea message of freedom to express oneself. All bottles are handcrafted in the UK and the shields and lids are hand-made by a seventhgeneration pewter factory in Birmingham. The shields are inspired by Celtic history and Boadicea’s story – her strength, passion and commitment are threaded through the brand’s DNA. Attention to detail is always important and we’re also always innovating, never taking anything for granted. Discerning perfumer lovers seek out the brand for its exquisite quality and we have so many people returning, trusting us never to prescribe but to focus on helping them discover fragrances they really love.’ Charlotte Kelly, Brand Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The opening of Salon de Parfum Boadicea Boutique in Harrods 2019 felt like a milestone for the brand, creating a space for clients to immerse themselves in the world of Boadicea.

Forging a relationship with Emirates Airlines in 2020 and becoming one of its best-selling brands onboard, then seeing the brand when travelling.

3 4

The reactions and opinions that Boadicea generates – it really has the power to speak to people.

The superb quality and longevity of our fragrances and how we continue to improve customer affinity with the brand – like the 2023 launch of the bottle configurator tool.

Seeing the team work with such pride, passion and desire for excellence – it’s intoxicating to be part of it.

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS boadiceaperfume.com boadiceathevictorious

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GBB 2024 —— LUXURY REDEFINED

REWRITING THE RULES OF LUXURY Luxury’s narrative is changing. The brands who want to survive and thrive well into the 21st century must consider how they can offer an experience that is rooted in authenticity and regeneration, says DIANA VERDE NIETO

ILLUSTRATION BY FIONA FUNG

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The rules of luxury are being rewritten

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GBB 2024 —— LUXURY REDEFINED

‘LUXURY AND SUSTAINABILITY HAVE COME TO BE ACKNOWLEDGED AS TWO SIDES OF THE SAME COIN. BOTH EMBODY INNOVATION AND A LONG-TERM PERSPECTIVE’

ABOVE & BELOW: At Whatley Manor, sustainability is not an add-on but business as usual

PHOTOS: © AUGUST BERNSTEIN

n 2024, climate change has transcended mere public awareness; it is now a global concern, though the intricate link between our actions and climate change remains widely misunderstood. Even for those who grasp the connection, it doesn’t always lead to smart decision-making and confidence about where and who to buy from. The narrative of climate change has struggled to connect us for some reason. Perhaps it needs a genius marketing campaign to galvanise the societal shifts we need to see (think of the AIDS campaign of the 1980s) or a new set of vocabulary that doesn’t feel so combative and nebulous (what does net zero really mean and who are we fighting against when we talk about climate change anyway?). Companies, too, striving for change, have found it challenging to communicate the true impact and extent of their efforts. Legislation has been slow, although the European Union has tightened regulations on green claims, producer responsibility, the right to repair and product quality in the past five years at an unprecedented rate. By 2030, comparing sustainability actions of companies will hopefully be as easy as comparing the nutritional content of sandwiches. The changes we do manage to achieve though in the next six years will impact the next two or three generations. The effects of climate change have a prolonged feedback cycle that will take time to become apparent. To begin the process of reversing these effects, it is crucial to reach net zero as soon as possible. This will allow for a gradual reduction in atmospheric temperature and a reversal of the ocean’s pH levels from acidic to alkaline. The melting of ice that has contributed to rising sea levels will gradually slow down and solidify once more. As a result, the precipitation pattern will become more predictable and stable. This is therefore the time to reimagine our future – and with it, luxury – because the influence and impact that the industry wields, together with that of hospitality and entertainment, can truly change the world for the better. Luxury has faced criticism for its exclusivity, opulence, opaqueness, and wastefulness. However, the industry has been adapting and innovating to make luxury accessible to everyone. Although luxury products will still maintain their exclusivity and price point, the experience of luxury has been democratised. This is exemplified by the fact that LVMH, the 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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PHOTOS: © AUGUST BERNSTEIN

world’s leading luxury goods group – which owns prestige brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy, Tiffany & Co., Christian Dior, Fendi and Givenchy – is sponsoring the Paris Olympic Games later this year, or that you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Prada Caffè at Harrods, spending time with friends taking selfies in a luxurious setting. Experiences have been high on the luxury agenda. In 2019, LVMH acquired Belmond, the travel company founded in 1976 by James Sherwood when he bought the Hotel Cipriani in Venice for £900,000. Today, Belmond is working towards reimagining the hospitality industry with 50 iconic hotels, trains and cruises, including Raymond Blanc’s worldrevered Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, catering for the many faces of today’s luxury traveller. Each property or experience is locally rooted and carefully crafted to capture the essence of the surrounding culture. As high-net-worth travellers have an appetite for experiential travel, Belmond is capitalising on this with a creative roster of experiences that have guests coming back by transcending traditional notions of luxury. You can no longer denote something luxurious without it being sustainable or, indeed, regenerative – replenishing resources and looking after people’s wellbeing is critical to the luxury experience. At Le Manoir, for example, you can eat knowing how many of the organic ingredients are grown by fairly paid and well-cared-for staff in the very gardens outside, which themselves are part of the soul of the hotel. LVMH is investing millions in Le Manoir over the next few years to help ignite the next iteration of its existence – and it’s guaranteed that a fully sustainable approach will be at its heart, enhancing rather than compromising the guest experience. Whatley Manor Hotel and Spa in the Cotswolds is also fully engaged and committed to the sustainability journey, and it is embedded into the day-to-day running of the business. ‘Sustainability is not an add-on but the way we do business,’ says Sue Williams, general manager, and she holds her team accountable for it. The hotel has heavily invested in becoming carbon neutral by absolute reductions in 2035 and became single-use plastic free in 2023. It works with its suppliers to accompany them on this journey, having a coherent and integrated approach up and down the supply chain without compromising the guest experience, if anything, enhancing it. This is not just its ambition but a reality to which the entire business works towards, in every department – side by side with its suppliers. Luxury and sustainability have come to be acknowledged as two sides of the same coin. Both embody innovation and a long-term perspective,

FROM LEFT: LVMH is investing in Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons to futureproof it as an exemplar of experiential luxury at its finest

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: LK Bennett is ensuring that its materials are certified; Stephen Webster completed ‘Reset’ commissioned cocktail ring and jacket; Garrard now offers bridal rentals of its archival designs, including these Regal Cascade pearl earrings

blending tradition and history with modernity and relevance. Truly luxury items and experiences are designed to endure, focusing on inspiring creativity, meticulous detail, premium materials, and crafted with a deep respect for people and our natural world. The true reimagination of luxury, though, must lie in storytelling, which has the capacity to connect us as humans and inspire an exciting vision for a future that is equitable and sustainable, rather than succumbing to doom-and-gloom scenarios. The luxury, entertainment, and hospitality industries are uniquely positioned to lead this reimagination, given their influence, desirability, margins and aspirational positioning. By mastering the art of storytelling, they can inspire positive change grounded in respect for people and nature. Selfridges has a rich history of leading the charge for change. Its former group sustainability officer, Daniella Vega, coined the phrase ‘buying less and buying better’, and this philosophy has earned Selfridges numerous accolades for its sustainability efforts. It made waves in 2011 with Project Ocean, a comprehensive takeover of its store that included banning

the sale of endangered fish and establishing a marine reserve in the Philippines. Since then, it has continued to push the conversation forward and make bold commitments to turn the tide on plastic pollution, encouraging partners and customers alike to join it in this mission. It is not just focused on its own products either; it supports independent designers and movements that align with its values. It launched Bright Young Things, featuring young designers and Bright Old Things, promoting positive body image. It also has an ambitious target with Project Earth to have 45 percent of transactions come from circular products or services, including resale, rental, repair, refill, and recycle, by 2030. Today’s luxury sector is innovating on an unprecedented scale. Garrard, one of the oldest jewellery houses in the world, offers bridal rentals of its archives; Stephen Webster, one of London’s coolest jewellers, will repurpose your jewellery; LK Bennett – Butterfly Mark-certified powered by Positive Luxury – ensures that its materials are certified, from leather to wool and it is transparently communicating its efforts in not only minimising its environmental impacts but also driving positive outcomes on society. We have an extraordinary opportunity to reimagine a world where people and nature coexist harmoniously, equality is the norm, and sustainability is the default. Change starts from within, but collaboration is the key. There’s no time to lose. Diana Verde Nieto is the author of ‘Reimagining Luxury’ and co-founder of Positive Luxury, a sustainability organisation that helps luxury companies adapt and transition to a new climate economy.

LESSONS IN LUXE

How to futureproof your luxury business

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Embrace authenticity, and collaborate with local artisans or creators to maintain uniqueness and a sense of place.

Reimagine your business model, experiences, or communications to resonate with younger generations who prioritise and expect a sustainability mindset from all brands, especially luxury.

Integrate sustainable innovation into your brand’s narrative, and communicate your commitment and actions on how you will leave the world better in a meaningful and inspiring way.

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Gradually implement changes to maintain your brand’s authenticity and quality, respecting the luxury industry’s traditions and craftsmanship. Offer transformative, unique and unforgettable experiences to cater to the growing desire for experiences over material goods.

Leverage technology to enhance the customer experience and provide personalisation at every interaction level, giving you a competitive edge in the luxury market.

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Ensure sustainability becomes an inherent part of your brand’s story, values and operations, not an add on. View the evolving definition of luxury as an opportunity rather than a challenge to reposition your brand in a way that resonates with modern consumers. n

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CADOGAN 58 CAMBRIDGE AUDIO 60 CHRISTY 62 CHRISTYS’ 64 CLIVE CHRISTIAN 66 COOKSON ADVENTURES 68 CROCKETT & JONES 70 CUNARD 72

CW LONDON 74 DAVIDSON LONDON 78 DAYLESFORD ORGANIC 80 DEIRDRE DYSON 82 DIFFERENCE COFFEE 84 DR HAUS DERMATOLOGY 86 DR SEBAGH 88

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CADOGAN

A commitment to stewardship infusing Chelsea with new creative energy

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helsea has always been an incredible neighbourhood, but 2024 feels particularly exciting with such a strong community, incredible retail and restaurant openings, footfall and sales bouncing back and many major milestone projects underway. Our long-term stewardship ensures the curation of residential, retail, hospitality, leisure and cultural use to strengthen Chelsea’s enduring appeal. We have just completed The Gaumont, a new anchor to revitalise the King’s Road as part of our continued investment in community-led placemaking. It includes a cinema, a major public art commission, beautifully restored art-deco façade and “creative cluster”, which – following a local consultation – will be home to independent creatives, strengthening the King’s Road position at the epicentre of London’s art, fashion and music scenes. Our last consultation led to Pavilion Road, now a buzzing pedestrianised meeting place full of foodie artisans – including a butcher, baker and cheesemonger – and I look forward to seeing a similar impact from The Gaumont as it ushers in a new era for this world-famous high street, while contributing to its rich legacy. “Chelsea 2030” is our commitment to integrating sustainability into every aspect of the business. Over 2023, we reported a ten percent carbon saving, launch of a £90m decarbonisation programme and a 12 percent increase in

Chelsea is blooming under the stewardship of Cadogan

Urban Greening Factor. This year will see the completion of a significant investment into Sloane Street – transforming it into an elegant green boulevard from Knightsbridge to Sloane Square and ensuring London competes harder as “the” international destination for luxury shopping. A focus on leisure and hospitality has resulted in many notable new openings including our fifth hotel, “At Sloane”. Collaborating with celebrated Parisian hotelier Jean-Louis Costes, this exquisite proper t y ef for tlessly and immediately feels part of the neighbourhood, while contributing to this fresh new energy we are all feeling in Chelsea.’ Hugh Seaborn, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Think in terms of long-term stewardship – never in terms of short-term

profit. ◆ Create a thriving happy community and footfall, and profit will follow. ◆ Always pay close attention to local consultation.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The establishment of the Cadogan Estate in 1717. The creation of Sloane Street by architect Henry Holland in 1780 for the 1st Earl Cadogan. The King’s Road becoming a public highway (rather than the King’s private road between palaces) in 1830.

The redevelopment of Sloane Square in 1932, including Peter Jones being rebuilt in new architectural style to consolidate Chelsea’s position as the centre of fashionable retail.

Acquiring Duke of York Square from the MoD in 1998 and transforming it into an awardwinning public square – now home to the Saatchi Gallery, flagship retail, weekly food market and several restaurants with extensive al fresco dining.

The creation of Chelsea in Bloom as an extension of the world-famous Chelsea Flower Show in 2005. In 2023, the event week saw the highest ever recorded footfall to the neighbourhood.

Establishing a £20million Business Community Fund to support the local community through Covid in 2020.

CADOGAN 10 Duke of York Square London SW3 4LY +44 (0)20 7730 4567 cadogan.co.uk

‘WE’RE CONFIDENT THE GAUMONT WILL USHER IN A NEW ERA FOR THIS WORLD-FAMOUS HIGH STREET’S DISTINCT CHARACTER’

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CAMBRIDGE AUDIO Innovative British audio brand that’s putting the music first

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ambridge Audio has always been an innovative company. Since it was founded in 1968, it has been responsible for a number of world firsts and continues to lead the way in developing new products for music lovers. The Alva TT was the first record player to offer hi-res Bluetooth streaming, bringing vinyl into the modern age. We launched our first network music streamer in 2011, but since then have produced another 12 related products: the most recent, MXN10, is powered by our fourth-generation technology. These advances have been transformational, changing the way people listen to music. People still enjoy listening to vinyl and CDs because of their tactile nature but streaming brings a different level of convenience offering equally great pleasure. It’s not the same as putting on a record and sitting down really to indulge in it, but streaming appeals as it puts a world of music in your pocket, on your phone, and it’s affordable. Change is constant in our industry: streaming is now the main medium for listening to music, although CDs and vinyl still have their place. The one thing that will never change is that music will always be there, at the heart of everything we do. Our passion for music is what drives us to make the products that we make, and tell the stories we tell: from launching our Made By Music podcast with artist interviews to running events in our music venue HQ.’ Charlie Henderson, CMO

The brand has been innovating in the audio space since it was founded in 1968

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Put customers first: the brand isn’t what we say it is, it’s what they

say it is. ◆ It’s all about the music: we make products to connect people with music. ◆ Do the right thing: a business doesn’t just exist to make money; we aim to improve people’s lives with our products. 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘THE ONE THING THAT WILL NEVER CHANGE IS THAT MUSIC WILL ALWAYS BE THERE, AT THE HEART OF EVERYTHING WE DO’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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The P40 integrated amplifier, launched in 1968, was our firstever product, and the world’s first to use a toroidal transformer.

In 1984, Cambridge Audio launched the CD1, the world’s first two-box CD player, which is still recognised as a landmark product in CD reproduction.

Alva TT, launched in 2019, was the world’s first aptX HD Bluetooth turntable, meaning you could play your records in hi-res anywhere in the house.

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Our first pair of true wireless earphones, Melomania 1 (2019), gave us the chance to give people great sound on the go.

In 2022 we won our first two Red Dot Awards for product design, with our Melomania 1+ earphones and Evo Series of all-in-one players.

CAMBRIDGE AUDIO Gallery Court, Hankey Place London SE1 4BB cambridgeaudio.com bit.ly/madebymusic cambridgeaudio

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CHRISTY

Towels and bedding that turn routines into revitalising rituals

‘W

hen Christy was founded 170 years ago, we wanted every individual to have a piece of luxury. However, today, our products are more than luxury. We embrace the every day. Our job is to provide comfort. We want someone, after a long day, to have the best night’s sleep and to wake up feeling refreshed. I see technology as an enabler. We already use it for creating content and have started looking into it for marketing activities. We want to look at our Trustpilot reviews, what is being said about us online and on social media. We can then learn what is working for us and what is not before looking at a modernised mix and changing our approach accordingly. Next, we’re working with AI on communication. Firstly, we want our chatbots to give tailored suggestions to customers. We also want to use AI for cognitive insight and looking at trends. For example, take a person from Hampstead. I would like our website to give product recommendations based on geographical location. That said, human touch remains essential. We have features coming up on our website, which filter our products by feeling. It is vital

that every time a customer is in touch with the brand – from shopping to the opening of a package – that the experience is personalised, seamless and even enjoyable. Good customer service is key. We want to address any concerns, hear everyone out and, most importantly, be transparent and honest. In September 2023, we relaunched Christy. We want to remain current and aspirational while still rooted in our history. We are looking at product extensions and increasing our geographic footprint – we’re entering Japan and considering the USA. However, it all comes back to the main idea: that customers love their Christy product.’ Vanshika Goenka Misra, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ That each time we fail, it is important to ‘fail forward’ and move ahead,

be wiser for our mistakes. ◆ To always stretch the possible and keep following our own North Star. ◆ Our team and employees are our brand’s ambassadors so it’s essential that the team is happy.

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‘TODAY, OUR PRODUCTS ARE MORE THAN LUXURY. WE EMBRACE THE EVERY DAY’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Ever since Queen Victoria made her first purchase of Christy towels in the 1850s, we’ve been loved by the British royal family.

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Making the towels for the 1987 Wimbledon Championships and continuing to do so every year.

Celebrating 170 years of the brand in 2020. We had successfully thrived through two World Wars, several economic crashes and even a pandemic or two.

Receiving a letter from an 86-year-old couple in 2023 who have used and purchased Christy towels since they were in their 20s, and told us how much they loved our products and their quality.

Seeing our brand relaunch come together last year. Looking through the archives of Christy and realising that we have always been relevant whether in the 1800s, 1900s or even today.

CHRISTY 6th Floor, Regent House Heaton Lane, Stockport SK4 1BS +44 (0)1613 675800 christy.co.uk christy_home Everyday luxury and comfort is at the heart of the Christy brand

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CHRISTYS’

Godfather of British hat-making for a quarter of a millennium

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hristy & Co Ltd has been manufacturing fine hats in England since 1773, and our founder Miller Christy’s passion for quality and craft skills has been handed down through generations of hat-makers for 250 years. Today, craftsmen and women at our own factory in Witney, Oxfordshire, trained over many years to perfect their hatting skills, still use time-honoured methods; 24 separate processes go into making a Christys’ felt hat. Our pride in such craftship is emblazoned in Christys’ red-andgold insignia – synonymous with the finest traditionally crafted hats – found in each lining and on our renowned red hat-boxes. Our specialist collection ranges from felts and panamas to bakerboy caps, top hats and bowlers. The stories of Christys’ hats have passed into British history and Hollywood legend: we made headwear for the first police forces in Britain; our top hat, popularised by Prince Albert, became an everyday essential for the British gentleman (a Christys’ ‘topper’ is in the V&A); Marlon Brando wore our Homburg as Don Corleone; and Indiana Jones made our Poet Adventurer his globally recognised trademark. A business with such depth of heritage and history is backed by our modern resolve to make the finest products with the best materials and a vow never to compromise on product quality. Technology helps with time, cost

In 2023, Christys’ celebrated 150 years of exemplary hat-making

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... Guardianship is key but hat-making is more than a heritage brand story: machinery, techniques and people preserve that rarity, a specialist British manufacturer. ◆ Alignment. Focus on every element and detail for a clear product, message and direction. ◆ Time must play its part: allow the impact of your work and actions to take effect; it’s not always linear or as expected. 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘CRAFTING AND WEARING A HAT INVOLVE TOUCH, FEEL, SOUND AND SIGHT FOR THE PERFECT FIT AND STYLE, SENSES THAT DIGITAL CANNOT REPLACE’ and efficiency in delivering the many different elements of a brand and business. Online selling reaches national and international buyers. AI is on our horizon and we will embrace it when it can help us deliver better. But in the end our story is human, personal and sensory, as much as written. Both crafting and wearing a hat involve touch, feel, sound and sight for the perfect fit and style, senses that digital cannot replace. You need to try on a hat to understand it.’ Jonathan Boston, Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1773, Miller Christy travels south from Stockport to employ his hat-making skills. On 1 March, in partnership with Joseph Storrs, he started the company in Whitehart Court, London.

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In 1850 Prince Albert first wears a Christys’ top hat, popularising the style as an everyday essential for the British gentleman.

From 2017, our Ascot license produces exclusive pieces for the iconic racecourse, with Christys’ making seasonal hat collections for both Ascot and Royal Ascot.

The company’s 250th Anniversary year, 2023, brought a new cap-making production facility, reinvigorating craft skills with new machinery to enable British-made and -crafted caps alongside our felts and panamas.

This year, we celebrate two of Britain’s oldest makers and specialists in their fields, in a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin on cashmere caps.

CHRISTYS’ HATS Witan Park, Avenue 2, Station Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX28 4FH +44 (0)1993 770736 christys-hats.com christyshats

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CLIVE CHRISTIAN INTERIORS

Cabinetry and furniture hand-made to stand the test of time

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ast year was a significant one punctuated by much growth and change. My Americanbased partner and I took ownership in April 2022 and, as Sales Director previously, I knew the business and its potential inside-out. Being a strong brand is advantageous but also requires significant development. We opened three new showrooms in 2023, including our London flagship townhouse. At our core there’s a level of craftsmanship that needs a human touch, so it’s not always easy to meet demand. We’re losing skilled craftspeople across disciplines, from joinery to timberwork and marquetry. As a business and workshop, we’re investing in apprenticeship programmes and bringing in new blood, ensuring that older generations pass on and teach their time-honed skills and knowledge to the next. We appreciate technology plays a role and yes, it has its advantages, but we still need people. Technology is well and good but the person in charge of it needs the personal know-how to get the most out of it. We believe that the marriage between human experience, knowledge and new technology, propels us further to ensure we remain the best at what we do. Automated processes don’t mean we lose touch with our core principles – it enhances them. Our latest collections, The Garden

Clive Christian is known for its artisan kitchens, made by craftspeople using traditional, long-standing techniques

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ I’m only as strong as my highly motivated, hardworking, passionate

team. ◆ Be adaptable and unafraid to pivot or adjust for the betterment of your company, customers and employees. ◆ Foster young talent. As we see a growing shortage of skills, we must do more to re-educate the world about what Clive Christian and the industry generally does. 66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE’RE INVESTING IN APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAMMES AND BRINGING IN NEW BLOOD, ENSURING THAT OLDER GENERATIONS PASS ON AND TEACH THEIR TIME-HONED SKILLS’ Kitchen and Opus, demonstrate our dedication to applying new technologies and handcrafted honed skills to design. A Clive Christian room stands the test of time, like The Garden Kitchen, made with stainless steel used on superyachts and with minimal-tonon-existent horizontal lines to repel water residue. Our Opus collection is engineered in an entirely new way by both machine and hand. As 2024 starts, we’re launching an e-commerce product line. Offering items like chopping boards, larder ladders and serving trays, it will enable audiences to aspire to and connect more widely with our brand without necessarily buying a whole room.’ Phil Cole, Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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The opening of the first Clive Christian workshop in Bolton in 1978 – the Victoria kitchen is the first to be made .

HRH The Princess Royal’s 2018 visit to the Clive Christian workshop in recognition of our significance in the luxury industry.

Producing The Garden Kitchen, our first-ever outdoor collection, in 2021, expanding the product range to incorporate the entire home. Launching our first contemporary collection, Opus, in 2022, made to be more sustainable and introduce a new style to the brand.

Opening three major new showrooms in Edinburgh, Los Angeles and our flagship showroom in Kensington in 2023, marking a landmark year.

CLIVE CHRISTIAN INTERIORS 1 Sydney Place London SW7 3NW +44 (0)20 3959 1060 clivechristianinteriors.com clivechristian_interiors

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COOKSON ADVENTURES

Pioneering some of the very best travel experiences on the planet

‘W

hen I founded Cookson Adventures, the drive for me was curiosity. I had this thirst to explore and experience different cultures. Then there was this burning passion to share that. I wanted more people to see this incredibly diverse planet. So often, people have such a tiny window into what they can see. It’s about expanding that window. The principle of the company is authenticity. With the expansion of technology, authenticity can be the victim. We’re proud that we have filmed and photographed our adventures for 15 years so the team can bring this to clients to give them ideas. Anyone can buy stock footage and use AI to manufacture something, but we have the real stuff. I think AI is a tool to be used responsibly. Quite often we build remote camps for people or pop-up experiences that obviously don’t exist yet. We can use AI to give people a mood board of ideas we are planning. But we only use AI to promote things within our sphere of expertise or influence. Looking forward, we’re really excited about Greenland, which is on the frontier of climate change. We are hoping to build a custom floating camp there. Papua New Guinea is very much on our radar

Cookson offers authentic adventures and travel experiences customers would unable to find elsewhere

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ To step back and allow my team to fly. It gives people the space to grow

into their capabilities. ◆ To strike the perfect level in terms of appreciating people’s limits. Some people may want hardcore experiences, others something gentler. ◆ That people want to learn about conservation. We don’t need to bring the subject in through the back door. 68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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as well. We’re also heavily into conservation, which we marry into our trips. We share this earth and have a responsibility to look after it. So, it’s good to gently educate people. Then there’s transformative wellness, which we are introducing as nature is a key part of this. We try to do things beyond the ordinary. It’s not necessarily finding new geographical areas, – it’s ways of reinventing. I think we’ve always done a really great job in keeping ahead of the curve. We want to keep on constantly innovating and pushing those boundaries.’ Henry Cookson, founder

‘ANYONE CAN BUY STOCK FOOTAGE AND USE AI TO MANUFACTURE SOMETHING, BUT WE HAVE THE REAL STUFF’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Pioneering ground-breaking yacht expeditions in some of the world’s most remote destinations where few – if any – have been before and mapping the seabed with sonar technology. We gave this new data to scientists, governments and global projects, like Seabed 2030.

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Our team of marine scientists discovering a new species of killer whale on a client’s yacht trip to Antarctica.

Organising one of Kenya’s largest rhino translocations, working alongside government authorities and top conservationists. Creating one-of-a-kind bespoke camps, including a world-first ‘floating’ aurora camp on a frozen glacial lake in Iceland and the first luxury tented camps in Socotra, an island off Yemen.

In 2024, celebrating 15 years of creating extraordinary journeys and pushing boundaries in the luxury travel space.

COOKSON ADVENTURES 2 Clearwater Terrace London W11 4XL +44 (0)20 7736 0452 cooksonadventures.com cooksonadventures

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CROCKETT & JONES

Family-owned maker of fine English shoes

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Crockett & Jones’s shoes are made by hand using tried and tested techniques that are a 100 years old

rockett & Jones is England’s largest Goodyear welted shoemaker. We’ve always taken the view that the market for the type of high-quality shoes we produce is big enough to generate sufficient demand for our products. We’ve been doing a lot of work on building our brand over the last 20 years, and our shops have been an important part of that process. Fashion changes constantly with trends varying from country to country. We keep abreast of this by working closely with the finest menswear stores and most experienced buyers from around the world. Nowadays, as sales of formal black Oxfords remain stable, almost all growth is coming from loafers and boots. As a result of the long-term trend towards a more relaxed way of living, we’re selling more brown, suede and rubber-soled shoes and boots. The way Crockett & Jones makes its shoes hasn’t changed much in the last century. It’s a traditional process which, although mechanised to some extent, requires skilled operatives with good hand-eye co-ordination. Each shoe is an individual creation. Similarly, the process of cutting the leather is one in which the cutter’s skill and experience is all important. Leather is a natural product – no two skins are the same – so how the leather is

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The importance of loyalty and long-term relationships. ◆ That we’re only

as good as our people working in the factory. ◆ Not to rest on our laurels.

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‘WE HAVE A SOLID BASE OF CUSTOMERS WHO RECOGNISE THAT QUALITY IS THE RESULT OF OUR COMMITMENT TO TRADITIONAL METHODS AND HIGH-GRADE MATERIALS’ cut depends on the clicker’s judgement and experience, something it would be difficult and no doubt very expensive to teach a computer to do. I’m not saying that AI couldn’t do these things but that the scale would have to be huge to derive any benefit from the cost. We have a solid base of customers who recognise that quality is the result of our commitment to traditional methods and highgrade materials.’ Jonathan Jones, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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At the 1911 Turin International Exhibition, Crockett & Jones showed over 100 styles and won several awards.

Our Northampton factory was built in 1912 with a then-advanced steel structure, which has stood the test of time wonderfully. Crockett & Jones opened its first shop in London’s Jermyn Street in 1997.

Our association with Eon Productions, the producers of the James Bond films, began with the Alex, Highbury, Tetbury, and Islay shoes, as worn by Daniel Craig in Skyfall, and continues to the present.

The launch of our e-commerce business in March 2021, which created a whole new sales channel for Crockett & Jones.

CROCKETT & JONES 92 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6JE +44 (0)20 7839 5239 crockettandjones.com crockettandjones_official

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CUNARD

The legendary cruise line adds another ship to its fleet

‘H

eritage is undeniably rooted in Cunard’s DNA, and the glamour that goes along with that. We offer something elegant and timeless. Storytelling is really important too, and we’re lucky to have a wealth of stories from our 183-year colourful history. Many of our guests enjoy extended voyages with us and some even spend months on board travelling the world. But it’s almost less about the destination and more about the journey. More of our guests are looking to research and book experiences digitally, so we have the opportunity to bring the brand and product alive digitally, through video, sound and using guest feedback. As we look ahead to the launch of our new ship Queen Anne, we have worked with worldrenowned designers famous for the interiors of some of the world’s most luxurious hotels and restaurants. We have woven together the very best features from land-based hotels, with our signature entertainment, fine dining experiences and White Star Service.

Cunard has been delighting its guests for over 180 years, on cruises all over the world

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Love your brand, focus on your guests, and always innovate and evolve

your product. ◆ It’s okay to not have your career completely planned, but if you keep doing what you really love, you will give yourself a sense of purpose. ◆ The importance of building diverse teams, ensuring that everyone feels challenged, valued, and passionate about what they do. 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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Queen Anne will have more dining options than we’ve had on any ship, with 15 restaurants. It’s about taking our heritage and designing something truly modern for the future. Wellness is going to be a really big theme on Queen Anne. It will have our largest-ever spa at sea and a restaurant dedicated to wellness, with organically and sustainably sourced meat, fish and other ingredients, and it will be very much plant-based. Our four ships will offer something different in different parts of the world, including new event voyages featuring theatre, gastronomy and wine, arts and literature. Our week-long Literary Festival at Sea event voyage sailing across the Atlantic on our flagship Queen Mary 2, for example, is a literary haven, where book lovers engage with a whole host of acclaimed authors, poets, journalists, critics and historians.’ Katie McAlister, President

‘HERITAGE IS UNDENIABLY ROOTED IN CUNARD’S DNA, AND THE GLAMOUR THAT GOES ALONG WITH THAT’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Queen Elizabeth II was welcomed aboard Queen Mary 2 as godmother to the ship in 2004. The late monarch was also godmother to Queen Elizabeth (2010), while The Queen is godmother to Queen Victoria (2007).

In 2015 we celebrated our 175th anniversary in our spiritual home of Liverpool. More than one million people from across the North West lined the river Mersey to see Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, and Queen Elizabeth sail down it.

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The launch of the first Transatlantic Fashion Week in 2016, on our flagship Queen Mary 2, the world’s only ocean liner.

In 2017 we were the first cruise line to host a film premiere on board, with the launch of The Greatest Showman on Queen Mary 2. In 2023 we celebrated a centenary of the first ever round-the-world voyage on RMS Laconia with our Sea Views exhibition, curated by British photographer and filmmaker Mary McCartney.

CUNARD Carnival House, 100 Harbour Parade, Southampton, Hampshire SO15 1ST +44 (0)7879 198864 cunard.com cunardline

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CW LONDON Boutique residential estate agency, specialising in prime London property

‘I

n 2018, after 25 years as an estate agent in central London, including 18 years at Strutt & Parker running the 100-strong residential team, I decided to get back to the roots of the profession. I missed helping clients buying and selling properties, so I set up on my own to do just that. Utilising the resources of The

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

London Broker, of which I am CEO, I created a business where I could personalise the service for my clients. The main focus of my work is on property sales, however; while selling a property for a client, I’ll often be asked to help with their search for a new property. My business relies on a small number of high-value transactions a year, so excellent client relationships are critical. I work very closely with people, paying careful attention to their requirements so that I can tailor a strategy specifically for them. Most of my clients come to me through word-of-mouth and my extensive, long-standing professional connections. The majority are UK-based but originate from a variety of international backgrounds. London is a vibrant melting pot of nationalities, a fact reflected in the mix of my clients: Middle Eastern, Asian, American, Canadian, Ukrainian, and others. While I work mainly in the UK, I am expanding internationally as the needs of my clients diversify. On the question of AI affecting the business’s future, while the human touch is vitally important, I think that AI could help in two ways. First, it could improve efficiencies enabling us to reach our target audience more rapidly and, secondly, it may help reduce the transaction timetable which has grown increasingly long over the course of my career. London remains an exciting cosmopolitan city with opportunities galore and is still a great place to be in the long term.’ Charlie Willis, founder & CEO

Since our launch in July 2019, we have won some prestigious awards including the Rolls Royce International Awards 2021-2022 as Best Estate Agent in London & UK.

In Sept 2019 I became CEO of The London Broker, helping other experienced independent brokers to transact business for their clients brilliantly here and globally.

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With sales of residential property exceeding £100 million, 2023 was an extraordinary year for CW London. A recent off-market sale for some long-established clients achieved more than the £22.5m asking price after competitive bidding, overdelivering on client expectations.

Armed with an abundance of positive testimonials, CW London is focused on its continuing ability to offer future clients the best possible results.

CW LONDON LTD 64 Knightsbridge London SW1X7JF +44 (0)7740 511496 charliewillis.london charlie_willis_london

As a broker with decades of experience and the contacts to match, Charlie is exactly placed to help clients find their dream homes

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ A large team doesn’t necessarily provide a better service – boutique

is more personal. ◆ People expect thoughtful and timely communication, not an ongoing assault of unbelievable, computer-generated blurb. Less is more. ◆ Keep it simple, after listening carefully to clients’ brief. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 75

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theLIST

Ten Brilliant British Buys For Your Wardrobe LUCINDA CHAMBERS picks the pieces that are never going out of style

COLLAGERIE X WITH NOTHING UNDERNEATH

I have watched the growth of WNU from the sidelines as its founder, Pip Durell, was a colleague at Vogue. It was with such pleasure that we collaborated with her on this collection. The quality and design is just brilliant, and it’s striped! £130, collagerie.com

Cuff

McQueen is an incredible brand: the shows are always magical and the details are just fantastic, like this bracelet. Strong and stylish, it’s a modern heirloom. £990, alexandermcqueen.com

Neeson tassel tote

I am an Anya fan. And I love a white bag, it has to be said, as oddly and wonderfully they go with everything. This is both beautiful and practical. £1,295, anyahindmarch.com

Collarless boyfriend shirt

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

ANYA HINDMARCH

BURBERRY Hooded scarf

Burberry is one of the best British brands. It’s so much more than the trench; it has the ability to reinvent itself and remains so integral to British fashion. Its accessories this season are brilliant. I love this scarf slash hoodie – I have a feeling once on you’ll never take it off. £690, burberry.com

PAUL SMITH A suit to travel in

Paul Smith, beloved by the Brits and the world. This suit is a classic. As they say, boardroom to bar, with a flat or heel, it’s a keeper. Blazer, £640; trousers, £340, paulsmith.com

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JIMMY CHOO Alizze knee boots

These boots look the business. I have a pair of Jimmy Choo tobacco boots that I wear day in and out, and evenings too when the weather turns. They are now about ten years old and still look great. These are really smart and very dynamic, and I can testify brown boots look wonderful with every colour, from black to brights. £1,325, jimmy choo.com

ME+EM

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Me+Em is a brand that has deservedly grown from the first mail order catalogue, always beautifully shot, to eight shops around the UK. I love this coat, smart with slouch, always a great combo. £575, meandem.com

Thierry dress

The late, great designer’s motto was 'Buy Less, Choose Well, Make It Last’. With that in mind, this chillired dress – featuring her signature draped neckline and asymmetrical skirt – will last you a lifetime. £1,680, viviennewestwood.com

BARBOUR Burne cape

Barbour is so much more than a beautiful wax jacket. I have to say, khaki is my favourite colour, and so this ticks a lot of boxes for me: chunky and elegant. £105, barbour.com

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Town-to-

country coat

STELLA McCARTNEY Aviator sunglasses

For me it’s always about an aviator. I have a pair of Stella’s sunglasses that are probably about 15 years old now. Time for an upgrade – it'll likely last me another 15. £270, stellamccartney.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 77

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GBB 2024 —— D

DAVIDSON LONDON

Contemporary, British-designed luxury furniture

‘B

efore Davidson was founded, my parents were antiques dealers so I grew up with the smell of furniture polish. When the company began, we created high end reproduction furniture, which felt like a natural progression from antiques. As time evolved, we branched out into our own designs, making everything to order in the UK. In 2005 we opened our first showroom in Mayfair which is when the brand really took off. Then we spent 18 years at Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, designing two collections a year to coincide with Focus and London Design Week. We have just moved to a beautiful, larger showroom in Chelsea Reach. This allows us to display our extensive collection of products better, host more events and have greater collaboration among the team. After Covid, working from home became the norm and I think businesses are now questioning how to find a balance. It’s a lot harder to maintain a strong work culture when you’re not working collaboratively and it can slow progress down. One of the values within the business is connection – whether that’s with clients, team members or suppliers. Building connections and relationships can be hugely undervalued in business. I think AI serves a huge purpose for neurodiversity – as someone

Davidson’s distinctive, yet timeless, furniture designs have established it as a leader in the luxury market

who is dyslexic, I personally use it quite a lot. I write down my thoughts and it helps me articulate them in a better way. As a Managing Director running a business, if you want people to get behind you, it’s crucial to articulate things clearly. The furniture manufacturing itself is still a combination of machinery and handcrafted techniques. As the brand has grown, we’ve started working in larger workshops to keep up with demand, but even though the production is on a bigger scale, artisanal skills applied by hand are very important.’ Alexandra Davidson, Managing Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... to focus on relationships and numbers, both oxygen to the business. ◆ I love a challenge – the harder the better. ◆ There is power in visualisation. I invest time in visualising where our business is going and it’s surprising what this can achieve.

PHOTOS: © NIKKI BISIKER

◆ Covid propelled me to be the leader I always aspired to be. I was forced

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

When Richard and Deirdre Davidson established Davidson in 1986, starting with high-end reproduction furniture, then progressing into making their own, one-off designs.

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Alexandra Davidson’s appointment as Managing Director in 2012.

When the brand celebrated three decades of design excellence in 2016.

Launching our ‘Buy Once’ sustainability promise in 2021. This includes reducing our environmental footprint, using blanket-wrapped delivery to cut out plastic, minimising waste, and producing quality furniture to last for future generations.

Launching our collaboration with Kelly Hoppen in 2023, a collection of 12 exceptional pieces, crafted in grey-toned and black timber veneers and high-gloss lacquers.

DAVIDSON LONDON Unit A3, Chelsea Reach Tower 78-79 Lots Road London SW10 0RN +44 (0)20 7751 5537 davidsonlondon.com davidsonlondon

‘THE LARGER SHOWROOM IN PHOTOS: © NIKKI BISIKER

CHELSEA REACH ALLOWS US TO BETTER DISPLAY PRODUCTS AND HAVE GREATER COLLABORATION BETWEEN OUR TEAM AND CLIENTS’

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DAYLESFORD ORGANIC

The organic farm committed to helping save the planet

aylesford Organic is a leading lifestyle brand and one of Britain’s most visited farmshops. Based on its own organic farm in the Cotswolds with locations in London, the business champions regenerative, nature-led agriculture and products sourced from artisanal, low-impact suppliers. At Daylesford Organic waste of any kind is seen as a last resort. Across the business Daylesford actively identifies areas of surplus produce or material and works to transform them into valuable products, including bone broths, made from its own abattoir’s marrow-rich bones, and Market Garden vegetables. Meanwhile, materials such as wood, leather and wool have been utilised across the Bamford Collection, providing insulation, architectural features and furnishings for Daylesford Stays. More recently, coffee grounds from Daylesford’s cafés have been upcycled to create the B Vibrant Tonifying Body Polish for Bamford, launching later this year. The chefs at Daylesford find inspiration in the seasons and rarely let anything go to waste, finding creative ways to use the seasonal gluts from the Market Garden. On restaurant menus you will find zero hero specials, dishes not only to help avoid food waste in Daylesford’s own locations, but also to support broader food waste initiatives with a donation from each dish supporting the The Felix Project. Daylesford has had a long-standing partnership with this London-based food distribution charity, donating more than 650,000 meals since 2016. The 28-acre Market Garden produces 300 varieties of fruit and vegetables over the year. Several varieties of each crop are planted to mitigate the impacts of climate change or unseasonable weather, which was detrimental to this year’s harvest.

Daylesford Organic has been pioneering natureled farming and food since it was founded

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‘AT DAYLESFORD ORGANIC WASTE OF ANY KIND IS SEEN AS A LAST RESORT’ The Trough restaurant at the farm retained its prestigious Green Michelin Star for the third year running, in recognition of its high ethical and environmental standards. This award has only been bestowed upon 31 restaurants in the UK to date and recognises high ethical and environmental standards. In March Daylesford was proud to achieve B Corp certification, joining a worldwide business community that meets high standards for social and environmental impact. It is already working on improving its score and to celebrate being recognised for making a difference in 2024, it will publish its first impact report, setting out its ambitious targets for net zero.

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

In 2001, Daylesford Organic received certification from the Soil Association, the country’s leading organic certifier.

In 2014, making use of surplus organic ingredients from Daylesford farm to create our range of bone broths, a delicious, much-loved and highly nutritious product.

The Trough restaurant at its Cotswold farm being awarded a Green Michelin Star in 2021, one of only 27 pioneering restaurants to hold this accolade.

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Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Daylesford Organic’s farm shop in 2022.

Achieving B Corp certification in 2023, recognising the efforts the business makes every day to reduce its impact and be a positive force for change.

DAYLESFORD ORGANIC Daylesford Farm, Daylesford Nr Moreton-In-Marsh Gloucestershire GL56 0YG +44 (0)1608 692871 daylesford.com daylesfordfarm

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DEIRDRE DYSON

Beautiful hand-designed colourful carpets hand-knotted in Nepal

‘J

anuary 2023 was exciting. I’d started doing paintings of my colourful “Angles” collection to hang alongside the carpets and was invited to exhibit them at a Mayfair gallery. I sold quite a few, so it was a real success. I was thrilled in July when we nailed Livingetc’s Best Collection Award – I’ve won awards for Best Carpet but never for Best Collection. I’m not creating a new design for my 2024 collection. Instead, my new carpets are all about graded colour. As an artist, I love playing with colour and making it work three dimensionally, and I’ve flooded one colour into the next to arrive at a blend as seamlessly as possible. It takes hours, but the results are beautiful, and they have gorgeous, exotic names like Aquarelle or Topaz. People often find it difficult selecting a design – the more choice, the harder it is. So, this is the solution, the client needs only to select two or more colours and we’ll grade them into each other to work perfectly with the client’s environment. We’re launching these in the UK in the spring and in Paris in January during Maison et Objet week. We use technology to give the makers an absolutely accurate rendition of my designs, but we don’t use it to create anything. I do my original sketch to scale and once it’s scanned into the

‘I CAN’T VISUALISE NEEDING TECHNOLOGY FOR ANYTHING MORE BECAUSE THE WHOLE POINT IS THAT OUR CARPETS ARE HAND-DESIGNED AND HANDMADE’

computer, we can manipulate it or change colours according to a client’s specific wishes. Technology is useful in that respect but even the changes involve a good understanding of design and colour. Other than that, I can’t visualise needing technology for anything more because the whole point is that our carpets are hand-designed and handmade. Each one is entirely original, hand-knotted in wool and silk using the amazing skills of our Nepalese craftspeople.’ Deirdre Dyson

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ To trust myself and my own abilities. ◆ To place total trust and confidence

in my team, who are like my second family. ◆ A close, personal relationship with each client makes for the best results and is mutually rewarding.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Being invited by the V&A to design carpets to accompany its exhibitions – International Arts & Crafts (2005), Modernism (2006) and The Golden Age of Couture (2007) and having one commissioned for the opening of the Jameel Gallery of Islamic Art. All to illustrate modern methods of carpet design beside earlier works on display.

Publishing my book Walking on Art in 2015, documenting my journey from fine artist to carpet designer, and learning the design process and artisan manufacture of my carpets.

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The opening of my King’s Road gallery in 2015, refurbished by architect Timothy Hatton. Receiving orders for my carpets from members of the British Consulate. The opening of the Paris gallery in Rue des Saints-Pères in 2020.

DEIRDRE DYSON 554 King’s Road, London SW6 2DZ 12 Rue des Saints-Pères, Paris 75007 +44 (0)20 7384 4464 deirdredyson.com deirdredysonrugs

All of Deirdre Dyson’s rugs are hand-knotted in wool and silk, with gorgeous colour her signature

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DIFFERENCE COFFEE A collection revered by coffee industry critics and top chefs alike

‘I

founded Difference Coffee with one aim: to make the world’s best coffees available to discerning coffee lovers who, like me, have a capsule machine. Coffee loses its flavours and turns stale quickly with exposure to air. Airtight capsules keep every portion of ground coffee oxygenfree, at the peak of freshness. Coffee is a fresh product – 90 percent of its taste depends on the quality of the beans. Arabica coffee is graded on a 100-point system. We only source beans scoring 80+ (the top one percent), deemed Specialty Arabica grade, from legendary estates, elite competitions and auctions, and farms cultivating rare varietals. Like our Panama Geisha, our Hawaiian Kona from the annual Kona Cupping competition winner, or our current product from the Cup of Excellence Nicaragua champion. By then packing the world’s rarest, tastiest, most aromatic coffees into capsules, we have created a collection revered by coffee industry critics and top chefs alike. Great restaurants can be small, but fewer guests mean less coffee served. Investing in expensive equipment and baristas is prohibitive. Over 100 Michelinstarred chefs, eight with the prestigious three stars, now serve our capsule coffees. One quarter of 194 UK Michelin restaurants in 2023 serve Difference Coffee, including the National Restaurant Association Awards’ Top Three: Ynyshir, Moor Hall and Da Terra. Technology certainly helps: Chat GPT drafts press releases for

Amir Gehl (above) only uses the top one percent of coffee beans – his capsules are now used in Michelin-starred restaurants

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ There are always more challenging days than joyous ones, so it’s all the

more important to genuinely love and believe in what you do to create a successful brand. ◆ Never give up! Tenacity is the ultimate currency when it comes to driving and leading a business forward. ◆ People + Planet = Profit. 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘I FOUNDED DIFFERENCE COFFEE TO MAKE THE WORLD’S BEST COFFEES AVAILABLE TO DISCERNING COFFEE LOVERS WHO HAVE A CAPSULE MACHINE’ us; we tell our story through our Little eBook of Coffee Essentials; video calls make communication and relationships more personal, reducing global travel, saving money and precious planetary resources. But the human touch remains paramount for success: identify exceptional farmers, give them the right remuneration for their hard work, and others will follow suit. That is how we encourage coffeegrowing excellence, make a massive difference to farmers’ sustainable livelihoods and give delight to coffee connoisseurs across the world.’ Amir Gehl, Founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 2017, a year after launch, we received our first request from a chef of a Michelin-starred restaurant to try our coffee. It’s no mean feat to sell to such prestigious establishments.

We gained our 100th Michelinstarred client serving Difference Coffee in 2021. That client is in Italy, our fastest growing market. Italians know their coffee.

We proudly became a Climate Positive company, also in 2021. Our carbon footprint is calculated and offset via Earthly, a market leader in the field.

In 2022, Walpole selected us for its Brands of Tomorrow programme, bestowed on just 12 of 100+ applicants, marking our entry to the British luxury brand arena.

Our coffees won multiple taste awards from the Aurora Taste Challenge and the Monde Selection, making us the most awarded of all coffee companies in 2023.

DIFFERENCE COFFEE +44 (0)20 7873 2062 differencecoffee.com differencecoffee

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GBB 2024 —— D

DR HAUS DERMATOLOGY

A leading private Harley Street clinic, specialising in medical and aesthetic dermatology

‘I

first became fascinated by dermatology at university, because the skin is the largest organ in our body and has so many important functions. I specialise in laser work and injectable-based treatments, as well treating skin cancers on the NHS, but at the clinic we have a team of dermatologists. Between us, we cover the full spectrum of medical and aesthetic dermatology. When a patient comes to see me, I am like Sherlock Holmes, looking back at their past and family history to understand what is happening now. The brain and skin are like twins, so if your body is stressed, the first way to release it is through the skin. I always ask about a patient’s mental health, stress, diet, lifestyle – all this can have an impact on the skin. What we see can be the consequence rather than the cause, or a symptom of a serious problem with another organ so it’s important to take a 360-degree holistic approach. For instance, rosacea is a very complex condition. Some doctors simply prescribe antibiotics but new research has shown that taking probiotics to improve your microbiomes automatically improves the skin. I am always learning about new technologies and I’ve loved lasers ever since being fanatical about Star Wars as a child. Lasers can be used to treat so many different types of conditions, as varied as sun damage, facial redness, melasma, large pores, acne scars and some skin cancers. At the moment, there is a huge race among pharmaceutical companies, which are all trying to work out how to make the best use of AI and develop patents and licenses the fastest. In the short term, I think it will be a useful tool to accelerate the diagnosis of conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, but the human touch is priceless.’

Dr Haus is passionate about the use of lasers to treat skin conditions

Dr Ariel Haus, Founder

◆ No matter how much education, qualifications or experience you have, you

can never stop learning. ◆ It is important to be able to offer patients options, and that’s why we constantly invest in the latest technology for treating the skin. ◆ We get a lot of referrals from existing patients because people will always remember how you made them feel.

PHOTOS: © VISIBLE BY HANNAH

WHAT I’VE LEARNT...

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Starting my clinic from a single room on Harley Street in 2010.

Starting to use the eMax laser platform a year later for skin rejuvenation and to treat conditions such as acne and rosacea. This is still used in the clinic today.

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Moving Dr Haus Dermatology into its newly refurbished Grade-II listed premises at 75 Harley Street in 2021. Acquiring the Smart Pico Laser, using the fastest pulse available, in 2023. The clinic offers nine different laser platforms and over 50 treatment modalities.

Today, Dr Haus Dermatology is a team of 20, including six dermatologists, for patients aged 13 years and above.

DR HAUS DERMATOLOGY 75 Harley Street, London W1G 8QL +44 (0)20 7935 6358 drhausdermatology.com dr.haus.dermatology

PHOTOS: © VISIBLE BY HANNAH

‘I ALWAYS ASK ABOUT A PATIENT’S MENTAL HEALTH, STRESS, DIET, LIFESTYLE – ALL THIS CAN HAVE AN IMPACT ON THE SKIN’

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DR SEBAGH

Pioneer in science-backed, non-surgical skincare, through effective product formulations and clinics, internationally

‘Y

ou can improve skin at any age with good skincare and the right ingredients. That’s what we deliver, having coined the phrase “Ageing-Maintenance” in 1985. The physiology of the skin is unchanging, so skincare doesn’t need to be complicated. Advances in science and ingredient technology mean that we can achieve even more exciting, effective results, but the research takes time. We never rush a new launch. We do adjust our formulations to ensure that products meet different markets’ regulations. We manufacture in France under European regulations, stricter than in America, and sell in China where regulations are stricter still, particularly around naming and description. Retinol is an essential ingredient in skincare but the concentration differs from market to market. We have improved some formulations ten times over 20 years. Each time we change something, what emerges is new and more efficacious. There’s not really a new technological approach to making the emulsions and gels that go into our products. It’s still classic chemistry. There’s more biotech – use of natural plants – and technology has helped improve materials, ingredients, purity or the sensitivity of a product. But sometimes technology goes too far, and cosmetics are not allowed to be so efficient that they become medication. In relating to customers, we’re quite personal and less data-focused than newer companies. Our message is about great skincare to improve

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... treatments and breakthrough products, I’m always looking ahead to the next big development. ◆ Balancing enhancing a client’s appearance with scientific understanding of anatomy and physiology is critical to achieving natural-looking, safe results.

PHOTOS: © IVAN WEISS

◆ Learning never ceases! As a cosmetic doctor who pioneers new

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‘PROVIDING TAILORED TREATMENT IN THE CLINIC AND SKINCARE ROUTINES IS THE FOUNDATION OF OUR APPROACH’ your skin, good customer service and patient after-care. Providing tailored treatment in the clinic and skincare routines is the foundation of our approach. Personal contact is 100 percent the most important thing for us. In terms of developing cosmetic products, AI is not there yet. AI couldn’t give you the concentration of ingredients in our formulations, because our “recipes” remain secret.’ Dr Sebagh, founder, & Melissa John, co-owner

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Beautiful Chandos House, a Grade I-listed building in Marylebone, has been sympathetically restored by Dr Sebagh

Creating the concept of ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ with non-surgical cosmetic procedures in 1985, and pioneering this vision in the UK since 1994, with the opening of the first Dr Sebagh Clinic in London.

Launching my own Dr Sebagh skincare range in 2005, having created the Meaningful Beauty range with Cindy Crawford the year before.

Winning our first beauty award in 2006. To date, Dr Sebagh Advanced Ageing-Maintenance Skin Care has scooped 37 awards (and counting!).

Purchasing the historic Chandos House in 2020 and seeing the Dr Sebagh Clinic relocate to this prestigious address in 2023, with state-of-the-art treatment rooms and event spaces.

Establishing the brand’s registered charity, The Mercury Foundation, in 2018.

PHOTOS: © IVAN WEISS

DR SEBAGH Chandos House 2 Queen Anne St London W1G 9LQ +44 (0)20 7637 0548 drsebagh.com drsebagh

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GBB 2024 —— FASHION

THE CASE FOR

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Good Clothes Fair Pay is a campaign calling for a living wage for the people who make our clothes

FASHION We all know fashion’s impact on the planet, but what are we prepared to do about it? Fashion lover and climate activist DOMINIQUE PALMER shares some ideas

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‘NATURE IS THE ULTIMATE CIRCULAR ECONOMY; SHE RESTOCKS, RENEWS AND REPLENISHES, TAKING WHAT SHE NEEDS BUT GIVING BACK TOO. FASHION SHOULD FOLLOW HER LEAD’ am a climate justice activist and yet I love fashion. Contradiction? Maybe. But I’m calling for a fashion revolution and here’s how we can make it happen. We can reframe our entire approach to fashion by finding joy in discovering our own style and caring for the world around us (join a local climate community!) to slowing down (ourselves and the relentless fashion cycles) and redirecting love towards what’s important (ourselves, our friends and family, society and nature at large) rather than the latest product drop. We can also hold the industry accountable, demanding transparency and support legislation to tackle waste, sustainable production, and fair pay. We all have the power to take these actions. Collectively, that power can be truly monumental and you are never too small or too late to start. We must be mindful of not demonising fashion in its entirety though; it is at its best when it’s inspiring, creative, culturally significant and part of our individuality. However, it’s also tied to money, power and the fossil-fuel industry; it is a mega polluter, with the textile industry generating roughly 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent, or nearly ten percent of world greenhouse-gas emissions. It’s also exploitative to both people and planet, mostly thanks to vast over-production that uses the amount of water that would be needed to fill 37 million Olympic-sized swimming pools annually, and creates vast amounts of waste (the World Bank says that of the total fibres used for clothing, 87 percent ends up in landfill), plus sub-standard worker welfare and low pay. This production overload is underpinned by the marketing and advertising that swims around it, urging us to buy, buy, buy. According to the British Fashion Council, there are already enough clothes on the planet right now to dress the next six generations of people. But we are in a climate crisis, and there has never been a more crucial time for fashion to transform and exist in harmony with nature, not against it. Nature presents herself as the ultimate circular economy,: she restocks, renews, and replenishes, taking what it needs but giving it back too. Fashion should follow her lead. Our approach to fashion can be part of our approach to caring for the environment and there are ripple effects of change that can spread out 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FROM LEFT: Baukjen, Mother of Pearl and Deploy are brands leading the way to fairer fashion

from these actions. A future where we recognise this, and appreciate the beauty and craft that goes into our clothes, is possible. So how to start shifting? The solutions are there. Firstly, upcycling, second-hand shopping and thrifting, which are all taking the style scene by storm. A large part of my wardrobe and some of my most beloved garments are second hand – all in excellent condition. It can inspire us to think more carefully about our pieces, carefully curate our wardrobes, build our personal style and shop mindfully. There are British-based brands and collections supporting a shift to pre-loved, such as Atijo. Created in London and women-led, this collection of exclusively curated vintage designer and artisan products is on a mission to reimagine the vintage aesthetic by circulating more pre-loved clothing, while celebrating culture, diversity and style. Of course, the most sustainable item is the one you already own. Repairing, upcycling, restyling, and taking care of our clothes can spark joy. British brand Sojo specialises in tailoring, alterations and repairs, which can be collected or delivered right to your door – they have a concession in Selfridges too. But what about new clothes and what can existing brands do? In addition to transparency in their supply chains and sustainability from farm to shelf – meaning that the production, processing, distribution, and consumption of fashion is done in a way that is socially and environmentally responsible – fashion must step away from the relentless cycles that are damaging to the planet, workers (such as garment workers) and designers. There are already brands doing it differently. ELV Denim, for example, uses previously rejected deadstock fabric to make jeans (denim is one of the most polluting items of clothing due to its excessive water and chemical use) and is dedicated to creating pieces from 100 percent upcycled materials. Women’s brand Deploy is a very high-scoring certified B Corp that contributes towards 12 of the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals and has achieved a 50 percent carbon reduction within the past three years. Baukjen, too, is an impressive B Corp with another high score that has a Sustainability Index metric that is calculated based on the environmental and social performance of each of its garments. Innovation is playing its part too. There are many wonderfully creative solutions, such as mushrooms. According to the SpringWise report ‘Future Now’, New Fashion Factory’s mycelium-based produce, MycoTex by Neffa takes only a week to grow in a fermentation tank, and does not use harmful chemicals or plastics. It does not need any farmland and uses much less water than traditional fashions. After use, it can be home composted. While we look at new innovations, what more can we do with our own wardrobes? To respect the planet, and the people who make our clothes, before I buy anything I ask myself: what happened to the planet for my clothes? How far did this travel? Has this harmed animals? Who crafted this and farmed the cotton? Luckily, there are British brands already integrating these principles into their brands. Take Mother of Pearl, helmed by creative director COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 93

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‘WHILE FASHION COMPANIES GROW RICH ON A FASTFASHION BUSINESS MODEL FED BY FOSSIL FUELS, THEY DUMP THEIR WASTE AND POLLUTION ON COUNTRIES IN THE GLOBAL SOUTH LEAST EQUIPPED TO DEAL WITH IT’

Amy Powney, who is passionate about every single detail in the process of making clothes. From responsible materials, to animal welfare and care for the people behind the supply chain, Mother of Pearl is a leading light in fashion as a force for good. JPL Atelier also creates beautiful pieces and is focused on ‘empowering women, alongside their muse, Mother Earth’. It prioritises ethical and sustainable fashion, is vegan approved, and is transparent about sustainability throughout its production. While making individual choices is important, the system of fashion ultimately needs reconf iguring, something that many incredible campaigns and activists are tackling. Fossil Fuel Fashion is a new campaign launched by Livia Firth’s Eco-Age, with a focus on the phase-out of oil from the fashion industry with commitments to science-based targets. In support of the campaign, climate activist Vanessa Nakate says: ‘While fashion companies grow rich on a fastfashion business model fed by fossil fuels, they dump their waste and pollution on countries in the Global South least equipped to deal with it.

something. What will you do?

A fast, fair phase-out of fossil fuels from fashion is critical for climate justice.’ Global non-profit Fashion Revolution is also working to change the industry, pushing for transparency in supply chains and highlighting the question ‘Who made my clothes?’ Its campaign Good Clothes, Fair Pay in 2023 was a European Citizens’ Initiative, campaigning for EU living wage legislation for garment workers globally. Additionally, I follow Collective Fashion Justice to learn more about a possible fashion system that is ethical, through prioritising animals, people and our planet before profit. There is so much we can do to support a fashion revolution. Be mindful about the way we shop, demand more from brands, support campaigns – and become activists. One chant we sing at climate protests is, ‘We are unstoppable, another world is possible,’ which we really believe, but it does demand doing

Dominique Palmer is a British climate justice activist, student, speaker, storyteller, writer, and advocate of slow fashion n

PHOTOS: © SOPHIA KIANNI

United Nations youth adviser Sophia Kianni launched campaign ‘We Wear Oil’ during COP 28, to raise awareness of fashion’s use of fossil fuels to make clothing

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EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY 96 EDMISTON 98 EDWARD GREEN 100 E.J. CHURCHILL 102 ELEGANT RESORTS 104

EQUI LONDON 106 ETTINGER 108 FAIRFAX & FAVOR 110 FARRAR & TANNER 112 FAVOURBROOK 116 FENWICK 118

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EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY Handmade garden parasols created to bring joy and colour to people’s lives

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The colourful parasols are inspired by temple umbrellas in Kerala

ast London Parasol Company is founded on relationships. I’ve worked with some of our makers for nearly a decade, and we know each other’s families. I first came across jewel-coloured temple umbrellas when I lived in Kerala, South India. I lived in a tiny, pink house and decorated my unprepossessing terrace with colourful parasols. When I moved back to the UK the parasols came with me. I wanted to create a business that makes people feel cheerful, and the parasols always make everyone smile. I returned to India to find the umbrellamakers, and to see if I could build a business around their joyful creations. We are a craft business, and no part of our production is automated – the dyes for our screen-printed canopies are mixed by hand and eye; the bamboo parasol poles are carved in Bali; our sandstone bases are made in Rajasthan by seventh generation stonemasons; our Balinese fabrics are hand-painted, with no stencils or sketching; our frames are made by carpenters and woodturners. Each piece is made by dedicated artisans, using traditional skills. We produce limited quantities of our designs and each parasol takes several weeks to make. The crafts are timeless, and so, I hope, are our pieces: they are works of art. We don’t follow fashions or trends, or aim to expand into new products. We want to make beautifully crafted parasols that delight our customers, that’s all. We want them to feel the love

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Never second-guess your customers’ taste. We were nervous that our pink,

orange and gold parasols wouldn’t sell, but they flew. ◆ Always strive for the best quality in every single aspect of your business. Never compromise or cut corners. ◆ You are nothing without those who make and buy your products. Treat them with respect and do your best by them. 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘I WANTED TO CREATE A BUSINESS THAT MAKES PEOPLE FEEL CHEERFUL AND HAPPY, AND THE PARASOLS ALWAYS MAKE EVERYONE SMILE’ that has gone into the item they’ve just bought. I’m not a complete Luddite. Of course, we use technology – some of our canopies are digitally printed and we’d be lost without it when it comes to logistics: our wonderful warehouse team assembles each octagonal parasol and sends off our orders. And technology makes seamless delivery to our customers possible.’ Lucy Ferguson, Owner and Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Designing and making our first brightly coloured parasols in 2015 in Kerala, South India with craftspeople whose families had been handmaking art for many, many generations.

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Selling out at the 2016 Wilderness Festival. Meeting the public and hearing how much they loved our parasols was wonderful.

Starting to work with highly skilled Balinese artisans in 2017. Our first parasol, the pink and yellow Whitney, remains one of our most popular products.

Finding some amazingly talented UK carpenters and wood-turners in 2020 to produce our parasol frames in Hampshire. They’re made with sustainable wood. We are delighted to be supporting British enterprise.

Collaborating with Warner House in 2020 to create our best-selling Elizabeth Octagonal Parasol, using an ochre recolour of its classic Balmoral print. Warner House has been making exquisite fabrics since 1870.

EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY eastlondonparasols.com eastlondonparasolco

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EDMISTON The superyacht brokers offering unmatched service

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e are known for selling and chartering yachts, particularly in the 65-70 metre– plus market. We are focused on providing very high levels of service since that’s what people expect when buying very expensive products. We’re personalised in the way that we deliver the whole experience, not just the yachts, but the entire process of booking and planning. The last three years have been very busy for the yacht industry. We’ve had a large number of yachts sold and more charter weeks booked than ever before. Certainly, the demand for big yachts has been very, very high, but growing at such a rate can’t keep going forever. We have offices in London, Monaco, New York, Miami, New Port and Mexico City. So, we are not having some of the classic challenges that, perhaps, British retailers have. When you grow a business, the main difficulties are maintaining a high level of service, keeping your team engaged and focused and, finally, scaling up the brand as you grow. The way the world does business has also changed (for example, banking in regard to large-value transactions). However, we feel confident with where we are. We have a big digital team and a lot of business intelligence that we use. We leverage both data and

Edmiston’s expertise in the sale, charter and management of the world’s largest and most luxurious yachts is unmatched

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The yachting industry can be disappointing, particularly with sales.

◆ The importance of brushing yourself off, getting up and carrying on.

That’s success. ◆ Bring together the best possible team of people. A diverse group of personalities and talents. Different people suit different people.

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our systems to achieve that. We haven’t rolled out AI in any big way, but we will probably use it eventually. Edmiston is a very strong British brand. We are unashamedly focused on delivering a luxury brand proposition to our clients. Alongside this approach, we work with Goodwood, run the Edmiston London Heliport in Battersea, and are major sponsors of Farnborough Airport. So, we are engaged in activities that bring our brand to life and look forward to continuing to do so in 2024.’ Jamie Edmiston, Chief Executive

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Launching the Edmiston brand in 2001.

‘THE DEMAND FOR BIG YACHTS HAS BEEN VERY, VERY HIGH, BUT GROWING AT SUCH A RATE CAN’T KEEP GOING FOREVER’

The opening of the Edmiston London Heliport in 2019, involving a major re-styling of both the interior and exterior of the airport. In early 2022, Edmiston also opened the Edmiston lounge at Farnborough Airport, offering travellers the level of service and comfort as they might receive on an Edmiston’s yacht.

The construction of the world’s most environmentally friendly superyacht; a ground breaking project that was five years in the planning.

The launch of the Edmiston Foundation in 2020, focusing on employment opportunities for young people in the maritime sector and environmental initiatives specifically relating to the ocean. The Foundation has partnered with UKSA and The Conservation Collective.

My investment in Levidian, which cracks methane into hydrogen and carbon, locking the carbon into high-quality green graphene.

EDMISTON +44 (0)20 7495 5151 edmiston.com edmistonyachts

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EDWARD GREEN

Heritage footwear maker continuing to focus on excellence

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e make the very highest standard of English footwear, and if people are looking for shoes and boots made with meticulous attention to detail, they often end up coming to us. We have a very global customer base, selling in over 50 countries last year. The human touch is very important, especially at our end of the market. While our digital presence continues to grow, our customer service is run by our Jermyn Street team who meet with customers face-to-face, understanding their needs and fit. They are not about to be replaced by AI chatbots – our customers want authenticity and genuine knowledge. People want to understand the provenance of what they’re buying; every shoe we make is the fruit of real care and attention. We have a film following a pair of Edward Greens being made. This year we introduced a new style, the Zlin, which highlights the story of John Hlustik, someone akin to a second founder for the business. He fled communist persecution as a child, and went on to introduce the antiqued calfskins we’re known for today. The Zlin was an old sample of John’s and we released it to raise funds for today’s refugees from Ukraine.

Edward Green has been at the forefront of Northampton shoemaking since it launched in 1890

Nothing is more sustainable than making beautiful, functional goods that last and can be repaired. Some pairs come back three or four times to be re-soled, virtually remade. Because leather gains character as it ages, these shoes can be particularly handsome, and they are replete with the owner’s memories and stories. We’re an evolving company, but we’re not suddenly going to be doing something fundamentally different in 2025 or 2026. We’ll continue to bring out new models where we can see real customer interest, and we’ll continue to introduce new textures and leathers. But essentially we’re going to be focused on making beautiful Goodyear welted shoes, to the very best of our abilities, just as we have been for the last century.’ Euan Denholm, Head of Brand and Business Development

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ People appreciate heritage shoemakers like Edward Green because in a time

of flux we make beautiful things which last and are born of a tradition. But to stay ‘timeless’ you still need to evolve. ◆ People are always at the heart of an institution – one needs to constantly develop the team. ◆ Follow the data. 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘PEOPLE WANT TO UNDERSTAND THE PROVENANCE OF WHAT THEY’RE BUYING, EVERY SHOE IS THE FRUIT OF REAL CARE AND ATTENTION’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Reaching the apex of Northampton shoemaking in the 1920s – making house shoes for George V and boots for Ernest Hemingway.

Continuing the tradition of making shoes for Royalty in 1979 when we made the boots for Lord Louis Mountbatten’s ceremonial burial dress.

Being bought by John Hlustik in 1982, which refocused the company’s commitment to making the best footwear. He introduced antiqued calfskins, which continue to be a signature to this day.

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Opening a shop on Jermyn Street in 1992, selling directly to London’s most discerning shoe lovers.

Introducing the Zlin in 2023 – a special-edition model that honours John Hlustik’s own story of fleeing communism and raises funds for today’s refugees from Ukraine.

EDWARD GREEN 75 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6NP +44 (0)20 7839 0202 edwardgreen.com edwardgreen1890

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E.J. CHURCHILL The home of shooting

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ur expert team is committed to delivering top-notch shooting experiences tailored to meet the diverse needs of our customers, from grounds to gun-room, from event organisation to shoot days. This client-centred commitment is the cornerstone of our approach: we strive not only to teach and advise but also to elevate the sport focusing on quality and professionalism, making a lasting impact on the shooting community and enriching the experience for all enthusiasts. Our brand vision is distinct: to excel as the ultimate client-focused partner in the shooting industry. We’re easily accessible and ever-present to clients, ensuring that their needs and aspirations in the shooting world are not only met but exceeded. Direct human engagement is at the heart, particularly in our dedication to customer service. AI’s role is supportive – enhancing administrative efficiency and addressing behind-the-scenes challenges – but it cannot replicate the passion, emotion or relationships cultivated over years. Our brand identity is deeply intertwined with storytelling: we share narratives of our craftsmanship, spotlighting the artisans behind our shotguns, and recount customers’ own unique experiences. Such rich history and tradition foster a special emotional bond with them, beyond what AI can ever accomplish. Te chn o l o g y s tre amlin e s management processes and enhances customer interactions, for example, sending updates through

E.J. Churchill’s two shooting grounds, in Buckinghamshire and North Yorkshire, are known as some of the best in the world, with the service to match

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Be available for clients regardless of time or day. Where others fall short on

service, aim for recognition as the epitome of excellence. ◆ Surround yourself with experts to deliver advice and service of the highest calibre. ◆ Confront problems directly, ensuring the best outcome for clients. Acquiring customers is no small feat – it’s crucial not to let them slip away.

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our WhatsApp channel. Collecting and analysing data deepens our insight into their preferences, so we can deliver a more satisfying personalised experience. Fingers crossed that these efforts meet their expectations! Navigating this terrain comes naturally. Our business hinges on the essence of human connection, both comprehending and excelling at meeting the needs and desires of individual clients. In an everevolving digital world, preserving the human touch is paramount, whether through personalised consultations, exclusive events or unwavering customer support. For us, face-to-face engagement and personal bonds are unequalled in their significance.’ Rob Fenwick, MD

‘WE STRIVE NOT ONLY TO TEACH AND ADVISE BUT ALSO TO ELEVATE THE SPORT, FOCUSING ON QUALITY AND PROFESSIONALISM’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Hosting seven World Championships, including five of the Clay Pigeon Shooting Association (CPSA), the first UK ground to do so.

Earning recognition as ‘world’s best’ from Americans who have dubbed us ‘the home of shooting’. Gratifying indeed as such acclaim was traditionally reserved for events held in the USA.

Over five years, we’ve consistently upheld the spirit of ‘giving back’ by hosting dozens of charitable events. We understand the importance of contributing to the broader community and supporting worthy causes.

Being awarded the CPSA British Championships 2024 at our Yorkshire ground, plus a six-year World Championships deal in Buckinghamshire from 2025, alternating with US grounds.

Cultivating a team that mirrors my enthusiasm, passion, and commitment to exceptional client care.

E.J. CHURCHILL Park Lane, Lane End, Stokenchurch, High Wycombe HP14 3NS +44 (0)1494 883227 ejchurchill.com ejchurchill

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ELEGANT RESORTS Still creating impeccable, personalised travel experiences for a growing clientele, 35 years on

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legant Resorts was established in Chester in 1988 with a very small team – forming the first ever luxury tour operator. We set out to understand the needs of our ultra-high net worth clients, dreaming up incredible bespoke holidays to the Caribbean. In terms of who we are, nothing has changed today, though the competitive landscape is very different – and our trips reach a much wider range of destinations. The more we understand people, the more we absolutely get it right for them. It really is the human touch and relationships that make the difference. Our repeat business is exceptionally high at 80 percent. We’re very focused on the finer details – securing the exact room people want, treating them like VIPs while travelling, getting access to restaurants that nobody can get into or securing tickets to an exclusive event – you can’t do that through technology, and people are blown away if they haven’t travelled with us before. However, technology gives us strong data to understand our clients’ interests and can enhance efficiencies to allow us more time to focus on our clients. We’re using AI in graphic design, web design and as a research tool. But we’d never use it to advise clients, relying instead on our direct experience and considerable knowledge. We’ve sent team members on 50 trips this year and their experiences come through on our live vlogs, blogs and social media – building trust because people can see what we’re actually doing. Our brochures are smaller and more specialised, for example focusing on wellness retreats and products; and instead of a restrictive annual brochure we add hundreds of products to our website annually. Clients are still interested in print, so our magazine, Elegant Traveller, conveys news and destination stories. As a company we do all we can to act responsibly. We’re building up our slow travel with lovely trips including on the Orient-Express – I’m sure the popularity of these is driven by heightened consciousness.’

As the UK’s first luxury tour operator, Elegant Resorts has a deep knowledge of its customers, and the places they want to visit

Lisa Fitzell, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Doing the right thing pays off. During Covid, we amended holidays multiple

times or provided refunds. By 2022 our new business was above 2019 levels. ◆ The key to a successful business is an engaged and happy staff. ◆ Small touches and personalised details are differentiators in luxury travel – even just fast-tracking clients through an airport like a rock star!

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‘PEOPLE ARE BLOWN AWAY IF THEY HAVEN’T TRAVELLED WITH US BEFORE’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Opening our doors in 1988 as the first UK tour operator to specialise in luxury travel. We still offer the highest levels of service and product in the UK travel industry.

The launch of Elegant Journeys in 2019, a collection of over 100 individual itineraries around the world, showcasing unique experiences.

Winning Best Luxury Tour Operator at the British Travel Awards in 2022 – one of the most successful years in our history.

Unveiling our Wellness Collection in 2023, carefully curating 32 of the best wellness resorts and retreats worldwide. These offer a wide range of therapies and treatments: from emotional healing to resultsoriented fitness programmes, ayurveda expertise to mindfulness.

Achieving Travelife Partner Status in 2023 along with the first steps on the journey to B Corp accreditation.

ELEGANT RESORTS Elegant House, Sandpiper Way Chester Business Park Chester CH4 9QE +44 (0)1244 897511 elegantresorts.co.uk elegantresorts

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EQUI LONDON

Replace your shelf of supplements with one that does it all

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bout ten years ago, I came off the contraceptive pill and my skin erupted. I was working in investment banking and found these breakouts really stressful. Having tried several treatments that didn’t work, my close friend, Harley Street nutritional therapist Alice Mackintosh, recommended a range of supplements designed to bring all parts of my body back into balance. Internal imbalances can have a ripple effect, manifesting, for instance, in symptoms like problem skin, low energy and lack of concentration. This approach completely cleared my skin and had a profound effect on my wellbeing. We wondered whether, if we combined the eight products I was taking into an all-in-one solution, we could help people. Our products are complex and still ahead of the curve, even eight years on, so reaching customers in the digital space has been fundamental. It’s not enough for our products to sit on a shelf; we need the story and education around them. AI is a powerful tool for analysing data and feedback, to pick out the trends and see what’s important to people. This helps us engage more people and make sure that we continue to service them in the most valuable way. We also use Fintech for cash flow projections, which has allowed us to expand internationally and work on bringing out new lines, without seeking investment. We unders tand how overwhelming the wellness industry can be and aim to go

Rosie Speight and Alice Mackintosh (left) met at university, and founded Equi London together in 2015

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The importance of hands-on customer service in the digital space; so many

ecommerce brands fall short here and we prioritise this. ◆ Timing and adaptability matter. We’re very flexible and have always pivoted quickly as we’ve grown. ◆ There’s a winning combination in using technology effectively while building a team who wholeheartedly believe in the brand – this will power you forward. 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE WONDERED WHETHER, IF WE COMBINED THE EIGHT PRODUCTS I WAS TAKING INTO AN ALL-IN-ONE SOLUTION, WE COULD REALLY HELP PEOPLE’ above and beyond in helping people feel informed and empowered. Whether it be through the quality of our formulations, customer service or the information we share, I think our customers feel that in every touch point. In the supplement market, there are so many faceless, nameless companies. We’re not: we’re founder-led and really care. We’re on a mission to bring effective supplements to people and we’re passionate about that.’ Rosie Speight, Co-Founder and Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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We were first stocked in Harrods in 2017 and have become one of its best-selling supplement brands.

Being selected as a Walpole Brand of Tomorrow in 2021, and becoming an active member of the British Institute of Luxury community.

This year we set up in the UAE and are working with leading retailers. We are proud to be flying the flag for British quality in the Middle East.

The thousands of customer reviews telling us how lifechanging our formulas are, and how they have become a constant in their lives.

Being selected as the supplement brand in leading women’s wellness clinics and practitioner platforms – it’s a huge stamp of approval to be used by experts.

EQUI LONDON +44 (0)20 7118 1611 equilondon.com equilondon

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ETTINGER

Classic quintessentially British leather goods with global appeal

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lthough we’re a small family business, we export 90 percent of what we make to the US, Japan and Korea, then China and Europe. We launched a new website in 2023 which made a huge difference and our Christmas sales doubled. If you see an Ettinger product alongside an Italian or French one, you can immediately tell that it’s British. Our products are robust and timeless but always with that whimsical twist – the inside of a wallet bright turquoise for example. We ignore trends in favour of classics with that little quirk that people love and products stand the test of time. Our repair service recently took in a 20-year-old wallet, which, once repaired, will last another 20 years. Eighty five percent of what we make is done by hand. Leather is a natural material so you need humans to craft it. Sometimes we run towards technology too fast, as we did when we did away with our print catalogues about four years ago. That was a mistake, but now we’re delighted to have printed a beautiful catalogue showing our products and our history going back to the 1930s with old photos, which people have really enjoyed. The catalogue’s also online but

Founded in 1934, Ettinger is one of Britain’s last remaining luxury leather goods brands

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ My father, who ran the business, taught me always to listen so you never stop

learning. ◆ He had a saying that good decisions come from good experience, but good experience comes from bad decisions. It’s a sort of conundrum, but very true. ◆ There’s no relaxing – it’s essential to be innovative and keep coming up with new ideas and products to survive.

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people prefer sitting down and flicking through it rather than just receiving an email. We meet customers in our Putney showroom where they can put a human face to the brand and though we have no bricksand-mortar shops here, we have plenty of in-store areas. In 2024 we’re launching a luggage collection with accessories like passport covers and more women’s products, like tote bags, jewellery rolls and purses in new colours – pink and “greige”, a lovely mix of grey and beige. We’re also proud to be celebrating our 90th anniversary with events across the year.’ Robert Ettinger, CEO

‘IF YOU SEE AN ETTINGER PRODUCT ALONGSIDE AN ITALIAN OR FRENCH ONE, YOU CAN IMMEDIATELY TELL THAT IT’S BRITISH’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Being granted a Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales in 1990, which gave Ettinger such a seal of approval, quality and trust all over the world.

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Meeting our Japanese distributor in 1995. Now we sell our products in over 100 stores in Japan.

Opening our first stand-alone shops in Tokyo in 2013. Now we have two, with one more due to open soon. Opening up a retail website in 2010, which has grown year on year and become a very important part of the business.

Starting our corporate gifting arm in 2017, which has become enormously popular as we’re able to make bespoke products in colours to suit brands and to put their logos on them and on their boxes.

ETTINGER 215 Putney Bridge Road London SW15 2NY +44 (0)20 8877 1616 ettinger.co.uk ettinger.london

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FAIRFAX & FAVOR

Timeless footwear and fashion, designed for the great outdoors

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en years ago, when we went to places like the Burghley Game & Country Fair or the Badminton Horse Trials there was only a choice of wearing practical but not very goodlooking footwear like wellingtons, or something slightly trendy that didn’t survive the mud. We saw a gap in the market: just because you’re in the country doesn’t mean you can’t look good. That was the initial problem we were solving. Now we are a footwear and lifestyle brand bridging the gap between town and country by selling shoes for every occasion. We still exhibit at country and equestrian shows, and although they are a small percentage of our brand, in a way they are our flagship. It’s such an important touch point as somewhere customers can speak to our staff, look at new products and know that they will always be welcome. We believe in that crucial one-to-one – even for customer service queries because I’ve yet to find a technology system that doesn’t irritate people; you can just tell when you’re talking to a chatbot who only has five standard sentences and doesn’t answer the question. Where analytics do help us is in monitoring bestsellers and customer favourites, both which are monumental in the creation of new products: feedback is at the forefront of most decisions. They are also useful in identifying buyer patterns – a key factor in progressing internationally as it means that we can pinpoint target markets. We are also very active on

Stylish footwear you can wear in both town and country has won Fairfax & Favor many awards over its decade in business

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ People are the most important part of any business – having the

right people is everything. ◆ Cash really is king. A lack of profit will kill a company in a few years but a lack of cash will kill it today. ◆ If you don’t have repeat customers, you basically don’t have a business. That’s why good service is so important. 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WHEN IT COMES TO SHOPPING, NOTHING BEATS A PERSONAL ONE-ON-ONE EXPERIENCE. ULTIMATELY, OUR STORYTELLING IS THROUGH PEOPLE’ social media and part of that is our dedicated Facebook club which has over 62,000 members. During the pandemic it really came into its own as a great way to connect with and be part of a community during an isolating time. When it comes to shopping though, nothing beats a personal one-on-one experience. Ultimately, our storytelling is through people.’ Marcus Fairfax Fountaine, Co-Founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Receiving our first 420 pairs of off-the-shelf loafers in 2013 from a factory in Spain.

Our first show at the Holkham Country Fair in 2013, when we sold 80 pairs of shoes – enough to cover our costs and pay for a pitch at the next fair.

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Winning the Drapers magazine Footwear Awards in 2023 for Best Use of Social Media.

Our first US trade show in America in 2023, when attending the Kentucky Horse Trials, helped to cement our place in the US market; it was great to hear positive feedback from customers.

Being listed on the Sunday Times Fast Track list in 2023. It means so much to be recognised for our achievements over the past ten years, and makes us even more driven to continue that growth into the next decade.

FAIRFAX & FAVOR Narford Hall, Kings Lynn Norfolk PE32 1JA +44 (0)1760 338199 fairfaxandfavor.com fairfaxandfavor

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FARRAR & TANNER

Quality, personalised gifts that will be treasured for years to come

A‘

s Farrar & Tanner moves into its eighth year, we stay faithful to our founding principles: we provide quality, personalised gifts that will be treasured for years to come and even be handed down as heirlooms. Today our range covers gifts to make every occasion that much more special – from birthdays and anniversaries to weddings and christenings – always with our signature insistence on quality. Quality is key – people want to give premium gifts that will endure. Delighting customers means that they repeatedly return to us for all their gifts. They’ll never find plastic gadgets – all pieces are designed to last and made with pride by British and European manufacturers, including prestigious brands like Robert Welch, Barbour, Forge de Laguiole and Dartington Crystal. With 4,000 items online, AI helps manage a complex range: for example, we have trained ChatGPT to write item listings in our distinctive tone of voice. But we pride ourselves on preserving the human touch that you would expect from a personalised gift business. Personalisation is by definition personal – a unique message enhances a beautiful or genuinely practical item, ensuring a

Stuck for a gift idea? Farrar & Tanner solves the problem with its highly curated selection of stylish presents for all occasions

cherished and memorable gift. At our destination Cheltenham showroom, customers see and feel the quality and can walk out with their personalised item. But our mainstay of online orders equally requires the human touch: dedicated people you can talk to by phone, precisioncrafted personalisation of each hand-wrapped gift, and swift worldwide dispatch. Speed and time are of the essence – there’s little worse than a late gift. Everyone forgets birthdays or special occasions, so orders are often last-minute; by engraving or embossing in-house, with next-day delivery every day, we make the day special and delight the customer. And our Concierge Club is a gentle reminder for next time.’ Matt Farrar and Richard Tanner, Co-Founders

WHAT WE’VE LEARNT... ◆ Quality is key for gifts that will endure: items that are well-designed and made

to last. ◆ Personalisation is personal: dedicated service with the human touch, whether by phone or in skilled engraving of each hand-wrapped gift. ◆ Speed is essential: customers want things quickly, often ordering last minute. Personalising on-site, with next-day delivery seven days a week, keeps customers happy. 112 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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In 2016, Matt Farrar and Rich Tanner launched the brand with a focus on personalised premium gifts.

The year 2021 saw Farrar & Tanner showcase over 100 innovative and celebrated British and European brands on its website.

Concierge Club launched in 2022, with exclusive membersonly offers and benefits, including the popular birthday and anniversary reminder service.

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In 2023 it opened the doors of the first Farrar & Tanner showroom in Cheltenham, welcoming customers in person.

By 2023 the company had proudly passed the milestone of delivering 250,000 gifts – and counting.

FARRAR & TANNER 24 Lansdown Estate Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL51 8PL +44 (0)3445 678365 farrar-tanner.co.uk farrartanner

‘A UNIQUE MESSAGE ENHANCES A BEAUTIFUL OR GENUINELY PRACTICAL ITEM, ENSURING A CHERISHED AND MEMORABLE GIFT’

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GBB 2024 —— DRINKS

theLIST

Seven British Celebrities Making Booze Who's making terrific tipples, asks MARTHA DAVIES

IDRIS ELBA

Alongside his exploits on the silver screen, Idris Elba has teamed up with French wine connoisseur David Farber to produce Porte Noire. Browse the brand’s selection of champagne and rosé, or pay a visit to the Porte Noire Restaurant and Wine Bar in King’s Cross if you’re after a drink in the Capital. portenoire.co.uk

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GRAHAM NORTON

Graham Norton isn’t just a national treasure – he’s also the brains behind an award-winning New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, created in collaboration with Invivo Wines. Following the success of this particular tipple, Graham has now expanded his empire to include pink and Irish dry gins as well as an Italian prosecco, a South Australian Shiraz and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc rosé. invivo wines.com

CARA, CHLOE & POPPY DELEVINGNE

On the lookout for some vegan booze? Try Della Vite, an award-winning, sustainably-sourced prosecco produced by the Delevingne sisters in collaboration with a winemaking family in Valdobbiadene, Italy. If you’re partial to something pink, opt for their newly launched rosé. dellavite.com

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ELLIE GOULDING

Another pop powerhouse in the booze industry is Ellie Goulding, who co-owns hard seltzer and canned cocktail brand Served. Pre-mixed tipples aren’t just for picnics – and these ones use wonky fruit to help reduce food waste. serveddrinks.co.uk

RITA ORA

Tequila fiends will love Próspero Tequila, a delectable spirit created by Rita Ora and Stella Anguiano, one of Mexico’s premier female Master Distillers. The British pop star has also pioneered her own cocktail recipe combining Próspero Blanco tequila with strawberries, balsamic vinegar, orange liqueur, lime juice and honey. prosperotequila.com

EMMA WATSON

Recently launched by Emma Watson and her brother Alex is Renais Gin, a carbon neutral spirit made using repurposed wine grapes. It was inspired by childhood trips to Domaine Watson, the Watson family vineyard in Burgundy, which has been run by Emma and Alex’s father for over 30 years. The gin is cultivated in France and distilled in England, bringing together both sides of the family’s heritage. renais.co.uk

GARY BARLOW

Certified organic grapes are the star of the show when it comes to Gary Barlow’s own wine label. Choose between his red, white and rosé bottlings, or check out the brand's two new offerings: sauvignon blanc and sauvignon blush. Crack open a bottle at your next dinner party – the ideal accompaniment to some Take That tunes, of course. garybarlowwines.com

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GBB 2024 —— F

FAVOURBROOK

Gorgeous clothes to dress up in and elevate your mood

‘W

hen anyone asks how business has been in 2023, the simple answer is that everyone is dressing up again. No matter what’s going on in people’s lives, human beings just love getting dressed up. Classic sartorial style brings people together. It creates a collective buzz. It’s strange, but the most excited room you’ll ever be in will contain 200 people all dressed in black tie! There’s a real appetite for getting away from beige. People want to have fun and my clothes elevate people out of the mundane and put a smile on their faces. Women display their character via clothes and our absolutely beautiful fabrics make them feel great. With men it’s all about the details. We shot our latest campaign in Rome with a model who looked like Bryan Ferry crossed with American Gigolo, dressed in a velvet jacket, bowtie and a denim shirt and jeans – classic convention with a twist, which is what we’re about. We have 1,700 men’s waistcoats and I love it when foreigners come in and say, “OMG, I didn’t even know something like this existed.” We also have close to a 1,000 bow ties in store and sold over 2,000 last year. There’s a lot of kit to choose from, which is why great service is so essential and ours stands apart from everyone else’s. When it comes to AI, I’m not sure I even know what it is, nor do I care. What I care about is Favourbrook, which is a 15-person

Designed with panache, and crafted from the best fabrics, Favourbrook occasionwear stands apart from the crowd

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Being a good shopkeeper is the most important thing. ◆ Quality is what

I spend my life trying to achieve in every aspect of my life and work. ◆ You catch more bees with honey than with a stick.

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‘NO MATTER WHAT’S GOING ON IN PEOPLE’S LIVES, HUMAN BEINGS JUST LOVE GETTING DRESSED UP’ micro business. It’s the first business I started and it’s been a non-stop love affair. We stay small to be the best shopkeepers in a lovely environment. Our customer could be 21 or 81 because our clothes are ageless, beautiful and fun, and put a smile on everyone’s face. They’re all about elevation.’ Oli Spencer, founder and CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Opening our first dedicated retail space in London’s Piccadilly Arcade in 1990, specialising in silk waistcoats and formalwear accessories.

When Four Weddings and a Funeral featured one of our hand-painted waistcoats in 1994. Our styles subsequently soared, galvanising the business.

3 4 5

Launching our first women’s collection in 1994, focusing on silk and velvet coats, jackets and dresses. With a fast-growing client base, opening a new flagship store in 2017, pride of place on London’s Pall Mall.

Becoming an Official Licensee for Menswear for Royal Ascot in 2020 and producing an inaugural Royal Ascot collection to mark the partnership.

FAVOURBROOK 17 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5LU +44 (0)20 7493 5060 favourbrook.com favourbrook

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FENWICK

The largest, family-owned group of luxury department stores in the UK

‘S

tyle pioneers since 1882, Fenwick has a curated edit of luxury across lifestyle, fashion and beauty in its stores and digital. In beauty, we collaborate with our brand partners to create experiences that engage customers. This can be anything from talking to an expert salesperson at a counter to professional make-up artist events or forums with brand founders. Hospitality is hugely important so we heavily invest in people in our beauty halls; having a human touch point is something we feel extremely strongly about. Beauty can be bought anywhere but our customers want trusted advice from an authority. Our Newcastle flagship, where the beauty hall is having a complete overhaul as part of a wider investment programme, has the biggest footprint in the northeast. It covers all beauty needs from make-up to fragrance and skincare, and stocks names such as Chanel alongside niche hardto-find, founder-led brands like Cellcosmet and Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The latter creates a point of difference for customers and a sense of exploration. Visiting any of our stores should feel both exciting and welcoming, like coming over the threshold of a Fenwick family home. AI is at the forefront of many beauty brands. Some

Fenwick has been a beloved and trusted destination for luxury shopping since 1882

are investing in smart tech – whether it’s for facial scanning to understand skincare needs, or a scalp diagnostics tool – but it needs to be backed up with a knowledgeable team member who acts like a concierge, going out of their way to source whatever a customer desires. Nothing is too much trouble: we strive for a level of personal service and hospitality that is often only seen in the most exclusive environments. We’re at the heart of community in each of our locations and we always focus on creating an exciting offering with an unmatched in-store experience.’

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ I now know to trust my intuition when it comes to both people and taking

on a new brand partner. ◆ The importance of taking time to pause, and be inspired by the world around me. ◆ You are only as good as your team.

PHOTOS: © ANDREW MEREDITH

Hazel Ayers, Beauty Buying and Merchandising Director

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launching our first ever ad campaign, in September 2023, with the tagline ‘Quiet No More’, reaching out to a new generation who want to engage with authentic brands.

2 3 4

Having her late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II open Fenwick Bracknell in 2018.

In 2022 the brand marked 140 years of Fenwick – it was a year of celebration.

PHOTOS: © ANDREW MEREDITH

John James Fenwick opening the first store in Newcastle in 1882. Since the beginning the department store has had a commitment to luxury and quality that continues to this day.

‘WE HEAVILY INVEST IN PEOPLE IN OUR BEAUTY HALLS; HAVING

Launching a multi-year partnership with Newcastle United FC in December 2023, which will celebrate the community of Newcastle, its creativity, talent and passion.

A HUMAN TOUCH POINT IS SOMETHING WE FEEL EXTREMELY STRONGLY ABOUT’

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Ready for your next chapter? From city lights to country walks, we’re here for where life takes you.

Your partners in property

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GHI GBB 2024

THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY 122 GP & J BAKER 124 GROUNDTRUTH 126 HARRODS ESTATES 128 HEIRLOOMS 130 HELEN GREEN DESIGN STUDIO 132

HIGHCLERE THOROUGHBRED RACING 134 HOLLAND COOPER 136 HOLLAND & HOLLAND 138 THE HOUSE OF BRUAR 146 ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS 148

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THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY

Scotland’s oldest working distillery balancing tech advances with tradition

‘T

he Glenturret is handmade single malt Scotch whisky, which we create using traditional methods. It’s very niche, boutique and rare. Sometimes we don’t put our whisky out, because it’s not yet ready. So, we’re not led by finance, we’re not led by marketing, we’re led by the product, our whisky. Our brand sought to fill the gap for a genuinely scarce liquid that just stayed true to its capabilities. There are lots of brands like that, in particular in the watch industry – you can name some brands like Vacheron or Patek, for example – but that didn’t exist in the single

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

In 2020 we relaunched the brand during Covid, at a time when many brands were delaying their launches. Our lot for The Distillers’ One of One charity auction in 2021 reached £37.5k, establishing us as a rare and collectible item.

malt market, certainly not in the luxury single malt space. For the 300,000 litres of alcohol a year that we make, we employ double the amount of people that a distillery making three million litres of alcohol employs, because we’re using traditional methods. The development of AI is superinteresting. We see some helpful applications on the sales side, but would never use it in production. Because we use traditional methods, we don’t have any computer automation or sensors in the distillery, instead we invest in human interaction. So, we don’t currently use AI at the moment, but I definitely see technology helping us deliver more of what our customers want in the future, with data-crunching and analysing insights. Storytelling, so important in single malt Scotch, is a great example of where there would be difficulties using AI. Storytelling is almost as important as the quality of the liquid. Actually, writing the story takes the longest time in our new brand creation. Sitting and drinking a whisky, and retelling great stories is part of the allure. Being Scotland’s oldest working distillery – dating from 1763 – and all the stories that come with that, is a great sales tool. The stories really excite people.’

The Glenturret by Lalique Restaurant was awarded a Michelin Star in 2022, within seven months of opening. It was the first distillery worldwide to achieve this ultimate accolade.

We launched our 50-yearold single malt in 2022, the oldest, rarest release to date. Getting whisky to that age is no mean feat, especially when you only have one cask. An exciting moment when that cask crossed the 50-year marker.

Glenturret Triple Wood 2022 achieved 99/100 at the International Wine and Spirits Competition. Our most affordable whisky being voted the best whisky in the world was incredible.

The Glenturret was inspired by luxury Swiss watch brands in its journey to create rare, handmade whisky

THE GLENTURRET The Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire PH7 4HA +44 (0)1764 656565 theglenturret.com theglenturretwhisky

John Laurie, Managing Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Luxury is about detail and the care given to the product and customer

service, right through to delivery. Every tiny step of the journey has to be meticulously thought out. ◆ In a digital age, relationships still matter. ◆ Don’t underestimate the customer. Nowadays they are educated about the brand and the industry, making it more important than ever to be honest and transparent. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 123

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GP & J BAKER

An illustrious past and an outstanding archive of textiles, prints and patterns

‘W

e are entering a new phase in our business in which there is more scope than ever to create exciting new work. Technological developments, invitations to collaborate with the best brands and organisations – including Pooky Lighting and Historic Royal Palaces, a seemingly inexhaustible archive that dates from the 1700s but which has remained relevant and open to different interpretations – and an audience that is more receptive and adventurous, are propelling us onwards and upwards. Our focus has always been on producing decorative work that is timeless, adaptable, transcends periods and styles, and never loses its refinement. Trends and fads come and go, so the aim is to design something that defies definition, something that might well borrow from the past, is created in the present, and will endure well into the future. Our history is an invaluable source of inspiration. We frequently go through the textile, print and rug pattern archives to see what we can use as the basis of a new collection or product. Last October, we launched our Gertrude wallpaper, which was based on a late 17th-century crewelwork embroidered bed hanging by Abigail Pett and later redrawn

GP & J Baker’s vast archive provides endless inspiration for its timeless fabrics and wallpapers

by Gertrude Jekyll for GP & J Baker. We’d looked at this for years, but it seemed too whimsical. Now it’s exactly what people are after, and we will be expanding this print to include a printed velvet and decorative linen textile. Technology is indispensable, something that enables us carry out every aspect of our business – from researching patterns and designing to printing and communicating with suppliers – more efficiently. We are not yet making optimum use of AI, but fully expect to. It’s not a case of this or that, of either or, but of all coming together to help make GP & J Baker even bigger and stronger. Ann Grafton, Managing and Creative Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Your heritage is your core so use it to inspire and shape your future.

◆ To succeed you need to be resilient and versatile. Always believe that there

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‘OUR FOCUS HAS ALWAYS BEEN ON PRODUCING DECORATIVE WORK THAT IS TIMELESS, ADAPTABLE, TRANSCENDS PERIODS, AND NEVER LOSES ITS REFINEMENT’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1884, brothers George Percival and James Baker bought the silk printing works and archive – some dating from 1750 – of Kent-based Swaisland and founded GP & J Baker.

GP & J Baker’s beautiful ferns design was launched in 1935 and has been in continuous production ever since. You’ll see it in all colours on our wallpapers, cushions, fabrics and more.

In 1982, GP & J Baker received a Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth II for providing wallpapers and fabrics to the Royal Household. It’s an accolade we cherish.

The V&A Museum celebrated GP & J Baker’s 100-year anniversary in 1984 with an exhibition of archival documents and textiles. We felt very honoured to be recognised in this way.

Our collaboration with fashion retailer H&M in 2018 was an amazing departure, which helped us introduce our brand to a new demographic. We’re looking forward to more partnerships.

GP & J BAKER Chelsea Harbour Dr London SW10 0XE +44 (0)1202 266700 gpjbaker.com gpjbaker

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GROUNDTRUTH

A cutting-edge brand, challenging the status quo through groundbreaking product design, innovation and storytelling

‘G

ROUNDTRUTH evolved over a decade of creating hardhitting documentary films, grounded in investigative journalism and relationship building, while capturing stories from some of the world’s most challenging environments. Working as filmmakers, my sisters and I witnessed first hand the plastic pollution crisis in the most remote locations on Earth. With our shared deep-rooted drive to create meaningful change, we founded GROUNDTRUTH in 2017 and set out to tackle one of the most polluting and unethical industries in the world – while creating design-led, resilient products, built to thrive from the great outdoors to the boardrooms of New York. My sisters and I share a lifetime of travel experience, which laid the foundation of a design philosophy built for the modern day explorer. Our high performance product range is designed to stand the test of time, and built from our bespoke 100 percent recycled textiles, made from GRS certified post-consumer waste. Utilising our experience as investigative filmmakers, we have spent over four years building a unique supply chain ecosystem of partners, who share our ethos to create our ethical and sustainable materials and manufacturing. The human-to-human relationship is pivotal, it’s built into everything that we do across our supply chain.

GroundTruth was founded by sisters and documentary filmmakers, Georgia, Nina and Sophia Scott, with the aim of making a positive difference to the world

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Building a start-up business is a mountainous task and takes resilience,

perseverance, hard work and at times what feels like madness. ◆ I have learnt never to underestimate the power of instinct. Trust your gut. ◆ I only really have three rules that I live by and ask of others; be kind, be respectful and work hard.

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At the heart of GROUNDTRUTH is the belief that through partnerships and team work, we can make a stronger and more positive impact on communities and our planet. Our patentpending captured CO2 emissions hardware, the GT-OCO-CO2®, propels GROUNDTRUTH to the forefront of green innovation and unlocks the door into the new and emerging world of carbon capture. Our unconventional origins have formed the foundation of a way of doing business that is naturally open, transparent and places people and planet central to our purpose. GROUNDTRUTH hopes to evolve the industry while creating long lasting impact from within. Georgia Scott, co-founder and CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Field-testing our products in Antarctica in 2019 with renowned polar explorer Robert Swan OBE, the first man to walk to both North and South Poles.

2 3

Launching at London Fashion Week in 2019 within the Positive Fashion exhibition alongside other purpose-led design businesses.

Our first range, RIKR, won the Dezeen Award for Best Design by the public vote in the wearable design category, as well as winning Gold at the Good Design Awards 2020.

Developing our patent-pending GT-OCO-CO2® hardware, a first-of-its-kind formula where we embed captured CO2 emissions with recycled polypropylene, exhibiting the direct utilisation of captured CO2 emissions within end products.

5 ‘GROUNDTRUTH IS A COMPANY ROOTED IN GOOD, AND WAS FOUNDED TO TACKLE ONE OF THE MOST POLLUTING INDUSTRIES IN THE WORLD’

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Launching in September 2023 in the iconic London department store Harrods, positioning GROUNDTRUTH at the forefront of accessory design.

GROUNDTRUTH groundtruth.global groundtruth.global +44 (0)7810 368089 Available on the lower ground floor luggage department at Harrods

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GBB 2024 —— H

HARRODS ESTATES Estate agents with the discretion and exclusivity expected of the Harrods name

‘H

arrods Estates is a specialist estate agency with a unique portfolio of properties in super-prime areas of central London, including Knightsbridge, Mayfair, Kensington and Chelsea, as well as overseas. What sets us apart from other estate agents is our position within the Harrods Group; the globally renowned historic store in London’s Knightsbridge has long been the benchmark for luxury, exclusivity and trusted discretion for a worldwide high-end clientele. Those same values set the tone for how we’ve done business since 1897; the Harrods reputation precedes us, and we work hard to earn it in our property relationships. With just two branches and a dedicated space in the store, we’re not a chain: we focus on high-value, not high volume. If technology can help, we use it, but personal relationships are paramount. Trust, discretion and confidentiality are our watchwords and we handle many properties off-market. Whether you are searching for a primary residence, pied-à-terre or investment property, we offer unparalleled local expertise and discretion for an international array of clients. From large apartments in luxurious purpose-built buildings to historic townhouses overlooking garden squares, Harrods Estates will help find, sell or let your perfect London property. As part of the Harrods Group we can provide a wealth of additional services to vendors, purchasers,

Harrods Estates offers an all-encompassing property service for its international clients

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Build relationships for the long term so that our customers feel valued

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landlords, tenants and developers: translators from across the world, Russian and Middle East desks, top-to-toe property management, asset management services to residential developments, interior design consultants and personal shopping services. You can even access chartered helicopters to view potential London properties. Harrods Estates has also long enjoyed a trusted association with the Royal Albert Hall, one of the UK’s most treasured buildings, held in trust for the nation and managed by a registered charity. Over many years we have applied our valued discretion in the sale and acquisition of stall seats and private boxes.’ Shaun Drummond, Sales Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The founding of Harrods Estates in 1897 to assist Harrods store customers with their property needs. In 2022, we proudly celebrated 125 years in business.

‘THE HARRODS REPUTATION PRECEDES US, AND WE WORK HARD TO EARN IT’

In 1944 our offices were demolished by a V1 ‘doodlebug’ flying bomb. After a temporary move to Hans Crescent, not a single day of work was lost.

Returning to Brompton Road in 2001, after many more moves, this time to Number 82, directly opposite the Harrods store and just yards from the original premises.

4 5

Opening our second Harrods Estates office in 2005 at Mayfair’s 61 Park Lane, adjacent to The Dorchester hotel.

Last year proved to be a very successful year with the highest value transactions since the pandemic, including several deals at the prestigious Peninsula Hotel, Hyde Park Corner, a sign of the resurgent ‘Knightsbridge Effect’.

HARRODS ESTATES 82 Brompton Road, London SW3 1ER +44 (0)20 7225 6506 harrodsestates.com harrodsestates

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HEIRLOOMS

Bespoke linens created with care and expertise

‘I

ve been running Heirlooms for 14 years now, and I’m still in the honeymoon phase. There’s something very rewarding and meaningful about going into work knowing you are employing extremely skilled craftspeople to manufacture really great products in the most sustainable way possible right here in the UK. Heirlooms offers bespoke bed linens, table linens, towels, bathrobes, cushions, blankets and throws, and a selection of everyday accessories. Our core business is with private residences, palaces, yachts and private jets, but online retailing, through our website, has boosted our consumer client base. We don’t sell through retail stores, simply because we believe in the personal approach with our clients in giving them the best advice for their needs, so we continue to do everything in-house. The fabric we source is woven in the finest Italian mills and then brought to our factory in West Sussex to be made into our bespoke linens. Much of our work is done by hand – we still table cut, for instance – but to assist expansion, we ordered custom-built cutting and embroidery machines that have made us more time-efficient. Our Royal Warrant from King Charles III, when he was the Prince of Wales, was largely awarded because of our commitment to working sustainably in ways that benefit people and the planet, so we are stringent in assessing the practices of our suppliers. Technology certainly helps our production and admin run

Heirlooms’ luxury linens are made in the UK from the finest materials, without compromise

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... tactics and then move ahead decisively. ◆ Nurture a culture of positivity and collaboration within your business and always strive for continual improvements. The rewards will follow. ◆ Be passionate. Always do your best and don’t allow a ‘this will do’ attitude to creep into your business.

PHOTOS: © BRITTAN GOETZ

◆ Running a business is like a game of chess: you assess the risks, devise

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‘OUR ROYAL WARRANT FROM KING CHARLES, WHEN HE WAS PRINCE OF WALES, WAS LARGELY AWARDED BECAUSE OF OUR COMMITMENT TO WORKING SUSTAINABLY’ more smoothly, but we remain true to our founding principles to provide a highly personal service. Our reputation is built on expertise, judgement and building relationships with people who understand that exceptional bed linens not only finish off a room beautifully, but also enhance the quality of their sleep. Not even the most intelligent AI can compete with that.’ Ruth Douglas, Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Gaining a Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth II in 2005, and another from Charles, then Prince of Wales, in 2012. Both acknowledge our high service and quality.

Acquiring our new building in 2016, which was a highpoint and gave our skilled fabric cutters the space they needed, and also provided a home for our vast fabric collection.

Expanding our global reach beyond Europe in 2019 when we appointed our first partner in Australia. It was a hugely exciting development.

Celebrating our 40th anniversary in 2023. That’s four decades of remaining committed to producing linens of exceptional quality and lasting beauty by using the best fabrics and craftspeople.

5 PHOTOS: © BRITTAN GOETZ

Collaborating with the designer India Hicks in 2023 on Warm Harbour, a collection of bed linens, decorative cushions and accessories. It launched in December.

HEIRLOOMS LINENS 2 Arun Business Park, Bognor Regis West Sussex PO22 9SX +44 (0)1243 820252 heirlooms-linens.com heirloomslinens

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HELEN GREEN DESIGN STUDIO Creating timeless, livable luxury interiors

‘W

e design homes, not houses; mostly for families and very specific to their personal needs and requirements. To design a home, at the earliest stage, we connect through the personal touch: listening, understanding human nature, reading between the lines, asking questions as designers, learning a family’s history, identifying future plans. From this information, we create something new they will feel comfortable in. It’s about telling a family’s life story through interiors, incorporating discovered details into a beautiful design: say, a thistle inspired detail, embroidered on a napkin, recalling a childhood summer in Scotland. We can also narrate their future too, enabling their aspirations; how they want to live their life, who they want to be. Show me the robot that can analyse human desires and dreams; at the high end, design of a well-curated interior is personal and intuitive. We have recently designed homes in Australia, Dubai, Qatar, USA, Austria and France. Our driving passion is residential, but even hotel suites act as second homes, with travellers adjusting their plans to book their favourite room. For people who admire the British aesthetic, which has always encompassed artefacts

The studio creates homes, not houses, that start with the people who will be living in them

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Collaboration amplifies creativity, yielding designs that resonate universally.

We love seeing shared creative ideas become reality. ◆ Adaptability is our linchpin so we embrace change, ensuring designs remain fluid, relevant, aligned with trends, yet timeless for years to come. ◆ Client alchemy: deep connections with clients are our lifeblood.

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from around the world – inspired by the idea of a Grand Tour – we champion a wealth of superb UK craftsmanship in our timeless classic interiors. AI won’t go away, so we embrace and encourage its use. Imagegenerating software can inspire; we can say, ‘reimagine this chair, but made of ice’. By producing images that are unimaginable, busy designers stimulate their creativity. And AI helps with admin and correspondence, so we stay focused on design and service. With eight of us, nothing slips through the cracks, service remains the same level for every client, but the personal connection always endures; relationships can last years, as we become part of the family.’ Alexandra Jurkiewicz, Studio Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Genesis in 2002, a symphony of creativity at the studio’s inception, when Helen Green embarked on a mission to redefine luxury in interior design.

2 3

Our first exclusive furniture collection launched in 2010, transcending trends and elevating interiors.

Being embraced within the Allect Group in 2018 represented a pivotal moment and a transformative acquisition, propelling us into a new era of innovation and expanded horizons.

Our successful completion of multiple international projects (in over ten countries) in 2021 was a global triumph, cementing the studio’s mark on the global stage.

Today our brand stands stronger than ever, a testament to our relentless pursuit of excellence and the enduring impact of our designs on the world of interior aesthetics.

‘SHOW ME THE ROBOT THAT CAN ANALYSE HUMAN DESIRES AND ASPIRATIONS… DESIGN OF A WELL-CURATED INTERIOR IS PERSONAL AND INTUITIVE’

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HELEN GREEN 29 Milner Street London SW3 2QD +44 (0)20 7352 3344 helengreendesign.com hgdstudio

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GBB 2024 —— H

HIGHCLERE THOROUGHBRED RACING

Innovative and highly successful racehorse owners’ syndicates

‘W

hen we started in 1992, Highclere was the first company offering shares in commercial syndicates in British racing. Until then, syndicates had generally been composed of groups of friends who owned a horse together. We were lucky enough to get off to a cracking start in 1993 with Lake Coniston, a sprinter bought for £22,000 and sold after a successful racing career for £2,500,000. There are two keys to the business: one is buying the right horse at the right price. This is a skill which demands judgement and eye, attributes born of long experience of horses. It is old-fashioned judgement of horses which underpins our business. The other key is providing an exceptional service to our clients. We are a luxury goods business and Highclere acts as a personal racing manager to every shareholder of each syndicate. We set out to provide as much information to our syndicate members as possible: training updates, running plans and then, after the race, reports from the trainer and jockey on how the horse performed and its prospects for the future. Everything we do is designed to make shareholders’ involvement more fun and more fulfilling. The majority of our syndicates offer a five percent share in a horse, so have 20 shareholders but we also offer some smaller syndicates.

Highclere’s syndicates offer the opportunity for everyone to get involved in – and enjoy the thrill of – racing as an owner

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Never compromise on quality. ◆ The permanent importance of faultless

integrity. ◆ The need to protect the brand at all times.

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‘IT IS OLD-FASHIONED JUDGEMENT OF HORSES THAT UNDERPINS OUR BUSINESS’ The majority of our 70-odd horses run on the flat, the remainder over the jumps. Integrity and transparency are central to Highclere: we produce certified syndicate accounts so that shareholders can see how every penny is spent. The horses are shared out between about 20 top-class trainers, spread all over the country, with whom we work to place the horses in the races which will give each individual its best chance of winning.’ Harry Herbert, Chairman & Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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Petrushka’s victory for Highclere in the Irish Oaks in 2000 was the first Classic race won by a horse owned by a commercial syndicate.

When Motivator won the race in 2005 he was the first Epsom Derby winner to have been bought and managed by a racehorse syndicate company.

Highclere became the first commercial syndicate to own the world’s highest-rated racehorse when Harbinger achieved that status in 2010.

4 5

When Cachet won the 2022 1,000 Guineas, she was the first horse owned by a racehorse syndicate company to win an English Classic.

Highclere’s first Royal Ascot victory was Heritage in 1997, trained by John Gosden and ridden by Frankie Dettori.

HIGHCLERE THOROUGHBRED RACING LIMITED Great Farm Barns, West Woodhay Berkshire RG20 0BP +44 (0)1488 669166 highclereracing.co.uk highclereracing

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GBB 2024 —— H

HOLLAND COOPER Exquisite tailoring, and a talent for combining country style with city chic has built a brand made to last

‘I

can scarcely believe how far Holland Cooper has come since I started it in 2008. I’d been going to circuit events for years, but had never found anything flattering or youthful to wear so it struck me that there was a huge gap in the market waiting to be filled. I booked a two-metre stand at the Badminton Horse Trials, had 20 or so tweed miniskirts made and watched as they quickly sold out. Over the past five years, growth has been exponential – even during the pandemic we grew by more than 100 percent. We also went ahead with the planned opening of our flagship store, in 2021. Since then we have introduced more new departments, including homeware, childrenswear and menswear, and sales in the US have grown by 73 percent in the last year alone. I don’t think we’d be where we are today had we not made the best use of technology from the beginning. Our online presence in every respect, from social media and e-commerce to handling feedback and delivery, is first class. It has to be with

Holland Cooper started when Jade (pictured) spotted a gap in the market for stylish country clothing

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Don’t be shy to ask for advice or help. The worst that can happen

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a premium business like ours. Technology, in the form of digital media coverage, also means that celebrity or royal endorsements reach the public immediately. Any photograph of the Princess of Wales wearing Holland Cooper has an instant impact. Online sales soar, and footfall in our stores often increases. I want the Holland Cooper brand to be a world leader, and I will utilise every tool available to ensure that happens. In time, this might include avatar technology that will enable customers to try on outfits virtually. It’s about giving customers the best experience. The future is here even as we speak.’ Jade Holland Cooper, founder and Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Bicester Village is one of the most important destinations for international customers. The opening of our store there in 2017 was an integral part of our global expansion.

In 2021, Kate Middleton, then Duchess of Cambridge, was photographed wearing our trench coat – the first time she was pictured in our clothing. It was absolutely monumental.

We opened our flagship store in the Cotswolds in 2021. We hoped it would provide our visitors with a magical shopping experience. I know we’ve achieved that and more.

To celebrate HM Queen Elizabeth II’s 70-year reign, we launched our Platinum Jubilee Collection – a special, limited-edition capsule collection that showcased our signature British-made tailoring.

5 ‘I WANT THE HOLLAND COOPER BRAND TO BE A WORLD LEADER, AND I WILL UTILISE EVERY TOOL AVAILABLE TO ENSURE THAT HAPPENS’

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Holland Cooper is growing well. In the past few years, we’ve launched several new ranges, including menswear in 2023, which was a significant milestone.

HOLLAND COOPER BOUTIQUE Cotswold House, The Barlands London Road, Charlton Kings Cheltenham GL52 6UT +44 (0)1608 658063 hollandcooper.com hollandcooperclothing

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GBB 2024 —— H

HOLLAND & HOLLAND

Perfecting the art of shooting since 1835

‘S

ince our acquisition by Beretta Holding, we have focused again on our core essence of shooting and hunting. Holland & Holland, pre-eminent gun-maker since 1835, crafts exceptional shotguns and rifles. Proud Royal Warrant holders, our values of quality, craftsmanship, tradition and innovation are distilled into every gun and all aspects of the company. The guns remain sublime. For the owner they are beautiful works of art to be enjoyed, not just for function and performance but for their feel, look and aesthetics: stocks carved from Circassian walnut, engraved metalwork and customised details personalised to each buyer. Time-honoured skills combine with state-of-the art machinery in one dedicated London factory where we are perfecting the art of shooting. Technology aids that quest for perfection. Our guns are tested at the London Proof House, but using Finite Element Analysis we can test digitally how the gun moves under pressure. AI may assist us, but I don’t see it writing brochures or to customers – that’s more personal. Many customers want to escape from the digital world and enjoy an experience in the field with their gun, their dog and their friends. Our people are passionate about shooting, storytellers inspired by our heritage preserved

For nearly 200 years Holland & Holland has made some of the finest guns in the world, joined now by a world-class shooting school, restaurant and clothing range

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Perfection takes time; even after 188 years we drive ever forwards in

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‘OUR PEOPLE ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT SHOOTING, STORYTELLERS INSPIRED BY OUR HERITAGE’ in our Brevis Collection of historic firearms. Our Northwood shooting ground boasts five full-time instructors and some 20 parttimers. Its restaurant sources all-British food – line-caught cod from Cornwall, wild venison from estates we know – all at a level of excellence to match the brand. We also devote research and time to making clothing and accessories – from jackets to belts and cartridge bags – just as true to our heritage, while performing excellently for the job for which they were designed. Even a pen, designed and machined in brass to the shape of the .375 calibre bullet we invented, delights an owner with its link with a rifle.’ Nigel Stuart, COO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1861, the first of 51 Holland patents, No.1904, was awarded. Many are still current today, in testament to the innovation of our founders.

2 3 4 5

The ‘Royal’ trademark was applied for in 1885, heralding a moniker and identity that will go on to be synonymous with the brand. The .375 Magnum cartridge, one of the most prolific calibres in use today was first introduced in 1912.

The .700 NE ‘Royal’ Double Rifle created in 1989, has proved to be a benchmark of excellence as yet unrivalled in large-calibre rifles.

The 2023 launch of a new Holland & Holland clothing and accessories range marked a new era for the company, and for the luxury field-sports apparel and gifting market.

HOLLAND & HOLLAND 36 St James’s Street London SW1A 1JD +44 (0)20 7499 4411 hollandandholland.com hollandandholland1835

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GBB 2024 —— IMMIGRATION

Despite the toxic rhetoric that fills the airwaves and political speeches around migrants and immigration, Britain has thrived not in spite of but because of its melting pot of cultures. KAMIN MOHAMMADI, herself a child migrant, shines a light on the people that help make up Britain’s colourful cultural fabric

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

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The Notting Hill Carnival brings a million people to the capital to celebrate Caribbean culture

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GBB 2024 —— IMMIGRATION

hen Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful arrived in London from Ghana in 1985 as a child, it would have been unimaginable to think that this child fleeing a coup d’état in his own country would one day head up the world’s most established, exclusive and influential fashion magazine. But he grew up around the ethnically diverse Notting Hill area, whose carnival every summer brings more than a million people to the capital for this festival of Caribbean culture – a melting pot of ethnicities that has brought together all races in positivity long before multi-cultural was a buzzword, a celebration of our common humanity in the face of political tensions. So perhaps it’s no surprise that, four decades later, Enninful’s reign at Vogue has cemented a fact that has long been true: immigration has deep roots in Britain and it is this contribution to the melting pot that is the UK that helps make Britain great today. In 2021, the Migration Observatory, attached to the University of Oxford, released figures stating that 14.5 percent of Britain’s population is made up of people born outside of the UK, some 9.5 million people. That figure doesn’t include the very many second-generationers, born to parents who migrated to this country and who are now leaving their mark on the culture. And while migrants make up under 15 percent of the population, they lead the field in terms of innovation and entrepreneurship: 39 percent of Britain’s start-ups have at least one immigrant co-founder. From AI and cybersecurity to fintech and food and drink, the founders or co-founders of nearly half of this country’s start-ups are drawn from 28 countries and five continents. The worlds of fashion, food, art and design are threaded through with immigrant success stories, making it impossible to deny the positive contribution of migrants. But this is nothing new. Immigration has been a part of British life and identity for hundreds – if not thousands – of years. From the French Huguenots who fled 18th-century Europe to set up textile factories in the East End and the Jewish immigrants who came between the 1880s and 1914, to the Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi and Caribbean migrants who arrived throughout the 20th century, immigrants have been responsible

for some of Britain’s most cherished brands. Marks & Spencer is a case in point, started in 1884 by Michael Marks, a Jewish refugee from Belarus (formerly part of Russian Poland), as is footwear brand Dune, founded in 1992 by Daniel Rubin, the grandson of a Russian Jewish migrant from Lithuania who settled in London in the 1890s and eventually set up his shoe-making factory in the East End. Enninful’s story reflects my own. When my birth country, Iran, went through a violent revolution in 1979, my family had to flee for our lives. Arriving shell-shocked in London aged nine, I have never forgotten the sheer terror of standing at the immigration booth at Heathrow, where an officer assessed whether we could enter the country or be sent back to Iran to die. The stamp that decided our fate hung in the air, the sound of it thumping onto our passports a blessed relief, a reprieve from a death sentence. That sound marked the beginning of my falling in love with Britain. Britain was our haven. It gave us all the things that I now cherish – most of all a sort of benign indifference that allowed us to live in peace. To be ourselves. Britain in 1979 was not the shiny multi-cultural place it is now and we experienced plenty of racism, but it never occurred to us to mind or complain. We were political refugees and, like the thousands pouring into Europe today, we were just grateful to be here. In the years since, I have been absorbed into this country, this culture, and I have been proud of that. Britain gave us freedom, not just to sleep safely in our beds at night, but also freedom of thought, speech and fashion. British fashion is the most exciting in the world and many of the designers and creatives bringing buzz are immigrants themselves or children of migrants. Second-generation British-Iranian Paria Farzaneh’s eponymous menswear label has been wowing critics alike since launching in 2017, leading to selection as one of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen recipients in 2019, a nomination for the LVMH Prize 2019, and extensive collaborations with Converse. Her aesthetic, fabrics, prints and shows always reference her Persian culture, born of being ‘the five percent minority’ in the Yorkshire village where she grew up. Similarly, Grace Wales Bonner, founder of Wales Bonner and recipient of the LVMH Prize in 2016, uses her mixed-race heritage as inspiration

PHOTOS: MERT & MARCUS; SHUTTERSTOCK

‘FROM AI TO CYBERSECURITY TO FINTECH AND FOOD, THE FOUNDERS OR CO-FOUNDERS OF NEARLY HALF OF THE UK’S START-UPS ARE DRAWN FROM 28 COUNTRIES AND FIVE CONTINENTS’

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Grace Wales Bonner uses her mixed-race heritage to draw inspiration for her collections; the menswear designs of Paria Farzaneh (bottom) always reference her Persian heritage

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for her collections. Born in south London to an English mother and Jamaican father, Wales Bonner’s work challenges representations of black male identity through her use of craftsmanship and embellishments. Her talents have not been confined to the catwalk: in 2019 she was part of a show at the Serpentine Gallery and her numerous prizes in the world of fashion were topped by an MBE for services to the industry in 2022. Bianca Saunders, another menswear designer, was named by Forbes magazine in its 2020 ‘30 Under 30’ list and named as ‘one to watch’ by the British Fashion Council in 2018. She won a place in its Newgen programme in 2020, and the Andam Prize in 2021. Hailed as ‘one of British menswear’s most high-wattage stars’, Saunders credits her upbringing in London’s Jamaican community as her main influence, particularly the band that her uncles formed. Also inspired by the music of her youth, Ahluwalia’s creative director, Priya Ahluwalia, draws on her Nigerian and Indian heritage, and upbringing in London, to present collections that are sourced responsibly and use sustainable manufacturing methods. She insists that it’s her heritage that inspires her to explore the potential of vintage and surplus clothing, giving existing fabrics new life through textile techniques that she learned from her mixed heritage. Supriya Lele, whose womenswear label received the LVMH Prize in 2020, says: ‘My work and process is deeply rooted in exploring my BritishIndian heritage through a contemporary and modern lens.’ Her sophisticated, feminine clothes are beloved of the likes of Rihanna. The phenomenon that is Dua Lipa was born in London to Kosovan– Albanian parents. The three-time Grammy award-winner is also the founder of Service95, the editorial platform which includes a newsletter, a podcast and book club. Started in 2021 during the pandemic, Lipa was inspired to provide the same ‘service’ to her fans as she has always given to her friends and family, giving them lists of cultural content, beauty recommendations, tips on books, travel and food, and, perhaps most passionately, issues of social justice with particular interest in women’s rights and mental health. As the world of traditional media shrinks, Lipa’s Service95 continues to grow, its newsletter translated into many languages and sent out to hundreds of thousands of people across the world. A passionate reader, Dua Lipa’s keynote speech at 2022’s Booker Prize mentioned how books helped her to navigate her dual nationalities and mused: ‘I often wonder if authors realise just how many gifts they give us.’

Writer and multi-disciplinary artist Osman Yousefzada’s own gift to the culture has been his critically acclaimed memoir The Go-Between, which describes his childhood in 1980s Birmingham within a traditional and closed Pakistani-Afghan community. He has exhibited his art at the V&A, the Whitechapel Gallery and Charleston, among many other – his pieces focusing on the immigrant experience, and inviting a conversation around the themes of migration, refuge and how those spaces are occupied. Reimagined spaces inform the runaway success of the Iranian streetfood restaurant Berenjak, both in Soho and a new branch in Borough Market. The brainchild of British-Iranian chef Kian Samyani, the tiny Soho eatery has queues outside every night five years after opening. Samyani was inspired by his childhood visits home to Iran, where the kebab shops of Tehran served simple skewers to workers. ‘Just down the road from our family’s townhouse was a hole-in-the-wall kebab shop,’ recalls Samyani. ‘I would always go missing from the house and my family would find me at the shop, chatting with the people there.’ Years later and working for JKS, the family group behind successes such as Bao and Gymkhana, Samyani helped the group come up with its latest concept, bringing Iranian street food to London in a post-industrial setting overlaid with Persian motifs. From fashion to food, from interiors to architecture, immigrants, and those born to one-time refugees or migrants, are invigorating the culture. Often springing from parents who came to Britain because of colonialism, they – we – understand that Britain is great, precisely because of the mix of different races and peoples contributing to it. We migrants know that we are a part of what makes this country what it is today: a melting pot of cultures and colours existing in harmony, a model of civility and tolerance that the rest of the world aspires to. And it is this recognition of our shared humanity that makes migrants and refugees such an important resource to this country, and its great culture and brands. Kamin Mohammadi is a British-Iranian writer, journalist and broadcaster. She wrote about her own immigrant experience in The Cypress Tree (Bloomsbury) and is also the author of Bella Figura (Bloomsbury), in development as a television series. n

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

GBB 2024 —— IMMIGRATION

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PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Dua Lipa credits authors with helping her navigate her own dual nationality; Priya Ahluwalia’s eponymous label gives existing fabrics new life; Supriya Lee SS/24; Osman Yousefzada; Osman’s artworks have been exhibited at Charleston

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GBB 2024 —— H The House of Bruar specialises in timeless, well-made country clothing, plus the best Scottish food, drink and homeware

THE HOUSE OF BRUAR The renowned destination store selling the best of Scottish design

‘T

he business was the inspiration of my parents who wanted to create a destination retail space to showcase the best of Scotland. Over the years, as it has expanded, we have always tried to give the customer more than they want. Many customers – many of whom have never been to The House of Bruar in person – buy from us through direct shopping channels, but we don’t ever want to be a faceless enterprise. We want them to know that we are a physical location, not a hiddenaway warehouse with no interaction. It’s incredibly important to have a personal touch in every aspect of any correspondence or communication. For instance, my father Mark, who is still very active in the business, has just written a letter to our mail order customers extolling his belief in the physical presence of a shop and what might be termed as old-fashioned shopkeeping. It’s a personal touch in a mail order industry which typically isn’t very personal.

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The importance of nurturing relationships, not just with customers but with

staff. A team is stronger than an individual. ◆ Long-term suppliers are key, so that when something goes wrong, you can pick up the phone and help each other. ◆ If you haven’t got the product, you’re not going anywhere. Products need to be inventive, different and good quality at competitive prices.

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‘IT’S INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT TO HAVE A PERSONAL TOUCH IN EVERY People will say to me, “you’ve got amazing staff, you must train them brilliantly.” You can give technical training but I don’t think you can train personality into people; what we rely on is their character so that when you come to the shop, you are looked after and welcomed. It’s the same for telephone orders: if you’re speaking to someone pleasant, then you enjoy the call. We do use data analysis – we have a company that does our digital marketing and they have algorithms galore – but when we’re producing our catalogues or arranging product on the shop floor it is a hundred percent gut feel and instinct, which comes from my father and Tom, my brother. That’s about creativity, knowing your customer base and finding ways to introduce new customers. It’s the softer side of the business.’

ASPECT OF ANY CORRESPONDENCE OR COMMUNICATION’

Patrick Birkbeck, Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Establishing the brand in 1993 thanks to Mark Birkbeck, who had sold his successful Jumpers line of clothing shops.

In 1995, as we opened the doors of The House of Bruar destination store in Highland Perthshire with 250 guests – while the Atholl Highlanders sounded the canon. It included a food hall, restaurant and sections dedicated to tweed and tartan clothes.

As the retail offering grew, in 1998 the brand sent out its first mail order catalogue (as of 2023, it sends out over 3.2 million hard copy catalogues a year).

4 5

Camilla, then Duchess of Rothesay, now Queen, came to the store on an official visit in 2019.

In spring 2023, the brand launched its first spring/summer catalogue showcasing its own in-house-developed clothing range to great success.

THE HOUSE OF BRUAR By Blair Atholl, Pitlochry Perthshire PH18 5TW +44 (0)1796 483236 houseofbruar.com thehouseofbruar

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GBB 2024 —— I

ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS Unique properties with personalities as distinctly individual as its guests

‘S

taying at an Iconic Luxury Hotel lingers in the memory: destination addresses of distinction; opulent rooms that set you instantly at ease; perfect cuisine delivered in relaxed comfort; and, above all, thoughtful and discreet service. Our hand-picked hotel collection spans a country house like Chewton Glen, the stately home of Cliveden, former rural coaching inn, The Lygon Arms, central London townhouses and a Venetian palace. Each has its distinct character, stories and traditions that mark it as unique, and people with personalities to match. What unites them is an

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 2012, Chewton Glen’s Treehouse Suites were opened by Olympian Ben Ainsley. We also acquired historic Cliveden House.

instinct for the service individual guests prefer – familiar, chatty or more reserved – and pride in delivering it in a effortless, understated manner. Everything they do is intuitive and instinctive, creating an emotional connection with each guest. Stories abound to add layers of authenticity: novelist Captain Marryat, brother to a past Chewton Glen owner, popularised the mint julep; The Lygon Arms lists guests from Cromwell to Elizabeth Taylor; Cliveden’s Sixties’ sensation; the Excelsior’s Venice Film Festival. Desirable settings and iconic buildings with stories to tell are a backdrop for what we do. They attract people in the first place; what brings them back is our team. Technology streamlines efficiency, and AI makes us more creative. But neither can replace human instinct and emotional intelligence. Existing software already smooths bookings, confirmations and emails. Our team already takes detailed cues on what regular guests expect – on which side of the bed they sleep, favourite pillows, still or sparkling water – without asking. Future AI may even identify personal preferences before a first visit but once guests arrive, the human touch takes over. We bring people together to share stories which set the example, giving them confidence that they’re part of the guest experience. Happy guests write with stories of team members who went that extra mile.’

In 2016, Chewton Glen’s 50th anniversary year, Iconic Luxury Hotels was founded, with Cliveden House, Chewton Glen and 11 Cadogan Gardens.

3 4

The Lygon Arms joined the collection in 2017, after a transformation of this ancient Cotswolds’ coaching inn. The Mayfair Townhouse, the fifth hotel in our collection, opened in Dec 2020, followed in 2021 by The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens.

Last year saw not only the opening of The Chelsea Townhouse but also the addition of Venice’s famed Hotel Excelsior to the collection.

ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS Christchurch Road, New Milton, Hampshire BH25 6QA +44 (0)1425 275341 iconicluxuryhotels.com iconicluxuryhotels

The members of the Iconic Luxury Hotels collection are all different, but similar in their exceptional outlook and quality

Andrew Stembridge, Executive Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Emotional intelligence wins every time: effortless service comes naturally to

people with hospitality in their hearts. They make guests want to return. ◆ Discover what excites travellers, and exceed their expectations with experiences and adventures that delight them. ◆ Get people together to share learnings so that a common culture stays alive, evolves and grows.

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GBB 2024 —— JEWELLERY

theLIST

Six British Jewellery Brands on the Rise New names for your jewellery box – who design with people and planet in mind. By AMY WAKEHAM

Shyla

Founded by Alice Blofeld in 2017, Shyla prides itself on its vintage-inspired designs (think baroque pearls, chunky cocktail rings and gold hoops) using ethically sourced or recycled metals, and employing women in India so they can support their families. Sorrento earrings, £74. shylajewellery.com

Lucy Delius

Started in response to the lack of well-priced fine jewellery in the market, this eponymous brand makes its playful, statement pieces – heart-shaped ruby earrings and chunky gold link bracelets, for instance – in India and Thailand by workshops certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council. Earrings, £2,100. lucydelius.co

Makal

Italian design meets a love of gold at Makal, which is inspired by ancient Mayan civilisation. It's committed to responsible sourcing and empowering women, and uses gold that is sustainably panned by co-operative partners, and collaborates with female jewellery designers. Roscida necklace, £860. makal.com

Atteya

Catherine Godon works with recycled or Fairtrade metals and fully traceable stones across three collections: In Wood, In Water and Talisman. Five percent of sales are donated to related charities: Treesisters, Coral Gardeners or Care International UK. Curly Leaf ring, from £600. atteya.co.uk

Matilde

Using recycled metals and lab-grown gems, this brand, founded by Matilde Mourinho, always keeps the planet close to its heart. Her designs are cool, contemporary and for wearing every day. Tempest earrings, £3,465; Moon Drop earrings, £2,185. Cluster stud, £515. matildejewellery.com

Aureliean

Working exclusively with responsibly sourced 18ct gold, diamonds and quality coloured gemstones, founder Elizabeth Harrison designs elegant, timeless collections, as well one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces. Lover's earrings, £3,499. aureliean.com

With thanks to Melanie Grant of the Responsible Jewellery Council for her suggestions

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GBB 2024

J. ADAMS & CO 152

JAMES PURDEY & SONS 154 JOHN BELL& CROYDEN 156

JOSEPH CHEANEY & SONS 158 JULIETTE BYRNE 160 JUSH LONDON 162

KATHARINE POOLEY 166

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GBB 2024 —— J

J. ADAMS & CO

Lighting designed in London and produced in Birmingham by a business with a bright future

‘W

e set out to bring British design and craftsmanship to the fore in creating lighting objects and installations to be treasured and celebrated – counter to the throwaway culture of our times. We were set up in 2015 as a sister brand to an established industrial company based in Birmingham, initially to produce outside lighting and sell direct to the public. We’ve since produced 15 collections, introducing a consistent visual language. But the rich heritage of our Birmingham factory is the foundation of everything, and storytelling is vital to communicating our values. Britishness is a huge part of our story. Our products are designed by us and made by hand in the UK, and this is a badge of quality that resonates. Interior designers and architects, who make up 90 percent of our business, know that we do pretty much everything in-house, and can cater for modifications and bespoke editions. They appreciate the direct relationship they have with us, the flexibility and shorter lead times. We emphasise the human element throughout both design and manufacturing. Our team brings a wealth of experience, a deep passion for their craft and creative authenticity to our products. In combination with old-school handmaking and metal-finishing techniques, we utilise cutting edge technologies (like CNC machining and laser cutting), which help us

The brand’s lighting designs are elegant, timeless and expertly crafted

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Build a team that shares a vision, then things become second nature.

◆ Every aspect of our brand should reflect our core values of considered

design, exceptional craftsmanship and sustainability. ◆ Communication is key. A great deal of work, passion and skill goes into every product, from design to manufacturing, and sharing this story is hugely important to us. 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘THE VALUE PLACED ON AUTHENTIC HUMAN CREATIVITY AND CRAFT WILL ONLY INCREASE’ push the boundaries. Using these processes in harmony, we can create unique luminaires that still retain a human “warmth” through their design, materiality and craft. AI is fast becoming more prevalent in our day-to-day lives and for certain tasks. It is a tool that can be harnessed and used to help us work more efficiently. However, as a result, we believe that the value placed on authentic human creativity and craft will only increase – these qualities are integral to our brand and we’re passionate about keeping them alive.’ Will Earl, Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Launching the Flume collection in 2019, which quickly became our most successful product.

Achieving UL certification in 2020, an electrical standard that opens up new markets to us including, crucially, the US where we are steadily building a network.

3 4 5

Moving into our first showroom in January 2021, and we will be moving into a bigger space in February 2024. Introducing our very first luxury portable light in 2022. We have since continued to expand that collection.

Our debut at Euroluce in 2023, where we exhibited alongside top brands sooner than expected. We also had really good feedback at the International Contemporary Furniture Fair.

J ADAMS & CO 67 Farringdon Road London EC1M 3JB +44 (0)20 7164 6418 jadamsandco.com jadamsandco

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GBB 2024 —— J

JAMES PURDEY & SONS

Reimagining a proud heritage brand for the future

‘W

hen I joined Purdey before lockdown, I knew it was an amazing brand with a great legacy and history but I wanted to change and define our approach to the future rather than depending on the past. What was hugely successful in 2023 was the development of our brand proposition and a better understanding of our customers. Instead of being a reactive business, assuming customers will come to us, as some heritage brands do, we’ve looked at how the three formerly separate parts of our business – gun-making, clothing and accessories, and shooting experiences – can support and interact with each other. With gun-making we’ve had four consecutive very strong years. Each gun is made to order and takes up to 24 months and 1,000 hours to build. We relaunched and updated our clothing and accessories offering. Our guns have and always will be the pinnacle of craftsmanship and we wanted to elevate our clothing and accessories to the same level. With that in mind, we rewrote the rules for our Autumn/Winter 2023 collection – working with the very best mills, manufacturers, and artisans to create a timeless range of countrywear. Outerwear remains at the core of our business, providing not only the finest quality field coats for shooting but also beautifully crafted pieces for country walks. If you make products of high enough quality, like our guns, there

Building on its heritage, Purdey has relaunched its clothing and accessories line to be a strong contender in the luxury sector

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Hire and nurture the very best people as they will easily pay for themselves

by over-delivering. ◆ Relentless progress, improvement and change are essential but not everyone changes at the same pace so always find ways to accommodate people in your plan. ◆ Protect your heritage while remembering that each generation adds to it by being original and innovative. 154 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘IF YOU MAKE PRODUCTS OF HIGH ENOUGH QUALITY, LIKE OUR GUNS, THERE WILL INEVITABLY BE DESIRE FOR THEM’ will inevitably be desire for them. Finally, we organise hundreds of shooting and simulated days at our Royal Berkshire shooting school and beyond, when people spend time with the piece of kit they’re looking to buy. This makes all the difference as our world is becoming increasingly experiential, and while people are delighted to own something they want opportunities to use it, too. As a result of all this, we aim to have very strong personal links with every customer and I’d hate to think we would ever substitute the personal touch or those strong relationships with technology or AI.’ Dan Jago, Chairman and CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

When James Purdey opened his first store on Prince’s Street in 1814, founding a company that has continued his traditions for quality and craftsmanship ever since.

When the second James Purdey was appointed gunmaker to Queen Victoria in 1878. We have held the warrant as the Royal Family’s gunmaker continuously for the last 145 years.

When Audley House became our home in 1883. It has remained so ever since, and is both the last gunroom in Mayfair and one of the oldest in the world.

4 5

When Purdey was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1996.

We celebrated our bicentenary in 2014 by commissioning a new factory, allowing us to continue utilising both heritage crafts and modern technology.

JAMES PURDEY & SONS Audley House, 57-58 South Audley Street, London W1K 2ED +44 (0)20 7499 1801 purdey.com jamespurdeyandsons

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GBB 2024 —— J

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN

The standalone pharmacy offering listening pharmacists and truly personal care

‘L

ast year was hectic in a good way. We were bought by Bestway, a British familyowned wholesale business. Bestway has the second largest pharmacy chain in the UK and rather than investing in us for sale, is in it for the long haul, giving us a great sense of security. To celebrate our 225th anniversary, we ran a competition with CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) for skincare brands not stocked in bricks-and-mortar stores.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Eighty-eight brands applied and we awarded the winner, Seabody, Irish skincare made from seaweed products, a free listing instore with a £25,000 marketing package. We’re also stocking the four shortlisted finalists. It’s rewarding to give a leg up to emerging brands and we hope ultimately to see them in other major stores like Selfridges or Harrods. In 2024 we’ll be modernising our environment, using the back of store where we gave vaccinations to showcase more products. We’re putting state-of-the-art digital screens in our windows that will be a vibrant, energetic way to advertise our brands. We’ll also be developing a way for all private GPs and hospitals around Harley Street to send us prescriptions digitally. At the same time, because of our history and our heritage, we’ve always done things in a quieter, traditional way and are entirely led by our customers. So, if we ever do use AI, it would be because customers want it. From what I’ve seen, there’ll never be a substitute for a face-to-face conversation with a pharmacist. We pride ourselves on the information we can give anyone who comes in with a concern – hair, skin, digestion, mental health, whatever it might be. By keeping that human connection, we can ask questions and ascertain precisely the right remedy for people. Our customers really value being able to walk in and be listened to by a pharmacist.’ Robin Winfield, Director of Operations

1 2 3 4 5

Obtaining a Royal Warrant as pharmacist to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 1958. Winning Retail Week’s New Store of the Year award in 2016.

Staying open and vaccinating over 20,000 patients against Covid during lockdown.

Celebrating our 225th anniversary last year with our competition and free in-store listing for five emerging brands.

Establishing ourselves as a standalone business during 2023, despite being under new ownership.

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN 50 – 54 Wigmore Street London W1U 2AU +44 (0)20 7935 5555 johnbellcroyden.co.uk johnbellandcroyden

The John Bell & Croyden team with Sallie Berkerey from CEW UK (second from left) have just celebrated the brand’s 225th anniversary

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Never be frightened to sleep on a decision. The one you make the next

day is nearly always the right one. ◆ Remember your manners. Say please and thank you at all times – its free, easy and always helps. ◆ Surround yourself with talented, motivated people. You don’t hire intelligent people then have to tell them what to do. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 157

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GBB 2024 —— J

JOSEPH CHEANEY & SONS

Heritage footwear brand remaining true to its purely English-made credentials

‘C

heaney, a classic brand, distinguishes itself by embodying a youthful and contemporary spirit compared to our close competitors. A key plank to our recent growth revolves around the development of our retail estate portfolio. Our stores are designed to reflect our rich heritage in a fresh and contemporary way. Within our stores, you’ll find references back to our factory roots. We proudly emphasise our role as the maker, a distinctive trait, as many brands retail products rather than crafting them. This adds to confidence and trust in what we do. Like the significance of not neglecting the internet in today’s landscape, I would emphasise that, for a brand like us, disregarding the importance of physical stores or a bricksand-mortar presence is equally perilous. Human interaction plays a crucial role in cultivating the brand rapport we aim to establish with our customers. Online sales are an important complement to our store network. Staying true to our roots and preserving a connection with customers runs strong in both our physical stores and marketing efforts. Our commitment to sustainability starts with our footwear, thanks to our Goodyear welted construction, wherein the sole is stitched to the upper, allowing the replacement of the sole up to three times. In contrast, most footwear in the market is simply glued, resulting in landfill waste once the sole wears out.

Cheaney’s traditionally made shoes can be resoled up to three times

◆ Cherish and nurture your brand’s power: watch it grow. ◆ A retail presence

transcends products, fostering a human touch. Beyond this, it builds rapport, allowing staff to advise, story-tell, and connect with customers. ◆ Focusing on customers, including what they want, how they feel and where to find them, can improve your results.

PHOTOS: © RIHARDS SARMA

WHAT I’VE LEARNT...

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‘WE’VE GOT A FACTORY WITH 110 CRAFTSPEOPLE IN IT – IT’S A THEATRE THAT TELLS ITS OWN STORY’ It is natural for us to use storytelling in our brand because we’ve got a factory with 110 craftspeople in it – it’s a theatre that tells its own story. We retain all of our manufacturing in house meaning that we can maintain intimate technical and quality control throughout. It’s all about the skilled hand that sits behind the shoe that they’re making. People who visit the factory find it amazing. While our shoes carry a premium price, they represent a lasting investment. Over time, the product yields a remarkable return, measured ultimately by the number of times you wear them. We believe Cheaney offers exceptional value as enduring companions for years to come.’ William Church, Joint Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Jonathan and William Church buying the company in 2009. The family has been making fine shoes for five generations, entirely made in England.

2 3 4 5

Opening our first retail store in Lime Street, London in 2010. An e-commerce site was also launched. Opening our flagship store in Jermyn Street, London in 2014. Winning the Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade in 2016.

PHOTOS: © RIHARDS SARMA

Opening our tenth store in Edinburgh at 33 George Street in April 2023.

JOSEPH CHEANEY AND SONS 69 Rushton Road Desborough, Kettering Northamptonshire NN14 2RR +44 (0)1536 760383 cheaney.co.uk josephcheaney

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GBB 2024 —— J

JULIETTE BYRNE

The interior design studio taking a well-rounded approach

‘W

e offer a very personal design service in our Chelsea-based studio for residential and commercial projects. Our small and talented team gets involved from concept to completion, and liaises with professionals in the industry to secure planning permissions, organise renovations and give the clients a turnkey solution. Our studio is very collaborative and every project is approached with a commitment to the client’s individuality, tailored to reflect their personality, lifestyle and culture. My team undertakes a significant amount of travel, meaning we can offer the very best of international design. Despite challenges post-Brexit, our passion for European projects remains unchanged. Many of my team speak different languages, which enables us to work with overseas architects, contractors and suppliers. For clients, it’s a good option. We can do their property in the UK – then, if they have a place abroad that perhaps they want to do up and rent out, we can offer a full service. Recent projects include a house in Cap-Ferrat, a lovely

Juliette (left) and her small team are known for creating elegant and sophisticated interiors with a personal touch

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Understanding the client’s vision is key. ◆ Maintain clear and transparent

communication about financial expectations and constraints throughout the entire process. Nobody likes surprises when it comes to money. ◆ Be loyal and build a good rapport with your most trusted suppliers and subcontractors to ensure the projects are finished to the highest quality. 160 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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property in Cannes and a beautiful 18th-century townhouse in Dresden. We also have expertise in small boutique hotels and gastropubs. While we embrace technology and AI, we maintain the personal touch through hand sketches, recognising that the subtleties and psychological nuances behind creating a warm, welcoming home go beyond the capabilities of artificial intelligence. There are many different dynamics to consider; your client might, for example, have a blended family. People also don’t want to see a robot – they want to hold up fabrics and drape a large piece over the window. Our dedication to a tactile, personalised experience is what sets us apart. In the world of design, there is still irreplaceable value in the feel, connection and authenticity that only a human touch can provide.’ Juliette Byrne, founder

‘THE SUBTLETIES AND PSYCHOLOGICAL NUANCES BEHIND CREATING A WARM, WELCOMING HOME GO BEYOND THE CAPABILITIES OF ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

Winning at the 2021 International Property Awards for a Belgravia townhouse we designed.

The brand’s Chalet Floralie project was featured in Chalets & Hotels: Luxury in the Alps coffee table book.

Taking part in team discussions during London Design Week at Chelsea Harbour with John Cullen Lighting and Porta Romana, nurturing future talent by holding talks for Inchbald School of Design.

Development of a bespoke rug range in 2022 in collaboration with Matthew Wailes who supports GoodWeave, which helps to end child labour. The collection is made from upcycled plastic fishing nets retrieved from the ocean and woven into new, soft fibres.

Being featured in Country & Town House’s Great British Brands and in its Top 50 Interior Designers 2023. The brand is also gold members in House & Garden’s The List.

JULIETTE BYRNE LTD. Unit 3.20, The Plaza, 535 King’s Road London SW10 0SZ +44 (0)20 7352 1553 juliettebyrne.com juliettebyrneltd

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GBB 2024 —— J

JUSH LONDON

An innovative new company pushing the boundaries of furniture design

‘A

t the forefront of revolutionary furniture design, Jush London epitomises modern s ophis tic ation and innovative luxury. A new company, we envision a realm where craftsmanship meets technology, tradition intertwines with contemporary allure, and each piece narrates a timeless tale. As a purveyor of opulent furnishings, we offer a collection of meticulously crafted pieces. Alongside these completed pieces, we have a bespoke service tailored to the customer’s taste, ensuring each piece of furniture will be cherished and handed down through generations. Jush London collaborates with visionaries across art, fashion, and craftsmanship, with an aim to shatter conventional boundaries. Our inaugural piece is a desk adorned with the captivating artwork of Tishk Barzanji, hand-crafted from 384 pieces of the finest walnut, fusing artistry and functionality. This marks just the beginning, as our alliances with esteemed fashion designers and renowned jewellers promise future revelations in the realm of exquisite furniture. In the ever-evolving landscape of innovation, Jush London embraces AI as a kindred spirit. AI serves as our ally, propelling us beyond the limits of conventional design and allowing for unparalleled creativity. And technology makes us more

Jush London was founded by Pritesh and his wife Justina, inspired by the award-winning furniture designs of their other brand, St James Interiors

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Collaborating with the best people within the industry, with aligned

principles, values and ethos, makes working together much easier and satisfying. ◆ You’re always learning new things, and can constantly improve. If something’s great, you can make it even better. ◆ Just enjoy the day to day. If you enjoy what you do, it’s easier to face challenges and problems. 162 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘AI SERVES AS OUR ALLY, PROPELLING US BEYOND THE LIMITS OF CONVENTIONAL DESIGN AND ALLOWING FOR UNPARALLELED CREATIVITY’

sustainable, allowing us to be less wasteful in terms of the materials that we use. However, amid the increasing use of machinery and technology, we remain steadfast in our reverence for the raw elegance of the materials that define our creations. What sets Jush London apart is not just our commitment to exceptional design but the alliances we forge with the finest talents in the industry. Collaborating with individuals who share our principles, ethos, and values will be the cornerstone of our success. In this journey of continual refinement, we have learned that greatness can always be elevated, and turn challenges into triumphs. We think Jush London will attract those who appreciate the extraordinary, where heritage and innovation converge.’ Pritesh Lad, founder

JUSH LONDON Vithal House, 35 Gorst Road, Park Royal NW10 6LA +44 (0)20 8961 1342 jushlondon.com jushlondon

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GBB 2024 —— EXHIBITIONS

theLIST

Nine Exhibitions Not to Miss in 2024 ED VAIZEY picks his cultural must-sees for the coming year

Women in Revolt! Art and Activism in the UK 1970-1990

Modern Two, 25 May to 26 January 2025

On tour from Tate Britain, catch this display of art from the feminist movements of the 70s and 80s, exploring everything from the Women’s Liberation Movement to Greenham Common, and the AIDS crisis. nationalgalleries.org

Icons of British Fashion Blenheim Palace, 23 March to 30 June

The historic seat will be transformed into a fashion wonderland, with each room on the visitor route dedicated to a different iconic British brand: Barbour, Bruce Oldfield, Vivienne Westwood have all been confirmed. On display will be a collection of clothing, accessories, archival materials, drawings, photography and patterns, alongside the priceless Blenheim collections. blenheimpalace.com

The Biba Story, 1964-1975

Fashion & Textile Museum, 22 March to 8 September

Biba, founded by Barbara Hulanicki, changed the face of fashion in the UK in the 60s and 70s. This exhibition explores how the brand, which started as a mail-order company in 1963, became the world’s first lifestyle label, revolutionising how we shopped. ‘It isn't just selling dresses, it's a whole way of life,’ said Barbara. fashiontextilemuseum.org

Barbie

Design Museum, 5 July to 25 February 2025

Still can’t get enough of the blonde-haired plastic doll in hot pink? The Barbie craze continues in 2024 with this dedicated exhibition, which coincides with the 65th anniversary of the doll, created in 1959 by Ruth Handler. In partnership with Mattel Inc, who let the curators go wild in its California archive, it will explore the design cues of the world’s most famous toy – and her fashion, cars, architecture and more. designmuseum.org

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Sargent and Fashion

Tate Britain,

22 Feb to 7 July

Staged in collaboration with the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, this will feature 60 paintings by John Singer Sargent, on display alongside more than a dozen period dresses and accessories, many of which were worn by his sitters. The combination of paintings and fashion will offer a new perspective on the Gilded Age, and its most celebrated portraitist. tate.org.uk

Michelangelo, Leonardo, Raphael Royal Academy, 9 November to 16 February 2025

Picture the scene: Florence at the turn of the 16th century. Michelangelo’s David is almost finished, and his great rival, Leonardo da Vinci, has just returned, competing for the attention of the city’s richest and most powerful patrons. While this goes on, a young Raphael is watching from the wings. This impressive exhibition will explore the unprecedented period in European art history, and will showcase some fine examples of Italian Renaissance drawing. royalacademy.org.uk

Untold Lives: A Palace at Work Kensington Palace, from 13 March

History fans will love this look behind-the-scenes at life working at Kensington Palace in the 18th century. Instead of focusing on its royal inhabitants, the exhibition will focus on the untold stories of the pages, cooks, seamstresses and valets who ensured the palace ran like clockwork, maintaining, protecting and promoting the monarch over the decades. hrp.org.uk

NAOMI

V&A, from 22 June

In recent years the V&A’s expert fashion curators have delved into the lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. Now, the museum is turning its attention to supermodel Naomi Campbell, whose 45-year career changed the face of fashion forever, and created some truly iconic images. Through the work of leading global designers and photographers, the exhibition will celebrate her creative collaborations, activism and far-reaching cultural impact. vam.ac.uk

NG200

National Gallery, from 10 May

In May the National Gallery celebrates its 200th birthday. As part of the year-long NG200 celebrations, it's launching the National Treasures programme: 12 exhibitions across the UK, each centered around one of the gallery’s masterpieces, including Constable’s The Hay Wain, Turner’s Fighting Temeraire and Monet’s The WaterLily Pond. nationalgallery.org.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 165

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GBB 2024 —— K

KATHARINE POOLEY Designer of beautiful homes and residences all over the world

‘B

ringing the best of British craftsmanship and design to the world is a personal passion that sits at the heart of every single one of our projects. This year we are celebrating 20 years since I left the world of banking in Hong Kong and Singapore, and opened the Katharine Pooley Design Studio in London. It feels like a lifetime ago. It has been a whirlwind of incredible properties, uniquely beautiful designs and unforgettable clients, many of whom have become true, life-long, friends. Across two decades my team and I have completed over 890 projects worldwide in 24 different countries. From hotels, yachts, castles, ski chalets, palaces, and contemporary private residences, the scope of work has been extraordinary and the scale unsurpassed. This year is one of our most exciting to date with projects in Sardinia, the Bahamas, the South of France, the US, the Middle East, and of course London and the English countryside . We have just opened our second satellite office, in New York, and finished work on the interior of the historic 9 Millbank development in Westminster, and I am currently working on a new book. Altogether, it is a very creative and stimulating time. Every element of the projects we create is anchored in personal relationships, both those with our clients and those with my talented and passionate team. It’s one of the reasons I am less concerned about the growth of AI. Although AI will undoubtedly prove useful in the future (especially when building efficiencies and sustainability concepts into large architectural packages), fundamentally I believe nothing can replace the value and necessity of the human viewpoint in design. Creating a beautiful home is like breathing life into a building: we add colour, texture, form and beauty to an environment and give it personality, elegance and, some might say, a soul. What could be more wonderful, and more human.’ Katharine Pooley, Founder and CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Always look forward and strive towards new goals. Think big, aim for

the stars and work without inhibition or doubt. ◆ Trust is everything. I trust my 49 designers, architects and support staff implicitly. ◆ Personal involvement is key. Fundamentally it’s my name on the door, so compromise, in terms of quality and craftsmanship, is not in my vocabulary. 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘FUNDAMENTALLY I BELIEVE NOTHING CAN REPLACE THE VALUE AND NECESSITY OF THE HUMAN VIEWPOINT IN DESIGN’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

Publishing my first book, Journey by Design, with Assouline in 2017. Being named British Interior Designer of the Decade in 2019 by Design Et Al.

Completing the design of Château de la Croix-desGardes in 2023. This historic château was the setting for Grace Kelly and Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief.

4 5

Launching our yacht division in 2023 and seeing our first yacht win a prestigious award.

Starting work with the Childhood Trust and transforming nearly 40 bedrooms since 2016. Winning the C&TH Community Award and the House & Garden Design for Positive Change Award for this work.

KATHARINE POOLEY 160 Walton Street, London SW3 2JL +44 (0)20 7584 3223 katharinepooley.com katharinepooleyltd

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Hardware | Switches & Sockets | Lighting corston.com

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GBB 2024

LALAGE BEAUMONT 170 LAWSON ROBB 172 LIFE KITCHENS 174 LINLEY 176 LOCK & CO. 178

LOUISE BRADLEY 180 MARTIN KEMP DESIGN 182 MOLTON BROWN 186 MULBERRY 188

COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 169

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GBB 2024 —— L

LALAGE BEAUMONT Bringing timeless, elegant British luxury to the world

‘O

ne of 2023’s highlights was our new Burlington Arcade shop, which drew so many new customers. Each day we had one of our coats on a mannequin in the window, creating overwhelming interest, especially from Americans, as not many people are making elegant modern coats in gorgeous colourful tweed. Another highlight was opening our franchise in Riyadh. We’ve been fortunate to have always had a number of Saudi followers, and the Gulf countries are very important to the handbag business. We also hosted our first ever handbag trunk show in New York in November. I’m obsessive about the quality of our bags because I really believe people should be able to have something that’s beautifully made but affordable. While there’s much positive to report, it’s also been a challenging year with the cost-of-living crisis and loss of tax-free shopping. Fortunately people do continue to spend on outfits for special occasions like weddings, and understandably they are even more focused on quality products that stand the test of time. Lalage Beaumont’s beautifully made bags and exquisitely tailored collections are a hit around the world, not just in London

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Never give up. ◆ Always have an up-to-date cash flow statement. ◆ Very few

things turn out as you would expect, so always prepare to be surprised.

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AI doesn’t have a huge bearing on our business but it’s brilliant for rewriting things like press releases and newsletters without grammatical errors and I think we’ll benefit from it hugely in terms of researching. But we’re intent on keeping a really human connection with our customers. In fact, we discourage clothes shopping online because we prefer people to come to the shop where we can show them how the outfits can really flatter and how we can alter them. All our clothes are exquisitely tailored and structured so need to fit perfectly, and we are proud that they are made in the UK. When people do shop online, we’ll phone them to talk through all the choices of colour and embroidery and alterations we offer. We make everything in small batches so we can customise outfits, while avoiding waste. Our ethos is staying close to our customers to help them find their perfect outfit.’ Lalage Beaumont, founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Opening the first shop in 2006 in Avery Row, Mayfair, and seeing the mannequins in the window and the merchandise beautifully displayed.

2 3 4

Opening the second shop in Beauchamp Place in 2012 and truly knowing we had a fabulous brand. Launching the handbag range in 2015 and selling some of the first pieces on Christmas Eve.

Being approached by a beautiful store in Qatar, which gave us our first Gulf-region wholesale account, lifting our spirits during Covid restrictions in October 2020.

Seeing VIPs wearing the clothes on television for the first time back in 2008.

LALAGE BEAUMONT 58 Beauchamp Place London SW3 1NZ +44 (0)20 7584 9977 lalagebeaumont.com lalage

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GBB 2024 —— L

LAWSON ROBB Fifteen years of designing beautiful interiors and exceptional spaces worldwide

‘G

ood interior design is more than the way things look; it’s about how the space is to be used by the people who inhabit it. Our diverse international portfolio includes ultra-luxury penthouses, superyacht interiors, embassies and townhouses, show apartments for prestigious developers, English country homes and private residences in super-prime Central London, Europe and the Middle East. Our aim is to bring a curated approach to each project, not only in the creation of bespoke furniture but in the selection of lighting, artwork and decorative accessories, both vintage and contemporary. We use interesting materials, considered and intriguing forms and organic textures paired with a neutral palette and bold colour accents. We pay meticulous attention to detail as we recognise the emotion it can generate in people. Our success is down to the uniqueness of each design. No in-house formula but what’s best for the client and best for the project; a cross-section of styles, avoiding uniformity or today’s passing trends. Each project has its own story and identity that sets it apart. Design means extracting the essence of an idea and seeing what can be developed from it. Take one client with a passionate interest in fashion: we used the couture sketching principle of “nine heads”, whereby the head is an index for the

Not influenced by passing trends or a set aesthetic, Lawson Robb takes a bespoke approach to every project

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Patience, enthusiasm and surrounding yourself with a good team are

crucial to creating a successful business. ◆ It’s important to remain flexible and willing to try new things to help you meet your goals. ◆ Focusing on customers, including what they want, how they feel and where to find them, can improve your results. 172 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘DESIGN MEANS EXTRACTING THE ESSENCE OF AN IDEA AND SEEING WHAT CAN BE DEVELOPED FROM IT’ proportions of the body and how it is dressed, applying that rule of proportion everywhere from joinery to ceiling layouts. We use AI in the early stage of concept imagineering. Instead of hours or days researching images to convey our ideas, we can quickly deliver a mood taster that captures our vision. I’m optimistic on AI’s potential to limit time drains on highvalue talent by processing low-value tasks, freeing human minds for the important time and headspace to pay clients the right degree of attention, talking about their private projects, giving reassurance.’ George Wolstenholme, Creative Lead

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Eighteen months ago, we made the bold call to operate a focused team of designers working on the right projects, not every single one that comes to the door.

2 3

Today in 2024 our order book pays back that decision; happy clients and more commissions awarded on the strength of it.

Our reputation from previous work has fostered new collaborations on specialist projects, confirmation that we’re doing the right thing and going in the right direction.

We recently completed a full villa refurbishment in Dubai, mastering the project coordination and partnerships needed to achieve the highest quality in the environment.

In 2023, we were appointed to our second superyacht project, Haze II, an existing client placing his trust in us to create a fully custom interior.

LAWSON ROBB 29 Milner St, London SW3 2QD +44 (0)20 7351 9383 lawsonrobb.com lawson_robb

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GBB 2024 —— L

LIFE KITCHENS A fifth-generation family-run business, delivering inspiring kitchens

‘L

ife Kitchens is a leading, fifth generation, British family business, first established over 110 years ago. We set out to inspire and deliver beautiful spaces that suit both the homeowner’s tastes and the heritage of the home itself. From sleek modern slab to ornate shaker, we have honed our craft across a range of interior styles, so there is something for everyone. A kitchen is an important purchase, so our job is to make it enjoyable – which is why people are at the heart of what we do. We want customers to know that we are with them at each stage of their project, from their initial design consultation to the first cup of tea in their new kitchen. Our team of designers are on hand at both showrooms in Wimbledon and Waterloo to support with anything they may need, from browsing samples to discussing layouts. From our perspective, technology signif icantly supports our showrooms and their capacity to inspire someone’s designs, helping customers to visualise their chosen components to design in a fully realised space. We manufacture in-house, from cabinetry and paint finishing to precision-made bespoke work surfaces. In an ever-changing digital landscape, we believe it is important to embrace change and take it in our stride. We have applied AI technology

Every Life Kitchen is highly individualised, created with the customer and their lifestyle in mind

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The showrooms are paramount to our success, serving as a dynamic

and visually immersive space to inspire customers. ◆ Innovation is key to keeping our brand ahead of the trends and a leading player within the industry. ◆ We learnt very quickly that a balanced collaboration between us and our customers is essential. 174 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘LIFE KITCHENS IS ALL ABOUT KITCHENS FOR LIVING, MERGING STYLE AND AESTHETIC WITH DAY-TO-DAY FUNCTIONALITY’ to greatly improve productivity and efficiency. AI software can automate small and repetitive tasks, freeing up our talented team’s time to focus on more creative and complex work. As a result, we have been able to maximise the possibilities for our customers’ projects. Life Kitchens is all about kitchens for living, merging style and aesthetic with day-to-day functionality. Storytelling allows us to give a personalised experience that resonates with our customers. As a result, they trust in us to bring their dream kitchen to life.’ Oliver Stephenson, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

Opening the doors of our first showroom in London’s Waterloo in 2018, bringing a diverse collection of kitchens to the marketplace. Being awarded the Kitchen Showroom of the Year prize by BKU magazine in 2019.

Opening our second showroom on Wimbledon High Street three years later in 2022 with a rich display of modern and classic kitchens, with the largest showcase of 1909 Kitchens, quintessentially British in-frame timber designs with a smooth painted finish.

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Designing a stunning, in-frame kitchen for England rugby legend, Will Greenwood in 2023.

The same year, launching our trade exclusive partnership in which we support industry experts in the design, build and creation of beautiful kitchens.

LIFE KITCHENS 3 High Street, Wimbledon London SW19 5DX +44 (0)20 3972 0150 life-kitchens.co.uk life_kitchens

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GBB 2024 —— L

LINLEY

Taking craft to unparalleled levels of excellence, originality and beauty

‘P

eople commonly associate our brand with exquisite marquetry boxes. However, our company encompasses various facets, including our interior design department that recently completed an impressive house in Holland Park. Additionally, our fitted furniture business extends to kitchens, wine cellars, gun cabinets, boot and gun rooms, cinemas, wardrobes, and more. The scope is limitless – if you can imagine it, we can create it.

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Our bespoke design business thrives on challenges. Clients may present us with inspirational ideas, ranging from side tables to bars. Recently, we crafted a remarkable coffee table featuring a hidden humidor, reminiscent of something from a James Bond film. Retail constitutes a significant portion of our business, offering everything from intricate keyrings to our remarkable £270,000 Tectonic bar. Few companies globally can design for general sale at this level of creative sophistication. When I joined, the departments operated in isolation, defined by disciplines, but I’ve encouraged collaboration across the entire design spectrum. This crossdisciplinary approach has proven beneficial, for example, allowing furniture designers to understand how interior designers envision a client’s lifestyle, encouraging a more holistic and much broader approach to how we design each piece. When you think of LINLEY, you think of heritage, craftsmanship, and the human, emotional involvement in a piece. I consider how cars during the Fifties and Sixties were often handcrafted. Designers relied on sketches and models, with emphasis on the human touch and craftsmanship. Today, designers use software to create detailed 3D models, allowing for precision and efficiency. While this can speed up the design process, some argue that it may lack the tactile and artistic qualities associated with handcrafted design. Despite the advancements of AI, I don’t foresee its creative use within our company. AI lacks the ability to capture the nuances of craft that render a piece exquisite and unique, qualities integral to LINLEY’s identity.’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

Launching LINLEY’s Alba collection, Michael Keech’s debut as Creative Director for Masterpiece 2019.

Collaborating with artist Jonathan Yeo in 2019 to create an art-led furniture piece, a daybed.

Working on a Palladian-style residential project in Yorkshire with Adam Architecture, completed in 2022, the largest house built in the UK at the time.

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Showcasing our Odyssey Kitchen in Harrods, February 2020, the only kitchen display in Harrods to date.

Witnessing the team adapt and perform during the pandemic, utilising technology to maintain business operations, launch new collections, and fulfill bespoke commissions.

LINLEY 60 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8LP +44 (0)20 8068 4206 davidlinley.com linleylondon

LINLEY has become a by-word for the finest British design and craftsmanship

Michael Keech, Creative Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Linley design, though often recognised for a particular style, conceals

a deeper and more extensive creative prowess behind the scenes. ◆ Every client is treated as an individual, and exceeding their expectations brings immense satisfaction. ◆ Diverse projects thrive on skill, adaptability, and collaborative teamwork. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 177

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GBB 2024 —— L

LOCK & CO. The oldest hat shop in the world still dressing and turning heads

‘I

magine a proper, traditional British gentleman: wearing a Savile Row suit, shoes from Northampton and probably one of our hats. Our look is distinctly classic, very London. We had a record year in 2023 and a phenomenal Ascot, with huge demand for ladies’ bespoke and men’s top hats. We also sold a lot of beanies, baseball caps and bucket hats. Winter caps always sell because males of all ages want to look like David Beckham and there’s the popularity of Peaky Blinders and films like Kingsman. We’ve always worked with the Bond films, which influence the hat market enormously, recently formalising our partnership with 007. Now you can buy the same hat that Sean Connery wears in the first three movies. To celebrate the coronation, we made a Highgrove panama to raise money for the King’s Foundation and that was a recordbreaking bestseller. We’ve been asked for Father Christmas hats before but we eschew cheap, synthetic gimmicks. But in 2023 we thought we’d make the Christmas hat to end all Christmas hats, something the big man himself would like, and did a limited edition of 30 in Dupion silk. They sold out in 20 hours, so we’ll do another limitededition this year. We’re also creating a panama to raise money for Brain Tumour Research and one for QEST, promoting young craftspeople, plus three baseball caps for Highgrove, a Goldfinger anniversary hat and a Vesper hat. Though we’ll

Lock & Co. was founded in 1676 and has been making the finest headwear ever since

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Treat your teams incredibly well, and they will try incredibly hard. ◆ The

experience is as valuable as the product for our customers – we sell more than just hats – we sell memories. ◆ The demand for quality is higher than ever. People prefer to buy once, very well, and we look after Lock hats for life. 178 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WITH HATS THERE’S NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THAT ONE-TO-ONE SERVICE AND EXPERTISE WE’RE PROUD TO OFFER’ have our women’s ready-towear collection, we’ll also have a beautiful couture collection for Ascot as people’s desire to have something unique is on the rise. As a traditional business we’d never employ technology to supplement or replace people, though we might use tech for trying on hats online. However, ultimately with headwear, there’s no substitute for that one-to-one service and expertise that we’re proud to offer.’ Ben Dalrymple, Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

When Admiral Lord Nelson visited Lock & Co. for the first time in 1800 to buy his signature bicorne complete with eyeshade. His last recorded visit was in September 1805.

When nobleman Edward Coke commissioned Lock & Co. to design a hat for his gamekeepers in 1849. Lock commissioned its reliable supplier, Thomas Bowler & Son, to make it and the result is the nowiconic Coke hat – or Bowler hat.

When Sir Winston Churchill wore a Lock & Co. silk top hat on his wedding day in 1908. He returned to Lock & Co. in 1911 to order his trademark Cambridge and Homburg hats.

When Lock & Co. designed the fitments for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation crown in 1953 in conjunction with crown jeweller Garrard – it was seen by over 20 million people worldwide.

Launching the official partnership with 007 in 2022, formally establishing a long-standing relationship.

LOCK & CO. 6, St. James’s Street London SW1A 1EF +44 (0)20 7930 8874 lockhatters.com lockhatters

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GBB 2024 —— L

LOUISE BRADLEY

Exceptional design that has the power to transform not just our surroundings but also our wellbeing

‘M

uch has happened since I started my business 33 years ago – there have been highs, lows, recessions, a pandemic, and now AI – but the one constant has been my desire to create refined interiors that exceed expectations and deliver timeless, functional homes that enhance people’s lifestyles. Achieving this is a process that first involves meeting people to take a brief. Sometimes they have only a vague vision of what they are hoping to create, so intuition and instinct are needed. It’s a designer’s privilege to interpret, articulate and ultimately bring dreams to life. We try to get to the heart of what makes people happy – the colours that help them relax, the textures that comfort them – and from there design a space that reflects their lives and who they are. We provide a concept to completion service, which includes all aspects of design, spatial planning, interior architecture and bespoke soft furnishings. We work on properties of all sizes, from bijoux apartments to historic estates, both in the UK and overseas. Resilience, adaptability and innovation are key to our longevity: we reimagine the LB Furniture Collection, adding new products, each year, and in 2021, I published my first book, Interior, celebrating 30 years of designing unique homes. Building strong relationships is essential: we have several clients who’ve been with us for decades, and we’ve worked on multiple homes for them. I’ve always made good use of technology, championing it within the studio, and encouraging the team to engage with new developments, including design tools that can improve efficiencies and help with 3D visualisations or product design and ChatGPT. AI will certainly reveal ground-breaking ways of working, but it will never substitute for the close relationships we have with clients and suppliers, and our continued curiosity or creativity in design.’

Louise Bradley is known for her classic contemporary aesthetic, with clean lines and an fresh palette

Louise Bradley, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Excellent design has the power to transform not only our surroundings

but also our physical and mental wellbeing. ◆ If you are clear in your vision, external factors can prove to be the challenge you need to succeed. ◆ Those who hire us are at the heart of our business; exceeding their expectations is always our primary aim. 180 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Opening our first showroom in Walton Street, in Chelsea, London, in 1991. It was an enormous high and for months, I felt a rush of adrenaline each time I walked in.

The launch of our first LB Furniture Collection in 2005. It was such an exciting expansion, and it really helped us to consolidate the LB look.

Taking premises in 2009 within London’s Brompton Cross Design Studio and Showroom. It’s home to other leading international design companies so is perfect for us.

Celebrating our 30th anniversary in 2021 with the release of my first book, Interior, which gives insights into the creative thinking behind some of our most notable projects.

The longevity of the relationships we have built with our clients over the past 30 years is a source of enormous pride. Some have been with me since the start.

LOUISE BRADLEY Kimbolton Court 117B Fulham Road London SW3 6RL +44 (0)20 7589 1442 louisebradley.co.uk louisebradleyinteriors

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‘IT’S AN INTERIOR DESIGNER’S PRIVILEGE TO INTERPRET, ARTICULATE AND ULTIMATELY BRING DREAMS TO LIFE’

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GBB 2024 —— M

MARTIN KEMP DESIGN Creators of some of the most sophisticated interiors in the world

‘W

e’re an independent design studio, creating sophisticated interiors for private homes, residential developments, marine and aviation. We service the extreme high-end luxury sector, aiming to satisfy very discerning briefs, given to us by extraordinary individuals and families around the world, commissioning an exceptional level of design, construction and finish. We’re not planning to use artificial intelligence at present, as to us residential design comes from the mind, hands and eyes. It’s more spiritual and intuitive and not yet something that we would instruct a robot to do. I think perhaps if we were architects, it might be slightly different, because there’s a substantial engineering element in that field, where technical detailing and calculation comes into play. With our work, it’s somewhat more decorative – not that I’m making light of what we do, far from it. But I can’t yet see how AI would affect our creativity on a daily basis. Of course, there may be instances where it is going to become advantageous. The current digitised world can influence us in terms of research – and we make good use of computer programmes to produce renderings of our interiors – but essentially, it’s our instinctive feel for texture, for colour, for aroma which dominates. I find my own background and upbringing continually charge my thoughts in terms of how to lay something out,

Martin Kemp (left) has created a luxury design studio for extreme high-end projects

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Be humble: it gets you everywhere. If you’re humble, people feel they

can talk to you. ◆ Be respectful: if you’re respectful, people see that you are not a challenge. ◆ Be polite: if you’re polite, people understand that you’ve got very good ethics, and morals. 182 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘THERE’S AN INNATE NATURE TO INTERIOR DESIGN THAT KICKS IN. I AM UNSURE IF THAT CAN EVER BE ACHIEVED DIGITALLY’ or how to put a picture on a wall, or where to put a lamp in a room. My mother was passionate about creating a sense of home and a sense of love. She achieved that through decorating. She wasn’t a professional decorator at all, but she had an intrinsic sense of home through her warm, cosy approach, eclecticism and simplicity. That undoubtedly influenced me growing up and into adulthood. There’s an innate nature to interior design that kicks in. I am unsure if that can ever be achieved digitally.’ Martin Kemp, founder and Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Moving to Los Angeles in 2002 to expand my design horizons. Having always had a passion for this city where design and creativity abounds, this was the happiest experience.

Becoming Creative Director at Candy & Candy in 2004: relocating to London, bringing me into contact with the inspirational Nick and Chris, taking design to new levels.

Launching Martin Kemp Design in 2012, a return to being a small business, albeit with a global vision to bring accomplished design to the discerning.

Being awarded the 2013 Clarges Mayfair Development project in Piccadilly with Squire and Partners as architect, a significant achievement for our relatively unknown studio.

Opening Martin Kemp Design in New York last year was another milestone in our story, enabling us to pursue yet more very exciting projects.

MARTIN KEMP DESIGN Greencoat House, Francis Street, London SW1P 1DH +44 (0)20 7183 3885 martinkempdesign.com martin_kemp_design

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GBB 2024 —— ACTING

theLIST

18 Acting Stars of Tomorrow Who are the prestigious talents to keep your eye on this year? asks Screen International’s FIONNUALA HALLIGAN

Safia’s film debut – in the lead role, no less – was Andrew Cumming’s The Origin, an independent prehistoric horror that earned her a BIFA for best breakthrough performance.

Arthur Hughes

Arthur, who plays Ruairi Donovan in The Archers, took on the title role of Disney+ Tudor-set miniseries Shardlake, also starring Sean Bean.

Rory Fleck Byrne

Star of the supernatural series Lockwood & Co., Ruby is starring in the Paramount+ six-part adaptation of C J Tudor novel The Burning Girls. Her ambition? ‘I would love to direct theatre. I’m excited to tell stories.’

New roles for Rory included a bisexual talkshow host in the second season of Australian TV series The Newsreader; TV series The Inheritance; and indie dramas Falling Into Place and In Camera.

Stephen McMillan

Stephen starred in the Boiling Point spinoff TV series, as well as playing a member of an IRA safe-house cell in 1970s London in Dead Shot.

Ruby Stokes

Natey Jones

Since starring as the protagonist of Dionne Edwards’ debut feature, Pretty Red Dress, Natey has been back-toback with theatre projects.

Marisa Abela

Playing the late musician Amy Winehouse in Sam Taylor-Johnson’s upcoming biopic Back To Black, Marisa was last seen in Barbie.

Mia McKennaBruce

Cast in the breakthrough lead role in How To Have Sex, Mia has just given birth to her first child and is excited about impending motherhood, and new opportunities when she returns to work.

PHOTOS: PETER SEARLE/SCREEN INTERNATIONAL; PHOTOGRAPHED AT BFI SOUTHBANK

Safia Oakley-Green

Leo Woodall

Last seen as Jack in The White Lotus, Leo landed the coveted role of Dexter in the adaptation of David Nicholls’ One Day, soon to air.

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David Jonsson

PHOTOS: PETER SEARLE/SCREEN INTERNATIONAL; PHOTOGRAPHED AT BFI SOUTHBANK

After UK romantic comedy Rye Lane premiered last year, the film’s male star David was introduced to Steven Spielberg. ‘He goes, “I just wanted to meet you.” And I’m a mess,’ he laughs. David is now filming the latest Alien franchise.

Kit Connor

Though only 19, Kit Connor has been working as an actor for over a decade, having been catapulted to fame by hit Netflix show Heartstopper. Kit has wrapped filming the male romantic lead in A Cuban Girl’s Guide To Tea And Tomorrow, and Belfastshot whodunit One Of Us.

Bilal Hasna

Since starting out just three years ago with no formal training, UK-Palestinian actor Bilal notes that he has never been put forward for a role that, he says, 'feels like a stereotype’. This is certainly true of his big-break part as Kash in Extraordinary.

Posy Sterling

Posy is the lead role in UK indie drama Lollipop, which tells of a woman who, fresh out of prison, finds barriers in her path towards regaining custody of her two children. ‘I read the script seven times before I auditioned and I fell in love with it,’ she says.

Ronke Adekoluejo

Graduating from RADA in 2013, Ronke was spotted by Mark Rylance, who recommended her to Steven Spielberg for a part in Ready Player One. Her plan is to act in one play a year, ‘just to feel like myself’, and to do enough television so she can ‘pay someone to sort out my garden’.

Emily Fairn

A naughty drug addict in Bafta-nominated BBC drama The Responder was Emily's first professional role. Since then, she has been working ‘pretty back-to-back’, including in Sky One's political thriller Cobra.

Samuel Bottomley

Nominated for a Bafta for his role in Somewhere Boy, Samuel then featured in UK indie drama How To Have Sex, which won the top prize in the Un Certain Regard section at Cannes Film Festival.

Sky Yang

A Saturday acting class landed Sky Yang a role in Madam Butterfly in the West End. Now the sky’s the proverbial limit for him, having secured the starring role in Fast & Furious franchise director Justin Lin’s The Last Days Of John Allen Chau.

Amaka Okafor

Hit series Bodies saw Amaka play the lead detective. In addition to this and 2022 TV series The Responder, Amaka was in indie comedy drama Sweet Sue by Leo Leigh, and at the Royal Court Theatre in Hope Has A Happy Meal.

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GBB 2024 —— M Molton Brown combines luxury and sustainability with its unique formulas. Eaux de Parfum collection (below)

MOLTON BROWN An exquisite world of fragrance-fuelled products

‘W

e started out as a family-founded hair salon on South Molton Street in 1971 and were one of the first British brands never to test on animals in creating our 100 percent vegetarian formulas. Today, we help customers be kinder to the earth without compromising on the luxury they love. As British makers of fragrance, we operate in a category that is about creating trust and memories – moments that people love to feel in person. That’s why our passionate team of in-store experts are just as key as ever. Having conversations gives customers a deeper insight, and we can help individuals choose

Regent Street Flagship Store (below) and Recharge Black Pepper Bath & Shower Gel (right)

what’s right for them. This is why we’re investing in the transformation of our retail estate, including our Regent Street flagship. Customers can take advantage of our signature services from one-on-one advice, personalisation, and masterclasses, to hand and arm massages and tailored giftwrapping – it’s the real-life, unique Molton Brown experience. We take a hybrid approach to technology though. iPads are stationed instore which customers can use to experience personalised fragrance consultations through our interactive “Fragrance Finder” tool which cleverly matches their personality to a scent. When it comes to digital, fragrance is so much more than

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ True luxury can and should live hand-in-hand with sustainability – it is

our responsibility to provide customers with product solutions that deliver on both. ◆ Beauty isn’t one ideal definition: it means something different to everyone. ◆ To stay faithful to our authentic selves and our enduring beliefs as we ebb and flow with trends in a way that is meaningful to us. 186 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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a one-click purchase and we’re investigating how best to interpret this. Online and on social, customers can discover editorial round-ups of our heritage, how-to guides, inspiring ideas and influencer partnerships. AI is reshaping retail – as we enhance our digital customer experience, we’re exploring the potential of AI to bridge the gap in assisted purchases. Especially as selling fragrance online comes with its own unique set of challenges. Specifically, we’re looking into how this technology has the power to deliver personalised product recommendations. We’re raring to lead the charge with more innovative plans to develop our technology ecosystem for the future.’

The Refillable Collection: Infinite Bottle, Re-charge Black Pepper Bath & Shower Gel Refill Pouch, Orange & Bergamot Aroma Reeds, Orange & Bergamot Aroma Reed Refill

Beatrice Descorps, Vice President of Global Marketing

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Molton Brown is founded as a hair salon in 1971 by Michael Collis and Caroline Burstein in Mayfair.

Being awarded a Royal Warrant in 2012 from Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for commitment to the highest standards of quality.

3 4

Reimagining the collection of eaux de parfum and toilette in 2019 to create unique fragrances using the finest quality ingredients. Transforming the flagship Regent Street store in 2023, with sustainability at its heart: refillable collections in pride of place; cork floor and wall tiles; all props sourced secondhand.

The 2023 launch of the ‘lowimpact, high-luxury’ Infinite Bottle collection, featuring a refillable bath and shower gel bottle made from 100 percent recycled aluminium (which is infinitely recyclable) and refill pouches. The brand announces that 50 percent of products will be reusable or refillable by 2030.

MOLTON BROWN 227 Regent Street London W1B 2EF +44 (0)20 7493 7319 moltonbrown.co.uk moltonbrown

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‘TODAY, WE HELP CUSTOMERS BE KINDER TO THE EARTH WITHOUT COMPROMISING ON THE LUXURY THEY LOVE’

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GBB 2024 —— M

MULBERRY

Committed to creating beautiful leather bags that are made to last

‘L

ast year saw us make progress towards our Made to Last Manifesto, launched in 2021. We have begun working with partners to build the framework for a hyperlocal, hyper-transparent supply chain of regenerative farms in the UK, and continued to pioneer circularity globally, as well as submitting our proposed reduction targets to the Science Based Targets Initiative. In September we were proud to collaborate with Stefan Cooke, which was the first time we have worked on a capsule spotlighting our pre-loved product. The collaboration saw them work closely with our craftspeople in Somerset to not only bring a pre-loved product back to life, but re-interpret it in a modern way. It was a great success, and now we have requests for the bags from all over the world. In the same month, we also hosted a series of travelling pop-ups in four cities in China to mark the launch of our Mulberry Exchange program in the region. We presented our pre-loved collection, offered visitors the opportunity to discover Mulberry’s craft expertise through customising our bestselling Bayswater, and previewed Digital ID technology. Digital IDs provide customers with information about their bag, it is a way of authenticating a product and will create a direct and ongoing connection between Mulberry and our customers for the entire lifecycle of the product. This is a technology that we are in the process of implementing at Mulberry. I’m hoping AI will help us further revolutionise our relationship with our customers. From my point of view AI is a means of having really sophisticated CRM to fully understand the customer and what they want in order to reach them in an appropriate and personalised way.’ Thierry Andretta, CEO

Mulberry is committed to British manufacturing and craftmanship

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Always listen to your team. ◆ Constantly innovate. ◆ Be open – you can

learn from a variety of points of view that differ from your own.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The Bayswater bag, first introduced in 2003, immediately became a brand favourite, and celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2023 with a series of global activations.

Opening the second UK factory, The Willows, in Bridgwater, Somerset in 2013, reinforcing Mulberry’s dedication to manufacturing.

Establishing three business entities, Mulberry North Asia, Mulberry Korea and Mulberry Japan, in 2018 continuing the brand’s focus on international growth.

Announcing the Made to Last Manifesto in 2021 to celebrate Mulberry’s 50th anniversary, and laying out a commitment to transform the business to a regenerative and circular model by 2030.

Announcing in 2022 that one hundred percent of our leather is now from environmentally accredited tanneries, while all our leather is now carbon neutral achieved through offsetting with the World Land Trust.

MULBERRY 100 Regent Street London W1B 5SR +44 (0)20 7042 3770 mulberry.com mulberryengland

‘I’M HOPING AI WILL HELP US FURTHER REVOLUTIONISE OUR RELATIONSHIP WITH OUR CUSTOMERS’

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GBB 2024 —— REGENERATIVE LEADERSHIP

Nature has wise ways of working with systems and we should look to her for solutions to our many problems

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WE ARE NATURE

Giles Hutchins tells LUCY CLELAND why we need to look to the trees if we truly want to transform our businesses

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here are myriad ways to show just how important our relationship with trees is. Just witness the outpouring of grief when the Sycamore Gap tree was ruthlessly felled in September. Before that, the Druids believed they descended from trees – men coming from the Alder; women from the Rowan. The native American Calchaquís worshipped the spirits of local trees and Hindus believe every tree has a deity, who is to be respected and given offerings. In fact, wherever humans have settled, trees have been considered sacred. But it’s not just spirituality and religion that connect us. There is empirical evidence that we are far more closely related to them than we may think, despite having become distanced from them in our nature-depleted lives. Firstly, the soil beneath our feet is full of mycelia (fungi/mushroom threads), which are sentient, constantly exchanging information as well as nutrients. Astonishingly, and humbling, one handful has more living beings in it than there are human beings on the entire planet. Just stop and consider that for a moment. Secondly, the air around us is full of billions of bacteria, some of which can live to over a million years. Bacteria have extremely sophisticated ways of communicating, leaving human language in the dust for its communicative primitivity. Thirdly, walking in the woods is a science in itself: just ask the Japanese, whose shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) is a science based on aromatic compounds in the woods that have healing benefits. And, finally, every living being gives and receives electromagnetic signals. We have barely scratched the surface of knowing how this may affect us in beneficial ways as we walk among the trees. You may well ask, ‘what has this to do with business?’ It’s a question a group of us are pondering at Springwood, a 60-acre woodland in the Sussex countryside, tended over by Giles Hutchins, a regenerative leadership coach, who works with leaders to begin to help reset their relationship with their businesses by learning from nature; moving away from a mechanistic, hierarchical mindset to a regenerative, collaborative one. And trees, it turns out, are a great master. Giles conducts all his workshops in the woods, winter or summer, sun or rain – inviting his guests, through various activities, whether it’s looking at lichen on bark through a magnifying glass to really see the life going on all around us, or through being silent as we tread beneath rhododendron canopies, to tune into the energy of the woods and to our own presence. And, most of all, to feel our way to new and imaginative ways of thinking rather than just relying on our

addled and overwrought left brain hemispheres (verbal, analytical, and orderly rather than the creative, visual and intuitive right side) to get there. Too long, he believes, have we disassociated ourselves from nature and her gifts, leading us, among other outcomes, to the climate crisis from which only radical systemic change can help pull us back from the brink. A little too touchy-feely for some, maybe, but more and more leaders – just ask those from Chloé, Deloitte, McKinsey, HSBC, Unilever, McCain, BP, Aviva and more who have walked with Giles among the trees – are seeking ways to change the status quo of ‘business as usual’, which we all – whether consciously or not – recognise is broken. Regenerative leadership in business is understanding that problemsolving done in the same way as the problem-creation is probably not going to save the planet or make us feel nourished as humans. What is required is a whole systemic shift in thinking about our businesses – retaining the useful elements of organisation and frameworks, of course, but freeing ourselves. Which is why we’re here, being shown the most beautiful, intricate, wondrous and clever system of them all: Mother Nature. If we could only look to her, learn from her, remember that we are part of her, imagine what a synergistic, collaborative, interlinked and respectful home we could create.

BUSINESS IS CHANGING. THE RISE OF THE B CORP MOVEMENT AND SOCIAL-IMPACT ENTREPRENEURS ARE SHOWING THAT IT DOESN’T JUST HAVE TO EXIST FOR SHAREHOLDER PROFIT BUT CAN LEARN HOW TO BE RESTORATIVE AND REGENERATIVE TO BOTH PEOPLE AND PLANET – WE JUST HAVE TO WALK AMONG THE TREES

Six Ways to Think Regeneratively BY GILES HUTCHINS

Think in systems, networks and relationships

Since the Industrial Revolution, we’ve been conditioned to think mechanistically, viewing our businesses as something to manage and control in a top-down fashion with push-pull, carrot-stick levers, exploiting assets (including ‘human resources’) for short-term returns. This system – of business as machine – tends to undermine the future-fitness of the organisation in increasingly volatile and fast-moving climes. When power and control reside at the top, decision-making becomes far removed from the customer, and employees too can feel disempowered, robotic and inauthentic. In fact, Harvard Business School research tells us most leaders and employees are doing a second job no one is paying them for – that of managing other people’s impressions of themselves, covering up their weaknesses, playing politics, hiding uncertainties. This is not a recipe for success, undermining our

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REGENERATIVE LEADERSHIP —— GBB 2024

individual and collective brilliance. Therefore, it pays to begin to think of the organisation less as a machine and more as an ecosystem full of human connectivity – between employees, customers, suppliers, partners, advisors, investors, social media advocates, families and friends, local communities, ecologies, etc – with a reciprocity that thrives on trust. As a business leader, reflecting on and tuning into the inter-relational nature of these systems helps to sense where there’s flow, impasse or latency waiting to be realised, or opportunities for transformation. Rather than chief executive officer think chief ecosystem officer – constantly scanning the relational systems to sense where there’s emerging potential.

Recognise that the inner and outer aspects of the business are inextricably linked

The ‘inner-nature’ of the livingorganisation is its culture – not some HR charter or values poster on the wall, but the day-to-day ways in which people show up, share, exchange tacit knowledge, gossip on social media, co-create and connect in and out of the office. The ‘outer-nature’ is its brand, external communications, PR, stakeholder relationships, and impact on various groups outside the business. Both natures are connected so it will show up clearly in either aspect whether or not a business truly values authenticity, e nc o u r a g e s courageous conversations, gives constructive feedback and offers developmental learning, or keeps within the machine mindset. Successful businesses will be those that synergise the inner and outer aspects so that all elements feel deeply connected.

FROM TOP: An illustration of Springwood leadership immersions, captured by artist Jodie Harburt (jodieharburt.com); Giles Hutchins spends as much time out of doors as possible

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GBB 2024 —— REGENERATIVE LEADERSHIP Vivobarefoot is a brand that is on its journey to becoming regenerative, and regularly engages with Giles at Springwood

local and global awareness), it supports a variety of initiatives involved in regenerating local ecosystems, which sparks all sorts of synergies and reconnects company success with social and ecological progress. Globally, it is involved in networks and conferences that work on societywide solutions, such as the B Corp movement and United Nations COP conferences. This ‘glocal’ perspective challenges a narrowed view of wealth-creation limited to maximising short-term financial returns for shareholders, to thinking of wealth more holistically, in terms of regenerating community, nature, society and our home, Earth, upon which we all ultimately depend.

Think circular not linear

A vital part of future-fit business is the widening of the businesslens from merely transactional i.e. from a focus on selling stuff to customers in a linear one-way process, to participatory and circular, where customers re-engage with suppliers for recycling and upcycling services. Take one of my clients, the award-winning Vivobarefoot, which recycles worn shoes, thus keeping them out of landfill, and engages with customers – through offering 3D foot-scanning for customised shoes, and hosting online courses, tools and coaching, such as learning to run and breathwork. More often, the value we attribute to such exchanges is not limited to the price tag on the good or service. The organisations with the best ability to work with these relationships and exchanges across the board will be the most adept at navigating the emerging business landscape.

Think inter-generational and ‘glocal’

Amid the short-termism of many business decisions, many of us think individually about the kind of future we’re leaving for the next generation. While regenerative acts – such as composting, not wasting food or helping our neighbours – can happen at home, they should happen in our businesses too. Asking whether a business venture is actually enhancing life as opposed to just reducing its negative impacts does not distract us from our business endeavours, but deepens the creativity we unleash for doing things that provide proper value for the world. For example, Vivobarefoot is transforming its operations, supplychain and organisational culture toward the principles of regeneration. Therefore, as well as making its products far more sustainable, it has evolved into being a natural lifestyle brand, where opportunities such as rewilding experiences are offered. And by acting ‘glocally’ (with

Think life-centric

As we get used to seeing the organisation-as-living-system, we start to value the importance of learning from life itself, in recognising that nature thrives through ever-changing inter-related systems within systems, just like our living-organisations. We participate in this life-centric reality whether we’re conscious of it or not. Each unique individual employee’s essence finds its tune within the team-essence, within the wider organisationalessence that finds its tune within wider systemic interplays (business ecosystem, society, Earth). When we open up to life in this way, we realise that humans are immersed in a web of relationships, and to harm any of them is to damage our own selves and undermine our home. This life-centric sense of interconnectedness can inform how we lead and operate in business and beyond.

Think tensions, and the power they unleash

Learning to be comfortable with the uncomfortable is an important leadership skill. Tensions between individuals are inevitable, but handled correctly by working through them rather than suppressing them, can create crucibles for creativity. We can also learn from seeing how nature’s creative advance is impelled by tensions. There’s the primary tension of yin-yang, for instance. Yin represents stillness, inner-being, receptivity, and compassion; yang represents movement, outer-doing, responsiveness, and assertion. We need both in business. Sometimes we might need a little more yang, sometimes more yin. There’s also the divergence-convergence tension. Divergence is opening-up, creativity, exploration, etc; convergence is bringing-together, cohering around a sense of purpose, having clear roles, and suchlike. Too much divergence and chaos ensues; too much convergence leads to rigidity. Getting that tension just right is essential to allow for emergence. All living systems express themselves through the selfgenerating, self-organising property of emergence. Businesses are no different. Living-systems thrive on this edge of chaos (divergence) and order (convergence), and it’s that edge that enables adaptability and vitality across the living-organisation. Giles Hutchins is a pioneering practitioner, keynote speaker, and executive coach known for his work in leadership development. His latest book is Leading by Nature: The Process of Becoming a Regenerative Leader (Wordzworth, £23.99) n

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N O

GBB 2024

NAIM AUDIO 196 NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES 198 NEATSMITH 200 NEILL STRAIN FLORAL COUTURE 202

NEW & LINGWOOD 204 NINA CAMPBELL 208 OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS 210 OSKIA 212 THE OWO 214

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GBB 2024 —— N

NAIM AUDIO Exceptional audio and classic good looks

‘W

e celebrated our 50th anniversary in 2023 with big plans for the future and new products on the way. Naim Audio will never lose sight of its founding vision: to deliver a pure experience of music that is as close as possible to its original live source, and to create a profound, emotional connection between consumers and their favourite artists and tracks. However, we are also shifting towards a more modern mindset: we can learn from the likes of Apple and Google, which excel at marketing, customer interaction and – importantly – at brand creation. We are a manufacturer, but in today’s world we also need to be a brand, and technology can help with this. Technology enhances what humans can conceive – it is not it or us, but it with us. Its potential is infinite, but without the ingenuity and creativity of the human brain, it is impaired. Creating sound, and the instinctive emotional reaction we have to it, is an innate human quality. Technology can literally amplify and improve what we hear, and is central to developing and making excellent products. However, a superb listening experience starts and ends with people. Our future success will certainly involve AI and whatever other new technologies come to the market, but

Naim for Bentley systems are considered the pinnacle of in-car audio

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back-up to implement them. ◆ Pick the best team for the job with the right commitment and skills to ensure the optimum outcome for each project. ◆ Success is the result of collaborative work. Again, this goes back to building the best team – people who share your vision. 196 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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I do not believe tech will ever have the creative capacity of a human. Here’s a recent illustration of what I mean. When we were developing our Bathys wireless active noisecancelling headphones, many of the key technologies involved were patented by other companies. We appeared to be stuck, but then our team, who are masters of audio, developed a new innovation, and gave us our headphones, which have already become multi awardwinners. Nothing can replace human ingenuity. It is this that will best employ technology to develop Naim Audio’s next classleading products. Cédrick Boutonet, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Beginning our collaboration with Bentley in 2008. For 16 years, our exceptional in-car audio system has been the premium choice for Bentley customers.

Working with Focal, which makes high fidelity audio systems, since 2011. Together, we’re making class-leading music players, amplifiers, headphones and loudspeakers.

3 4 5

Launching our striking Statement amplifier in 2014. It was so far ahead of its time that it’s still our flagship amplifier ten years on. Bringing our phenomenally successful Mu-so 2nd Generation wireless music system to market in 2019.

‘TECHNOLOGY’S POTENTIAL IS INFINITE, BUT WITHOUT THE INGENUITY AND CREATIVITY AND PASSION OF THE HUMAN BRAIN, IT IS IMPAIRED’

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Marking our 50th anniversary in 2023 with new products, global celebrations and a commitment to take Naim into its next half century with even more award-winning products.

NAIM AUDIO LTD Southampton Road, Salisbury SP1 2LN +44 (0) 1722 443405 naimaudio.com naimaudio

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GBB 2024 —— N

NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES Effective, organic products fuelled by ethics and integrity

‘N

eal’s Yard Remedies has always believed in the power of organic ingredients. Back in 1991, we worked with the Soil Association to create and launch the first ever organic certification standards for the beauty industry, laying the foundations for the movement towards the planet-positive products we are witnessing today. Not only do organic ingredients benefit your skin with their natural antioxidants and high levels of vitamins and minerals, but they are also much better for the environment. Cultivated without the use of pesticides and other chemicals that can find their way into the final product, organic growing helps to protect biodiversity, too. Since 2011, we’ve campaigned to protect bees, recognising their vital role in our daily lives, with one in three mouthfuls of food dependent on pollinators. Despite biodiversity being low on the government’s agenda, we successfully secured a ban on neonicotinoid pesticides in 2013 through a Downing Street petition. Today, I’m leading a coalition of over 100 British businesses and organisations dedicated to preserving British biodiversity. We’ve maintained long-term relationships with our suppliers and growers, supporting many through the process of securing organic certification. As the owner, I know what a finely balanced equation it is choosing planet over profit, but it’s firmly in our DNA to put kindness first. Our brand is built on foundations of transparency and trust, and our commitment to responsible practices is the reason our customers stay with us; a recent survey showed brand ethics is one of the most important purchase drivers – secondary only to our 27,000 five-star product reviews. Technology helps us to take the incredible stories behind our products to a wider audience – but it can’t replace the human connections that form the basis of those stories. We’re watching AI closely, and believe it can be a force for good if used ethically. I’m hopeful that it will allow us to re-focus human energy into working as a collective towards a better, kinder future. Human connection is irreplaceable for our wellbeing and is very much a foundation of our brand. Some people come into our stores simply for a chat or to ask for wellbeing advice, plus most of our stores have treatment rooms attached that literally depend on the human

Caring for planet and people has been at the heart of Neal’s Yard Remedies since it was founded in 1981

touch, which we’ll all need even more as the world becomes more digitised. We’re all in this together, sharing our planet, and our brand is more than a collection of products. It’s a tapestry of the choices that resonate between our individuals, citizens, communities and us.’ Anabel Kindersley, owner

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Collaboration and standing together are the only ways we’re going

to make meaningful changes. ◆ Stand up for what you believe to be true – for us, that’s proving that you can have high-performing skincare without compromising nature. ◆ Put kindness first across everything. We’ve always put people and the planet before profit. 198 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘HUMAN CONNECTION IS IRREPLACEABLE, AND THAT’S THE FOUNDATION OF OUR BRAND’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1991 we became Britain’s first health and beauty brand to be awarded organic certification by the Soil Association.

We launched our multipurpose Wild Rose Beauty Balm in 2004, which became a bestselling, multi-award-winning beauty editors’ favourite.

In 2008 we were the first UK high street retailer to be certified CarbonNeutral. We’ve offset our greenhouse gas emissions every year since.

In 2014 we became the first health and beauty brand to receive a score of 100/100 for ethics by The Ethical Company Organisation – and have achieved the same score every year since.

In 2018 we successfully lobbied the UK government, alongside Greenpeace and Fauna & Flora International, to #BanTheBead. We’ve never used plastic microbeads in any scrub or polish – just natural exfoliators like rosehip seeds, rice and pumice powder.

NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES 15 Neal’s Yard, London WC2H 9DP +44 (0)800 0832 111 nealsyardremedies.com nealsyardremedies

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NEATSMITH

Fine, bespoke wardrobes, offices and living rooms by a leading family firm

‘M

y father, brother and I started Neatsmith almost 20 years ago, going door to door with our samples and our brochures. We now have six showrooms spread across London and the Southeast and a 50,000 sq/ft manufacturing facility in Watford. We owe our success to selling an excellent product, designed and manufactured by excellent people, who deliver excellent service. All of our staff are full time employees – this is the only way we can make sure they share and deliver our Neatsmith standards. A large number of our clients are referrals. When people have seen the product and experienced the full Neatsmith service, from first contact to final installation, they become our biggest cheerleaders. We’re not a big corporate firm and even though we have over 80 staff Neatsmith is still very much run as a family business – our aim is to enhance people’s homes and make them look lovely and that requires warmth and intuition. We are firm believers in face-toface contact and that is why we will be opening more showrooms in the future – nothing beats seeing the product in the flesh and having a knowledgeable Neatsmith designer on hand to turn your ideas into reality. As much as we embrace new manufacturing and design technology, you aren’t likely to

Directors Phillipp, Andrew and Mathew Nagel started Neatsmith to provide high-quality, well-designed wardrobes with a service to match

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ People buy from people but you need excellent products, and the service

and processes to deliver what you promised. ◆ Design is exciting. Don’t rely on the same formula. Innovation is ongoing. Keep up. ◆ People are everything and, despite what we’re told, are not dispensable. Show them how much you value them.

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‘PEOPLE WANT TO SPEAK TO SOMEONE WHO CAN HELP, NOT TO SPEND TIME INTERACTING WITH A PIECE OF SOFTWARE’ encounter a Neatsmith chatbot anytime soon – when you ring Neatsmith a human answers the phone, and this won’t ever change. Similarly, I am not convinced that AI is the right content provider for us. Whilst we use it in a limited capacity to collate information, AI can never tell the Neatsmith story, which is about the love we and our teams put into our job – AI cannot communicate the soul of our business.’ Philipp Nagel, Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Receiving our first positive and unsolicited online review in 2006. We tried to be cool and nonchalant about it, but it really did make our year.

2 3

Being featured in Great British Brands in 2015. The whole team felt incredibly proud.

Opening our flagship store on the King’s Road in 2018. Ten years earlier we were in a converted garage in Tottenham, so it was a big moment for us.

Thomas, our first apprentice fitter, graduating in 2019. He is now well established within the team and has since been joined by four more Neatsmith-fitting graduates.

Not a moment per se, but an on-going achievement. Everyone in the company is still a full-time Neatsmith employee. We never subcontract our fitting or design.

NEATSMITH 544 King’s Rd London SW10 0UB +44 (0)20 8017 3909 neatsmith.co.uk neatsmith

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NEILL STRAIN FLORAL COUTURE

Bespoke floral couture for residences, celebrations and weddings

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PHOTOS: © BARKER EVANS

A‘

childhood interest in gardening gradually transformed into a deep passion for the art of floral design. After studying set design, I decided to pursue my true love for floristry by opening a flower boutique and stumbled upon a magnificent premises in Belgravia which led me to open my business there. Over the last 16 years my floristry style has evolved significantly, reflecting a blend of my own artistic vision and the preferences of my diverse clientele. Hailing from various corners of the world, they are drawn to my use of bold colour

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launching my boutique 16 years ago in a prime Belgravia location, allowing me to become an integral part of the community.

and texture. They also appreciate the opportunity to contribute to the design process, as their floral arrangements often convey personal messages or serve as grand gestures. I describe my work as “Floral Couture”, as it combines the use of exquisite and uncommon flowers specially sourced from champion growers in Holland, with meticulous design and exceptional service. Due to the highly bespoke nature of our work, we initiate the creative process by developing mood boards and sketches. This allows clients to envision the floral designs we will bring to life. While we collaborate with an illustrator for sketches on our more extravagant projects, we also employ computer programmes to craft proposals. Although I have yet to explore this avenue, I foresee the potential of using AI to generate imagery in response to specific briefs. Even after all these years, I remain astounded by the profound impact flowers have on people. The role of a florist is truly exceptional as we have the privilege of creating floral couture in the most intimate moments of our clients’ lives. Whether it be celebrating the birth of a child, assisting a bride in planning her wedding or providing solace to a grieving family during a funeral, flowers communicate in ways that words simply cannot.’

Although I have always made flowers for weddings and celebrations, this arm of the business officially launched in 2014.

3 4 5

Opening our concession in Harrods in 2017 and ramping up our corporate services. Opening a second boutique in Mayfair in 2023, a natural progression for the business.

I have only ever bought flowers from growers in Holland that are classified A or A+ for their sustainability by the Netherlands government. The goal is to become fully sustainable within five years.

Neill’s showstopper designs are crafted from unusual flowers grown sustainably in Holland

NEILL STRAIN FLORAL COUTURE 11 West Halkin Street Belgrave Square London SW1X 8JL +44 (0)20 7235 6469 neillstrain.com neillstrain

Neill Strain, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... PHOTOS: © BARKER EVANS

◆ Flowers have a magical effect on people. Like music or a painting,

they create emotions and people will travel to see a beautiful floral display. ◆ It’s important to surpass clients’ needs with innovative design. ◆ Our work must extend beyond arranging flowers. We believe in compositions for the senses, designing with scent, colour, and texture. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 203

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GBB 2024 —— N

NEW & LINGWOOD Heritage clothing to lift people out of the mundane

‘I

n 2023, we focused on rolling out our updated brand strategy. We launched our sustainability initiative, Re:New, with a pop up on Savile Row, started selling online in China – which was a big moment – and welcomed new people to our team. In 2024, we’re looking to consolidate our creative direction and accelerate on what we launched in 2023, but there are also a few new projects in the pipeline including relaunching our refurbished Chiltern Street store and some exciting collaborations. As a heritage brand, we always focus on sympathetically evolving our styles to fit modern life rather than pursuing a relentless drive for newness – we want to be a constant in people’s lives. Over the past few seasons, we’ve introduced more relaxed fits to our tailoring, focused our cloths on softness and texture and added new styles that suit our goal to make our customers feel at home, anywhere. In 2024, we’ll be turning our focus towards our footwear collection with that aim in mind. Because of our size, we don’t see the same benefits from leveraging AI tools that larger brands do when it comes to data analytics but I’m very much in the camp that sees it as a friend rather than

A quintessential British gentlemen’s outfitters, New & Lingwood have gained fans around the world, from America to China, in recent years

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ A heritage brand is a constant in people’s lives. ◆ Avoid the temptation

to revolutionise your brand – gently evolve it so it’s still relevant in 150 years’ time. ◆ Never lose sight of what you set out to do.

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‘PEOPLE ALWAYS LOVE THE IDEA THEY’RE BUYING SOMETHING HANDMADE BY A HUMAN’ a foe – as something that should be embraced in the appropriate settings and with the right controls. People will always love the idea they’re buying something handmade by a human. As a form of art, fashion remains inherently valuable, so I don’t see AI as a threat in that regard. However, I do think it’s important we don’t get too wrapped up in the importance of using new technology at the expense of what we’re really good at: connecting with people to create amazing customer experiences and create clothing that transforms people’s day and banishes the mundane.’ Freddie Briance, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

Celebrating 150 years in 2015 – the brand was founded in 1865 and is still going strong today. Launching in America in 2018 to bring New & Lingwood to the New York City market.

Introducing our boutique/ neighbourhood store concept in Chiltern Street in 2021 to spotlight our elevated loungewear and a modern interpretation of our brand.

Bringing back Made on Jermyn Street in 2022 – we now make over 50 percent of our dressing gowns at our Jermyn Street location, along with many of our accessories.

Launching our sustainability concept Re:New in 2023 to explore circularity and how our business needs to evolve to achieve our Net Positive goal.

NEW & LINGWOOD 53 Jermyn St, St James’s London SW1Y 6LX +44 (0)8000 835102 newandlingwood.com newandlingwood

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GBB 2024 —— HOTELS

theLIST

Ten British Hotels To Book Before You Die FIONA DUNCAN picks her bucket list places to stay

GLENEAGLES Auchterarder, Scotland

James Bond’s creator, Ian Fleming, liked to play golf at Gleneagles. These days, the luxurious hotel still draws the upper echelons of the social set, who come for the outstanding service (voted best in the world just this year), the grand 850-acre estate (boasting three of the top golf courses in Scotland) and its vast selection of food and drink (from two-Michelinstarred Andrew Fairlie to the Italian-American grill, The Birnam). gleneagles.com

BEAVERBROOK Leatherhead, Surrey

A 19th-century wedding cake of a hotel, this former home of newspaper magnate Lord Beaverbrook has charming, feminine rooms designed by Susie Atkinson. There’s renowned Japanese cuisine in The Dining Room, a 470-acre surrounding estate and The Coach House Spa, offering treatments that are a notch above the normal. All just a hop and a skip from London, too. beaverbrook.co.uk

FIFE ARMS

LIME WOOD

Lyndhurst, Hampshire

A masterpiece of modern hospitality. Opened in 2009, Lime Wood is a creative collaboration from some of the best names in the business: architects Charles Morris and Ben Pentreath oversaw the building’s redesign, while interiors were added by David Collins, Martin Brudnizki, Rob Angell and Susie Atkinson. Meanwhile, Angela Hartnett has put her stamp on the kitchen. limewoodhotel.co.uk

Braemer, Scotland

The passion project of gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the Fife Arms is stuffed with an enviable art collection – including pieces by Picasso and Man Ray. The Victorian lodge was reimagined by Russell Sage, who created an ornate yet cosy and comfortable paean to Scottish nature, history and design. thefifearms.com

MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE

Richmond, North Yorkshire

Sixteen years in the making, Middleton Lodge is the blood, sweat and tears of the Allison family. They brought the Georgian country pile back to life, imbuing it with calming earth tones, pretty printed fabrics and cosy corners. The gardens were designed by Tom Stuart-Smith, and lead to a wider 200-acre estate packed with orchards, meadows and vegetable gardens. middletonlodge.co.uk

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THE RITZ London

A hospitality icon for a reason, The Ritz has led the five-star luxury hotel industry in London since it first opened its doors in 1906. Its lavish suites are famous the world over, and its one-Michelin-starred restaurant has won a host of awards over the years. Taking tea in the ornate Palm Court is, of course, a rite of passage for Londoners and visitors alike. theritzlondon.com

LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS

A Belmond Hotel, Oxfordshire

Holding on to its two Michelin stars for almost 40 years, Le Manoir is the life’s work of its founder Raymond Blanc. As well as the award-winning restaurant, there’s also 32 hotel rooms on-site, each one unique and inspired by the chef’s travels. It’s surrounded by its extensive grounds, which are at the heart of Le Manoir’s seasonal garden-to-plate ethos. As well as the organic kitchen gardens, there’s also a Japanese water garden, mushroom valley and orchard. belmond.com

CLIVEDEN HOUSE Taplow, Berkshire

Built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham as a gift to his mistress, monumental Cliveden House is grand and glorious – and still a long-time favourite of royals and the social set alike. Its luxurious spa will restore and reenergise you, amid beautiful surroundings. clivedenhouse.co.uk

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH Tavistock, Devon

Situated next to the River Tamar in Devon, Hotel Endsleigh is a delightful cottage orné – a picturesque building designed in a charmingly rustic style, which was previously the hunting and fishing lodge of the Duke of Bedford. It’s set in 100 acres of fairytale gardens, woodlands, follies and grottos created by Humphry Repton. A true rural paradise. thepolizzicollection.com

THE GORING London

The last remaining family-owned luxury hotel in London, The Goring is luxurious, flamboyant and just good fun. Located in exclusive Belgravia, its secret weapon (on top of its 69 exquisitely ornate suites and rooms) is its huge private garden, a soothing haven in the midst of central London. thegoring.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 207

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NINA CAMPBELL The ever-popular British designer sought out globally

Nina with son Max Konig and daughter Alice Deen

‘YOU HAVE TO COMBINE TECH WITH REAL LIFE AND USE IT ONLY ONCE YOU’VE BUILT UP THE HUMAN RELATIONSHIP AND TRUST’

Nina Campbell, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Patience, enthusiasm and surrounding yourself with a good team are crucial to

success. ◆ Be clear, upfront and transparent about costs from the start. If you’re artistic and enthusiastic, people can think you’re just having fun and then be shocked by the bill. ◆ Listen closely to your client, or you won’t get it right. ◆ Look up when in the street, at fashion, and at sets in movies. Always be alert to beauty.

PHOTOS: © PAUL RAESIDE; © BEN ANDRE’S NINA CAMPBELL FOR FIRED EARTH © DAN BALL FOR NINA CAMPBELL HOME AT NEXT

‘T

he main event of 2023 was moving into our new shop on Pimlico Road. After all the anxiety and inevitable delays, the doors opened and we had such a lovely response from our neighbours, many of whom I’ve known for an awfully long time; some from my beginnings in the Seventies at 64 Pimlico Road. Having so much space allows our furniture to be shown upholstered in our fabrics – so much better than showing people a small sample. I also have my textile and interior design studios there so I can constantly interfere in everything. We also designed some tiles for Fired Earth, and a truly major collection of furniture for Next, which launched in October. It’s hard to imagine sofas flying out of the door but they did! We did a huge range – from consoles and sideboards to tables, chairs, lighting, bedding, rugs, tabletop stuff – we even designed loungewear. I looked at an AI company that could print a fabric in seconds. I don’t feel my livelihood is threatened by it as I believe if you want a really good fabric, the human hand will prevail. As for tech in general, Covid forced us to get to grips with it because we simply had to operate on Zoom with major projects in Australia, Jordan and America. It can be excellent, but you have to combine tech with real life and use it only once you’ve built up the human relationship and trust. My generation used to associate craft dismissively with macramé baskets but recently I’ve become inspired and dazzled by our British talent. Matt Livsey Hammond, a bronzesmith, designed me an extraordinary tree-like staircase and I worked with engraver David Smith on some exquisite Lalique-like glass panels. I don’t see AI ever being able to replace their phenomenal skills.’

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3 4

When I opened my first shop at 64 Pimlico Road in 1972.

Building on my brand to open my shop at 9 Walton Street in 1980, where it still does a brisk trade.

Forging a partnership with Osborne & Little in 1989, a long-standing relationship that continues to this day. Becoming a totally family-run business when my daughter, Alice Deen, joined as Head of Communications in 2009, ten years after my son Max Konig joined as Managing Director.

Coming full circle to move into our new shop and showroom, complete with interior and textile design studios, at 43 Pimlico Road in 2023.

PHOTOS: © PAUL RAESIDE; © BEN ANDRE’S NINA CAMPBELL FOR FIRED EARTH © DAN BALL FOR NINA CAMPBELL HOME AT NEXT

NINA CAMBPELL 43 Pimlico Road London SW3 2JD +44 (0)20 7725 1010 shop.ninacampbell.com ninacampbellltd

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OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS Building exceptional, quality homes in premier locations

‘W

e launched in 1980 with modest early aims – eight employees building eight houses a year, hence Octagon – but from the outset the vision was always to create high-quality homes in the best locations in London and South East England. Staying true to that consistent ethos has driven our growth for 43 years; today we build between 100 and 200 houses a year, have 110 employees and are a highly trusted brand. We’re not a volume house builder, so buyers have confidence in the quality they’ll get in their new home. Yet we pride ourselves on remaining

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

In 1986, six years after the company was founded, Octagon was one of the first developers to sell a home for £1million+ outside London.

a face-to-face business, both with clients and our own staff. AI is very much on our horizon as we constantly search for ways to improve people’s enjoyment of their homes. We monitor progress in technology very closely as our business depends on being in touch with the latest trends and what buyers want. Technology already plays an increasingly important part in our homes: international buyers tour a house without travelling, through virtual reality; heating and appliances controlled through a phone app; installing a Tesla Powerwall, a rechargeable home battery system that stores energy from solar panels or the grid, for use when you need it. Already, AI recognises and responds to living patterns – when you use a room, when it needs to be heated. We are design-led with 17 in-house architects and can work with external architects on a bespoke basis – there are no house ‘types’ for us. Currently, we have 22 live projects across the Octagon Group, including a development of seven homes in Putney, where new-builds are rare. We are two-thirds through the 126 homes planned for our flagship Broadoaks Park in West Byfleet, Surrey, a destination popular with young families, downsizers and overseas clients alike.’

Launching Octagon Interiors, our in-house end-to-end design service in late 2020, offering a unique turnkey service to complement the homes we build.

Buying the West Byfleet 25-acre plot in 2018, for what has become our Broadoaks Park development, now nearing completion.

The 2020 launch of our new venture, Chancery Homes, part of the Octagon Group, to meet industry and customer demand for high-quality, but accessibly priced housing.

I joined Octagon in 1998, embracing the high-quality ethos at its heart. In the 25 years since, I’ve had a lot of happiness and good memories.

Octagon homes are characterised by their high quality and modern – yet timeless – designs

OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS Weir House, Hurst Road, East Molesey KT8 9AY +44 (0)20 8481 7500 octagon.co.uk octagondevelopments

Tim Banks, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ I’ve learnt so much from our founder, David James; even after 25 years

at Octagon and as CEO, I learn every day. ◆ Nurture the core values that first brought success. Then you can adapt to change, staying ahead of what customers want. ◆ Our people are everything – 60 percent have been here over ten years, and our independent craftspeople are considered extended family. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 211

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GBB 2024 —— O

OSKIA

Multi-award-winning, pioneering bio-nutritional skincare that alleviates skin concerns

‘T

he inspiration for OSKIA was my own story. As a teenager, I damaged my knees so badly skiing that my prognosis for ever being able to regain full fitness was very poor. My father suggested I try MSM, a sulphur supplement he was using to treat racehorses with mobility problems. It cured my joints and, remarkably, my acne too. Fifteen years later, after a career in journalism, I remembered the extraordinary results I’d experienced from accidentally finding the right nutrient and the confidence clear skin gave me, so decided to create skincare products that would improve the complexion. I spent several years working with dermatologists, scientists, nutritionists and doctors to discover

the most effective vitamins, minerals and bio-actives and how to make them function in the skin’s cells. Finally, in 2010, we launched OSKIA. Our pioneering nutritional approach stood out, even in a congested marketplace. I describe our products as bio-nutritional because they are packed with nutrients and actives the body can absorb, recognise, and use to alleviate skin conditions. Our Violet Water range reduces acne by 35 percent in two weeks. We have an exciting year ahead. We are launching a clinic at a prestigious hotel in the north of England, and are focusing more on tech-led innovations, such as LED

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Establishing an emotional connection with your customers is critical.

The best way to do that is to be authentic. ◆ Remain true to your values. We never waiver from our foundational principles – honesty, sustainability and innovation. ◆ Create a strong identity that becomes part of your DNA. Without it you won’t succeed in a crowded marketplace. 212 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘OUR VIOLET WATER RANGE REDUCES ACNE BY 35 PERCENT IN TWO WEEKS’ light, pure oxygen, and cryotherapy, which uses low temperatures to stimulate skin regeneration. Technology is the key to innovation, but I remain sceptical about AI. I know it’s becoming the norm, and certainly it will hugely support our growth in some areas, but we will never use it as a customer relations tool. People need to hear a human voice when they phone us, and to receive advice from someone who’ll help them find the products that will improve their skin condition and therefore their confidence.‘ Georgie Cleeve, Founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Creating and releasing our bestselling Renaissance Cleansing Gel in 2014. Rich in vitamins C and E, omega 6, starflower oil, pumpkin enzymes, chamomile and rose, we sell one every seven minutes.

Launching our award-winning CityLife range in 2016, the firstever collection of products that has been clinically proven to protect the skin against pollution.

Winning our 200th product and brand award in 2022. Since then, we have collected dozens more, including for our Violet Water acne range. We now have close to 250 awards.

Deepening our partnership with the Mandarin Oriental Hotel group in 2023 by launching OSKIA’s treatments and products in their Hong Kong flagship property.

Celebrating our tenth anniversary in 2023, working with Space NK, the UK’s go-to retailer and hub for innovative beauty brands.

OSKIA has gained a loyal following for its science-led, bio-nutritional skincare

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OSKIA 1 Lyric Square, London W6 0NB + 44 (0)203 994 1032 oskiaskincare.com oskiaskincare

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THE OWO

London’s most anticipated destination opens its doors

‘T

he OWO is the renaissance of an icon. The property is a magnificent grande dame in the heart of Whitehall, where it has stood as a central figure in the narrative of royalty, monarchs and governments. This historic building has undergone a remarkable transformation, reimagining its purpose and opening it up as a destination that celebrates life, food and the gathering of friends and family. This revitalisation is not only awe-inspiring but a testament to the delicate balance of preserving history and embracing the future. It is our custodial duty to breathe new life into its storied walls. The year of 2023 has been one of milestones. We completed our first residences in spring 2023 and handed them over to the new residents. We’ve got incredible facilities in place. For example, we’ve employed a new system called DigiValet, which allows residents to access services such as housekeeping whether they’re in London or anywhere in the world, and have their home cleaned at the touch of a button. Over the summer, we announced our collection of restaurants and bars which include Mauro Colagreco at The OWO, Café Lapérouse in the Courtyard and Paper Moon. The food and beverage offering is what makes The OWO so special. Another milestone was in September 2023 when Raffles at

The OWO was the most significant opening in London’s prime property and hospitality scenes in decades

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Patience, enthusiasm and surrounding yourself with a good team are

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The OWO opened its doors for the first time. That was a really exciting day, a pivotal moment which we have been working towards for eight years. Next year, we look forward to launching Endo Kazutoshi’s Japanese-influenced restaurant on the rooftop with a sake bar on Whitehall Place, and favourite of the cognoscenti, Langosteria, which opens later in the year. Otherwise, we’re looking forward to bedding in, allowing the staff, the hotel and the residents to settle down and enjoy the fruits of our labours.’ Charlie Walsh, Head of Residential Sales

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

‘THIS REVITALISATION IS NOT ONLY AWE-INSPIRING BUT A TESTAMENT TO THE DELICATE BALANCE OF PRESERVING HISTORY AND EMBRACING THE FUTURE’

The Grand Opening in September 2023 of The OWO and Raffles London, the first of its hotels in the UK, with 120 rooms and suites designed by Thierry Despont, plus the UK’s first Guerlain spa.

Launching The OWO Penthouse, designed by Winch Design, in July 2023. Set over 7,700 sq/ft on the seventh floor, the five-bedroom residence has 360-degree views, a private gym and sauna, media and games room, staff quarters and two expansive terraces.

3 4 5

Recognition as Super Prime Development of the Year at The Spear’s Awards in December 2022.

Completing five spectacular show residences within The OWO Residences over the past 12 months.

A fabulous brand partnership with Bovet, which involved providing ten residence owners with a bespoke, specially created, handcrafted 18ct red gold timepiece. Each is hand-engraved with a marble shell motif found on fireplaces within The OWO.

THE OWO 57 Whitehall London SW1A 2BX +44 (0)20 7139 5012 theowo.london theowo.london

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GBB 2024 —— CHEFS

theLIST

Five Chefs Cooking Up a Storm If you want to sit at anyone's table this year, pull up a chair to one of these impressive chef's, says ELLIE SMITH

In an industry still so maledominated, it’s heartening to see the success of trailblazing names like Scottish chef Lorna McNee. As a teenager, she approached Andrew Fairlie to ask for a job while he was having dinner. Fast forward ten years and she’s the only female chef in Scotland at the helm of a Michelin-starred restaurant: Cail Bruich in Glasgow’s West End.

Riaz Phillips

Sam Buckley

In the unassuming northern town of Stockport, chef Sam Buckley is causing quite the stir. He’s the name behind the area’s most famous restaurant, Where The Light Gets In, as well as a bakery-cum-potterystudio, Yellowhammer. All his projects are eco-minded, focusing on supporting local communities, simplifying business and – above all – using common sense.

Food writer Riaz Phillips sprung onto the scene in 2017 with his first book Belly Full: Caribbean Food in the UK – for which he scooped up the Young British Foodie Award. Since then, he has penned two more books, both of which he uses as a vehicle to share lesser-known stories and flavours of the Caribbean. ‘When you think about your interaction with a new culture, group of people or even a tourist destination, the first thing that will usually resonate with you is the food of that place,’ he says.

Douglas McMaster

Doug McMaster was one of the earliest adopters of zerowaste cooking. He launched Silo in Brighton in 2014 (that's since relocated to London) after being challenged to create a restaurant without a bin, and he has continued to push boundaries. A recent supper club series, for instance, was centred around cooking with invasive and overpopulated species.

Cynthia Shanmugalingam

Through her Borough Market restaurant, Rambutan, and cookbook of the same name, Cynthia Shanmugalingam brings something new to London’s Sri Lankan diaspora scene. Her recipes draw inspiration from both her British and Sri Lankan cultures – from the meals she grew up eating in Coventry to the traditional dishes she learned about during trips to Asia. Cynthia is also proud to be the first Sri Lankan Tamil woman to open a restaurant in central London.

PHOTOS:© CHLOE FREYAVILLE

Lorna McNee

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PQR

GBB 2024

PENHALIGON’S 218 POB HOTELS 220 POOLEY SWORD 222 PRAGNELL 224 PULBROOK & GOULD 226 RACHEL VOSPER 230

RANDLE SIDDELEY 232 RATHBONES 234 REALLY WILD CLOTHING 236 RED SAVANNAH 238 RIGBY & RIGBY 240 ROBERTS RADIO 246 ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY 248

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PENHALIGON’S

The heritage fragrance house embracing the future

‘P

enhaligon’s creates innovative fragrances that take inspiration from the unexpected, yet we remain true to our British heritage. We couldn’t be prouder, for example, of our collaboration with Highgrove Gardens in creating Highgrove Bouquet. Inspired by the home of His Majesty King Charles III, the fragrance stays true to the principles of our founder, William Penhaligon: to create products of the highest quality, imbued with the elegance of our heritage. We have launched a new collection of fragrances, Potions & Remedies, which blends our heritage with a contemporary twist. These five fragrances were created with emotional

wellbeing in mind, and the notes of each fragrance reflect how the wearer might want to feel. This collection has really resonated with a younger audience and introduced Penhaligon’s to a new generation, especially in the UK. Outside the UK, Penhaligon’s is expanding rapidly. We are among some of the top niche fragrance brands in China and the Middle East. It’s fantastic to see other parts of the globe embrace Penhaligon’s and what it represents: a quirky sense of Britishness as well as being a storyteller among fragrance houses. We can’t wait to continue to grow our success worldwide. Looking forward, we’re using more technology to manufacture fragrances

sustainably as well as connect with our customers in a variety of digital ways. However, we never want to lose that critical human touch at Penhaligon’s. Having our own stores plays a big part, and we continue to make the most of the physicality and service-driven nature of those elegant spaces. What else is on the horizon? Many new and exciting fragrances but we’re also expanding our Bath & Body and Home collections. We love to excite people and are looking forward to celebrating 154 years of Penhaligon’s in elevated and immersive ways across the globe.’ Julia Koeppen, Global General Manager

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P —— GBB 2024

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

In 1870, Cornish barber William Penhaligon opens his shop on Jermyn Street

In 1902, Walter Penhaligon is commissioned to create a scent for the 9th Duke of Marlborough. Blenheim Bouquet is still sold today.

3 4

Queen Consort Alexandra awards Penhaligon’s its first warrant in 1903. Two more follow in 1956 and in 1988. Penhaligon’s champion heritage crafts through partnerships with The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust and The Prince’s Foundation.

‘WE’RE USING MORE TECHNOLOGY TO MANUFACTURE FRAGRANCES SUSTAINABLY AS WELL AS CONNECT WITH OUR CUSTOMERS IN A VARIETY OF DIGITAL WAYS’

In 2023, Penhaligon’s introduces Potions & Remedies, based on William Penhaligon’s Forgotten Formulas.

PENHALIGON’S N1 Cathedral Piazza 123 Victoria Street London SW1E 5BP penhaligons.com penhaligons

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Surround yourself with passionate people and listen to all the voices in

a room. Success isn’t possible without collaboration and communication. ◆ Obstacles are opportunities and problems are possibilities. Changing your perception pushes creative solutions. ◆ Rest. Recharge. A healthy work-life balance is the key to giving your work 100 percent. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 219

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GBB 2024 —— P

PoB HOTELS

Independent hotel experiences elevated by tailored service and charming storytelling

‘T

he brand was formed 42 years ago when some incredible, independent luxury hotels pooled resources to reach more discerning travellers seeking authentic British experiences. Today, AI holds the potential to enhance significantly various aspects of our operations. The desire to prioritise personal time is universal, and in the luxury market discerning customers seek more than just a stunning hotel room; they crave bespoke experiences. By harnessing AI, we can reach our guests and gain innate insights into their needs, allowing customised

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and informed interactions. At an operational level, tools powered by AI help streamline hotel processes and work seamlessly behind the scenes, playing a pivotal role in enhancing the overall efficiency and effectiveness of our hotels’ daily functions. I’m enthusiastic about embracing change and harnessing AI to our advantage. However, it’s paramount to regard AI not as a substitute for the human touch, particularly in the environment of a luxury hotel where the personal connection is irreplaceable. This is especially vital for PoB Hotels, often characterised as small, independent and boutique-style properties, where the essence of the guest experience is profoundly rooted in human intelligence. AI cannot replicate those extraordinary moments when you engage in a heartfelt conversation about captivating local activities or when someone intuitively senses your needs. Central to our approach is the art of storytelling, a cornerstone that ignites our guests’ desire to immerse themselves in the experiences at our hotels. Their choices are deeply emotional, often intertwined with a fascination for history and heritage, a passion for local exploration, an appreciation for art, culinary adventures, sustainability, or a keen interest in our signature PoB Breaks campaign. Whether it’s the allure of wild swimming or the excitement of uncovering historic ruins, we’ve meticulously tailored our stories to harmonise with their aspirations and passions.’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3

In 1982 PoB Hotels was founded, uniting some of the finest independent hotels.

Each new addition embodied a proud moment, enhancing the brand’s reputation for unique and luxurious experiences.

The brand was reborn in February 2023, signalling renewed energy and a fresh commitment to providing outstanding hospitality.

PoB Breaks was introduced in June 2023 to provide guests with curated experiences beyond just stays, showcasing the rich diversity of Britain and the Channel Islands.

Partnering with EarthCheck, PoB Hotels achieved silver certification in September 2023 for environmental best practice and further promoted sustainability at member hotels.

No matter where you check in, at a PoB hotel you’re assured a stay to remember, with warm hospitality and bespoke experiences

PoB HOTELS Unit 4, Cowage Farm Malmesbury, Wiltshire SN16 0JH pobhotels.com pobhotelsuk

Kalindi Juneja, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Forging strong partnerships is essential for delivering exceptional hospitality

across our diverse portfolio. ◆ It’s important to be nimble and open-minded, whether responding to travel trends, embracing emerging technologies or addressing the pressing concerns of sustainability ◆ Having a guest-centric approach. Listening attentively and striving to surpass their expectations.

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POOLEY SWORD Cutlers of the finest military and presentation swords

‘I

have always been passionate about swords. In fact, in 1962, while working within the aviation industry, I started my own tradition of presenting commissioned Wilkinson swords to colleagues and special guests. In 2005, when Wilkinson Sword ceased trading as sword-makers, I immediately took the opportunity to buy its drawings, spares and much of its equipment and set up Pooley Sword. Our company has gone from strength to strength. Every member of our team is as passionate and proud of Pooley Sword as I am. Regardless of the recipient, we take exceptional care and immense pride in every sword we create, and every part of our sword is handmade. Even our drawings, which are initially done on a computer, are then finely adjusted by hand. We hand-etch and never engrave. As sword making is such an endangered craft, we must advertise for our craftspeople as there are so few with the unique skills we need. Our Master Cutler, Peter Harmsworth, who trained at Wilkinson Sword, continues training all of our apprentices. I’m delighted to say that one of the three who recently qualified is female. Quality is key: a British officer’s sword is a treasured heirloom, something to be cherished and passed down through the generations. Typically, a blade carries your name, the date and place of your commission and it might have your coat of arms or details of previous regiments or forces in which you’ve served. Our swords are totally bespoke; they are the embodiment of one’s pride and heritage. Therefore, we have learned our excellence and quality ensure the longevity of this special heirloom.’ Robert Pooley MBE LVO, Founder

Pooley Sword is ensuring the age-old techniques of sword-making continue

‘OUR SWORDS ARE TOTALLY BESPOKE; THEY ARE THE EMBODIMENT OF ONE’S PRIDE AND HERITAGE’

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Knowledge is everything: our museum holds Wilkinson Sword records

dating back to 1772 and other important historical records that we pass on to our clients. ◆ Quality is key to ensure a sword’s longevity as a priceless heirloom. ◆ To nurture and keep our centuries-old craft alive via our Master Cutler’s apprenticeships. 222 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Our first Sword of Honour being presented by Queen Elizabeth II to an outstanding cadet at Sovereign’s Parade in 2006 and another by King Charles III to a cadet in 2023.

2 3 4

Preparing two swords for the Late Captain Sir Tom Moore in March 2021 from his two former regiments Seeing countless numbers of our Pooley Swords at King Charles III’s coronation.

Our Managing Director, Robert Pooley MBE, being awarded the LVO in 2023 for services to the Royal Household and HM The King.

In 2023 we cleaned, to museum standard, four Crusader swords from circa 1300, from the armouries of Constantinople and Alexandria.

POOLEY SWORD Highdown House, Shoreham Airport, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex BN43 5PB +44 (0)1273 467277 pooleysword.com pooleysword

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GBB 2024 —— P

PRAGNELL

A family-run jeweller with a rich heritage, renowned for exceptional jewels and British craftsmanship

‘ULTIMATELY, HERITAGE ARTS AND CRAFTS WILL BE TREASURED MORE BECAUSE OF THE ARTISANAL SKILLS AND TALENT NEEDED IN THEIR CREATION’

‘M

y grandfather George Pragnell was fortunate to serve Queen Mary in his early years as a jeweller. When she died in 1953, my grandmother Margaret thought it time for him to have his own shop and they agreed that Stratford-uponAvon would be a good place to do so. It’s a lovely Tudor market town and even in those days, attracted visitors because of its connection to Shakespeare. My mother’s side of the family had been manufacturing jewellery in London since 1850 so we have a long history as goldsmiths and jewellers. The majority of the jewellery is handcrafted in our own workshops in Great Britain, as it has been for over 170 years. When someone is buying or having a unique piece of jewellery specially designed for them, it is a very emotional, personal process. The conversations we have with customers are important: we welcome them as special guests, as we would into our own homes. Technology is useful in helping customers envisage ideas and understand the possibilities of what we can create. For example, if someone would like a bespoke cocktail ring, we listen

Pragnell’s master craftspeople create bespoke fine jewellery in the brand’s Stratford-upon-Avon atelier

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ To treat customers like kings and queens and welcome them as if into one’s

own home. ◆ In both our customer service and the quality of our goods, one must be relentless in the pursuit of impossible perfection. In that pursuit, excellence is found. ◆ To progress, one must recognise that the remaining ingredients for success are ten percent inspiration and 90 percent perspiration. 224 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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to their preferences, draw some sketches in response and show them pieces that we already have that contain elements of these ideas, finishes, stone cuts or setting styles. We can then create a 3D virtual cocktail ring using our stateof-the-art specialist software. In my opinion, AI will increase the value of the human touch. I think what we’ll find is that those areas of service where AI can do better and be more effective than people will become less economically and socially valued and, conversely, roles where technology cannot function or outperform us, will become more valued. Ultimately, heritage arts and crafts will be treasured more because of the artisanal skills and talent needed in their creation.’ Charlie Pragnell

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

The uniting of Tarratt (est 1913), Waters and Blott (est 1850) and Philip Antrobus (est 1815) into our family firm, Pragnell.

The introduction of The Pragnell Shakespeare Birthday Prize by Jeremy Pragnell in 1990. It’s awarded to someone who has extended the understanding of the Bard’s work.

The receipt of the Queen’s Award for Enterprise in 2018 in recognition of outstanding achievement for contribution to British enterprise and industry.

Our patronage of The Prince’s Trust to support the incredible work that they do. Also, our partnership with The Prince’s Foundation, which is dedicated to the protection and promotion of craft.

The recent opening of the new Leicester showroom, which has the elegance and comfort of our Mayfair showroom, plus workshops where customers can see our skilled jewellers, goldsmiths and watchmakers in action.

PRAGNELL 14 & 16 Mount Street London W1K 2RF +44 (0)1789 267072 pragnell.co.uk pragnelljewellery

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GBB 2024 —— P

PULBROOK & GOULD Prestige florist with long-standing royal connections

‘P

ulbrook & Gould is 67 years old and like many in later middle-age, it is wary of AI. Nonetheless, the company is keeping abreast of developments, and we watched with interest the demonstrations of the robotic arm trying to arrange a very simple bouquet. The results were sub-amateur – totally lacking in inspiration and humanity. Having said that, of course we use technology – the pandemic really brought home its value, showing us that a good website is integral to our business rather than an optional extra. Technology also makes our back-office operations more efficient, and we are waiting impatiently for someone to invent a truly sustainable alternative to the green oasis that is universally used. We are experimenting with wool and other eco-friendly materials, but thus far haven’t found anything that holds moisture or supports the stems as well. I cannot see a day when we would ever be able to employ AI designers, even if we wanted to – which we most certainly don’t. Everything about our arrangements is profoundly personal, and profoundly human. Each one is a statement of choice and taste that goes far beyond colour and scent and appearance. Often, they are also expressions of symbolism, emotion and memory; we’ve done wedding bouquets that have included the favourite flowers of a deceased parent, for example. Our designers are trained to interpret wishes, even when people aren’t able to articulate them fully.

The personal touch is at the heart of every bouquet and arrangement Pulbrook & Gould’s team creates

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Modernise and improve to remain relevant, but never lose sight of your

history, culture and what defines your brand. ◆ The human will always trump the machine in floristry. Every single arrangement is unique, personal and imbued with significance. ◆ Never, ever compromise on quality. Employ the best to deliver the best.

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‘EVERYTHING ABOUT OUR ARRANGEMENTS IS PROFOUNDLY PERSONAL, AND PROFOUNDLY HUMAN. EACH ONE IS A COMPLEX STATEMENT OF CHOICE AND TASTE’ Flowers have an eloquence all of their own, and people have a story all of their own. We use one to communicate the other. Ultimately, we work with our clients to bring their vision to life, and that is as true of arrangements for a corporate event or private dinner as it is of a wedding. Floristry is an ultra-human business. I hope it remains so forever.’ Erik Karlsen, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The wedding of HRH Princess Alexandra to the Hon. Angus Ogilvy in 1963 was the first of many royal weddings that Pulbrook & Gould has been involved with.

We were thrilled when India Hicks booked our talented florists for her wedding in 2021, following in the tradition of her mother Lady Pamela Hicks, whose arrangement we designed in 1960.

We were proud to be interviewed by global media following the death of Queen Elizabeth II. We provided insights on the most appropriate flowers for such an occasion.

For many years now, we have been the preferred florist of Dame Anna Wintour, Vogue’s editor-inchief. We have built our reputation on such long-standing relationships.

In 2023 we collaborated with LAPADA Art & Antiques Fair for its international event in Berkeley Square, designing the floral displays to complement and enhance the exhibits.

PULBROOK & GOULD 31 Palfrey Pl, London SW8 1PE +44 (0)20 7730 0030 pulbrookandgould.co.uk pulbrookandgould

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GBB 2024 —— ADVENTURE

theLIST Five Bucket List Trips

ANOOP BHULLER shares five adventures you’ll never forget – hosted by travel brands that give back to the environment

THE BRANDO, Tahiti Turquoise Holidays

Working with sustainable hotels that hold the same values when it comes to protecting the environment, Turquoise Holidays shows its clients that travel can be both luxurious and ethical. Its hotels are free of single-use plastics, offer farm-to-table food, and are involved in marine conservation. Surrounded by marine life, white sand beaches and palm trees, The Brando is just one particular paradise. Created as a sustainable development, the air-conditioning system uses sea water and energy is provided by the sun and coconut oil. The Ecostation nearby, available for visits, sees scientists research and promote sustainability of tropical islands around the world. turquoiseholidays.co.uk

BISATE LODGE, Rwanda

Scott Dunn

Take a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Bisate Lodge, located in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park. Here you can trek through forests in search of mountain gorillas, see golden monkeys playing in the bamboo, and be blown away by the mountainous scenery. You'll stay in one of the lodge's six cabins, designed in the local style with traditional domed thatched roofs. Bisate Lodge has a strong conservation and community focus, and works to reforest the area, as well as with the local Tuzamurana Cooperative on community projects. In turn, luxury tour operator Scott Dunn shows its commitment to responsible travel by giving back to the communities it visits, working with locally owned properties and companies to offer authentic experiences in all corners of the world. scottdunn.com

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QUEENSLAND'S OUTBACK, REEF AND RAINFOREST, Australia Elegant Resorts

An epic ten-day trip you'll never forget. Journey to the other side of the world with Elegant Resorts, the pioneering luxury tour operator, and explore mysterious, majestic Queensland in comfort and style. You'll be bewitched by Australia's vibrant landscapes and the tantalising colours of Queensland, from the terracotta of the outback to the verdant greens of the Daintree Rainforest and the intense turquoise of the Great Barrier Reef. The itinerary first takes in the outback, with a three-day stay at Mt Mulligan Lodge, a 28,000-hectare cattle station, where you'll explore this quintessential Australian locale via kayak, paddleboard or ATV. Next, you'll head to the rainforest of Tropical North Queensland, where you'll stay in a luxurious treehouse suite, before finishing the trip at the Great Barrier Reef. Stay at Lizard Island beach resort, a remote retreat with 24 white powdery beaches, five-star cuisine and indulgent spa treatments, offering outstanding diving and snorkelling. elegantresorts.co.uk

EXPLORE ANTARCTICA Cookson Adventures

A pioneer in international yacht expeditions, you'll be in safe hands exploring the icy, pristine wilds of Antarctica with Cookson Adventures. Here, the itinerary is entirely bespoke to your wants and needs, with experts on hand to help curate your perfect Antarctic exploration. Adrenaline junkies can heliski, and explore by submersible or kayak, while conservation enthusiasts can help scientists gather valuable data on climate change and the area's unique wildlife – spot majestic killer, minke and humpback whales, as well as penguins. cooksonadventures.com

CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIP, USA Red Savannah

Jumping into a red convertible and exploring America's tantalising West Coast is a dream for many. Make the fantasy a reality with this ten-day, self-drive itinerary put together by Red Savannah, which takes in San Francisco and Alcatraz, hiking in Yosemite National Park, whale watching in Monterey, and 17-Mile Drive, the world-famous stretch of road between Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach. You'll finish in Santa Barbara, with its beach life, watersports and wine tasting. What's more, every booking with Red Savannah includes a donation to the Rainforest Trust – over the years, the brand has gathered funds to protect over 25,300 acres of rainforest. redsavannah.com COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 229

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GBB 2024 —— R

RACHEL VOSPER

The chandler pushing boundaries in sustainability

‘I

have always been committed to running the most sustainable candle business and have been offering my refill service now for close to 30 years. To add another layer, clients can commission a bespoke scent from my studio in Belgravia. From the acorn of a scent, we can produce candles, reed diffusers, room sprays and more. For 2024, after many months of research and development, I am ready to launch an exciting new candle refill concept that will revolutionise how one can refill their empty candle receptacles via letterbox. I think AI has its place and could help when people want to develop

‘THE PROCESS OF DESIGNING A FRAGRANCE IS PERSONAL, NUANCED AND COMPLEX, AS SCENT HAS THE POWER TO HELP STIR EMOTIONS’ 230 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Accepting a casual offer in 1994 to help make candles on a beach in Barbados, which eventually led to the founding of the brand.

2 their own scent, deciphering their likes and dislikes. That said, the process of designing a fragrance is personal, nuanced and complex, as scent has the power to help stir emotions and, for now, AI is unable to dig that deep into the olfactory system. I do feel my clients still desire and benefit from human interaction and the handmade nature of my candles. As the business grows, I am in the final stages of setting up a new UK-based factory. This will continue to support my sustainable values and allow me to fully concentrate on creative collaborations and developing my customer experiences. I would like to turn our atelier into a place for bespoke refills and entertaining such as candle-making workshops. It would be so nice for people to come in, experience and understand the brand. Further afield, our international clientele is forever growing, and so I am planning to open my first retail venture in the UAE in late 2024. I am also keen to reignite former plans to set up a studio in NYC. My future ambitions are to maintain the intimate, cult and current sustainable aspects of the brand while scaling the business with integrity.’

Seeing my candles displayed in The Cross, Holland Park, for the first time in 2001 and taking my parents to see my candles displayed in Liberty in 2007.

3 4

Receiving the keys and unlocking the door to my first stand-alone store in Belgravia on Valentine’s Day 2011.

Rachel Vosper’s scents are inspired by floriography: the secret meanings of flowers

Becoming a Walpole Brand of Tomorrow in 2015 and Walpole Power List Tastemaker in 2020. Winning the Made in Belgravia award, and the award for best sustainable candle/home fragrance brand at the Country & Town House Sustainability Awards 2024.

Our long-standing relationship with our neighbour The Berkeley, and being commissioned to capture the essence in scent of the evolution of its Blue Bar. The bespoke fragrance is enriched with precious woods with hints of clove, tart rhubarb, and nutmeg.

RACHEL VOSPER 69 Kinnerton Street London SW1X 8ED +44 (0)20 7935 9666 rachelvosper.com rachelvosperbelgravia

Rachel Vosper, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Success happens when hard work meets opportunity. You can’t wait for

anyone to knock on your door. You need to give your work your all. ◆ There are moments when everything goes well; don’t be frightened, it won’t last. ◆ Get absolutely everything in writing and make sure your contracts are solid, particularly in terms of suppliers, IP and trademarkings. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 231

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GBB 2024 —— R

RANDLE SIDDELEY

‘I

n 2023 it was great to work with Blue Forest again, creating the garden for its Magical Hideaway at the Chelsea Flower Show, which is always the pinnacle of our year. But seeing our garden, Riverdance on the Thames come together after two and half years of work has been a particularly wonderful highlight. At Riverdance, I feel I have achieved more than I’ve ever achieved before, partly because I had a dream client, who gave me a free rein, despite having a great critical eye. Randle Siddeley Ltd (RSL) is embracing AI fast and I am all for

‘IF PEOPLE ARE SCARED OF AI IT’S ONLY BECAUSE IT’S LIKE LEARNING ANOTHER LANGUAGE’

PHOTOS: GEORGINA VINEY PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY, URBIS

Landscape architects creating the gardens of the future

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Creating a series of formal, classical gardens for a palatial Franco-Russian-style house between two lakes north-west of Quebec in 2007.

Developing six diverse gardens from scratch in 2020 for six homes in a new luxury development on a bare site located on a hill overlooking Discovery Bay and the South China Sea.

PHOTOS: GEORGINA VINEY PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY, URBIS

Randle Siddeley has created beautiful gardens all around the world, from Quebec (left middle) to Hong Kong (right below)

3 4

Winning five stars at the 2023 Chelsea Flower Show for designing the garden around Blue Forest’s Magical Hideaway.

it. We do lots of CGIs and can show people fly-throughs of how their garden will look. I clung onto the old drawing boards and tracing paper for as long as I could, and I still like doing freehand sketches but a computer can tweak your detailed drawings in a flash. RSL is now in its 48th year and the baton must be passed on. I am still here, but on the side-lines as Chairman and no longer in the relay race. It is all about reinvention – the wheel stays round but the cogs which do the fine-tuning are far more sophisticated, and if you do not evolve you will get stuck way behind. I never stand still and it is important to think outside the box. When I started posting on Instagram, people laughed at me but now I have 20,000 followers. I have written two books but they are behind me and instead I now have a live document for everyone to see. If people are scared of AI it is only because it is like learning another language. Having said that, I still hate Zoom meetings unless people are overseas. Every garden is unique to the person so it is important to make time for each other face to face and know each other.’

Completing a 27-acre estate, Riverdance, along the Thames this year, featuring sweeping lawn overlooking the riverbank, pond, natural stream, woodlands, grasslands and formal gardens.

Reintroducing over 100 of three new species of disease-resistant Dutch elm to Riverdance and creating a log wall made out of clay cylinders as habitats for wildlife.

RANDLE SIDDELEY LIMITED Trafalgar House, Juniper Drive London SW18 1GY +44 (0)20 7627 7260 randlesiddeley.co.uk randlesiddeley

Randle Siddeley, Founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Listen well, but never compromise on your designs, whatever anyone

wants or says. ◆ Assemble the best possible team you can – always surround yourself with passionate people. ◆ Quality, quality, quality before all. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 233

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GBB 2024 —— R

RATHBONES Providing personal wealth management services to individuals

‘W

hen we combined with Investec Wealth & Investment (UK) in April 2023 it was very important that we continued to feel personal to our clients, carrying on with no disruption and a continuity and reassurance that their money was in a safe place. Uncertainty grows fast in an economic climate like this, so maintaining integrity and trust is vital. Being responsive and being there does not mean hiding behind voice messages, smartphone passwords and machines. We get to know our clients really well and have so many human stories, like when one client had a problem with his passport and someone from our Liverpool office went to their house to help. There’s also a culture of not pushing product. That might make us appear a little dull but we prefer to focus on demonstrating quality and authority, which builds for the long term. Our processes might occasionally be painstaking but we never cut corners so we can always stand up and give an excellent account of ourselves. When we ask our shareholders if they want innovation and delivery, all of their financial targets met, and combined with a whole lot of growth, they will all say, “Yes please!”. We are ever-hungry in a world in which technology is shaping us very fast. So, we are exploring ways we could use technology like AI to make our internal processes more efficient to meet these goals. We’ll proceed steadily – but cautiously. Ultimately, we’ll never lose sight of our very human relationship with our clients and shareholders. For us, scale will always go hand in hand with personal service.’

Nicola Day, Deputy Head of Greenbank (centre) won Sustainable and ESG Investment Woman of the Year at Investment Week’s Women in Investment Awards in November 2023

Paul Stockton, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Your brand can be your biggest asset. It needs to evolve and be protected. ◆ Exceptional, personal client service is still – and will always be – key to

our business. ◆ Growth and scale are important for continued success in our market but our focus remains on feeling small and personal to our clients and building for the long term. 234 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE’LL NEVER LOSE SIGHT OF OUR VERY HUMAN RELATIONSHIPS WITH OUR CLIENTS AND SHAREHOLDERS’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2 3 4 5

When Rathbones established itself as a wealth management business in 1912, having traded since 1742 in various other areas.

When Rathbone Brothers Plc was listed on the London Stock Exchange in 1992, our 250th anniversary year.

Establishing Greenbank Investments, our specialist ethical and sustainable investment arm, in 2004. Being renamed Rathbones Group Plc in 2021, the better to reflect the breadth of our organisation.

Combining with Investec Wealth & Investment (UK) in 2023 and refreshing the brand proposition for the enlarged group.

RATHBONES GROUP PLC 8 Finsbury Circus London EC2M 7AZ +44 (0)20 7399 0000 rathbones.com rathbonesplc

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GBB 2024 —— R

REALLY WILD CLOTHING A commitment to designing clothes that transcend fashion and trends

‘T

he success of Really Wild Clothing is down to a dedicated, visionary team. The saying, “It takes a village to raise a child” is how I feel about our company. Our brand stands for quality, which ultimately means longevity and sustainability. We do not create clothes for today and tomorrow. We want people to enjoy our designs for many years, and have therefore always invested in the best quality fabrics and workmanship: we still use the same Scottish mills as we did when we started in 2002 because no one makes better tweed. That decision to make clothing that endures has proved prescient, because people now expect companies to put thoughtfulness, authenticity and sustainability at the top of their brand values. The pandemic brought about opportunities – we emerged with greater awareness of how important innovation and adaptability were to survival, and a realisation that technology, including artificial intelligence, was integral to that. Fortunately, we had already migrated our servers to cloud-based platforms in 2019. This meant we could seamlessly transition to remote working and could therefore focus our attention on other ways in which technology could work harder for us. We invested heavily in boosting our online presence. Our revamped website, social media and online campaigns have introduced

us to a wider customer base and have subsequently brought more people to our London store. Automation is enabling us to analyse and meet the needs of people in a more tailored way. Our finance and marketing teams use it to streamline their workflow, and we’ve integrated it into our communication with production teams. I still design on paper with a pen, though, and that won’t change. However, I am surrounded by talented people who are taking Really Wild Clothing into the future with new ways of working.’ Natalie Lake, Managing Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Always maintain standards. You will lose your customers if you

compromise on quality. ◆ You can find inspiration anywhere. Don’t be afraid to innovate and try new things. ◆ Listen to and learn from your team. They have different skills, experiences and awareness. They will take your business forward. 236 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The opening of our London store, on Sloane Street, in 2019 remains a highpoint. It was the culmination of everyone’s hard work. We felt as if we had arrived.

Using the lockdowns to think about what our business would look like on the other side and to act accordingly.

In 2022 we celebrated 20 years of working with the same woollen mills in Scotland. They have been making our tweed since we started. I value that relationship enormously.

We designed our new website during the pandemic. Since then, we have been updating it to provide a great customer experience. The response to it has been extremely positive.

We did the Chelsea Flower Show for the first time in 2023. Our clothing just flew, and we were buzzing for weeks after. It was a terrific validation of our business.

REALLY WILD CLOTHING 53 Sloane Square London SW1W 8AX +44 (0)1491 352600 reallywildclothing.com reallywildclothing

‘I STILL DESIGN ON PAPER WITH A PEN, AND THAT WON’T CHANGE’

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GBB 2024 —— R

RED SAVANNAH

The multi-award-winning company redefining luxury travel

‘I

n a world in which travel companies seem locked in a race to be bigger and better, the industry has become overrun with large brands chasing the benefits of scale at the expense of originality and true raison d’être. But Red Savannah bucks that trend. Our mission is to take travel back to a time where top-level service, knowledge and human connection matter above all else. It all comes down to our team: a tight-knit group of highly professional experts with an unparalleled specialism in their particular patch of the globe. Nearly all boast over 20 years of experience, meaning their address books – and their ability to craft the most authentic, sophisticated and intelligent trips – are the best in the industry. With the advent of AI, tailormade trips can be created at the click of a button. But without human interaction, travellers miss out on truly getting under the skin of a destination. That’s why we focus on the esoteric, experiential side of travel. So a trip to Japan might involve a private lesson with Sushi Master Shinkichi Mitsugi, or a Zen session with the Jikijitsu of a Japanese Zen monastery not open to the public. Clients staying at our luxury villas are able to access extraordinary experiences and privileged access to wonderful hidden churches, boutique wineries, art galleries and of course, delightful pasta making classes. That’s not to say we shy away from technology. Instead, we use

Singita Ebony

Arijiju, Kenya

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Always under-promise and over-deliver in spades. ◆ Operate with a spirit

of generosity. Going that extra mile, both for clients and team, always reaps rewards. ◆ Embrace truth, transparency and trust. The notion of ‘luxury’ has become swamped in jargon and hogwash. We tell it how it is and crucially, never endorse anywhere we don’t know or understand. 238 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘TECHNOLOGY HAS ENRICHED OUR LIVES, YET NOTHING STANDS IN FOR THE HUMAN TOUCH’ it to enhance rather than replace our people-orientated service. Our dynamic travel app holds every detail of a client’s trip, but a real person at the end of a phone knows exactly what makes them tick. Technology has enriched our lives, yet nothing stands in for the human touch. And once people realise this and start travelling with Red Savannah, they very rarely leave us.’ George Morgan-Grenville, founder and CEO

The Datai Langkawi

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launching Green Savannah, our philanthropic arm, in 2019, which has to date protected over 25,000 acres of tropical rainforest through donations to mitigate client and staff flight emissions.

2 3

Winning the 2020 Queen’s Award for Enterprise in the International Trade category, together with several other major industry awards. Completing the successful acquisition of US Italian villa specialist Homebase Abroad in 2021, at a time when the industry was being ravaged by the pandemic.

Celebrating Red Savannah’s tenth anniversary in 2021 with a dinner on board a BA 747 (the last one ever to take off from London Heathrow) at Kemble Airfield.

Becoming an internationally recognised £15 million+ luxury travel brand within 11 years, with an enviable brand reputation and an A-List clientele.

RED SAVANNAH Eagle Tower, Montpellier Drive Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1TA +44 (0)1242 787800 redsavannah.com redsavannahhq

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GBB 2024 —— R

RIGBY & RIGBY Designing and creating the most exceptional properties in the world

‘R

igby & Rigby is an award winning multi-discplinary design and delivery studio based in London and working internationally. The company has a reputation for developing unrivalled residences, private family offices, hotels & commercial spaces. Through our turnkey project solution, we give precious time back to clients – they invest as much or as little time as they wish into a project. Our six departments create a design and delivery ecosystem that interlocks and streamlines the process; a specialist team then delivers the project. This “one-stop shop” solution averages 20 percent time-savings by overlapping work-stages. Our company vision has brought all services in-house, giving full control on quality, cost & time. We can run projects fast without compromising quality; and we have more time to research and develop the design and technology at the forefront of our practice. Our team shares articles on diverse topics – car galleries, wine-rooms, feng shui – which improve our knowledge base to be reinvested into projects. We embrace technology and efficiency including AI, from our intelligent “smart” server to designing custom furniture, sculpture and artwork. Human input and guidance can dictate how AI technology delivers creative results with unanticipated AI magic, and we’re looking forward to the future

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Work with team players who care, with a strong work ethic and attitude.

◆ Drive and patience are key. Be flexible, advance, review, absorb learnings,

improve processes and celebrate success. ◆ ‘Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication,’ said Leonardo Da Vinci. Simple, refined, well-executed design is the foundation for beautiful and luxurious interiors. 240 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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as AI becomes more integrated, eg automate tasks like siting electrical sockets and switches in a building.. AI also assists storytelling at the heart of each project. Can’t find the right image to capture a feeling? Generate it through AI. Establishing a project concept from the start, we refer to this narrative throughout; the concept gives context, combining the client, the building and the desired aspiration, informing each design decision, from room layout to custom artwork. Our business is built on relationships and serving people. We harness technology for efficiency and to complement our client and developer services. Our whole team has the finesse and confidence to deliver great service, impressive design, a precise build and reliable aftercare.’ James Ashfield, Studio Director of Interior Design

‘OUR WHOLE TEAM HAS THE FINESSE AND CONFIDENCE TO DELIVER GREAT SERVICE, IMPRESSIVE DESIGN, A PRECISE BUILD AND RELIABLE AFTERCARE’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Designing and delivering a recordbreaking project in Charles Street, Mayfair in 2016, which achieved a rental value of £5,300 per sq/ft and set a benchmark in prime Central London.

2 3

Completing our 25th overseas project and our third in Japan in 2021.

Completing Lancelot House Knightsbridge, a 17,000 sq/ ft project with advanced technology, in 2023, the first UK private residential home to achieve WELLness accreditation.

In summer 2023 delivering interiors for two apartments in Atlantis The Royal Residences, Dubai, the landmark that has redefined the skyline of the exclusive Palm development.

Receiving the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark in 2023, an industry benchmark for global recognition of our high standards of environmental, social and governance criteria.

RIGBY & RIGBY DESIGN STUDIO 29 Milner Street London SW3 2QD +44 (0)20 3418 0446 rigbyandrigby.com rigbyandrigby

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This image was created using Midjourney, a generative artificial intelligence program

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DOMESTIC ROBOTICS —— GBB 2024

IS THAT A ROBOT IN MY KITCHEN? SEBASTIAN CONRAN believes that domestic robots will be able to help with societal challenges such as social isolation and healthcare needs, especially for our ageing population

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e have had robotic devices in our homes for almost 200 years since the advent of the sewing machine and the Teasmade. However, both are single-task and need significant human input: a sewing machine cannot hem your trousers autonomously, nor can the Teasmade boil you an egg. Our future homes will not just be places to live, but dynamic and intelligent spaces that adapt to our needs, making our lives more convenient and enjoyable. One of the most significant drivers of this transformation may be the integration of robotics and artificial general intelligence (AGI) into the domestic setting. However, while we’re all excited about how our robotic companions might impact our daily lives, do we really want granny looked after by an android? My 91-year-old mother certainly wants one. I gave her an iPad for her 80th birthday and she emailed me saying: ‘It has improved my quality of life by 30 percent.’ She has always been hooked on emergent technology – that is when she can work it. Alexa has not been quite so successful – cue argument as to whether you should say ‘please’; apparently you can intuit how well people are brought up by their use of Ps+Qs (own goal to Shirley there). Among other salient problems, the world has an ageing population that poses several challenges, such as increased healthcare needs, social isolation and the need for more assistance with daily activities. Robotics may potentially emerge as a beacon of hope to address these challenges effectively and enhance people’s independence in later life. Robots are being developed to assist with daily activities, including meal preparation, medication management and mobility support. Robotic arms, equipped with advanced machine learning algorithms, can even aid seniors to dress and get in and out of bed, allowing them to prolong their autonomy and quality of life. But they are not universal in function or fully autonomous yet, and often need a technician present – a glitch we hope to ‘design out’ in the future. There are more modest companion robots, exemplified by our intentionally cute MiRo-E robotic platform. This has the potential to alleviate social isolation and loneliness by offering emotional support and interaction, simultaneously reducing the worries of families and primary carers (such as myself). Developed by our University of Sheffield spin-off start-up Consequential Robotics, MiRo-E is designed to be a socially engaging robot that can recognise and respond to human emotions. After extensive research, Sheffield Robotics understood that a humanoid device would be far too complicated and expensive. To get a robot physically to perform anywhere near our expectations of what even a toddler might be able to do, let alone an adult, was unachievable

within our budget and timescale. However, one’s expectations of a kitten’s, puppy’s or bunny’s behaviour are much lower and easier to satisfy. Therefore, we designed an ambiguous animal-like personality that would be emotionally engaging, while having all the technical requirements, such as motors and sensors, required by university researchers. It has also been useful in motivating schoolkids to learn programming skills, such as creative coding, so they can ‘train it’ to perform. This robotic pet-like device, small enough to pick up (3kg), is named MiRo (bioMimetic Robot), which people warm to and chat to, as they might to their pets – the difference being that MiRo can be programmed to comprehend what is being said, in several languages too. With the right training – i.e. programming – MiRo might engage in conversation, play games, provide reminders for medication and appointments, and notice if there are behavioural anomalies and take action – ever seen a dog call for help? It could recognise people’s moods by their facial expression, bearing and tone of voice. It is suitable for all ages and particularly useful if you travel often, are not permitted animals in your apartment or are unable to care for a pet. It is equipped with sensors and artificial intelligence algorithms that can detect appearance, sound and anomalies, allowing it to adapt its behaviour to the emotional state of its user, essential for providing both companionship and support. It can provide medication reminders, schedule appointments and offer entertainment through existing media hardware. Whereas people with CCTV installed are concerned about their privacy, having a device with sentient sensors that interprets what it senses rather than streaming video is also rather more private and appealing. We humans are adaptable. However, the current hurdle appears to be caused by mechanical hardware rather than thinking software. Currently robots are pretty much one-trick-ponies, focused on doing a single task (a bit like the first mobile phones). Take robotic vacuumcleaners and washing-up machines, which have already become common household appliances. The larger opportunity for all of us may be for autonomous multitasking universal robots to serve as a personalised companion/butler/nanny/carer (think Lord Peter Wimsey’s manservant Bunter), able to take on tedious household chores such as cooking, dishwashing, laundry and maintenance. This would allow families to spend more quality time together, granny to live independently and for me to tackle that stack of unread books that looms in my studio. While the potential benefits of robotics in the domestic setting are remarkable, their use raises ethical questions concerning privacy, consent, and the potential for emotional manipulation of vulnerable people. Ethical guidelines and regulations are being developed to ensure responsible use and that robots are user-friendly, safe and easy to communicate with. An even greater concern with AGI is that it could potentially become the dystopian

‘OUR FUTURE HOMES WILL NOT JUST BE PLACES TO LIVE BUT DYNAMIC AND INTELLIGENT SPACES THAT ADAPT TO OUR NEEDS. ONE OF THE DRIVERS OF THIS TRANSFORMATION MAY BE THE INTEGRATION OF ROBOTICS AND ARTIFICIAL GENERAL INTELLIGENCE INTO THE DOMESTIC SETTING’

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DOMESTIC ROBOTICS —— GBB 2024

Sebastian has helped with the development of the intentionally ‘cute’ MiRo-E robotic platform, which can recognise and respond to human emotions

nightmare super-brain of fiction movies, such as The Terminator, that takes over the world and banishes humans back to caves. Currently advanced robotic technologies are very, very expensive, posing a barrier to many but the largest companies and governments. To develop a robot nearing the cognition and dexterity of even a human toddler would need resources greater than that of building an aircraft carrier – or HS2, for that matter. Apple invests gazillions honing the performance of just the iPhone. My smartphone and photographic bills are dwarfed by what they used to be – probably after a pencil, my smartphone is my most essential business tool. Therefore, the sooner these technologies are accessible to a broader range of the population the better, so that high demand reduces prices and robotics can be accessed by older people with less resilient or no income. Responsible development and deployment of robotics in our homes hold the promise of revolutionising our daily routine, making them more

comfortable, supported and conducive to deeper connections among people of all generations. And improving our quality of life by much more than 30 percent perhaps? But first, of course, there are the significant ethical, technical and cost challenges to overcome before anything nearing the digital toddler can be developed. Perhaps in the meantime, then, the modest ambition of an unthreatening sentient robotic-companion, whose personality resembles a cross between a bunny and a puppy, is more achievable. And it could improve the quality of life fast for vulnerable people or those who cannot look after a real pet. Apparently, my aging mother would be delighted with one. Sebastian Conran is a co founder of Consequential Robotics with University of Sheffield, is Visiting Professor of Design & Innovation at Bristol Robotics lab and Industrial Professor at University of Warwick n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 245

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GBB 2024 —— R

ROBERTS RADIO A much-loved audio company combining tactile design with cutting-edge technology

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here has always been a great affection for radio in the UK but during the pandemic we saw a huge uplift in listening as those who were isolating wanted not just news and entertainment but also companionship. Although radio listening is at an all-time high, device sales have declined over the last few years, in no small part down to the fact that people are using voice assistants to access content. We try to find a balance between the comfort of a familiar radio design with the latest technology so that customers can stream their favourite playlists. We haven’t got the might of the big global heavyweights but we drive innovation. We’re about to launch new products that will incorporate voice-operated technology into our radios, so that they blend into homes seamlessly. We’re probably most famous for the leathercloth Revival model and it is still hand-built. The printed circuit boards are made by machines but the assembly is done by craftsmen and always will be. AI will never be able to replace the tactile experience of picking up an audio device, or its excellent sound quality, which is a key part of the proposition when listening to a radio. We spend the majority of our time focusing our efforts on relationships, not just with our own team, but also with consumers and retail partners. We are slowly building our online presence but continue to focus energy in maintaining strong and

Roberts radios have become familiar and beloved objects in many people’s homes in Britain, and around the world

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Protect your brand and never compromise on core values. ◆ Don’t be afraid

to make mistakes. ◆ Always care: for your business, your customers, your employees and your suppliers.

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‘WE STILL DO THINGS THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY. I GET LOTS OF HANDWRITTEN LETTERS FROM CUSTOMERS AND WE ALWAYS RESPOND BY PICKING UP THE PHONE’ fruitful direct relationships with upwards of 500 independent retailers, many of which have been stocking Roberts for years. We still do things the old-fashioned way. I get lots of handwritten letters from customers and we always respond by picking up the phone and speaking to them. Those relationships are the most important, and they are at the heart of Roberts.’ Owen Watters, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

When we were founded by Leslie Bidmead and Harry Roberts in 1932 – the start of an amazing journey creating one of the UK’s most loved brands.

Being awarded our first Royal Warrant to HM The Queen in 1955. The company was subsequently granted warrants of appointment by HM The Queen Mother and HRH The Prince of Wales.

3 4 5

Being acquired by Glen Dimplex in 1994. This investment and a continued nurturing approach enabled the business to thrive. Launching the first DAB radio in the UK in 1999, innovating in the field, and driving the latest technology trends.

Launching in 2008, the world’s first solar-powered DAB Radio, playing a role in transitioning to a more sustainable world.

ROBERTS RADIO +44 (0)3330 142505 robertsradio.com robertsradio

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GBB 2024 —— R

ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY On a mission to stage the finest Shakespeare and contemporary plays

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t’s really exciting having Daniel Evans and Tamara Harvey as our new co-artistic directors, offering us a way of thinking differently about ourselves as a brand. Last year was a great one: we celebrated the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s First Folio and welcomed audiences back to our beautiful Swan Theatre in Stratford-Upon-Avon with Hamnet and much more. Everyone everywhere is talking about AI and we need to address the concerns around its use in theatre. But instead of asking if AI is friend or foe, I ask what it offers and how it can extend society’s imagination. When you put technology in artists’ hands, unexpected, unimaginable things can happen. Theatres always work with technology and we’ve been placing new technologies in actors’ hands since 2016 when we staged The Tempest using real-time motion capture and an avatar, enabling Simon Russell Beale and the other actors to express themselves differently. The more human-centred you are around technology, the more possibilities, and we must support the rights of the human – actor, writer or creative. AI can enable human connection, which is absolutely fundamental to theatre and storytelling. Tech allows us to start with people, connecting with them in real time, so they can join in watching a play anywhere in the world, making the experience all the more human.

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Shakespeare is a convener whose 400-year-old stories are still so resonant

and relevant they give us the foundation to be ever-more courageous in what we do. ◆ To appreciate the joy of being in an organisation and gorgeous brand like the RSC. ◆ To appreciate the absolute craft of every individual colleague, because no one person makes a piece of theatre. 248 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘THE HUMANITY OF THEATRE DELIGHTS ME AND PEOPLE WANT HUMAN CONNECTION MORE THAN EVER’ I’m always interested in what hasn’t been done before – how can we coexist comfortably in virtual and live spaces as the new generation does? That’s the future of entertainment. Theatre’s power is demonstrating a complex message through story and we can combine that with technology for the greater good. The humanity of theatre delights me and people want human connection more than ever. It’s not a matter of technology replicating or replacing theatre and story-telling, but adding value to it and being part of a multidisciplinary ecology.’ Sarah Ellis, Director of Digital Development

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

The RSC’s many productions – whether Matilda the Musical or a charming adaptation of Studio Ghibli’s My Neighbour Totoro – are celebrations of the power and joy of storytelling, as inspired by Shakespeare

Peter Brook’s radical 1970 A Midsummer Night’s Dream was a landmark production featuring a white box and trapeze set – still talked about today.

Staging all The Histories between 2000 and 2001, with one company of 34 actors playing 264 roles, culminating in a rare weekend event staging all eight plays.

Matilda The Musical launched in 2010 and continues to pack out London’s Cambridge Theatre. It’s played to 11 million people in over 90 cities worldwide, winning 101 awards.

Shakespeare Live! From the RSC in 2016, marked the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death and was broadcast worldwide starring David Tennant, Benedict Cumberbatch, HRH The Prince of Wales and many more.

My Neighbour Totoro broke box office records in 2022 and won multiple awards. Seeing it at the Barbican in 2023 demonstrated theatre’s beauty and power.

ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY Waterside, Stratford-upon-Avon Warwickshire CV37 6BB rsc.org.uk theRSC

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GBB 2023 —— WHISKY

theLIST

Nine Collectible Bottles of Whisky Berry Bros & Rudd’s JOE WHITTAKER, Global Brand Ambassador, and JONNY MACMILLAN, Spirits Buyer, select the bottles worth buying now

Family owned and operated, Daftmill grows all its own barley on the estate. This is the romantic ideal all distilleries should measure themselves against.

BBR Spirit of Yorkshire

This coastal distillery champions field to bottle distilling with its own grown barley. Six months finishing in a sherry cask gives it rich, oily fruit flavours.

Bowmore 12yo

From Islay’s finest, the balance of gentle peat smoke and tropical fruit is unique in the world of whisky. One to enjoy alongside an unbeatable west coast sunset.

Highland Park Triskelion

Created by Highland Park's last three whisky makers, this is a soft single malt of apricot and bitter oranges balanced with the distillery's iconic aromatic peat.

BOS Copper Rivet

This hugely exciting first indie whisky from Copper Rivet Distillery is one of the best casks we’ve bottled this year: it has unbelievable complexity for its age.

Killowen 5yo

One of Northern Ireland’s smallest and most hands-on distilleries, Killowen makes a traditional spirit with a contemporary twist Bottles of this fiveyear-old whiskey will be hard to find.

Bruichladdich 29yo Black Art 10.1

Selected from the Bruichladdich’s secret casks before it closed down in the nineties, Black Art is a true classic unpeated Islay whisky.

Springbank 15yo

The darling of all whisky nerds, Springbank utilises an old-style production to create one of the best distillates on the planet, full of idiosyncratic Campbeltown charm.

BOS Sutherland 2000 (autumn release)

From a famed distillery in the town of Brora, this malt is revered for its intense fruitiness.

BOS - Berry's Own Selection

PHOTOS: PEXELS

Daftmill

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GBB 2024

SAMUEL HEATH 252 SANDERSON 254 THE SHARD 256

SOFAS & STUFF 262 SOPHIE BREITMEYER 264 STUDIO PDP 266 SUNSPEL 268

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GBB 2024 —— S

SAMUEL HEATH

Brassware manufacturer still innovating after 200 years

‘S

amuel Heath designs and manufactures premium bathroom fittings and architectural hardware from solid brass. We stand alone in having kept all our brass foundry production processes under one roof at our site in Birmingham. Founded in 1820, our brand is built on our people, not only the hands which craft our products, but the entire team. In the ever-increasing digital world, maintaining that personal touch is paramount to growing those authentic connections on which our brand is built. While we are an evolving traditional business, we embrace new technologies and innovation has always been ingrained in the ethos of the business. We have started incorporating AI and automation in our design and engineering processes. We’ve invested in new robotics to free up skilled labour to focus on the more complicated aspects of milling brass. We’re very aware of the efficiencies that AI and automation can bring us, but we’re moving carefully so we can maintain a balance between automation efficiencies while retaining the human touch. We believe in communicating the story of the brand and all the handcrafting skills which we’ve honed over two centuries. Many of our people have been with us most of their working lives and we’re proud to have generations of families that pass down their skills. Bringing interior designers to the factory to experience firsthand how products are made from

Samuel Heath has skilfully integrated tradition and technology into its business

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Recent global events have highlighted how important it is to focus on

energy usage and sustainability. ◆ Your supply partners are crucial to the effectiveness of your own business. ◆ It’s vital to look after your colleagues and strike a balance between introducing new production methods while nurturing skills that have been passed down over generations. 252 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE STAND ALONE IN HAVING KEPT ALL OUR BRASS FOUNDRY PRODUCTION PROCESSES UNDER ONE ROOF AT OUR SITE IN BIRMINGHAM’ start to finish sets us apart. They can discover every process with our team of skilled design engineers and artisans. It gives them the insight to specify our fittings confidently to their clients. We are discovering how we can embrace a hybrid way of communicating with our customers through unveiling the product journey and creating emotional connections. Our brand seeks to become an integral part of the stories that interior designers tell through their creative projects.’ Martyn Whieldon, Managing Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

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The Samuel Heath brand was established in 1820 by Alfred William Heath, the son of designer and maker Samuel Heath.

Samuel Heath designed and manufactured an exclusive brass mantel clock for the Great Exhibition in 1851. Fifth Avenue in New York City became the first Samuel Heath showroom overseas in 1981.

In 2017 Samuel Heath creates brassware for the new residences of Chelsea Barracks, a luxury development in London, followed in 2021 with fittings for The Whiteley in Bayswater.

The Samuel Heath factory frontage is named a Grade II-listed building by English Heritage in 2022, on the site that we have occupied since 1850.

SAMUEL HEATH 100 Leopold Street Birmingham B12 0UJ +44 (0)1217 664200 samuel-heath.com samuelheathofficial

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GBB 2024 —— S

SANDERSON

One of England’s oldest interior furnishing companies believes its future is even brighter than its past

‘W

e have a long and proud history to protect, and to do this we embrace the future. No one can live in the past, and that includes the people who buy our fabrics, wallpapers and home accessories. While they may enjoy the memory of their grandparents’ house, or want their home to reflect a sense of nostalgia, they probably won’t want to recreate their granny’s parlour! This is why we constantly renew, reimagine and rework prints from our vast and wonderful archive while pairing hero designs across the century of Sanderson with new collections. We use our history as a springboard to create work that is entirely contemporary, in the entrepreneurial spirit of our founder, Arthur Sanderson. He began in 1860 by importing Japanese and French wallpapers into the UK, and within six years had built his own wallpaper factory. Since then, Sanderson has grown exponentially, nurturing valuable collaborations. These include Disney, originally commissioned in the late 1920s and revisited so authentically for 2023; interior design studio Salvesen Graham for a Trims Collection enhancing all designs, and Europe’s largest conservation charity, the National Trust. Making full use of the advances brought by the industrial revolutions across the decades has helped us achieve our aims. Digitalisation has transformed enormously the scale on which we can print. Our nature designs are still drawn by hand by our highly skilled artists, and while we still produce block-printed wallpapers, we also print

Sanderson’s Layers of Legacy, styled and photographed by Damian Foxe, celebrates the joy at the heart of Sanderson fabrics and wallpapers. All available from sanderson.sandersondesigngroup.com

Bambi Neapolitan, Disney Home X Sanderson Collection

Tilia Lime fabric in gold

Layers of Legacy collection

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Embrace change and look ahead. Ensuring the brand remains

relevant while preserving its integrity and heritage are not mutually exclusive. ◆ Invest in talented people and give them the space and support they need to grow. Trainees are your future. ◆ Go with your gut and intuition. It’s easy to be swayed by trend reports that predict this or that. 254 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WE HAVE A LONG AND PROUD HISTORY TO PROTECT, AND TO DO THIS WE EMBRACE THE FUTURE’ thousands of metres of fabric and paper in a fraction of the time. Machinery enables us to manipulate colour to a finer degree, and to experiment more than ever, and we are using technology to work in more environmentally friendly ways: we have invested in water and energy efficient systems at our factory in Lancaster, for example. Our business is all about craft and creativity; the best technology and software enhance this.’ Claire Vallis, Design Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

King George V gave us our first Royal Warrant in 1924. Since then, we have held three consecutive Royal Warrants.

Kenneth Truman launched the Hykenham design – one of most beloved prints – in 1939. It is being reimagined as part of the Sanderson x Giles Deacon collection in 2024.

Our 2023 campaign celebrated Sanderson’s timeless beauty across the decades. Styled and shot by Damian Foxe, showcasing the timeless beauty of Sanderson with designs dating from 1914 sitting seamlessly with new collections.

Late 1920s, Walt Disney commissioned a fabric and wallpaper collection from Sanderson. In 2023, we used these designs as inspiration to create the Disney Home x Sanderson collection.

Fernery Botanical Green wallpaper

Pinetum Stripe Sap Green wallpaper

October 2023 saw collaboration with interior design studio Salvesen Graham to launch the first trimmings collection in over a decade. Made in the UK with recycled yarns.

SANDERSON Sanderson Design Group Showroom, Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 0XE +44 (0)20 3903 3700 sanderson.sandersondesigngroup.com sanderson1860

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GBB 2024 —— S

THE SHARD

The iconic London landmark taking business and community skyward

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he Shard was conceived as a ‘vertical city’, designed to host many activities and communities under one roof. Today, the building hosts tenants involved in at least seven distinctly different types of activity, including offices, a hotel, a hospital, restaurants, retail spaces, a university business school and one of London’s best visitor attractions: The View from The Shard. In 2023, we welcomed new occupiers in leading engineering consultancy Rider Levitt Bucknall and data technology company Cognism. We have also seen the growth of existing tenants like law firm Greenberg Traurig, as well as the education excellence of the Warwick Business

The Shard is a community hub as well as a London landmark

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The need for physical office spaces remains high for those wanting to

leverage culture and the potential of their people. ◆ Businesses tend to gravitate towards well-located and well-specified buildings that enhance their image in the eyes of customers and employees. ◆ Iconic buildings like The Shard must remain agile and adapt to meet the needs of the future. 256 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘THE SHARD IS CONTINUALLY LOOKING TO REFLECT ITS STATUS AS A BEACON FOR MODERN LONDON’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 School, developing transformational ideas and people that will shape the future of business. As a landmark location, The Shard is continually looking to reflect its status as a beacon for modern London. We raised the UK’s highest flag to mark the Coronation of King Charles III and reflected national pride at the Lionesses reaching the World Cup final by lighting up our spire with the English flag. As a long-time supporter, The Shard also hosted a Macmillan coffee morning in 2023, with cakes provided by top chefs from Shangri-La The Shard hotel and Oblix restaurant. We are also involved in our surrounding neighbourhood, which was recently enhanced by the installation of a new London Bridge mosaic. To celebrate this, The Shard held a three-day artist-in-residence event with the London School of Mosaic. Occupiers were invited to help build a panel that will form part of the wider installation, drawing on the power of art to strengthen the sense of place and community. We are seeking to grow, welcoming more pioneering businesses, alongside continuing our position as the ideal building for companies looking for a place that helps maximise their potential for success.’ Michael Baker, Chief Executive Officer of REM, the asset manager of The Shard

When the first tenants, like intellectual property lawyers Mathys & Squire and the Al Jazeera media group, moved into The Shard in March 2014.

When the community at The Shard rallied together to support the NHS during the pandemic, including lighting up blue to say a collective ‘thank you’ on behalf of the nation.

When The Shard stepped in to fill the gap left by the nation’s timepiece Big Ben during its restoration and counted down the seconds to midnight during the 2021 New Year’s Eve celebrations.

Welcoming Queen Elizabeth II to The Shard in 2013 so she could take a first look – a proud moment for everyone who had helped conceive and construct this iconic building.

Witnessing The Shard becoming an iconic building often used to define London’s modern skyline in major films and TV programmes like Spider-Man, Mission Impossible, Doctor Who and The Apprentice.

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GBB 2024 —— INNOVATION

DREAM THE POSSIBLE JAMES BIDWELL takes a look at the UK start-ups whose innovations are enhancing the human experience, not hindering it

ILLUSTRATION BY HARRIET NOBLE

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t’s been another crazy year. The world is increasingly unstable. The cost-of-living crisis is a real crisis. Climate change is a harsh reality. The pace of change itself continues to accelerate. It is against this backdrop that those creating and building the brands of the future are operating, and it is clear that innovation and agility – together with strong brand values and ethos – are critical for success. At Springwise, a global innovation intelligence platform that delivers solutions for positive and sustainable change across all sectors, we have a unique window on the world, tracking the innovators who are inventing the solutions we need for the future. This looks across all industries from health to agriculture, retail to travel, the future of our cities and built environment, to next-gen transport and infrastructure solutions. Diving into how the newest brands and their leaders are responding and growing successful businesses in this era of disruption, and connecting to the theme of this issue – being human in a disconnected world – what becomes clear is that, while advanced technology underpins a large percentage of today’s innovation, the goal for these fledgling businesses is to enhance the human experience. Springwise’s research shows that innovation is enabling a human-centric approach across all areas of our lives: our homes, our health, how we spend our free time and how we can make choices that have a positive planetary impact.

Innovative businesses are making how we live in, and move around, cities more efficient

Around the world, more people are moving into cities: by 2050 more than two thirds of the world’s population will live in urban areas, if UN predictions are correct. According to the Greater London Authority, the capital will see its population grow to nearly ten million by the 2040s. This brings with it all the advantages that cities offer society – access to a greater number and variety of jobs, as well as education and culture. However, the environmental cost is a real issue: cities are responsible for about 75 percent of global greenhouse emissions, part of which can be attributed to inefficient road transport networks. Cardiff-based start-up Route Konnect claims that the UK’s roads are up to 30 percent inefficient when it comes to reducing pollution. Their solution is a technology that anonymously analyses video feeds to provide real-time insights into the ways in which people move around – whether in a vehicle or by foot. These insights can then be used to make planning decisions that improve air quality and optimise traffic flow. Route Konnect does not rely on privacy-infringing technologies, such as facial or automatic number-plate recognition. Instead, it works by analysing flows across multiple cameras matching the paths travelled by vehicles and humans across different camera views. When aggregated, this system has an accuracy rate of 98 percent, which is invaluable to councils and property developers as well as optimising routes for emergency services and delivery vehicles. In a future world of autonomous vehicles, this tech could be used to help them navigate cities and complex road systems.

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH

WHERE WE LIVE

INNOVATION —— GBB 2024

Outside of the city, RideTandem is a ‘demand-responsive’ mobile app, which makes transportation in rural areas both more sustainable and more affordable. Against a backdrop of the axing of almost 5,000 bus services in rural areas between 2012 and 2022, RideTandem has partnered with taxi, minicab and coach services to offer an affordable, shuttle-like service for commuters living in areas with poor and expensive transport links. The side benefit of this is, of course, reduced carbon emissions while mobilising communities who live in remote areas, and the opportunity for more people to get out and about.

WHERE WE WORK

The built environment has a tremendous impact on our productivity, health, wellbeing and quality of life. However, to truly enhance these factors, building design needs to move beyond optimising single parameters such as light and temperature, and embrace a fully holistic approach. That is exactly what British firm Incube Space is doing. Incube has developed a predictive building intelligence platform called CubeOS that pulls together data from all parts of a structure, including the building management system (electricals), HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning), air-quality sensors, door-access systems, meeting room booking systems, and hundreds more technologies. The data is then put through the CubeOS predictive analytics model to generate actions that optimise conditions. CubeOS can take proactive actions to ensure that a space is always comfortable – for example, lowering the air temperature if a space is filling up with people and growing warming, or turning lights off when they are not in use. Not only does the system keep conditions optimal for comfort and productivity, it also reduces costs. According to Incube, the system can lower energy waste by up to 40 percent and significantly reduce complaints about temperature and air quality. This also increases rental premium on commercial properties. Incube has found that 46 percent of office tenants would pay at least at least a ten percent premium in rent for a fully tech-enabled building – so good news for landlords in an increasingly difficult environment.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH

does this save customers unnecessary time and money, it also cuts out the large volume of plastic packaging that is thrown away when customers buy multiple tubs of vitamin pills. SkinStacks and other Nourished products, in comparison, come in completely recyclable plastic-free packaging, including home-compostable wrappers. Innovation is also driving more mindful behaviour in customer behaviour outside the home. Skoot is a multifaceted platform for the hospitality industry with a variety of solutions that help businesses, communities and individuals cut their carbon footprints by enabling them to offset, identify and avoid carbon emissions. Many of us love to eat out but not everyone considers the carbon footprint of the restaurant experience – as we do when we fly, for example. Skoot integrates with restaurant till systems so that customers can see an optional eco-contribution line when they receive the bill. This payment offsets the carbon generated by the meal and Skoot has already planted more than 800,000 trees to offset more than 4,000 tonnes of carbon. While reduction is the absolute goal, this tool is an important stage in educating encouraging both hospitality companies and diners along the path to net zero. And finally, what if you could pay for your meal out and make a positive impact on scientific research furthering innovation in climate change mitigation or healthcare? Science Card is a free-toopen Mastercard debit card and current account, and allows users to explore available research projects and choose which ones to support. Money is collected either with a direct payment or via micro-grants from rounding-up common expenses. The company itself dedicates ten percent of its profits to scientific research. Cardholders also receive more conventional benefits, such as immersive spending data, and the company plans to offer cashback on certain sales, including books, coffee and software. Innovations such as these offer optimism and inspiration, and illustrate that it’s possible to find solutions for the world’s most pressing macro problems – such as carbon emissions and pollution – while considering the people just trying to go about their everyday lives. We are a nation of innovators – that’s a cause for hope.

WHAT WE EAT

In the UK and beyond there is a growing health crisis as people struggle with obesity, loneliness and other ailments. On the other side of the coin – and the demographic divide – more and more people are becoming aware and invested in health and wellness. A sub-sector of this sphere, nutricosmetics – supplements and foods with beauty benefits – is projected to boom with, Straits Research estimating the global industry will be worth almost $16 million (about £12.7 million) by 2030. Nourished, a UK company that creates personalised 3D-printed chewable vitamins, is joining the growing nutricosmetics industry with its innovative new skincare supplements. The vitamins, called SkinStacks, are created following a short two-minute online quiz that assesses your day-to-day health, exercise and energy levels, as well as your desired outcomes – whether that’s increased focus, more sleep or better skin. Customers are then recommended a bespoke seven-layer stack of vitamins, minerals and probiotics, which is made in SkinStacks’ state-of-the-art UK lab from ethically sourced, traceable ingredients. Because the vitamins are made-to-order, Nourished avoids wasteful overproduction. And crucially, SkinStacks and other Nourished products combine multiple science-backed ingredients in one supplement. Not only

Springwise publishes the top three innovations for positive change each day online at springwise.com and on the Springwise app. It has been doing this for 20 years and boasts an innovation database that is not only packed with inspiration, but is a fascinating lens on the change we have been living. n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 261

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SOFAS & STUFF

British company creating high-quality designs, tailored to clients’ individual requirements

‘W

e recently established our own factory in Preston, strategically tapping into a pool of highly skilled individuals in the area. Our commitment is to make beautiful furniture that reflects your unique style, much like your wardrobe. Whether you envision distinct design details or a specific fabric, we offer the flexibility to tailor your sofa – adjusting size, depth, and cushion interiors. Every piece is a one-of-a-kind creation, which is a manufacturing challenge, but also our raison d’être and a key point of difference. At Sofas & Stuff, our most valuable asset is our people. They are the heartbeat of our business, embodying our commitment to exceptional service. Placing customers at the forefront, followed closely by our dedicated teams in the showrooms, the factory and our distribution centre, we prioritise investment in training and nurturing the next generation. Upholsterers, for instance, undergo a rigorous five-year training, ensuring mastery in their craft. Upholding traditional furnituremaking skills is vital, and as the seasoned craftspeople age, we remain steadfast in recruiting the best talent to prevent the erosion of these invaluable skills. One source of pride since our factory’s inception is our approach to work-life balance. Our team operates on a four-day working week, condensing

Sofas & Stuff is a family-founded, family-run company, started by the Cussins (below) in 2009

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Always go for the best person you can employ. ◆ Always understand

the numbers. However creative you are, the answer is always in the numbers. ◆ Be honest with yourself about your strengths and weaknesses, what you’re good at and what you’re not good at. 262 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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a five-day workload without compromising productivity. Any necessary overtime is scheduled on Fridays, granting our team a well-deserved three-day weekend. This innovative approach is very popular among our workforce and helps foster a harmonious and productive environment. I’m sure AI will become very important but how useful it will be for the type of relatively straightforward manufacturing we do, I’m not so sure. As the CEO and founder of Sofas & Stuff, I am deeply committed to longevity, a belief rooted in our identity as a family business. We take the long view, understanding the importance of sustained growth and prosperity.’ Andrew Cussins, CEO and founder

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

‘EVERY PIECE IS A ONE-OFF CREATION, WHICH IS A MANUFACTURING CHALLENGE, BUT ALSO OUR RAISON D’ÊTRE AND A KEY POINT OF DIFFERENCE’

For us, family equals business, so beyond the joy of raising our four grown-up children, welcoming our first grandchild, Etta, 18 months ago, was a cherished moment.

Leading and managing a flourishing team that has grown to just under 200 individuals is testament to the opportunities we create.

The successful launch of our production facility in Preston in 2022 marking a pivotal moment in our company’s growth, establishing a foundation for continued success.

Achieving the satisfaction of making over 7,000 customers happy each year speaks volumes for our unwavering commitment to excellence and customer service.

Becoming recognised as a fabric as well as a furniture brand is an exciting and natural progression for us, aligning with our vision for the future.

SOFAS & STUFF The Dairy, Tripp Hill Farm Buildings, Fittleworth, West Sussex RH20 1ER +44 (0)1798 300154 sofasandstuff.com sofasandstuff

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SOPHIE BREITMEYER

Exquisite bespoke jewellery that will be treasured by future generations

‘W

e are a multi-generational modern family jeweller and as such we’ve built relationships with individual clients, helping them celebrate life’s important milestones, like births and marriages. We’ve aimed to create a homeaway-from-home at our Notting Hill studio. There are no bright lights or big glass cabinets here! Instead, we’ve created a comfortable, welcoming space to return to again and again, which has helped us build close, enduring relationships. Buying jewellery can be intimidating, as something like an engagement ring can be the most significant piece you’ll ever invest in, imbued with love, hope and promise. Our collections are colourful and inspired by Art Deco. We use recycled gold, diamonds from dealers who adhere to the Kimberley Process, and stones sourced directly from small mines where possible. When people come in for a consultation or to browse, we educate them about the different golds, gemstones and the diamond’s four Cs – colour, cut, clarity and carat – so they feel comfortable making choices. That’s where technology comes in. Things can be lost in translation with a handdrawing and lead to disappointment, whereas we use CAD/CAM and 3D printing so people can see precisely what we’re creating. Taking the unknowns away is reassuring and creates a bond of trust when you’re taking the plunge with a meaningful investment. Our business has two arms: we design bespoke jewellery and transform family heirlooms – for example, we’ll turn your grandmother’s exquisite brooch into a

Sophie (below) aims to create modern-day heirlooms, as well as transforming beloved family gems

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ That word of mouth is more powerful than almost anything else to

promote your brand. ◆ Sophie Breitmeyer is nothing without its loyal employees and customers. I wanted to reignite the idea of ‘A Family Jeweller’, with an emphasis on family. ◆ Without a shadow of a doubt, diamonds really are a girl’s best friend. 264 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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contemporary, wearable piece – but we also offer a ready-to-wear collection that celebrates life’s important moments, and we can personalise that jewellery with birthstones or engraving. Our aim is to help you create your own distinct jewellery wardrobe for life, so we’re not trend-led but focused on giving you the finest classics, like the perfect gold chain or a stunning, timeless engagement ring, pieces to treasure and pass on.’ Sophie Breitmeyer, founder and Creative Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Making our first bespoke engagement ring in 2011. Since then that’s what we’ve become known for and have made over 500 more of them.

Attracting the attention of many celebrities with our ready-to-wear collections – seeing Rihanna wearing our jewellery in 2013 was incredible.

3 4

Opening our Notting Hill studio in 2020, which felt like such an achievement.

Launching our first Mine to Mount collection in 2023, with stones sourced directly from small mines. All profits go to Gem Legacy, which supports gemmining communities.

5 ‘WE’VE AIMED TO CREATE A HOME-FROM-HOME AT OUR NOTTING HILL SHOP’

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Being asked to make jewellery for a member of the Royal Family, which was a thrilling moment.

SOPHIE BREITMEYER 24 Powis Terrace, London W11 1JH +44 (0)20 7243 2253 sophiebreitmeyer.com sophiebreitmeyer

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STUDIO PDP

The architects designing for people and place

Studio PDP is known for its skilful integration of contemporary architecture within a historic setting

‘WHEN IT COMES TO ARCHITECTURE, THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THE HUMAN TOUCH, EYE AND EXPERIENCE’

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‘L

ast year saw our brand evolve from PDP London to Studio PDP. Built around our core pillars of ‘people, design and place’, the name reflects the care, detail and craft which goes into our work as a design-led, people-focused practice. This year is our 30th anniversary, we’re proud to have a diverse portfolio for a range of clients, new and old, including London Estates, charitable foundations and developers with exciting aspirations for low-carbon, socially impactful buildings. In 2023 we saw permission granted to combine three sites along Sloane Street, Hans Crescent and Pavilion Road to create a characterful,

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

mixed-use development . Sensitively designed to reflect its context, the development forms part of Cadogan’s strategy to transform and enhance this vibrant neighbourhood. We’re currently working on 8 Eaton Lane for CIT; breathing new life into one of Belgravia’s most historic Grade II-listed addresses. Due for completion in 2024, the fossil fuel-free development comprises 42 luxury residences atop seven retail units, wrapped in a meticulously reinstated façade. Our retrofit and reimagining of Oxford Street’s former House of Fraser store as a vibrant mix of offices, upgraded retail space and leisure facilities is ongoing. We’re also transforming Piccadilly’s former In and Out Club into the five-star Cambridge House Hotel, complete with seven private residences. Further afield, we’re delivering the prestigious Landmark on Robson development for Asia Standard Americas in downtown Vancouver, collaborating with local architects MCM. It comprises retail space, offices and two residential towers joined by a podium (housing myriad shared amenities). When it comes to architecture, there is no substitute for the human touch, eye and experience. We understand how people live, work and spend their time. Whether it’s a home, a workspace, or a community, our goal is to fulfil the fundamental human need for spaces that are not just functional, but enriching and meaningful.’

The launch of The Gaumont for Cadogan; opening this year is a new commercial and cultural anchor on the King’s Road housing a rooftop bar, cinema, workspaces, residences, retail and ‘creative cluster’.

Rebuilding Regent’s Crescent to the original Grade I-listed John Nash design, with a mix of beautiful new apartments, mews houses and retrofitted apartments.

3 4

Designing 28 homes with a contemporary aesthetic at Whitesands, the tranquil coastal region of South Lantau. Completing Duke of York Square, the award-winning public square, with multiple uses that has become a key destination on the King’s Road.

The completion of four projects at Chelsea Barracks: restoration of the Garrison Chapel, restaurant, new townhouses and a mews house.

STUDIO PDP 5-6 Eccleston Yards London SW1W 9AZ +44 (0)20 7730 1178 studiopdp.com studiopdp

Pedro Roos, Andrew Davidson and Alec Howard, Partners

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Collaboration fuels innovation: our team thrives on the distinct expertise

everyone brings to the table. ◆ Adaptability in a dynamic landscape: Architecture is ever-evolving so we know the importance of staying agile and adaptable. ◆ Client and user-centric focus: our success hinges on the satisfaction of the people who use our spaces and places. Beyond designing buildings, we are crafting experiences.

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SUNSPEL

A luxury British brand creating beautiful, long-lasting, everyday clothing since 1860

‘T

he vision of our founder was to make everyday luxury clothing from the world’s finest materials and the brand is still committed to this vision today. The fabrics that we use are extremely fine, soft, lightweight and difficult to work with. Consequently, the human touch has always been a crucial part of making our clothes which become long-lasting, wardrobe favourites. The Sunspel classic T-shirt is made in our factory at Long Eaton where we employ around 30 people. Every T-shirt goes through 12 careful steps carried out by enormously skilled craftspeople. At the end of the process, each T-shirt is finished by a member of staff who places a sticker bearing his or her name on the garment, allowing every customer to see the name of the person who finished the T-shirt. Every time I visit our factory, I am struck by the enormous care our team take over the making of what, for many, might appear to be a simple garment. The skills we need are not easily picked up and we are fortunate to have a loyal workforce. Some employees have been with the company for decades and we have several generations of the same families working for us. People stay with our brand because of the way we look after them. This personal approach extends to the way we treat our customers, whether in our stores or online. AI is clearly gathering enormous momentum: every day we read about its potential.

Sunspel has built its reputation on bringing a touch of luxury to everyday wardrobe essentials

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ What a great foundation Sunspel has. ◆ The genuine affection in which

the brand is held by its customers. ◆ As a newish CEO, the importance of understanding the brand, the business, and its people.

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‘THE HUMAN TOUCH HAS ALWAYS BEEN A CRUCIAL PART OF MAKING OUR CLOTHES’ Sunspel has always been an innovative brand and we are excited by the opportunity AI brings. I can see how it might help brands in different ways, but at the moment it’s a distant prospect for Sunspel. Probably its first applications with us would be to support the team with analysing data rather than more front-facing activities.’ Raul Verdicchi, CEO

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Thomas Hill establishing the business in Nottingham in 1860 with a vision to craft luxurious everyday clothing from the world’s finest natural materials.

2 3 4

Making some of the world’s earliest T-shirts in the early 1900s. The Sunspel classic T-shirt is still made in our British factory.

Introducing the boxer short to Britain in 1947. In 1985 Nick Kamen famously wore a pair in the celebrated Levi’s laundrette advert. Collaborating with costume designer Lindy Hemming in 2006 to dress James Bond in Casino Royale, tailoring the Riviera polo shirt for Daniel Craig.

Opening our first US store on Mercer Street, New York City, in 2018. Sunspel also has American stores on Madison Avenue and in Marin County, California.

SUNSPEL 13-15 Chiltern Street London W1U 7PG +44 (0)20 7009 0650 sunspel.com sunspelclothing

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Photography by Andrew Beasley Photography by Andrew Beasley

BRINGING ART TO LIGHT

KENWOOD HOUSE - TM MASTERLIGHT KENWOOD HOUSE - TM MASTERLIGHT

The leading international art lighting specialist, transforming works of art for The leading international art lighting specialist, transforming works of art for

Great Great British British Treasure Treasure Houses, Houses, Galleries Galleries & & Museums, Museums, Private Collections and your home. Private Collections and your home. TMLIGHTING.COM TMLIGHTING.COM

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THEO FENNELL 276 THOMAS LYTE 278 TROY LONDON 284 TURNBULL & ASSER 286 TUSTING 288

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TAYLOR HOWES DESIGNS

Teamwork, communication and a touch of technology

‘W

e grew our business slowly and persistently, building up contacts, trust and knowledge. Taylor Howes is now one of the UK’s largest high-end interior studios. Our focus lies in creating refined, highly customised residential, commercial and hospitality environments, which make people feel happy. Technology has changed the industry hugely in the last 20 years, and is an invaluable tool in delivering increasingly complex projects. We used to do everything by hand; now we can easily alter a CAD [computeraided design] layout 20 times until we get it right, which helps eliminate any doubts the client may have. The use of AI in design is easily debatable. On one hand it absorbs tedious tasks, allowing creative companies more time for creativity and improves accuracy, but it’s not emotional, nor intrinsically intelligent, despite its name. CGI which has pathed the way for AI in the design process is readily used, though they still rely on human input, CGIs have become part of a client’s design journey. From our Swiss Alps project, to our recent hospitality project, Chateau Denmark, we used CGIs throughout. You will never get AI to be able to read the temperature in the room, pick up the nuances, which

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Karen Howes, CEO and Jane Landino, Creative and Design Head of Studio; an apartment within One Grosvenor Square; dining room within One Grosvenor Square apartment; living room in One Kensington Gardens apartment project

is what we do.We are yet to see how it interprets individualised taste – something you learn through experience. Groundwork aside, AI is never going to be able to make really high-end luxury interiors. We must consider the human cost. One of the founders of AI, in an interview with Steven Bartlett, said, “It’s terrifying. It has to be regulated.” I’m concerned about employment in future generations. Going to work gives human beings meaning and purpose, and prevents isolation. My team is my second family, and looking after each other is something AI can’t do. We are all about people and communication. Is the client going to trust a robot for that? I can’t see it happening in my time.’ Karen Howes, CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Involve your team in setting the business tone and goals. Our team decided

our core values – be kind, honest and passionate. ◆ The old adage ‘You’re only as good as your last piece of work’ is true. Never, ever rest on your laurels – strive to be the best. ◆ Love what you do. Your passion needs to shine through. 272 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘YOU WILL NEVER GET AI TO BE ABLE TO READ THE TEMPERATURE IN THE ROOM, PICK UP THE NUANCES’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

My directors, collectively, have been with me for nearly 50 years, and Jane, the creative head, for over 20 of those. We have worked on many major London developments, with 60 percent repeat business. My first-ever client, 30 years ago, is now one of my best friends – we’ve completed over 1,000 projects.

We’ve supported Place2Be for 20 years, training counsellors for underprivileged schools. For Rest Nest we’ve completed 18 rooms for nurses.

4 5

Winning International Interior Designer of the Year 2023, and also Project of the Year.

In June 2023 we celebrated 30 years in business and I’m still as passionate about it as the day I started.

TAYLOR HOWES DESIGNS 49-51 Cheval Place, Knightsbridge London SW7 1EW +44 (0)20 7349 9017 taylorhowes.co.uk taylorhowesdesigns

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THEATRE ROYAL DRURY LANE A star reborn offering all-day five-star comfort

‘A

s our first year after refurbishing and really establishing ourselves as a fully functional building, 2023 proved a triumph. We’re Disney’s landlord, enabling it to put on shows like Frozen, now in its second successful year, with little girls in blue dresses from all over the world enjoying a magical time. Seventy-five percent of theatres are empty outside performances but we wanted people in our building from morning to night, so just as important are our theatre tours, art, architecture, and food and drink, and now the place is vibrant. We transformed horrible little Vinegar Yard, housing a leaky, disgusting fire-escape, into a

wonderful garden terrace as part of Jamie Oliver’s cosy next-door restaurant. Our key differential is we’re not a corporation but a family business and so is Jamie’s, and our brands go hand-inhand. We’re all about creating a really special, comfortable occasion, which is partly why we reduced the theatre’s capacity from 2,000 to 1,800 and put in 60 extra ladies’ loos. This is probably London’s most important, extraordinary Regency building, with two royal boxes and identical mirrored staircases, for king and prince. We were the first to employ a top hotel interior designer to achieve a five-star theatre. People feel they’re somewhere like Claridge’s

rather than a renovated theatre. It tells a story of great British craft – even our ice-cream and confectionery are housed in bespoke cabinets. But my job was making the building functional, so everything behind the stunning cladding is incredibly high tech. Without tech, Drury Lane would have withered and died. Our proscenium auditorium can adapt to plays in the round and we sought out the smartest digital ticketing system there is for theatre. Hidden tech enables the smooth presentation of a beautiful human, sensory and memorable experience. Madeleine Lloyd Webber, owner

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Recovering from our specially commissioned furniture being destroyed in a factory fire, to be ready for Prince Charles’s visit in May 2021, just before we opened in June.

2 3

Landing the contract with Disney to stage Frozen, which opened in September 2021.

Our architects, Haworth Tompkins, receiving the 2023 RIBA London Award for the completion of a major restoration of a Grade I-listed building.

4 5

After an extensive restoration, the theatre has been transformed into a destination for all-day entertainment, including afternoon tea, dining, drinking, art and culture

Being constantly listed among the top five venues in London for afternoon tea.

Hosting Vogue World in September 2023 after Anna Wintour rang up and said, ‘Honestly, there’s nothing like this building, we have to host Vogue World here.’ She’s hardly easy to please, so we were thrilled!

THEATRE ROYAL DRURY LANE Catherine Street London WC2B 5JF +44 (0)20 3925 2999 thelane.co.uk thelaneldn

‘HIDDEN TECH ENABLES THE SMOOTH PRESENTATION OF A BEAUTIFUL HUMAN, SENSORY AND MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE’

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Put people’s comfort and enjoyment before everything. ◆ Never just rely

on an architect but hire the right interior designer to match your strategy and build. ◆ It’s a responsibility and privilege to be a custodian of a historic building, so commit to leaving it in a better state than you found it in. COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 275

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THEO FENNELL

Creating rare, beautiful, handmade jewellery

‘W

e’ve had a good year. I’m very happy with our showroom and workshop in Chelsea Barracks, and it’s the first time in years that I’m seeing some sort of heart and humanity creeping back into commerce. So many people have been worrying that commerce has lost its soul and everyone’s just wandering around trying to make money. But people are starting again to see how wonderful it is to make things and be creative, even if it’s gardening or cooking. This is no time for brash, aggressive souls and I’m seeing an encouraging level of altruism – people are

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Seeing my name above the door when we opened the first store on Sydney Street in 1978. My mother said my father would be turning in his grave.

really trying to make life better for each other. So, it’s important to get involved in work that gives people satisfaction and makes them happy. The idea of things being made by hand and the skills needed have always been astonishing to me. The old days of being interested in how shoes or suits are made or furniture is built are coming back and people are increasingly fascinated by the creative process. They certainly want more than just cheerful – but absurdly expensive – fashion jewellery round their necks, stuff with a brand label on it but designed with very little thought. So, our new handmade pieces and collections have been very popular this year. Though AI is a great mimic, I can’t believe it could ever be Mozart or Shakespeare. But one thing it might well do is push people further towards genuine human endeavour, creativity and originality. Now our hope is to provide schools with work benches and tools so 12-year-olds can give jewellery-making a try. After all, you’d never know you were a gifted musician without access to a piano. Our Leopards and Gilded Youth apprenticeship schemes are doing well and it would be fantastic for our trade to attract more young people.’

2 3

Opening in America in Niemann Marcus in 1988 and being asked to design a collection for Tiffany.

Seeing Elton John wearing a piece of Theo Fennell jewellery on television and the front page of a national newspaper in 1980.

4 5

Opening our iconic flagship store in Fulham Road in 1987.

Buying the business back in 2020, and moving into the new flagship boutique in Chelsea Barracks in 2022.

THEO FENNELL 2 Garrison Square, Chelsea Barracks, London SW1W 8BG +44 (0)20 7591 5002 theofennell.com officialtheofennell

Theo Fennell’s unique designs are known for their exquisite craftsmanship and bold use of colour

Theo Fennell, founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Find your voice, be true to it and don’t let people persuade you otherwise. ◆ Never sell your name unless you intend to walk away from the business. ◆ Enjoy what you do or it’s pointless. If you set out just to make money,

you’ll be a ruthless, disappointed dullard.

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THOMAS LYTE

The world’s leading designers of bespoke silverware and iconic sporting trophies

‘L

ast year was frenetic but fantastic, topped off by landing the biggest order in the history of our business. We’ve extended our workshops, which opened in 2018, to over 12,000 sq/ft, so now we’re one of Europe’s largest silversmiths and our business is truly global. Design-led, bespoke silverware is in huge demand. When we launched in 2005, many luxury goods companies had moved to Asia and we wanted to bring true, handcrafted luxury back to Britain. Currently, I’m working hard with my team to recognise that success is not about firefighting and problemsolving but lateral thinking, finding alternative ways to grow and thrive. It’s why we embrace AI – not to is myopia. After all, traditional skills are always changing – the lathe didn’t exist before 1700. To excel at any traditional craft, you need great tools, so our workshops combine science lab and antiquity harmoniously. I see AI as a wonderful tool, because craft should recognise where modernity and technology leads it. AI is still in its infancy and while some are afraid of it, the reality is humans will adapt. And for businesses like ours,

Although a relatively young brand, Thomas Lyte has made great strides in the craft world since it launched

technology is explosively exciting because we can create a fantastic piece of animated silverware to look at it from 360 degrees in all its glory. And technology helps connect with more humans globally, meaning we’re able to work effortlessly with countries all over the world. It’s also essential to our ethos to give back. In our first year we launched the Thomas Lyte Modern Heritage Award with the Craft Council. Contributions like this, along with our latest creation, the Baton of Hope for suicide awareness and prevention, have helped to promote our culture and are ultimately a part of our success. I believe a really great business is an alchemy of fantastic relationships, human service and technical expertise. Kevin Baker, founder and CEO

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Surround yourself with the best possible people and then invest in them,

engage fully, trust them and let them fly so they exceed their own expectations. ◆ Have a super-clear mission and set of values and always know where you’re going. ◆ Always celebrate your successes. 278 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Opening the Burlington Arcade store in 2010 and going on to host numerous events there.

Being one of the youngest brands to be awarded a Royal Warrant by Her Majesty the Queen in 2014 and having that renewed six years later when we were just eight years old.

Being asked to make the FA Cup, the world’s most iconic football trophy for the oldest national football competition in the world, first played around 1871.

Opening our London workshop in 2018, bringing leading edge technology like 3D printing, scanning and electroforming to boost and improve handmaking skills.

Being commissioned by the Royal Warrant Holders Association to design and create the Processional Cross, presented as a gift to Her Majesty The Queen on her Platinum Jubilee.

‘GREAT BUSINESS IS AN ALCHEMY OF FANTASTIC RELATIONSHIPS, HUMAN SERVICE

THOMAS LYTE Building 9, Hurlingham Business Park, London SW6 3DU +44 (0)20 7751 8844 thomaslyte.com thomaslyte

AND TECHNICAL EXPERTISE’

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GBB 2024 —— AI

IS THE

PEN

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MIGHTIER THAN

AI?

IRENOSEN OKOJIE explores AI’s repercussions for writers and their artistic practices in a rapidly changing landscape Creativity-V5-AW.indd 281

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GBB 2024 —— AI

world in which artificial intelligence permeates the landscape was long uncharted terrain. It loomed in the background nefariously, like a technological juggernaut waiting to be unleashed. When companies began incorporating AI into their organisations and scaling back on staff in the late 2000s, it felt indicative of an inescapable future. Having spent years perfecting my craft as a writer, the thought of artificial intelligence replacing artists and writers seemed an exaggerated, panic-fuelled vision of the future, something out of a Luc Besson film. Like many writers, I pushed the niggling worry to the back of mind. Surely the conscience, artistry and ethos writers contribute to a culture can’t be replaced or duplicated? Writers and artists have long been the consciousness of their nations: political, bold and, in some cases, willing to put their lives on the line to shine a light on issues no politician would risk. It seemed Orwellian that such authenticity could be mimicked by technology. In Bernardine Evaristo’s galvanising speech on AI’s impact at the Royal Society of Literature summer party, the Booker Prize-winning author cleverly and pithily dissected poems from an AI generator and compared them to those of a real poet. We can marvel at how far the technology has come, but the difference was stark. The essence of the poet was missing. But there are now writers embracing AI, and using it in dynamic ways to present disruptive explorations where writer and AI join forces to challenge what an artist’s process looks like. In his daringly experimental book, Pharmako-AI, published by Ignota Books, sci-fi writer and Google AI curator Kenric Allado-McDowell uses GPT-3 technology to co-write. He is the first author to do so in a collection of stories and poems. In essence the book is a radically political and metaphysical critique of the idea of the ‘individual’. It’s a pastiche of stories, fragments, essays, song and memoir exploring intelligence and consciousness of human, machine, plant and the transpersonal. There are also themes of climate change, the mythological processes of creation and the power of indigenous ecological knowledge, hyperspace, language, and the multiverse. I loved the freedom of form in this book as well as Allado-McDowell’s wildly expansive explorations of AI, how we treat the earth, and our relationships with plant and animal life. Perhaps less accessible from an obvious standpoint because it’s such a leftfield book, that doesn’t take away from its power and often profound wisdom.

Equally progressive in its intentions is My Child, the Algorithm by performance artist, playwright and poet Hannah Silva. In a brilliant non-fiction offering, Silva uses AI to deconstruct standard narratives and construct a new, more unexpected one. The result is an alternatively intelligent book of love that explores queer single parenting and love in conversation with an AI algorithm and her toddler. In doing so, Silva creates a series of unreliable narrators while raising the stakes for what’s possible in terms of form. It’s a warm embrace of a book, which may sound odd for a work about AI, yet it’s by turns funny, vulnerable and illuminating. It has a sense of intimacy and mischief, with Silva bringing the reader into her experiences of motherhood and falling in love as a queer woman with the AI algorithm. In its previous iteration, the book was a BBC 4 radio play, recorded by Killing Eve actress Fiona Shaw. It’s important to note that Silva is one of the more daring performance artists in the UK so it feels fitting she should channel new technologies to push the limits of storytelling as well as use the project to traverse different media. Rather than being wary of AI technology, Silva chooses to embrace it on her own terms. In an interview with Queen Mary University’s drama department Silva relays her intentions: ‘I always enjoy finding new ways to generate material to work with. In the past, I’ve cut up writing methods a lot where I splice together existing texts then subvert their meanings. Working with an algorithm is an extension of these procedural writing methods. I wanted to think about love and wondered what a machine learning algorithm might be able to teach me about it.’ For some authors, the scales have tipped and not in their favour. With billions being spent by AI companies, there are genuine concerns that it’s those from marginalised communities who will suffer the most, as is so often the case. In a letter organised by the Authors Guild, the biggest professional writers’ organisation in the US, signatories such as Margaret Atwood, James Patterson and Viet Thanh Nguyen demanded that AI companies stop using copyrighted work without permission, shining a light on ‘inherent injustices in exploiting our works as part of your AI systems without our consent, credit or compensation’. Alongside this is the worry that writers from under-represented communities won’t be able to earn a living fairly. They’re often already at a disadvantage, so how can they be expected to thrive given the potential repercussions of AI? Generative AI models such as ChatGPT deploy large troves of internet data to create content that mimics human speech. AI systems mine the aesthetics, works, ideas and styles of real authors without compensating them, and vast amounts of money are being spent to

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

‘AS EVER, WRITERS AND ARTISTS WILL DO WHAT THEY’VE ALWAYS DONE, WHICH IS RESPOND TO THE TIMES, EMBRACE TECHNOLOGIES CREATIVELY WHILE IMPLEMENTING NEW PATHWAYS TO MINE THE ENDLESSLY FASCINATING CONUNDRUM OF WHAT IT MEANS TO BE HUMAN’

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The furore around AI and its potential to mine the aesthetics, works, ideas and styles of real authors without compensating them became a rallying cry in Hollywood resulting in the writers’ strike

develop these technologies continuously. The furore about this has raged for months, becoming a rallying cry in Hollywood and resulting in the 148-day writers’ strike. The ongoing battle was temporarily resolved only after screenwriters secured some guardrails against the use of AI technology in the workplace. A new agreement between the Writers Guild and the Alliance of Motion Picture and Television Producers doesn’t stop all use of AI, since both parties recognise it as a beneficial tool in aspects of scriptwriting and filmmaking. A proposal deal declares that writers can use AI if the company agrees to it although a company cannot require a writer to use AI software. There’s no doubt that AI potentially threatens real writers, who could become increasingly defunct with more companies choosing to go down the artificial intelligence route. Capitalism will always throw up individuals and companies who will ruthlessly exploit AI for

financial gain. While there are legitimate concerns about the impact of AI for writers, it feels a little like the conversation that crops up every few years about whether physical books are still relevant. As ever, writers and artists will do what they’ve always done, which is respond to the times, embrace technologies creatively while implementing new pathways to mine the endlessly fascinating conundrum of what it means to be human. Both Pharmako-AI and My Child, the Algorithm break new ground, presenting complex, dextrous offerings about what the world could be. They’re audacious books audiences are ready for. I remain cautiously optimistic about our survival. Irenosen Okojie MBE is an award-winning Nigerian-British writer. She is the director and founder of Black to the Future, a multidisciplinary Afrofuturistic festival n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 283

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GBB 2024 —— T

TROY LONDON Timeless British clothing that is designed to last

‘M

y sister Lucia and I started TROY London because we couldn’t find outerwear that performed well in the outdoors and also looked stylish. Our initial focus was on womenswear, but we’ve since launched capsule collections for men and children, which we hope to expand in time. We’re a small business, so any growth has to be planned meticulously. Our aim was to create a heritage brand that represented our values and met the demands of our own daily lives. We wanted those who bought our clothes to wear and love them for years – decades even – and to feel special in them. We prioritised quality, performance, style, timelessness, sustainability and smallbatch production in UK factories, mainly because the workmanship is outstanding but also to keep our carbon footprint down. We design on paper, the old-fashioned way! We love creating moodboards that we can refer back to during the creative process. Design software has an important role to play too, particularly when we are evolving initial creative sketches into technical drawings and samples. Technology is essential, and the list of benefits it delivers is endless: algorithms bring our brand to the attention of people who might like our clothing; social media enables us to establish and maintain an on-going

Rosie and her sister Lucia saw a gap in the market for stylish outerwear that still protected from the British elements

dialogue with our customers, and to create a community for them; and video content brings our clothing to life. People can get a clearer idea of how it fits and moves, how it performs in the rain, and so on. We’re tentatively stepping into AI. It’s shaping our lives so it can’t be ignored. It can give us insights into our customers, help us to enhance their shopping experience, and speed up innovation. At the same time, our brand’s voice is unique and deeply personal – warm, British and, above all, human. I can’t imagine AI ever being able to communicate our values, but I’m prepared to be proved wrong.’ Rosie van Cutsem, co-founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... proud to add TROY’s voice to the chorus. ◆ Never surrender our commitment to sustainability, quality and unique detailing, even in challenging financial climates. ◆ Laughter is essential. While building a brand is fun and exciting, it requires grit and determination on a daily basis.

◆ To cherish and celebrate the rich heritage of British clothing design. We’re

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‘OUR BRAND’S VOICE IS UNIQUE AND DEEPLY PERSONAL – WARM, BRITISH AND, ABOVE ALL, HUMAN’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Launching the first TROY London collection in 2015 with a series of small events and trunk shows.

Hitting the global press by 2016, with fans of the brand including HRH the Princess of Wales, Poppy Delevingne and Jacquetta Wheeler.

Designing capsule collections of luxury outerwear for men in 2020 and bringing out wax jackets trimmed with Liberty print fabric for children in 2022.

4 5

Adding America and Ireland to our list of where our collections are stocked in 2023.

We are growing internationally, with tours of the US and Europe planned for 2024.

TROY LONDON +44 (0)20 3457 8549 troylondon.com troylondonuk

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GBB 2024 —— T

TURNBULL & ASSER

The definitive British shirtmaker, designing and creating clothing with integrity and skill

‘T

urnbull & Asser is the definitive British shirtmaker, founded in 1885 by John Arthur Turnbull, in St James’s, London, later establishing premises on prestigious Jermyn Street, where it still greets customers today. Each garment crafted by industry artisans in our English workrooms is a signature of our sartorial elegance, made for individuals who appreciate superior quality and craftship in everything from shirts to knitwear and sleepwear. We offer ready-towear and made-to-measure services in-store and online, as well as offering bespoke masterpiece shirts at our stores in Bury Street, London and East 57th Street, New York. Designing and creating clothing with integrity and skill is at the heart of what we do. Over the years, loyal customers have trusted our staff, our product quality and the long-term value of our clothing. A Turnbull & Asser shirt is made from 34 individual pieces of fine cloth and iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons according to preference. Rigorous quality checks at all stages of manufacturing ensure the finished product is of the highest possible quality. Five core values are at the heart of our business: we are family-run and the relationship with longstanding staff members, suppliers and

customers is of utmost importance and enables unparalleled personal service; integrity, creativity and quality ensure an unrivalled level of craftsmanship and innovative design; and our fifth core value centres on sustainability, aiming to minimise our long-term environmental footprint. These personal, human values distinguish us more than technology. These values and qualities were recognised by HM King Charles III when – as HRH Prince Charles - he bestowed his first Royal Warrant in 1980. His Prince of Wales plumes grace our labels and insignia. Some 800 Royal Warrant holders range from traditional craftspeople to multinational companies. Regardless of size or specialisation, holders unite in their commitment to impeccable service and craft excellence.’ Turnbull family

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Cherish and nurture the loyalty of skilled and experienced staff, both in the

stores and in the workshop. ◆ Discerning customers must be offered clothing the way they want – whether ready-to-wear, made-to-measure or bespoke – but it must always bear the same signature of quality. ◆ A family-run business treats staff, suppliers and customers alike as valued members of that family. 286 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘EACH GARMENT IS MADE FOR INDIVIDUALS WHO APPRECIATE SUPERIOR QUALITY AND CRAFTSHIP’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

We are proud of our history as a whole. We are proud of our ability to preserve our authenticity through the past century, to keep true to what our founder, Mr Turnbull, had in mind.

Making the very first oilskin available for soldiers and nurses, signaling versatility in the use of our manufacturing and resources to face world wars.

The fiercely competitive phase from the seventies to the noughties: our managing director always kept an open mind to imagine how a British brand with so much history could look at the whole world as a market.

We have a long-standing Royal Warrant for shirtmaking that was granted in 1980 by HRH Prince of Wales – the first warrant our then-Prince ever gave. And we are obviously very proud of having been the first company awarded a Royal Warrant in 1919 as HM Queen Alexandra’s glovemaker.

The past two years were devoted to deep and thorough research, study, and a recovery of our own roots and origins, to bring our identity back to the forefront with a new creative direction.

TURNBULL & ASSER 71-72 Jermyn Street St James’s, London SW1Y 6PF +44 (0)20 7808 3000 turnbullandasser.co.uk turnbull_asser

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GBB 2024 —— T

TUSTING

Generations of quiet luxury from a family of leather specialists

‘T

he Tusting family has been in the leather business for five generations, since the 1870s, and for over three decades we’ve been making beautiful, top-quality leather bags and accessories and bringing “quiet luxury” to our customers long before the media got their hands on the term. Our range offers leather handbags, briefcases, luggage and small accessories, all with genuine function as well as beautiful form. What our customers have in common is that they appreciate our authenticity and are excited to find such a genuine, premiumquality product provided by the people who actually make it. We do everything in the same building, from product design to order fulfilment. We have something special here, creating a product from the very beginning and providing it directly to the end consumer. It’s the leather goods equivalent of a tailor or dress atelier, and we are meticulous in ensuring that our service is just as personal and rewarding for the customer. While artificial intelligence is an exciting development for the world of commerce, when it comes to making something with your hands, it is not a big help. I can see how it could potentially go into the design process at some point, although it hasn’t yet. We have a genuine fivegeneration history, but we also

Tusting is loved for its handmade bags and exceptional quality

have a wealth of stories brought to us by our customers. Some have bags owned for over thirty years, with plenty of their own tales to tell. We recently received a bag back for refurbishment that came with a wonderful, long letter containing a beautiful story of the owner’s life with this bag. It started with, “We first met three decades ago on the third floor of Fortnum and Mason...” – just like a novel – and was the most touching read. A marketing department can’t invent such extraordinary stories!’ Gillian Tusting, Head of Brand

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Be intelligent and respectful with your customers and they will be intelligent,

respectful – and loyal – with you. ◆ It’s old news, but the customer still always comes first. ◆ Word of mouth is still a critical marketing tool, it’s just more often called social media now! ◆ Sometimes you have to trust your gut – no-one knows your own customers as well as you.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

John Tusting rescues staff and machinery from a bankrupt leather goods factory in Northamptonshire in 1989 and begins diversifying from tanning leather.

First London Fashion Week runway appearance in 2011 showing the original design for a charging tote bag in partnership with designer Richard Nicoll and Vodafone.

3 4 5

The Duchess of Cambridge is first seen with her Tusting Mini Holly on a visit to Brize Norton in 2021. Our first collection with India Hicks is launched in 2021, a collaboration that is ongoing.

A 20-year relationship with Aston Martin is cemented with a new programme to create ultra-luxury luggage for the new DB12 model.

TUSTING The Tannery Warehouse 29-31 Olney Road Lavendon, Olney MK46 4EU +44 (0)1234 712266 tusting.co.uk tusting

‘WE HAVE SOMETHING SPECIAL HERE, HANDCRAFTING A PRODUCT FROM THE VERY BEGINNING AND PROVIDING IT DIRECTLY TO THE END CONSUMER’

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GBB 2024 —— ARCHITECTURE

theLIST

Nine Outstanding Eco Architecture Projects The buildings exemplifying a brighter future, chosen by ANDREW MCMULLEN

MAGGIE'S CENTRE, Leeds, Yorkshire

This cancer centre in Leeds, designed by Heatherwick Studio, goes beyond the ordinary, creating a space with a deep human impact. The building comprises three large planters housing counselling rooms, encircling a central kitchen and social areas. The focus is on natural materials, soft lighting and social interaction spaces. A rooftop garden fosters a connection to nature. heatherwick.com

3 2

FLAT HOUSE, Cambridge

Practice Architecture's work with hemp farmers in constructing Flat House underscores the importance of health-conscious building materials. Hempcrete, the primary material, regulates moisture levels, effectively resists mould and enhances indoor air quality. practicearchitecture.co.uk

KINNING PARK COMPLEX, Glasgow

This project by New Practice successfully reimagined a community hub, significantly reducing energy use by half. Innovative upgrades in heating, cooling and insulation breathed new life into the space, creating an eco-conscious and vibrant hub for arts and culture. new-practice.co.uk

A HOUSE FOR ARTISTS, Barking

With this development Apparata has crafted housing that inspires and reflects the eclectic spirit of London's artistic community. With eco-conscious practises woven into every aspect of its construction and operation, this building stands as a testament to our commitment to a greener future. Its energyefficient systems translate into a remarkable 40 percent reduction in energy use compared to traditional housing. This building challenges traditional housing norms, serving as a sanctuary for artists and a testament to artistic expression and sustainable living. It is a beautiful building that should encourage more people to question how housing is provided in this country. apparata.ch

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ROOTS IN THE SKY, London SE1

A ground-breaking project in London by Fabrix, transforming the former Blackfriars Crown Court into a sustainable, net zero workspace. It features a 1.4-acre rooftop forest with 125 trees, over 10,000 plants and public access, becoming one of Europe's largest urban roof gardens. It goes above and beyond the criteria set by the UN for urban forests, employing a passive water capture and irrigation system, all while reintroducing wildlife to the heart of the city. fabrix.london

HACKNEY SCHOOL OF FOOD, London E5

Designed by Surman Weston, this project has had a profound social impact on its community, successfully transforming an abandoned building into a dynamic, inclusive space that stimulates curiosity and creativity. At its core is a kitchen school where children learn how to grow, cook and enjoy food. The project combines education, community engagement and economic sustainability. surmanweston.com

BLACK & WHITE BUILDING, London EC2A

This pioneering timber office by Waugh Thistleton in the heart of London boasts a mere 410kg CO2e/sqm embodied carbon footprint. Designed to foster adaptability, it offers expansive, unobstructed workspaces, courtesy of a hybrid structure marrying low-carbon beech laminated veneer lumber frames with cross laminated timber slabs. waughthistleton.com

UNIVERSITY OF EAST ANGLIA ENTERPRISE CENTRE, Norwich

With Passivhaus certification and BREEAM Outstanding status, this is more than a building; it's a commitment to sustainable education. Designed by Architype, it offers spaces for workshops, offices and research activities for new graduate startups in the knowledge economy. The building serves as a demonstration of low embodied energy and carbon construction technologies, using natural and bio-renewable materials. It also features carbon monitoring systems to showcase energy efficiency and carbon offsetting. architype.co.uk

BANKSIDE YARDS, London

This development is the UK's first without the use of fossil fuels. On the capital's South Bank, the 5.5 acre mixed-use project, comprising residential, retail, office, cultural and public spaces, will revitalise the area around Blackfriars Station. It'll also bring back to life 14 railway arches that were previously closed for 150 years. banksideyards.com

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Unforgettable

EXPERIENCE THE

Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3ET | +44(0) 1765 620070 | hello@grantleyhall.co.uk | www.grantleyhall.co.uk

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THE WHITE COMPANY 298 YARDLEY LONDON 300

YIANGOU ARCHITECTS 302

ZOFFANY 304

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GBB 2024 —— V

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The global fashion house continually innovating

‘V

ivienne Westwood started as a family and has maintained this approach. We work as a team – we are open, human. Everybody that works here contributes to what we do – it’s democratic. Young people understand our way of communicating: it’s direct, it’s personal. We have a genuine sensibility to people and with what’s going on in the world. We are not just about selling products. The more technology advances, the more human touch is relevant. In the last 15 years, the world has changed more quickly than over the last 200. Humans are incredibly complex, we made industry – the wheel, horsepower – we will always be in control. We must drive technology – not let technology drive us. AI can free up valuable time to focus on more critical and creative aspects of work, however it’s important to remain informed of how and why we would introduce AI, blending it with our current processes and ideals. This synergy of technology and talent will allow us to innovate whilst supporting the reduction of our carbon impact in the future. We have started a traceability pilot and are working to analyse the full life-cycle and impact of each stage of the production of our garments – technology can help us achieve this and will hopefully support us in

3D Generated Art

our aims to implementing a carbon reduction strategy. We are also constantly looking for technological innovations and new developments in material, such as leather alternatives and textile recycling. The market and influences have changed. It was once influenced by fashion publishing groups, but now it is the young consumer who turns directly to the product without intermediaries. Today, being commercial is not like before – the market is more selective. Years ago, there were more products than customers, now it’s the opposite. If your product isn’t good, you won’t sell.’ Carlo D’Amario, CEO

3D Generated Art

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 44 Conduit Street London W1S 2YL +44 (0)20 7439 1109 viviennewestwood.com viviennewestwood

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ I studied philosophy at the University of Milan where I learnt how the

economic system worked. ◆ Elio Fiorucci was the maestro. He taught me the importance of fashion. ◆ I learnt from Giorgio Armani that the more creative you are, the more structure you need. He taught me that every shirt is a brick to building your maison. 294 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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Vivienne Westwood is continuing its founder’s great legacy of innovation and disruption

‘IT’S IMPORTANT TO REMAIN INFORMED OF HOW AND WHY WE WOULD INTRODUCE AI, BLENDING IT WITH OUR CURRENT PROCESSES AND IDEALS’

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GBB 2024 —— W

WESTLEY RICHARDS

Long-established specialist maker of unrivalled sporting goods

‘W

estley Richards has been making guns in Birmingham since 1812 so we have a long history but we have nonetheless embraced 21st-century technology, where appropriate, in many ways. In the manufacture of the guns, modern engineering techniques produce the basic action of the weapons. This enables us to produce more guns at a greater level of precision, with finer tolerances, something which is near impossible to achieve – or to replicate consistently – in a handmade gun. Then the skill, experience and artistic soul of the gunmaker – the human element – comes into play to create the beautiful finished product for which Westley Richards is famous. This marriage of modern technology and traditional gun-making skills allows us to maintain the high standards of workmanship while increasing production. We now make 25 guns a year; a few years ago it was 20 and we are planning to make 30 a year. At present the waiting list for a Westley Richards gun is five years. The latest technology – computer-aided design, virtual testing and modern smelting techniques – have helped us perfect our custom-made brassware, which is such a distinctive feature of our bags and other leather goods. Last autumn we launched the annual special edition of our travel bag collection in walnut suede which, being an unrepeated one-off, will no

As well as guns, Westley Richards also crafts fine leather goods and outdoor apparel for serious sports aficionados

doubt become a classic. Likewise, we use digital media but are aware of the importance of using it in a way which respects its audience. Our Explora blog is immensely successful and is a great way of building the brand. Similarly, Westley Richards is well known for the quality of its gun photography, skills which are now utilised making short films for the company. Our guns and leather goods are expensive and rarefied objects so it is essential that the films reflect this and the very specific world they inhabit.’ Stephen Humphries, Creative Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Harness the passion of your customers with truly desirable and authentic

products and marketing. ◆ Constantly strive for a quality standard that exceeds customers’ expectations and raises you above your competitors. ◆ Be mindful about adopting modern media and themes into your communications to attract new audiences, which may deter your existing community. 296 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WESTLEY RICHARDS GUNS ARE A MARRIAGE OF MODERN TECHNOLOGY AND TRADITIONAL GUN-MAKING SKILLS’

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

1 2

Westley Richards becomes world-famous for its hammerless shotgun in 1875, patented by Anson & Deeley.

In 2021, the company produced its most expensive gun: the Qatar Hunting Rifle, decorated with a symphony of gold inlay and gemstones, costing above £350,000.

The company’s gun-making apprenticeship scheme began in 2008. Every year since then two new young people have joined this five-year programme in elite craftsmanship.

As part of the move to new premises in 2008, the company opened its own in-house leather workshop to produce high-quality gun slips and luggage.

Reflecting its long connection with Africa, the company now sells safari-wear, launching the successful Selous Safari Jacket in 2021.

WESTLEY RICHARDS 130 Pritchett Street, Birmingham B6 4EH +44 (0)121 333 1900 westleyrichards.com westleyrichardsandco

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GBB 2024 —— W

THE WHITE COMPANY

Creating beautiful products for everyday life

‘T

he world of retail is changing fast and customers today expect more than ever. The market is also cluttered and noisy so having a clear brand identity and real purpose is essential. I wanted The White Company to be famous for white. Beautiful white products for the home and our home lives that bridged the gap between designer and high street. High quality and exceptional design, yet more affordable. Our culture, too, is all about family values; The White Company is really my first child. We truly are a lifestyle destination for the home and wardrobe and our teams are unbelievably passionate about every single product we make – I can’t emphasise enough how much love and attention to detail goes into every new range. Everything must be great quality, designed beautifully and made to really stand the test of time. White is at the heart of the brand, as is constantly trying to inspire our customers with new and exciting ways of enjoying it. Doing all we can to deliver a wonderful, personal customer experience, be it in one of our 65 stores or online, is vital. Listening to our customers’ feedback and constantly seeking to improve underlines everything. After a thrilling year, in which we opened five more stores across the UK, 2024 marks our 30th birthday. We are very much looking forward to celebrating all that we have achieved over these past three decades and can’t wait to share our future plans, of which we have many. We try really hard to live and breathe our original core values today as much as when we started: to offer stylish, beautifully designed products, principally in white, that are of the highest quality at outstanding value, and to provide a customer service and shopping experience that is second-to-none.’

This year, The White Company celebrates 30 years bringing elevated style and quality design to people’s homes

Chrissie Rucker OBE, Founder

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The importance of an amazing office culture. ◆ When starting a business,

find something you love doing that fills a gap in the market. ◆ Mentorship can be as simple as reaching out to one or two people in your industry whose opinion you really trust – you will be surprised how generous people can be with their time.

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‘I CAN’T EMPHASISE ENOUGH HOW

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

MUCH LOVE AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL GOES INTO EVERY NEW RANGE’

Being the first British retailer to be certified by The Good Cashmere Standard®, with all our cashmere clothing and accessories GCS-certified since 2020.

Publishing For The Love Of White, a beautifully photographed coffee table book full of clever interior design tips, in 2020. It was the UK’s bestselling interior design book.

Chrissie being awarded an MBE in 2010 for her service to the retail industry by HM Queen Elizabeth II and, in 2018, an OBE by the then-Prince of Wales, as well as the Veuve Clicquot Tribute Award, which recognised her achievements in retail.

Founding The White Heart Foundation in 2014, which currently partners with three exceptionally worthwhile charities: St Mungo’s, Samaritans and The Prince’s Trust, where Chrissie is Founding Gold Patron of the #ChangeAGirlsLife campaign for Women Supporting Women.

Adding five stores to The White Company’s UK portfolio in 2023, including its first store in Northern Ireland.

THE WHITE COMPANY 2 Television Centre 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FR +44 (0)20 3758 9222 thewhitecompany.com thewhitecompany

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GBB 2024 —— Y

YARDLEY LONDON

Natural products and affordable luxury define this historical brand

‘Y

ardley London has been delivering outstanding personal service for more than 250 years. Our reputation is built on forming enduring relationships with our customers; to do that, we need to meet their evolving needs, which does, of course, involve keeping up with technological developments. While we do live in a digital and digitised age – Yardley London would not survive the next 250 weeks, let alone years, if it didn’t remain relevant to a new generation that is growing up with AI – we are nonetheless in an industry that makes products that appeal to that intangible thing, human taste. I cannot imagine a machine will ever be able to create a delicately nuanced fragrance with mass appeal and longevity, no matter how carefully you brief it. Creating a new scent is a complex process, incorporating trends, consumer demands, our brand essence, and the expertise, talent and inspiration of the perfumier. Each perfume launch is the work of human skill, interpretation, appreciation, and aspiration. It’s a beautiful expression of alchemy. Even though our raison d’être is providing affordable luxury, spending on fragrance is still an indulgence – a treat – and being served by a person is part of that experience. We have excellent technology – our online perfume-finder is good – but it’s no match for the personal touches an in-store advisor can provide. Using the online guide is a monologue rather than a dialogue. We know people visit Boots – one of our biggest UK stockists – as much for the interaction and advice

Yardley works with the best perfumers in the industry to capture and bottle the delicate scents of flowers

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Never rest on your laurels. Yardley London is an historic brand, but it still

innovates and moves with the times. ◆ Share your product differentiators and make sure you are transparent, honest and clear when talking to customers about them. ◆ Evolve, but don’t lose sight of what your brand stands for and represents. Build on that for the future.

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‘I CANNOT IMAGINE A MACHINE WILL EVER BE ABLE TO CREATE A DELICATELY NUANCED FRAGRANCE WITH MASS APPEAL AND LONGEVITY’ as for the products. The day might come when they are met by a robot, but I hope not. We train their staff to match scents to personalities, to events, to tastes, while also encapsulating the very nature of the Yardley brand – quality, trust, natural ingredients and sustainability. No machine can do that.’ Karen Cullen, General Manager/ Business Head at Wipro Consumer Care (Yardley London)

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Our 2018 campaign was fronted by TigerLily Taylor – the daughter of Queen’s Roger Taylor – and photographed by Rankin. It showed Yardley as both traditionalist and forward thinking.

In 2020, we celebrated our 250th anniversary by launching Contemporary Florals, a range of combination fragrances, such as Gardenia and Cassis, appealing to younger customers.

Since 2021, Yardley London has supported the cancer charity, Look Good Feel Better, donating a contribution from net sales from its gift collection, botanical handwashes and selected fragrances to the charity.

Our commitment to supporting British manufacturing and to providing high-quality, crueltyfree fragrances at affordable prices. Many of our lines use up to 97 percent natural ingredients and are vegan.

Receiving feedback from customers. Many of them grew up with Yardley, buying products for their mums and grandmothers. Now their own children and grandchildren are buying our fragrances for them.

YARDLEY OF LONDON LTD 102a High St, Eton, Berkshire SL4 6AF +44 (0)1753 983837 yardleylondon.co.uk yardleylondonuk

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GBB 2024 —— Y

YIANGOU ARCHITECTS

Designing architecture of distinction and quality for over 40 years

‘A

ward-winners with a reputation for highquality, considered and imaginative architecture, Yiangou Architects have designed buildings of distinction for over 40 years. We’re best known for our country houses for private clients, whether new dwellings or alterations and extensions to historic buildings. We started in the Cotswolds, setting out to maintain the vernacular architectural tradition that has made the area so sought-

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

after. With growth has come expansion beyond the Cotswolds, and we now work nationwide, always keeping our focus on design and our quality high. We’re not associated with any one style – no churning out of replicas – but we create individual designs specific to site and client. Bespoke architectural design is a human endeavour. The first broad brushstrokes flow better from head to hand, from soft pencil to paper, where early ideas are also more understandable for clients. Then you bring in detail, the pencil gets sharper, and ideas are honed – the human touch of hand-drawing. Computer Aided Design (CAD) comes into its own once a design and planning budget are set, allowing speed and efficiency in detail and accuracy. CAD is a good tool but must never take away from human talent or substitute for creating and communicating original ideas by hand. For the same reasons, we’re not planning to use AI. Every building tells a story. With older buildings, where every generation has had its say, it’s our chance to add a 21st century chapter to that long history. When designing from scratch, whether in contemporary or traditional classical style, there’s a story there too, in response to the site, client and their lifestyle: why rooms position a certain way; where the sun rises and sets; the topography and views; how clients live their days. Our buildings fit because they are made specifically for place, people and lifestyle.’

Over 42 years, since 1981, we’ve built a strong brand synonymous with a legacy of high-quality homes and levels of service.

Our first large, new country house in the Classical style, begun in 2013: a benchmark for the scale and quality we can achieve, and which set us on our current path.

Winning both RIBA and Georgian Group awards in the same year (2014), recognition that we create high-quality designs regardless of style.

An in-depth Sky Arts TV profile broadcast in 2022 showcasing our full and aspirational body of work, paying particular attention to our continued commitment to the skill of architectural hand-drawing.

In 2023, the team had an almost 50/50 balance of men/women in positions of seniority and leadership, moving on from a more maledominated workplace.

Whether traditional or modern, Yiangou’s designs are all bespoke

YIANGOU ARCHITECTS Dyer House, Dyer Street, Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 2PP +44 (0)1285 888150 yiangou.com yiangouarchitects

Andrew Inchley, Director

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ When building a brand there must be real substance. Slick graphics and

production values are meaningless without a quality product. ◆ In a busy market, it’s vital to highlight what sets you apart. ◆ Always move forward, update and refresh. Don’t sit back, tread water or rely on past glories. Always showcase something new.

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GBB 2024 —— Z

ZOFFANY

Preservation of design: an innovative approach to past and present

‘T

he Zof f any brand emerged as a result of the painstakingly passionate restoration project of the historic Tudor-Jacobean Temple Newsam, the magnificent stately house in Leeds, reinstating the wallpapers to their original glory. This was the early 1980s; these designs were collated into a collection, and so the brand was born. Restoration and provenance continue to be at the heart of Zoffany, together with preservation of design and craftship. Luxury and integrity run throughout with an appreciation of the past – in the present. We combine modern technology with traditional manufacturing techniques. We see AI as being more of an enabler in the future, freeing up the human aspects of our creativity, allowing us to focus on our unique craftship. We saw this with digital printing and so many other, at the time, groundbreaking technologies that form part of our daily life today. Take our wallpaper factory in Loughborough, where we experiment using a variety of methods including hand-block, surface and digital print processes, combining them in ways that could not have been achieved before, heightening creativity. Our starting point is a document from which the design goes through many hands. We see digital and AI as tools rather than a solution. Digital has opened us up to

how and who we can work with. A longstanding collaborator with Zoffany is fine artist and muralist Melissa White. She works in a very authentic, traditional way and the use of digital technology allows us to capture the true essence of her artistic hand without restriction – freedom of creativity is very important at Zoffany. We’re very fortunate with our archive. We’re not reinventing the wheel but simply revealing and discovering new emerging talents, bringing beautiful designs to light and from new perspectives.’ Peter Gomez, Lead Designer

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The constant cycle of historic designs and how each new generation

rediscovers and interprets classical designs. ◆ The importance of delving deep into traditional British crafts, seeing them nurtured through institutions like the Royal School of Needlework and supporting and learning from each other. ◆ The relevance and appreciation of heritage British brands internationally. 304 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Zoffany collaboration with Eye of the Collector in 2023. Positioning the brand in this environment allowed it to be appreciated in its true art form.

2 3 4

Zoffany’s relationship with bespoke artist Melissa White, which spans more than a decade.

Working with artisan embroiderer Livia Papiernik in 2023 as part of our commitment to supporting emerging talent. The Arcadian Thames Collection in 2023, which revisits London in an unexpected way, capturing a snapshot of life.

The launch of Suffolk Damasks & Stripes Collection in 2024 – showcasing the heritage of British renowned silk weavers.

ZOFFANY Sanderson Design Group Showroom Design Centre Chelsea Harbour Lots Road, London SW10 0XE + 44 (0)20 3903 3700 zoffany.sandersondesigngroup.com zoffanyfw

‘LUXURY AND INTEGRITY RUN THROUGHOUT WITH Zoffany draws many of its designs from its extensive archive, reimagining them for a new audience

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AN APPRECIATION OF THE PAST – IN THE NOW’

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charity

Founded by Arizona Muse

@dirt.charity

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0 11 GBB 2024

1508 LONDON 308

886 BY THE ROYAL MINT 310

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1508 LONDON The global design company with local expertise

‘W

ith eight offices s p annin g f o ur continents, 1508 London creates exceptional spaces worldwide for private clients, residential developments and leading hospitality brands. Our global 1508 London team has done remarkable work in 2023. In America, projects included the Cipriani Residences in Miami, a 45,000 sq/ ft home in Washington DC and a 30,000 sq/ft home in Malibu and an entire floor of Philadelphia’s Four Seasons in the iconic Foster building. In Asia, building on our Singapore office’s success, we launched a studio in Bangkok, where we’re working on a hotel in Jakarta, a multi-residential scheme in Shenzen and three hotels in Nepal’s enchanting landscape. Our big London moment was the grand opening of Britain’s first Raffles hotel at The OWO, where we were responsible for the interior design of the 85 Residences. We also completed a remarkable 21,000 sq/ ft Grade II-listed house in Portland Place, which marries rich history with contemporary luxury and has been a film set for The King’s Speech, Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse. In Hamburg, we transformed a heritage building into the Conrad Hotel. We launched in Cannes, working on a very exciting project

LEFT: Athens Penthouse Project, Greece ALL OTHER IMAGES: Portland Place, London. The kitchen features the fireplace seen in The Kings Speech

in St Tropez designing an on-site boutique hotel and restaurant. In Dubai, we’re working on projects like the Baccarat Hotel & Residences, the Armani Hotel & Residences Riyadh and we completed the refurbishment of Burj Khalifa’s At.mosphere Restaurant. In 2024 we’re launching an Australian office, with a big residential development in Sydney, and completing The Cape Grace, a beautiful old colonial-style Cape Town hotel. Our structure allows creativity to flourish and design to transcend borders. Our designers immerse themselves in the local vernacular, ensuring each project celebrates its unique cultural context. AI will be interesting to test ideas and material, but what people most enjoy is the process of design, the beauty of the journey. You’ll always value a hand-tailored suit over an off-the-peg one.’ Hamish Brown, Stuart Horwood and Laura Lockwood, partners

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ Structure and discipline are a must – to deliver at the highest level, our

customers expect the best, so we need to perform at the top, there is no margin for error. ◆ Our global presence has empowered us to create designs that transcend borders, drawing on a wealth of international expertise.

PHOTOS: TARAN WILKHU

◆ The project is the celebrity, not us, so we leave our ego at the door.

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FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Winning a prestigious private residential project in Palace Green in 2012, solidifying our position as a leading luxury interior design studio.

Redesigning the Lanesborough Club & Spa and winning Best Spa in Europe in 2015 marked our transition into the hospitality sector, and led to numerous other hospitality projects like the refurbishment of the Carlton Tower Jumeirah.

Being appointed as the interior designer for all four phases of Chelsea Barracks in 2017, propelling us onto the global stage and leading to notable projects like One Grosvenor Square and The OWO Branded Residences.

The launch and success of our Dubai studio in 2019 paved the way for further international expansion, with six additional locations globally.

Being appointed on prestigious projects including the Mandarin Oriental Beverly Hills, Cipriani Miami Residences, and Four Seasons Philadelphia in 2022 were significant milestones for our US expansion.

PHOTOS: TARAN WILKHU

1508 LONDON 7 Howick Place, London SW1P 1BB +44 (0)20 7802 3800 1508london.com 1508london

‘WHAT PEOPLE MOST ENJOY IS THE PROCESS OF DESIGN – THE BEAUTY OF THE JOURNEY’

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GBB 2024 —— 0

886 BY THE ROYAL MINT

Award-winning sustainable jewellery made from recovered precious metals

‘O

ur second collection really saw our design language evolving and taking shape. Our first and core collection was intentionally subdued to reflect the sustainable and social reasons for 886 coming into existence, whereas the latest Tutamen collection feels more exuberant and exploratory. The Royal Mint moved to south Wales in the 1970s to create jobs when the mining industry collapsed and became one of the biggest, if not the biggest, employer there. With the use of coins decreasing, we’re retraining people to make jewellery, across a variety of skills, from polishing to soldering. Our sustainable jewellery is made from waste gold and silver and we’ve built a massive refinery the size of multiple football pitches that breaks down electronic waste and sorts it. Alongside gold, we end up with numerous metals like tin and copper and there’s even a gas that we can use as clean fuel. Our jewellery is original because we use our coin manufacturing machinery to ‘strike’ or squeeze metal into shape, giving our jewellery a desirable different weight and energy – most jewellers couldn’t consider that because of the expense. We have about 70 different styles in nine and 18 carat gold, which I think AI could really help

The Royal Mint’s Tutamen collection is inspired by its centuries of coin-making heritage, and made from recycled metals

WHAT I’VE LEARNT... ◆ The importance of patience. Making sustainable choices with 886 has

required perseverance. ◆ My core design abilities can be translated through many different lenses, like the coin production in my recent Tutamen collection. ◆ That you can leverage the heritage of a 1,000-year-old brand through technology, telling stories to a new audience in an engaging way. 310 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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‘WITH THE USE OF COINS DECREASING, WE’RE RETRAINING PEOPLE TO MAKE JEWELLERY, ACROSS A VARIETY OF SKILLS, FROM POLISHING TO SOLDERING’ me with, because the way I design is a bit like a manual version of AI – I always create a mood board full of visual, structural, historical and literary references and then blend all those disparate elements into a visual map. Before the 17th century coins were like thin pancakes so people started trimming gold from their edges – a crime of treason which and carried the death penalty. Part of the Tutamen collection was inspired by these gnarly curls, “toenail hoards” as they were known, and I designed a showpiece necklace comprising beautiful spirals. Dominic Jones, Creative Director

FIVE PROUDEST MOMENTS

Launching 886 in 2022 with gold reclaimed from electronic waste, helping to preserve our natural resources and significantly reduce our jewellery’s carbon footprint.

2 3 4 5

Being the first in our industry to use silver, reclaimed from NHS and other hospitals’ discarded X-ray films.

Being chosen by Elton John in our launch year to create bespoke jewellery to mark his farewell Yellow Brick Road Tour. Our Poem Cuff made on-site in Wales by reskilled craftsmen of The Royal Mint, becoming our best-selling design.

Being awarded Sustainable Jewellery Brand of the Year at the inaugural Country & Town House Sustainability Awards.

886 BY THE ROYAL MINT House 26 Burlington Arcade 51 Piccadilly, London W1J 0PR +44 (0)20 7408 0714 886.royalmint.com 886royalmint

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GBB 2024

Index A Affordable Art Fair Alan Scott Alexandra Llewellyn Annoushka Ascot Racecourse Atelier NM

F 20 22 24 26 28 30

38 40 42 44 48 50

C Cadogan Cambridge Audio Christy Christys’ Clive Christian Cookson Adventures Crockett & Jones Cunard CW London

58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74

D Davidson London Daylesford Organic Deirdre Dyson Difference Coffee Dr Haus Dermatology Dr Sebagh

78 80 82 84 86 88

E East London Parasol Company Edmiston Edward Green E.J. Churchill Elegant Resorts Equi London Ettinger

L 110 112 116 118

B Bamford Barbour Battersea Power Station Berry Bros & Rudd Bert Frank Boadicea the Victorious

Fairfax & Favor Farrar & Tanner Favourbrook Fenwick

The Glenturret Distillery GP & J Baker GroundTruth

122 124 126

H Harrods Estates Heirlooms Helen Green Design Studio Highclere Thoroughbred Racing Holland Cooper Holland & Holland The House of Bruar

128 130 132 134 136 138 146

148

J J. Adams & Co James Purdey & Sons John Bell & Croyden Joseph Cheaney & Sons Juliette Byrne Jush London

152 154 156 158 160 162

Katharine Pooley

M Martin Kemp Design Molton Brown Mulberry

182 186 188

N Naim Audio Neal’s Yard Remedies Neatsmith Neill Strain Floral Couture New & Lingwood Nina Campbell

196 198 200 202 204 208

Octagon Developments Oskia The OWO

210 212 214

P Penhaligon’s POB Hotels Pooley Sword Pragnell Pulbrook & Gould

166

Rachel Vosper Randle Siddeley Rathbones Really Wild Clothing Red Savannah Rigby & Rigby Roberts Radio Royal Shakespeare Co

Samuel Heath Sanderson The Shard The Sloane Club Sofas & Stuff Sophie Breitmeyer Studio PDP Sunspel

218 220 222 224 226

252 254 256 313 262 264 266 268

T Taylor Howes Designs 272 Theatre Royal Drury Lane 274 Theo Fennell 276 Thomas Lyte 278 TROY London 284 Turnbull & Asser 286 Tusting 288

V Vivienne Westwood

294

W Westley Richards The White Company

296 298

Y Yardley London Yiangou Architects

300 302

K 96 98 100 102 104 106 108

S 170 172 174 176 178 180

I Iconic Luxury Hotels

Lalage Beaumont Lawson Robb Life Kitchens LINLEY Lock & Co. Louise Bradley

Zoffany 230 232 234 236 238 240 246 248

304

1-10 1508 London 886 By The Royal Mint

308 310

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A home from home in the heart of Chelsea Sloane Place is a boutique hotel located in the heart of Chelsea’s cultural hub, a short walk from the Saatchi Gallery and Royal Court Theatre on Sloane Square and the upscale shopping district of Knightsbridge. Our stylishly appointed rooms and suites offer modern amenities and plush bedding for a comfortable stay. Enjoy delicious British-Asian dishes at Sloane Place Restaurant or mouth-watering cocktails in The Hideaway bar.

Book your stay today and experience luxury and convenience in the heart of London...

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WEALTH MANAGEMENT RATHBONES.COM/GBBA

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