Great British Brands 2023

2023

Brave New

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Emanating from the world of art, The Gardens tells the enduring story of nature’s panoramas rendered through the artist’s brush. Hand-drawn and hand-painted over countless hours, the gardens’ ever-changing light, colour palette, and organic movement are delicately captured with every stroke.

The Gardens: Vol. I is a series of epic design stories each containing its own extraordinary chapters.

The romance of the sweeping English landscape garden is met with the fanciful whimsy of flora and foliage of a sun-drenched land, with the narrative complete in the understated natural beauty of a woodland throughout the seasons. Grand in both scale and detail, each comprising a number of panels, the landscapes’ form allows the artworks’ focus to be entirely the tastemaker’s choice.

Ushering in a new chapter for the Design House, The Gardens: Vol. I establishes Cole & Son walls as the ultimate in haute couture, with The Gardens: Vol. II offering an exquisite selection of fabric complements in rich jacquards, soft satin and lustred velvet, enhancing the home with an elegance that is uniquely yours.

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THE NEW PRINCESS Y85 E X P E R I E N C E T H E E X C E P T I O N A L®

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AUDLEY HOUSE, LONDON W1K 2ED | + 44 (0) 20 7499 1801 | PURDEY.COM

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GBB 2023

Contents REGULARS

8 EDITOR’S LETTER 10 CONTRIBUTORS 344 INDEX

16 36 56 96

150

212

266 314

48 82 100 126 168 178 196 216 236 284 328 340 23

FEATURES

THE MAKING OF A KING Lucy Cleland talks to Leo Caillard about creating the GBB cover image ARE WE STILL FRIENDS? What’s up with ‘the special relationship’? asks Josh Glancy BRITAIN’S GOT TALENT Soft power emanates from our incredible creative industries, argues Peter Bazalgette IF WOMEN BUILT THE WORLD If women aren’t helping build the metaverse, we risk creating another patriarchy, says Tahmima Anam HOMESPUN HERITAGE Charlotte Metcalf asks whether we’re in danger of destroying our craft heritage by not training up the next generation TURNING THE PAGE ON DIVERSITY Having diversity in your workplace is non-negotiable, says Trevor Phillips CITIZENS OF THE WORLD Jon Alexander lays out his compelling case for a new citizen story MAGICAL MEGALOPOLIS A new urban utopia could be ours one day, says Ellen Miles

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Asprey, Barbour, Cole & Son, Alexander McQueen

THE LIST

Ten Iconic British Brands Thirteen Future Stars of Stage & Screen Eight Pieces of Tech you Need for 2023 Ten British Wines to Quaff Eight Authors to Dive into in 2023 Eight Fashion Brands Manufacturing in the UK Ten Iconic Pieces of British Design Six of the Most Accessible Cultural Institutions Ten of 2023’s Most Exciting UK Hotel Openings Eight British Travel Companies with a Conscience Eight Eco Activists to Get Behind Seven Ideas to Help Save the Planet

ON THE COVER French artist Leo Caillard created the digital image of King Charles III. If you hold your phone over the QR code on the cover, you’ll be able to see a virtual reality version of the image.

DIRECTORY

Celebrating some of our most famous, original, unique and quirky British brands, from A to Z Editor Charlotte Metcalf Editorial Director Lucy Cleland Managing Editor Amy Wakeham Copy Editors Emma Love, Harriet Compston, Kate Patrick, Maggie O’Sullivan, Matt Forbes-Dale, Richard Hopton and Steve Cooper Fashion Director Nicole Smallwood Sub Editors Katie Bamber, Anoop Bhuller, Tessa Dunthorne and Ruby Featherstone Creative Direction & Production Parm Bhamra Production Designer Mia Biagioni Online Content Director Rebecca Cox Junior Online Editor Ellie Smith Online Writers Charlie Colville and Olivia Emily Social Media Executive Zoey Phoon Property & Marketing Associate Director Gemma Cowley Associate Publisher Ellie Rix Head of Fashion Emma Marsh Account Directors Pandora Lewis and Serena Knight Account Manager Sabrina Raven Digital Sales Director Adam Dean Brand Partnership Manager Chris Holt Sales Support & Office Manager Xa Rodgers Finance Controller Lauren Hartley Finance Administrator Ria Harrison Finance Director Jill Newey Chief Commerical Officer Tia Graham Chief Operating Officer James Thrower Managing Director Jeremy Isaac

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Copyright © 2023 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

Country & Town House, Studio 2, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL, +44 (0)20 7384 9011

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Editor’s LETTER

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Vivienne Westwood; Tusting; Red Savannah

PHOTOS: KING CHARLES BY DOVILE BABRAVICIUTE

I

f ever a new year felt like a ‘Brave New World’ it’s the start of 2023. It’s why we changed our format to speak to our brand leaders face-to-face about the formidable challenges they’ve surmounted during 2022 and will continue to face into this year. Despite the havoc those challenges caused to everything from supply chains and pricing to staffing and materials, the miracle is that most brands rallied, even triumphed.

They have proved adaptable and resilient, and it’s been fascinating to hear from brand leaders in their own words about how they’ve done this and entered into a closer relationship with the people who buy or like their products or services.

The use of that last phrase rather than ‘consumer’ is deliberate and reflects our belief that language changes how we think and act. We have removed the ‘C’ word from all Country & Town House titles, inspired by the brilliance of Jon Alexander, author of Citizens and co-founder of The New Citizenship Project.

His response to our turbulent times is to insist that ‘the key to fixing everything is all of us’ (p266). As citizens we bear a collective responsibility for our fragile democracy and our planet, and so need to draw a line quickly under our pattern of irresponsible consumption.

The Queen’s death made us all aware of how much she’d rallied us as citizens, embodying as she did stability and unity.

Explaining why King Charles III graces our cover on page 16, Lucy Cleland says that if anyone symbolises our ‘Brave New World’ it is he, having come to the throne at a ‘time of such serious tipping points over climate change, over social division, over democracy even – as well as being our first monarch of the digital age – that we can only wonder how he will navigate his way along such a precarious path’.

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Despite none of us being able to predict the future, there remains cause for optimism. Witness Ellen Miles’s uplifting essay on how our cities could be reconfigured (p314). As a young author and founder of Nature is a Human Right, the campaign to recognise exposure to green space as a universal need, Ellen charts the work that is going on to ensure that the city of 2050 is a green utopia in which citizens have banded together to build multi-purpose living and work spaces.

While Ellen looks at the future of bricksand-mortar, anthropologist and awardwinning novelist, Tahmima Anam, explores the virtual world of the metaverse (p96).

During 2022, many of our brands have been wondering how best to negotiate this largely uncharted territory – and there is no clear answer as of yet. However it is built, Tahmima argues, women need to be front and centre of its creation to ensure the metaverse is a ‘safe, inclusive and fair’ place for all.

Acclaimed broadcaster, writer and documentary maker, Trevor Phillips, discusses how nothing erodes a brand’s value faster than its failure to move with a new social reality (p212). ‘We are less tolerant of brands that don’t “get it”,’ he says, advising companies to keep up with the demands of an increasingly diverse population.

Despite all this, the bruising challenges of 2022 have only strengthened brands’ resolution to remain positive.

Peter Bazalgette, Chair of the RCA’s Governing Body and knighted for services to broadcasting in 2012 after a lifetime in television, writes about how much Britain still has to offer in terms of our creative industries (p56). Our films, musicals, TV shows, popular music, video games, advertising, marketing, architecture, design, fashion and software comprise £50 billion of exports annually – an astonishing success story, easily

PHOTOS: KING CHARLES BY DOVILE BABRAVICIUTE

We are confident that our GREAT BRITISH BRANDS can show the world an increasingly ENVIRONMENTALLY aware, transparent and robust LUXURY industry of which to be proud

FROM ABOVE: Bremont, Really Wild, Rolls-Royce

forgotten in an atmosphere of prevailing gloom.

Special Correspondent for The Sunday Times, Josh Glancy, reports on the still buoyant, if occasionally wobbly, ‘special relationship’ with the US, as many Americans continue to marvel at our heritage and culture (p36).

Opining that many American men are born with a ‘style lobotomy’, Josh posits that it’s no wonder they turn to Savile Row, that unassailable last word in sartorial elegance, and to our classic Northamptonshire-manufactured shoes – as well as enjoying our whisky.

Back on British soil, we could be on the brink of a manufacturing renaissance. A ‘Made in Britain’ label still has firepower globally and I was cheered to discover how committed our brands are to helping support our factories and industry (p150). From Bremont investing in machinery to make watch movements at scale in Britain for the first time, to young brands like Holland Cooper and TROY London using British factories, the movement to protect our woefully endangered crafts and skills is growing.

We will vigorously support our brands as they lead Britain into 2023’s ‘Brave New World’ by energising British manufacturing and involving citizens to help them protect our planet. We are confident we can show the world an increasingly environmentally aware, transparent, robust and fine luxury industry of which to be immensely proud.

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CONTRIBUTORS Tahmima Anam Bangladeshi-born Tahmima’s most recent novel is The Startup Wife. She is the recipient of an O. Henry Award and has been named one of Granta’s best young British novelists. She was a contributing opinion writer for the New York Times and was recently elected as a fellow of the Royal Society of Literature.

Favourite British brand? 'Sweaty Betty because its leggings make my bum look great. I am also obsessed with Ramona’s jalapeño hummus. I’ve told so many people about it that it went out of stock for a few weeks so now it’s my little secret.'

Sir Peter Bazalgette Once quoted as 'the most influential man in British television'

by The Independent, as a result of his impact on the development of reality television and lifestyle TV programmes, Sir Peter is the former Chair of the broadcaster ITV and of Arts Council England. He currently chairs The Royal College of Art, the Baillie Gifford Prize for Non-Fiction and Co-Chairs the UK’s Creative Industries Council. His books include Billion Dollar Game and The Empathy Instinct.

Favourite British brand? 'Jaffa Cakes: technically clever, redolent of childhood and with an irresistible hint of marmalade.'

Sir Trevor Phillips An acclaimed writer, documentary-maker and broadcaster, Sir Trevor led the council that oversees the John Lewis Partnership, served as Chair of the Equality and Human Rights Commission, and now leads a data analytics company, discovering what data reveals about attitudes, behaviours and how to address some of the biggest questions of the day.

Favourite British brand? 'John Lewis.

A wondrous contradiction. Aspirational yet egalitarian. Middle class yet diverse.

Dickensian sentimentality married with hard-as-nails mercantilism.'

Ellen Miles

Josh Glancy As special correspondent for The Sunday Times, Josh covers everything from politics to football to fashion for the newspaper, as well as writing columns and magazine features. He recently returned from five years as the paper's Washington bureau chief and before that was its New York correspondent. He is married to an American and specialises in transatlantic diplomacy.

Favourite British brand? 'Reiss, which makes lovely, just-about-affordable clothes without all the silly frills and zips that bedevil so much high street clothing. Shout out to Sunpat peanut butter though, too.'

Jon Alexander

Ellen is an environmental justice activist, guerrilla gardener and founder of Nature is a Human Right, the campaign to recognise contact with the natural world as a universal need. She sets out what we need to do to transform our cities into greener, more collaborative, and affordable environments for the next generation.

Favourite British brand? 'I grew up with a Roberts Radio in the house, and now listen to my own every day. I love feeling connected to people around the nation without a screen involved, and it feels like connecting to history too. Long live radio.'

Jon began his career in advertising before making a dramatic change. Driven by a deep need to understand the impact on society of 3,000 commercial messages a day, he completed three Masters degrees, exploring consumerism and its alternatives from every angle. In 2014, he co-founded the New Citizenship Project and authored Citizens: Why the Key to Fixing Everything is All of Us. Favourite British brand? 'Toast Ale, the brewery that uses surplus bread from commercial food production instead of barley to make amazing beers.'

GR E AT BR I T I SH BR A N DS T O YOU R I N BOX Celebrating our homegrown talent each month with carefully curated guides to the best of British, sign up to the monthly Great British Brands newsletter now. countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter 10 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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Hot sun.

Warm water.

Cool yacht.

Yachting offers unrivalled freedom. Cruise the Caribbean’s most exclusive hot spots, or explore the untouched archipelagos of the Indian Ocean. Edmiston’s global team of specialists have the local knowledge to make it happen.

RESILIENCE, 65m, ISA, 12 guests. For charter through Edmiston.

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GBB 2023

CONTRIBUTORS Clover Hogan Clover is a 23-yearold climate activist and the founding Executive Director of Force of Nature – a youth non-profit mobilising mindsets for climate action. She has consulted for Fortune 50 companies, counselled heads of state, and helped students in over 50 countries turn climate anxiety into action. Her TED talk, What to do when climate change feels unstoppable, has been viewed over 1.9 million times Favourite British brand? 'x+why, a flexible workspace provider and HQ to Force of Nature. I love that it convenes impact-driven organisations under the same roof.'

Juliet Kinsman Journalist, author and sustainability expert Juliet has spent more than two decades celebrating the world’s most special places in which to spend time. In recent years it’s been her mission to share stories of sustainability to inspire impact. Her new podcast series Funny Old World is perfect for the eco-curious.

Favourite British brand? 'I love Pala Eyewear, a Brighton-based B Corp brand that sells stylish sunglasses that help it provide long-term eye care solutions in Africa.

I also really love Wild Beauty by Rhug Estate in Wales for modelling truly organic highest-quality skincare.'

Kamo Frank Kamo Frank is a South African illustrator whose work consists of bold, retro colours and depicts strong and confident characters to create a vibrant combination of reality and imagination.

She's inspired by the need to emphasise the representation of women of colour in art, as she believes their stories are worth sharing and are worth being celebrated.

Favourite British brand? 'I absolutely love Jo Malone! Its diffusers, candles and oh my goodness, its fragrances. My favourite has to be the Wood Sage & Sea Salt scent, I’m obsessed.'

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James Bidwell James is Chair of Springwise and believes strongly in the power of innovation and sustainability to redefine the role of business in society as a force for good. He outlines his philosophy in his book, Disrupt! 100 Lessons in Business Innovation. He was listed in the Financial Times' Creative Business Top 50.

Favourite British brand? 'Finisterre.

A B Corp with a commitment to preserving the environment, Finisterre tells a consistent story across all channels. Buy less but better is the underlying mantra – we need this leadership more than ever.'

Tom Gilbey

Rosie Hunter

Tom’s family was the first English family to buy a château in Bordeaux in 1875. Gilbeys then went on to be the most prominent wine and spirits merchant in the UK selling one in every three bottles of wine sold in the UK at one stage. More recently, Tom launched Tom Gilbey Ltd, an events and tastings company.

Favourite British brand? 'Nyetimber. Some well-regarded contenders really struggle when competing against the best sparklers in the world. Nyetimber doesn’t. It’s always in the top three in any blind tasting of NV sparklers, wherever the competition’s from.'

Rosie is an editorial illustrator based in Bristol. She enjoys making thought-provoking illustrations through the exploration of visual problem solving, idea generation and visual metaphors.

Her work explores a wide variety of topics, often with socially conscious themes such as mental health.

Favourite British brand? 'The White Company. I love the timelessness of their products and admire their dedication to quality and not fast fashion, as well as their ethos of celebrating the "little things" and making simple, everyday items feel special.'

What to do with Great British Brands when you’ve finished reading it

Ideally, we’d love you to pass it on to a friend or a community place which might enjoy it (doctor or dentist surgery, community centre etc), but you can also rest assured that your issue can be recycled.

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The magazine (including cover) can be disposed of in your paper waste recycling bin.

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The outer plastic wrapping is made entirely from 100 per cent compostable material sourced from potato starch. It can be disposed of in a compost heap, your garden waste bin or your food waste bin (why not use it as a liner?). Please do not put it in your recycling.

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Some furniture is made for the here and now.

Some is built to stand the test of time.

At Neptune, we believe that the best can do both.

Good design never grows old.

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GBB 2023 —— ON THE COVER

KING THE MAKING OF A

As we enter the new Carolean age, King Charles III was the only person who could front this year’s Great British Brands ‘Brave New World’ edition.

Lucy Cleland talks to artist Léo Caillard about his approach to the subject and why he was the perfect artist to do it (despite being French) ARTISTIC DIRECTION NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHY DOVILE BABRAVICIUTE

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The image of King Charles III was created digitally – the composition of a classical marble bust with the neon lighting and the tradition of a halo effect combines to speak to both referencing historic tradition yet looking forward into the future

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GBB 2023 —— ON THE COVER

n 8 September last year, our nation bid farewell to the second Elizabethan age, when Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II died at the age of 96.

To say that it marked the end of an era is an understatement par excellence.

It struck us therefore as we were planning the cover for this edition of Great British Brands that there could only be one person to front it, especially given our theme of ‘Brave New World’. King Charles III has come to the throne at a time of such serious tipping points over climate change, social division, and democracy even – as well as being our first monarch of the digital age – that we can only wonder how he will navigate his way along such a precarious path. Will his mother’s stoicism and devotion to duty be enough? Will he attempt to reinvent the royal brand and remain relevant (the currency we seem to currently trade on)? With his son Harry lobbing hand grenades from across the pond and profiting from family trauma, our King would seem to have the weight of the world on his shoulders. And yet his role is as iconic as they come.

Short of scoring an interview and shoot with the King himself, we wanted to find a way to interpret this in an image, so we set to work to find the perfect artist to capture him creatively – someone who was contending with the past, the future, and our digital age. First stop was a call with Marine Tanguy, who founded the art sector’s leading talent agency MTArt, which represents an amazingly eclectic roster of artists and some of the finest of our generation.

Our eyes were immediately drawn to one of her artists, Leo Caillard, whose work is defined by the intersection between the classical and the modern, and his obsession with time. He is also a digital artist as well as a marble sculptor.

Bingo. And, combined with Leo’s passion for Great Britain, the universality of the GBB theme and his veneration for the subject, we knew he was the right match for the commission at hand. After all, he says, ‘Really, we are all the same in a way, it is just our language that changes. We have the same goals as artists, and we are just doing meaningful things that can help others to live with themselves happily.’

‘I WANTED TO REPRESENT A CONTEMPORARY STATUE OF KING CHARLES. MADE OF MARBLE BUT SHINY WITH MODERNITY. A FUTURE-ORIENTED KING’ 18 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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Artist Leo Caillard photographed at the Strouk Gallery in Paris, where works such as The Neon Discobolus are on display

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GBB 2023 —— ON THE COVER

Leo was born in 1985 and always knew that being an artist was not his decision, but a recognition that ‘it was something that went beyond all my other desires. It was not my choice, it was my duty.’ (Just like our King.)

From his visits to museums as a child, he became obsessed with the classical sculptures that filled them and started to question why they seemed so relevant to him. ‘Because they are us,’ he explains. ‘We come from this classical Western legacy and it infiltrates our society and way of thinking still. We are concerned with the ego [like them] and the modern-day selfie is really the direct interpretation of the classical statue.’

His series ‘Hipster in Stone’ sees classical statues adorned with sunglasses, shaggy beards and other accessories that make them relatable to us now. The cold marble figures from the Louvre are no longer from an arcane age of classical reverence but they are us – our reflection. It’s a whole new way of looking at the past – and the future. Just like our King, who has the same dilemma – neither wanting to appear as though he’s from an untouchable bygone age but needing to retain reverence, too, and to be emblematic of a lineage that has helped define who we are as a country.

Leo’s ‘Wave Stone’ series takes the traditional marble bust and distorts it in order to question our relationship with reality and virtuality. ‘We live in a society of vibration, of screens, and internet data,’ he says. ‘It’s all about waves. And I wanted to try to make the statue disappear, like when your screen is glitching because you aren’t receiving the message well.’ It is not just computer waves that he’s referencing either, but indeed a deeper philosophy of spiritual vibration. ‘In our society owning things matters. We believe in real things giving us security and material comfort. But these objects don’t fill our minds, or feed who we are as people. Only vibration and the link you can get with others will bring you happiness.’ It’s vibration of connection virtually and spiritually that is being addressed here, all bound up in aesthetically beautiful works that combine past and present.

Leo believes that digital art, thanks to the blockchain and NFTs which provide authentication and eliminate fakes, is finally becoming more mainstream and will soon be an entirely normal way to collect and sell art. ‘It’s a revolution but like most revolutions, it soon becomes the norm. Brands are beginning to wake up to the huge marketing potential and importance of the blockchain as we move away from owning so much stuff.

Digital answers this, allowing us to own valuable things but not just physical ones.’ Leo says that the digital work he produces is no different, or less valuable, than the physical work. ‘It’s not the same tools, but it’s the same concept,’ he says.

These themes are why he chose to illuminate our King with a neon halo and to create him digitally. ‘In classical painting, the halo designates the saints through the golden circle depicted around the faces,’ he explains, and while not saying that the King is a saint, the royal crown is its direct descendant, which Leo has chosen to make modern, futuristic and ‘closer to the social meaning of halo: the fact of shining in society, of having a luminous “aura”. I wanted to represent a contemporary statue of King Charles, made of marble but shiny with modernity.

A future-oriented king.’

As an artist, Leo Caillard stands at the convergence of huge societal and artistic change. He is trying to understand it, represent it and make it, overall, beautiful, and something we want. Just like our King. n

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Leo pictured with his work The Aphrodite Wave; The Neon Discobolus (inspired by the Discobolus of Myron); The Hercules Wave (inspired

by Hercules Farnese and Aphrodite of the Capitole)

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Both a marble sculptor and digital artist, Leo’s work bridges past and present, bringing them together

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BRITISH LEATHER GOODS WWW.ETTINGER.CO.UK

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GBB 2023 —— A

ANNOUSHKA

The inspired jewellery brand taking a mindful, playful approach

‘JEWELLERY IS ALL ABOUT MEANING, LEGACY AND SENTIMENT’

‘A

nnoushka is about women designing jewellery for women. This is different from many other companies as often jewellery brands are men designing jewellery for women. For me, jewellery is very playful. It’s a given that the piece should look lovely – but really it’s how it feels and what it means to the wearer.

Jewellery is all about meaning, legacy and sentiment.

Our jewellery is 18ct gold, which means it will still be here in hundreds of years. This is absolutely key to looking after the environment. Gold plate rubs off and that type of jewellery becomes landfill at the end of the day. Our gold is 100 percent recycled and we are working with Positive Luxury to make sure we are as sustainable as possible.

We have been waiting for tourists to come back to London, which, as we’re stocked in Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Liberty, is a very important part of our business.

Luckily, people are now returning.

We also have two stores in Hong Kong, including one in the Mandarin Oriental hotel. This remains a challenge as the hotel has been predominantly closed, with no traffic and no tourists allowed. The Chinese borders are still shut, too.

But we have a huge Middle Eastern following so we are now looking towards that market more.

Despite these difficulties, we’ve

All of Annouska’s designs are made from recycled gold and conflict-free stones

TIMELINE

2009

The brand is founded by Annoushka Ducas, who previously owned luxury global jeweller Links of London with her husband, John Ayton

2013

Annouska Ducas is awarded an MBE by the late Queen Elizabeth II for her contribution to the jewellery industry

2019

Annoushka launches her first 18ct white gold and diamond bridal and engagement collection called ‘Love & Commitment’

2020

Starts fundraiser The Brilliant Breakfast, which has raised over £1.7m for The Prince’s Trust to help disadvantaged young women

2022

Launch of a new collection, ‘Flight’, inspired by the Art Deco era and a sentiment about defining one’s life post-Covid

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had our best year ever, which is great. We fully launched our bespoke service – although I’ve done bespoke for years, I hadn’t really announced it to the world.

So, we are increasingly doing more bespoke. We’ve renamed the service ‘A Life in Charms’, where you can commission an individual piece of jewellery, which represents your life, or that of a loved one. Every piece is very detailed with a playful aspect such as a submarine charm with a spinning propeller or a diamond in a periscope. It’s really exciting.’

Annoushka Ducas, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

Annouska Ducas founded British jewellery brand Links of London.

All of the jewellery is crafted in 18ct gold and conflict-free diamonds.

The brand has signed the SME Climate Hub commitment to halve its emissions by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050.

Annoushka is known as the ‘Queen of Charms’. She has been collecting charms since she was a little girl and has designed them for over 30 years (her estimated number is around 600 charms).

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Annoushka hosts her own podcast, ‘My Life in Seven Charms’, interviewing inspirational women – like Lady Anne Glenconnor and Denise Lewis – and designing their lives in charms (available as a commissionable bespoke service).

ANNOUSHKA 41 Cadogan Gardens London SW3 2TB annoushka.com annoushkajewellery

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GBB 2023 —— A

ANYA HINDMARCH Elevating the every day while championing sustainability

‘I

n these tough, turbulent times, creativity trumps everything.

So we’ve spent time focusing on the creativity in our Village, doing some quite mad and bold projects for a fashion brand, from ice-cream and nail parlour to a non-alcoholic off-licence.

We went from doing big shows for exclusive audiences that last about nine minutes with huge costs and carbon footprint, to building fun experiences that last for weeks to which everyone’s welcome. It brought our community together and gave us a platform to talk about the things we care about, like sustainability. I do my best work when I drown out the noise and listen to my gut. It was important to create an immersive, localised world that felt authentic and that you can’t get online.

We already build the cost of carbon offsetting into our products and, like everyone, we’re facing massive price hikes. It’s inevitable that luxury will get more expensive, but I believe our customers are getting the message to buy fewer but better things.

I watched the demise of British manufacturing and factories closing when I started my business, but now we’re exploring what we can make in the UK again, which feels like an exciting option. It’s good for the environment not to be moving

things around the world and so our direction of travel is trying to source and sell locally. It’s not quick to fix, as lost skills that could take a while to build up again, but I’m really hopeful it can happen.

We launched our special hampers and some lovely gifts at Christmas alongside our popular café, and there’s more fun in our pipeline this year. I will always adore handbags but equally I love anything that’s pleasurable, from accessories and food to experiences, so our brand has definitely become more lifestyle.’

Anya Hindmarch CBE, founder and designer

‘IN THESE TOUGH, TURBULENT TIMES, CREATIVITY TRUMPS EVERYTHING’ TIMELINE

1987

Anya Hindmarch founds her luxury, organisation-obsessed accessories business, with craftship and creativity at its heart

2007

‘I Am Not A Plastic Bag’ tote launches, igniting the debate on plastic bag use and contributing to the UK starting to charge for single-use bags

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2020

Launch of the ‘I Am A Plastic Bag’ tote with a cotton-canvas feel but crafted from 32 half-litre plastic bottles in a bid to divert them from landfill

2021

The Village on Pont Street launches with five stores, a cafe and Village Hall, an everevolving space for one-off experiences

2021

Launch of the ‘Return To Nature’ collection made from fully compostable leather that can actively improve soil health

Anya’s creations and collabs range from playful to powerful

DID YOU KNOW?

1

At The Ice Cream Project, people enjoyed unexpected flavours from baked beans to ketchup, continuing Anya’s love of elevating the everyday.

2

The ‘Return To Nature’ range features hides that are fully traceable, with no harmful chemicals, and the products are finished with liquid silk.

3

To launch the ‘I Am A Plastic Bag’ collection in 2020, the London stores were filled with over 90,000 plastic bottles, roughly the number going into landfill every 8.5 minutes.

4

The ‘Universal Bag’ was launched with Waitrose and Sainsbury’s, and continues the fight to reduce plastic bag usage – nearly half a billion were sold between 2020-2021.

5

The popular Anya Café serves breakfast, lunch, tea and early evening drinks. The cakes, all given an Anya Hindmarch twist, can be taken away as gifts.

ANYA HINDMARCH The Village Hall 11 Pont Street London SW1X 9EH +44 (0)20 7501 0168 anyahindmarch.com anyahindmarch

GBB 2023 —— A

ARAMINTA CAMPBELL

Textiles inspired by the Scottish landscape and handcrafted from British alpaca fleece

‘O

ur brand is about relationships – with the alpaca breeders, the mills, the weavers and our customers – and when the pandemic struck we lost some of that personal connection. While our website offers a peek at what we do, the window to our business will always be our atelier, where we offer a unique private shopping experience: customers can see pieces being crafted, meet the weavers, touch the yarn and view each of our collections.

One of our greatest achievements over the last two years was moving to our beautiful new atelier. Everything we do is inspired by the Scottish landscape and the move has been about creating somewhere that truly encapsulates the brand. The response to the new atelier has been exceptional, not just from domestic visitors but also those coming from overseas. In a world where bigger is better – more stores seem to equate to greater success – we are proud to remain committed to our ethos and values of connection, place, authenticity, people and provenance.

I’m also very proud of several new important partnerships. We designed the tartan for one of the private rooms at The Audley, Artfarm’s pub in Mayfair. We also collaborated with Vacheron Constantin’s Edinburgh boutique.

People, provenance and place are at the heart of Araminta Campbell’s carefully crafted blankets, scarves and furnishings

The atelier is based just outside Edinburgh

TIMELINE

2014

Inspired by the Scottish landscape and its heritage crafts, Araminta Campbell founds the textile brand

2016

The brands ‘SIGNATURE’ collection launches alongside its CUSTOM service for private and corporate clients

2017

The ‘MINTA’ collection launches and The Fife Arms showcases its new designs by Araminta Campbell

2021

Fortnum & Mason unveils its brand tartan by Araminta Campbell and the ‘HERITAGE’ collection launches

2022

Araminta Campbell moves to Duddingston, its flagship atelier on the outskirts of Edinburgh

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‘WE REMAIN COMMITTED TO OUR ETHOS OF CONNECTION, PLACE, AUTHENTICITY, PEOPLE AND PROVENANCE’ We experienced a boom of orders in 2022 and if we see a similar boom this year, we will be at full capacity. One of the main challenges is that hand weaving is a slow process. I’m planning to increase the number of weavers we employ but it’s a highly skilled job and takes 12 months of training for weavers to be fully independent. I’m hoping to start an apprenticeship programme within the next five years that would help, but we don’t want the business to grow too quickly. We make beautiful one-off pieces and will never want to produce thousands of them.’

Araminta Birse-Stewart, founder and Creative Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

All of the brand’s textiles are made in Scotland, the country that inspired their design.

Pieces are made entirely by hand, with each one taking up to three weeks to make.

A hundred percent of the brand’s alpaca fleeces are carefully sourced from British breeders.

It works with select breeders to ensure the welfare of alpaca and workers alike.

4

There are 22 natural colours of alpaca fleece and the brand’s ‘SIGNATURE’ and ‘MINTA’ collections are crafted from undyed British alpaca fleece, showcasing the beauty of nature.

5

The brand knows the name of every alpaca whose fleece goes into making its handwoven pieces.

ARAMINTA CAMPBELL LTD Duddingston, South Queensferry West Lothian, Scotland EH30 9SN +44 (0)131 555 7395 aramintacampbell.co.uk aramintacampbell

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GBB 2023 —— A

ASCOT RACECOURSE A pillar of British sporting and social culture since 1711

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Band of the Scots Guards opens the tradition of singing round the bandstand; runners head down the straight mile; a delicious Ollie Dabbous dish in The Sandringham Restaurant; the Royal Procession 2022; racegoers toast a win

‘A

s the jewel in the crown of British racing, Ascot has always been able to deliver quality of the highest standard. However, the hardest thing for us last year was getting back to normal and discovering, as everyone else has, that normal has changed.

The major changes though haven’t been at our largest events – Royal Ascot 2022 was a fantastic success as it returned to full capacity.

Purchasing behaviours, however, have changed, particularly at

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Greencoats have formed the ceremonial guard for the monarch at Ascot since 1744. It’s rumoured their uniforms were originally made from left over velvet curtains from Windsor Castle.

general admission level. Customers now have increased expectations around service and value.

They’re looking for more; they’re looking for exceptional. What none of us really know though is whether they are simply reacting to post-pandemic life and economic challenges or whether, as a business, we should look at our product mix and fundamentally change the way we do things.

As a brand we face two main challenges this year. Firstly, the cost of living crisis means we need to be sensitive to the fact that we are a racecourse for everybody and have to be accessible to all.

Secondly, we need to focus more on our digital offering. We have already embarked on a number of important projects, including ticketing and digital integration, as well as expanding our online content.

The podcast series we launched in the run-up to Royal Ascot last year, for example, was hugely successful.

We also had successful lifestyle launches around food and drink for Royal Ascot, as well as a new content series called Time for Tea, interviewing well-known faces on everything from racing to holidays.

Racing will always be at the core of everything we do but we believe that scalable commercial growth will come from international development. Royal Ascot is already renowned worldwide; the future for Ascot Racecourse will be as a global lifestyle brand that is led by world-class racing.’

2

Until 1783, jockeys could wear whatever they liked, causing great confusion when it came to identifying the winners. Jockeys were then instructed to wear the colours of their horse’s owners.

3

The beginnings of an Ascot dress code can be traced back to the late 1700s when Beau Brummel decreed that men of elegance should wear waisted black coats, white cravats and pantaloons.

4

Gold Cup Day was first colloquially termed ‘Ladies’ Day’ in 1823, when an anonymous poet described Royal Ascot Thursday as ‘Ladies’ Day… when the women, like angels, look sweetly divine’.

5

Just after the First World War, well-to-do Helen Vernet became the first woman to pass the ‘fit and proper’ character test required to obtain a bookmaker’s license.

ASCOT RACECOURSE High Street, Ascot Berkshire SL5 7JX +44 (0)344 346 3600 ascot.com ascotracecourse

Felicity Barnard, Commercial Director

TIMELINE

1711

Queen Anne sees the potential for a racecourse at Eastcote, declaring it an ideal place for ‘horses to gallop at full stretch’ while out riding

1768

First four-day June meeting takes place at Ascot in Berkshire, an event that becomes known sometime after as Royal Ascot

1822

The Royal Enclosure is conceived by King George IV and access is by invitation of the King.

To this day entry is still by invitation only

1996

Frankie Dettori, with his trademark flying dismount, makes racing history when he wins all seven races on the card at the Festival of British Racing

2006

Ascot closes for a £200m redevelopment in 2004 and is reopened by HM Queen Elizabeth II on 20 June 2006

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GBB 2023 —— A

ASPREY

Ground-breaking luxury goods, combining craftsmanship with state-of-the-art technology John Rigas

Best selling 1781 Pochette in Chevre leather

‘THE ASPREY STUDIO CREATES MODERN MASTERPIECES USING STATE-OF-THE-ART DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY AND TRADITIONAL CRAFT’

PHOTOS: © TERRY TSIOLIS

‘L

ast year we had a very successful entry into Web 3.0 via the launch of Asprey Studio and Club; an entirely new concept that generated the inaugural collaboration between Asprey and Bugatti. The Asprey Studio creates modern masterpieces using stateof-the-art digital technology, traditional craft and the expertise of the craftspeople in Asprey’s London workshops. The Studio’s first collaboration with Bugatti joined together two brands, which throughout history have utilised technology to empower their artisans to push boundaries

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Asprey produced the Coeur de La Mer necklace worn in the 1997 film Titanic, starring Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio, as well as many pieces for the James Bond series.

and create masterpieces.

Another industry first was the launch of the Asprey “Imperial Jadeite” jewellery and objets d’art collection which introduces imperial jadeite on an unprecedented scale into the western world for the first time. We have taken great ancient symbolism and carried it into the 21st century with a 60-plus piece collection, which includes rings, brooches, necklaces, and laser-cut sculptures, brimming with rich meaning. The Bamboo Bracelet, for example, pays tribute to a plant cherished for its prolific growth and represents life improvement, progression, and success; the Blessing Bracelet, comprised of a trio of circular forms, stands for the human pursuit of eternal life; and the Princess Bracelet illustrates peace through its lustre and strength with its hard texture.

Most significantly, the collection represents the highest quality of jadeite available. Mineralogically analysed as representing jadeite by the Earth Sciences Department of the University of Oxford, the pieces are remarkable for their clarity.

As always, looking ahead, we are challenging ourselves on innovation and expanding our client base, trying to appeal to younger buyers who increasingly have novel views as to what constitutes a luxury collectible.

Digital technology developments are an area of major interest and potential for Asprey and we have a project in the works that we hope to announce at the beginning of the year that will be another first in the luxury sector.’

2 3 4 5

Margaret Thatcher was a fan of Asprey’s handbags, some of which appeared in a recent exhibition at the V&A. Asprey creates trophies for sporting events such as the Premier League, Derby Racing and Formula One. Asprey has had a boutique in the renowned Beverly Hills Hotel, Los Angeles for almost 25 years.

Asprey has a horological heritage, with its co-signed watches achieving record breaking figures at auctions today. The most exciting recent collaboration is with watchmaker Andersen Genève.

The Asprey studio: a new dimension of the 241-year-old luxury emporium, Asprey

ASPREY 36 Bruton Street London W1J 6QX +44 (0)20 7493 6767 asprey.com aspreylondon

The Asprey Studio Gallery will open this year

John Rigas, owner and chairman

PHOTOS: © TERRY TSIOLIS

TIMELINE

1781

Asprey is founded in Mitcham, Surrey as a silk printing business by William Asprey

1851

Receives its first gold medal from Queen Victoria, for being one of the best case makers at the Great Exhibition

1862

The brand receives its first Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria for its dressing cases

2006

The Asprey Crest is awarded for its 225th anniversary, for its commitment to craftsmanship and luxury

2021

Asprey celebrates 240 years in business and opens the flagship store on Bruton Street in Mayfair

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GBB 2023 —— A

ATELIER NM

Dynamic creative design studio motivated by change

‘I

grew up during the Lebanese Civil War, around a lot of destruction. I would say my life was destruction in every sense of the word. It was chaos with buildings being destroyed, rubble everywhere and bullet holes around me.

People, of course, get impacted by war emotionally, too. It was demoralising.

My experience of war made me want to be in design because I love rebuilding.

I always felt that there can be a happy end to this destruction. Every project I do feels like emotional rebuilding.

It makes me and my inner child feel happy that there is hope, reconstruction and restoration. In times of darkness, ambition and courage can motivate you and inspire change.

People choose their interior designers according to the style they are known for. However, I like to be more client-led, more eclectic with the idea that you can achieve anything you want. You don’t have to have a particular design style. Instead, you uncover the client’s personality and their vision and make it happen. So, our projects are very varied – but fun, colourful and not generic at all.

I see people’s homes as their sanctuary. Right now, it’s more important than ever to have a home and an anchor. Life is so hard. You need to go home to joy and relaxation. I get a lot of enquiries from people looking for cosy interiors yet also a design which fits into the working-from-home culture. This means, as a business, we have learned to be very adaptable to this lifestyle change. Looking to the future, I would love to design an eclectic boutique hotel using only vintage furniture. My team would be the best at delivering such an exciting project.’

‘I SEE PEOPLE’S HOMES AS THEIR SANCTUARY. RIGHT NOW, IT’S MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER TO HAVE A

Najwa Mroue, founder

HOME AND AN ANCHOR’

TIMELINE

2015

Atelier NM founded by Najwa Mroue, building on her rich cultural heritage

2021

Designed four apartments in Mulberry Square, Chelsea Barracks

2021

Atelier NM project featured in the Interior Design Yearbook

2022

Designed Chelsea Botanica, London’s fastselling new development

2022

Named as one of the top 50 Interior Designers 2022

by Country & Town House

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Atelier NM is sought after for interiors defined by character, colour and authentic expression

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

Najwa was born in Paris and grew up in war-torn Beirut and Czechoslovakia.

Najwa speaks three languages: English, Arabic and French.

One of Atelier NM’s first interior design projects was a famous fashion designer’s four-storey house in London.

Atelier NM’s clients are from all over the world.

So far, they have counted 23 different nationalities.

Najwa has her own bespoke collection of eye-catching rugs, art and accessories which celebrate the beauty of maximalist expression.

ATELIER NM The Pavilion 96 Kensington High Street London W8 4SG +44 (0)7738 528977 atelier-nm.com ateliernminteriors

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GBB 2023 —— THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP

ARE WE STILL FRIENDS? Josh Glancy ponders whether the special relationship between America and Britain is still, well, special ILLUSTRATION BY ROSIE HUNTER

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GBB 2023 —— THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP

ow does America view Britain? It’s a question that nags at our diplomats and chief executives alike. Politicians fret over how best to align Britain with its superpower buddy. Marketing gurus agonise over how to crack the vast American market that offers such rich rewards, but has proven a graveyard for brands from Tesco to Robbie Williams.

Is the special relationship still special? Was it ever? Does a British accent, a British suit, a British flag still represent venerability, quality, history? Or are pity and indifference a more common response?

The reality today is pretty mixed. In the high citadels of liberal US media, modern Britain is perceived as something of a basket case, trapped by the wilful decline of Brexit and in denial over the legacy of empire and colonialism. This is the narrative that has come to dominate coverage of the UK from the likes of CNN and The New York Times.

But it is just one narrative that speaks to one relatively small segment of an enormous country. When most Americans bother to think about Britain at all, it tends to be with a combination of affectionate respect and patronising ‘oh you Brits’ bafflement.

The respect comes from admiration of British history and sophistication. Americans venerate British heritage, most notably the royal family, which remains an obsession for supermarket tabloids and glossy magazines alike. As a foreign correspondent for The Sunday Times in Washington DC, I was never more in demand than when I had a morsel of royal gossip to share with the locals.

American bafflement emanates from our relative poverty, parsimony and lack of air conditioning. From this perspective, Britain is viewed in the way that a wealthy son might see his impecunious father: similar genes, decent guy, but couldn’t get the job done.

Republicans tend to be fairly positive about Britain, admiring our traditions and feeling a sense of Anglo-Saxon kinship. For Democrats, however, Britain is often seen through the prism

of Brexit and imperial hangovers; a reliable ally still, but one that has rather gone to seed.

And yet for all the declinist narratives, Britain still plays a prominent and alluring role in the American imagination. West End theatre, for example, is still viewed as the gold standard. Many of the best plays I saw while living in New York in the late 2010s were London transfers, even when they covered specifically American themes, such as The Lehman Trilogy or Angels in America.

Premier League football, arguably the most successful British brand on the planet, continues to expand its reach in America, with well over a million viewers now tuning in for big games. Like many recent period pieces, Downton Abbey has been an enormous and enduring hit. James Bond is still totemic. And Harry Styles has become so too, greeted in the US today with almost as much fervour as The Beatles were in 1964. Soho House, with its shiny modern take on the traditional British members’ club, has had extraordinary success in New York, Los Angeles and Miami, selling a vision of cosmopolitan class and exclusivity.

London also remains a magnet for a certain type of wealthy, adventurous young American.

A world city where you can speak (most of) the language, work for major companies and watch familiar TV shows, but also experience the rootedness and sophistication of Europe, with the Amalfi coast or Aix-en-Provence just a short fl ight away. Americans in London are baffled by the dearth of first-rate Mexican food, but thrilled to discover that our equivalent cuisine – Indian – is served here at a level beyond anything you’ll find in the US. I’ll never forget the look on my American wife’s face the first time she tried the tiger prawns at Gymkhana.

All of which means that certain types of British brands still resonate strongly with American consumers. Not all brands, by any means – just

Harry Styles and James Bond are beloved by Americans

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

AMERICANS LOOK TO BRITAIN TO FILL IN THEIR BACK STORY. TO OFFER THE WIT AND WISDOM AND CULTIVATION THAT WERE SOMEHOW LOST IN THE BREAKNECK QUEST TO BUILD A NEW WORLD

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Six brands the Americans would cross the pond for...

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GBB 2023 —— THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP

Americans can’t get enough of the British royal family

ask Philip Green. But according to the Department for International Trade, US consumers spend around £12.5bn annually on UK goods and services. In 2018, before the pandemic, almost four million Americans visited the UK, spending an estimated £3.4bn.

What’s the appeal? In a quick poll of some Americans I know, the same words came up again and again. ‘Classic.’

‘Craft.’ ‘Heritage.’ ‘Timeless.’ Americans want from Britain what they can’t get at home: a sense of the ancient. Traditions of craft sustained and developed over centuries.

The kinds of products that emerge from a millennia of wealthy, settled living.

Mass market British brands such as Tesco and Topshop failed in the US because America pretty much invented mass production. But higher-end niche products such as Barbour jackets, Hunter wellies, Jo Malone perfume and Farrow & Ball paint all have loyal followings. Americans like the fact that British brands don’t all feel as though they’ve been exploited and expanded beyond all recognition. They seem more personal, somehow. Wealthy Americans in London will try Harrods and Selfridges of course, but the department stores that really get them going are Liberty and Fortnum & Mason, which offer something more distinct.

Most American men are born with a style lobotomy, so aesthetes often gravitate towards elite British clothing brands and I know of several Savile Row tailors who make a tidy living on their tours of America.

British gentleman’s brands such as Aquascutum, Huntsman and New & Lingwood offer American dandies a dash of the Beau Brummell that you

simply can’t find in New York. Similarly, classic Northamptonshire shoe brands such as Church’s, Edward Green and Crockett & Jones embody the idea of handmade yeoman craft that so tickles a new world parvenu.

The same is true for whisky. It was a pleasant surprise to me upon moving to America that I was able to order my favourite – and not particularly famous – Scotch, Oban, in bars across the country. (Though of course I had to pronounce it phonetically, ‘O-Ban’, and not correctly, ‘O-Bun’). But it makes sense really. Kentucky bourbon can play all it likes on pioneer and prohibition themes, but if you really care about quality then nothing can match a Talisker or a Laphroaig for a timeworn and peaty sense of place.

It’s true that underlying these affiliations is a depressing ‘OMG that’s soooo cute’ fetishisation that sometimes characterises American attitudes to Britain. Some behave as though they are visiting a Disneyfied heritage park.

Others can’t tell the difference between the Cotswolds and Cornwall.

Are Americans only interested in a tweedy Downton-ised pastiche of Britain? There’s certainly some accuracy to this critique. But among the more discerning, there is also a genuine sense that for all its travails, Britain offers something that America does not.

Americans look to Britain to fill in their back story. To offer the wit and wisdom and cultivation that were somehow lost in the breakneck quest to build a new world. And to sell them products they simply forgot how to make. n

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

AMERICANS VENERATE BRITISH HERITAGE, MOST NOTABLY THE ROYAL FAMILY, WHICH REMAINS AN OBSESSION FOR TABLOIDS AND GLOSSIES ALIKE

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PERSONALISED GIFTS TO BE TREASURED FOR YEARS TO COME

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B

GBB 2023

BARBOUR 44

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GBB 2023 —— B

BARBOUR Producing waxed jackets made to last a lifetime for 128 years

‘A

s a fifth generation familyowned business we’ve lived through difficult world events before, including two world wars, and we have always been resilient and respectful to the situations our customers face. They know and trust our brand to keep producing quality products at a fair price. Today, we are a global lifestyle brand sold across the world and while the recent pandemic, Brexit and the war in Ukraine have required us to adapt, I believe that with our prudent housekeeping we will emerge even more productive and efficient.

The Barbour catalogues, started in 1908 by my daughter Helen’s great grandfather Malcolm Barbour, have been a great source of inspiration. Through them we discovered that he had first introduced a re-waxing and repair service in 1921, over 100 years ago.

Re-waxing a jacket at least once a year will ensure it lasts, making it a good investment and minimising its environmental impact.

In 2020, we introduced Wax for Life, an overarching name for our re-waxing, repairs and Barbour Re-Loved services. Barbour Re-Loved , our upcycling, circularity initiative allows customers to return wax jackets that they no longer have a need for in return for a voucher to buy a new one. We’ll clean, rewax, repair and ‘re-love’ the jacket, ready for a new home.

In November 2021 the Prince of Wales, now King Charles III, honoured us by accepting my

TIMELINE

1894

John Barbour founded the brand in South Shields, originally selling hardy oilskins to mariners and farmers

1973

Dame Margaret Barbour becomes Chairman and continues to lead the company, which today is sold in over 55 countries

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1980

Dame Margaret designs the wax jackets, the Bedale, Beaufort and Border, that make it a household name

1988

The Barbour Trust (now Barbour Foundation) is established to support local and national charitable causes

2021

Barbour celebrates 100 years of re-waxing and repairing jackets, revitalising over 60,000 jackets every year

‘OUR CUSTOMERS TRUST US TO KEEP PRODUCING QUALITY PRODUCTS AT A FAIR PRICE’ invitation to open our Wax for Life Workshop in South Shields. He even tried re-waxing a jacket himself.

We have always remained true to our founding principles of quality, durability, attention to detail and being fit for purpose.

As a responsible brand, we believe in making products that last and we continuously work hard to minimise our impact on the environment so that our customers of the future can continue to enjoy wearing Barbour.’

Dame Margaret Barbour, Chair

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Barbour HQ in South Shields in the North East of England has been home to the brand since it was founded 128 years ago.

The most unusual items found in Barbour jackets returned to customer services include sheep’s tails, love letters, a snaffle bit, door keys and £120 in cash.

3

A 1910 Haydon coat is the oldest archive jacket. Worn by ‘Uncle Harry’ when photographing golden eagles, it was passed down through generations of his family before being returned to Barbour.

4

To achieve a perfect country worn-in look, use your Barbour jacket as a picnic rug – the longer you spend sitting, lying or wriggling on it, the better the result!

5

You can re-wax your jacket yourself at home. Once you’ve re-waxed it, use a hairdryer to dry off the wax, and – top tip – never, ever put your wax jacket in the washing machine!

Barbour has been kitting out countryside lovers with durable and dependable jackets and clothing for over 100 years

BARBOUR Simonside, South Shields Tyne & Wear NE34 9PD +44 (0)191 455 4444 barbour.com barbour

GBB 2023 —— B

BERRY BROS. & RUDD Britain’s oldest wine and spirits merchant builds on its heritage

‘T

his year we celebrate 325 years since Berry Bros. & Rudd first opened its doors to its customers. We wouldn’t be here today without resilience and positivity which are absolutely core to us – and our family ethos underpins everything we do.

We often say Berry Bros. & Rudd has one foot in the past but is also very much looking forward and embracing change and challenges.

– and there are many challenges out there. We focus on the ones where we can make a positive difference: helping our customers drink better now. This includes the collecting of fine wine and spirits. Customers

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The cellars beneath Berry Bros. & Rudd are the size of two football pitches.

love coming to us for both fantastic advice and access to wines that are difficult to find. We’ve also got wonderful entertaining areas.

The big news is that we have just opened a new 117,000 sq/ft warehouse in Hampshire, with total warehousing for 14 million bottles of wine. Here, we store our customers’ wines in the best quality of environments with controlled humidity and temperature. We are also building our ultra-premium brands – No.3 Gin is going from strength to strength. It’s important that we complement our fine wines with spirits.

Making a positive social impact is another big focus area for us – particularly with the launch of the BB&R Foundation, which helps our colleagues and communities. We’ve also signed up with three schools in underprivileged areas and we will be providing 1,000 breakfasts to children every day in term time.

This goes hand in hand with the tremendous amount of work we are doing on sustainability, from the solar panels on the roofs at our warehouses, to 25 percent of our fleet being electric with a goal of 90 percent within three years. We are also collaborating with the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation, which promotes and supports a nature-focused approach to viticulture. This is critical to us and our futuregeneration thinking.’

In 1924, the business was asked to supply 1,200 miniature bottles for Queen Mary’s dolls’ house. Each bottle has the correct label and the correct wine inside.

3 4 5

No.3 London Dry Gin has been awarded Best Gin in the World four times.

The business’ new warehouse in Hampshire has capacity for 14,000,000 bottles of wine.

Pickering Place, located just behind Berry Bros. & Rudd, is thought to be the place the last duel in London was fought.

BERRY BROS. & RUDD 3 St James’s Street London SW1A 1EG +44 (0)800 280 2440 bbr.com berrybrosrudd

Berry Bros. & Rudd has been supplying its customers with fine wines and spirits for 325 years

Emma Fox, CEO

TIMELINE

1698

Berry Bros. & Rudd founded at No.3 St James’s Street, opposite St. James’s Palace, which became the principal residence of the monarch

1760

The wine merchant first supplies the British Royal Family under George III, a tradition it upholds to this day

1765

Being weighed on the scales at BB&R becomes fashionable. Famous figures include royal princes, Lord Byron and the Aga Khan

1903

Berry Bros. & Rudd awarded its first Royal Warrant for creating The King’s Ginger liqueur for King Edward VII

1998

Berry Bros. & Rudd celebrates 300 years.

The brand is awarded its second Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales in 1997

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GBB 2023 —— ICONIC BRANDS

theLIST Ten Iconic British Brands

JOSH GLANCY picks the homegrown names beloved for their enduring appeal

3

DAYLESFORD

The beating heart of the new Cotswolds is a mecca for hordes of Americans hunting for chunky blankets and cottagecore. daylesford.com

4

SOHO HOUSE

1

Sure, they have them all over now. But Soho House keenos will still flock to the London chapters for a taste of the OG (original gangster). sohohouse.com

NEW & LINGWOOD

Not everyone desires or indeed can afford their aristocratic silk robes and scarves. But those who do – and can – flock here. newandlingwood.com

2

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The original punk designer continues to challenge the status quo. viviennewestwood.com

5

SOANE

Unmoved by the Lulu Lytle Downing Street scandal, wealthy transatlantics love to plaster their homes in Soane designs. soane.co.uk

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9

BARBOUR

Practical, posh and something Kate Middleton would wear. Sought by aspirational Americans. barbour.com

6

LIBERTY LONDON

From William Morris prints to Dinny Hall jewellery, Liberty offers a distinctly British take on the department store. libertylondon.com

7

ROBERT KIME

The titan of English decorating recently passed away, but his timeless style is still adored by interior aficionados. robertkime.com

8

MACALLAN

Of all the many scotches that are venerated in the US, Macallan has perhaps the widest appeal. themacallan.com

10

LAND ROVER

Beloved for its offto-Gloucestershirewith-a-Lab-in-theboot vibe, US sales of Land Rovers have boomed in the past decade. landrover.co.uk COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 49

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GBB 2023 —— B

BIOGLAN BEAUTY COLLAGEN

A wellness boost to your daily routine

‘B

ioglan offers a range of products with a variety of health benefits. This includes Bioglan’s Beauty Collagen, which harnesses the power of Marine Collagen with a blend of vitamins and minerals to support healthierlooking hair, skin and nails.

The Collagen is available in four different formats: gummies, ef fer vescents, powder and tablets. Our strawberry-flavoured gummies are delicious and great to take in the morning.

The tablets are good for adding to your daily routine. With the powder, the strongest form of collagen in the range, you can sprinkle it over your breakfast or in your smoothie and the effervescent can be added to your water for a delicious berry-flavoured drink.

Last year, we executed a very successful social video content series called “In Bioglan Balance”, which championed the entire brand range. The content series featured three top tier athletes and one social media star, who discussed the importance of finding balance within their lives.

We kicked off the content series with international rugby legend, Joe Marler, former rugby legend and Strictly Come Dancing star, Ugo Monye, GB Olympic Gold Medallist Helen Glover, and finally TikTok sensation Leoni Joyce. The campaign tied in with the wider trend, and important key brand messages, around holistic health.

With the current climate, everyone is feeling the stress at the moment. But we are finding

Bioglan’s products are formulated to support healthier-looking hair, skin and nails

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‘PEOPLE ARE VERY CONSCIOUS ABOUT THEIR IMMUNITY – PARTICULARLY AFTER COVID – AND KEEPING WELL IN GENERAL’ that people are still definitely looking to improve their health.

It’s very much at the top of people’s mind. People are very conscious about their immunity – particularly after Covid – and keeping well in general. We also feel mental health is very important and want to help people in any way we can.

This year, we are looking forward to continuing to grow the brand. We have lots of exciting things coming up next year which we should be able to share soon.’

Shelby Beeden, Brand Manager

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Bioglan Beauty Collagen is specially formulated with readily absorbed hydrolysed marine collagen, vitamin C and biotin to help support the maintenance of healthy-looking hair, skin and nails.

2 3 4

Bioglan uses type I collagen, which is the most abundant form of collagen found in the body and the type found in hair, skin and nails.

Biotin and selenium contribute to the maintenance of normal, healthy hair.

Vitamin C contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin. Selenium contributes to the maintenance of normal nails.

5

As we age, our skin’s natural ‘collagen factories’ begin to wind down and lose the ability to make and store collagen. This is when we start seeing the first visible signs of ageing.

BIOGLAN 3 Dialog Fleming Way Crawley RH10 9NQ bioglan.co.uk bioglanbeautycollagen

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GBB 2023 —— B

BREMONT

Watches tested beyond endurance, now with Bremont’s own British-made movements

‘O

ur huge excitement of 2022 was launching our H1 Generation of watches, representing a triumphant milestone after a challenging 20-year journey, working towards manufacturing watch movements in the UK at scale.

The H1 generation contains our ENG300 series of Bremontmanufactured movements, tested to our H1 Timing Standard.

The three models comprise the elegant, understated Audley, the Fury, a contemporary take on the classic pilot’s watch, and the Supernova, our first stainless-steel integrated bracelet design crafted in-house. The Supernova is worn by the actor, Mark Strong, our new ambassador and face of our campaign, ‘Time is just time – It’s what you do with it that counts’.

Our ambassadors inspire us daily, as they break world records and embark on global firsts.

Last year was also our second year of working with Williams Racing, a quintessentially British F1 team.

There are three Grand Prix races in the US in 2023, which is great for us, because America is an important growing market.

Our military watches adorn the wrists of combat personnel worldwide and we’re proud to work closely with elite military units everywhere, providing bespoke watches to match their needs based on models from our core collection. On top of our

Nick and Giles English are reinvigorating British watchmaking by making watch movements in the UK at scale

2002

Nick and Giles English embark on a journey to make beautifully crafted pilots’ watches on British soil, aiming to reinvigorate the UK’s horological past

2007

They present their first watches, inspired by a love of historic aircraft and all things mechanical, and tested beyond the normal call of duty

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2009

Partnership with Martin-Baker begins, launching the Bremont MB collection, the only timepieces to be tested on live ejection seat launches

2021

Bremont opens The Wing, the 35,000 sq/ft centre in Henleyon- Thames, and launches its ENG300 movement series

2022

The H1 Generation is introduced, featuring Bremont’s manufactured movement series in a new generation of 40mm timepieces

PHOTOS: © ALAN SCHALLER

TIMELINE

‘OUR MISSION WAS ALWAYS TO REIGNITE THIS ONCE BOOMING BRITISH INDUSTRY AND NOW IT’S TRULY HAPPENING’ US plans, we have a beautiful new store opening in Melbourne and are planning a number of further boutique openings globally.

Our 2023 focus is on expanding our manufacturing capacity. This is key, and close to our hearts. Since Smiths in the 1960s, no British watch brand has ever made movements on the industrial scale that we are. We welcome many visitors to The Wing, and they can see clearly just how much we invest in our machinery, watch-making and engineering teams. Our mission was always to reignite this once booming British industry and now it’s truly happening, heralding a new era for volume British watchmaking.’

Giles English, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Bremont is named after Antoine Bremont, the French farmer who helped them hide their 1930s biplane when Nick and Giles made an emergency landing in France.

2

The ‘H1’ in the newly launched H1 series is a nod to the 17th-century horological pioneer John Harrison and Henley-on-Thames, home of Bremont’s HQ, The Wing.

3

Bremont partners with the MoD and is the sole luxury watch producer allowed to use the signs, symbols and heraldic badges of all three of His Majesty’s Armed Forces within its Armed Forces Collection.

4 5

A human hair is approximately 70 microns. Bremont machines metal into precision case parts to within tolerances of three microns.

On the wrists of its ambassadors, Bremont’s watches have travelled from North to South Poles, from ocean depths to mountain tops, perfectly embodying Bremont’s mantra of ‘Tested Beyond Endurance’.

BREMONT The Wing, Reading Road Henley-on-Thames Oxfordshire RG9 4GE +44 (0)800 817 4281 bremont.com bremontwatches

GBB 2023 —— B

BROOK + WILDE

The British sleep brand leading the way in innovation

‘O

ur ambition was always to make really excellent products. Most of our products are made in the UK and we are proud to be a British business. We try and innovate as much as we can. If our products have nothing different to say or they are not head and shoulders above the competition, then it’s just not interesting to us. We want to create products that are difficult to replicate and unique within the marketplace.

Every year is challenging for different reasons. It’s a tough environment we are operating in. But I think we’ve done well by

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Over 85 percent of Brook + Wilde’s products are manufactured in the UK.

The brand was voted as the highest-performing customer experience in the furniture sector.

sticking to our principles. It’s easy to bang out average products, but if you create something that’s special and built to last, you’ll find there’s demand for that.

When you’re at the forefront of innovation and pushing levels of quality, you set standards that put the business in a good place overall.

We’re diversifying into new sectors and becoming not just a sleep brand, but a brand that people want to have in their home.

A desirable name. We’ve recently launched a range of sofa beds and sofas, all made in the UK, in a range of colourways. We’re building on our reputation of producing excellence, and extended our range of linens, pillows and duvets, which are made using a niche silk and cashmere that isn’t available anywhere else in the UK. We are trying to grow the business organically and launching into areas which we know will add value from a customer perspective. We are also working hard on developing the experience and knowledge of our team so we can offer better service to consumers. We take that really seriously. If something goes wrong then we make it right. We go the extra mile to make sure people are happy.’

Brook + Wilde has more celebrity clients than any other British home interiors brand (including Anthony Joshua, George Clarke, several high-profile music artists and various Premier League footballers).

4 5

The brand’s Perla mattress is lauded as the most ostentatious mattress of 2022.

Brook + Wilde was voted as one of the best luxury furniture brands by GQ and other luxury titles.

BROOK + WILDE 5 St Johns Lane Farringdon, London EC1M 4BH +44 (0)808 169 9070 brookandwilde.com brookandwilde

Brook + Wilde’s innovative and luxurious sleep range includes mattresses, pillows, bed and sofa beds

Andrew Tyler and Jonathan Coulson, co-founders

TIMELINE

2018

Brook + Wilde is founded, immediately gaining notoriety for ridiculously comfortable and luxurious mattresses – plus awards aplenty

2020

The brand launches a luxury pillow range – the quality of which is available only at Harrods and Brook + Wilde

2021

Sofa beds launch – with the world’s first hybrid mattress – offering people a sofa bed that’s actually comfortable to sleep on

2022

The sofa collection, which comes in a range of colours, is launched via Great British Brands – Brook + Wilde’s first major press announcement

2022

The brand’s Ultima mattress, with ten layers of support plus two types of springs, is awarded ‘Mattress of the Year’

by Expert Reviews

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GBB 2023 —— CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

BRITAIN’S GOT TALENT The UK leads the charge when it comes to the creative industries, says Peter Bazalgette ILLUSTRATION BY ROSIE HUNTER

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ccording to the Global Innovation Index (yes, there is such a thing), the UK ranks fourth in the world behind just Switzerland, the US and Sweden. And it’s reported we’re particularly strong in creativity, research, financial services and infrastructure. I want to focus on one of these, our creative industries: our TV shows, popular music, video games, advertising and marketing, architecture and design, fashion, and software. We’re open for business and it’s our ideas that we like to share with the world – to the tune of more than £50 billion of exports annually.

In 2014 I was lucky enough to accompany the then Prime Minister and Chancellor on a trade trip to China. We were generously hosted by the National Theatre of China in Beijing. And the show they put on for us was strangely familiar, albeit in Mandarin. They’d staged the enormous British hit, War Horse, and we saw brilliantly spirited performances by their actors, dressed of course in the uniform of World War I officers on France’s Western Front. Later, at a banquet with Chinese ministers and officials, 500 people watched in awestruck silence as one of the War Horse ‘puppets’ entered, pounding its proud hooves, moving around the guests.

What’s the value of an idea? Our wonderful children’s author Michael Morpurgo originally wrote War Horse as a book, with its captivating, if sometimes brutal, tale of horses in World War I. It was a bestseller. Our National Theatre turned it into a spellbinding piece of theatre. Then Steven Spielberg made it into a Hollywood movie. When a great idea strikes a chord, exploring universal themes, it takes on a life of its own, delivering great cultural value and simultaneously fuelling the growing economic contribution of the creative industries worldwide.

Much of our creative industries’ output is rooted in the need for human beings to both tell and be told stories.

It’s the way we make sense of our lives and hone our empathy muscles. And Brits have a particularly pervasive tradition for this, rooted in the brilliance of Shakespeare, translated into virtually every language in the world. Is it too much of a stretch to see this sensibility in our TV soap

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

‘WHEN A GREAT IDEA STRIKES A CHORD, EXPLORING UNIVERSAL THEMES, IT TAKES ON A LIFE OF ITS OWN, DELIVERING GREAT CULTURAL VALUE AND ECONOMIC CONTRIBUTION’

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PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: War Horse was first a book, then a play, then a film; Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen are global fashion power houses; Ed Sheeran and Dua Lipa are international stars

operas that sell around the world? Or in the TV dramas our rapidly growing studio production businesses are supplying to international streaming services? I’d argue not. The essence of telling stories is capturing an audience, not just at home. This applies just as much to video games, where we’ve been the world’s third largest producer, with hit franchises like Grand Theft Auto, Tomb Raider, Burnout, LittleBigPlanet, Wipeout and Dirt.

And our music exports, where every haunting song touches an emotional as well as a literal chord. In 2021, artists like Adele, Ed Sheeran, Dua Lipa and Dave each notched up more than 100 million global streams. Not to leave out our advertising and marketing industry, whose creative output burnishes the world’s brand stories.

Indeed, we think of our creative sector as a collection of sub-sectors: screen, advertising, video games, publishing, music, all of which feature above. But we also promote fashion and fashion design, celebrating the likes of the late Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and now Daniel Lee, the new home-grown Chief Creative Officer at Burberry. And increasingly we talk of createch: the magic that happens when great creative design meets tech innovation. Last summer a televised Platinum Jubilee concert outside Buckingham Palace celebrated our Queen (sadly only a few months, as it turned out, before her death). At its culmination, there was a spectacular digital display above the palace. Four hundred drones were deployed in fluid formation, magically conjuring up some inspiring images, ending with the fantastical silhouette of a corgi (Her Majesty’s favourite pet). It amazed and delighted everyone watching around the world.

The company behind it was SkyMagic, based partly in the UK and Singapore.

We’ll be investing in createch in years to come for both its cultural and economic value.

I currently chair the Royal College of Art in London, an institution set up in the 19th century to encourage excellent art and design in the support of commerce, and repeatedly voted the number one art and design college in the world.

Its international graduate students specialise in fusing creative design with innovative technology. Recent successful spin-outs include a comfortable mouth cover for cattle, which cuts down methane emissions, and a pollution-reducing device attached to tyres that collects the minute particles they throw off. You get the picture. The next decade is set to see an explosion of createch and we welcome ingenious students from everywhere to join our hubs of excellence.

When I write about the UK’s ‘creative industries’, here they have a specific meaning. We were the first country in the world to identify and define such an industrial sector in 1997, measured via nine key sub-sectors: advertising; architecture; crafts; design and designer fashion; screen, radio and photography; software and computer games; publishing; museums, galleries and libraries; music and performing arts. And we added the definition via which we worked this out: ‘industries which have their origin in individual creativity, skill and talent, and which have a potential COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 59

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GBB 2023 —— CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

for wealth and job creation through the generation and exploitation of intellectual property.’

This market intervention has borne fruit. And it’s backed up by other market interventions in the screen sub-sector. The BBC is perhaps the greatest example, dating back to the 1920s, when radio first took off.

As it developed through the 20th century, it incorporated television, too, to become a dynamic partner in our democracy. Because, unusually, it’s publicly funded but with the specific journalistic remit to hold the government to account. It’s from this philosophy that the BBC World Service sprang. It was via the BBC World Service that Gorbachev, under house arrest during an attempted coup, found out what was really happening in his own country. Still today, Russian citizens can get a different perspective on the Ukraine conflict from the BBC, distributed on platforms like YouTube.

The BBC is required to be impartial. There are many arguments here and abroad about how well it manages this. But it does genuinely strive for it.

Britain has an outsized share of television formats, led by the likes of Who Wants To Be A Millionaire?, Britain’s Got Talent and Survivor. Impressively, our formats account for around half the worldwide trade in this intellectual property. One of the main reasons for this, apart from our inventive producers, is that our main broadcasters constantly demand new ideas, as they are required to by their licensing regulator.

Another more recent market intervention has been a system of ‘tax credits’ for UK-produced TV and film dramas. Along with our strong craft talent base and our happy possession of the English language, this

has led to an extraordinary boom in screen production, fed by strong demand from streaming platforms like Netflix, Amazon, Apple and Disney+. In fact, by the end of 2022, we probably had more studio space than Hollywood. We host top movie franchises like Mission Impossible, popular streaming hits such as Game of Thrones, and a plethora of other series and one-offs. We also have a particular speciality: a strange preoccupation with murder, for which Agatha Christie was probably originally to blame. We kill off the population of a medium-sized city every year in our various hit dramas, and a cast of celebrated detectives never fails to find the culprits. One of our best sellers, Midsomer Murders, appears onscreen in some parts of the world simply entitled, English Murder.

We see ourselves as a creative country.

And I hope others can acknowledge that the evidence demonstrates this is more than national vanity. More importantly, our creative sector remains very much open for business with the world. We see this as a two-way street, from the valued international students arriving to join our art schools and universities, to the TV formats we’re happy to swap with the rest of the world. For instance, the biggest break-out entertainment hit on British screens at the moment happens to be the brilliantly original Masked Singer from South Korea.

We’re currently in the early years of an industrial revolution, that of the digital internet age. As AI destroys occupations in many traditional areas, creative sectors will deliver growth in high value jobs – after all, you need people for ideas. So we can enhance our economic health as well as our cultural wealth. We’re up for it. n

WE SEE OURSELVES AS A CREATIVE COUNTRY. THIS IS MORE THAN NATIONAL VANITY. MORE IMPORTANTLY, OUR CREATIVE SECTOR REMAINS VERY MUCH OPEN FOR BUSINESS WITH THE WORLD

PHOTOS: © SKYMAGIC

SkyMagic dazzled the whole world with its incredible light show at the Queen’s jubilee last year

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CD

GBB 2023

CADOGAN 62 CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO 64 CHELSEA BARRACKS 66 CHRISTYS’ HATS 68 CLIVE CHRISTIAN 70 COLE & SON 72 THE CONRAN SHOP 74 COOMBE FARM ORGANIC 76

COZE 78 CROCKETT & JONES 80 CROW AND JESTER 84 DALE ROGERS AMMONITE 86 DAVID HUNT LIGHTING 88 DAVIDSON 90 DEIRDRE DYSON 92 DR SEBAGH 94

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GBB 2023 —— C

CADOGAN

Preserving Chelsea’s past and ensuring its future

‘C

adogan is a 300-year-old family business with an unwavering long-term commitment to the community of the Estate’s 93 acres, spanning Chelsea and Knightsbridge.

With the benefit of consistent strategic leadership, we can plan for the future and create projects which we know will have a positive impact for the neighbourhood. It has been a joy to see Pavilion Road transformed from a backstreet mews to a thriving home for independent artisans including a butcher, baker and cheesemonger which buzzes all day as a community meeting place.

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We have now started to make good progress with “Chelsea 2030”, our ambitious plan to drive positive environmental and social change and ensure sustainability is integrated into every aspect of the business. This includes tackling the pressing environmental issues facing us all – from climate change to air quality and carbon emissions.

We have begun a major roll-out of retrofitting across our portfolio of largely period properties – including solar panels for our HQ at Duke of York Square – and many local community partnerships and projects including the “twinning” of Pavilion Road’s edible trail at The Chelsea Academy. We have also recently driven the creation of the King’s Road Partnership, the borough’s first Business Improvement District, a collaborative effort to ensure the King’s Road remains one of the world’s most famous high streets, at the forefront of community and creativity.

Everything we do aims to strengthen the neighbourhood for the long term, from selecting independent retailers to increasing vibrancy through an excellent hospitality offer and initiatives such as our significant roll-out of new outdoor seating and events programme, to enhancing the public realm. We have begun a complete transformation of Sloane Street, introducing extensive new climate-resilient planting to create an elegant green boulevard and better absorb airborne pollutants, while resurfacing pavements with a beautiful honey-hued York stone to benefit pedestrians.

It will help London compete better internationally as the destination for luxury shopping, while bringing many benefits to the local community.’

DID YOU KNOW?

1

In 2022, as part of its Chelsea 2030 stewardship strategy, Cadogan collaborated with Louis Vuitton, SUGi and Moet & Chandon to create the rewilding project ‘Serenity Forest’.

2

During Covid, Cadogan introduced 900 al fresco seats – now permanent – across the Estate to support outdoor dining and gathering.

3 4

Cadogan creates Chelsea in Bloom each year, London’s largest free flower festival.

Exciting new retail openings include flagships for Ralph Lauren, Soho Home, Emilia Wickstead and Diptyque – and hospitality launches include The Cadogan Hotel, Cantinetta Antinori, and Beaverbrook Townhouse.

5

A huge transformation of Sloane Street begins this year. It includes extensive greening, further elevating its status as one of the world’s most desirable luxury destinations.

Following in the footsteps of its original architect, Henry Holland, the Cadogan Estate is transforming its 93 acres to benefit both community and commerce

CADOGAN 10 Duke of York Square London SW3 4LY +44 (0)20 7730 4567 cadogan.co.uk

Hugh Seaborn, CEO

TIMELINE

1717

The Cadogan Estate is established after the marriage of Charles, 2nd Baron Cadogan to Elizabeth Sloane

1777

Sloane Street is created by architect Henry Holland, who starts to build on what was then the outskirts of London

1830

The King’s Road becomes a public highway (rather than the King’s private road between palaces)

1998

Cadogan acquires Duke of York Square and transforms it into an public square – now home to the Saatchi Gallery

2021

Completion and pedestrianisation of Pavilion Road, from a backwater mews to thriving home for artisans

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CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO

Meticulously handcrafted, internationally renowned designer bridal gowns

‘W

er’re so pleased to be on the other side of the pandemic – working in the wedding business for 31 years, we missed having weddings!

Last year was one of our most challenging to date. Due to restrictions, many people couldn’t get married and the majority of weddings were postponed until 2021. So we had a normal year of weddings, plus all the delayed brides. We had to ensure that everyone received the service they expected. Understandably, many clients’ body shapes had changed; many arriving for fittings up to four inches larger than when they ordered the gown, while others had chosen to have a baby. The gowns in our Knightsbridge boutique are couture and, in many cases, the fabrics had already been cut. We remade a lot of dresses, while at the same time delivering all the 2021 and postponed gowns. I’m so proud that we made every single wedding, every single delivery, in a timely manner. For my team and I that was a phenomenal achievement.

Since Brexit, getting fabrics into the country from Europe involves more paperwork and prices – both the shipping and the fabrics have gone up. Suppliers will often only guarantee a price for 12 weeks but when I launch a collection of wedding dresses it’s for a year.

Salaries have risen too: I work with

Caroline’s couture wedding dresses are made to order and crafted by her team of talented technicians

TIMELINE

1991

Caroline establishes her wedding dress company in Esher, Surrey. The London boutique opens three years later

1995

The collection with Jasper Conran launches to great critical acclaim, as does the Bridal Room at Liberty of London

2012

Caroline Castigliano bridalwear launches worldwide; it’s now stocked exclusively in 50 stores around the world

2015

Channel 4 films the documentary How the Rich get Hitched at the Caroline Castigliano Knightsbridge store

2018

Bespoke evening wear, mother-of-the-bride and event wear launches at the Knightsbridge boutique

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‘I WORK WITH THE HIGHEST-LEVEL TECHNICIANS; THEY ARE LITERALLY THE LIFEBLOOD OF THE BUSINESS’ the highest level technicians, and it’s important to look after them because they’re literally the lifeblood of the business. These gowns are complex works of art and there’s nothing like them in terms of how they are created or fit.

I believe that’s a huge part of the brand’s signature. These dresses are a central part of one of the most important days of a woman’s life, so it’s vital that they are truly fabulous.’

Caroline Castigliano, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Caroline had learned to sew by the time she was five years old.

She began her career as an actress, appearing in televised plays and series for the BBC and ITV, as well as in more than 30 television commercials.

3

Her first company, Survival Kit Bodywear, was an activewear range that launched in the 1980s and sold at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus.

4

Caroline is also a television spokesperson who was called on to cover the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales, and the Duke and Duchess of Sussex.

5

She has designed bridal and eveningwear for many celebrities, dignitaries and foreign royals.

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO 154 Brompton Road London SW3 1HX +44 (0)20 7590 9120 carolinecastigliano.com carolinecastigliano

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CHELSEA BARRACKS The complete reconstruction of an historic part of central London

‘T

he redevelopment of the 12.8-acre Chelsea Barracks site is a long-term project.

When I joined the owners Qatari Diar in 2014 the existing military buildings were being demolished. I’ve seen it from being a hole in the ground to what it has become today. The site, probably the most expensive piece of real estate that has been sold in London, was cleared with the exception of the former Garrison Chapel, now converted into an exhibition space

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 for The Prince’s Foundation.

Although predominantly a residential development, Qatari Diar have always been committed to keeping the gardens open to the public. At present, this amounts to 40 percent of the site, comprising mostly the garden squares. I think that the residents want to be connected to the wider local community and the accessibility of the gardens integrates Chelsea Barracks with existing Belgravia. The redevelopment of the site opens up a part of London that has been previously closed to the public for more than 150 years.

The emphasis on quality and celebration of British crafts has been an emphasis throughout this project and is evident at every turn, in the design, in the materials used, and in the craftsmanship displayed. For example, the Victorian iron railings that surround the barracks were restored panel by panel over the course of several years at a foundry in Scotland. The townhouses are rendered in Portland stone and have floors of British oak. Garden designer Jo Thompson was commissioned to add inspiration to the gardens and work with Gustafson Porter + Bowman, making them look approachable and established, as if they’d been in place for many years.

The development of the site will continue as unobtrusively as possible in the coming years, bringing this forgotten quarter of London back to life, and respecting its history while equipping it for the 21st century.’

Chelsea Barracks is the site of a former British Army barracks, which for 150 years was home to regiments from the Household Division, and host to royalty.

2

Forty percent of the site is allocated to seven publicly accessible garden squares, planted with native species, culinary and medicinal plants.

Produce will be given to residents and supply the restaurant.

3

Chelsea Barracks was awarded LEED Platinum status in 2021, making it the most sustainable development in Europe and one of only 16 worldwide to attain this status.

4 5

In 2022, celebrated British jeweller Theo Fennell established his new headquarters in Garrison Square.

The Campaner recently joined Chelsea Barracks, a new eatery from the owners of Martinez restaurant in Barcelona.

From the public spaces to the homes themselves, every aspect of Chelsea Barracks is carefully considered

CHELSEA BARRACKS London SW1W 8PS +44 (0)20 3993 8558 chelseabarracks.com chelseabarracks

Richard Oakes, Executive Director at Qatari Diar responsible for Chelsea Barracks

TIMELINE

2019

After several years of construction, Chelsea Barracks completes its first phase of development, and residents start moving in

2020

Chelsea Barracks unveils 13 new townhouses, reimagined and evolved from the Georgian archetype into superprime 21st century homes

2021

The Prince’s Foundation, HM King Charles’s charity, takes a lease of The Garrison Chapel, and transforms it into a public exhibition space

2022

The Spring Fair launches to celebrate RHS Chelsea Flower Show, along with bi-annual sculpture trails championing grassroots artists

2023

The next phase of Chelsea Barracks, 9 Mulberry Square, will launch this autumn, providing 97 apartments and an additional 32,000 sq/ft

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CHRISTYS’ HATS

The godfather of British hat-making, where craft is key

‘C

hristys’ is a great British hat-maker. We embrace the fact that we are specialists in the hatmaking business and have been since 1773. The best way to move forward is to focus on your strengths so we have spent this year honing our specialism of being hat-makers. We are the best at what we do and work to elevate the brand to become the best of the best. It’s not just about having a great story – you need to have a product that stands up.

Since I joined Christys’ in the summer of 2022, I have been building the right foundations for the brand. All of the assets were in place, it just needed a strategy.

We’re definitely at the start of that journey. This year, we will begin seeing it come to fruition from both a visual and commercial point of view. But we needed to spend time going back to basics. We don’t need to create a whole new, innovative collection.

Christys’ customers want to be part of our history.

We’ ve g ot f ant a s tic craftspeople, some of whom have been working for Christys’ for 40 years. So, we are really embracing them and making sure that we make the most of the talents on our doorstep. If we look after the brand and the people within the brand then that puts us in a healthy place as a business.

We are also celebrating our 250th anniversary in 2023. This comes with a lot of responsibility because, as much as it is about

Christys’ classic styles have found a new generation of fans in the 21st century

TIMELINE

1773

On 1 March Miller Christy and fellow Quaker Joseph Storrs set up a hat-makers in Whitehart Court, London

1850

Prince Albert wears a Christys’ top hat – and popularises the style as an everyday essential for the British gentleman

1960

The Queen Mother visits the Stockport factory, having commissioned miniature hats for Princess Elizabeth’s dolls many years earlier

2011

Department store Liberty acquires Christy & Co and introduces the brand to a new wave of style-conscious hat-wearers

2023

Christys’ celebrates 250 years since its foundation with a special anniversary edition fedora and Panama hat

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‘IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT HAVING A GREAT STORY – YOU NEED TO HAVE A PRODUCT THAT STANDS UP’ implementing growth and change, there’s a huge amount of guardianship. You want to make changes but they need to be the right changes and need to be lasting changes. It’s a challenge but one we are really looking forward to.’

Jonathan Boston, Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Christys’ designed the original ten-gallon hat, which was then licensed to Stetson in 1886 – for which Christys’ received royalties.

2

Christys’ has been official helmet manufacturer of the UK Police Force for over two centuries; all are still made from start to finish in the brand’s factory in Witney, Oxfordshire.

3

Christys’ Homburg hat was worn

by Marlon Brando’s Don Corleone, as was the iconic Adventurer Poet Hat worn by Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones films.

4

Twenty-four separate processes go into the making of a Christys’ felt hat; all carried out by its team of craftsmen and women in the Witney factory.

5

The oldest piece of machinery still in use today in the Christys’ factory is aged 115.

CHRISTYS’ LONDON Unit 7 Witan Park Avenue 2 ,Station Lane, Witney Oxfordshire OX28 4FH +44 (0)1993 770736 christys-hats.com christyshats

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CLIVE CHRISTIAN FURNITURE

Exceptional bespoke kitchens and cabinetry, crafted using the finest materials

‘T

he great thing about the last couple of years is that, as a business, we had the time to step back and look internally at what we could improve and do better, as we adjust to a new post-pandemic world.

For instance, we rearranged our factory layout to drive efficiency, and analysed the suppliers and materials we use to see how we can be more sustainable in our approach.

In the last 12 months we’ve launched two new collections, which, for us, is almost unheard of. Clive Christian Furniture is renowned for a very classical, timeless approach and some of our collections have been around as mainstays for decades – which means that the need to bring new products to fruition is not always there. We launched an outdoor collection, “Garden Kitchen”, which we’re exceptionally proud of. It’s a bit left-field but outdoor was a massive category that was missing from our product portfolio. Then we launched “Opus”, which is more minimalist in its styling than anyone would expect.

It has been exciting to see an influx of new, younger craftspeople coming from apprenticeships and joining the team. To see them flourish and create top quality products is nice to see. As a managing director it’s very fulfilling. A general concern we share with those in our industry is the decline in volume of skilled craftspeople and talent; manufacturing products in a factory by hand is a real dying art and not having enough people interested in learning these skills is a challenge we all face.

For 2023, our biggest challenge – and it’s a good one to have – is that we’re launching our new flagship showroom in Fulham. We haven’t had a showroom in London for over five years and we’ve missed having boots-on-the-ground visibility to the retail and customer market.’

Phil Cole, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1978

The Clive Christian Furniture workshop opens in the north of England – first to be made is the Victoria Kitchen

2018

The brand is recognised for its significance in the luxury industry and HRH The Princess Royal visits the workshop

2021

The brand expands its product range to include the ‘Garden Kitchen’, its first-ever outdoor collection

2022

Clive Christian Furniture launches its first contemporary collection, ‘Opus’, engineered to be more sustainable

2023

The company opens a London townhouse showroom in Fulham, its largest in the world

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Clive Christian Furniture is known for creating the world’s most opulent, statement kitchens.

The brand’s first outdoor kitchen, the Garden Kitchen, was created by Head of Design, Oliver Deadman, and was inspired by the decking of classical wooden boats and yachts.

3

Since its foundation, Clive Christian Furniture has made every item in Lancashire. It has showrooms in the US, Europe and Asia.

4 5

Clive Christian Furniture is for every room in the home, producing more whole-home designs than just kitchens.

Every Clive Christian Furniture room starts with a handdrawn sketch.

CLIVE CHRISTIAN FURNITURE St Germain Street Farnworth, Bolton Lancashire BL4 7BG +44 (0)1204 702200 clivechristianfurniture.com clivechristianfurnitureco

‘IT HAS BEEN EXCITING TO SEE AN INFLUX OF YOUNGER CRAFTSPEOPLE JOINING THE TEAM’

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Clive Christian Furniture’s bespoke designs are all made by hand in the north of England

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COLE & SON Innovative, beautifully crafted wallpapers and printed fabrics

‘T

he passion of the team and their focus on keeping going when things get tough is what helps us as a brand overcome challenges. We launched two collections during 2020 despite the pandemic: “Seville”, and our beloved collaboration with the Historical Royal Palaces. This was followed in 2021 by “Ardmore – Jabula” and then this year, “The Gardens”. It’s really beautiful: the team spent almost six months hand-painting to achieve the intricacy and the correct colours of each design. It’s been very successful for us and we’re immensely proud of it.

We also collaborated with Stella McCartney on a collection, which pushed us as a brand to be more sustainable. Our designs are “more is more” but our product is “less is more” because you don’t wallpaper every day. It’s something that lives in a home for many years so what we offer is already sustainable in that sense.

We developed a new substrate base for our wallpaper using 79 percent renewable fibre and we’re looking at moving more of our products over to this base in the future.

In the contract market, we have seen many projects where our designs are beautifying spaces around the world, from hotels to theatres and even an opera house in Cairo. Our close connection to architects and the interior design community is vital for our brand;

Cole & Son’s wallpapers and fabrics feature beautiful hand drawn designs

TIMELINE

1875

Cole & Son is founded in north London, in a vibrant hub of more than 190 block printing companies

1959

The brand’s much-loved and recognised ‘Woods’ wallpaper design launches to great success

1961

The company receives the Royal Warrant as a supplier of wallpaper to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

2019

Cole & Son branches out into textiles with the release of ‘The Contemporary Collection – Fabrics’

2022

The head office moves to a beautiful 19th century building in Chelsea, where the first London flagship store opens in 2023

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‘THE PASSION OF THE TEAM AND THEIR FOCUS ON KEEPING GOING HELPS US OVERCOME CHALLENGES’ we wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for them and our clients.

I think the same challenges we faced at the beginning of 2022 will continue this year because of the geopolitical uncertainty.

It’s something that is out of our control. All we can do is count on the ability and talent of our teams to strengthen our global position in luxury goods.’

Marie Karlsson, Creative and Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1

In the early 20th century, Cole & Son’s founder pioneered printing techniques still in use today, such as flocking that imitates velvet and the use of mica to imitate silk.

2 3

The company has over 2,000 handcrafted blocks in its archive.

During the mid-20th century Cole & Son’s Fitzrovia showroom hosted Britain’s elite, with a record seven duchesses visiting in a singular day to choose their bespoke wall coverings.

4

‘Elephant toenail’ was the nickname given to an ingredient called ‘gum tragacanth’ which Cole & Son often uses in block printing to give a watercolour effect.

5

The blocks used for printing were evacuated to Norfolk during the Second World War due to their historical importance.

COLE & SON 3 Jubilee Place London SW3 3TD +44 (0)20 8442 8844 cole-and-son.com cole_and_son_wallpapers

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THE CONRAN SHOP The home of iconic designs and future classics

‘T

he recent global challenges shook some of the core aspects of retail and created severe challenges for the entire industry. So, I am incredibly proud of my leadership team and colleagues across the business for tackling these, coming together and massively shifting the way we operate and adopting an obsession with the customer to meet their new needs and ways of living. This has provided us with a strong foundation and given us the confidence to move forward.

In the last year, we’ve worked incredibly hard to ensure visitors to our physical stores have an

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DID YOU KNOW?

elevated experience, including engaging window installations, heightened customer service, an immensely curated product edit, and relevant in-store events.

Essential in today’s world, we’ve also developed our ecommerce capabilities, with a heightened focus on digital channels, elevating our customer journey and storytelling.

Additionally, we’ve recently launched our wholesale strategy, which has helped us commercially and fuelled brand awareness.

The pressure of running a healthy business in an increasingly uncertain market, with geopolitical uncertainty and political and financial instability everywhere, means taking a proactive approach. It’s now our absolute priority to keep adjusting to ever-changing customer trends. This means ensuring our brand’s desirability and putting the customer at the forefront of everything we do. This year is an important one for The Conran Shop as we celebrate our 50th anniversary with events, exclusive launches, and projects throughout the 12 months.

Another core focus has always been – and always will be – the product. Our buying and production teams are constantly looking for the latest and most exciting new pieces to add to our carefully curated edit of design classics and future collectables, including our own-brand range, which is growing by the season. Finally, I’m incredibly excited that 2023 will see us launch new stores and wholesale partners internationally.’

1 2

The duvet was relatively unknown in the UK until the early 1960s, when Sir Terence brought one back from Sweden.

Pablo Picasso liked one of Sir Terence’s chair designs so much that he ordered two for his studio. While considering it an honour, Sir Terence always regretted accepting cash instead of couple of sketches.

3 4

The Conran Shop’s Left Bank Parisian home was designed

by Gustave Eiffel, the engineer behind the Eiffel Tower.

During an episode of the popular BBC sitcom Ab Fab, Edina and Patsy moved into The Conran Shop’s Chelsea windows and asked Sir Terence to redecorate for them.

5

Briefed by BA to ‘make the best plane in the world even better,’ Sir Terence once redesigned the interior of Concorde.

THE CONRAN SHOP MARYLEBONE 55 Marylebone High Street London W1U 5HS +44 (0)20 7723 2223 conranshop.com theconranshopofficial

The Conran Shop has been leading British design since the 1970s

Peter Jenkins, CEO

TIMELINE

1973

The first Conran Shop opens on London’s Fulham Road, marking the start of Brompton Cross’s regeneration

1983

Sir Terence Conran receives a knighthood for services to British design and retail. Twenty years later he accepts the Prince Philip Designers Prize

1987

The Conran Shop relocates to François Espinasse’s Art Nouveau ‘Michelin House’ building.

Ten years later a second store opens in Marylebone

1992

The Conran Shop opens its Paris store, and in 1994 the first of many stores in Tokyo opens. In 2019 the first of two stores opens in South Korea

2020

British entrepreneur Javad Marandi OBE buys the business and months later the pioneering Sir Terence passes away at 88

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COOMBE FARM ORGANIC

Online organic butcher producing the finest grass-fed meat in the Somerset countryside

‘O

ur purpose is to champion organic farming and how it benefits nature, while also providing the most delicious food for our customers to enjoy. Farming gets a bad rap for damaging the environment but everything we do on the farm is about boosting biodiversity.

It has been a difficult time for farmers generally, from supply chain challenges to weather issues affecting crops, but we are as selfsufficient as possible. Although the cost of artificial fertiliser has tripled over the past year, we make our own using natural methods like composting manure. We also grow 97 percent of our own animal feed, so we’re protected from price rises, and we generate our own energy with solar panels.

We offer our customers the highest quality products, and provide real value for money.

Our most popular products are our range of meatboxes, and we keep introducing delicious new products to try. We launched three exciting products this year: a premium range of steaks that are dry-aged for 35 days; organic pies; and organic rose veal. As a meat, veal has bad connotations but ours is free-range (we’re one of only two farms in the UK to sell it) and we’ve worked with chefs Ed Smith and Honey & Co to create inspiring recipes. All our products

Coombe Farm sells its organic meat, game and fish direct to customers via its website

TIMELINE

1999

The Coombe Farm dairy converts to organic, attaining official Soil Association certification

2015

Meat box business Coombe Farm Organic is founded and starts supplying local customers and restaurants

2020

The company launches its retired dairy beef range to make the most of the dairy herd when they finish their milking lives

2021

Coombe Farm Organic wins the Best Organic Box Scheme at the BOOM awards, which celebrates organic excellence

2022

The company introduces its own chicken flock and rose veal herd, working with chefs on exclusive recipes

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‘FARMING GETS A BAD RAP FOR DAMAGING THE ENVIRONMENT BUT EVERYTHING WE DO IS ABOUT BOOSTING BIODIVERSITY’ are available with nationwide next day delivery in fully recyclable packaging.

We’re continuing to challenge the perception that meat is bad for the environment. We don’t disagree that industrial agriculture can be destructive and polluting but organic farming is the antithesis of that – not all meat is equal. What people forget is that grass-fed organic meat is incredibly nutritious so we encourage customers to eat less, but better.’

Jemima Marks, Sales Manager

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Organic farms support 50 percent more wildlife than non-organic farms and 75 percent more wild bees.

Coombe Farm Organic sells over 350 nose-to-tail products so that no part of the animal is wasted; these include pork trotters, marrow bones and chicken hearts.

3 4

The farm has won two rare and coveted three-star Great Taste awards for its organic leg of lamb and whole organic goose.

Coombe Farm only uses natural resources to fertilise its fields.

These include manure composted from animals, and crops such as clover and legumes that naturally enrich soil with nitrogen.

5

Organic meat contains more omega-3, amino acids and healthy fats than non-organic meat.

COOMBE FARM ORGANIC Coombe Farm Roundham, Crewkerne Somerset TA18 8RR +44 (0)1460 279509 coombefarmorganic.co.uk coombefarmorg

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COZE

Exquisite monogrammed linens

‘O

ur luxury brand, Coze introduced several new collections in 2022, including a hooded baby towel, monogrammed cashmere and merino cardigan robes – all of which are perfect for gifting. We also launched a stunning table linen range which has been incredibly popular. Our bestselling marble tray is now also available in taupe, which has aligned nicely with the earthy palette that we have seen emerge over the last couple of years, although we tend to focus on designs with longevity.

Our biggest challenge, yet one that we love, is the ability to keep innovating and offering collections that not only sit well in our customers’ homes but also stand the test of time. Earthy palettes and natural textures inspire much of our sourcing; it’s not about lots of pattern and colour but more the textures of materials in their raw form.

I am so proud of the space we created for Savills Salon at Masterpiece 2022, which featured our herringbone Sapporo blanket and Asana marble tray. However, turning round a showcase like this with all the manufacturing and shipping delays was not easy, and we worked flat out to make it happen. We’ve managed to keep almost all our stock consistent throughout 2022 – although we’ve found that when a new collection is launched it surpasses all our previous expectations of demand by ten-fold.

For early 2023, we have some

exciting new product launches including a collection of alpaca wool bouclé throw blankets. Layering textured blankets over a sofa or bed adds texture and depth to a home, creating an interesting, peaceful space. The versatility of the throws also means that they can also be used as luxurious warm blankets.

The bouclé effect offers comfort and is incredibly soft to the touch.’

Coze’s linens enable you to have all the luxury of a five-star hotel in the comfort of your own home

Sophie Paterson, interior designer and collaborator with Coze

TIMELINE

2016

Coze is established by the Roston brothers, the fourth generation of a family of textile experts.

Their great-grandfather started in 1897

2019

Coze begins working with interior designer Sophie Paterson and introduces a bespoke monogram collection to add a layer of luxury to the brand

2020

As bricks-and-mortar businesses struggle during the pandemic, Coze’s online sales grow by more than 200 percent

2021

Coze Kids, a range of personalised gifting options for children, is added to the brand, alongside a fringed cushion collection

2022

The company continues to work in partnership with interior designers who choose monogram products as a finishing touch to their projects

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Coze’s parent company has been in business since 1979, supplying prestigious hotels including The Dorchester, The Ritz and Gleneagles in Scotland.

2

Guests staying at these hotels began asking where they could purchase the linens to recreate five-star luxury in their own homes – this was the beginning of Coze.

3

Customers can choose from over 18 monogram styles and 13 colourways; in addition, Coze is able to embroider family crests or logos.

4

Coze’s best-selling collections are the Monogrammed Suru Cushions filled with luxurious duck feathers, as well as towelling, blankets and luxury cotton bed linen.

5

Coze has become the ultimate go-to for unique gifting and sells a range of monogrammed adult and baby robes, hooded towels, and monogrammed statement cushions.

COZE Suite 170 Catalyst House 720 Centennial Court Centennial Park, Elstree Hertfordshire WD6 3SY cozelinen.com coze_linen

‘OUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE, YET ONE THAT WE LOVE, IS THE ABILITY TO KEEP INNOVATING’

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CROCKETT & JONES

The heritage family-run English shoemaker

‘C

rockett & Jones stands for the quality of our materials and construction.

A pair of our classic Oxford-style shoes is as good today as it was over a decade ago. The more we build on our core strengths the more we’re recognised in the market. However, like most brands, we’re facing supply chain disruption and price rises and are still not back to normal.

Luckily, during lockdown we took the important step of rebuilding our website and converted a building to house our new e-commerce department.

We’ve built the European business steadily for 30 years. Japan’s a big market and we’ve been gradually growing in Hong Kong, Australia, Bangkok, Singapore and China. Today we’ve got a strong, loyal, global customer base, with shoe fanatics prepared to spend over £500 on a pair of shoes, though ours are as sensibly priced as possible, regularly attracting multiple purchases.

There’s a subtle balance between moving with the times and not losing our Englishness.

Over the last ten years, the athletic, casual look has taken over and sneakers became such a market force that people thought they’d threaten the shoe industry. But we knew there would always be enough customers for our quality shoes so we gained by standing firm.

Having said that, post-Covid and with global warming and hotter offices, there’s an even bigger trend away from formal menswear. So, we’ve developed more relaxed loafers with flexible soles and softer linings, which have been very successful online and will be in stores from spring. We’re also making more casual boots with a cleated rubber sole, as well matched with denim as with a woollen suit.

Today our e-commerce is thriving and we have 13 stores around the world, and many more stockists to boot, but customers love shopping in our stores for our knowledgeable staff and excellent service.’

‘A PAIR OF OUR CLASSIC OXFORD STYLE SHOES IS AS GOOD TODAY AS IT WAS OVER A DECADE AGO’

Jonathan Jones, CEO

TIMELINE

1879

Crockett & Jones founded in Northampton

by Charles Jones and Sir James Crockett, producing men’s boots

1924

The Duke of York (later George VI) visits the factory and the brand is honoured with Royal Patronage

1990

The brand receives the Queen’s Award for Export Achievement, at the Silver Jubilee of the Queen’s Award Scheme

1997

Crockett & Jones’s first retail store opens on Jermyn Street, the home of menswear in London

2017

In April 2017 Crockett & Jones is proudly awarded a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales, now Charles III

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Sir Ernest Shackleton wore Crockett & Jones footwear for the second time on his Endurance Expedition, which was famously stranded in the Antarctic.

2 3

Crockett & Jones produced three million pairs of boots and shoes for World War I.

In 2012, Crockett & Jones supplied four styles to the Bond film Skyfall, then all the footwear for Spectre in 2015, resulting in a 2020 official partnership with EON Productions for No Time to Die.

4

Crockett & Jones is the largest employer in North Northamptonshire with over 300 factory and operations staff based at its Perry Street, Northampton factory.

5

Today, Crockett & Jones produces more than 100,000 pairs of shoes or boots a year.

CROCKETT & JONES 92 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6JE +44 (0)20 7839 5239 crockettandjones.com crockettandjones_official

Crockett & Jones’s traditional Goodyear-welted shoes and boots are going from strength to strength, almost 150 years after the brand was founded

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GBB 2023 —— ACTING

theLIST

13 Future Stars of Stage & Screen British film magazine Screen International knows good talent when they see it. Curated by its chief critic, FIONNUALA HALLIGAN

Ambika may have landed the lead role of Emma in Netflix’s adaptation of David Nicholls’ One Day, but she was turned down for every acting role at university. She received rave reviews too for her role of junior doctor Shruti in hit BBC drama This Is Going To Hurt.

4

ISIS HAINSWORTH, 24

At 18, Isis took one of the leads in the West End transfer of Our Ladies Of Perpetual Succour.

Perhaps because she did not receive drama school training, she says her process is ‘very instinctual – I lock myself away and try things in different ways’.

2

LOUIS PARTRIDGE, 19

Louis is known to millions of Netflix viewers as the floppy-haired young Viscount Tewkesbury opposite Millie Bobby Brown in teen-detective adventure flick Enola Holmes – a casting that has helped him garner 8.9 million followers on Instagram.

5

ROSY MCEWEN, 28

At 28, Rosy has scored her first lead role in a feature film: Georgia Oakley’s Blue Jean as a lesbian basketball teacher in 1980s Newcastle.

‘I want to be that actor that people [say], “She’s great,” but no-one recognises you walking down the street.’

3

LAURYN AJUFO, 22

Lauded by Boiling Point’s lead, Stephen Graham, as ‘one of the most exciting young talents I’ve had the joy to work with’, Brit School graduate Lauryn will be seen this year in Luther the film and Netflix series The F*ck It Bucket.

6

SOLLY MCLEOD, 30

Solly landed the title role in prestige miniseries Tom Jones, aired late last year. He admires the varied careers of Stephen Graham, Tom Hardy and Jodie Comer. ‘I would love to keep exploring. I’ll try everything until I find something that I’m like, “I can’t do that.”’

PHOTOS: PETER SEARLE

1

AMBIKA MOD, 27

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7

JACOB FORTUNELLOYD, 35

Jacob has enjoyed a career whirlwind since his role as a chess-playing journalist in The Queen’s Gambit. In the last year or so alone, he has shot Pathé’s The Three Musketeers; Searchlight Pictures’ See How They Run; and whodunnit series Bodies for Netflix.

PHOTOS: PETER SEARLE

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8

YASMIN FINNEY, 19

Yasmin was still in sixth-form when she read on Instagram that Netflix series Heartstopper was seeking to cast a black trans teen girl in a prominent role. In rapid succession she landed the part, and a career that has now seen her join the cast of beloved BBC series Doctor Who.

PRIYA KANSARA, 25

Up until March 2021, Priya was working for a pharmaceutical company, attending acting classes at London’s Identity School of Acting in the evenings and sneaking off to auditions whenever she could. Fast forward to 2022 and she was starring in Nida Manzoor’s debut feature Polite Society for Working Title/Focus Features. ‘Acting is all I ever wanted to do,’ says Priya.

12

9

LIZZIE ANNIS, 19

Starring opposite Amy Adams in The Glass Menagerie in 2021 was something of a gamechanger for Lizzie, who has cerebral palsy. ‘In the last five years, it feels as though the industry has become engaged, and we’re seeing more stories come through that have previously been hidden.’

HARRY TREVALDWYN, 28

In 2021, while shooting Netflix comedy feature The Bubble for director Judd Apatow, Harry found himself ducking out between set-ups to take care of his side hustle, online tutoring. Harry need not have worried: since then, roles have poured in. He finds himself drawn to comedy that ‘can provide release and joy’, but also ‘can show you so much about the world’.

13

10

JAMIE FLATTERS, 22

Jamie was only 16 when his life changed completely: James Cameron called to offer him the role of Neteyam, in the Avatar sequels. As for his career, he says he would ‘love to follow Tilda Swinton’s career path, collaborating with a lot of new writers and directors’.

JORDEN MYRIE, 28

Having learned his craft at the Television Workshop in Nottingham, Jorden landed two prominent TV roles. ITV’s Stephen, about the murder of Stephen Lawrence, saw him play younger brother Stuart and BBC Three’s Mood, in contrast, showed Myrie in more romantic guise. ‘Acting is about telling the truth,’ he says.

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GBB 2023 —— C

CROW AND JESTER

Original British bespoke tailoring for the shooting field and country life

‘F

rom the moment I left college, I was fiercely focused on starting my own brand. I was fortunate that, immediately after leaving, I was able to secure a £3,000 loan from The Prince’s Youth Business Trust and then, due to a unique set of circumstances, I got my break working in the R. Newbold factory in Derby, a fine Grade II-listed building, producing collections for Sir Paul Smith and Oswald Boateng.

It was an exceptional opportunity to learn the trade, make my name and develop the Crow and Jester brand.

It was there that I became obsessed with perfection and quality.

Fashion is often trend-led, but I think when it’s driven by personality it becomes more interesting – it’s then an individual’s take on fashion.

I’m a very emotive designer and my personality comes across in my designs. My collections tend to be bright and fun, which injects a unique take into country tweed and its styling.

I’ve had ups and downs in my career – the 2008 financial crash was the lowest point – however, in 2016, I became involved with Chester King, whose family owned Stoke Park. Through him, I began my collaboration with E.J. Churchill, which marked the start of the country and sporting collections that put us on the map. This success has resulted in my being

TIMELINE

1997

Crow and Jester founded

by Simon Horsley. During this period Simon also worked at R. Newbold in Derby, owned by Sir Paul Smith

2000

Crow and Jester opens its first store in Hockley, Nottingham, in the original Jesse Boots building, original home of the iconic pharmacy

2003

Crow and Jester collections are now stocked in luxury retailers throughout the UK, including Harrods

2006

Designed, measured, and made over 250 outfits for Team Wales at the Commonwealth Games in Melbourne, who were voted Best Dressed Team

2018

Crow and Jester designs a collection of shooting attire in collaboration with fellow great British brand E.J. Churchill

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‘WHEN FASHION IS DRIVEN

BY PERSONALITY IT BECOMES MORE INTERESTING’ commissioned to make estate tweeds for clients including the Belvoir Castle estate.

The business has now come full circle: as the bespoke element is becoming increasingly in demand, I am reintroducing a ready-to-wear range to widen our reach. This year, we will be opening a showroom in the Midlands countryside.

Its beautiful, rural location will enable me to spend more time with my clients in our Crow and Jester environment, as opposed to travelling across the country with my sketchbook and fabric samples.’

Simon Horsley, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The name Crow and Jester comes from the two sides of Simon’s personality: the introvert and the extrovert. Simon wanted to create a brand driven by individuals’ personalities, not trends.

2

Simon graduated in 1993 in fashion design from Chesterfield College of Technology and Art and Derby College, which is revered in the world of fashion for the quality of its teaching.

3

In Simon’s early career, he was given the opportunity to build the Crow and Jester brand within the R. Newbold factory in Derby, also producing shirt collections for a variety of well-known brands.

4

Crow and Jester provides personal tailoring consultations for bespoke designs and readyto-wear garments, all handcrafted by experienced tailors and seamstresses whom the company has worked with since 1997.

5 Crow and Jester offers an individualistic take on traditional country tweeds

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Crow and Jester celebrated 25 years of business success in 2022.

CROW AND JESTER +44 (0)330 123 9077 crowandjester.co.uk crowandjester

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GBB 2023 —— D

DALE ROGERS AMMONITE World leaders in rare fossils, decorative minerals and exquisite crystals

‘N

early 40 years ago, travel was the initial driving force behind Dale’s fossil, crystal and mineral collection.

Today, we have a worldclass range of specimens, built-up thanks to our sources all over the world, from Canada to India and Brazil, who contact us when they find the very best pieces. For us, logistics have been the hardest challenge recently. The cost of getting materials into the country has, in some cases, quadrupled and, at the same time, service has fallen off the cliff – it’s a changed industry.

Despite that, in the last year we have put together some phenomenal collections, including a stone called labradorite from Madagascar, which is affected by diffraction of light. When the light hits the stone and rebounds, it causes iridescence of all these vivid shades of blue and green.

Many visitors to our Pimlico gallery say it looks like it has been lit from within but it’s completely natural.

That collection, which is one of the best in the world, was a stand-out moment. We also have a selection of Mexican fluorites, a very popular crystal for us; it’s a stone that has wonderful bands of green, blue and purple running through it.

A big dream project for Dale, which has been in the making for nearly three years and is nearly at completion, is building a property in

Dale Rogers Ammonite has one of the world’s finest collections of natural art

TIMELINE

1986

Dale Rogers’ love of fossils begins in Tangier. He discovers a 350 million-year-old shell bed – and the collection was born

2000

After years with a stall on Portobello Road, the brand’s first proper London showroom opens in Kensal Green

2007

Dale Rogers opens his flagship gallery on Pimlico Road that continues to be the company’s main hub today

2009

The company opens a private appointment warehouse in north-west London, housing the largest collection of fine natural art in the UK

2012

Dale Rogers presents ‘The Atlas Medusa’, arguably the finest Ammonite fossil ever found worldwide

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‘WE HAVE PUT TOGETHER SOME PHENOMENAL COLLECTIONS INCLUDING A STONE CALLED LABRADORITE FROM MADAGASCAR’ Essex around the specimens. It was an old granary barn that has been reimagined, not just with fossils, crystals and natural art in mind but also his own personal collection of marine antiques. It has an amazing juxtaposition of submarine-themed interiors alongside fossils and crystals; it’s very wacky, very Dale and off the wall. It will likely be open by private appointment for our top clients who want the full experience of being surrounded by monolithic, architectural pieces.’

Luke Garwood, General Manager

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Dale Rogers Ammonite is one of the few dealers in the world specialising in every genre of natural art, from fine minerals and museum-grade fossils to crystals.

2 3

Some of the brand’s fossils date back 500 million years, while the meteorites are billions of years old.

Dale Rogers Ammonite pieces have appeared in some of the biggest film franchises, including Jurassic Park and Alien, as well as on the catwalk next to Kate Moss.

4

They are a family run business who have been collecting for 37 years, with plans to continue to the tradition for the next 37 and beyond.

5

Dale Rogers Ammonite supplies some of the world’s finest super yacht designers and interior designers, from Bannenberg & Rowell and Terence Tisdale to Rose Uniacke.

DALE ROGERS AMMONITE 77 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8PH +44 (0)20 7881 0592 dalerogersammonite.com dale_rogers_ammonite

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GBB 2023 —— D

DAVID HUNT LIGHTING

Classic lighting from a 300-year-old brand with a forward-thinking sensibility

‘W

e are an historic company that has successfully evolved with the times. One of our biggest strengths is that we are British manufacturers of mainly domestic lighting. We design in-house, manufacture in the Cotswolds, and our market is mainly the UK. So Brexit hasn’t impacted us as much as it has others.

Our component supply chain is small and local – some within an hour of the workshop.

I strongly believe you can create traditional pieces with a contemporary twist. As a business we need to move forward, but without losing our history and tradition. The natural world has been a big inspiration for us, with our antler collection among our best-known designs. We also have lovely pieces inspired by willow, rattan weave, laurel and gingko leaf.

We’re based in a small rural community, so attracting the younger generation into manufacturing is a big challenge. Every product goes through around 17 pairs of hands, so a shortage in the workforce can affect the whole production schedule. We run a training programme that takes apprentices right through the business, to try and inspire them towards design crafts.

Working with electrical goods, we’re already at a slight disadvantage when it comes to sustainability. But people need lighting, so it’s up to us to make it sustainable. The industry has brought about substantial changes to lamp wattage, and we’re constantly considering our footprint throughout the product lifecycle. We’ve adapted our packaging but there’s a balance to be struck, because if a fragile light is damaged, having it returned for a rework needlessly increases your carbon footprint.

We are passionate about this traditional business – many of us have worked together for a long time and don’t want to see these skill sets dying out. As a small business, looking after our own, supporting local livelihoods, is really important to us.’

‘AS A BUSINESS WE NEED TO MOVE FORWARD, BUT WITHOUT LOSING OUR

Hollie Moreland, Creative Director

HISTORY AND TRADITION’

TIMELINE

1687

The earliest family member on record, John Hunt, was born.

He crafted fine brass candlesticks

1851

David Hunt Lighting was selected to exhibit its lighting products at Prince Albert’s Great Exhibition in Hyde Park

1930

The David Hunt factory, then based in Birmingham, transitioned from using gas to using electric lighting

1960

The current David Hunt factory was established in Shipston On Stour on the northern edge of the Cotswolds

2019

David Hunt Lighting opens its first public showroom at the Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour in London

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David Hunt Lighting makes timeless designs with a modern twist

DID YOU KNOW?

1

John Hunt was actually a master brass founder who made beautiful ornate candlesticks in the brass foundry in Birmingham in the 1600s, during the reign of James II.

2 3

The eldest son of every generation of the Hunt family has been called John.

Creative director Hollie Moreland began her career at David Hunt Lighting as an intern alongside Peter John Hunt, tenth generation of the family and ex Lighting Industry Association President.

4

The Art Deco designs of David Hunt Lighting were installed in the very first Odeon cinemas in the 1930s, becoming a key feature of the dramatic maritime-inspired lobbies.

5

In 2022, over 30km of braided cable was used during the manufacturing of pendant lights.

DAVID HUNT LIGHTING Tilemans Lane Shipston-on-Stour CV36 4HP +44 (0)1295 672628 or London +44 (0)20 7349 8111 davidhuntlighting.co.uk davidhuntlighting

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GBB 2023 —— D

DAVIDSON

Family-run luxury furniture brand going global

‘T

he last few years has taught me more about business than I have learnt in my whole life.

It has been a roller coaster, with a lot of highs and a hell of a lot of lows thrown in for good measure.

As an eternal optimist, I like to look back to articulate really clearly in my head what I did well and what I didn’t. I know I learn at my best through experience rather than textbooks, so I like to draw positives from such challenging times and really cement it in my head how I believe I handled things .

Our vision has always been to be the industry’s most influential leader of British luxury furniture. We strive to design exceptional and unforgettable pieces for today’s highly sophisticated customer but to do that you need a strong strategy, the right team and good resources to hand. Our experience in the pandemic has strengthened all of those areas within our business. We have a plan for everything, we cultivated an incredible team and we have really made space to allow good design to come to the forefront of our collections.

On reflection, we survived the last few years well. We built a strong marketing team, which was one of our best decisions. We also really invested in our digital presence, which has helped us hugely with our overseas clients. It also helped us to not be so dependent on having a showroom.

This year is all about building the business safely and positively. We have so much to be grateful for: we survived a global pandemic and have come out of it with a ton of resilience. We have plans for New York early this year and hopefully Los Angeles towards the end of it. It’s an exciting time for the brand.’

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Claudia Davidson, Matthew Hepburn, Alexandra Davidson, Richard Davidson, Deirdre Davidson

Alexandra Davidson, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1986

The brand is founded

by Richard and Deirdre Davidson

2004

Davidson opens its showroom in the Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour

2011

Youngest daughter, Claudia Davidson, joins the business

2012

Eldest daughter, Alexandra Davidson,made Managing Director

2019

Davidson’s collection of fitted cabinetry launches

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Founder and Design Director Richard Davidson’s passion for great design was seeded during his career as an antiques dealer.

2

Although Davidson is a thought-leader in British design now, the brand started by dealing antiques and making reproductions of classic pieces.

3 4 5

By 2012, Richard and Deirdre had both their daughters in the business.

Managing Director, Alexandra Davidson, is the eldest daughter of Richard and Deirdre Davidson.

The “Wanderlust Collection” was conceptualised, manufactured and launched in lockdown 2020, solely with digital collaborations.

DAVIDSON 116a First Floor, Centre Dome Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour London SW10 0XE +44 (0)20 7751 5537 davidsonlondon.com davidsonlondon

‘WE STRIVE TO DESIGN EXCEPTIONAL AND UNFORGETTABLE PIECES FOR TODAY’S HIGHLY SOPHISTICATED CUSTOMER’

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GBB 2023 —— D

DEIRDRE DYSON

A new collection of graphics-inspired heirloom-quality handmade rugs

‘L

ast year’s “All at Sea” theme has been wildly admired and people who’ve bought rugs have rarely changed a single colour. Indeed, I’ve been told that the carpets have sometimes inspired an emotional response.

The 2023 carpet collection, “Angles” is in complete contrast to my last watery blue sea-inspired collection. This collection’s graphic without any curves. It’s a very eye-catching departure for me and I’ve enjoyed working within the design limitation of straight lines. Though the strict theme was challenging, I made quick progress with my pad, pencil, ruler and set square.

Last year was not a marvellous year, but an interesting one, maybe because my subject was more figurative than abstract. I’ve been travelling to the Paris gallery a few days a month, where selling is still tough. Breaking into a new market is always a challenge and carpets are not an everyday purchase for anyone! However, the Parisians love the work and the French are more attuned to art in general, partly because of their history of Impressionistic painting and because Paris is full of little shops having exhibitions of art and craft.

I’m always defined as an artist.

I decided to do some paintings of the “Angles” collection, which developed into a range

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Clarity rug; Hover rug; Energy rug; Airborne and Staccato rugs

of artworks including previous designs. An interested art dealer has suggested I exhibit them at a Mayfair gallery in March 2023, which is exciting.

Recently we’ve had a lot of interest from the United States and because of their bigger houses they need larger carpets, so that’s been a great bonus.

Meanwhile, our wonderful handweavers in Nepal have continued producing steadily, which is amazing considering so much of their country was devastated by the 2015 earthquake.

I love what I do and it’s so exciting when each carpet arrives from Nepal. It’s a joy for the team and me to see the finished product realised in wool and silk.’

Deirdre Dyson, founder

TIMELINE

1997

Unable to find modern carpets she likes, Deirdre Dyson designs one at the suggestion of carpet dealer Richard Ringrose, leading to her first collection for sale

2000

Deirdre takes over the company and establishes Deirdre Dyson as an independent brand. Her artwork is developed into beautifully hand-crafted carpets

2015

Deirdre Dyson publishes her book Walking on Art and reopens her London gallery, redesigned by architect Timothy Hatton

2020

Deirdre Dyson opens her Paris gallery in Rue des Saints-Pères, created by celebrated interior designer Remi Tessier to best showcase the luxurious rugs

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‘I’VE BEEN TOLD THAT THE CARPETS HAVE SOMETIMES INSPIRED AN EMOTIONAL RESPONSE’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Deirdre Dyson trained in fine art and graphics, has had solo exhibitions in New York and London, and is still painting.

Deirdre is a trained singer and early in her career she created illustrations for a regular column in Vogue.

In a hand-knotted Deirdre Dyson carpet there are a hundred handmade individual knots in the area the size of a postage stamp.

4

Graded carpets are a particular challenge.

Deirdre’s most recent design includes 24 colours and measures a staggering 12m in length!

5

Every selected colour used in Deirdre’s hand-knotted carpets is perfectly matched by its Nepalese dye master.

DEIRDRE DYSON CARPETS LTD. 554 King’s Road London SW6 2DZ +44 (0)20 7384 4464 deirdredyson.com deirdredysonrugs

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GBB 2023 —— D

DR SEBAGH

The pioneering cosmetic doctor and ageing-maintenance skincare company has a new London headquarters

‘W

e’re excited to have purchased Chandos House, an historic 18th century building in London, which will be home to both the skincare company and the new clinic. Our team of architects and builders worked with English Heritage, the Georgian Society and Westminster Council, to source the perfect suppliers for the renovation. Education has always been important to us, and we will continue to build on this, hosting more events about the science behind skincare ingredients, for example.

Melissa [John, co-owner] and I are always looking to the future and new techniques.

The PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) ‘Vampire Facelift’ is famous, but I have begun performing a more sophisticated version called PRF (Platelet Rich Fibrin) which transforms plasma into a natural biofiller that offers more vascular growth.

When I started my career, clients in their 40s were worried about ageing but now 18- to 20-yearolds want “beautification”, which is not always healthy. This young generation is hooked on tweaking their faces and I prefer to promote natural bio-fillers as a non-harmful way to do it. Last year too, people were used to staying at home and nervous about being around others in the clinic. International clients who couldn’t visit tried local treatments, with mixed results. The market is so diluted now, with many non-professionals offering treatments. TikTok and Instagram are a concern: the UK has no regulations so someone who perhaps worked as an accountant can take an online

‘AS A BRAND, WE’RE ALWAYS LOOKING TO THE FUTURE AND NEW TECHNOLOGIES’

TIMELINE

1994

Cosmetic facial surgeon Dr Sebagh addresses ageing gradually, pioneering the Botox revolution at his clinics in Paris and London

2004

He creates the concept of face sculpture using a volumising hyaluronic acid, co-created with Juvederm France

2005

Dr Sebagh’s skincare range launches. He creates the first collection of super-serums, designed to be used in different combinations

2010

He pioneers the non-surgical thread lift with Silhouette Soft and continues to refine his renowned ‘soft face lift’ technique

2023

The London clinic relocates to the historic Chandos House, on Queen Anne Street, with state-of -the-art treatment rooms and event spaces

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Dr Sebagh qualified as a cosmetic facial surgeon in 1982 and practised in France and Los Angeles until 1998.

Dr Sebagh has A-list clients including Hollywood stars, top models, royalty, and heads of state.

In the 1990s, Dr Sebagh created the Meaningful Beauty skincare range with Cindy Crawford. It remains one of the more popular US skincare brands.

4

Dr Sebagh and brand co-owner Melissa John established their registered charity, The Mercury Foundation, in 2018. It has supported causes such as The RAF Benevolent Fund and End Hunger UK.

5

Melissa John’s vision for a Dr Sebagh headquarters incorporating the clinic, skincare company and her collection of WWII medals was realised in 2020 with the purchase of Chandos House.

DR SEBAGH Chandos House, 2 Queen Anne St London W1G 9LQ +44 (0)20 7580 3343 drsebagh.com drsebagh

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: A new home for Dr Sebagh will see an evolution in his cutting-edge treatments; the interiors of historic Chandos House

course and supposedly administer Botox, fillers, and use lasers.

We’re fortunate in that, by remaining a small yet internationally renowned company, we don’t have pressure from investors to constantly increase turnover or to launch new products before we’re ready. Instead, we’re able to focus on achieving excellence in research and development, and doing the best for our patients and customers.’

Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh

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IF WOMEN BUILT THE WORLD

We may be in the throes of the fourth technological revolution, but there’s something very wrong at the heart of it: the lack of women. While the metaverse could give us the opportunity to build a truly inclusive and equitable society, it is under threat of repeating the traditional male constructs that dominate our lives in real life. Tahmima Anam argues that to have a fair shot at creating a virtual world that is open for everyone, it must be built by women ILLUSTRATION BY ROSIE HUNTER

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THE METAVERSE —— GBB 2023

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GBB 2023 —— THE METAVERSE

verything I am about to tell you about the world of technology, artificial intelligence and bias can be summed up in one word: Optimus.

Optimus is the name of Elon Musk’s robot, the one that came out in a stuttering dance at the Tesla AI conference last September. Optimus is also the name of a robot in the American toy franchise Transformers, now a five-fi lm series directed by Michael Bay. In the war between humans and robots, Optimus represents the kind, human-friendly side of artificial intelligence, the Autobots.

If you think about it, it’s actually quite a good name, since Optimus, the action figure, is a car that turns into a robot, and Elon’s robot is made by a man who used to make cars and now wants to make robots. Many of the components, like the battery and software parts, are shared between car and robot. But it’s also an apt name because it is 100 percent a stereotypical boy’s toy.

Which brings us to the question: is tech really a means to progress for all of us, or is it mainly driven by the fantasies of men who never got over the coolness of a car that turned into a robot?

The answer is yes and no. There are many things to love about technology. I still remember when I could only speak to my parents in Bangladesh once every two weeks, making an expensive, elaborate phone call and trying to hear their voices through the crackle of the long-distance line. Now, we text several times a day. The closeness of people who are far away, the ability for people anywhere in the world to access knowledge and information, have had profound effects on human connection.

But the narrative around technology, and the reality, are two different things. On the one hand, start-ups promise to disrupt everything.

I get regularly chased around the internet by companies wanting to hack my metabolism, bring frozen meals to my doorstep, teach me German, and make me into an athlete/pianist/ chef. Elon has promised us self-driving taxis by 2024, and NASA has successfully crashed into an asteroid in case one comes anywhere near us.

But having worked at a technology company for the past decade, and sat in board meetings and investment pitches, there is one glaring way in which tech has changed nothing at all: the power, and presence, of women in the workplace. While technology is supposed to be for everyone, it is overwhelmingly made by men. And that is because technology workplaces are overwhelmingly male.

Th is year, it is estimated that large global technology firms will average under 33 percent overall female representation, with only 25 percent in technical roles. We also know that these companies are almost always run by men – led by the trifecta of Elon Musk, Jeff Bezos and Bill Gates. The closest female founder/CEO, in terms of net worth, is Whitney Wolfe Herd, chief executive of Bumble, and her fortunes

are dwarfed by those of her male counterparts.

The problem doesn’t just exist in larger companies, but in the way the industry is funded. In 2021, a banner year for venture capital (VC) investment, only two percent of VC funding went to female-founded companies. Of every £1 of VC investment in the UK, 89p goes to all-male founder teams, 10p to mixed-gender founder teams and less than 1p to all-female founder teams.

Tara Reddy, co-founder of Loveshark, set out to create a gaming platform for Gen-Z girls. ‘Data tells us that Gen-Z girls like gaming just as much as boys do – in fact, 84 percent of teenage girls prefer gaming to shopping,’ she tells me. Yet games are overwhelmingly made for boys, with the content created by male game developers. When Reddy set out to change that, she was met with scepticism. When pitching for investment, nine out of ten investors would be men, and ‘they would consider [the] business niche, that is, until they went home and talked to their daughters.’ Now Loveshark has closed.

Gaming brings us to the next frontier in technology: the metaverse. In 2021, Meta, the company that owns Facebook and Instagram, spent ten billion dollars on metaverse research; all the big tech companies are doing the same, and major global brands are following suit.

It seems we are going to be spending much of the future with virtual reality glasses attached to our heads, living in augmented realms.

As an anthropologist, I see the metaverse as a whole new social construct, a way for us to transform our basic social relationships and their attendant hierarchies of power. We have an opportunity to rebuild the world. Th ings that are hard-coded into our lives, such as the basic architectural inequalities outlined in Caroline Criado Perez’s book, Invisible Women, are things we can change. In the metaverse, we could design cars that are specially for women, have enough bathrooms at major sporting venues, and set a reasonable temperature in our office buildings. After all, they’re not real – they’re mutable. In the metaverse, we can use simulations to train doctors and firefighters; we can see the world without destroying it; we can do more than just text or call our loved ones; we can hug them, too. In its most idealised form, it presents us with the ability to collapse space and time; to reinvent our individual and collective selves. And perhaps, sometime in the future, the utopia we build in the metaverse might make its way into our lived realities.

But this opportunity seems an elusive, if not impossible, dream.

The metaverse, rather than giving us the space to be our best and redress the wrongs of the real world, is more of an uncharted frontier where anything is possible, and the worst things materialise. A space where sexual violence, homophobia, and hate crimes abound, with no regulation, monitoring, or moral centre. A recent Channel 4 Dispatches documentary describes a litany of abuses in the metaverse, with basic safeguarding and protections for children virtually non-existent.

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

IS TECH REALLY A MEANS TO PROGRESS FOR ALL OF US, OR IS IT MAINLY DRIVEN BY THE FANTASIES OF MEN WHO NEVER GOT OVER THE COOLNESS OF A CAR THAT TURNED INTO A ROBOT?

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

If women never enter the metaverse because it’s another space where abuse runs riot, they won’t show up – and neither will their money

This isn’t just a problem for parents, it’s a problem for any company wanting to have a presence in the metaverse. Tamar Kasriel, futurist and chief executive of Futureal, has worked extensively with brands to set out their metaverse strategy. She says that while many companies are investing in the metaverse, ‘there’s also a lot of fear’. Companies are desperate to get a share of the metaverse, yet aren’t exactly sure what their strategy should be. Will they recreate retail spaces that mimic the ones we see in the physical world? Can the metaverse help them harness that elusive and coveted thing – a community that is loyal to their brand?

There are so many unknowns around the metaverse. Most of us don’t really even know what it is – you could even argue that we’re already in the metaverse, because so much of our lives are an amalgam of the digital and the real. But what we do know is that businesses have high hopes for the metaverse, for the branding and commercial opportunities they provide.

But there is, as far as I know, no regulatory body overseeing the potential problems the metaverse brings with it. ‘Is it the retailer’s

responsibility to police their metaverse domain?’ Kasriel asks – and this is a legitimate question. But whether it’s a responsibility or not, it’s certainly a vested interest. If women never enter the metaverse because it’s just another space where misogyny and abuse run riot, we won’t show up – and neither will our money.

When we talk about representation, it can sometimes feel like it’s a box that companies have to tick so they can advertise their hiring practices and appear to be doing the right thing. But data tells us that companies with women in leadership roles outperform companies with a huge gender imbalance. Companies need to focus their metaverse strategies, not just on branding and monetising, but on a larger vision – one that prioritises safety, accessibility, human connection, and joy. The monetisation will follow suit, but it can’t be the driving impulse.

After reflecting on all of this, there’s only one conclusion I can come to: the metaverse must be built by women. If women build the metaverse, it will be fair, safe, and inclusive. I can’t put it any other way.

Companies: hire more women. Not because you should (but really, you should), but because the future will be better. For everyone. n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 99

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GBB 2023 —— TECH

theLIST

Eight Pieces of Tech You Need for 2023 All the gadgets worth plugging in to next year. By ELLIE SMITH

1 BROMPTON Electric P Line Swerve busy tubes with Brompton’s lightest ever e-bike, which folds up in a speedy 20 seconds, from £3,695. brompton.com 2 SKY Stream There’s a new, easier way to subscribe to Sky: a small box you can add to your TV offering access to over 120 channels, from £26 per month, set up fee from £20. sky.com 3 PHILIPS Signe Gradient Floor Lamp A jazzy smart light which can blend multiple colours to create the perfect mood, £279.99. philips-hue.com 4 THERAFACE Pro Pioneering percussive therapy brand Theragun is back with a massage device designed for your face, £375. therabody.com 5 MOLESKINE Smart Writing Set The second instalment of Moleskine’s digital diary has voice activated features, plus the opportunity to export video and audio, £229. moleskine.com 6 POLAROID P1 Music Player Polaroid has moved into the music space with a chic new range of colourful portable speakers, £49.99. polaroid.com 7 OURA Ring Gen3 Subtle and stylish, this nifty wellness wearable measures everything from blood oxygen levels to workout heart rate, $299 and monthly fee of $5.99. ouraring.com 8 NAIM Mu-so 2nd Generation Wireless Bluetooth Music System The second generation of Naim’s award-winning single-box wireless music system, £1,299. johnlewis.com 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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EF

GBB 2023

EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY 102 EDWARD GREEN 104 E.J. CHURCHILL 106 ETTINGER 108 FAIRFAX & FAVOR 110 FARRAR & TANNER 112 FAVOURBROOK 114

FBC LONDON 116 FENWICK 118 FITZDARES 120 THE FOUNDING AT CANADA WATER 122 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE 124

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GBB 2023 —— E

EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY

Bright parasols and garden accessories made in the UK, India and Indonesia

‘W

hen I started the company there weren’t many flamboyant garden parasols out there and I’ve worked hard to inspire people with how parasols can create and change a space.

Initially customers wanted pared back designs, but now people are braver with colour, pattern and shape. It makes my day to see customers’ photos of beautifully styled parasols.

My biggest achievement of the last year? Surviving. It has been a difficult couple of years, with rising costs of production and shipping, finding the right staff and being unable to visit producers. My priority was to keep production running. I work with small-scale producers in Indonesia, India and Hampshire and have a sense of duty towards them. When I’m doing my calculations, I’m not just looking into whether I will sell enough to keep the business afloat but also whether I can make enough to enable them to keep going.

I’m excited about the next year while aware that we’re moving into a time of uncertainty.

I sell a luxury product and am committed to making everything of the best quality possible; I want to sell timeless pieces for people to treasure. I absolutely love the new designs for 2023 – they include swirls, a crazy chintz and a luscious colour palette.

Creating them was very special because for the first time in two years I was able to return to India and sample the colours myself; it has made me fall back in love with my company.

My reaction to the possibility of difficult times ahead is to return to our colourful roots. The brand started out with the slogan ‘live colourfully’ but for the past two years our product lines have been more muted. Now I feel like we’re back on the right trajectory.’

Lucy Ferguson, founder

‘MY REACTION TO THE POSSIBILITY OF DIFFICULT TIMES AHEAD IS TO RETURN TO OUR COLOURFUL ROOTS’

TIMELINE

2012

While living in Kerala, Lucy hosts Christmas and uses temple umbrellas to decorate her roof – sparking her big idea

2016

The East London Parasol Company launches, selling its first parasols at Wilderness Festival

2019

The company launches in the USA with a dedicated website that sells a limited range of the round bamboo umbrellas

2020

The company starts a UK production arm, making unique octagonal parasol frames using FSCcertified ash wood

2021

The East London Parasol Company partners with One Tree Planted, planting a tree for every parasol sold

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Inspired by Keralan temple umbrellas, East London Parasol Co’s shades come in a range of vibrant patterns and colours

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

At the beginning, the company was supported

by The Prince’s Trust.

The first parasols were made by temple umbrella makers in Kerala.

Each parasol is named after a diva, either someone who is known internationally or by the founder personally.

There are 98 parasol designs in total, all made from sustainable wood.

The company collaborates with Hampshire carpenters who made theatre stage scenery until lockdown before pivoting to create the octagonal parasol frames.

EAST LONDON PARASOL COMPANY eastlondonparasols.com eastlondonparasolco

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GBB 2023 —— E

EDWARD GREEN

The marriage of evolution and tradition in the best of British shoemaking

‘T

he Greek philosopher Heraclitus said: “All things flow like a river. Nothing stands still.”’

In many ways much is unchanged in the world of Northampton shoemaking: a commitment to quality and detail endures. But as with the water flowing along Heraclitus’s river, we’re constantly moving, updating our designs in a subtle, iterative manner.

The way men dress for work continues to evolve but for some, there’s no substitute for immaculate formal tailoring – and our Chelsea cap-toe is still our most popular model. But for many men, today’s professional attire has softer lines and there’s more room for self-expression. Consequently, customers want more boots and loafers than ever before.

Our most popular boot, the Galway, is a field boot that we’ve been making since at least the 1930s. We’ve introduced it on a new last, the 303, with a round-toe shape designed to be worn with today’s fuller trouser. Just as the cut and style of jackets and shirts change with time, so do the proportions of shoes. Another way that we refresh our timeless styles is to introduce new leathers. This year we have introduced a handsome natural grain calf called Cotswold

Grain. All our leathers are selected to age well, gaining character with time and care.

Loafers have seen the greatest uplift in recent times. That makes sense: no shoe is as versatile and for 2023 we’re making it in more variations than ever before, introducing the saddleless Hampton, to sit alongside the tasselled Belgravia and the Piccadilly penny loafer.

At the heart of the company is the marriage between Northampton’s wonderful shoemaking tradition and our presence on Jermyn Street from where we can keep our finger on the market’s pulse.

That will continue to be the case, no matter where the river may flow in the future.’

Euan Denholm, Head of Brand and Business Development

TIMELINE

1890

After starting out as an apprentice shoemaker at the age of 12, Edward Green establishes his own factory in Northampton

1936

Edward’s son Cyril is the company’s driving force.

He writes of how Edward Green is the largest maker of ‘best-grade long boots’ for the British Army

1982

John Hlustik, an AngloCzech shoe designer, buys Edward Green, bringing renewed focus on quality, promising to make for ‘the Discerning Few’

2004

Edward Green moves into a modern factory, with better lighting and working conditions and opens its current shop on Jermyn Street

2021

Introduces a new range of styles cut from Yorkshire tanned waxed suedes.

Has over 60 artisans making around 225 pairs of shoes a week

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‘WE’RE CONSTANTLY MOVING, UPDATING OUR DESIGNS IN A SUBTLE, ITERATIVE MANNER’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Edward Green’s signature Dover style is hand sewn with a boar’s bristle.

Edward Green made the boots for Lord Mountbatten’s ceremonial burial dress.

John Hlustik introduced hand antiquing to English shoe-making, having trained in Milan. With its rich, handsome burnish, this process gives a distinctive finish to Edward Green calfskin shoes to this day.

4 5

Gary Oldman wore Edward Greens when playing Winston Churchill in Darkest Hour.

Edward Green patented a form of side-lacing boot – recently available as the St James’s – and which was one of many styles the brand made for Ernest Hemingway.

Edward Green has set the standard for luxury British footwear for over 130 years

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EDWARD GREEN & CO LTD 75 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6NP +44 (0)20 7839 0202 edwardgreen.com edwardgreen1890

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GBB 2023 —— E

E.J. CHURCHILL

Heritage gunsmith and the home of award-winning British clay shooting

‘W

e were closed throughout the pandemic and when it was over the transition from zero to hero was a massive challenge – but we were ready for it. While most of our competitors closed during lockdown, we decided to use the time to develop every aspect of our business. We spent in excess of £1m on renovations alone.

We also made sure we kept in touch with our clients. And it worked. Last year people returned to us in droves and the business flew. In fact, it was a record year.

So, our biggest achievement was not just surviving, but thriving. We hosted the CPSA World English Sporting and Sportrap Championships with very little time to prepare and we successfully raised the bar right across our business.

The challenge facing us now, of course, is the economic crisis. We’re a high-end sport and business, which cushions us to a certain extent, but our clients need to have both time and money to pursue their passion. If they’re focusing on keeping their own businesses on track, they may not have the time to come shooting.

Normally in a recession, corporate bookings back off quickly, but they’re holding up really strongly, possibly because businesses are still trying to engage with their customers post-Covid and raise staff morale. I think key for 2023, though, will be to stay absolutely at the top of our game: if the pie is smaller, we’ve got to get a bigger share of that pie. If anybody wants to go clay shooting across England, we have to make sure they come here and when they do, that they get the very best customer service, the best facilities and the best staff. It’s going to be challenging but we’re in a good place to do it.’

‘THE KEY TO 2023 IS TO STAY ABSOLUTELY AT THE TOP OF OUR GAME’

Rob Fenwick, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1891

E.J. Churchill founded by gunsmith Edwin John Churchill

1989

Chairman Sir Edward Dashwood opens the shooting ground

2016

E. J. Churchill is crowned British Rural Sporting Business

2019

The brand opens its second ground on the Swinton Estate, Yorkshire

2023

It becomes the first ground to host five World Championships

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

E.J. Churchill is the only shooting business in the UK with a gunmakers, sporting agency, multiple shooting grounds, in-house events management, gunroom and retailing.

2

The brand has crafted some of the world’s most celebrated sporting shotguns, including a pair made for the Prince of Wales in the 1930s.

3

E.J. Churchill has played host to dozens of charity events over the last five years, helping raise over £5 million for both local and international causes.

4

The Buckinghamshire shooting ground is home to the Elite Training Centre and is used by Team GB Olympic Athletes and international competition winners.

5

The Buckinghamshire ground has an on-site Caviar House & Prunier restaurant and provides quality, locally sourced food including gluten-free, vegan and seasonal game options.

E.J. CHURCHILL Park Lane End Buckinghamshire HP14 3NS +44 (0)1494 883227 ejchurchill.com ejchurchill

From shooting lessons to sporting days to gunsmithing, E.J. Churchill has a 360degree approach to its flourishing business

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GBB 2023 —— E

ETTINGER

The leading fine leather goods company taking a global approach

‘W

e’re one of the few companies still making in the UK and we export all over the world. In fact, more than 90 percent of what we make is shipped abroad to Japan, Korea, China, the USA and other countries.

America is a hard market to break into but it seems to be working for us. It’s a challenge to grow more but we like challenges like that.

They’re fun.

The past few years have not been easy for anyone. Not only do we still have the remnants of the pandemic,

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

All Ettinger products are handmade at the brand’s factory in Walsall, northwest of Birmingham.

Gerry Ettinger continued working at Ettinger until he was 90.

Robert Ettinger had to choose between pursuing a skiing career or joining the family business in his early twenties.

In the early years, Ettinger made branded leather accessories and bags for other luxury companies and department stores such as Asprey, Fortnum & Mason and Harrods.

we’ve got all the other international problems of inflation plus the cost of oil and gas. It’s created a huge amount of uncertainty. So, we are having to be very nimble, move quickly and seize opportunities.

We have been relying on our online retail which means we can ship any product out of our warehouse in Putney to anywhere in the world.

It’s really kept us going and we’re planning to double our online turnover in the next two years.

Another focus is our collaboration with Sanderson. We have created a beautiful new collection called “Morris & Co. x Ettinger”. They’re stunning products. We’ve embossed a William Morris pattern onto Ettinger leather and also incorporated material with a Morris design on it. It’s one of the nicest collaborations we’ve ever done.

We’re also launching a new collection of hand luggage in canvas and leather, which looks great, plus a number of new leather collections.

Although we’re not high fashion, every year we launch new products, either in new leathers or new designs. We always want people to see something that’s a little bit different and special.’

5

Ettinger products sell in over 180 shops in Japan where the brand has a ‘cult’ status.

ETTINGER 215 Putney Bridge Road London SW15 2NY +44 (0)20 8877 1616 ettinger.co.uk ettinger.london

Ettinger is one of the few companies still making in the UK

Robert Ettinger, CEO

TIMELINE

1934

The brand is founded in London by Gerry Ettinger, father of the current CEO, Robert Ettinger

1990

Robert Ettinger takes over as Managing Director from his father after training abroad across different businesses

1996

The brand is awarded a Royal Warrant to HRH The Prince of Wales in recognition of the work carried out for the royals

1999

Ettinger acquires James Homer Ltd, one of Walsall’s oldest leather goods manufacturing companies, est. in 1890

2008

Ettinger launches its first online shop, allowing customers all over the world to discover its luxury leather goods

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GBB 2023 —— F

FAIRFAX & FAVOR

Norfolk-based footwear, accessories and clothing brand with a philanthropic twist

‘W

e celebrate our tenth anniversary in May, and are proud to have raised over half a million pounds for various charities, like Breast Cancer Now and NHS Charities Together. We thought 2022 would be easier than 2021, but Brexit issues have had a massive effect on our supply chains.

Though we are factory-ready, it has been fairly frustrating getting hold of our zippers from Japan. The other challenge is competition from bigger brands, moving back to Europe to speed up their manufacturing. This has driven up factory prices, so we’ve had to raise ours.

Despite all, we will go on being the best we can, continuing to deliver great service and products. Our customers turn to us for presents at Christmas, anniversaries and birthdays and we’ve expanded our offering to be all-year-round, with sandals and trainers, which turned out to be bestsellers. We also added a lovely suede trench coat to our Autumn/Winter 2022 collection.

We attended the Kentucky Horse Trials in America, where the brand is really starting to take off. At home one of our biggest successes was our collaboration with Le Chameau – The L’Alliance, which launched at the Game Fair. In the retail sphere, we bucked the trend, opening rather than closing stores, going from one in Norfolk, to four more in Stamford, Helmsley, Stow-on-the-Wold and

From boots to bags, Fairfax & Favor has become a byword for high-quality town and country fashion

TIMELINE

2013

Founded by Felix Favor Parker and Marcus Fairfax Fountaine. They have a trade stand at Holkham and launch Regina boot

2015-2017

Stand at the Game Fair.

Launches first bag, the Windsor. In 2017, wins Best New Footwear at Shooting Awards

2019-2020 Store opens in Holt, Norfolk. Wins Best Luxury Brand of the Year. Launches first clothing products

2021

Wins gold at the SME Positive Impact Awards.

New store opens in Stamford, Lincs

2022

Stores open in Helmsley and StowOn-The-Wold. Raises £589,460 for charity to date

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‘WE’VE BUCKED THE TREND

BY OPENING NOT CLOSING STORES, GOING FROM ONE IN NORFOLK TO FOUR MORE’ Marlow. Our Fairfax & Favor Club, a private Facebook group has over 85,000 followers and growing.

Despite inevitable economic gloom, our spirits will not be dampened! We’ll ensure we keep giving our customers fun, whether hiring a magician at a Game Fair or buying a racehorse and setting up a racing club syndicate for them.

We’ll always take a less traditional approach to running our business, aiming to be a lifestyle brand and much more than just a shoe shop.’

Felix Favor Parker, Founding Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Fairfax & Favor is the combination of the two founders’ middle names, Marcus Fairfax Fountaine and Felix Favor Parker.

The first ever pair of Regina boots can be found at the Holt Store, alongside the desert boots worn

by Liam Neeson, an early fan.

Other fans include Zara and Mike Tindall, Gordon Ramsay, Charlotte Hawkins, Francesca Cumani, Kit Harington, Jodie Kidd, Clare Balding, the Duchess of York and Liz Earle.

4

In over seven years Fairfax & Favor has raised over £300,000 for Breast Cancer Now and a total of around half a million pounds across other charity initiatives.

In 2020, it was the ninth highest fundraiser for NHS Charities Together, with its blue tassel campaign.

5

The new Norfolk warehouse will increase storage space by more than six times to 62,000 sq/ft and has capacity for 230,000 items, compared with 96,000.

FAIRFAX & FAVOR Narford Hall, Kings Lynn Norfolk PE32 1JA fairfaxandfavor.com fairfaxandfavor

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GBB 2023 —— F

FARRAR & TANNER Personalised gifts to be treasured for years to come

‘G

enuinely good quality gifts that can be personalised are core to the Farrar & Tanner range. We have lots of brands that people will have heard of such as Robert Welch, Barbour and Wedgwood, but then we also have some really great brands from around Europe, including backgammon sets from Greece, cutlery and sommeliers from France, and chess sets from Italy. That combination of highquality gifts and personalisation makes for a unique gift.

One key aspect of personalisation is that it elevates the gift on an emotional level, and the message is, of course, your choice. Special dates can be commemorated making our gifts particularly popular for milestone birthdays, anniversaries and weddings. Popular choices for the latter include pocket watches for the groom, hip flasks for the groomsmen and champagne toasting flutes for the bride and groom – all can be engraved with their names and date of the wedding. We all want to give a gift that makes someone happy, and ours create lasting memories.

We’re building on international growth and our range is now available for delivery to 186 countries fully duty paid. We can engrave and ship gifts around the world in a matter of days.

Farrar & Tanner is excited to have launched its “Concierge Club” loyalty scheme. A key part of that is the birthday and anniversary reminder service, which is a helpful little cue for remembering those important dates. But it also has lots

Farrar & Tanner has brilliant gift options for all tastes and occasions

TIMELINE

2016

Brand is launched by founders Matt Farrar and Richard Tanner with a focus on personalised premium gifts

2020

The team are proud to reach the milestone of selling over 100,000 personalised gifts

2021

Over 100 innovative and celebrated British and European brands are now showcased online

2022

The Concierge Club launches with exclusive members-only offers and benefits, including the birthday reminder service

2023

The Farrar & Tanner showroom opens its doors in Cheltenham, welcoming its customers in person for the first time

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‘WE ALL WANT TO GIVE A GIFT THAT MAKES SOMEONE HAPPY, AND OURS CREATE LASTING MEMORIES’ of other benefits that will appeal to people, including enhanced postage and loyalty discounts.

We’ve just opened a beautiful showroom in Cheltenham where you can browse the products with personalisation in-store available for you to take with you. Most of our customers still choose to shop online. You can dynamically add and preview your engraving, choose gift options and have your gift delivered as quickly as next day.’

Matt Farrar and Richard Tanner, co-founders

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The brand’s Concierge Club has a birthday reminder service so you don’t miss out on special occasions.

The founders’ surnames and brand name are historical references for metalworking (Farrar) and leatherworking (Tanner).

They are represented in the horseshoe and needle motif.

3

Most of metal and wood engraving now uses hightech laser equipment.

However, the leather embossing is still created using hot brass letters stamped using a technique going back hundreds of years.

4

With a focus on sustainability, the brand has removed plastics from its packaging as well as creating its own biodegradable fill on-site using waste cardboard.

5

Many of its brands have been operating for over 100 years, including Wedgwood, founded in 1759 and Royal Brierley in 1776.

FARRAR & TANNER 24 Lansdown Estate Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL51 8PL +44 (0)344 5678 365 farrar-tanner.co.uk farrartanner

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GBB 2023 —— F

FAVOURBROOK Sartorially elegant formalwear for men and women, from waistcoats to suits

‘T

he minute Marks & Spencer went on Radio 4’s Today programme and announced that they were going to stop making suits in August 2021, I started designing and getting them manufactured as quickly as I could. And we completely sold out.

So, although it’s been a tough year for manufacturing and issues with the supply chain, being able to produce really good quality products, and get them into the store on time, was singularly our greatest achievement. Customer demand has been really high. I think the key thing that a lot of retailers missed out on is the return of the suit. It’s also very nice to have the new navy morning suit accepted by Ascot. Adjusting the rules to allow blue to be worn alongside black and grey is the first dress code change we’ve seen in four decades.

I’m normally quite good at staring into a crystal ball but it’s very difficult to predict what will happen this year. I think the biggest challenges will probably come from inflation and keeping prices at a level that is acceptable for everybody. There are still challenges with basic material supply, like cloth, thread, buttons and trim, and those are going to be hard to get around.

I’d also like to get more made in the UK but our own workrooms are very busy, mostly making waistcoats and other accessories.

Favourbrook has become the byword for formal British elegance since it was founded 30 years ago

TIMELINE

1990

Favourbrook is born with its first retail space in London’s Piccadilly Arcade, specialising in shirts, formalwear and accessories

1991

Oliver Spencer acquires rolls of silk from Stephen Walters’ mill Sudbury, Suffolk, and produces his first collection of waistcoats

1994

Launches its first womenswear collection, which focuses on silk and velvet coats, jackets and dresses for the growing women’s market

2017

With a fast-growing client base, Favourbrook opens a new flagship store on London’s Pall Mall, showcasing menswear and womenswear

2020

Becomes an Official Licensee for menswear for Royal Ascot and produces an inaugural Royal Ascot collection to mark the partnership

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‘PEOPLE WANT TO ELEVATE THEIR SPIRITS. HOW DO YOU DO THAT? BY DRESSING UP’ I am expecting high demand to continue in certain areas, such as celebrations. Weddings and parties will still be big because there are so many events leftover from Covid and, in a time of recession, people want to elevate their spirits. How do you do that?

By dressing up, going out and having a good time.’

Oliver Spencer, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Favourbrook’s reputation grew from word-of-mouth until some hand-painted waistcoats had a starring role in Four Weddings and a Funeral in 1994 – and then the brand went truly global.

2

All the company’s morning suits and much of its womenswear collection is constructed in London, meaning the quality control is exceptional and the environmental impact kept to a minimum.

3

Favourbrook’s menswear has been worn by discerning celebrities including Ronnie Wood, Jeffrey Wright, Stanley Tucci, Sam Smith, Stephen Fry and Sir Ben Kingsley.

4 5

The womenswear collections have long been a favourite of a certain member of the Royal Family, who shall remain unnamed.

Founder Oliver Spencer’s lucky charm is a miniature steam train which rides up the staircase banister in the middle of the shop.

FAVOURBROOK 16 & 17 Pall Mall London SW1Y 5LU +44 (0)20 7493 5060 favourbrook.com favourbrook

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GBB 2023 —— F

FBC LONDON Bespoke luxury furniture and accessories, from lighting to kitchens and wallcoverings

‘W

e’re still a relatively new brand: we opened in America during the pandemic to amazing feedback and we’re now expanding, with five to ten agents under our belt. We’re looking to sell a lot more across the States in terms of the diversity of our client demographic, which is very exciting.

What’s been really incredible for us last year was our outdoor furniture, which we’re building on this year. I think we’re unique in the garden furniture space in the fact that we are designing pieces for indoors that can also be used outside. We’re breaking boundaries on the luxurious look, feel and texture that we’re translating to outdoors and that’s been a big attraction for clients. The collection is all about contemporary craftsmanship and durable materiality, and comprises upholstered sofas, dining tables and chairs, armchairs, rocking chairs, coffee tables, ottomans, side tables and loungers, all of which are fully customisable as each piece is produced bespoke.

In addition, we launched the “Byethorne” lighting collection a few months ago, and it’s selling really well, both here and in America. Many of our clients come to us looking for lighting that complements the bold, yet refined aesthetic of our furniture and so we wanted to create pieces that are a natural extension to our existing collections. The lighting is based on our bestselling “Byethorne” furniture range, and named after my grandfather’s house in Northumberland. The pieces have beautifully clean lines and simplistic metal forms

FBC London’s beautiful, handcrafted modern furniture works both indoors and out

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‘WE’RE BREAKING BOUNDARIES ON THE LUXURIOUS LOOK, FEEL AND TEXTURE THAT WE’RE TRANSLATING TO OUTDOORS’ accentuated with bold metal detailing, while delicate white onyx or handcrafted bubbled glass add a delicate touch.

We’ve designed 30 to 40 new pieces that we’re starting to make and filter out, including lighting, lovely cabinets with specialist finishes and, for outdoors, double loungers and a four-poster bed for around the pool.’

Fiona Barratt-Campbell, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Launched in 2013 by awardwinning interior designer Fiona Barratt Campbell, FBC London is renowned for its impeccably crafted, meticulously detailed and luxuriously defined furnishings.

2

Fiona’s designs are born from a passion to create pieces of timeless elegance, inspired by history, and colours and textures from nature, particularly the Northumberland landscape of her childhood.

3

Inspired by the Roman goddess, of the same name, the Edesia dining chair has been incredibly successful, with the brand’s artisans handcrafting 109 of them last year.

4

The intricate metal pattern work and antique patina of the “Armour” collection pay tribute to the decorative techniques found on ancient jewellery, with handcrafted finishes based on 3,000-year-old techniques.

5

In July 2022, FBC London launched its first lighting collection, featuring striking pendants, wall sconces and chandeliers.

FBC LONDON 66 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8LS +44 (0)20 7730 9555 fbc-london.com fbclondon

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GBB 2023 —— F

FENWICK

The department store of distinction since 1882

‘I

n 2022 we celebrated our 140th anniversary with a circus theme, in honour of our founder’s son, Arthur Fenwick. He had a passion for the colour and courage of circus life and brought a sense of showmanship and wonder to Fenwick. We’ve always been, as our founder described it, a department store that seeks to delight, and inspire those who shop with us to enjoy the circus of life.

We marked this anniversary with a programme of celebratory events. This included a spectacular live circus, a podcast series The Women Who… which celebrates empowered women who’ve blazed a trail for the last 140 years, and Exhibition 140, featuring pieces from the Fenwick archive.

Plus, there was Café 140 and Arthur’s restaurant and music club, housing a series of themed events. We also did several exclusive brand collaborations, including Edeline Lee, Rixo, Paul Smith and Palmer Harding, as well as collaborating with fashion students from Northumbria University, creating bespoke pieces inspired by our archive and story.

We began our £40m investment in our Newcastle store, with our ambitious “Master Plan” leading with a new atrium. This will continue into 2023 alongside redeveloping other stores,

Fenwick has nine stores across the country, offering wonderful in-store shopping experiences

TIMELINE

1882

John James Fenwick opens his store in Northumberland Street, the first shop on an otherwise residential street, the first of many

1891

Fenwick opens as the first fashion store on New Bond Street, quickly becoming a must-visit for affluent, stylish women

1971

Fenwick Newcastle debuts its first animated Christmas window display with a Camberwick Green theme, starting a beloved tradition

1976

In a landmark retail moment, the UK’s first enclosed shopping centre opens at Brent Cross with Fenwick as its flagship store

2018-22

Launches Fenwick Food and then Fenwick at Home in 2021. In 2022 it marks its 140th anniversary with a year of celebration

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‘WE’RE STRIVING FOR A LEVEL OF PERSONAL SERVICE AND HOSPITALITY THAT IS OFTEN ONLY SEEN IN THE MOST EXCLUSIVE ENVIRONMENTS’ particularly our store in Kingston, and our website. We’re at the heart of community in each of our nine locations, and this year we’re focusing on creating an exciting offering with an unmatched in-store experience.

Our Fenwick vision is to be a “store without walls”, in which every member of our team is a concierge, going out of their way to source whatever a customer desires – nothing is too much to ask. We’re striving for a level of personal service and hospitality that is often only seen in the most exclusive environments.’

John Edgar, CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Fenwick began as a dressmaking shop with a curated edit of the best quality silks, fabrics and trimmings for the fashion-forward women of the early 1880s.

2

British aviatrix, Lady Isobel Chaytor, chose Fenwick to design her flight suit for the first London to Australia flight by a female pilot in 1930.

3 4 5

Fenwick was the first UK establishment to advertise on public transport, debuting its first bus advert in 1935.

The Fenwick family welcomed Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on an official visit to Fenwick’s new Bracknell store in 2018.

Its Christmas window display was broadcast digitally for the first time during the pandemic, reaching more than one million people around the world.

FENWICK 63 New Bond St London W1S 1RQ +44 (0)191 2325113 fenwick.co.uk fenwickofficial

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GBB 2023 —— F

THE FITZDARES CLUB

Fine dining and live sporting events in a luxury setting

A‘

t Fitzdares, we have always gone in the opposite direction of our competitors and, it turns out – when the world is being constantly turned on its head – that this is, in fact, a brilliant time not to be normal.

Although political instability around legislation for the gambling industry has been challenging, we saw so many green shoots in 2022, just cropping up out of nowhere.

One of our biggest achievements has been the launch of our luxury members’ clubs.

We opened the first one in Mayfair in 2020.

Because of the uncertainty in the hospitality sector, we didn’t have one drop-in client for a year and half – everyone booked so they could be sure we’d be open. Now we have ten drop-ins a day and we’ve recently had our busiest month ever. Our latest club in the Cotswolds, on the Naunton Downs Estate which boasts an 18-hole golf course, is also working really well for us.

Another achievement is investment in our staff – we worked hard to create a good environment for people to return to after lockdown. Our staff have, in turn, rewarded us.

The sole purpose of our brand is to make sport more fun and we’re doing that.

The biggest challenge now is how to reset the way consumers engage with information and how we acquire new clients. I think it comes back to old-fashioned retail: having a relationship directly with the customer. Last year we published a book on the 100 best places to go in London – the sort of thing brands did 20 years ago – and it sold out so we’re reprinting it. People today want physical experiences executed beautifully. Brands are going to have to really bend over backwards to make their customers feel special.’

With its luxurious clubhouses and dedicated service, Fitzdares is committed to providing a nextlevel sporting experience

William Woodhams, CEO

2006

Balthazar Fabricius founds Fitzdares, offering a more personalised betting service. It becomes the first bookmaker to introduce text betting

2019

Fitzdares Club organises its first pop-up in Mayfair during the Cheltenham Festival, to resounding success and positive feedback from visitors

2020

Fitzdares Club Mayfair opens above Mayfair’s oldest pub, combining the excitement of a sports bar with the comfort of a private members’ club

2021

Fitzdares Club On Course opens at Royal Windsor.

A year later Fitzdares Cotswold Club opens at Ben Pauling’s yard on the Naunton Downs Estate

2022

Fitzdares Club On Course at The Cheltenham Festival opens, as well as setting up a home-fromhome in Herefordshire’s Eastnor Castle

PHOTOS: © MIKE GARLICK

TIMELINE

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‘IT TURNS OUT THIS IS A BRILLIANT TIME NOT TO BE NORMAL’

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Fitzdares is named for Miss Elizabeth Fitzdare, the lover of Balthazar B in J.P. Donleavy’s novel, The Beastly Beatitudes of Balthazar B.

2

No money changes hands in any of the Fitzdares Clubs. Bets are placed via the brand’s app, which covers every sport and is the fastest in the racing market.

3 4

The Fitzdares app also connects clients with live and highly trained brokers.

Fitzdares is a member of the Betting and Gaming Council, which is committed to driving change and promoting safer gambling.

5 PHOTOS: © MIKE GARLICK

Fitzdares’ signature cocktail is the Horse’s Neck, the brand’s racing twist on the classic Martini.

FITZDARES Naunton Downs Estate Naunton, Cheltenham GL54 3AE fitzdares.com/club thefitzdaresclub

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GBB 2023 —— F

THE FOUNDING AT CANADA WATER

Creating a new mixed-use destination for the 21st century

‘C

anada Water was, until the 1960s, the port of entry for ships bringing timber from North America and Scandinavia for London’s construction industry. Many of the former docks were filled in but some remain: Canada Dock itself, outside the underground station, and Greenland Dock are reminders of the area’s industrial history.

British Land has assembled the parts of the site over the last decade but now we’re into the construction phase.

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

A net-zero neighbourhood by 2031, Canada Water is one of the first UK regenerations to use cement-free Earth Friendly Concrete, and enjoys an allelectric energy strategy with 100 percent renewable electricity.

Our f irs t residential building is The Founding by Allies and Morrison. When complete it will offer incredible views across London from its expansive apartments with interiors designed

by Conran and Partners.

The wider masterplan will see a mixed use of residential, retail and leisure, and workspace. The area has excellent transport links; there are more people under 35 living within a 45-minute journey of here than almost anywhere else in London.

Having a cool workspace is a great way of attracting this bright young talent. The site’s flagship building is the former Daily Mail printing house, an enormous structure comparable in size to Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall; we intend to preserve its industrial heritage by displaying a restored printing press. For the last five years, it’s been run as a concert venue known as The Printworks; around five million people attended events there. The intention is to make it an edgier, more fun version of the Southbank Centre, with cultural areas alongside places to work.

At Canada Water we can put some of our ideas about modern city living and working into practice.

The site is surrounded by so much greenery, the docks and the River Thames that it feels as if it’s miles from central London, but actually it’s incredibly central. It offers the best of both worlds.’

2 3 4

Canada Water is surrounded by 160 acres of green and blue space with woodlands, parks, and waterways.

Canada Water will have the first new high street in London in a generation, a new town square and 16 new streets.

Echoing the area’s industrial influences The Founding’s bespoke interiors comprise brushed stainless steel, ironmongery, polished concrete and European oak flooring.

5

The Grade II-listed Dock Manager’s Office is home to The Founding’s sales and marketing suite and Canada Water’s project hub.

THE FOUNDING AT CANADA WATER The Dock Office, Surrey Quays Road, London SE16 2XU thefounding.co.uk canadawaterldn

Emma Cariaga, Head of Residential and Joint Head of Canada Water, British Land

The site retains the area’s historical past while reimagining it for a bright new future

TIMELINE

2015

British Land acquires final part of 53-acre site, including the former Daily Mail printing works, with the acquisition of Surrey Quays Leisure Park

2020

Secures outline planning permission for London’s first new urban centre in generations, bringing new places to live, work, and relax to this historic area

2023

The Founding launches, a 35-storey residential building providing a first chance to purchase a home at Canada Water

2024

First residents due to move into The Founding, a collection of studios, one-, two- and threebedroom apartments

2031

Expected to complete with 3,000 net-zero homes, office space for 20,000 workers and one million sq/ft of leisure amenities

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GBB 2023 —— F

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE

A grand hotel that offers a private members’ club with a Château Latour experience

‘W

e believe that our hotel is truly one of the jewels in the crown of the Four Seasons portfolio. We only have a 100 rooms, which makes it intimate and we’re able to offer a very personalised service. There are also 41 absolutely stunning one-tofour-bedroom residences, and we’ve got amazing restaurants, a gorgeous spa and a private members’ club, Ten Trinity Square.

The members’ club comprises a series of lavish yet discreet rooms, ideal for whether you’re doing business or relaxing with a glass of wine chosen by the sommelier from its extensive cellars. There’s also a cigar lounge, a carefully curated wine programme, Château Latour tastings and dinners, and a series of exclusive members’ events.

Last year saw incredible demand – in fact, the best year the hotel has had since opening in 2017. It’s an amazing testimony to the hard work my whole team put in, regardless of the current challenges. We have a team of passionate people – probably the strongest the hotel’s ever had. I’m so proud of what we’ve achieved.

One big event last year was our 100th anniversary. At the front of the building, we installed a temporary

TIMELINE

1922

The building is constructed and opens as the headquarters of the Port of London Authority

1946

It plays host to the inaugural reception of the United Nations General Assembly

2010-2017

Ten Trinity Square is part of the Reignwood Group (a portfolio that also includes Wentworth Golf Club in the UK)

2017

In January the hotel opens, providing a preferred address for both business and leisure travellers

2022

Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square is voted one of the best hotels in the capital

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‘WE WANT PEOPLE TO SEE US AS FRIENDLY, CARING AND LOVING, WHICH IS WHAT WE DO EVERY DAY’ garden installation, designed by Nigel Dunnett, who did Superbloom at the Tower of London. It brought nature back to the building, introducing bees, butterflies and other signs of biodiversity. This ties in with our strong desire to increase our ESG initiatives this year.

We’re an impressive but somewhat intimidating building.

So, we want to make sure that, yes, we are one of the best brands in the world, but we want people to see us as friendly, caring and loving, which is what we do every day. Is this year going to be as great as 2022? That’s what we hope, as we’re finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel.’

Marie-Laure Fleury, General Manager

DID YOU KNOW?

1 The Four Seasons Hotel staff are known for their friendliness and warm welcome for all guests

Ten Trinity Square private members’ club offers its members exclusive experiences in unparalleled surroundings

Ten Trinity Square was designed

by Sir Edwin Cooper, who won the project in a competition.

It was constructed at the thenastronomical cost of £1 million.

2

Ten Trinity Square private members’ club offers exclusive Château Latour tasting experiences, curated by its award-winning sommeliers.

3

The Cigar Lounge located within the members’ club is the only one of its kind in the City of London.

It offers an exceptional collection to sample, from rare vintage Havanas to Montecristos and Cohibas.

4

The hotel offers two ballrooms including the UN Ballroom, famed for being the location for the inaugural reception of the United Nations General Assembly in 1946.

5

The hotel’s two Michelin-starred La Dame de Pic London is the only UK restaurant from French chef Anne-Sophie Pic, showcasing unexpected flavour combinations with a focus on seasonal and local ingredients.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE 10 Trinity Square London EC3N 4AJ Hotel: +44 (0)20 3297 3718 fourseasons.com/tentrinity fstentrinity Members’ club: +44(0) 3297 9330 tentrinitysquare.com tentrinitysquareclub

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GBB 2023 —— WINE

theLIST

Ten British Wines to Quaff Our homegrown wine is going from strength to strength. TOM GILBY counts down his top ten lip-smacking bottles for stocking up your cellar

Rathfinny Blanc de Noirs 2018, West Sussex Rathfinny's flagship wine, Blanc de Noirs is the product of black skinned grapes, in this case pinot noir. £40.50, rathfinnyestate.com

Stopham Pinot Gris, West Sussex Slightly off dry with a mesmerising hedgerow, floral scent and beautifully crisp flavour. £16, stopham vineyard.co.uk

Simpsons Railway Hill Rosé 2021, Kent Proof that we can challenge Provence rosé in style, elegance and flavour. A wellmade and beautifully pretty pink. £19.50, simpsonswine.com

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2014, West Sussex, A hedonistic, complex and flavoursome bombshell. One of our finest estates and this is its best wine. £46, nyetimber.com

Gusbourne Chardonnay Guinevere 2020, Kent Think Premier Cru Chablis but with enough peach-like flesh to make this a very gluggable mouthful. £35, gusbourne.com

Camel Valley Pinot Noir Rosé Brut, North Cornwall A party in a glass, so pretty in colour...

Think summer meadows and a plate of strawberries. £36, camelvalley.com

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Chardonnay 2019, Kent While some might think it's a touch on the pricey side, this is very, very good. Our answer to White Burgundy. £30, chapeldown.com

Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV, Hampshire From one of our most established vineyards. Top quality sparkling wine, grown on chalk. £33, hambledon vineyard.co.uk

Hundred Hills Preamble 2018, Henley-on-Thames The result of 100 days of ripening over a long, fair summer, producing wonderful subtlety and vitality. £37.50, hundredhills.wine

Camel Valley Bachus, North Cornwall Think Sauvignon Blanc but with even more crispness and energy.

Akin to a very good Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or dry Vouvray. £16.95, camelvalley.com

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GHI GBB 2023

THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY 128 GP & J BAKER 130 GUAVA & GOLD 132 HAI 134 HANCOCKS 136 HARVEY NICHOLS 138 HARWOOD ADVISORY 140 HAY HILL 142 HEATH 144

HEIRLOOMS LINENS 146 HOLLAND & HOLLAND 148 HOLLAND COOPER 156 HOUSE OF BRUAR 158 HOUSE OF COLOUR 160 HUNTSMORE 162 ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS 164 THE ILLUSTRATED JEWELLER 166

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THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY A unique marriage of fine malt whisky and haute cuisine

‘T

he past year has been an exciting time at The Glenturret. It was the first year of trading for the distillery’s restaurant, which had opened the previous summer with the aim of demonstrating how whisky and fine food complement each other. One unexpected outcome of Covid may be that it enabled us to attract a star of the Scottish culinary world to The Glenturret. Renowned chef Mark Donald was captivated by

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The Glenturret Distillery is Scotland’s oldest working distillery, dating back to 1763.

the innovative concept during a particularly challenging time for the hospitality industry. Last year also saw visitors coming back to the distillery: the visitor centre felt alive again; everyone’s energy levels were buoyed by the return of the tourists.

We made an important change in the distilling process in 2022 by replacing our mash tun with a closed-topped one. This latest upgrade has saved a huge amount of energy and water, thereby massively reducing the distillery’s carbon footprint.

But the year had it s difficulties, too. One of the major challenges for whisky production has been the soaring cost of energy. The war in Ukraine has disrupted our supply chains – for example, shipping the whisky to our markets now takes much longer – and has caused the price of barley – one of the principal ingredients of whisky – to go through the roof. The weakness of sterling, while generally a good thing for exporters, for luxury goods brings with it the danger of discounting in overseas markets. In 2023, I’d love to see some stabilisation of costs as that would make managing the business easier.

The Glenturret shows great promise as we look to the years ahead. Our whiskies are re-establishing themselves as a premium brand and the restaurant is a great success with weekend reservations booked a minimum of two months in advance.’

In the 18th century, Sir Patrick Murray of Ochtertyre owned The Glenturret and part of the new bottle design features elements of his coat of arms.

3

The Glenturret Distillery was home to the famous cat, Towser. She features in the Guinness World Records as The World’s Greatest Mouser.

4

The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant won a Michelin star within seven months of opening, making it the fastest Scottish restaurant to win the award.

5

In 2009 The Glenturret began producing a peated spirit called Ruadh Maor, named after a shooting lodge that was flooded to make way for the Loch Turret reservoir.

THE GLENTURRET DISTILLERY The Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire Scotland PH7 4HA +44 (0)1754 656565 theglenturret.com theglenturretwhisky

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Glenturret 2022 core range; moving the casks; The Glenturret; The Glenturret Vinotheque; indulge in Maracaibo Mille Feuille at the Lalique Restaurant

John Laurie, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1763

First documentary record of The Glenturret in a lease granted by the Barony of Ochtertyre.

Originally known as The Thurot Distillery

1825

The Drummonds negotiate the Ochtertyre Agreement to obtain water and peat for whisky production, securing the distillery’s future

1980

The Glenturret opens one of the first distillery visitor centres in Scotland, welcoming one million visitors in the following decade

2019

The Glenturret’s new owners, led by The Lalique group, unite Lalique’s contemporary elegance with the distillery’s traditional craftship

2022

The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant makes history by becoming the first restaurant in a distillery in the world to earn a Michelin star

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GP & J BAKER Beautiful fabrics and wall-coverings inspired by the company’s historic archives

‘P

eople came into 2022 very optimistic that the pandemic was behind us but we were all hit by challenges, like rocketing freight charges and the impact of the Ukraine war on our linen yarn suppliers in Belarus.

Luckily for us, people increasingly want their homes to be sanctuaries, so we’ve been using our archive to reinvent and grow our wallpaper collections. In autumn we launched our Brantwood collection of fabric and wallpapers, with uplifting colours, inspired by our Arts & Crafts archive dating back to the 1930s. Another big success of 2022 was our small prints, fabric and wallpapers that can be used everywhere in the home.

We have the licence for Mulberry Home, so produced some recoloured Mulberry icons in fabrics and wallpapers. We also launched a lovely cushion collection, in five core colours, and a beautifully edited boutique range of English handmade furniture.

Really, we’ve had a fantastic, busy year. Some of our greatest achievements included our Planet Mark accreditation, reflecting our ongoing commitment to doing things better environmentally; partnering with Chelsea Design Centre on its WOW House that benefitted the Shelter charity; and innovating our product offer to encompass finished product.

In January 2023 in Paris, we launched a smart striped collection for Mulberry in cotton, jute and mix linens and in the spring there’ll be

GP & J Baker’s well-loved prints cover everything from furniture to textiles to wallpapers

Crayford sofa from GP&J Baker’s furniture collection

TIMELINE

1884

Brothers George Percival and James Baker buy Kent-based Swaisland printworks and its archive, dating back to 1750, and found GP & J Baker

1893

GP & J Baker commissions leading Arts & Crafts artists, including architect and designer CFA Voysey, Lindsay Butterfield and Harry Napper

1935

Famed interior designers become GP & J Baker’s loyal customers, including Elsie De Woolfe who used the ‘Ferns’ design in many projects

1982

GP & J Baker is awarded the Royal Warrant by Queen Elizabeth II, for services to the Royal Household

1984

The V&A celebrates GP & J Baker’s centenary with a comprehensive exhibition of its archival documents and textiles

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‘SOME OF OUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENTS INCLUDED OUR PLANET MARK ACCREDITATION, REFLECTING OUR ONGOING COMMITMENT TO DOING THINGS BETTER ENVIRONMENTALLY’ new collections of both rugs and our contemporary brand, Threads.

We’re a small team but very positive, focused and strategic. Our word of the year was “flexible” which allowed us to cope with numerous challenges. Everyone today is time short and want things curating and editing so we offer designers good, easy decorating solutions, like our virtual pattern books that feature hundreds of in-stock fabrics and wallpapers that can be accessed by customers managing projects on the go. We aim to continue being an invaluable resource for designers everywhere.’

Ann Grafton, Managing and Creative Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1

GP & J Baker’s archive contains thousands of record samples as well as historical books and rare pieces of fabric including clothing, embroideries and original artwork.

2

George Percival Baker was a keen horticulturist and an avid collector of rare irises and alpine plants. The ‘Baker’ iris was named in his honour.

3 4

GP & J Baker’s original ‘Ferns’ design, a record of plants growing within a ten-mile radius of London, was purchased in 1935.

In 1924 GP & J Baker was commissioned to provide the fabrics and soft furnishings for London’s first airport – now Heathrow.

The first class lounge was in a tent.

5

GP & J Baker enjoys a long history of supplying fabrics and wallpapers to many royal palaces, private residences and embassies, in the UK and around the world.

GP & J BAKER Design Centre East, Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 0XF +44 (0)20 7351 7760 gpjbaker.com gpjbaker

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GBB 2023 —— G

GUAVA & GOLD Invigorating bath and body products, inspired by tropical fruits and turquoise seas

‘S

ince Guava & Gold launched in 2018, we’ve seen year-on-year growth in sales revenue and we’re becoming more well-known.

But as an independently owned brand, the hardest thing about the past year has been focusing investment into the business despite the financial downturn. The economic environment – particularly the fact that all our suppliers have increased their prices – makes that challenging but, I believe, all the more important. People buy our products because they perform, we have loyal returning customers and I am constantly overawed by the talent, hard work and determination of the fantastic team supporting me.

Our greatest recent achievement is what’s happening overseas. We’ve signed our first distribution agreements for Israel and the Hong Kong/China markets.

That’s a huge step forward.

In October, we exhibited at our first foreign fragrance event in Doha. The response was amazing, with people returning specifically to say they loved using the products.

We’re now in negotiations to grow the brand’s presence in the Middle East. Although we already supply some businesses abroad, we believe Guava & Gold has what it takes to scale beyond the UK market so these are exciting times.

Looking ahead to next year, Guava & Gold is all about affordable luxury and we’re planning to expand the collection. Our multi awardwinning range includes shower gels, haircare products and our shimmering body oil,

The luxurious range of bath and body products features natural oils and distinctive tropical scents

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‘FRAGRANCES WERE CREATED EXCLUSIVELY FOR US BY ONE OF THE LARGEST GLOBAL FRAGRANCE HOUSES’ blended with unique fragrances created exclusively by one of the largest global fragrance houses.

Working in collaboration with them, we aim to offer a wider range of lifestyle products. We already use lots of natural oils and distinctive scents, trying to source ingredients ethically. Products are presented in recyclable bottles and packaging, and we’d like to move to bottles made from sugar cane extract while incorporating water-free products to further limit our environmental impact.’

Clare Price, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The ethically sourced ingredients in the award-winning bath and body products include shea butter wild-harvested by a local women’s co-operative in Ghana.

2

Natural oils play a key part in nourishing hair and skin so Guava & Gold uses sweet almond, coconut, grapeseed and manuka oils across the collection.

3 4 5

The brand shares tips on the benefits of its products and how to use them to care for skin and hair on its social media.

The brand works with a diverse group of influencers who are all incredibly supportive of Guava & Gold as a small independent brand.

For her last birthday, staff gave founder Clare a huge cake with a photo on it of her working in one of the company’s pop-up shops.

GUAVA & GOLD guavaandgold.com guavaandgoldofficial

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GBB 2023 —— H

HAI

Performance-based make-up and skincare brand that takes a positive approach

‘O

ur mission is to provide products that transform an extremely uncomfortable situation into a joyful one without compromise. From athletes to post-gym skincare, beauty and sports are two beads of the same sweat. Our goal is to connect beauty and sports. We started off as an athlete’s brand – and we’ve expanded it for people who sweat.

We have spent the last 18 months creating new ground-breaking products specifically for the everyday active person, to be launched this spring. We want to bring something new, useful and efficient into this overwhelmed beauty landscape and make sure our customers are covered in the most extreme situations.

We have found a new UK manufacturer and have been digging deep into sustainable practices, using natural and upcycled ingredients. Working with specialists, we have also developed the fragrance of each product to be non-gendered, subtle and unique – plus suitable for several applications. The result is clean yet functional products that are highly effective, affordable and smell great.

I am not getting drawn into any negativity about

TIMELINE

2016

Grace de Alvaro founds HAI. The products’ first formulae are tested by 12 personal trainers at the Dogpound gym in New York

2018

HAI’s first product samples and website launch. It features in polo magazines and used by high-goal women polo players

2019

The brand adds new skincare products to its range of smudge-proof make-up. HAI’s design, logo and colour palette are developed

2020

HAI wins its first beauty award: the Attracta Beauty Award for Best Nourishing Lip Balm for its Lip Hydrating Complex

2021

Grace wins a personal Businesswomen Award.

HAI support St Andrew’s Welly Ball in aid of mental health charity, The Charlie Waller Trust

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‘WE WANT TO BRING SOMETHING NEW, USEFUL AND EFFICIENT INTO THIS OVERWHELMED BEAUTY LANDSCAPE’ the economy. I just crack on. That’s the way I’ve been thinking about it.

We did an event with Rolls-Royce and Bentley, who are both doing their first electric cars, through which I met some interesting new brands. I’ve joined The Women’s Chapter, a jolly bunch of female founders, who have been very supportive. It’s important to make sure you are not isolated and that you’ve got team support.

I also think it is vital to keep on top of your mental health by doing positive things. I’ve been mentoring other start-ups, helping people who have more difficulties than I have. I just focus on what is good for myself and other people. I think that’s the same with HAI – products that are good for you.’

Grace de Alvaro, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

HAI is the world’s first dedicated sports make-up brand.

The brand’s products are developed and tested alongside athletes, who really put them through their paces.

HAI works with different British artists as part of the creative process. Grace’s background is in art magazine publishing, so art is a constant source of discovery and inspiration for her.

4 5

Each of the products are named after thoroughbreds such as Dawn Run, Bold Ruler and Suntan Baby.

HAI focuses on producing beauty and skincare products that are needed and not already in the beauty market.

HAI aims to become active and adventurous people’s number one beauty and skincare brand

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HAI +44 (0)7532 021450 sportshai.com sportshaimakeup

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GBB 2023 —— H

HANCOCKS LONDON Purveyors of the finest bespoke, vintage and contemporary jewellery

‘A

t Hancocks, we source the very finest and rarest gemstones in the world, be they diamonds, emeralds, rubies or sapphires.

We take pride in curating these stones into what we believe is one of the finest selections in Europe, perhaps beyond. We then use these exceptional gems to create one-of-a-kind pieces in the same way that we did 170 years ago, using many of the same manufacturing methods. It is quite rare to find jewellers still doing this, but it is very much a part of our DNA. We are redeveloping our websites and investing heavily in video content.

It shortens the distance between us and our customers abroad so they can buy our pieces with confidence.

However, at the same time, this digital approach puts the old pieces of jewellery under a lot of scrutiny that perhaps some people would rather shy away from. But it goes with our ethos of being honest and upfront about every single unique piece we have.

It’s very hard to sell one-of-akind pieces when people use the internet to make price comparisons. For example, I might make a unique Colombian emerald ring but people will still look for mass-produced Colombian emerald jewellery. So, it’s rising

above that challenge and showing our jewellery in the right light. This comes down to our website: so people know what they are buying, why it’s rare, why we love it and they can clearly judge whether it appeals to them. Looking to the future, we have big plans soon to be announced. We are effectively changing the whole process of how people buy jewellery, how they learn about it and how they view it while putting a completely new, fresh face on jewellery retail.’

Guy Burton, Bespoke Director

‘WE ARE EFFECTIVELY CHANGING THE WHOLE PROCESS OF HOW PEOPLE BUY JEWELLERY, HOW THEY LEARN ABOUT IT AND HOW THEY VIEW IT’

TIMELINE

1849

Charles Frederick Hancock establishes his eponymous firm on Bruton Street, quickly building a reputation for excellence

1849

Within months of opening, the firm received a Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria, it would be their first of many over the years

1856

The Duke of Devonshire commissions a suite of exceptional jewels for his nephew’s wife to wear at Tsar Alexander II’s coronation

1856

Queen Victoria entrusts Hancocks with the making of the newlyintroduced Victoria Cross, an honour that the brand continues to uphold today

1997

Hancocks, under the directorship of Stephen Burton, moves into its current location in Mayfair’s historic Burlington Arcade

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Hancocks prides itself on sourcing the best gemstones in the world

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Hancocks has one of the finest collections of old cut diamonds in Europe. Bespoke Director Guy Burton combs the world for the finest antique stones to offer to clients.

2

You can search for your family crest on the dedicated signet ring website: hancockssignetrings.com/ crest-finder

3

The bronze from which all Victoria Crosses are made comes from cannons that were captured from the Russians during the Crimean War.

4

Sometimes Hancocks buys back pieces of beautiful antique or vintage jewellery that it first sold many years ago – most recently, a diamond leaf tiara made in around 1900.

5

Hancocks has one of the best tiara collections for sale in the UK. Its spectacular Anglesey Tiara was worn at the coronations of King George V and Queen Elizabeth II.

HANCOCKS LONDON 52-53 Burlington Arcade London W1J 0HH +44 (0)20 7493 8904 hancocks-london.com hancocks_london

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GBB 2023 —— H

HARVEY NICHOLS

A curated, personalised, luxury shopping experience in store and online

‘I

am extremely proud of everyone at Harvey Nichols and their focused dedication over the last two years. Our teams have maintained the great morale and spirit which we’ve always had, and this continues.

We’ve come to understand that “normal” is being in a constant state of flux, and we’ve embraced this without compromising the shopping experience. This year is set to be challenging, but with our great employees and loyal customers, we’re confident we’ll create exciting reasons to visit, in store and online.

In 2022 we launched our international Rewards programme, which will become even more important in driving engagement and loyalty as it gives people the choice of exclusive online and in-store benefits, as well as earning generous cash rewards.

In our Knightsbridge flagship, we recently opened the unique Jacquemus concept, the largest UK space for the designer, while in Beauty, we landed the global store exclusive for the much-anticipated Fenty eau de parfum by Rihanna. In terms of hospitality, we have a new fifth floor restaurant, Lucarelli, in partnership with chef Aldo Zilli, already extremely popular.

People’s behaviour is constantly changing, but the shift to online has become more permanent, so retail is becoming more adaptable than ever, more personalised and more digital.

Harvey Nichols focused on providing a curated experience through our physical stores and online, and we’ve learnt to be agile so we can provide an even more personalised service. We’ll be closely adapting to what people want and need across our product ranges, services and platforms.

Our celebrated stores across the UK and abroad are a core part of our brand, and we will continue to offer shoppers not only what they are looking for, but something unexpected, be that a new fashion brand, beauty service, in-store experience or hospitality outlet.’

Manju Malhotra, CEO

Harvey Nichols’ dedicated new Jacquemus concept

TIMELINE

1831

Benjamin Harvey opens a linen shop on the corner of Knightsbridge and Sloane Square

1841-1850 James Nichols is employed, later marrying Benjamin’s niece. Harvey Nichols & Co. is born

1975

A restaurant, Harvey’s, opens on the Fifth Floor and becomes an instant success

1985

In 1985 The Burton Group buys Harvey Nichols, followed by Dickson Poon who embarks upon a huge refurbishment

1996

Harvey Nichols is listed on the London Stock Exchange and a national expansion begins with a store in Leeds

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Harvey Nichols has eight stores in the UK and Ireland and five abroad – in Riyadh, Kuwait, Dubai and Hong Kong.

Harvey Nichols has owned the OXO Tower on London’s South Bank, since 1996. In 2021, OXO was one of only 23 restaurants to be awarded a Michelin Green Star, when it was introduced in the UK – and retained it in 2022.

3

In November 2012, it opened a new store, ‘Beauty Bazaar, Liverpool’, which would carve a new era of beauty retail.

It provides the ultimate one-stop destination for all things beauty and is home to some of the most iconic beauty brands and the most innovative treatments.

4

In 2017, Harvey Nichols exclusively launched Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, the pioneering brand built on inclusivity and diversity. Rihanna herself was welcomed into the flagship store for a surprise guest appearance.

5

As part of its 2018 ‘Let’s Hear it for the Girls’ female empowerment campaign, Harvey Nichols smashed its famous shop windows, to recreate suffragette protests 100 years after women got the vote.

HARVEY NICHOLS 109-125 Knightsbridge London SW1X 7RJ harveynichols.com harveynichols

‘RETAIL IS BECOMING MORE ADAPTABLE THAN EVER, MORE PERSONALISED AND MORE DIGITAL’

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GBB 2023 —— H

HARWOOD ADVISORY

Boutique property firm delivering exceptional results

‘I

started Harwood Advisory in 2020, five days into the pandemic. It shouldn’t have worked but it did because people always want sound advice. My first acquisition was a house on the Wentworth Estate for an Asian client. I’d previously been a partner at Knight Frank where I worked in the high-end central London market and built up a range of contacts in south-east Asia and have continued to utilise and build this network.

Harwood Advisory focuses on sales, acquisition, and advisory work.

Since then I’ve been joined by two partners, Susannah Fox and Anna Lazenbury. Susannah is also

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Harwood Advisory is a dedicated specialist team, small but perfectly formed with three property professionals covering retained search and sales in prime London and the country.

2

The company is results driven. All clients receive the same unparalleled level of service, the hallmark of which is an obsessive pursuit of their goals until they are completely met.

a Knight Frank alumna, educated at Cirencester and RICS qualified, with 15 years’ experience and now specialises in London and the Country. Anna has 18 years’ experience in the property sector, having worked for many years at the multi-disciplinary firm Stonehage Fleming running their buying arm.

Together we form a tight-knit, hard-working, and agile team offering our clients the type of highquality, discreet, day-and-night service they require and which, all too often, they do not get at the big international agencies.

We are driven by our clients in the kind of property we deal in; their needs are paramount, but probably our sweet spot is in the teens of millions. Recently we launched a 5,300 sq/ft house in Hans Place, one of the finest in Knightsbridge, for £14,950,000.

Also on our books is a magnificent leasehold flat in Academy Gardens, just off Kensington High Street, at £8,250,000.

Outside the office I am a keen open-water and ice swimmer: even 200 metres in the Serpentine on a winter’s morning sets you up for the day.

We’re well placed to react to the market next year and it’s important to remember that despite everything which has been going on here, London remains the number one global city for foreign buyers.’

3 4

It enjoys an outstanding track record, the result of its focus on exceeding its clients’ expectations.

Promising and providing total confidentiality and discretion, Harwood delivers its mandates with no publicity and no media coverage.

5 Harwood Advisory specialises in super-prime properties for HNW clients

It is deeply loyal to its clients. The majority of them come via ‘word of mouth’ recommendations from existing clients. Its badges of honour are the testimonials from happy buyers and sellers.

HARWOOD ADVISORY 5 Baldwyn Gardens London W3 6HH +44 (0)774 8508891 harwoodadvisory.com sami_robertson

Sami Robertson, founder

TIMELINE

2020

Completes first £29m+ Kensington sales transaction in December.

Its first high-value sale of a superior house was achieved with no publicity

2022

In January, just 18 months after launching, Harwood Advisory reaches the milestone of £100m worth of transactions

2022

Sells a prestige penthouse in Holland Green for £14m+. The mandate had been transferred to Harwood from two global estate agencies

2022

In November, within two-and-a-half years of launching, Harwood completes over £200m worth of transactions

2022

The team’s core attributes of endurance and tackling the toughest challenges are exemplified by Sami representing GB in Ice Endurance swimming

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GBB 2023 —— H

HAY HILL

The Mayfair private members’ club for business sets its sights on new openings

‘C

onceived as a private members’ club for business, HAY HILL was the first to provide business people with a carefully curated, luxury environment in which to meet, entertain and conduct business alongside an exceptional leisure space and five-star service.

Furthermore, we provide our resident members with the best serviced offices available in London.

Our business model proved its resilience during the pandemic but also in its aftermath, as work patterns changed and more people

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DID YOU KNOW?

came to appreciate flexibility in their working arrangements and demand more from their working environments. While our coveted Mayfair postcode, along with the finest facilities were unaffected by past years’ challenges, retaining the third, most important element, of our offering – exceptional service – was the biggest challenge we faced, due to constrains in the labour market.

We are proud to have an incredibly loyal, long-serving team, which reciprocated our standing by each of them by constantly delivering outstanding service and setting the benchmark for truly personable customer service.

Last year saw us continuing to invest in the club by completely renovating one of the key areas – our stunning bar. The Bar is now the heart of the club, evolving from a place centred around pure business to an all-day venue where, on top of conducting their business, our members can enjoy a bar and entertainment that stands alongside the most exclusive private members’ evening venues in Mayfair. We have additionally introduced a new evening membership option, granting access to the club’s facilities after 5pm and attracting a diverse new pool of members.

Succeeding in the most competitive club scene in the world, London, has opened the demand for expanding our footprint in the UK and internationally.

Expansion and securing multiple sites are goals we are now working towards, and we hope these plans will come to fruition soon.’

1

HAY HILL has coined the term ‘Club Working’ to describe the new way of conducting business and moving seamlessly between work and leisure time.

2

It was the first place in London to combine the luxury of a private members’ club with the business focus of a working environment, curating the perfect setting to drive businesses forward.

3

A restaurant, lounge, stunning roof terrace, and newly renovated bar all co-exist under one roof in one of the most luxurious postcodes in Mayfair.

4

HAY HILL is also home to three floors of fully serviced offices. Resident members can reap the benefits of a fully serviced office within the club environment.

5

Resident members can now order room service in their offices, which compares with the service offered by the capital’s finest hotels.

HAY HILL 12 Hay Hill, London W1J 8NR +44 (0)20 7952 6000 12hayhill.com 12hayhill

The original business members’ club, HAY HILL has expanded its after-working hours offer, blurring the lines between work and play

Stephanos Issaias, CEO

TIMELINE

2015

HAY HILL is founded and has since retained its reputation as London’s premiere private members’ club for business

2016

Launch of the members’ events programme, offering networking opportunities over discussions, masterclasses and talks

2019

Opening of the highly sought-after summer terrace (one of the few roof terraces in Mayfair).

The ideal location for al fresco drinks and dining

2022

Renovation of The Bar. With exceptional interior design, The Bar becomes the perfect day-to-night location for entertaining clients and celebrating

2022

Launch of evening membership – HAY HILL offers the opportunity to join London’s leading business members’ club after 5pm

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GBB 2023 —— H

HEATH

Father-and-son brand, creating natural skincare for men

‘T

he last few years have shown us how quickly things can change and that finding ways to future proof our business is crucial.

One of the advantages we have over bigger brands is that we can make decisions rapidly. If we want to launch a new product, and we believe in it, we don’t need multiple sign-offs from different countries.

We can make speedy decisions and pivot. Equally, we’re a young brand, so we expect to have to deal with challenges.

Heath is about creating luxury products for everyday use. Our typical customer is a man who lives and works in the City. He is probably renting so is likely to be impacted by the current cost of living crisis. We want to give him better value than he could find elsewhere, and we are currently looking at every single element of our marketing funnel so we can pass any savings we can make onto the customer.

One of our greates t achievements last year was becoming Boots’ second fastest growing male facial skincare brand, pretty remarkable for a business that only launched in 2017. Of course, we’re aiming for the number one slot, but we’re still very proud of being number two. We’re equally proud to be selling successfully now in ten international markets. Japan, where there is a high appreciation of quality and customers are very demanding, is proving a particularly strong market for us.

The looming economic crisis is concerning for everyone, but I think because we offer everyday

luxury at an affordable price, we stand to gain more than we will lose in the coming years. People have an appreciation of style, design and quality and that won’t change. Overall, I think the future remains positive for British brands and British-made goods like ours.’

Harry Aaronson, co-founder & CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Heath is a made-in-England brand, founded over a game of squash between Harry Aaronson and his father, Denis, who both wanted more from their skincare.

2 3 4

Ingredients have been carefully chosen for their specific tried-andtested benefits on men’s skin.

Products are also formulated with mood-boosting fragrances to relax or revitalise.

The brand’s anti-blue light products contain Soliberine NAT, a natural derivative of a plant found in the mountains of China that has adapted to high levels of UV exposure.

5

As well as reflecting the products’ natural ingredients, Heath’s signature colour is a nod to the racing green of a Jaguar E-type and to classic British design.

HEATH 2 Lonsdale Road London NW6 6RD +44 (0)20 7483 8383 heathlondon.co.uk heath.skincare

TIMELINE

2017

Launched into independent retailers and Waitrose

2018

The brand goes international, launching in the EU

2020

Heath is stocked by Boots, the largest male skincare retailer in the UK

2022

The Heath Club launches, a community of brand fans and ambassadors

2022

Heath becomes the second fastest growing male skin brand in Boots

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All of Heath’s specialist men’s skincare is made in England

‘I THINK THE FUTURE REMAINS POSITIVE FOR BRITISH BRANDS AND BRITISH-MADE GOODS LIKE OURS’

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GBB 2023 —— H

HEIRLOOMS LINENS Design-led manufacturer of bespoke linens providing turnkey solutions

A‘

s a design-led manufacturer specialising in bespoke linens, we encounter challenges all the time, but my mindset is that everything is possible. You find creative, innovative ways, and you have to be brave – which I think sums up ‘brave new world’ for me.

Our most successful year was 2021-22, and I’m proud of our dedicated, creative team. We love what we do, and we’re growing. Half our projects are in the residential and interior design market and half in yachts, private aircraft and boutique hotels. Feedback from Monaco and Decorex showed

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Heirlooms Linens buys in Italian woven fabrics but otherwise linens are all hand measured, cut, embroidered and sewn in the UK – this global brand is a small team in a small town.

our values, ethos and skills are widely recognised, along with our wonderful customer service.

Like everyone, we’re concerned about energy costs and are already use low-energy sewing machines and seeking efficiencies. Receiving a Royal Warrant from the former Prince of Wales involved analysing traceability within our supply chain, establishing, for example, efficient water use in cotton production. In this aspect we were ahead of many other companies.

For us social responsibility is an important aspect of sustainability.

We have a UK workforce, and we pay staff a proper wage, which is becoming more important for clients: they want a company they can trust. But recruitment can be a challenge: we work with local schools, textile colleges and universities alerting people that there is a unique manufacturing company on their doorstep.

Future opportunities include developing our great collaboration with Savoir Beds offering linens within its retail stores. We’re going to be the finishing house for a major Italian fabric supplier, who say that there are few companies in Italy or around the world that can do project work like we do.

Despite Brexit we’re in a global economy, and businesses want to work together to provide solutions for the benefit of everyone. We’re always working to our absolute best and striving for perfection.’

2

The company’s linens have been used in TV programmes and films like Downton Abbey, James Bond, Outlander, The Golden Compass and, most recently, Succession.

3

Heirlooms is part of a family-run holding company which owns an eclectic mix of businesses including several bakeries, stonemasons and calligraphers.

4 5

The longest-serving employee has been at Heirlooms for 21 years.

There used to be a retail shop at the factory selling the bed linens, table linens and towels for which the business is renowned, along with things like pyjamas and candles.

Heirlooms Linens offers its customers a range of bespoke or ready-to-order products

HEIRLOOMS LINENS Unit 2, Arun Business Park Shripney Road, Bognor Regis West Sussex PO22 9SX +44 (0)1243 820252 heirlooms-linens.com heirloomslinens

Ruth Douglas, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1984

Heirlooms is founded by its original owner, Liz Murray

1995

Begins supplying the late Queen Elizabeth II with linens

2005

Awarded a Royal Warrant by Her Majesty the Queen

2012

Awarded the former HRH The Prince of Wales’s Royal Warrant

2016

Heirlooms expands to accommodate a state-ofthe-art cutting machine

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GBB 2023 —— H

HOLLAND & HOLLAND

Perfecting the art of shooting since 1835

‘W

e believe we represent the very hallmark of f ine British gunmaking and shooting, providing a benchmark for exceptional craftship and service. Our globally admired comprehensive range of shotguns and rifles are handcrafted at our dedicated London factory, where time-honoured gunmaking skills and state-of-the-art machinery combine effortlessly to instil quality and artistry into every shotgun and rifle. For many owners these are not just guns; they are works of art.

Our prestigious Shooting Grounds, set in 60 acres of beautiful

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1 2

In 1883, Holland & Holland entered the rifle trials organised by The Field magazine and won all categories.

open countryside just outside London, continue to excel at providing world-class shooting tuition, with a gun-fitting service on-site. Our Lodge offers wonderful hospitality, including a fireside lounge and restaurant, serving delicious British seasonal produce from our Michelin trained Head Chef, Joshua Hunter.

When Chanel owned us, understandably there was a focus on clothing and accessories. Now, having been bought by Beretta, we’ve gone back to our roots as a producer of shotguns and rifles, with a passion for field sports and the countryside.

In 2023 we’ll be meeting the increasing demand for clay pigeon shooting by improving our infrastructure and services and looking at one-to-one deer stalking within managed estates.

Large numbers of deer have to be culled every year so working with estates is a way of supporting land management in the right way, while putting wild venison back into the food chain in our restaurant. It’s closing the loop, utilising nature as we used to in the past.

As a quiet environmentalist, we’ve been redeveloping our guns for high performance steel shot as lead ammunition is phased out.

We’ve also been cleaning up our grounds, removing plastic bottles, providing filtered tap water on site and investing in rewilding areas of the site. For me, it’s never a question of meeting new requirements but always of exceeding them.’

In 1904, the company developed and patented the belted cartridge case, which had a major impact on rifle making.

3

Very active during WWI, Holland & Holland was especially well known for the duplex choke Zeppelin guns that fired a ball and chain. In WW2 it produced 23,177 of the highly accurate No.4 (T) sniper rifles.

4

It takes over 200 hours to engrave each gun’s Royal Scroll pattern. The ‘London Gun’ – a recent bespoke commission featuring a map of the city – took the head engraver a thousand hours to complete.

5

Holland & Holland has had many Royal Warrants in its history, including the Crown Prince of Austria, the King of Spain and, in 1995, from the Prince of Wales, now King Charles III.

From its exquisitely engraved guns to its pristine shooting grounds, Holland & Holland continues to fly the flag for British excellence

HOLLAND & HOLLAND 906 Harrow Road London NW10 5JT +44 (0)1923 825349 hollandandholland.com hollandandholland1835

Nigel Stuart, COO TIMELINE

1835

Entrepreneur Harris Holland decides to go into the gun trade; 26 years later, his nephew Henry joins the firm

1883

The King of Italy grants the first Royal Warrant and, two years later, the company applies for its royal trademark

1898

The purpose-built factory on Harrow Road in west London opens. The brand still makes its guns there today

1932

Holland & Holland opens the Shooting Grounds, set in 60 acres, and just 40 minutes from London

2021

The Beretta Group acquires Holland & Holland from Chanel, marking an exciting new era for the company

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CRAFTSHIP —— GBB 2023

The ‘Made in Britain’ label is a global guarantee of quality, rarity and craftship, but unless we train up the next generation of craftspeople, we’re in danger of throwing it all away, says Charlotte Metcalf

The role of the Harris Tweed Authority is to promote and maintain the authenticity, standard and reputation of the world famous Harris Tweed cloth

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GBB 2023 —— CRAFTSHIP

ime was when the word ‘homespun’ would have conjured up a simple, rough garment that a character in Cold Comfort Farm might wear. Who’d have thought ‘homespun’ would become the lynchpin of luxury? But it has, with its origins in Harris Tweed, today one of Britain’s proudest heritage exports. Few people know that the principles of making Harris Tweed are enshrined in a 1993 Act of Parliament, which ensures every metre is made from virgin wool in the weaver’s home and only in the Outer Hebrides. Even the great industrialist Lord Leverhulme failed to prevail against the strict maxim of ‘one weaver, one loom, one croft’, when he tried to scale up the process. Harris Tweed, sought after globally for its – literally – homespun rarity, is made only to order by about 160 certified weavers, personifying slow fashion and the ultimate luxury.

British brands have experienced an extraordinary amount of widely documented recent upheaval, denting consumer confidence and spending power. Yet brands that have had to manufacture on a smaller scale closer to home are now standing to gain. Being quintessentially British is more of an asset than ever, witness the everlasting appeal of a Savile Row suit or a pair of gentlemen’s shoes, renowned the world over for their robust reliability.

Jonathan Jones of familyowned Crockett & Jones, which has made shoes in its Northampton factory since 1879, says, ‘Englishness is our identity and our strength.

It’s no good following fashion because Italy always leads.

Instead, we stand for the quality of our materials and construction. A pair of our classic Oxford-style shoes is as good today as it was over a decade ago and there’s no Proudly made in the UK point changing it. The more

we build on that core strength, the more we stand out in the global market. People know what to expect from us and are prepared to pay handsomely for it.’

While Northampton is famous for its shoe factories, John Smedley is still manufacturing where it started in the world’s oldest factory in Derbyshire. This continuity has served to underpin confidence and pride in the brand’s mission, defined well over 200 years ago, to design and produce the world’s finest knitwear. Managing Director Ian Maclean says, ‘Generations of families around the world have shown our brand great loyalty – which is amazing and humbling at the same time. Our two Royal Warrants are the most visible symbol of this.’

No one knows the value of Britishness better than Carole Bamford, champion of organic farming and sustainability, and founder of Daylesford and Bamford, whose resolutely locally made products command high prices. ‘The importance of valuing and supporting local industries and manufacturing were emphasised by compromised supply chains during the pandemic,’ she says. ‘The precarity of relying on imports threw a spotlight on British heritage and our wealth of skills – and the need to support them.’ She sees her customers wanting to make informed, ethical choices so a product’s provenance and supply chain must be visible.

‘Eyes have been opened to the devastating effects of fast fashion,’ she says, ‘so a shorter, local supply chain makes verification of a garment’s origin easier to trace. We’re transparent with our stories and local and international customers like the brand’s connection to nature and the fact that the whole process of designing and crafting the garments is so carefully considered, which comes through in the quality of the clothing.

Our homegrown merino collection sold out last year

PHOTOS: HARRIS TWEED AUTHORITY; ALAMY

BRITISH BRANDS THAT HAVE HAD TO MANUFACTURE ON A SMALLER SCALE CLOSER TO HOME ARE NOW STANDING TO GAIN

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PHOTOS: HARRIS TWEED AUTHORITY; ALAMY

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Crafting a Crockett & Jones shoe by hand; John Smedley is still manufacturing its knitwear in the same factory 200 years later; provenance is key to the Bamford brand

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GBB 2023 —— CRAFTSHIP

WE MUST INSTIGATE APPRENTICESHIP SCHEMES TO ENSURE OUR ‘MADE IN BRITAIN’ LABEL CONTINUES TO REPRESENT A GLOBAL BADGE OF EXCELLENCE so there’s a tangible respect for UK-produced products.’

Anyone still in any doubt about the clout of a ‘Made in Britain’ label should talk to Tom Davies, maker of bespoke glasses and sunglasses.

In 2017 he moved his manufacturing back from China to his Brentford factory and saw sales in China burgeon, proof that a British-made stamp represented guaranteed quality.

Charu Gandhi, founder of Elicyon, recalls a Chinese client who fell so in love with British design that when he moved back to Shanghai from the UK, he turned to Elicyon to create an authentically British home. ‘We dry-fitted the entire apartment in our joinery workshop, then flat-packed it and air-freighted it to China,’ says Charu. ‘We had to modify certain things, like the very British open-plan kitchen that wasn’t ideal for stir-fries, but he was so concerned with Britishness that we took everything from London, from paint to scissors.’

In 2014 Charu deliberately chose London, the ‘epicentre of design’, as her company base. ‘Britain has a long history of honouring its professions, from joiners to its goldsmiths,’ she says. ‘Take the Master Guilds or the rigorous process that a master architect goes through to qualify or a brand to receive a Royal Warrant.

All these impose a certain calibre on the craftsmanship that plays such a role in how British design is perceived in the world.’

Anya Hindmarch was in Japan shortly after the Queen’s funeral and says, ‘We’ve had a huge amount of outpouring of love for the UK recently. Everywhere I went in Japan there’d be a hand on my arm and, “I’m so sorry about your Queen”.

The funeral really ignited a fascination with all our brilliant pomp and ceremony and all those British-made traditional uniforms and finery. Even in her death, the Queen did the most incredible job for Brand Britain.’

Young companies, like clothing brands Holland Cooper, whose tweed pieces are

made in the UK, Edeline Lee and Herd, are increasingly seeing the benefit of manufacturing here, especially given the new generation’s laudable preoccupation with reducing its carbon footprint. Laboni Saha, founder of L Saha, which specialises in hand-made women’s eveningwear and jewellery, finds that manufacturing locally enhances her team’s creativity. ‘Much of our stuff is entirely hand-made by seamstresses within our atelier, and not having to send pieces abroad to be made up means we can experiment and play with things much more,’ she says.

‘But even with our ready-to-wear range, we’re thinking about bringing our manufacturing back to Britain because the more local we are, the smaller our carbon footprint and that’s so important.’

TROY London was founded by sisters Lucia Ruck Keene and Rosie van Cutsem in 2013 as a socially, environmentally and ethically conscious brand, specialising in outerwear. ‘We’re seeing customers making more considered decisions when looking for heritage garments and we wanted to get close to British craftspeople and learn about design and manufacture,’ says Lucia. ‘It was a fantastic opportunity to support a heritage industry which is in danger of dying out. For example, our highly skilled suede specialist is pretty much a one-man band, yet cuts and stitches suede in a way that ensures it stays strong and lasts for generations.’

Indeed, Carole Bamford warns we need to do far more to protect these vital skills if British manufacturing is to thrive. ‘We need to encourage people to make it their trade,’ she says, ‘and we have to change younger people’s perception and show that there is a future and prospects in these heritage crafts.’

We might have the oldest factory in the world, but if our manufacturing is to remain buoyant, we must instigate training and apprenticeship schemes to keep our valued craftship alive and ensure our ‘Made in Britain’ label continues to represent a global badge of excellence. n

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Charu Gandhi from Elicyon deliberately chose London as her design centre: Herd’s knitwear is fully traceable from local sheep; Tom Davies has brought back his manufacturing from China to London

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GBB 2023 —— H

HOLLAND COOPER

Beautifully tailored British-made forever fashion and equestrian style

Wales has also regularly been spotted wearing Holland Cooper.

Our way of adapting to this new world of ours is to keep growing our offering of forever fashion: wardrobe staples in classic styles and cuts that will always remain relevant. Many of our most popular garments, from trench coats to classic blazers, are replicates of the originals. You might see seasonal updates in trims or fabrics, but people know they’re buying a classic from us.

Holland Cooper is one of the UK’s leading buyers of wool and tweed and British made tailoring will always be key to our business. We still have our own tailoring facility, where garments are hand cut using traditional methods. We celebrate our makers, and our brand is a testament that supporting British manufacturing goes hand-in-glove with a successful business. My aim is to implement an apprentice scheme to get young people into manufacturing, to provide jobs and future-proof traditional skills.’

Knightsbridge blazer, £399; Regal Horse silk scarf, £149

‘A

longside the growing popularity of online shopping, I felt it was important to invest in bricks and mortar and offer that luxury, personalised experience that’s not possible digitally. We opened our Cheltenham boutique with specialist stylists just over a year ago and I couldn’t be prouder.

Our collections continue to expand.

Our accessories and footwear is really established, with our popular shearlinglined wellies a must-have. At the 2022 Burghley Horse Trials, we launched one of my personal favourites, the Albany knee boot, handmade from premium suede.

In 2022 we also opened our brand new showroom which displays future season’s products, allowing us to host immersive wholesale buying sessions as well as influencer and private appointments.

Our savvy use of social media, with talent and celebrity endorsement, has driven sales and supported our online growth. HRH The Princess of

Jade Holland Cooper, founder and Managing Director Albany knee boot, £349

Jade Holland Cooper

TIMELINE

2008

Jade Holland Cooper founds the brand, selling skirts at a stand at Badminton Horse Trials

2019

A keen horserider, Jade launches the ‘HC Equestrian’ collection of breeches, gilets and base layers

2020

First footwear launched with the Holland Cooper Wellingtons, which are fully lined in soft sherpa

2021

HRH The Princess of Wales wears the fulllength Marlborough trench coat in heather tartan

2021

A Holland Cooper flagship boutique opens in Cheltenham and offers the first childrenswear collection, ‘Little HC’

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Founder Jade co-owns No 131, a luxury boutique hotel in Cheltenham, with her husband Julian Dunkerton.

No 131 is the home of The Terrace and Yoku restaurants plus the award-winning Gin & Juice bar. ‘Style & Shop’ packages offer stays and appointments with the Holland Cooper boutique.

3

Jade’s of-the-moment understanding of social media has gained her a multitude of Instagram followers. When Jade shows her followers how to create her timeless looks, pieces often sell out in minutes.

4

All Holland Cooper tailoring is British made. Tweed and wool garments are cut by hand using traditional methods – just as Jade did herself from the beginning.

5

Last year Holland Cooper announced its annual turnover as £22.7 million and the brand continues to see impressive growth year on year.

HOLLAND COOPER BOUTIQUE Cotswold House, The Barlands London Road, Charlton Kings Cheltenham GL52 6UT +44 (0)1608 658063 hollandcooper.com hollandcooperclothing

‘SUPPORTING BRITISH MANUFACTURING GOES HAND-INJubilee full length Marlborough trench, £849; Platinum Jubilee silk scarf £149; Nine Horse silk scarf, £149; Marlborough knee boot, £425, Chelsea saddle bag, £399

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GLOVE WITH A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS’

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GBB 2023 —— H

THE HOUSE OF BRUAR

Scotland’s premium emporium for fine country living and contemporary style

ʻB

eing family-owned and run, we’ve been able to move quickly and adopt new strategies to turn the difficulties many brands are facing to our advantage. While supply chain issues have certainly caused problems, our focus on local suppliers and artisans has enabled us to explore new avenues and exciting possibilities.

Similarly, with the lack of global trade shows, our in-house development team has had to be more proactive in searching out fresh inspiration and ideas for the latest designs. Our teams have worked very hard to do things differently, brainstorming and developing samples in new ways – and this collection may well be our most creative yet, a real step forward.

Ironically, expanding their creative horizons led to an approach more focused on our core values and ideals. Our inspiration for this year has been drawn from a source close to home – the textile traditions and rugged landscapes of the isles of Harris and Lewis.

With the uncertainties that we are all facing at the moment, we’ve put more of a focus on our Essentials range and our clothing and handmade gift catalogues, with a incomparable selection of versatile, high-quality country staples.

Within the store, a stopping off point for travellers and a must-see destination for tourists, there are fine foods and homewares to suit every pocket. Everyone enjoys purchasing quality products if offered a conducive environment and a luxury experience, and people always come away with a something, even a small treat like a nice cheese.

Today’s business landscape is perhaps more perilous than ever, but we’re well placed to tackle future challenges with our customary ingenuity, resilience and commitment to our ideals. My father Mark, who founded the business, was always incredibly positive. If he saw a problem, he sought a way through it and had an unwavering belief that the House of Bruar would prevail – and so do I.’ Patrick Birkbeck, Managing Director

‘OUR ESTABLISHED FOCUS ON LOCAL SUPPLIERS AND ARTISANS HAS ENABLED US TO EXPLORE NEW AVENUES AND EXCITING POSSIBILITIES’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The House of Bruar is known as ‘The Harrods of the North’ and has more visitors each year than Edinburgh Castle.

Founders Mark and Linda Birkbeck built up the successful chain Jumpers before creating The House of Bruar to achieve their dream of ‘providing the best of Scotland in Scotland’.

3

The business remains completely family owned, with father Mark Birkbeck and brothers Patrick and Tom at the helm.

4

The latest catalogue was photographed in the Hebrides, the home of Harris Tweed, giving the collections a real wow factor.

THE HOUSE OF BRUAR

By Blair Atholl Pitlochry Perthshire PH18 5TW +44 (0)1796 483236 houseofbruar.com thehouseofbruar

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No visit to the Highlands of Scotland is complete without stopping off at The House of Bruar

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GBB 2023 —— H

HOUSE OF COLOUR

Science-backed colour and style analysis that improves confidence

‘W

hat we offer is lifechanging to our clients. Once you know what suits your body and reflects your personality, while complementing you skin tone, you eradicate the senseless and sporadic shopping that has become so real for so many. The pandemic hit the UK business hard while in the USA, we grew threefold. In the last year, in the USA, we have grown from 100 to over 250 consultants and now have several high earning franchise teams, expanding into more states.

Our services rely on scientific evidence around colour and style

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theory, and we are confident that these are robust; however, we needed to modernise our brand. We have reviewed most of our services to ensure we are delivering the elevated, high-quality experience for which we are renowned, while also being as diverse and inclusive as possible. Sustainability has always been the bedrock of our proposition: “buy it once, wear it well” and understand what suits you so that you eliminate mistakes is our mantra. We have, as a community, focused on many repurposing “style from your wardrobe” events this year.

The next task is ensuring that our marketing in on point so that we attract new franchise business owners and more clients from a wider range of demographics. There are many independent stylists arising from the Instagram and Tik Tok market who have excellent campaigns and are attractive to our ideal client. They are providing them with material they are hungry for, so our challenge will be to do the same, but in our own way. We will be collaborating with like-minded brands, and our new website and shop is launching early this year.

Make-up is an integral part of our proposition, and a product that is currently undervalued in terms of its ease quality; this will also be a focus for this year.’

Claire Bannister, UK Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 Understanding what suits you can help you buy better and more sustainably

House of Colour began in the mid-1980s to help wider audiences understand how knowing their best colours and fashion style can help them look good and feel confident.

2

Clients can invest in the company’s advanced services to gain a deeper understanding of their style, including personal styling, makeup advice and personal shopping.

3

The company uses sciencebacked techniques to inspire clients, as well as taking into consideration their personality, proportions, body geometrics, and skin tone.

4

For those who want to go further, advisors will look through their wardrobe, with them, to assess what they don’t need, and where there are gaps to be plugged.

5

Over 84 percent of clients have told our franchisees they found their inner glow after experiencing the positive transformation of a House of Colour consultation.

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GBB 2023 —— H

HUNTSMORE

Architecture and project management practice creating beautiful period homes

‘W

e are a compact and highly focused team specialising in heritage properties across Kensington, Notting Hill and Holland Park, areas we know extremely well and love. As our reputation has spread, we’re working further afield, but still concentrating on important, listed buildings that people are drawn to and aspire to. What we do best is respond creatively to and preserve these buildings’ gracious grandeur, while transforming them into highly functional homes fit for contemporary living.

In 2022 we took on a magnificent, listed 2,000 sq/ft lateral apartment in Whitehall Court overlooking the Thames and Horse Guards Parade, with a dramatic circular dining room at its heart. The owners see themselves as custodians of the property’s heritage so we’ve been careful to keep its features intact. We are also in the process of refurbishing a period five-storey townhouse in Kensington, creating a new mini basement and complex AV system and making the building all-electric. People are increasingly conscious of their carbon footprints and EPC ratings so we make sure we meet their requirements while never compromising the buildings’ inherent characters – in this case, restoring the cornicing and retaining the original staircase.

This year we’ll continue developing a fabulous detached Edwardian home in Hampstead. We’re looking to install an underground pool or gym and garage, another prime example of how we marry old and new. Our expert team, including architects and project managers, means we can oversee a project from concept to completion. One of our strengths is our trusted network of property, design and construction professionals, which enabled us to overcome the challenges of labour and supply shortages in the last year or two. By keeping our team small, we represent great value and offer solutions that would normally need a far larger business to deliver. We’re immensely proud of nurturing the skills and craftsmanship we need to punch way above our weight.’

‘WHAT WE DO BEST IS RESPOND CREATIVELY TO AND PRESERVE THESE BUILDINGS’

Eamonn Agha, Director

GRACIOUS GRANDEUR’

TIMELINE

2014

Eamonn Agha founds Huntsmore, a Kensington-based residential property development business

2016

Huntsmore takes on RIBA-qualified architects to undertake architectural design and project management work

2018

The brand’s west London workshops enable it to design, manufacture, and install bespoke joinery and kitchens

2020

Huntsmore becomes a CIOB chartered building consultancy and a BIID registered design practice

2023

Following a successful Scottish project, Huntsmore is looking forward to growing all aspects of the business

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Huntsmore’s talented team transforms historic properties across Kensington and in select locations further afield

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Eamonn Agha was born and still lives in Kensington, where Huntsmore’s HQ is based.

Huntsmore is a gem of a business with a tight team of five, reflecting Eamonn Agha’s mission to supervise every detail of every project personally.

3

Huntsmore’s in-house bespoke joinery team means cabinets, kitchens, wardrobes, alcoves or boot rooms can be turned around in just six to eight weeks – a record time for exquisite craftsmanship.

4

Huntsmore rarely advertises, preferring discreet, wordof-mouth referrals – it has successfully taken on several projects recommended by Kensington-based Thackeray Art Gallery.

5

From its workshop in west London, Huntsmore produces all of its joinery, so that it reaches homes fast and with less impact on the environment.

HUNTSMORE 96 Kensington High Street London W8 4SG +44 (0)20 7484 5745 huntsmore.com huntsmore_design_build

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GBB 2023 —— I Chewton Glen

ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS

The Mayfair Townhouse

Magnificent individual hotels in beautiful settings

‘T

he long, hot summer of 2022 was one of the best in Britain for decades. The sun shone as life began to return to normal after the pandemic. From a commercial perspective it was probably our best summer ever. Our hotels in London and in the country were booming.

Our two London hotels, 11 Cadogan Gardens and The Mayfair Townhouse, benefited from the return to normality of Wimbledon, Ascot, the Chelsea Flower Show, and other important events, as well as the positive impact of the Platinum Jubilee.

‘IN 2022 OUR HOTELS IN LONDON AND Cliveden House

IN THE COUNTRY WERE BOOMING’

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 The country hotels, Cliveden House, Chewton Glen, and The Lygon Arms, all enjoyed the wonderful weather boosting a feeling of wellbeing. Across the collection we experienced the welcome return of international visitors after a couple of years away, their presence giving the hotels a sense of balance: a happy hotel is one where you’ve got a good mix of guests.

We were also pushing hard to fulfil our responsibilities under the Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) agenda, which covers everything from ecological measures to relationships with our local communities.

Nowaday s , the hotel business is almost as much about promoting individual destinations as showcasing the hotels themselves. We develop imaginative partnerships to create memorable experiences and exclusive opportunities for our guests – a recent example at 11 Cadogan Gardens was becoming a corporate patron of the nearby Saatchi Gallery. It’s a question of finding out what excites people and matching those expectations. Our Iconic Road Trip creates a bespoke journey linking the properties in our collection to experiences and adventures that delight and enthral.

But, ultimately, it is our team who make our guests want to return time and again, and it is they who make us as good as we are.’

Andrew Stembridge, Director

11 Cadogan Gardens was built by Lord Chelsea in the late 19th century as four separate Victorian town houses, which explains the myriad of corridors, staircases, and hallways throughout the hotel.

2

Chewton Glen has 70 beehives that are home to around two million bees. As well as producing honey for the hotel, they pollinate the beautiful wildflowers in the hotel grounds.

3

Cliveden House, which has hosted every monarch since George I, is surrounded by 376 acres of magnificent National Trust formal gardens and parkland.

4

The Lygon Arms is an original medieval coaching inn dating back to the 14th century.

It was formerly known as The White Hart.

5

The Mayfair Townhouse in London’s Half Moon Street is made up of 15 Georgian townhouses, seven of which are listed. It has 172 rooms and suites.

11 Cadogan Gardens

ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS iconicluxuryhotels.com

The Lygon Arms

TIMELINE

2012

Chewton Glen’s Treehouse Suites opened

by Olympian Ben Ainsley.

The brand buys Cliveden House, embarking on a huge restoration project

2016

Chewton Glen celebrates its 50th anniversary, and Iconic Luxury Hotels is founded with Cliveden, Chewton Glen, and 11 Cadogan Gardens, initially

2017

The Lygon Arms in Broadway joins the collection after a total transformation of the ancient Cotswolds coaching inn

2020

The Mayfair Townhouse, Iconic Luxury Hotel’s fifth hotel, opens in December as a stylish home for the modern traveller

2023

This year will see the opening The Chelsea Townhouse, having opened The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens in April 2021

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GBB 2023 —— I

THE ILLUSTRATED JEWELLER

An upcoming tattoo artist turned jewellery designer, inspired by the sea

‘I

’m a tattooist – I’ve had my shop Gilded Cage Tattoo Studio in Brighton for 14 years – but tattooing was the last industry to reopen after lockdown, so during that time I decided to turn my jewellery making hobby into a business. The biggest challenge was having the confidence to put myself out there in a whole new world. I had the basic skillset but I’ve learnt lots very quickly, from knowing what sort of gemstones to pair with which settings to how to use CAD software. I initially employed someone else to put my drawings into CAD but I found it frustrating

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The Illustrated Jeweller was founded by tattoo artist turned designer James Robinson in 2020.

Growing up on the Jurassic Coast, James always had a strong fascination with the calmness and power of the ocean, and its relationship with the moon and stars.

3

Inspired by his current Brighton base, James celebrates the symbolism of the sea in his designs, from sailors to swallows.

4

James’ jewellery is influenced by his greatgreat-grandfather Albert Self, who worked as a caulker for the Royal Navy and was lost at sea, vanishing on Christmas Day in 1885.

working to their timeline so now I do everything myself.

Launching a new business in one of the toughest economic climates, on top of being a fulltime tattooist, looking after my team, and educating myself about the process of bespoke jewellery making (casting, soldering, stone setting, polishing), has also been my greatest achievement. Although there are similarities between tattooing and jewellery, especially in terms of following a customer’s brief, I’ve gone from working with skin to metal. My designs are quite opulent so I have to figure out how to make them work in 3D. This next year is about brand identity and telling the story of the collection, which is based around my great-great-grandfather who was lost at sea, as well as sailors and the symbolism of swallows. In January, I’m building on the existing designs by launching new pieces that focus on the cosmic universe.

For instance, one cocktail ring is inspired by the Big Bang. It has a little secret star underneath the shank where someone can put their own birthstone as a place for affirmations and wishes, and another hidden explosion of stars that reveal themselves when seen in the right light.’

James Robinson, founder

5

Other nautical objects feature heavily throughout the collection. Each piece is emblematic and meaningful, representing, fable, belief or tales from the sea.

THE ILLUSTRATED JEWELLER theillustratedjeweller.com the_illustrated_jeweller

The jewellery collection includes ornate designs and unique stones

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GBB 2023 —— BOOKS

theLIST

Eight Authors to Dive Into in 2023 Up your reading arsenal this year, says DOROTHY KOOMSON

As well as single-handedly running TOKEN, a literary and arts print magazine featuring work by under-represented writers and artists, Sara Jafari is a writer, essayist and children’s book publisher. Sara’s heart-warming and insightful debut romance novel was published in 2021. Funny and well-observed, her second novel, People Change, about two young people trying to rekindle their relationship when they meet again after being separated for several years, will be published this year. Penguin, £8.99

3

NADINE MATHESON

Londoner Nadine Matheson began at the BBC and is now a practising criminal defence lawyer. In 2016, she won the City University Crime Writing Competition, the prize for which was completing the Creative Writing MA at City, University of London. As a result of the course, Nadine wrote her bestselling debut crime novel, The Jigsaw Man, which was published in 2021 and has been optioned for TV. The Binding Room, the heart-stopping sequel, will be published in paperback later this year. HQ, £14.99

2

JENDELLA BENSON

The paperback for Jendella Benson’s debut novel Hope & Glory, which has been optioned for the screen, will be published this year. The story of a woman who returns to London from LA after her father dies is funny, sad and touching. Jendella is head of editorial at Black Ballad, the award-winning digital platform for Black women. Her visual work has been exhibited at the House of Commons, Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery and the International Center of Photography in New York. Hachette, £9.99

4

KIA ABDULLAH

Kia Abdullah left her job to become a writer and has since written for various publications including The Guardian, The New York Times, Asian Woman and the BBC. Kia is also the founder of Asian Booklist, a nonprofit organisation that advocates for diversity in publishing. Her first book, Take It Back, was published in 2019.

Her fourth novel, out this year, is Those People Next Door, a tense, clever tale about the seething underbelly of a picture-perfect suburban town. HQ, £14.99

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

1

SARA JAFARI

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5

LOLA JAYE

Published in 2022, The Attic Child is Lola Jaye’s sixth novel. The sweeping historical tale, inspired by an Edwardian picture she found of an African child, has received great acclaim and become an ebook number one bestseller. Lola is a registered psychotherapist as well as author and inspirational speaker. She has written for CNN, HuffPost and the BBC, and regularly speaks on issues of mental health, racism and mental wellbeing.

Pan Macmillan, £14.99

PHOTOS: UNSPLASH

7

FRANCES MENSAH WILLIAMS

Frances Mensah Williams, from London, writes romantic comedy fiction set in England or Ghana, which often revolves around humorous culture clashes. As well as being an author, Frances is an award-winning entrepreneur and executive coach who has written two nonfiction careers books. Her book Strictly Friends, the story of a woman caught between two men when she decides to track down her son’s absent father, will be published this year. Lake Union, £8.99

6

ONYI NWABINELI

After growing up in Glasgow, the Isle of Man and Newcastle, Onyi Nwabineli now lives in London. As well as co-founding Surviving Out Loud, a fund that provides support for survivors of sexual assault, Onyi started Black Pens, a writing retreat for Black women. Her debut novel, Someday, Maybe, a breathtaking tale of grief, love and learning to find yourself after your world is shattered, was published last year. The paperback will be published this year and Onyi is working on her next book. Oneworld, £16.99

8

CHRISTIE J NEWPORT

Born in Preston, Christie J Newport now lives in Northumberland. She developed a rare illness as a child and found reading and creating stories an escape. Over the years Christie honed her writing skills through various courses until she finally realised her dream of setting a psychological thriller in her home city when she won the Joffe Books Prize for Crime Writers of Colour. Her first novel, a twisty thriller called The Raven's Mark, was published in 2022.

Her second book will be published this year. Joffe Books, £8.99

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GBB 2023

JAMB 172

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN 174 JOHN SMEDLEY 176

JOSEPH CHEANEY & SONS 180 KIKI MCDONOUGH 182

THE KNIGHTSBRIDGE ESTATE 184

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GBB 2023 —— J

JAMB

The finest antique and reproduction fireplaces, lighting and furniture

‘W

e started life as antique dealers, then set up boutique bespoke workshops where we crafted our own lighting and chimney pieces. A lot of our aesthetic is based on the English country house, specifically the patina of objects. So, it’s not just techniques or using and preserving skills which have been around for 1,000 years. It’s also very much about how we treat each surface of the object and make them fit in seamlessly with sleepy country house environments.

Last year was monumental for us. We brought many more varied and interesting products to market.

This included branching out with a furniture collection, which is growing enormously, particularly our mirror collection. We have great

Jamb’s designs are loved for their quintessential British look and feel

staff and I find it intoxicating how enthusiastic they are about the business. Also, for the first time in our 21-year history, we’ve just taken on our first ever decorating job, led by my wife and Jamb co-founder Charlotte.

While we feel absolutely exhausted by 2021 and, of course, there have been challenges, but I am also utterly excited and thrilled by what we achieved in 2022. There is nothing I would change. It’s a joy to be out of the Covid era and back to full throttle. The freedom we now have has given birth to a lot more travel this year so we have been meeting clients. Also, travel is great design inspiration for us both.

We are also opening new sites in both Texas and Chicago. This adds to the showrooms we already have in New York, Atlanta, LA and Palm Beach. Other than that, a lot of what we’ve done recently has been at such a frenetic pace. So, we are looking forward to taking stock and bedding in all that was achieved last year.’

Will Fisher, co-founder

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

Jamb’s warehouse is located in an old tank factory.

The brand is named after the jamb of a fireplace.

Jamb named its Bunny mantle after the founders’ daughter, Eliza – Bunny is her middle name.

The brand has the tallest and shortest members of staff on their reception desk.

There is one foot and one inch between them.

5

In 2022, the brand celebrated its 21st birthday – it was founded in 2001.

JAMB 95–97 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8PH +44 (0)20 7730 2122 jamb.co.uk jamb_london

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GBB 2023 —— J

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN

The 225-year-old West End site rediscovering its trusted pharmacy touch

A‘

s a single site, our biggest challenge during Covid was the drastic drop in footfall.

Two thirds of our customers were commuters and tourists who just stopped coming.

Also, the government scrapped the VAT Retail Export Scheme programme, which gave us invaluable insight into who our customers were, where they came from and what they spent.

However, having just one site also meant we could be super agile. We adapted fast, staying open as a pharmacy and offering in-store GP, osteopath, dentist and travel clinics. We also registered to

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

During World War II John Bell & Croyden was open 24/7 to help its customers.

Prior to becoming a pharmacy, the current store location on Wigmore Street was a dance hall.

The royal oil, used to anoint the monarch’s palms, head and chest during Coronation Ceremonies, is kept in a safe at John Bell & Croyden.

become a vaccination centre, giving a thousand a week, and offering customers a really good reason to come into the store.

We’ve always stocked brands that are harder to find that people come to us specifically for. Take Skin Design London, which we were the first to launch in a brick-and-mortar site with our own treatment rooms.

Customers might come in to solve a specific health problem, but they also trust us with that pharmacy authority to supply seriously efficacious products.

I’m very proud of the fact that we reduced our losses as much as we did when nobody was coming into the West End. We got to know our local customers and realised how much everyone appreciated us looking after them and being here to help. We rediscovered our pharmacy touch and, 225 years on, our ethos remains firm – never just to seek a sale but to give customers trustworthy, impartial, completely truthful advice on medicines and products alike.

Our new normal is less footfall but I’m pretty optimistic. Even though our local customers do live in an affluent area they can still be affected by the cost-of-living crisis, however staying healthy is increasingly a priority rather than a luxury, so we’re well placed to cope with what 2023 throws at us.’

4 5

John Bell & Croyden was the first brick and mortar store to bring the Bioderma brand to the UK.

The Wigmore Street pharmacy was well placed to help its customers throughout the pandemic

Until the last century, all pharmaceutical drugs were compounded on site.

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN 50-54 Wigmore Street London W1U 2AU +44 (020) 7935 5555 johnbellcroyden.co.uk johnbellandcroyden

Robin Winfield, Operations Director

TIMELINE

1798

John Bell opens his pharmacy on Oxford Street

1841

His son, Jacob Bell, founds the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain

1909

John Bell & Croyden is granted its first Royal Warrant, held until 2022

1912

John Bell & Croyden moves to its new location on Wigmore Street

2023

The launch of the 225 years Anniversary Award Competition

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GBB 2023 —— J

JOHN SMEDLEY Fine handcrafted knitwear, made in England

‘T

he core of our business is British craftship and it’s there that we have found the biggest challenge.

Our craftspeople have the highest level of expertise in knitting, hand sewing and mending, and these are integral elements of how we craft such beautiful products. But these skills could be at risk as new generations see less value in these artisan areas of manufacturing. We must work hard to attract them to our business and pass down the legacy of skills from our team.

We received a morale boost in 2021 when the former Prince of Wales, now King Charles III, granted us his Royal Warrant of Appointment for Fine Knitwear.

To celebrate, we had the idea of sourcing British wool from the Duchy of Cornwall estates and making jumpers from it.

As it turned out, this was no easy task – mainly because the supply chain did not exist! The big breakthrough was contacting a wool spinner who knew the farmers, and sourcing wool from Dorset and Cheviot sheep flocks on the Duchy farms. Our project eventually resulted in a range of jumpers for men and women, available from our stores and online. And the supply chain from sheep to shop is only 300 miles.

As a manufacturer with factories in Derbyshire and Yorkshire, we face unprecedented energy costs. These are predicted to rocket from around £400,000 to over £1.8m in the next 12 months if the energy market

Made in England from the finest natural fibres, John Smedley has over 200 years of experience finessing its knitwear

TIMELINE

1784

The knitwear company is founded by John Smedley in Lea Mills, Derbyshire. It was the ideal setting, as the nearby brook provided power and running water

2013

John Smedley receives the Royal Warrant of Appointment from HRH Queen Elizabeth II for being a ‘Manufacturer of Fine Knitwear’

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2019

In celebration of its 235-year anniversary, John Smedley launches its most sustainable collection to date of British wool garments

2021

The additional Royal Warrant of Appointment is granted

by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales for fine knitwear

2022

John Smedley launches a special collection of British garments with wool sourced from the Duchy of Cornwall estate

‘WE HAD THE IDEA OF SOURCING WOOL FROM THE DUCHY OF CORNWALL ESTATES AND MAKING JUMPERS’ does not better balance supply and demand, and the government does not apply a price cap for businesses in winter 2023. We recently installed solar panels, and heat recovery and exchange technology in our dyehouse, but neither can seriously mitigate the cost increases. In the short term, we are looking to rearrange our manufacturing layout to save energy; in the longer term, further investment in energy-saving technologies is on the cards.’

Ian Maclean, Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

John Smedley is the oldest factory still manufacturing anywhere in the world.

The company has the largest archive of knitted garments globally, with over 10,000 items dating back to 1784.

John Smedley has made knitwear for numerous royal families, from the British royals to the Emperor of Japan.

The Long John is rumoured to have been invented by John Smedley himself, with the name being a derivative of his.

John Smedley is still a family run business, with the 8th generation Ian Maclean MBE now at the helm as Managing Director.

JOHN SMEDLEY LTD Lea Mills, Matlock Derbyshire DE4 5AG +44 (0)1629 534571 johnsmedley.com johnsmedleyknitwear

GBB 2023 —— FASHION

theLIST

Eight Fashion Brands That Manufacture in the UK British-made luxury is well and thriving, says CHARLIE COLVILLE

3

HOLLAND COOPER

Proudly making its signature tailored tweed coats and jackets (plus its hats) in Britain, Holland Cooper creates garments inspired by the great outdoors, using heritage British fabrics. hollandcooper.com

1

EDELINE LEE

Made by hand in England, Edeline Lee’s sophisticated womenswear is made with a modern 'Future Lady' in mind.

Her designs, which regularly feature at LFW, are coveted among the style set. edelinelee.com

2

SUNSPEL

With a 30-strong team at its Long Eaton factory making T-shirts, Sunspel also crafts its cashmere sweaters in Scotland, footwear in Northampton, socks in Derby, and its belts in Rutland. sunspel.com

4

TROY LONDON

Founded by sisters Rosie van Cutsem and Lucia Ruck Keene in 2013, TROY London makes its collections of classic country-inspired coats, shirts, knitwear and accessories partnership with UK-based mills and craftspeople. troylondon.com

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5

CAWLEY STUDIO

Founded in 2017 by Hannah Cawley, Cawley Studio creates two collections a year using natural materials (cotton, linen, wool and sheepskin). Each garment is designed, hand cut and constructed in London. cawleystudio.com

7

BERJOAN

Designed by founder Charlotte Cameron in Oxfordshire, Berjoan’s collections are made in small batches in the UK using low-impact and natural fibre textiles sourced from mills across Europe. berjoan.co.uk

6

L SAHA

For SS23, luxury label L Saha unveiled a collection created in its London atelier, made from natural fabrics designed to have a minimal environmental footprint. lsaha.co.uk

8

JOHN SMEDLEY

Founded in 1784, John Smedley has been making the finest knitwear in its factory in Lea Mills, Derbyshire, ever since.

It's become renowned for its merino wool and Sea Island cotton styles. johnsmedley.com

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GBB 2023 —— J

JOSEPH CHEANEY & SONS

Fine leather footwear handcrafted in Northamptonshire

‘T

he overriding issue for us over the last 12 months has been keeping pace with increasing demand. We make all our footwear at our factory in Northamptonshire so we’re heavily dependent on the highly skilled craft workforce that we employ. During the pandemic there were periods when the factory – and all of our shops – were shut, so as staff left or retired there was no pressure to immediately replace them.

By the time we started up again post-pandemic we had lost about 20 percent of our headcount.

The challenge now is to accelerate our staffing, recruitment and training so that we can meet demand as it regrows.

In normal times, brands are continually looking at new ways to grow their business. During the pandemic, however, we had to suspend our growth strategy and concentrate on surviving. We are a resilient business and strive to be better all the time – this is what gets us through times of crisis.

We sell our footwear through three channels: wholesale, retail and e-commerce, and it is this diversified distribution that significantly strengthens the business. All three channels are growing again as we move beyond the pandemic.

One significant advantage we have is that our footwear is made from start to finish in our Northamptonshire factory and it

Despite challenges from the pandemic and supply chains, Cheaney is confident of its continued resilience and success

TIMELINE

1886

The brand is founded by Joseph Cheaney. For the first 80 years, it makes shoes for some of the world’s finest retailers

1896

Alongside his son Arthur, Joseph moves the brand to its factory in Desborough, where it’s still located today

1964

Joseph Humphrey Cheaney, the founder’s grandson, sells the company to Church’s Shoes

2009

Cousins William and Jonathan Church buy the company and open its first retail store two years later

2016

Cheaney wins the Queen’s Award for Enterprise: International Trade on the occasion of Elizabeth II’s 90th birthday

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‘DURING THE PANDEMIC WE HAD TO SUSPEND OUR GROWTH STRATEGY AND CONCENTRATE ON SURVIVING’ is this “Made in England” badge that is so important, particularly in markets like Japan where this attribute is highly valued.

The biggest challenge on the horizon is price: we face inflationary increases from our raw material suppliers that we will have to reflect in our own prices and of course that is concerning. But we are confident in our future and can see strong recovery ahead of us.’

William Church, Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

It takes eight to ten weeks to craft a pair of Cheaney shoes.

Every shoe is entirely handcrafted by up to 200 talented craftspeople.

Cheaney shoes can be fully repaired due to the Goodyear Welt construction.

The brand uses the finest natural materials from tanneries in the UK and Europe, specialist oiled leathers from the US, and kudu leather from Africa.

5

Northamptonshire’s shoemaking tradition can be traced back centuries with shoemakers originally working from their outhouses.

CHEANEY SHOES LTD, 69 Rushton Road, Desborough, Northamptonshire NN14 2RR +44 (0)1536 760383 cheaney.co.uk josephcheaney

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GBB 2023 —— K

KIKI MCDONOUGH Timeless, wearable jewellery that puts a spring in your step

‘L

ast year was about reinventing ourselves. In 2022 we really upped our social media strategy and engaged with more people via lots of press coverage. The periods of lockdown over the past couple of years also accelerated online shopping by about four! That was great for me and now people really trust my online brand. We’re also very good at getting jewellery to people fast.

I feel my creativity has really bloomed again this year as I’ve done four or five new collections, Firefly being the most popular. It has a few diamonds but it’s not too blingy – I don’t do statement jewellery. Firefly is unashamedly pretty and easy to wear, and will give you a spring in your step without overwhelming your personality.

I’ve expanded my existing collections and I do a range called Kiki Uniques every year – one-off designs around a beautiful stone. I did a pair of mandarin garnet earrings, the most beautiful orange, and while so many of us wear black in winter we need colour to brighten our faces up. This year I’ve built my Uniques line around pink and blue tourmalines, aquamarines, tanzanites, morganites and fire opals, which I love.

I’ve really enjoyed the variety of our wholesale partnerships with Mappin & Webb, Farfetch, Fortnum & Mason and also Neiman Marcus in the US because they bring different people to the brand. I want to continue our

TIMELINE

1985

Kiki McDonough London is formed by its founder and creative director Kiki McDonough

1992

One of Kiki’s most popular designs, Double Ovals, launches, inspired by costumes in the Sleeping Beauty ballet

1995

Kiki’s first ever design, a pair of crystal heart earrings, are put on display in the V&A Museum

2007

The brand moves to its flagship store just off Sloane Square and launches globally online

2015

Kiki launches her one-of-a-kind collection, Special Editions, known now as Kiki Uniques

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‘I FEEL MY CREATIVITY HAS REALLY BLOOMED AGAIN THIS YEAR AS I’VE DONE FOUR OR FIVE NEW COLLECTIONS’ expansion into the US, finding the right outlets for us rather than rushing into having our own shop.

If I have one gripe, it’s with the government ’s extraordinary decision to remove VAT exemptions for international shoppers visiting the UK – once we start losing customers to Paris and Milan I fear they may never come back. But I try to stay optimistic and next year I’m excited to be branching out onto the Arvia, a new luxury cruise liner, which is a real adventure.’

Kiki McDonough, founder and Creative Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Kiki is a fifth-generation jeweller and the only woman in that line.

She supports several charities and organisations including: patron of the Royal Opera House; business mentor for The Princes’ Trust; trustee of the New English Ballet Theatre.

3

Ballet is a source of key inspiration for Kiki – her favourite is La Bayadère and she has a pair of Dame Margot Fonteyn’s signed ballet shoes.

4

Kiki’s first tiara was chosen for Sotheby’s Tiara Exhibition in honour of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. Kiki also gave a talk on the history of royal and aristocratic tiaras.

5

Encouraged to watch Match of the Day by her son, it’s now Kiki’s favourite programme and she’s a fanatical Liverpool FC supporter.

Kiki McDonough jewels are loved for their wearability and joyful use of coloured stones

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KIKI MCDONOUGH 12 Symons Street London SW3 2TJ +44 (0)20 7730 3323 kiki.co.uk kikimcdonough

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GBB 2023 —— K

THE KNIGHTSBRIDGE ESTATE

Rebuilding a sense of community in the heart of London

‘T

he ambitious redevelopment of the northern end of The Knightsbridge Estate is reaching its conclusion.

It’s nothing less than a complete reinvigoration of a historic part of London for the 21st century. At The Olayan Group, as owners of the Estate, we can see that business in the area is improving, as we begin to recover from the pandemic.

Knightsbridge in general relies on tourism and, with tourists coming back, footfall numbers are now up above pre-Covid levels, so it is definitely moving in the right direction. As the landlord, we at the Estate are working hard to maintain good relationships with our tenants.

The highlight of 2022 was the opening in July of Apple’s new flagship store. It occupies a prestigious five-bay, double-height site on Brompton Road between Burberry and the new entrance to Knightsbridge Underground Station.

Apple says that this is the most sustainable store it has yet created. The terrazzo flooring, for example, is made entirely from responsibly sourced materials.

Apple is also keen to present the new store as a resource to the local community, by staging events, talks, and seminars. This is something close to our heart as Knightsbridge is a magnet for tourists but also a thriving community with a large local population.

This year will see the Estate’s 33 residential rental properties come to market, ranging from one- to four-bedroom apartments, fully fitted out by interior designers Taylor Howes. We’re offering the apartments for rental as we are very keen that it should be a ‘lights-on’ living community rather than a moribund investment property.

At the same time, the restaurant is under offer and the office space is filling up. The future for the historic Knightsbridge Estate looks bright.’

‘A COMPLETE REINVIGORATION OF A HISTORIC PART OF LONDON

Jonathan Shelton, Managing Director and Head of Real Estate – Europe, Olayan Group

FOR THE 21ST CENTURY’

TIMELINE

1800 S

The buildings that make up the Estate date back to the late 19th Century

2010

The Estate is purchased by the current owners, The Olayan Group

2016

Planning permission granted to redevelop one third of the Estate

2021

Burberry opens its flagship store at 1 Sloane Street

2022

Apple opens its flagship store on Brompton Road

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Hooper’s Court, home to a new 67,000 sq/ft office building, is named after John Hooper, a prominent local 18th century market gardener.

2

The honeysuckle design on the enamel tiles at One Hooper’s Court, as well as on the tiles in the pedestrian walkway, is also inspired by John Hooper.

3

The northern end of the Knightsbridge Estate looks totally unchanged from street level, but behind the period façades is an entirely new building.

4 5

The entire development is serviced by an elaborate, subterranean service yard three levels below ground.

Knightsbridge Underground’s original entrance on Basil Street, is now the portal to a rooftop restaurant. The entrance was relocated with the invention of the escalator.

THE KNIGHTSBRIDGE ESTATE Brompton Road London SW3 1DE +44 (0)20 7290 2388 theknightsbridgeestate.co.uk theknightsbridgeestate

The Knightsbridge Estate encompasses a spectacular 3.5 acre site in the heart of London

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LM

GBB 2023

LAKES BY YOO 188 LAST DROP 190

LIFE KITCHENS 192 LINLEY 194

LOUISE BRADLEY 198

MARIAN BOSWALL LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS 200

MARTIN KEMP DESIGN 202

MOLTON BROWN 204

MR & MRS SMITH 206

MULBERRY 208

MUSTO 210

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GBB 2023 —— L

THE LAKES

BY YOO

The perfect Cotswolds investment to explore, relax and create memories together

‘T

he Lakes is a very personal concept: I dreamt of bringing up children in the country but had a full-time role in London. I loved travelling, business, design, building things and started the YOO business with Philippe Starck, creating a hundred great £100 million+ projects in 46 countries. People recognise value through design: YOO is now the largest residential brand in the world.

Communities like Club Med and Mustique inspired me when I was younger. When the Cotswolds were on the rise, I had the idea to

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Across 850 acres of lakes, meadows and woodlands, 500,000 trees have been planted and wildlife habitats preserved – sustainability and rewilding are priorities.

create an oasis where families of like-minded friends can get an injection of country: nature, rest and recuperation, relaxing spa-time, imagination, dreaming, creativity, exercise and learning – sailing, fishing, biking, bushcraft. Read, write, swim, be active in kayaks or on zip-wires with your kids, have coffee, relax by beautiful lakes. All in complete safety, 90 minutes from London. Forget the hassles of a country cottage: go where your fridge is full and your fire is lit.

I found an old Cotswolds quarry, where the dream became reality.

Our market is cash-rich, time-poor: they invest in a desirable lifestyle, not fearing the economic cycle, but make money on their property – eight to ten percent compound growth since 2007. Some owners choose to rent out their houses through us – that’s cash back on their asset, and capital growth over time.

This year, our adjacent Cotswold Waters will be a natural progression: the same model as The Lakes, primarily family-orientated ownership, a degree of rental, and renting on behalf of owners. We’ve built cabins that we rent out, or that people can buy and then rent out. We’ve built suites which divide into ‘hotel rooms’ that people can rent without needing to book out a whole house. We also run cabins for corporate retreats, team-building and launches for Lamborghini, Land Rover and Google.’

2

The daring can take on our woodland Tree Top Adventure, a suspended rope-course complete with climbing wall, leap of faith and spectacular zip-wire across one of 11 lakes.

3 4

The Lakes by YOO is home to an art park featuring work

by David Hockney, KAWS, and Yoshitomo Nara.

The estate boasts an on-site mini-farm, where all the animals including goats and resident pigs, Frank and Kevin, have been rescued.

5

Design partners include Kate Moss, Philippe Starck, Kelly Hoppen and Jade Jagger.

THE LAKES BY YOO High Street, Lechlade Gloucestershire GL7 3DT +44 (0)1367 254260 thelakesbyyoo.com lakes_byyoo

The Lakes By YOO were designed as a natural oasis for families, just 90 minutes from London

John Hitchcox, founder

TIMELINE

2007

The Lakes by YOO opens, offering sustainable living in a safe and serene family setting in the Cotswolds, with design by awardwinning YOO Studio

2015

The interiors of The Barn House are designed by Kate Moss, with artworks

by Damien Hirst and original Terry O’Neill photographs

2021

The Lakes by YOO is officially classified as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), documenting its thriving biodiversity

2021

Neighbouring Cotswolds Waters launches with four lakes, 77 lakeside homes, 63 lakefront apartments, all in The Lakes by YOO style

2022

The Lakes by YOO wins the Marie Claire UK Sustainability Award for ‘Best for a Sustainable Holiday with Kids (UK)’

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GBB 2023 —— L

THE LAST DROP

Seeking out and bottling remarkable spirits from around the globe

‘W

e seek out and bottle rare spirits in small volumes. Rarity and age are supporting pillars for how good they taste; the liquid quality matters more than any age statement; age is a quality not a number. Discerning collectors can only appreciate what they collect by drinking – and the greatest pleasure is sharing.

Last year saw a new bottle and packaging, bringing new magic to how we present our releases. But one of our founding principles still holds true: the bottle is a vessel for the magic within and we showcase remarkable liquids.

We also travelled again to meet people, particularly in the USA, home of Sazerac, our owners since 2016, where the appetite for spirits has grown exponentially.

We love the wonderful spirits we discover, but there’s always pressure – where’s the next release coming from?

So we founded The Last Drop Assembly, a small international panel of blenders from different aged spirits categories; experts who create bespoke signature blends, future-proofing our business. This year they will finally gather in person.

We loved the inaugural Worshipful Company of Distillers One of One charity

The Last Drop selects the finest spirits from around the world for its limited-edition releases

TIMELINE

2008

The Last Drop Distillers is founded by renowned pioneers of the spirits industry, James Espey, Tom Jago and Peter Fleck

2010

Rebecca Jago and Beanie Espey, daughters of co-founders Tom and James, join the company as secondgeneration founders

2016

The Last Drop joins the US-based Sazerac Company, expanding its global footprint while maintaining its creative independence

2018

Celebrates its 10th anniversary with the creation of Tom’s Blend No 1: an 18-year-old blended whisky, it’s the not-for-sale house pour

2021

The First Signature Blend is released, a 50-year-old blended Scotch created by legendary master blender Colin Scott

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‘AGE IS A QUALITY NOT A NUMBER’ auction, which raised over £3 million. Our successful bidders came to Scotland to create their own unique blended whisky.

We now have a bi-annual release pattern: spring brings three small curated bottlings (last year a Japanese whisky, a single malt Scotch and a cognac), and autumn promises a signature blend from an Assembly member (Colin Scott’s 50-year-old signature blend came in 2021, and it was Drew Mayville’s turn in 2022, the first in our new bottle).

Every year is different. We have no permanent collection – a release ends when the bottles run out. We don’t create scarcity; whether a release is 20 bottles or 200, that’s all there is. Our original slogan, “before there is no more”, still resonates.’

Rebecca Jago, Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The Last Drop has been referred to as the ‘Indiana Jones of the spirits world’, seeking out the rarest liquids, from Scotch and cognac to bourbon, rum and beyond.

2

One of the oldest discoveries

by The Last Drop was an 1870 Old Colheita tawny port, released as the Centenario duo of ports from 1870 and 1970.

3 4

The Last Drop’s unique intuitive decanter, Phoebe, is used to pour Tom’s Blend at events, and is named after Rebecca Jago’s daughter.

Before World War II, a single barrel of 1925 Grande Champagne cognac was hidden behind a wall, lying undiscovered until 2017. It was bottled in 2018 at 93 years – then the same age as co-founder Tom Jago.

5

The formation of the Assembly, a panel of experts from the worlds of Scotch, Irish, Indian and American whiskies, cognac and rum, inspires The Last Drop’s mission to create remarkable spirits, as well as curating them.

THE LAST DROP DISTILLERS 60 Marina Place, Hampton Wick Kingston upon Thames KT1 4BH +44 (0)1932 252100 lastdropdistillers.com lastdropdistillers

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GBB 2023 —— L

LIFE KITCHENS Bringing kitchens for living to Wimbledon High Street

‘L

ife Kitchens is a family business that manufactures all kitchens, work surfaces, paint and accessories in its headquarters in County Durham. We are a luxury kitchen brand with a fresh new approach.

While many London-based brands are largely classic in style, and others modern, Life’s differentiator is its hugely diverse and innovative product collection that caters to any style and a wide range of budgets.

Our ethos is to understand the lives at the centre of the kitchen, and allow the customer to entirely tailor

‘OUR NEW SHOWROOM GIVES PEOPLE THE CHANCE TO Life Kitchens offers a hugely diverse mix of design options, for all tastes and styles

EXPERIENCE AND INTERACT WITH OUR COLLECTIONS, AN OPPORTUNITY YOU SIMPLY CANNOT REPLICATE ONLINE’

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Life is a fifth-generation, British family business, with roots that trace back over 110 years – so, rest assured, they know a thing or two about kitchens.

the design around their lifestyle, mixing and matching products to create their own custom look.

Continuing this approach, Life is also renowned for its virtual reality theatre where the customer can literally step into its new designs through the use of a 4D headset – they can walk around, open doors, reach for the top shelf, turn on the taps and truly try before they buy.

We are passionate about re-energising the high-street.

So, after a successful four years, tackling numerous unprecedented obstacles, Life has launched a second showroom in bustling Wimbledon Village. Our new showroom gives people the chance to experience and interact with our collections, an opportunity you simply cannot replicate online.

And, most importantly for today’s customer, we have introduced displays beyond the kitchen, into home offices, utility rooms and home bars.

Life is also delighted to have partnered with Lick Paints to add another dimension to customer design consultations. This means designers can now help customers really to see the full potential of the entire space come together.

Furthermore, as part of Life’s sustainability programme to be fully net zero by 2050, we have pledged to offset the carbon footprint of our new showroom by planting trees in conjunction with Ecologi. We can’t wait to see the opportunities our new space will bring.’

2

Customers love trying before they buy in virtual reality, which allows users to immerse themselves in their new kitchen space in all its glory.

3

The traditional pantry has made a comeback thanks to the Downton Abbey effect, and most of Life’s designs aren’t complete without a beautiful, practical kitchen pantry.

4 5

The sweet Dry Rose pastel and the rich, jewel tones of Copse Green are two of the brand’s most popular colours.

Life have created kitchens for some famous names – from Winter Olympian Chemmy Alcott, to food writer, broadcaster, and MasterChef critic William Sitwell.

ABOVE AND BELOW: The 1909 collection

LIFE KITCHENS Wimbledon Village Showroom: 3 High Street, Wimbledon London SW19 5DX Waterloo Showroom: Railway Arch 213 Newnham Terrace London SE1 7DR Burnham Showroom: By appointment only +44 (0)20 3972 0150 life-kitchens.co.uk

Oli Stephenson, director

TIMELINE

2018

Opens its first Waterloo showroom, offering the most diverse collection and VR service, to immerse customers in the design process

2019

Life is awarded the Kitchen Showroom of the Year prize

by BKU magazine at its 5th annual awards

2019

Life’s Supper Clubs offer a new immersive way for customers to choose their kitchen while professional chefs cook live

2021

The ‘Shaped by Design’ customisable collection launches, bringing a new level of personalisation to the kitchen, with over 2,500 design variations

2022

Opens its Wimbledon Showroom, with two floors of modern and classic designs, including London’s largest 1909 kitchen collection

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GBB 2023 —— L

LINLEY

Bespoke furniture and interior design brand moving with the times

‘W

e’ve not been short of extinction-level hazards over the last half decade, nor have we been insulated from their impacts at Linley, but we have managed and mitigated our way through largely intact.

Though we are a venerable brand with a unique narrative, we recognised that, like anyone else operating in a discretionary and luxury industry amid the turbulence, that we have no divine right to exist – only that which we established for ourselves by offering seductive, categorydefining products and services.

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DID YOU KNOW?

So, we recalibrated our business, retaining the core values David established decades ago, eschewing triviality, but making sensible adaptations as the world changed abruptly. For example, our retail channel pivoted into the sudden preparedness of our customers to shop online for grander items. Our bespoke, kitchens, cabinetry and interior design businesses beamed themselves virtually into our customers’ homes, where the increasing dwell time had a natural link to our interiors proposition.

Within the construct of our business model, changes were still widespread as we engineered a more robust enterprise capable of withstanding debilitating challenges while remaining as client-centric as ever.

Embracing change, when very little remained static, served us well.

Though we are a brand steeped in traditions and craftsmanship, our DNA has always sought advantage through cutting-edge technology and so judicious, on-brand change is a familiar companion.

Sometimes, too, there is just no substitute for sheer graft, ingenuity and resilience for which we credit our colleagues.

We’ve seen a resurgence in demand over the last six months allowing us to focus once again on delighting our customers, eventing and interacting. We’ve been privileged to secure work in the finest homes and most extraordinary yachts in the world.

It’s refreshing to be able to return to our prime motivation of design, craftsmanship and engineering.’

1

David Linley was the son of Princess Margaret (sister of Queen Elizabeth II) and photographer Lord Snowdon.

From an early age, David’s parents nurtured and encouraged his creativity.

2

The brand’s flagship store, on Pimlico Road, used to be home to the famous Chelsea Bun House. The bun ovens are still in the basement.

3

Linley designed and crafted the furniture in M’s office and bathroom in the Bond film Casino Royale, and also supplied M’s desk accessories in Quantum of Solace.

4

The brand is known for designing exceptional pieces with ‘secret drawers’ adding an element of surprise and romance. The drawers are a feat of engineering, testing even the most talented of craftsmen.

5

Linley has been commissioned everywhere from the Wimbledon players’ lounge to the QEII, from pied-àterres to palaces.

The pandemic forced Linley to be reactive and resilient, resulting in a stronger and more successful brand

LINLEY 60 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8LP +44 (0)20 8068 4206 davidlinley.com linleylondon

Kevin Blumenthal, COO and CFO

TIMELINE

1985

Brand officially founded

by David Linley, starting with bespoke commissions showcasing distinctive design

1992

Opens a showroom on Pimlico Road where the headquarters, design centre and flagship store remain to this day

1997

Added fitted kitchens and cabinetry divisions (wine rooms, libraries, dressing rooms etc) to the portfolio, handmade and bespoke

2007

As a natural extension of the company and following requests from clients, Linley Interior Design launches

2018

The company undertakes its first acquisition, absorbing Keech Green, the London architectural interiors company

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GBB 2023 —— DESIGN

theLIST

10 Iconic Pieces of British Design PRIYA KHANCHANDANI, head of curatorial at the Design Museum, chooses her stand-out products

BETHAN LAURA WOOD

Designed first as an investigation into handles, Bethan developed the Meisen’s colourful forms, inspired

by Meisen kimonos.

2

ANTELOPE CHAIR ERNEST RACE

Designed in 1951, this recalls Windsor side chairs with the vertical slats at the back, while remaining playful in its sculptural form and ball feet.

4

3

ANGLEPOISE LAMP

GEORGE CARWARDINE

The demand for this four-spring lamp designed by George Carwardine almost immediately outstripped his supply capabilities. The Model 1208 is the popular form of this lamp that took the world by storm.

MY BEAUTIFUL BACKSIDE SOFA DOSHI LEVIEN

Launched by Moroso and Doshi Levien during Milan Design Week 2008, it’s inspired by a miniature painting of an Indian princess surrounded by cushions.

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THE DEFINITION OF BRITISHNESS IS VERY AMBIGUOUS, SO PRIYA CHOSE THESE PRODUCTS ACCORDING TO THE PLACE OF RESIDENCE OF THE DESIGNER EVEN IF THE PRODUCT MAY HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED BY AN INTERNATIONAL BRAND

1

MEISEN CABINET

5

6

FALCON ENAMELWARE

TEXTILE FOR IKEA

JOE KLEINER & SONS

THE DEFINITION OF BRITISHNESS IS VERY AMBIGUOUS, SO PRIYA CHOSE THESE PRODUCTS ACCORDING TO THE PLACE OF RESIDENCE OF THE DESIGNER EVEN IF THE PRODUCT MAY HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED BY AN INTERNATIONAL BRAND

The brand originated in the 1920s as part of Joe Kleiner & Sons. The enamelware has an instantly recognisable design, with its ice-white body and blue rim.

7

TRAUMA CHAIR SAMUEL ROSS

The Trauma Chair sits tall like an African tribal throne.

It’s lacquered with a mix containing molasses, and speaks in its design of torture and slavery.

9

KANGAN ARORA

A design for IKEA intended to bring Indian textiles into every home, the fabric was also inspired by the IKEA Museum in Sweden – drawing on a rich legacy of printed textiles across geography.

8

LOVE SEAT ERCOL

Creating an intimate and shared experience, the L.Ercolani Loveseat was designed in 1946 by Ercol founder, Lucian R Ercolani. This is a 1950 version of the design.

LOOP TABLE BARBER OSGERBY

The Loop Table was part of the first Barber Osgerby furniture collaboration, evolving from an initial handmade model made of cardboard. The Modernist design now sits in the permanent collections of the V&A and the MMA, New York.

10

E1027 TABLE EILEEN GRAY

Eileen Gray loved developing multifunctional furniture.

The E1027 table, designed in 1927, was designed to sit ‘over her knees’ while she was seated, and would moonlight as the occasional bedside table.

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GBB 2023 —— L

LOUISE BRADLEY Classic contemporary interiors with a detail-led approach

‘O

ne of the hardest challenges of the past year has been supply issues. Often, we call a supplier and they give us a price but two weeks later that could change. If we’re working on a project for a client, we can’t alter materials because they will have approved the scheme. Similarly, the retail price for our furniture is our retail price, and yet we can’t rely on what that item costs to produce. It’s the same situation for everybody. Luckily, we have good relationships with our suppliers which helps, but it has meant a lot of communication; there was a time when you would write a purchase order and that would be it but now it’s more complicated.

We’ve also set clear and honest expectations for our clients. Some things are taking longer or getting stuck in ports because of Brexit, so we’re focusing more on working with British artisans and craftspeople, which feeds into our sustainability drive.

We’re looking to be much more sustainable and achieve B Corp certification. I think the waste in interiors is immense. It’s difficult when we’re working with high-networth individuals who have a fixed idea of what they’d like so we need to see how we can help them be more environmentally friendly in their choices.

We’ve completed on several projects this year. One of our recent greatest achievements has been the installation of an amazing new build house in Surrey that we’ve been involved in for three years, right from the beginning.

Louise Bradley is known for her distinct luxurious contemporary aesthetic, which her studio brings to projects all over the world

TIMELINE

1991

Louise Bradley opens her first showroom on Walton Street in Chelsea, after starting her career in fashion

2005

The first ever Louise Bradley furniture collection is launched, with sofas, chairs and coffee tables

2009

The company expands into its current flagship Brompton Cross Design Studio and showroom

2014

The studio completes five of its largest global projects, inc. an English country estate and an opulent villa in Kuwait

2021

To celebrate the studio’s 30th anniversary, the book Interior: Louise Bradley is released, showcasing its best projects

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‘WE’RE FOCUSING MORE ON WORKING WITH BRITISH ARTISANS AND CRAFTSPEOPLE, WHICH FEEDS INTO OUR SUSTAINABILITY DRIVE’ It’s elegant, with wood-panelled walls in the main rooms and a kitchen that leads onto a garden room. It’s been lovely sourcing the antiques and using lots of texture.

We’ve worked with the clients before on a few projects so what’s nice is that they trust us completely.’

Louise Bradley, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The international nature of the Louise Bradley design studio – which has team members from Europe, Asia and South America – inspires a collaborative way of thinking and designing.

2

The office dog, Ellie B, a miniature wire-haired dachshund, is very choosy about whom she lets into the studio – from suppliers to the postman.

3 4

Over the past 30 years, the Louise Bradley studio has designed over six million sq/ft of interior spaces.

The Louise Bradley Collection, which features exquisite accessories, timeless furniture and luxurious fabrics, can be viewed at the Brompton Cross showroom.

5

A dream project for the Louise Bradley team would be designing a boutique hotel.

LOUISE BRADLEY Kimbolton Court 117b Fulham Road London SW3 6RL +44 (0)20 7589 1442 louisebradley.co.uk louisebradleyinteriors

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GBB 2023 —— M

MARIAN BOSWALL LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS

Working with the land’s healing energy to create beautiful, regenerative spaces

‘O

ur gardens, and being in touch with nature, are vital constants in a crazy world, whatever we as humans throw at each other! Alan Titchmarsh thanked the garden media recently for keeping people grounded to reality through nature.

As a studio, this need has kept us busier than ever.

We take on large-scale landscape projects for impactful and innovative nature restoration, often around historic buildings.

People are realising that, by looking after the land, we can tackle flooding, loss of biodiversity, climate change and chemical pollution in the air and water.

I often put labyrinths into projects to ground us to the earth and channel good energy. By having meditation spots, we bring ourselves into the land’s energy.

Walking a meditation spiral is good for mental and physical health, and biodiversity thrives at edges like mown lawn against longer grass. It’s so simple to create and has caught many people’s imagination.

Reclaimed materials, edible hedges, wildlife corridors of dead clippings and planting between paving to channel water into the land are all typical of our designs.

Using local reclaimed brick or stone is better for the planet, and also more karmically sustainable if you know the human conditions in the quarry. We only want to bring in good energy.

Three of us are horticulturalists as well as landscape architects – the roles go hand-in-hand. We always work with head gardeners, because when we leave is the real beginning. Current projects include a winery, a flood plain restoration, a regenerative estate masterplan and natural capital projects including habitats for important species like otters and turtle doves.

I think a big challenge is how to help in a new world order without becoming overwhelmed as a studio.

We’re lucky that we get chosen, and careful how we choose back, only taking on work where we can make a difference.’

Marian Boswall, founder

TIMELINE

2004

Previously a management consultant, Marian Boswall starts her studio after moving to the country and studying landscape architecture

2010-19

Multiple awards won including Homes & Gardens, Sussex Heritage Trust and the Society of Garden Designers Grand Award

2019

Named Garden Columnist of the Year for her series on land energy and design in Gardens Illustrated.

Co-founds the Sustainable Landscape Foundation

2020

Marian is elected a Fellow of the Landscape Institute, awarded to innovators, leaders and ambassadors for developing the landscape profession

2022

Marian Boswall’s book, Sustainable Garden, published by Frances Lincoln, is shortlisted for Garden Book of the Year

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‘I OFTEN PUT LABYRINTHS INTO GARDENS, TO GROUND US TO THE EARTH AND CHANNEL GOOD ENERGY’

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Marian’s mown meditation spiral is the most commentedon element from her own garden and has inspired many others around the country.

2

Marian is a land healer, trained in earth energy medicine. She gardens by the moon phases and says we are only guardians of the land. Clients enjoy her grounded approach.

3

The business headquarters is an old cowshed, although the team of eight meet often at client sites, usually outdoors – which Marian says is good for all of their mental health.

4

Marian believes that weeds come up for a reason in your garden, and could be beneficial to your health. Lemon balm is good for anxiety; mint for digestion.

5

Water has a memory and Marian is very interested in where water goes after the garden, always working to clean it and hold it in the land.

Marian and her team take a sustainable, holistic and naturefirst approach to garden design

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MARIAN BOSWALL LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS +44 (0)20 7305 7153 marianboswall.com marianboswall

21/12/2022 11:56

GBB 2023 —— M

MARTIN KEMP DESIGN

Providing a variety of evolving designs unfettered by a house style

‘I

’m not one to trumpet our triumphs as I think our work speaks for itself, but I can say that our studio has completed some very impressive projects recently.

One of these took over four years to complete and the finish is so incredible in its style and taste that the client is making a book about it.

On average the team usually works across 12 projects at any one time, which, given the highly detailed and considered nature of our work, feels like a good amount.

We were fortunate to be already

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halfway through several projects when Covid hit, so were able to continue with these, although we appreciate it was a difficult period for so many. We’re happy to be back in the studio now, collaborating in person again. There’s a real feeling of camaraderie which is integral to our creativity and way of thinking at Martin Kemp Design.

If I had to pinpoint a recent challenge, I would say it’s been recruitment. It is essential to us that members of the team are balanced all-rounders, capable of managing and creating their own work. We want to hire people who feel inspired by the extraordinarily special, hidden and enigmatic work we do, rather than those who might just be attracted to what can seem like a glamorous industry.

Looking ahead, our next step will be a studio in New York.

There’s so much wonderful American architecture and we’re excited to bring the level of detail and fine craftsmanship that we’re known for to an ever-demanding market. My team is involved with projects globally from Hong Kong, to the Bahamas and St Tropez.

America is a relatively uncharted territory for us so I’m looking forward to us bringing a new British/ European style and approach to American residential interior design.’

Martin Kemp, founder and Managing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Martin Kemp worked for luxury property developers Candy London for seven years before founding his studio.

Clients often compliment Martin on the studio’s friendly ambience and the commitment and passion shown to every element of design.

3

The studio’s variety of projects is reflected in the team’s eclectic music tastes – in the office it plays FIP radio, the only station broad enough to cater for everyone.

4

The studio’s relationship with its clients is based on trust, and confidentiality is taken so seriously that finished projects are rarely published or spoken about.

5 From jets to yachts to townhouses, Martin Kemp Design’s portfolio is wideranging yet always known for its attention to detail

The studio is in the process of developing an exclusive range of furniture and homeware.

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GBB 2023 —— M

MOLTON BROWN British makers of fragrance, created with care

‘N

ow that shopping online is the norm, the role of the physical store has changed so much. However, Molton Brown operates in a category that is harder to discover if not in-person. Therefore, while we have constantly been progressing the online offering so that it remains inspiring, we have also been evolving the bricks-andmortar side, engineering it towards meaningful brand immersion so that it brings to life all the incredible products we offer.

We were proud to open to our newly refurbished flagship store on Regent Street. It provides customers with a physical environment to discover all the detail that makes the pinnacle Molton Brown experience and it’s where we can bring our products to life in a multi-sensory way that goes beyond scent. We have really noticed an appetite from customers wanting a more person-to-person interaction with our team of passionate in-store experts, so we are thrilled to be able to welcome them into the new, innovative space, which will be used as a blueprint to be rolled out to stores around the country.

Sustainability is at the forefront of our thinking, as it has been for the past 50 years. We have always been proudly “Made in England” and cruelty-free and this is something we will never move away from.

Eaux de Parfum collection

ABOVE: Re-charge Black Pepper Bath & Shower Gel RIGHT: Orange & Bergamot Fine Liquid Hand Wash Refill

Molton Brown founders, Michael Collis and Caroline Burstein pictured outside the original salon on South Molton Street

Molton Brown Regent Street Flagship Store

TIMELINE

1971

Molton Brown is founded as a hair salon

by Michael Collis and Caroline Burstein on South Molton Street in London’s Mayfair

2002

The company launches its beloved Re-charge Black Pepper collection. Created by master perfumer Jacques Chabert, it has been a bestseller since

2012

Molton Brown is awarded a Royal Warrant from Her Late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for its commitment to the highest quality

2019

The company completely reimagines its distinctive collection of eau de parfum and toilette in 2019 – its biggest relaunch yet

2022

The London flagship store on Regent Street is transformed. Now more sustainable, it offers exclusive services and an immersive experience

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‘WHILE PROGRESSING THE ONLINE OFFERING SO THAT IT REMAINS INSPIRING, WE HAVE SIMULTANEOUSLY BEEN EVOLVING THE BRICKS-AND-MORTAR SIDE’ Today, our manufacturing facility in Elsenham is carbon neutral, we use 50 percent recycled PET in our core bottles and we have an ever-expanding range of sustainable product solutions including Fine Liquid Hand Wash Refillable Glass Bottles, Refill Pouches and a launch in 2023 of a sustainable Bath & Body bottle. We sincerely believe that sustainability and luxury can live together in harmony – and it’s our mission to give our community the best of both worlds.’

Beatrice Descorps, Vice-President of Marketing

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Molton Brown was one of the first British beauty brands never to test products on animals – pioneering in the 1970s. It has been Leaping Bunny-approved since 2012.

2 3

Its signature Orange & Bergamot Fine Liquid Hand Wash is widely considered to be the first luxury hand wash in Britain.

Products have always been ‘Made in England’. The carbon neutral manufacturing facility in Hertfordshire is right by the founders’ former country home and factory, Motts Hall.

4

The company has nurtured a close friendship with its eclectic perfumers over the years, especially the Chabert family of Jacques and his daughters, Carla and Elsa.

5

One full-size Re-charge Black Pepper Bath & Shower Gel is sold every minute, and it’s also a threetimes award-winning fragrance with 297 five-star reviews.

Fine Liquid Hand Wash Refillable Glass Bottles

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MOLTON BROWN 227 Regent Street London W1B 2EF +44 (0)20 7493 7319 moltonbrown.co.uk moltonbrown

21/12/2022 11:58

GBB 2023 —— M

MR & MRS SMITH

Boutique-hotel booking service specialising in romantic getaways

‘I

t’s been a really tough few years for the travel industry, but we’ve come out of it as a much stronger, more focused business, with a better understanding of what’s most important to us: our customers.

The biggest challenge was building confidence in travel again. The interest was definitely there – the lockdowns were over and people couldn’t wait to get away – but the prospect of all that airport chaos made travellers nervous. In most cases, we were able to manage any disruption, but we felt that saddling our customers with the worry of a cancelled flight was unfair, so we introduced a flight guarantee on every booking.

Another challenge was getting our B Corp certification. Certification is not just a tick box exercise – it’s a genuine look at what you do, identifying where you can do better – and we had a whole team of people within Smith working on it.

The result was a genuine transformation of our business and I really believe we can be a force for good within the industry.

Looking ahead, it’s clear holidays are going to get more expensive, so the next challenge will be making sure that travel is still the best value it can be.

We will also have to make sure we can meet the needs of customers who have adjusted their finances, perhaps taking two or three really special weekends away rather than one lavish long-haul trip. We’ve always seen ourselves as a matchmaker between our members and their perfect holiday: that won’t change.

This year is going to be a really exciting time for travel, with an explosion of incredible new hotels around the world that will transform the industry.

It might sound like a cliché, but hotels and developers really are building back better post-pandemic.’

The Bowery Hotel, New York

‘WE HAVE ALWAYS SEEN OURSELVES AS MATCHMAKERS

THEIR PERFECT HOLIDAY’

Six Senses Ibiza

Tamara Lohan, CEO and founder

TIMELINE

2003

James and Tamara Lohan publish their first guide to the UK’s romantic hotels

2005

The brand becomes an online hotelbooking business

2018

The World’s Sexiest Bedrooms coffee table book is published

2020

Works with The Future Laboratory to explore the future of romantic travel

2022

Mr & Mrs Smith becomes proudly B Corp-certified

PHOTOS: HANNAH DACE; LOUISA A. W. SHERIDAN

BETWEEN OUR MEMBERS AND

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As a newly certified B Corp business, Mr & Mrs Smith know they can be a positive force for good in the travel industry

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The brand’s name is a nod to the nom de plume traditionally used by couples for illicit stays.

Mr & Mrs Smith has over 1,700 hotels in its collection, ranging from quaint pubs with rooms in the Cotswolds to otherworldly overwater villas in Vietnam.

3

Entry to the Mr & Mrs Smith collection is by invitation only and every hotel is anonymously reviewed by a trusted tastemaker.

4 5

Current brand ambassadors include Sophie Ashby, Jackson Boxer and Pandora Sykes.

The brand is committed to creating the best possible future for its customers, its community of hotels, its employees and the environment.

PHOTOS: HANNAH DACE; LOUISA A. W. SHERIDAN

MR & MRS SMITH +44 (0)330 100 3180 mrandmrssmith.com mrandmrssmith

Passalacqua, Lake Como

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GBB 2023 —— M

MULBERRY

Leather goods made to last a lifetime and do good for the planet

‘O

ur answer to this “Brave New World” is simply to reinforce the brand’s DNA of 52 years, based on providing beautiful, quality bags that are made to last. Our mission for the next 50 years will continue to be sustainability. We aimed to source 100 percent of our leather from environmentally accredited tanneries by the start of 2023, but achieved this in October 2022.

All leather in our collections is also now carbon neutral, achieved through offsetting with the World Land Trust, a step on our journey while implementing a radical reduction strategy.

We’re also continuing our commitment to circularity, which was announced in 2021 with our “Made to Last” manifesto, setting out our plan to transform the business to a regenerative, circular model.

We were proud to be recognised as Sustainable Luxury Brand of the Year at the 2022 Walpole British Luxury Awards for the progress we’ve made towards that goal.

The Mulberry Exchange, matching authentic pre-loved and restored vintage bags with new owners, is proving extremely popular. In fact, our biggest challenge is that people feel such affection for our bags that they’d rather restore and keep even the oldest bag than exchange it. So sometimes it’s not easy to meet demand for pre-loved bags but this is, after all, very positive and proves our journey to circularity is a success.

In 2023 we’re continuing to take a progressive leadership approach within our industry, forging direct

Mulberry’s pre-loved Roxanne bag being expertly restored at the brand’s Lifetime Service Centre

TIMELINE

1971

Mulberry is founded

by Roger Saul at his kitchen table in Somerset, England. His sister designs the iconic mulberry tree logo

2003

The Bayswater bag is introduced and immediately becomes a favourite of a generation.

Kate Moss is one of the bag’s earliest fans

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2010

The Alexa bag is introduced, inspired

by British style icon Alexa Chung. The bag is instantly popular and sells out around the world

2013

Mulberry opens its second Somerset factory, reinforcing its commitment to UK manufacturing

2021

On its 50th anniversary, Mulberry commits to transforming the business to a regenerative, circular model by 2030 and become net zero by 2035

‘THE TIME HAS COME FOR TRANSFORMATION, LOOKING BEYOND IMPACT REDUCTION, TO SOLUTIONS THAT HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO CREATE POSITIVE CHANGE’ links with people, who are more concerned than ever about brands’ commitment to doing better for the planet. To ensure complete traceability and transparency, we’re working to install every product with a Digital ID so customers can see their bag’s entire history – from field to wardrobe. We believe the time has come for transformation, looking beyond impact reduction, to solutions that have the potential to create positive change, from the ground up.’

Thierry Andretta, CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Mulberry’s founder started the company from his kitchen table, crafting leather offcuts into chokers and belts to sell at London’s Portobello Market.

2

The Mulberry Exchange allows you to take your pre-loved bag into Mulberry, to be repaired, restored or authenticated and bought back for credit towards another pre-loved or new style.

3 4

Mulberry is the largest leather goods manufacturer in the UK, making over half of its bags at its two carbon neutral Somerset factories.

Mulberry has a long history of collaborations with individuals and brands, including Alexa Chung, Acne Studios, Miffy and Priya Ahluwalia.

5

As well as focusing on sourcing leather responsibly, Mulberry continues to introduce new, innovative materials into collections, such as Eco-Scotchgrain, Econyl and Bio-Acetate.

MULBERRY 100 Regent Street London W1B 5SR +44 (0)1761 234230 mulberry.com mulberryengland

GBB 2023 —— M

MUSTO

Innovative technical clothing with 50 years of sailing heritage

‘M

usto has always been really strong in the sailing and country markets, and we have been looking at our heritage to influence where we go next. Our founder, Keith Musto, created the country collection after watching his daughter ride in the rain. He was warm and dry in his technical sailing gear and thought, “Why not keep everyone else dry too?”. We want to be front of mind not just for those engaged in sports and country pursuits, but anyone who is outside and wants to wear decent gear to ensure they stay dry.

The challenge for us last year was not just keeping up with the constant global challenges, but also knowing what was around the corner because it all affects people’s behaviour. We surveyed our customers and gained interesting insights into why they buy from us; what they’re looking for in a product and in the brand. Predominantly, it comes down to quality and trust, and it’s reassuring that we produce pieces that inspire such loyalty.

We recently relaunched some of our core “Offshore Sailing” collections. Being able to reinvent something that’s already one of the best products on the market is some achievement and great kudos goes to Musto’s incredible product team, the designers and the developers, all of whom have years of experience.

We love our products and care about our customers so another target is ensuring product longevity, for our customers and the environment.

From professional sailors to nature lovers, Musto designs its products for anyone who enjoys the great outdoors

1964

Keith Musto wins Flying Dutchman Nationals, Europeans and an Olympic silver medal in Tokyo

1983

After much technical experimentation, Keith designs the first viable twopiece drysuit

1987

Musto’s equestrian and shooting ranges launch, inspired by its technical sailing wear

1994

Musto teams up with W.L. Gore to create an extra tough Gore-Tex Pro membrane

2010

The brand is granted Royal Warrants by Her Majesty the Queen and HRH the Duke of Edinburgh

PHOTOS: © YANN RIOU; © AMORY ROSS/ 11TH HOUR RACING; © MUSTO

TIMELINE

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‘IT COMES DOWN TO QUALITY AND TRUST, AND IT’S REASSURING THAT WE PRODUCE PIECES THAT INSPIRE SUCH LOYALTY’ We are focused on concentrating on what we do really well and staying true to who we are as a brand. That said, we are increasing awareness outside our core audiences too: we have grown our lifestyle business and are now sold by Marks & Spencer, John Lewis and Harrods, so the future looks bright.’

Nick Houchin, Head of Marketing

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

In 1992, the famous sailor, Skip Novak, tested a Musto HPX offshore drysuit in Arctic water for three hours (he survived!).

All Musto products are British designed, using hours of research and feedback from Musto sailors.

Musto’s very first country jacket was a green version of the HPX, later developed into the Highland jacket.

Musto’s ‘HPX’ collection is worn by some of the world’s best sailors – those racing in The Ocean Race pass through Point Nemo in the South Pacific Ocean – the farthest point from land on earth.

5 PHOTOS: © YANN RIOU; © AMORY ROSS/ 11TH HOUR RACING; © MUSTO

Musto’s longest serving ambassador is the former world champion equestrian, Zara Tindall, who has been involved with the brand for 15 years and fronted its successful 2022 autumn/winter campaign.

Team GB equestrian Zara Tindall has been a Musto brand ambassador for 15 years

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MUSTO International House 1 St Katharine Docks London E1W 1UN +44 (0)115 896 2387 musto.com mustoclothing

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GBB 2023 —— JUSTICE, DIVERSITY, EQUALITY & INCLUSION

TURNING THE PAGE ON...

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DIVERSITY

Brand equity is critical for success but companies who don’t adapt to the times are in danger of losing the value which they hold so dear, says Trevor Phillips ILLUSTRATION BY KAMO FRANKS

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GBB 2023 —— JUSTICE, DIVERSITY, EQUALITY & INCLUSION

obody really agrees on what brand equity means – but we know it when we see it. The late Queen had bucketloads, with virtually unparalleled global levels of recognition, combined in her final years with stellar approval ratings for the way she did her job.

In defining what it looks like to be British, Sir David Attenborough, the BBC, and latterly English football’s Premier League may not quite fill the gap left by the loss of a beloved monarch, but they count.

Brand equity is vital in telling us who we are. Our iconic British brands are part of a story defining who we’d like to be as a nation.

They also carry commercial value because the individual human story is often told through the brand choices we make. For decades I remained loyal to a woefully unreliable British auto marque, spending money I didn’t really have to keep it on the road. I convinced myself that it was a good investment as my friends, family and professional peers would see me as someone from a modest background with aspirations to be a person of refined taste. It’s a matter of identity.

But the world moves on, and the character assets that may have lifted a brand in the past can quickly turn into liabilities. Sometimes they no longer resonate with the prevailing national story; the classic British icons that convey stability, elegance and a hint of exceptionalism – Rolls-Royce perhaps – are no less superb this year than they were 12 months ago, but they jangle discordantly with our current chaotic political reality.

More frequently though, the ebbing of a brand’s value lies in its failure to move with a new social reality; and in the 21st century world, no transformation is taking place with greater rapidity and impact than the growth of diversity – both objective and subjective.

The 1980s saw huge changes in the way that money and information moved around the world, and right behind this revolution came a human story. People are on the move. It is thought that today some 400 million people live and work outside the country of their birth.

To put it another way, there are probably more people studying, working and doing business with folks who are not like themselves than at any time in human history. Friction abounds, sometimes rising above the level of workplace grumbling to open conflict.

At the same time, the 20th century let the genie of customer choice out of the bottle, turbocharged in the past two decades by the astonishing growth of digital commerce. We can source the garment or gadget that we want in exactly the configuration and colour that pleases us; we can even, at the swipe of a screen, find the life partner with whom we will share our dreams, as well as the mundane reality of hanging out the laundry. Internet dating no longer carries the whiff of desperation for a generation seeking perfection.

It follows that brands need to make ever greater efforts to appeal to a world that is not only more diverse in culture, ethnicity and outlook,

but also one in which women, minorities and disabled people no longer expect to have the fact of their difference treated as a flaw to be disguised or ignored. We are less tolerant of brands that don’t ‘get it’. Parents shy away from stereotypical pink and blue toys and clothing. And I doubt very much that cosmetics with names like ‘Black-Up’ (it does exist) are likely to catch on in the English-speaking world.

Then there are demographics. Between now and mid-century anyone trying to sell anything to the USA will have to contend with the fact that a minority of adults there will be white; despite their higher average wealth and buying power, you can’t sustain sales on half the market.

Here in the UK, Indian-heritage households – the largest minority – already out-earn the average by some 20 percent; they have disposable income and they want choice. By mid-century up to a third of Britons will be people of colour. As one corporate leader told us, ‘If we don’t have a multicultural strategy we don’t have a growth strategy.’

Work we conducted on the UK’s free-to-air broadcasters in 2016 showed that even the best – the BBC – could no longer count on the loyalty (or inertia) of much of its audience. In a choice environment impervious to price, minorities were almost half as likely to tune into its most popular news bulletins; they preferred a view of the world from a different perspective offered to smaller, targeted audiences.

Some of our more successful brands tend to assume that they can leave responding to these trends towards fragmentation until later, believing that the power of their presence in the market will, for the time being, transcend the plethora of options. They would be wrong.

In many of the businesses that my teams work with, the modern problem is not that customers are wearied by choice; it is that they can usually find a brand they think is consistent with their own chosen identity far more easily than before – and factors other than price and value figure highly in their decision-making. That is why our data analytics arm provides detailed data to major fast-moving consumer goods brands on matters like, for example – and I am not making this up – which specific skin foundation women from Gulf states prefer. Having this data makes an appreciable impact on revenues.

There is a further issue that brands will need to confront: the growing significance of intermediaries. I have a niece who, as far as I can see, makes a rather better living than I do recommending athleisure to her million or so Instagram followers. Issues such as corporate performance on climate change or sexual violence clearly matter commercially; nobody wants to be associated with brands whose stars beat their wives. Influencers won’t advocate for brands that don’t recognise diversity and customers don’t just buy what they see in real or virtual shop windows; they worry about what’s behind the door marked ‘staff only’ .

The risks of not addressing diverse markets are manifold and manifest.

But so are the advantages of getting it right. I spend much of my life as chairman of a firm that puts talented people into executive and board roles in big companies. In the war for talent, a brand’s good reputation can be worth almost as much as an extra ten percent in the pay packet.

BY MID-CENTURY UP TO A THIRD OF BRITONS WILL BE PEOPLE OF COLOUR. AS ONE CORPORATE LEADER TOLD US, ‘IF WE DON’T HAVE A MULTICULTURAL STRATEGY WE DON’T HAVE A GROWTH STRATEGY’

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The days of demanding that everyone fits into the company straitjacket are probably over for good

This isn’t just an issue for women and minorities. Today, not even the most hard-bitten white, male, middle-aged corporate leader wants to tell his family that he works for a firm with a reputation for achieving success by ignoring the harassment of female employees or failing to promote capable minority executives.

These stories get around; there’s a reason why internet employment sites like Glassdoor are successful. Few narratives sully a brand faster today than the sense that it has failed to pay due regard to diversity and inclusion. And in case you want to know why people put the ‘D’ and the ‘I’ together, think about it like this. Companies have to make sure that their culture is ready to accept people as they are; or else top performers will go somewhere else. The days of demanding that everyone fit into the company strait jacket are probably over for good.

All this means that brands need to adapt to what ‘good’ looks like for employees. Boards and CEOs will need to get used to colleagues

who don’t share their ideas about raising families, or about the balance between money-making and brand-building, for example. It will be hard but necessary for everyone to think differently. We don’t just need to tinker with the colour of faces around the table, or raise the number of those who wear skirts. We need to provide a space for everyone to bring their whole personality to work.

Most of all, while Black Lives Matter woke many brands up to diversity in 2020, some are now paying the price of having talked the talk, but two years on, not having walked the walk. Firms already have to report the pay gap between men and women; soon that requirement will be extended to ethnicity.

It’s hard to imagine a firm that doesn’t treat all its own people equally is being truly fair to its suppliers, its clients and customers. Nothing destroys brand equity faster and more completely than a yawning gap between promise and the reality. In these difficult times, what you say must turn out to be what you do. n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 215

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GBB 2023 —— ACCESSIBLE CULTURE

theLIST

Six of the Most Accessible UK Cultural Institutions From sign language to accessible performances, CHARLOTTE RICKARDS celebrates the places making everyone welcome

Access to nature is a necessity for everyone. British Sign Language (BSL) seasonal garden tours with wheelchair and mobility scooters are available at The Royal Botanical Gardens in Edinburgh. Hearing loops are also located across the welcome points. The botanical gardens, originally founded in 1670 as a physic garden to grow medicinal plants, now consists of more than 13,302 species sprawling over 70 acres, just waiting to be explored. rbge.org.uk

4

THE EDEN PROJECT

Distinctive for its three domes, the Eden Project is Cornwall's world-renowned eco attraction, and the planet's largest experimental greenhouse garden.

Personal assistants have free entry, and you can explore the biomes on any mobility vehicle. Plus, you can borrow one of its own wheelchairs or hire an all-terrain mobility scooter to discover the Eden Project's extensive outdoor gardens and estate.

You'll just need to book the wheelchairs in advance at no extra charge. edenproject.com

2

BRIGHTON DOME

Hosting comedy, spoken word, dance and theatre, The Brighton Dome is all about platforming emerging and established artists for everyone. There's a range of performances to check out, including BSL interpretation, relaxed performances, touch tours, and productions by disabled artists. There are also highly visual performances for deaf or partially hearing visitors. The venue recognises not all disabilities are visible, so has a programme in place to help visitors. brightondome.org

5

WAKE THE TIGER, BRISTOL

The world's first 'amazement park', Wake The Tiger has been tipped as ideal for those with ADHD, since it's a visual sensory overload. Consider it a fantastical maze that blurs the lines between a surrealist film set and a mesmerising art piece. It also offers tickets specifically for individuals and families who are unemployed, on low income or anyone for whom it is not possible to visit due to financial means. wakethetiger.com

3

THE BARBICAN CENTRE

Known as London's best example of Brutalist architecture, the Barbican is a venue dedicated to the arts, with exhibitions, dance, film, music, and the like.

It's also teaming with options for all visitors, putting on relaxed cinema screenings and theatre performances, with captioning, audio description and BSL options, and accessibility for wheelchair users. There's a packed cultural calendar to look at on its website. barbican.org.uk

6

THE HEPWORTH WAKEFIELD, YORKSHIRE

The Hepworth Wakefield is the largest purpose-built exhibition space outside London. Its staff are trained in all aspects of visitor care, from artworks to the facilities.

It's fully accessible for wheelchair and scooter users, and there are accessible parking bays for Blue Badge holders.

Guide and assistance dogs are welcome in the gallery, plus there are induction loops available in the gallery if needed. hepworthwakefield.org

PHOTOS: © HUFTON + CROW; © HUGH FOX; © RBGE; © MAX COLSON

1

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN, EDINBURGH

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N O

GBB 2023

NAIM AUDIO 218

NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES 220

NEW & LINGWOOD 224 NICHOLSON GIN 226

NINA CAMPBELL 228

NO.3 GIN 230

OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS 232 ONEFINESTAY 234

OSKIA 238

THE OWO 240

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GBB 2023 —— N

NAIM AUDIO The audio powerhouse broadening its appeal to engage with new markets

‘W

e’ve been designing a new range of music systems and audio technologies which represents our biggest change and challenge in the brand’s history. It’s crucial to address a global marketplace where hi-fi is for every music lover, rather than a somewhat “specialist club” for audiophiles only. Customers may not have considered Naim before because it may have seemed too complex.

Now we’re streamlining and simplifying our ranges to make it easier for everyone to start a journey into better sound. It’s the time to engage with a new raft of customers who want great sound quality in their lives and are increasingly looking to improve their home entertainment systems.

Whether you want to stream your music, listen to vinyl or enjoy an exceptional solo listening experience through headphones, Naim has the handcrafted solution for you. A host of patents mean you’ll be benefiting from the latest innovations, too. But it’s not all about technology: we have never lost sight of our founding aim to experience music replayed in its truest and purest possible form.

We’re also mindful of larger concerns. All our recent designs are engineered to use less than 0.5 watt in standby, to reduce power consumption, and we’re thinking seriously about all aspects of sustainability and sourcing suppliers that are closer to home. Our longheld “built to last” ethos also means Naim products are typically handed

Naim’s high-tech sound systems are reaching a new generation of music lovers

TIMELINE

1985

Naim wins the first of three prestigious Queen’s Awards: it won again in 2010 and 2014, recognised for its export and innovation achievements

2011

Naim joins forces with acoustic specialist, Focal: the two are now an Anglo-French powerhouse in the audio world

2014

Naim launches Statement, the brand’s flagship amplifier, which continues to offer class-leading performance for audiophiles

2023

Naim celebrates its 50th anniversary with a host of new products and technologies and an order book from thousands of global retailers

PHOTOS: NAIM AUDIO

1973

Founded in Salisbury

by Julian Vereker MBE (1945- 2000), a racing car driver, entrepreneur and self-taught engineer with a deep passion for music

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‘WE’RE STREAMLINING AND SIMPLIFYING OUR RANGES TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR EVERYONE TO START A JOURNEY INTO BETTER SOUND’ down through generations rather than discarded after a few years.

The aim of all these endeavours is to continue to build world-class hi-fi systems that are attuned to contemporary challenges and demands.

This year heralds Naim’s 50th anniversary and we will celebrate with exciting launches to mark this key milestone. These new products will represent the best that 21st century British engineering has to offer as we look forward to a strong and prosperous future.’

Jason Gould, Brand Ambassador

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The company is called Naim as a pun on the word ‘name’ when founder Julian Vereker couldn’t think of anything else to call his new business.

2

The pun continued within classic brand advertising from the 1980s, including the taglines ‘You’re a nobody without a Naim’ and ‘I’m sorry I didn’t catch your Naim’.

3

Naim for Bentley has been the premium in-car sound system since 2008. The Flying Spur features a 2,200 watt amplifier driving 19 speakers plus two kinaesthetic shakers in the front seats.

4

The flagship Naim Statement amplifier produces the equivalent of a full horsepower – 746 watts – which means it can drive loudspeakers with ease.

5

One of the design inspirations for the Statement’s multi-part design were the famous neolithic standing stones at Stonehenge – just a short distance from Naim’s HQ in Salisbury.

PHOTOS: NAIM AUDIO

NAIM AUDIO Southampton Road Salisbury Wiltshire SP1 2LN +44 (0)1722 426600 naimaudio.com naimaudio

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GBB 2023 —— N

NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES Luxurious, organic skincare that doesn’t cost the earth

‘O

ur customers trust us to grow our ingredients ethically and organically (92 percent of our ingredients are organic), meaning lower carbon emissions and less damage to biodiversity. Our mission is to prove skincare can be made using natural ingredients and still be highly effective.

In 2022, we launched our award-winning, certified organic Frankincense Intense Age-Defying Overnight Mask, a luxurious blend containing bacillus ferment.

The mask is proven to reduce the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles and it firms, lifts and recontours skin. Based on consumer trials, 86 percent agree that their skin is visibly smoother when used as a 30-minute treatment. This isn’t just a dreamy, luxurious product, but proof that organic works. We use only organically certified and sustainably sourced frankincense, proving that luxury can be both sustainable and ethical.

Our “Bee Lovely” collection remains extremely popular and so I’m proud to be protecting our pollinators, given that one in three mouthfuls of our food depend on them. Last year, I launched a parliamentary petition calling on the government to cut hazardous pesticide use, backed by a coalition of over 80 like-minded brands and organisations, including Bella Freud, Alice Temperley, Fortnum & Mason, Solange Azagury-Partridge, Bamford, Friends of the Earth, Lush, Body Shop, British Beauty Council, Yeo Valley and Wildfarmed. In June 2022, our Bee Symposium brought environmentalists, farmers and the beauty industry together to discuss how to work together to support biodiversity.

This year, we will be making tangible steps to reduce packaging waste in our industry, and hope to influence others to follow suit. For example, we’ll be further expanding our refill range and removing the outer boxes from a selection of our products. We’ve got some really exciting, high-performance skincare products launching in spring – with natural, organic ingredients that do not cost the earth – in both senses of the phrase. I’ll never stop fighting to preserve our beautiful eco-system – after all, who wants a world without bees or butterflies?’

Neal’s Yard Remedies, co-founded by Anabel Kindersley (below) has spearheaded organic beauty in the UK

Three percent from every sale of Neal’s Yard Remedies ‘Bee Lovely’ collection goes to bee-friendly charities

Anabel Kindersley, co-owner

TIMELINE

1981

Neal’s Yard Remedies begins life in Covent Garden as Neal’s Yard Apothecary, selling natural remedies

1991

Neal’s Yard Remedies was the first beauty brand in the country to be certified by the prestigious Soil Association

2006

Anabel and Barnabas Kindersley, organic advocates, take over Neal’s Yard Remedies, reinforcing its nature-first approach to wellbeing

2008

Neal’s Yard Remedies is the first UK high street retailer to be certified Carbon Neutral, and has offset its greenhouse gas emissions every year since

2022

Anabel Kindersley spearheads the Stand by Bees campaign to cut the use of deadly pesticides in the UK

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‘THIS ISN’T JUST A DREAMY, LUXURIOUS PRODUCT BUT PROOF THAT ORGANIC WORKS’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

The brand’s logo symbolises its philosophy that outer beauty and inner health should be in perfect balance.

Over 90 percent of products are made in small batches at its sustainably designed eco-factory in Dorset.

The blue pigment in the bottles protects against sunlight, helping preserve the natural ingredients and minimise the need for preservatives.

4

Many of the brand’s organic ingredients are grown in the gardens at its ecofactory. Tinctures and infusions of these form the basis of most of its products.

5

From helping young farmers set up a distillery in Uganda, funding a well in Kenya and co-funding a rosehip seed crusher in Serbia, the brand has built lasting ethical relationships with its growers locally and globally.

NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES 15 Neal’s Yard, London WC2H 9DP +44 (0)1747 834634 nealsyardremedies.com nealsyardremedies

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GBB 2023 —— BEAUTY

theLIST

Ten British B Corp Beauty Brands to Discover Now These are the home-grown sustainable pioneers to squeeze into your wash bag, says CHARLIE COLVILLE

3

KRĪ SKINCARE

With the ethos of ‘make more with less’, genderneutral beauty brand Krī Skincare works with simple formulas created using ingredients that are certified by Leaping Bunny, Ecocert and COSMOS. Krī also donates a portion of its annual revenue to the World Land Trust to help fund the restoration of tropical forest habitats. kriskincare.com

1

BY SARAH LONDON

Launched by sisters Sarah and Lauren in 2017, By Sarah London is an organic, plant-based skincare range that makes its products by hand in the UK. Transparency matters, and each product comes with a label detailing every ingredient. bysarahlondon.com

2

BATHING BEAUTY

Bathing Beauty tackles skin issues with natural products made in the foothills of The Clwydian Range in Wales with ingredients from ethical suppliers.

Packaging is reusable or recyclable, and it donates one percent of its online sales to Stripe Climate programmes. bathing-beauty.co.uk

4

BEAUTY KITCHEN

With an impact score of 139.8, Beauty Kitchen quite rightly holds the title of ‘Best for the World’ B Corps. When creating products, the brand avoids using synthetic ingredients, microplastics and animal testing, and donates two percent of its sales revenue to charity partners like The Seahorse Trust and the Plastic Soup Foundation. beautykitchen.co.uk

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5

THE BODY SHOP

High street favourite The Body Shop has been B Corp certified since 2019. The global beauty giant launched in the 1970s with the goal to create ethically sourced wellness products. These days, you can find The Body Shop advocating against climate change and for refilling your shampoo bottles. thebodyshop.com

6

AURELIA LONDON

7

AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES

Aromatherapy Associates is a leader in luxury wellbeing, with a focus on rich blends of essential oils. Since achieving B Corp status in 2020, the brand has removed over 1.5 tonnes of virgin plastic from its product lines – and by 2023 it hopes to be completely carbon neutral. aromatherapyassociates.com

Another brand awaiting B Corp status is Aurelia, which specialises in probiotic skincare made in Britain. Partnering with NGOs like PhytoTrade Africa to source its coveted botanicals, Aurelia makes sure that all its ingredients are sourced fairly and benefit the local communities that harvest them. aurelialondon.com

8

MONPURE

Animal-derived ingredients are the norm when it comes to haircare. But B Corp pending Monpure, the world’s first scalp and hair health brand, stands out from the crowd.

Committed to slow beauty, the brand works with handpicked ethical suppliers, uses vegan and crueltyfree ingredients like Silkgel and packs its products in 100 percent recyclable packaging. monpure.com

10

DAME

Starting a new chapter in women’s healthcare is DAME, which creates reusable period products (including the world’s first reusable tampon applicator) that are free from both toxins and single-use plastic.

The first British period brand to become Carbon Neutral Plus accredited, DAME aims to make period products sustainable and accessible to all. wearedame.co

9

SEEDS OF COLOUR

Certified vegan and cruelty-free, makeup brand Seeds of Colour added another string to its bow this year when it achieved B Corp status. It is best known for its richly pigmented colour balms – which can be used on the lips, cheeks and eyelids – made from fruits and vegetables. seedsofcolour.com

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GBB 2023 —— N

NEW & LINGWOOD

Luxury British menswear that makes you feel ‘at home, anywhere’

‘W

e had spent much of 2021 working behind the scenes to make our heritage brand future-proof, agile and ready for a brave new world.

Our online business had doubled, we had brought in new customers, but the question remained: what happens when our stores reopen?

Last year began with our first new London store for 100 years on Chiltern Street, designed as a concept shop: it’s a place to experiment, to introduce new styles in keeping with our brand but engaging with a broader customer group who might not come to our Jermyn Street flagship. We held community-based store events with a Frieze evening and street parties for collection launches, integrating the neighbourhood when possible. It was risky, but has paid huge dividends, challenging us to evolve our product to fit that space. Chiltern Street highlighted our elevated loungewear concept: people want to be more comfortable. We want our clothes to make you feel “at home, anywhere” but also maintain the refinement of our tailoring heritage.

Physical presence is hugely important to us: while our online business still expands, our stores are now exceeding pre-pandemic levels. Big news this year will be our new store on Savile Row, home of our bespoke tailoring – the best innovation happens when it has its own space to grow. Circular fashion and sustainability will be

New & Lingwood offers menswear that is built to last, made with materials produced by craftspeople in small batches

TIMELINE

1865

Miss Elisabeth New and Mr Samuel Lingwood found the business in Eton, to serve college scholars

1922

New & Lingwood opens a store on Jermyn Street, one of London’s premier menswear destinations

1972

Poulsen Skone, famous shoe and bootmaking firm, joins the company, extending its range of classic footwear

2018

New & Lingwood opens its first US outpost on New York’s prestigious Lexington Avenue

2022

The company opens its elevated loungewear concept store on London’s Chiltern Street, reaching a new audience

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‘WE ARE DEVOTING OUR ATTENTION TO THE IDEA OF SUSTAINABILITY AND CIRCULARITY, EMBEDDING IT IN OUR BUSINESS VISION’ our focus here, in an innovative, individual space, highlighting craft quality for customers who ask “how can I shop my values?”

Fashion contributes to some of the climate challenges we face.

So we are devoting our attention to the idea of sustainability and circularity, embedding it in our business vision: menswear built to last; materials produced by artisanal craftspeople in small batches; innovating around the concept of resale, refurbishing and recycling. Suppliers, customers and the industry are all better off.’

Freddie Briance, Chief Executive

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

The New & Lingwood store on Jermyn Street was destroyed by bombs during the Blitz, but was rebuilt and expanded.

The frontage of the Jermyn Street store featured in the film A Hundred and One Dalmatians.

To mark Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887, founder Elisabeth New had the Eton store’s exterior painted white.

In 1915, the upper floors of Jermyn Street were transformed into a hotel called The Felix.

Actor Hugh Laurie wore New & Lingwood’s Peacock silk dressing gown for the TV drama series The Night Manager.

NEW & LINGWOOD 53 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6LX +44 (0)800 083 5102 newandlingwood.com newandlingwood

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GBB 2023 —— N

NICHOLSON GIN

The authentic original 1736 London dry gin, rediscovered for today

‘A

s an entrepreneur, I had been searching for a business with “uninvented authenticity”. Nicholson was just that.

On completing the acquisition in August 2021, we spent seven months completely redesigning this great British brand to make it current for today, appealing to a wider audience.

We made big strategic decisions, one being a move away from the “bacon and egg colours” of the Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC), which founder William Nicholson had given them, to a more modern look and feel, but still very much linked to our heritage by using the 1736 map of London on the label.

The pandemic had damaged Nicholson: the previous owners had built UK on-trade distribution to 350 outlets; when they were closed, Nicholson had no e-commerce as fall-back. Our learning: we don’t rely on the on-and-off-trade, but control our own destiny by being a more digitally managed business.

When we relaunched in March 2022 at the Mandarin Oriental, our strategy was very different: avoid big retail supermarkets, where our competitors flock; grow pubs, hotels and cocktail bars (up by 300 to 400 percent); drive e-commerce via direct delivery; and explore more export territories keen to stock a great British brand. In November, in partnership with Fernet Branca, one of the largest global independently owned spirits companies, we launched in Italy, predicted to be the world’s third-fastest growing territory for super-premium gin within the next five years.

This year we’re launching in the Caribbean, where our cricketing heritage – which we cherish as part of our DNA – can only help. We also have some interesting new conversations underway with the MCC – under wraps for now – and a three-year partnership with Goodwood racing.

All of which makes for an exciting year ahead.’

‘WE SPENT SEVEN MONTHS COMPLETELY REDESIGNING THIS GREAT BRITISH BRAND TO MAKE IT CURRENT FOR TODAY’

Alex Johns, Chief Executive

TIMELINE

1736

The first generation of Nicholson Gin is born when the family begin distilling in Clerkenwell, London

1830

J&W Nicholson & Co begins developing the first London dry gin and becomes one of the largest and most successful distillers

1930

Nicholson Gin features in The Savoy Cocktail Book, the best bars in London, New York and the Far East and, of course, Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails

2017

The company, sold in the 1980s, is reacquired from Pernod Ricard

by Nicholson family descendants

2022

Bought by Alex Johns and Steve Goldman, the brand is relaunched following significant investment, with the original recipe in a new bottle and label

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J&W Nicholson & Co Limited’s London Dry Gin

DID YOU KNOW?

1

In 1866, accomplished cricketer William Nicholson loaned funds to the MCC to purchase the freehold of Lord’s Cricket Ground. A grateful MCC adopted his ‘egg and bacon’ colours for their own.

2

The MCC’s new Pavilion opened in 1890, funded

by Nicholson. It was affectionately known as the ‘Gin Palace’.

3 4

At 85,000 sq/ft, Three Mills Distillery, bought in 1873, was one of the world’s largest.

Nicholson became the official gin of Goodwood Racecourse in 2022, and has signed ITV Racing presenter Oli Bell as its first ambassador.

5

Nicholson sponsors The Cricketer Cup, the public school old boys’ cricket competition.

J&W NICHOLSON & CO LIMITED 15 Stratton Street London W1J 8LQ nicholsongin.com nicholsongin

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GBB 2023 —— N

NINA CAMPBELL

The designer expanding back to where she began on Pimlico Road

‘W

hat’s really changed our lives recently is Zoom, as I managed to start designing three houses during the pandemic. Though nothing beats travelling, we’ve really learnt to communicate with our customers on Zoom and one of our greatest achievements has been seeing a house in America rise out of the boulders and mud. Now I’m back to travelling as normal and have been to Australia, where I’ve designed Melbourne’s Alexandra Club, and Jordan, to refresh a house we designed 14 years ago. I also worked on a men’s club in a colossal

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

The brand offers a few vintage pieces in store, sourced by its wonderful team.

All its beloved furniture designs are made in England and are completely customisable and bespoke.

In the 1960s Nina Campbell redesigned iconic Mayfair club Annabel’s.

but rather beautiful early 20th century block in Chicago. It was fun making it a bit more comfortable and friendly.

Thanks to my daughter, we’re doing incredibly well online and my son bought a lot of new stock so when we reopened the shop, customers were so happy. One woman was overwhelmed with delight by all our lovely tabletop stuff, as she’d got so used to using the same dishes and napkins every day in lockdown.

We’re still suffering slightly from Brexit but luckily we have a strong market in America and the Middle East. Like everyone, we’re facing soaring prices this winter but when I had a shop on Pimlico Road in the 1970s and had all those power cuts we made do with candles in the window and it looked gorgeous and inviting.

I know many people are facing desperately serious hardship, but lots of us have become a bit mollycoddled and we can get by with hurricane lamps and extra sweaters.

My excitement for 2023 is my new book, about an extraordinary house in Maine that I designed.

And we’re going back to where we started by expanding into our new Pimlico Road shop, where we’ll all be under one roof and busier than ever.’

Nina Campbell, founder

In 2023 Nina is releasing her sixth book, chronicling an incredible project she’s been working on in Maine.

Nina Campbell is a proud family business with two of Nina’s three children on board: Max as MD and Alice as head of communications.

NINA CAMPBELL 9 Walton Street London SW3 2JD +44(0) 207 225 1011 ninacampbell.com ninacampbellltd

From tableware and furniture to international projects, Nina Campbell offers an innovative, 360° approach to interiors

TIMELINE

1972

Nina founds the company in September 1972 and opens a shop with Mark Birley on Pimlico Road. One of her first commissions is to design a castle in Scotland

1989

Signs a licence with Osborne & Little to start the wallpaper and fabric side of the business.

To this day, it launches two collections a year

2008

Nina Campbell launches its furniture collection, all made in England to order. The collection includes upholstery, metal furniture and wood pieces

2023

As the brand celebrates its 51st birthday, Nina Campbell opens a new showroom in Pimlico Road, back where it all began

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GBB 2023 —— N

NO.3 GIN

The award-winning gin brand in pursuit of the perfect martini

‘N

o.3 Gin was created to be the best that a gin can be to craft the perfect martini, but also as a standalone s pirit .

We w ante d something very traditional and classic in style. Consequently, we opted for London Dry. We also wanted a gin that is simple in recipe yet very elegant, so we only have six botanicals with three key flavours: juniper, citrus and spice.

That is layered over a wonderful spirit base that lends lots of lovely silky texture.

Last year, we partnered with Nude, a fantastic glassware producer, and the University of Leeds to create the perfect martini glass. The martini is one of the most famous cocktails in the world, and very much a signature and hero serve for us. Temperature is at the heart of a perfect martini, so we worked with the university’s thermodynamics department to create the ultimate martini glass in collaboration with NUDE glassware. The glass is handblown from crystal and finished with a fine-rimmed bowl and slender stem. Through this scientifically inspired design it keeps your martini cooler for almost twice as long as a classic glass.

We have exciting plans for the future, both in the UK and globally.

We are working with some of the best retailers, bars and hotels, including Harvey Nichols, Dukes Bar, Claridge’s, The Ritz and Fallow

No.3 Gin is the world’s most awarded gin brand

TIMELINE

2008

Berry Bros. & Rudd started work to refine the recipe for the perfect new London Dry Gin

2010

Berry Bros. & Rudd launched No.3 London Dry Gin after two years of careful development and refinement

2019

No.3 Gin launched their new bottle retaining the iconic key, which was modelled on the one to our parlour at St James’s where the gin was created

2019

No.3 Gin is awarded ‘World’s Best’ for a fourth time at the ISC, and the first gin ever to win ‘World’s Best Spirit’

2022

No.3 Gin launches its first Global Cocktail Competition

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‘WE HAVE EXCITING PLANS FOR THE FUTURE, BOTH IN THE UK AND GLOBALLY’ restaurant, and are excited about the partnerships we’re creating.

This includes wonderful events planned across the UK this year where we are very much looking forward to sharing our exquisite liquid. One such event will be the Gold Cup at Cowdray Park Polo Club. We began our partnership with Cowdray Park Polo Club last year and are looking forward to working with them on their exciting calendar, serving delicious No.3 cocktails and, of course, gin and tonics.’

Ross Bryant, Global Brand Ambassador

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

It took over two years for a team of leading gin experts to create the perfect liquid.

One of the experts was Dr David Clutton – the only person in the world to have a PhD in gin.

There are six perfectly balanced botanicals in No.3 Gin: coriander, angelica root, cardamom, grapefruit peel, sweet orange peel and – of course – juniper.

4

The gin is named after Berry Bros. & Rudd’s premises at No.3 St James’s, where the wine and spirits merchant has been since they were founded in 1698.

5

The brand is the only gin ever to be awarded ‘World’s Best’ four times at the International Spirits Challenge, the world’s most respected spirits competition.

NO.3 GIN 3 St James’s Street London SW1A 1EG no3gin.com no3gin

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GBB 2023 —— O

OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS

Creating exclusive properties with unique character in prime locations

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‘O

ctagon’s mission was always to be a quality luxury brand.

We’re very much traditional but innovative with the materials we use to keep that quality look and feel about the Octagon product. We’re not a volume builder – we only build between 100 to 200 houses per year – and, with the Octagon brand, it must be in prime locations on the right side of the street. So, you get the best of the best at the end of the day.

Over the last 42 years, we have seen many peaks and troughs in the market, but you learn how to ride them. We stick to our key

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

The brand was set up in 1980 with the aim of building eight houses a year by eight employees – hence ‘Octagon’.

Octagon’s biggest wine cellar to date houses over 3,000 bottles, including some of the best wines in the world.

The brand has many return clients, one of whom loved Octagon so much they bought 12 properties… and could come back for more.

principles of design-led schemes and quality building, all within the right locations, which means our properties remain in high demand.

It’s about focusing on what we are good at and making sure we continue to do that in a difficult market. Our vision is to grow the business in a balanced way and keep our core values close to our heart. Quality always sells.

Our craftspeople are core to us because they get that quality right. We have a very close community in our supply chain and we support our independent craftsmen by paying them well and on time, and offering continual work. They are very much part of the wider Octagon team and essential to our brand values.

We have just launched Faircross, a super mansion on the Wentworth Estate, which has a guide price of £22 million. This amazing home has five reception rooms, six bedroom suites and an indoor leisure complex. We are also set to launch two exceptional homes within the Manor House at our Broadoaks Park gated estate in West Byfleet. The Grade II-listed building will offer a unique opportunity to purchase a piece of history in this commuter-friendly Surrey village.’

4 5

Staff retention is very important – over 60 percent of employees have been with Octagon for more than ten years.

While at university, Octagon CEO Tim Banks set up a business importing batik boxer shorts from Indonesia, and selling them on a market stall in Camden.

OCTAGON DEVELOPMENTS LTD Weir House, Hurst Road East Molesey KT8 9AY +44 (0)20 8481 7500 octagon.co.uk octagondevelopments

Wherever Octogan builds, you can be sure it’s in the best location and uses the best British craftship and materials

Tim Banks, CEO

PHOTOS: © RICHARD CHIVERS

TIMELINE

1980

Octagon is born from a vision of building high quality homes in the very best locations – an ethos that continues to this day

1986

Octagon is one of the first developers to sell a home for £1m+ outside London – and enjoys many more industry firsts

2014

Allowing clients to create a completely unique home with the help of the brand’s expert team, the Octagon Bespoke division begins

2020

Offering a complete end-to-end design and build in-house service, Octagon Interiors launches with resounding success

2021

Chancery Homes launches under the Octagon Group, meeting industry demand for more high-quality, accessibly priced housing

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GBB 2023 —— O

ONEFINESTAY Renting exceptional homes, villas and chalets in the world’s most desirable locations

‘A

cross the board, bounceback in demand for travel after the end of the pandemic was much stronger than the industry had anticipated. Some rebound had, of course, been expected but the strength of it was the result of pent-up demand and the availability of disposable funds unconsciously set aside during the pandemic for travel. The result was a real effervescence in demand, especially in the luxury sector, which had a tremendous impact on our sourcing strategy. People seemed to want to get together in larger groups and for longer

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

onefinestay was the first hospitality brand to identify a gap in the market for the rental of high-end private homes.

periods than previously. It also seemed that clients were spending more than they had typically done in previous years.

This unexpected surge in demand caused difficulties in the supply chain and in delivery.

We tackled this by expanding our portfolio in the regions where we were already strong, for example, the Caribbean, especially Barbados, and Europe, in particular Ibiza.

By doing this, we’ve kept pace with the acceleration in demand.

We were proud to be recognised as one of the world’s top three villa rental companies in the Condé Nast Traveller 2022 Readers’ Choice Awards.

In 2023, our biggest challenge is, and should remain, quality. We need to continue to offer our guests the highest standards of customer service and to attract exceptional homes, villas and chalets to the portfolio. As the company grows, we need to maintain the personal relationships which made it a success in the first place. Trust is at the centre of what we do; it’s our currency of choice with our homeowners. onef ines tay takes it s commitment to sustainability very seriously. We are in the process of calculating our carbon footprint so that we can give guests and homeowners a choice in travelling more sustainably. Sustainability will form an increasingly important element of our decision-making in the future.’

It offers over 4,500 homes, villas, and chalets in 50 global destinations. The teams rigorously inspect every one to ensure it is fully equipped for an exceptional experience.

3

Homes, villas, and chalets at onefinestay are handpicked for their character, comfort, and location, as well as their sense of style, elegance and beauty.

4

onefinestay’s complimentary concierge goes above and beyond to curate personalised itineraries for guests, from childcare or a private chef to a wine tasting or a sunset boat trip.

5

The brand nurtures personal relationships with their homeowners who choose to enjoy the benefits of short-term renting and the assurance that someone is looking after their home as if it were their own.

onefinestay’s portfolio of luxury homes, villas and chalets offer exceptional and highly personlised holidays

ONEFINESTAY 5 Merchant Square London W2 1AY +44 (0)800 808 5830 onefinestay.com onefinestay

Ian Di Tullio, co-CEO

TIMELINE

2010

onefinestay is founded in London

by British entrepreneur Greg Marsh, who was inspired by a trip to Pisa

2016

The company joins global hospitality expert Accor Hotels’ luxury portfolio of brands

2018

onefinestay’s villa collection in the Caribbean, Asia, Mexico, and southern Europe is enlarged

2021

Expands into new destinations including the chalet collection in the US Rockies and villa collection in Ibiza

2022

onefinestay now offers over 4,500 homes, villas and chalets in 50 global destinations to its discerning guests

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GBB 2023 —— HOTELS

theLIST

Ten of the Most Exciting UK hotel Openings in 2023 Reservations at the ready, says OLIVIA EMILY

2

1 HOTEL MAYFAIR, LONDON SPRING 2023

Putting the ‘green’ in Green Park, 1 Hotels’ UK flagship has luxurious sustainable design across 184 rooms, with a Bamford Spa and floors crafted from local parks’ fallen trees. 1hotels.com

1

BARNSDALE LODGE, RUTLAND MARCH 2023

From hunting lodge to rural gem: over in England’s smallest county, Rutland, Barnsdale Lodge is being exquisitely refurbished by Hector Ross, also of the team behind The Retreat at Elcot Park. barnsdalelodge.co.uk

4

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MAYFAIR, LONDON

3

DAO BY DORSETT HORNSEY TOWN HALL, LONDON SPRING 2023

One of the UK’s first major Modernist buildings will become part-aparthotel in 2023 – alongside Hornsey Art Centre’s co-working space, cinema, and rooftop bar – with 68 fully serviced apartments and suites. dorsetthotels.com

SPRING 2023

Mandarin Oriental’s new, discreet and sleek London property in Hanover Square will house 50 guestrooms, 78 private residences, and the UK’s first Akira Back restaurant from the namesake chef. mandarinoriental.com

5

ROOM2, BELFAST SPRING 2023

Following the success of Chiswick’s 'whole life net-zero' development, the hometel is landing in Belfast, with 175 rooms across nine floors, alongside a restaurant, bar, cafe, work space, and gym. room2.com

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6

8

NO42 MARGATE

BY GUESTHOUSE SPRING 2023

Offering 21 boutique rooms, hotel brand GuestHouse will arrive in Kent’s artiest seaside town in spring.

It'll also embrace the nostalgia of its Victorian beachfront location in the restaurant, rooftop bar and spa. guesthousehotels.co.uk

TREEHOUSE HOTEL, MANCHESTER EARLY 2023

Following the London branch’s success, Treehouse takes Manchester, restoring a Brutalist building with reclaimed materials, featuring fine dining, living green walls and a rooftop bar, garden and apiary. treehousehotels.com

7

100 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH SPRING 2023

Carefully restoring the building’s iconic features, Red Carnation Hotels’ first Scottish property will celebrate Edinburgh’s heritage, working with local artisans on finer details (like tartan by Araminta Campbell). 100princes-street.com

9

RAFFLES LONDON AT THE OWO SPRING 2023

Once home to statesmen and spies, now a London hotspot: Raffles’ monumental and luxurious transformation of the Grade II*-listed Old War Office on Whitehall will be unveiled in spring. theowo.london

10

WILDES HOTEL, CHESTER SPRING 2023

This £5 million historic restoration will house 18 rooms, a spa with a rooftop pool overlooking the city, and a destination restaurant and bar by Roux scholarshipwinning chef Harry Guy. wildesgroup.com

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GBB 2023 —— O

OSKIA

Pioneer of results-driven, bio-nutritional skincare, designed to improve skin health

‘A

s a nutritional skincare brand, the biggest issue over the last year has been the availability and pricing of raw ingredients in our formulations. However, this has provided an opportunity to re-evaluate those ingredients.

Sunflower oil, for instance, used in our spa products, comes from Ukraine. Supply has tightened and prices quadrupled so we substituted in rapeseed oil. In skin feel and benefits there is little between them, but the UK-grown rapeseed oil fits with our desire to source sustainably, closer-tohome. So, despite the six-month regulatory cycle of safety testing and registration that happens with any ingredient change, there are positives to come out of these challenges.

We are lucky: we launched in 2009, before social media, and have maintained growth in the current economic climate. Now, new brands appear almost daily and many don’t last long. We have an incredibly loyal customer base and I think in times of uncertainty, people stick with what they trust.

In terms of a single achievement, we’ve been formulating a new acne range called “Violet Water”, which launches this spring. The clinical trial results recently came back and they are phenomenal. In two weeks, the products reduce the acne count by up to 35 percent and acne bacteria by up to 96 percent.

At the heart of what we do is helping alleviate skin concerns and

Cutting-edge science is at the heart of OSKIA’S award-winning formulations

TIMELINE

2009

OSKIA is founded

by Georgie Cleeve and George Gordon after four years of research and development

2014

The company has collected over 100 beauty awards recognising its innovative nutritional approach and exceptional skincare formulations

2017

OSKIA expands into spa and wellness through the design of bespoke ranges for prestigious luxury hotels Cliveden House and Chewton Glen

2019

OSKIA invests in its factory and laboratory in the rolling hills of Monmouth, significantly increasing UK production capabilities

2022

OSKIA now has over 200 awards to its name and is available in 64 countries across the globe

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‘AT THE HEART OF WHAT WE DO IS HELPING ALLEVIATE SKIN CONCERNS AND IN DOING SO, IMPROVE CONFIDENCE’ in doing so, improve people’s selfconfidence, and we think this range will have a hugely positive impact on many lives.

There is an enormous amount of misinformation about skincare ingredients on social media, and from self-styled beauty professionals.

We need to find ways to cut through the noise and re-educate people on the truth of skin problems.

This is nuanced messaging, about complicated issues, so it takes time and money. But it’s vital, and probably the thing we care about most.’

Georgie Cleeve, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4 5

The name OSKIA comes from two Ancient Greek words meaning ‘to deliver’ and ‘beauty’.

The key mineral used in OSKIA products was originally used to help repair damaged cartilage in the joints of racehorses.

OSKIA designed, produced and donated over 30,000 hand sanitisers to NHS facilities across South Wales in the summer of 2020.

One of the brand’s best-selling Renaissance Cleansing Gels is sold every seven minutes.

One of OSKIA’s exceptionally technical anti-pollution ingredients costs £47,800 per kilo, more than the price of gold.

OSKIA Techways, Wonastow Road West Monmouth NP25 5JA +44 (0)1600 710710 oskiaskincare.com oskiaskincare

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GBB 2023 —— O

THE OWO

Winston Churchill’s Old War Office transformed into London’s first Raffles hotel and branded residences

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‘A

cross the past six years, we’ve been working to create a new destination for the capital, and when The OWO opens later this year, the public will be able to step inside this British institution for the first time. There’s truly nothing like it – a flagship Raffles hotel and 85 branded private residences will sit alongside nine restaurants, three bars, an immersive Guerlain spa, Pillar health club, and a 620-capacity ballroom.

When we opened the sales of our residences in 2020, it was with the intention of welcoming prospective buyers in London to visit in person.

DID YOU KNOW?

1 Across the pandemic, we had to pivot quickly and find ways to recreate experiences virtually, presenting our show residences online, via film and CGIs. A challenge, but the rare opportunity The OWO presents still shone through, testament to the building’s historical significance and beauty.

The OWO now spans 760,000 sq/ ft, with an interior courtyard dividing the 120-bedroom hotel and the 85 private residences. Because of the hexagonal shape of the building, it was like a jigsaw puzzle fitting everything together, but clever planning has resulted in residences each unique in size and layout.

The building’s history has informed every stage of its transformation. We worked on a book to document The OWO’s past, gathering historic photographs which gave us an understanding of the original purpose of its numerous rooms. Many women undertook amazing work here and we have ensured that certain rooms are named after these individuals.

We’ve also of course given serious thought to partners we’ve brought on board and are working with British craftspeople throughout the refurbishment. An exciting collaboration is underway with the National Portrait Gallery and Frieze, with whom we’re developing the art strategy for the building. Each of our esteemed partners has played a pivotal role as we usher the landmark building into a new era.’

Britain’s most influential political and military leaders held office here, including David Lloyd George, John Profumo and Earl Kitchener.

2

The Old War Office inspired Ian Fleming to write his James Bond series after working for Britain’s Naval Intelligence Service. It has featured in five Bond films.

3 4

The building boasts a spectacular interior courtyard, similar in size to the famous courtyard at the Royal Academy.

Michelin awarded chef Mauro Colagreco will make his London debut at The OWO, offering three concepts including a fine dining restaurant and chef’s table experience.

5

The Spa at Raffles London will be home to a dedicated Guerlain wellness concept and a members’ health club by movement specialists Pillar.

Imbued with history at every turn, the Old War Offices have been sensitively and carefully restored and reimagined for the next century

THE OWO Whitehall London SW1A 2EU +44 (0)20 7139 5012 theowo.london theowo.london

Shalini Hinduja (Hinduja Group) and Jenny Naylor (Head of Marketing, The OWO)

PHOTOS: © MARTIN MORELL

TIMELINE

1906

Construction completed.

Original architect William Young dies in 1900, and his son Clyde Young continues work on the building

1919

The War Office is used as the HQ of Winston Churchill, Secretary of State for War from 1919 to 1921

2016

Building is acquired in a joint venture led by the Hinduja Group, who engaged experts like English Heritage and Mola for the renovation

2021

The OWO Residences pre-sales outperformed the Prime Central London market, setting a record for values achieved for price per square foot

2023

The first-ever Raffles hotel in the UK and Rafflesserviced residences in Europe open, delivering an unparalleled destination for London

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ROYAL SHAKESPEARE THEATRE S T R AT F O R D  U P O N  AVO N

JANUARYOCTOBER 2023

W I L L I A M

W I L L I A M

S H A K E S P E A R E

S H A K E S P E A R E

ON SALE FEBRUARY

W I L L I A M

S H A K E S P E A R E

W I L L I A M S H A K E S P E A R E

The work of the RSC is supported by the Culture Recovery Fund

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PQR

GBB 2023

PENHALIGON’S 244 PRAGNELL 246 PRESTAT 248

REALLY WILD 250

RED SAVANNAH 252

RHODIUM 254 RIVIERE RUGS 256 ROBINSON PELHAM 258 ROCOCO 260 ROLLS-ROYCE 262 RSL 264

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GBB 2023 —— P

PENHALIGON’S Entertaining the world’s nostrils with a dose of Britishness since 1870

‘L

ast year was a very positive one for us, with exceptional results and exceptional growth, despite the challenges.

When pandemic restrictions were lifted, the fragrance sector boomed as consumers in Europe and the Middle East looked for fragrances that were more meaningful to them; more in tune with their mood and a heightened sense of their wellbeing, which they had developed during lockdown.

Prior to the pandemic, demand from

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DID YOU KNOW?

Chinese consumers – who really appreciate our “Britishness with a twist” and know as much about the fragrances as we do – was increasing exponentially.

I think of Penhaligon’s as an ambassador of the British spirit and culture around the world. We have a royal warrant so we have to respect tradition, but we also have to make it relevant by finding a balance between heritage and a more lighthearted tone of voice.

As such, the brand is divided into three fragrance pillars – ‘British Tales’, ‘Portraits’ and ‘Trade Routes’.

Last year we successfully launched a new fragrance in each collection: Highgrove Boquet (“British Tales”), inspired by the Tilia Petiolaris, or weeping silver lime trees, at His Majesty King Charles’s beautiful country estate; The World According to Arthur (“Portraits”), which, like the other fragrances in the “Portraits”collection, pays tribute to the English spirit; and The Legacy of Petra (“Trade Routes”), which contains notes of myrrh, fennel and liquorice wood. Response to all three fragrances has been outstanding.

We’re now one of the leading niche fragrance brands in the Middle East, Europe and Asia. The next big move for us will be to crack the US, but I’m sure it will respond positively to our tone of voice. I know we have the right formula and believe the year ahead will be another positive one for Penhaligon’s.’

1 2 3 4

Penhaligon’s notable customers have included Oscar Wilde, Winston Churchill and Maria Callas.

William Penhaligon was the official barber and perfumer to the royal court of Queen Victoria.

Highgrove Bouquet was inspired by and created in partnership with the gardens at Highgrove House.

Penhaligon’s square bottle stoppers were changed when it was discovered that his original stoppers were in fact circular.

5

Penhaligon’s fragrances were once blended and bottled in its Covent Garden Wellington Street store.

PENHALIGON’S 125 Regent Street London W1B 4HT +44 (0)20 7434 2608 penhaligons.com penhaligons_london

Penhaligon’s renowned scents have fans across the globe

Thomas James, Niche Brands Chief Brands Officer at Penhaligon’s parent company Puig

TIMELINE

1870

Penhaligon’s is founded

by William Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who sets up his first London shop on Jermyn Street

1872

William creates his first perfume, Hammam Bouquet, inspired by the Turkish Baths where he’s the resident barber

1902

Inspired by Blenheim Palace gardens, William’s son Walter creates the Blenheim Bouquet for the 9th Duke of Marlborough

1903

Upon hearing the news of William’s passing, Queen Alexandra awards Penhaligon’s its first Royal Warrant

1998

Penhaligon’s is granted another Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales, now HM King Charles III

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GBB 2023 —— P

PRAGNELL

Purveyors of exquisite rare gems for six generations

A‘

lthough this year’s been tricky at times, we are agile enough to adapt and weather the storms. We’ll continue to focus on the uncompromising quality of the craftsmanship of our jewellery and watches, and our personal service.

Waters & Blott, on my mother’s side of the family, has been making jewellery in London for over 170 years, and we’ve been serving customers to a high standard under the Pragnell name since 1954 in Stratford-upon-Avon. We owned Philip Antrobus in Bond Street [makers of Queen Elizabeth II’s engagement ring] but it was only in 2018 that we opened the Mount Street store, with “Pragnell” over the door. It was a step change, bringing our different companies under one name.

Early in 2019 we realised that we had underestimated the demand for a Mayfair-based family jeweller offering a full, personal service. So, in 2022, we doubled our showroom’s size.

Patek Philippe and Rolex have their own dedicated spaces. The exciting highlight of our trade is the variety of our customers, from Middle Eastern Sheikhs, African leaders and financiers to royals, actors and musicians.

The price of rare diamonds has appreciated significantly over recent years. They are viewed as an investment class by some customers, who are ever more informed and able to distinguish authenticity

The late Queen’s engagement ring was a bespoke creation by Philip Antrobus Pragnell’s exquisite fine jewellery has adorned everyone from royalty to rockstars

instantly. With many of our pieces, customers can see exactly where our diamonds have come from – our finest are often from Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia and Canada.

Ultimately, rare beauty has lasting value, whether that’s a 1960s Ferrari or a royal blue Kashmiri sapphire.

The most beautiful jewels’ value seems to hold, and that’s often regarded as an appealing, tangible hedge against other investment possibilities. All Pragnell’s fine jewellery pieces are made in its British workshops by its talented team of jewellers and apprentices.

The major development of 2022 was installing our walk-in diamond vault. Mount Street had to be closed three times for cranes to lower it in. We’re excited about having that open in 2023.’

Charlie Pragnell, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1815

Philip Antrobus, maker of Elizabeth II’s engagement ring, founded on Bond St

1850

Waters & Blott, a fine jewellery manufacturer, is started in London

1913

George Tarratt starts in Leicester with watch and jewellery workshops

1954

George and Margaret Pragnell found Pragnell in Stratford-upon-Avon

2018

Pragnell opens its first London store under the family name on Mount St

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Pragnell’s Stratford-uponAvon building, with its Jacobean ceiling, was built in 1585 by Abraham Sturley, a friend of both William Shakespeare and King James I.

2

Pragnell owns a locket sent to one of Napoleon’s lovers containing a lock of his hair – the locket has never been photographed.

3 4

The Pragnell family tiara has been worn at three coronations.

Prince Philip commissioned a diamond ring for the Queen from Philip Antrobus under the chandelier that is hung in the new Mount Street diamond ring showroom.

5

Pragnell is a proud patron of the Prince’s Trust, with two of its watch workshop technicians coming from the scheme.

PRAGNELL Stratford-upon-Avon Leicester and Mayfair pragnell.co.uk pragnelljewellery

‘RARE BEAUTY HAS LASTING VALUE, WHETHER THAT’S A 1960S FERRARI OR A ROYAL BLUE KASHMIRI SAPPHIRE’

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GBB 2023 —— P

PRESTAT

The luxury chocolatier embracing a bright future

‘L

ast year was monumental for Prestat as we celebrated our 120th anniversary. Since 1902, Prestat has always focused on quality – it’s paramount to everything we do.

Quality with a flare of whimsical fun. We have always and will always be a very joyous brand – colourful in nature.

To celebrate our anniversary, we decided to go big, as Prestat is far from ordinary. We studied Prestat’s history, understanding what has made the colourful brand what it is today. Then our designers drew at least 50 illustrations that made the magical world of Prestat come to life. We chose vibrant colours and redesigned all of the products plus launched a few new recipes and a new website.

However, the key challenge remains being a small-scale luxury manufacturer. So, as we grow – we just acquired Rococo Chocolates – and the volume of products increases, we always ensure we produce the same high-quality products. Another challenge has been the labour market.

We are a people-first company.

So, what has helped us overcome the labour shortage is to really invest in our team. We’re familydriven and our employees are part of our family.

Looking to the future, we are focusing much more on sustainable practices and working towards B Corp certification.

We’ve switched to 100 percent organic chocolate and removed 90 percent of our plastic packaging.

In addition, we are looking into

Prestat recently made the switch to completely organic chocolate, and have made significant efforts to remove extraneous packaging

TIMELINE

1895

Prestat founder, Antoine Dufour, a master chocolatier, invents the first-ever chocolate truffle and brings it to London

1902

Antoine opens Prestat, his first chocolaterie, on South Molton Street. It’s a hidden gem with truffles galore, giving Prestat its fame and fortune

1975

The brand earns its first royal appointment from Her Majesty the Queen Mother, becoming the Royal family’s chosen chocolatier

1999

Prestat is granted a second Royal Warrant.

It’s rumoured that the Queen Mother always kept a Prestat Mint Box in her desk

2019

The brand is bought

by Domori and the Illy Group, which work together to craft chocolates with the finest single origin cocoa

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‘WE HAVE ALWAYS AND WILL ALWAYS BE A VERY JOYOUS BRAND – COLOURFUL IN NATURE’ carbon management platforms to monitor our energy usage.

We’re always trying to find efficiencies to decrease our use of resources.

Subsequently, this year we’ll continue to increase our online marketing. The idea is to leverage and increase our presence in export markets. We have a very solid presence in the UK but it is our aim for the whole world to taste a Prestat truffle, which is a necessity for everyone in their lifetime.’

Micaela Illy, CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3 4

Prestat’s founder, Antoine Dufour, invented the chocolate truffle.

All of its milk and dark chocolates are made with single origin Ivory Coast aromatic cacao.

To this day, Prestat’s maître chocolatiers still work with hundreds of the original recipes, such as the Napoleon III Truffle.

Prestat’s milk and dark chocolate is made with a variety of cocoa grown in Oulaidon on the Ivory Coast. This Fair Trade supply chain is maintained by the Choco Fair Côte d’Ivoire network.

5

Prestat create its chocolates and truffles in its factory in the heart of London.

PRESTAT Unit 8 Powergate Business Park Volt Avenue London NW10 6PW prestat.com prestatfinesttruffles

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GBB 2023 —— R

REALLY WILD Refined city styling meets wild heritage

‘W

e are known for our sharp wool tailoring and easy-to-wear wardrobe staples that work well day-tonight and work-to-weekend.

Quality and commitment to craft is a brand hallmark and it’s this, coupled with customers’ loyalty over two decades, which has stood us in good stead for all the challenges that have come our way recently.

We opened our flagship store in Sloane Square just before Covid hit. The store is situated in the heart of buzzing Chelsea and there is a friendly, village-like feel to the area; it’s also popular with international travellers. Obviously the latter were unable to visit us during the various lockdowns but they soon returned when restrictions were lifted.

As we produce on limited runs, we were lucky enough to be able to move quickly when the pandemic hit and adjust our collections accordingly. This approach to production is more relevant than ever today: I design each piece with consummate care to give value to every range. Versatility in the designs themselves remains key. As more women work from home or explore life beyond the city while keeping a foot in town it is a highly relevant approach.

What the period we have just faced has shown us is that our brand has real staying power.

Last year we celebrated our 20th anniversary. We couldn’t have done it without our customers

Really Wild’s collections are designed to work for both town and country

TIMELINE

2002

Natalie Lake launches the brand from her Oxfordshire home

2017

Really Wild opens its first physical store in Marlow

2018

The brand launches its first pop-up store in Duke of York Square, London

2019

Really Wild’s flagship store opens in Sloane Square, Chelsea

2022

The brand celebrates its milestone 20th anniversary

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‘WE ARE PROUD TO CONTINUE TO PRODUCE BRITISH DESIGNS THAT CELEBRATE OUR HERITAGE’ and we are proud to continue to produce British designs that celebrate our heritage and feel as relevant to our wardrobes as they did when we started.

In the coming years we hope to broaden our international appeal by opening more stores and defining our collections through listening to our customers. I feel very positive about the future and excited by what the next 20 years might hold.’

Natalie Lake, founder and Creative Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Natalie Lake still designs every garment in the Really Wild collections. She calls them her ‘creations’.

All of the brand’s knitwear and tweeds are knitted or woven at some of Scotland’s oldest mills, including the renowned Linton mill that produces all of Chanel’s house tweeds.

3

The brand uses naturally biodegradable fabrics such as silks and the finest wools that are then crafted into investment pieces that will last.

4 5

The brand has worked with Liberty London for two decades to feature its printed silks and cottons.

Really Wild works with generations of highly skilled craftspeople and artisans, helping to protect traditions and supporting techniques which reflect our glorious countryside traditions.

REALLY WILD 53 Sloane Square London SW1W 8AX +44 (0)1491 352600 reallywildclothing.com reallywildclothing

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GBB 2023 —— R The Nautilus, Maldives

RED SAVANNAH

Tailor-made travel and luxury villas

Singita Ebony

‘M

any things have been hard over the last year including, obviously, the pandemic. Not least because the government changed the rules on travel around ten times during 2021. When you think that travel was illegal for almost half the year, it’s a miracle any travel companies survived. Then, last November… BOOM. In the blink of an eye, the business went from ten to 100 mph. And we had a third fewer staff.

It didn’t help that the global supply chain took an age to recover. Last summer in the southern Mediterranean there

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Taking the Roman maxim of ‘solvitur ambulando’, the idea for Red Savannah was born when George Morgan-Grenville walked the 124-mile Cotswold Way in 2010.

were at least 400,000 vacant jobs across hospitality and travel. Most clients, however, still expected pre-pandemic levels of service, which we were only able to deliver through our close relationships with suppliers. Perhaps our biggest achievement is that we made it through the pandemic with zero complaints or lawsuits, while all those who wanted a refund received one immediately. As a result, trust in the Red Savannah brand grew, together with a 230 percent increase in sales over the last year. In fact, we were one of the few travel companies who managed to pay staff bonuses. In today’s world, a brand must be underpinned by real substance. We’ve always embraced the concept of “Truth, Transparency and Trust” and, paradoxically, the pandemic enabled us to deliver those in spades.

All businesses need market certainty and stability; two commodities that have recently been in short supply. One additional challenge is the volatility of foreign exchange rates, especially when client bookings are often made many months in advance. Over the years, we have learnt to hedge FX exposure effectively and thus have never applied surcharges. In 2023, inflation and the cost-of-living crisis mean our focus is on keeping costs down and prices competitive, while still providing the ultimate experiential travel.’

2

In 2021, a suitcase stolen from a client’s car was found in a field and reunited with its owner thanks to the distinctive Red Savannah luggage identifier.

3 4

Red Savannah once arranged for a Chanel bracelet to be delivered by scuba diver to a resort on behalf of a client.

Since partnering with Rainforest Trust in 2020, Red Savannah has protected 16,419 acres of rainforest, which equals around 9,307 football pitches.

5

At the company’s tenth anniversary party aboard a decommissioned British Airways 747, the longest-serving staff were given Cartier watches.

Whether they’re staying in the Maldives or the Med, Red Savannah’s clients can always be sure of impeccable service

RED SAVANNAH Eagle Tower Montpellier Drive, Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL50 1TA +44 (0)1242 787800 redsavannah.com redsavannahhq

George Morgan-Grenville, founder and CEO

TIMELINE

2011

Founder and CEO, George Morgan-Grenville launches Red Savannah with ten employees. The first clients travel on 22 September

2013

After two years of providing tailor-made trips, Red Savannah wins The Telegraph Travel Award as Best Tour Operator

2016

Red Savannah expands its dedicated team and moves into larger offices in Eagle Tower in the heart of Cheltenham

2020

Winner of The Queen’s Awards for Enterprise in the International Trade category, presented by the Lord Lieutenant for Gloucestershire

2021

Coinciding with its tenth anniversary, the company acquires Boston-based tour operator Homebase Abroad, which increases its client base in the USA

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GBB 2023 —— R

RHODIUM

Luxury can’t be scaled; Rhodium’s solution for every development is unique

A‘

s a real-estate developer in London prime and superprime in 2011, looking for a suitable property management company to work with, I discovered there was no ultra-luxury service offering both front and back of house.

So Rhodium started as us doing it for ourselves; development clients soon began calling. Our management and consultancy company, founded on the back of clear demand, has grown by a billion pounds annually.

We hit a major milestone in 2020, surpassing the £12 billion mark in properties under management in prime central London. Significant

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in 2022 was The Broadway in Westminster for developer Northacre, which launched in November. Our mobilisation team readied the scheme for homeowners to move in, paying personal attention to every detail; high net worth residents want for nothing, every expectation is managed seamlessly.

We’ve now been appointed by developer Chelsfield to manage Knightsbridge Gardens, a new super-prime residential scheme on Brompton Road, and our first fully tenanted scheme.

As more competitors move into the sector, we focus exclusively on the super-prime space. Providing the highest levels of 360° service demonstrate that Rhodium is unrivalled in the scope and quality of our offering. Our talented people play a critical role in delivering exceptional levels of service, and ensure we stay ahead of the curve of new lifestyle trends and cultural preferences. We stick to our core brand strength, working with developers who are raising the bar, delivering something different to the market, and who value our turnkey solutions.

This year, a fabulous Curzon Street scheme in Mayfair will see designer Thierry Despont, world-renowned for ultra-luxury hotels, make his first foray into London residential super-prime. And now we’re expanding internationally with new projects in Athens: one, the Ellinikon Marina Tower, is the residential heart of the largest regeneration project in Europe, a pioneering development in a world-class coastal park area, with sustainable, state-of-the-art architecture by Foster + Partners.’

Dean Main, founder and Chief Executive

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Rhodium is named after a rare precious metal, scarcer and more valuable than gold and platinum, with the atomic number 45 on the periodic table of elements.

2 3 4

Many of the Rhodium team have come from London’s top five-star hotels, private members clubs and restaurants.

Across the company, 19 different languages are spoken.

Rhodium manages some of the most environmentally responsible residential projects, built using advanced engineering practices.

5

The company is a member of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS), the Institute of Residential Property Management (IRPM), and The Law Society.

RHODIUM RH45 LTD Nightingale House 65 Curzon Street London W1J 8PE +44 (0)20 3457 0970

Rhodium, founded by Dean Main (pictured left), saw a clear gap in the market for ultra-luxury property management

TIMELINE

2011

Rhodium founded to deliver luxury property management for developers in the London prime and super-prime sectors

2015

Rhodium launches inresidence maintenance services for individual apartments of the buildings it manages

2020

The company surpasses a landmark £12 billion portfolio of properties under management across 40 new-build developments

2021

Rhodium expands internationally with the Ellinikon Marina Tower, the first sustainable high-rise building in Greece

2022

Rhodium appointed for its largest scheme to date in the capital – 254 apartments – at The Broadway, Westminster

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GBB 2023 —— R

RIVIERE RUGS Custom rugs of exceptional quality, handmade by artisans in Kathmandu

‘O

verall, we’ve had our best year ever. We have an amazing team, both in London and Nepal, and with lots of new clients we’re continuing to go from strength to strength.

For the fifteenth year running, we had a stand at Decorex, where we launched the “Collage” collection. It’s an in-house design with a neutral palette, based on combining various pile heights and weaving techniques, such as loop and cut pile. It was initially inspired by a piece of antique fabric. We loved the simplicity of it but also the difference in textures, so designed a whole collection around this idea.

This is a look that is very much what our clients are after right now and it’s been super popular.

Riviere’s rugs are works of art for your floor, and are loved by interior designers

TIMELINE

2005

Riviere Rugs founded by Camilla and Leo Riviere, who work with their workshop manager and team of artisans in Kathmandu

2007

Riviere launches at Decorex International.

The response to the rugs – all hand knotted in Nepal – surpasses expectations

2016

The fast-growing company opens a new showroom in the heart of London’s Design District, on Lots Road in Chelsea

2019

Riviere releases the Caledonia Collection with O&A London, relishing the chance to produce lead designer Anna Agapova’s stunning rugs

2021

It launches a collaborative collection with Zoffany, selecting six iconic designs from the brand’s archive and translating them into rugs

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‘THE COLLAGE COLLECTION IS BASED ON COMBINING DIFFERENT TEXTURES, PILE HEIGHTS AND WEAVING TECHNIQUES’ We have a lot of people wanting to collaborate with us; I think a rug is such an amazing medium and we never get tired of making our beautiful custom designs for clients and designers. Most recently, we teamed up with Olga Ashby, a cool, young interior designer, and upcoming British artist Will Solomon. Olga likes pale-coloured rugs so we chose our lightest cream to create the “Step” rug. It consists of abstract shapes accented with sculpted, raised gold yarns.

With Will, we took his painting of a waterfall and translated into a rug called “Through the Falls”. At a preview in the showroom, it sold immediately to a collector. We have already worked with Zoffany and have plans to launch a couple of exciting new designs with it in the new year.’

Camilla Riviere, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

One of Riviere’s signature hand knotted rugs, sized 210x300cm, has over a million knots, each one tied by hand.

Designs are developed from many different sources of inspiration, including travels and found objects, old master paintings, architecture and landscapes.

3

Although it varies according to the complexity of pattern, on average it takes a master weaver roughly one day to weave ten centimetres of rug.

4

Rugs are shipped all over the world, ending up everywhere from palaces in the Middle East to super yachts in Italy, penthouses in New York and castles in Scotland.

5

More and more clients are choosing Tencel silk, which is not only sustainable and durable but also has the same look and feel of real silk.

RIVIERE RUGS 46 Lots Road, London SW10 0QF +44 (0)20 3601 4600 riviererugs.com riviererugs.london

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GBB 2023 —— R

ROBINSON PELHAM Celebrating 25 dazzling years while safeguarding for the future

‘I

n 2022, we marked our 25th anniversary as only jewellers would – that is, by making jewellery and introducing fabulous new additions to our existing ranges and launching new collections. These included “Entwined”, a capsule collection comprising two dazzling geometric diamond rings with overlapping surrounds. Inspired by a bespoke engagement piece, they symbolised a union of two.

We also introduced our “Zouk” earring collection, with its distinctive flicked-up edges inspired by soundwaves, and “Labyrinth”, a collection of rings and pendants featuring a physical maze, whose path and centre are depicted in gemstones, focusing on a journey of positivity.

Sourcing raw materials and working with suppliers has become an issue over recent times, but we are lucky to hold long-term relationships with the most respected in the business. We are also encouraging apprenticeships and training people in specialist skills so that we have numerous options on the doorstep rather than relying on, say, one overseas specialist. As a drive to become more independent and to minimise air miles, we are also working with more freelance goldsmiths who are based here in the UK. We’re working towards production security, so that we have all the skills and everything we need within our own walls.

This year, we’ll be extending our “Ear Menu”, which is our entry level, bestselling collection. It has 13 hoops in four different sizes and 120

The jeweller’s colourful, joyful designs have become its signature

TIMELINE

1997

Robinson Pelham is launched by partners Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon and Kate Pelham Burn as a salon privé, making bespoke designs

2011

Kate Middleton wears Robinson Pelham’s diamond earrings for her wedding to Prince William

2012

Robinson Pelham opens its flagship boutique on Elystan Street in Chelsea.

The store is a blaze of colour, including a yellow velvet sofa

2013

The brand starts retailing in Japan, working on a programme of pop-ups and events to engage with the specific demands of this market

2022

Robinson Pelham celebrates its 25th anniversary at the Couture Show in Las Vegas in addition to launching four new jewellery collections

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‘WE’RE WORKING TOWARDS PRODUCTION SECURITY, SO THAT WE HAVE ALL THE SKILLS AND EVERYTHING WE NEED WITHIN OUR OWN WALLS’ charms, or EarWishes, making for over 6,000 possible combinations.

We didn’t think we would need to introduce more, but many people collect them, so the line is being extended due to popular demand.

About ten years ago, we used to throw piercing parties and people absolutely loved them, so we’ve decided to revive these as a slightly late anniversary celebration in late spring. They’re going to be a great deal of fun.’

Zoe Benyon, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The Robinson Pelham team has an average of five piercings each, ranging from two to nine, and they enjoy using the ‘Ear Menu’ to create unique looks each day.

2

The brand’s Identity necklace is one of Gwyneth Paltrow’s favourites. She can often be seen wearing it day-to-night in addition to selling it on Goop.com.

3

Robinson Pelham offers 13 colours of Orb hoops in four different sizes and 120 EarWish charms, meaning you can make a staggering 6,240 different earrings!

4

Sales of the brand’s silver and Murano glass bead Ukraine bracelets in blue and yellow have raised £12,500 and counting for the Red Cross Ukraine Appeal.

5

Over the last 25 years, Robinson Pelham has made over 16,600 bespoke pieces of jewellery.

Highlights include a tiara that breaks down into a necklace, pendant, earrings and tummy button ring.

ROBINSON PELHAM 39 Elystan Street London SW3 3NT +44 (0)20 77828 3492 robinsonpelham.com robinsonpelham

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GBB 2023 —— R

ROCOCO

Award-winning chocolatier celebrating a new dawn

‘T

he love of my life has always been Rococo. The design, the care and the name of the chocolates on the box in founder Chantal Coady’s handwriting.

The brand has an elegance, such incredible attention to detail, and insane research into its raw ingredients. Chantal wrote a recipe book and you can see the care and passion that she poured into each chocolate.

There were a multitude of changes last year when Prestat acquired Rococo.

It was an amazing opportunity and we’ve seen extraordinary growth, even in such a short amount of time. But with that comes challenges. Small yet scalable brands can be hard to manage as the chocolates are handmade, so it’s about making sure we always maintain our artisanal nature and ensuring the quality continues.

Traditionally, Rococo has been a B2C brand (we have three shops in London). Having that face-to-face interaction with customers is a whole different world. However, it’s incredibly valuable because you get live feedback, you understand what they want, what they like, and what they don’t like. This means, however, that we have less of a presence in the wholesale market, so we have tried to leverage the synergies that Prestat could provide, bringing Rococo to more wholesale clients including Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Liberty. We are also bringing all the production in-house.

We are celebrating our 40th anniversary this year. Our plan is to work with founder Chantal and bring back some of the beloved traditional recipes – we already launched around 50 new recipes in 2022. We will also be opening new shops in London. But, most importantly, we are going for organic certification, with a focus on creating and improving our sustainable practices. Both Prestat and Rococo have such strong personalities and heritage. We’re looking forward to continuing to bring the best chocolate around the world.’

‘ROCOCO HAS AN ELEGANCE, SUCH INCREDIBLE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND INCOMPARABLE RESEARCH INTO RAW INGREDIENTS’

Micaela Illy, CEO

TIMELINE

1983

Rococo is first established on the King’s Road, London, by founder Chantal Coady

2007

Rococo buys a small cocoa farm with the Grenada Chocolate Company to secure a supply of organic cocoa

2012

Rococo founder Chantal Coady publishes her book, Mastering the Art of Chocolate, with a selection of her recipes

2021

The Period Egg makes the news, supporting the campaign to end stigma around menstruation and period poverty

2022

Rococo is acquired

by Prestat – the London-based premium chocolatiers, also a great British brand

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Rococo Chocolates works with cocoa suppliers who are attentive to sustainability, transparent, and committed to dealing with issues in the industry.

2

The brand showcases the best of British creativity and craft, from its visual design to the creativity its chocolatiers put into every product.

3 4 5

Rococo believes in creating trends, not following them.

Someone had to try putting sea salt in chocolate.

The chocolatier’s ‘Fresh’ collection is handmade in small batches in its London chocolate kitchen.

Rococo has three chocolate emporiums in the heart of London, oozing British character and charm, from the King’s Road to Marylebone Village.

ROCOCO CHOCOLATES Unit 8, Powergate Business Park Volt Avenue, London NW10 6PW rococochocolates.com rococochocolates

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Rococo chocolates are known for their distinctive packaging and unique recipes

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GBB 2023 —— R

ROLLS-ROYCE The bespoke luxury marque’s cars will all be powered by electricity by 2030

‘S

ince we handed over the very first Phantom to be built at Goodwood, at one minute past midnight on 1 January 2003, every production Rolls-Royce has been powered by a V12 petrol engine. In autumn 2022 we unveiled Spectre, the first fully electric Rolls-Royce, signifying the start of a new era – by the end of 2030, every new Rolls-Royce we build will be electric powered.

Spectre represents a significant milestone on a demanding but exceptionally rewarding journey.

We took our first steps towards electrification more than a decade

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 ago with our 102EX Experimental Phantom, unveiling the 103EX five years later. While futuristic, these cars also revived a longstanding Rolls-Royce tradition. Until the 1950s, our engineers adopted the “EX” designation as a codename for their experimental cars, using them to test their latest technical innovations in conditions of great secrecy, often to extreme degrees.

None, however, was subjected to anything like the challenges devised for Spectre.

To ensure its technology and systems perform perfectly, Spectre is undergoing the most daunting testing regime in our history. By the time the first cars are delivered to customers late this year, the model will have covered 2.5 million kilometres in all climates and terrains, simulating more than 400 years of normal use.

The transition from internal combustion engine to electric propulsion begins as we mark the 20th anniversary of the Home of Rolls-Royce at Goodwood in January 2023. In that time, we’ve gone from making one car a day to annual sales of around six thousand, extended our product family from one model to six, grown our Goodwood team to 2,500, and transformed our brand to become a true luxury house. It is one of the great British success stories of the 21st century. It’s been an incredible journey – one we wouldn’t have missed for the world.

Spectre’s testing regime has included driving in temperatures of -40°C near the Arctic Circle in Sweden, and 55°C during the summer in southern Africa.

2

Spectre’s specially designed front grille helps make it the most aerodynamic RollsRoyce ever, with a drag coefficient of just 0.25cd.

3

The famous Spirit of Ecstasy mascot has been subtly redesigned specifically for Spectre, to make her more petite, athletic and aerodynamic.

4

Spectre’s unique Starlight internal door panels incorporate 4,796 LED ‘stars’, with a further 5,500 in the Illuminated fascia, which took over 10,000 hours to develop.

5

Spectre is the first production Rolls-Royce so named; but in the 1930s, engineers created a series of ten experimental cars, all codenamed Spectre, while developing Phantom III.

The Spectre is Rolls-Royce’s most technically challenging car yet

ROLLS-ROYCE MOTOR CARS LTD. The Drive, West Hampnett, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0SH +44 (0)1243 525700 rolls-roycemotorcars.com rollsroycecars

Torsten Müller-Ötvös, CEO

TIMELINE

1900

With remarkable prescience, The Hon Charles Stewart Rolls predicts that electric power will, one day, prove the perfect means of propulsion for a luxury motor car

2008

Rolls-Royce launches the fabled Phantom Coupé, Spectre’s spiritual predecessor. It will inspire Spectre’s design, which is also influenced by art, architecture, jewellery and racing yachts

2011

The 102EX Phantom is unveiled, fitted with a prototype electric drive, followed in 2016 by the completely autonomous 103EX – both provide invaluable experience for Spectre

2022

Spectre is presented and garners rapturous coverage and stellar reviews around the globe. It’s the most successful media launch in Rolls-Royce history

2023

The first production Spectres will be delivered to customers worldwide, less than five years after Rolls-Royce’s public promise to create an all-electric model within a decade

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GBB 2023 —— R

RSL

No challenge too small or daunting for this transformational garden design practice

‘N

o project is too daunting or too small for us. We can transform any space, from an historic estate to a muddy field or dingy backyard. Last year we did just that, transforming a big estate, Riverdance on the Thames.

Pre-pandemic I was on a plane every other month flying between all my international projects, but without travelling, and along with other projects, we’re going

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 to complete Riverdance in record time, an amazing achievement for such a formidable project.

Our client has lived in the property for 50 years and wanted to give the landscape a new lease of life for her and the family. The garden dated back to the Eighties, when people compartmentalised gardens to create “rooms”. But when you have an amazing view with lake and river, it seems crazy just to have a little window portal in your hedge, so we adopted a scorched earth policy to break down those areas of rigid formality.

One problem was ensuring privacy because people on boats coming upriver could see whomever was on the lawn. So, I replaced some hornbeam chimney-pot shapes with a natural screen made of four dovetailing eyelid-shaped beds, containing perennials, mature trees and beech-shaped beehives.

Today the property has a real wow factor, with gorgeous open vistas and the stream snaking through the landscape.

This year I’ll be travelling more again, as RSL will be working on a seaside villa being constructed near Barcelona and a hotel with private villas in Bodrum.

At home, we’re creating teams of gardeners for various projects, because maintenance is critical to what we do. My challenge for this year is finding enough passionate, capable gardeners to work with because I’m always thinking of how to help people keep their gardens looking at their most beautiful.’

Randle was influenced by his father, John Siddeley, an interior designer who worked on projects like the Harlequin Suite in The Dorchester Hotel.

2

The 18th-century landscape gardener, Humphry Repton, inspired Randle to write.

Repton’s books included before and after sketches.

3 4

Randle doesn’t have a garden himself, but gets enough of a horticultural fix from the time he devotes to his clients’ gardens.

RSL worked with luxury interior design company Finchatton to complete the gardens for the Four Seasons’ new serviced apartments in Grosvenor Square.

5

RSL created a series of gardens north-west of Quebec for a palatial Franco-Russian style house in dramatic mountainous scenery between two lakes.

RSL Trafalgar House, Juniper Drive London SW18 1GY +44 (0)20 7627 7260 randlesiddeley.co.uk randlesiddeley

Randle Siddeley’s visionary approach to garden design has transformed spaces all over the world for over 40 years

Randle Siddeley, founder

TIMELINE

1978

Randle Siddeley founds his design business, which is now one of the leading landscape architecture, construction and maintenance companies

2018

After 40 successful years, RSL creates diverse gardens for six individual villas in a new luxury development in Hong Kong

2020

Randle wins the Independent Publishers’ Gold Medal for his second book The Garden: Before & After, published

by Papadakis

2021

RSL achieves an honourable mention for the Discovery Bay project at the Landscape Architecture Awards

2022

RSL takes on a new project, Riverdance, a 27-acre estate on the banks of the River Thames. It will be completed this year

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CITIZENS

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

OF THE

The citizen movement needs to gather pace

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CITIZENSHIP —— GBB 2023

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

WORLD

For too long we’ve been fed the consumer story.

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GBB 2023 —— CITIZENSHIP

he Bristol Beacon is a testament to our changing times. There has been a building on the site since the Middle Ages: a monastery, a mansion, a sugar warehouse, a school, and from the late 19th century onwards, a concert hall and music venue. This latest incarnation has endured 150 years, reflecting the eternal human passion for music and performance, but the kind of performance has changed dramatically – from Sergei Rachmaninov to Pink Floyd.

Meanwhile it has been rebuilt several times, most recently in 2009, and in 2020, it underwent another kind of change: previously known as Colston Hall, this was the most prominent of the many Bristol landmarks named after the slave trader Edward Colston to change its name in the aftermath of the Black Lives Matter protests, and the toppling of Colston’s statue into Bristol harbour.

Now there’s another change taking place, one that just might be the most significant of all. When the Bristol Beacon fully reopens after another refurbishment this year, it will no longer just be a music venue, but now also a power plant. Three hundred and fortyeight solar panels will adorn the roof, generating 116,000 kilowatt hours of electricity every year. What is most important, though, is the fact that this array is owned by the pioneering Bristol Energy Cooperative, which last summer raised over £1.3m from its members – the everyday people of Bristol, with individual investments starting from as little as £100 – to fund the Beacon installation and a number of others.

With this latest change, the Bristol Beacon is taking on the full mantle of its name in this moment in time.

Freshly adorned with its panels, it represents a powerful point of light in the dark landscape of the energy crisis, one that shows a way forward in this context and more broadly. Bristol is lighting the way to a Britain powered by renewable energy, from sources that are owned by local communities, and therefore not just reducing bills but actually generating revenue.

The vital truth illuminated by the Beacon is that all of the multiple crises of our time can be solved; what that requires is that we all recognise and step into our agency not just as consumers, but as producers, investors, owners, and above all, citizens.

This is a very different proposition to the lullaby of ‘sustainable consumption’, the idea that our primary contribution to making the world better is to buy better stuff, to ‘vote with our wallets’. I say this as one who used to be an advocate, indeed a practitioner. I spent the first decade of my career working in advertising, working as much as I could on ‘good’ brands: promoting Eurostar over flying, fairtrade chocolate, a brand of toilet roll that promised to plant three trees for every one cut down, and so on. But I gradually came to acknowledge that even within the walls of the agency I was working at, for every pound spent promoting

the ethical or environmental alternative, another five, ten or even 20 were at the same time pushing the opposite. And then I worked on a project that really broke my heart.

The client was Unilever, the food and healthcare multinational which was then and remains to this day a paragon business of sustainable consumption. Having played a major part in convening the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), work that was crucial to reducing rainforest clearance across the world, Unilever’s marketing team came to the agency I was working at with a brief to promote sustainable palm oil, and invite its customers to be part of the solution.

I knew the background: Unilever’s part in RSPO had been initiated in response to direct action from Greenpeace, which saw activists in orangutan costumes scale several of the company’s buildings and drape banners which read ‘Stop destroying rainforests for palm oil’. I proposed that the ads should celebrate this dynamic.

The concepts featured images of those protests, with the line, in the voice of Unilever: ‘This was our wake up call. This is yours.’ They acknowledged the role of activism and its potentially powerful positive relationship with business, encouraging consumers to recognise this at the same time as encouraging them to seek out the ethical alternative.

In testing, the ads were hugely impactful. People wanted to know more – about palm oil, but also about Unilever and indeed Greenpeace.

The ads made them think differently about all three: making palm oil a major issue, repositioning Unilever as a committed ethical business, and framing Greenpeace and activists in general to be embraced as courageous rather than feared as dangerous. They went up through the chain of command at Unilever for approval.

They never came back. The budget was cut, and a replacement dictated to us: beautiful rainforest imagery, with the line: ‘What you buy in the supermarket can change the world.’ The message was reduced from a powerful endorsement of the role and power of activism, to a lullaby of consumption. Instead of taking the opportunity to celebrate and invoke agency, Unilever had chosen instead to say ‘Hush little people. Just go shopping. We’ll fix it.’

I’m not saying buying better isn’t, well, better than nothing. Purposedriven firms are radically rethinking sourcing practices, product design, value chains, even ownership structures, and that’s to be celebrated. Last year has seen several major advances. Selfridges has announced a target of 45 percent of transactions to be based on resale, repair, rental or refills by 2030; Patagonia, which was already leading in so many ways in reducing the negative impact of their supply chain, is now owned by a charitable trust, with its profits redistributed to environmental causes. Both represent good news. It’s good to buy from these businesses rather than others, just as it’s good to fly less, eat less meat, avoid single use plastics, and so on.

But it is not enough. Ultimately, all these shifts contribute at best to reducing our negative impact as individuals, because that’s all we’re assumed to be capable of. What the Bristol Beacon illuminates is the fact

ALL OF THE MULTIPLE CRISES OF OUR TIME CAN BE SOLVED; WHAT THAT REQUIRES IS THAT WE ALL RECOGNISE AND STEP INTO OUR AGENCY NOT JUST AS CONSUMERS, BUT AS PRODUCERS, INVESTORS, OWNERS, AND ABOVE ALL, CITIZENS

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BuyMeOnce is a business that encourages the one purchase that will last over the many that won’t; The Bristol Cable (below) , an award-winning news outlet, is owned and run by local people

that that is not the case. We are not just consumers, individual buying machines for whom the best case scenario is to cause minimal damage.

We are citizens: creative, collaborative creatures who are at our best when we’re involved, and working together to maximise our positive impact.

We are not just consumers who occasionally vote; we are citizens who sometimes consume.

Organisations like the Bristol Energy Cooperative are deeply rooted in this truth. Such organisations see people not just as consumers, through the lens of transactions, but as citizens, sources of ideas, energy, and investment. Once you start to look for them, they’re everywhere, in every town and city, and covering every aspect of society.

BEC is one of over 300 community energy groups in England alone.

Stepping out of energy but staying in Bristol, We Can Make is another pioneering organisation based in the south of the city, tapping into the knowledge of local people to identify small scale plots suitable for new housing, crowdfunding to buy the land and put it into a community land trust, then building and letting the resulting property out at affordable rents. And then there’s The Bristol Cable, an award-winning news outlet owned and funded by thousands of local people, widely lauded as a new model for local news.

Up in Grimsby, an organisation called East Marsh United, which started activities with informal litter picks just a few years ago, recently successfully closed a £500,000 ‘community share’ offer. That money will be enough to buy ten houses, refurbish them through local jobs at a decent wage, and let them out, providing a sustainable revenue stream for the organisation as well as a return for investors. The football club, Grimsby Town, and the brewery, Docks Beers, are two of a host of local businesses under new ownership and committing their resources and spaces to rebuilding local pride and resilience. In Coalville in Leicestershire, ambitions are if anything even higher; an organisation called Coalville CAN is leading on plans to take up the lease on a disused leisure centre and turn it into, among other things, a National Parkour Centre.

The best businesses are stepping into this understanding.

The online retailer BuyMeOnce, which exists to break the cycle of designed obsolescence, has a theory of change rooted in getting people to ‘buy once’ from them, something that they love and that lasts, instead of buying ten times from a standard retailer. Research into products and producers is a vital part of the BuyMeOnce offer, and increasingly the company is tapping into its customers to help them do it, asking them what products they want on the site, what things have let them down, what could be made better, and what things they love. This is the first step in a strategy that is positioning BuyMeOnce less as a conventional retailer people buy from and more as a community people buy into and contribute to.

Yuup is a new business which has gone one step further. It operates like an Airbnb for local experiences, enabling florists to offer flower arranging, cafes to offer baking lessons, and so on, and in doing so supports local economies. Already established in three UK cities and on a swift growth trajectory, Yuup is primarily funded through equity crowdfunding – it is owned by its customers. And then there’s Peepl, a new competitor to Uber Eats and Deliveroo which is owned by a combination of its customers and the local restaurants whose food it delivers, and so designed to sustain the local economies in the cities where it operates. It is rapidly expanding from its founding base in Liverpool.

How do you get started as a citizen? The first step is simply to look around you, in the places where you live and work, online and in real life.

Find the others, and get involved. This reality is everywhere, just waiting for you to join in with it. So go find your power. I think you’ll enjoy it. n COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 269

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GBB 2023

THE SLOANE CLUB 290 STEPHEN WEBSTER 292 ST GEORGE 294 ST JAMES INTERIORS 296 STRATHBERRY 298 SUNSPEL 300

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SAMUEL HEATH Exquisitely crafted brassware brand taking positive action

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PHOTOS: MARY FLANIGAN INTERIORS

‘O

ur business was founded in 1820 and we’ve been on the same site on Leopold Street in the centre of Birmingham since 1850.

The city has been home to the UK’s metalwork industries since the 16th century, and when Samuel Heath started his company it was one of hundreds of brass foundries.

Today, we’re part of only a surviving few, but we’ve got a great heritage to build on.

Our factory has generations

DID YOU KNOW?

1 of workers with skills that are quite unique nowadays.

All our production processes take place at our Birmingham headquarters, which means we have total control over our manufacturing, quality and environmental responsibility.

Our ability to pioneer new movements in brassware is made possible by our unique ability to combine technology, tradition and time-honoured British craftsmanship.

The challenges of last year prompted us to further develop our energy-saving efficiencies; we have a big site with lots of roof space for solar panels. We’re also launching a new range called “Forme” that builds on the sustainability message. Most of our collections are very detailed, and a lot of work goes into them.

However, our “Forme” collection pares back some of that work, but still leaves a beautiful, minimal and less energy-intensive product.

I have witnessed the evolution of the brass interiors industry within my time here. Although times may have been challenging for the industry this year, we are working towards innovations that add to our strengths without compromising our values.

I’m excited for what the future holds for Samuel Heath, and we’re working with local universities and colleges here in Birmingham to train apprentices and ensure brassmaking skills are continued in the next generation.’

Samuel Heath designed and manufactured an exclusive brass mantel clock for The Great Exhibition in Crystal Palace, London, in 1851.

2 3 4

Samuel Heath continues to use a 24-carat gold solution to produce its antique gold electroplated finish.

Samuel Heath collections have starred in films such as James Bond: Quantum of Solace (2008) and Skyfall (2012).

There are 28 individual manufacturing stages for a single Samuel Heath brassware product. One tap includes around 52 component parts, the majority of which are crafted from solid brass and hand-assembled.

5

Samuel Heath uses only the purest Northern European brass and every scrap of waste material is returned to the foundry for recycling.

SAMUEL HEATH 100 Leopold Street Birmingham B12 0UJ +44 (0)121 766 4200 samuel-heath.com samuelheathofficial

Samuel Heath’s luxurious brassware is all crafted in Birmingham using traditional techniques

PHOTOS: MARY FLANIGAN INTERIORS

Martyn Whieldon, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1820

The brand is established

by Alfred William Heath, the son of designer and maker Samuel Heath

1890

Samuel Heath becomes a limited company with a share capital of £100,000

1981

Fifth Avenue, New York City, is the location of Samuel Heath’s first overseas showroom

2017

The brand creates the brassware for the residences of Chelsea Barracks, a luxury development in London

2022

Samuel Heath’s site frontage is Grade II-listed for its representation of Jacobean architecture in Birmingham

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GBB 2023 —— S

SANDERSON DESIGN GROUP Creating beautifully crafted designs that celebrate William Morris’s legacy

‘I

n Morris & Co, you can explore British design history through a unique lens. Whether that’s via the working archive, skilled craft stories from our UK factories, or the backstory of William Morris (1834-1896) himself.

For our latest collection, we dived into one of William Morris’s most creative partnerships, exploring a friendship through craftship and the Arts & Crafts legacy of a truly historic house.

Collaborator, comrade, friend and neighbour, Sir Emery Walker was all these things and more to William Morris. The collection centres on Walker’s abode, 7 Hammersmith Terrace*, where a rich variety of original Morris & Co furnishings still ornament rooms today.

The collection rediscovers designs long out of production and incredible handmade artefacts exchanged as gifts between the two families.

My favourite is a gorgeous piece called Flowers

By May. It’s an embroidery by the hugely skilled May Morris (William Morris’s daughter) for Emery Walker, inscribed “MM to EW”, and never before translated into a formal Morris & Co design.

Our challenge for next year is to continue aspiring to create new and compelling decoration stories for the home. A huge part of this is to ensure

we maintain the high level of craftship established by William Morris. That’s why we ensured every wallpaper was made by our craftspeople at our own UK factory. Additionally, we wanted hand-finished touches and the highest standard of woven and printed qualities to emphasise the intimate nature of many fabric designs within the collection.

Naturally, we don’t have a crystal ball to read the future. But, as an interiors brand, you sit up and recognise that many of the shifts from the last few years – lockdowns, remote working – have coalesced around the home. From this difficult time, people have fallen back in love with design, pattern, and creating lovingly crafted homes.’

Lisa Montague, CEO * Open to the public from March to December on Thursdays and Saturdays, with guided tours for a small numbers of visitors. Booking essential via emerywalker.org.uk

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Dorothy’s Kilim, only the second ever kilim made by Morris & Co, is inspired by the far-flung travels of the daughter of Emery Walker, Dorothy.

Dorothy’s Kilim Barbed Berry and Emery’s Willow Citrus Stone fabrics

May’s Coverlet was made by May Morris for Emery’s wife, Mary, during the last bedridden years of her life. It perfectly exemplifies May’s astonishing needlework abilities.

3

With four brand-new designs and six re-discovered William Morris patterns, the Emery Walker collection features the highest number of new designs of any Morris & Co collection this century.

4

Many of the designs in the Emery Walker’s House collection integrate either the original Morris & Co designs in 7 Hammersmith Terrace or creatively respond to areas in the house.

5

Paying homage to the Kelmscott Press, one of William Morris’s final feats, The Beauty of Life features bucolic scenes foregrounding the iconic typeface.

‘OUR CHALLENGE FOR NEXT YEAR IS TO CONTINUE ASPIRING TO CREATE NEW AND COMPELLING DECORATION STORIES FOR THE HOME’

SANDERSON DESIGN GROUP 1st Floor, South Dome Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour London SW10 0XE +44 (0)20 3903 3700 morrisandco.sanderson designgroup.com wmorrisandco

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Woad Blue Wallpaper with Trent Woad Blue and Bird Tapestry Webb’s Blue Fabrics from Emery Walker’s House Collection

TIMELINE

1860

Arthur Sanderson & Sons is established in Islington, London, importing French wallpapers

1861

Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co is established by William Morris alongside other painters, artists and poets of the time

1923

Sanderson is awarded a Royal Warrant as purveyors of paint, fabric and wall coverings to royal residences

1940

Sanderson acquires Morris & Co, including the brand’s original wallpaper printing blocks and archive

2020

Sanderson Design Group is established, now home to two UK manufacturing units and seven luxury design brands

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GBB 2023 —— S

SAVILE ROW

A fashion icon of our age

T

owards the end of 2022, Campbell Carey, Huntsman’s Chief Cutter and Creative Director, was quoted in The New York Times saying that anyone who tells you the suit is dead is talking rubbish. His confident statement is fulsomely backed by reports of record sales enjoyed by Huntsman, Cad & The Dandy and The Deck.

Since Henry Poole & Co established itself on Savile Row in 1846, the small street has earned a mighty – and still immensely popular – international reputation for offering the finest craftsmanship from the best bespoke tailors in the world.

Despite its long history, Savile Row constantly adapts to change and remains relevant, there is simply no other street like it anywhere in the world. Many of its historic buildings still only permit tailors to take up residence if they are continuing the tradition of hand-tailoring garments on the premises. This is partly what gives the Row its unassailable authenticity.

Visitors immediately sense that behind all those discreet, historic façades, there is the continual buzz of artisans and craftsmen at work.

The street is lively and busy, not least the coffee shop, The Service, which is a hub for the tailors and as such one of the most stylish places to enjoy your espresso. This year ‘Pop-Up at the Cop Shop’, the Crisis at Christmas Pop Up, returned to Savile Row. The Christmas charity fundraiser hosted a calendar of events alongside selling brand new donated womenswear, menswear, accessories and gifts with all proceeds going to Crisis, the national charity for people experiencing homelessness in Britain.

Savile Row is known for its sustainabilty and craftsmanship

TIMELINE

1674

The first house is built on Savile Row in the heart of Mayfair, at what is now the site of No 1 Savile Row

1846

Henry Poole moves to Savile Row and is the first tailor on the street.

It would later go on to invent the dinner suit

1969

The Beatles stage an impromptu concert, their last public performance, from the rooftop of No 3 Savile Row

2010

Savile Row welcomes sheep onto the street in celebration of Wool Week, a key fabric used by tailors along the street

2022

Savile Row hosts its inaugural Concours, hosting over two days of spectacular cars on the prestigious street

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Savile Row bespoke tailoring is inherently sustainable, with the bespoke model offering little to no waste, while the cloth that Savile Row favours is almost invariably pure wool and tweed, renowned for being environmentally friendly.

Robert Charnock, owner and Chairman of Dugdales, says, ‘Our wool either comes from responsible farms in the UK or Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand. Our cloth lasts forever. Add that to Savile Row handiwork and you create a masterpiece for life, a family heirloom.’ On top of that, every Savile Row suit is made with such experience, craftsmanship and care, that it is usually passed to the next generation.

Though all tailors are united in their commitment to excellence, they remain colourfully distinct with very varied histories. Dege & Skinner has an unsurpassed reputation for uniforms. Huntsman, of course, has been immortalised by the Kingsman films, and is sought out for its morning suits and tweeds. Cad & The Dandy started in the City and remains popular for a sharper, younger look.

It now has a ready-to-wear collection in its new store at 7-8 Savile Row, in collaboration with Arthur Sleep, the first-ever British shoemaker to make shoes on Savile Row and London’s first shoe-making factory in over a century. Hackett took over the Hardy Amies store to launch its bespoke line, JP Hackett, and also has a readyto-wear collection exclusive to Savile Row. Anderson & Sheppard is sought out for more flamboyant party wear, like the pink velvet suit that Daniel Craig wore on the red carpet – and Fran Lebowitz, the outspoken American author, is recognisable for her suits that she has made there. King Charles III has also had his suits made there for decades. Chittleborough & Morgan’s signature is its stitching and the embroidery it puts inside clothes, from Welsh dragons to the Suffragette colours. Norton & Sons takes an idiosyncratic minimal approach, more COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 277

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S —— GBB 2023

akin to a Bond Street atelier, only ever displaying one immaculately dressed mannequin in its window, while inside there is just a blue sofa and walls hung with very good art. Richard Anderson makes jackets with plentiful, clever pockets for the intrepid traveller.

Following the inaugural Concours on Savile Row in the early summer, the eagerly anticipated second edition will be taking place in May 2023. The event will once again see tailors partner with a car marque, for example Henry Poole with Range Rover, Hackett with Aston Martin, Huntsman with Bentley and Norton & Sons with Lotus.

New to the row is clothsurgeon, the first bespoke street brand to settle there. The Deck, launched by Daisy Knatchbull as the first shop front on Savile Row catering exclusively to women, is about to expand to having one of the biggest shopfronts on the street, with six windows at Number 32. In 2022, Huntsman launched a collection in honour of its renowned female clients catering to the modern day woman, called ‘Huntswoman of Tomorrow’. Finally, the revered Edward Sexton, renowned for his signature sharp lapels and strong shoulders, returned to the row from Knighstbridge. Savile Row might look elegantly restrained and traditional, but it is bursting with innovation and variety to suit all ages and genders.

The concentration of extraordinary talent and ideas in one tiny area of London gives the Row its energy and reputation that are guaranteed to survive for further generations, along with its superbly crafted handmade clothes. Savile Row remains a testament to the fact that quality and fine craftsmanship will always be in demand. It’s official – the suit is alive and thriving.

Savile Row has been a centre for craftship since Henry Poole & Co established itself there in 1846

‘IT’S OFFICIAL – THE SUIT IS ALIVE AND THRIVING’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The historic street, known as ‘The Golden Mile of Tailoring’, is named after Lady Dorothy Savile, the wife of the Earl of Burlington.

In 1865 ‘Bertie’, Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) wanted a coat he could wear to informal dinners at Sandringham. Henry Poole shortened the traditional tailcoat and presented the evening dinner jacket, which was soon popularised in America as the tuxedo.

3 4 5

From firearms and diamonds to magic tricks, Savile Row tailors have perfected the art of creating secret pockets.

Huntsman made trousers for Hollywood star Katharine Hepburn at a time when it was illegal for women to wear them.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association is dedicated to protecting and promoting the practices and traditions of bespoke tailoring.

SAVILE ROW Savile Row, London W1 onsavilerow.com

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GBB 2023 —— S

SCOTT DUNN Guest-centric, bespoke, seamless holidays for contemporary travellers

‘J

anuary 2023 marks five years of being in the travel industry and I’ve seen it survive extraordinary turbulence, from terrorist attacks to the pandemic. That’s because people will always love to travel and they’ve flocked back to us, resulting in 2022 being the most successful year in our history.

When people weren’t travelling recently, our operational muscles weren’t being flexed, and we certainly felt the pain when we started re-exercising them in 2022.

But we’re arriving in 2023 fitter and stronger than ever, having strengthened our digital offering and added some new members to

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Every trip is completely bespoke and starts with our guests. We listen to their travel goals, to form a picture of what is most important to them.

2

We provide a seamless travel experience, from the first stages of planning until long after our guests return home. We offer flexibility, and full protection for our trips.

our very capable team to provide that great service that our guests depend on us for.

Though there weren’t many destinations left to add, in 2022 we added Egypt, Israel and Malta to our holidays and started going deeper and really getting under the skin of countries like Japan, France and also South Africa in response to demand for more wildlife experiences. The cost-of-living crisis is very real so we’re really focusing on how we add value. We’re also broadening our idea of what a family holiday means, as nowadays “family” could mean anything from a nuclear family to a group of girlfriends. So, we’re looking at small portfolios of hosted trips for groups who don’t want to be stung by single occupancy supplements.

We know that a holiday represents people’s precious time and money, so although we’re underpinned by our knowledge, great destinations and effective technology, we are above all guest-centric. With all the recent travel chaos, our guests trust us to support them through their journey whatever happens. We start planning every journey by finding out all about you so we can tailor your trip exactly to who you are. Our brand heritage has always been and always will be to take our guests as the absolute starting point.’

3

We offer trips to over 100 countries across all seven continents, and are committed to making sure we know them all intimately.

4

We contribute to the Mary’s Meals and Tree Sisters charities, improving the lives of many people in remote, poverty-stricken locations and helping reforestation.

5

We participate in the UN Global Compact, the world’s largest corporate sustainability initiative, committing us to operate responsibly and supporting the society around us.

Whether the destination is Machu Picchu or South Africa, Scott Dunn starts every trip by really getting to know its guests

SCOTT DUNN Mindspace Hammersmith 1 Butterwick, London W6 8DL +44 (0)20 3130 6908 scottdunn.com scottdunn_travel

Sonia Davies, CEO

TIMELINE

1986

Founder Andrew Dunn launches Scott Dunn travel company with a luxury ski chalet concept

1995

The first tailor-made holidays to Africa were introduced, followed by Latin America

2000

Scott Dunn Explorers kids clubs launched, providing the best in childcare and activities

2016

USA and Singapore offices opened, making Scott Dunn a truly global company

2023

Scott Dunn goes from strength to strength and is recognised in several prestigious travel awards

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GBB 2023 —— S

THE SHARD A soaring contemporary monument and a proud beacon for London

‘L

ike everyone, we’ve been adjusting to the postpandemic world, and seen shifts in how people work at and visit The Shard. As we welcomed back office occupiers, we looked at innovative ways to improve our physical-virtual workplace. We hosted a Wellness Week for all our occupiers and employees. It included events like aromatherapy, yoga, nutrition discovery classes, and body composition training.

Developing experiences and spaces that support wellbeing helps demonstrate to brands the value in locating their businesses in this unique building, benefiting from not only its prestige but also through the productivity and engagement of their workforce.

Last year we hosted an array of memorable events. As well as playing a part in the official BBC New Year’s broadcast in 2021, the theme of our festive lights display at Christmas was togetherness, designed to celebrate families across the country being able to spend the festive season together again.

In June 2022, The Shard celebrated the Platinum Jubilee with a light display and special experiences. Our restaurants, bars and attractions developed exclusive dishes and decked themselves out, bringing the milestone to life. To mark the switch on of The Shard’s Jubilee Beacon, the Merthyr Tydfil choir sang a rendition of A Life Lived with Grace, the song written especially for the Commonwealth to be used on such an occasion.

TIMELINE

2000

Famed architect Renzo Piano starts designing The Shard under contract by property developer Irvine Sellar

2009

The Shard’s construction begins in March.

Building work finished in July 2012, just over three years later

2013

Queen Elizabeth II visits The Shard on the 21 November, travelling up to levels 69 and 72 of the building

2020

On 31 December The Shard hosts the countdown for London’s televised New Year celebrations

2021

On 29 September, it unveils the first public sculpture in London by renowned Spanish artist Jaume Plensa

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‘IN 2023 WE WILL CONTINUE TO WORK HARD TO MAKE OUR DESTINATION THE BEST IN LONDON FOR EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES’ We have continued to support important campaigns with the spire lights, turning them pink to mark the start of Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October. The Shangri-La hotel amplified support with its popular Pink Afternoon Tea, giving a percentage of proceeds to Guy’s Cancer Charity.

In 2023 we will continue to work hard to make our destination the best in London for exceptional service and unforgettable experiences. It’s important that The Shard – the iconic vertical city in the heart of our global capital – continues to offer something unique for visitors from around the world.’

Derek Rossenrode, General Manager

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

The Shangri-La infinity sky pool on level 52 of The Shard is the highest hotel pool in Western Europe, with unparalleled views of London.

The Shard is home to seven bars and restaurants, as well as the viewing gallery where you can enjoy refreshments at the very top, open-air Skydeck on level 72.

3

The Shard is also home to HCA Healthcare UK, part of London Bridge Hospital, which has a diagnostic and outpatient centre on the 4th, 5th and 6th floors.

4 5

There are seven different languages represented in Jaume Plensa’s WE sculpture on The Shard piazza.

Shard Lights are made up of 575 LED lights and fixtures across the top 20-storeys of The Shard (800ft to 1,016ft).

THE SHARD 32 London Bridge St London SE1 9SG the-shard.com theshardlondon

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GBB 2023 —— TOURISM

theLIST

Eight British Travel Companies with a Conscience We all want to travel, but let’s consider how we do it better and who we book with, says JULIET KINSMAN

1

JORO

3 2

BYWAY

Founded in 2020 by sustainability enthusiast Cat Jones – and inspired by her own family adventures – Byway helps travellers slow down and explore Europe’s hidden-gem experiences on multi-stop trips. Including travel by train, boat, bus and bike (no flying), personalised support is available from planning through to during the trip itself. byway.travel

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Founded in 2001, this activist company intertwines nature conservation with support for local communities – aiming, above all, to be a force for good.

Responsible Travel commissions studies and publishes evidence of the positive impact of each of their trips on their site, and every trip also funds a day out for a child. responsibletravel.com

4

SAWDAY'S

Sawday’s, a collection of characterful hotels, B&Bs, and self-catering destinations across the UK and Europe, has been championing small businesses for 25 years. Founder Alistair Sawday once stood as a Green Party candidate and was vice-chair of the Soil Association. The company's B Corp status is testament to its environmental pledges. sawdays.co.uk

PHOTOS: © FJORD NORWAY; © UNSPLASH; © NINO SALKIC REWILDING EUROPE

The UK’s only B Corp-certified luxury adventure travel company will measure the carbon footprint of your trip, providing advice on how to lower it while you’re out there, too.

Mostly, though, the small team at Joro specialises in meaningful adventures, from family escapes to selfdiscovery missions, Greek islands to Alaskan wilds. joroexperiences.com

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6

STEPPES TRAVEL

Recently B Corp certified, the Steppes Travel team consists of former rangers, guides and camp managers who have a shared belief in environmental and social responsibility. The team specialises in – and supports through The Steppes Fund For Change – a plethora of destinations, initiatives and adventures across the globe. steppestravel.com

5

WILD FRONTIERS

With experiences across every continent (including Antarctica), Wild Frontiers offers small group tours and tailor-made itineraries, fuelled by the belief that, though travel is a privilege, it can be a force for good. Michael Palin, Tom Hollander and Kate Humble are just a few of Wild Frontiers’ happy customers. wildfrontierstravel.com

7

PURA AVENTURA

Inspired by the kindness of hospitality, the chance encounter of its three founders, and a ‘travel positive’ ethos, Pura Aventura is certified B Corp with ambitious conservation goals. Specialising in Patagonia and Latin America, Diego, Xabi and Tom work to share unique, undiscovered adventures. pura-aventura.com

8

EXODUS TRAVELS

PHOTOS: © FJORD NORWAY; © UNSPLASH; © NINO SALKIC REWILDING EUROPE

Travel should enrich your life, but it should enrich the places you visit, too – so says Exodus, with its smallgroup, minimal-impact adventures and ‘People, Place & Planet’ plan. With more than 500 itineraries spread across over 90 countries, Exodus has been specialising in activity holidays for almost 50 years. exodus.co.uk

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GBB 2023 —— S

SIMS HILDITCH

Creating intelligently designed timeless spaces in both town and country

‘F

or more than a decade, Sims Hilditch has been synonymous with timeless English style, inspired by the British countryside and imagined with a fresh eye. Working with global clients, we take a holistic approach to every project, encouraged by the story of both the building and its surroundings. From the renovation of a 500-year-old country estate in the North of England to the refurbishment of townhouses in London, our designs have comfort and longevity at their heart.

In 2022 we launched our first book, The Evolution of Home: English Interiors for a New Era. It is a showcase of our projects taking the reader on a journey through different areas of the home. Each chapter embodies a modern take on English style in a way that aims to delight and inspire.

Despite external challenges faced by many interiors businesses over the past year, we’ve been fortunate to work on longerterm projects. We are currently working on a number of exciting projects including a Scottish estate, which has been designed

by ADAM Architecture, a Grade I regency home in Richmond, London and several projects overseas. We completed a full refurbishment of a historic Cotswold manor house for international clients in a recordbreaking 11 months, a newly built home in Hertfordshire using reclaimed bricks from an old mill – and a cosy country home near Cheltenham with an adjoining party barn for a returning client.

During the past year, we have continued to develop our partnership with George Smith furniture, with whom we designed a furniture collection inspired by a George Smith sofa that was passed down to me by my parents.

We also partnered with local Marlborough Tiles to launch a capsule collection, and have created a beautiful rug in collaboration with Tim Page Carpets.’

Known for its elegant and impactful country houses, Sims Hilditch also creates welcoming city homes

Emma Sims-Hilditch, founder

TIMELINE

2009

Brand founded by Emma Sims-Hilditch, previously in film production

2014

Sims Hilditch moves to its Cotswolds studio in Cold Ashton

2018

Purchase of the London office, a townhouse in Parsons Green

2020

Sims Hilditch welcomes Design Director Louise Wicksteed

2022

The brand grows to a team of 35 dedicated staff

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‘WORKING WITH CLIENTS ACROSS THE GLOBE, WE TAKE A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO EVERY PROJECT, ENCOURAGED BY THE STORY OF BOTH THE BUILDING AND ITS SURROUNDINGS’

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Founder Emma Sims-Hilditch began her career working in film for Ridley Scott.

At Sims Hilditch, we subscribe to the ‘design once and design well’ philosophy.

Sustainable practices are at the heart of the business – as part of the workplace and wellbeing. Sims Hilditch most recently introduced four beehives to the Cotswold studio.

4

The brand has a resident gardener who kindly plants vegetables in the kitchen garden for the team to enjoy for lunch.

5

Sims Hilditch’s Grade II-listed studio is a 17th-century former coaching inn.

SIMS HILDITCH The White Hart The Folly, Cold Ashton Gloucestershire SN14 8JR +44 (0)1249 783087 simshilditch.com simshilditch

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GBB 2023 —— S

SKYDIAMOND

Diamonds helping the planet be forever

‘I

am pleased to have created the first sustainable diamonds, made from the sky. I was thinking about how to remove CO2 from the atmosphere on a planetary scale and store it in the most permanent way, and suddenly realised that a diamond is the ultimate form of carbon. It was a lightbulb moment but the idea was the easy bit – five hard years of research and development followed.

It’s a complicated high-temperature process, powered solely by solar and wind energy, but to cut a long story short, the air we put back into the atmosphere is cleaner than the air we take out. Skydiamonds are far kinder to the planet even than lab-grown diamonds, which are mass-produced, often using brown energy and gases that are byproducts of the fossil fuel industry.

We are the only diamond producer on the planet to be carbon negative through our production process and not offsetting.

Diamond mining is notorious for its negative environmental, social and ethical impact. So, diamonds are the perfect frontier for the new environmental movement. We’ve harnessed a combination of technology and imagination to come up with the ultimate piece of climate bling. Turning something base into something precious is perfect 21st century alchemy. Above all it’s fun, which is central to our ethos.

Skydiamonds are optically, physically and chemically identical to mined diamonds and we were thrilled to launch our first jewellery collection in October last year. We also worked with jeweller Stephen Webster to launch the world’s first Skydiamond collaboration in time for Christmas 2022.

We’re not asking people to give anything up or to stop buying beautiful things, but to buy better. The beauty of Skydiamond is that it gives you an exquisite gem entirely free from conflict, pollution and guilt. What’s not to love?’

A Skydiamond x Stephen Webster ring

‘DIAMONDS ARE THE PERFECT FRONTIER FOR THE NEW ENVIRONMENTAL MOVEMENT’

Dale Vince, founder

TIMELINE

2012

Dale Vince comes up with the idea for Skydiamond while thinking about geoengineering and how to lock up carbon forever

2017

The recipe for how to make brilliant diamonds is processed and perfected

2018

The first Skydiamond in the world is made from a combination of wind, sun, rain and carbon dioxide

2021

Skydiamond starts selling its stones – the following year in October it starts selling jewellery

2022

In December the first jewellery collaboration launches with British jeweller to the stars, Stephen Webster

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Skydiamond’s founder, Dale Vince, is an eco-warrior and accidental businessman who ‘dropped back in’ from life as a traveller in the 90s to found Ecotricity, the world’s first green energy company.

2 3

Dale runs the world’s first carbon neutral and vegan football club, Forest Green Rovers.

Dale is a United Nations Climate Champion and received an OBE from the late Queen for services to the environment.

4

It takes approximately 14 days to grow a Skydiamond in a mill and every part of the process happens on site at its Sky Mining facility in the Cotswolds.

5

A ‘Life Cycle Analysis’ report was completed by Imperial College London consultants giving Skydiamond a negative carbon footprint of -6kgs CO2e per one carat.

SKYDIAMOND The Sky Mining Co. Lion House, 2 Rowcroft Stroud GL5 3BY skydiamond.com skyminediamond

Skydiamond’s jewellery is the ultimate ethical carbon sink

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GBB 2023 —— S

THE SLOANE CLUB & SLOANE PLACE

A century-old members’ club and new boutique hotel in Chelsea

‘A

s a members’ club and a hotel business, one of our greatest challenges is how we stay relevant within an evolving marketplace.

We’re proud custodians of The Sloane Club and want it to be as relevant for the next 100 years as it has been for the last century.

We need to remain pertinent for our members while also attracting a new demographic whose lifestyle requires a space that isn’t their home or an office for them to fulfil the various components of their lives. Lifestyles have changed: we’ve gone very quickly from having quite structured lives to blending work

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

In January 1923, The Times announced details of the new club, claiming to be the ‘least expensive of London’s clubs for women’ where ladies could enjoy a one shilling lunch (approx. £2 in today’s money).

2 and leisure. And we are clearer than ever that our role is to provide a space, service and community that empowers those convergent lifestyles. Recently, for example, we’ve removed a traditional dining room not often used in order to introduce a dedicated 24/7 workspace into The Club for the first time and we’re looking at enhancing our wellness offering.

We made a clear decision that we’re going to have two credible brands side by side, fulfilling two different audiences: The Sloane Club and Sloane Place and we want to deliver amazing experiences covering sleeping, relaxing, dining, work and play.

Our biggest achievement has been to create a fantastic new team that has managed to elevate the guest experience across both businesses. You can pay to refurbish an interior, which we have, but what takes the time and stress is recruiting and training staff to go that extra mile so members have personalised service and feel truly welcome. We are experiencing the toughest recruitment market of all time yet I genuinely think that the experience we’re delivering at The Club for our teams, members and guests is better than it was three years ago, and this is reflected on the guest scores and feedback.’

In March 1923, the club received an official seal of approval from Queen Mary when she visited the club and became a member.

3 4

Many members played active roles during the Second World War and used The Club as their base.

Over its hundred-year history, The Sloane Club, has had a plethora of starry members including suffragette Dame Vera Laughton-Matthews and Edith Marie Thompson, an early women’s sport activist.

5

The Sloane Club had one of the most photographed floral installations of 2022’s Chelsea Flower Show.

THE SLOANE CLUB 52 Lower Sloane Street London SW1W 8BP sloaneclub.co.uk sloaneplace.com thesloaneclub sloane.place

Originally a club for service women, The Sloane Club now welcomes everyone, and has branched out into a boutique hotel

Nic Wenn, Managing Director

TIMELINE

1922

Set up by Princess Helena, Queen Victoria’s daughter, The Sloane Club begins life as the Service Women’s Club to provide a home-from-home

1972

The Service Women’s Club is renamed after its former patron as The Helena Club, and is a prime spot during Chelsea’s swinging 1960s and 1970s

1976

The Helena Club becomes The Sloane Club and gentleman are granted entry for the first time in its history

2019

Under new ownership, The Sloane Club opens Sloane Place, a contemporary boutique hotel and restaurant, considered a hidden gem

2022

The Sloane Club celebrates its 100th anniversary and looks forward to another century of success

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GBB 2023 —— S

STEPHEN WEBSTER Contemporary fine jewellery that refuses to go unnoticed

‘L

ast year was tumultuous. We had to pull out of our flagship store in Moscow, and Russia is a bigger market than the US for us. Despite the havoc, we ended the year on a high, launching our collection in collaboration with Dale Vince of Skydiamond. I met Dale seven years ago, when he was still experimenting with creating diamonds from carbon extracted from the sky. They were opaque brown crystals and I loved the idea of them absorbing all the atmosphere’s muck, so debris was the inspiration behind this wonderfully disruptive collection.

I threw the kitchen sink at my designs, using titanium to give a space age feel. I expected millennials to be our first buyers but to our surprise it was a couple in their seventies who snapped up the first ones.

I also launched my limited edition collection of rings, “Rebelles”, inspired by the compelling stories of seven legendary women, from a terrifying Chinese female pirate to Anna Pavlova and Mata Hari.

I’m also really enjoying my Reset offer, which I began four years ago, enabling people to bring in their jewellery boxes that might contain an odd earring, a broken chain or a wedding ring post-divorce for me to repurpose. Transforming things that have an emotional attachment to people is not just sustainable but also totally uplifting. Jewellery is about celebrating life’s joys – love, a new baby, an anniversary – and that’s why I take such delight in being a jeweller.

Meet The Websters

The ‘ReBelles’ Cocktail Rings

TIMELINE

1989

Stephen Webster founds the brand. Today it’s a family business of two generations, a father, mother, brother, and daughter

2011

Stephen becomes one of the world’s first jewellers to receive a Fairtrade Gold license. He visited mines globally to understand working conditions

2013

King Charles, then the Prince of Wales, presents Stephen Webster with an MBE, for his services to training and skills in the British jewellery industry

2016

First of three accreditations from Positive Luxury’s Butterfly Mark, which awards brands contributing to the future of the planet

2022

Launches the first collaboration with Skydiamond, the world’s first carbon negative diamond, marking a new era for the industry

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I work with my Russian wife, Assia, and I’m so happy my daughters have found their way into the business, too. It’s important to train the next generation up to keep our craft and skills alive, which is why I and others like Theo Fennell, set up The Leopards in 2016 to encourage, mentor and support young jewellers starting out.’

Stephen Webster MBE, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

When Stephen started his apprenticeship in Hatton Garden in 1977, he spent the first three years hand making chains. There was no possible link he couldn’t make.

2

Aged 21, Stephen talked his way into an exhibition set up to showcase British jewellers at the British Embassy in Brussels – he was the youngest designer by at least 10 years.

3 4

In the 1980s, aged 24, Stephen set up a workshop in Montecito, Santa Barbara. His first celebrity client was Elizabeth Taylor.

Returning to England in 1990, Stephen applied for a job as production manager at Theo Fennell but Theo said he was far too talented and encouraged him to start out on his own.

5

Always keen to give back, Stephen has run various marathons to raise money for charities. His fastest time was 2 hours and 47 minutes.

Impressive!

‘TRANSFORMING THINGS THAT HAVE AN EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT TO PEOPLE IS NOT JUST SUSTAINABLE BUT ALSO TOTALLY UPLIFTING’

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STEPHEN WEBSTER Second Floor, 130 Mount Street London W1K 3NY +44 (0)20 7199 6463 stephenwebster.com stephenwebsterjewellery

21/12/2022 12:31

GBB 2023 —— S

ST GEORGE

Contemporary high-end, mixed-use regeneration developments across London, Oxfordshire and Birmingham

‘S

t George, a proud member of the Berkeley Group, has been regenerating complex sites into successful mixed-use developments for over 35 years. Among our greatest achievements is Grand Union, a pioneering canalside neighbourhood close to Wembley.

Working in partnership with the London Borough of Brent, and in consultation with the local community, we secured planning consent to deliver 3,350 homes (35 percent affordable), 14 acres of green, open space and a new canalside piazza, bringing life back to our stretch of the Grand Union Canal. In addition, working with SEGRO we are delivering a new multi-level industrial facility, the first of its kind in the UK. Looking forward, we are excited about our upcoming Camden Goods Yard development in NW1. Working in partnership with Morrisons, the eight-acre former goods yard site will deliver 644 homes, a new Morrisons store, commercial office space and a rooftop chilli farm providing a farm-to-fork dining experience in addition to an education facility for local schools.

We are operating in an everchanging landscape; the past three years have shown that we can be

Conscious developments by St George are regenerating sites all over the UK

Camden Goods Yard, NW1

Grand Union, HA0

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‘THE NEIGHBOURHOODS WE CREATE ARE UNIQUELY DESIGNED, LOCALLY INSPIRED AND HIGHLY SUSTAINABLE’ agile and still deliver the same highquality developments and worldclass customer service. Customers are becoming more discerning when it comes to the sustainability credentials of our developments, from the materials we use during construction to our focus on biodiversity net gain.

Our approach is highly collaborative and long term, which means taking time to understand each site and its community, and working in partnership to deliver market-leading developments.

The neighbourhoods we create are uniquely designed, locally inspired and highly sustainable, combining the amenities a healthy community needs with high quality commercial space and beautiful homes.’

Tim Gawthorn, Regional Sales & Marketing Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

At its Chelsea Creek development, St George has created London’s first new network of canals and waterways in nearly 100 years.

A new neighbourhood in Hendon, Silkstream, is inspired by nature and designed to achieve over 895 percent biodiversity net gain through measures such as rooftop gardens.

3

London Dock sits alongside the restored Grade II-listed Pennington Street warehouse and comprises stunning apartments, restaurants, shops and immersive gardens in Wapping.

4

Now home to high-end apartments, Wandsworth Mills boasts an undiscovered history in textiles and cloth making, largely due to the arrival of French Huguenots.

5

When the Camden Goods Yard development launches, it will have a rooftop farm with space for growing produce and a restaurant.

Chelsea Creek, SW6

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ST GEORGE St George House, 16 The Boulevard Imperial Wharf, Fulham London SW6 2UB +44 (0)20 4586 2938 stgeorgeplc.com berkeley_group

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GBB 2023 —— S

ST JAMES INTERIORS

Handcrafted bespoke joinery specialist championing the next generation

‘M

y main business is construction – joinery has always been a hobby.

But I decided I wanted to grow that hobby and see what doors opened for me. It’s all about making furniture beautiful but also practical. We want to make our clients’ lives better by giving honest advice through the bespoke knowledge we put into each design.

All of our furniture is handcrafted and made in Britain. I am passionate about long-term education and passing on these craft skills to the next generation. This will help our industry prosper in the future and inspire a younger generation to

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DID YOU KNOW?

1

Joinery and furnituremaking has been in Pritesh’s family for over 70 years. His grandfather had his own joinery company in Uganda.

2 3

St James Interiors uses off-cuts from its workshop to create smaller gifts and accessories for its clients.

start their own businesses. We also believe in supporting local artisans and buying British materials.

The past 12 months have not been easy. Costs have increased considerably – firstly because of Covid and then the war in Ukraine.

The price of material in joinery has more than doubled, including items such as MDF and timber.

Everyone has also suffered due to big lead times for materials, however we mitigated this by pre-ordering materials in advance and we are lucky to have a large warehouse for this storage.

Despite the challenges, we have exciting plans. I am launching Jush London, with my wife Justina.

It’s a retail business through which we will sell our furniture designs such as our award-winning Dhan and Vithal Jesse Desks. Whenever I design furniture, I like the piece to be an investment and as sustainable as possible, so that people will keep it forever. For Jush, we will also be collaborating with an artist to create bespoke artwork and producing a fabric line with a fashion designer. In addition, we are keen to educate people about joinery so we are planning to create interesting content around the subject next year.’

To reduce the brand’s carbon footprint, it has a wood burner in its factory that allows the team to use wood waste to heat the workshop.

4 5

St James Interiors’ awardwinning Dhan Desk was inspired by a spaceship from Star Wars.

The name for Jush London is a combination of the first two letters of Pritesh’s wife, Justina and the last two letters of Pritesh.

ST JAMES INTERIORS Vithal House, 35 Gorst Road London NW10 6LA +44 (0)20 8961 1342 stjamesinteriors.com stjamesinteriors

All of St James Interiors’ beautiful wood furniture is handcrafted in Britain

Pritesh Lad, Principal

TIMELINE

2018

St James Interiors founded by Pritesh Lad

2020

Win the Table category at The International Yacht & Aviation Awards

2021

Win the Table category at The International Property Awards

2022

Expanded the workshop facility by 5,000 sq/ft and bought new machinery

2023

St James Interiors launch new retail brand Jush London

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STRATHBERRY

Luxury leather bags and accessories, designed in Scotland and handcrafted in Spain

‘W

e celebrate our 10th anniversary this year.

It feels like it was yesterday that my husband, Guy, and I started Strathberry from a small studio in our home in Edinburgh – it’s incredibly rewarding to see how far we’ve come.

As the world reopened postpandemic, the hardest challenge was supporting our stores and finding new ways to engage with our customers in both London and Edinburgh. We were lucky to open three stores in 2020 and 2021 (Edinburgh, Covent Garden and Chelsea), while many businesses were struggling.

Last year we focused on connecting with our local communities and visitors to both cities with tailored services, events and activations to bring our story to life in our own setting. This paid off and we were overwhelmed by the support from our customers. We also had amazing feedback on our core handbag collection as well as our newly launched cashmere and our first-ever jewellery range.

One of the highlights last year was hosting our first ever New York Fashion Week event in September, when we had a chance to meet with influencers, stylists and editors overseas and showcase our new Portugal-inspired S/S23 collection.

We’ve also expanded our wholesale footprint internationally and in the UK, launching with Harrods, Printemps and Harvey Nichols Doha, to name just a few.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Strathberry Nano tote in chestnut & cashmere scarves; Crescent shoulder in black; Lana Osette cashmere blend; and Strathberry logo scarf and Music Bar hoop earrings; Mini Crescent vanilla & colourblock blanket

TIMELINE

2013

Strathberry is founded in Edinburgh by husband-and-wife team Guy and Leeanne Hundleby

2017

Meghan Markle carries the Strathberry Midi Tote on her first royal engagement, pre-marriage

2018

The brand opens its first boutique in London, followed by Edinburgh (2020), Covent Garden and Chelsea (2021)

2022

HRH The Duchess of Cambridge carries the Multrees wallet during the UK’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations

2023

Strathberry celebrates its 10th anniversary with the addition of a new signature monogram collection to its range

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‘WE CELEBRATE OUR 10TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR. IT’S INCREDIBLY REWARDING TO SEE HOW FAR WE’VE COME’ It’s essential for us to remain creatively relevant in our design direction; for us to attract the best talent in the market; and for us to achieve our growth ambitions, while still ensuring we deliver exceptional customer service to a global market.

All of this under the umbrella of trying to minimise the impact our brand has on the planet. Clearly there is a lot to be getting on with!’

Leeanne Hundleby, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The signature Strathberry handle bar, which defines each piece, was inspired by the unique closure that featured on vintage leather sheet music folders.

2

To house the brand, the founders commissioned a meticulous restoration of an Edinburgh townhouse, from the creative studio in the basement to the design atelier on the top floor.

3 4

Each Strathberry creation takes some of the world’s most talented artisans a minimum of 20 hours to meticulously craft by hand.

To get the scale, balance and proportions of the design exactly right, the brand’s founders built paper models of what would then become the brand’s best-selling Strathberry tote style.

5

Strathberry was named after the word Strath, meaning wide river valley in Scots. In the past, berries were used to dye the traditional Scottish fabrics.

STRATHBERRY 96 King’s Road London SW3 4TZ +44 (0)20 7581 4472 strathberry.com strathberry

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GBB 2023 —— S

SUNSPEL

Beautifully made British clothes for the modern wardrobe

‘O

ver the last year we’ve continued to focus on what we are good at, which is producing really high quality products. At the same time, we’ve tried to improve everything we do and stay very close to our customers. It’s also been important for me to rebuild the strength of morale within our own team. All of these things have been vital in an uncertain world where it’s hard to know what the future holds.

Last year we opened a new shop in London’s Lamb’s Conduit Street, taking the total in the capital to seven, with one in Tokyo and one in New York. We also opened a “store in store” in Selfridges, something we have wanted to do for a long while.

The other highlight of the year was a second collaboration with Paul Weller. I’m glad we did it because second collaborations are often stronger than one-offs because you get used to working together. We also did one with Edie Campbell, which was great for us as it raised the profile of our womenswear, which is not something for which we’re all that well known.

Uncertainty will continue to be a challenge in the coming year although the fact that all our production is so close to home means that we will avoid the wider supply chain difficulties affecting other companies. I’m also determined to raise our profile internationally. Already

Sunspel has made its collections in Nottingham since it was founded in 1860

TIMELINE

1860

Company founded in Nottingham

by Thomas Hill, who opens a hosiery and underwear factory

1908

Sunspel makes some of the world’s earliest luxury T-shirts – simple lightweight tops made from Sea Island cotton

1937

The Sunspel factory moves to Long Eaton, Nottingham, where it remains today in the same redbrick building

1947

Sunspel introduces boxer shorts to the UK from the United States, adapting the design to make it more comfortable

2006

Daniel Craig wears the Riviera Polo in Casino Royale, chosen by Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming

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‘WE MAINTAIN OUR TRADITIONAL VALUES WHILE AT THE SAME TIME STRIVING TO BE MODERN AND INNOVATIVE’ 50 percent of our online business is international but I’d like that proportion to be higher. What Sunspel has always done is to maintain its traditional values while at the same time striving to be modern and innovative in exactly the same way as our Victorian founders were in their own time. I don’t want Sunspel to be a brand that rests on its laurels; I want to look to the future.’

Nicholas Brooke, CEO

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The company’s founder, Thomas Hill, started in business as manager of the Nottingham interests of the Victorian businessman, politician, and philanthropist, Samuel Morley.

2

Sunspel’s original T-shirt was made as a tunic for the warm climate of the Far East, converted to a luxury garment when manufactured in Sea Island cotton in 1908.

3

The Sunspel Riviera Polo shirt originated in the 1950s as a result of Peter Hill’s – the founder’s grandson – love of holidaying on the French Riviera.

4

The new lightweight mesh used in the Sunspel Riviera Polo shirt was developed using Nottingham’s traditional expertise in lace-making to create a fabric that is cool and pleasant to wear.

5

The Sunspel boxer shorts were given a huge commercial boost by the famous Levi’s jeans advert of 1985 starring Nick Kamen.

SUNSPEL 13-15 Chiltern Street London W1U 7PG +44 (0)20 7009 0650 sunspel.com sunspelclothing

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T

GBB 2023

TAYLOR HOWES 304 THEO FENNELL 306 THOMAS PINK 308 THORP INTERIORS 310 TM LIGHTING 312 TOM DAVIES 320 TRAMP 322

TROY LONDON 324 TUSTING 326

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TAYLOR HOWES

International interior design studio

‘L

ast year delivered the biggest variety of projects we’ve ever had in the studio at one time. Now, for example, we have a diverse portfolio, from ski chalets in Switzerland, to a palace in the Middle East and the final phases of a gothic-luxury hotel, Chateau Denmark, in Soho.

We’ve adapted our way of working and adopted new technologies. Our in-house visualisers have developed software that enables us to show clients the design intention very realistically.

As a studio, we’re known for being agile, but I am proud of the calibre of creativity and design projects we’re turning out. We have doubled our procurement capabilities and firmly rooted our reputation for being a studio that champions British designers and artists. For example, we’ve just completed 7 Charles Street for developer client, REDD, which houses close to 20 all British designed and made products; it’s been our method of tackling the macro factors impacting the global supply chain.

The studio will celebrate its 30th anniversary this year.

Our motto is “be kind and be honest”, and I set great store by loyalty – my number two, Jane Landino, has been with me for 20 years – and together we’ll be planning the future of Taylor Howes

Taylor Howes’ approach is characterised by an ethos of ‘true design for living’

Karen Howes (left) and Jane Landino

TIMELINE

1993

Taylor Howes Designs is founded by Karen Howes, a member of the British Institute of Interior Design

2006

The studio wins the Andrew Martin Interior Designer of the Year Award, the Oscars of the design world

2016

Opening of the studio’s Knightsbridge home.

Karen also named CEO of the Year at the Business Excellence Awards

2019

The studio completes its one thousandth project.

It’s now an international practice with clients all over the world

2023

Taylor Howes celebrates its 30th anniversary in business with several landmark interior design projects

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‘OUR MOTTO IS “BE KIND AND BE HONEST”’ Designs. Over 40 percent of our clients are repeat business, which tells its own story. In the year ahead we’ll be consolidating our ethical and sustainable business practices, so we can work towards recognised accreditation in this.

We will continue to champion what we’re passionate about and deliver the very best for our clients.

This year will see us complete several landmark projects, which includes Knightsbridge Gardens - London’s largest prime build-torent development and I’m pleased to say Taylor Howes Designs can be found in every major London development.’

Karen Howes, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Founder Karen Howes was encouraged to pursue design by her roommate, Martin Waller of Andrew Martin. Karen shared her first studio with the inimitable Issie Blow.

2 3

Over 13 languages are spoken in the studio. The team is made up of ten different nationalities and currently operates in eight regions.

Head of Studio, Jane Landino, celebrated 20 years with Taylor Howes in 2022. Jane started on work experience after a career change from being a trader in the City.

4

In 2018 Karen founded ‘Rest Nest’ a charitable initiative that transforms the on-ward rest and break facilities for nurses and healthcare workers in the NHS.

5

Taylor Howes has its own shade of navy, which was used in the studio’s collaboration with famous British cooker brand, AGA. There is a Taylor Howes AGA.

TAYLOR HOWES 49-51 Cheval Place London SW7 1EW +44 (0)20 7349 9017 taylorhowes.co.uk taylorhowesdesigns

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GBB 2023 —— T

THEO FENNELL A jeweller with a passion for rarity and beauty

‘T

he hardest part of 2022 was luring people back into the shop. Zoom was a godsend in lockdown and for people abroad to get an understanding of our craft, but it’s still a bit like watching a filmed play rather than experiencing it in a theatre.

People are more curious about craft and beauty than they used to be. They had time in lockdown to think about why they’d spend thousands on something that’s made in huge profusion that lots of people own, when they could spend considerably less on something made for them with real resonance. It always strikes me as odd to see six women lunching who all have the same handbag. The luxury business should follow the wine industry and

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DID YOU KNOW?

educate people better about what constitutes real quality. Too many people wear expensive bling rather than learning about and investing in beauty and quality. Our “Precious Few” range has rings set with a stone that’s not necessarily expensive but unique. Each ring has a story, rarity and romance.

Through The Leopards, which I and a few other jewellery figures started in 2016, and my Gilded Youth programme, I’m always trying to encourage and support young jewellers. We’ve started putting jewellerymaking starter kits into schools as so many want to draw and design but few learn the skills to do the actual making and where there a far more openings.

What I enjoy doing most is creating jewellery specifically for someone. It’s like the difference between painting any old face and a portrait. Next year we’ll be doing more with colourful stones, not the obvious rubies, emeralds or diamonds, but with one-off gems with real character that we’ll design into masterworks.

They’ll be so much more than shiny commodities.

We’ll carry on persuading people to have something beautiful made for them rather than just going into a shop for something branded to hang round their neck.’

1 2 3

Theo has had three craftsmen who have worked for him for over 35 years.

Theo designed the European Film Awards in 1996. Twentyfive years later his daughter, Emerald Fennell, won one.

Theo designed a watch with Roger Smith that he sold in 2007 for £20,000. In 2022 it sold in Geneva for over half a million pounds.

4 5

The Gilded Youth initiative has now engaged well over 1,000 students.

The brand has always had more women than men on its workforce and more female than male customers.

Theo’s beautiful designs are all made by master craftspeople in his London workshop

THEO FENNELL 2 Garrison Square Chelsea Barracks London SW1W 8BG +44 (0)20 7591 5050 theofennell.com officialtheofennell

Theo Fennell, founder

TIMELINE

1974

Theo Fennell forms his first jewellery business after an apprenticeship in Hatton Garden

1982

The first Theo Fennell store opens at 177 Fulham Road. The location was chosen to be close to the jeweller’s clients

1998

Theo moves into and helps design the now iconic building and workshop at 169 Fulham Road

2007

The jeweller presents Show Off, a groundbreaking exhibition of his work at the Royal Academy

2021

Theo buys back the business and moves to his current headquarters at Chelsea Barracks

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THOMAS PINK

Famous London shirtmaker revived

‘T

homas Pink’s shirts made a name for themselves with their high-quality yet affordable tailoring from the mid-1980s onwards.

Over the last two years, we’ve worked hard to ensure that the brand is back, and now thriving.

The company, previously owned

by LVMH, fell victim to the trend towards more informalwear during lockdown and closed in 2020.

Our new owners, an investment finance company, acquired the brand in November 2020. The company’s directors are fans of British heritage brands in general and of Thomas Pink in particular, having grown up with the name from their early days in the City.

The newly revived business started trading online in November 2021, with the new shop opening on Jermyn Street a year later. The relaunch has not been without its challenges but we’ve been buoyed by the loyalty of Thomas Pink’s customers and the halo of a big, well-recognised brand.

We will continue to grow the brand in a sustainable way, offering new products and shops.

Jermyn Street is important as the home of British shirtmaking and further shops could open in strategic locations including New York.

To ensure product consistency, we have retained the same purpose-built production line originally set up under LVMH’s ownership of the brand. We continue to use the best Egyptian long-staple cottons sourced

Thomas Pink has been renowned for its shirting since the 1980s

TIMELINE

1984

Founded by three Irishmen, brothers James, Peter, and John Mullen, and named after an 18th-century tailor

2021

Thomas Pink relaunches online with a dedicated ecommerce platform, retailing men’s and women’s shirts

2022

A new photography and film campaign with Peaky Blinders star Harry Kirton launches

2022

The Jermyn Street Edition launches in October, paying homage to the 1980s and Thomas Pink’s signature striped shirts

2022

A new flagship shop opens on London’s Jermyn Street in November, launched with a big party

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‘WE SIMPLY REFUSE TO COMPROMISE ON QUALITY’ specifically from the finest Italian and Swiss mills, and only use sustainably sourced mother-ofpearl buttons for our shirts. We simply refuse to compromise on quality. It is important to us that our customers can trust the Pink product, brand, and value.

Men’s fashion has changed in recent years, becoming more casual. However, a high-quality, well-made, well-fitting shirt will never go out of style. And this is what we will continue to deliver to our customers, old and new.’

Zoheb Hafeez, Finance Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Thomas Pink, the tailor, was known for producing red hunting jackets, which were consequently called ‘pink coats’

Thomas Pink shirts have been worn by Keiran Hinds, Ben Whishaw, Charles Edwards, Matthew Goode, David Gandy, Reuben James, and Colin Trevorrow.

3

Over the past year, Thomas Pink has collaborated with British and international photographers, including Anna Huix, Ashton Hugh and Tami Aftab to create a unique series, Portraits in Pink.

4

It prides itself on its craftship, known as the ‘10 Points of a Thomas Pink Shirt’, helping customers to understand the time and skill that goes into every shirt.

5

In 2022, Finnish paper artist Juho Könkkölä was commissioned to create paper figurines in Thomas Pink’s signature shirt colours for a special project, which is now on display in the Jermyn Street store.

THOMAS PINK 106 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6EE thomaspink.com pinkshirtmaker

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THORP INTERIORS

Creating beautiful interiors through architecture and design

‘W

e were very busy during the pandemic, completing two very large residential projects in Italy and the US remotely. Because of restrictions we couldn’t visit the Italian site until it was nearly completed and we didn’t travel to the American site until it was completely finished. That’s unheard of. We couldn’t have managed it without investment in advanced design technology, including VR and we’re really benefiting from that now. So, in many ways, we came out of lockdown stronger than we went in.

Covid wasn’t bad for business – people were focusing on their homes, after all – though Brexit was, because it made everyone sit on their hands.

One of the hardest things for us, however, was getting people back into the office when restrictions were lifted. Everybody at Thorp works in teams. There’s never just one person working on a project – there are probably four or five – and they need to be able to talk to each other. That collaborative, creative thing doesn’t happen on Zoom.

One of the greatest challenges we’re facing now is growing the business by around 50 percent. And that’s not because we’re envisaging work. It’s because we’ve already got lots of wonderful clients and several projects, both in England and around the world.

Another development is incorporating our new brand motto. We’ve called it “Living in the Details”, which reflects not just our

Collaboration and creativity are at the heart of Thorp Interiors’ every project

TIMELINE

1985

Thorp Design is founded by Philippa Thorp as a 360° architecture and design studio

2003

D&D Award for Best Commercial Project – KX Gym. Philippa Thorp is named BIDA Interior Designer of the Year

2012

Thorp Interiors moves the company to the West End where it remains to this day

2021-22

Projects in Lake Como and Montana are commissioned, designed and completed during lockdowns

2022-23

Launch of new motto ‘Living in the Details’, emphasising the brand’s careful attention to even the smallest detail

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‘EACH DESIGN PROJECT IS A PROCESS, INVOLVING ARCHITECTS AND INTERIOR DESIGNERS, ALL WORKING TO ACHIEVE ONE VISION’ attention to detail, but our obsession with it. Each design project is a process, involving architects and interior designers, all working to achieve one vision. We are also developing the fine art side of our business too.

So yet another task this year will be finding more brilliant people to join our team. I’m a very positive person and I’m genuinely excited about the future.’

Philippa Thorp, founder & Director

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Philippa Thorp launched the company in 1985 from her spare bedroom. It was only when her daughter arrived and she needed the spare room back that she moved into her first offices.

2

The brand’s projects range from homes in the UK and overseas, holiday villas, chalets, private gyms and jets to golf and health clubs, luxury yachts, offices, art galleries, a pub – and a horse box.

3 4

Thorp has designed and furnished three out of ten of the most expensive private houses that are now currently for sale in London.

Clients range from HNWs and financiers, worldwide political leaders to lawyers, the majority of whom become firm friends and part of the Thorp ‘family’.

5

One of the brand’s clients once commented that in the 20 years since the completion of their home the only item they had to replace was a rug.

THORP SHOWROOM & GALLERY 190/192 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX +44 (0)20 7235 7808 thorp_design

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GBB 2023 —— T The Foundling Museum lit with the TM Classic Picture Light and Zero 31 accent light

TM LIGHTING

Innovative specialists providing museum-grade lighting for art

‘O

ur raison d’être is to light art, and in just a decade we’ve moved the industry forward, away from old-fashioned incandescent lighting and to using museum-grade LED lighting in picture lights.

Despite Brexit and supply chain issues, we’ve had an astonishingly good tenth anniversary year. We delivered one of our most exciting projects to date at Frieze London, supplying the entirety of the fair’s lighting and reducing its energy output for lighting by 50 percent, and we reopened our gallery for

A London private residence lit with the TM Slim Light Pro

‘WE’RE CONSTANTLY FINDING INNOVATIVE WAYS OF MEETING PEOPLE’S SPECIALIST NEEDS AROUND LIGHTING ART’

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PHOTOS:© ANDREW BEASLEY; © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; © TM LIGHTING

The Londoner Hotel, utilising the TM ArtPoint spotlight

DID YOU KNOW?

PHOTOS:© ANDREW BEASLEY; © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; © TM LIGHTING

1 emerging artists. We’re constantly finding innovative ways of meeting people’s specialist needs around lighting art.

We continue to work within historic houses nationwide, like Arundel Castle and Kenwood House. One of our most memorable projects, requiring an entirely bespoke approach, was lighting Burghley House, illuminating murals, ceilings, furniture and the art collection.

As well as this, at Blenheim Palace we relit the paintings.

It’s fitting that in 2022 we finished the project from which our story began. TM Lighting came about when James Peill and Lord March (now the Duke of Richmond) asked us to relight a single artwork, which eventually became a commission for the entire house. LED was in its infancy then and you either had orangey light or hospital-cold white light, both of which distorted paintings’ real colours. Our aim is ensuring a painting is evenly, clearly lit so light isn’t just bouncing off a gilt frame.

We have some very exciting projects ahead. Our Master Picture Lights will enhance Woburn Abbey and we’re putting our Goodwood Picture Lights into Strawberry Hill House. We will also carry out widescale commercial projects too, one in Nine Elms and in the Raffles Hotel in the Old War Office, in which we’ll be installing our SlimLight Pros. Alongside these public-facing projects, we look forward to many upcoming projects with private clients with incredible art collections to be brought to light.’

The company began with product design meetings in the V&A. Ten years on, it supplies lighting to some of the world’s leading galleries, museums and historic houses.

2

TM pioneered the use of museum-grade lighting from LEDs in its picture lights, while creating uniform lighting on artworks as high as three metres.

3

TM has supplied lighting for the art collections of five of the ten ‘Treasure Houses of England’: Beaulieu Palace House, Blenheim Palace, Burghley House, Chatsworth and Woburn Abbey.

4

Next to its Kings Cross manufacturing site, the brand has reopened its not-for-profit art space, TM Gallery, for presenting exhibitions by emerging artists, all illuminated with the best quality lighting.

5 The Wallace Collection lit with the TM Slim Light Pro

Between Love & Fear, George Triggs at TM Lighting Gallery lit with the TM G130

The brand holds the intellectual property rights for many of its products, with patent pending on the MagPoint, a system in which a spotlight or recessed downlight can be plugged into the same aperture.

TM LIGHTING 7 Cubitt Street London WC1X 0LR +44 (0)20 7278 1600 tmlighting.com tmlighting

Andrew Molyneux, co-founder

TIMELINE

2012

Redesigns picture lights with sustainable LED technology.

Commissioned to illuminate Goodwood House, and wins awards

2016

Releases the SlimLight Pro, miniaturising the technology of its Classic LED picture light for contemporary homes and heritage buildings

2018

Installs its new G150 gallery spotlights at Masterpiece and illuminates Damien Hirst’s 24ft crystal Pegasus at the Brasserie of Light

2020

Completes five-year project lighting the Wellington Collection at Apsley House, including works by Rubens, van Dyck and Goya

2022

Appointed lighting provider for Frieze London, supplying its lighting to over 160 of the world’s leading contemporary galleries

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An example of how our cities could look in the future by URB

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CITIES OF THE FUTURE —— GBB 2023

MAGICAL MEGALOPOLIS What should cities in our brave new world look like – and can we build them?

Ellen Miles ponders the potential urban utopia of a future where citizens, productivity, community, environment, nature and culture all come together equitably

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GBB 2023 —— CITIES OF THE FUTURE

TRANSPORT: MOVING FORWARD

By 2050, anti-car planning and policies will have led to (almost) car-free streets, with remaining vehicles fully electric. Many roads will have migrated to well-lit, fume-free underground networks – freeing up precious surface-level space for public amenities. These tunnels will assist, not disrupt, ecological processes: take Kuala Lumpur’s 9.7km Stormwater Management and Road Tunnel (SMART), which combines transport with flood control. Along with cyclelanes and highways, and app-ordered, electric vehicles, reliable high-capacity and carbon neutral public transport will leverage drops in tunnelling technology costs. Look to Virgin Hyperloop, which is developing electric shuttles travelling at speeds up to 670 mph, three times faster than high speed rail, and ten times faster than traditional rail – making a London to Paris journey in under 30 minutes.

Subterranean shuttles will also revolutionise product delivery. British tech scale-up Magway, drawing investors like Ocado, is developing a ‘completely trackable, super secure’ zeroemissions postal network in London, capable of transporting tens of thousands of parcels an hour, timed ‘down to the very second’.

‘Sky bridges’ will be far more than walkways, with homes, offices, restaurants and more.

We’ve seen the New York High Line repurposed as a public park, and Washington DC is soon to unveil its 11th Street Bridge Park. They will be facilitated by innovative engineering technology like Multi, a rope-free Willy Wonka-esque lift, which uses a world-first cable-less system that allows it to travel both vertically and horizontally.

THE ‘15 MINUTE CITY’

character and community. Bringing diverse industries and functions close together will shorten supply chains, and create opportunities for hyperlocal, renewable energy solutions: a 2020 world-first scheme saw waste heat from the London Underground warming 1,350 homes, two leisure centres and a school in Islington.

Shopping in these villages will be different from shopping on today’s high street, with hubs focusing on independent, local businesses, resulting in a renaissance of workshops and ‘smiths’: think cobblers, tailors and tech-smiths. For everyday supplies like grains, oils and cleaning products, refill stores will be the norm, as will having them delivered to your door through brands like Charrli, the milkman-style kitchen and bath product refill service. Beyond refills, the world of food will be localised through produce swaps and hyperlocal small urban farms, and underground and indoor hydroponic farms.

Social enterprise Incredible Edible is leading the charge on community-led growing in the UK, while visionary guerrilla gardener Ron Finley is empowering communities to turn food deserts into food sanctuaries in Los Angeles.

Complex planning for myriad, often competing needs in small spaces will be assisted by tools like Delve, created by the Google-owned urban innovation organisation, Sidewalk Labs.

Its software creates optimal design solutions for neighbourhoods, factoring in considerations like residential space, energy usage, natural light, transport access, and walkability.

THE ‘15 MINUTE CITY’ IS ONE IN WHICH RESIDENTS’ ESSENTIAL NEEDS – FOOD EMPLOYMENT, SOCIAL CONNECTION, NATURE AND LEISURE AMENITIES - ARE A SHORT WALK OR CYCLE FROM HOME

What will be done with the remaining ground space? A planning (r)evolution presently underway is moving away from the 1930s ‘Athens Charter’ (advocating the separation of residential and business zones) towards the ‘Leipzig Charter’, whose guiding principle is a walkable city of diverse, multi-use, space-efficient neighbourhoods. This includes the idea of a ‘15 minute city’, in which residents’ essential needs – including employment, food, lifetime learning, social connection, nature and leisure amenities – are a short walk or cycle from home. The 15 minute model will reinstate cities as a collection of villages, each with its own

MULTI-PURPOSE SPACES

Buildings will be multi-purpose spaces in which to work, learn, relax and connect, used differently at morning, noon and night – remaining alive and dynamic around the clock and calendar. The Bouldering Project, a daytime bouldering space, becomes a music venue at night and also functions as a workspace with a mezzanine offering a broad shared desk or high bar seating for hot-deskers.

Such spaces appeal to diverse groups – artists, entrepreneurs, community leaders, academics – creating opportunities for ideas exchange across disciplines.

Vicky Spratt, author of Tenants: The People on the Frontline of Britain’s Housing Emergency (Profile Books, £20), says the past holds many lessons: ‘Le Corbusier thought buildings could form the vertical version of a street, with shops and other amenities – which is why he put a nursery school, a paddling pool and running track on the roof of La Cité Radieuse in Marseille.’ She cites the internally pedestrianised Barbican, filled with cooling, beautiful green and blue space, as inspiration. ‘We can build safe, secure, decent, and truly affordable housing that’s environmentally and socially conscious,’ she says. ‘The thinking just needs to be joined up, and the funding needs to be there.’

By 2045, the UK’s population of over-85s will have almost doubled since 2020 to 3.1 million, 4.3 percent of the population. Laura Macartney, co-founder of InCommon, a social enterprise that creates

PHOTOS: URB

s recently as 1900, fewer than one in six people lived in urban areas. By 2050, it will be more than four out of six. Picture your city in 2050. What do you see? A vague image of glass and flying cars? Or a more dystopian scene? To have any hope of realising a viable, fair, regenerative future, we need to relinquish hasty assumptions and pessimism, and create clear visions of what cities can, and must, look like.

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PHOTOS: URB

A view of the resilient landscape at XZERO city by URB

intergenerational bridges between young and old, says, ‘We need to build infrastructure that bakes intergenerational connection in. This means co-located services, spaces designed with all ages in mind, and multigenerational housing.’ Japan, which has the world’s oldest population, has already pioneered its Yoro Shisetsu centres, combining care facilities for children and the elderly. In West London, the Nightingale Hammerson care home and Apples and Honey nursery share an address.

Multi-purpose spaces will be agile, effective, largely co-owned and co-managed by local communities, under an agreed set of rules and responsibilities, simultaneously providing a response to the housing crisis. It’s not a new concept and already such spaces are working, like 12 Claremont, a former printing factory. It was recently bought by the Hastings Community Land Trust to become ‘an explicitly inclusive, creative, and affordable neighbourhood hub for living, working and community action’.

As an alternative to current top-down urban planning models, placemaking uses the skills, knowledge and creativity of people who (will) use a space as capital to design, build and manage it. By 2070 citizens will actively co-create their cities. Postcode gardeners will

maintain public nature, providing nature connection to the landless while eliminating the need for toxic chemical herbicides. Land around critical state-managed infrastructure like transport and hospitals, will become urban commons, with workshops, plays, gigs and sports days bringing communities together. We will no longer be defined as ‘consumers’ (see Jon Alexander’s essay on page 266) but active citizens.

What we create and do, rather than what and where we spend, will form the basis of our impact on our city. The word ‘city’ comes from civitas, the Latin for a body of citizens, the community. This concept will be felt in the bones of every 2050s city.

GREEN DREAM

The metropoles of 2050 will be green with biophilic infrastructure and architecture abounding. We’ll see green walls, rooftop allotments, pocket parks, tree- and hedge-lined streets, and ponds. People will be paid to rewild their lawns and depave their driveways; companies will get subsidies for incorporating (and maintaining) habitat-making and -connecting features for birds and pollinators into their office façades. Policies will provide legal COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB | 317

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GBB 2023 —— CITIES OF THE FUTURE

Aerial view of XZERO city, a self-sufficient city by URB

protections and rights to organic entities and ecosystems. concrete, pollution or stress. Twenty fifty’s cities will be alive with Nature will work hard to reduce the heat island effect, mitigate nature – and so even more alive in creativity, colour, soul and spirit. flooding, and clean the air. The proposed ‘Forest City’ in Liuzhou, China, provides an early template with every house, office, hospital, school and shop covered in STREET-SMART plants. Outnumbering its 30,000 residents, the city Big Data and the Internet of Things will make cities FUTURE CITIES FROM URB will also be home to 40,000 trees and over a more accessible, inclusive, and safer for all. This includes million plants. auditory and visual cues for deaf and blind people.

URB is a global leader in Tokyo, home to the world’s busiest subway station, Engineer Rudi Scheuermann proposes a timedeveloping sustainable cities with a sense of purpose and cost-efficient way to cover high-rise walls with Shinjuku, with 3.5 million using it daily, plays birdsong to accelerate the world’s plants: just roughen the surfaces and species will from subway exits, and sounds on escalators help blind transition towards net zero people navigate. In Los Angeles, street lights flash naturally settle and flourish, as they do on cliffs. developments. The company warnings of oncoming ambulances.

As water conservation becomes a prime concern has several mega-scale sustainable cities currently in and temperatures rise, processes like xeriscaping planning stages.

– which reduces or removes the need for irrigation by selecting heat-hardy, low maintenance, droughtLOOKING AHEAD URB shares its expertise on a larger mega-scale, resistant plants – will be vital.

Today’s cities, designed under neo-liberal capitalism, working with governments prioritise cars and commerce over community and Internal spaces will be green too. Workspaces as well as developers from like Second Home already have biophilic interiors, climate – a value set inconsistent with future-proof around the world. Ongoing with bright, natural-light-flooded spaces filled with resilience. To ensure their – and our – survival, all projects include AlNama Smart City in Riyadh, Nexgen plants, including full-sized trees, and neat, healthy cities must start to centre social and ecological good.

Sustainable City in Cairo moss patches covering unreachable sections of floor.

To achieve the future cities the world needs, it is and XZero City in Kuwait. Its It’s not concrete that makes a city – it’s culture. citizens who must act. Leaders in policy, industry and mission is to be the global and trusted leader in developing Cities are a kaleidoscopic clash of stories, a farrago community must act on a hyperlocal level, and value the next generation of of rhythms. They are playgrounds for ideas, swathed social and environmental concerns on a level with sustainable cities, while in the shimmer of art and the hum of music and economic ones. In an increasingly hostile climate and educating people that such cities are commercially conversation. Drag queens mingle with mechanics, with urban population booms, these changes must be viable to construct and poets rub shoulders with politicians, and footballers made – and are already in progress. A brighter future operate. urb.ae fraternise with florists. None of this demands is possible. Will you help to build it? n 318 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM/GBB

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River Action UK is a highly impactful charity on a mission to rescue Britain’s rivers from a deluge of agricultural, sewage and industrial pollution, and we need your help! www.riveractionuk.com info@riveractionuk.com @riveraction

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GBB 2023 —— T

TOM DAVIES

Bespoke glasses that fit so well they change your life

‘M

y current excitement is working on a pair of glasses for one of the most famous film franchises in the world – but I can’t talk about it yet.

Working on so many movies like The Matrix and Superman has massively driven sales and given the brand global recognition.

I launched our ready-to-wear line Catch London in America in March 2022, after debuting it in Canada the year before. We’ve already done a million pounds in sales. Our movie connection ensures Catch is seen as far more than a poky little brand – it really opens doors and gives me column inches and visibility that big companies with billions of pounds would struggle to get.

I’ve always bought a lottery ticket and I used to fantasise about what I’d spend my winnings on, only to realise I’ve already won my fantasy. I’m so proud of our success, although we’re still struggling a bit with retail for many reasons, one being working from home means people are going to their local optician rather than nipping to one of our central London stores from the office.

In contrast, our wholesale arm has really taken off in America. They love our British sense of humour and colour. And today people are really in the mood for some fun.

So, we’re onto a winner with our beautifully made jolly frames that change colour in the sun or glow in the dark. I’ve also invented my portable Acetate Kitchen where you can mix your colours to make

Founded in London over 20 years ago, Tom Davies glasses are now worn all over the world, including on the silver screen

With Heston Blumenthal he has made frames from Heston’s famous Snail Porridge

TIMELINE

2002

Tom Davies launches his eponymous eyewear brand, built on the principles of fit, form and function

2007

The brand is now exporting to 12 countries, so opens its own factory, and expands to a global network of opticians

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2012

Joining its UK base, Tom Davies opens a new office in Chicago to help grow the company in the USA

2017

The company moves to a bigger factory in London, merging the hardworking head office and production teams

2020-22

Launches custom brands Catch London and MD1888. Celebrates 20 years of bespoke in 2022

‘OUR WHOLESALE ARM HAS REALLY TAKEN OFF IN AMERICA WHERE THEY LOVE OUR BRITISH SENSE OF HUMOUR AND COLOUR’ your own frames. That’s allowed us to engage with people in a free, fun way and is proving hugely popular.

This year will be about restructuring the European business post-Brexit and building the salesforce in Chicago. My biggest goal for 2023 is to scale the American business – then there’ll be the movie!’

Tom Davies, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

Tom only just started wearing glasses this year, after pretending to for 20 years, ruining his favourite joke.

The brand has made enough bespoke glasses to fill Wembley stadium twice over.

The most unusual material Tom has made a frame from is a meteorite. With Heston Blumenthal he made frames from used lobster shells and porridge.

4 5

The company now exports to 35 countries and employs over a hundred staff.

Tom is the go-to brand for Hollywood with over 20 movies to date and six more currently in production. Tom loves the cinema and did film history as part of his degree.

TOM DAVIES BESPOKE OPTICIANS Sloane Square +44 (0)20 7730 5454 Canary Wharf +44 (0)20 3711 0020 Knightsbridge +44 (0)20 3711 0019 Royal Exchange +44 (0)20 3711 0012 tdtomdavies.com tdtomdavies

GBB 2023 —— T

TRAMP

Mayfair’s most exclusive private members’ club for more than 50 years

‘T

ramp is fast becoming the epicentre of London’s best events and this year we’ll be offering everything from comedy evenings and art exhibitions to insightful talks and live music performances.

We’re so proud to still be here after more than 50 years and plan to be here for another 50. However, like everyone in the hospitality sector, we had hurdles to overcome last year.

Our greatest challenge was staffing. Our ethos has always been to make both our members and the people who work for us feel part of the family and to do that you have to have low turnover of staff.

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2 3

The club’s name was inspired

by Charlie Chaplin’s famous character, The Little Tramp.

Unfortunately, many of our longserving overseas staff headed home during the pandemic and some didn’t return. So, we’ve had to work hard at recruitment, helping new employees feel valued as quickly as possible.

We were astonished by the loyalty of our members during the pandemic, continuing to pay their membership fees even when they couldn’t access the club. It’s true that lockdown forced people to socialise more at home, perhaps in smaller groups, and when the restrictions were lifted, some carried on doing just that. Others couldn’t wait to get out again – but they wanted to do things differently.

While dancing till dawn under the chandeliers is still a favourite pastime at Tramp, we noticed our members were much more interested in eating at the club, perhaps after a post-work aperitif and cigar in The Terrace, before heading down to our famous Zodiac Room restaurant. So, our focus has been on our food offering.

The Tramp Burger remains a firm favourite (especially at 3am), but we also have an amazing array of cuisines under our superstar head chef Edgar Hernandez. The restaurant also hosts occasional themed dinners where members can experience different tastes from around the world.’

The original membership fee was £10.50, and still is for anyone who joined in 1969.

There has never been a dress code – Tara PalmerTomkinson famously attended her 21st birthday party in a bikini, fur coat and snorkel.

4 5

Peter Sellers, Liza Minnelli, Ringo Star and Joan Collins all had their wedding receptions at the club.

These days Tramp puts as much emphasis on great food as it does on great music. Recent guest chefs include Kwame Amfo-Akonnor and Marco Pierre White, cooking alongside head chef Edgar Hernandez.

TRAMP 40 Jermyn Street London SW1Y 6DN +44 (0)20 7734 0565 tramp.co.uk tramp_london

Tramp nightclub is like no other, featuring 16th-century panelling and crystal chandeliers

David Fleming, General Manager

TIMELINE

1969

The club is founded

by Oscar Lerman, Bill Ofner and Johnny Gold and becomes an instant hit

1978

The nightclub scenes for The Stud, starring Joan Collins and Oliver Tobias, are filmed inside Tramp

1998

Founder Johnny Gold sells his share but remains the club’s ‘greeter-in-chief’ until 2003

2019

The club marks 50 years with a star-studded party, attended by Joan Collins, Rod Stewart and Michael Caine

2022

The nightclub completes a first full year of trading successfully post-pandemic

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GBB 2023 —— T

TROY LONDON

British luxury clothing brand offering timeless outerwear and wardrobe staples

‘T

ROY London clothes have a unique British appeal. Our designs must look effortlessly stylish, but they have also got to perform in the elements. We offer timeless pieces that can be worn and loved from one season to the next.

They’re clothes that live on and are classics for a reason. We look back into the archives of beautiful vintage pieces to influence our contemporary collections, adding technical features and luxurious details to ensure they meet the demands of busy lives.

Our high-profile female fans include Jacquetta Wheeler, Alice Naylor Leyland and Louise Roe, and we’re fast becoming the go-to brand for men seeking quality outerwear that withstands the wind and the rain but looks the part, too. We also branched out into childrenswear last year, with a range of coats designed in collaboration with Trotters and trimmed with Liberty print. I founded the business with my sister Lucia, and we’re both nature lovers.

We were brought up in the countryside, we love wildlife, travel and conservation.

It was a natural extension for us to make sure that TROY doesn’t have a harmful impact on the environment.

We’ve built great relationships with our factories in the UK, and make small batches with British craftsmen, limiting waste, and try to source our fabrics close to home, thereby keeping our carbon footprint as low as possible. We’re about designing high quality pieces that are made to last and treasured for years to come.

Like all growing businesses we have had our fair share of challenges.

As a small team we have to be quick to adapt. It’s really important to keep a strong sense of brand identity and clear vision on what makes TROY unique. In the midst of the trends that come and go, we try to focus on timeless designs

‘WE’RE ABOUT DESIGNING HIGH QUALITY PIECES THAT ARE MADE TO LAST AND TREASURED FOR YEARS TO COME’

Timeless designs in heritage fabrics are at the heart of TROY London’s USP

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made with beautiful fabrics. It is vital to ensure that it feels special to wear our designs, and it is this feeling of luxury that brings our customers back to us year after year.’

Rosie van Cutsem, co-founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

TROY London is named after Rosie and Lucia’s childhood home in Oxfordshire, which was previously home to Three Men in a Boat author Jerome K. Jerome.

2

Headquartered in Norfolk, TROY London’s designs are inspired by a love of the British landscape but shipped worldwide, and available in top department stores and selected boutiques.

3 4 5

The brand is a favourite of the Princess of Wales, who has been pictured in TROY London jackets and sweaters.

In support of Ukraine, Rosie and Lucia donated a coat for every coat bought through the brand’s online store.

TROY London has just launched a childrenswear collection as a natural extension of the brand’s expertise in tailoring, technical waterproofing and quality staples.

Next up? Dogs.

TROY LONDON Hilborough House, Hilborough Thetford, Norfolk IP26 5BQ +44 (0)20 3457 8549 troylondon.com troylondonuk

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GBB 2023 —— T

TUSTING

Exceptional leather luggage and handbags from a five-generation family business

‘A

s a small business, Tusting is inherently agile and we have a great team of staff who, first and foremost, just want to make beautiful bags and give outstanding customer service.

Business challenges evolve but what our customers really care about doesn’t, so we continue to put their needs first, regardless of world events. Of course, the past couple of years have demanded continued agility; it’s what rewarded us through the difficulties and it’s still the way forward. Now we have all the uncertainty of the current global economy to deal with plus doing business post-Brexit.

However, despite all these challenges we had an amazing 2021 and going into 2022 we did wonder how on earth we could match it, but we continued our very popular collaboration with the designer and humanitarian, India Hicks. With her, we developed a special-edition tote bag in Prince of Wales check for the Prince’s Trust, for its International Women’s Day initiative. It proved very popular and enabled us to make a really chunky contribution to this amazing charity which was a highlight of the year. We also enjoyed continued strong growth, which kept us very busy.

For us, this year is all about continuing to reach more people and building our brand. We’ve been asking our customers a lot of questions recently about what they want us to deliver and establishing

This year, Tusting is releasing a new collection of younger, brighter and more playful bags, to complement its range of timeless styles

TIMELINE

1875

Tusting is originally founded as a leather tannery to serve the burgeoning Northampton shoemaking trade

1919

A new, state-of-the-art tannery is built to keep ahead in an increasingly buoyant and competitive British tanning industry

1990

The fifth generation takes control and diversifies into making leather goods, creating the first Tusting branded bag

2000

Commissioned by Ralph Lauren to create leather bags for LFW, validating Tusting’s reputation as one of the finest makers in the country

2021

The Duchess of Cambridge carries a Tusting Mini Holly bag on her first engagement after a long summer break

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‘THIS YEAR IS ALL ABOUT CONTINUING TO REACH MORE PEOPLE AND BUILDING OUR BRAND’ what they already value most about our offer. We’ve got that bank of data guiding us, have invested heavily in our creative direction, and developed some exciting new additions to our range, so that is our key activity for this spring.

We’ve also got new products coming along that are younger, brighter and more playful, while being even better quality, which is an exciting step-change in our development. We’re looking forward to another challenging but rewarding year.’

Gillian Tusting, Head of Brand

DID YOU KNOW?

1

Alistair Tusting, Managing Director, is the fifth generation of the family to run the business founded by his great, great grandfather.

2

Alistair’s father, John, took over the family business when he was just 22, while still studying for his degree at Cambridge, an hour’s drive from the tannery.

3 4

Tusting has developed the luggage range for all the Aston Martin production models since the AM7.

The company created the first ever ‘phone-charging tote bag’ in association with Vodafone and designer Richard Nicoll, which launched at his London Fashion Week show in February 2012.

5

Tusting creates bespoke customisations of its bags.

Unusual requests have included non-leather handles for someone with a leather allergy and pockets for bullet-proof Kevlar panels for a private investigator.

TUSTING The Tannery Warehouse 29-31 Olney Road, Lavendon, Olney, Buckinghamshire MK46 4EU +44 (0)1234 712266 tusting.co.uk tusting

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GBB 2023 —— ACTIVISM

theLIST

Eight Eco-Activists to Get Behind CLOVER HOGAN, climate activist and founder of Force of Nature, chooses the people making an impact

Aneesa, 25, tells stories of environmental injustice through graphic design. She is senior comms officer at Oil Change International, working to kick the fossil fuel industry out of climate policymaking and to protect communities on the frontline. @aneesa.khan95

2

DAZE AGHAJI

Focusing on regenerative cultures, intersectionality, social justice and youth political engagement, Daze, 21, is creative director at Earthrise Studio, artist-in-residence at Phytology at the Bethnal Green nature reserve, and contributes to Sky TV’s climate show. @dazeaghaji

3

DR MYAROSE CRAIG

Mya-Rose, 20, began her birdwatching blog Birdgirl aged 11, and at 17 became the youngest person to see half the birds in the world.

In 2021, she won Young Conservationist of the Year at the Birders’ Choice Awards. @birdgirluk

4

ANJALIRAMAN MIDDLETON

Anjali, 18, is cofounder of Choked Up, the London-based campaign to highlight how deprived areas and communities of colour are affected by air pollution. A hundred medics signed its letter calling for action. @anjali_lrm

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Aneesa Khan, Daze Aghaji, Ellen Miles, Mya-Rose Craig and Domi Palmer

5

FATIMAZAHRA IBRAHIM

Climate and social justice activist Fatima, 27, is co-executive director of Green New Deal UK. The movement was launched in 2021 with the aim of disrupting political systems until politicians have to act. @fortuashla

6

ELLEN MILES

In 2020, Urban Greening Activist Ellen, 25, founded Nature is a Human Right, the campaign for the UN to recognise daily exposure to green space as a universal right. Her 2022 anthology, Nature is a Human Right, is a manifesto for the cause. @octaviachill

7

NOGA LEVYRAPOPORT

Noga, 21, volunteers with the UK Student Climate Network and organises marches and events to demand urgent climate action. She’s been named as one of Forbes’s Top 100 UK environmentalists. @noga_LR

8

DOMINIQUE PALMER

Starting with the School Strike for Climate Change, Domi, 23, now organises with Fridays for Future International.

She’s the launch coordinator for Climate Live and spoke at the 2019 UN Climate Change Conference. @domipalmer

TWITTER HANDLES. PHOTOS: © SERENA BROWN; © MATT JARVIS; © BECCA HAYDU; © ISSEY GLADSTON

1

ANEESA KHAN

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UV UV WX YZ YZ

GBB 2023

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 330 THE WHITE COMPANY 332

WILDABOUT FLOWERS 334 YARDLEY 336

YOUTH & EARTH 338

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GBB 2023 —— V

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The ‘Made In Kenya’ collection puts upcycling and global textile waste on the agenda

‘S

ince 2010, Vivienne Westwood has been producing an accessories line in Kenya thanks to a collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre – a joint agency of the United Nations and the World Trade Organisation – which currently supports artisans from African communities. These accessories have been manufactured since 2015 through Artisan Fashion, in East Africa, which specialises in high-end pieces made by community groups of craftspeople.

Kenya is a major importer of secondhand clothes that are sold at

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DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Vivienne Westwood was a primary school teacher before she moved to London and met Malcolm McLaren.

dedicated Mitumba markets, where clothes are sold in bundles. When developing the Autumn-Winter 2022 ‘Made in Kenya’ collection, Vivienne Westwood and Artisan Fashion looked at these clothes, which often end up as waste, and repurposed them as raw materials.

The collection also uses many other recycled materials: brass, aluminium, bottle caps, coffee sacks, wood and glass, and by-products such as palm and cow horn. This fosters the creation of local supply chains of upcycled materials and draws attention to the importance of reusing waste.

The hardware used to finish the accessories are handcrafted by Rangau Designers, a team of brass artisans in Nairobi. The hardware they create is crafted from recycled taps, padlocks, scrap car and fridge parts into Westwood orbs, pendants, parrot clips and sliders.

Together with the support of Artisan Fashion, the Rangau Designers have produced over 13,000 pieces for Vivienne Westwood. The community has been able to provide stable employment to 25 artisans throughout the year who are now able to secure consistent income for their families.

Taking small steps, Westwood works with Artisan Fashion towards collections that not only place people, communities and artisanal skill development at their centre, but also look to create accessories in the most conscious way possible, cultivating the circular economies that are vital for the fashion industry to be truly responsible for its impact on the planet.’

Between 1971 and 1976, their boutique operated under the names Let it Rock, Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die, Sex, and Seditionaries, before being reinvented as Worlds End in 1979, a title the store still holds today.

3

In the mid-70s, Westwood and McLaren’s punk clientele were sometimes accompanied from Sloane Square underground station to Worlds End by police escort.

4 5

Bella Freud, Chrissie Hynde and Alan Jones all worked there as shop assistants.

Vivienne Westwood is dedicated to crafting more conscious collections, exemplified by its work with Artisan Fashion to create upcycled accessories

Vivienne’s sustainability motto is: ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last’.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 44 Conduit Street London W1S 2YL +44 (0)20 7439 1109 viviennewestwood.com viviennewestwood

Robin MacAndrew, Managing Director of Artisan Fashion

TIMELINE

1971

Vivienne Westwood begins designing with her partner Malcolm McLaren in London, using the shop at 430 Kings Road to showcase ideas

1981

The designer showcases her first Autumn/Winter catwalk collection, entitled ‘Pirate’, at London’s Olympia, to great acclaim

1989

Vivienne meets Andreas Kronthaler who would become her husband, long-time design partner and the brand’s Creative Director

2004

The V&A hosts a Vivienne Westwood retrospective celebrating 34 years in fashion – the largest ever exhibition devoted to a living fashion designer

2006-2007

Vivienne is appointed DBE by Elizabeth II for her contribution to fashion and awarded Outstanding Achievement in Fashion at British Fashion Awards

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GBB 2023 —— W

THE WHITE COMPANY

Impeccably stylish, beautifully designed lifestyle products for every day

‘O

our brand’s story began just over 28 years ago.

Nick, my then boyfriend and now husband, was moving into his first home.

He was working incredibly hard setting up his business and asked if I could help him find the basics.

I thought it would be simple, but my shopping trip was a disaster. I was completely overwhelmed by colour and pattern, and quickly realised it wasn’t going to be easy.

The lightbulb moment came at dinner with my sister-in-law.

We all agreed, “wouldn’t it be great if there was a company that just sold lovely white pieces that were both beautifully designed and affordable.” Even after all the challenges of the past couple of years, our ethos remains the same – especially as thanks to the pandemic, our homes have to work even harder.

For me, the real beauty of white is that it’s classic, yet modern.

It creates a great canvas to build on – and it also works beautifully with colour. I have always loved the inherent calm that comes with a white and neutral palette. There is a magical and almost spa-like quality it creates when used in the right way. And after all we’ve been through it feels more relevant than ever.

Post-pandemic, it is no longer enough for our homes to just work practically, or to simply look stylish,

Chrissie’s passion for white homewares has seen The White Company go from strength to strength for almost 30 years

TIMELINE

1994

The brand is founded

by Chrissie Rucker OBE as a 12-page mail-order brochure focusing on stylish, white homeware

1997

The birth of Chrissie’s first child inspires the launch of The Little White Company, with clothes and accessories for kids

2010

Chrissie is awarded an MBE for her Service to the Retail Industry by Queen Elizabeth II

2014

The White Heart Foundation, currently working with The Prince’s Trust, St Mungo’s and Samaritans, is founded

2018

Chrissie receives an OBE and the Veuve Clicquot Tribute Award, recognising her achievements in retail

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‘IT’S BEEN WONDERFUL TO SEE ALL OUR STORES RE-OPEN AND TRADE POSITIVELY AGAIN… WE’RE REALLY EXCITED ABOUT THE FUTURE’ they need a feel-good factor – a sense of everyday comfort and happiness.

I’m so proud of how our team have navigated the incredible challenges of the pandemic and it’s been wonderful to see all our stores re-open and trade positively once again.

We’re really excited about the future with new products in the pipeline, sustainability firmly front of mind and our continued international expansion.’

Chrissie Rucker OBE, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1

The brand was the first British retailer certified by The Good Cashmere Standard, with all of its cashmere clothing and accessories GCS-certified since 2020.

2 3 4

For The Love of White by Chrissie Rucker OBE was the UK’s bestselling interior design book in 2020.

The brand’s top-selling fragrance, Blanc, won Best Fragrance at the prestigious British Society of Perfumers Awards in 2013.

In 2022, The White Company’s launched its first collaboration with designer and illustrator Giles Deacon, which featured hand-drawn prints on the brand’s nightwear.

5

Chrissie is founding patron of the #ChangeAGirlsLife campaign in aid of Women Supporting Women at The Prince’s Trust.

THE WHITE COMPANY 2 Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane London W12 7FR +44 (0)203 7589222 thewhitecompany.com thewhitecompany

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GBB 2023 —— W

WILDABOUT

The floral design company spreading joy with its innovative installations

‘W

e love to think outside the box when it comes to flowers.

Our USP has always been installations and we do a lot of events. We work mostly in the private market – such as dinners in people’s houses, birthdays, bar mitzvahs and weddings. Then we also work in the luxury corporate market. We recently did a beautiful event in private apartments in Bond Street plus Christmas installations for both a hotel in Sorrento and the Maddox Gallery, Gstaad, which we do annually. No two days are ever the same.

We do very diverse work.

There have been challenges – we had to close our shop in Clerkenwell and we also had the overheads of a 5,000 sq/ft studio in Battersea to contend with. But 2022 was a really good year and we are starting to get back on our feet.

Lots of companies in the events industry went under during the pandemic. We are so proud that we made it through and came out stronger than ever. We love our work and are super passionate about what we do.

We don’t know what is going to happen with the economy next year. Staffing is currently difficult particularly with the high demand work and the lack of supply. But I am just focusing on providing a good service at every event we do and keeping my clients happy. It’s all about service, the product and, for us, extra details.

We want to continue to grow within the luxury market and have more quality work. We expect more collaborations this year, too, and they often happen quite fast. Lots of exciting opportunities tend to come our way. However, what this year holds I am yet to know – but I’m sure there will be many exciting twists and turns as there always is.’

‘NO TWO DAYS ARE EVER THE SAME. WE DO

Leanne Roberts-Hewitt, Managing Director

VERY DIVERSE WORK’

TIMELINE

2007

Wildabout is founded with a first shop in Clerkenwell

2015

The brand opens a studio in Battersea to focus on events

2019

Awarded ‘Best in Show’ at Chelsea in Bloom for its client Hackett

2020

Walpole names Wildabout in its Power List 2020 as ‘Heroes’

2021

Wildabout wins Best Floral Designer at the RSVP/ BrideLux Awards

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Wildabout is known for its joyful floral installations

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

Wildabout adores weddings – they are its favourite events to work on.

During the pandemic, the brand installed a rainbow heart outside Chelsea & Westminster Hospital as a thank you for their incredible work.

3 4 5

Wildabout uses a mixture of silk and fresh flowers in its installations for maximum impact.

The brand is famous for its Christmas installations at the Maddox Gallery, Gstaad.

Wildabout was at the forefront of the installation craze in London – some of its clients have been installing outside features for years.

WILDABOUT 70 Silverthorne Road London SW8 3HE +44 (0)20 3794 7487 wildabout.co.uk wildaboutflower

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GBB 2023 —— Y

YARDLEY LONDON

Delivering affordable British luxury fragrance, bath and body products since 1770

‘T

he first thing our customers associate with Yardley is our long-established British heritage. The top three elements that come up in research are heritage, quality and trust. Customers look for that reassurance from a brand in times of instability, and brands with such strong credentials are those that survive recessions.

We remain firmly in the affordable luxury market for fragrance, bath and body products, the majority of which are Britishmade. Today’s consumers are looking for natural content, and we have a high level in all our products.

Our eau de toilettes are 94 percent natural, but we only charge around £17 for them, as opposed to £65 by competitors claiming similar natural content. We’ve improved the quality of our ingredients, sourcing sustainably where possible, including sustainable palm oil for soap and shea butter for our bath and body products. Our Fig & Juniper handwash won a gold award for Best Natural Product from the Beauty Bible.

Over the past five years, we’ve broadened the brand’s appeal to more demographics. The core is a 40-plus female, but as a result of launching contemporary fragrances, promoting the emotional benefits during the pandemic, our data shows that 25-plus females are now buying, too. Fragrance launches such as Bluebell & Sweet Pea and Magnolia & Fig have helped attract this younger consumer, and we’ve

Yardley London has been turning floral scents into popular soaps and perfumes for centuries

TIMELINE

1770

The Cleaver family founds what is today Yardley London, becoming one of the most successful soap and perfumery brands in the world

1850s

Under the ownership of Charles Yardley, Yardley & Statham is chosen to exhibit at the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park

1905

Yardley & Co opens a factory in Carpenters Road in Stratford, East London followed by a first store at 8 New Bond Street in 1910

1920s

Yardley is appointed Perfumers & Fine Soap Makers to the Prince of Wales, the first of six Royal Warrants including one from Queen Elizabeth II

2010

Acquired by Wipro Consumer Care.

Continues to work with the best perfumers to turn flower scents into award-winning fragrances

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‘HERITAGE, QUALITY AND TRUST. CONSUMERS LOOK FOR THAT REASSURANCE FROM A BRAND IN TIMES OF INSTABILITY’ increased our followers through social media activity, including launching on TikTok. Pixie Lott came on board as an influencer with broad appeal; even our older customers like to identify with a brand that’s moving with the times.

As well as continuing to grow in the UK, we’ve seen demand from export markets, with successful distributors in Europe, the Americas, Asia-Pacific markets and the Middle East. Yardley London has survived ups-and-downs for hundreds of years, and we’ll help our customers get through this one. It’s a wonderful, flourishing floral story.’

Karen Cullen, Head of Marketing, Supply & E-Commerce

DID YOU KNOW?

1

With London the epicentre of music and fashion during the Swinging Sixties, Yardley London was at the forefront of the cosmetics movement. Britain’s most successful model, Twiggy, fronted the advertising.

2

In 1972, Yardley sponsored the McLaren team in the Formula 1 Grand Prix, with cars emblazoned with gold Ys in support of Yardley London’s new range of men’s toiletries.

3 4

Linda Evangelista became the face of Yardley London in one of the biggest TV beauty campaigns of the 1990s.

Yardley London’s products are suitable for vegans, cruelty free and contain up to 97 percent natural ingredients. Plastic packaging is at least 30 percent post-consumer recycled, and cartons from FSC board.

5

Yardley London has proudly supported the cancer charity Look Good Feel Better for the past two years, with donations from its gift collection and botanical handwashes range.

YARDLEY OF LONDON LTD 102a High St, Eton Berkshire SL4 6AF +44 (0)1753 753420 yardleylondon.co.uk yardleylondonuk

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GBB 2023 —— Y

YOUTH & EARTH

Supplements for taking control of your health and supporting ageing well

‘I

turned 50 and created a brand that was essentially for me and my demographic, about improving healthspan along with lifespan; focusing on the molecules you lose naturally as you get older.

The business is growing, with record sales – 90 percent online, five percent from retailers such as Revital and five percent through practitioners.

We’ve got good products that prioritise energy and longevity; our return customer rate is around 60 percent. My main challenge is working out where and how to advertise to them.

I don’t like the term “antiageing”. It’s more about ageing well, redefining the process so that my story will be different from my parents’. I’ve been working out since I was 16, when the first gyms were opening in London and Men’s Health magazine launched. It was a new generation that was more interested in health.

I’m alright with being 50 as long as I’m healthy. Age doesn’t have to be a definer – you can start a hobby or business or go travelling at any age if you have your health. You’re not going to reverse the clock – you become more realistic as you get older! – but you want to slow it down. I’m saying you can carry on by preserving what you have.

I’m building a welltech platform, Optimally Me, to provide tools for people to self-discover their health and act preventatively. This also reflects my journey: believing I was bulletproof until, in my 40s, I discovered I wasn’t. Understanding

Youth & Earth’s powerful supplements give people the tools to redefine the ageing process

TIMELINE

2019

Youth & Earth is founded on 22 July by Edward van Harmelen, when he started to looking for ways to optimise his heath while ageing

2021

Youth & Earth receives four awards in the Wellbeing category of the Beauty Shortlist Awards, including three best supplement awards and Editor’s Choice

2022

Recipient of eight Beauty Shortlist Awards, including best wellbeing brand, five best supplement awards and Editor’s Choice

2022

Youth & Earth’s Spermidine capsules, which boost cellular renewal, receive the award for the best vitality supplement at the Attracta Beauty Awards

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‘I DON’T LIKE THE TERM “ANTI-AGEING”. IT’S MORE ABOUT AGEING WELL, REDEFINING THE PROCESS SO THAT MY STORY WILL BE DIFFERENT FROM MY PARENTS’ your health is power, and gives you more confidence. The process starts with a blood test – iron, cholesterol, blood sugar, hormones etc – benchmarked against 15 biomarkers.

A visual results heatmap comes with personalised recommendations from researchers, doctors and scientific experts. It’s a great way of monitoring the efficacy of the supplements or skin products you’re using. Everything we’re doing is in the forefront of change.’

Edward van Harmelen, founder

DID YOU KNOW?

1 2

It’s the age-related diseases that cause the real problems: the aches and pains that we face growing older, not age itself.

After 40, our NAD+ levels, crucial for DNA repair, decrease by 50 percent. Levels can be restored by taking Youth & Earth’s NMN which help turn nutrients into energy and regulate cellular functions.

3 4

Youth & Earth’s well-researched Spermidine activates autophagy, which is the process of triggering cells to renew and recycle.

Youth & Earth’s liposomal products skip being broken down in the stomach; this allows the body to absorb them 20 to 100 times more than conventional supplements..

5

A third of Caucasians lack the GSTM1 gene that produces and recycles glutathione in the body, making them more susceptible to toxins and heavy metals. Youth & Earth produces a Liposomal Glutathione supplement.

YOUTH & EARTH Huckletree West Mediaworks 191 Wood Lane London W12 7FP +44 (0)20 3997 7800 youthandearth.com youthandearth

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GBB 2023 —— INNOVATION

theLIST

Seven Ideas That Can Help Save the Planet It’s not all doom and gloom, says Springwise’s JAMES BIDWELL

5

Created by Australian technology firm Attentis, a network of sensors collects and delivers vital data, which has already improved local agriculture, utilities, and forest industries – as well as emergency responses to fires and floods. attentistechnology.com

2

More than 30 percent of US crops need bee pollination, making bee health essential for protecting the environment. Hi-tech hives created by Israeli company, Beewise, are equipped with sensors that monitor the health and activity of the bees inside while robots dispense sugar, medicine, and honey. beewise.ag

Autonomous robots collect seafloor litter

Using a combination of clever robotics and machine learning, a new system developed

by EU-funded SeaClear will be able to locate and remove marine debris more efficiently than ever before. seaclear-project.eu

3

6

Minecraft game teaches Gen-Z about climate change Finding a way to bring real-world lessons to gaming, digital education company, UK-located Skewb Climate, is making climate change action relevant, understandable, and actionable to a key audience group. skewbclimate.co.uk

Using rock dust to extract CO2 from the air

A new study by researchers at the University of Sheffield shows that adding basalt rock dust to soil could boost the soil’s ability to extract carbon dioxide from the air. sheffield.ac.uk

4

A methane-reducing additive for animal feed

Reducing methane emissions from agriculture is vital for keeping global warming below 2°C – so Dutch biosciences company Royal DSM has created a product to tackle the issue at its source. dsm.com

7

Producing ‘carbon negative’ cement

With cement production accounting for eight percent of global greenhouse gas emissions, a research team at the US University of Colorado, Boulder, has developed an alternative made using micro-algae. colorado.edu

Find all these ideas and many more at springwise.com, the leading global innovation intelligence platform for positive and sustainable change

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

1

AI-powered beehives protect the bee population

Network monitors environmental disasters in real-time

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1508 LONDON 342

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GBB 2023 —— 0

1508 LONDON

Transforming residential and hospitality properties across the globe

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PHOTOS: © TARAN WILKHU

‘O

ur creative, innovative culture is built around really understanding our clients; we don’t have a house style, because every project is different. We appreciate and understand everything from stark minimalism to maximalism, with a passion for interpreting our clients’ aspirations.

In 2022 we’ve worked on amazing projects like The OWO and One Grosvenor Square. We’ve focused on private clients too, finishing a 12,000 sq/ft Hampstead

DID YOU KNOW?

house that was a beautiful fusion of British classicism and Chinese history, and some significant family homes including a townhouse for an unbelievably creative client, laying an ombré stair runner that gradually changes colour over the fi vestorey town house.

We’ve worked on lots of hotels abroad: in Italy; The Four Seasons in America and Saudi Arabia; The Rosewood in Doha; an eco-resort in Napa Valley; and the Mandarin Oriental residences in Beverly Hills, the first new build in the Golden Triangle for 40 years. We’ve started working on the super-luxurious Cipriani residences in Miami, two projects in Taiwan and we’re looking at schemes in Vietnam.

For all our growth, we never forget that we design for people.

The company’s backbone is working with private clients, getting to understand their emotions when they enter a building. We try to be ego-less and help them realise their dream homes rather than push our own design ambitions on them.

British interior design is having a renaissance. We produce some wonderful architects and designers, so Britishness still holds a lot of weight internationally.

It helps that we have worldbeating developments in London, like Chelsea Barracks and the Raffles Residences at The OWO. I’m proud that the US looks to our little country for inspiration when it comes to quality and an outstanding level of detail and finesse.’

1

The name 1508 is inspired by the year in which the Pope was so impressed by Michelangelo’s perfect, freehand circle that he commissioned the unknown artist to paint the Sistine Chapel ceiling.

2 3 4

1508 London’s founding Victoria studio was the former postal sorting office for Queen Elizabeth II. 1508 London is designing interiors for the world’s largest superyacht, Njord.

1508 London is taking hospitality design to new heights with the opening of The Atmosphere Restaurant in the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

5

The company has grown so fast that it now employs 130 people worldwide, in London, Miami, Singapore, Dubai and São Paulo.

1508 LONDON 7 Howick Place London SW1P 1BB +44 (0)20 7802 3800 1508london.com 1508london

1508 London has worked on projects all over the world, and has offices in six global cities: London, Miami, Dubai, Singapore, Cannes and São Paulo

Partners: Stuart Horwood, Hamish Brown and Laura Lockwood

PHOTOS: © TARAN WILKHU

TIMELINE

1508

Michelangelo draws a perfect circle freehand, prompting Pope Julius II to commission him to paint the Sistine Chapel

2010

1508 London is established as a collective of architects and interior designers, led by three partners

2012

The second 1508 London office is set up in central London, in a converted Victorian postal office

2017-20

The company expands globally to Dubai, followed by opening a Singapore studio in 2020

2022

The Miami office opens, completing the Mandarin Oriental Residences Beverly Hills. Studios open in Cannes and São Paulo

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GBB 2023

Index A Annoushka Anya Hindmarch Araminta Campbell Ascot Asprey Atelier NM

F 24 26 28 30 32 34

B Barbour Berry Bros & Rudd Bioglan Beauty Collagen Bremont Brook + Wilde

44 46 50 52 54

C Cadogan Caroline Castigliano Chelsea Barracks Christys’ Hats Clive Christian Cole & Sons The Conran Shop Coombe Farm Organic Coze Crockett & Jones Crow and Jester

62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 84

D Dale Rogers Ammonite David Hunt Lighting Davidson Deirdre Dyson Dr Sebagh

86 88 90 92 94

E East London Parasol Co. Edward Green E.J. Churchill Ettinger

102 104 106 108

Fairfax & Favor Farrar & Tanner Favourbrook FBC London Fenwicks Fitzdares The Founding at Canada Water Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square

L 110 112 114 116 118 120 122 124

\

G The Glenturret GP & J Baker Guava & Gold

128 130 132

134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 156 158 160 162

I Iconic Luxury Hotels The Illustrated Jeweller

164 166

J Jamb John Bell & Croyden John Smedley Joseph Cheaney & Sons

172 174 176 180

K Kiki McDonough The Knightsbridge Estate

S 188 190 192 194 198

M Marian Boswall Landscape Architects Martin Kemp Design Molton Brown Mr & Mrs Smith Mulberry Musto

200 202 204 206 208 210

N

H HAI Hancocks Harvey Nichols Harwood Advisory Hay Hill Heath Heirlooms Linens Holland & Holland Holland Cooper The House of Bruar House of Colour Huntsmore

Lakes By YOO Last Drop Life Kitchens Linley Louise Bradley

182 184

Naim Audio Neal’s Yard Remedies New & Lingwood Nicholson Gin Nina Campbell No.3 Gin

218 220 224 226 228 230

O Octagon Developments onefinestay Oskia The OWO

232 234 238 240

244 246 248

R Really Wild Red Savannah Rhodium Riviere Rugs Robinson Pelham Rococo Rolls-Royce RSL

272 274 276 280 282 286 288 290 292 294 296 298 300

N Taylor Howes Theo Fennell Thomas Pink Thorp Interiors TM Lighting Tom Davies Tramp Troy London Tusting

304 306 308 310 312 320 322 324 326

V Vivienne Westwood

330

W

P Penhaligon’s Pragnell Prestat

Samuel Heath Sanderson Design Group Savile Row Scott Dunn The Shard Sims Hilditch Skydiamond The Sloane Club Stephen Webster St George St James Interiors Strathberry Sunspel

250 252 254 256 258 260 262 264

The White Company Wildabout Flowers

332 334

X Yardley Youth & Earth

336 338

0 1508 London

342

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heartbreaking.

In the UK, 5 million mattresses go to landfill every year. A heartbreaking waste we’ve never tolerated at Naturalmat.

Since 1999, from the banks of the river Exe in Devon, we’ve handcrafted wonderfully comfortable, natural, organic and sustainable beds and mattresses.

When your Naturalmat mattress reaches the end of its life, landfill is not an option. Instead, you’ll have three: Refurbish, Recycle, or Donate. We call it our Mattress for Life InitiativeTM. Proudly, the first of its kind in the UK. organic. local. sustainable.

NM1005 Country_Town_House FP 225x298mm.indd 1 Naturalmat.indd 1

London | Cotswolds | Devon

30/11/2022 12:17 09:50 30/11/2022

PUBLISHED BY

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