Great British & Irish Hotels - 2020

LIVING A BALANCED LIFE

£12.99

200 PERFECT PLACES TO STAY

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2020/21

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A FA M I LY S T O R Y

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Contents 172

Features 12

19

24

28

THE NEW NORMAL Fiona Duncan discovers how hotels have given back during lockdown, as the industry finds its mojo again STAYCATION SWAPS Don't fancy getting on a plane? Here's where to go a bit closer to home. By Holly Rubenstein SUBLIME SECLUSION Susan d'Arcy escapes the madding crowd with shepherds' huts and garden cottages LOOK WHO'S COOKING The celebrated hotel chefs well worth checking in for, picked

by Emma Love

Directory 32

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

46

THE WEST COUNTRY

50

Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire

58

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

68

THE HOME COUNTIES

43

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bibury Farm Barns; Harlyn Bay; The Bath Arms; Claridge’s

Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Hertfordshire / Kent / Sussex / Surrey

82 98

LONDON THE COTSWOLDS Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire

112

MID COUNTRY Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands

ON THE COVER The Newt in Somerset, thenewtinsomerset.com

120 EAST ANGLIA Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk

THE NORTH County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire

146 WALES & THE MARCHES 154

SCOTLAND

162

THE ISLAND OF IRELAND

170

PRIVATE HOUSES

176

INDEX

91

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in Great British & Irish Hotels is from the Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing £25). The annual competition showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. For more details visit lpoty.co.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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Editor’s Letter

154

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his is the eighth edition of our annual Great British and Irish Hotels guide, and while each previous compilation has been visually stunning, packed with absorbing features and filled with gorgeous places to stay, I have never felt as proud as I do of this year’s effort. There can hardly have been a more challenging year in which to produce a compendium of hot and happening hotels, and indeed there were times when we thought it would not – could not – happen in 2020.

The talented team at Country & Town House began work on the guide in the New Year. Then, of course, in late March lockdown came upon us. Hotels, normally used to buzz and bustle, fell empty and silent, their doors barred. It was a terrible time for the hospitality industry, for hotel aficionados, and to be lovingly writing about places that were in reality firmly shut, with no idea of when they might open again and how they would cope if they did.

And then there was light. The government announced that hotels could reopen, with Covid-19 precautions, from 4 July.

Albeit wounded, they were back in business (though many London hotels, particularly hard hit through lack of tourists and business guests, are yet to open) and so was our guide, put together by the team with amazing alacrity. I owe a huge debt to Holly Rubenstein and Emma Love, my stalwart co-writers, without whom the guide would not have been possible.

This year’s edition captures the current mood, with features on staycation swaps (the French Riviera for the Cornish Riviera or New Zealand for the Scottish Highlands, for example) on page 19, the best chefs worth checking in for (p28), and hotels that offer socially distanced seclusion in rooms ranging from wagons to spa lodges (p24). My own feature tells of the resilience and warmth of our hoteliers and how they have risen to the challenge of offering warm hospitality in a very different world (p12).

Our introductions to each region are full of tips from some of our favourite insiders, plus the hidden gems to see, do, eat and visit. Once again, the evocative images that represent the regions of the British Isles are the work of the talented winners of the Landscape Photographer of the Year awards.

We also include, as ever, a useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or FROM TOP: Moody Day at Kilt Rock, Mealt Falls, Isle of Skye, by Pawel Zygmunt for the Landscape Photographer of the Year awards; The Tudor family. I think you’ll agree that there really Farmhouse, Forest of Dean; Artist Residence Pimlico; The Pig at Brockenhurst has been no better time to book a hotel. n

110

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PHOTOS: ©PAWEL ZYGMUNT;

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CONTRIBUTORS

HOLLY RUBENSTEIN

First thing you booked after lockdown? A train from London to Provence, to reconnect with family who I’ve not seen since before lockdown. I’m envisaging long lunches bathed in that special Provençal golden sunlight.

Meal you’ll be going back Holly has the staycation for? Nothing beats the black destinations to cancel your flight for on p19 cod at the Japanese Grill at the Beaverbrook Hotel in Surrey.

To dine in such a gorgeous setting makes it even more special.

Your go-to staycation spot? Cornwall, in particular St Ives and Carbis Bay, really make me feel like I’m on a proper holiday. For a day trip, Arundel in West Sussex brings me joy every time I visit.

Favourite hotel memory? Staying at Casa Morada, a boutique hotel in Islamorada, Florida Keys. One afternoon, my then-boyfriend hired a yacht for a sunset sail. When we arrived back to shore, we were engaged.

SUSAN D’ARCY

First thing you booked after lockdown? I’ve already been to the brilliant Finca Cortesin resort in Spain. It was intense – like moving from black and white to technicolour.

It was worth lockdown to experience the childlike thrill of travelling again.

Meal you’ll be going back Escape the crowds with Susan’s best country retreats on p24 for? The spaghetti with pesto at the modest LaCantina SanFruttuoso on a secluded beach near Portofino epitomises Italy on a plate for me: joyfully at ease with elegant simplicity.

Your go-to staycation spot? Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Thank goodness I never went as a child – I’d have ended up as a geography teacher.

Favourite hotel memory? Sailing Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef on the Shore Thing live-aboard catamaran. Nothing can compete. with its five-star array of fish and the emotion of hearing whales sing.

EMMA LOVE

First thing you booked after lockdown? I’m hoping to go to one of the Greek islands at the end of the summer, possibly Santorini or Sifnos, which is known for its food.

Meal you’ll be going back for? I’m missing bowls of delicious pasta at my local Emma compiles the Italian restaurants Forza Win hotel chefs making every and Artusi, both in Peckham. stay delicious on p28 I’ve been using their takeaway service throughout lockdown, but I can’t wait for them to re-open.

Your go-to staycation spot? Devon, Cornwall, Dorset...

Essentially, anywhere by the coast where I can see the sea.

Favourite hotel memory? A couple of my favourite Christmases have been spent at Dormy House with my mum. There were crackling log fires, brisk walks, carol singers – and, importantly, someone else cooking lunch on Christmas Day.

SOFIA TINDALL

First thing you booked after lockdown? The Three Daggers in Edington: a gastro pub with the most amazing farm shop to browse in after lunch.

Meal you’ll be going back for? The only meal that truly matters to me is Discover hidden gems from brunch, so it’ll be incredible, around the country with Sofia’s in-depth guides farm-fresh eggs florentine at Barnsley House in the Cotswolds (with a bucket of Crémant on the side).

Your go-to staycation spot? Anywhere in the countryside around Marlborough or Lacock. I grew up in Wiltshire and going back there is an instant soul-soother.

Favourite hotel memory? An epic family wedding in a Scottish castle a few years ago. The glacial winter setting was beautiful, but what I really loved was being surrounded by my favourite people.

Editor Fiona Duncan Editorial Director Lucy Cleland Managing Editor Amy Wakeham Features Assistant & Sub Editor Sofia Tindall Copy Writers Emma Love, Holly Rubenstein Sub Editor Belinda Bamber Editorial & Production Assistant Alex Bloom-Davis Property & Marketing Associate Director Gemma Cowley Advertising Sales Director Ellie Rix Senior Account Manager Pandora Lewis Sales Manager Olivia Milligan Digital Manager Adam Dean Creative Direction & Production Parm Bhamra Production Designer Samuel Thomas Online Editor Rebecca Cox Online Writer Ellie Smith Online Assistant Daniella Saunders Technical Manager Hannah Johnson Finance Controller Lauren Hartley Finance Director Jill Newey Group Publishing Director Tia Graham Managing Director Jeremy Isaac Copyright © 2020/21 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. Country & Town House, Studio 2, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL, +44 (0)20 7384 9011.

countryandtownhouse.co.uk

Hotel room prices are correct at time of going to press and are based on a double room rate with breakfast included unless otherwise stated. All information was correct at the time of going to press but could be subject to change due to unforeseeable circumstances.

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The New Normal Our heroic hoteliers have shown their resilience and determination over the challenging past few months – and we salute them, says Fiona Duncan

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

C

oncert halls are built to ring out with music, shops to sell, planes to fly, and restaurants, pubs and hotels to welcome and nurture their guests with good food and spoiling comfort. Last March they all – like so much else – fell empty and silent, stranded like beached whales. I didn’t much mind about the planes and the silent skies that ensued, I must admit, but the rest has left a gaping hole in our lives. While the hospitality industry has been allowed to start up again as best it may, British cultural life is still mostly on hold.

Our hotels are back though, thank god, and we salute them. During the spring lockdown I talked to many of the owners and managers of the lovely places described in this guide and I’ve been continually impressed by their determination to win through in the face of huge problems, both financial and practical: ‘to take arms against a sea of troubles,’ as Hamlet famously declaims, ‘and by opposing end them.’

When the pandemic first hit, owners were naturally plunged into gloom. How could their

ABOVE & BELOW: Staff get used to the new normal at Hotel Tresanton; al fresco dining at Hotel Endsleigh

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

hotels operate with physical distancing, masks and thermometers when they are all about cosy corners and conviviality? How to trade profitably with fewer guests at tables spaced out like islands in the Pacific?

Soon, however, I sensed a positive, can-do approach, despite the uncertainty about what lies ahead. ‘We are unsure,’ Dan Brod, co-owner of the Beckford Arms (beckfordarms.com), Talbot Inn (talbotinn.com) and Lord Poulett Arms (lordpoulettarms.com) told me in June, ‘how our public will react. A pint in the garden is one thing, but will our guests want to have a long lingering lunch, which is really what pays the bills, inside?’ However, he is hopeful. ‘I truly believe that humans need hospitality and this need has to be balanced with the actual Covid risks and the risks to the rural economy. So I am optimistic, but nervous.’

‘I’m an eternal optimist,’ echoes international hotelier Gordon Campbell Grey, now based back in his beloved Scotland, at his Pierhouse Hotel in Port Appin on the shores of Loch Linnhe (pierhousehotel. co.uk). ‘One thing is for certain, though: standards must be sky high. We need to tempt back our wary customers. “Wow,” they must say, “that lobster soufflé was worth risking my life for.’’’

Olga Polizzi agrees. At her hotels Endsleigh (hotelendsleigh.com) and Tresanton (tresanton.com), the menu may be shorter but the food is just as good, if not better. She, like her brother Rocco Forte, has made no bones about the extent of the disaster that has engulfed everyone in the hospitality industry as well as the wider economy, but she is determined to fight on with her usual panache. ‘When we open our doors, there will be champagne on the house for everyone,’ she told me.

No one has been idle during The Great Pause.

‘We did a lot of sunbathing, to be sure,’ admit

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

FROM ABOVE: The Beckford Arms is located in the Fonthill Estate’s beautiful parkland in Wiltshire; Dan Brod of The Beckford Arms, Talbot Inn and Lord Poulett Inn; dining outside is the new normal

Simon and Wendy Bennett of Augill Castle (stayinacastle.com), ‘but we’ve also painted, weeded, planned and kept up morale and as a result we and the castle have never looked so good.’ In Berkshire’s The Pheasant Inn (thepheasant-inn.co.uk), young Jack Greenall has created two new super-luxe bedrooms and extended the kitchen. And at Calcot in the Cotswolds (calcot.co), a multi-purpose hotel designed for weddings, conferences, families and couples alike, Richard Ball and his staff had ‘never been so busy’ as during the spring lockdown. In order to prepare for the new normal, they turned their redundant wedding and conference barn into a spacious wellness centre and moved staff offices to make way for a socially distanced kids’ club.

At the Fife Arms in Braemar (fifearms.com), a team of ghillies was introduced to help guests get the most out of the great outdoors. Space is the new luxury, and country hotels started redefining themselves as safe havens. ‘We have five acres per guest, even when full,’ states Heckfield Place of its 438-acre estate (heckfieldplace.com).

All the hoteliers I spoke to were honest about the blow Covid has delivered them but enthusiastic about the future in equal measure. It was inspiring to listen to James and Fiona Hill, who have lovingly built up Hampton Manor in the Midlands, with its Michelinstarred Peels Restaurant, from scratch (hamptonmanor.com).

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‘The crisis came at a tremendously difficult time for our business,’ they told me. ‘We were entering the most profitable part of the year and were midway through a building project for our new restaurant with rooms around our Victorian walled garden. We had been dreaming of opening the immersive dining experience in the summer and never imagined anything like this would strike.

‘We met the situation with a very fast pivot and began delivering our restaurant food in a box: Peel’s on Wheels. The threecourse meal has been a huge hit and for every box purchased we cooked a meal for someone in our community in isolation.

It has been really moving to see hundreds of meals reach the elderly and vulnerable through this initiative and it has captured the hearts and minds of our team.’

Many other hoteliers have reached out to their communities during lockdown. In London, Claridge’s hosted 40 NHS staff in its £650-a-night rooms, while I have regularly picked heaps of vegetables from the kitchen garden of my local Pig hotel for our nearest food bank. In turn, Paul Ainsworth’s

FROM ABOVE: Andrew, one of the new team of ghillies at the Fife Arms; Claridge’s put up NHS workers during the early Covid crisis; picking vegetables for food banks from the garden of The Pig – at Brockenhurst

PHOTOS: MICHELLE WU

Padstow Townhouse (paul-ainsworth.co.uk) has produced nearly 3,000 meals for vulnerable locals and NHS workers. These are just three of many examples of food and hospitality being given for free by our hotel heroes.

All the best hoteliers, however large or small their properties, have brainstormed, number-crunched and dreamed up creative ideas to make the new normal work. Their greatest challenge is voiced by Olga Polizzi.

‘The last thing we want,’ she says, ‘is for our guests to feel as if they are in a hospital.

But they do need to feel in safe hands.’

Robin Hutson is also convinced that atmosphere is as important as hygiene.

‘There has to be an element of trust that we will keep both our guests and our staff completely safe, but at the same time keep the atmosphere alive,’ he says. It’s a tightrope every hotelier will have to walk. I think they are up for the challenge. n

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Staycation Swaps

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Exchange your global getaway for a holiday much closer to home, says Holly Rubenstein

Don’t gallop away; there’s adventures to be had right here in the UK, too

W

hether you’re looking for a city break, a wilderness escape, a country retreat or a trip to the seaside, Britain is blessed with destinations to rival some of the world’s most desirable hotspots. It’s time to embrace what we have on our doorstep and celebrate the year of the great British staycation.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

SWAP THE FRENCH RIVIERA FOR THE...

Who needs to travel to the Med when it’s possible to experience the palm-fringed white sand beaches, glittering turquoise seas and fine fresh seafood of the Cornish riviera?

Cornwall’s photogenic seafront fishing villages offer boundless charm. None more so than Mousehole, with its narrow, cobbled streets, brimming with buzzing restaurants and galleries, that wind down to the sheltered harbour with boats bobbing in the breeze. It’s no wonder Welsh poet Dylan Thomas described it in the '30s as ‘the loveliest village in England’. The tribute still holds true today.

Stay at The Old Coastguard (oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk), a sun-dappled spot with 14 sumptuous bedrooms that peer out to sea over palms and splashes of vivid hydrangeas.

The sophistication of St Tropez is captured at The Scarlet (scarlethotel.co.uk), an adults-only eco getaway on Cornwall’s north coast, overlooking Mawgan Porth’s sandy bay, and down the road from Padstow, home to Rick Stein’s culinary empire and to Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth at Number 6.

What’s more, The Scarlet’s sea vistas are some of Cornwall’s best, whether you’re catching them from the spectacular, stone-lined, outdoor swimming pool or from the al fresco hot tubs-with-a-view. Interior walls are lined with paintings by local artists, no doubt inspired by the region’s mesmerising quality of light, which has invigorated creatives here for decades.

In St Ives, art enthusiasts can’t miss Porthminster Gallery, housed in a converted pilchard press, or the renowned Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. The Tate St Ives’ eclectic collections are a must-see on the seafront.

There’s a taster of Cap d’Antibes at Carbis Bay, with its award-winning, golden sand, bathing beach surrounded by subtropical scenery. For ultimate privacy, the beach houses at Carbis Bay Hotel (carbisbayhotel.co.uk) are big enough to sleep a family of four and just a frisbee’s throw from the beach.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mousehole is a quintessential Cornish fishing village, with a long and fascinating history; The Scarlet Hotel has views over Mawgan Porth Bay; Breeze Catching the Waves by Jenny Hirst; beach houses at Carbis Bay Hotel are practically on the sand; visitors at St Ives’ Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden; sea vistas at The Old Coastguard

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; PAUL MASSEY; MARTIN KAUFMANN

CORNISH RIVIER A

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SWAP NEW ZEALAND FOR THE...

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; PAUL MASSEY; MARTIN KAUFMANN

SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS If you’re dreaming of epic scenery and landscapes with high drama, you can save the air miles and the environment by trading New Zealand for the wilds of the Scottish Highlands.

This breathtaking region, roughly the same size as Belgium, is home to Britain’s largest national park, the Cairngorms, plus Britain’s highest mountain, towering Ben Nevis, and one of Britain most famous lakes (with its resident monster), Loch Ness. Fairytale castles, world-class malts and boundless wildlife make it a must for any traveller’s bucket list.

Stay at The Torridon (thetorridon.com) in Wester Ross, one of the UK’s most remote hotels. Set amid sprawling parkland with a backdrop of mountains and forest, its romantic turrets overlook the tranquil shores of Loch Torridon. Walk for miles through rugged wilderness, go gorge scrambling in pristine waters or hike to the summit of a Munro. Its 18 rooms can be hired on an exclusive basis, too.

For a more boutique feel, deep in the Cairngorms within a 4000-acre estate, is Killiehuntly, a pretty 17th-century farmhouse (killiehuntly.scot). With four stylish bedrooms designed with minimalist Scandi-Scottish interiors, along with a bothy and a cottage in the grounds, it’s a spot to swoon over.

(For the duration of 2020, all properties will be available for private hire only.)

The opulent Glenfeshie Lodge dates back to the 1880s and once played host to Queen Victoria (glenfeshie.scot). The lodge is reached by a winding single-track road through a pine forest, and framed by mountains and the salmon-rich River Feshie. Here, the restorative power of nature feels palpable.

So magnificent is the scenery that Edwin Landseer’s famous painting, The Monarch of the Glen, is said to originate from here. Up to 12 guests can stay in the Lodge on a fully catered basis, and its resident gamekeepers can organise a variety of outdoors activities, including its famous pony picnics.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Cairngorms National Park is wild and beautiful; find a cottage to call your own for the weekend at Killiehuntly; or stay in one of the farmhouse’s Scandi-chic rooms; The Torridon stands on the shores of remote Loch Torridon; stag spotting is surprisingly easy in the Highlands; Glenfeshie Lodge is framed by forests and mountains

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

SWAP CHAMPAGNE FOR...

WEST SUSSEX

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The South Downs’ chalk-rich soil has been compared to Champagne’s; stay at The Spread Eagle, one of the country’s oldest coaching inns; you’ll find vineyards galore in this sunny nook of southern England; taste award-winning English sparkling wine at the Nyetimber estate; then retreat to Ockenden Manor to soothe a sore head

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

The heartland of the UK’s wine industry, West Sussex is home to three quarters of England’s 8,600 acres of vines.

Seventy per cent of the fruits of these vineyards go into making the acclaimed sparkling wine that frequently trumps champagne in blind tastings.

The key to English sparkling wine’s world-class quality is its location. The picturesque rolling hills of the South Downs National Park have the same chalk-rich soil as the famous Champagne region of France. Head here for vineyard tours and tastings in a peaceful bucolic setting, just an hour and a half’s drive from central London.

While there, be sure to stop at the scenic Nyetimber estate in West Chiltington on one of its open days, where tastings of its award-winning sparkling wine are held in its striking medieval barn (nyetimber.com).

High on the South Downs is newcomer Rathfinny, which is set to become England’s largest vineyard, with 400 of its 600 acres under cultivation (rathfinnyestate. com). Other stops should include Ridgeview, Bolney Wine Estate, and Breaky Bottom vineyards.

Stay at The Spread Eagle in the pretty market town of Midhurst (hshotels.co.uk/spread-eagle). It’s one of England’s oldest coaching inns and dates back to 1430. Alternatively, you can retreat to ivy-clad Ockenden Manor in Cuckfield (hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor), for countryside views, fine dining and the beautiful spa with its flotation tank and eight treatment rooms. Sounds like the perfect hangover cure.

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SWAP ROME FOR...

BATH

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

Ancient history and Georgian elegance sit comfortably side-by-side in majestic Bath, the UK’s only city to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bath has been a wellness destination for millennia, thanks to its unique natural thermal springs. A trip to the city isn’t complete without a visit to the awe-inspiring ancient Roman baths, dating back to AD43. These days, the therapeutic hot waters can be experienced down the road at the thoroughly modern Thermae Bath Spa (thermaebathspa.com), with its showstopping open-rooftop pool taking in swooping 360-degree views of the city.

Just a short walk away is The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa (royalcrescent.co.uk), a jewel in the centre of Bath’s iconic, honey-hued Royal Crescent. It’s one of the UK’s greatest examples of Georgian architecture, straight from the pages of Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Check into luxe five-star suites with private terraces overlooking gloriously green gardens and don’t miss afternoon tea, which attracts guests from around the world.

If you fancy something a little more low-key, charming Broad St Townhouse (butcombe.com) is a boutique retreat in the heart of the historic quarter.

It’s Grade II listed and retains many of its original architectural elements, plus its own distinctive sense of style. Next door is sister venue The Pig & Fiddle, a newly refurbished pub with a tempting menu of pub classics done with a twist. n

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Bath’s 1774 Pulteney Bridge straddles the River Avon; the magnificent 2,000-year-old Roman baths; try the sumptuous tea at The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa; or enjoy an al fresco meal in its gardens; pause for coffee at Broad St Townhouse’s cafe; or book into one of its seductively furnished bedrooms

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Sublime Seclusion Longing to go away but worried about social distancing? Have no fear, says Susan d’Arcy, these clever offerings keep you far from the madding crowd

ABOVE & BELOW: The sweeping views over Harlyn Bay, north Cornwall; hide away in one of The Pig at Harlyn Bay’s new shepherd huts

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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here was a time when, if you were staying in an outbuilding rather than the main hotel, you would hang your head in shame and feel like the poor relative in a Jane Austen novel. Back then the mantra was ‘see and be seen’. These days, a connection to nature, peace and privacy are the prerequisites of luxury, so as the evening draws to an end it is with pride that you casually mention – loud enough for all to hear – that you’re off to your garden wagon.

Yes really, your garden wagon. Forget sheds or cabins – wagons are the new chic retreat. For the record, I’ve jumped on a few bandwagons in the past, but the garden variety remained a mystery to me until the opening of The Pig at Harlyn Bay (thepighotel.com), the Pig group’s new Cornish outpost. Since then its four spectacularly souped-up ‘wagons’ have proved phenomenally popular and are booked out months ahead. Robin Hutson, chief executive of the group, worked on the wagons’ design with Plankbridge (the Rolls-Royce of shepherd’s huts) and describes them as ‘sheds on steroids’.

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Squirrelled away in the hotel’s gardens, overlooking tumbles of fields, they are huge and ooze rustic charm, with reclaimed timber walls, country textures, snuggle-down sofas and cosy log burners as well as main-house mod cons such as king-sized beds, monsoon showers and freestanding baths. For hardy adventurers, there even al fresco showers too.

If you’re after something no less private but more conventionally pampering, Gilpin Hotel in Windermere (thegilpin.co.uk) unveils five swanky Spa Lodge 100s this year. Set in walled gardens, the lush interiors feature living walls of woodland plants for a lazy person’s forest bathing. Guests can while away the hours on infrared lounge beds and state-of-the-art Japanese massage chairs. The latter have settings for pressure that’s as light as a feather or as loaded as a Russian wrestler, and with no therapist present you can give yourself permission to relax (e.g. sleep, e.g. snore), safe in the knowledge that what happens in the chair stays in the chair.

Also close to Windermere’s shores, the newly revitalised Linthwaite House (leeucollection.com) has six Scandi-chic Lake Suites, with spectacular views of – take a wild guess – yes, the lake, split between two tucked-away buildings. The ideal scenario is to take over three for your very own social bubble and let Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, who runs Henrock (henrock.co.uk), the hotel’s fabulous restaurant, provide the gourmet TLC. Another irresistible northern beauty, handy for the tourist honeypots of the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales but offering splendid isolation when the crowds bring on claustrophobia, is the new Brownber House (brownber.co.uk) in Kirkby Stephen. The four-bedroom farmhouse is in the estate grounds of Grade II-listed Brownber Hall, a hotel that’s gained cult following since opening in 2017. If the cool vibe, Vanessa Arbuthnott fabrics and vintage furniture remind you of Soho House, that’s because its mood board has been curated by the same interior designer, Georgina Rose.

FROM ABOVE: Relax and soothe your stresses away at the Gilpin Hotel in Windermere; restore your spirits in Linthwaite House’s new Lake Suites; get happily lost in The Eastbury’s gardens; settle into Brownber House in Kirkby Stephen

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

For a town and country combo, summer 2020 provided two sparkling new solutions.

The Eastbury (theeastburyhotel.co.uk) is an early Georgian gentleman’s residence in Sherborne, a sleepy market town enveloped in Dorset’s beautiful Blackmore Vale. Enjoy a seven-course tasting menu featuring moreish dishes such as octopus carpaccio with saffron emulsion and an accompanying wine flight and you’ll be thankful your private bolthole, the 17th-century Garden Cottage, is only a stagger away next door. Its ancient charms include an original inglenook fireplace, three beamed bedrooms, a private country garden for breakfast – and no sharing oxygen with strangers.

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More Georgian glamour awaits at the three-bedroom Townhouse in Bath, the decadent offshoot of The Gainsborough, one of the UK’s most indulgent destination spas (thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk). Townhouse guests have the best of both worlds: four peaceful floors of period splendour to call your own and unlimited access to the hotel’s Spa Village where you can take the waters, dipping in the city’s famously mineral-rich thermal pools before retreating to your private paradise.

Not to be outdone, The Gainsborough’s sister property, Monkey Island Estate in Berkshire (monkeyislandestate.co.uk) has also spread its accommodation wings.

The hotel occupies an elegant sliver of an idyllic seven-acre islet, moored on the River Thames outside the foodie Mecca that is Bray. Six new residences are dotted about the village, which is home to seven Michelin stars. All are within easy reach of the hotel facilities, including a massage we guarantee will leave you feeling like you’re floating, since the spa is housed in a smart river barge. The 20 per cent discount for guests of residences will further augment your wellbeing glow. Our pick is the sweet, 500-year-old Dormer Cottage, with wooden beams and an open fireplace.

Foodies should also put Manor Cottage on their culinary radar, a garden retreat in the Gothic gorgeousness of Hampton Manor in the West Midlands (hamptonmanor. com). The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Peel’s, is a celebration of good taste, from its hand-painted Fromental wallpaper to the delicate flavours of Cornish mussels with white truffle. The cottage itself is a tick list of cuteness, from the gabled roof

and mullioned windows to its fusion of Arts and Crafts and mid-century decor. Chef Rob Palmer and his talented team provide cottage guests with all the necessary for Michelin-approved brunches, lunches and dinners as well as Mr Creosote-style supplies of grazing goodies and midnight munchies.

But don’t forget long-standing favourites.

Who can resist the Lodges, an easy stroll from the convivial Beckford Arms (beckfordarms.com) on the Fonthill Estate near Salisbury? From the roll-top bathtubs of these secret, split-level boltholes, you overlook dreamy Fonthill Lake.

And, given this was a backdrop for the film Chocolat, it would be rude to survey this watery scene without nibbling on some chilli truffles.

Meanwhile, when Prince Harry wanted a guaranteed paparazzi-free night before his marriage, he chose the Dower House at Coworth Park in Ascot (dorchestercollection. com). It’s the perfect pre-wedding sanctuary, marrying Grade II-listed grandeur with sleek contemporary design and surrounded by a private garden with a river running through it – plus some of Granny’s swans to complete the bucolic picture.

For her own last night of freedom, Meghan chose the Palladian pizzazz of Cliveden House outside Taplow (clivedenhouse. co.uk), where Spring Cottage, a gingerbreadcute retreat, nestles into a minty stretch of the River Thames – and has scandal written into its DNA. This is where Christine Keeler met John Profumo one sultry summer weekend in 1961 and they began the three-month affair that brought down the Macmillan government. You should plan to have so much fun you bring the house down too. n

FROM ABOVE: Manor Cottage is just a step away from a Michelin-starred meal; try Simon Rogan’s locally sourced menu at Henrock at Linthwaite House; Coworth Park’s Dower House was where Prince Harry stayed before his wedding; Spring Cottage on the Cliveden estate has its own idyllic stretch of the Thames

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CELEBRATING 25 YEARS AS THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING Make sure you get the most out of your days on the hill with luxury sporting clothing and accessories from The House of Bruar. From pure new wool traditional British tweeds to cutting-edge technical brands and exquisite accessories, we can ensure both men and ladies are ably equipped for all our favourite country pursuits.

You can even get hampers and a choice selection of smoked meats, award-winning pies and exclusive Scottish liqueurs from our expansive foodhall, featuring the best of Scotland’s Natural Larder. Have a day out and visit our store just off the A9 10 miles north of Pitlochry or online via our website.

This collection is drawn from our new Autumn/ Winter textile catalogue. To order any item, please visit:

www.houseofbruar.com

Please call 01796 483 236 to request a copy of our mail order catalogue.

The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW

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From haute cuisine to scrumptious pub grub like this – from The Bell Inn chef Tom Noest – the kitchen has become the heart of the hotel

Look Who’s Cooking Check in for these sensational hotel chefs and you’ll never check out, says Emma Love

F

ood can be a real game-changer when choosing a hotel. It’s not just the quality of the ingredients and style of cooking but also the sheer innovation and skill that’s involved – whether you’re hoping for a finelytuned 12-course tasting menu or the most delicious pub grub imaginable. From newcomers on the Michelin scene to city sensations and destination seaside restaurants, these are the chefs whose dishes are worth checking in for.

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TOM NOEST

The Bell Inn, Cotswolds

‘The garlic, parsley and bone marrow flatbread the kitchen sent out with a few slices of the roast dry-aged sirloin was the best thing I ate in the whole of 2017,’ commented critic Giles Coren after visiting this country inn in Langford, where he scored the food a rare perfect ten. Since then co-owner and chef Tom Noest has garnered a reputation for turning out elevated pub classics (fish and chips, wood-fired pizzas) and local game. thebelllangford.com

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JORDAN BAILEY Cliff at Lyons, Kildare, Ireland

While many restaurants pay lip service to using local ingredients, Cliff at Lyons’ Aimsir (Irish for weather) truly celebrates the best of Ireland’s larder.

Led by Jordan Bailey (previously head chef at Norway’s three-Michelin-star Maaemo), it earned two Michelin stars just four months after opening last year. The 18-course set menu currently features bite-size morsels such as kelp from the Skellig coast, Flaggy Shore oyster and Achill Island mountain lamb finished over hot coals. cliffatlyons.ie; aimsir.ie

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LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire

Lisa Goodwin-Allen joined Northcote aged 20 and within three years had risen through the ranks to become one of the youngest head chefs in a Michelin-starred kitchen. She took over the reins as executive chef in 2017 and since then has added a lighter touch to the seasonal dishes, as well as a new plantbased tasting menu. Expect classical flavours reassembled in inventive ways, impeccable presentation using herbs and flowers grown in the kitchen garden and plenty of game. northcote.com

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TRISTAN WELCH

University Arms, Cambridge

When the University Arms reopened its doors in 2018 after a complete refurb, and with a new-look Parkers Tavern restaurant, it was enough to lure Tristan Welch back from the Cotton House on Mustique. Now chef director at the hotel’s brasserie, he’s become known for serving up mouth-watering classics with a fun twist, such as beef bolognese served with bacon or pink rhubarb and ginger cheesecake. The buzziest spot for Saturday night supper in the city. universityarms.com; parkerstavern.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 29

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ADAM HANDLING

Belmond Cadogan Hotel, London

Foodies may be familiar with Frog by Adam Handling, the Covent Garden flagship belonging to this multi-award-winning Scottish chef, but it wasn’t until last year that he teamed up with a hotel. And what a restaurant it is.

Adam Handling Chelsea in the Belmond Cadogan Hotel has a modern British, seasonal and sustainable menu – otherwise known as simple food cooked beautifully. Don’t miss his signature cheese doughnuts and chicken butter with sourdough, both from the snacks menu, or the afternoon tea inspired by his grandmother. belmond.com; adamhandlingchelsea.co.uk

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RICHARD SWALE Askham Hall, Cumbria

Richard Swale spent much of his childhood in Cumbria fishing and shooting with his dad, then helping to prepare and cook the catch. So it seems fitting that for the last seven years he has been head chef at Askham Hall, where what’s grown and reared on the Lowther Estate (Boer goat, Tamworth pigs, micro shoots from the polytunnel) dictates the tasting menu at Allium restaurant. Praised by Michelin for his innate understanding of the produce on his doorstep, Allium was awarded its first star last year. askhamhall.co.uk

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NIALL KEATING

Whatley Manor, Wiltshire

Whichever way you slice it, executive chef Niall Keating’s accolades are impressive: he was named Michelin European Young Chef of the Year in 2018 and was part of the team that won a second Michelin star in 2019 for The Dining Room, where his Asian-influenced flavours have been shaking up the traditional country house hotel dining scene for over three years. Book for the 12-course supper or lunchtime Great British Menu, based on the television series of the same name, where each delicious course is inspired by a children’s book. whatleymanor.com n

ANSHU ANGHOTRA

Jean-Georges at The Connaught

Three years ago, when world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten was looking for an executive chef for his new restaurant at The Connaught, he called Anshu Anghotra. At the time Anghotra was head chef at The Lanesborough (his CV is impressive, including Le Bristol and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons); now, he oversees a team of 70 in the kitchen who whip up classic French dishes with south-east Asian flavours. Black truffle pizza and crispy salmon sushi are both signatures. the-connaught.co.uk

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Paul McLoughlin, Unstacking Stooks, Coldridge, Devon.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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Devon, Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly Forget everything you thought you knew about this most mythical of regions. Instead, unearth the true heart of Devon and Cornwall by getting to know its people, its history and its future

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Wilfred Emmanuel-Jones The Black Farmer on Dartmoor walks, hidden coves and ancient castles was coming to Launceston.

There was so much speculation, it’s simply not the sort of store that comes to these parts – far too posh! But lo and behold, it arrived, to the disbelief of many, and it’s been a great success.

Quick bite? I would nip down the road

Favourite local lore?

‘Proper job’ – you know you are home when you hear those words spoken by the locals.

You absolutely must…

Try a traditional cream tea.

Whichever way you want to put your jam and cream is fine by me. If you’re not a sweet person, then a traditional Cornish pasty.

You can’t beat it.

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… I’ve done some

The Church of St Michael at Brentor on Dartmoor

pretty outrageous things since I moved here, and they still speak to me (thankfully!).

Take away? Devon and Cornwall have a huge amount of very talented artists and potters. I absolutely love Sophie Fordham’s pottery – it’s pretty eccentric which maybe is why I like it (sophiefordham.com).

Shop till you drop? Warren’s is the best butcher for miles around – fabulous quality meat that I would go a long way for (philipwarrenbutchers.co.uk). Also Strawberry Fields Farm Shop at Lifton for the best of local produce.

Favourite garden? Lanhydrock near Bodmin is beautiful (nationaltrust.org.uk).

Back to nature? I can’t think of anywhere I would like more to be in nature than here on the farm.

I often sit in the vegetable garden, enjoying the peace, the view and having time to ponder…

Family fun? My family is grown up now, but we still might go ice skating at the Eden Project in the Jam or cream first on a winter for some serious laughs!

Cornish cream tea? theblackfarmer.com

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to the bar at the Arundell Arms in Lifton (arundellarms.com).

Languorous lunch? I head to the Hotel Endsleigh near Tavistock, particularly in the winter when there is a lovely log fire to welcome you. The staff are always friendly and offer attentive service to go with truly delicious food (hotelendsleigh.com).

Favourite walk? Nothing gives me greater pleasure than walking around the fields here at my farm. I am fortunate as we have fabulous views, and I can look across to Launceston Castle from one angle and then, as I walk further around, see the Church of St Michael at Brentor, which is 330m above sea level. If I do go further afield it’s to Dartmoor, or to walk up to the church and look back across to where I think the farm is – but it’s more difficult the other way around!

Decent pint? I am not a beer drinker, but I understand that the Bell Inn is the oldest known pub in Launceston and offers a range of real ales and local ciders. Worth a visit (bellinnlaunceston.co.uk).

History hit? It has to be Launceston Castle.

Building started soon after the Norman Conquest.

It has an unusual keep consisting of a 13th-century round tower built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall.

It’s a bit of a steep climb up a lot of stairs to the top of the tower, but it’s worth it for the great views (english-heritage.org.uk).

Culture vulture? I think the Minack open air theatre is a must. It was created through sheer hard work and endeavour by Rowena Cade, and looks as though it’s been there for ever, but it hasn’t.

It’s set on the rugged cliffs of southwest Cornwall and puts on hundreds of performances a year. It really is a special place for ardent theatre goers (minack. com). Alternatively, Tate St Ives has some interesting exhibitions (tate.org.uk).

Far from the madding crowd? There are still a number of sandy coves around the coastline that I think are difficult enough to reach to not encourage too many visitors. You can find a quiet spot on even the sunniest day. And no, I am not going to tell you where!

Any local gossip? I remember when there was a whisper that an M&S Foodhall

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

DO

Cornwall is full of history – both real and not-so-real. Although Tintagel is known around the world as King Arthur’s seat, the area’s actual past is far more interesting. Bossiney Haven, which had Sir Francis Drake as its MP in the 16th century, offers the outline of an Iron Age cliff castle, Willapark , which predates its more famous neighbour. Nearby Rocky Valley has the ruins of 18th-century mills and maze carvings that some say date back to the Bronze Age.

SEE

There’s more history to be found in neighbouring Boscastle , where the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic explores the curious tradition of the occult in the region (museumofwitchcraftandmagic. co.uk). Over the border in Devon, Dartington Hall has a rich history that dates back over 1,000 years. It was the site of the pioneering, controversial 20th-century ‘Dartington experiment’, taking in everything from education and farming to the arts. You can explore its 1,200 acre estate, including its Arts & Crafts gardens with sculptures

by Henry Moore, Willi Soukop and Peter Randall-Page (dartington.org).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

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Of course, pasties and cream teas are synonymous with this part of the world. But for something a bit different, try Cornish Yarg – a fresh, lemony, creamy cheese that comes wrapped in nettles (lynherdairies.co.uk). The seafood of Rick Stein and Nathan Outlaw in Cornwall has also garnered much acclaim. Follow in their 5 footsteps with a trip to The Fish Deli in the ancient town of Ashburton, Devon. Stocking fresh, pole-and-line caught fish from small day boats, sustainability and seasonality is at the heart of this family-run operation (thefishdeli.co.uk).

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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Just off the coast of north Devon lies Lundy Island, a wildlife haven with no roads, cars or pollution, and a population of only 28 – plus lots of puffins. Home to the UK’s first Marine Conservation Zone, it can be reached for day trips by boat from Bideford or Ilfracombe. Burgh Island , in south Devon, is slightly more accessible across a strip of beach at low tide, or a sea tractor when it’s high. Its striking Art Deco hotel was beloved by Agatha Christie, who wrote Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None while staying there.

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ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton (page 72). In the charming old quarter of Penzance they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art from top to toe. In the airy bedrooms, walls are adorned with funky murals painted by British artists, original canvases and limited-edition prints. From sleigh beds to packing crate tables, the furniture has panache and seven new bedrooms were unveiled in 2017, plus the fabulous Lookout, a luxe retreat complete with roof terrace, and The Cottage, a self-catering family retreat sleeping up to six. In the Cornish Barn restaurant there are reclaimed wooden walls and bar, metal tables and more art to enjoy alongside your food. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and fish at dinner, courtesy of the smoker in the newly unveiled garden, which comes complete with an al-fresco bar and a tempting programme of outdoor feasts to enjoy.

Doubles from £85 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk

BEDRUTHAN HOTEL & SPA MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL

Inspired by the work of architect Richard Neutra, Bedruthan Hotel & Spa is a striking beach-front escape on the North Cornwall coast. It was designed to connect people with the natural landscape, with floor-to-ceiling windows bringing the outside in and making the most of the stunning sea vistas of this part of the county. Inside, furnishings showcase pops of playful colour and walls act as a gallery for some of the finest work by abstract painters like Patrick Heron and Roger Hilton.

Relax and unwind in the indoor thermal spa, which offers a place to chat or snooze (whichever you prefer) in the warmth of the hydropool, sauna, pool and caldarium.

Meanwhile, the nearby Sensory Spa Garden is a an outdoor adventure designed to invigorate the senses, with a cedar barrel sauna, herbal scrubs and wood-fired hot tubs.

You can also dine on delicious cuisine in the hotel’s casual Wild Cafe, with its oven-fresh baked goods and heartwarming bowls of seasonal ingredients. Or choose The Herring restaurant for deep, slow flavours, local produce and candle-lit conversations.

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CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Approached to by a narrow lane that descends the cliff, its location is nothing short of spectacular. Once ensconced in the Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary – you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one. Its delightful bedrooms, with echoes of New England-style, are each supplied with a stick of rock on the snow-white pillows.

Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled, slate-floored bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seaside-fresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. There are also five smart cottages sleeping groups from four to eight, each with their own gardens and sundowner spots. While you wouldn’t usually expect sybaritic luxury at a self-styled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-of-the-art spa with a hydrotherapy pool, steam and sauna, and marine Thalgo treatments. Romantic, family friendly and perfect for walkers, sailors, fishermen and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £269 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk

DRIFTWOOD ROSELAND, CORNWALL

There’s no more fabulous vista than from clifftop Driftwood. More Mediterranean than Cornish, it overlooks Gerrans Bay on the Roseland Peninsula and includes seven acres of gardens full of secluded, shady spots that lead to a perfect crescent of private beach.

Halfway down is a rustic cabin with two small bedrooms and a sitting room – a magical place to stay in summer. A wildflower garden is home to bees that produce honey for the restaurant.

The house itself, a 1930s building transformed with the aid of dusky blue clapboard, makes the most of the views. Whether relaxing in the bedrooms, drinking on the generous terrace or indulging in a delicious meal prepared in the highly acclaimed restaurant and enjoyed in the chic dining room (hand-rolled linguine, say, or wild turbot with razor clams), you’ll want to stay forever. When Paul and Fiona Robinson opened Driftwood 17 years ago neither had any hotel experience, but Fiona’s refined interior designer skills, plus their dedicated hands-on approach and ease with guests, have created a delightful Cornish haven: stylish, seaside-fresh and devoid of any pretension.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1872 580644; driftwoodhotel.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 37

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FOWEY HALL FOWEY, CORNWALL

High above the delightful waterside town of Fowey, which famously inspired author Daphne du Maurier, stands the handsome country house that was also said to be an inspiration for Toad Hall in Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows. Inside, as in every Luxury Family Hotel, the ingredients of a perfect grown-up establishment – heralded by a hall with open fires, inviting sofas and twinkling chandeliers – are mixed with the essentials of a children’s paradise: play areas, an indoor pool, an Ofsted-registered crèche, audio and visual child monitoring system and more. There are 36 rooms and suites, all different, all beautifully refurbished and kitted out with a cohesive mix of new and lovingly restored antique furniture. The oak-panelled dining room is the setting for delicious dinners for adults, with family dining in the Garden Room restaurant next door and the same mouth-watering menus in both. But don’t think you have to have a family with you to come to Fowey Hall: cleverly, it’s a hotel that works just as well for couples. Don’t miss the outdoor hot tub with a spectacular sea view.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1726 833866; foweyhallhotel.co.uk

THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard here in Cornwall (see page 42), and the Felin Fach Griffin in Wales (see page 151). Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshineyellow dining pub with rooms, its name writ large on the long, tiled roof. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, it’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios. No TVs or phones. But panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door (fish from day boats and vegetables from small growers, say). The sweeping views over the crashing waves and gorse-covered moorland nearby are really quite extraordinary, too.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk 38 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

HELL BAY BRYHER, ISLES OF SCILLY

California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher, in the Isles of Scilly.

Awaiting you is nothing but grass, golden sand, a jumble of rocks and the vast ocean stretching all the way to America. It’s the creation of Robert Dorrien-Smith (he also owns Tresco) who has filled the waterfront hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection. There are 25 beautiful, airy suites, most with stunning sea views. You’ll also find a swimming pool, tennis court and fitness rooms, as well as a sumptuous spa treatment room and a yoga studio.

Delicious, island-inspired dishes made using local produce are served up at the AA Rosette restaurant and at The Crab Shack, a rustic former fisherman’s net loft with long tables and bench seating just yards from the shoreline. For a simple supper, nothing tastes better than the Bryher crab. And getting here has just got a whole lot easier, too, with a new helicopter service direct from Cornwall to the neighbouring island of Tresco (then it’s a short boat ride across the water).

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk

THE HORN OF PLENTY TAVISTOCK, DEVON

The majority of Devon and Cornwall is within an hour’s drive of this elegant 19th-century country house hotel, a stone’s throw from the Tamar Valley. For starters, the views of patchwork fields and dense forest are sensational. The other big draw is the two AA Rosette fine dining restaurant that has just been completely re-built so that now the doors open onto a huge new, valley-facing, two-level terrace (the best spot for afternoon tea). The food is modern British, made from locally sourced produce and exquisitely presented. Head chef Ashley Wright’s sixcourse signature tasting menu is a favourite with guests, as is the three night Gourmet Break offer. The rest of the social spaces have been refreshed, too, so there’s a fabulous new bar and a contemporary drawing room with subtle Moroccan design references. The 16 stylish rooms are split between the main house (built in 1866 with high ceilings, huge windows and exposed fireplaces), the original coach house and a sleek new wing – the best come with a private balcony overlooking the pretty walled garden.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1822 832528; thehornofplenty.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 39

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH MILTON ABBOT, DEVON

This delightful Regency cottage orné is set down a mile-long drive in its own secret valley.

Built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, its 100-acre gardens were laid out by Humphry Repton, whose plans included placing hidden chimneys in the woods so they could see smoke curling prettily above the trees. Today, over a delicious meal, you can gaze on the same view from lovely terraces. Repton’s raised herbaceous border, the River Tamar and the tumbling woods beyond are a mesmerising sight. With its wooden floors and doors, Endsleigh brings to mind an endearingly old-fashioned Scottish shooting lodge, but one artfully blended with contemporary luxury and owner Olga Polizzi’s stunning eye for design. The 19 bedrooms are stylish and unfussy (think hand-painted chinoiserie wallpapers, rolltop baths and snugly quilted beds) and include three suites in the stable block. One is perfect for families, another for honeymooners, while the newest is a quirky and delightful conversion of the former hayloft.

As for the grounds, they’re a fantasy of fairytale dells and grottos, cascades and crags.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1822 870000; thepolizzicollection.com

HOTEL TRESANTON ST MAWES, CORNWALL

With fabulous views over Falmouth Bay, Tresanton became a landmark when hotelier Olga Polizzi created the first truly fashionable and chic British seaside bolthole. It effortlessly continues to hold its own without any of the pretension of more recent, glossier addresses. Indeed, with its new Beach Club for lounging in the sun or eating gourmet burgers, it has never been better. Bedrooms are engaging and stylish and there’s a ship’s deck of a terrace. But the hotel also has cosiness, underpinned by professional service from waiters in white, silver-buttoned jackets. The hotel started life as a yacht club and is a series of five separate buildings. In Rock Cottage and Upper Tresanton there are three fabulous suites that are perfect for families, while the Forte suite in Rock Cottage has a wood burner and crow’s nest terrace. As for the locally sourced food, it’s served in a magical Mediterranean room, sunlit by day, candlelit by night. Plus, from May to September, a skipper will take guests sailing around Falmouth Bay on the hotel’s classic eight-metre yacht.

Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1326 270055; thepolizzicollection.com 40 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON

This handsome country house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career as a Michelin-starred celebrity chef.

Once the playground of the Baring banking family, it now has 21 glamorous guest rooms that take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary below them, as well as five new shepherd’s huts arranged around a pond in the grounds. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its birdlife, featured in the staircase wallpaper (handpainted by local artist Rachel Toll), the pictures of surrounding Devonshire scenery and the soothing bedroom colour schemes. But the reason you come here isn’t really for the deep outdoor soak tubs that overlook the estuary, the tennis court or the sensational views, pampering bathrooms or complimentary G&T tray in your room – it’s to experience Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food; he earned Lympstone’s first star within six months of opening in 2017. His latest project is a vineyard he planted with 17,500 vines in 2018, and this autumn marks the hotel’s first harvest.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk

THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, The Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated hotel. It’s a five-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Owner Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and his many regular guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, doorto-door chauffeur service and the fine food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants.

In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, flambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s a fine spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who offers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.

Doubles from £312 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 41

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charlie and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay (see pages 38 and 151), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room finds and striped curtains (the best come with a balcony). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes from the traditional brasserie menu – perhaps fish stew with fennel, new potatoes, sea vegetables and aioli, or milkbraised pork belly with choucroute, kohlrabi and mustard sauce – all cooked by head chef, Cornishman Jamie Porter. Making the most of the view through picture windows, the sunfilled sitting area runs the length of the ground floor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees to the sea or sitting at a scrubbed pine table on the upper deck facing St Clements Isle, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that sort of place.

From £150 +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

As you approach this grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by luscious meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly fulfilled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. There’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a bar with wood-fired oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other Pigs, this is a total joy.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com 42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE PIG AT HARLYN BAY PADSTOW, CORNWALL

‘Which is your favourite Pig?’ I am often asked. That’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s the last in the litter that comes leaping to mind first. The latest hotel – just opened in time for this guide – is this brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s another hit, with gorgeous, rich, dark, velvety interiors behind Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall. Contrast these rooms with the airy bistro and the separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild flowers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that will be as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. Though only just opened, this Pig feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning kitchen garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from head chef Adam Bristow.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)345 225 9494 ; thepighotel.com

POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL

Standing proud on the Lizard Peninsula, this one-time Victorian railway hotel has stunning, unspoilt views of the coastline.

Previously known as the Polurrian Bay Hotel, in 2019 it was re-named and all the communal spaces given a fresh new look; now it feels coastal and quirky, and there’s an emphasis on great service and relaxation. The restaurant specialises in Mediterranean-inspired dishes using the finest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas made in the woodfired Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, while listening to live music as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic views of the mature gardens and Atlantic Ocean. With easy access to Polurrian Cove beach and the South West Coast Path, a cliff-top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 13 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the outdoors and wants to explore this picturesque part of the country.

For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes.

Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 43

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE SCARLET CORNWALL

Overlooking the sweeping, romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco-hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At the heart of The Scarlet is the womblike Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation.

There’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one, plus two clifftop hot tubs and a cedar barrel sauna perched overlooking the ocean. Bedrooms come in clusters on several levels, but they’re all soothing, with funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds and sea and sunset views. As for the delicious food, executive chef Mike Francis oversees his team with an air of calm, kindness and mutual respect, consistently serving up exceptional seasonal dishes from the hotel kitchen. The Scarlet may be thoroughly green and eco-friendly but there’s no sense of the 1970s hair shirt approach; once inside this adult-only sanctuary, the feeling is one of soothing, sybaritic luxury.

The ultimate green escape.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to a memorable meal. Alternatively, you can eat more simply at Rick Stein’s Café, St Petroc’s Bistro or Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which offers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning.

As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and set in charming, whitewashed village houses. There are lovely rooms above the Seafood Restaurant, while the cheapest are above the Café and the most expensive in St Edmund’s House, which has oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, there’s four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s, just behind it. Finally, for a romantic retreat one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com 44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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STAR CASTLE HOTEL ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY

Fashioned from a perfect, star-shaped, 16thcentury castle on a headland above Hugh Town, this historic hotel is a stellar find, fit for royalty – in fact, it’s welcomed crowned heads from Charles II to our own Charles, HRH the Prince of Wales. Stretching out behind are the modern Garden Rooms, perfect for families, plus an indoor pool and conservatory dining room, all set in lush grounds. Once the most secure defence post in the British Isles, the castle now has the charm and intimacy of a Cotswold cottage. There’s a cosy bar (formerly the dungeon), first-floor sitting room and stone-walled dining room, with eight charming bedrooms in the castle, plus three in former guardrooms. As for food, indulge in owner Robert Francis’s two passions, fishing and wine, by eating a steamed lobster that he’s caught himself and drinking a fabulous bottle of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay from his HolyVale vineyard, where he lovingly tends 7,000 vines. At breakfast Robert’s son and co-owner, James, arranges guest outings along with the hotel’s boatman, Tim. It’s a family affair, and a special one at that.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1720 422317; star-castle.co.uk

TREWORNAN MANOR WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts – genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014 they rescued this handsome grade II-listed manor, set in 25 acres of mature gardens, from a state of dilapidation. They have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining fine architectural features whilst bringing the house into the 21st century. The seven bedrooms – including a brand new double and a suite – have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperor-sized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms (the largest also have freestanding baths). The little things haven’t been forgotten either, with hot water bottles and robes upstairs and crackling fires, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar for help-yourself drinks downstairs.

Homemade cakes are baked by Paul’s mother, while the large, airy sitting room is a real home from home. The location close to the Camel Estuary could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac and Paul Ainsworth in Padstow. A great place to escape the kids.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 45

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Leigh Dorey, Spring Greens, North Dorset. Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

The West Country Forget the cider-drinking stereotypes. From cutting-edge culture to headline-grabbing cities – not to mention its two awesome coastlines – go west for a trip you won’t forget

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Carlos Acosta The dancer on wild swimming in Somerset and sampling local organic English wine there is also worth visiting (english-heritage.org.uk).

Local gossip? Johnny Depp is supposed to own a house in the area but no one knows exactly where, or if it’s even true...

Quick bite? Eight Stony Street in Frome

is just perfect for any meal of the day (eightstonystreet.com).

Languorous lunch? I love The Pig near Bath (thepighotel.com).

Favourite walk? Along the river from Mells to Frome. Batcombe also has very pretty walks and I love walking the Bath skyline.

Decent pint? The Talbot Inn in Mells (talbotinn.com) or The Sheppey Inn in Lower Godney, Glastonbury (sheppey.co.uk).

Spot of romance? A meal at The Pony and Trap in Chew Magna (theponyandtrap. co.uk), a night at Babington House (sohohouse.com) or an evening stroll along Pulteney Bridge in Bath.

History hit? In Bath you’re really spoilt for choice. Obviously the Roman Baths are a must (romanbaths.co.uk), but I would also recommend the guided tower tour at Bath Abbey, a climb up Glastonbury Tor and a visit to the 800-year-old George Inn in Norton St Philip (georgeinnnsp.co.uk).

Culture vulture? Hauser & Wirth in Bruton is a multi-purpose arts centre that runs great exhibitions, and you can also attend a variety of talks, seminars and screenings (hauserwirth.com).

You absolutely must…

Attend the Frome independent market on the first Sunday of the month.

Thousands of people flock to Catherine Hill to buy from the artisan markets and food stalls. There’s also live music, antique furniture stalls and a vintage disco for kids. (thefromeindependent.org.uk).

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… Have a party

without inviting them.

Far from the madding crowd?

Wild swimming in the Frome river at Farleigh Hungerford. The castle ruin

Catch a show at The Egg, Bath Theatre Royal’s children’s theatre

Explore The Newt’s idyllic gardens

sourdough ever from the Rye Bakery in Frome (rye-bakery.com), some aged cheddar from Cheddar and organic wine from Avalon Vineyard in Shepton Mallet (pennardorganicwines.co.uk).

Shop till you drop? Any shop on Catherine Hill or on beautiful Cheap Street in Frome.

We are very lucky to have so many wonderful independent shops in Frome.

Favourite garden? The Newt in Bruton, absolutely stunning gardens plus a glass-fronted restaurant and farm shop (thenewtinsomerset.com). Or the Walled Garden at Mells is idyllic (thewalledgardenatmells.co.uk).

Back to nature? There are so many exceptionally beautiful spots on Exmoor.

Great places to camp or go for clifftop walks.

Family fun? We go on picnics and cycle rides through Longleat Forest, and on occasional trips to The Egg (theatreroyal. org.uk), a dedicated children’s theatre in Bath. The Mill on the Brue activity centre is great fun too (millonthebrue.co.uk), as are the Wookey Hole Caves in the Mendip Hills near Wells (wookey.co.uk).

Carlos Acosta is Director of the Birmingham Royal Ballet. brb.org.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; CHRIS LANE; PHILIP VILE

Take away? The best

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DO

Take a trip to Cheddar Gorge for Somerset’s (admittedly much, much smaller) take on the Grand Canyon. Or visit Crawthrone Farm in south Dorset, home to the 30-acre vineyard where the Langham Wine Estate grows the grapes for – and makes – its award-winning sparkling wine.

Take a guided tour of the grounds and learn what it takes to produce a decorated wine, as well as sample said wine with a tutored tasting (langhamwine.co.uk).

SEE

Every summer hundreds of hot air balloons take to the skies over Bristol – watch from the Clifton Suspension Bridge to get the best view in town. You may already have ticked off Stonehenge (englishheritage.org.uk), but make a pilgrimage to neighbouring Glastonbury for the ancient Chalice Well, surrounded by gardens and orchards (chalicewell.org.uk). There’s also the haunting Glastonbury Abbey to visit (glastonburyabbey.com). If your tastes lean more to a pop pilgrimage, head to Worthy Farm to walk the public footpaths through Glasto’s famous festival site.

1

2

3

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; CHRIS LANE; PHILIP VILE

4

In the Somerset village of Mells, backing onto the garden of the Earl of Oxford’s family home (and a short walk away from where Seigfried Sassoon is buried), stands The Talbot Inn . It uses only local ingredients and the best produce, growing much of it in its own kitchen garden – the food will blow you away. In the Coach House grill room the finest meat is cured or smoked in-house to be ordered on sizzling platters. Retire to the Old Sitting Room after dinner – which, after 500 years, is aptly named (talbotinn.com).

GO

5

Dorset’s awe-inspiring Jurassic Coast is a destination for fossil hunters and nature lovers alike. Avoid overcrowded sites like Durdle Door, and head instead to Dancing Ledge (southwestcoastpath.org.uk) – it’s a steep walk down, but you’re rewarded with a swim in a sea pool hewn from the rocks. If it’s fossils you’re after, Kimmeridge Bay is the place.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRISTOL, SOMERSET

When Justin and Charlie Salisbury were hunting for a site for their newest Artist Residence hotel they settled on an old boot factory in the artsy St Paul’s community in Bristol. To start with the building had all of the qualities the pair typically looks for – a nod to the past, original beams and exposed brick walls – to which they added their signature industrial-luxe style, an eclectic mix of vintage and boho furniture and a collection of original, specially commissioned artworks by local artists. The 23 rooms range from the super cosy Shoe Box, which has arched floor-toceiling windows, a comfy king-sized bed and compact bathroom (best suited for solo travellers or shorter stays) to the vast Artist Suite – think Georgian cornicing, views over leafy Portland Square and a roll-top bathtub in the bathroom. The idea was to create a proper, buzzing neighbourhood hang-out so there’s a real emphasis on the social spaces – a coffee shop, bar, casual allday restaurant and garden – as well as a programme of cool cultural events.

Opening soon. Price TBC +44 (0)2030 198623; artistresidence.co.uk

THE BATH ARMS AT LONGLEAT HORNINGSHAM, WILTSHIRE

This is the latest venture by co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees, whose portfolio of successful country pubs with rooms also includes The Beckford Arms in Fonthill Gifford (see opposite). Here, the trio has reinvented an 18th-century inn on the edge of the Longleat Estate, adding 16 simple yet stylish rooms in the main building and stable block. Countryside-inspired interiors feature a muted colour palette, cosy blankets on the beds and sink-into armchairs; the biggest also come with modern four-posters and roll-top baths.

Local is a priority so there is gin from nearby distilleries and beer from artisan breweries (they also have their own Horning Ale), as well as wine from the Beckford Bottle Shop in Bath, all served at the wood-panelled bar. In the kitchen, chef Jack Chapman (he cut his teeth at The Beckford Arms) cooks up comforting, unpretentious favourites such as dry-aged Wiltshire steaks, hearty Sunday lunch and apple crumble to share.

And during the summer, there’s nothing more lovely than tucking into wood-fired pizza on the sun-trap terrace looking out across the fields.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1985 844308; batharmsinn.com 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, founded by the eccentric William Beckford in the 18th-century, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room or pretty conservatory; there’s also private dining for 12 in the homely library or for 24 in the quiet sitting room, with its crackling log fire, comfy antique chairs and table piled with books and magazines worth reading. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar washed down with their own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners, peerless breakfasts.

You sleep well too: co-owners Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton have thought of everything for the sophisticated guest, from luxurious beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws, garden flowers and Chloë Luxton’s lovely Bramley bath products. There’s an outdoor pizza oven and boules piste, and the garden rambles delightfully towards the stone arch that frames views of romantic Fonthill with its lake and rolling parkland.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com

BOWOOD HOTEL, SPA AND GOLF RESORT CALNE, WILTSHIRE

There are 43 spacious, contemporary bedrooms in this fine estate hotel, but it’s the stunning reception rooms, designed by the Marchioness of Lansdowne, that make the place: the soft grey hall, book-lined library and the sweeping Shelburne bar and restaurant, perfect for elegant but contemporary dining. Stay here – in 2,000 acres of Capability Brown parkland – and enjoy one of the finest all-weather PGA Championship golf courses in the South West. Alternatively, take over the four-bedroom Queenwood Lodge, made for special occasions. Alongside the hotel, enjoy a spell in the beautiful award-winning spa with infinity pool or sit down for a delicious afternoon tea in the library. Bowood House, located on the estate just a mile from the hotel, has been home to the Lansdowne family since 1754. Tour the house and grounds and, in spring, don’t miss the spectacular Woodland Gardens. For families, the adventure playground is a must, with aerial walkways among the trees, rope bridges and a swashbuckling pirate ship where little ones can let off steam. So much to do, in such a lovely place.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1249 822228; bowood.org/hotel 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 51

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BROAD STREET TOWNHOUSE BATH, SOMERSET

Just five minutes walk from the Roman Baths and Thermae Bath Spa, Broad Street Townhouse is the latest opening from Butcombe Brewery. Set in a Grade II-listed limestone building, it has 11 sumptuous, individually decorated bedrooms (choose from Snug, Signature or Signature Plus, which is set up for families with an extra sofa bed) split over three storeys. The look is modern-rustic; the colour palette calming and contemporary ranging from taupe walls to dusky pink suede headboards. Lovely details include photography and illustration art prints above the bed, and in the bathroom, colourful patterned floor tiles and organic Bramley products. There’s a laid-back cafe on the ground floor for breakfast (for those who prefer room service, you can also have pastries delivered in a wicker hamper) and all-day bites, which then morphs into an equally laid-back hang-out for cocktails, charcuterie, cheese boards and craft beers at night.

Meanwhile next door, newly refurbished, lively sister venue The Pig & Fiddle serves up Sunday roasts and hearty pub classics.

Doubles from £112 +44 (0)1225 485760; butcombe.com

THE EASTBURY HOTEL & SPA SHERBORNE, DORSET

An early Georgian gentleman’s residence enjoying the historic town of Sherborne, The Eastbury is an award-winning five-star boutique hotel, recently fully refurbished in country house style by its new owners, Peter and Lana de Savary. Guests keep returning for its understated charm, friendly staff, comfortable rooms and stand-out restaurant – who can blame them?

The 26 bedrooms are split between traditional luxury and contemporary chic, full of colour and abstract paintings. The fabrics are superb quality and bedrooms all enjoy crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. Five new Victorian Garden Potting Shed Suites are discreetly located within the leafy grounds, as is its boutique luxury spa, which has a wild meadow roof and circular wooden door.

On the à la carte menu at Seasons, executive chef Matthew Street’s acclaimed and innovative dishes include delicate hake and cod of delicious proportions; in summer, nothing beats eating al fresco on the bistro or terrace set among the walled garden’s herbaceous borders. New for summer 2020, a renovated three-bedroom cottage is ideal for self-catering family breaks.

Doubles from £202 +44 (0)1935 813131; theeastburyhotel.co.uk 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE WEST COUNTRY

LITTLE BARWICK HOUSE YEOVIL, SOMERSET

A white-washed mix of early Georgian and Victorian architecture, with a huge cedar on the lawn, a glorious garden and fields where ponies graze; Little Barwick House is a quiet delight. It’s one of those highly accomplished yet soothing and unpretentious small hotels where stress levels fall back to zero and tired guests, once installed by the fire (perhaps with a G&T and the prospect of a bottle of Givry with dinner) are comforted, mollified and altogether pepped up. Tim Ford’s uncomplicated, locally renowned cooking (try the saddle of wild roe deer or Cornish red mullet with saffron sauce) is the heart of the operation, matched by his wife Emma’s superb and well-sourced wine list, helpfully divided by taste. Their enjoyment in what they do, and the ease with which they do it, generates the calm, contented atmosphere. Friendly helpers in their own clothes add to the feeling of being in a private, if beautifully orchestrated, home; rooms are also snug and tranquil, with fantastically comfortable beds.

Doubles from £154 +44 (0)1935 423902; littlebarwick.co.uk

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie with open kitchen.

Then there’s the spa, including sleek indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms and a social lounge with mixology bar. The impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards. For your own slice of the estate, book the new four-bedroom luxury Squire’s Cottage, or the chic, threebedroom Keeper’s Cottage or Thatcher’s Cottage, and hire a private chef for the night.

Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations. If you yearn for a bit of grandeur but without a hint of starchiness, then this superb hotel perfectly fits the bill.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 53

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE METHUEN ARMS CORSHAM, WILTSHIRE

The enthusiasm and drive of The Metheun Arms’ hardworking, friendly team has secured the reputation of this former coaching inn, which was awarded its third AA Rosette as a first-rate local pub-restaurant on Corsham’s charming high street. An inn since 1608, its handsome façade is Georgian, in common with many of its neighbours, and at the back a pretty courtyard comes into its own in summer. There might be a convivial buzz in the bar downstairs (where the Duke of Edinburgh has played skittles and darts with his compatriots from the Royal Arthur Petty Officer Training School in Corsham), but all is cool and harmonious in the decoration: Farrow & Ball colours, stone and wood floors, tall windows, tweed cushions and leather banquettes. Each of the 19 reassuringly calm bedrooms has comfy armchairs, Roberts radios, mini fridges, thick blankets and feather pillows. Also its awardwinning GM and head chef, Leigh Evans, is a secret weapon. He chooses only local, top quality ingredients for the all-day restaurant to create seasonal dishes crammed full of exciting flavours.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1249 717060; themethuenarms.com

MOONFLEET MANOR WEYMOUTH, DORSET

Is there a more idyllic setting for a family break than the intriguingly named Moonfleet Manor? If it sounds like something out of an adventure novel, it is: steeped in smuggling history, the house formed the backdrop for John Meade Falkner’s swashbuckling novel of the same name. Built for Maximilian Mohune and overlooking Fleet Lagoon on the Jurassic Coast, the big, friendly Georgian house has a spectacular location. Its elegant and welcoming interiors provide the perfect contrast to the spine-tingling landscape of Chesil Beach, an 18 mile-long stretch of pebbles (about 180 billion, they reckon) and setting for the eponymous film based on Ian McEwan’s novel. With its Ofstedregistered crèche, verandah, indoor play zone, outdoor sandpit and playground, tennis courts, spa treatment rooms and indoor pool, plus sophisticated dining in the Mediterraneanstyle restaurant and bedroom decor that ranges from grand to contemporary, Moonfleet truly has something for everyone. There’s plenty to explore nearby too, from walks along the South West Coast Path that runs along the bottom of the hotel’s garden to crabbing in Weymouth.

Doubles from £109 +44 (0)1305 786948; moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk 54 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET

This may be just one of seven rural-themed Pig hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Homegrown Hotels group: a proper, grown-up hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. ‘It’s The Pig on steroids,’ says owner Robin Hutson (though luckily not the price, which is the opposite of pumped-up). Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle.

As at all the Pigs, the kitchen garden is central and its abundant produce appears on your plate in the lovely conservatory.

It’s a great venue for one of the Pigs’ fantastic Smoked & Uncut festivals, when you can take a room or glamp in a bell tent if the mood takes you.

Rooms from £170 +44 (0)1761 490490; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18thcentury house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views? You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep-flecked fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a much-loved seaside sibling in the drove of Pig hotels (see pages 42, 43 and 79) and opposite and it positively brims with charm.

In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant and walled kitchen garden there are quirkily different bedrooms, including a charming shepherd’s hut with log fire and separate bathroom. There’s a happening outdoor bar with wood-fired oven, a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut (complete with its own ice cream cart), and essential beach bags, mats, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel. For fun in the sun, and smiles on faces, you need look no further.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 55

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE RECTORY CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE

Originally the rectory to a nearby church before it became a country house hotel, this grade II-listed Georgian building was revamped and re-opened by former music executive Alex Payne in 2017. Now it has 18 pared-back but beautiful bedrooms – 15 in the main house, plus three in a separate cottage – all kitted out with contemporary furniture; beds with smart velvet headboards in shades such as mustard or navy and roll top baths with Bramley products in the bathroom. All the little details have been considered, from the smart TVs to the honesty bar on each landing, stocked with brandy and whisky for anyone who fancies a nightcap.

Downstairs there are two inviting sitting rooms with sink-into sofas, board games, paperbacks and in winter, a crackling log fire. Food is served in the relaxed woodpanelled dining room, the airy glasshouse and in the tranquil garden, where there’s a heated pool. Popular sister pub, The Potting Shed, is just over the road too, for equally delicious suppers and fine ales.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com

RED LION FREEHOUSE EAST CHISENBURY, WILTSHIRE

A short drive from Stonehenge, this quintessential English pub has held a Michelin star for the last eight years. It’s run with unpretentious warmth by committed owners Guy and Brittany Manning, along with their close-knit team, Oxford Sandy & Black pigs that live at the top of the garden and Stowford, the springer spaniel. Guy and Dan Barker are the superb joint head chefs, preparing wonderful dishes such as baked Cornish turbot or rib of Wiltshire beef, for the main restaurant and private dining room upstairs, often using garden produce (don’t miss the local truffle season, from September to December). Brittany is American – they met while working in a New York restaurant – and a talented pastry chef who whips up sweet treats for the bakery, which opens every Sunday morning. She’s also responsible for Troutbeck, the converted bungalow turned guest house along the lane containing five chic bedrooms. Each has a private deck overlooking the idyllic River Avon, where you can fish for trout. Thatched and pretty as a picture, the Red Lion Freehouse makes an exceptional bolthole in unspoilt countryside.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1980 671124; redlionfreehouse.com 56 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH, SOMERSET

In the heart of beautiful Bath lies The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, a five-star destination expertly combining first-class service and meticulous attention to detail. John Wood the Younger’s 250-year-old Georgian terrace is truly magnificent, and the hotel’s 45 suites and rooms, which offer unrivalled views over the hotel’s pretty herbaceous borders or the Crescent’s impressive lawn, are among the UK’s most memorable places to stay. There’s a choice of not one but three afternoon teas.

The Spa & Bath House is another wonderfully atmospheric haven, so after unwinding with an Elemental Herbology treatment, why not relax in the Taittinger Spa Garden with a glass of rosé and a delicious lunch or afternoon tea?

What’s more, until September the hotel is hosting its very own poetry trail in its acre of secluded gardens, and the ‘Hunt the Nutcracker’ garden game returns for its second year in December. The hotel has recently welcomed three rescue hedgehogs to its gardens; keep an eye out for them, especially in the evening.

Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

SUMMER LODGE EVERSHOT, DORSET

Set in four acres of Hardy country, this 18th-century manor was enlarged for the Earl of Ilchester in 1893 by a local architect – Thomas Hardy himself. Today, the house is filled with beautiful fabrics, patterns and objects: never has a country hotel felt more like an elegant lady, coiffed and perfumed, about to go to the ball. As for the bedrooms – oh, the comfort – they lack for nothing: there are even fleece-covered hot-water bottles to warm your bed. The best is the new garden suite in Bea’s Cottage, which has a sitting room, cocktail bar and private walled garden. For connoisseurs of drink, it’s hard to beat: sommelier Eric Zwiebel’s cellar, noted for its energetic eclecticism, is stocked with well over 300 whiskies, armagnacs and cognacs, plus 1,500 wine bins, while Steven Titman’s cooking squares up perfectly with his delightful tasting menus. There are many reasons to choose Summer Lodge – not least the boutique spa and indoor pool – but if you are planning a celebration, from four people to 70, then look no further: they orchestrate such occasions beautifully.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1935 482000; summerlodgehotel.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 57

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Frank Leavesley, Cool Light, New Forest, Hampshire. Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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Hampshire & the Isle of Wight With its endless skies, shady forests, entrancing blue seas and sweeping sandy beaches, this fascinating slice of southern England is definitely not to be missed

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Mike Christie The singer and founder of the Wight Proms on the finest bits of island life We also host free arts workshops for children, offering them an immersive involvement in the arts that they would not otherwise experience (wightproms.co.uk).

Quick bite? The Crab Shed, Steephill Cove.

Far from the madding crowd? You can sit in Queen

The Hut in Colwell Bay

Don’t leave without trying the local Island produce

Take a trip back to a simpler time at the steam railway

Victoria’s pew at St Mildred’s Church in Whippingham. She ruled the empire from the Isle of Wight (staying at Osborne House in East Cowes) and this was her local church. It’s often overlooked by tourists.

Local gossip? Benedict Cumberbatch got married on the island, and has a house here.

Local lore? People born and bred on the island are known as caulkheads, and the UK mainland is referred to as ‘the north island’.

You absolutely must… Visit the Godshill Model Village, as it’s so brilliantly executed and there are surprises everywhere you look (modelvillagegodshill.co.uk).

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… As a general rule: leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs. And, if you want to get in with sailors when visiting, you should learn the difference between a sheet and a warp, and don’t wear red trousers.

Take away? Garlic from the Garlic Farm (thegarlicfarm.co.uk), tomatoes from the Tomato Stall (thetomatostall.co.uk), and local cheeses and butter from Briddlesford Lodge Farm (briddlesford.co.uk).

Shop till you drop? There are many independent shops here, and Yarmouth is so quaint. The shopkeepers there say it’s a real community for them, and they help each other out.

Favourite garden? The Ventnor Botanic Gardens are an absolute idyll (botanic.co.uk).

Back to nature? Newtown Creek is an inland harbour, with woodland, meadows, mudflats and marshland. It’s just incredible whatever the weather.

Family fun? Robin Hill is an amazing place with rides, adventure playgrounds, treetop walks, falconry, a 4D cinema… the list goes on (robin-hill.com). wightproms.co.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©THE ELECTRIC EYE PHOTOGRAPHY; © FRANK LEAVESLEY

I’m a big seafood fan, but I know many who aren’t, and this place caters for all tastes (steephillcove-isleofwight.co.uk).

Languorous lunch? The Hut in Colwell Bay. The views are simply stunning across the bay, which is enough of a reason to go, but the food is pretty tasty, too (thehutcolwell.co.uk).

Favourite walk? Parkhurst Forest transports you back to the time of the dinosaurs, and you can walk for hours. There’s also a squirrel hide, as we’re lucky enough to have an abundance of red squirrels here, largely wiped out on the mainland. I love this forest because you don’t think to check your mobile and it’s like nothing else exists. It’s a total escape from the madness of life.

Decent pint? Goddards Brewery is the oldest brewery on the island, and has beers with characterful, island-inspired names like ‘Ale of Wight’ and ‘Wight Squirrel’ (goddardsbrewery.com).

Spot of romance? The Isle of Wight Steam Railway has such a charm about it, like stepping back in time. I wouldn’t have been surprised if Hercule Poirot joined our carriage last time I went (iwsteamrailway.co.uk).

History hit? Brading Roman Villa is fascinating with original mosaic floors, and you learn how the shape and coastline of the island (called Vectis back then) has evolved since Roman times (bradingromanvilla.org.uk).

Culture vulture? The Wight Proms, of course. I founded the annual summer music festival in Cowes three years ago, celebrating comedy, musical theatre, and classical music.

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

DO

Wild ponies aren’t the only diversion in Hampshire that’ll keep children entertained for hours. At Rans Wood or Puttles Bridge you’ll find secluded wild streams with rope swings dangling over them, plus idyllic picnic spots to spend the afternoon like Huckleberry Finn. Across the water in the Isle of Wight, Steephill Cove is equally off the beaten track.

Surrounded by smugglers coves and steep cliffs, this tiny fisherman’s bay can only be reached by foot along a dramatic cliff path (steephillcove-isleofwight.co.uk). For a rainy day, enjoy some groundbreaking 19th-century photography at Dimbola Lodge (dimbola.co.uk).

1

SEE

If the historical wow-factor is what you’re looking for, take a day trip to Lymington’s Hurst Castle. Built around 1541, it’s one of the strongholds where Charles I was imprisoned during the Civil War, along with the crumbling former Saxon settlement of Carisbrooke Castle on the Isle of Wight (english-heritage.org.uk). When it comes to enchanting garden walks, the storybook grounds of Mottistone Manor (nationaltrust. org.uk) are unparalleled. Or pop over to the lesser-known but equally pretty 10-acre woodland in East Dene (eastdeneiow.co.uk).

2

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©THE ELECTRIC EYE PHOTOGRAPHY; © FRANK LEAVESLEY

EAT

3

It’s no secret you’re spoilt for fabulous restaurant choices in Hampshire. Verveine Fishmarket keeps a lower profile than others, but with specialist in-house fishmongers and an awardwinning menu (think crab mayonnaise and tiger prawns in smoked cloches), it knocks the fins off any London fish supper (verveine. co.uk). Looking for a private-dining feel? On the banks of the Beaulieu River you’ll find the Gins Clubhouse, Royal Southampton Yacht Club . Simply order yourself a glass of wine, sit back, and enjoy beautiful river views and yachts bobbing in their moorings (rsyc.org.uk).

4 Isle of Wight produce is also second to none: forage for its famous wild garlic (there’s even a festival dedicated to it each summer) or head to Ventnor Haven Fishery, where catches are bought in straight-off-the-hook every day.

GO 5

Cornwall may have the edge on English coastal fame, but if you have a soft spot for rugged beauties, set sail for the Isle of Wight. A 15-minute drive from the surfer’s beach of Compton Bay, Brook Down is a well-kept local secret, with rolling views down to the mainland coast, and a panoramic sunset unlike any other. For something a bit different, head across the water for some birdwatching in Hampshire. Beginning at Tanners Lane, the tramp along the path from Lymington to Keyhaven offers potential sightings of wild avocets and spoonbills.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CHEWTON GLEN NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE

One of the country’s finest hotels, Chewton Glen has seamlessly moved with the times since it opened over half a century ago.

The eight-bedroom house, where Captain Marryat wrote The Children of the New Forest, has gradually expanded to become a 72-room bastion of luxury, with gorgeous bedrooms, lavish spa, croquet lawn, children’s club and a nippy nine-hole golf course that will excite golfers with the lowest of handicaps. With an open format grill menu that ranges from light dishes to splendid silver trolleys bearing meats and cheeses, The Dining Room stretches across five delightful rooms. Complementing the main house restaurant is The Kitchen, an informal restaurant and purpose-built cookery school, created in association with chef James Martin and set within the 130-acre estate. Set in England’s green and pleasant land, 14 extraordinary, tranquil treehouses built on stilts can be found in the grounds, as well as 70 thriving bee hives, a spectacular newly-refurbished spa and a purpose-built kid’s club called The Beehive. You may well leave Chewton Glen with green fingers.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland, where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley. When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands off our public bar’. ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me,’ he says. For a plain room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right.

For some of the best food in the New Forest – it has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms – in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings.

Breakfast is spot on, too.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

FOUR SEASONS, HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE

It’s hard to believe you’re only an hour from London at the Four Seasons’ only UK country hotel. Set amid 500 acres of the Dogmersfield Park Estate, you can watch the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the coolly sophisticated bedrooms (including a beautiful Martin Brudnizki-designed Royal Suite with its own private terrace). It’s easy to lose yourself in the grounds, playing croquet, fishing or cycling, while children can be kept busy at the Kids’ Playground or the hotel’s family adventure pool, Sharkie’s Reef, complete with a four-metre slide.

Located in the Manor House’s original 18thcentury stable block, the large, light-filled spa, 20m adult pool and outdoor vitality pool all feel far removed from the modern-day stresses of everyday life. Service is exemplary, and the food is everything you would expect from Four Seasons. Wild Carrot, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, makes the perfect setting for memorable meals. For a quintessentially British afternoon tea, head for the library. Sunday lunch is a highlight, featuring entirely local produce from the heart of Hampshire. Go on, treat yourself.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com/hampshire

THE GEORGE YARMOUTH, ISLE OF WIGHT

The location could not be more stunning: right on the water’s edge between the castle and the pier in bustling Yarmouth. A short ferry hop from Lymington on the mainland (with sea vistas that are second to none), this 17th-century townhouse, most famously frequented by King Charles II, has recently been extensively refurbished under new ownership, and is now the hip boutique retreat on the island. Seventeen characterful and airy bedrooms house fabulously luxurious beds, many of which look out to sea or the harbour. Waking up to the gentle lapping of waves is always a treat. Its new Italian-inspired beachfront garden, with a driftwood-clad bar nicknamed Fin & Tonic and an outdoor kitchen, offers al-fresco dining at its best.

It’s a perfect spot to soak up the view: a canon on a battlement, the charming pier and the Solent stretching across to the Lymington River, with its needle-like forest of masts bunched in the distance. And inside, don’t miss the freshest seafood at The Conservatory restaurant, a family-friendly brasserie with uninterrupted views of the Solent.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1983 760331; thegeorge.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 63

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, The Hambrough benefits from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. This boutique island hotel has seven individually designed rooms to choose from; all are fresh, light and airy, some with balconies looking across the English Channel.

If you are after something more private, then there is a charming cottage for four and a lovely town house, which sleeps ten, available to you, with original features but modern amenities. Head chef Ashley Randle is at the helm in the restaurant where his experience of working with some of the country’s culinary masters, together with ideas from different cultures, have been the inspiration behind his innovative modern European menu, which has quickly garnered a faithful following. The small, friendly staff gives The Hambrough a family-run feel, adding to its charm without compromising on service. On the southern tip of the Isle of Wight and sheltered by St Boniface Down to the north, this is one of the sunniest spots in the UK and a great place for a seaside escape.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com

HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE

Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this new country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim in the lake, picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own soon-to-be certified biodynamic greenhouses, market garden and farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and flop-down homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak floors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heckfield Place, once home to Charles Shaw-Lefevre, who became Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic (fine 20th-century English pictures from the owning Chan family's private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining (The Assembly is its curated programme of films and events). There’s also a discreet wellness spa, and the authentic and delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Marle and Hearth restaurants, plus afternoon tea in the beautiful Glass House. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original Signature Rooms.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)118 932 6868; heckfieldplace.com 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this ravishing, deeply luxurious New Forest lair. Oak doors are thick, paint finishes fresh and soft floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent bedroom. Stylised sitting rooms melt one into another, pale lemon into sage green, each with an open fire. In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, take in forest views from the massive sauna and eat inspired raw food in the Raw & Cured café. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett, and the hotel’s own chef, Luke Holder. Italianinfluenced forest dishes and sharing plates are served in gorgeous, warmly coloured, laid-back surroundings. The glamour is there, but the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the mood. And as for the hotel’s Lake Cabin? It has to be one of the most romantic hideaways in the country.

Doubles from £395 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

Five years ago, young hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America, an openplan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.comw 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 65

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NEW PARK MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

The 17th and 21st centuries fuse impeccably at this New Forest hotel, part of the Luxury Family Hotels collection. The manor was Charles II’s favourite hunting lodge and still has its original fireplaces, panelling and oak leaf-patterned doors, alongside all the contemporary comforts that you – or your children – could possibly need. The 25 bedrooms are divided between the manor and a modern wing, which also houses an indoor pool and award-winning Elemis spa with a hot tub, pool and thermal rooms.

While you unwind here, babies and toddlers can be cared for in the crèche (two free hours are offered daily), and older children might watch a movie at the on-site cinema or play games in the extensive gardens. For active families, there’s an outdoor pool and plenty of walks and cycle trails through the surrounding forest – take a picnic and make a day of it. The hotel provides all sorts of equipment, from bed guards to bottle warmers, and a listening service so that parents can enjoy a stress-free, grown-up dinner in the sophisticated Stag restaurant.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1590 623467; newparkmanorhotel.co.uk

NORTH HOUSE WEST COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT

It’s well worth the short, steep climb from the High Street to the top of Sun Hill and this engaging 19th-century, grade II-listed townhouse, Cowes’ very first boutique hotel.

Apart from the splendid sea views (best from some of the bedrooms), North House has been sympathetically restored and decorated with flair. Public rooms and bedrooms sport tasteful Farrow & Ball wallpaper or paint, with a nod to the nautical here and there.

The 14 bedrooms come in three categories: cosy, comfy and spacious, though even the ‘cosies’ are a good size. They have everything you could want and more, including Roberts radios, hair straighteners and Ren products (some also come with wood-burning stoves or freestanding bath tubs). There’s a distinct emphasis on the fruits of the sea on the menu in the relaxed restaurant, which blends rustic and seaside chic with its scrubbed wooden furniture, white tongue-and-groove walls and photographs of boats. From March to late October, the heated outdoor pool is open and the dining terrace and cloistered garden come into their own.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1983 209453; northhousecowes.co.uk 66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE PIG – AT BROCKENHURST BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of The Pig. Here, it’s an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce.

Indeed, this abundant patch was the inspiration for the original concept of The Pig and its subsequent drove of hotels in the rustic Home Grown Hotels sty (see pages 42, 44, 79). This handsome Georgian shooting lodge stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on offer. There’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard.

Calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys.

Bedrooms include fun family rooms and rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed. Inside?

You will be charmed. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If The Pig – at Brockenhurst is the country house, then this is its town house cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton, charmingly embraced by the city’s defensive walls. It’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics.

In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, boil-your-own eggs and the peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian countrystyle kitchen-cum-parlour. For lunch you can graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as reception, too. Later you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, jump into the hotel’s Land Rover for a free ride home to a delicious dinner at The Pig. Once you're settled back at The Wall for the night, you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 67

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Marie Davey, Poppy Sunrise, Houghton, West Sussex.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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The Home Counties The home of UK wine making, arty seaside towns and quintessentially English vistas, the Home Counties are an enthralling collection of regions that are all entirely unique

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Annoushka Ducas From ancient forests to sunset boat trips, the jeweller shares some of her sources of design inspiration away during the height of the Profumo scandal.

Quick bite? The café at Pallant House

Gallery, Chichester (pallant.org.uk).

Languorous lunch? I like Southsea Beach Café for a very relaxed and low-key lunch (southseabeachcafe.co.uk).

Favourite walk? I adore a walk on West Wittering beach at low tide, walking all the way around to East Head with the dogs. It’s just gorgeous.

Decent pint? My husband’s pub The Horse and Groom in East Ashling, although I am more likely to order a G&T! You can also stay the night in one of the ten bedrooms and have a delicious meal in the newly opened restaurant – both of which I had the pleasure of doing the interior design for (thehorseandgroom.pub).

Spot of romance? An early evening boat trip around Chichester Harbour.

History hit? Visit Bosham Church – as featured in the Bayeux tapestry.

Culture vulture? Pallant House Gallery in Chichester has the best in 20th-century British art (pallant.org.uk).

From the madding crowd? You just have to visit Dave’s Ice Cream Van in Bosham for the most delicious Italian vanilla ice cream, but don’t leave your car on the quay as they have been known to be washed away by the tide...

Local gossip? Christine Keeler retreated to the secluded cottage next to The Horse and Groom pub in East Ashling to hide

You absolutely must…

Watch a film at the drive-in cinema on the Goodwood racetrack, which usually opens in July. Take some drinks and nibbles and cosy up on a balmy summer’s evening (goodwood.com).

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… You certainly

won’t make any friends if you speed into the harbour.

Take away? Molecomb Blue cheese from Goodwood’s fabulous farm shop.

Annoushka’s is a G&T

Sunset at Chichester Harbour

I have a fascination with miniatures, which I have collected throughout my life and have had a definite impact on the detail and articulation in my jewellery designs. Spencer Swaffer in Arundel is somewhere I love to hunt for treasures like this – it’s the best for antiques and eclectic finds (spencerswaffer.co.uk). Little London in Chichester is my go-to for original clothes from lesser-known design names (little-london.com).

Favourite garden? West Dean, especially the walled garden. Nature is a constant inspiration for my designs, so I will inevitably come home after visiting and have to make notes and scribbles before I forget what I’ve seen (westdean.org.uk).

Back to nature? Walking through Kingley Vale, an ancient yew forest looking back over Chichester Harbour. It reminds me of childhoods spent roaming the forest in Russia.

Family fun? We have four kids who are all grown up now, so we’re at that point where we can really enjoy great food and drink together. A picnic on the Trundle looking over Goodwood racecourse is a definite favourite when they’re home for the weekend. annoushka.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©DE FACTO

Shop till you drop?

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THE HOME COUNTIES

DO

The Home Counties boast beautiful and significant cities and areas of interest. Take St Albans , for example: a former Roman city dating back as far as 20 BC and home to St Albans Cathedral, known as the ‘shrine to Britain’s first saint’ (stalbanscathedral.org). The Savill Garden in Windsor Great Park is 35 acres of natural beauty, including a fragrant rose garden opened by Her Majesty in 2010 (windsorgreatpark.co.uk). Alternately, give little ones a literary history lesson they’ll love at Buckinghamshire’s Roald Dahl Museum (roalddahl.com) – frothbuggling fun guaranteed!

SEE

Encompassing rolling countryside, seaside towns and a number of historic estates, it’s no wonder the Home Counties have provided much inspiration, as well as a home, to many leading literary figures – much of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice takes place in Hertfordshire. On the opposite side of the river in East Sussex lies Monk’s House, Leonard and Virginia Woolf’s former country retreat, an historic 16th-century building now housing the writer’s art collection and belongings (nationaltrust.org. uk). Just a 45-minute drive away, you’ll also find Rudyard Kipling’s impressive former 2 home, Bateman’s (nationaltrust.org.uk).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

If hearty British food with a French twist is your forte, Flaunden’s secluded Bricklayers Arms – Hertfordshire’s Dining Pub of the Year according to The Good Pub Guide 2020 – will most certainly float your (gravy) boat. Think locally sourced fare, fresh produce and a comprehensive wine list featuring over 120 bottles (bricklayersarms.com). For all-day dining with a view, head to Brighton’s The Flour Pot Bakery, a rustic bakery-cum-dining spot situated on the seafront (theflourpot.co.uk). If it’s a high-end dining experience you’re after, you can’t go wrong with Reading’s Michelin-starred L’Ortolan. Opt for the head chef’s ten-course Menu Prestige for French-inspired dishes like assiette de lapin, foie gras with fig, and cep tortellini (lortolan.com).

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©DE FACTO

GO 4

The Hannah Peschar Sculpture Garden in Surrey is art and nature combined at its best; visit in summer where you’ll find over 200 works exhibited amongst the garden’s idyllic and verdant surroundings, like Iconii by David Begbie (left) (hannahpescharsculpture.com). Berkshire’s Cliveden Reach is another bucolic gem, branded by the National Trust as ‘one of the prettiest spots on the Thames’ (nationaltrust. org.uk). Also worth a visit is Cliveden Long Garden, an enchanting green space rich with florals, topiary and historic sculptures, including a fascinating pair of ancient Egyptian granite baboons (nationaltrust.org.uk).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX

The story of the Artist Residence group began ten years ago when Justin and Charlie Salisbury first met as students. Justin’s mum, who’d just bought a Brighton guesthouse in need of renovation, was seriously injured in an accident and 20-year-old Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he filled the listed townhouse with artists, asking them to decorate the rooms in return for free board. And so the first Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born. It was soon joined by three more, in Penzance (see page 36), Bristol (see page 50), Pimlico (see page 86) and Oxford (see below). The Brighton original has sea views and retro-style bedrooms ranging from tiny crash pads to a huge suite. Two new art bedrooms, designed by Ben Eine and Pure Evil, have just been unveiled, while artists Maria Rivans, Charlie Anderson, Fox Fisher and Jessica Albarn have designed four other fabulous rooms. There’s also the sparky Fix Bar for drinks and in the Set Restaurant next door chef Dan Kenny serves an inventive menu of hearty seasonal dishes.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidence.co.uk

ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners Justin and Charlie Salisbury. This energetic couple, complete with new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. There are now five stunning bedrooms upstairs and a further three suites in the stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper.

The restaurant features art by the Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow. The kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food in a fun and friendly setting. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance (page 36), Pimlico (page 86) Bristol, (page 50) or Brighton (see above), then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your country hideaway.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk 72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE HOME COUNTIES

BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A stroll across parkland from secluded Climping Beach, Bailiffscourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms ranging from medieval to contemporary in style, spread throughout a series of charming houses and cottages in the parkland. The newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. The more traditional – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The charming courtyard and rose garden is the ideal spot for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine.

The name Bailiffscourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13th-century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today.

Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk

BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

Beaverbrook is a magnificent addition to Britain’s crop of must-visit country house hotels. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played (several times) and it’s fabulous.

Originally Cherkley Court, the former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19thcentury wedding cake architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic, floral and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and his famous visitors, like Elizabeth Taylor and Rudyard Kipling. There’s Japanese cuisine in the dining room – try the incomparable black cod – stunning views across formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate including a treehouse for the kid’s club, and the separate brick and flint Garden House, offering a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant, cookery school and 11 bedrooms, bringing the total to 35. But the crowning glory is the new holistic Coach House Spa, designed by stained glass artist Brian Clarke, with bespoke skin products and treatments. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.

Doubles from £370 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 73

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timberframed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of our greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously GM at nearby Gravetye Manor (see page 76), mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food from chef Alex Jacquemin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud too. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many stunning gardens and vineyards nearby.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk

CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Can any other grand country house hotel match Cliveden? Set high above the Thames, in 376 acres of National Trust-owned land, this stately home was built in 1666 for the second Duke of Buckingham and became home to the Astor family in 1893. Its recent restoration has left it looking quite ravishing with 47 bedrooms that range from spectacular suites to deluxe doubles and include four with their own hot tubs. Let’s not forget Spring Cottage, hidden in the grounds – this beautiful three bedroom home sits on the banks of the River Thames and is the perfect retreat for the utmost in privacy and escapism. As for food, the choice includes gourmet dishes in the amazing Cliveden Dining Room or a more informal menu at the Astor Grill, both courtesy of talented executive head chef, Paul O’Neill. The unveiling of the fabulous new spa in 2017 added the final layer of icing to this very celebratory cake. Cliveden was built for entertaining and no one, from Churchill to Chaplin, could resist an invitation. Nor should you.

Doubles from £445 +44 (0)1628 607107; clivedenhouse.co.uk 74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE CRAB & LOBSTER SIDLESHAM, WEST SUSSEX

A place for all seasons, this delightful 350-yearold hideaway and sibling of Halfway Bridge see page 77) is stunningly located at Sidlesham Quay, a grassy expanse on the banks of Pagham Harbour nature reserve, once occupied by a tidal mill. Its views stretch to the distant sea across salt marsh and woodland, with a tracery of creeks. The four attractive, comfortable bedrooms in the renovated 16th-century pub, plus the two-bedroom Crab Cottage next door, are all decorated with stylish simplicity in restful pastel shades. In the top-floor eyrie, there are binoculars for a closer look at that remarkable view, and plenty of extras in all the rooms, from fridges to fresh flowers. Downstairs you’ll find slate floors, cream-painted and bare brick walls, smart contemporary furniture and an open fire. And dishes that are just right for the location: perhaps go for the baked devilled Selsey crab with pak choi, new potatoes, lemongrass and spring onion salsa, paired with a crisp white wine – perfect.

West Wittering beach, the cathedral city of Chichester and Goodwood Racecourse are all within easy reach.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1243 641233; crab-lobster.co.uk

THE GALLIVANT RYE, EAST SUSSEX

A while back The Gallivant decided it should be different. Not just a place to escape to but somewhere to reconnect with simple pleasures. To learn and experience new things.

A welcoming home from home that you leave not simply sated but intrinsically happier. The sand between your toes, and sky and beach as far as you can see. Wonderful food made with love, deeply comfortable beds. The Gallivant is only open to overnight guests and a handful of members, giving everyone space and an enhanced sense of hospitality. Staying the night here includes everything you could want and a little bit more. Fortifying breakfasts, morning elevenses, English wine hour at 5pm and an exquisitely simple dinner. Most of the 20 bedrooms open onto the private coastal garden where you’ll find the Beach Hut mini spa for a restorative treatment. And adjoining the hotel is the new Summer House, where there’s a daily timetable of classes in everything from yoga and pilates to English wine tasting, hosted by experts in the field. All the classes are free for guests, so you have everything to gain and nothing to lose.

Doubles from £313 all inclusive +44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 75

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GRAVETYE MANOR WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, when Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor and its famous gardens as a hotel. A classic of its kind, it’s now in the caring hands of Jeremy and Elizabeth Hosking, who have kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising it. Today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty staff, the profusion of naturally arranged flowers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. Andrew Thomason is the consummate general manager, while George Blogg’s Michelin-starred food, served in the stunning, glass-fronted dining room, is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the 35acre gardens – which were originally created in 1885 by visionary gardener William Robinson and are now considered some of the most historically important in England – have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. They are quite wonderful and transform lunch on the terrace into an unforgettable treat.

Doubles from £298 +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk

HARTWELL HOUSE VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you'd never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings. The Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning rococo ceiling by Thomas Roberts of Oxford. There's also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall – the king’s wife, Marie Joséphine of Savoie, had them removed because their candlelit shadows frightened her. If you think all this grandeur and history means pomp and ceremony, worry not.

As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (see page 150) and Middlethorpe Hall (see page 141), the hospitality is natural and easy-going, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand and the food as delicious as you would expect. And the hotel’s spa is a classically-themed delight.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com 76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE HALFWAY BRIDGE LODSWORTH, WEST SUSSEX

If you love the Crab & Lobster (see page 75) at Sidlesham (and who doesn’t?), then make tracks for its younger sibling in the South Downs National Park. Near Petworth, it stands back from the graceful, swooping A272, the only road we know to have had a book written about it: Ode to a Road, by Pieter Boogaart. Like the Crab & Lobster, the 250-year-old old inn has been immaculately restored by owners Sam and Janet Bakose, with seven exceptional bedrooms fashioned from a beamed stable block that overlooks a sunny lawn, with woods (watch out for deer) to the rear. The three standard rooms are just as alluring as the more expensive ones, of which No 5 is particularly lovely, with its part-timber, part-brick back wall. Back at the handsome inn, superior pub grub is served in a choice of intimate nooks that circle the central bar, with exposed brick walls, newly-revealed parquet floors, open fires and woodburners. Put simply, Sam and Janet have what it takes: good taste mixed with warmth, common sense and an assured, professional touch.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1798 861281; halfwaybridge.co.uk

HURLEY HOUSE HURLEY, BERKSHIRE

It’s the friendly, laid-back atmosphere of this boutique hotel, along with its immaculate and stylish decoration, that impresses as soon as you enter. A sensitive new build of 2016, it stands on the site of an old inn just outside the pretty riverside village of Hurley, within easy reach of the capital and with perfect terraces for outdoor dining. Inside, the ten country-chic bedrooms in delicate shades of pale grey are spotless, with a cosy feel that’s enhanced by floorboards, beams, blankets and fresh flowers. All abound with little luxuries, some have freestanding roll-top baths, and one Superior Room has its own patio. But what really makes Hurley House tick is the superb cooking, with a new Japanese menu that’s second to none in Berkshire (think miso-roasted cod with steamed rice and pickled ginger or teriyaki steak baguettes – simply divine), complemented by signature international dishes. You can eat in the rustic bar or in the restaurant, which are each tastefully done up in granite, leather, oak and natural brick.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1628 568500; hurleyhouse.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 77

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

OATLANDS PARK HOTEL WEYBRIDGE, SURREY

Oatlands Park Hotel is the site where King Henry VIII married Catherine Howard, and it remains a Tudor jewel in Surrey’s crown to this day – even more so, following a multimillion pound renovation, making it fit for any king or queen. Interiors reflect the rich history and splendour of the hotel, its Italianate style and glistening chandeliers exuding decadence from the moment of arrival. All rooms are elegant, spacious and supremely comfortable – our favourites overlook Broadwater Lake and the simply magnificent grounds, which are protected for their special historic interest.

The Mulberry restaurant has a similarly bucolic outlook, with far-reaching views over the Surrey countryside, while La Terrazza is the hotel’s newest addition, with a retractable roof and glass bi-folding doors that offer views over the lawns. What’s more, as one of the area’s most celebrated cocktail destinations, Bar 1509 takes you further into the night. With ten acres of gardens to explore, afternoon tea served daily, and a host of famous local attractions on offer, this is an ideal weekend retreat just a short drive from London.

Doubles from £109 +44 (0)1932 847242; oatlandsparkhotel.com

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST SUSSEX

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden.

If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, jacuzzi, walk-through rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck, guest lounge and café. As for the six knockout first-floor bedrooms – they pack a thoroughly modern punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs.

Doubles from £189 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk 78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE PHEASANT INN SHEFFORD WOODLANDS, BERKSHIRE

Looking for a stylish yet cosy escape that’s easy to reach from town? Here it is. Opened three years ago by charming young Jack Greenall, The Pheasant ticks all boxes.

Though just moments from the M4, the old drovers’ inn stands alone and feels properly rural, with uninterrupted views across the Berkshire Downs. Inside, thanks to the spoton taste of Jack and interior designer Flora Soames, it’s smart and sophisticated yet also intimate and warm in its racing green and red (the inn is much frequented by trainers and jockeys) with plenty of quiet, comfy corners despite the constant buzz at the bar. Upstairs, there are 11 immaculate, spoiling, incredibly good value bedrooms, full of thoughtful extras. As for chef Andy Watts’ superior pub grub, it’s spot on too: Scotch eggs like you’ve never tasted before, chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef to share and fabulous puddings. Jack has a hit on his hands, but he doesn’t stand still: now there’s a gorgeous new private dining room designed by Octavia Dickinson, already popular with shooting parties.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1488 648284; thepheasant-inn.co.uk

THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT

Every Pig in this magnificent drove has its own personality; the sixth, which opened last May, has a rock ’n’ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. The 29-bedroom, grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house, set in the Nailbourne valley outside Canterbury, sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, yet it also has a colourful recent past. The likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ CEO Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for effortless, laid-back chic.

As with every other Pig, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of the revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this new trough is pure clover: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.

Doubles from £145 + 44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 79

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb inn in the charming village Yattendon. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with deep sofas and a huge open fire. In summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Nick MacGregor’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous new glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden.

Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a four-tiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. After a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head thanin one of the ten light, airy bedrooms? A king-sized bed beckons, with luxury linens and gorgeous throws.

The newly refurbished bathrooms are stocked with beautiful Bramley products for that long soak.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk

THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

The Spread Eagle elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary, spoiling treats. In the fine, old-fashioned, oak-beamed dining room, earthenware basins dangle from the ceiling as a tangible reminder that here puddings are still presented to guests every Christmas using a prized recipe that dates back decades, just as tradition dictates. Yet the same coaching inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 100 different brands and 12 different tonics, plus garnishes from the garden. While the hotel’s main building dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of Midhurst’s historic market town, you will also find an impressive spa and indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. Plus, there’s a lovely lounge bar and conservatory where you can drink and dine, a terrace for relaxing and reading the papers, and bedrooms that are both chic and traditional, with crisp bathrooms. One sought-after room, the Queen Suite, has its own wig closet, while another has panelled walls hiding a secret passage reputedly used by fleeing smugglers.

Here, past and present live perfectly in-sync.

Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk 80 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE HOME COUNTIES

STOKE PARK STOKE POGES, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

If you don’t know it, privately owned Stoke Park provides one delightful surprise after another. First of all, it’s a historic house, built in the 1790s by James Wyatt for soldier, scholar and poet, John Penn. Secondly, it’s set in 300 acres, including beautiful water-filled grounds designed by Capability Brown and Humphry Repton and featuring a romantic bridge – all just 40 minutes from central London. Thirdly, it’s where the famous golf match from Goldfinger and the mini-break in Bridget Jones were filmed.

Fourthly, it’s two hotels, not one: choose from splendid traditional bedrooms in the Mansion or contemporary ones in the Pavilion. Fifthly, it comes with a championship golf course, amazing tennis facilities (the pre-Wimbledon Boodles Challenge is played here annually) and a quite wonderful spa. And last but not least, the staff are very welcoming and the food is excellent. Stoke Park became Britain’s first country club in 1908; now it’s open to all. Close to Pinewood Studios, it’s now a star of the silver screen in its own right too, featuring in numerous films and TV series, including The Crown.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1753 717172; stokepark.com

THE WATERSIDE INN BRAY, BERKSHIRE

This marvellous restaurant with rooms, owned and run by Chef Patron Alain Roux, has purred contentedly beside the Thames for a resounding 47 years. There's a waterfront terrace and an electric launch at guests’ disposal; the placid river, with the odd boat skulling by, instantly soothes. The inn's innate sense of occasion, as waiters prepare for the evening’s seamlessly orchestrated performance, reminds one of a bygone age.

As well as the unashamedly haute yet delicate cuisine, which has attracted the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars since 1985, the bedrooms and suites are beautifully kitted out: feminine and elegant in the French manner, and superbly kept under the watchful eye of general manager Frédéric Poulette. Breakfast in bed, served on crisp white linen, is no less a treat than dinner the night before. ‘Dedication and consistency,’ Alain Roux has said, ‘are the two qualities that make a great chef and a great restaurant.’ The Waterside Inn is the greatest of them all. The pretty village of Bray on Thames also makes a fantastic base to explore nearby Windsor, Ascot and Henley-on-Thames.

Doubles from £275 +44 (0)1628 620691; waterside-inn.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 81

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Edmond Terakopian, The Shard, London.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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London

The capital’s siren call has bewitched millions. But beneath its iconic landmarks, the true charm of London lies in discovering a city that’s uniquely yours

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Charlie Casely-Hayford From Notting Hill to Brick Lane, the designer takes us on a tour of his London haunts Patent Yellow’ drawing room from the museum (soane.org).

Culture vulture? The Place theatre in King’s Cross is what I consider the home of up-and-coming contemporary ballet and dance in London. It’s foremost a dance school but it also put on the most incredible performances (theplace.org.uk).

Local gossip? Head to Queen’s Yard one weekend in Hackney Wick for some fun warehouse parties if you want to let off some steam.

There’s always something different going on.

Quick bite? I would head to Ducksoup in Soho, an intimate and low-key restaurantwine bar (ducksoupsoho.co.uk). It has a relatively small sharing plate menu that changes daily and never disappoints with an incredible wine selection and relaxed ambience.

Languorous lunch? Spring at Somerset House is always my go-to for any indulgent lunches (somersethouse.org.uk). I’ve lost many long afternoons to the wonderful food there.

The tranquillity of everything, paired with Skye Gyngell’s exquisite food, makes it quite difficult to leave.

Decent pint? The Pride of Spitalfields just off Brick Lane is not the biggest of pubs but certainly has one of the best atmospheres around – it’s a good old-fashioned local boozer and there’s always an interesting mix of old-school local residents and the younger start-up and fashion industry crowd.

Spot of romance? One of my favourite hidden gems is a nameless door sandwiched between a kebab shop and a newsagent on Great Eastern Street. It leads you downstairs to a secluded Seventies Eastern Bloc-style bar with wonderfully innovative cocktails – it’s called Lounge Bohemia (loungebohemia.com).

History hit? Sir John Soane’s Museum is where I generally head for a little escapism.

I find something new every time I go there.

I’ve become so obsessed that one of the main rooms in our store is inspired by the ‘Turner’s

You absolutely must…

Head to Frank’s Café rooftop bar in Peckham for a great view of London and a good buzz (boldtendencies.com).

The waterfall in the Kyoto Garden, Holland Park

Lounge Bohemia: A hidden gem beneath Great Eastern Street

Londoners take queuing very seriously.

Take away? The bagels from the 24-hour bagel shop on Brick Lane, a stone’s throw from my house. It’s a proper institution. No frills – they do one thing and they do it very well.

Shop till you drop? Willer in Notting Hill is my favourite little black book spot. It’s a selection of objects, furniture, lighting and tableware curated by one of the best eyes around – Rebecca Willer (willer.co.uk).

Favourite garden? The Kyoto Garden in Holland Park is wonderfully tranquil. You can even spot the occasional peacock there.

Back to nature? I love going for long walks with my family through Lee Valley. It’s only 15 minutes from the buzz of Dalston but has a vast expanse of green running alongside the river that makes you feel wonderfully insignificant in the middle of the city.

Family fun? We head to the BFI Southbank for the events they put on alongside classic family films. For example, my daughter recently dressed up as the Little Mermaid for a sing-along there (bfi.org.uk). casely-hayford.com

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The locals wouldn’t like it if you… Bypassed a queue –

LONDON

DO

As well as being one of the most bustling and vibrant cities in the world, London boasts some quieter spots too. Petersham Nurseries in Covent Garden provides a slice of country respite at the heart of the West End – delight in seasonal flowers, antiques, and an Italian aperitivo at resident restaurant, La Goccia (petershamnurseries. com). For waterside quietude, browse books at Word On The Water, King’s Cross’ quirky bookshop – a century-old floating Dutch ‘bookbarge’ – that sells an eclectic array of new and pre-loved publications.

SEE

The ruined St Dunstan-in-the-East church sits quietly among the city buzz between Monument and Tower Hill stations. A former parish church ruined by the Second World War, the Grade I-listed building has been transformed into an enchanting and sequestered public garden. Another tucked-away treasure, Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden – a colourful, hidden courtyard of independent shops and restaurants – is also worth a visit, as is Columbia Road Market in Bethnal Green. Visit on a Sunday when the street is filled with flowers (columbiaroad.info).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

If you’re looking for a lesser-known market to frequent, Mayfair’s new Mercato Metropolitano , where you’ll find a range of worldinspired and sustainable gourmet delights within the recently renovated St Mark’s church, won’t disappoint (mercatometropolitano.com).

For a sit-down meal, head to The Summerhouse in Little Venice, a quaint canal-side restaurant serving up seafood with a view (thesummerhouse.co).

Enjoy a drink at The Churchill Arms in Kensington, an historic pub dating back to the 1700s and formerly frequented by Winston Churchill’s grandparents – hence the name. But it’s the pub’s striking floral façade that Londoners keep coming back for (churchillarmskensington.co.uk).

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

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Brimming with wildlife, ancient trees and deer, it’s no wonder that Richmond Park is a National Nature Reserve. Less explored is the Isabella Plantation, a woodland garden located at centre of the park filled with flowers, ponds and winding walkways (royalparks. org.uk). Retreat from the tourist traps of central London and discover the sanctuary of Dulwich’s Horniman Museum and Gardens, with its store of anthropological treasures from around the world and natural history exhibits. Plus an aquarium, butterfly house and animal walk with sheep, goats and alpacas (horniman.ac.uk).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA, SW3 2RJ

Discreet on the outside, dramatic and decadent within, 11 Cadogan Gardens, a member of Relais & Châteaux, is formed of four interconnected Victorian townhouses and was built by Lord Chelsea in the late 19th century. With a fabulous location in such a prestigious area, the hotel became vastly popular as a home for travelling Victorian aristocrats, politicians and bon viveurs. The entrance to this distinctive Chelsea hotel has a sense of theatre with its leather and dark wood panelling and low lighting. The drama continues up the portrait-lined staircase to 56 individually decorated bedrooms and suites, some opulent and elegant, others more contemporary and feminine. The hotel still has the exclusive feel of the private members’ club it once was; the sophisticated Chelsea Bar can be enjoyed by residents until late and the fabulous gilded Mirror Room is perfect for private events. Its restaurant, Hans’ Bar & Grill, offers an all-day seasonal menu, rooted in British produce. After dining, step out onto Pavilion Road, a wonderful mews street lined with artisan food, and luxury boutiques.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com

ARTIST RESIDENCE PIMLICO, LONDON

The third hotel from the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie Salisbury – following their Artist Residences in Brighton (page 72) and Penzance (page 36) – was once just a down-at-heel local boozer. Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. On three elegant floors, it has ten comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds. There’s a moody and glamorous bar tucked away in the basement that comes alive at night, serving drinks inspired by cult movies like Kill Bill, which comes with a black vanilla sugar stripe, or The Departed, a cocktail so lethal it’s limited to two per person. And taking centre stage is the Cambridge Street Kitchen, a welcoming social space by day, serving brunch, cold-pressed juices and Workshop coffee, which transforms into a modern restaurant at night. Even better, a separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check-in at the bar.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)20 3019 8610; artistresidence.co.uk 86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

THE ATHENAEUM MAYFAIR, W1

Since its beginnings in 1850 as the elegant mansion of Henry Pelham-Clinton, sixth Duke of Newcastle, The Athenaeum has continually reinvented itself. The awardwinning, family-run hotel is located in the heart of bustling Mayfair, opposite Green Park, and is the perfect base from which to explore the capital’s best-loved landmarks.

The hotel epitomises five-star luxury with an independent spirit and, being surrounded by hidden gems, affords guests the opportunity to marvel at parts of London undiscovered by most visitors. It has benefited from a beautiful, design-led transformation of all its public spaces, including newly launched rooms and private residences that exude English charm and celebrate the hotel’s Art Deco past (it was restyled in the 1930s).

The View, occupying the hotel’s top floor, is a sumptuous space for residents to relax with panoramic vistas of the London skyline. From afternoon tea to intimate private dinners, dining at The Athenaeum champions British produce with seasonal menus to delight all palates.

Doubles from £305 +44 (0)20 7499 3464; athenaeumhotel.com

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (see pages 93 and 96) it was inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens in a grand style. The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books and fine paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel. Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with antique carved beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period fittings.

Nods to the 21st-century are discreetly hidden.

Your most difficult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our choice is the Tapestry Room, with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits (plus a cocktail recipe book) and French doors that open onto a quiet courtyard.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 87

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR, W1

It was always going to be great. The first hotel from restaurant supremos Corbin & King was a glossy, stylish hit from the moment it opened in 2014. Many Hotel of the Year awards later – and now under new ownership – it is still private and still independent. The Beaumont is a classy joint (chequerboard lobby floor, early 20th-century paintings, gleaming antiques) yet also intimate. The muralled Colony Grill Room is relaxed, sophisticated, New York-style dining at its best, serving timeless transatlantic classics, while the walnut-panelled, book-lined Magritte Bar is the place to be seen for predinner cocktails (live jazz sessions take place three nights a week). The 50 art deco-themed rooms and 23 suites are handsome, sensible and supremely comfortable: the showstopper is Antony Gormley’s ROOM, a three-storey architectural extension and public artwork from the outside, and an extraordinary onebedroom suite of dark fumed oak within.

There’s also the added luxury of the 1920sstyle Hamam and Spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at the RAC Club in London and the original New York YMCA. Doubles from £470 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL CHELSEA, SW1

A stand out on Sloane Street, midway between Chelsea and Knightsbridge, Belmond Cadogan’s sleek and glamorous good looks may recall well-heeled Knightsbridge, but its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is here too. In bold check uniforms that reference Mary Quant, books and author talks curated by beloved Chelsea bookshop John Sandoe, specially commissioned art from young artists, and recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the restaurant. This is the domain of Chef Patron Adam Handling, who presides over modern yet imaginative British cuisine.

The Cadogan first opened in 1887, but a recent makeover means bedrooms and suites are stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables that double as desks and statement paintings from female British artists. They took their inspiration from the private gardens opposite – and so can you, for guests get keys, a wonderful perk.

Doubles from £470, room only +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

THE BERKELEY KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON

One of London’s iconic hotel names, The Berkeley has an excellent Knightsbridge address and is all the rage with A-listers.

Together with Claridge’s (see page 91) and The Connaught (see page 92), it’s part of the Maybourne Hotel Group, and is both welcoming and luxurious. It started life in the 1700s as a Piccadilly coffee house, became a hotel in 1897 and moved to its present location in 1972. While the Richard Rogers-designed façade allows guests to make an entrance, the interior is all understated elegance, from the enveloping rooms and suites with bathrooms of the finest Italian marble to the famous Blue Bar. A mouthwatering breakfast is served in the Collins Room, while the Berkeley Bar & Terrace is a supremely stylish spot for vintage champagne and decadent cocktails – book in to the powder pink Snug with its own sound system for on-the-button service. Nor should you miss Marcus Wareing’s modern European cooking in the chic, Michelin-starred Marcus restaurant or the hotel’s famous Prêt-à-Portea catwalk cakes at afternoon tea.

Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7235 6000; the-berkeley.co.uk

BINGHAM RIVERHOUSE RICHMOND, LONDON

Evoking the feel of a private members’ club, this intimate riverside idyll is as convivial as it is stylish. It began life as two Georgian townhouses and from 1899-1910 it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’.

Crikey. Today, the friendliest of staff serve food from the kitchen of Steven Edwards at Bingham Riverhouse (winner of MasterChef: The Professionals) in the parlour, with its striking modern art and verdant views, and the library with its wall lined rows of nicely dog-eared old Penguin paperbacks – 2,816, to be precise..

The drawing room bar has a spacious feel of a country house kitchen. There’s 15 rooms, all with handmade Naturalmat beds and some with copper freestanding baths. But it’s the bucolic Richmond setting and the view that adds that extra magic: the river is just at the end of the terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats and pleasure crafts splash by all day. And, of course, London is on your doorstep.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; thebingham.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 89

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BLOOMSBURY BLOOMSBURY, WC1

A cherished member of The Doyle Collection, an exclusive Irish hotel group that also includes The Kensington and The Marylebone in London, and The Westbury in Dublin (see pages 93, 95 and 169), The Bloomsbury is a sympathetic conversion of a Grade II-listed 1930s Lutyens building just a few minutes’ walk from Soho and Covent Garden. Following a multimillion pound investment, the transformation includes a new reception area and luxury studio suites with vintage-style upholstery, statement wallpaper and Italian marble bathrooms. There’s also a library dedicated to Seamus Heaney, comfortable guest sitting room and a stunning, chandeliered 1920s-style bar, The Coral Room, created by the acclaimed Swedish designer, Martin Brudnizki. The hotel’s ever-popular Dalloway Terrace is an enchanting, colourful indoor-outdoor restaurant known for its afternoon tea, while the wonderfully intimate, wood-panelled Bloomsbury Club Bar is a must for a pre- or post-prandial drink with live music most evenings. There’s a sense of calm in this hotel and an understated elegance that shields guests against the hubbub of the outside world.

Doubles from £306 +44 (0)20 7347 1000; doylecollection.com

BROWN’S HOTEL MAYFAIR, W1

Archetypally British, with a hint of the unexpected, Brown’s was founded by Lord Byron’s butler in 1837 as London’s very first hotel. In the heart of Mayfair, this five-star delight has all the history and gravitas but none of the pomp or flashiness of some of its rivals.

The rooms and suites have been curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, Sir Rocco Forte, each paying tribute to the hotel’s illustrious heritage and charm. The Kipling Suite honours Rudyard Kipling, who famously penned The Jungle Book while staying here. In the awardwinning Drawing Room (where Queen Victoria became an early fan of Brown’s afternoon tea) original panelling sits easily with modern art from neighbouring Mayfair galleries. The famous Donovan Bar, in honour of celebrated photographer Terence Donovan, features a 1960s-inspired cocktail menu created exclusively by ‘Maestro’ Salvatore Calabrese, while Charlie’s at Brown’s offers a unique dining menu of seasonal dishes, headed up by head chef Adam Byatt of Michelin-starred Trinity. There’s even a luxurious subterranean spa offering an exclusive range of Irene Forte products.

Doubles from £510 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com 90 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

CLARIDGE’S MAYFAIR, LONDON

Do you love giving special gifts? Then pop Claridge’s in a presentation box, tie it up with red ribbon and give it – for a night or two – to someone you love. We can guarantee it’ll be one of the best gifts they’ve ever had.

Claridge’s has always had cachet. But while it used to be the staid and stately base for visiting royalty, today it is a spirited mix of the glittering and gracious, hip and dignified, all underpinned by it superb service. As part of the Maybourne Group that includes The Connaught (page 92) and The Berkeley (page 89), it’s the attention to detail that makes it sing. From the moment you push through the revolving door, past celebrity-spotting photographers, into the marble-floored front hall to the wrought-iron lift complete with attendant, it just keeps giving. And that’s before you’ve even reached your elegant room or suite, or seen the Art Deco bathrooms, or the Fumoir’s 1930s jewel box bar, or the superb Davies and Brook restaurant by Daniel Humm.

If ever there was a hotel that felt like the ultimate treat, it’s Claridge’s right now, at the pinnacle of its 200-year history.

Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7629 8860; claridges.co.uk

COMO THE HALKIN BELGRAVIA, SW1

Can a hotel corridor be seductive? It can here. From the lift you navigate a graceful arc of black-painted strips of wood in which bedroom doors are all but invisible as gently curving walls give the impression of infinite depth, and create a zen mood of unhurried calm. Throughout, bespoke Italian design is combined with subtle Asian nuances.

Contemporary, cosseting rooms are furnished with soft carpets and warm wood panelling, and have some of the largest bathrooms in London. Guests can sign up for yoga and personal training sessions or work-out in the gym; pampering in-room COMO Shambhala therapies and spa treatments can be arranged.

The Halkin Bar, just off the lobby, is the place for a Basque-inspired afternoon tea or delicious tapas supper. Located on a quiet residential street in Belgravia, the boutiques of Mayfair and Knightsbridge are a ten-minute walk away and Hyde Park is just round the corner.

COMO The Halkin remains effortlessly stylish and those casting about for a spoiling, impeccably designed London base should look no further.

Doubles from £390 +44 (0)20 7333 1000; comohotels.com/thehalkin 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 91

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE CONNAUGHT MAYFAIR, LONDON

How we love The Connaught. It has always been a special, very British place and now, as part of the Maybourne Group (see Claridge’s, page 91, and The Berkeley, page 89), it’s both a home from home and a glamorous destination, with superbly orchestrated service. While the magnificent mahogany staircase compels guests not to take the lift, treats don’t come better than a martini in the seductive, buzzing Connaught Bar. Or take home a limited-edition, hand-inscribed bottle of the bar’s very own gin distilled in house by master mixologist Agostino Perrone.

Since 2008 The Connaught has been home to the two-Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze restaurant, where the ravishing dishes are perfectly complemented by Pierre Yovanovitch’s sophisticated, colourful interiors. There are many pleasures: taking breakfast at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant overlooking Tadao Ando’s specially commissioned water feature in Carlos Place; Tom Stuart-Smith’s Moon Garden; the peerless rooms and suites, and not forgetting the blissful subterranean sanctuary that lies beneath the lobby – the first Aman Spa outside an Aman resort. A great hotel in its prime.

Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7499 7070; the-connaught.co.uk

DORSET SQUARE HOTEL MARYLEBONE, NW1

The first of Firmdale’s vibrant and welcoming city hotels, opened in 1985 by multi-talented husband and wife team Tim and Kit Kemp. Like their Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 94) and Number Sixteen (see page 95), it’s a beautiful London townhouse, in this case Regency, with some gentle decorative reminders that it overlooks the site of Thomas Lord’s first cricket ground, Dorset Square. There are cricket bats arranged like works of art, miniature balls used as wardrobe door handles, photographs and cartoons of famous cricketers and other memorabilia, all incorporated into Kit’s sophisticated interiors.

Her style is witty, contemporary and bold, combining strong colours and contrasting fabrics, enhanced by exciting modern art.

There’s an elegant drawing room with an honesty bar and fireplace, and 38 seductive bedrooms, many overlooking the private Dorset Square garden, to which guests have access. The Potting Shed restaurant serves exceptional modern British food, with a clever lighting installation

by Martha Freud. Ask reception supervisor Edyta Gurgul for her insider tips on local shopping and what’s on at the theatre.

Doubles from £300 +44 (0)20 7723 7874; firmdalehotels.com 92 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

HAZLITT’S SOHO, LONDON

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986.

A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift.

As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart. The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and prints, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings in the bathrooms. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (page 87 and page 96), they are delightfully different from other London hotels. And don’t forget to greet Sir Godfrey, the hotel’s resident cat, who still hasn’t checked out after nine years.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

THE KENSINGTON SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

What a great address, in an attractive and central part of London that so far hasn’t been noted for its hotels; at least, not until spot-hitting ones like this Doyle Collection model from the familyowned luxury group that also owns London’s The Marylebone and The Bloomsbury hotels, and The Westbury in Dublin (see pages 95, 90 and 169). Its chairman, Bernie Gallagher, oversaw the interior design to make it feel like a beautiful private residence. Comfortable, sophisticated, but never try-hard, you can eat and drink in the homely Town House restaurant or in the K Bar, which offers signature cocktails and bar bites and do not miss out on the acclaimed London Landmarks afternoon tea. The public drawing rooms are stylish yet relaxing and there are 150 beautifully decorated bedrooms and suites including two sumptuous signature suites.

If you want to explore, there are Pashley bikes to pedal around the capital, with baskets for carrying a picnic – a typically thoughtful touch – and partnerships with local institutions such as the nearby Victoria & Albert Museum and the Royal Albert Hall, which allows special access to exclusive VIP tickets and packages.

Doubles from £330 +44 (0)20 7589 6300; doylecollection.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 93

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

KNIGHTSBRIDGE HOTEL KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Tim and Kit Kemp, owners of Firmdale Hotels, have the knack of creating places to stay that not only look fabulous but are also easy-going and smoothly run; Knightsbridge Hotel is no exception. An imposing house in a quiet tree-lined cul-de-sac and the ideal canvas for their skills (see also Dorset Square Hotel, page 92, Number Sixteen, page 95, and The Soho Hotel, page 97). Kit has designed the interior with typical panache, using vivid colours, specially designed fabrics, original British art and statement furniture.

There are two public rooms downstairs, the drawing room and library, each with a working fireplace. A fireside tea is a winter treat. The 44 bedrooms and suites upstairs are all as fresh and lovely to look at as to sleep in, with thoughtful extras such as iPhone docking stations. For a special occasion, book the stunning open-plan Knightsbridge Suite, with its triptych of floor-length windows. No restaurant, but there’s 24-hour room service.

Top marks for the location too, just minutes from Harrods, Harvey Nichols and the boutiques on Sloane Street.

Doubles from £318 +44 (0)20 7584 6300; firmdalehotels.com

LIME TREE HOTEL BELGRAVIA, SW1

It’s rare to find an affordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia.

But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse, which is spread across two grade II-listed townhouses, from Charlotte’s parents more than a decade ago. After a major six month refurbishment this year, this delightful bolthole has 28 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms each with pretty geometric patterned cushions and a Roberts Radio, and Bramley goodies in the bathroom.

There’s also a new cosy guest lounge and The Buttery, a café-style restaurant (open to the public) full of chatter where friendly staff serve up delicious breakfasts and an allday menu of light lunches, homemade cakes and savoury treats. When the weather allows, relaxing outside in the peaceful walled garden feels like having discovered a magical secret oasis, a whole world away from the heady bustle of nearby Sloane Square.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk 94 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

THE MARYLEBONE MARYLEBONE, W1

Which born-and-bred Londoners would have dreamed that Marylebone, an area once dusty and overlooked, could become such a chic and lively quarter, full of quirky, stylish shops, restaurants and cafés? And at its heart this cosmopolitan community has The Marylebone, a great place for breakfast, lunch, or dinner in its sassy 108 Brasserie with red leather upholstery – also perfect for a catch-up drink at the bar with a friend. Sister to The Bloomsbury and The Kensington hotels (see page 90 and 93), as well as the The Westbury in Dublin (see page 169), The Marylebone’s refurb has added a new lobby cocktail bar, seasonal lounges, including an outdoor Summer Terrace, and sparkling new party and event spaces – The Marylebone Rooms and Number Six. Three spectacular rooftop Terrace Suites, each with retractable roof, television and fireplace, offer Mary Poppins-esque views over the chimney pots of Marylebone and Mayfair, all the way to The Shard and beyond. Add in the on-site Third Space gym and the indoor pool, and The Marylebone has it all.

Doubles from £306 +44 (0)20 7486 6600; doylecollection.com

NUMBER SIXTEEN SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

In a mid-Victorian white stucco terrace, Number Sixteen is one of Firmdale’s townhouse hotels, which include Dorset Square Hotel (see page 92) and Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 94). Decorated by founder and creative director Kit Kemp in her inimitable, contemporary, eclectic style, it’s full of bold colours, joyful collisions of pattern and hand-picked artworks. The result: your spirits are lifted the moment you walk inside. The ground-floor rooms are flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows and include two drawing rooms, a library with an honesty bar, and an Orangery, leading to a beautifully designed and leafy garden – a rare treat, and one of London’s best-kept secrets. In summer this is the spot for relaxing with drinks, nibbles and friends. Number Sixteen has just 41 rooms, but the facilities of a larger luxury hotel are in place – 24-hour room service, valet and concierge. It’s also a stylish place to eat: all meals, including afternoon tea are served in the Orangery. There’s no spa, but you can request an in-room therapist from Firmdale’s nearby Soholistic Spa at Ham Yard.

Doubles from £336 +44 (0)20 7589 5232; firmdalehotels.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 95

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PORTOBELLO HOTEL NOTTING HILL, W11

In room 16, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp filled the Victorian bath with champagne, Alice Cooper kept his snakes in it, and Tim Burton flooded the room by leaping from the bed into the bath and back again. The Stones, U2, Tina Turner and many other starry names from music, fashion and showbiz also stayed at The Portobello in its heyday. A few years ago it was given a new lease of life by Peter and Jessica Frankopan of A Curious Group of Hotels, which includes Cowley Manor (see page 103), L’Hôtel in Paris and Canal House in Amsterdam. Today’s look encapsulates the bohemian spirit of Portobello Road in the Swinging Sixties and that famous bed and bath are still there, among many other items from the hotel’s decadent past. Rooms, however, have been brought forward and the decoration judiciously updated using bold colours. Even the minute attic rooms have been cleverly enlarged. There’s no restaurant but breakfast in bed and sharing boards in the sitting room are on offer, as well as an honesty bar with antique crystal glasses from Portobello Market.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)20 7727 2777; portobellohotel.com

THE ROOKERY CLERKENWELL, LONDON

Those in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books.

In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-do-wells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky floors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only moments away from St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tate Modern.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LONDON

ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

Since its opening in 2013, Rosewood has risen effortlessly to the highest echelons of London’s luxury hotels, combining English heritage with contemporary sophistication. The grade II-listed Belle Époque building has been sensitively renovated, with the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought irongated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard, with its majestic, intricately-scrolled stone facades while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. The work of two designers, Tony Chi created the splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance, the jewel box Mirror Room restaurant and 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites.

Martin Brudnizki designed both the Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with innovative cuisine and a trendy gin bar – and the wildly popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with a collection of paintings by satirist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s head chef and pastry expert Calum Franklin’s Pie Room, dedicated to that most iconic of British dishes. Every suite comes with a dedicated butler, and service throughout is faultless.

Doubles from £400 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london

THE SOHO HOTEL SOHO, W1

This punchy and exciting, yet deeply comfortable and welcoming, Firmdale hotel is tucked away on a quiet street in the heart of London’s characterful entertainment district, surrounded by some of its best restaurants, bars, cafés, theatre and nightlife. It’s full of bold statements that are typical of founder and creative director Kit Kemp: her eye for beauty, fun and colour starts with the ten foot bronze Fernando Botero cat in the lobby, which has become something of a Firmdale symbol (see also Dorset Square Hotel, page 92, Knightsbridge Hotel, page 94, and Number Sixteen, page 95). As well as the drawing room, a quirky take on a private London residence where light floods in and a bartender brings round the gin trolley every afternoon, you’ll find a library, screening room and film club. Plus there’s the Refuel restaurant and bar, with its wonderful motoring mural (the hotel was built on the site of a former NCP car park) and electric atmosphere. The 96 bedrooms, including suites, are blissfully comfortable and full of personality, with floorto-ceiling warehouse-style windows.

Doubles from £402 +44 (0)20 7559 3000; firmdalehotels.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 97

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The Cotswolds Although its winding lanes and chocolate-box villages will always retain their charm, it’s the bountiful local produce, fascinating historical houses and great independent shops that really make the Cotswolds an unmissable destination

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Ceri David Jones, Morning Woodlands, Woodcote, Oxfordshire.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Luke Edward Hall The artist on visiting garden idylls and shopping for antiques sisters (asthallmanor.com).

Local gossip? Gossip? We left that behind in London!

Local lore? As someone who is fascinated by folklore and stories of magic, I enjoy regular visits to the Rollright Stones. Legend has it they were created when a monarch and his courtiers were petrified by a witch.

You absolutely must… Visit the Slad Valley, particularly if you’re a Laurie Lee fan.

The Woolpack in Slad is the perfect pub, hands down.

And the food is incredible – think St John meets Noble Rot, with heavenly valley views and good local ale (thewoolpackslad.com).

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… Drove too fast down

Watch out for pheasants in the Cotswolds

Visit Asthall Manor, childhood home of the Mitfords, on one of its open days

our tiny country lanes – there are hundreds of pheasants.

Take away? Daylesford farm shop is full of great local produce (daylesford.com).

Shop till you drop? Tetbury is best for antiques. My two favourite shops are Brownrigg (brownrigg-interiors. co.uk) and Twig (twigltd.com). Cutter Brooks in Stowon-the-Wold is packed with a well-curated array of tableware, clothing and vintage finds (cutterbrooks.com).

Favourite garden? Painswick’s Rococo Garden with its fanciful follies (rococogarden.org.uk) and Rousham House and gardens. I could spend all day getting lost in William Kent’s Arcadian landscape (rousham.org).

Back to nature? When it gets hot enough, I love a dip in a secluded river spot.

Try close to the bridge over the Evenlode at Stonesfield.

Family fun? I want to pay the birds of prey a visit at Cotswold Falconry Centre (cotswold-falconry. co.uk). We do have a barn owl living in one of our outbuildings, but I’m yet to see him...!

Luke Edward Hall is designing The Little Bell at Soho Hotel Les Deux Gares in Paris, due Farmhouse has a small to open Sept 20; hoteldeuxgares.com; but delicious menu lukeedwardhall.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©IONA WOLFF; ©NANCY KAY; ©RANSOM PHOTOGRAPHY; ©JOHNNY HATHAWAY

Quick bite? I love The Straw Kitchen, part of Whichford Pottery in the village of Whichford.

The brilliant young team prepare food that is seasonal, locally sourced and boldly colourful.

We often go for breakfast on a Sunday, and we’ll leave with homemade jams and biscuits for the week (whichfordpottery.com).

Languorous lunch? I like The Swan at Ascott-under-Wychwood. It was revamped in 2019 and the art hanging on the walls is superb (countrycreatures.com).

Favourite walk? Through the picture-perfect village of Cornwell, which was remodelled

by Clough Williams-Ellis in the 1930s.

Decent pint? The Fox at Oddington. The staff are incredibly lovely and it’s a cosy spot to hide yourself away in (thefoxatoddington.com).

Spot of romance? Duncan [Campbell, the interior designer] and I are obsessed with the Little Bell in the courtyard of Soho Farmhouse. Meat and fish are cooked here on a grill or in a wood oven (sohohouse.com).

History hit? Chastleton House is an imposing Jacobean manor with beautiful, romantic gardens. It retains much of its unique spirit, but it feels magical, not contrived (nationaltrust.org.uk).

Culture vulture? Kelmscott Manor, the country retreat of Arts & Crafts designer William Morris, is very inspirational (sal.org.uk).

Far from the madding crowd? I adore Asthall Manor and its sublime gardens, which are open to visitors during On Form, a biennial sculpture show and on other occasional days, too. Asthall was the childhood home of the infamous Mitford

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THE COTSWOLDS

DO

The Cotswolds isn’t all chocolate-box cottages and thatched roofs.

Sezincote House is a 200-plus year-old Mogul Indian palace, set in lush gardens that include temples, grottoes, waterfalls and canals reminiscent of the Taj Mahal. It’s said to be the inspiration for the Brighton Pavilion (sezincote.co.uk). If you’re feeling more active, then get involved with the Dursley Walking Festival, held every October in the south Cotswold village of Dursley and offering guided walks through the beautiful surrounding countryside.

SEE

There are thousands of years of history waiting to be discovered in the Cotswolds. One of the oldest surviving monuments is the Belas Knap Long Barrow in Winchcombe, an impressive example of a Neolithic burial chamber(english-heritage.org.uk). Or if you fancy something a bit more modern, there’s the Chedworth Roman Villa to explore, with its well-preserved mosaic floors, bath house and fascinating hypocaust systems (nationaltrust.org.uk).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

2

An award-winning seafood restaurant, fishmonger and delicatessen, William’s in Nailsworth is the local foodie destination of choice. A Cotswold institution for 45 years, it sources its seafood daily from Scotland and the south-west coast (williamsfoodhall.co.uk).

Bibury trout is a local delicacy; catch your own at Bibury Trout Farm , before stocking up on supplies from its smokehouse and shop (biburytroutfarm.co.uk).

GO 3

Laurie Lee’s Cider with Rosie is an evocative memoir of a time now lost forever. However, you can still wander Lee’s beloved Slad Valley, the bucolic setting of the book, and even visit the author’s childhood home, Rosebank Cottages. Westonbirt Arboretum in Tetbury is another leafy landscape to explore, with 600 acres of woodland in total, home to 15,000 specimens of trees from all over the world (forestryengland.uk).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BELL INN LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE

Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th-century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. They reopened The Bell – a much-loved local in a picturesque village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks. ‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren. It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a nononsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood-fired fish, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and flagstoned room. The eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground floor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms.

You’ll be hard pushed to find a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn and arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and fishing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting.

Doubles from £69 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllangford.com

THE BRADLEY CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Whether you’re going to the races, spending a weekend at one of Cheltenham’s many science, jazz and literature festivals, or simply sightseeing and shopping, The Bradley will be your home from home. This lovely, honeyedstone Regency townhouse in the fashionable Montpellier district of Cheltenham has been a B&B since 2011 and was recently given a significant refurbishment by owners Peter and Lana de Savary. The resulting interior is elegant in style with beautifully curated antiques, paintings and objets d’art. There are ten lovely bedrooms, including one with a romantic four-poster and another in the Art Deco style. Two others are new, contemporary, dog-friendly rooms in the delightful courtyard garden. A friendly welcome from general manager, Kerrie Wilks, and an honesty bar in the beautiful drawing room are just some of the unique touches that make The Bradley stand out. It also holds an AA Breakfast Award: an excellent full English and numerous healthier options are on offer in the airy dining room or pretty courtyard. A real gem to discover for your next weekend escape.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1242 519077; thebradleyhotel.co.uk 102 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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COWLEY MANOR CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

From the outside it’s a stunning Italianate manor house set in classical cascade-filled grounds; inside it’s a flawless, hip hotel, with 21st-century good looks. And although the style is cool, the welcome from everhelpful staff is warm. After checking into your state-of-the-art room – in six categories with plenty for families – you can while away time playing pool in the padded leather billiards room, drinking in the funky bar or relaxing on the elegant stone terrace, a sun trap with fabulous views. If you’re inclined to go walking there are wellies by the front door or bicycles for those who want to feel the wind in their hair. Although the restaurant at Cowley Manor is in a magnificent panelled room, the atmosphere is relaxed and the menus (including for children) concentrate on robust, seasonal British food. Star of the show is the modernist, award-winning spa, C-Side, with its organic bath and skincare range, Green & Spring, and two pools. Cowley Manor is contemporary cool and elegant stone grandeur, seamlessly blended.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1242 870900; cowleymanor.com

DORMY HOUSE BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Hidden deep within the sprawling 400-acre Farncombe Estate, on a hill overlooking the picture-postcard village of Broadway, this 17th-century farmhouse-turned-boutique retreat underwent a £10 million renovation.

Inside, flagstone floors, plush sofas and stone fireplaces offer a home-away-from-home level of comfort – albeit in a grander setting. Its 39 cheerful bedrooms and suites are the exemplar of quintessential country living with a touch of Scandinavian style. Dormy House is also home to an internationally renowned spa, offering utter relaxation in the form of thermal suites, lavender infusion saunas and an outdoor fireside hot tub. As for food, graze on light bites at The Potting Shed Bar, or for heartier fare, try The Back Garden restaurant’s seasonal, sustainable menu of local, high-welfare meat and responsibly cultivated veg. You’re free to explore the beautiful Farncombe Estate, or a short drive takes you to the village of Broadway with its exquisite houses, regal inns, manicured lawns, and art galleries. For spectacular views of the surrounding countryside, a short hike will take you to Broadway Tower, an 18th-century folly.

Doubles from £269 +44(0)1386 852711; dormyhouse.co.uk 2020/21 COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 103

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored, sumptuous Cotswoldstone manor, bristling with turrets and towers, parts of which date back to 1500. In the 1830s it was home to Lord Ellenborough, former governor general of India – the influence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery. The peerless Nina Campbell has reinvented the interior, with 61 classically English bedrooms furnished with antiques, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and roll top baths in the bathroom. In the oak-panelled restaurant, service is discreet and food contemporary, sophisticated and delicious, while the more relaxed, pub-like Horse Box with its stunning, blue-painted bar serves up British classics with a twist such as wild boar burgers and fish and shellfish pie, alongside a terrific choice of cocktails. You can also pre-order a picnic hamper full of goodies to enjoy in the grounds.

There’s an outdoor pool, an intimate spa and a lovely rose-scented patio – as well as a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. Where better to stay during race meetings?

Doubles from £204 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com

FELDON VALLEY LOWER BRAILES, OXFORDSHIRE

There has been a par 71, 18-hole golf course at Feldon Valley for more than two decades, but it was only last year that accommodation was added to create a tranquil north Cotswolds retreat. Positioned parallel to the golf course, the 25 contemporary rooms are spread across four minimalist wood and glass lodges, as well as the main building, all linked by a raised boardwalk and with views out across the countryside. Some rooms come with a private veranda; others have floor-to-ceiling windows facing the woods and golf course beyond (larger groups can book an entire lodge). The spacious lounge area has glass doors that open onto a welcoming terrace with firepits and valley vistas – perfect for a leisurely leaf through the papers or a peaceful nightcap.

You can also enjoy relaxing spa treatments in the onsite Shepherd’s Hut. At dinner, choose between a four or seven-course modern British tasting menu in The Kitchen, or a more laidback affair in the bar, where light bites and house classics include a Portobello mushroom burger or cottage pie (all made using local produce and vegetables grown onsite).

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1608 685633; feldonvalley.co.uk 104 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE FISH BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Tucked away on the handsome Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds, alongside Dormy House (page 103) and Foxhill Manor (see below), The Fish Hotel is a boutique property with some extraordinary features. A recent £4 million revamp heralds the arrival of several new additions to the hotel: alongside new rooms and suites in The Coach House and Farmhouse, there are now three showstopping luxury treehouses accessed via rope bridge (perfect for a family escape) and a collection of five converted shepherd’s huts dotted around the grounds, with cosy double beds and freestanding baths. A stroll down the hill leads to Hook, the restaurant helmed by culinary director Martin Burge. Unusually for the Cotswolds, he’s introduced a delectable new maritime-inspired menu. Eat on the large paved terrace, or in the airy dining room, with an open kitchen for watching the skilled chefs at work. It’s a fabulous spot for families and dogs: alongside the cinema and children’s woodland playzone there is an agility course specifically for canines and – are you ready?

– an outdoor ‘dogtub’.

Doubles from £150 +44(0)1386 858000; thefishhotel.co.uk

FOXHILL MANOR BROADWAY, THE COTSWOLDS

Nestled deep within the scenic woodland of the Farncombe Estate, this majestic Arts & Crafts manor was originally a private house, and retains that intimate feel to this day. The sister hotel to Dormy House (see page 103) and The Fish (see above), it’s an intimate spot that strives to retain that easygoing atmosphere of home, with an ‘whatever you fancy, wherever you fancy’ attitude and exemplary service.

There’s eight glamorous suites to choose from, all offering sumptuous rooms with retro-chic furnishings, four-poster beds and views of the rolling countryside outside. Instead of a restaurant you’re invited to chat through your foodie desires with accomplished head chef Richard Thorpe, who will make your dinner to order – cocktails and pantry snacks also appear at a moment’s notice. On the estate, outdoor activities like clay pigeon shooting (for groups only) can be arranged, and in the valley below the thoroughly Cotswolds village of Broadway is a must-visit with its galleries, food scene and boutique shops. And for the ultimate in privacy, the property can be exclusively hired for a group to enjoy.

Doubles from £349 +44 (0)1386 896234; foxhillmanor.com 2020/21 COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 105

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE FUZZY DUCK ARMSCOTE, WARWICKSHIRE

A brilliant example of a village pub that has been rescued with skill and panache. Brother and sister business owners Adrian and Tania Slater have transformed this modest Midlands inn (formerly The Fox and Goose), into an expression of the same ‘affordable luxury’ ethos they’ve also applied so successfully to their bath, body and fragrance company, Baylis & Harding, and with the same stylish, sky-high standards. The pub’s topto-toe transformation has created a slick, sophisticated and cosy place in which to drink, dine and stay – you’ll find it’s more like walking into a private home than an inn.

Choose from four elegant bedrooms, with beautifully neutral interiors, big, comfortable beds, Frette linens and contemporary fabrics.

Downstairs in the pub, the contemporary Cotswolds food is locally sourced and seasonal with daily specials on the menu. This is the sort of place, small but perfect, where you can have a romantic supper or a family feast, a lazy lunch and a slap-up breakfast, all in a pretty northern Cotswolds hamlet close to the historic Stratford-upon-Avon.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1608 682635; fuzzyduckarmscote.com

THE KINGHAM PLOUGH KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

The Kingham Plough has always been far more than a traditional gastro-pub. Since it was first opened by chef Emily Watkins in 2007, foodies have flocked here for her creative interpretation of bygone British dishes, often based on old Cotswold recipes.

Now, new owners Matt and Kate Beamish (who have worked with the likes of Raymond Blanc, Jamie Oliver and Fergus Henderson) have picked up the mantle. Head chef Jonny Pons champions artisanal and seasonal ingredients in his modern British menu with a Mediterranean twist, making everything inhouse except for the sourdough loaves, which are freshly baked by Marks Cotswold Bakery.

Expect favourite pub classics – fish and chips, ploughman’s boards, cheeseburgers – alongside refined dishes such as Tamworth pork ribeye and pea and mint tortellini.

Behind the bar, there are craft ales and local beers by Hook Norton Brewery and upstairs you’ll find six country chic bedrooms kitted out with vintage furniture, soft mohair blankets on the beds and Bramley products in the bathroom. Eat well, sleep well.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1608 658327; thekinghamplough.co.uk 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE LYGON ARMS BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Visit a hotel that has been coloured by the characters of history. At The Lygon Arms you can eat in the suite (now dining room) that Oliver Cromwell stayed in the night before the Battle of Worcester in 1651, and whose former guests include Edward VII, Elizabeth Taylor and Prince Philip. Offering a glorious overview of the Cotswolds, The Lygon Arms in the centre of Broadway is the ideal destination from which to discover one of the most beloved regions in the country.

Explore the Cotswold Way, a walk that will reward you with countryside views, pictureperfect villages and pre-historic landmarks.

Featuring a thriving foodie scene, leading boutique shops, family attractions, filming locations, and a heritage of keeping the area historic and authentic, here you can tailor the perfect day out. The Lygon’s 86 bedrooms are beautifully decorated by Anita Rosato, and don’t forget to visit its indulgent spa. Most impressive of all is the relaxed and informal dining space at The Lygon Bar and Grill, where carefully crafted menus are created using the finest locally sourced ingredients.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk

NO 38 THE PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Part of the brilliant Lucky Onion Group that was started by Julian and Jade Dunkerton (see No 131, page 108, and the Wheatsheaf Inn, page 111), this fine Georgian house, tucked away in the centre of Regency Cheltenham overlooking leafy Pittville Park, combines the independence of a B&B with the luxury of a hotel. Whether you take just a room or the entire house, you’ll feel completely at ease here – and even your favourite canine companion can join you, too, for an extra element of home-from-home comfort.

Choose between Excellent, Very Good and Cosy rooms, all decorated in exceedingly good taste: everything is sensual and textured, from plump, velvet-padded headboards and mohair throws to oversized lamps and vast log baskets. Bathrooms are heaven, with underfloor heating and a mix of freestanding zinc baths and double showers. Just a stone’s throw from Cheltenham Racecourse, sister hotel No 131, with its fabulous restaurant and late-night cocktail bar, is also conveniently a short walk away. What more could you need for a decadent Cotswolds escape?

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1242 822929; no38thepark.com 2020/21 COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 107

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NO 131 CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This is the hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, fashionable on the inside. With hangouts and hideaways aplenty, its newly landscaped sun terraces with outdoor bars and al fresco dining make for relaxed daytime get-togethers. There’s 36 fabulous bedrooms, including three family suites, which are adorable cocoons with divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold fabrics, original artwork from some of the UK’s biggest creative names and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. The elegance of the recently redesigned restaurant is complemented by the relaxed buzz of the downstairs latenight bar and Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with its resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefully sourced food, menus range from casual Afternoon Pickings to Feasts, and there’s even a coffee menu, including No 131’s own unique house blend.

Here you’ll find home-from-home comfort in the beating cultural heart of the Cotswolds.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com

THE SWAN ASCOTT-UNDER-WYCHWOOD, OXFORDSHIRE

This 16th-century timbered inn, complete with inglenook fireplaces, reclaimed wooden floors and a large central bar, has become the latest in Sam and Georgie Pearman’s new Country Creatures collection of delightful and stylish rural establishments. You’ll find seven dashingly pretty bedrooms and a family cottage, all balancing comfort and luxury in equal measure, with antique and modern art pieces, natural linens, velvets and printed fabrics, and Georgie’s 100 Acres Apothecary products in the bathrooms. In the charming dining room, exposed timber, Cotswold stone, striking Lewis & Wood wallpaper and art by Keith Tyson create an intimate setting, while the garden terrace has firepits and painted wooden planters. Expect the best of British and European produce from head chef Dan Smith. Tuck into barbecued native prawns with Chipping Norton nduja and garlic butter, followed by lamb rump with potato fondant, and then a selection of local cheeses. Breakfast is a delight, with carve-yourself ham, cheese, fresh loaves and fruit compotes laid out on the central bar to help yourself to.

Doubles from £100 + 44 (0)1993 832332; swanascott.com 108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE COTSWOLDS

THORNBURY CASTLE THORNBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Thornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed here and Princess Mary, later Mary I, lived here. After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture, the ornate carved ceilings and tapestry wall-hangings. Spiral staircases lead to 27 unique, romantic bed chambers, most with coronet or four-poster beds. Their baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well-heated with opulent bathrooms. For total privacy, there’s also The Gatehouse; self-contained with two bedrooms, set within its own garden. The magnificent Tudor gardens have been restored to their full glory and comprise formal areas, a kitchen garden, wildflower meadow and heritage orchard. Thornbury’s fine dining options include the atmospheric Tudor Hall and a private dining room in the original dungeon where guests can tuck into a four-course candle-lit dinner. Best of all, it’s an authentic, thundering castle.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk

THE TROUT AT TADPOLE BRIDGE BUCKLAND MARSH, OXFORDSHIRE

What a delightful spot. It’s here that the infant Thames is at its most peaceful, slipping past miles of understated countryside, rich in wildlife. Downstream from Tadpole Bridge are the wildflower meadows and wading birds of the Chimney Meadows Nature Reserve; across the fields is Bampton, one of the prettiest villages in the county. Kelmscott Manor lies farther along the river, while Blenheim Palace and Cotswold Water Park are within easy reach. It’s hard to think of a better base for a weekend away. The neat, old brick inn has all the hallmarks of a carefully modernised pub with rooms, one that adds up to an appealing, unpretentious, family-friendly whole. Winning ingredients include six lovely, peaceful bedrooms decorated with neutral tones and vintage flourishes; cheerful local staff; a clutch of faithful regulars propping up the bar and hearty classics on the dinner menu, which makes the most of fresh fish and local game, all served in an elegant dining room (also available to take away).

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1367 870382; troutinn.co.uk 2020/21 COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 109

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

TUDOR FARMHOUSE HOTEL CLEARWELL, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In the heart of the Forest of Dean in the magnificent Wye Valley, surrounded by ancient woodland, Tudor Farmhouse Hotel is an utterly chic 20 room boutique retreat. All low ceilings, ancient wood beams and crackling fires, the 17th-century farmhouse and its converted outbuildings house luxurious rooms and particularly sumptuous beds, most with a freestanding tub. Its 14 acres of wildflower meadows are a protected site of Special Scientific Interest, due to its rare plants, and foraging trips are one of many nature activities on offer from the hotel’s expert team. Head chef Joseph Williams champions organic and hyper-local produce – try his fantastic 20-mile menu – including vegetables and herbs from the hotel grounds. Sunday lunch is also a real draw, and breakfasts are show-stopping – a real gastronomic getaway. If all that indulgence leaves you craving some fresh air, whether its canoeing on the river Wye, local salmon fishing, visiting the nearby Clearwell Caves, endless bucolic walks, or wildlife safaris organised by the hotel, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

WHATLEY MANOR MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

This beautiful Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens (and near to Prince Charles’ Highgrove, as well as verdant Westonbirt, the National Arboretum) makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a grownup getaway. Whatley Manor is committed to sustainability and has recently achieved four globes with Earthcheck accreditation; enquire about its Simply Sustainable Stay package. The hotel is close to the quaint market town of Malmesbury, and offers 23 luxuriously furnished rooms. Unwind in the Aquarias Spa, featuring an indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy pool, a thermal suite including a Himalayan salt cabin and spa treatments

by Natura Bissé and Gaia, plus 26 stunning garden areas to relax in. It's great for foodies, too: in the Dining Room, executive chef Niall Keating’s innovative, seasonal cooking has earned him two Michelin stars, and his menu draws inspiration from Japanese, Korean and classic French cooking. There's also Grey’s Brasserie to try, which has smart looks and a sophisticated vibe.

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE WHEATSHEAF INN NORTHLEACH, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This beautifully decorated former coaching inn serves as both a hub for the local community and a welcome 17th-century watering hole for those exploring the beautiful Cotswolds. It combines an informal, welcoming atmosphere with all the attributes of a fully fledged hotel, including a glamorous private dining room, a relaxing sitting room and perfectly manicured courtyard and outdoor dining space. Locals crowd into the casual country bar for drinks and light meals, or dine under the beady eyes of the doughty Wills tobacco family, whose early 20th-century portraits decorate one wall of the restaurant, gleaming with polished wood. The 14 bedrooms, decorated in sleek style, are elegantly equipped, with deeply comfy Hypnos beds, Egyptian cotton linens and original artwork. What’s more, the locally sourced, simple, rustic food doesn’t miss a beat. Dine al fresco in the newly landscaped gardens, with its outdoor bar and pizza oven.

Rambling, centuries-old inns can be hard to modernise, but the Wheatsheaf Inn is a triumph. Plus, as with the best establishments, dogs are welcome, too.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1451 860244; cotswoldwheatsheaf.com

WOOLLEY GRANGE BRADFORD ON AVON, WILTSHIRE

The homely, relaxed atmosphere of this Jacobean manor house, the original Luxury Family Hotel, puts you immediately at ease. Its wood-panelled interior, open fires and antique furnishings are impressive but not pretentious, and it’s unmatched for making children and dogs welcome. The 14-acre garden is one big adventure playground, with swings, play houses and dipping pond. There are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, the complimentary Woolley Bears Den children’s club and the Hen House for older children. Adult treats include picnics in the grounds, a luxurious Elemis spa, roaring log fires and a terrace for champagne on summer evenings. The bedrooms are both family friendly and full of character. For parents with younger children, take advantage of the baby listening service, don your glad rags and head for a superb dinner, prepared by awardwinning chef Jethro Lawrence, using fresh produce from the kitchen garden and the best local suppliers. When you do venture out, Bradford-on-Avon is truly a Cotswold artisan town, full of quaint cottages and interesting hidden nooks, and well worth exploring.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 864705; woolleygrangehotel.co.uk 2020/21 COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 111

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Chris Fletcher, Hay Wood Bluebells, Baddesley Clinton, Warwickshire. Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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Mid Country From blustery peaks and lush hidden valleys to a strong industrial history and vibrant contemporary culture – you’ll find a rich mix of worlds in the middle of the UK

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Céline Gittens Quick bite? Tim Hortons is my go-to for

a quick bite in Birmingham’s city centre. As a Canadian, I proudly support this coffee shop chain, which hails all the way from Ontario.

Its hot chocolate is the creamiest and you can’t leave without purchasing a box of Timbits, which are mini doughnuts (timhortons.co.uk).

Languorous lunch? During Birmingham Royal Ballet’s performances of The Nutcracker last year, I was lucky enough to be treated by The Ivy Birmingham. I’d highly recommend the seared Atlantic scallops (theivybirmingham.com).

Favourite walk? I absolutely love nature and the British countryside certainly delivers.

One of my favourite walks is in the gardens of Packwood House. My favourite feature is a tightly ascending, spiralling path lined with box hedges. Once you reach the top, you can feast your eyes on the views of the house and garden (nationaltrust.org.uk).

Decent pint? The Red Lion in the Jewellery Quarter. It does a great Sunday roast, too (redlionhockley.pub).

Spot of romance? My husband would definitely say Villa Park (football stadium) but would also agree to Eastside Jazz Club. This is Birmingham’s only dedicated jazz venue and part of the Royal Birmingham Conservatoire’s campus. It offers a wonderful night of great music with a romantic vibe (bcu.ac.uk).

History hit? The Black Country Living Museum. This open-air museum tells the stories of life in the Black Country through its carefully preserved shops, homes, and industrial areas. Peaky Blinders filmed several Try Birmingham’s most famous dish, the balti

Head to the Eastside Jazz Club for a romantic evening

scenes here because of its genuine portrayal of that period in history. I recommend the 1930s fish and chip shop, where food is wrapped in imitation newspaper (bclm.co.uk).

Culture vulture? The Birmingham Hippodrome is not only the home of the Birmingham Royal Ballet but also hosts the best in British and international theatre, comedy and opera (birminghamhippodrome.com).

Off the beaten track? On a warm summer day, visit Henley Ice Cream shop.

Housed in a 16th-century building in Henley-in-Arden, it serves up around 50 flavours of ice cream (henleyicecream.co.uk).

Local gossip? Birmingham is one of the most diverse cities in the United Kingdom. This melting pot directly influences the wonderful experience in the city in terms of restaurants, and the music and arts scene.

Local lore? Lots of areas in Birmingham are referred to as villages. This nods to their individual characteristics and residents are often fiercely proud of their locale.

You must… Try Birmingham’s famous dish, the balti. Visit the Balti Triangle, home to at least a hundred family-run restaurants that specialise in it.

The locals wouldn’t like it… If you say that Led Zeppelin is an American rock band, that Birmingham is ‘up north’, and that Manchester as the UK’s second-largest city.

Shop till you drop? Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter is home to over 700 jewellers and independent retailers and produces more that 40 per cent of the United Kingdom’s jewellery output (jewelleryquarter.net).

Favourite garden? There’s a David Austin Roses garden centre in Shropshire, with a stunning display garden, a restaurant, and gift and gardening shops (davidaustinroses.co.uk).

Family fun? Cadbury World in Bournville is a real-life Charlie and the Chocolate Factory experience – and the staff hand out free chocolate bars! (cadbury.co.uk) Birmingham Royal Ballet; brb.org.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; BARRY SKEATES; HANDOVER AGENCY

The Birmingham Royal Ballet principal on live jazz and her love of the English countryside

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MID COUNTRY

DO

The Mid Country has a lot of history but it’s not all old news. Skip forward a few centuries and head to the National Space Centre in Leicester. Take a walk through a replica of the Columbus Module from the International Space Station, learn about wormholes and black holes, and drift off into space in the Sir Patrick Moore planetarium (spacecentre.co.uk). Or head into Birmingham to see some modern masters at the contemporary Ikon Gallery in Brindleyplace, the city’s modern canal-side social hub (ikon-gallery.org).

SEE

Built between 1590 and 1597, Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire was commissioned by the formidable Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrewsbury, a notable businesswoman. It’s one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in the country and was daring at its time for its extensive use of glass – a local saying goes: ‘Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall’ (nationaltrust.org.uk). Newstead Abbey in Nottinghamshire is famous for a different reason: the ancestral home of Lord Byron and a former Augustinian priory, its history is a tantalisingly scandalous tale of debauchery, murder and illicit romance (newsteadabbey.org.uk).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

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The Mid Country has a rich culinary culture. Not only does Birmingham have six Michelinstarred restaurants (as well as the Balti Triangle), the region also has many historical dishes that are well worth a try. Staffordshire oatcakes are the Mid Country’s answer to Brittany’s galettes; head to Leek Oatcakes in Leek to sample them. The recipe for 4 Bosworth Jumbles was first written down in 1585, but according to legend it dates back to the famous local battle of a century earlier. There’s also plenty of fresh produce to try, like Vale of Evesham asparagus , which has its own festival every June (britishasparagusfestival.org), and the world-famous stilton from Colston Bassett dairy (colstonbassettdairy.co.uk).

GO 5

Of course, ramblers and nature lovers will want to head to the Peak District for its rugged landscape and breathtaking views. But further off the beaten track is the Lincolnshire Wolds , an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, home to rolling hills and hidden valleys, gentle streams and traditional market towns. Or head west, to the idyllic Wye Valley on the border with Wales, which follows the green, leafy course of the meandering River Wye.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSDALE LODGE OAKHAM, RUTLAND

It’s been 30 years since this honey-hued Exton Estate farmhouse was converted by the owner, the Honourable Thomas Noel, into Barnsdale Lodge Hotel. It has 46 individually decorated bedrooms with views of the countryside and private courtyard, as well as a plethora of original features including flagstone hallways, sash windows and cast iron stoves.

Today the hotel is run with great passion by managing director, Ed Burrows, and, for the quality of the rooms, food and location, represents superb value for money. Fresh, locally sourced produce is the staple of the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly created by executive chef, David Bukowicki. As well as two dining rooms, the garden room is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a coffee. There’s also a cosy snug, a light-filled conservatory and a croquet lawn. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors. A stone’s throw from Rutland Water, the hotel is also an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

THE CAVENDISH HOTEL BASLOW, DERBYSHIRE

For a warm Derbyshire welcome and a delightful setting with panoramic views, this 250-year-old coaching inn-cum-country house hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes. It was formerly owned by the Duke of Rutland but became the property of the Duke of Devonshire in 1830, reputedly won at the card table. Guests can walk across parkland and fields dotted with Limousin cattle towards Chatsworth House, resplendent after its ten-year restoration, with gleaming sandstone, gilded windows and carvings. The Cavendish maintains the personal touch: interiors overseen by the Duchess of Devonshire, supremely comfortable bedrooms, walls crammed with artwork and a thrilling dining experience, which was awarded three AA Rosettes in January 2020 recognising not just the food, but also the intuitive service. The sublime cooking of head chef Adam Harper, a Roux Scholarship finalist, served in the elegant Gallery restaurant and open-all-day Garden Room, is matched by a much lauded wine list.

One thing’s for certain, once you’ve soaked up the views and feeling of tranquillity and relaxation, you won’t want to leave.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1246 582311; cavendishbaslow.co.uk 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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MID COUNTRY

THE FALCON CASTLE ASHBY, NORTHAMPTON

The idyllic rural village of Castle Ashby is set within the 10,500-acre Castle Ashby Estate, the ancestral home of the 7th Marquess of Northampton, and at its centre sits The Falcon.

A Grade II-listed coaching inn built in 1594, it will open as a magnificent country retreat having been lovingly transformed and completely reimagined by Lord and Lady Northampton.

There are 22 bedrooms spread across the main hotel and adjacent cottages; bedroom five is the showstopper, with a private terrace and far-stretching lake views. Some cottages can be booked together to create larger suites, perfect for families. A connection to nature is at the hotel’s heart, and it’s easy to see why given its restorative surroundings. A multitude of wellbeing and meditative activities are on offer, including yoga, cycling, nature walks and wild swimming. A boot room stocked with Hunter wellies is there for rainier days. Dining on the sun-drenched terrace of Eyas restaurant (meaning a young falcon learning to fly) is sublime, with a menu celebrating exquisite local produce and healthfulness. A new retreat set to take off, just like its namesake.

Opening September 2020. Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1604 698005; thefalcon-castleashby.com

HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, first welcomed guests 40 years ago. Contented but never complacent, it offers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of chef Aaron Patterson (the hotel has held a Michelin star for over a record 35 unbroken years) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, The Croquet Suite is a cottage for two, adjacent to the hotel, with a sitting room, breakfast room and private terrace. There’s also a swimming pool, tennis court, kitchen garden and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s many aficionados return to their haven, where loyal key staff – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up 200 years of continual service between them.

Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 117

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM

Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre, with a private car park and secluded garden. One of the highest-rated hotels in the region, it was purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses, a dashing yet welcoming lobby and a softly furnished, light-filled residents’ bar. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Eight have private terraces with access directly into the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. In the restaurant, Hart’s Kitchen, you’ll encounter modern British cooking at its best – no extravagant flights of fancy, but first-class dishes created using only the freshest seasonal ingredients.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk

LANGAR HALL NOTTINGHAM

There’s always been a strong female line at Langar Hall: Imogen Skirving’s greatgrandmother bought the house in 1860, and her grandmother started the local WI. Its transformation from private house to hotel, though, is the achievement of Imogen who, over 26 years, remoulded her apricot-washed Georgian house into an instantly likeable homefrom-home, blending personality with country house charm. Though Imogen died four years ago, aged 78, all is not lost: she lives on in the terrific portrait that graces the pillared hall and in her granddaughter Lila, who took over the reins aged 22, and continues to ensure that nothing – including the vibrant atmosphere – has changed. The food (‘classic English with a twist’), from long-standing executive chef Gary Booth, is better than ever, and Michael, the maître d’, remains an integral part of Langar’s appeal. With 13 adorable bedrooms, the house stands next to the village church, surrounded by a mature garden and overlooking medieval carp ponds. Imogen’s aim was to allow her magical house to survive into the 21st century, and it continues to do so.

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MID COUNTRY

THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE

Charming and elegant, The Peacock at Rowsley is a stylish boutique hotel and celebrated gastronomic destination where guests can expect first-class service, comfortable bedrooms and superb food. Built in the 1600s, and a former dower house for Haddon Hall, it’s been a hotel since 1820. Today, it showcases the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary design, with a sense of the family history of the hotel’s owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches by his great-grandmother of the great and good of her day. There are 15 distinctively decorated bedrooms with gleaming marble bathrooms (two have four-posters made locally on the Haddon Estate), a fine dining restaurant (look for the carved mice in the original Mousey Thompson furniture) and a splendidly atmospheric bar. Food is at the heart of the place, with acclaimed head chef Dan Smith creating new menus each season, including a spectacular nine-course tasting menu and Sunday lunch – a favourite with the locals. It’s an ideal base for exploring the Peak District, with extensive dry fly wild trout fishing on the doorstep.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com

YE OLDE BELL HOTEL & SPA RETFORD, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Ye Olde Bell is a 17th-century former coaching inn halfway between London and Edinburgh, but things have moved on from the time when Ralph Thoresby became lost on horseback on his journey to London and begged a room.

Today, in the committed ownership of Paul and Hilary Levack, the hotel blends striking reception rooms, luxurious bedrooms, AA Rosette dining and one of the country’s most impressive spas, plus the character you’d expect from a historic building. The 59 bedrooms, suites and lodges have been individually designed – think oak panelling, antique furniture, gorgeous fabrics, grand beds, plus 21st-century comforts. Downstairs, the stylish Art Deco Restaurant Bar 1650 and lively St Leger Bistro both specialise in fresh, seasonal food (in the summer, guests can also eat and drink al fresco on the lovely Mediterranean terrace or in the garden). The spa offers exceptional personalised treatments and a dedicated thermal area with a startling snowstorm experience, stonebath steam room, herbal laconium, indoor sunlight therapy and an invigorating indoor-outdoor vitality pool.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1777 705121; yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 119

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Nick Seaman, Shingle Street, Suffolk. Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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East Anglia Head east and discover an ancient landscape of oyster beds, misty marshes, enchanting fishing villages and verdant countryside well worth exploring

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Miranda Raison Quick bite? You can’t beat bagels and coffee at Artemis Café in Cley next the Sea. Alex and Sophie who run it have a terrific menu. The coastal walk to Blakeney starts from their back garden so you can burn off what you’ve eaten.

Languorous lunch? For scenery and sheer individuality we go to The Gunton Arms whenever possible (theguntonarms.co.uk).

Nothing compares to sitting outside and seeing a deer walking in the park just a few metres away from you.

Favourite walk? The ever-changing skies in north Norfolk are particularly spectacular on the walk along the coastal path from Cley to Blakeney.

Decent pint? I don’t drink but for a spicy Virgin Mary I’d choose the back garden of The Jolly Sailor in Orford in the summer months (jollysailororford.co.uk), and a table by the fire at The Kings Head, also in Orford, in the chillier months (thekingsheadorford.co.uk).

Spot of romance? We recently discovered the stunning lake in Sudbourne Park, which is only open to the public on bank holiday weekends. Our daughter was with us and we still managed to find it romantic.

History hit? You can’t beat a tour of Holkham Hall followed by a walk around the park and the walled garden. It’s breathtaking, and has a fascinating history (holkham.co.uk).

Culture vulture? The Aldeburgh Festival is always wonderful for music, poetry, theatre and art of almost any kind. Sadly, it couldn’t happen this year so I hope lots of people will support the 2021 festival (snapemaltings.co.uk).

Far from the madding crowd? It’s not very easy to find and you have to negotiate the

oyster shells if you go for a swim, but Butley Creek on the Suffolk coast is well worth a wander off the beaten track.

Any local gossip? There is a merman featured on a lot of logos in certain parts of Suffolk. Rumour has it that he was fished out of the sea and spoke a language that wasn’t human.

He was kept in a dungeon at Orford Castle until he died. Historians now believe that he wasn’t so much a merman as a schizophrenic Frenchman with a beard!

Local lore? A friend of my father’s once told me that there was nothing more delicious than barn owl stew. As a gullible vegetarian teenager I think I nearly left the dinner table. You’ll find East Anglian humour is about as dry as it gets…

You absolutely must… Have a swim in the sea at Aldeburgh on one of the coldest days of the year. Which day you choose is up to you but stay in for more than 30 seconds at your peril….

The locals wouldn’t like it if you…

The Scallop by Maggi Hambling

Miranda recommends taking a tour of historic Holkham Hall

Mention London!

Take away? My husband and I have actually gone vegan in the past year, so our tastes have changed somewhat, but I can objectively say that whether on the Norfolk or Suffolk coast the local crab is almost always a winner.

Shop till you drop? Many a Christmas Eve we have found ourselves doing the bulk of our last-minute shopping at Snape Maltings. They have everything you might need.

Back to nature? I am obsessed with Maggi Hambling’s The Scallop sculpture on Thorpeness beach. It just does it for me.

Family fun? We share a Drascombe longboat with four other families and we all fight over who gets to take the boat down river to a spit on the Suffolk coast. Sometimes no one wins and we all pile on together. They are fun days!

Miranda Raison is patron of family support charity Home-Start, and stars in Warrior, showing on Sky One from October; home-start.org.uk

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©NICK GOODEY; ©LUKE DYSON; ©AMANDA SLATER; ©MIKE BLACKETT

The actor on the vast skies and seaside walks of her beloved East Anglia

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EAST ANGLIA

DO

Norfolk Lavender has 100 acres and over 50 varieties to explore, as well as being the first National Collection of Lavenders. You can tour the farm all year round, but the summer months are when the sweet and soothing lavender fragrance will be at its richest.

The team will guide you through the farm and teach you about the harvesting process, as well as how they distill the lavender to obtain the oils for some of the farm’s hand-made products. It’s then a 40-minute drive down the coast to Blakeney’s quayside , perfect for a spot of crabbing.

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King’s College Chapel , Cambridge, was commissioned

by Henry VI in 1446 and took around 100 years to complete. You can hear the Harrison & Harrison organ at half past five every day for choral Evensong, accompanied by some of the best choristers in the business. No tickets required (kings.cam.ac.uk). Or head down the road to Newmarket, home of British racing, to spot future champions in training as they speed past on the gallops.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©NICK GOODEY; ©LUKE DYSON; ©AMANDA SLATER; ©MIKE BLACKETT

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Mersea oysters have a long-standing pedigree, having been cultivated around Mersea since the Romans.

Try Britain’s own Colchester rock oysters and the Mersea native oysters at the West Mersea Oyster Bar (westmerseaoysterbar.co.uk).

They’re best enjoyed fresh, with a glass of dry white Summer Days wine from the neighbouring Mersea Island Vineyard (vineyard. merseabrewery.co.uk).

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When the festival scene reopens in 2021 with an inevitable bang, there’s sure to be a welly-clad stampede to Suffolk for Latitude Festival . Hosted at Henham Park, past headliners have included The Killers, Liam Gallagher and Fatboy Slim, with top comics such as Katherine Ryan and Dara Ó Briain also appearing alongside theatre shows, ballet performances and live podcast recordings(latitudefestival.com).

If you’re looking some peace and quiet head to the Stour Valley to walk the winding River Stour and enjoy some quintessential East Anglian countryside.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BANK HOUSE KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

Overlooking King’s Staithe Square and the Great Ouse River in the fascinating historic centre of King’s Lynn, Bank House is a glorious Georgian townhouse built by a wealthy wine merchant who shipped imported wine downriver to the Cambridge colleges and the Bishop of Ely. It was here in the 1780s that Joseph Gurney, later a founder of Barclays, set up his first bank; converted into a stylish, relaxed and exceptionally good value hotel in 2008, it is now run by Michael Baldwin of South Quay Hotels. Upstairs, 12 chic, individually decorated bedrooms comfortably blend old and new with antique furniture and modern art. Downstairs, the brasserie restaurant occupies Gurney’s purpose-built Counting House, now a buzzing local favourite serving highly recommended food. The adjacent bar, once the bank manager’s office, is open all day for tea, coffee and cakes, as well as drinks and cocktails. There’s also a large sunny room with sofas and comfy seating, as well as the Billiards Room and the Boardroom, ideal for private parties. If it’s warm, the riverside terrace offers the chance for al fresco drinks.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1553 660492; thebankhouse.co.uk

BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of north Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and out to Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The family-owned hotel, built in the 1920s, has been sensitively modernised in recent years and now has 60 rooms, all unfussy and seasidefresh, with crisp white linens on comfortable beds. Many have balconies, or look out onto the south-facing garden; others come with their own patio. Panoramic vistas of the stunning salt marsh landscape can be seen from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. When guests aren’t out walking the north Norfolk coastal path, exploring beaches or visiting one of the charming nearby towns, there are two spacious lounges for relaxing, plus a billiard and games room. The indoor pool, steam room, sauna and spa bath are another big draw for repeat guests, too.

Doubles from £272 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeney-hotel.co.uk 124 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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EAST ANGLIA

CLEY WINDMILL CLEY-NEXT-THE-SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain.

The singer James Blunt used to live here and Elizabeth Taylor filmed Conspirator at the property in 1949. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (it’s bird-watching country) as you come home to this beautifully restored windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories flood back as you climb higher and higher, finally mounting the ladder to the Wheel Room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular dining room with a blazing fire and antiques, while the cosy lounge, complete with bar, is part of the original 1713 warehouse. There are ten rooms to choose from, two of which, Dovecote and the new Old Cart Shed, are self-catering cottages in the old stables. The three circular bedrooms in the tower itself have bathrooms ingeniously fitted into challenging nooks and crannies. All are charming and bursting with character, with views over the waving reed beds to the sea.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk

CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

This calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, has a special feature: its acclaimed herb gardens, containing several hundred varieties, plus orchards and a kitchen garden. Inside, a lovely stone floor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of fresh garden flowers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. The airy dining room works both for smart gatherings and relaxed, informal meals – smoked haddock risotto, say, followed by grilled haunch of Norfolk venison. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between those in the house (the top floor rooms are small but charming) and others in the garden wing, next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa. The house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. What else?

Afternoon tea is a delight here, and then it’s back to those 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 125

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE DABBLING DUCK GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK

In picturesque Great Massingham, The Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth and efficiency by experienced, hands-on manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer, whose striking prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration – wooden floors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books.

There are nine bedrooms in total: six fresh and appealing spaces in the upstairs section of the pub, as well as a further three garden rooms. The pub has garnered a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. The terrific food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef Dale Smith. For a more al fresco dining experience, there’s also a beautiful oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner for the winter months, an outside bar and a kitchen that showcases Dale’s menu of street food and wood-fired pizza. The barn opens up on to the pub garden, where there’s a play area to keep the little ones busy.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk

THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the help of interior designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ironically, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ Inside, the 16 bedrooms are decked out with sumptuous furnishings, printed wallpaper and traditional dark wood furniture, contrasting with the edgy, sexy art on the walls by all the big names: Tracey Emin, Damian Hirst, Lucian Freud... the list goes on. In the bathrooms, the marble was sourced in Egypt by Robert Kime and came out of derelict mansions in Alexandria. The hotel’s eclectic look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled flint building itself, which sits inside vast, deer-filled Gunton Park. In the kitchen Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open fire that guests tuck in to at sharing tables – the seafood and Cromer crab are all caught by local fishermen.

If you stay in Ellis, don’t miss the old prints by the dressing table – but maybe not if you objected to Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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EAST ANGLIA

THE ICKWORTH HOTEL BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

Of the Luxury Family Hotels group, The Ickworth is surely the most remarkable. For anyone, however aristocratic, it would make an impressive place to stay, but the fact that the East Wing, home to the eccentric Hervey family for almost 200 years, now offers fun for families, is remarkable indeed. Central to Ickworth is its vast rotunda and views over formal gardens and gently rolling countryside. The hotel entrance is flanked by rows of Dubarry boots, and families romp happily about. Babies are looked after in the crèche, while older children revel in the indoor pool or adventure playground.

Parents can escape to the treatment rooms and enjoy romantic suppers, thanks to the baby listening devices available to borrow from reception. Bedrooms range from traditional to modern and include interconnecting rooms and suites, plus apartments in Ickworth Lodge, a short walk away. There are 1,800 acres of parkland to explore: hire bikes from the hotel and cycle round the estate’s new, all-weather, ninekilometre cycle route. With a dog friendly ethos, it’s also perfect for four-legged friends.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1284 735350; ickworthhotel.co.uk

MAISON TALBOOTH DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale in Constable country, this handsome Victorian house has a sophisticated interior. Its 12 bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of nearby restaurant Le Talbooth. Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952 and whose portfolio also includes The Pier at Harwich (see page 130), Milsoms Kesgrave Hall (see page 128) and Milsoms Dedham (page 128). As with all the properties, dogs are welcome. There’s a lightly applied literary theme to the smartly decorated bedrooms, each bearing a poet’s name and stocked with their works. Along with a breakfast room, heated outdoor pool and day spa, there’s the sense of being at a private house party.

With its personal service, Maison Talbooth particularly suits groups of friends with an event to celebrate. Breakfast can be served in your room or in the Garden Room, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from Le Talbooth, a half-timbered building with a film set location on the River Stour. In all, the hotel and restaurant make for a winning combination.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1206 322367; milsomhotels.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 127

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

MILSOMS DEDHAM, ESSEX

Part of the local Milsom Group, this attractive ivy-covered country house hotel in Dedham Vale is all about kicking back.

Designed by Geraldine Milsom, the 15 bedrooms each feel like a sanctuary, with contemporary textiles such as a groovy animal print bedhead or striped cushions on the beds. No dress code at the restaurant (wear shorts and sandals or a shirt and tie – anything goes) and no bookings mean you can spend as long as you like enjoying the meze board, superb 28-day dry aged steaks or scoops of homemade ice-cream for dessert. From March to late October, there’s a lovely sail-covered terrace (heated when it’s chilly) underneath a sequoia tree and overlooking the gardens for supping local ales and artisan cider; otherwise, head inside to the laidback bar or lounge. Private gatherings take place in The Library or Mr G’s, which has its own dedicated kitchen and private garden. The area is renowned for its walking trails but for those who don’t fancy exploring on foot, the hotel also has a bicycle and canoe hire service.

Double from £155 +44 (0)1206 322795; milsomhotels.com

MILSOMS KESGRAVE HALL KESGRAVE, SUFFOLK

With its exclusive collection of East Anglian hotels, the Milsom Group has the knack of creating sophisticated yet easy-going and contemporary places to stay. It showed how to do it with Maison Talbooth (see page 127), The Pier (see page 130) and Milsoms Dedham (see above) and has done it again with Kesgrave Hall, opened in 2008. An impressive country house, built in 1812, it stands in 38 rambling acres of woods, fields and immaculate lawns. Its 23 rooms range from Standard to Best, with Superior, Deluxe and Principal in between: all supremely comfortable and well-equipped. Dining is particularly relaxed – the family-friendly, all-day restaurant, with its rustic good looks, doesn’t take bookings or have a dress code; turn up whenever you like. In summer, there’s dining on the glorious covered terrace with views over the lawns. The highly anticipated The Spa, Kesgrave Hall, has recently opened, boasting Elemis products, five double treatment rooms, a sauna and plenty of soothing space in a bucolic woodland setting that you can really relax in.

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EAST ANGLIA

THE NORFOLK MEAD HOTEL COLTISHALL, NORFOLK

Three cheers for this sophisticated yet gentle address, brilliantly placed for exploring both the Norfolk Broads and Norwich. With a lovely walled garden, perfect for afternoon tea and summer dining, a wildflower meadow that borders a pretty tributary of the River Bure and a private lake, this fine Georgian house set in eight acres of grounds is a haven. It comes with its own boat, in which you can explore the Broads with a delicious picnic; add a massage or facial in the hotel’s treatment rooms and you have the ingredients for a delightful yet affordable break. Husband and wife team Anna Duttson and James Holliday are the hands-on owners and they revitalised this long-established hotel in 2013, creating 16 contemporary rooms and suites. Anna’s background at the helm of a successful catering company (they both worked for McLaren on the Formula 1 circuit, catering for the team around the world) means that the two AA-rosette food – pork belly with beetroot tops followed by cod loin and lemon meringue parfait, say – is as refined as the rest.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1603 737531; norfolkmead.co.uk

THE NORTHGATE BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

There is a wonderful vibe to The Northgate.

Its recent refurbishment has transformed the property into a modern restaurant with rooms with a quality yet informal atmosphere. With its striking cocktail bar, fabulous dining room, stylish Chef’s Table (the only one in Bury St Edmunds), huge terrace and ten deeply comfortable bedrooms, guests might have little reason to venture into town. But location and provenance are central to the guest experience.

The young, casually dressed staff are both enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the area’s extensive history and attractions, while the food – from highly experienced head chef Greig Young – exceeds guests’ already high expectations. His ‘Taste of East Anglia’ menu – where each small plate celebrates seasonal produce from a specific region within the region – is a big hit. The Northgate offers a series of experiences for guests too – from cocktails and calligraphy to kitchen demonstrations, these crafted experiences are fast becoming a big pull among visitors. Plus, rates for the individually designed bedrooms and their luxurious en-suite bathrooms are extremely fair.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1284 339604; thenorthgate.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 129

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PIER HARWICH, ESSEX

Designed to resemble a Venetian palazzo, The Pier is a striking hotel built in 1864 to accommodate passengers departing from Harwich for the continent. The diminutive Ha’penny Pier, so called for its admittance charge, is still intact opposite. The Pier Hotel sports a light and airy interior, including the ground-level NAVYÄRD bar with its choice of over 100 gins, and a relaxed first floor restaurant with five sought-after tables on the balcony. The views from here are mesmerising and the setting perfect for champagne, oysters, local lobster and the freshest Dover sole. Bedrooms are either upstairs or in a building next door. All are breezy, attractive and very good value – from six of them, you can soak up the view: the Stour and Orwell estuaries snaking into the distance, the pier at your feet and boats beetling about on the water. Owned for over 40 years by the Milsom family (see Maison Talbooth, page 127, Milsoms Dedham, page 128 and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall on page 128), The Pier makes a delightfully different spot for a seaside break.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1255 241212; milsomhotels.com

THE SUN INN DEDHAM, ESSEX

Privately owned since 2003 by Piers Baker, The Sun Inn stands in the centre of Dedham, the heart of Constable Country, and is a charming base for visiting this beautiful area. Bikes are provided so you can easily explore the banks of the Stour and Dedham Vale, or indeed go boating on the river if it’s fine. The bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn, with its distinctive pub sign, beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pubby, with a mix of beams and wooden floors, comfy sofas in contemporary colours, log-burning stove and bar lined with jolly locals and their dogs. As for the food, you can take a picnic while you explore, stay in to graze at the bar, which has a suitably eclectic wine list, or feast in the dining room on fish from Mersea day boats, meat from rare breeds, wild game in season and, when possible, fruit and veg picked that very morning. The seven bedrooms are sophisticated havens, brightly decorated and sumptuously equipped.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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EAST ANGLIA

UNIVERSITY ARMS CAMBRIDGE

Cambridge’s oldest hotel is now, after an £80m rebuild, by far its best and most exciting. The 19th-century façade facing the parkland of Parker’s Piece – where the first game of FA rules football was played – has been restored, with stained glass windows throughout and the addition of an extra floor for suites with private terraces. The hotel’s articulated roofline is ingenious, but the real triumph of architect John Simpson’s neoclassical design is the elegant new portecochère on Regent Street, which heralds the building with stately impact and invites visitors through one of three handsome front doors. One is for guests staying in one of the 192 suitably bookish and eclectic rooms, painted in shades of Cambridge blue. The additional two are for Parker’s Tavern, the all-day bistro and bar, with interiors (like the bedrooms) by man of the moment Martin Brudnizki. This charming evocation of a college dining hall is graced by an equally clever menu from hugely talented chef Tristan Welch. It’s the town’s new culinary hotspot: old school but hip, too.

Doubles from £143 +44 (0)1223 606066; universityarms.com

THE VICTORIA INN HOLKHAM, NORFOLK

One of the great pleasures in life is walking on the beach at Holkham, an unspoilt and beautiful stretch of sand, memorably featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare In Love.

Behind it stands fabulous Holkham Hall and its 25,000-acre estate, seat of the Earl of Leicester and rich in history, architecture and wildlife. And then there’s the Earl’s gorgeous brick and flint inn, The Victoria, affectionately known as The Vic, right there at the gates of the Palladian house. It has never looked better: a series of lovely sitting rooms, bar and dining room with an airy conservatory extension where delicious, locally sourced, seasonal food is served. The country sports atmosphere of The Vic is enhanced by antlers and hunting scenes on the walls and delightful staff appropriately attired in tweed. Bedrooms are lovely, too, and The Victoria makes a wonderful base for exploring the local area. From the stunning panoramic landscape of the nearby Holkham National Nature Reserve to the oldfashioned beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea, there’s plenty of great walking to do right there on the doorstep of The Victoria Inn. From £150 +44 (0)1328 711008; holkham.co.uk/victoria 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 131

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The North With its proper pubs, windswept shorelines and rugged moors, a trip to the north of England will really blast those cobwebs away

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Tony Higginson, Roker Pier In Early Spring, Sunderland, Tyne and Wear.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Adelle Stripe Quick bite? Vocation & Co in Hebden Bridge

serves tacos made from local produce, and its own beer brewed in the area. It’s the place I always take guests (vocationbrewery.com).

Languorous lunch? The Moorcock Inn at Norland has some of the highest quality bar food in the north. The chef, Alisdair Brooke-Taylor, not only creates and grows half of the menu, he also makes the ceramics it’s all served on (themoorcock.co.uk).

Favourite walk? Spurn Point is a childhood favourite. It’s on the tip of the Humber Estuary, facing out towards the wild North Sea. It feels like the edge of the earth.

Decent pint? There are many great boozers up here. When in Manchester, I always head to the Peveril of the Peak. When in York, a pint of Timothy Taylor in the Blue Bell is unbeatable.

History hit? It’s off the beaten track, but RAF Holmpton in East Riding is worth the journey. It’s a Cold War bunker: 36 acres built underground, with all the original fittings including maps, communication walls, sirens, radar equipment and a hospital.

It’s astonishing to think what lies beneath the soil (visitthebunker.com).

Culture vulture? Liverpool is always a delight.

Stay in the Georgian Quarter and wander around the Tate, the RC Cathedral, aka ‘Paddy’s Wigwam’, that resembles a spaceship, or visit the International Slavery Museum (liverpoolmuseums.org.uk).

From the madding crowd? Barter Books in Alnwick is a Mecca for bookworms. It has a miniature railway running through the shop

Wilsis by Jaume Plensa in the Yorkshire Sculpture Park

and is built in the old train station. The shop has a café, an open fire, lots of space – plus rare first editions and the latest titles (barterbooks.co.uk).

Local gossip? Ted Hughes used to catch salmon in the Borders, chuck the fish into his boot and drive to Mytholmroyd to see his Aunt Hilda on the way back.

As he owned Lumb Bank (where the Arvon Foundation is located), he’d sometimes drop the fish off in the middle of the night to feed the students. They never knew who had supplied the fish that fed them.

Local lore? ‘You can always tell a Yorkshireman, but you can never tell him owt’ – Take a walk to Spurn Point, East Yorkshire seems to sum up the (to me) unbearable aspects of a certain type of Yorkshireman, exemplified by such figures as Geoffrey Boycott and Bernard Ingham. Thankfully, he is a dying breed!

You absolutely must… Visit the Trades Club.

It’s an institution: a celebrated live music venue with a sprung dance floor, owned by its members. It was described as ‘the hippest venue in the North’ by The Guardian.

I couldn’t agree more (thetradesclub.com).

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… Litter.

Seeing the piles of rubbish left in the countryside over lockdown is infuriating.

Take away? In Todmorden you can buy Sad Cakes, which were made for people working the mills with currants and leftover pastry. They go down a treat with a mug of Yorkshire Tea. Shop till you drop? I head to Manchester’s Northern Quarter for second-hand clothes and independent record shops.

Favourite garden? The York Gate Garden is considered to be one of the UK’s best small gardens and was designed as a series of beautifully crafted outdoor rooms (perennial.org.uk).

Back to nature? I try and visit Robin Hood’s Bay at least once a year. Walking on the beach at low tide is always magical.

Family fun? Yorkshire Sculpture Park at Bretton Hall is a breath-taking place, with works by Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore and Andy Goldsworthy (ysp.org.uk).

Black Teeth and a Brilliant Smile (Fleet, £8.99). adellestripe.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; JONTY WILDE; LAKELAND ARTS

The author on the North’s decent boozers, live music and hidden Cold War bunkers

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THE NORTH

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Learn all about northern England’s industrial past at The Beamish Museum in Durham, an open-air museum that paints a picture of life in north-east England during the 18th and 19th centuries (beamish.org.uk).

Then, for some bucolic respite, wander around the Yorkshire Dales National Park . Though a famous site in itself, there are hidden gems abound in this glorious sector of the English countryside, such as wild swimming spot Loup Scar at Burnsell, and the mystical Victoria Cave grotto (yorkshiredales.org.uk).

SEE

Avoid the crowds at Bamburgh Beach and head to Sugar Sands, a secluded bay perched between Howick and Boulmer.

It’s a bit of a walk, but once there you’re guaranteed peace – and views as sweet as the name suggests. For beauty of a different kind pay a visit to Blackwell in Windermere, a Grade I-listed Arts and Crafts house overlooking the Lakeland fells, designed in 1898 by architect Baillie Scott as a holiday home for Manchester brewer Sir Edward Holt.

Don’t miss the exquisite attention to detail, from the uniquely shaped door handles to the 2 curious window latches (blackwell.org.uk).

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; JONTY WILDE; LAKELAND ARTS

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Foodies will be well catered for in the small Cumbrian village of Cartmel, most widely known for housing Simon Rogan’s Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk). That’s not the only draw though: Cartmel Village Shop (cartmelvillageshop.co.uk) is home to the much-loved Cartmel sticky toffee pudding, while artisan cheese shop Cartmel Cheeses (cartmelcheeses.co.uk) sells up to 50 cheeses at a time, including varieties from local family-run producer St James. The north also excels in charming country pubs, including the Michelinstarred Pipe and Glass Inn (pipeandglass.co.uk) in South Dalton and the historic Assheton Arms (asshetonarms.com) in Clitheroe.

GO

There’s plenty to love about Haworth, a pretty hilltop village near Bradford made famous by its former residents, the Brontë sisters. While it’s worth having a nosey around their former home – now open as a museum – there’s much more to be explored in its cobbled streets: friendly pubs, antique stores, and the surrounding windswept moors that inspired Wuthering Heights (bronte.org.uk). Another location with rich historical significance is the atmospheric Lindisfarne , also known as the Holy Island: an otherworldly spot that, twice a day, stands as its own separate isle when the road to the mainland is submerged by the tide (lindisfarne.org.uk).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ASKHAM HALL ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

If you lean towards staying in homes rather than hotels, head for this magnificent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. Askham Hall’s mighty, yet approachable, Grade I-listed ‘pele tower’ (fortified house), was formerly the family home of the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale, whose son, Charlie Lowther, converted it into a hotel in 2012 after making a success of The George and Dragon at nearby Clifton (in 2019, he also acquired Askham’s village pub, The Queen’s Head). The romantic and quintessentially English 40-acre landscape is a joy; it includes a cafe (open to the public), extensive kitchen gardens and fields of freerange chickens, goats and rare-breed pigs.

A joy, too, is the house with its vast drawing room, panelled French room, antiques, contemporary paintings and 19 delightful bedrooms, plus a pool and small spa. The icing on the cake? The Allium restaurant, where the sensational food of Richard Swale is dictated by the life cycle of those gardens and fields. No wonder it was awarded a Michelin star last year.

Doubles from £150 + 44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk

AUGILL CASTLE KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA

Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magnificent Eden Valley. It has all the trappings of a neoGothic castle – tower, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. Its wonderfully warm owners, Simon and Wendy Temple-Bennett, rescued it from dereliction and have created an award-winning and very special place to stay. It retains the atmosphere of a family home amid its vast rooms, with large fireplaces and antique furniture. There are 13 charmingly eclectic bedrooms, plus suites and cottages spread across the estate. Those in the castle are more traditional – turrets for wardrobes, claw-foot baths, stained glass windows – while the cottages feel more contemporary. The restaurant is headed up by chef Justin Woods, with a casual house menu served Sundays and Mondays, while the Great British Bar champions small distillers, brewers and artisan producers. This is also a splendidly unique place for a wedding: you have the castle to yourself and there’s no formula.

Simon also gives a fascinatingly honest glimpse of life at Augill in his books, Undressed for Dinner and Stop for Breakfast (Hayloft, £12).

From £180 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com 136 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE BAR CONVENT YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Hotel locations are wonderfully varied – from stately homes and prisons to windmills and castles – and in York there’s one in England’s oldest surviving convent. Dating from 1686, it’s still home to the apostolic members of the Congregation of Jesus, an Ignatian order founded in 1609 by an extraordinary woman called Mary Ward, at the height of Catholic suppression post-gunpowder plot. Grade I-listed, it’s a tranquil and affordable place to stay, recognised by Visit Britain, which gave it a three-star silver rating and coveted Breakfast Award. You can even sleep in one of two attractive rooms designed by Olga Polizzi, a supporter of the sisters and their work. Recent refurbishment has ensured simple but spotless and well-equipped bedrooms. There’s also a café (open until three and to the public) in the Victorian atrium for breakfasts, sandwiches and pastries. Plus, wander around the gloriously peaceful garden, the baroque chapel and the superb exhibition on the convent’s founder and history. It’s all rather joyful and uplifting, and the perfect spot from which to discover the secret alleyways of this historic walled city.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1904 643238; bar-convent.org.uk

BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE

Brocco on the Park is a shining example of how imaginative yet practical design can lift a place far above the ordinary. Its owner and creator, Tiina Carr, is half Finnish and the hotel is now a perfect marriage of pared-down Scandi chic and classic touches of British comfort. Tiina’s theme, executed throughout with the lightest of touches, is birds (rooms are given names like Nightjar’s Nest and Pigeon’s Loft). Her mantra for the hotel is ‘sleep well, eat well, live well’ and in her eight pretty, carefully crafted rooms with wooden floors, sumptuous, tactile furnishings and Bramley products, that’s just what you do. The ground floor, with an honesty bar for hotel guests, is given over to the stylish indoor-outdoor ‘neighbourhood kitchen’ for relaxed all-day dining (‘seasonal, a little bit Scandinavian and unmistakably Sheffield’) with smorgasbord lunches, Jazzy Sundays with live music and Nordic-style tapas, and plenty of choice. And don’t miss hygge hour, with a complimentary glass of fizz available in the lounge for all guests every day at 5.30pm. Now that’s relaxation.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 137

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE COOKIE JAR ALNWICK, NORTHUMBERLAND

Where better to come for a total retreat than a former convent? This delightful hotel, brainchild of seasoned hotelier Robert Cook’s wife, Debbie, was for 120 years the Convent of Mercy and the inviting new look created

by Dynargh Design includes features from its religious past. The Cookie Jar hotel is all about style with comfort, from the snug sitting room with its Penguin classics to a host of little luxuries that furnish the 11 bedrooms and suites: oversized fluffy towels, fine English linen, Hypnos beds, drench showers and home-made cookies in the cookie jar, of course. Rooms are either deemed Cosy or Luxury, while suites are Mother Superiors and the super-suite, the Mother of all Superiors, is in the former chapel, with its original circular stained glass window and vaulted ceiling. The Bailiffgate Bistro is open for lunch and afternoon tea, as well as dinner on Friday and Saturday – the south-facing terrace is perfect for summer sundowners and al-fresco suppers. If you’re here to shoot, there are gun cabinets and dog kennels. Nothing has been forgotten.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1665 510465; cookiejaralnwick.com

FEVERSHAM ARMS HOTEL HELMSLEY, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A wonderfully spoiling hotel with all the advantages of being in a town, plus stunning countryside on the doorstep. Situated next to the church in the picturesque market town of Helmsley, this former coaching inn, built in lovely old York stone, makes an elegant yet laid-back bolthole, with chic contemporary interiors, in-house art gallery, glossy Verbena Spa and dedicated staff. The food is served in airy restaurant, The Weathervane, and the menu is rooted in Yorkshire, with as many locally sourced and foraged ingredients as possible. Sunday lunch, afternoon tea and more casual lounge options are available, too. It’s worth checking out the packages on offer such as the Friday Fizz, which includes a bottle of chilled Prosecco and chocolates on arrival, a three-course dinner, full breakfast and use of the Verbena Spa Heat Experience (aromatherapy room, outdoor Jacuzzi and heated outdoor pool, steam and sauna, and monsoon shower). The 33 rooms and suites have all the little extras in place, from duck down duvets (unless you prefer sheets and blankets) to huge soft towels.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1439 770766; fevershamarmshotel.com 138 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

A lovely place to stay, eat and relax, close to the Eden Valley. Part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn has been imaginatively revamped by Charlie Lowther, who also owns nearby Askham Hall where Allium restaurant was awarded a Michelin star last year (see page 136). Here, the ground floor is a triumph of conviviality and authenticity.

The rustic bar, wood-burning stoves, banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions and sightline through to the slate-floored, duck egg blue-panelled restaurant, create a delightful place in which to while away time.

And on sunny days, there is no better spot than at one of the chunky, weathered tables in the courtyard. As for the food, almost all produce comes from Askham Hall’s gardens and estate (the rest is sourced from within a 20-mile radius). Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy cooking one craves in the countryside. Talking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s 11 comfortable bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive fishing and stalking. Families and well-behaved dogs are welcomed.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

GRANTLEY HALL RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A shining north star, newcomer Grantley Hall is a destination for luxury, fun and fine dining. Dating back to 1680, this Grade II*listed mansion house in idyllic countryside on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales boasts an English Heritage-listed ornamental Japanese garden in its grounds. A multi-million-pound restoration project by Valeria Sykes has returned this Palladian beauty to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur with the addition of several new buildings. Guests are spoiled rotten here – 47 beautiful bedrooms, a sybaritic wellness centre, an engaging programme of events and no less than seven drinking and dining venues, including pan-Asian eatery, Restaurant EightyEight, and a glamorous late night champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies will rub their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal restaurant, set in one of the original public rooms overlooking the formal gardens, belongs to Yorkshireman and culinary maestro, Shaun Rankin. Gastronomic delights, 17th century splendour and contemporary design.

Doubles from £385 +44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 139

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HARE & HOUNDS LEVENS, CUMBRIA

Not only is the modest but charming Hare & Hounds that rare find, a thriving watering hole, it’s also the only place for miles that serves food all day, every day. It’s their background as former managers of London branches of All Bar One that makes it natural for the owners, Ash and Becky Dewar, to offer continual dining. Coupled with their easygoing, friendly approach, this has once again made the centuries-old inn a popular local hub. The website sums it up: ‘We are friendly and welcoming to all: families, tourists, walkers, cyclists, children, muddy boots, dogs.’ The menu of homemade pizzas, burgers and pub classics, plus drinks – including cocktails – teas and coffees, goes down a treat. For overnight visitors there are five bedrooms, smartly decorated and luxuriously equipped, while for less transient guests there’s a spacious new barn annexe with all the facilities for self-catering, plus handy access to the pub for meals. For a cosy night in, staff can even deliver pub food straight to your door. The ultimate in comfort food, good ales and warm welcomes.

Doubles from £85 +44 (0)1539 560004; hareandhoundslevens.co.uk

HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM

The Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk, but also the archetypal English country house hotel at Headlam Hall. It helps that the hall is a fine-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and roses. Vegetables, herbs and fruit are grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, exquisitely proportioned rooms have panelling and elegant furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms (split between the Main Hall, Coach House, Mews and Spa) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own nine-hole golf course, fabulous spa and iconic classic cars available for daily hire in the summer, this is a hotel that absolutely everyone will enjoy… even the most dedicated of petrolheads.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk 140 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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LINTHWAITE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Linthwaite House, built in 1900 as a private home, is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understatedly elegant and professional but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the view over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, is simply unbeatable. You’ll find a crackling fire in the hall’s carved mahogany fireplace, beyond which beckons the light, and an airy bar and conservatory, with those mesmerising views. Outside, in the wooded, gently sloping grounds, there’s a tarn with a secluded summerhouse and six Lake Suites, with views of the surrounding Lake District scenery. Take out a rowing boat for breathtaking views of Lake Windermere. Back in the hotel, there are two dining options: the casual bar and conservatory and the hotel’s main restaurant, Henrock. Both are overseen by award-winning Chef Simon Rogan and make use of the freshest local Cumbrian ingredients. The bedrooms are the last word in lakeland luxury. Add a croquet lawn, pétanque, outdoor chessboard and fishing on the tarn, and you have a Lake District hotel that ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com/uk

MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, quaint sitting rooms, each with a roaring fire, and views of the ha-ha. The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house style bedrooms, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff. For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble soufflé with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel that’s as alluring in winter – all cosy and snug – as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the first women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here. This is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trustowned Historic House Hotel.

Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 141

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

The independently owned Palladian estate, Middleton Lodge, is just about the coolest hotel in Yorkshire. There are 45 bedrooms scattered across the 200 acres of carefully landscaped grounds: the newest addition is the Dairy Cottage, which comprises a mezzanine bedroom with a double-height living area, wood burning stove, round copper bathtub and hot tub on the terrace – plus, of course, ample original details.

Another favourite is the old Head Gardener’s Cottage, hidden within the walls of the Grade II-listed walled garden and with doors that open out onto the two-acres of yearround colour. Designed by RHS Chelsea gold winner Tom Stuart-Smith, the gardens are at the core of the estate and provide the primary inspiration for its acclaimed restaurant, the Coach House. There’s also plans afoot for a new spa and heated outdoor pool to be completed this year, along with the restoration of the original Victorian glasshouses where even more fresh produce will be grown. Sounds delicious.

Doubles from £169 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk

MOOR HALL AUGHTON, LANCASHIRE

A now-renowned gastronomic hotspot – with fabulous bedrooms – that has already reached the stars: two Michelin ones to be precise. The 16th-century Moor Hall was transformed into an opulent restaurant with rooms in 2017, achieving its first Michelin star within six months of opening and the second in 2019.

Chef patron Mark Birchall is the self-effacing culinary genius at the helm, responsible for creating a temple of gastronomy à la mode.

You could put a baby to bed on the cushioned carpets in the huge, gorgeous bedrooms (think silver, glass, purple, white leather, satin), while the contemporary wood and glass dining room might easily transport you to Cape Town, Sydney or California. The food (think turbot with mussels followed by Yorkshire rhubarb) is nothing short of sensational, served on local, specially designed pottery, with wines to match. But that’s not all: the converted medieval barn next door is Birchall’s neighbourhood restaurant, The Barn at Moor Hall, showcasing the best seasonal produce, mostly sourced from Moor Hall’s five-acre estate, where the fulsome walled kitchen garden is a wonder to behold.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1695 572511; moorhall.com 142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE NORTH

ODDFELLOWS CHESTER, CHESHIRE

Fancy a spot of retail therapy? A day at the races? Then hop on a train and head for Chester, whose compact medieval city centre, with its roots in Roman times, is graced by a fine cathedral and encircled by historic city walls. If you feel like some fun, head for Oddfellows, a perfect base for any age, but especially for the young at heart. Set in a beautiful neoclassical mansion house, the decoration is nicely zany, with old typewriters crawling up the wall, huge appliqué birds and foxes on the panelling in the bar, plus an indoor/outdoor courtyard with water feature, booths, firepits and oversized lamps. The frieze above the Georgian entrance says Oddfellows Hall and indeed the building was once home to the Oddfellows Society – where philosophers, dreamers and artists would congregate. The comfortable, well-equipped bedrooms are stylish, full of curios and fun accessories, and good value (great housekeeping here).

There are also cool, spacious, self-catering apartments. Downstairs you’ll find terrific cocktails in the bar, while the food in the revamped restaurant is outstanding.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1244 345454; oddfellowschester.com

ODDFELLOWS ON THE PARK CHEADLE, GREATER MANCHESTER

This handsome Oddfellow is the sister (or should that be brother?) of Oddfellows in Chester (see above). As with the original, a distinctive building has been reimagined as a chic and happening hotel, this time within the glorious Gothic mansion of Bruntwood Hall, surrounded by Bruntwood Park’s 120 acres of glorious mature woodland. Inside, the Hall’s Victorian Gothic roots and history have been allowed to shine through the interiors, with a rich palette of petrol greens, brass and gold. However, as at Oddfellows in Chester, a light-hearted spirit is also very much in evidence here. Names such as The Galloping Major (the restaurant, remembering a famous former owner) and The Stud Room (an inviting panelled drawing room with a playful cocktail bar at one end) give an idea of the sense of fun at this fine, historic hotel. Found in close proximity to Cheshire's famed Golden Triangle of wealth, don't be surprised to see supercars on the drive or the Real Housewives of Cheshire sipping champagne inside. The place to see and be seen.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1616 973066; oddfellowsonthepark.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 143

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ROCKLIFFE HALL DARLINGTON, COUNTY DURHAM

A seamless blend of old and new, Rockliffe Hall is proof that luxury country house hotels are not the preserve of southern England.

An imposing 18th-century house, it’s set in parkland beside the river Tees with a worldclass golf course and state-of-the-art spa. The golfers and spa enthusiasts who flock here are joined by foodies who come to sample sublime cooking in the three very exceptional restaurants. The flagship Orangery takes diners on a journey of textures, temperatures and tastes with its à la carte and tasting menus, beautifully executed and very memorable. The Brasserie is less formal while the relaxed Clubhouse is perfect for a postgolf meal or Sunday lunch while taking in the beautiful views. Lewis Carroll lived in nearby Croft-on-Tees, whose sulphur springs were known for their healing properties in the 1800s and may have inspired the potion that Alice drinks in Wonderland – don’t miss the hotel’s Mischmasch parkland, inspired by the book. Perfect for families, there’s a cinema room, playpods, an adventure playground, tennis courts and more.

Doubles from £230, including use of the spa +44 (0)1325 729999; rockliffehall.com

THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, with beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown. Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (see page 140), this 18th-century coaching inn continues seamlessly to do what it has always done so well: fine hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry.

There are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone fires, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort and expectation. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include homemade parsnip and apple soup or venison Bourguignon pie. The 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terrific character and charm. Brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and fly fishing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged).

Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE NORTH

STORRS HALL BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE, LANCASHIRE

A Grade II-listed Georgian mansion surrounded by 17 acres of gardens and woodland, family-run Storrs Hall has a prime position on the shores of Lake Windermere. There are 30 classic bedrooms in the main house, all with original features, grand proportions and antique furniture.

Alternatively, you can stay in the 200 year-old stone Boathouse with a fire pit on the terrace (the perfect spot for watching the sunset) or in one of six contemporary Lakeside Suites (adults only) on a rocky outcrop above the lake, each with sliding glass walls and a cedar hot tub on a private deck. Start the evening with drinks by the crackling fire in the Tower Bar, with its ornate carved wood and stained glass bar originally sourced from the Blackpool Tower Ballroom, before supper at the Lake Edge Restaurant. Of course, this is the Lake District so there’s masses to see and do, from hiking the fells to pottering around pretty lakeside towns but the hotel can arrange activities too, from a canoe and bushcraft afternoon to a RIB safari from the private jetty.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1539 447111; storrshall.com

YOREBRIDGE HOUSE BAINBRIDGE, YORKSHIRE

Once a pair of Victorian school buildings, Yorebridge House is now a seductive fivestar, three AA Rosette boutique hotel in the heart of the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, once voted the most romantic hotel in the UK with the oriental-style Nishiki hot tub room awarded UK’s sexiest bedroom. It's stylish and welcoming, with owners David and Charlotte Reilly and their team dedicated to professionalism and high standards, passionate about fine dining and offering a really personal service from the moment you arrive. The 11 contemporary, pampering bedrooms not only have fabulous views, yummy products and fluffy robes, but are themed around global locations (a clue to the Reillys’ love of travel). Spend the night in a Greenwich Village loft, a Moroccan riad or a Caribbean beach house. Some also have a private outdoor hot tub for a reviving soak. There are plenty of comfortable places to sit and relax in the handsome oak-floored sitting room and bar – in winter you can settle beside the roaring fire. Then sample superb quality local produce, as well as drinks and wine from impressive lists in the award-winning restaurant.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1969 652060; yorebridgehouse.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 145

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Wales & The Marches Wild and beautiful, Wales is a country of ancient castles, hidden waterfalls and golden beaches.

It’ll capture both your heart and your imagination

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Matt Botwood, Dancing Trees, St Mary’s Vale, Abergavenny, Wales. Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Arne Maynard The garden designer shares his favourite wildflower meadows, dragon sausages and waterfalls Holburne during his travels across Europe, and regular visiting exhibitions [currently showing Grayson Perry’s The Pre-Therapy Years] (holburne.org).

Quick bite? The Black Bear Inn, Bettws

Newydd, Usk. The fantastic food is locally sourced and the team always make us very welcome. Great for lunch or supper after a walk (theblackbearinn.co.uk).

Languorous lunch? It’s a short drive over the border to Bristol, but the The Ethicurean restaurant, set at the top of the Victorian walled gardens at Barley Wood, with views over the Mendip hills, is the perfect place for a stroll and a long lunch (theethicurean. com). Closer to home we would choose The Art Shop & Chapel in Abergavenny (artshopandgallery.co.uk).

Favourite walk? Running along the English-Welsh border, Offa’s Dyke is a 177 mile-long trail and is Britain’s longest ancient monument. We love the section from Pandy to Hay-on-Wye. Spot of romance? There’s nothing quite like discovering a waterfall and the Brecon Beacons in South Wales is known as ‘waterfall country’. There are lots to choose from and even some you can walk behind. What could be more romantic than that?

History hit? We return again and again to Llanthony Priory, a beautifully haunting 12th-century priory and church, most of which still stands against the surrounding green valleys. We bring up a pint and a ploughman’s lunch from the cavern bar beneath the priory, to enjoy among the ruins (castlewales.com).

Culture vulture? I would venture over the border to the Holburne Museum in Bath.

It has a wonderful permanent collection of pieces collected by the late Sir William The Black Bear Inn serves up scrumptious food with a friendly welcome

No dragons were harmed in the making of these

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; IAN MEDCALF

You absolutely must…

See Giffords Circus. Founded by the much-loved, late Nell Gifford in Gloucestershire, it’s a joyful celebration of colour, mystery and traditional circus charm (giffordscircus.com).

Take away? Dragon sausages. They are a must and so-called due to the addition of locally grown leek and chilli. Made by one of our local butchers, the name was disputed some years ago by Trading Standards who claimed the word ‘dragon’ was misleading!

Needless to say, they are still called dragon sausages and no dragons are ever harmed in their making (smoked-foods.co.uk).

Shop till you drop? Baileys Home Store, run by our very good friends Mark and Sally Bailey, is an incredible emporium of treasures for the home and garden (baileyshome.com).

Favourite garden? I would highly recommend the wonderful Bryan’s Ground in Stapleton, near Presteigne, which is particularly beautiful in late spring when the Iris sibirica ‘Papillon’ are in full bloom along the canal (bryansground.co.uk).

Family fun? We have spent many happy hours canoeing with friends and their families on the River Wye. There are plenty of canoe hire options with times to suit all levels of experience (canoethewye.co.uk). arnemaynard.com

PHOTOS: ©WILLIAM COLLINSON

Go hiking and waterfall hunting in the Brecon Beacons

Far from the madding crowd?

Wildflower meadows are abundant, and I recommend trying to catch the wild orchids at Caeau Tan y Bwlch near Caernarfon in North Wales in early June (northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk).

Local lore? Our house and garden is known as Allt y bela, which, roughly translated, means the high, wooded hillside of the wolf. It’s said to be the last known place wolves were found in Britain, which I rather love the thought of.

WALES & THE MARCHES

DO

If there’s one thing Wales has a lot of (apart from sheep), it’s castles. One of the oldest is Dolbadarn Castle, thought to be built by Llywelyn the Great in the early 13th century as a key defence against the English. It stands in a lonely spot as the solitary guardian of Snowdonia’s Llanberis Pass. Of a different ilk entirely is the fairytale-esque 19th-century Castell Coch , which rises up from the ancient beech woods of Fforest Fawr near Cardiff. Its Gothic towers conceal fascinating High Victorian interiors (cadw.gov.wales).

SEE

The winter storms of 2014 may be fading from memory, but their effects linger. Not least the dredging up of a prehistoric forest from the seabed on the Ceredigion coast . The forest comes and goes, depending on high winds and tides, but if you time it right you’ll catch a glimpse of the eerie 4,500-year-old tree stumps. Or try the The Worm’s Head in Rhossili, a long, thin promontory stretching out into the Irish sea, only accessible for a few hours a day. Made famous by native poet Dylan Thomas, its name comes from the Welsh ‘wurm’, meaning dragon.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

From mountain lamb to fresh seafood, Wales has plenty to offer gourmets and gourmands alike. Although its restaurant scene grows stronger by the year, you can’t beat going straight to the source with fresh cockles . You can forage them for yourself and steam at home, or call by Simply Seafoods in Tenby to pick some up.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; IAN MEDCALF

PHOTOS: ©WILLIAM COLLINSON

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4

GO

The beaches on Wales’ south coast tend to get busy, so head to the secluded sands of Mwnt in the far west instead. Its isolation is partly due to the series of steep steps to be descended before you reach the sea, a chance to spot bottlenose dolphins, harbour porpoises and seals. Avoid more tourists still with a hike up to see Llyn y Fan Fach and Llyn y Fan Fawr, two hidden lakes high in the Brecon Beacons that make a perfect nine-mile loop trail.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BEAR HOTEL CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

The Bear and Crickhowell go hand in hand, like Welsh cakes and bara brith: hardly surprising when you know that the former coaching inn has been offering hospitality to the people of the delightful Brecon Beacons town and weary travellers alike since 1432. And more recently, Robbie Williams, after his split from Take That, stayed here for two weeks while recording at a nearby studio. He played the piano and sung in the function room in the evenings. The Bear brims with character; low beams, antiques, roaring log fires and, most of all, bonhomie – you couldn’t ask for more. Outside, the attractive white and blackbeamed building drips with hanging baskets, with a cobbled forecourt and archway into the inner courtyard. In the bar, a 19th-century stagecoach timetable is still on display. The oak-beamed bedrooms in the main house are charming, comfortable and a step back in time, while there are larger, more modern rooms in the converted stables and coach house. Best of all is the highly regarded food.

‘Eat at the Bear and leave satisfied, that’s our aim,’ they say. And you will.

Doubles from £123 +44 (0)1873 810408; bearhotel.co.uk

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, CONWY

Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentle-paced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. The Grade I-listed house is filled with character. Fifteen bedrooms and 16 postcard-pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate grown and locally sourced ingredients.

The former farmhouse now houses the Spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com 150 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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WALES & THE MARCHES

CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

This elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion is in an unrivalled location, owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family.

The 24 bedrooms and suites are all stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where the eight striking rooms offer an array of treats, from a hospitality box filled with local produce to underfloor heating in the bathrooms. Lightfilled public spaces include a smart sitting room and restaurant where French doors open onto an enchanting garden overlooking the old castle moat. Head chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locallysourced and home-grown produce from the hotel’s Ballingham Hall farm. For light meals, cocktails and dinner, there’s the more informal Bar & Bistro (look out for local beers from Wye Valley Brewery) and, when the weather’s fine, the outdoor terrace. You absolutely mustn’t miss the famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. This is a hotel that fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.

A new garden restaurant is also slated to open in late 2020.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON, POWYS

This is the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head, page 38 and Old Coastguard, page 42). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the plainbut pleasing old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hayon-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival that takes place each spring.

They all love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around the building, listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills, and you feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace.

After a surprisingly refined dinner cooked up by head chef Nick Brodie, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 151

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE GROVE OF NARBERTH NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

This striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many-windowed; the other is gabled, with Arts & Crafts elements that continue inside.

There are 25 beautiful bedrooms, including six stunning cottage suites by top interior designer Martin Hulbert, each with a view of the lovely gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills. Hulbert was also tasked with a recent refurbishment of the original house’s bedrooms, as well as creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground floor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements.

Dinners in the Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms or al fresco on the front terrace, overlooking the newly added lake and lakeside Mulebox bar (perfect for pre-dinner G&Ts). Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 860915; thegrove-narberth.co.uk

PLAS BODEGROES PWLLHELI, GWYNEDD

It’s 33 years since Plas Bodegroes first opened as a hotel and restaurant, and mercifully very little has changed. Chris Chown still dons his chef’s whites every morning and cooks breakfast under the stewardship of head chef Hugh Bracegirdle. His wife Gunna remains the picture of elegance running front of house, aided by her young but knowledgeable team. Their home (the English translation is Rosehip Hall) is a charming Georgian manor with a delicate frill of a veranda smothered in wisteria and roses in summer. With its flowery courtyard and heart-shaped swathe of lawn leading to a 200-year-old avenue of beech trees, it’s a truly romantic place.

Head gardener, Julia Thomas, has been with the hotel for 26 years and you can ask her whatever you like, she knows all there is to know about Plas Bodegroes. The bedrooms are pretty and comfortable and the food in the delightful dining room is some of the best in Wales. Try fragrant Welsh lamb or line-caught local sea bass, accompanied by kindly-priced wines and served by a dedicated local team. Perfection.

Doubles from £130 +44 01758 612363; bodegroes.co.uk 152 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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WALES & THE MARCHES

THE RIVERSIDE INN, AYMESTREY LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE

Set in the heart of the rich and verdant Herefordshire countryside, this black-andwhite-timbered, 16th-century inn sits prettily on the banks of the river Lugg, where guests sip local real ales and cider, contentedly watching the water meander slowly under the ancient bridge. The six original bedrooms are homely, clean and very comfortable – we adore the three fabulous garden rooms, beautifully designed inside and out, with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own deck overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. The Riverside is ideally located for walkers on the central point of the scenic Mortimer trail, as well as being perfectly positioned for fishing and shooting parties. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef patron Andy Link cooks up a storm. As well as foraging for myriad ingredients, he grows 50 different fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welsh border produce. Simply the very best and fabulous value. A true gem.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk

TYDDYN LLAN LLANDRILLO, DENBIGHSHIRE

Just outside Llandrillo stands this modest Georgian house with a sympathetic extension employing local slate and stone. Once a shooting lodge belonging to the Dukes of Westminster, and on the edge of glorious Snowdonia National Park, the house offers stunning views of the Vale of Edeyrnion and the slopes of the Berwyn Mountains beyond.

Susan and Bryan Webb (he is the Michelinstarred chef) have been at the helm since 2002. In the dining room, Wedgwood-blue with tall windows, you’ll find some of the very best cooking in Wales with a seasonal menu that changes every day – and there’s a superb, excellent value wine list, too. There are 12 idiosyncratic but immaculate bedrooms and an elegant garden suite. After an outstanding breakfast, cooked by Bryan, the gutsy and adventurous can choose to hike the eight miles from Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfalls over the Berwyn Mountains. For those looking for something less demanding, stroll around the four acres of ground, and later linger over afternoon tea by the fire or on the veranda.

A lovely, gentle place to stay.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1490 440264; tyddynllan.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 153

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Scotland The land of lochs and munros, heather and gorse, castles and cottages. Scotland’s wild landscapes aren’t for the faint of heart, but it’s a place that’ll capture yours forever

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Pawel Zygmunt, Moody Day at Kilt Rock, Mealt Falls, Isle of Skye, Scotland.

Taken from the book Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collections 11 and 12 (AA Publishing, £25)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Helen Grime The Scottish classical composer enjoys a single malt and a sculptural garden that you have to reach in a boat from the mainland Balmaha (lochlomondtrossachs.org).

Local lore? ‘Haud yer wheesht!’ Which means be quiet. ‘That’s pure barry!’

Which means amazing or great.

Quick bite? Contini George Street,

Edinburgh. Great whether you’re looking for all day dining or coffee (contini.com).

Languorous lunch? Kinneuchar Inn in East Neuk, head chef James Ferguson is amazing, and this is a must for anyone who is remotely near the area (kinneucharinn.com).

Favourite walk? Dollar Glen. I lived in Dollar for several years as a small child and the gorge and waterfalls are spectacular.

Decent pint? I don’t drink beer, but I’d have to go to Smith & Gertrude in Edinburgh for a really heavenly glass of wine (smithandgertrude.com).

Spot of romance? Gleneagles in Perthshire would be perfect for a romantic luxury stay with incredible surroundings.

Great if you play golf too, although that’s not really my scene (gleneagles.com). One of the many beautiful Scottish islands such as Iona would also be a good choice (welcometoiona.com).

History hit? Orkney for the Neolithic monuments: an unforgettable and timeless experience (unesco.org).

Culture vulture? Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s Hill House in Helensburgh.

I’ve always loved him and there is so much of his work to be seen in Scotland. This is particularly special though (nts.org.uk).

Far from the madding crowd? I recommend Inchcailloch, a tiny island in Loch Lomond. This is a stunning spot

You absolutely must…

Go to the Edinburgh Festival – it’s an absolute must (eif.co.uk). There’s also a hidden underground city in Edinburgh of chambers and vaults, unchanged since the 18th century.

It’s a ghostly thing to visit but a unique glimpse into another world and time(historic-uk.com).

Don’t miss a meal at the Kinneuchar Inn

Visit Hill House, designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh

malt with ice or ‘on the rocks’ – a splash of water will suffice.

Even worse would be adding a mixer!

Take away? A single malt from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (smws.com).

Shop till you drop? I have always visited Victoria Street and the Grassmarket in Edinburgh. They have lots of independent and quirky shops that I’ve enjoyed since my teenage years. I also love Stockbridge for the same reasons.

Favourite garden? I’ve always loved the botanic gardens in Edinburgh (rbge.org.uk)and Glasgow (glasgowbotanicgardens.com), but have always wanted to see the Garden of Cosmic Speculation (which is privately owned, but opened once a year as part of the Scotlands Gardens Scheme charity), in Holywood (gardenofcosmicspeculation.com).

Back to nature? The area around Kyle of Lochalsh on the north west coast of Scotland is stunningly beautiful.

Family fun? Try a picnic and water sports on the shore of Loch Lomond. helengrime.com

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

The locals wouldn’t like it if you… Ordered a single

SCOTLAND

DO

For an awe-inspiring phenomenon, take a five-hour trip north of the Scottish capital.

Orcas, creatures you’d normally have to see in the Arctic Ocean, are known to swim just off the coast of Moray Firth . If you’re in luck, you may just have your very own David Attenborough moment. Known as the Harrods of the north, at The House of Bruar in Pitlochry, you’ll find beautiful Scottish country knitwear, leather boots and handcrafted gifts. The food hall is also a treasure of gourmet delights; piled high with wild boar paté, Scottish whiskies, Isle of Arran cheeses and hampers, it’s not to be missed (houseofbruar.com).

1

SEE

If all the swilling and peat-chat of whisky tours feels a bit too much, head for an environmentally-friendly alternative at Nc’nean Distillery , a new start-up making innovative botanical spirits on the Scottish west coast, with stunning bonus views of the Morvern peninsula (ncnean.com). More of a swinger than a swiller? Golf enthusiasts should head for the 12-hole layout at Shiskine on the Isle of Arran.

Overlooking the Mull of Kintyre, the course takes you all the way up to the Drumadoon cliffs before ending at the shoreline (shiskinegolf.com).

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EAT

While the words ‘Scottish delicacy’ might leave you feeling nervous, seafood enthusiasts would be mad to miss out on Arbroath Smokies. For hundreds of years, Abroath natives have hand-smoked locally caught haddock in halved barrels, trapping the smoke under layers of hessian sacking. Try them for yourself at The Old Brewhouse in Arbroath, Angus (oldbrewhousearbroath.co.uk). For a tiny, atmospheric restaurant, Inver on the shores of Loch Fyne is the kind of place you 5 dream of stumbling across on a blustery walk (inverrestaurant.co.uk). Two hours further north you’ll find Tom Lewis’ Monachyle Mhor . Expect venison from the local hills and vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden, plus some seriously atmospheric loch-side views (monachylemhor.net).

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GO 6

Is it the Shetlands or the Bahamas? From the sugar-fine sands at St Ninian’s Isle, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d parachuted to a tropical paradise (though perhaps slightly colder). Awardwinning extravaganzas alongside tiny comedy sets in back rooms of pubs have earned the Edinburgh Festival Fringe its cult status, but for a more niche, under-the-radar event, try the Edinburgh Craft Beer Festival. Packed with live music acts, street food and the world’s top brewers, it’s hard to beat (edinburghcraftbeerfestival.co.uk). Except, perhaps, by newcomer Camp Glen Dye , a series of wild food camps in the highlands. Expect foraging, wild swimming, wild cooking classes and more (glendyecabinsandcottages.com).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

The Balmoral is Sir Rocco Forte’s beloved five-star property at the heart of Edinburgh, originally built in 1902 in impressive Scottish baronial style as a landmark for Waverley station. One of the world’s great railway hotels, The Balmoral’s clock is cleverly set three minutes fast to ensure guests never miss their trains. Exuding a timeless elegance, the bedrooms have been transformed by Olga Polizzi, deputy chairman and director of design for Forte Hotels. Highlights include the large signature suites: the Scone & Crombie and the Glamis. With up to three bedrooms and spacious living rooms, they make the ultimate Edinburgh base for couples and families. The Balmoral’s two restaurants offer a choice of fine or brasserie dining: Number One features a Michelin-starred menu celebrating Scottish produce, while Brasserie Prince marries the best of Scottish ingredients with fine French cooking. Afternoon tea is served under the dome of splendid Palm Court, while the noted whisky bar, Scotch, is a must for anyone partial to a dram from the 500-strong collection.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1315 562414; roccofortehotels.com

THE DUNSTANE HOUSES EDINBURGH

Two handsome Victorian villas standing opposite each other have been transformed into a single stylish family-run boutique hotel that offers a unique bolthole in Edinburgh. Infused with the spirit and romance of Orkney, where the owners’ roots lie, the interior blends the elegance of the neoclassical Old Town with vintage touches, contemporary flair and well-chosen art; it’s a decorative approach that’s both striking and subtle. The 35 bedrooms, spread between Dunstane House and Hampton House, are all different. Yours might have bold wallpaper and fabrics, a theatrical headboard, classic four-poster bed, in-room Victorian roll-top or fabulous Fired Earth bathroom. They cater to most budgets, from ‘cosy wee doubles’ to uber-luxurious suites.

At the heart of the hotel, the elegantly laid-back Ba’ Bar provides all-day dining from a seasonally changing modern Scottish menu, and there’s an impressive selection of premium craft spirits.

The whisky cabinet is a connoisseur’s treasure trove of vintage single malts and blends. It’s really no wonder that it won the best guest hotel experience in Scotland at the prestigious Visit Scotland Thistle Awards 2020.

Doubles from £174 +44 (0)1313 376169; thedunstane.com 158 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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SCOTLAND

THE FIFE ARMS BRAEMAR, ABERDEENSHIRE

If you think that Scottish hotels – especially ones close to the Queen’s beloved Balmoral Castle – are set in their ways, then get ready to have your preconceptions turned inside out, upside down and round and round in a whirl.

The Fife Arms, in the heart of Braemar, is Instagram gold. Its interiors by Russell Sage recall the busy, eclectic taste of the Victorian era, with the richest of wallpapers, brocades, velvets, taxidermy and grandfather clocks – full of interest and yet never fusty. The art, courtesy of its owners, international gallerists Iwan and Manuela Wirth, is simply amazing: a Picasso dominates the tartan-walled drawing room; there’s a Lucien Freud, a Louise Bourgeois spider, an extraordinary ceiling by Zhang Enli and a flying stag with swan’s wings in the bar. Locals congregate here: The Fife Arms is first and foremost a place of hospitality and you will eat, drink, relax and sleep here as well as in any traditional, comforting Scottish hotel. Just don’t forget your camera.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1339 720200; thefifearms.com

KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE, HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND

Skye is one of the most spectacular places on earth and Kinloch sits in one of its most beautiful parts, the shores of Loch na Dal. Fittingly, given its history as a hunting lodge, it offers the services of its own ghillie, Mitchell Partridge, for stalking, fishing, foraging and wilderness walks – he’s very knowledgeable and known for providing great ‘craic’. Foodies flock here. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey. Although no longer living here, their reputation for the best Highland hospitality continues with their charming daughter, Isabella, at the helm. Unfussy seasonal cooking has always been the hallmark here, with seared Fort Augustus venison loin and Broadford chard or fillet of Mallaig sea trout with fresh peas.

Inside there’s a welcoming mix of the wellbred and the unpretentious, with antiques, family portraits and a cosy whisky bar for a nightcap before heading to bed in one of the attractive, seriously comfortable rooms.

Kinloch is somewhere to relax and recharge, and almost impossible to leave.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 159

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE MACHRIE ISLE OF ISLAY, ARGYLL

What a spectacular setting for a few rounds of golf, right by the dunes on the Isle of Islay.

This magnificent hotel was given a top-totoe refresh two years ago and now has 47 clean-lined contemporary rooms, suites and lodges (the latter are adjacent to the main building on the edge of the golf course and come with an open-plan living and dining area – perfect for those who prefer to selfcater). The acclaimed course was designed by Willie Campbell, later modernised by former European Ryder Cup vice captain D J Russell; there’s also the six-hole, par-three Wee course, an all-weather, five-bay driving range and an indoor golf studio with a simulator that analyses swing. When it comes to downtime, there are three lovely lounges to relax in, plus the PureGray spa. Start the evening with sundowners on the terrace of the 18 Restaurant & Bar – it has beautiful panoramic views across the green to Laggan Bay – before tucking into delicious comfort food classics such as the unmissable double-baked Isle of Mull cheddar cheese soufflé and Islay Ale beef, mushroom and bacon pie.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1496 302310; campbellgrayhotels.com

THE PIERHOUSE PORT APPIN, ARGYLL

Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, The Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. A cosy, relaxed and friendly hotel, it’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world and for sampling the very best of its local produce.

The 12 comfortable bedrooms include several with loch views, which look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Downstairs, head chef Michael Leathley is in charge of the AA rosette Seafood restaurant, where he calls his cooking ‘bringing the outside in’ – in other words, the freshest west-coast seafood such as creel-caught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters, plus Scottish meat, game and vegetables, all prepared and cooked using classic, simple techniques. There’s also a residents’ lounge with a wood-burning stove, a Finnish sauna for relaxing after a day spent hiking or biking, and The Ferry Bar (named after the foot passenger ferry from Port Appin that has been running since 1750) where you’ll find an impressive selection of Scottish gins and more than 100 types of malt whisky to sample.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk 160 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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SCOTLAND

SCHLOSS ROXBURGHE KELSO, ROXBURGHSHIRE

A schloss in Scotland? Yes indeed: the newminted Roxburghe Hotel, on a 300-acre estate in the Scottish Borders, was formerly owned by the Duke of Roxburghe and has hosted many aristocratic guests, including, reputedly, Bonnie Prince Charlie back in 1745. It now mixes traditional Scottish hospitality with German innovation and sky-high standards. Re-opened in June last year after an extensive refurbishment by its new owners, the hotel has never looked better.

Interiors by Kitzig Interior Design combine classic and contemporary with a mix of materials: Scottish patterns and colours, oak, natural stone and linen. Each of the 20 bedrooms is individually decorated and in the Sunlaws restaurant the estate-to-plate ingredients focus on modern Scottish dishes with a French twist.

The country sporting and leisure facilities on the hotel’s estate are second to none, from fishing to to the 18-hole championship golf course. Future developments include a separate extension scheduled for completion in 2021. It will consist of 57 additional rooms, a new restaurant, state-ofthe-art conference and banqueting facilities, and a 600 sq/m spa area with a heated outdoor pool.

Doubles from £235 + 44 (0)1573 450331; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com

THE THREE CHIMNEYS COLBOST, ISLE OF SKYE

Clued-up foodies have been flocking to this renowned three AA-rosette restaurant with rooms on the shores of Loch Dunvegan for more than 35 years, attracted by its ethos of showcasing Scotland’s natural land and sea larder. Virtually all the ingredients used at The Three Chimneys are sourced from within a few miles, as well as the wider Scottish Highlands: head chef Scott Davies collects fresh lobster, crab and langoustines from the fishermen’s boats in Dunvegan’s harbour; Soay lamb and pork from Iron Age pigs come from Orbost Farm, while nearby Eaglescreek Croft’s heritage potatoes and purple kale goes straight from plot to plate in the same day. For those who fancy a frontrow seat watching the chefs in action, there’s also the Kitchen Table (bookable for groups of two to eight people), where you can order a ‘surprise’ menu to try. Next door, the House Over-By has six contemporary, splitlevel rooms to choose from, all with luxury pampering products in the bathrooms. It really is the ideal place to stay after a truly unforgettable supper.

Doubles from £275 in winter, £365 in summer +44 (0)1470 511258; threechimneys.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 161

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The Island of Ireland

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

From the wild beauty of its coast to its rich green mountains, the ancient Emerald Isle offers an experience you’ll never forget

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PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Sheep at sunset in Connemara, the Republic of Ireland

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE INSIDER’S GUIDE

Marian Keyes The author on Ireland’s wild and beautiful landscapes, romantic escapes and ancient history visitors, and it’s a beautiful, underpopulated county of lakes and low hills.

Local gossip? Irish people are usually fairly good at not bothering celebrities, but when Matt Damon was staying locally for several weeks, people did get excited. But they were also very protective, and wouldn’t tell outsiders or newspapers about how he fitted in with the locals, swimming in the sea and so on.

Local lore? ‘The man who made time made plenty of it.’ This translates to: Irish people are never on time.

Quick bite? Café du Journal in the pretty

village of Monkstown, Co Dublin.

Great food, lovely service and always lots happening.

Languorous lunch? Any of the restaurants at the Merrion Hotel in Dublin. Patrick Guilbaud is very fancy, the Cellar Bar and the Garden Room more relaxed, or just have a club sandwich in the lounge (merrionhotel.com).

Favourite walk? Devil’s Glen near Ashford in Co Wicklow – a beautiful wild glen with a waterfall, but with wooden artworks, and quotations carved in the stone.

Decent pint? Kenny’s in Lahinch, Co Clare.

My mother is from Co Clare, and the whole family still likes to go to Lahinch, where we went on summer holidays as children.

Kenny’s always has great atmosphere and often has music (kennysbar.ie).

Spot of romance? Ardmore in Co Waterford. The Cliff House Hotel is just dreamy (cliffhousehotel.ie).

History hit? Newgrange in Co Meath is over 5,000 years old – a prehistoric monument that’s aligned with the rising sun on the winter solstice. It’s older than Stonehenge and the pyramids (newgrange.com).

Culture vulture? The Museum of Literature Ireland is new and has great exhibitions showing the great tradition of Irish storytelling (moli.ie).

Far from the madding crowd? Most tourists head for Dublin and for the south and west of Ireland. But Co Leitrim doesn’t get so many

You can’t beat black pudding from Clonakilty in Co Cork

Head to the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore for a romantic escape

Find your favourite authors at the Gutter Bookshop in Dublin

See some of the local sport – Gaelic football and hurling are the two main Irish sports, and if you can get a ticket to a big match at Croke Park you’ll see highly skilled amateur players in front of a passionate crowd of 80,000 people.

The locals wouldn’t like it if… You forgot Ireland is a different country from Britain.

Take away? The black pudding from Clonakilty in Co Cork is the best in the world.

Shop till you drop? I’m biased towards books, but the Gutter Bookshop in Dublin and Dalkey is fabulous (gutterbookshop.com).

Favourite garden? Garnish Island in Co Cork. Near Glengarriff in Bantry Bay, it’s a small island known to horticulturists and lovers of trees and shrubs all around the world as an garden of rare beauty (garnishisland.com).

Back to nature? Connemara in Co Galway is wild and beautiful. There are great walks in the hills, deserted beaches for wild swimming, or just relax and enjoy the views.

Family fun? Dublin Zoo. It’s a great zoo for conservation and care for animals, but mostly I go because my nephews love it (dublinzoo.ie).

Marian Keyes’ latest book, Grown Ups (Michael Joseph, £20), is out now

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©DEAN CHALKLEY

You absolutely must…

THE ISLAND OF IRELAND

DO

The coastal waters off the south west of Ireland are filled with a fascinating variety of marine life. Catch a boat from Baltimore in Co Cork to be in with a chance of spotting humpback and fin whales, dolphins, grey seals and turtles. Those curious about Ireland’s long tradition of Celtic fairytales, meanwhile, should head to the National Leprechaun Museum in Dublin, where skilled storytellers will transport visitors to the Otherworld of myths and legends (leprechaunmuseum.ie).

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The Emerald Isle is bursting with natural beauty, but for somewhere off the tourist track head to Glencar Waterfall in Co Leitrim.

With a drop of around 50 feet it’s a small but enchanting cascade – and one that caught the eye of a young WB Yeats, who mentions it in his folkloric poem The Stolen Child. Equally captivating is Boyeghether Bay in Donegal, which is ominously referred to as Murder Hole Beach by locals – most likely a nod to the wild waters that whip around the shore. If you can make peace with the macabre moniker you’ll be rewarded with the kind of sun-kissed sands you’d expect to find in the Caribbean – just be careful of the tides.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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With its endless coastline, it’s no surprise Ireland is home to an abundance of spectacular seafood.

Galway is famous for its oysters, showcased at the annual Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival that takes place in late September (galwayoysterfestival.com). But you can also get your fresh fish fix at lesser known spots in Dublin, like the low-key Fish Shop in Smithfield (fish-shop.ie). Another emerging Irish foodie destination is Co Wexford, where you’ll find craft chocolate brand Bean and 4 Goose (beanandgoose.ie), innovative seafood restaurant La Côte (lacote.ie), and Aldridge Lodge restaurant and guesthouse, which holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand (aldridgelodge.com).

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; ©DEAN CHALKLEY

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Oscar Wilde described Connemara as a place of ‘savage beauty’, thanks to its wild, rugged landscapes. These are showcased to perfection at Connemara National Park , which spans 2,000 hectares of bog, mountains, heath and woodlands. To this day the region is often referred to as the most authentic place in Ireland, particularly as it’s one of the country’s few remaining strongholds of the Irish Gaelic language. While there, take a trip to the magnificent Kylemore Abbey : admire its architecture, learn of its rich history, and explore its glorious six-acre walled gardens (kylemoreabbey.com).

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS

One of Ireland’s most important neoclassical houses, Ballyfin stands in its own 614-acre demesne, including lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views.

A Downton-esque knot of staff await guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school, yet warm and friendly – Richard E. Grant once quipped that it is ‘like stepping back in time, without the inconvenience of no electricity’. The reception rooms are filled with superb antiques and paintings, and there’s the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and treatment rooms. The 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country house fashion. There is also a beautiful private Gardener’s Cottage available to rent. As for the food, with the highly regarded Sam Moody at the helm – he won a Michelin star for the Bath Priory – it effortlessly lives up to the surroundings.

Standards are sky high at Ballyfin, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does: this is one of Europe’s great hotels.

Doubles from €580 +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com

BALLYVOLANE HOUSE CASTLELYONS, COUNTY CORK

Imagine a grand, Italianate, Irish Georgian country house, gorgeous but lived-in and run as a guest house by its old-school owners since the mid-1980s. Imagine their son growing up there, then leaving to work at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and later as general manager at Babington House. Imagine him returning home to take over the reins and run the hotel his way. You are imagining Ballyvolane. Filled with antiques, oozing atmosphere, it’s also – thanks to deft touches from Justin Green and his wife Jenny – somewhere that’s cool and stylish too. It’s that hard-to-achieve ideal: a place where guests can unwind but feel glamorous and special too. There are Persian rugs, antiques, quirky retro tables, roaring fires and a lavishly stocked honesty bar, with Justin’s own delicious gin, Bertha’s Revenge, which is made from local cows' milk, water from their well and foraged botanicals, taking pride of place.

The bedrooms are lovely, and the food – eaten communally unless you specify otherwise (you won’t) – delicious. Breakfast is whenever you want. There’s glamping to try, too, in the lovely gardens, and fishing as well if you fancy it.

Doubles from €200 +353 (0)253 6349; ballyvolanehouse.ie 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE ISLAND OF IRELAND

CURRAREVAGH HOUSE LOUGH CORRIB, COUNTY GALWAY

‘Things have always stayed the same here,’ says Henry Hodgson, the fifth generation to run the family home as a guest house, ‘it would be rude to change them now.’

And that’s the joy of this Victorian country house, which first welcomed paying guests in 1890, as a sporting lodge. Beautifully set on Lough Corrib, with huge sash windows and original shutters, the house was built in 1842, though the family has owned the estate since the 18th century. Inside, you are transported to a calmer, more dignified time (wifi is the only modern concession), where a gong heralds dinner and the breakfast coffee is served in original ’50s glass Cona receptacles, warmed by methylated spirit burners. Henry is charming and funny and totally at ease; his wife Lucy (they have three young daughters) is a marvellous cook and dinner is always delicious. You feel completely relaxed: what more could you possibly want? Room keys? ‘We don’t have them,’ says Henry, ‘your things will be perfectly safe.’ And you know, without doubt, that he speaks the truth.

Doubles from €160 +353 (0)9155 2312; currarevagh.com

DROMOLAND CASTLE NEWMARKET-ON-FERGUS, COUNTY CLARE

The ancestral home of the O’Briens of Dromoland, whose lineage dates back 1,000 years to Brian Boru, one of the last High Kings of Ireland, this historic castle hotel has been welcoming guests since the 16th century.

As you’d expect, it’s fit for royalty, from the delightfully sumptuous bedrooms (the best suites each have a grand four-poster bed and a separate dressing room) to the fine-dining restaurant the Earl of Thomond, where chefs marry classical cooking techniques with the finest Irish produce. The beauty of a stay here is that days are as relaxed or active as you wish.

For those who want to take things slowly, why not spend the morning reading the papers by the fire in the antique-filled gallery and drawing room, before booking in for pampering treatments in the spa? Meanwhile, the 450acre estate offers country pursuits galore, including archery, clay shooting, horse riding and falconry. Dromoland Lough is excellent for trout fishing and boating, plus there’s an 18hole championship golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool, walled gardens and woodland to explore, and go-karting for the kids.

Doubles from €390 +353 (0)6136 8144; dromoland.ie 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 167

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GALGORM SPA & GOLF RESORT COUNTY ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND

The River Maine flows through this lush, 163-acre parkland that is renowned for its par-72 championship golf course and thermal spa – the first of its kind in Ireland.

Only 30 minutes drive from Belfast yet a world away, it has 124 bedrooms with Rolf Benz furniture, spacious marble bathrooms and knockout views of the estate. Spend days in the spa, drifting between the sanarium and snow cabin to the River House on stilts with infrared heated loungers for posttreatment relaxation (the Serenity Bathing experience among the olive trees and apple orchard is a must too). Or playing golf: as well as the main course, there is an academy with a 24-bay floodlit driving range and the Wee Course, a six-hole pitch and putt.

There are more than 400 varieties of gin to choose from in the Gin Library and, when it comes to food there is ample choice for all palates, from the fine-dining, three AA Rosette River Room Restaurant to the casual Fratelli Ristorante pizzeria and Gillies Grill that overlooks the stables.

Doubles from £178 +44 (0)28 2588 1001; galgorm.com

GREGANS CASTLE BALLYVAUGHAN, COUNTY CLARE

Although Gregans is certainly a gem, it’s not a castle, despite the name. It’s another of Ireland’s fine crop of Georgian houses – the real castle, a 15th-century tower house, stands across the road. With sweeping windows and a surprising spread of rooms, both gracious and intimate, the house has an immediately soothing effect, but it’s the location that creates the extra twist. Gregans Castle stands in the Burren, a unique region of limestone terraces strewn with wildflowers, ancient burial tombs, stone forts and ecclesiastical ruins. It’s no surprise then that JRR Tolkien – who stayed here – is said to have been influenced by its magic when writing The Lord of the Rings. The 21-bedroom hotel purrs along like a well-oiled classic car, as only family-run hotels can. Simon Haden took over from his parents in 2003, and his wife Freddie is responsible for bringing the interiors beautifully up to date with voguish paint colours, sympathetic and stylish lighting, sofas, modern artworks and so on.

And as for chef Robbie McCauley’s food – it’s quite simply marvellous.

Doubles from €265 +353 (0)65 707 7005; gregans.ie 168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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THE ISLAND OF IRELAND

THE MERRION DUBLIN, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

Dublin’s finest hotel is effortlessly gracious. Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat fires, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th and 20th century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. The fine dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, and there’s a spa with a pillared infinity pool. No surprise that charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since The Merrion opened, but quite a surprise to find that was just 22 years ago. It feels timeless.

Doubles from €295 +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com

THE WESTBURY DUBLIN, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

Standards are always high at The Doyle Collection, and never more so than at The Westbury, a Dublin landmark. Like its three London sisters, The Kensington, The Bloomsbury and The Marylebone (see pages 93, 90 and 95), it marries sleek design with intuitive staff and luxuriously comfortable rooms and suites. Its unrivalled location, overlooking Grafton Street, means a galaxy of consumer delights on the doorstep. After a long day exploring the city your room will seem like the answer to a prayer – enveloping and soothing in shades of taupe, with customwoven Irish wool carpets, mohair-covered chairs and underfloor-heated marble bathrooms.

For dining there’s Balfes, a contemporary cross between a New York eatery and Parisian brasserie, where the dishes match the edgy decor, or haute cuisine at the sophisticated Wilde.

Don’t miss afternoon tea on The Gallery, home to one of Ireland’s leading private art collections, including works by Norah McGuinness, Barrie Cooke, John Lavery, Patrick Scott and Louis le Brocquy. The Sidecar, meanwhile, is a stylish modern take on a classic 1930s cocktail bar.

Doubles from €395 +353 (0)1679 1122; doylecollection.com 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 169

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Private Houses Still want to keep your distance? Stay in your very own home from home with these elegant houses to book now – perfect for parties of all kinds, big or small

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Brownber Hall & House in the Yorkshire Dales is also just a stone’s throw from the Lake District

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

16A WINCHESTER WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

This beautiful house takes boutique selfcatering to a new, more intimate level.

A former livery and dance hall, the main house has three gorgeous, inviting bedrooms, which can be booked separately or all together.

Room 41 is classy, reminiscent of a New York loft apartment with exposed brickwork and industrial lighting. Room 19 is elegant and simple, whereas room 98 maxes out on space and style as the biggest of the lot. Downstairs, the home-from-home spaces include a decadent library with cosy nooks to curl up and read a book; a large hall complete with a reclaimed wooden dining table and grand piano; and, from October, a new kitchen. There’s also Next Door, a one-bedroom house with a super king bed and an additional mezzanine level Japanese-style bed, a large kitchen and a movie room. Both properties share a lovely sun-trap patio. When you do fancy venturing out, you’re in the heart of Winchester – home to Rick Stein’s eponymous restaurant and River Cottage Canteen, as well as umpteen independent shops where you can browse the hours away.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)7730 510663; 16a-winchester.co.uk

BIBURY FARM BARNS BIBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In 2017, fourth generation mixed farmers Polly and George Phillips set about converting five ancient stone barns on their land into a selfcatering rural retreat. The result is a series of gorgeous hideaways suitable for everyone from young families to large gatherings, each combining contemporary style with rustic character: wood-beamed kitchens, open-plan living spaces with log burners, private courtyards for alfresco dining. Photographs and paintings by local artists adorn the walls; there are huge marble-effect showers and verdigris bathrooms; snugs for film nights and boot rooms for kicking off muddy wellies after walks – perhaps along the River Coln or around chocolate-box Bibury village, ten minutes away. The largest, The Grain Store, sleeps ten and has a large cedar hot tub; the smallest is the Cart Shed, which sleeps six. The barns can be booked individually or together, and there’s a concierge service so anything from a fully-stocked fridge to chefcooked dinners can be arranged. Located between Burford and Cirencester, this is an ideal base from which to explore the Cotswolds.

From £1,575 for a three-night weekend in a threebedroom barn, low season +44 (0)1285 706188; biburyfarm.com 172 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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PRIVATE HOUSES

BROWNBER HALL & HOUSE NEWBIGGIN-ON-LUNE, CUMBRIA

Overlooking the Howgill Fells and a stone’s throw from the Lake District, Grade II-listed Brownber Hall was opened as an eight bedroom guest house by Amanda and Peter Jaques-Walker in 2017. It was hugely successful, winning awards and charming visitors with its homely bedrooms, eclectic decor (cherry-picked vintage furniture, William Morris wallpaper, stained glass windows), and hands-on friendly service. Now, as a response to Covid-19, the forward-thinking couple are changing direction, turning the place into a self-catered private rental (and launching four-bedroom farmhouse Brownber House next door). Guests can expect a contactless check-in and a virtual concierge service; fridges pre-stocked with local supplies; freshly prepared picnics and home-cooked meals delivered to the doorstep, taking the hassle out of cooking after a day out hiking the fells. Both properties have spacious gardens, BBQs and firepits, and come with a welcome hamper with local sourdough and cakes. Bike rentals and experiences such as horse riding and fishing can be organised, too.

From £1,200 for four nights mid-week in Brownber House and £1,520 in Brownber Hall +44 (0)1539 623208; brownber.co.uk

PLAS DINAM LLANDINAM, POWYS

An intriguing history – and a mini-museum of its own – gives Plas Dinam a certain stately grandeur if you’re looking to rent an imposing country mansion. Yet it retains a warm and friendly atmosphere thanks to owners Eldrydd and Tyson, who returned from Australia to take over the house from her parents, Lord and Lady Davies, in 2012. The couple are renowned for going the extra mile to make your stay a magical one, though the pizza oven, tennis court, stunning views, numerous sitting rooms and impressive billiard room leave little else to be desired. Not to mention the private lake for wild swimming, wildflower meadow with rare orchids and firepit for toasting marshmallows. All 15 bedrooms are traditionally decorated and filled with little luxuries like fluffy towels, quality linen and Ren skincare products. A much-loved family home for many years, its 12 acres of woodland set in the picturesque Severn valley are an invitation for children to explore, while the mansion and glass-roofed stables are perfect for large family get-togethers, parties, weddings and weekends away ‘just because’.

From £4,800 per weekend +44 (0)7415 503554; plasdinamcountryhouse.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 173

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE OLD DAIRY BLOXHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

Tucked away down a quiet country lane in the lovely village of Bloxham in north Oxfordshire, you’ll find the exquisite Old Dairy, one of the properties in the Sand & Stone Escapes portfolio.

A beautifully appointed home that sleeps up to eight adults, three children and an infant, it’s well suited to two families wanting to share a holiday together. The house is indeed an old dairy. One of the windows in the dining room was formerly the sales counter. Children are brilliantly catered for, with stacks of board games, DVDs, table football and Nerf guns, not to mention the outdoor pool, trampoline, swing and climbing frame. Adults can mellow out and relax with the papers on a sunlounger, while admiring the immaculate gardens filled with wisteria, lavender and roses. Stock up with fresh local produce from nearby Wykham Park farm shop (the home-made flapjacks are a must), and you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to fine pubs, both within walking distance (The Red Lion) and a short drive (The Chequers and The Kingham Plough). There are oodles of things to do, too: a visit to Broughton Castle or what must be the UK’s smartest zoo, the Cotswold Wildlife Park.

From £400 per night (three-night minimum stay) +44 (0)2087 403097; sandandstoneescapes.com

RUTLAND RETREATS OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Nestled among nature within a gated estate are Rutland Retreats’ stunning, eco-built timberand cedar-clad two and three-bedroom cottages.

With log burners, sedum roofs and smart finishes throughout, the Retreats offer the perfect self-catering staycation accommodation for families. Each one has an open plan living and dining space, master bedrooms with French doors that open onto the garden and a patio, perfect for morning coffee. Dine out at the adjacent Barnsdale Lodge Hotel, where fresh, locally sourced produce goes into the restaurant’s sumptuous dishes, lovingly cooked

by Executive Chef, David Bukowicki. The retreats are run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for their quality and location, represent superb value for money. Nearby, the picturesque towns of Oakham, Uppingham and Stamford offer boutique shopping for the most discerning visitors. Thanks to its location so close to Rutland Water, you are likely to see red kite, deer and partridge. This delightful country refuge offers peace, comfort and an exceptional base for sailing, fishing, riding, walking and exploring Rutland, England’s smallest county.

From £375 for a three-night stay from Monday to Friday +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk 174 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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PRIVATE HOUSES

THORPE MANOR THORPE MANDEVILLE, OXFORDSHIRE

Pulling up to this gloriously grand grade II*listed Georgian house in the pretty Oxfordshire village of Thorpe Mandeville, it’s clear that this is an English country pile with a difference.

No fusty furniture or creaky floorboards here; recently completely restored, each of its many sprawling rooms including 14 standout ensuite bedrooms, which have been meticulously designed, seamlessly blending modern touches with period furniture. An exclusive-use homestay, it’s popular for special occasions, especially parties and weddings, with a wealth of sociable spaces, like its inviting dining room seating 30; a sumptuous drawing room with plump sofas and piles of boardgames in front of the cosy fireplace; a lavish wood-panelled bar for an intimate night cap and a showstopper cinema with velvet armchairs and an enormous screen.

Popcorn and snacks are stashed in the pantry, along with an abundance of other treats for your stay. Cooking is at your discretion – the kitchen is beautifully equipped with everything you may need and local suppliers and caterers can also ease the load while you relax in these most exquisite surroundings.

From £20,000 a week +44 (0)1295 711006 ;thorpemanorhouse.co.uk

TWO BARE FEET WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

Hannah McIntyre, the owner of this quirkily designed and utterly unique house, has a knack for finding properties that feel a little lost and turning them into modern hospitality spaces. Her other project, 16a Winchester (see p172), was once a former livery, then a dance hall. Two Bare Feet was an office before Hannah beautifully refurbished it with her eye for splashes of colour amid serene spaces, and respect for the building’s original charm.

Now a state-of the-art self-catered property, it makes a perfect base for exploring Winchester’s picturesque cathedral city. Hire the whole place and make use of the excellently equipped kitchen for a family weekend away, or book one of the three individually designed, fresh and contemporary duplex-style bedrooms, with snazzy en suites, as unrivaled base for a work trip. While you’ll be left to your own devices, expect to find hotel-style luxury touches such as Egyptian cotton sheets and fluffy white towels. Eggs and bread are included, and there is a brilliant breakfast honesty tray for any extra morning nibbles.

As comfortable as it is convenient.

Doubles from £75 +44 (0)7730 510663; twobarefeetwinchester.co.uk 2020/21 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 175

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Index 11 Cadogan Gardens 16a Winchester

D

86 172

A

Artist Residence Brighton Artist Residence Bristol Artist Residence Oxfordshire Artist Residence Penzance Artist Residence Pimlico Askham Hall The Athenaeum Hotel Augill Castle

72 50 72 36 86 136 87 136

B

Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballyvolane House The Balmoral Bank House The Bar Convent Barnsdale Lodge The Bath Arms Batty Langley’s The Bear at Crickhowell The Beaumont Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms Bedruthan Hotel & Spa The Bell Inn Langford Belmond Cadogan Hotel The Berkeley Bibury Farm Barns Bingham Riverhouse Blakeney Hotel The Bloomsbury Bodysgallen Hall & Spa Bowood House The Bradley Broad Street Townhouse Brocco on the Park Brownber Hall & House Brown’s Hotel

73 166 166 158 124 137 116 50 87 150 88 73 51 36 102 88 89 172 89 124 90 150 51 102 52 137 173 90

C

Cary Arms & Spa Castle House The Cat Inn The Cavendish Hotel Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa Claridge’s Cley Windmill Cliveden COMO The Halkin Congham Hall Hotel The Connaught The Cookie Jar Cowley Manor The Crab & Lobster Currarevagh House

37 151 74 116 62 91 125 74 91 125 92 138 103 75 167

The Dabbling Duck Dormy House Dorset Square Driftwood Hotel Dromoland Castle The Dunstane Houses

Kinloch Lodge Knightsbridge Hotel 126 103 92 37 167 158

E

The Eastbury Hotel East End Arms Ellenborough Park

52 62 104

117 104 151 138 159 105 63 38 105 106

The Machrie Hotel & Golf Links Maison Talbooth The Manor at Sway The Marylebone The Merrion Hotel The Methuen Arms The Middlethorpe Hall Middleton Lodge Estate Milsoms Moonfleet Manor Moor Hall

168 75 139 63 139 76 168 152 126 38

The Nare New Park Manor No 131 No 38 The Park The Norfolk Mead Hotel The Northgate North House Number 16

G

Galgorm The Gallivant George and Dragon The George Hotel Grantley Hall Gravetye Manor Gregans Castle Hotel The Grove of Narberth Gunton Arms The Gurnard’s Head

77 117 64 140 118 76 93 140 64 39 39 40 40 77

I

The Ickworth

127

K

The Kensington Kesgrave Hall The Kingham Plough

118 94 65 141 53 53 107 41

127 65 95 169 54 141 142 128 54 142

41 66 108 107 129 129 66 95

Thornbury Castle Thorpe Manor The Three Chimneys Trewornan Manor The Trout Inn The Tudor Farmhouse Two Bare Feet Tyddyn Llan

78 78 143 143 42 174

University Arms

160

93 128 106

80 174

44 161 44 97 80 45 81 145 57 130 108

T

109 175 161 45 109 110 175 153

U

P

The Peacock at Rowsley The Pheasant Inn The Pier The Pierhouse The Pig – at Bridge Place The Pig – at Brockenhurst The Pig – at Combe The Pig – at Harlyn Bay The Pig – in the Wall The Pig – near Bath The Pig – on the Beach Plas Bodegroes Plas Dinham Polurrian on the Lizard The Portobello Hotel

56 56 153 144 96 144 97 57

S

N

Oatlands Park Hotel Ockenden Manor Oddfellows Oddfellows on the Park The Old Coastguard The Old Dairy

R

The Rectory at Crudwell Red Lion Freehouse The Riverside Inn Rockliffe Hall The Rookery The Rose & Crown Rosewood The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa The Royal Oak Rutland Retreats

The Scarlet SCHLOSS Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course The Seafood Restaurant The Soho Hotel The Spread Eagle Star Castle Hotel Stoke Park Storrs Hall Summer Lodge The Sun Inn The Swan, Ascott-under-Wychwood

O

H

The Halfway Bridge Hambleton Hall The Hambrough Hare & Hounds Hart’s Hotel Hartwell House Hazlitt’s Headlam Hall Heckfield Place Hell Bay Hotel The Horn of Plenty Hotel Endsleigh Hotel Tresanton Hurley House Hotel

L

Langar Hall Lime Tree Hotel Lime Wood Hotel Linthwaite House Little Barwick House Lucknam Park The Lygon Arms Lympstone Manor Hotel

M

F

The Falcon Feldon Valley The Felin Fach Griffin Feversham Arms Hotel The Fife Arms The Fish Four Seasons Hampshire Fowey Hall Foxhill Manor The Fuzzy Duck

159 94

131

V

The Victoria Inn

131

W

119 79 130 160 79 67 42 43 67 55 55 152 173 43 96

Waterside Inn Whatley Manor The Westbury The Wheatsheaf Inn Woolley Grange

81 110 169 111 111

Y

Ye Olde Bell Yorebridge House

119 145

176 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/HOTEL-GUIDE | 2020/21

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