Country & Town House - A/W Jewellery & Watches 2018 by Country & Town House Magazine

JEWELLERY

&WATCHES AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018

ALL’S FAIR

How Chopard is leading the green revolution

OUT & PROUD The new bold gold

WHAT DO YOU MEAN?

Jewellery’s secret messages

FACE VALUE

Why women like complications

GIRLS RULE OK

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THE QUEENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AWARDS FOR ENTERPRISE

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GOLD TIDINGS Annabel Davidson brings you the latest luxe jewellery news TIME’S A TICKING Up-to-date horological happenings by Simon de Burton SELFISH STONES The ultimate self-purchase DAILY DIAMONDS Wear your bling whenever you please LONG AND DANGLY Chandelier earrings and sautoirs COLOUR CLASH Red and pink rub along nicely A TIMELY LEGACY Watches to hand down the generations SUPER HEROES You’d want these watches on your side CHEAP THRILLS You can get a decent timepiece for under a grand

ON THE COVER Yellow gold double chain bracelet, yellow gold drop earrings, yellow gold ring with diamonds, all Marco Bicego. Yellow gold ‘Roller Seal’ ring decorated with fantastical creatures and yellow gold ‘Agincourt’ ring featuring a briolette cut mandarin garnet, both Elizabeth Gage. Styling by Ursula Lake. Photography by Matthew Shave. Make up by Jamie Rose, using Charlotte Tilbury. Nails by Sophia Stylianou using CHANEL Le Vernis.

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THE AGE OF EXPERIENCE The women leading from the front in the watch and jewellery world GOLD BUSTER If the Eighties was the decade of power, then gold was its weapon. Styling by Ursula Lake A FEMALE FORCE FOR GOOD The jewellery industry is waking up to its ethical responsibilites and it’s women who are leading the way A SNAKE IN THE GRASS Annabel Davidson delves into the deeper meanings of why women choose to wear certain pieces of jewellery TAKE YOUR FANCY It helps to know what to look for when investing in diamonds – new or old, says Francesca Fearon HIS, HERS AND THEIRS The best in gender-neutral jewellery HARD ROCK Being the toughest stone on the block means these watches have no fear NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE Watchmakers know that women want much more than just feminised male models. Rebecca Doulton reports on what lies beneath JEWELLERY BY NUMBERS Figuring out Piaget’s Blazing Sky necklace

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EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

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The Cleopatra Bracelet In rose gold with rose cut diamonds

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Editor’s Letter

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wo events made me feel that, even late in this centenary year of women’s suffrage, we should celebrate the power of women in jewellery – designing it, buying it, loving it. One was the unveiling of the statue of Millicent Fawcett, the first woman honoured in Parliament Square and a great campaigner for women’s votes, if less well known than the more strident Pankhursts. Her role made me think about women rising to the top in our once male-dominated industry, many influential yet behind the scenes. Rachel Garrahan spotlights ten of the best, though one or two self-effacing souls declined to take part – can you imagine a man doing that (p55)? The other was a remark by Nadja Swarovski. Women are ‘naturally more nurturing and inclusive,’ she told me earlier this year, explaining how projects supported by the Swarovski Foundation help women’s empowerment and education, for future sustainability. Caroline Scheufele’s programme to make Chopard entirely ethical in its metal and gem supply marks a major change. It has been a long time coming and is being pushed forward by other women designers, mostly small independents, whom we celebrate in our feature on sustainability (p68). Women’s spending on jewellery and watches is growing, according to research by Euromonitor released at September’s International Jewellery London exhibition. We buy for fun, to mark our

achievements, for sentimental reasons and even for investment. Our stunning cover shoot by Ursula Lake and Matthew Shave has unashamed attitude – bold gold celebrating powerful women in today’s take on 1980s style (p60). Annabel Davidson looks at the poignant symbolism behind jewellery both in the past and today, and the meaning behind why women choose to buy a certain piece (p73). As fashion and jewellery become increasingly genderfree and watches are marketed as unisex, we look at the go-to jewellers designing across the gender board (p81). Investment diamonds really are a girl’s best friend and Francesca Fearon guides us in choosing a prize gem, new or vintage, from fantasy to affordable (p76). High-level watches are also investments and our playful diamond watch shoot neatly links the two (p84). Women now ask more of their timepieces and Rebecca Doulton, who knows more about micro-mechanics than 90 per cent of men, takes us through female-friendly complications and suggests works of great beauty as well as great watchmaking (p93). We all love to shop and we fi nd you the best, from the latest trends – jewels in rich pink and red, shoulder-grazing earrings and navel-skimming sautoirs, or diamonds subtle enough to wear every day – to great value jewellery and watches, and timepieces for rugged adventurers of either gender.

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2018/912 - Country & Town House / Chopard UK - 002HJ - 225 x 298 mm - UK - 24/09/18

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CA CONTRIBUTORS

RACHEL GARRAHAN

A GO OAD

Frida

Kyanite and diamond pendant inspired by the passionate story of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

Cassandra Goad 147 Sloane Street London SW1X 9BZ Tel: 020 7730 2202

What is the ideal piece of jewellery or watch you would pass on to the next generation? I would choose a stonking great 1930s sculptural cuff by Suzanne Belperron to prove that fabulous design never ages. Which top jeweller or watchmaker, past or present, would you collect pieces by? I love Frédéric Boucheron’s question mark necklaces which were way ahead of their time when he first created them in the late 1800s. What jewellery or watch will you wear on Christmas Day? I always wear my fabulous enamelled chevron ring from Alice Cicolini and for extra seasonal pizzazz I’d add Fernando Jorge’s incredible Satellite earrings. Which colour gold is your favourite? Rose gold is the one for me, I love its soft warmth and its flattering look on my pale English skin!

REBECCA DOULTON

What is the ideal piece of jewellery or watch you would pass on to the next generation? My recently acquired vintage Rolex, the $17.8m Paul Newman Cosmograph Daytona. Wishful thinking... Which top jeweller or watchmaker, past or present, would you collect pieces by, and why? Michel Parmigiani of Parmigiani Fleurier. I can’t think of a watchmaker with a better eye for harmonious proportions, sensual lines, craftsmanship and an ability to infuse a very different soul into every collection he designs. What jewellery or watch will you wear on Christmas Day? If I won the lottery, I would definitely be wearing an extravagant high jewellery watch dripping with colourful gemstones and sex appeal by de Grisogono – the Luna emerald and sapphire watch, for example. Which colour gold is your favourite and why? Rose gold for the simple reason that it is the colour that looks best against my skin tone.

cassandragoad.com

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Stunningly Scandinavian

INTRODUCING THE HALO COLLECTION Inspired by the beauty of Scandinavian Light. The Halo collection, designed by Sophie Bille Brahe, has a feeling of natural, uncomplicated luxury.

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CA CONTRIBUTORS

ANNABEL DAVIDSON

A GO OAD

Frida

Aquamarine and diamond earrings inspired by the passionate story of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

Cassandra Goad 147 Sloane Street London SW1X 9BZ Tel: 020 7730 2202

What is the ideal piece of jewellery or watch you would pass on to the next generation? Anything that was passed down to me from generations before. Which top jeweller or watchmaker, past or present, would you collect pieces by? Suzanne Belperron, the great 20th-century jewellery designer whose work was so resolutely modern for its time. What jewellery or watch will you wear on Christmas Day? Undoubtedly my Jessica McCormack Gypset earrings – three in one ear, two in the other. I’ll be on the beach in New Zealand and literally sleep, swim and live in them. Which colour gold is your favourite? I do love rose gold because it’s so feminine.

URSULA LAKE

What is the ideal piece of jewellery or watch you would pass on to the next generation? Cartier’s Tank watch with an alligator strap. Which top jeweller or watchmaker, past or present, would you collect pieces by? This is a bit of a cheat answer as they don’t make the jewellery, but I just love the antique jewellers, Bentley and Skinner. What jewellery or watch will you wear on Christmas Day? I have quite a few ear piercings and so I rather love loading up my ears with diamond studs and rings from Robinson Pelham and i+i jewellery who I think do the best diamond stud ear candy. Which colour gold is your favourite? Yellow gold, it suits my skin tone and I think it just looks more elegant as you get older.

cassandragoad.com

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CO U N T RYA N DTOW N H O U S E .CO.U K

Jewellery & Watches EDITOR Avril Groom EDITOR IN CHIEF Lucy Cleland FASHION DIRECTOR Nicole Smallwood EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR Clementina Jackson ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Maya Monro-Somerville SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Felicity Reid JUNIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Ellie Rix JUNIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Amelia Morley CREATIVE DIRECTION & PRODUCTION Parm Bhamra JUNIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER Samuel Thomas ONLINE EDITOR Rebecca Cox JUNIOR ONLINE WRITER Bella Lewis TECHNICAL MANAGER Hannah Johnson TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Mark Pearson DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL STRATEGY Wil Harris CREDIT CONTROLLER Penny Burles SALES & OFFICE MANAGER Daisy Orr-Ewing ACCOUNTS CONTROLLER Jane Todd FINANCE DIRECTOR Jill Newey PUBLISHER Julia Carrick MANAGING DIRECTOR Jeremy Isaac CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Simon de Burton, Annabel Davidson, Rachel Garrahan, Ursula Lake EDITORIAL editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE JEWELLERY & WATCHES is an annual publication distributed with Country & Town House to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions. com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2018 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Jewellery news

Dinny Hall’s Suffragette Edit pieces use the colours of the movement in the form of amethysts, peridots and pearls

GOLD TIDINGS The latest jewellery news by Annabel Davidson ANOTHER DIMENSION

With a new boutique at Selfridges, its first in the UK, major European watch and jeweller retailer Bucherer has launched a chic new jewellery collection by New York-based designer Yunjo Lee. Inspired by the colourful, geometric works of late American painter Ellsworth Kelly, the B Dimension collection combines fine diamond pavé with hardstones like lapis lazuli and onyx, all worked around a minimalist motif of circles hinged like a butterfly’s wings. bucherer.com

DEEDS, NOT WORDS The indomitable Emmeline Pankhurst said it best, and Dinny Hall is putting the leader of the suffragette movement’s most powerful quote to good use with the re-launch of her ‘Suffragette Edit’ of pieces in the movement’s colours of violet for dignity, green for hope and white for purity via amethysts, peridots and pearls. A percentage of proceeds will go to Women’s Aid. dinnyhall.com

Bucherer B Dimension diamond pavé and lapis lazuli ring

PARTY PIECE

Two hundred and twenty years of heritage is nothing to sniff at, and Boodles is celebrating in style with the creation of a truly exceptional high jewellery ‘Anniversary’ necklace. Incorporating over 93 white Ashoka-cut diamonds (exclusive in Britain to Boodles), the necklace centres on a huge knot of tiny pink diamonds of graduating hue. It’s a genuine masterpiece. boodles.com

A brooch presented by Queen Victoria to one of her train bearers, designed by Prince Albert in the form of a Coburg eagle, engraved on the reverse with the date of their wedding, 10th February 1840.

Boodles celebrates 220 years with its Anniversary necklace

THE OLD AND THE NEW

SWEET LIKE CANDY

Harry Winston may be synonymous with diamonds, but the man who gave the brand its name was, in fact, a lover of all gemstones – even the most vibrantly hued ones. The new Winston Candy collection of vivid cocktail rings is inspired by glorious archival sketches from the 1950s and 60s, and makes use of extraordinary central stones like pink and green tourmalines, mandarin garnets and bright red spinels. Available from 1 November. harrywinston.com

Harry Winston Candy cocktail ring

BACK TO NATURE Insanely talented, independent London jeweller Ming creates one-off pieces to die for, and her Reverence for Nature collection is an abundance of examples. Berries come in clusters of ruby cabochons, coral beads and enamel orbs, while a knuckleduster sports two diamond swallows flitting across the hand. mingjewellery.com

Ming’s Reverence for Nature earrings

First founded in 1865, and established in London for over 100 years, Royal Warrant holders Wartski has now moved into its new premises at 60 St James Street – where the antique jewellery dealers and specialists in original Fabergé will showcase their remarkable wares in a space that includes a velvet-lined private viewing room complete with a secret stash hidden behind sliding mirrors. wartski.com

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THE COSMIC COLLECTION STARGAZER

LONDON

ST MORITZ

ZURICH

NEW YORK

BEVERLY HILLS

MIAMI

TOKYO

OSAKA

ASPREY.COM

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Jewellery news The new Halo collection has been designed by Danish jeweller Sophie Bille Brahe for Danish brand Georg Jensen

DOUBLE DANISH

Take one iconic, heritage Danish brand and add the design prowess of one of the most intuitive contemporary jewellers out there (who also happens to be from Copenhagen), and you’ve got a collaboration to get seriously excited about. The new Halo collection designed by Sophie Bille Brahe for Georg Jensen is an appropriately pared back range of exquisite hoopinspired pieces with just a little diamond sparkle. georgjensen.com

If you haven’t seen the work of Russian master jeweller Ilgiz Fazulzyanov (known as Ilgiz F for obvious reasons), get to Bentley & Skinner on Piccadilly during Russian Art Week in November where some of his artful, intricately enamelled masterpieces will be exhibited. Inspired by original Fabergé and the Art Dragonfly pendant by Nouveau Ilgiz Fazulzyanov period, Ilgiz’s highly collectible works have to be seen to be believed. bentley-skinner.co.uk

MAGIC MIKE

Bulgari’s ’80s-tastic high jewellery collection ‘Wild Pop’ is as irreverently beautiful, witty and colourful as can be, but still one piece stood out as a clear winner for me. The Pop Mics high jewellery necklace of precious diamond pavé-set microphones topped with rubellite, peridot, tourmaline and amethyst heads had me spinning round, round, baby right round. bulgari.com

PETAL POWER Parisian jewellery maison Boucheron may have centuries of history, but they’re nothing but futuristic when it comes to innovation. The Boucheron Alchimiste collection of one-of-akind flower rings are precious metal flowers layered with actual petals via a secret process we’re unlikely to ever comprehend; not that comprehension matters – they’re nothing short of exquisite. boucheron. com

Boucheron’s oneof-a-kind Alchimiste flower ring

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

EDEN BETTER?

ANYONE FOR COCKTAILS?

Enamelled cucumber slices, tiny glass bottles filled with real vodka, citrine drops and tiny gold and silver peeled-banana pendants… The new Hammered and Stone collection from Tessa Packard is, well, bananas – in the best possible way. Inspired by lesser known cocktails, this is a collection to make Carmen Miranda feel dull by comparison. tessapackard.com Tessa Packard earrings from the Hammer and Stone collection

Bulgari’s Pop Mics high jewellery necklace

The latest incarnation of Sotheby’s Diamonds Tree brooch

It has been ten years since Sotheby’s Diamonds first launched the Tree Brooch, a beautifully stylised piece that has come in many guises since, but always with the finest diamonds as its blooms. Trunks have been formed from Whitby jet, yellow jadeite, and pink diamonds, while diamond leaves have been interspersed with opals, Paraiba tourmalines and coloured sapphires. Head to sothebysdiamonds.com to see the latest additions to the range in celebration of its tenth birthday.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Watch News

WATCH THIS SPACE Simon de Burton on what’s happening in the world of horlogerie IN A FLASH

Longines has extended its range of Conquest VHP (for ‘very high precision’) watches with the addition of a new GMT model that offers a so-called ‘flash setting’ function enabling its second time zone indicator to be instantly adjusted using the flash pulses from a smartphone. From £910. longines.com

Graff’s Floral timepieces are exquisite works of art

HARD GRAFF-T

Those diamond geezers at Graff have only been in the watch biz since 2009, but there’s no denying that they create some of the most interesting and beautifully constructed women’s watches on the market. Among the latest is the Graff Floral that features a dial bedecked with hand-painted enamel flowers, three of which gently rotate when the watch is running. Purple, blue, pink or white blooms are available. From £75,000. graff.com

Ralph Lauren has launched his new Western Watch collecition

SUCH A STUD

Bethan Gray has had a designer hand in the new Rado True Thinline

The flash setting function has been added to the Conquest VHP

Award-winning Welsh furniture and textile designer Bethan Gray has partnered with Rado to create her own take on the popular True Thinline model. The ‘Studs’ watch features a 12-segment marquetry dial inspired by Gray’s ‘Masirah’ table, a matt black case and a strap of grained black leather adorned with 19 gold-coloured studs. £1,560. rado.com

ON THE CUFF As it heads towards its centenary next year, Italian jeweller Buccellati has created a new range of watches with cases based around its ‘four arch’ logo and straps inspired by its famous cuff bracelets. The Buccellati’s new Opera watches can be had in Opera watch celebrates its a variety of designs including four arch logo some with fully gem-set dials, bezels and cases on leather-covered bracelets. £11,000-£40,500. buccellati.com

SO FRIVOLOUS

RIDE ’EM, COWBOY All-American national treasure Ralph Lauren has celebrated the 50th anniversary of his eponymous clothing brand by creating an all-new series of watches based on the often misunderstood ‘cowboy look’. The American Western Watch Collection comprises round and cushion-cased wristwatches and a couple of pocket watches. The former feature heavily engraved cases, plain or openworked dials and chunky leather straps that are hand-tooled in the style of a western saddle. From £20,700. ralphlauren.com

The gold and diamonds on the watch face emulate flowing petticoats

Dior has launched four new limited-edition models in its whimsical ‘Grand Bal’ line that are inspired by the couturier’s glamorous ball gowns. The ‘inverse’ oscillating weight that powers the self-winding movement is shown on the front of the watch and set with gold and diamonds in a ‘lace’ pattern that’s designed to emulate the flowing petticoats of society ball-goers (female ones, of course). dior.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Watch News

GO (CON)FIGURE

Frederique Constant has complemented its extensive range of affordable mechanical watches for men with its first automatic model for women. Available as a date version or with a double heartshaped opening that allows the mechanical movement to be seen in action, the watch can be had in a variety of combinations of case material, dial finish and strap colour. For every watch sold, FC will give the equivalent of $50 to donorschoose.org, a charity nominated by brand ambassador, Gwyneth Paltrow. From £1,895. frederiqueconstant.com

YOU’D BE BAUME-Y NOT TO

Baume & Mercier might be one of the entry-level dial names in the extensive stable owned by luxury goods giant Richemont – but that hasn’t stopped it from introducing one of the most innovative mechanical watches of recent years in the form of the brilliant Baumatic. The watch uses an all-new self-winding movement which offers 120 hours of power reserve, chronometer-certified accuracy and magnetic resistance up 1,500 Gauss, while the watch itself has a five-year guarantee. Not bad for £2,290. baume-et-mercier.com

Frederique Constant, for whom Gwyneth Paltrow (left) is an ambassador, has launched an automatic watch specifically for women

A WIND-UP

BLING IT ON

The Baumatic offers a lot of bang for the buck

If bling’s your thing, those usually conservative people at Rolex may have just the watch for you in the form of the fabulous new Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow in Everose gold. Unveiled at the Baselworld show, it was a real bolt from the blue. And the yellow, the green and the purple – in fact all the colours of the rainbow are represented by the carefully graduated stones set into the bezel. There are 56 brilliant cut diamonds embedded into the case, too. £71,000. rolex.com

If you think a decent quality mechanical watch has to cost a fortune, you’ve probably never heard of the Henley-on-Thames based Marloe watch company that designs its watches in the UK and has them made in Asia. One of the latest is the Coniston that features a blue and yellow colour scheme inspired by the late Donald Campbell’s Bluebird K7 water speed record boat. £299. marloewatchcompany.com All the colours of the rainbow are represented by carefully graduated stones

Only 12 examples of each Zebras of Tanzania model will be made

Hermès, the leader in luxurious leather things, has a history with horses that dates right back to its founding as a harness maker in 1837 – but only now has it diversified into the equine subsection occupied by the zebra through a new, limited edition Slim d’Hermès watch. Just 12 examples of the Zebras of Tanzania model will be made, each with a unique dial made from white enamel applied with hand-laid leather inlays in a process claimed to take 26 hours. You’d be ready to knock out a few Zs after that, wouldn’t you? POA. hermes.com

Marloe’s watches are designed in the UK but made in Asia

PHOTOS: REX FEATURES

THEY’VE EARNED THEIR STRIPES

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Shopping

SELFISH STONES Don’t wait for anyone else to buy it for you 1 CAROLINA BUCCI Lucky bracelet, £550. carolinabucci.com 2 AMRAPALI ‘Holi Colour’ earrings, £950. amrapalijewels.com 3 JRS Star ring, £4,800. jsay.com 4 LINKS OF LONDON

Effervescence Extension necklace, £250. linksoflondon.com 5 LOQUET LONDON Diamond locket, £4,800 (chain sold separately). loquetlondon.com 6 EKRIA Earrings, £185. ekria.com 7 CARAT* LONDON Gala necklace, £119. caratlondon.com 8 CALVIN KLEIN Earrings, £109. calvinklein.com 9 LUCAS RARITIES French resin and yellow gold silver flower earrings by JAR (2002), £5,500. lucasrarities.com 10 ANNIE HAAK Salsa stacking bracelet, £350. anniehaakdesigns.co.uk 11 CHALK JEWELLERY Open Arco ring, £220. thechalkhouse.com 12 GIOVANNI RASPINI Rutilated quartz ring, £330. giovanniraspini.com 13 HARRY ROCKS Lightning strikes hoops, £115. harryrocks.com

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M E S S I K A .C O M

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Shopping

DAILY DIAMONDS Don’t save them for special occasions

1 ORTAEA FINE JEWELLERY Mode ring, £4,995. ortaea.com 2 GARRARD Tudor Rose earrings, £4,100. garrard.com 3 ROBINSON PELHAM Chevron earrings, £3,700. robinsonpelham.com 4 MAPPIN & WEBB Empress necklace, £1,000. mappinandwebb.com 5 ADLER Singuliare ring, POA. adler.ch 6 RALIEGH GOSS Signature diamond pendant, £1,100. ralieghgoss.com 7 THEO FENNELL Mouse pendant, £5,250. theofennell.com 8 ASPREY Stargazer bracelet, £4,675. asprey.com 9 MAVIADA Hoop earrings, £2,625. maviada.co.uk 10 TATIANA BERENGUER Abre Alas double wing ring, £1,377. tatianaberenguer.myshopify.com 11 LONDON ROAD JEWELLERY Cross earrings, £475. londonroadjewellery.com 12 DE BEERS

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My First De Beers rose gold five diamond bracelet, £1,425. debeers.com 13 64 FACETS Scallop hoops, $17,500. 64facets.com 14 MESSIKA ‘My Twin’ earrings, £3,240. selfridges.com 15 JESSIE V E Dot Dash necklace, £3,375. jessieve.com 16 ELHAM & ISSA Evolution earrings, £2,100. elhamandissa.com

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LONG AND DANGLY Chandeliers and sautoirs to seduce 1 AVAKIAN Tzarina rose gold and diamond earrings, £3,750. avakian.com 2 YOKO LONDON Australian South Sea pearl and white gold necklace, £15,000. yokolondon.com 3 LOUIS VUITTON Blossom necklace with gold and diamonds, £4,850. uk.louisvuitton.com 4 GARRARD Enchanted Palace pearl tassel earrings, £21,500. garrard.com 5 CHANEL Camelia gold necklace with diamonds, £24,900. chanel.com 6 BENTLEY & SKINNER Multigem and gold earrings, £9,750. bentley-skinner.co.uk 7 CASSANDRA GOAD Tortilla gold necklace, £4,480. cassandragoad.com 8 GRAFF Multi coloured diamond earrings, POA. graffdiamonds.com 9 THEO FENNELL

Daisy Chain necklace with amethyst, pink tourmaline, tanzanite, freshwater pearl and diamonds, £8,000. theofennell.com 10 ARA VARTANIAN Gold, paraiba tourmaline and diamond Mobile earrings, POA. 020 7493 4751 11 MOUSSAIEFF Pink and white diamond and platinum earrings, POA. moussaieff-jewellers.com 12 TESSA PACKARD Swarm necklace in yellow gold, £12,800. tessapackard.com 13 AMRAPALI Gold and silver earrings with diamonds and emeralds, £15,000. amrapalijewels.com

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COLOUR CLASH Who said pink and red don’t go? 1 SHAUN LEANE Aurora ring, £11,600. shaunleane.com 2 SIMON WRIGHT Pink sapphire and diamond barrette, £5,050. sw-jewellery.com 3 NADINE AYSOY Pink gold, jade, diamonds and pink sapphire necklace, £3,840. nadineaysoy.com 4 GARRARD Red Rose necklace, POA. garrard.com 5 DOWER & HALL Cascade ring, approx. £3,000. dowerandhall.com 6 ELIZABETH GAGE

Rubellite, lacquer and gold ring, £9,240. elizabeth-gage.com

7 PIPPA SMALL Gold and spinel necklace, £2,750. pippasmall. com 8 SATTA MATTURI Totem earrings, £19,500. sattamatturi. com 9 KOHINOOR JEWELLERS Ethereal rose gold ring, £8,000. kohinoorjewellers.com 10 CALLEIJA Kamala bracelet, £95,000. calleija.com 11 PIAGET Sunlight Escape Dazzling Glow ring, POA. en.piaget.com 12 BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY Lacrima bracelet, £5,690. uk.bucherer.com 13 CATHERINE BEST Love is Precious pendant, £12,240. catherinebest.com 14 JAMES GANH Love Wave brooch, POA. jamesganh.com 15 CASSANDRA GOAD

Qin and Han earrings, £6,760. cassandragoad.com

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A TIMELY LEGACY Watches to be passed down the generations 1 BACKES & STRAUSS Miss Victoria 18k white or rose gold with

diamonds and mother of pearl dial, POA. backesandstrauss.com

2 PIAGET Colourful Symphony 18k white gold with black opal dial, diamonds and emeralds, POA. piaget.com 3 PANERAI Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Oro Rosso, £13,000. panerai.com 4 DIOR La D de Dior Dentelle pink gold and diamonds, POA. dior.com 5 JAEGERLECOULTRE Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the Morning Light, 18k white gold Reverso, POA. jaeger-lecoultre.com 6 HUBLOT Classic Fusion

titanium pink bracelet with diamonds, £9,200. hublot.com 7 DAVID MORRIS Rose-cut diamond watch, POA. davidmorris.com 8 BOUCHERON Serpent Boheme 18k yellow gold and diamond, £26,900. uk.boucheron.com 9 CHAUMET Ecritures de Chaumet,

inspired by Manet, white gold, diamond, jade, opal and mother of pearl, POA. chaumet.com 10 BOODLES Raindance 18k white gold with diamonds, £20,000. boodles.com 11 CHANEL Prèmiere Rock, £3,600. chanel.com 12 LONGINES Record 18k rose gold with diamonds, £3,280. longines.com 13 BREMONT SOLO-32- AJ, £7,995. bremont.com

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SUPER HEROES For times of derring-do 1 BREMONT MBII, 43mm, £3,795. bremont.com 2 TUDOR Black Bay Burgundy, 41mm, £2,410. tudorwatch.com 3 ALPINA Alpiner X, 45mm, £795. alpinawatches.com 4 PATEK PHILIPPE Pilot watch, 42mm, £36,460. hamiltonandinches.com 5 CORUM WATCHES Admiral Legend, 38mm, £7,950. corum-watches.com 6 RICHARD MILLE RM 25-01 Tourbillon Adventure Sylvester Stallone, 50.85mm, £852,500 (20 pieces only). richardmille.com 7 SEIKO Astron GPS Solar, 46.7mm, £2,300. seiko.co.uk 8 ZENITH Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, 43mm, £6,400. zenith-watches.com 9 BELL & ROSS BR V2-93, 41mm, £2,700. bellross.com 10 BREITLING Emergency in titanium, 44mm, £12,080. breitling.com 11 TAG HEUER Aquaracer, 43mm, £1,700. tagheuer.co.uk 12 ULYSSE NARDIN Diver Deep Dive, 46mm, £10,900. watches-ofswitzerland.co.uk 13 CARL F BUCHERER Patravi Scubatec, 44.6mm, £17,000. carl-f-bucherer.com/en

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CHEAP THRILLS 14

Glorious timepieces all under a grand 1 RAYMOND WEIL Tango Diver, £950. raymond-weil.com 2 FARER Lansdell, £975. farer.com 3 DANIEL WELLINGTON Southampton, $179. danielwellington.com 4 MOVADO Bold, £495. movado.co.uk 5 DUFRANE Bergstrom Premium, $975. dufranewatches.com 6 CITIZEN WATCH Eco-Drive, £229. citizenwatch.com 7 VERSACE Glaze, £990. selfridges.com 8 CERTINA DS PH200M, £565. certina.com 9 GUCCI G-Timeless, £820. gucci.com 10 OPTIK Horizon Solis, £349. optikinstruments.com 11 MAURICE LACROIX Aikon quartz, £580. mauricelacroix.com 12 TISSOT Chemin Des

Tourelles Powermatic 80 Lady, £695. tissotwatches.com 13 FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Slimline Moonphase, £840. frederiqueconstant.com 14 CALVIN KLEIN Swing,

£549. calvinklein.co.uk

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Leadership | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

THE AGE OF EXPERIENCE

Who are the women at the top of the jewellery tree? asks Rachel Garrahan

n the midst of a new age for feminism that includes the MeToo movement and barnstorming women’s marches, more female executives and designers are leading the way in the jewellery and watch industries than ever before. Whether they are trailblazers in business or design, their rise is matched by the growth in luxury spending by female consumers. We take a look at the visionaries who, in no particular order, are set on delivering what these women want and how they want it.

or review. The collection covers many Cartier bases, from Art Deco through the panther and fringe to tutti frutti, but above all it plays to what I believe is Karachi’s greatest strength – her extraordinarily subtle colour sense. ‘I love wonderfully coloured stones but I wanted to look at them in a modern way by linking one subject to another,’ she says. ‘Colour leads on to music, voices and travel – it’s Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier like synaesthesia. I wanted a Cartier’s high jewellery collections reflect different angle on Cartier’s a multitude of inspirations and moods yet house style and this collection over the past 30 years they have had the same celebrates joy and colour.’ steady, modest and highly creative guiding hand. She believes women like this Head of jewellery design Jacqueline Karachi approach. ‘I think that more is one of the longest-established women at women are buying jewellery for the top of the jewellery industry but this themselves, and I know they buy should be no surprise – Cartier has a piece because they respond form in the promotion of women emotionally to it whereas a to senior creative roles. man buys for investment,’ she The flamboyant Jeanne says. She applauds the growing Toussaint, a young lover of Louis ABOVE: Jacqueline Karachi is one of the number of influential women in Cartier, was employed by him jewellery industry’s longest-established leading light. BELOW: Necklace from the Coloratura the industry ‘because it’s easier for to design handbags and was the collection launched in Paris this year us to understand what other women house’s creative director from 1933 want and need – we live in our time until 1970. She was well-known for and understand what they are waiting her figurative designs, especially for. Today we are a global industry, the panther (the house symbol aimed at all women in all cultures, and her nickname) and other who all travel. We don’t design with animals, and her love of the Indiana particular woman in mind but we inspired tutti frutti style – still pillars consider differences – a delicate, blackof Cartier design. In today’s corporate haired Asian woman will suit a different world there is less scope for headlining piece from a tall, blonde Eastern European.’ personalities, but Karachi is the longestThe collection encapsulates beautifully serving of a powerful female trio at Cartier, her team’s ability to pick out the subtly coloured where Carole Forestier-Kasapi has been head glints in a major stone and reflect them in of movement creation since 2005 (the first surrounding gems. ‘The most important thing is woman in such a role at a major brand) and, to evolve, both in my own and the house style,’ she since last year, Marie Laure Cérède has been says. ‘I find it very touching to see how my team evolves creative director of watchmaking. with me. My duty as creative director is to push it all The new high jewellery collection, Coloratura, was forward. It’s our evolving, modern Cartier style that I am launched during Paris haute couture week, a crucial time as most proud of.’ cartier.com (Avril Groom) clients and press flock to give their verdicts in both investment

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High jewellery is celebrated for its excellence in craftsmanship and tradition but Lucia Silvestri, creative director at Bulgari, added unadulterated joy to the definition of haute joaillerie when her latest collection, Wild Pop, was unveiled in Rome this summer. Inspired by the exuberance of the 1980s when Lucia first joined the Roman jeweller to learn about gemstones, the collection references everything from the pop art of Andy Warhol to the TV series Dynasty and is full of Lucia’s bold, colourful designs which have helped make Bulgari one of the leading jewellers in the world. bulgari.com

Lab-created sapphire short drop earrings by Penelope Cruz for Swarovski

Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari

Nadja Swarovski Swarovski

Nadja Swarovski is responsible for reigniting crystal giant Swarovski’s relationship with high fashion and taking it well beyond kitsch figurines. The great-great-granddaughter of Daniel Swarovski who founded the business in 1895, she joined in the mid-1990s and saw an opportunity to make Swarovski a centre of creativity and haute couture. From her early days of teaming up with Alexander McQueen, Atelier Swarovski has grown to support designers including Jason Wu and Mary Katrantzou and to dress everyone from Madonna to Rihanna. It has now added a fine jewellery range using lab-created stones, including a collaboration with Penelope Cruz. swarovski.com

Catherine Rénier, Jaeger LeCoultre

Catherine Rénier’s appointment to become chief executive of the JaegerLeCoultre watch brand in May this year marked another historic moment in the progress of women in Swiss watchmaking. She joins Chabi Nouri of Piaget as one of only two women at the top of Richemont, the powerful Swiss luxury goods giant. Catherine has spent her entire career at the company, developing her experience at brands including Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels. jaeger-lecoultre.com

Elizabeth von der Goltz, Net-a-Porter

Elizabeth von der Goltz’s passion for jewellery is well known among her beloved stable of designers. The NYLon transplant has been global buying director across all categories at luxury e-commerce giant Net-a-Porter for little more than a year but she has wasted no time in amping up the prominence of jewellery and watches. In April she launched an entire new section, the Fine Jewellery and Watch Suite, to great success. With a background in the cut-throat world of Manhattan’s department stores, Elizabeth aims to make Net THE place to be in the ever more important online space. net-a-porter.com

Elsa Peretti Tiffany

Elsa Peretti, one of the most iconic names in jewellery design, changed everything for women in luxury when she joined Tiffany in 1974. Her first collection, Diamonds by the Yard, where diamonds were set in sterling silver, succeeded in elevating the metal to luxury status and provided a new jewellery uniform that could be worn whether a woman was at work or at play. Her bold, sinuous designs, such as the iconic Bone cuff, are as timeless, sexy and popular today as they were when she first conceived them 40 years ago. tiffany.co.uk

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Leadership

Annoushka 18ct gold Seeds charm necklace

Solange AzaguryPartridge

Solange AzaguryPartridge has been adorning London’s IT crowd ever since her friends went wild for the engagement ring she created for herself in 1987. The self-taught designer imbues everything she does – from jewellery and objets d’art to interiors and fragrances – with an exuberant story-telling wit and colour sense that are all her own. Leading the way for independent female designers, her starry past includes serving as Boucheron’s creative director from 2001-2004. Today, her jewels are available at her cult boutiques in London and New York, and the lacquered versions of her iconic Hotlips rings mean all jewellery lovers can enjoy a piece of Solange no matter what their budget. solange.co.uk

Sandrine Stern Patek Philippe

Annoushka Ducas Annoushka

Annoushka Ducas MBE has led the way for female entrepreneurs in luxury for nearly 30 years. She and her husband John Ayton established Links of London in 1989, heralding a new age for well-crafted, affordable gifting. After selling the business in 2006, her next venture was Annoushka, the eponymous fine jewellery brand that embodies wearable luxury with a personal touch and exquisite attention to detail. Whether honouring her Russian heritage or celebrating her love of the English countryside in the newly launched Seeds collection, Annoushka’s creations speak effortlessly to the female consumer. annoushka.com

Dior Tête de Mort ring

Victoire de Castellane Dior

Fashion designers may come and go but few jewellery designers have stayed the course like Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior Jewellery, who is celebrating 20 years at the Maison. She joined in 1998 to apply her experience of designing costume jewellery at Chanel to the world of high jewellery. Her innovative, bold but always feminine designs celebrate the French couturier’s mastery of fabric in hard metal and gemstones, whether it be the lace that adorns her latest high jewellery collection, Dior Dior Dior, or the ribbon or pleating used to trim many a couture gown. dior.com

PHOTOS: SWAROVSKI; FREDERIKE HELWIG; POINT-OF-VIEW

Sandrine Stern is the head of watch creation at Patek Philippe, one of the world’s most prestigious timepiece brands. She joined the company at just 22, having fallen in love with the world of craftsmanship when she was a child watching her father at work as an independent jeweller. Having started out in the commercial team, she eventually migrated to the creative department where she is in charge today. Wife of the brand’s president Thierry Stern, Sandrine is the reason that Patek Philippe is leading the way in developing complicated watches for women who want more than the traditional offering of a men’s watch adorned with a few diamonds and butterflies. These are watches that are as technically astounding as they are aesthetically appealing. patek.com

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Gold brocade strapless dress, Emilio de la Morena 18ct gold ring with black sapphires, 18ct yellow gold and black sapphire, large graphic ring, 9ct gold star ring, 18ct yellow gold stack ring, 18ct gold vermeil, sterling silver, mismatch earrings, all Tessa Packard

GOLD BUSTER Go big or go home Styling URSULA LAKE Photography MATTHEW SHAVE

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Black sequin jacket, Elie Saab ‘Shooting Stars’ pendant, earrings and ring, ‘Ausum Sputnik’ ring and bangle with tourmaline, topaz and citrine, all Asprey

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Leather jacket with peplum detail, Louis Vuitton Juste un clou 18ct yellow gold and diamond earrings, ring, small bracelet with diamonds and bracelets with diamonds, all Cartier

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Gold off the shoulder dress, Poiret Large chain in yellow gold with diamond detail, George Pragnell

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Black satin lapelled tuxedo jacket and trousers, Bella Freud Serpenti Tubogas rose gold and pavé diamond necklace, earrings in rose gold and pavé diamonds, Serpenti ring in rose gold gold, set with rubellite eyes and full pavé diamonds, Serpenti band ring in rose gold, set with rubellite eyes and demi pavé diamonds, Serpenti bracelet in rose gold, set with rubellite eyes and demi pavé diamonds, all Bulgari

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White, one sleeved crepe dress with black piping details, Valentino On her right hand: Dance gold ring, rose gold knot ring, both Niquesa On her left hand (raised up): yellow gold bangle, Niquesa. Yellow gold and yellow sapphire knot ring, William and Son. Yellow gold knot ring, Niquesa

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Gold brocade strapless dress, Emilio De La Morena Double hoop, yellow gold and diamond earrings, yellow gold, three diamond gold ring, yellow gold double hoop bracelet, yellow gold four-stack gold ring set with diamonds, yellow gold open diamond bracelet in gold, yellow gold double hoop wide cuff in gold, all Messika

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White satin trouser suit, Huishan Zhang Long ‘Roulette’ gold and diamond necklace, ‘Jazz’ gold and diamond ring, ‘Waterfall’ gold and diamond ring, ‘Circus’ hoop gold and diamond earrings, ‘Velocity’ gold and diamond bracelet, ‘Jazz’ gold and diamond bangle, ‘Circus’ gold and diamond earrings, ‘Roulette’ gold and diamond bracelet, all Boodles Make-up artist: Jaimee Rose using Charlotte Tilbury Hairstylist: Kim Roy at One Represents using Davines Manicurist: Sophia Stylianou using CHANEL Le Vernis in Gris Obscur and Canotier and CHANEL La Crème Main Model: Ololade Ibrahim at Select Model Management STOCKISTS Asprey: asprey.com Bella Freud: bellafreud.com Boodles: boodles.com Bulgari: bulgari.com Cartier: cartier.co.uk Elie Saab: eliesaab.com Elizabeth Gage: elizabeth-gage.com Emilio de la Morena: emiliodelamorena.com Huishan Zhang: huishanzhang.com Louis Vuitton: louisvuitton.com Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com Messika: messika.com Niquesa: niquesafinejewellery.com Pragnell: pragnell.co.uk Poiret: poiret.com Tessa Packard: tessapackard.com William & Son: williamandson.com Valentino: valentino.com

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A FEMALE FORCE FOR GOOD

ABOVE: Caroline Scheufele (right) is leading the way in fairmined jewellery with Livia Firth, a passionate advocate for ethical standards BELOW: Chopard Green Carpet earrings

Women are at the vanguard of jewellery’s determination to be as ethical as possible. Avril Groom reports

hen Caroline Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, announced at Baselworld last March that from July all the gold used by her family’s high-end jewellery and watch brand would be ethically sourced she instantly became the poster girl for a growing band of brave, compassionate women who are leading the charge to sustainability in jewellery. She has always had brilliant ideas – putting the ‘floating’ diamonds into a diving watch (the phenomenally successful, 25-yearold Happy Sport), or sponsoring the Cannes Film Festival in return for having her jewellery on the red carpet – but she is the first to admit that her best idea was not exactly hers. Alongside her were her brother and co-president Karl Friedrich, who totally

supports the initiative, and super-chic eco-warrior Livia Firth, a passionate fighter for ethical standards in the luxury industry and, through the film world contacts of her actor husband Colin, a friend of Scheufele’s. ‘This seven-year project started at the Oscars when Colin won Best Actor for The King’s Speech and wore one of our LUC watches,’ she says. ‘Livia asked if we would consider ethical materials, and after some thought I felt she was right. We care deeply about the environment and a “clean” industry and we should have started this journey before.’ Ethically mined gold was already available, but getting sufficient, steady

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FROM TOP LEFT: Chopard Green Carpet watch; Chopard Green Carpet necklace; the Chopard team commits to 100 per cent ethical gold at a press conference; African designer Vania Leles; Vanleles Out of Africa rubellite ring

supplies and certifying its use has been a long and complicated road, which is why Scheufele deserves our accolade of Woman of the Year. Firth is also a force to be reckoned with and has fingers in other jewellery pies. Unusually, Chopard has a foundry to process its own gold, which makes guaranteeing traceability easier, except that there are three types of ethical gold which have to be processed separately – they are absorbing the extra cost (up to ten per cent), which is, Scheufele says, ‘our contribution towards making ethical materials the accepted norm’. She believes in her grandfather’s view: ‘that you must control every aspect of the supply and process to get the best quality, and that’s our duty as a luxury business. The hard work for the first two kilograms of ethical gold we produced made that a special moment. Now everyone at Chopard understands and we are even seeing mines asking to join the movement – they see the prosperity that comes from being subsidised to produce sustainably. Miners are paid properly and their children go to school rather than becoming child labour’. She admits that gemstones are more complex. ‘Diamonds at our level are now tightly regulated, and we work closely with Gemfields’

ethical mines in Africa for emeralds and rubies,’ she says, ‘but coloured stones can be a jungle.’ The company extends sustainability to other areas, including buildings – the Geneva HQ already has a green roof and is about to be renovated, and their French vineyard is run on organic and bio-dynamic principles. Scheufele has been helped by Firth and her Eco-Age consultancy, which advises and monitors enterprises on sustainability and ethics. The glitzy Green Carpet Fashion Awards event that Firth founded in Italy is catnip for ethical jewellers and now she is working on a spectacular link with A-listers’ favourite, London-based couturiers Ralph and Russo, whose clients include Middle and Far Eastern ladies with a penchant for gemembroidered wedding and evening gowns. ‘We have been working with Gemfields and their certified emerald mines,’ says Firth. ‘We created a partnership with them and Chopard on an emerald necklace for Cannes where Ralph and Russo are behind many red carpet gowns – the only London couturier at that very elevated, artisan level. They suggested making a dress embroidered with Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds and and we have a star interested in wearing it during the Awards season.’ Gemfields’ mines are predicated on community aid. ‘Many consumers want to know where products and materials come from, so responsible sourcing and transparency are incredibly important,’ says their stones specialist Elena Basaglia. ‘For us that means contributing positively to national economies, taking a lead in modernising the coloured gemstone sector and building sustainable livelihoods for mining communities.’ She believes that women naturally ‘respond positively to sentiment and empathy, and jewellery is a sentimental purchase. Women globally are interested in collections’ stories, to make an emotional connection. When we tell them how the countries we mine in benefit there is often an instant click with the stone or jewellery piece’. There is an exact parallel with the women designing sustainable jewellery. As diverse in their origins as their clientele, they have embraced sustainability through their life experiences. Bespoke designer Vania Leles grew up in Guinea-Bissau and says, ‘As an African I want to get as much material from there as possible but it’s difficult. GuineaBissau borders Sierra Leone so I saw the effects of the corrupt diamond trade and I believe we have a moral duty to work in the correct way. There is such a long pipeline from mine to jewel that the only way to be taken seriously is to go and talk, Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 69

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Sustainability

FROM TOP LEFT: GFG emerald earrings; Pippa Small 18kt yellow gold and labradorite pendant; Pippa Small; Kastur classic emerald and diamond cocktail earrings; Lilian von Trapp ‘Round Ones’ & ‘Sevens’ earrings

to find suppliers I trust and pull back if someone suggests I avoid paying taxes.’ Vania works with Gemfields emeralds and ethically certified rubies from Mozambique but does not yet get fair mined gold direct from Africa. ‘It goes straight to dealers in Dubai or Switzerland,’ she says, ‘so as a small consumer I have to ask all the questions and listen closely to the answers. This industry is big enough to pay workers and communities properly but it’s the small companies which are driving the conversation.’ Also committed to Gemfields ethics is Turkish-Dutch Nilufer Kizilkaya, who uses their emeralds, rubies and amethysts in smaller sizes for her more accessible GFG range. ‘Responsible sourcing, trust and giving back to communities are very important to us and we work with Gemfields because we know their mines and processes are socially responsible,’ she says. Other designers come to it from humanitarianism. London-based, Canadian-born Pippa Small is well known for her work with the Prince of Wales’s Turquoise Mountain charity, training tribal women and refugees as jewellers. She started as an anthropologist, developing an interest in tribal people’s social problems – jewellery was a hobby inspired by her love for gemstones and their talismanic significance. Her bold, handmade style based on beautiful semi-precious gems in yellow gold soon took off and, she says, ‘funded my first project, helping the Bushmen develop their jewellery using beadwork, leather and ostrich shell into styles with wide appeal’. She has worked across the world, from Panama, where a strong goldsmithing tradition was under threat from cheaper, machine-made versions until she introduced a young generation to the benefits of handcraft and the stories behind ancient designs, to Afghanistan where she has created sustainable livelihoods for war widows with no other income and no previous work experience, who now make jewellery and in some cases design it, taking inspiration from the textiles or ceramics of their culture.

In Myanmar – ‘easier because it’s a more femaledominated society’ – Pippa says, ‘handcrafts were under threat and it’s about protecting jobs and giving quality crafts a lifeline’. Her newest project is tough – working with Syrian refugees in Jordan who, she says, ‘have lost everything but have strong design aesthetics. We will have a training programme even for those with no specialist jewellery skills but who can draw on their own cultural traditions, perhaps from a unifying pre-Islamic, pre-political time. The aim is always to create pieces that people will buy because they love them but which help communities, especially with girls’ education in mind.’ Newer on the scene is Rajvi Vora, a thirdgeneration Kenyan of Indian origin who spent eight years working with humanitarian aid agencies before setting up her Kastur jewellery brand. ‘I grew up in a very poor country and have worked with the most vulnerable people so setting up a business that could give back was a necessity for me,’ she says. ‘A woman who can afford to buy a beautiful, heritage-inspired jewel is also helping improve a much less privileged person’s life, and that’s a good exchange.’ Yet another viewpoint comes from German designer Lilian von Trapp, who inherited jewellery from her mother and grandmother. ‘I didn’t like some designs but the materials were good,’ she says. ‘I took out the stones to re-use and then realised I could recycle the gold too. I only use recycled gold, which I get made to the colours I want by a sustainable, chemicalfree process that saves water and energy.’ She has developed a distinct and accessible style – modern, minimalist, slightly geometric yet softened by the gold colours and the occasional vintage diamond, an area she is developing though, she says, ‘it’s complicated to find enough of the right colour and quality, and vintage coloured stones are tricky because they can break when they’re re-cut’. She has visited African gold mines and says she ‘cannot, in all conscience, support material produced in such difficult and environmentally damaging conditions’. Instead she works with a social project in Uganda, helping find alternative employment for communities where gold mines will be worked out within decades. Her peers would all agree, as would – increasingly – the influential millennial consumer. And there is an interesting twist. Vora points out that starting a small, sustainable business was initially seen as a women’s hobby because, she says, ‘you could do it on your own terms and still have an impact, perhaps while also being a homemaker, but now people – including men – see what a serious business it is. More and more are seeing the benefits of being in sustainable social enterprise and how rewarding it is’. When men follow where women lead in this, the whole world can only benefit. ■

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Tumbled Turquoise Collection Series, 18k yellow gold

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Symbolism | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

A SNAKE IN THE GRASS

PHOTOS: REX FEATURES

Annabel Davidson examines when jewellery becomes more than just adornment

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ABOVE: The snake brooch worn by former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright worn when she was dealing with Iraq BELOW: Madeleine Albright chose jewellery to suit the mood of the diplomatic occasion; here she is with Palestian leader Yasser Arafat in 1998

hen former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright met the then Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, she wore a brooch in the form of a bee. In her book Read My Pins; Stories from a Diplomatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewel Box, Albright wrote that she wore that particular pin (as Americans call brooches) to reflect her mood when wrangling with Arafat about the need for compromise in the Middle East. It was just one example of over 200 brooches Madam Secretary used to communicate diplomatic statements to both the press and foreign leaders, which started after Saddam Hussein called her a serpent when she was the US ambassador at the United Nations. She remembered an antique snake pin in her collection, Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 73

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FROM TOP LEFT: Chanel’s new Sous le Signe du Lion fine jewellery line is a symbol of the star sign and the city of Venice; Coco Chanel wore jewellery as symbols; What’s in a crab? Annoushka crab locket could symbolise a star sign or shyness

and bracelet both sport a hunk of translucent rock crystal in homage to baroque Venetian style. Annoushka Ducas, the London fine jewellery brand beloved around the world, has a permanent and ever-expanding collection of symbolic jewels called Mythology for clients to interpret in their own way. A recent addition to the range is a pink sapphire-studded locket showing a crab with a baby crab in its grasp – and a tiny hidden compartment under its shell. For one client, the crab could symbolise their star sign, while for another it might be to indicate shyness, and yet another may see it as a sign of motherhood. A dragonfly pendant in the same range could be a symbol for change and interpreted by the wearer in myriad ways, whether it’s to mark a transformation they’re going through, or to recognise their adaptability to a difficult situation. With more women buying jewellery for themselves, rather than waiting to be given it by

PHOTOS: REX FEATURES

and from then on decided to wear it when dealing with Iraq. Albright’s brilliant sartorial trick is proof that jewellery can be a powerful tool to express not just a love of pretty things, but our thoughts, emotions and even weighty political statements. Jewellery has always had a symbolic element to it, whether it signifies wealth, social status, marriage, religious beliefs or other affiliations. The ancient Egyptians awarded bravery with a pendant in the shape of a fly, which symbolised tenacity and courage, while the ancient Greeks rendered myrtle leaves – sacred to the Goddess of love, Aphrodite – in gold to be worn by royalty and successful athletes. The Victorians – who were mad for symbolism – had entire manuals on how to read meanings in flowers and jewellery, be it a snake for eternal love, pansies for ‘thinking of you’, horseshoes for luck or swallows for home and heart. For Coco Chanel, symbols were a vital part of her everyday life, creating a kind of language she used across much of her work, and still very much a part of the house’s codes today. A new fine jewellery collection, Sous le Signe du Lion (under the sign of the Lion), launching this season is emblematic of both her star sign (Leo) and her favourite city, Venice. The lion has appeared across several of Chanel’s exquisite high jewellery collections, but now it takes on a beautiful, eightpiece fine jewellery range inspired specifically by the lion of Venice. A ring, a pair of earrings and two pendant necklaces pitch yellow gold against the gold-flecked blue of lapis lazuli, in a nod to the famous winged lion sculpture in St Mark’s Square, which parades in front of blue and gold tilework, while a yellow gold lion ring 74 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | Autumn/Winter 2018

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PHOTOS: REX FEATURES

Symbolism | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

FROM TOP LEFT: Annoushka dragonfly pendant from the Mythology collection; Beth Bugdaycay’s jewellery label Foundrae is entirely based on symbols; Cartier’s creative director Jeanne Toussaint symbolised the German occupation of Paris with a bird in a cage, which in further incarnations was then set free when the city was liberated; Cartier precious gemstone gold birdcage pendant on sale at 1stdibs.com

a partner, it’s not surprising that pieces with a personal meaning should be so popular. American fine jewellery brand Foundrae was started by Beth Bugdaycay in 2016, and has gone on to attract a cult following. The brand started off by splitting its designs neatly into five ‘tenets’ – strength, karma, dream, protection, and wholeness – with each tenet having its own symbol. But since then, Bugdaycay has added another four – passion, true love, resilience, and course correction – the latter symbolised by a compass and the letter ‘E’ for East in mirror image, signifying self-reflection. There are also numbers and letters in gold and enamel, some flecked with diamonds, and medallions showing white blossoms against a dark enamel background (blooming even in darkness), all made to be worn in endless combinations thanks to the various clips, links and chains the brand sells. Many fans of the brand are evangelical when it comes to telling people why they chose what pieces, and what their own combination means to them – while others prefer to keep the meaning of what they wear secret. There are as nearly many stories about jewellery and its symbolism as there are wearers of jewellery, but some have stood the test of time. One of the most famous of all appeared in Cartier’s Paris windows in 1940 when the city was occupied by the Nazis. Designed by their fearless creative director Jeanne Toussaint, the caged bird pendant was a small but courageous stand against the occupation. Despite the war, Cartier Paris managed to stay open throughout, with vastly reduced funds and staff. So it was just days after the liberation of Paris that a new version appeared in the store’s windows; the little bird joyfully standing at the open door of its once locked cage. Jewellery may have inherent value in its materials – the price of the gold, gemstones and diamonds it is made of – but sometimes the most valuable property a jewel can have isn’t its monetary worth, but the sentiment it expresses. n Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 75

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FROM TOP LEFT: De Beers 24.70 carat prong set pear pendant; Blue Moon of Josephine sold for $48.4m; two perfect white diamonds over 50 carats sold at Sothebys; De Beers creative solitaire Aella ring

TAKE YOUR FANCY

When it comes to buying diamonds, you need to know your Fs and your Cs, but V for vintage is just as important, says Francesca Fearon

PHOTOS: SOTHEBYS

n the fallout from the Lehman Brothers bankruptcy and the financial markets collapse, everyone expected a correction in diamond prices which had boomed before 2007. It didn’t happen: people flogged the yacht, sold the jet and the house they didn’t need but, says president of De Beers Institute of Diamonds, Andrew Coxon, ‘they kept the house on the hand – the big diamond’. Sparklers are indeed a girl’s best friend, so the house on the hand is of great comfort, even in a financial meltdown. Three to five carat cushion diamonds were popular at the time and Coxon was amused by bankers’ wives at lunch with their rings discreetly twisted around to simply display the band, but when they waved goodbye the

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Diamonds | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

PHOTOS: SOTHEBYS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Calleija Platinum 0.51ct marquise diamond ring with Argyle pink diamonds, £8,750; Boodles Mosaic pink diamond necklace, £60,000; Boodles Pinky ring is accessibly priced at £8,000; Messika Collier diamond braid, POA; 12.34ct Cartier old mine-cut diamond ring, £250,000 at Hancocks

bling sparkled from their palms. Diamond prices ‘did become more realistic,’ notes Christie’s senior international jewellery director David Warren, ‘except the finest quality stones, including D Flawless and coloured diamonds, because of their rarity.’ These attracted new customers and the boom continued. Auctions are the market barometer and the $31.6m sale at Sotheby’s in 2016 of a pear-shaped, fancy vivid pink diamond brought a new era of records. In the same year the 14.62ct Oppenheimer Blue, the largest fancy vivid blue diamond to be auctioned, became the most expensive jewel ever sold making $57.5m at Christie’s Geneva. That is just shy of $4m per carat – alarming when you consider the largest diamond many women will ever wear is one carat and the average purchase is a 0.25 – 0.5ct gem. However, these prices refer to the tiniest percentage of rare coloured diamonds pursued by people with very deep pockets. Many end up in Asian collections – the 12.03ct Blue Moon (now Blue Moon of Josephine) and a pink named the Sweet Josephine sold in 24 hours in 2016 for $77m to a Hong Kong collector who named them after his daughter. ‘These headline stones help the market gain confidence,’ says Patti Wong, chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and founder and chairman of Sotheby’s Diamonds, who sold the Blue Moon, a newly mined stone that she describes as ‘the best in class’. When people realised how rare blue diamonds were prices hit the stratosphere. Last year 90 per cent of white diamonds found buyers at auction at Sotheby’s, with a higher percentage for D-coloured stones. Asian buyers triggered an overheated spike in yellow diamonds from 2009, peaking in 2013 – Chinese collectors had what Coxon describes as ‘a ping moment when they realised that the peerlessly beautiful fancy yellows from Australia were the old imperial colour that only the Empress could wear’. Fancy yellows continue to be in high demand. It is ironic that the nitrogen and boron atoms which create yellow and blue diamonds respectively were once considered impurities and the gems just a curiosity. Now coloured diamonds lead the collectors’ market. Australian jeweller John Calleija has experienced a huge demand for them, especially pinks from the Argyle mine that will close in 2020, putting a premium on prices. He specialises in pink diamonds from Africa and Brazil but especially the Argyle ones, which tend to be small but beautifully coloured. The colour comes from distorted light refraction, but he advocates enhancing

the small pinks with white diamonds, either as a halo around it or with two pinks flanking a larger white diamond. Prices, depending on carat size, range from £20,000 to £41,000. ‘A perfect pink is a big sum of money,’ admits Jody Wainwright, head of gem buying at the family business, Boodles, who travels the world sourcing diamonds, ‘you have to be quite discerning and clever.’ Boodles’ favourite is a bubblegum hue, but even a pink diamond costing £50,000 is still small. A 0.75 carat fancy intense or vivid pink (the strongest and rarest hues) would sell for £120,000 but Boodles also sets smaller, lighter pinks with G quality (never lower) whites bringing the price to an accessible £10,000. Their pinky rings with pink and white diamonds are from £8,000 and the Mosaic pendant with an 0.64ct fancy pink diamond surrounded by pinks and whites is £60,000. For whites a D Flawless is the ultimate status symbol. French jeweller Valérie Messika can source the best stones because her father André is a noted diamantaire. ‘I do not compromise on quality to offer bigger stones,’ she says. ‘In my one-off high jewellery I use the best quality diamonds, usually D-E-F colour and VVS VS quality.’ For repeatable collections (such as Gatsby and Glam’azone) she uses very good quality F-G colour and VS purity for items ranging from £2,000-£15,000. If you want something gorgeous, big and as an investment then De Beers is an education in breadth of choice. Most jewellers concentrate on the four whitest colours but, says Coxon, there are 23 colours before you get to the fancy pinks, blues and yellows. Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 77

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Diamonds

FROM ABOVE: A 9.10ct Asscher cut diamond ring, H colour VVS2 clarity, estimate £120,000-150,000, went under the hammer at Bonhams this September; Cartier Art Deco baguette and circular-cut diamond earrings circa 1935 are estimated at £30,000-40,000, at Christies; Van Cleef & Arpels platinum & diamond Riviere bracelet circa 1920s at Lucas Rarities

The nitrogen content in diamonds from I to Z warms up the colour, which may flatter your skin tone more than the nitrogen-free D Flawless. So, when you buy a diamond for yourself try everything on. You may not ask for a colour lower than J but, says Coxon, ‘whatever budget you have if your skin is suited to warm whites and you like the warm sparkle, with a brilliantly cut diamond you can get double the size for the same budget. So instead of a two-carat ring you get a four carat in a warm white.’ The 4Cs (cut, clarity, carat, colour) GIA grading system for gems was introduced in the 1950s. Before that D to F qualities were known as ‘River diamonds’ and ‘Cape diamonds’ was slang for L, M and N. Given the cost of a D Flawless, Christie’s has noticed that I to M colours are a hot market. ‘An I [colour] can look very good though it’s the bottom of the fine whites, with a bit of a tint,’ says Warren, who also is noticing a growing interest in older cut stones like the 1920s Asscher cut. Guy Burton at Hancocks also notes the popularity of the best Asscher and emerald cuts from the 1930s – he has a 1930s Asscher cut I colour diamond set in a modern ring (£450,000), and a Cartier 12ct K coloured diamond, old mine cut, which may be 1930s or older (£250,000). Buying at auction houses and vintage dealers can be advantageous, although for auctions you need to add the buyer’s premium and VAT to the hammer price. Emily Barber, UK director of jewellery at Bonhams, says antique and period jewellery in the warm white colour range is popular. ‘To some people a lovely, plump old 19th-century, cushionshaped diamond is more attractive than a very modern, precisely cut brilliant. It has a different character and a unique look that resonates.’ The Belle Epoque and later Art Deco eras were hugely popular for diamonds, after the 1888 discovery of diamonds in South Africa. With this influx the Victorians, Burton says, ‘became very experimental with their cuts and didn’t care if their diamonds didn’t match’. These golf ball-sized gems were cut for maximum weight and often items

like tiaras were broken down in the 1960s and ’70s and the stones re-cut for beauty, taking out inclusions that reduced clarity. Combined with the craftsmanship of classic houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron, they are very collectible, as is diamond jewellery from the 1950s, especially the platinum and diamond collars worn with Dior’s New Look. Wong believes signed pieces of jewellery less than a hundred years old are under-valued, opening up opportunities for new collectors. ‘Art Deco and any from the 1950s and ’60s are fantastic. Many of the diamonds are old mine cut so shine in a different way and have a lot of charm and beauty. Modern techniques allow us to cut diamonds to a different level, so lots of brilliancy. Old mine cuts have a character that modern diamonds cannot replicate.’ Another advantage of vintage, points out Sam Loxton of Lucas Rarities, is that you will not go to a dinner party and find someone else wearing the same thing. ‘There is scope for investment, but you have to buy the right thing, the best quality you can afford. It’s like buying a house – antique jewellery might have been restored but then it may have been around for 200 years, so you have to accept it isn’t 100 per cent original. Therefore, buy from someone reputable that you trust.’ For a solid buy, he suggests Edwardian pieces, ‘when platinum was coming into fashion. But the most commercial period is Art Deco and has been for 10 years.’ Burton sums up the attraction. ‘You are getting something unique and romantic that sells itself’. So bearing in mind, he says, ‘that all the world’s most famous jewels are old cut diamonds,’ the idea of a vintage stone becomes very appealing. ■

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WWW.YOKOLONDON.COM FLAGSHIP BOUTIQUE 8 KNIGHTSBRIDGE GREEN, LONDON SW1X 7QL @YOKOLONDONPEARLS AVAILABLE AT SELECTED RETAILERS THROUGHOUT THE UK

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FESTIVE MOOD AND A TIMELESS LOOK. Meet the new Official Swiss Railways Watch Mondaine evo2 evo2 MSE.40111.LG RRP Â£245 www.mondaine.com

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21/09/2018 16:22

Gender neutral | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

HIS, HERS & THEIRS

Avril Groom examines how gender fluidity is influencing the watch and jewellery industry

ender hardly seems like a big issue in watch and jewellery design. Most jewellery is still worn by women and much of it is designed with feminine appeal – nature motifs, Three versions of the Nomos Tangente especially flowers and butterflies, are still Bauhaus the most popular at all levels of the market. Traditionally men restrict their jewellery trendy Berlin (where she is based) but to cufflinks, a watch and maybe a signet built in the more traditional, highly or wedding ring – though not so long ago even these were respected watchmaking community considered dodgy. There has similarly been a sharp divide of Glashütte in Saxony, with fast-held between men’s and women’s watches, in size, design style principles of equality, democracy and and the way they are displayed in retailers. openness. All its models have automatic Not anymore. As in fashion over the past few years, so movements, designed in house, but its now in the worlds of diamonds and day-dates: the phrase prices are very moderate for such high ‘gender fluidity’ has become a big discussion topic. This quality, starting at not much over £1,000. Advertising is partly due to the global market, where not all cultures proudly features the watches but never people so there have the same perception of proportion, and partly is no suggestion of who should wear which design, and to social change, and women designers are pushing many are genuinely non-gendered in style. forward the equality agenda as strongly as men. Just ‘Because of our national history we have a distinct when European women started wearing larger, approach based on democracy, accessibility and sportier watches and sometimes appropriated their quality,’ says Borowski. ‘Nomos is a member of male partners’ timepieces, the luxury watch market the Deutscher Werkbund, founded by industrial exploded in the Far East where, because of their Fashion labels like Valentino are less designers and architects in 1907 to bring high generally slighter build, men presciptive now when quality products to the many with a mix of have long favoured smaller it comes to questions industrial production combined with handmade designs and some are now not of gender detail. It was the forerunner of the Bauhaus averse to a white strap or a movement and we still try to reduce design and diamond bezel. What takes off function to essentials while being aesthetically pleasing in one market soon spreads to and the best quality’. The newest edition of the classic the rest and mid-size watches, Tangente celebrates a century of Bauhaus, with a vintage from 36-39mm, have become a cream dial, a retro coloured outer ring and comes in happy, non-gendered medium three sizes (33, 35 and 38mm) to suit every wrist. with increasing global sales. Models usually start with the movement, built with Judith Borowksi is one of a specific function in mind, and Borowski and her team the most influential women create the watch around it. There is plenty of dialogue – ‘the in the industry as creative Neomatik was designed as a thin movement so they wanted director of independent and slim cases to emphasise this,’ she says. It has understandably highly individual German Judith Borowski is been a female hit, especially the summery champagne watch brand Nomos. A creative director of Nomos, which makes watches that Orion with orange details, but it goes up to 41mm, appealing favourite among cool creatives, appeal equally to either sex to men who like slim elegance on their wrist. The new Tangente its watches are designed in Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 81

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | Gender neutral

Neomatik 41 Update contains a revolutionary new way to show the date, ‘which I needed to focus on,’ she says. ‘The dates are round the outside of the dial so we put in bright red markers that move on at midnight. You can’t miss them.’ Having studied art and design Borowski became a journalist, writing on design, art and politics for the German edition of the FT. She ‘fell in love’ with a Nomos design, went to interview its founder and ended up writing their PR texts, soon graduating to design. I ask her why, as a senior woman in a still maledominated industry, she does not push for more obviously feminine styles. ‘I don’t want to stereotype or restrict anyone,’ she says. ‘Women now look for high-quality mechanical watches just as men do. It’s about finding the right one for your wrist – the person gives a watch its character.’ Some have a bias, like the pastel-coloured, square Petit Four, yet it is derived from – and is the same size as – the classic Tetra, which looks quite masculine. Nomos’s only gold watch, the 43mm Lambda, is superficially masculine yet its refined minimalism would make it a perfect work model for a tall, female CEO. Some retailers perpetuate the bias, says Borowski. ‘It’s difficult if they have different departments for men and women and we say a style can be either,’ she says. ‘It’s still old-fashioned and a boys’ industry though it is changing slowly and I feel our clients are ahead – they have fewer boundaries.’ Nomos still sells 75 per cent to men, though its workforce is over 60 per cent female. ‘There are a lot more women employees now but few at top executive levels even in an unusual company like ours’, she says. ‘The technical side is still mainly men but on design and marketing the majority of our applicants are now women. The process is accelerating’. In jewellery social change drives the non-gendered movement. Less formality in workwear, with merging styles for men and women, gives scope for both sexes to wear casual jewellery and the desire for distinctiveness and individuality in the social media age makes men more adventurous with accessories. Unconventional rings, often bespoke designs bearing stones, especially black diamonds, have flourished with civil partnerships and same-sex marriage, and women who like a bolder style also enjoy them, while stacking friendship bracelets have become gender-free favourites. Jewellery designers like Stephen Webster, Shaun Leane, Tomasz Donocik and Ara Vartanian started with women’s styles but soon found a ready male market – Webster started it all with his rock’n’Hollywood clientele – and women now buy those pieces too. Meanwhile, a growing number of women designers, headed by Hannah Martin and Catherine Zadeh, have made their mark in men’s jewellery and are now extending to women’s by popular request. A-gender is the new jewellery agenda. n

BEST JEWELLERY DESIGNERS FOR GENDER FLUIDITY HANNAH MARTIN Started out with men’s jewellery in a subversive, darkly erotic style with overtones of bondage, but subtle and beautifully crafted. Adds stones, especially white or black diamonds, to wedding ring sets for couples of any gender; ambivalent campaign pictures. Black pearls for her, tiny gold earrings for anyone, beautiful and original bespoke pieces. hannahmartinlondon.com

STEPHEN WEBSTER Godfather of British men’s jewellery design, his pieces like chunky chain bracelets with ‘cigar cutter’ clasps, semi-precious bead or plaited leather bracelets, chain bracelets and single gold and diamond earrings go down very well with the rock chick sorority. stephenwebster.com

TOMASZ DONOCIK One-time assistant to Webster, now his own success story. Spectacular geometric, Art Deco-inspired pieces in coloured stones and diamonds for women, but his Black Star rings and bracelets are gender-free and come in a wide colour range. tomaszdonocik.com

CATHERINE ZADEH New York designer who started with men’s jewellery. Upmarket boho ethnic style features discarded horn from African buffaloes, trimmed with 18k gold for bracelets (each takes three days to make) and leather-strung pendants. zadehny.com

SHAUN LEANE Famous as a collaborator with the late Alexander McQueen, some designs – Rose Thorn stud earrings and rings, the Serpent’s Trace ‘backbone’ pieces, Hook or Sabre rings, bracelets and earrings – are totally nongendered, especially when adorned with black spinels. shaunleane.com

ARA VARTANIAN Brazilian designer known for coloured stones, bold shapes and a collaboration with Kate Moss – he added non-gendered pieces after requests from men. Key pieces feature inverted black diamonds and black diamond pavé ‘shark teeth’ rings. aravartanian.com

JRS Lebanese designer Julien Riad Sahyoun estimates that 70 per cent of his designs are non-gendered. His textured Skin collection mixes coloured golds in different combinations to symbolise diversity. jsay.com

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Jubilee & Station Talis Cuff Collection

S E N E C A J E W E L R Y. C O M

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D R A H Where diamonds donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fear to tread Styling URSULA LAKE Photography MATTHEW SHAVE

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RO C

LEFT: PanthĂ¨re watch, fully paved white gold with diamonds, Cartier RIGHT: Diamond Celestial watch, Graff

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LEFT: Camélia Brodé watch in 18k white gold and diamonds, Chanel RIGHT: Joaillerie 101 Feuille 18kt pink gold watch set with diamonds, Jaeger-LeCoultre

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LEFT: Mini twist watch in white gold and diamonds, Harry Winston RIGHT: Allegra Glow 25 watch in white gold set with white diamonds with white mother-ofpearl dial on purple galuchat strap, de Grisogono

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RM 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman, limited edition of 50 pieces, Richard Mille

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Pearlmaster 39mm in Everose Gold paved with 713 diamonds, Rolex

All nails by Cherrie Snow using CHANEL Le Vernis in Pirate and CHANEL La Creme Main. Hand Model: Amanda at Hired Hands STOCKISTS Cartier: cartier.co.uk Chanel: chanel.com Graff: graffdiamonds.com Jaeger-LeCoultre: jaeger-lecoultre.com Harry Winston: harrywinston.com de Grisogono: degrisogono.com Richard Mille: richardmille.com Rolex: rolex.com

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PROMOTION

LEFT: Wild Rose Pendant, £370 RIGHT: A selection of rings

RIGHT: Light Blue Flower Ring, £390 BELOW: Perlage Necklace, £380

SILVER LININGS

Tuscan designer, Giovanni Raspini

Italian designer Giovanni Raspini launches new collections

iovanni Raspini, an Italian designer famed for his silverware and jewellery, who opened a flagship store on South Molton Street last year, brings authentic Italian craftsmanship to London. Handmade in the rich bucolic hills of Tuscany, close to Arezzo, his homeware and jewellery collections require no translation. They ooze Italian glamour and unrestrained decadence. Each piece takes inspiration from nature and its endless transformations, such as the animated forms and textures of wild creatures in the Animalier Collection. With half a century’s experience behind him, Giovanni Raspini settles for nothing short of perfection, his personal style reflecting that of his work. Collections are sketched, modelled, created and packaged exclusively in house – ‘handmade with care and infinite passion’ – typifying the Italian modus operandi. The team begins by sketching a design, then using an ancient wax casting technique, they model and shape creations using heat before completing the piece by buffing, burnishing silver, or embedding jewellery stones. Evoking femininity, the Wild Rose collection features burnished silver and cabochon cut pink opals in floral

arrangements. For something regal the Queen collection draws upon Anglo-Saxon influences in its crown designs. Then there’s Oxford with its chained necklaces and bracelets with overlapping ovals, natural stones used in Drops and Perlage’s three statement cocktail rings. The five distinct and exquisite collections feature jewellery for every occasion and mood and, throughout, Giovanni Raspini’s contemporary outlook and Italian flair combine to create wearable, alluring pieces. Visit the South Molton Street store for the full Italian job.

ABOVE: Pink Quartz Perlage ring, £330 BELOW: Southern Sea necklace, £620

Giovanni Raspini specialises in jewellery, sculptures and homeware, and has boutiques in Monaco, Rome, Milan, Venice, Florence, Verona, Naples and Brescia. 5 South Molton Street, Mayfair, London W1; 020 7629 1401; giovanniraspini.com

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Complications | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE From skeletons and GMT to tourbillons and moonphases, women desire beautifully complicated watches to seduce both heart and mind, says Rebecca Doulton

uxury watch brands invest a lot of money analysing the market and are zeroing in on a new demographic: women watch buyers and collectors. A generation of sophisticated, savvy women with their own ideas about what they want in a watch is shattering the prevailing opinion that women just want a pretty dial and couldn’t care less about what goes on below deck. Luckily the times they are a-changin’ and more and more

Get complicated with Bulgari’s new Lvcea skeleton

watch brands are paying attention, not just with downsized models of existing men’s watches treated to some diamonds, but with proper mechanical watches designed for women. Step by step, we are being emancipated from superficial watch prejudices and being seduced by the two-fold treat of a beautiful watch with a beautiful mechanical movement to boot. So, move over quartz watches and welcome some beautifully brainy and brawny timepieces into your life. Autumn/Winter 2018 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 93

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IT’S COMPLICATED In the real world we try and avoid complications, but in watchmaking, they are extremely desirable. When talking about them, we are referring exclusively to mechanical (manual or selfwinding watches), not quartz timepieces. In a nutshell, complications are any additional function on a watch that goes beyond the basic indication of the hours and minutes. A complication can range from a simple date window, for example, or a poetic moonphase all the way to a chiming minute repeater or a spectacular flying tourbillon.

THE PULL OF THE MOON If horological complications were assigned a gender, the moonphase would unquestionably be ranked as feminine. Being able to watch the waxing and waning of our celestial neighbour is a poetic reminder of the cyclical nature of time and gives watchmakers a canvas – albeit diminutive – to exercise their artistic and micro-mechanical gifts. Fitted with a mechanical complication that ensures the accurate depiction of the cycles of the Moon for 972 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Moonphase is bewitchingly complex. The scintillating pink gold case glowing with 150 diamonds features a heavenly dial with a mother-of-pearl Moon that transits through a golden sky studded with constellations. If diamonds are not your thing, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne’s Little Lange 1 Moon Phase watch is a fine candidate. Equipped with a highly accurate moonphase that will not need correcting for 122.6 years, the movement is housed in a pink gold case with an exquisite white scalloped guilloché dial and features the brand’s hallmark big date window and off-centred hours and minutes. For a more classic interpretation, the elegant white gold Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 150 Years Edition by IWC captures the spirit of yesteryear and its moonphase will only diverge by one day in 577.5 years. The gorgeous white dial with its lacquered finish reinforces the vintage appeal of this model, and the case is covered with a scintillating mantle of 206 white diamonds – the only quibble is that the micromechanical orchestra is hidden under a solid gold case back.

WHIRLWIND TOURBILLONS Tourbillons put on the most mesmerising show in the watchmaking arena. Twirling gracefully under your eyes, their pirouettes are fascinating and hypnotising. Invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet to counter the negative effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch, the tourbillon (French for whirlwind) houses the balance wheel and the escapement in a rotating carriage. Although for most of their existence tourbillons were hidden inside the case, today they take centre stage on the dial. Chaumet gives a delightfully feminine and floral touch to the tourbillon with its white gold Hortensia Aube Rosée watch with diamonds. Decorated with a Grand Feu enamel dial and a corolla of hand-sculpted white and pink enamel hydrangeas, the tourbillon is held in place with a pretty floral cage. Montblanc’s sophisticated red gold Bohème Exo Tourbillon model marries the subtle glow of a white mother-of-pearl dial to the gyrations of the tourbillon placed at six o’clock. Elegant, classical with a diamond-set bezel, the watch also boasts an ultra-slim silhouette. For a radical and contemporary high jewellery take on the tourbillon, check out Audemars Piguet’s Concept Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon. Literally snowed under with 468 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case, bezel and dial, the white gold case houses an edgy skeletonised dial and the brand’s first flying tourbillon... and we got it before the men did! CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Jaeger-LeCoultre rose gold Rendez Vous Moonphase; Chaumet Hortensia Aube Rosée tourbillon watch; A Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase; Montblanc red gold Bohème Exo; Audemars Piguet Concept Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon; IWC white gold Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 150 Years Edition

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Complications | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

THE LOVELY BONES Skeleton watches are very much in vogue these days revealing every anatomical detail of the micro-mechanics usually hidden to the naked eye. Disclosing this level of detail means that the movement has to seduce the viewer with its high level of finishes and fascinating interplay of elements. Cartier’s wonderfully warped Crash watch plays a glittering game of hide-andseek with its metal negligée of Roman numerals on the dial revealing glimpses of the mechanical movement. Inspired by the remains of a Cartier watch retrieved from a blazing car crash, the unconventional asymmetrical shape of this legendary model has fascinated women since 1967 and being able to see the motor on the front and reverse side of the case will drive skeletonised watch fans into a veritable frenzy. The name of Chanel’s Boy. Friend watch plays on the trend of women borrowing things from their partners, like jeans, a sweater or even a watch. The idea was to create a timepiece with an elegant balance of masculine and feminine traits, very much in the spirit of Mademoiselle Chanel who enjoyed poaching clothes from men’s wardrobes and giving them a feminine twist. This beige gold Boy.Friend Squelette offers a striking and airy view of the movement subtly picked out in black and highlighted with golden bevels on the bridges. Bvlgari’s glamorous LVCEA collection includes this fun skeletonised model (see page 93) that uses the name of the brand as a modern element of design. Combining a rose gold and steel case with the hallmark pink gemstone and diamond in the crown, the slinky steel and gold bracelet might remind you of the sensual bracelet accompanying some of the Serpenti high jewellery models.

GMT GLOBETROTTERS As you have probably deduced, a moonphase, a tourbillon or a skeletonised model will definitely enhance your life aesthetically but are of scant practical value when it comes to dealing with real-life situations. Imagine this scenario: you’re travelling around the Far East and following a monsoon discover that the WiFi signal in the hotel is down. You promised to

call somebody back home but can’t remember if it’s seven hours ahead or behind. This is where the GMT, also known as a dual time watch, steps in, an ideal companion for globetrotting women who want to know the local time and home time at a glance. For the last 178 years, Patek Philippe has rowed against the tide of discrimination and consistently produced exceptional watches for women. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234R combines the look of a retro pilot’s watch with a quintessential Patek Philippe rose gold case and luscious chocolate-brown dial. Destined to appeal to all those Amelia Earharts out there, the home time is indicated by the skeletonised white hour hand while local time is displayed on the main hour and minute hands. Just to make sure you don’t call somebody in the middle of the night, the watch features two apertures telling you whether it is day (white) or night (blue) in either time zone. Ulysse Nardin takes the GMT watch into more glamorous territory with its Classic Lady Dual Time model. Consulting local time, home time and the date on your watch is a breeze: the time at home is displayed in a porthole bubble at nine o’clock, local time is read off the main hands, and the big date window display at two o’clock is large enough to read without having to reach for the spectacles. But what is exceptional about this watch is its unique nail-friendly crown. Unlike conventional crowns that have to be pulled out to different positions, this one features an integrated pusher to spare your nails. This model with a sleek grey dial exudes a smart, cosmopolitan appeal with just the right amount of diamonds on the dial and case. The Tonda Hemispheres timepiece by Parmigiani Fleurier is even more graphic in its representation of two distinct time zones. Unlike most time zone watches, which only let you visualise the hour at home, Parmigiani’s model allows you to set the minutes for home time. This is particularly useful for locations that don’t have standard full-hour differences and need to account for halfhour variations, like New Delhi, Tehran or Adelaide. Whimsical or practical, a complication really can add a whole new dimension to telling the time. ■ CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Cartier Crash skeleton; Patek Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234R; Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hemisphere; Classic Lady Dual Time in steel with diamonds by Ulysse Nardin; Chanel Boy.Friend Squelette

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | The final countdown

WAYS TO WEAR IT... The paraiba drop becomes a pendant

Pink spinels, 7.45 CARATS

JEWELLERY BY NUMBERS Piaget Blazing Sky necklace is inspired by the Northern Lights â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the ultimate blend of gemmological science and design art

Pink marquisecut sapphires, 5.96 CARATS

Months to find stones for the central gem COLORAMA

Blue marquise-cut tourmalines, 4.44 CARATS

Red spinel from Tanzania, 9.38 CARATS

266

Diamonds, marquise and brilliant cut, 9.71 CARATS

Large Mozambique paraiba-type tourmaline, 4.97 CARATS

14 36

Spessartite garnets, 2.24 CARATS

Large Ethiopian opal beads, with rare coloured lights, 175.8 CARATS

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