Q&A
King of Kings
CHEF TORY MCPHAIL ON LOUISIANA SEAFOOD, BOZEMAN, AND PLATING
By Jordan LaHaye Fontenot
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his summer, James Beard Award-winning Chef Tory McPhail— who relocated to Bozeman, Montana in 2020—proved that mastery of Louisiana seafood isn’t something you just shrug off. The former Commander’s Palace executive chef took a break from his work at his Bozeman venture Revelry Plates + Pours in late June to compete in the Fourteenth Annual Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off. Presented by Lieutenant Governor Billy Nungesser and the Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board, this year’s cook-off brought together ten past champions—McPhail won in 2009—to battle for the title of King of Kings. In a magnificently orchestrated showcase of Louisiana’s most distinct and beloved flavors, McPhail claimed his victory with a dish of sheepshead with shrimp and crab, garnished with a shrimp tasso henica made with his mystery ingredient Bulldog Pepper Jelly Roasted Pecan, flambéed fresh sweet crabmeat with summer corn, glazed with whiskey—all atop a Creole sauce. In celebration of his new title, we reached out to McPhail to chat about all things Louisiana seafood, about his new life in Bozeman, and about all he has to look forward to as the official 2021 Louisiana Seafood King of Kings.
First, how does it feel to reign again as the King of Louisiana seafood?
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It’s a thrilling feeling to wear the crown again after going head-to-head with the very best seafood chefs in Louisiana. All of these chefs have been friends for years, so this certainly felt like a bit of a homecoming.
What was it like returning to Louisiana for the event? I had butterflies the whole time on the flight down from Bozeman and was excited to be involved again after winning back in 2009.
Over the course of your career, how has Louisiana seafood played a role in your creative process as a chef? Louisiana has not only shaped my career, but has transformed the scope of my whole life. We all know that Louisiana has such a huge variety of seafood that one might get spoiled having the opportunity to cook so much of it every day. But it’s really the relationships that have been forged with the people in the industry that have made it special and created life long friends in the seafood industry.
What are some of your favorite Louisiana seafood products, and what are your favorite ways to use them? My favorite seafood is the species that happens to be at the peak of season on any particular day. But honestly, I love softshell crabs and how delicious and briny they are when they’re fresh out of the water and delivered to Commander’s Palace alive and kicking, ready for service within minutes of their arrival.
Tell us about your award-winning dish! How did it come together? Have you ever made anything like that before? Our award-winning dish this time was similar to the dish we did originally back in 2009. We did a vertical tasting of the bayou, featuring sheepshead, white shrimp, and blue crab. This time, I made this dish super healthy and clean by making it gluten free and grain free. This was an inspiration by food coach Jen Smiley who lives in New Orleans and started to work with us during the pandemic.
Your mystery ingredient was Bulldog Pepper Jelly Roasted Pecan. Have you ever used that in a dish before? I love pepper jelly and have had the Bulldog brand in my house for years. I chose to make the shrimp component after the signature dish at Commander’s Palace called Shrimp and Tasso Henican. I love that dish, because there is so much flavor packed in each and every bite. 44
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