Country Roads Magazine "Holiday Traditions" December 2024
In the past 30 years we
Engaged over 30,000 visitors
Saved two of our nation’s treasures: the True Friends Benevolent Society Hall and the Rosenwald School
Conducted over 300 hours in genealogy workshops for African American families
Identified numerous burial sites of the formerly enslaved & their descendants
Your Audience by James Fox-Smith
8 NEWS & NOTEWORTHIES
SEARCHING FOR MISTLETOE
Following the Druids into the Chacahoula Swamp by Samantha E. Krieger
THE FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES
Publisher James Fox-Smith
Associate
Publisher
Ashley Fox-Smith
TRACKER Holiday swamp tours, festive feasts & an excuse to parade
Rocket puppies to save the world from gloom, Storycorps comes to NOLA & more A NEW
A beloved, and delicious, American-Italian tradition—and how to bring it to your table by Susan Marquez
31
BROADCASTING FROM THE HEART OF LOUISIANA
For over sixty years, KRVS continues to preserve and transmit the voice of Acadiana by Catherine S. Comeaux
On the Cover
BATON ROUGE TRADITION
Photo by Sean Gasser
From the Louisiana Trail of Lights up through North Louisiana, to the “Cajun Night Before Christmas”-themed swamp tours at McGee’s Landing on the Atchafalaya—Louisiana’s characteristic penchant for tradition emerges especially magical at this time of year. And in Baton Rouge, the folks at LSU AgCenter’s Botanic Gardens at Burden have unveiled a brand new tradition for the Capital City: Louisiana Lights. This captivating installation transforms beautiful Burden Gardens into a glittering world of wonder. Learn more about the vision behind the illuminated landscape on page 22.
Escapes
Managing Editor
Jordan LaHaye Fontenot
Arts & Entertainment
Editor
Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun
Creative Director Kourtney Zimmerman
Contributors:
Kristy Christiansen, Paul Christiansen, Marie Constantin, Jess Cole, Catherine S. Comeaux, Ed Cullen, Sean Gasser, Mimi Greenwood Knight, Charlotte Jones, Jess Kearney, Samantha E. Krieger, Susan Marquez, Lucie Monk Carter, Sophie Nau, Joseph Vidrine
Cover Artist
Sean Gasser
Advertising
SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM
Sales Team
Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons
Operations Coordinator Molly McNeal
President Dorcas Woods Brown
THE HOLY HANG
Keeping fires burning with Open Fire Co. by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot
An enviable tradition by Jess Cole
Congrès Mondial Acadien by Charlotte Jones
WE FOUND CHRISTMAS IN THE OZARKS
A spectacle that has to be seen to be believed by Kristy Christiansen
the ancestral beacon of Acadia by Charlotte
do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, nor do they constitute an endorsement of products or services herein. Country Roads magazine retains the right to refuse any advertisement. Country Roads cannot be responsible for delays in subscription deliveries due to U.S. Post Office handling of third-class mail.
Reflections
FROM THE PUBLISHER
One of the side-effects of emigrating to a new country is a tendency to give anything associated with one’s childhood home more credit than it probably deserves. As evidence I submit my enduring zeal for Vegemite, Australian Rules Football, and maintaining that by failing to pronounce the name of a popular vine-ripened fruit a “tomahhto,” 350 million Americans can, in fact, be wrong.
Consequently, my beloved wife of thirty years, familiar as she is with the various side-effects of marrying foreigners, has reacted with weary acceptance to my recent enthusiasm for an Australian progrock band named King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard, which has emerged from my hometown of Melbourne to take the world, if not by storm, then at least by surprise. As bizarrely unconventional as their name suggests, King Gizzard’s six-man lineup of musical mad scientists makes music that spans a mind-boggling range of genres: from psych and prog rock, to synth-pop, hip-hop, jazz fusion, heavy metal, and on and on. During its fourteen-year history the band has some-
how managed to release twenty-six al bums (five in 2022 alone), while touring constantly, attracting an internationally fanatical base in the process. “Harm less enough,” my wife probably thought about her fifty-something-year-old life partner’s interest in a weird experimental rock band whose music she’ll go to con siderable lengths to avoid. That is until word emerged that King Gizzard would be playing a November date in New Or leans during its latest world tour. “Find someone else to go with,” she pleaded, then watched with increasing resignation as my efforts to recruit any friends will ing to subject themselves to this strange sonic escapade came to naught. Eventually, true to our marriage vow (richer or poorer, in sickness and health, good taste or bad, etc.), she relented and agreed to go with me to the concert.
Initially she was a trooper. As we parked in a badly-lit potholed gravel pit somewhere in back of the New Orleans Convention Center and joined a cheerful gaggle of Gizzheads (for that is how they’re, or we’re, known) streaming towards Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World, it became clear that we’d be the oldest people there by a generation or two. As we passed through the metal detectors and approached the entrance, my gentle wife, who likes gardening, regarded a group of Gizzheads wearing lizard cos-
over us. And as my former countrymen took the stage and launched into their opening set with a track from their tongue-in-cheek but definitely heavy metal album (named Petro Dragonic Apocalypse, in case you’re interested), she looked at me as if I were a stranger. After four or five songs she’d heard enough and made for the doors, preferring to spend the rest of the night out by the river, looking at the moon.
So, imagine our surprise when, while making our way through the crowd, we were hailed by a fellow concertgoer who, presumably recognizing me from the photo on this page, proclaimed her love of Country Roads. Hallelujah, we were among our people after all.
When I set out to write this column the day before the concert, I had a different idea in mind. The first version emerged as a rather predictable rumination on the joys and challenges of 2024 as this eventful year draws to a close. But as the word limit approached and I ran out of examples of things to be thankful for, what I’d written seemed neither illuminating nor particularly entertaining. I left for New Orleans with a vague plan to get up early the next morning and try again. Well, sometimes inspiration appears in the unlikeliest places. Sometimes it’s wearing a lizard costume.
One of the best things about making Country Roads has always been meeting the people who read it. That, and the opportunity it provides to dip a toe into other subcultures—to try and understand what’s special about them, and to share that with a community of open-minded readers who’re curious to know better this diverse, endlessly interesting place we call home. So, if you’re reading this, fellow Gizzhead, this one’s for you. Thanks for making my day, and at the end of a difficult year, reminding my wife and I why, after thirty years, publishing this magazine remains the pleasure and the privilege of our lives.
You’re free to live your life out loud! Because you’ve got the compassion of the cross, the security of the shield, and the comfort of Blue behind you.
NEWS, TIMELY TIDBITS, AND ASSORTED CURIOSITIES •
“If You Have Breath in Your Body, You Have a Story.”
STORYCORPS SETS UP SHOP IN AT THE NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART
Aplace rich in culture, distinct in some way from the homogeneity of American society, where the weather will be manageable, where community partnerships are strong. And this year, a place that might be rich in stories of Black life, in all its complexities, triumph, and resilience.
These were some of the qualifications that made New Orleans a great candidate for this year’s StoryCorps Mobile Tour. The oral history collecting organization has been recording conversations and interviews with individuals across America since 2003—preserving the stories in the Library of Congress and broadcasting many of them weekly on NPR.
Until December 13, StoryCorps’ Airstream-turned-traveling recording studio, called the MobileBooth, will be set outside the New Orleans Museum of Art’s Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden. Members of the community are invited to sign up for recording sessions, guided by trained StoryCorps facilitators, in which they can tell and preserve personal stories of their lives here in the New Orleans region.
“We want stories that are very reflective of the community,” said Latoija Dawkins, Associate Director of StoryCorps’ Mobile Tour. “Here in New Orleans, we already know the culture is rich in music, food, all this, so we know we’re going to get those types of wonderful stories.” But
Dawkins and her team are also hopeful to gather stories for the organization’s new “Brightness in Black” initiative, which celebrates the spectrum of the Black experience across America, focusing on the brightness—triumphs, gratitude, aspirations, and resilience—that are embodied in Black life.
“New Orleans is one of the most resilient cities I have ever seen,” said Dawkins. “That’s part of why we really wanted to come here, so people can hear about this resiliency not only of the city as a whole, but from the individuals within it.”
Per tradition, StoryCorps facilitates its Mobile Tour in partnership with local public radio stations, who are, according to Dawkins, “the information hub, the heartbeat of the city.”
The New Orleans stop is hosted by WWNO, coming right on the heels of a Baton Rouge stop hosted by WRKF. Paul Maassen, the general manager of both stations, is excited not only about the prospect of stories from both cities reaching a national audience on NPR, but also about the opportunity to collect these stories to share on a local level over the course of the next year.
“I think first-person accounts and oral histories, especially coming from the per-
New Leadership for a New Year
MEET
As we are poised to ring in a new year with all the resolutions and new beginnings that come with it, we review some exciting changes at notable Louisiana institutions shaking up their leadership roles over the past few months.
Bayou Teche Museum
Ana Moreno-Bellomy was announced on November 1 as the new executive director of the Bayou Teche Museum in New Iberia. She replaces Marcia Patout, who led the museum for the past eleven years. Moreno-Bellomy, with experience in business administration and marketing, will focus on encouraging collaboration and inclusivity at the museum. She will be the point person for daily functions, alongside planning for the annual gala. Already a member of the museum team prior to her appointment, Moreno-Bellomy should, the board believes, shift seamlessly into a leadership position.
“We are thrilled to welcome Ana to
this new role in our museum,” said Larry Hensgens, Bayou Teche Museum Board President, “we are confident that her skills will be an asset to the museum we are confident that together, we will achieve remarkable milestones and create new opportunities for the museum.”
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and Foundation
In late October the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and Foundation (NOJHFF, for the uninitiated) announced Blake-Anthony Johnson would take the helm as the new Chief Executive Officer. To this new role, Johnson brings experiences as the president and CEO of the Chicago Sinfonietta and co-chair of the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs, among other successes.
“New Orleans holds personal significance for me through my family’s roots, and I am honored to serve an organization that uplifts both the legacy and future of this powerful art form, and the
vibrant communities connected to it,” Johnson said. “This is a place where creativity and culture drive both daily life and economic opportunity.”
The River Road African American Museum
Not quite a new appointment, but one worth mentioning, is the announcement last November of L'Oréal Monique Evans as director of the River Road African American Museum. A fixture in the downtown historic district of Donaldsonville, the Main Museum located in the Brazier-Watkins House celebrates the history and contributions of Africans, both American and globally. The museum also preserves the legacies of the Dr. Lowery Medical Office, a Rosenwald School, True Friends Benevolent Association Hall, and the Episcopal Church of the Ascension.
Evans, who brings to the role more than twenty years of experience in the fields of arts and culture, as well as aca-
son who experienced them, are very powerful, and engaging, too,” said Maassen. “StoryCorps is one of the most popular things you hear on NPR, and for us to be able to do a more involved localized version of that, to express our connection to the community, it’s what we’re all about.”
One thread Maassen and the facilitators at StoryCorps are eager to explore in New Orleans is that of Hurricane Katrina and its upcoming twentieth anniversary next year. In capturing stories and recollections from the event, as well as reflections on how it has influenced individual lives over the last twenty years, they hope to create a powerful document to be shared next year as the world remembers the impact of the storm.
But it also doesn’t have to be that deep, assures Maassen and Dawkins. They want everyone across the New Orleans community, with every kind of story, to come and make a record of it. “I believe if you have breath in your body, you have a story,” said Dawkins. “People are drawn to the power of testimony. Don’t ever second guess how you can connect to another person through your story, whatever it may be.”
Register for forty minute recording sessions at storycorps.org/wwno.
—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot
demia, has served in a range of positions in New Orleans and other cities across the country. Her work as everything from a teacher and visual artist, to event manager and producer, has granted her a unique perspective as she dons the mantle of the museum’s greatest advocate.
"As we endure political, economic, and climatic instability, America and our global society are experiencing unprecedented times within this millennium. As stewards of the earth, it is my goal as the new Executive Director of the River Road African American Museum to preserve, promote, and support what remains of rural river parish life through educational, artistic, social, and community development,” Evans said. “By contributing to the development of a cultural economy within the rural river parishes, we hope to provide an inclusive and diverse experience for the community and tourists, allowing for a more equitable distribution of resources to its residents.”
—Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun
In a World of Mopey Smoke, There Can Still Be Rocket Puppies
WILLIAM JOYCE’S NEW CHILDREN’S BOOK OFFERS A HIGH OCTANE DOSE OF SUBVERSIVE, GLOOM-BANISHING JOY
Four years ago, the Emmy and Academy-winning Shreveport author and illustrator William Joyce (best known for The Fantastic Flying Books of Mr. Morris Lessmore, The Guardians of Childhood series, and the Disney television show, Rolie Polie Olie) was feeling glum. It was the peak of the pandemic, human connection was at an alltime low, and he couldn’t shake the generalized gloominess of a world that felt at odds with itself.
A master of imagination, Joyce escaped into a world of whimsy of his own making—sillier and more absurd than any of the children’s books or programs he’s written before. Naming the result still makes him giggle, even after all this time: Rocket Puppies, Joyce’s 53rd children’s book, was released by Simon & Schuster on November 5 into a world that is still suffering from environmental anxiety, international wars, and political unrest.
The evocative title came to Joyce first; in fact it’s all he had when he pitched the concept to his editor. “What happens?” she asked him. “I don’t know, but they make people happy,” he responded. Her advice was to, perhaps, start with the villain.
“I came up with this guy named Snarly McBummerpants, and I drew him, and he is the sourest looking dude you ever saw,” said Joyce. The character is a human spider-like figure with burning red eyes, “Mean Ray Vision,” and mopey smoke that puts everyone in the world in a bad mood.
So, the rocket puppies—wearing jetpacks (powered by the green energy provided by hugs)—are the only ones who can vanquish this global gloom. Joyce needed them to have a super power. “I thought about how, even if you don’t like dogs, you see puppies for sale, and even the biggest grump can’t resist,” he said. “And if that puppy looks up into your face, you know you’re done. There’s a percentage of people in that moment who will completely alter their lives and give into that dog looking at them.”
Thus, “Puppy Ray Vision.” “It is a formidable power,” said Joyce.
By the time the Rocket Puppies and their puppy ray vision are done with Snarly McBummerpants, his volcano of woe starts streaming glitter rainbows and “everything buoyant and beautiful and happy and shiny and color-filled and bright.” Bees stop stinging, miserly people share the last piece of pizza, bullies become florists, and even the concrete is happy. The utopia of the post-McBummerpants Earth created by Joyce is rendered using a colored pencil illustration style totally new to him. “I’ve used paint, watercolors, gouache, pen-and-ink, computers, but never colored pencils,” he said, describing the way he hoped to create the picket fence-better-than-real effect of Zerna Sharp’s early twentieth century Dick and Jane books. Though those illustrations were done in watercolor, the effect of the primitive 1930s and ‘40s printing press gave them a grainy effect that “felt a little removed and unreal”—and that Joyce hoped to imitate. “And I found doing it in colored pencil kind of recreated that spectacular otherworldly technicolor quality those books had.”
Writing and illustrating this project, which is the first children’s book Joyce has published in eight years, brought him an absurd sort of childish joy that he describes as subversive. In a world filled with uncertainty and fear, the imagination still allows for the creation of something as ridiculous as rocket puppies. And such silliness can still make people laugh. “The book is really meant to cheer up the parents who are reading this to their kids in a world that can sometimes be dark,” said Joyce, “just as much as it is about cheering up the kids.”
An animated film version of Rocket Puppies is coming to YouTube sometime in 2025, followed next fall by the release of the sequel Glitter Kittens. Find the book at simonandschuster.com.
—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot
Illustration from the book Rocket Puppies, courtesy of William Joyce.
Celebrate the holiday season Louisiana-style— featuring boat parades, bayou-forward Nutcracker ballets, and breathtaking illumination up and down the Mississippi . . .
Find our regular listings of non-holidayadjacent events starting on page 23.
Holiday Events
In Greater Baton Rouge
December 1–21: Livingston Holiday Marketplace : With the change of the seasons comes more opportunities to grab gifts for your friends and family, including the Arts Council of Livingston Parish's annual Holiday Marketplace. With many different art works in various mediums, there is sure to be a wide range of possible gifts for everyone. 10 am–noon Wednesday–Friday, 10 am–2 pm Saturday. Free. artslivingston.org.
December 1–30: Zoo Lights: Generations of Capital City families have built a holiday tradition around a visit to BREC's Baton Rouge Zoo to see Zoo Lights—featuring scores of illuminated, larger-than-life displays of flamingos, giraffes, lions, tigers, gorillas, and more; and festive family activities that light up the night all month long. 5:30 pm–8 pm nightly. $5 adults; $4 seniors; $3 ages two through twelve; free for one and under. Closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. brzoo.org.
December 1, 6-8: Christmasville Spectacular: A curated experience of all things Christmas, designed for fanatics especially craving those warm fuzzy feelings of the holidays. Start indoors for the Denham Springs First Baptist Church's presentation of "The Lighting of
Christmasville," featuring performances and more. It's an experience designed to foster lifelong holiday memories for the entire family. Lighting at 5 pm–6 pm December 1. Free. firstdenham.com.
December 5: Holiday Brass: The Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra presents a holiday concert featuring its full brass and percussion sections conducted by David Torns at St. Joseph Cathedral. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $30. brso.org.
December 5: Christmas Bayou with BeauSoleil avec Michael Doucet : The Manship Theatre will host Cajun powerhouse sextet Beausoleil with Michael Doucet in a concert guaranteed to get anyone dancing. The group's singular sound is an amalgam New Orleans jazz, blues rock, folk, swamp pop, Zydeco, country, and bluegrass, and is responsible for bringing the traditional Cajun French tradition into the modern world. 7:30 pm. $45–$65. manshiptheatre.org.
December 6: LSU Museum of Art Store
Holiday Shopping : For the twenty-first year, the LSU MOA invites all to shop unique holiday gifts, local artwork, and more with a special deal of twenty percent off any one item (excluding George Rodrigue merchandise), plus free gift wrap and raffle prizes. 4 pm–8 pm. lsumoa.org.
December 6: Festival of Lights: Head downtown Baton Rouge for the lighting
of the grand twenty-five-foot tree and fireworks, free ice skating, local vendors for last-minute shopping needs, and Santa himself. Free. 4 pm–8 pm. downtownbatonrouge.org.
December 6: Outdoor Christmas Movie at the Livingston Parish Library: Grab a lawn chair, blanket, a some festive cheer to watch Miracle on 34th Street under the stars at the Main Library in Livingston. mylpl.info.
December 6–8, 12–15: Theatre Baton Rouge Presents: "A Christmas Carol": Some classics are timeless for a reason, and this Dickens Christmas tradition is one of them. The same characters we know and love return to the stage: miserly Ebenezer Scrooge, and all those Christmas ghosts among them. Performances at 7:30 pm, 2 pm Sundays. $38–$43. theatrebr.org.
December 7: Broadmoor Christmas Parade
A beloved tradition in Baton Rouge's Broadmoor neighborhood, this parade features local school groups, antique cars, nonprofit organizations, and Santa Claus himself. Kicks off at noon, starting from the Broadmoor High School. 11 am. broadmoor-br.org.
December 7: Christmas Stroll Along the Avenue : The city of Donaldsonville will host its annual Christmas Tree Lighting celebration at Crescent Park to kick off the season's festivities, featuring food vendors, music, local businesses, and
Each year, Morgan City erects a shrimp boat in town during the holiday season, with Santa perched atop his Louisiana-style "sleigh" pulled by alligators instead of reindeer. Photo courtesy of Cajun Coast Tourism.
Holiday Events
In Greater Baton Rouge, Central Louisiana & North Louisiana
more along Railroad Avenue. Free. 6 pm–10 pm. donaldsonville-la.gov.
December 8: Baton Rouge Concert Band
Christmas: The Baton Rouge Concert Band has been busy practicing favorite Christmas songs, with plans to perform at St. Joseph Cathedral in Baton Rouge. The program for the concert will cover classic Christmas carols alongside less-familiar holiday selections that are sure to put you in a seasonal mood. 3 pm. Free. brcb.org.
December 8: A Rural Life Christmas: One of the capital city's best-loved holiday traditions, LSU's Rural Life Museum's old-fashioned Louisiana Christmas celebration conjures up a century and a half of reminiscences on the grounds of the acclaimed museum. Candle-lit historic buildings decorated with freshly cut greenery serve as an atmospheric backdrop for costumed re-enactors recreating the Christmas festivities of the nineteenth century. 10 am–5:30 pm. $15; children three and younger free. lsu.edu/rurallife.
December 12: A Very Soulful Christmas with Morgan James: Experience a holiday
performance filled with gospel, soul, and festive tunes at this special performance with vocalist Morgan James at the Manship Theatre. 7:30 pm. $35–$55. manshiptheatre.org.
December 13: George Bell and Friends: An Evening of Holiday Jazz : George Bell returns to the Manship for his muchanticipated holiday concert. Don't miss this twelfth annual Holiday Jazz performance, featuring Herman Jackson, Harry Anderson, Andy Bourgeois, Ray Mouton, Greg Ward, and Hilda Trenise Gautier, and Quiana Lynell—plus a few other surprises. 7:30 pm. $50. manshiptheatre.org.
December 13: Movies on the Plaza: Holiday Edition: December's Movies on the Plaza at the Baton Rouge Main Library is a holiday celebration. Pack your lawn chair or blanket to view a 2004 classic about a train headed for the North Pole on Christmas Eve. Hot chocolate and other treats will be available. 7 pm. Free. ebrpl.com.
December 13–15: Gonzales Holiday Market : A one-stop shopping expo
designed to bring holiday gift-givers with vendors offering the most special of under-the-tree treats. At the Lamar Dixon Expo Center, starting at 10 am each day. $10/day or $25 for three day access. attexpomarket.com.
December 13–15: Livingston's Tri–Parish Ballet: "The Nutcracker": Livingston's local Tri–Parish Ballet again presents The Nutcracker, enchanting audiences with dancing dolls, toy soldiers, waltzing flowers, and a number of new surprises for returning audiences. Performances will be held at the Price LeBlanc PACE Center in Gonzales, times to be announced at odysseyacademyofdance.com.
December 14: Christmas in Central Parade : Don't miss this festive celebration down Joor Road in the charming community of Central. 11 am. members.cityofcentralchamber.com.
December 14: Denham Springs Christmas Parade : Use the holidays as the perfect excuse to prepare for Mardi Gras, and head to Denham Springs for this special local tradition. Parade rolls at 2 pm. business.livingstonparishchamber.org.
December 14: Let It Sneaux : Santa is coming to BREC's Perkins Road Community Park, and he is bringing all the goodies with him. S'mores, hot chocolate, sneaux, and much more. 1 pm–5 pm. Free. brec.org.
December 14: Reindog Run: BREC is hosting its annual Reindog Run, inviting Christmas pups of all shapes and sizes to compete for the title of Champion Reindog. 8 am–noon at the Comite River Conservation Area. $35. brec.org.
December 14–15: "Nutcracker: A Tale from the Bayou": The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy melody is intertwined with the holiday season. And in this part of the world, so is the long-running Baton Rouge Ballet Theatre production of The Nutcracker. Each year for generations, local and national dancers of all ages have flitted and fluttered across the stage of the River Center, breathing hyper-local life into Tchaikovsky's masterpiece to the tune of Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra accompaniment and a stage set that invokes Baton Rouge landmarks. Come for the childlike magic of a Christmas classic. 2 pm and 6 pm each day at the River Center Theatre for Performing Arts. $35–$90. batonrougeballet.org.
December 15: Creole Christmas at Magnolia Mound: Historic Magnolia Mound is decked out in its Christmas finery as local schoolchildren gather to sing traditional songs in French and Spanish. Period demonstrations, folk crafts, and a bonfire also help to welcome Papa Noël. Explore booths from artisans and craftspeople offering handmade items for sale. Noon–5 pm. Free. brec.org.
December 18–23: A Dulcimer and Drums Holiday Concert : Madam Dulcimer and Lady Chops are joining forces for an unforgettable holiday kids concert at various East Baton Rouge Parish libraries. Find the schedule at ebrpl.com.
December 20–21: Opéra Louisiane: "Becoming Santa Claus": Celebrate the holiday season with this delightful and unconventional tale at the Manship Theatre. Becoming Santa Claus, presented by Opéra Louisiane, follows 13-yearold Prince Claus attempting to outdo the Three Kings. 7:30 pm Friday; 5 pm Saturday. Tickets start at $26. operalouisiane.com.
December 21: Holiday Market at the Red Stick Farmers Marke t: Head to the Red Stick Farmer's market for a special guest appearance from the big guy himself. 8 am–noon. breada.org.
HOLIDAYS IN CENTRAL AND NORTH LOUISIANA
December 1–23: "Believe! Lights the Night" at the Aquarium: The Shreveport Aquarium gets a holiday makeover for this magical, interactive Christmas journey. $30. 5 pm–9 pm. shreveportaquarium.com.
December 1–30: Candy Cane Lane : The Hanson family in Monroe invites all to drive through the wonderland of over one million Christmas lights installed on their fifty-two acres of private property— an immersive drive-thru Christmas experience designed to instill all of the excitement of childhood. 6 pm–10 pm. $25 per vehicle; $50 per commercial vehicle (church van, fifteen-passenger can, etc). candycanelane.net.
December 1–31: Freedom Trees at the Chennault Aviation & Military Museum: The Chennault Aviation & Military Museum honors the veterans and those currently serving in the U.S. military during this holiday season with a stunning tribute of its Freedom Trees. See them alight all through New Year's Eve. Free. chennaultmuseum.org.
December 1–31: Land of Lights: The perfect excuse for an evening stroll— soak up the magic of the light displays throughout Downtown Monroe and West Monroe, which are illuminated at 5:30 pm each night. holidaytrailoflights.com.
December 1–January 6: Natchitoches Christmas Festival: The famous Christmas festivities in Natchitoches mean the holiday spirit is in full swing here beginning November 23, when over 300,000 holiday lights flicker on every evening for several weeks straight. Saturdays bring vendors, live music, fireworks, and kids activities to the Riverbank area. $15. natchitocheschristmas.com.
December 1–January 5: Logansport
Christmas Festival: The village of Logansport will come together at the start of the season to light up the town, transforming it into a glittery winter wonderland. Opening night festivities will include a carnival, local vendors, a holiday train, a parade, and fireworks—and more special events to take place throughout the season. discoverdesoto.com.
December 1–23: Christmas in Roseland: The American Rose Center in Shreveport transforms into a whimsical winter wonderland with twinkling lights, giant Christmas cards, and other holiday displays. Each Friday, Saturday, and Sunday night from 5:30 pm–10 pm, Santa will be sitting pretty in the Garden for photographs. The vendor market will be on the weekend of December 13–15, and on the last night of the festivities—December 23—a fireworks show will commence. 5:30 pm–10 pm. $10 per person; $30 family four pack. rose.org/christmas-in-roseland.
December 1– 25: Christmas at Kiroli: This holiday season, Kiroli's winding roads will be transformed into a twinkling wonderland. Drive through the displays for miles throughout the holiday season. 6 pm–9 pm. $20 per vehicle for a season pass. christmasatkiroli.com.
December 1–February 23: Sno-Port at the Sci-Port Discovery Center : Throughout the holiday season, visitors to the Sci-Port Discovery Center in Shreveport will get the opportunity to immerse themselves in an interactive science "playground," created by local artists to foster a snowy, science-focused, experience. Expect a sock skating rink, a "freeze frame" photo backdrop, and winter virtual reality experiences. $8. sci-port.org/snoport.
December 5–7: Biedenharn Christmas Open House : For more than thirty-five years, this Monroe tradition at the festively decorated Biedenharn home has enchanted area residents and visitors alike. Live music, photo ops with Santa, a Christmas Train, and more festive fa-lalas. 5 pm–8 pm. bmuseum.org.
December 5–7: Alex Winter Fête : The holiday family festival returns to Alexandria with a slate of exciting cozy activities for all. 5 pm–9 pm Thursday, 4 pm–10 pm Friday, 10 am–10 pm Saturday. Free. alexwinterfete.com.
December 5–7, 12–14: Lincoln Light Up the Pines: Ruston's only drive-thru Christmas lights display comes from a collaboration with Lincoln Parish Park, the Chamber of Commerce, the CVB, and a local camping group. Drive through the campgrounds, where vintage campers will be elaborately decorated for the season. $10–$20. Details at rustonlincoln.com.
Holiday Events
In
Central
Louisiana,
North Louisiana & New Orleans
December 5–8: "White Christmas" at Ruston Community Theatre: Watch a performance of Irving Berlin's classic, White Christmas, at Dixie Center for the Arts in Ruston following two WWII veterans taking their song-and-dance routine on the road. 7 pm; 2 pm Sunday. $20; $10 for students. rctruston.org.
December 7: Grand Cane Christmas Parade & Holiday Market : Head downtown in the little village of Grand Cane for a happy holiday parade, plus plenty of local artisans to grab your gifts from. 9 am–3 pm. Parade rolls at 11 am. discoverdesoto.com.
December 7: Caddo Fireworks Festival: Come by Earl Williamson Park in Oil City at 1 pm for fair food, live music, chats with Santa (and a free gift), and holiday shopping—then stay for the incredible fireworks display scheduled for 6:30 pm. Free. christmasoncaddofireworks.com.
December 7: Twin City Ballet Christmas Gala: Join the Twin City Ballet at the Monroe Civic Center for its 2024 Christmas gala production, a ballet
performance of Scrooge, based on Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol. 7:30 pm. $25. twincityballet.org.
December 7: Christmas on the Farm: Ruston's Outdoor Wilderness Learning Center invites one and all to an outdoor celebration of the season, featuring pony rides, a petting zoo, a maze, crafts, games, a bounce house, hay rides, a rock wall, and more. And, of course, a chance to meet the man in red. All proceeds benefit the Center's therapeutic riding program. 10 am–3 pm. $20/car, cash only. lumcfs. org/owl-center.
December 7: Bawcomville Redneck
Christmas Parade: Living in Louisiana, to say "you've never seen a parade like this" is no small thing. But I'm telling you, you've never seen a parade like this. This self-deprecatory fun-filled parade dives into the redneck theme, and throws all sorts of interesting surprises. Rolls down Smith Street in Bawcomville. 10 am. monroewestmonroe.org.
December 7: Kiwanis Christmas Parade: The Kiwanis Club of Greater Ouachita sets
out on its annual Christmas Parade through downtown Monroe. This year's theme is"The Great Elf Takeover." 3:30 pm. Free. monroe-westmonroe.org.
December 7: Grand Cane Tour of Homes: The Grand Cane Historic Association shows off the facades of four of its most beautiful historic homes during Christmastime. 1 pm–4 pm. $20. discoverdesoto.com.
December 7: Christmas on the River Fireworks: Don't miss the annual shebang, best viewed from downtown Monroe or West Monroe. 6 pm. Free. monroewestmonroe.org.
December 7: Stonewall Christmas Parade: The community Christmas parade returns in Stonewall, where all of the floats will be decked out in lights and local organizations will be on full display. Fireworks will follow the parade. 6:30 pm. Free. discoverdesoto.com.
December 8: "A Christmas Carol": Witness the classic Dickens play at the Strand in Shreveport with all the trappings of the holiday season. 2 pm. See varying ticket prices at thestrandtheatre.com.
December 8: A Merry & Bright Monroe Symphony Orchestra: Celebrate the season with the Monroe Symphony Orchestra, accompanied by the Delta Youth Chorale and the Nutcracker Dancers from Missy Crain Ballet. 2 pm at the West Monroe
Sports Complex. $50; $20 for students. mymso.org.
December 12: Natchitoches Christmas Home Tours: Hosted by the Natchitoches Historic Foundation, these tours take you into some of the historic district's most fascinating homes, all decked out for the season. Docents will lead commentaries on the history of each property, as well as their unique holiday decorations. Times and prices vary. 10:30 am–10:30 pm. Find details at natchitoches.com.
December 13: West Monroe Lighted Children's Parade: There's just something so special about great things, miniaturized. Don't miss this teeny Christmas Parade in Downtown West Monroe, designed for tykes and tinies, with bicycles, wagons, and battery-powered cars rolling down Trenton—all beneath the city's gorgeous light displays. 6 pm. Free. monroewestmonroe.org.
December 13–15, 20–22: “It's a Wonderful Life” at Shreveport Little Theatre: Journey to Bedford Falls for this classic Christmas tale at Shreveport Little Theatre, featuring George Bailey and your other favorites. 7:30 pm; 2 pm Sundays. $30. shreveportlittletheatre.com.
December 14: Mansfield Christmas Parade: Marching units, performing groups, and floats will proceed down Kings Highway this season in Mansfield to celebrate all
the joy of Christmastime. 2 pm. Free. discoverdesoto.com.
December 14: Bossier Holiday Night Market : The largest one-day vendor event in the country, the Bossier Holiday Night Market returns to the parking lot of the Pierre Bossier Mall with 75,000 twinkling lights, live Christmas music, free kids' activities, and lots of Bossier swag. Vendors from all over will be peddling everything from one-of-a-kind handcrafted goods to delicious food truck eats to vintage clothing. 3 pm–9 pm. Free. bossiernightmarket.com.
December 14: Calhoun Christmas Parade : This year, Calhoun's annual Christmas Parade has a Western theme, with Santa wanted for breaking and entering. Sit back and watch the festive interpretations displayed on locally-made floats. 11 am. Free. monroe-westmonroe.org.
December 14: Pet Photos with Santa: Snag the cutest Christmas keepsake ever by bringing your furry pal to Biedenharn Museum for a photo with the big guy himself. $15 per pet. 9 am–noon. bmuseum.org.
December 14: Christmas Market on the Alley: Head out to West Monroe's Alley Park for a spirited Christmas Market, perfect for all of your last-minute shopping needs. 10 am–3 pm. Free. monroe-westmonroe.org.
December 14: A Christmas Blues Spectacular : The award-winning blues artist D.K. Harrell and Friends will perform classic holiday hits for one performance at the Dixie Center for the Arts. 7 pm. $25 in advance; $30 at the door. rustonlincoln.com.
December 14–15: Shreveport Metropolitan Ballet's Production of "The Nutcracker": Over one hundred local dancers take the stage at Riverview Theater for this holiday performance, telling the beloved story of adventure and holiday magic. 6:30 pm Saturday, 2:30 pm Sunday. $35–$55. shreveportmetroballet.org.
December 15: Alexandria Mardi Gras Association Christmas Parade : Celebrate the holidays, Mardi Gras-style, with Alexandria's Mardi Gras krewe. Featuring festively decorated floats, performances, and even a visit from Santa himself, the parade will kick off the holidays on Jackson Street. 2 pm. Free. alexmardigras.net.
December 18: Christmas Coca-Cola Truck: The season's most photogenic vehicle is making a stop in Monroe at the Biedenharn, as is the Grinch, the Coca Cola Polar Bear, and yummy food trucks. 5 pm–8 pm. Free. bmuseum.org.
December 20: Ruston Christmas Parade : Gather up the family for another chance at watching floats and catching goodies this season. Lineup begins at Ruston High School. 6 pm–7 pm. rustonlincoln.com.
HOLIDAYS IN THE NEW ORLEANS AREA
Saturdays & Sundays December 1–15, & December 20–24, 27: Teddy Bear Tea: This delightful New Orleans tradition has enchanted young ones and adults alike for generations. At the gorgeously-decorated Roosevelt New Orleans, Santa and Mrs. Claus will welcome all to a presentation of holiday delights, specialty teas, tasty pastries, and mimosas for Mom and Dad. Two to three seatings each day. $95 for everyone older than eleven; $72 for ages three to ten. VIP options available. therooseveltneworleans.com.
December 1–January 1: Waldorf Wonderland: One of the most breathtaking light displays in New Orleans is when the Roosevelt lights its Grand Lobby, including 112,000 twinkling lights, 1,600 feet of garland, and 4,000 glass ornaments. Free. therooseveltneworleans.com.
December 1–January 3: Celebration in the Oaks: For more than forty years, thousands of visitors pour into New Orleans City Park to see the magical winter spectacle, for which the park’s famous oaks are swathed in hundreds of thousands of twinkling lights across its twenty-five acres, including the Botanical Garden, Storyland, and Carousel Gardens. $35 per person for a walking tour pass, or $40 for a driving tour pass. 5 pm–11 pm (6 pm–9 pm Christmas day), closed Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve. celebrationintheoaks.com.
December 3–7: Elf: The Musical: Will Ferrell crashing wide-eyed through James Caan's cynicism made Elf a Christmas classic in 2003. More than twenty years later, the tale has spread to the stage with Elf! The Musical. At the Saenger, with performances at 7:30 pm Tuesday–Thursday; a 1 pm performance on Thursday; 8 pm on Friday; 10 am, 3 pm, and 8 pm on Saturday. Tickets start at $30. saengernola.com.
December 5: LPO: Classic Christmas: Join the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra for an evening at the Orpheum Theater, with performances of masterpieces such as Menotti’s “Introduction, “March,” and “Shepherds Dance” from Amahl and the Night Visitors and excerpts from Handel’s Messiah. 7:30 pm. Tickets start at $35. lpomusic.com.
December 6–8: Christkindl Mart : The Deutsches Haus presents its annual Christkindl Mart, featuring vendors selling handmade or German-themed crafts, local bands and choirs, special German Christmas food favorites, and an appearance from Christkind, or St. Nicholas. Friday 4 pm–8 pm, Saturday 11 am–8 pm, Sunday 11 am–4 pm. Free. deutscheshaus.org.
December 7: Algiers Bonfire and Concert : The Westbank’s official kickoff to the holiday season includes local musical talent, food, drink, and of course a bonfire, which will light Santa's way down the Mississippi. The NOLA Burners (the New Orleans group that builds Burning Man sculptures every year) will once again have Brennan Steele create a unique bonfire sculpture. 4:30 pm–8 pm at the Algiers Ferry Landing, 200 Morgan Street. Free. neworleans.com.
December 7: Children's Hospital New Orleans Holiday Parade : This holiday parade will roll again in downtown New Orleans featuring thirty Mardi Gras World-created floats outfitted with technology like animatronics, intelligent lighting systems, special effects, and beyond. All the grandeur of the city’s globally-recognized Carnival phenomenon finds its way to the streets for the Christmas season. The parade starts at the corner of Esplanade Avenue and North Peters Street. Parade rolls at 11 am, ends in Lafayette Square around 1 pm with a holiday celebration until 3 pm. Free. nolaholidayparade.com.
December 7: St. Nick Celebration: A very New Orleans celebration of the season, with live music, kids' activities, and a Saint Nick Second Line in Dutch Ally at the French Market. 11 am–4 pm. Free. frenchmarket.org.
December 7: Krewe of Krampus NOLAuf Parade : Here’s the only Christmas Parade in the region where you might just end up with a lump of coal from the creepy German folkloric figure himself. In the walking parade tradition of New Orleans, this unusual event draws together performers and creative costumery for the most over-the-top celebration of Krampuslauf this side of the Alps. Rolls at 7:30 pm. Find the route at kreweofkrampus.com.
December 8–14: Paradigm Gardens Holiday Market : Shop from thirty local art and craft vendors, pet a pygmy goat, get a chair massage, enjoy live music, and even have a farm-to-table brunch with fresh squeezed juices from Chef Dave of Resurrection Gardens—all at Paradigm Holiday Brunch Market. 10 am–4 pm (music from noon–2 pm). Free. paradigmgardensnola.com.
December 14: Running of the Santas: With the return of Running of the Santas, thousands of jolly, be-jingled joggers will descend on New Orleans’s Warehouse District at 2 pm, starting at the South Pole (aka Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar). At 6 pm, the Santas set off through the five-block fun run, heading for the North Pole (aka Generations Hall, 310 Andrew Higgins Drive). A portion of proceeds benefit the "That Others May Live" Foundation. 2 pm–11 pm. $15; $75 VIP. runningofthesantas.com.
December 14: Lights on the Lake : Take in the Holiday Boat Parade from the best vantage point on the lake, the New Canal Lighthouse, with the Pontchartrain Conservancy. In addition to the great view, they promise a stellar live music line-up, delicious local food trucks, hot toddies and other seasonal refreshments, kids' educational activities and crafts, and pictures with Santa. 5 pm–8 pm. $10. scienceforourcoast.org.
December 19: LPO: Holiday Spectacular : The Orpheum gets lit for the holidays with special help from the LPO and an especially lively setlist featuring some of the best from the classical holiday repertoire, including Holcombe’s “Twas the Night Before Christmas,” Wendel’s “Chanukah Overture,” Herbert’s “Champagne Galop.” 7:30 pm. Tickets start at $35. lpomusic.com.
December 20–30: NOLA ChristmasFest : Thousands of Louisianans descend on the Ernest Morial Convention Center, drawn by the vision of carving graceful arcs into the ice skating rink alongside Santa at the center of NOLA ChristmasFest's festivities. In any case, the event promises to heal bruised prides (and bottoms) with holiday characters, amusement rides, themed inflatables, arts & crafts, decorated Christmas trees, and a gingerbread house exhibition. $25 weekdays; $30 weekends. nolachristmasfest.com.
December 21–22: Delta Festival Ballet's “The Nutcracker”: Join Louisiana's largest resident, professional dance company, the Delta Festival Ballet, for their New Orleans rendition of the sweet, sweet classic, The Nutcracker, which features accompaniment performed by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. 6 pm Saturday, 2 pm Sunday at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. Tickets start at $35. mahaliajacksontheater.com.
December 22: Patio Planters Holiday Home Tour : The Patio Planters of the Vieux Carré once again present iconic Quarter homes dressed up for the season. The self-guided walking tour includes details about architectural styles and home furnishings, as well
Holiday Events
In New Orleans, on the Cajun Coast & the
Northshore
as Christmas decor collections. Homes will be open from noon–4 pm; $35 in advance, $40 day-of. Tickets can be picked up or purchased at The Cabildo. patioplanters.net.
December 22: Caroling in Jackson Square : This free community singalong has illuminated the Square by candlelight since 1946, filling the air with holiday favorites. Complimentary songbooks and candles will be provided. 7 pm. Free. patioplanters.net.
HOLIDAYS ON THE CAJUN COAST
December 1–31: Traditional Idlewild Plantation Christmas Lighting : Take a winding cruise through the lights from 5 pm–8 pm Sunday through Thursday and 5 pm–9 pm Friday and Saturday at Kemper Williams Park in Patterson, $5 per car. cajuncoast.com.
December 1: Norco Christmas Parade: The town of Norco's Christmas parade returns to the small town's streets this year, starting on River Road and Apple
Street. The theme will be "Norco Noel: Santa Goes to the Olympics!," so expect to see fans of all sports come out for this family-friendly community extravaganza. 1 pm. norconoel.com.
December 1–31: Victorian Christmas at Grevemberg House and Shadowlawn: Admire the Franklin home bedecked with a Victorian style tree and seasonal greenery. Closed Christmas Eve and Day, 10 am–4 pm. $12, $10 for seniors, $8 for children. 337-828-2092. cajuncoast.com.
December 2: Berwick Annual Christmas Tree Lighting : Refreshments and live music will be awaiting Santa's arrival at the lighthouse (by boat), all for the occasion of lighting up the town tree. 6 pm–8 pm. cajuncoast.com.
December 7: City of Franklin Christmas Under the Lamppost, Decorated Golf Cart Parade, & Christmas on the Bayou Lighting Display Ceremony: Follow the festive golf carts down to the courthouse, where word has it, they'll be setting the city alight with over 1 million twinkles. Parade begins at 6 pm. Free. cajuncoast.com.
December 7–January 1: Christmas Lights on Bayou Teche : Cruise down Teche Drive, Main, Martin Luther King and Iberia Streets in Franklin to take in over a million lights along Parc Sur La Teche (for festive accompaniment, tune into 93.5 FM). cajuncoast.com.
December 7: Christmas Movie Night in Berwick: A Christmas flick, Santa, gifts, food, and drink at the Berwick Civic Center. Santa at 6 pm; movie at 7 pm. Free. cajuncoast.com.
December 8: Miracle on First Street : Over fifty vendors, live music, and more, on First Street in Berwick. 5 pm–8 pm. Free. cajuncoast.com.
December 8: Patterson Christmas Parade : All the trappings of a charming Cajun Christmas parade. 2 pm down Main Street in Patterson. Free. cajuncoast.com.
December 10 : Marine Corps Band Toys for Tots Christmas Concert : See the band in action at the Municipal Auditorium in Morgan City, and all for a great cause. In lieu of an entry fee, bring a new, unwrapped toy. 7 pm. cajuncoast.com.
December 11: Wedell-Williams Aviation & Cypress Sawmill Annual Christmas Tree Festival: Admire a slew of decorated trees at the Patterson Museum at Kemper Williams Park. Free admission
and refreshments. 5 pm–7 pm. louisianastatemuseum.org.
December 14: Morgan City’s Christmas Parade: At the Morgan City's annual Christmas Parade, head downtown to 2nd Street for a festive display, followed by a movie. Free. 6 pm. cajuncoast.com.
December 14: Mingle & Jingle Downtown Franklin: Shopping gets serious in Franklin as the holidays approach. On this festive evening, everyone's staying open late and offering discounts, Santa appearances, and more. 10 am–8 pm. cajuncoast.com.
December 15: Berwick Christmas Teddy Bear Tea: Join the hosts at The Old Building in Patterson for an afternoon Christmas tea with Santa, featuring finger foods, Christmas treats, champagne and mimosas, coffee and tea, and a build-abear opportunity with Teddy Mobile of Acadiana, plus photos by Abigail Kathleen Photography. $50; $35 for children younger than 12. theoldbuilding3190.com.
HOLIDAYS ON THE NORTHSHORE
December 6: Sips of the Season Stroll: One of the most anticipated culinary events of the season, this Girod Street stroll is marked by a beautiful Covington evening, brightly decorated shop sand
Holiday Events
On the Northshore & in Acadiana
restaurants, delicious holiday-themed craft cocktails, and plenty of snacks too. 5 pm–9 pm in Old Mandeville. christmasstroll.org.
December 6: Covington by Candlelight : Candlelight and Christmas Carols truly set the mood for the holidays, and Covington will indulge in both with local musicians and singing groups at the Covington Trailhead Museum and Visitors Center beginning at 6 pm. Free. visitthenorthshore.com.
December 6–8: Christmas Extravaganza Arts & Crafts Expo: Steinhauer Productions returns to the St. Tammany Parish Fairgrounds for one of the largest arts and crafts expos in the South. 9 am–5 pm each day. $8 for ages 13 and older. visitthenorthshore.com.
December 6–7, 13–14: Mandeville Holiday of Lights: The annual lights display and festivities will enlighten the St. Tammany Parish Administrative Complex grounds once again this year. Be sure to catch the parade, carnival, performances from area schools and organizations and, of course, the lights.
Festivities are generally held the first two weekends in December. After, the event becomes a drive-thru experience. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. louisiananorthshore.com.
December 6–8, 13–15: "The Charitable Sisterhood Christmas Spectacular": Make merry with this festive romp at the Playmakers Theater in Covington telling the story of the Charitable Sisterhood circa 1977 planning for the church's annual Christmas Spectacular—all while a criminal is on the run and the baby Jesus figure has been kidnapped from the local nativity scene. 7:30 pm Fridays and Saturdays; 2 pm Sundays. $15–$20. bontempstix.com.
December 6–8, 13–15, 20–22: "SCROOGE!" at Slidell Little Theatre : Enjoy this musical adaptation of Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol at Slidell Little Theatre, complete with a cast of the characters you know so well, just in time for Christmas. 8 pm Fridays; 2 pm Saturdays and Sundays. $35; $25 for seniors and students. slidelllittletheatre.org.
December 7: Winter on the Water Parade & Festival: This fun family event brings the magic of the holidays to Mandeville,
featuring Mandeville's big annual Santa Street Parade, followed by a parade of boats bedecked for the season floating by on Lake Pontchartrain. Plus live entertainment, photos with Santa, and the lovely lighting of the oaks on the lakefront. Santa’s Walking Parade begins at 4 pm at the Pontchartrain Yacht Club, and ends at the Mandeville Trailhead. Free. louisiananorthshore.com.
December 13: Bayou Jam Christmas Spectacular with Vince Vance and the Valiants: Heritage Park comes alive for the start of December with this free concert by Vince Vance and the Valiants, who will bring a holiday twist to their normal set. Concert-goers are encouraged to dress in holiday costumes. 6 pm–8 pm. Free. myslidell.com.
December 13–15: Festival of the Bonfires and Christmas on the River : The little town of Lutcher has made a tradition celebrating its Festival of the Bonfires each December. Call it Christmas lights Cajun style, it's a prelude to the Christmas Eve bonfires later in the month. The sparks and holiday cheer ignite Friday afternoon at 2 pm, with the festival continuing all day Saturday and Sunday with Christmas on the River— Cajun Style! at Lutcher Recreational Park. Enjoy live entertainment, food, crafts, Santa's Very Merry Forest, carnival rides, and more. festivalofthebonfires.org.
December 13–14, 20–23: Slidell’s Bayou
Christmas: This annual fundraiser for the Slidell Boys & Girls Club is hosted in the evenings at Heritage Park. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. Find the event on Slidell's Bayou Christmas Facebook page.
December 14: Christmas Past Festival: An abundance of artists and vendors, a children's village, an ugly sweater contest, train rides, a petting zoo, musical performances, and Mr. Claus himself on Girod Street in historic Old Mandeville. 10 am–4 pm. Free. christmaspastfestival.com.
December 14: Folsom Horse & Wagon Christmas Parade : Santa trades the sleigh for a horse-drawn wagon at this oldfashioned parade, which includes an antique tractor show, "best dressed horse and rider" contest, and "most original wagon" competition. Starts on Hwy 40 right outside of Folsom. Parade at 1 pm; Craft Fair from 10 am–4 pm. Free. Find out more on Facebook.
December 14–15: Ballet Apetrei’s "The Nutcracker": Experience Ballet Apetrei’s rendition of the dazzling holiday favorite at performances at the Fuhrmann Auditorium this season. 7 pm Saturday; 2 pm Sunday. $20 general admission or $30 for reserved seating. Tickets at bontempstix.com.
December 14–15: A Mandeville
Christmas Living Nativity: Mandeville's First Baptist Church presents a tenscene living Nativity during the holiday season, reflecting on the birth of Jesus Christ. 6 pm–8 pm each night. Free. visitthenorthshore.com.
HOLIDAYS IN ACADIANA
Saturdays & Sundays in December until December 22, plus December 23: McGee's Swamp Tours' Atchafalaya
Christmas: Join Papa Noël on the Basin for these incredible one-of-a-kind Cajun holiday experiences—where the “Cajun Night Before Christmas” comes alive. After each tour, guests can take photos with Santa, create their own memento ornament, and enjoy hot chocolate, cookies, and candy canes. $25. See tour times at mcgeesswamptours.com.
December 1–21: Downtown Advent Adventures: Release the magic of the holiday season, one festive adventure at a time—each day from November 30–December 21 "unlocks' new holiday themed activities for New Iberia residents to take part in, ranging from movie nights to Christmas crafts. Check the New Iberia Advent Activity Event Facebook Page each day at 11 am for live videos announcing the day’s details. Free.
December 1–23: Noël Acadien au Village: LARC’s Acadian Village will host its annual Christmas festival fundraiser to benefit persons with intellectual and developmental disabilities. Noël Acadien au Village will feature half a million lights, themed Acadian home porches, lighted holiday displays, live entertainment, carnival rides, local cuisine, photos with Santa, holiday shopping, and more. Be sure to visit the Gingerbread House and Christmas Carolers. The event will be open nightly from 5:30 pm–9 pm (weather permitting). $10 at the gate. Children ages two and younger, as well as active military, are free. acadianvillage.org.
December 1–January 5: Window
Wonderland: This neighborhood-wide fine arts installation, facilitated by the organization Basin Arts, pairs local artists with businesses downtown Lafayette for stunning visual displays to draw forth the holiday spirit. This year’s theme is “Traditions to Treasure”—inspired by the distinct cultural heritage of the area, with all of its many traditions. basinartslafayette.com.
December 5: A Zydeco Christmas with Keith Frank: Joining the Acadiana Symphony, zydeco star Keith Frank, performing with more than one hundred musicians, will usher in the holidays with a zydeco performance infused with
Christmas classics. 7 pm. Tickets start at $30. acadianasymphony.org.
December 5–6: The Eunice Concert Band & Choir Christmas Concert : Two evenings of Christmas cheer will be presented by local musicians at the First Baptist Church in Eunice. Celebrating its 34th anniversary, the group is made up of a choir concert band, an adult choir, and a children’s choir and sings in a variety of styles. Expect glorious renditions of holiday favorites including “Can You Hear the Christmas Bells,” “Star of Bethlehem,” “Santa Baby,” and more. 7 pm. $5; $2 for children younger than twelve. eccbc.org.
December 5–7: Christmas at Coteau: This annual seasonal celebration is a shopping, dining, and holiday event on the lovely grounds of Grand Coteau's Academy of the Sacred Heart. Christmas at Coteau gets started on Thursday with a cocktail-style preview party featuring live performances by Three Thirty Seven, then continues through the weekend, with the festival gearing up at 10 am Friday. All proceeds benefit Schools of the Sacred Heart at Grand Coteau. 10 am–4 pm on Friday; 10 am–3 pm Saturday. ash1821.org.
December 6: Lighting of the Tree Concert Featuring Chubby Carrier: Don't miss the annual Lighting of the Tree Concert
Season
in Parc International in Downtown Lafayette—which has been transformed into a winter wonderland with a twentyfive-foot-tall Christmas tree. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. downtownlafayette.org.
December 6–15: IPAL Presents “A Christmas Story: The Musical”: An infamous leg lamp, outrageous pink bunny pajamas, a triple-dog-dare to lick a freezing flagpole...This month at the the Iberia Performing Arts League, see all these memorable scenes and more at A Christmas Story: The Musical, based on the 1983 classic film. Various times Fridays–Sundays. Tickets start at $23. ipaltheater.com.
December 6–27: Creole Christmas: Visit the Longfellow-Evangeline State Historic Site this holiday season, where you can tour the Olivier Plantation Home (circa 1815) and take in their lovely, all naturally-sourced from the property, period-appropriate Christmas decorations. Visitors will learn how the holiday was celebrated in the mid 1800s. 9 am–5 pm. (337) 394-3754. lastateparks.com.
December 7: Christmas in Carencro: It’s a whole day of Christmas cheer, and a lot of it: think choirs, arts and crafts, holiday treats, and an opportunity to donate toys to those less fortunate. It all kicks off with the annual "Dancer, Dasher, Prancer 5K Run" at 8 am, then carries forth with the
FREE WINTER RECEPTION
Join us to celebrate our winter exhibitions.
♦ Thursday, December 5 at 6 PM
HOLIDAY SHOPPING
Shop special offers at the LSU Museum Store.
♦ Friday, December 6 from 4–8 PM
SANTA’S ART STUDIO
Free holiday art activities for all ages.
♦ Sunday, December 15 from 1–4 PM
POP-UP GUIDED TOURS
Explore exhibits during these pop-up art tours.
♦ Friday, December 13 at 12 PM and 6 PM
♦ Friday, January 10 at 12 PM and 6 PM
♦ Sunday, January 19 at 2 PM
CURATOR SPECIAL EVENT
Learn more about the exhibition In a New Light. ♦ Thursday, February 13 at 6 PM
HOLIDAY CLOSURE: DECEMBER 23–JANUARY 1
In Acadiana & the Felicianas, Natchez & Pointe Coupée Holiday Events
Carencro Country Christmas vendor village at the Carencro Community Center and the official Christmas Parade at 10 am. In the evening, set out towards downtown for the Old Fashioned Christmas Candyland. 8 am–8 pm. Free. Details on the Christmas in Carencro Facebook Page.
December 7: Village of Pine Prairie Christmas Celebration: The season officially begins in The Village with a market of local vendors, the official Pine Prairie Christmas Parade, and the lighting of the town Christmas Tree. Enjoy taking photos with Santa, while snacking on pizza, cookies, and sipping on hot chocolate. It all takes place at the heart of town on Veterans Memorial Highway. (337) 599-2904. evangelineparishtourism.org.
December 7: Noël a Broussard: The holiday season leaps to the streets with the annual Broussard Christmas Parade, starting at 3 pm at the corner of Morgan Avenue and Albertson Parkway, and ending at Arceneaux Park. Afterwards, celebrate the festive spirit in front of Broussard City Hall with reindeer games, face painting, balloon artistry, a Christmas Market, and the annual lighting of the city Christmas Tree. Caroling begins at 5:45 pm, tree-lighting at 6:30 pm. Free. broussard chamber.chambermaster.com.
December 8: Sonic Christmas Parade and After Party: Welcome Santa to Lafayette this season and meet him on the parade route, which runs from Jefferson through Downtown all the way to the Oil Center. Afterwards, keep the fun going at the official after party in Parc International, featuring cookie decorating, arts and crafts, inflatables, food, beverages, and much more. Parade starts at 1 pm. Free. downtownlafayette.org.
December 8: Delcambre Main Street Christmas Parade : Delcambre takes the spirit to the streets for the annual Main Street Christmas Parade—Santa joins local marching bands and dance groups to deck the streets in holiday cheer. 2 pm–4 pm. (337) 519-2541.
December 8: Mamou Christmas Parade : At this spirited holiday showcase of the town's organizations and creatives, the "Cajun Music Capital of the World" comes alive for Christmas. Afterwards, children can enjoy cookies and hot chocolate with Santa at the Rec Center. 6 pm. evangelineparishtourism.org.
December 12: The Opelousas Children’s Christmas Parade : Any joyous occasion in Louisiana calls for a parade, and Christmas is no exception. This one, with kids in mind, includes entertainment, music, marching bands, lighted floats, and most importantly: Santa and his buddies. The parade starts at 6 pm at Academy and Landry Streets, and rolls through downtown Opelousas to the Yambilee Grounds. cityofopelousas.com.
December 14: Holiday Market at ArtWalk: It's everyone's favorite monthly market, Christmas-style. Enjoy this Holiday themed market set up in Parc Sans Souci in Downtown Lafayette, featuring over thirty vendors with one-of-a-kind artwork and gifts, plus live entertainment. 4 pm. Free. downtownlafayette.org.
December 14: Queen City Christmas Parade : A festive parade will meander down New Iberia's historic Main Street, directly followed by a boat parade on Bayou Teche, and a grand finale of fireworks. Following the street parade, Santa will be available for photos in his workshop in the Bouligny Plaza Gazebo. For the boat parade, head bayou-side to take in the Christmas lights and holiday-bedecked boats parade down the Teche. Street parade begins at 5:30 pm, the boat parade begins at 6 pm at Bayou Landing (Lewis Street Bridge). bayoutraditions.com.
December 14: A Very Berry Christmas Quest : Grab your family and set out on an adventure across New Iberia, completing a list of kid-friendly tasks with stops inside all of your favorite local businesses. Pick up your goody bag—filled with coupons and holiday treats, as well as your quest cards, at the Iberia Chamber office. 9 am–4 pm. $12 for children ages four to seventeen; $5 for adults ages eighteen and older. iberiachamber.org.
December 14: Pancakes and PJs with Santa: Families are invited to bring their blankets to the Sliman Theatre in New Iberia for a pancakes and sausage picnic with Santa and Mrs. Claus, plus holiday face painting, story time with Mrs. Claus, and photo opportunities with Santa. 8 am–10:30 am. $10–$15. bayoutraditions.com.
December 14: Christmas ArtWalk in Paris a la Breaux Bridge : Stroll the glittering streets of beautiful Breaux
Bridge, all holiday-ed up as she is, for this special artwalk. Step into downtown shops, galleries, and restaurants, and meet local artists showcasing their work on the street—all while listening to local musicians to add to the festive feel. 3 pm–8 pm. Details at the Christmas Artwalk in Paris—a la Breaux Bridge.
December 14: Grosse Tete Christmas Parade and Christmas on the Bayou Festival: Festive cheer will roll down the streets of Grosse Tete starting at 1 pm, followed immediately after by the annual Christmas festival at the North Iberville Visitors Center—the perfect way to celeberate the holidays. Free. visitiberville. com.
December 14: Christmas in Washington: Shop from vendors from 10 am– 5 pm downtown in the historic town of Washington, centered around the former Doucet Motors sales lot, where you can watch the big tree light up at 7 pm. There'll be a DJ and Kids' Corner with face painting and balloon artistry all throughout the day. 10 am–7 pm. cajuntravel.com. (337) 826-3626.
December 14: St. Lucy Festival of Lights: Each year, Saint Martin de Tours Catholic Church in St. Martinville hosts the St.
Lucy Festival of Lights, a family celebration that begins with 4 pm mass, followed by a children's parade of box floats. The night will close with photos with Santa, the lighting of the Square, live Cajun music, seasonal movies, and Christmas caroling. Free. saintmartindetours.org.
December 14: Old Time Winter Family Day at Vermilionville: Vermilionville's Historic Village will receive a holiday makeover, transporting visitors back in time to experience the simple beauty of Louisiana Christmases past—drawing on the traditions of the Acadian, Creole, and Native American cultures that lived here. Sing carols, hear stories, decorate cookies, make bousillage ornaments, citrus pomanders, and candles, and more. 10 am–4 pm. $5. bayouvermilionvilledistrict. org.
December 15–17: Christmas in the Park: Celebrate the season in Lafayette's Moncus Park, where local musicians, Chubby Carrier and the Bayou Swamp Band (Friday) and Gerald Gruenig and Gentilly Zydeco (Saturday) will infuse the air with holiday spirit. On Sunday, come back to see two holiday films on the big screen. Bring the kids—there will be activities just for them, including a Christmas light tunnel, “Santa’s Workshop” crafts, s’mores
Visit the State Capitol during the Christmas Season to see it fully decorated for the holidays, including a Nativity Scene beside the giant Christmas Tree in the Memorial Hall. Free. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. Find out more at visitbatonrouge.com.Photo courtesy of Patricia Parsons.
stations, and photos with Santa. Food will be available for purchase. 6 pm–9 pm. $20 for on-site parking, or take advantage of free parking at Blackham Coliseum with a shuttle to Moncus Park. moncuspark.org/ christmas.
December 17: Louisiana Christmas Day Concert : Bayou Teche Music Productions presents a festive evening of music from internationally acclaimed bass-baritone Andre Courville and the Atchafalaya Orchestra with special guests, the Grammynominated Sweet Cecilia, Jennifer Kaye from Louisiana Red, and Grammynominated accordionist Corey Ledet, plus others. 6 pm. Tickets start at $20. heymanncenter.com.
HOLIDAYS IN THE FELICIANAS, NATCHEZ, & POINTE COUPÉE
November 15–December 31: Little Easy Christmas Tours in Natchez: Natchez has been called the "Christmas movie capital of the South," and in recent years, some of the Bluff City's most beautiful historic homes started opening their wreathed doors for the town's Christmas Tour of Historic Homes. Homes included will be The Towers, Linden Suburban Villa, Magnolia Hall, Choctaw Hall, and The House on Ellicott Hill—and each is guaranteed to be bedecked with
holiday displays, such as a Jeweled Christmas at The Towers. Find more information at littleeasytours.com.
December 2: Sound of the Season Christmas Concert : Clarence Jones and Heritage Choir will perform special holiday classics as part of this beloved holiday tradition at Grace Episcopal Church in St. Francisville. Ring in the holidays with a performance to remember. All proceeds will go towards the renovation efforts of the Old Benevolent Society Building on Ferdinand Street. 6 pm. visitstfrancisvillela.com.
December 6: Holiday Brass at Hemingbough: The full Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra brass and percussion is ready and prepped to put you in the holiday spirit in the magical environs of Hemingbough, filled with the magic (and joyous sounds) of Christmas. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $35. brso.org.
December 6: Natchez Garden Club's Annual Christmas Luncheon: Welcome the holidays with the Natchez Garden Club's annual Holiday Christmas Luncheon. Magnolia Hall in Natchez will set the scene for a festive holiday season, paired with a scrumptious lunch. Come enjoy delectable items locally prepared by club members. 11am–1 pm. $20; open to the public. After lunch, enjoy a soup and casserole sale.$20. natchezgardenclub.org.
December 6–8: St. Francisville Christmas in the Country: St. Francisville comes alive with Christmas cheer each December, including such festivities as a tree lighting, living nativity, cookies and cocoa drive-thru, music and artists, breakfast with Santa, holiday home tours, a Christmas parade, and more. Spend a festive weekend filled with holiday cheer in a small town famous for its charm. visitstfrancisvillela.com.
December 6–January 6: West Feliciana Hospital Christmas Lights Display Drive-Thru: Spend an evening conjuring holiday magic, courtesy of the lights displays at the local hospital. Opening night will also feature cookies and cocoa for guests. wfph.org.
December 7: Christmas Spirits Historic District Stroll: Join in for a progressive "Christmas Spirits" stroll through the historic district of St. Francisville while "illuminating" the streets with 3,000 luminaries. Along the way will be four spirit stops at Historic District homes for ticketed guests ($50). Free activities include a kids' ornament workshop at Old Market Hall, hot chocolate included; hymn singing at the United Methodist Church; and peeks into participating homes in the historic district. 5 pm–7 pm. bontempstix.com.
December 7: Christmas in the Country Tour of Homes: Explore some of St.
Francisville's most intriguing historic homes, all dressed in their holiday best during the festive Christmas in the Country weekend. 10 am–4 pm. $30 in advance; $35 day-of. bontempstix.com.
December 7: Breakfast with Santa at Grace Church: The West Feliciana High School dance team will once again host its annual breakfast with Santa to kick off the holiday season. Enjoy a delicious breakfast, photos with the big guy himself, and a performance by West Fel High dancers and cheerleaders sure to warm your heart and spark your Christmas spirit. Seatings at 8 am, 9:30 am, and 11 am. $15. bontempstix.com.
December 12: Light Up the Holidays: The Poydras Center in New Roads will light up for the season at this event hosted by the Arts Council of Pointe Coupee, with a dinner, potential to win door prizes, and a live holiday performance featuring James Linden Hogg. Doors open at 6 pm; performance at 7 pm. artscouncilofpointecoupee.org. 1
Illuminated Elegance
AT BURDEN'S WINDRUSH GARDENS, LOUISIANA LIGHTS DAZZLES BATON ROUGE
Story by Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun • Photos by Sean Gasser
Uthe first warm glimmers of the new “Louisiana Lights” display, you might glimpse several oaks, each swathed exquisitely in strands of lights shifting slowly from soft white to multicolored hues.
These tree-wrapped lights displays will be some of the last visitors will encounter on the mile-and-a-half tour through a radiant winter wonderland of illumination across Steele Burden’s Windrush Gardens—a deliberate decision to offer a different kind of
“We didn't want just another lightwrapped tree garden,” said Jeff Kuehny, director of the LSU AgCenter Botanic Gardens.
For instance, the giant live oak draping the gateway to the exhibition will be hung with thirty-five Moravian stars, dazzling visitors as they walk beneath a shimmering starlit canopy. Other trees throughout the gardens will be up-lit for visitors to admire.
Opening November 29 and running almost through the end of December,
LSU Rural Life Museum, hopes the luminous attraction will draw people from across Louisiana, and as far as east Texas and Mississippi, making it a key destination for the season. There will also be phases to the project, with additions in the coming years to enhance the show and keep it fresh.
“This is going to bring in a whole new group, a new generation of people being introduced to Windrush, in particular, in a new way,” said Stark. “We're really excited about what this is not only going to mean for the property, and Burden Museum and Gardens, and being able to support and maintain the Windrush Gardens, but also what it's going to mean for the community.”
Steele Burden, the youngest of the Burden family and a self-taught landscape architect, designed the gardens across several decades as different “rooms” that the Burden team has creatively and seasonally named for the lights display. Some of those whimsical titles include the “Oscillating Orchard,” “Prismatic Parterre,” and “Radiant Rondelle.” Other transitional spaces that evoke a more natural landscape, such as the “Holiday Hallway” and the “Enchanted Forest” will be lit to captivate and delight as visitors cross from one setting to another.
There will also be aviary ornamentation—in honor of Steele’s pigeonnier—with over one hundred fabricated doves dangling from an oak near his garden shed; a thirty-foot Christmas tree made entirely from lights and ideal for family photos; a decorated gazebo overlooking a water feature; and music, programmed in time to the lights, throughout the display.
Toward the end of the experience, viewers will have a chance to stroll along a lakeshore and admire lights artistically placed atop islands that will be fully visible and free of bramble for the first time in almost three decades, according to Kuehny.
Louisiana Lights promises a new, immersive holiday experience for visitors to Burden Museum and Gardens, long a cultural touchstone and attraction in the greater Baton Rouge region.
Kuehny, a key figure in making the display a reality, said plans have been in the works for four or five years as Burden leaders wondered how to showcase the gardens during the winter months when flowers and trees aren’t in bloom. At the time of writing, he estimates about one hundred people have contributed to bring the light show to life.
Bill Stark, the director of the
The exhibition ends at the Burden family house, where LSU students from the School of Music will be performing. A food and beverage station will allow visitors to rest as children run and play with the giant Christmas baubles dotting the lawn. Designed with all ages in mind, the walk won’t tax young children or the elderly; the route is even stroller- and wheelchair-tested.
“It is very responsive to the environment,” Stark said. “And in being responsive to the gardens, it's both fun, but also has a little bit of elegance to it too—but a very accessible element of elegance.” •
Louisiana Lights will be open Thursday through Sunday, from November 29–December 29 starting at 5:30 pm. lsuagcenter.com.
Events
Beginning December 1 - 29
On December 5, the LSU Museum of Art will host a free reception from 6 pm–8 pm on the fifth floor of the Shaw Center for the Arts to celebrate its two winter exhibitions: In a New Light: American Impressionism 1870–1940, Works from the Bank of America Collection and Rembrandt, Goya, and Dürer: The Marvel of Old Masters. Photo courtesy of LSUMOA.
UNTIL DEC 13th
TALES STORYCORPS
IN NEW ORLEANS
New Orleans, Louisiana
For four weeks, an Airstream trailer will be parked outside of the New Orleans Museum's Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, inviting the public to come inside and tell their stories.
StoryCorps, an initiative founded in 2003 by Dave Isay, is a national oral history project that collects interviews about every day Americans of diverse backgrounds in all fifty states. As part of its Mobile Tour, StoryCorps is partnering with WWNO-New Orleans Public Radio to collect stories of New Orleanians as the 20th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina approaches. To participate, community members must register online for fortyminute interview sessions, which will be guided by a StoryCorps facilitator who will create a safe space for sharing. Participants will receive a digital recording, which will also be archived in the Library of Congress for future generations. And a selection will be aired as part of special programs with WWNO. Learn more at storycorps.org/ wwno. Read more about the program on page 8. 1
UNTIL DEC 21st
VISUAL ARTS
MICHAEL EBLE: SOMEWHERE
Lafayette, Louisiana
Don't miss Somewhere, an exhibition by artist Michael Eble’s on display at
the Hilliard Art Museum in Lafayette. Eble's work blends paint and other materials to create abstract topographies. Through layers of lines, shapes, and colors, Eble's creations add dimension and immediacy to the painting process. hilliardmuseum.org. 1
UNTIL DEC 21st
VISUAL ARTS
THOMAS DEATON, REBECCA KREISLER, AND JAMES HAYMAN AT LEMIEUX
New Orleans, Louisiana
LeMieux Galleries presents three solo exhibitions for the last two months of the year: Thomas Deaton's Whistle and I’ll Come to You, Rebecca Kreisler’s low tide, high noon, and James Hayman's What We Leave Unsaid. Based on a ghost story by M.R. James, Deaton's exhibition delves into daily hauntings, including those caused by nature; in his work, climate change functions almost as a supernatural force. Kreisler creates psychedelic geometric paper sculptures, brimming with energy, while Hayman approaches his exhibition of street photography with humanism and emotion. Reception on December 7. lemieuxgalleries.com. 1
UNTIL DEC 29th
VISUAL ARTS
AFROPOLITAN: CONTEMPORARY
AFRICAN ARTS AT NOMA
New Orleans, Louisiana
In March, the New Orleans Museum of Art unveiled its exhibition Afropolitan:
Events
Beginning December 1 - 31
Contemporary African Arts, which highlights works from its permanent collection by both established and emerging artists from the African continent. The exhibition, located in The Helis Foundation Gallery, features a diverse range of paintings, sculptures, and mixed-media pieces by artists such as Elias Sime, Theophilus Nii Anum Sowah, Seydou Keïta, Malik Sidibé, and Serge Attukwei Clottey. "Afropolitanism" conceptualizes a collective identity rooted in personal ties to Africa, cosmopolitan worldliness, and global perspectives. noma.org. 1
UNTIL DEC 29th
VISUAL ARTS
"THE DIVINE FEMININE" AT NUNU
Arnaudville, Louisiana
In this new series of paintings and drawings by Opelousas artist Kay Jeansonne, the distinct strength and mystery of the woman is explored through renderings of women representing different races, ages, cultures, and experiences—all connected by a
thread of endurance, grace, and dignity. The exhibition features over thirty oil paintings and eight charcoal drawings, and will be displayed at NUNU Arts & Culture Collective through the end of December. nunucollective.org. 1
UNTIL DEC 31st
EXHIBITIONS
"A VANISHING BOUNTY: LOUISIANA'S COASTAL ENVIRONMENT AND CULTURE" AT THNOC
New Orleans, Louisiana
Those of us living on the Gulf Coast— particularly in Louisiana—are well aware that we coexist with a lively and diverse ecosystem of birds, reptiles, marine life, and more. This exhibition at The Historic New Orleans Collection celebrates the richness of this natural life, outlining what is at stake as well as the many environmental threats our habitat faces. Among the items displayed are a rare Audubon Birds of America folio, and an array of handcrafted duck decoys from the Stephens Family Collection. hnoc.org. 1
UNTIL DEC 31st
VISUAL ARTS
ALL IN THE FAMILY: TWO ARTISTS FROM TWO GENERATIONS
Covington, Louisiana
Sometimes the universe draws like minds together—such was the case with artists Babette Beaullieu and her daughter-in-law Margaret Crosby. Besides sharing family, the two share a love for the arts and for Louisiana, passions that come to the forefront of this joint exhibition at Christwood Atrium Gallery. (985) 898-0515. 1
UNTIL JAN 11th
VISUAL ARTS
THE SUM OF US Lafayette, Louisiana
Arnaudville artist Ralph Schexnaydre Jr. has spent the past few years working with non-camera generated imagery, using alternative and antiquated photographic processes. In this new collaborative exhibition at Glide Studios in Lafayette, Schexnaydre's approach to abstract cyanotypes receives another layer of artistry from Lafayette painter Doug Nehrbass. Individual works by both artists will also be featured in the exhibition, which is titled The Sum of Us. On view during the second Saturday
of the month Artwalks in downtown Lafayette, or by appointment at (337) 258-6788. 1
UNTIL AUG 28th
ICONS
RODRIGUE: BEFORE THE BLUE DOG
New Orleans, Louisiana
The Louisiana State Museum and Louisiana Museum Foundation unveil Rodrigue: Before the Blue Dog, an exhibition featuring more than fifty of the artists paintings, opening at the Cabildo. Rodrigue's work on display captures the dark, sometimes eerie depictions of the Cajun landscape, people, and culture he produced before the Blue Dog paintings thrust him into the international spotlight. louisianastatemuseum.org. 1
DEC 6th - DEC 8th
FESTIVALS
PLAQUEMINES PARISH ORANGE FESTIVAL
Buras-Triumph, Louisiana
Orange you glad there's something to celebrate besides Christmas? This year the Plaquemines Parish Fair and Orange Festival returns to the grounds of historic Fort Jackson in Buras. The three-day
event celebrates a century of citrus farming with live music, family activities, local foods, Civil War re-enactments on the hour, carnival and helicopter rides—and lots of cooking and eating contests. Few festivals offer an array of competitions as diverse as this one: pie eating, orange eating, orange peeling, duck calling, shrimp peeling, catfish de-heading, and oyster shucking are all categories in which the competitive may excel. Fort Jackson is off Highway 23. orangefestival.com. 1
DEC 6th - DEC 15th
PERFORMANCES
MARIGNY OPERA BALLET
PRESENTS: "HERE"
New Orleans, Louisiana
For two weekends this December, the Marigny Opera Ballet will premiere its original work, Here —featuring contemporary choreography by Christian Denice and Diogo De Lima and live music composed by Ted Joyner in collaboration with Jeff Pagano and Brian Danos and performed live by The Delachaise Ensemble. Through song and dance, the production is a site-specific immersive exploration of time in the circa-1847 Marigny Opera House, which has held the past as the Holy Trinity Catholic Church for New Orleans's
German immigrant community. 8 pm. $65; $40 for students and seniors; $75 VIP. marignyoperaballet.org. 1
DEC
7th - DEC 31st
VISUAL ARTS
"THE CAT IS IN THE DETAILS"
AT GALLERY 600 JULIA
New Orleans, Louisiana
Gallery 600 Julia presents The Cat is in the Details, an exhibition by artist Thomas Lofton. Updating the more familiar idiom, Lofton uses visual depictions of New Orleans to tell stories of a city inhabited by a signature tuxedo cat. Artist reception December 7, 6 pm– 8 pm. gallery600julia.com. 1
DEC 8th
TREE HUGGERS
CELEBRATION OF THE OAK
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
At LSU Hilltop Arboretum, learn how to protect and celebrate one of the most important members of the plant kingdom: the mighty oak. Delve into the ecology and history of native oak trees, learning from experts how to care for them—and make sure to check out the crafts and activities for the littles. Books,
be included with registration. 1 pm–4 pm. $20 Hilltop members; $25 nonmembers; Free for children under 12. lsu. edu/hilltop. 1
DEC 17th - DEC 22nd
MUSICALS THE CHER SHOW
New Orleans, Louisiana
Telling the story of pop culture icon Cher is no small undertaking. But this Tony-Award-winning musical has done the work, packing in thirty-five smash hits, six decades of stardom, two rockstar husbands, a Grammy, an Oscar, an Emmy, and tons of Bob Mackie gowns. See the story come to get-up-and-dance life at the Saenger this December. Performances at 7:30 pm Tuesday–Thursday; 8 pm Friday & Saturday with a 2 pm Saturday matinee; and 1 pm and 6:30 pm on Sunday. Tickets start at #35. saengernola.com. 1
DEC 18th
MUSICALS
CHICAGO
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Don't miss this one-night-only performance of CHICAGO, the musical tale of nightclub dancer Roxie Hart who murders her lover
and seeks to avoid conviction by creating sensational headlines. Set in the decadent glitz of the 1920s, the story has long captured audiences with its high-energy performances and dance numbers. 7:30 pm. $49–$85. theatre.raisingcanesrivercenter.com. 1
DEC 26th - JAN 5th
THEATRE
POTTED POTTER: THE UNAUTHORIZED HARRY EXPERIENCE—
A PARODY BY DAN AND JEFF Metairie, Louisiana
Serving up a laughing potion for the ages, Daniel Clarkson and Jefferson Turner's critically acclaimed parody of the Harry Potter series is coming to the stage at the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. Two shows per day; 2 pm and 8 pm on weekdays; 5 pm and 8 pm on Saturday; 2 pm and 5 pm on Sunday. Tickets start at $80. jeffersonpac.com. 1
For more events, visit countryroadsmag.com/ events-and-festivals.
FORAGING
An Evergreen Parasite, Sitting in a Tree
FOLLOWING THE DRUIDS INTO THE CHACAHOULA SWAMP
Story by Samantha E. Krieger
Imagine: Mr. Gary—your friend’s dad—picks you up from school wearing his Santa hat, red scarf, and white shrimp boots. He passes around hot chocolate and raccoon pelt hats to fend off the wet chill of a Louisiana December. We’re going on a mistletoe hunt.
Between renditions of Christmas carols, Mr. Gary recounts the Druids’ tradition, as told by the Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder. Wearing white robes, the Druids would go out into the forest during the winter solstice, hoist each other up into the trees, and throw the mistletoe down onto white sheets of snow. Though this ritual is associated with paganism, it has since been co-opted into the Christmas tradition.
For miles, you study the sparse treetops for those outof-place green clumps. Water oaks and elms are mistletoe’s favorites. You and your friends tumble out of the car into Chacahoula Swamp. Deer rustle in the brush, woodpeckers cry, and bald eagles soar overhead. Gazing into the treetops, Mr. Gary lays out the rules.
“Most people bring a shotgun and shoot it out of the tree, which works. But then, you get mistletoe with holes in it, and it’s loud,” he says. “I like to come and be quiet like a bobcat. I kind of revere the woods. I think it’s a little more peaceful and a little more reverent if you don’t use a shotgun. Oftentimes, if you see mistletoe high in a tree, you can also find it low in a tree so it doesn’t have to be shot out.” Sometimes you can reach it by climbing, he goes on, but other times you can use a pole saw.
When the first clump of mistletoe falls to the ground, you inspect it more closely: it has the iconic white berries—“more potent for kissing,” according to Mr. Gary. Indeed, the evergreen mistletoe symbolizes fertility, and its white berries—slimy to the touch—were a sign of virility for the Druids, likely reminding them of spermatozoa. Mistletoe was considered sacred, indicative of a bountiful spring harvest following harsh winters.
You place your bounty in the ice chest in the back of the pickup. Later, you’ll tie your cuttings together to deliver to your loved ones for the holidays.
But in the meantime, Wilson’s Kountry Korner store in Schriever is a great place to grab a poboy.
Dr. Gary LaFleur, a biology professor at Nicholls State University, where he is also the Director of the Center for Bayou Studies, often took me on these adventures when I was growing up.
“I’ve always been a collector from the woods,” he told me when I recalled these trips with him recently. “During Christmas, they sell plastic mistletoe at the stores, and that just seems terrible and fake. We have all this mistletoe that’s free: all you gotta do is go get it. That’s kinda what I love about foraging.”
Mistletoe is an evergreen plant, though it’s easier to harvest in the cooler months because it is more visible in trees whose leaves have fallen. Though native to Louisiana, some consider mistletoe an invasive species given its classification as a chlorophyllous hemiparasite. This means that while mistletoe can perform some photosynthesis on its own, it also depends on a host tree to supply additional water and nutrients
“[Mistletoe] has to bore into the branch … its root has to push through the bark of the tree in order to tap into the tree’s [vascular] system,” LaFleur explained.
In an article on the subject published by the LSU AgCenter, Robert J. Souvestre writes, “This parasite can stress trees, especially in times of drought, and can kill branches they are growing on if the tree is in a weakened state of health brought on by environmental conditions or construction activity… Even on healthy trees, mistletoe can be bad because it adds additional weight and mass to the tree branch. Branches containing mistletoe can become weaker in strength, which increases the potential for structural failure from wind or weight.”
For this reason, despite its popularity during Christmastime, the plant tends to be considered a “harbinger of unhealth in the forest,” according to LaFleur.
If mistletoe grows in one of your trees, you have few options. Pruning the mistletoe itself or cutting the entire infected tree limb are short-term fixes, but once the seed germinates, a root-like haustoria develops that enables it to regrow. Birds will also spread the seeds.
“In some winters, when it’s hard for a bird to find some seeds, mistletoe berries become an important food item,” LaFleur explained. According to Souvestre, “birds wipe their beaks onto tree branches to remove the sticky seed. In doing so, they spread mistletoe from branch to branch and tree to tree.”
“The best advice is to maintain tree health by watering in the absence of adequate rainfall,” Souvestre said. This makes the tree less vulnerable to the stresses brought on by the mistletoe.
The tradition that those caught under hanging mistletoe are expected to kiss originated as part of Norse mythology. “It is a tricky rule,” said LaFleur. “Something like, with each kiss, the kisser could take a white berry. Once all the white berries had been picked, then the mistletoe had no more kisses to of-
The kissing part of the ritual is wholly optional, in LaFleur’s book on the tradition. When he delivers his bounty to friends and family come Christmastime—often wearing a Santa hat like Father Christmas himself, he typically hangs it up and says, “Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions!” or, “Mistletoe.com has a delivery for ya!”
“Foraging for mistletoe was fun for us as kids, and as an adult, I can see that we were shepherds of an ancient tradition—one that shouldn’t be forgotten or replaced by plastic,” said LaFleur’s daughter, Hannah. “The tradition connects us to our community, our environment, and our past, and it was a really
Lauren Richard, another childhood friend who accompanied us on these expeditions, also recalls those memories fondly. “It was never really about the mistletoe,” she said. “In fact, when people would ask where he found all this mistletoe every year, you’d always get a ‘I can’t tell you, but I can show you!’ from Mr. Gary. It was about creating these magical little childhood moments for us—about spending time together and cultivating a joy of Christmas within us
Dr. Gary Lafleur, decked out and ready for his annual mistletoe hunt in the Chacahoula Swamp. Photo by Samantha E. Krieger.
Preparing Your Own Feast of the Seven Fishes Meal
For aspirational hosts hoping to prepare their first Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner this year, here are a few things to consider:
• A Feast of the Seven Fishes, with its seven courses, can be quite elaborate, but much of the meal is prepared ahead of time—allowing the host a better chance to sit and enjoy the meal with their guests rather than remaining trapped in the kitchen.
• While tradition is to serve the meal on Christmas Eve, there is no hard and fast rule—it is perfectly acceptable to host the meal anytime during the holidays that works best for your schedule.
• Seven courses require a lot of dishware. Do a quick inventory to make sure you have enough dishes to serve each person seven courses. If your good china won’t stretch that far, it’s fine to fill in with plain white dishes or even glass plates. These can be purchased inexpensively at big box discount stores. Or start going to estate sales with the recipes you plan to serve in mind.
• Seven courses is a lot of food. Serving sizes can be much smaller than a normal meal. You don’t want folks to get filled up by the fourth course.
HOLIDAY BANQUETS
The Feast of the Seven Fishes
A BELOVED, AND DELICIOUS, ITALIAN-AMERICAN TRADITION
Story by Susan Marquez
seven bountiful seafood-centric courses served at a dining room table surrounded by family and friends. This is the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
What began as an ancient Roman Catholic tradition of eating fish on Christmas Eve has become a much-anticipated holiday happening for many families, even beyond the Italian culture.
Why seven? The number seven is connected to many Catholic symbols: seven sacraments, seven days of the Creation, seven deadly sins, and thus seven courses.
Why fish? Traditionally, Catholics have abstained from meat and dairy products on the eve of certain holidays, including Christmas. The Feast of the Seven Fishes, then called “la vigilia,” first emerged in Italy as a means to honor family, friends, and home while also celebrating the sea, which plays a major role in Southern Italian cuisine.
Michel Di Giovine, a professor of anthropology at West Chester University of Pennsylvania, summed up the meal by saying the feast is a “four- to-five-hour affair of eating, involving a highly standardized procession of multiple seafood-based courses and an equally ritualized method of consumption that is punctuated by only brief
periods of repose.” In other words, you eat a lot of food
When Italians immigrated to America in large numbers in the late ninetenth and twentieth centuries, the Feast of the Seven Fishes became more prominent in the United States than it ever did in Italy, perhaps because Italian immigrants wanted desperately to hold on to their traditions in the face of American assimilation.
Today, the Feast of the Seven Fishes remains popular in parts of the country with large Italian-American populations, and New Orleans is no exception. As the tradition has been passed on and grown, it has jumped outside the circle of Catholic Italian communities. The feast is especially popular in Southern coastal states where fresh seafood is abundantly available. In New Orleans, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is an opportunity to elevate food common to the area into a meaningful celebration.
Nick Lama is a New Orleans-born and -raised third-generation Sicilian American and the owner/chef at Avo, a regional Italian restaurant on Magazine Street. “My family was in the seafood business for a long time, and I love seafood,” he said. “I grew up with Italian women who prepared the Feast of the Seven Fishes. My grandmother always made oyster and artichoke soup two or three days before Christmas. It’s one of my favorite childhood memories.”
• It’s never too early to contact your fishmonger. Be sure you purchase your seafood from someone you trust. And while you can get much, if not most, of the seafood you will need at your local supermarket, it won’t hurt to put in your order ahead of time.
• Finally, enjoy yourself. It isn’t a race. This meal is meant to be savored. Family and friends around the table are a blessing. This is a time to enjoy good food, and even more important, good company. It’s a time to remember those no longer at the table. Remember the good times. Laugh. Be in the moment. The dirty dishes can wait. (Pro-tip: hire someone to wash dishes after each course, and the kitchen will be clean the next morning. It’s so worth it.)
If that all sounds like too much work, it may be worth heading to a local Italian restaurant that presents a Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner during the holidays. “We have been doing it at Avo since we opened in 2015,” said Lama. “We missed a year or two during Covid, but people started asking about it so we brought it back.”
Lama serves the Feast of the Seven Fishes throughout December. “I love doing it,” he said. “I grew up here, and I’m proud of that. I’m also proud that the dinner is a blend of my Italian heritage and an homage to my family who worked in the seafood business. It gives me a lot of joy to share that history with others.”
Instead of the traditional seven courses, Lama incorporates seven types of seafood into three courses. “That’s more manageable for most people.” He starts with an antipasta. “This year I’m doing my grandmother’s oyster and artichoke soup, but I’m adding crabmeat.” The entrée will be Gulf fish in pasta, plus clams and mussels. The meal concludes with a dessert.
Another New Orleans restaurant participating in the tradition this year is Gianna—which will be serving a family-style Feast of the Seven Fishes Dinner in four courses on December 11 and 18.
Create Your Own Feast
Course One: Appetizer
This can be as simple as boiled peel-and-eat shrimp with cocktail sauce. (Protip: have the shrimp steamed at the grocery store. All you will have to do is spread them out on a platter, pour a bowl of your favorite cocktail sauce, and garnish with cut lemons and parsley.)
Another quick and easy favorite is smoked tuna dip, which can also be purchased at specialty food stores or some grocery stores. Serve with fancy crackers.
Course Two: Salad
A fresh salad prepared with butter lettuce and cherry tomatoes, topped with lump crab meat and a light vinaigrette, will look like Christmas on a plate. Green, red, and white are also reminiscent of the colors in the Italian flag. Salads can be pre-plated, with vinaigrette added just before serving.
Course Three: Fish Stew
Another dish you can prepare ahead. The base for most soups and stews can be frozen well before the day of the feast. Just before dinner, pull the thawed base out of the fridge and pop on the stove before you serve the appetizers. Add fresh seafood, and by the time the salad is finished, the stew will be warm and ready to ladle into bowls. Sprinkle with fresh herbs (parsley will do) for garnish. Serve with crusty bread.
Course Four: Pasta
This is an Italian tradition, after all. Most Feasts of the Seven Fishes have pasta dishes in common. Linguine with clam sauce is an ideal dish to serve at the Feast. Other options are seafood spaghetti marinara, or scallop and shrimp pasta.
Course Five: Meaty Fish Dish
Serving the whole fish, head, and tail intact, signifies abundance. This will also be the true centerpiece of the meal, and one of the more memorable dishes of the evening. Snapper, salmon, trout, or bass all work well for a dish that will look impressive on a platter.
Course Six: A Palate Cleanser
The tradition is to serve a bright lemon sorbet. This can also be scooped into serving dishes before the meal and tucked into the freezer. Be sure to remove from the freezer prior to serving the fifth course so that the sorbet will be soft and creamy.
Course Seven: Dessert
Tiramisu is an obvious choice. It’s Italian. It can be made ahead. It is light and delicious. Make it seasonal with pumpkin and gingersnap. Other dessert choices are a panettone, or creamy panna cotta topped with a drizzle of chocolate ganache and a sprinkling of slivered almonds.
Oyster & Artichoke Soup
Courtesy of Chef Nick Lama, Avo, New Orleans
Ingredients
1/2 gallon fresh oysters with their liquid reserved
2 14-oz cans of artichokes, pulsed in a food processor
1 1/2 onions, finely chopped
5 cloves of garlic, minced
1 cup celery, chopped fine
1/2 cup green bell peppers, chopped fine
1/2 cup leeks, chopped fine
1/2 cup butter
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 gallon chicken stock or vegetable stock
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup white wine
1/4 cup sherry
1 bay leaf
10 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Crabmeat to garnish
Instructions
1. Strain the oysters, collecting the liquid in a bowl. Set aside in the refrigerator.
2. In a large stockpot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onions, garlic, celery, green bell peppers, and leeks. Cook until softened, about 10-15 minutes.
3. Sprinkle flour over the cooked vegetables. Stir continuously for about 5 minutes to create a roux. Add the white wine and sherry, cook for 5 minutes. Gradually pour in the chicken or vegetable stock while stirring to avoid lumps. Add the strained oyster liquid, white wine, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30-40 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld.
4. Add the chopped artichokes and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes.
5. Gently stir in the reserved oysters and heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for an additional 10-15 minutes.
6. Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Garnish each serving with chopped fresh parsley and crabmeat.
A spread from the traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner, served at Avo New Orleans throughout the month of December. Images courtesy of Chef Nick Lama.
Chef Nick Lama's Oyster Artichoke Soup, a recipe that his Sicilian grandmother traditionally served at Feasts of the Seven Fishes throughout his childhood.
AIRWAVES
Broadcasting From the Heart of Louisiana
ACADIANA'S VOICE, COMING THROUGH LOUD AND CLEAR
Story by Catherine Comeaux • Photos by Joseph Vidrine
Thwo thousand miles from my home in South Louisiana, in a North Dakota campground surrounded by bison quietly munching prairie grasses, a man called out to me in a French accent, “You know KRVS?!”
Excited to spot “KRVS 88.7 FM—Radio Acadie” emblazoned on my T-shirt, this Baton Rouge French immersion teacher from France and I connected over our mutual affection for the small college radio station, which is a dedicated curator of the multifaceted, French-flavored culture of South Louisiana and an invaluable asset of the University of Louisiana at Lafayette.
A Distinct Sound
Beginning as a small student-run radio station in 1963 with a six-block broadcasting reach, KRVS now lures zydeco enthusiasts from coast to coast and French teachers from France via live streaming at krvs.org and the smart phone app. The non-profit media organization is run by five staff members along with countless student and community volunteers. Like the culture it transmits, it has undergone a series of changes—continuously improving its programming while broadening its reach and maintaining its roots in the community.
Today, the National Public Radio-affiliated music station plays Cajun, zydeco, blues, jazz, swamp pop, and myriad variations between, within, and beyond these genres. Cypress Lake Studios—the station’s onsite recording studio named for the adjacent bison wallow turned swampland—provides a space for musicians and university students to learn the skills involved in making a quality recording.
The station is distinctive in carrying twenty-five hours, often more, of locally produced French language programming weekly. For over forty years, the weekday morning show Bonjour Louisiane has been waking people up with news and music tout en Français Louisiane (all in Louisiana French). Saturday mornings are sacred to zydeco enthusiasts who tune in to Zydeco Est Pas Sale to hear DJs John Broussard, “JB,” and Melvin Caesar, “MC” share music, community news, and spontaneous lessons in Creole French.
“I love and care about this station because it’s like no other,” gushed General Manager Cheryl Devall, “Where else can you hear anything like the by-play of JB and MC? They’re like a comedy team.”
During their four-hour show, the two gentlemen move gracefully between covering their playlist, telling
stories, and calling on folks to be peaceable with their standard reminder, “Now, if you’re out on the dance floor this weekend and someone steps on your foot, don’t get mad, just say, ‘Excuse me for putting my foot under your foot’ and keep dancing.”
Devall, a journalist and former NPR correspondent who worked all over the United States before accepting her position at KRVS said, “Life, work, school has taken me many places, but there’s no place like here. In many areas regional culture has been homogenized out. Sure, people may dance the polka, but only on special occasions. Here the music and social dance traditions are not just for tourists—they spring from the culture of exiled people who miss where they’re from, living in isolation, having to make their own fun.”
Cultural Curator
As it became an NPR affiliate in the mid-1970s—bringing national news programming to local radio—KRVS continued to broadcast area news, weather, and music in Louisiana French, playing a major role in the regional French language renaissance of the late seventies/early eighties in South Louisiana. Decades prior, Louisiana French-speaking World War II veterans had learned the value of bilingualism but, nonetheless, regional French with its unique pronunciations and words was still trying to shake its reputation as being “broken.”
Megan Brown Constantin, Assistant General Manager at KRVS and professor of Cajun and Creole vocals in ULL’s Traditional Music Program, pointed out, “By KRVS broadcasting in Louisiana French and Creole, it validated to everybody that this is a real language because they’d heard it on the radio! KRVS showed them the value in their language and music.”
KRVS, along with organizations like the Council for the Development of French in Louisiana (CODOFIL), encouraged and provided the means for new generations to learn the language, but, Constantin asks, “What good is it to teach French if there is nowhere to use it— what are we saving the language for?”
She considers this one of the main questions of another linguistic renaissance happening today—one that finds young French speakers like Colby LeJeune continuing the legacy of the Bonjour Louisiane radio program, and former KRVS host Drake Leblanc co-founding Télé-Louisiane—a multi-lingual media platform. Countless others answer the question with their work, films, poetry, music, and theatrical productions tout en français and KRVS then helps share it all with the world.
Ever Evolving
Maintaining a worldwide reach relevant to today’s rapidly evolving media landscape is a challenge KRVS has met by keeping abreast of emerging technologies. When online streaming became available in the early 2000s, KRVS began attracting a worldwide audience of listeners wanting to learn more about what they were hearing, seeing, and reading at krvs.org.
Chief Engineer Kris Wotipka has guided the station in expanding its presence on the radio dial by adding two subchannels via the technology of high-definition radio: student-led Kampus FM at HD2 and public media news and information at HD3.
Devall noted that most NPR affiliates nationwide have shifted to news and information. While KRVS remains a music station, the addition of HD3 allows it to simultaneously satisfy the demand for more news.
While students have been a part of the station since its inception, Kampus FM gives them a blank slate of 24/7 programming to fill—allowing the station to act simultaneously as a playground and training ground within the well-established reputation their predecessors began over sixty years ago.
Wotipka has enjoyed hearing the results of handing
Cecil Doyle, KRVS's Music Director.
HD2 over to the students, “It’s fun; it’s youthful,” he said. “Our traditional listeners are finding it and giving great feedback.” Listeners who explore the subchannel online at kampusfm.krvs.org or via the app will find student-produced music, videos, and live recordings while they get a taste for how artists like xelA7th (pronounced ex-el-uhseventh) and The Fizgigs are using KRVS and sites around campus as their backdrop for creativity and exploration.
ULL’s Chief Strategy Officer Kristi Anderson spoke about the importance of KRVS to the university: “Every college and program can find ways to connect with KRVS, and many already have. For example, the College of the Arts, the Center for Louisiana Studies, and the College of Liberal Arts all have a strong presence at the station. And with their ability to pass along information, KRVS also works with the Office of Communication and Marketing, Office of Environmental Health and Safety, and even UL Police Department. The beauty of KRVS is that its airwaves are open and welcoming to all.”
World Cafe
"BY KRVS BROADCASTING IN LOUISIANA FRENCH AND CREOLE, IT VALIDATED TO EVERYBODY THAT THIS IS A REAL LANGUAGE BECAUSE THEY’D HEARD IT ON THE RADIO! KRVS SHOWED THEM THE VALUE IN THEIR LANGUAGE AND MUSIC.”
—MEGAN BROWN CONSTANTIN
Since the Fall of 2024, KRVS has been partnering with World Café —a nationally syndicated radio show with over a half a million listeners on 285 stations—for the Acadiana Music Showcase. During its thirty-three years in production, World Café has become the go-to show for music promoters looking to book bands for festivals and concerts.
“The partnership has allowed the station to reach beyond the converted while giving bands a platform outside of the local listenership,” said Constantin, who went on to explain how KRVS has encouraged all local musicians—not just the Cajun and Zydeco standbys—to apply. Three different acts are recorded each month, of which World Café selects one to air.
Amanda Sphar, the lead vocalist of the Lafayette soft rock band, Kid Charleroi, who recorded a session at KRVS in October for its partnership with World Café.
the in-real-life community at the heart of the KRVS culture—where you can visit with a DJ at a local festival, or stop in at the station during a fundraiser to share a link of boudin with a musician. • krvs.org.
Megan Brown Constantin, Assistant General Manager at KRVS, and host of "Encore with Megan Constantin" on Sundays—which showcases music from Archives of Cajun and Creole Folklore housed at the University of Louisiana of Lafayette's Center for Louisiana Studies.
CULINARY EXPERIENCES
The Holy Hang
C. STEVENS' APPROACH TO OPEN FIRE COOKING IS INFUSED WITH ENCHANTMENT
When Mark C. Stevens hosts a barbecue, the food is merely—well okay, vitally—a tool for the thing he’s truly trying to foster: human connection. The spectacle of entire chickens, pineapples, cabbages, and fish heads hanging above a roaring fire is just one piece of the tableau, which includes the ancestrally familiar scent of the smoke, the comfort of the heat, the mesmerizing draw of the flickering flame, and the sense of communion between the fellow humans that surround it. “You can see it in people’s eyes,” said Stevens, who is a world traveler, fire cook, and filmworker. “You can just see this sense of pure wonder.”
It's a sensation he experienced himself years ago, while hiking the backcountry of Argentina. In between treks, during which they’d hardly eat anything, he and his posse would come out of the woods and fuel themselves with massive banquets of barbecue and steak. “It was true feast or famine,” said Stevens. At one point, some Argentinian friends invited them to their home for a meal. When they arrived, the scents of the cooking food were coming from fires set in pits dug into the ground. “It was really rustic, and people were, like, putting food in our mouths with their hands, like ‘try this,’” recalls Stevens. It conjured memories of camping with his family as a young boy, eating in a circle around a fire. “It reminded me of how much can be done on the fire, cooking-wise, and the vibe it creates,” he said. “Just the communal aspect of being around a fire and eating the things that come off of it—this primal, rustic energy that it creates. And I felt impassioned to keep exploring that.”
The following summer, he returned home to New Orleans and bought a backyard fire pit. Almost every weekend, he and his friends would set up at one of their houses and invite whoever was around to come over, and to bring something to cook. “We never knew what was going to show up,” he said. It might be a pumpkin, or a steak or a chicken; occasionally, somebody’s old vegetables, or ducks their dad went out and shot. “And we would just look at each other, start a fire, and figure out how to cook it.” The sense of surprise and experimentation of that summer fueled Stevens’ growing infatuation with fire.
“Fire cooking has been around for hundreds of years,” he said, reflecting on what continues to enchant him about this approach to cuisine. “And every culture
MARK
Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot • Photos by Jess Kearney
has some sort of fire cooking, every single one. Pick a place, and at some point, they said, ‘Hey, let’s heat this food up.’ Wherever you come from, our ancestors all did that at some point. You have this universal thing that everybody can claim, and nobody can claim as well.”
In 2017, Stevens was staying with friends in Vermont, working on completing his cookbook Cooking with Spices: 100 Recipes for Blends, Marinades, and Sauces from Around the World. As a thank you for allowing him to turn their back shed into a writing nook, he prepared one of his signature open fire barbecues. Wandering around the backyard, searching for the right place to set up, he noticed a beautiful tree overlooking a hill. “And that was sort of like the moment, ‘Oh we can hang stuff,’” he said.
The theatrical, altarlike effect of food hanging above a fire, for Stevens, elevated the already-holy experience all the more. “And I think that it’s also the best way to cook food, because the flavor doesn’t hit you in the face with smoke like a closed-smoke barbecue. Instead of making smoke the main character, open air, hanging barbecue complements— heightens—the flavor of the meat, or
Mallmann’s famous hanging dome— Stevens started experimenting. “It evolved from a tree branch to a metal bar, and then a three-pronged metal bar,” he said.
And then, in 2019, while he was producing a film, some of the special effects guys had gotten word of Stevens’s hobby. They asked him if he could build anything for his barbecue set up, what would it be? On the back of a script page, he sketched out his dream apparatus—a massive square “fire cage” with adjustable, swinging grills.
Two weeks later, the same guys dragged Stevens out to the parking lot, where they unveiled a real-life iteration of his fire cage fantasy. “Those guys were just working on this movie, and they had time to kill, and they had all this extra material,” he said. They told him that it was made from leftover speed rail from the Mission Impossible movie. Laughing, he admitted that he didn’t know if this was true. Regardless, he has remained eternally grateful, and the fire cage to this day remains at the center of his open fire experience.
Within the next year, Stevens had started hosting mini-fundraisers for local SOLD OUT LAST YEAR!
For the next four years, Stevens traveled back and forth every few months between New Orleans and Australia. When he was down under, he filled his time by hosting barbecues. “I really established a little fire community there,” he said. He’d charge just enough to cover the costs of his equipment and ingredients—relishing the opportunity to experiment with Australian cuisine and introduce New Orleans cuisine to the Australians. Barbecue shrimp and polenta, crocodile arms served like chicken wings, kangaroo legs. From the local fishmonger, he'd collect discarded tuna heads and tails— using the delicate, slow-smoked cheek meat to serve fish tacos. “The possibilities were endless,” he said.
In November 2023, Stevens and Kearney moved back to New Orleans full-time. With the film industry in shambles, he decided to go all-in with Open Fire Co., partnering with fellow Louisiana native Jake Williams to offer totally bespoke fire cuisine experiences in desti-
nations ranging from New Orleans courtyards to someone’s camp in the woods.
When Stevens and Williams arrive on location, they'll walk the area, looking for opportunities to integrate. “If we can use an old wagon wheel, or hang meat off of an awning or something to heighten the experience, we’ll do that,” said Stevens.
The site-specific approach is integral to the vision of Open Fire Co., which is inspired by biophilic design—a concept that aims to connect people to nature. “I want people to walk up to the location, see our set-up, and feel like it has always been there,” Stevens said. “The fire, the smoke, I want it to feel like something eternal. This feeling of total immersion in which whatever you can’t see around you doesn’t exist. Your emails and your phone, you don’t check because you forget about them.” Fire, after all, was something like the first screen, said Stevens. “It’s the thing we stared at.”
Over the past year, Open Fire Co. has cooked for fundraisers, weddings, birthday parties, and most recently, and most recently, staged an elaborate hang at the St. Francisville Food & Wine Festivals' BBQ & Bubbles event. “The good thing about doing this in Louisiana—” said Stevens, “it's not hard to convince people to spend all afternoon drinking and eating.”
The experience is about more than that, though, for Stevens. The greatest compliment people have offered him after hours spent around his fires is that, “This day was absolutely amazing. I will never forget this . . . and the food was also incredible.”
“They’re not even talking about the food first—and the food has to be fantastic for this to work, let me be clear—but they’re talking about something else,” said Stevens. “And like, what is that something else?” • openfireco.com.
Christmas
Christmas
Baton
Town
Gonzales
Winter
Scan
Soupçon
A DASH OF DINING NEWS
By CR Editorial Staff
Emeril goes back to his roots with new restaurant
On October 23, celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse—best known for his bold takes on New Orleans’s Creole cuisine—opened the doors to his most personal project yet. 34 Restaurant and Bar, named for his and his son EJ’s names (as the third and fourth Emeril Lagasse), reaches back into the chef’s personal history from before he became a Louisiana darling, to when he was eating his mother’s chourico mouro at dinner in the vibrant Portuguese-American community of Fall River, Massachusetts. The new restaurant on Baronne occupies the old A.D. Wynn Furniture showroom, which has been transformed into a stylized expression of Lagasse’s Portuguese-American culture, featuring a painting of the Portuguese symbol for good luck, a rooster at the door, and traditional Azulejos tiles throughout. Craftsmen from the home country were brought to New Orleans to help with the build, and a jamón master came to train the staff in the traditional preparation of the Spanish dry-cured ham—served at a special jamón bar (think oyster bar, but with ham). The restaurant also features a traditional Portuguese bakery onsite and a wood fire grill. The menu—led by chef de cuisine T.J. Lewis—is made up of dishes like seafood stew cataplana, piri piri chicken, and several family-style shared rice dishes. Lagasse has described the restaurant as something he’s dreamed of for a long time, a “love letter” to his ancestral home. 34restaurantandbar.com.
A New Orleans dinner series supporting Asheville’s restaurant scene
Knowing too well the long healing time required to recover from devastating storms, over twenty chefs from New Orleans’s restaurant scene have come together in support of our neighbors in Asheville, North Carolina—where the destruction of Hurricane Helene continues to impact the community.
Presenting a series of fundraising dinner experiences called Cooks for Carolina, our local restaurant industry invites the larger Louisiana community to offer solidarity while also celebrating the power of culinary culture. 100% of the proceeds from these events will go to the Always Asheville Fund, which helps support recovering hospitality businesses in Buncombe County by distributing emergency grants. On December 2, Chef Susan Spicer will present a dinner at Rosedale supported by Cathead Distillery and Inland Seafood, and Chef Justin Devillier will prepare a dinner at La Petite Grocery with Asheville Visiting Chef Peyton Barrell of Gourmand. Tickets typically start at $100. Learn more and donate at cooksforcarolina.com.
St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival Best of the Fest
Awards
At this year’s St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival held last month (the biggest ever, with more than twenty-five chefs), guests got the opportunity to vote for their favorite taste of the afternoon. This year’s third place winner was Chef Andrew Caskey of Bad Wolf BBQ food truck in downtown Ruston, whose self-taught style of craft barbecue is inspired by an immersive tour of Texas and its modern barbecue scene. At the festival, he served smoked brisket on a sweet potato with a signature sauce, pecan syrup, and fresh rosemary. In second place was Chef Eric Cook of Gris-Gris and Saint John in New Orleans—whose approach to New Orleans cuisine draws directly the simple cuisine of his childhood in Arabi. For the festival, he served oyster pie with Louisiana oysters in a double cream sauce with tarragon, potato purée, and herb breadcrumbs. And finally, our first place winner was St. Francisville’s own Chef Sarah Roland of Bayou Sarah Farms—who wowed guests with mozzarella made from the milk of her own water buffalos on sourdough crackers. Stay in the loop for next year’s festival at stfrancisvillefoodandwine.com.
Reveillon is upon us
In the traditionally Catholic city of New Orleans, Creole families since the 1800s have taken part in the tradition of midnight mass on Christmas Eve. Though some families still do worship late into the night on the holiday, many more have retained the celebratory culinary tradition that accompanied the mass itself: Reveillon dinners. Translating to “awakening” in French, Reveillon now refers to a late night breaking of the fast on Christmas Eve. Revived as a cultural tradition in New Orleans in the 1990s, Reveillon is now celebrated at many of the city’s most revered restaurants (and at more convenient times than 2 am). The special menus are typically inspired by traditional Creole cuisine, mixed in with holiday specialties. Participating restaurants this year include Antoine’s, Broussard’s, the Brennan restaurants, Jack Rose, and dozens more. See the whole list at holiday.neworleans.com. •
NEW RESTAURANTS
Catch a Flight with the Colonel
STORYTELLING AND SHORT RIBS REVIVE THE COLONEL'S CLUB UNDER THE OVERPASS
Story and photos by Lucie Monk Carter
Memorable characters have haunted the sprawling restaurant under the overpass that Baton Rougeans will know by different names. When it came time for the property’s latest tenants to choose a mascot around which to center a revitalization, I can’t be too offended that this creative writing major scratching out bad poetry while scarfing down beer and cheese fries with her collegiate friends at Chelsea’s Cafe lost out to an aviating colonel with a penchant for doberman pinschers.
The titular figure of the Colonel’s Club, which opened to the public earlier this fall, was also its original owner, dating back to 1936 before the overpass was even constructed. Over decades, Jesse Lee Sheppard, called “The Colonel” or “Shep,” operated the property as a private club in one evolution, and an airplane hangar (he flew Huey Long and Barry Seale), refrigeration school, and even a voting precinct in other iterations.
The property remains in the hands of his descendants, the Aucoin family, whose memories of Sheppard entranced
Jordan Piazza, the restaurateur behind the new Colonel’s Club. “When we started hearing their stories about the colonel,” said Piazza, “we just knew we had to build things around him.”
Sheppard’s biography bounces up against imagined affectations in the design choices of Tiek ByDay, the local interior design firm Piazza engaged to invigorate the club. Doberman pinscher figurines abound. The bookshelves in the lounge/bar area are fully stocked with leather-bound law texts Sheppard did not own nor very likely read, but the little silver photo frames hold his
real family portraits. The oil portraits on the wall are not his ancestors, but they do contribute to a clubby, refined atmosphere emphasized by the flame-licked logs in the large fireplace.
“I’m usually a micromanager,” said Piazza, “but here I knew the best thing to do was let Tiek run with it.”
In the main restaurant, distinct zones break up a once-cavernous space and embellish the colonel’s story further, one of flight, fancy, and exploration. The warmth of blush-toned walls and lantern light fixtures is balanced by the cool emerald tile of the curved bar.
Food, from the Colonel's Club menu, pictured, top: short rib bolognese; middle left: brussels sprouts with miso-honey butter; middle right: spicy shrimp Calabrese; bottom: The Italian sandwich.
Narrow booths in an intimate alcove call to mind a railway club car, insulating passengers from the outside world while carrying them someplace new. Elsewhere, slate-blue walls and caned chairs, harp-like chandeliers and little lamps on each table, and gorgeously textured contemporary art all tempt eyes and fingertips. It’s easy to forget that you came here to eat.
But that you can do, and not just on special occasions, or as the member of an exclusive club. “We want this to be a neighborhood place,” said Piazza. He’s betting on the walkability improvements envisioned for the Overpass neighborhood and indeed invested in building out some of the area’s master plan, including new sidewalks, lighting, and expanded parking, in the process of renovating the Colonel’s Club. Eventually, residents of the Poets Corner, Hundred Oaks, and Garden District Neighborhoods will be able to walk or pedal a route other than the current path on narrow raised sidewalks flanking the overpass bridge.
The menu is similarly accessible in scale and price point for any outing, from a group lunch to an anniversary meal. Initial concepts were developed
by Chef Jonathan Breaux, formerly of The Overpass Merchant, with further finessing delivered by Chef David Dickensauge, who remains on staff as a consulting chef. Dickensauge has worked around the world, from five-star restaurants in New York, to learning the art of the meatball in Italy. He’s been in the kitchens of numerous Baton Rouge restaurants, most recently Beausoleil, Pizza Art Wine, and Supper Club.
It’ll be hard to choose on the menu, but comforting to know you can return fairly often. You could go for the Richland Farm Bowl—named after the property’s historic identity predating the interstate and the colonel—and enjoy the nutritious benefits of its cauliflower, chickpeas, and brussels-and-kale slaw. There are a few nods to Piazza’s own heritage in The Italian sandwich and primi of burrata and meatballs. Global exploration hinted at by the finishes and furniture plays out in dishes like the Moroccan braised lamb shank, the spicy shrimp Calabrese, and the brussels sprouts with miso-honey butter, so addicting that I kept sneaking more. Even the short rib bolognese will tingle your tongue with a dash of Caribbean seasoning.
Piazza knows restaurants. As a kid, the best way he found quality time with his father Gus was at Phil’s Oyster Bar, which Gus purchased in 1975 and ran until 2007, when his declining health led him to close the business. On the oyster bar’s last night, one regular had forgotten to bring his wallet. Jordan, then in college, recalls telling the man not to worry about it. After all, the restaurant would be closing. A decade later, when Jordan and his brother Anthony sought to bring back their late father’s restaurant, Raising Cane’s founder Todd Graves had his recovered wallet ready to serve as an investor.
Piazza’s friendships with Graves and Walk-Ons co-founders Jack Warner and Brandon Landry have given him insight and direct job experience in fast-growing restaurant empires. At Colonel’s Club, you won’t find chicken tenders on the menu or a wall of TVs flashing touchdowns and box scores. But Piazza did glean ideas that translate into his restaurants’ cozier environments, from repetition and consistency to a teamwork mentality. “Both of those places just have a great culture. My takeaway was, you have to have a purpose, you’ve got to be passionate, and you’ve got to put together a good team. And another thing, both parties I believe spent the money to do it the right way, where other people might have cut corners. I think when you spend the money, it's a greater risk obviously. But they spend the money to make it something different. So, I think that's what we did here and that's why it's so far translated to success.” •
thecolonelsclub.com.
Short rib bolognese at The Colonel's Club.
NEW RESTAURANTS
Acamaya Awaits
A FRESH TAKE ON MEXICAN CULINARY TRADITION FROM THE CASTRO SISTERS
Story by Sophie Nau
Ana and Lydia Castro became nationally-recognized entities when hLengua Madre, their five-course Mexican tasting menu restaurant, made the New York Times Restaurant List in 2021. The restaurant then went on to receive nods from the James Beard Awards in 2022 and 2023. As a contemporary restaurant showcasing the finesse of Ana's cooking, Lengua Madre cut through the outer skin of Mexican cuisine to expose its many layers, something of a rarity in New Orleans.
When the restaurant closed its doors at the end of 2023, the Castro sisters had already announced their new venture, which opened its doors earlier this summer and has already met the bar set by its predecessor, making the 2024 New York Times Restaurant List, as well as being named one of the "14 Best New Restaurants in America" by Eater
Acamaya, located in the Bywater, is a more expansive concept, allowing for greater exploration of the cuisine Ana and Lydia grew up eating in Mexico City.
“Lengua was running at its capacity,” Ana told me when I sat down with her and Lydia. “There’s one menu and we do it. And that was really great for me as a chef to solidify what my vision around food was. We had the opportunity to tell that story with Lengua Madre. [Then I thought], ‘I need to expand. I want to grow.’”
Talking to the Castro sisters, like with any close siblings, one becomes immersed in their sibling shorthand. It’s not unlike kitchen-speak, though less aggressive. The sisters are in tune—one need only to say a word and the other knows exactly to what she is referring. They pipe in to fill in gaps of each other’s stories and narrate chapters of the other’s life.
At Acamaya, Ana helms the seafood-centric menu while Lydia manages the front-of-house operations, a synergistic approach they developed after both moving to New Orleans. Upon graduating high school in Mexico City, Lydia moved to the city and fell hard and fast. Ana moved down after a five-year run working in New York restaurants.
One day, when Lydia went to pick Ana up from the restaurant she was cooking at, she was pulled in to help out during a Jazz Fest rush. The management asked Lydia if she knew how to run food—she didn’t, but she hopped in, and soon after was hired as a regular employee.
It was an eye-opening shift: “I loved working with my sister. I loved working in the restaurant industry, and hospitality in general,” Lydia said.
If Lengua Madre was about introducing the Castros’ vision for contemporary Mexican food to the South, Acamaya extends the invitation. Gone is the tasting menu, and in its place are shareable plates that highlight the regional styles of Mexican seafood and honor the bounty of ingredients and techniques that have put traditional Mexican cuisine on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In her approach, Ana sources seafood from the Gulf and gives it the “Mexico City” treatment, inspired by childhood trips to the city’s seafood market, La Nueva Viga Market (one of the largest in the world).
“My grandpa used to take us as special treats on Sundays to eat the seafood [at the market],” Ana said. “In Mexico City, the seafood restaurants are very contemporary in the sense that they have regional seafood from all around the country. You get a little bit of everything in one restaurant, which is really interesting. I think that's just the nature of being the capital.”
A culinary historian could have a field day with the Acamaya menu, with its printed glossary on the back, explaining lesser-known, and often Indigenous, ingredients like chileatole (a masa-thickened chile sauce) or sikil p’aak (a Mayan tomato and seed spread), and their Mexican states of origin. Lydia and Ana knew that to some, having reading material at the table was a big ask, but they hope the glossary might help to break up the idea of monolithic Mexican cuisine. Still, they were prepared for the few, but memorable, customers who were shocked by the lack of chimichangas or taquitos at Lengua Madre (“The crab claws lady,” Ana referenced to Lydia in Castro parlance).
Lydia and Ana Castro, who together helm one of New Orleans's and America's hottest new restaurants, Acamaya—where they share the traditional cuisine of their home, Mexico City.
Photos by Denny Culbert, courtesy of Lydia and Ana Castro.
“The only way that I am going to change the perception of Mexican food in the South is by gracefully sharing knowledge,” Ana said.
"This is Mexican food, but there are no enchiladas,” said Lydia. “This is Mexican food, and it's different. And you're going to like it, and it's going to be delicious.”
Most newcomers are eager and curious, and Lydia and Ana encourage any questions. Lydia makes it a point to talk to tables looking over the glossary, introducing herself and opening up the conversation about the menu.
The Castro sisters hope the Gulf-caught seafood will bridge the traditions of Louisiana with that of Mexico. After all, both communities enjoy the bounty of the same body of water. But primarily, the dishes of Aca-
maya harken to regions across Mexico, and more specifically, the varied joys of eating across the country: the crisped-up cheese that lines the shrimp costra taco, a popular late night snack across Mexico City; the capers and olives in the sauce for the Veracruz-inspired flounder (blackened, Southern-style); and lesser known preparations of well-trodden masa, like the chochoyotes cooked with chanterelle, crab, and a corn beurre blanc. The result of this last dish is belly-warming satisfaction, a counterbalance to the cold hamachi and tuna tostadas, aguachile, and oysters fresh from the Gulf—which pair well with tangy cocktails like the Tamarind sour or classic margarita.
The format allows for ample opportunities to sample Ana’s creative preparations. The crab sope, with mayo
spiced with chiltepin (dried chiles from Sonora and Sinoloa), thinly sliced cucumber and onion, and thick-cut avocado, is a party-starting bite. And though seafood is the star, the sides hold their weight. The bowl of ayocote beans, a meaty type of bean topped with queso fresco and crema, is perhaps the Platonic ideal of braised beans: comforting and hearty, with geometrically broken epazote leaves sprinkled on top giving the beans a touch of the herbaceous.`
When the Castro sisters found the Bywater space where Acamaya now lives, it was not immediately obvious how a restaurant was going to take shape inside.
“I am, as Ana would say, cynical and very to the point,” Lydia said. When she saw the property, she said, “I can't see it.”
“She's unable to be moved by beauty and small pleasures,” Ana quipped, smiling.
“It's true. It's true.”
But the sisters found inspiration for the build-out in their native Mexico City. They explained, in the ping-ponging way that they do, how the components took shape. In Mexico, Ana found light fixtures made with the same stone used for molcajetes, molinos, and tahonas (respectively: the tools used to make salsa, to grind corn, and to crush agave for mezcal and tequila).
Lydia and the lamp seller proceeded to have a yearlong email thread to arrange the sale and transportation, getting them U.L. listed and working with brokers to get them into the United States.
As Lydia explained the lengthy process, Ana cut in:
“But it’s not just a lamp, it’s a piece of art by a Mexican designer.”
“That same story happened with the tables, the chairs, the tile…” Lydia said.
“The plates, the breeze blocks,” Ana finished. The breeze blocks they ordered from the concrete capital of Monterrey, with Ana picking up the palettes herself at the Texas border.
“It all came from Mexico,” Lydia said, “and it all had to go through a broker. It all had to go through like 25,000 [logistical] emails.”
The result is a festive space, hued with pink walls reminiscent of the Jose Luis Barragan’s Casa Pedregal. The seventy-seat dining room is ensconced in the breeze blocks, which pattern buildings and kitchen interiors
of Mexico City. And the communal tables have already brought diners together. One recent evening, Lydia sat two men dining solo, one with his book, the other with the New York Times, at the communal table, and by the end of the meal they were chatting and dining together with their reading material shoved to the wayside.
This openness extends to the kitchen, where Ana can be found cooking on the line, just barely removed from the tables. With a soundtrack of Latin pop (Bad Bunny, Rosalía) interspersed with classic rancheras and bandas, the overall impression is being invited into a Castro sister party, where Mexico City and New Orleans mingle in spirit and on the plate. •
acamayanola.com.
Outdoors
'Tis the Season for Citrus
By Jess Cole
Amost beloved tradition of winter in southern Louisiana is the harvest and consumption of our diverse citrus array.
‘Tis the season for citrus everything—freshly squeezed hsatsuma juice for breakfast, lemon tarts for dessert, blood orange margaritas and, assuredly, pocketfuls of calamondins or kumquats at the ready. The pandemonium is elaborately displayed around the holidays in bulbous hues of light yellow and delicate pinks, in every size from a quarter dollar to a softball. A friend in Texas says she “knows a lady” with the sweetest lemons she ever tasted, and they are the size of an adult head. You hear such lore, often, surrounding the topic of citrus.
I once met a fellow grower from up north who visited Louisiana, one time, twenty years ago. He was blown away by the mere fact that we could grow citrus—thinking it as something exotic—and was completely beholden to the most stellar sweet and sour gem of all, our satsuma tree. He said that before this visit, he had never heard of this tree in his entire life. I have always loved my citrus, but in that moment, he helped me understand how special it actually is to be able to grow these fruits. It's always the friends not from here that remind me how tropical our gardens can be and how lucky we are for it.
Like so many traditions in Louisiana, citrus also finds its history intertwined with the French. Father Paul du Ru from Normandy, France was chosen by Pierre Le Moyne, Sieur d’Iberville to accompany him on his second journey to Louisiana. It was during that time that the Jesuit priest planted the first orange seeds south of New Orleans. Within a few decades a petite industry was booming, and over the next hundreds of years came dozens of exotic varieties and new cultivars, accumulating into our bounty today. OUR SUSTAINABLE GARDEN
Managing Pesky (not so) Pests
Citrus trees are a host plant to the giant swallowtail butterfly. If you see someone is eating away at your citrus foliage, they are most likely a swallowtail in its larval (feeding) stage. Don’t remove them, and if possible, avoid using chemical pesticides. You are doing these stunning insects a grand favor by letting them host on your tree, increasing their chances of survival significantly. And you are doing yourself a grand favor if you enjoy the beauty and pollination these butterflies offer to our environment. Most often, the tree is left undamaged and its fruit supply untouched. Young trees tend to be most affected with their minimal foliage to feast on, but usually bounce back the following growing season.
Another common “pest” to citrus are “Citrus Leaf Miners.” These guys cause a lot of people stress, but are actually just other caterpillars, soon to be small nocturnal moths. They hail from the continent of Asia, like their host plants. Again, on a more mature citrus specimen, the damage done by these guys is typically little, if any. Newer plantings can suffer more. Perhaps take extra care
in those early years as needed, then allow your citrus to flourish and interact with the natural world in all its serendipity. Again, using pesticides to approach this problem can be detrimental to the environment, only to solve a non-issue.
How to Treat Leaf Curl
If you are observing the leaves of your citrus trees curling up, usually it means there is some unmet need. It could point to environmental issues, pests, diseases, or harmful maintenance practices.
In my personal gardening career, I find leaf curl is most often the distress response of overwatering. Louisiana is a place where overwatering can be as detrimental as underwatering. Proper soil nutrition has the power to help control disease and pests, drought, ph levels, and so on. An active soil is a healthy soil.
Planting and Pruning Citrus
I believe, ultimately, there are no rules when it comes to pruning or planting, but I would say that December through early spring is ideal for planting citrus. Planting and
Photo by Jackson Hill.
pruning in the dead of winter, before any new flush of foliar growth, is ideal for any tree, as the plant is largely dormant and suffers little transplanting/root pruning stress. You will not see tons of foliar growth, but the roots are establishing rapidly, and come spring, the plant is ready to pop off.
Protecting Citrus from the Cold
As our climate is changing with what seems like more summer droughts and more intense cold snaps, coupled with intense natural disasters, citrus growing in Louisiana is not necessarily becoming easier. Where I live in St. Francisville, I have just about given up growing most citrus, aside from my kumquats and calamondins; these trees seem to be my most cold hardy, returning each year and still bearing fruit. For those of us who can grow many citrus varieties, cold protection is, of course, key. Your citrus are going to be most susceptible to freezing temperatures in their young years. And a healthier tree will always stand a better chance of surviving the winter. More important than protecting the foliage/branches of your citrus is protecting the main trunk and root system. I can be a bit lazy when it comes to covering my citrus, and first and foremost aim to protect the roots and lower trunk with piles/bags of leaves, soil, hay bales, etc. If these areas are well protected, even if your foliage is zapped back, it will likely flush back out come spring. Water your citrus well before a freeze. Hard freezes dry out the earth below and cause more damage. And, as always, compost the earth beneath your tree often and well, creating a lively soil for a healthy tree, and giving it a greater chance of surviving any problem thrown at it. •
December Plant Spotlight: Native Persimmon, Diospyros virginia
One of my favorite native fruit trees, persimmon grows prolifically all along the lower Mississippi River valley. I find them at the edge of all my woods. The trees have a lovely, whimsical, elegant, form. I see them grow quite tall, thirty feet and beyond—though many stay low, al lowing deer and oth er wildlife to graze from them. You need a male and female tree if you want to bear fruit, which is different from that of the Asian persimmon varieties. The fruit is very astringent, and best eaten once very ripe and after the first frost. The tree and its fruit have a rich natu ral history, finding its place among many different cultures of people as a beautiful winter tradition to behold and consume.
Give Yourself the Gift of Health
As the hustle and bustle of the holiday season approaches, don’t forget about you. Take the time to take care of yourself and achieve your best health. Dr. Nyirenda and Dr. Richardson at Lane Family Practice can help you manage chronic health conditions as well as unexpected illnesses and injuries so you can enjoy the holiday season.
Keeping Up with the Acadians
IN AUGUST, THOUSANDS OF COUSINS CONVENED IN NOVA SCOTIA FOR THE 2024 CONGRÈS MONDIAL ACADIEN
Story and photos by Charlotte Jones
Sitting in front of an empty stage in the expo hall, Alan hBroussard and his brother Richard asked if I had seen some person who was, “supposed to be here an hour and a half ago.” I did not hear the name, thought it sounded vaguely Cajun, and assumed he was asking about a musician based on the empty stage. I asked “who?” twice more. Not wanting to ask a third time, I shrugged and told Alan, “I have no clue—probably hungover somewhere?”
It was National Acadian Day, as well as the fifth day of the Congrès Mondial Acadien (CMA). The CMA is an international celebration of Acadian heritage featuring cultural festivities, workshops, storytelling, symposia, and family reunions—held this past August in “the
homeland” of the Acadian shores in southwest Nova Scotia, where dozens of communities opened up their community halls, ice rinks, fire stations, decommissioned churches, and parking lots to host thousands of cousins over nine days, at events ranging from community breakfasts to poetry readings.
Historically, the gathering began in 1994 and since then occurs every five years in the primary regions where Acadian displaced families finally regained their footing after the harrowing Grand Dérangement that began in 1755. Earlier CMAs have been held in Maine, Louisiana, and different locales in the Maritime Provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. Despite the 2,000-mile difference, the threads between Acadian Louisiana and the
Maritimes form the double helix that is the CMA, something that became abundantly clear within hours of the event's kickoff.
Alan and his wife, Brenda—from Lafayette, Louisiana—have attended the CMAs since 1999. Alan spoke to why they keep coming back: “It's like a religious experience in that I feel moved by the fact that these people are coming in from all over the world to celebrate our heritage. One of the big things, for me, is seeing all of the familiar faces.”
The week began with remnants of Hurricane Debby, which delayed the Opening Festival by several hours. Two New Brunswickers laughed when I stubbornly refused their help setting up my tent in the high winds, reasoning, “this is not my first hurricane.” Acadian flags and custom printed signs announcing last names like Arsenault and Thibodaux around the Scalawags Oceanside Campground in Church Point made it feel even more like Louisiana. Just eight miles south in Lower Saulnierville, Brenda and Alan set up camp at Rest Ashore Seaside Campground, owned and run by, coincidentally, another Brenda and Alan. On the shuttle to the Opening Festival, I found myself sitting next to the mayor of Yarmouth, foretelling just how familiar attendees at the CMA were to become with each other during the week to come.
Still, feeling out of place as a solo traveler who can neither speak French, nor claim Acadian ancestry, I at once sought out fellow Louisianans at the Opening Festival. No one quite shouted, "I’m from Louisiana" like Robert Broussard Jr., who approached holding two beers, wearing a straw hat and a “Cajun AF” shirt. Robert introduced me to plenty of cousins and friends, including Alan, throughout the week—just as my neighbors at the campground welcomed me with their own version of Southern hospitality. While my New Brunswick neighbors offered me a sample of moose meat and French-immersion lessons, Alan and Brenda made their neighbors jambalaya and threw an impromptu Cajun jam session around the fire.
Any anxieties I had about attend-
ing the CMA were of my own making; everyone made sure that everyone else was well-fed and imbibed. At Le Richelieu, a beautiful hall nestled in the foothills along the Meteghan River, Louisianans brought their pots and paddles in rented trucks to serve jambalaya, complementing culinary traditions of the Acadian Shores such as lobster rolls, poutine, and Rappie pie, a casserole-like dish of grated potatoes. Bal de Maison, of France, and Acadiana’s own Amis du Teche provided a repertoire of Acadian music—but the sounds of laughter, feet shuffling, and bottles clinking produced the (all too familiar) soundscape. If you closed your eyes and listened, you could’ve sworn you were at La Poussière in Breaux Bridge.
Unlike Alan and Robert, this was my very first CMA. I had been invited to speak on the subject of Acadian cattle brands in Louisiana as part of the Symposium Louisiane-Acadie hosted by the Center for Louisiana Studies. Featuring a series of speakers and experts from Acadie and Louisiana, the program was designed to emphasize the modern day connections between the two related cultures. Of course, the Louisiana-Acadie connection cannot be discussed without confronting the Grand Dérangement, though the apocryphal Evangeline narrative has generally quieted down in recent years. Many descendants today recognize the relative privilege that they have been afforded in contrast to other diasporic peoples; their remembrance being allotted this celebration. Still, that does not negate the fact that the tragic Grand Dérangement created more victims than spoils.
Today, one of the long-term reverberations of the Acadian diaspora is the language preservation movement. As part of the symposium, Cajun musician and language activist Zachary Richard delivered, in French, a history of Acadians in Louisiana to a packed house. Prefacing his talk with the importance of language preservation as a notion of Cajun and Acadian identity, he asked "will we be able to conceive of ourselves as our ancestors did?"
The question was explored in more detail on Day 4 at the Broussard Family
Top: Acadian flags displayed along the Nova Scotian coast. Bottom: Dancing at Le Richelieu Dance Hall along the Metaghan River.
Reunion. Folks wrote down their maiden surnames and where they were from; Louisiana towns were in full presence. The reunion included a field trip to Belleisle Hall Acadian Cultural Centre and an interpretive sign commemoration for Joseph Broussard dit Beausoleil, the resistance fighter who led hundreds of Acadians on the journey from Acadie to St. Martinville, Louisiana in 1764. The majority of the 200 people in attendance claimed Louisiana as home. Near the end of the day, one of the descendants saw me at the reunion picnic, pointed, and said, "You. Come here." I bumbled over, fearing I would finally be ousted as a fraud and party crasher. Rather, she and her folks deemed me an honorary Acadian, and told me I could "officially" spell my surname: J-E-A-U-N-E-S.
By the time I got to Day 5 at the expo hall with Alan and Richard Broussard, wondering about the mystery person who was late for their appearance—I was exhausted, hungry, and a little overwhelmed. Walking back into the main hall, a flock of people and activity formed a cohesive entity around one man towering above the rest. It was then that I realized Alan and George had not been asking about a hungover musician, but Prime Minister Justin Trudeau.
There is a certain phenomenon that takes place at the CMA that cannot be wholly articulated. First, the physical superimposition—people of Acadian descent returning to the lands that their ancestors once tended, rekindling connections to a place across distance and time. Then there is the
emotional transference—a potential trifecta of grief, anger, and unprocessed trauma from the Acadian diaspora is in stead transformed to power a celebration of living, cameraderie, and ancestry. Per haps, it is more of a transcendence.
All of it culminated that same day at 5:55 pm, during the National Acadian Day procession known as the Tintam arre. In this relatively new tradition— likely predicated in the ancient—Acadi ans announce their presence with a litany of noise. Kazoos, pots, pans, instruments, horns, and buckets accompany the vocal proclamation, “Vive l’Acadie!” amongst themselves and to the world.
As the Tintamarre meandered down main street, a dense fog rolled in from the Atlantic —the kind that usually quells its surroundings like a lullaby. Rather than clashing with the cacophony of noise, colors, and people, the fog complemented and amplified the Tintamarre, turning the normally sleepy town of Yarmouth into an enriched palette of celebration. Transcendence.
That evening, thousands more descended upon the Yarmouth Airport for the National Acadian Day Concert, and there were still three more days of official CMA events. The dancing continued. The remembrance continued.
I could’ve sworn I was the only one tired. Perhaps, “Keeping up with the Acadians” should be Louisiana’s motto for maintaining pace with your neighbors. As a Jones, I have some authority in proverbial cliches, and after spending a week with my Acadian neighbors and their cousins, I re-learned another: it’s a marathon, not a sprint. • cma2024.ca.
Top: Acadians celebrating Tintamarre on the 2024 celebration of National Acadian Day down Main Street in Yarmouth. Bottom: Acadians and Cajuns (and visitors) at Congrés Mondial Acadian convening at the campsite at Baie St. Marie.
Spring Flowers, 36x36 oil by Betty Efferson
Geraldine Taking Off, 36x36 oil by Carol Hallock
By Ed Cullen
Around Christmas last year, I was sitting in front of a patio fireplace in the courtyard when it occurred to me that I had what I needed to fulfill a wish I’d harbored since childhood. I had the hot coals of a hardwood fire and chestnuts, the gift of a neighbor.
My fascination with roasting chestnuts began in the Decembers of the late 1940s, when I was enjoying life as an only child, anticipating Christmas and walking around my house listening to the radio. I’m confident of this because my earliest memories of that house are a secure awareness of two things: my mother and music on the radio.
Recorded in 1946, Nat King Cole’s song about chestnuts roasting on an open fire was already a Christmas standard by then. It is that song, more than “Santa Claus is Coming to Town” or “Deck the Halls” or even “Silent Night,” that evokes childhood Christmases for me.
Nat King Cole. That voice. He could have sung a grocery store shopping list, and it would have been a hit. It was Cole’s butter-smooth bass that made me yearn
for chestnuts roasted, not in an oven, but on an open fire. It would take about seventy years for me to fulfill that desire.
Along the way, I learned that the song I knew as “Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire” was actually called “The Christmas Song,” written by Mel Tormé and Bob Wells. In a song that includes every popular reference to Christmas imaginable, there is but one line of six words about chestnuts roasting on an open fire. That’s it. Chestnuts. Roasting. On. An. Open. Fire. Yet, that image, along with Cole’s voice, makes “The Christmas Song,” in my book, the best song ever about Christmas.
It was written on a sweltering July day in Los Angeles in 1945. Tormé arrived at the home of songwriting partner Wells to find on the piano these lines on a pad of paper. “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire; Jack Frost nipping at your nose. Yuletide carols being sung by a choir, and folks dressed up like Eskimos.”
When Wells appeared in tennis clothes, he told Tormé that he’d dashed off the lines in an attempt to cool off by “thinking cool.” Over the next forty-five
minutes, the writers composed a song and melody that captured everything good about Christmas, real and implied.
Tormé might easily have recorded the song himself, but he thought he and Wells had something worthy of the great Nat King Cole. Cole loved it, but it would be late fall 1946 before Cole had time to record “The Christmas Song.”
Tormé’s version is hammy but worth a listen. If you want goose bumps, listen to Cole.
Last Christmas, warming myself before an outside fire, I remembered that gift of a small sack of chestnuts. Oh, rapturous joy. I would play “The Christmas Song” on my cell phone while roasting my own chestnuts.
My movie memories of street vendors roasting chestnuts for eager customers with cheeks all aglow called for a small, hot, contained fire and chestnuts. The vendors scooped up the roasted chestnuts with a trowel-like shovel to deposit the piping hot delicacy into expertly fashioned paper cones.
What could be simpler? I had a handsize coal shuttle into which I placed a half
dozen chestnuts. I lay the nut-filled shuttle on the coals and waited for the chestnuts to cook to the point of steaming and starting to open—as shown on YouTube. Carefully, I lifted the handle of the shuttle with a gloved hand to place the treat of all Christmas treats on a brick to cool.
After a few minutes, I cut open the biggest chestnut with my pocketknife and took a bite.
Bleah! I spit out what tasted like hot smushed acorns and burned yellow grits sprinkled with car battery acid. Websites offered suggestions of spices, herbal teas and other things that might make roasted chestnuts palatable.
I wasn’t having it. “The Christmas Song” and countless movie scenes of snowy city streets and chestnuts roasting say nothing about adding stuff to chestnuts so you can choke them down. Ale, maybe. Yes, ale would be good, but only if you left out the eating chestnuts part.
There you have my Yule offering. I still love the song, the music of Nat King Cole, the memory of my mother, and walking through my first house to songs of Christmas on the radio. •
CREATIVE SPARK
The Fleurty Lore
THE REMARKABLE STORY BEHIND LAUREN LEBLANC
HAYDEL'S MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR T-SHIRT BUSINESS
Arags-to-riches tale with a distinctly New Orleans twist, Lauren LeBlanc Haydel’s is a hstory of a woman and the city she loves, of a hairbrained idea that drew criticism from everyone that mattered to her, and the moxie to believe she just might pull it off.
It all begins with a single mom struggling to raise three kids, living paycheck to paycheck. The mortgage was in arrears. The electricity had been shut off once for non-payment. But hark, salvation arrived in the form of a $2,000 tax refund.
It was enough to get ahead on her mortgage. But Haydel found herself consumed by something she’d noticed in the thick of this difficult season, which also happened to be an especially good season for the New Orleans Saints and a generally celebratory time for the city as a whole. Everyone was wearing New Orleans on their t-shirts. “But all the available merchandise catered to men," she said. "There were no female-friendly cuts and necklines.”
Haydel had an idea.
She reached out to a creative friend, Valerie Foman, and asked her to illustrate three designs that celebrated New Orleans culture, trading her an armoire for the work. She spent her tax refund on screen-printing a total of 300 tees in those designs and began selling them out of her Denham Springs home. “I posted them on my Facebook page and friends shared it to their pages,” Haydel said. Before she knew it, she was selling out faster than she could print.
The brand name, Fleurty Girl, (an homage to the French fleur de lis which is synonymous with New Orleans) came to her one night while she was drinking an Abita Strawberry lager on her back porch. She made a dash for her laptop to
New Orleans collectively learned Haydel’s story, and everybody wanted a Fleurty Girl t-shirt. “I literally couldn’t print them fast enough,” she said. “People no longer wanted the NFL shirts. They wanted something homegrown.”
Going all in, Haydel quit her full-time job. “I woke up to women lined up at my front door wanting t-shirts,” she said. “I thought, ‘There’s no going back.’ I did have a moment of doubt when they came to get my company car and I realized I no longer had insurance.”
In the end, Haydel credits the NFL’s mistake with putting Fleurty Girl on the map. “I think we would have been successful eventually, but the controversy catapulted us onto the New Orleans scene,” she said. She still has that ceaseand-desist order and one of those original t-shirts.
Haydel took a chance and those candles quickly sold out. Today, she carries a variety of products from mostly small, woman-owned businesses.
Standing in one spot in her Mandeville store, Haydel can rattle off the businesses she’s supporting and often the name of the owner. “This is Denise Landry with The Parish Line,” she said. “This is Chad and Anna Brown of Oxford Candle Company in Mississippi. This is Simon Hardeveld with Simon of New Orleans Apparel and Celia Isabel with NOLA Tawk out of New Orleans. When I look around the shop, I can see their faces.”
nab the .com. “It was already taken by a flower blog in California,” Haydel said. “She’d taken it only a month before. I grabbed .net and, when she retired, I bought the .com from her.”
Six months after launching her online shop, Haydel knew she needed a brickand-mortar where customers could try the shirts on. She turned to Craigslist, and found a shotgun for rent on Oak Street, in which she could operate a store in front and live with her kids, all in one bedroom, in the back. "It took some time and convincing to get the landlord to rent it to me," she said. "I could not pass a credit check." She opened the first official Fleurty Girl location on the day of Poboy Festival in November 2009.
It was just a few months later that the proverbial shit hit the fan. One of Haydel's most popular shirts was a simple black number with the words “#WhoDat” on it, celebrating the Saints during a stellar season. Haydel was at her “day job” at a local TV station when she received a cease-and-desist order from the NFL. “I called the girl I had selling the shirts and told her to, quick, pull that one off the shelf,” Haydel recalled.
“Then someone on Twitter asked where she could get a shirt, I explained about the cease and desist, and suddenly my phone was blowing up with TV stations wanting to know what the heck was going on. It all happened so fast.” Word spread about the controversy and on January 28, 2010, Haydel's David-and-Goliath story was the front page story in the Times Picayune.
In the end, it turns out the NFL didn’t own the popular New Orleans slogan, after all. It was owned by two brothers in Texas, Steve and Sal Monistere. Sometime later, Haydel came to an arrangement with them to continue using the phrase. But in the meantime,
By the time summer rolled around, Haydel was desperate to get the business out of her home. She turned to Craigslist again, and found a Magazine Street location for rent. “By the time I fixed it up, I only had a couple hundred dollars in the bank,” she said. She admits it was scary, but she’d been down this road before. Six months later, Haydel opened another location in the French Quarter and a third in Metairie not long after that. Today, Fleurty Girl is a multi-million-dollar business with nine locations from Mandeville to Baton Rouge to Bay St. Louis.
Still, Haydel never wants to forget her humble beginnings. At some locations, she’s recreated the original porch from her Oak Street home, where Fleurty Girl began. On the front door of each location, she displays the name of the store manager. “That’s their store and they receive a percentage of the sales volume in addition to their base pay,” Haydel said. “They’re the ones who interact with the customer and keep their pulse on the local culture.”
Haydel has also made a point of using her success to help other fledgling businesses. “It started when a woman came into my first shop wanting to sell her candles,” Haydel said. “They were in Saints colors with a label that said, ‘Believe.’ At the time, I didn’t know if I wanted to sell anything but t-shirts.”
And some of the family members who initially tried to convince her not to take the enormous risk of starting Fleurty Girl now work for her. “My mom is my business manager and my sister works for me,” Haydel said. “None of my kids do. They’re over it.” She laughed.
Inventory has expanded from strictly New Orleans themes to include some American pop culture such as Golden Girls, Dolly Parton, and Taylor Swift. The Mandeville store has some nods to the Northshore and the Bay St. Louis location offers tribute to Mississippi, including a popular “Hancock Parish” shirt (since so many of its residents are expats from Louisiana).
“The funny thing about the Bay St. Louis store is that my husband and I bought a place there to get away and not think about work.” she said. “But once we saw what was happening there, we knew they needed a Fleurty Girl. We even included an AirBnB behind the building with each of the rooms named after an amazing Bay St. Louis woman.”
This commitment to supporting women business owners continues to shape the culture of Haydel’s Fleurty Girl. “At one point, Celia [Isabel] from NOLA Tawk told me to come outside and see the new car our business helped her buy,” she said. “That’s the power of shopping local. The ‘fleurty’ girl is a girl with a lust for life and a love for her city. Whether that’s New Orleans, Baton Rouge, or Bay St. Louis, we want to help her celebrate it.” •
fleurtygirl.com.
Story by Mimi Greenwood Knight
Images courtesy of Lauren LeBlanc Haydel, owner of Fleurty Girl (pictured).
The Magazine Street, New Orleans location of Fleurty Girl.
Escapes
A REAL-LIFE WHOVILLE
Where are You Christmas? In Branson, Missouri
IN THE HOMELAND OF AMERICANA, A HOLIDAY SPECTACLE THAT HAS TO BE SEEN TO BE BELIEVED
Story by Kristy Christiansen • Photos by Paul Christiansen
Fhor two months each year, the mountain town of Branson, Missouri is said to light up the sky, transforming into a magical wonderland deep in the heart of the Ozarks, rivaling the most dazzling of Hallmark’s carefully crafted holiday settings. Last year, my husband and I slipped away to find out if all the hype was true, and we discovered an enchanted city alive with the spirit of the season.
We kicked off our first night out at Dolly Parton’s Stampede, a family-friendly, rodeo-style dinner show. As soon as we settled into our seats, the horses launched into the arena, the trick riders standing in their saddles and directing their steeds to jump, apparently effortlessly, through flaming hoops. On cue, the waiters entered in a choreographed phalanx, working their way down the rows with the precision of soldiers going into
battle. Within minutes, we had the evening’s first course of vegetable soup and a hot biscuit, with the directive: “There’s no spoons at the Stampede. You have to grab, dip, and sip.”
The food and entertainment flowed from that point onward, mesmerizing our senses with equestrian feats and daring aerial shows intermingled with comedy bits and a culinary centerpiece of a full rotisserie chicken for each person
(and yes, I nearly ate it all!). We stomped our boots in support of our South Pole horse racing team and finished the evening watching the costumed actors present a Christmas pageant second to none. After the long day of driving, followed by a whirlwind of entertainment, we unwound before bed on our balcony at the Westgate Branson Woods Resort. Our one-bedroom grand villa was pure luxury, with a king-size bed and jacuzzi tub
Light displays at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri.
tucked away beside a full kitchen, dining room, and den complete with a fireplace. The resort is a destination in itself, 145 acres with an abundance of activities, including two pools, basketball and shuffleboard courts, a game room, and hiking trails. The Activities Center offers daily crafts, Bingo, comedy shows, and more, while full-day excursions showcase the best of Branson. There’s even a pizza joint and a marketplace (serving up Starbucks coffee) inside the Wilderness Lodge.
Friday dawned with cool, crisp mountain air, and we enjoyed pastries by the outdoor firepit before setting off for Branson’s premiere attraction—Silver Dollar City. Today an amusement park known for hosting world-class festivals, the 100acre park had much humbler beginnings as a “hole in the ground.” Marvel Cave, one of the tallest caves in the United States, lies directly below Silver Dollar City and was the area’s original draw when it opened to tours in 1894. The village opened in 1960 as a place for visitors to explore while waiting their turn to view Marvel Cave.
Aside from the cave and theme park, Silver Dollar City also offers a water park, campground, and dinner cruise known as the Showboat Branson Belle. Designed after an 1800s grand paddlewheeler, the Branson Belle loops around man-made Table Rock Lake, affording unparallelled views of the Ozarks and one of the country’s top bass-fishing destinations. We started the morning here, watching
a bald eagle take flight as we pulled away from the dock.
The boat’s interior opened into a large dinner theatre, where we gorged on another outstanding three-course meal while laughing off the calories. Christopher James, who touts his show as “Funny Hyper Magic,” encouraged full audience participation as he captivated the crowd with magic feats and side-splitting
comedy acts. Meanwhile, professional dancers took us on a journey of the top hits and accompanying dances from the 1960s to today. During intermission, we ascended to the boat’s deck to lounge in Adirondack chairs and enjoy more expansive lake views.
After returning to dry land, we browsed the specialty shops at the White River Landing before setting off for Sil-
ver Dollar City proper. From November 2 to December 30, the theme park hosts an Old Time Christmas with a singalong steam train, seasonal treats, and more than 6.5 million lights. 1.5 million of those twinkling bulbs light up every inch of Midtown, with fifty-foot light tunnels, flying angels, and galloping reindeer. Nearby, at Town Square, an eight story animated Christmas tree shines
Modeled on the idea of the 1880s pioneer town that once existed at the entrance to Marvel Cave, Silver Dollar City is renowned for its 100 resident demonstrating craftsmen, who forge steel, carve wood, create lye soap and candles, and whip up taffy, chocolate, and other candies.
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center stage as Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer leads a nightly parade of illuminated floats and costumed characters.
Modeled on the idea of the 1880s pioneer town that once existed at the entrance to Marvel Cave, Silver Dollar City is renowned for its 100 resident demonstrating craftsmen, who forge steel, carve wood, create lye soap and candles, and whip up taffy, chocolate, and other candies. Affectionately called “citizens,” many of the workers are Silver Dollar City lifers, who each earn a shop named for them after twenty-five years and a dogwood tree planted after fifty years.
The main path winds past the citizens at work and more tasty treats than you can imagine, including the park’s famous skillet meals. Meanwhile, spur roads jut off to reveal a plethora of thrilling roller coasters (check out the newest, record-setting Fire in the Hole), rides that spin and plunge, and family-friendly alternatives for the younger crew (and those faint of heart like myself!). A favorite is Grandfather’s Mansion, an upside-down world with slanted floors that will hysterically destroy your sense of equilibrium.
Did I mention the forty live shows held daily at the park? We opted for A Dickens’ Christmas Carol and were fully amazed by the Broadway-caliber cast, falling in love with Tiny Tim and rooting for Scrooge’s transformation. The show let out just in time for us to make it to Town Square, where we joined the crowd cheering on the passing Christmas parade.
Not ready to leave, we hurried to catch the tour of Marvel Cave, which initially descends 300 feet into the largest cave entrance in the United States. The stairwell is quite daunting, and I couldn’t imagine the original explorers who came in with nothing more than lanterns to illuminate their path. While we wove our way through the cave, the guide regaled us with stories of early spelunkers who sought to mine marble here but found only valuable bat guano. The journey out was nearly as exciting as the cave itself, as we all boarded a cable train that pulled us back to the surface.
Saturday started with a homestyle country brunch at Billy Gail’s Cafe, home of fourteen-inch pancakes and famous fried chicken, before we set off on Westgate’s waterfall trail, which follows a tributary of Roark Creek along the backside of the property. We started at the viewing platform, watching the water trickle over the edge of the moss-covered stones to the clear pool a short distance below. Then we descended to the creek, walking the leaf-strewn water’s edge as we followed the trail back to our room.
We decided to explore historic downtown Branson next, traveling to Main Street, where we bought gifts for the kids in Dick’s 5 & 10, browsed the elegant clothing in the Victorian House, and picked up an afternoon coffee in the neighboring Victorian-themed Pie Safe. Our final feast brought us to Guy Fieri’s Branson Kitchen & Bar. We nearly fought over the final chip of the Trash Can Nachos and left with enough of our pulled pork sandwiches to provide a delectable lunch for our return home the following day.
The night wasn’t over yet, though. We set out to walk the lakeside mall at Branson Landing, window-shopping at Bass Pro Shops and debating whether I’d really wear those gorgeous embroidered cowboy boots at Boot Barn. Heading back to Westgate, we veered off to see the “Lights of Joy” Christmas Drive-Thru, a mile-long light trail offering a whimsical display of colorful LED characters flickering in the evening’s darkness.
The town was fast asleep as we headed out early Sunday for our long drive home to New Orleans, but the season’s magic was still palpable in the air. Glancing back at the scenic town below, we bid farewell to this wholesome winter fairyland, shimmering behind us like a holiday dream in the morning mountain mist. •
Disclaimer: This trip was hosted and partially funded by Westgate Resorts and Silver Dollar City, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.
The Showboat Branson Belle at Silver Dollar City.
A Pilgrimage from Genesis to Diaspora . . . and Back Again
JOURNEYING TO THE ANCESTRAL BEACON OF ACADIA
There is perhaps no better way to truly understand the Acadian story in Louisiana than by setting foot in Acadia, where the land, historic sites, and the people of the Maritimes tell a story of vitality spanning four centuries.
Most of the modern Maritime Provinces are situated on the land once known as Acadie, the home of the French Acadian people, who, in the seventeenth century settled on the unceded Mi’kmaw territory known as Mi'kma'ki.
The mythic destruction of Acadia at the hands of the English during the eighteenth century Grand Dérangement left little surviving material culture from before the diaspora, but there does remain an abundance of historical sources and genealogical research—in the Maritimes, Louisiana, and online—available to aid Acadian descendants in piecing together family trees, histories, or locations of former homesites in the Maritime Provinces. Parks, museums, and roadside markers provide a wealth of interpretation throughout Nova Scotia, particularly along the northern region below the Bay of Fundy, where the Acadian culture developed.
Visiting these places in person, especially armed with the knowledge and context available in the expansive literature, fosters a deeper understanding of Acadie, from its genesis to its diaspora, while providing a new lens through which to read the Louisiana landscape at home.
The Annapolis Basin
The Annapolis Basin is considered the “Cradle of Acadie,” where the first trickle of French fur traders established permanent settlements at the cusp of the seventeenth century. The area was named Port-Royal in 1604, and the French built a trading post the following year; their survival through that harsh winter can mostly be attributed to the support of the Mi’kmaq. Soon after, a network of trade and military alliances cemented a relationship between the two communities that lasted over 150 years.
The town of Annapolis Royal— founded as Port-Royal—is considered one of the oldest permanent European settlements in North America. This is where, over time, the Europeans set up the essentials of a colonial capital: the church, the mill, and the fort. While the town is now considered the “Cradle” of Acadie, it became the center of conflict between the French and English throughout the 17th century, passing between the two realms eight times before the English finally seized the fortress in 1710. That is today’s Fort Anne National Historic Site, the first Parks Canada historic site in the country. Interpretive displays and artifacts tell the history, with a particular focus on the perspectives of the main players: the Mi’kmaq, the French, the English, and the Acadians. The museum also has archives available to peruse with an appointment,
Story and photos by Charlotte Jones
A statue of Evangeline, the fictional Acadian heroine, standing before a chapel erected in the approximate location of the 18th century church destroyed during the Grand Dérangement in 1755.
complementing the wealth of genealogical information at the O’Dell House Museum, run by the Annapolis Heritage Society. The Mapan napolis project is also a great resource for research from afar. By the 1630s, the Acadian communities began expanding beyond the colonial town. The Melanson Settlement National Historic Site, an archaeological park and former Acadian settlement, is such an exam ple. After Charles Melanson and Marie Dugas settled there in 1664, their kin turned the settlement into a bonafide village. Composed of houses and farm outbuildings for ten families, the settlement thrived for almost ninety years until the Grand Dérangement. They cultivated the land through dyking and the ingenious aboiteaux system, removing brackish water from marshlands to claim the fertile terre as their own. Though the livestock, gardens, and buildings no longer grace the ter raced landscape, apple orchards nestled away in the woods act as living artifacts from the days of yore.
Apple trees on the Melanson Settlement National Historic Site, a former Acadian settlement and archaeological park in Nova Scotia.
The Annapolis Valley in modern day Nova Scotia, where the French Acadian settlers expanded from Port-Royal and made their settlements in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
King USMC LTCOL Roman Kemp Cason, Queen Lucy Cason & Captain Danielle Lennix invite you to honor veterans at the
Annapolis Valley & the Minas Basin
As the Acadian population grew during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, families expanded down the Annapolis Valley into the Minas Basin. To traverse west on the scenic Evangeline Trail, from Annapolis Royal to Grand Pré, is to follow the Acadian story. It is along these corridors that the lives of the Acadians—both the prosperous and tumultuous aspects—are truly reflected on the landscape. The agriculture, produced on lands first drained by Acadians, creates a patchwork of vibrant chartreuse and earth-tones backlit by the darker hues of the North and South Mountains. Despite the hilly terrain—the livestock, Annapolis River, and its tributaries evoke imagery of the Bayou Teche. Much like in bayou coun try, locals get impatient—though not enraged—with sightse ers on the scenic route. Luckily, public sideroads and pull-offs allow inquisitive drivers to safely pull over at places of inter est. Consulting historic and contemporary maps beforehand also eases the search for Acadian homesites, or spontaneous exploring.
As soon as the Annapolis Valley ends, the Minas Basin begins. By 1701, this area became the hub of Acadian vitali ty, to which one observer noted the inhabitants were “of very independent character and accustomed to deciding things for themselves!” Indeed, 1,300 hectares of Grand-Pré’s cultural landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is here that the fictional Evangeline called home in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s epic poem. Today, the Grand-Pre NHS com memorates the Grand Pré settlement and the Grand Dérange ment with a museum and stunning gardens. Evangeline’s stat ue prefaces the chapel erected in the approximate location of the 18th century church destroyed in 1755. Inside, memorials abound to honor the 10,000 Acadians forcibly deported from their homes. Outside, weeping willows creak and groan— though they only range from sixty to eighty years old, they are descendants of ancient willows planted there long ago by the original Acadian settlers. •
A weeping willow tree at Grand-Pré's UNESCO World Heritage Site, the place where the fictional Acadian heroine Evangeline called home.
The Port-Royal National Historic Site.
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The Duplantier Oak - Baton Rouge, Louisiana
One summer night long ago, the pioneering conservationist and writer Aldo Leopold was startled awake by a crash outside his cabin. When Leopold discovered that a large oak had been struck by lightning, he mourned the loss, then prepared to cut firewood for the cold Wisconsin winter ahead. The trunk revealed eighty growth rings, each representing a year of the tree’s existence. In his collection of essays A Sand County Almanac, Leopold reflects upon each year as he saws through its corresponding ring. First through the rings laid down during the years he and his family lived on that farm. Saw, saw. Then through the rings of the Great Depression. Saw, saw. Through the Roaring ‘20s. Saw, saw, all the way down to the “heartwood”—the first ring, which marked the year 1865—the end of the Civil War.
Down in Baton Rouge, by 1865 the Duplantier Oak would already have been old. The 240 growth rings beneath its wizened bark mark time back to the founding of our country in 1776, making it one of Louisiana’s longestlived specimens. Also known as Number 986 in the Live Oak Society’s database of registered Louisiana live oaks, the Duplantier Oak has starred in the stories of generations of Louisianans, standing as it does on property once known as Duplantier Plantation. Its branches extend in all directions. Some reach for the sky above; others rest on the ground to buttress the oak’s age-gnarled trunk. Sunk deep in Southern soil, the roots of the Duplantier Oak have held fast through innumerable storms, marking this tree as both a landmark and a silent sentinel to the flourishing of the capital city that has grown up around it.
Today, the Duplantier Oak serves as both shelter and symbol for residents of St. James Place Retirement Community, which occupies the site once known as Duplantier Plantation. The tree represents a focal point for the community—an symbol of endurance, strength, and wisdom, in whose shade residents gather to reminisce and remember life’s chapters, laid down like so many growth rings, all the way down to one another’s heartwood.
“ These things I ponder as the kettle sings, and the good oak bums to red coals on white ashes. Those ashes, come spring, I will return to the orchard at the foot of the sandhill. They will come back to me again, perhaps as red apples, or perhaps as a spirit of enterprise in some fat October squirrel, who, for reasons unknown to himself, is bent on planting acorns.”
- Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac
PERSPECTIVES:
Living Jewels
ARTIST
STEPHEN WILSON’S
STAINED GLASS CREATIONS ADORN BATON ROUGE AND BEYOND
By Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun
Nearly hidden in Stephen Wilson’s lush, richly appointed gardens sits the studio, where his stained glass projects are born.
In that peaceful sanctuary, adorned in cool colors and soft, dappled light, Wilson’s windows begin—first, on paper. His is quiet, meditative work that uses pen and ink for the initial sketch, and watercolors to introduce hues. Sometimes he uses acrylic, other times colored pencils. The tranquility lends itself to private, edifying expressions of his Christian faith; as he works on his art, he prays his daily devotions.
In ways, this part of the process is the simplest—him, with a blank page, left alone with the vision he strives to manifest. It’s when other people get involved that it starts to get more complicated.
Approaching new commissions, Wilson often gives his standard spiel on color (“the most important thing in a stained glass window”) and light (“the next most important thing—how much light”), before even introducing the question of subject matter. If he’s creating art for a religious building, such as a church, someone will often, inevitably, suggest he capture the idea of “faith, hope, and love.”
“I say, ‘Well, if you tell me what they look like, it sounds nice. But what is the visual there?’” he said. “People are going to be staring at these images, especially if it's a boring sermon. And so, you know, help me do something that is not just another funky saint, defined by what he's holding as a result of his devotion or his martyrdom. Come on, let's get something with action.”
Wilson’s work is ubiquitous in Baton Rouge, from churches and religious institutions to government buildings, hospitals, and libraries. He has even produced art for entrances and other windows in private homes across the Capital region, surprising bursts of color and light nestled in notable neighborhoods around the area. His work also graces buildings beyond Baton Rouge, as far as New York, California, and Hawaii.
Steeped in the storied tradition of Christian iconography and Biblical scenes retold, the often static medium comes alive in Wilson’s able hands, evoking motion and flux captured in the changing quality of light. His windows are inseparable from his love of water, derived from a childhood spent exploring creeks and rivers.
“Other glass artists have told me that my work has more movement than others,” Wilson said. “I think of currents, water currents or wind currents. There’s usually a flow.”
The results are vibrant, complex tapestries, using bright, saturated colors to capture a swirl of life and movement. From riotously colorful creation scenes like the multi-window display at Holy Ghost Catholic Church in Hammond, to the almost audible whoosh of a pelican in flight adorning the Poydras Building, Wilson’s body of work as a whole captures the singular beauty of unrealized motion.
When Wilson’s father appeared in his room the summer after high school graduation and told his son he would attend LSU, Wilson was perplexed. “I didn’t
Wilson’s glass studio and storefront, located in an unassuming building on a remote stretch of Laurel Street in Baton Rouge, is a far cry from the shaded haven of his home design space. Peace is sustained through the dedicated rhythm of a reflective, creative process; but the heat, rough edges, and collaboration of the art form infuses the space with a clipped hum of energy.
Staffed with students from LSU, the studio is where Wilson’s work transitions from page to window. The process is involved, using scaled projections, duplicating patterns onto special paper, and labeling the sections with the precise color.
have a game plan,” he said. His father unfurled a copy of the LSU course catalog and the two spent the evening paging through his options.
“He said, ‘Why don't you try art? You've always carved things and doodled,’” Wilson recalled. But Wilson, who was raised by an oil man working for Chevron, felt uncomfortable with delving into the world of fine arts, which at the time seemed distinctly foreign to him. Always a lover of the outdoors, he instead went with forestry and wildlife management. This was his course of study until the day he wandered across campus and found himself in the landscape architecture building.
Besotted by a world of growing things and the freedom to order them into coherent design, Wilson switched his major and dove into a more creative pursuit that combined his passion for nature with visual experimentation. Eventually, this path opened wide that formerly imposing door into fine arts when he took a junior year art elective. Wilson was immediately hooked: “That's all I wanted to do at that point, more and more art.”
Under famed artist Paul Dufour, who created the first stained glass program at LSU, Wilson pursued and earned an MFA in Stained Glass. Far from the whimsical, emotion-driven creative process he anticipated, the coursework was defined by rigor and discipline—with early mornings giving way to pragmatic design exercises before students at last began to create their own work.
“And, man, I just loved it,” Wilson said. “And it melded perfectly with my love of water.”
Past the sturdy tables where the windows are fused together are shelves storing more than forty years-worth of glass sourced from Germany, Poland, France, England, and America. The glass is carefully cut according to Wilson’s exacting patterns, then sandwiched between reinforcing bars of lead.
The accumulation of glass is critical; there are fewer churches being built these days (the ones that are popping up often have arena-style constructions, not conducive to stained glass), and Wilson’s favorite glass producer in Poland, which offered the broadest palette for the best prices, closed about two decades ago.
Despite these challenges, Wilson continues his work—ever seeking to imbue his windows with vibrancy, the marriage of colors, the right quality of glass, and the manipulation of light imitating jewels, backlit and sparkling: “As a glass artist, I’ve got to play with the candy, right?”
With so much color to explore, sometimes abstraction does provoke inspiration. While Wilson seeks something more tangible in the visual representation of a concept like “faith, hope, and love,” often his most moving works express concepts and ideas that encourage interpretation. At Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center, the intersecting colors and ethereal curves of the meditation wall are anything but concrete, but they evoke serenity in a space where patients, visitors, and medical personnel alike might particularly benefit from the presence of transcendent beauty.
“I called it, ‘Lord, Hear Our Prayer,’” Wilson said. “Imagine prayer interpreted in stained glass. You know, a very abstract idea. To me, it's these bands of color rising up, and moving, and God's blessing and presence coming down.” •
stephenwilsonstainedglass.com
Image: Stephen Wilson’s drawing of the stained glass window he created for Holy Ghost Catholic Church in Hammond, Louisiana. A rendering of the Genesis account of creation. Photo by Marie Constantin.