Country Roads Magazine "The Myths & Legends Issue" October 2024

R ted rel ionship

Thanks to a winning combination of community vision and relationship banking, the North Commerce development dream is now reality. In St. Francisville’s Historic District, a long vacant, three-acre parcel has been transformed into a retail, dining, and entertainment destination alive with color and commerce. At its heart is The Corbel, the old-meets-new furniture concept with a national following. Upscale clothing boutiques Barlow and Deyo expand the town’s retail appeal.

The Mallory Event Center hosts weddings and receptions. Big River Pizza Company and soon-to-open Bayou Sara Brewing Company are adding dining spark, and Hotel Toussaint delivers unique luxury accommodations. When creative vision and ambition receive financial support from a bank committed to community, this is what life can look like.

Barlow The Corbel Deyo

Hotel Toussaint

REFLECTIONS

A Louisiana Welcome by James Fox-Smith

NEWS & NOTEWORTHIES

Saving Longue Vue and live oaks, a Broadway princess’s upcoming visit & more

TRICKS & TREATS

Pick your way through a pumpkin patch & fais do do at fall festivals

42 A TALE OF TWO SPIRITS

Recalling the bootlegging days of Prairie Ronde, and the ghosts that lingered by Boisy Pitre

THE GONZALES GHOST LIGHT

The spirits of unbaptized babies, lost souls, or swamp gas? by E.C. Michna

Cuisine

TATLO

Culture Events

“DON’T RUN.”

And other lessons from an evening on a paranormal investigation by Shanna Dickens

On the Cover

LANÉ A KAWÈNN-LA (THE YEAR OF THE TURTLE)

Artwork by Jonathan “radbwa faroush” Mayers. Acrylic and Louisiana swamp mud from various regions on panel, repurposed frame. 26.25 x 21.5 in. 2020. Made for the 17th Annual Louisiana Book Festival. Courtesy of the Collection of the State Library of Louisiana, Louisiana Book Festival. Photo by David Humphreys.

Artist Statement: Dedicated to women in Louisiana who have done their utmost to combat injustices, to protect our environment and raise awareness about its relationship to our health and well-being, such as L’Eau est La Vie, Rise St. James, and Louisiana Bucket Brigade. Plus the all-female Krewe de Cowan: their name was censored during Mardi Gras due to the double-entendre of cowan, a type of turtle in Kouri-Vini (kawènn)— the endangered Creole language of Louisiana—and Louisiana French (caouenne) whose alternative meaning is a slang term for female genitalia. To all of the women who do so much for us, thank you.

Démarsh lartistik: Dédiyé a fenm-yé dan Lalwizyàn ki bat kont linjistis épi ki té fé bokou pou protéjé nô lenvironmen é montré moun sô relasyon avèk nô santé é byin-èt, konm çayé dan L’Eau est La Vie a Rise St. James a Louisiana Bucket Brigade. Pi Krewe de Cowan ki tou-fémèl: Yê nom té oté pendan Maddi Gra paski kawènn, in kalité torti en kouri-vini é françé Lalwizyàn gin in doub-tendé ki olé di sèks fémèl osit. Pou tou fenm ki fé bokou pou nouzòt, mèsi.

Outdoors

A place of potions on Bourbon Street by Sophie Nau

Ways to celebrate National Gumbo Day by CR staff

OUR SUSTAINABLE GARDEN

Let the leaves fall where they may by Jess Cole

THE HERMIT OF DEER ISLAND

Remembering John Guilhot by Susan Marquez

ON JEREMY

Publisher James Fox-Smith

Associate

Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

Managing Editor

Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Arts & Entertainment

Editor

Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Creative Director Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Megan Broussard, Jess Cole, Shanna Dickens, Beth Kleinpeter, Nikki Krieg, E.C. Michna, Susan Marquez, Sophie Nau, Boisy Pitre, Jason Ruffin, Lauren Stroh, Stephanie Tarrant

Cover Artist

Jonathan “radbwa faroush” Mayers

Advertising

SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

Sales Team

Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons

Operations Coordinator Molly McNeal

President Dorcas Woods Brown Country Roads Magazine

UNION, JUSTICE CONFIDENCE

The origins of Louisiana’s state motto by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Escapes

UP THE DEVIL’S BACKBONE

EDITORIAL@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM WWW.COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

A morning with Lana Del Rey’s (rumored) new beau by Lauren Stroh A NIGHTCAP AT THE JEWEL

Tracing the Trace’s darkest days by Jason Ruffin

Inside one of the most decorated cocktail bars in New Orleans by Susan Marquez

See cover artist Jonathan “radbwa faroush” Mayers’ complete Artist Statement, in English and Kouri-Vini, at countryroadsmag.com.

DUFRENE’S AIRBOAT

“TATAILLE” A Cajun word for “monster” by Megan Broussard

Artist Roz LeCompte paints the Game of Hope by Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

without permission of the

The opinions expressed in Country Roads magazine are those of the authors or columnists and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, nor do they constitute an endorsement of products or services herein. Country Roads magazine retains the right to refuse any advertisement. Country Roads cannot be responsible for delays in subscription deliveries due to U.S. Post Office handling of third-class mail.

Reflections

FROM THE PUBLISHER

One Friday in late August we woke to a message from an old friend named Polly—a Londoner with whom we had various adventures while she did a Masters at LSU in the late ‘nineties. Polly, whose love for Louisiana food and music has not been dimmed by the passage of time, announced that a family of London friends were planning a road trip from Washington, D.C. through the South, and that she had insisted they include Louisiana on their itinerary. Could they come and visit? “Sure!,” we responded, and, “when are they thinking of coming? October?”

As sociable people who for some reason choose to live in the middle of nowhere, we love having visitors. And anyway, what recovering former backpackers would pass up an opportunity to host folks who have a large house in the leafy London borough of Hamstead Heath?

“Come on,” we answered. “Our door is always open!”

Imagine our surprise when our new friends responded that they were, in fact, presently at Dollywood, and that they’d be on the road from Pigeon Forge just as soon as they could find a place to charge up their electric rental car. So, they

should arrive in, oh, about twelve hours?

Right … so, August. Being sunstarved English folk, they apparently hadn’t processed that there was any such state as “too hot to move.” Research revealed that the dad was in fact a climate reporter for the BBC, and that the opportunity to report on America’s energy transition by driving an electric car into the heart of the Gulf South’s petrochemical patch had proven too good to turn down. As anyone who has tried driving an electric car around the South won’t be surprised to hear, they didn’t make it to our place until three days later. Turns out that the further south you come, the fewer, and slower, electric vehicle chargers become. By the time our new friends got to St. Francisville, they’d visited almost every single one between Pigeon Forge and Natchez.

To take their minds off the question of where to charge their car, I took the visitors fishing. Meanwhile, Louisiana did its best to freak them out with every trick in the summer book. Thunder rumbled, no-see-ums attacked, snakes slithered, fire ants charged, poison ivy was everywhere, and our dogs played tug-of-war with a hapless armadillo they’d flushed from the undergrowth as the Londoners cowered against the pond bank. But then their fifteen-year-old son, Will—a smiling, intelligent boy keen on literature and video games who had possibly never seen grass before, let alone held a fishing pole, landed a five-pound bass which almost

pulled him into the pond. He was, quite literally, hooked. As darkness fell and his parents and I headed back to the house for dinner, Will remained on the pier, transfixed.

But Louisiana wasn’t done. It soon became clear that while fooling about in the pond, one of our dogs, Poppy, had gotten bitten by a snake, probably a moccasin, because her head swelled up to the size and shape of a football. On a Monday night, way out in the country with a houseful of traumatized visitors and a couple of gin and tonics on board, we did the only thing we could: call Aunt Frances, who is the kind of no-nonsense country dog owner who shows up with a bottle of Benadryl at five minutes’ notice. Anyone who tells you country life is boring has never tried to force open the frothing jaws of a pain-crazed, fifty-pound Catahoula mix while an octogenarian lady in a floral dressing gown pokes Benadryl tablets down its gullet. Our visitors, whose prior interactions

with dogs were limited to stepping daintily around deposits left by passing poodles on the manicured avenues of Hamstead Heath, flattened themselves against the walls with eyes like saucers while local friends of our college-aged children shouted encouragement.

In the morning, both dog and Londoners had survived. By first light Poppy’s face had returned to normal, Will was fishing again; and our visitors, far from fleeing in search of the next electric charger, had decided to stay all week. Because there’s that thing a Louisiana summertime does: where at first a visitor can see only the heat and humidity, the bad roads and the snakes and bugs and looming hurricanes, by the time they leave, all that’s been replaced by the golden dawns, the teeming birdlife, the live oaks and Spanish moss and afternoon thunderstorms and the sweet-olive scented, frog-singing night air. They’ve caught fish and swum in creeks, ridden 4-wheelers, chased snakes out of the chicken yard, and drunk beer with people who are practical and generous and exuberant and terrifically weird. Then Louisiana has their hearts. When they got home to London, we got a message of thanks from the mom that finished with the words, “Life’s so dull without snakes!” Perhaps by sending them in summer, Polly knew what she was doing after all.

—James Fox-Smith, publisher james@countryroadsmag.com

A Londoner in Louisiana, getting in touch with his inner redneck

A Special Advertising Feature from Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center

Going the Extra Mile Leaves Patient Forever Grateful

When you’re facing cancer, a random act of kindness from anyone can feel like you’ve won the lottery. But when the act comes straight from your doctor during the holidays, it’s even more powerful.

In October 2022, Suzanne Ruch had a tumor in her breast removed, which conclusively determined she had invasive carcinoma. The married mom, who became a grandmother that same fall, also made plans to also have lymph nodes removed. But after the unexpected retirement of her physician, she needed a new doctor. In stepped Dr. Mindy Bowie, a fellowship-trained breast surgical oncologist and one of greater Baton Rouge’s most well-respected breast surgeons. Dr. Bowie recently joined the Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center team.

“I felt so fortunate to get in with Dr. Bowie,” Suzanne recalled.

With just one week’s notice in late November, Dr. Bowie proceeded with the removal of Suzanne’s lymph nodes and the installation of a chemotherapy port. The surgery was precise and successful, and to this day, Suzanne marvels at how tiny the scar is. But throughout the Thanksgiving holiday, Suzanne recalls that something didn’t feel right.

“On Thanksgiving Day, that area under my arm was filling up, and then it got to be the size of a golf ball,” she said. “It started to look red and purple, and I thought, ‘oh, God, it’s Thanksgiving night. I really don’t want to have to call Dr. Bowie. But I did.”

Suzanne says Dr. Bowie answered immediately. She called out a prescription for Suzanne and made plans to meet her the next morning to drain the wound.

“I said, ‘I’m sure you have plans, it’s the holidays,’” Suzanne said. “And she said, ‘just meet me there.’”

The two met at Dr. Bowie’s office, where Dr. Bowie drained and treated the wound, heading off what could have been a serious infection.

“I apologized again for interrupting her holiday, and she told me, ‘My number-one concern will always be my patients, and knowing you had this brewing, we needed to be on top of it. I’m not going to send you to an ER somewhere to have it drained. It’s my responsibility to do that,’” Suzanne said.

Years earlier, Suzanne had attended a talk Dr. Bowie had given at her church about breast cancer prevention. It was a topic Suzanne took seriously. Her sister died at age 43 of the same type of breast cancer she has now.

Indeed, Dr. Bowie is known for her commitment to early breast cancer detection and innovative treatment techniques. Her specialties include Hidden Scar™ breast surgery, nipple-sparing mastectomies, breast biopsies and oncoplastic breast surgery.

While Dr. Bowie has a well-established reputation for providing her patients with exceptional care, it’s her humanity that Suzanne will always remember.

“That just spoke volumes to me about her character,” Suzanne says. “It gave me such peace of mind.”

Dr. Mindy Bowie

Longue Vue, an American Treasure

THE NEW ORLEANS ARCHITECTURAL ICON IS THE RECEPIENT OF A

The rare woman in American landscape design in the middle part of the twentieth century, Ellen Biddle Shipman harnessed her exceptional horticultural knowledge to create more than 600 landscape designs across the country. Now, one of her majestic layouts has received critical funding and recognition to maintain her storied legacy.

“It’s incredibly validating and part of what’s exciting is what it means for Longue Vue and for New Orleans and for Southern Louisiana,” said Longue Vue Executive Director Dr. Stella Baty Landis. “It’s just really, really a wonderful acknowledgement and just sort of indication that we have something special here. I’m hoping that we’ll become even more of a destination for visitors.”

Longue Vue House and Gardens in New Orleans, historic former home of renowned philanthropists Edith Rosenwald Stern and Edgar Bloom Stern, is the recipient of $327,250 from the National Park Service through its Save America’s Treasures grant program. The nonprofit museum and public garden boasts a Shipman-designed exterior and interior, with her site plan remaining entirely intact to this day. The award will bolster development of the Shipman Collection, an endeavor to conserve and potentially restore Shipman’s design at Longue Vue.

The Sterns, who were drawn to Shipman’s design aesthetic, acted somewhat as artistic patrons for the landscape designer over the decades. Shipman went on to create a sweeping, holistic design vision for both the Longue Vue garden and house. At Longue Vue, you can experience her iconic “garden rooms” that feel as if you are stepping into a coherent, outdoor chamber, her deliberately constructed sightlines subtly drawing the gaze of visitors, and the striking interaction between the interior and exterior design.

“Her site plan is entirely intact,” Landis said. “Eighty percent of the specific garden content is also intact. With this grant, we’ll be able to increase that.”

Grant-funded updates will include, for instance, improving one of Shipman’s sightlines that had been compromised by a pumping apparatus for fountains, which were installed after her death. Landis said the plan is to introduce a low-growth Louisiana native plant garden that will open up the sightline, protect visitors from tripping on pumps, and lean into current climate awareness by fostering sustainability where possible.

According to Landis, Longue Vue has spent recent years retooling its mission and strategic plan to focus on Shipman’s legacy with emphasis on the house and garden as a historically-significant set. The goal is not only to uplift Shipman’s work in the field of landscape architecture, but also to open the experience of the gardens to the broadest possible audience.

“Shipman’s design is still here,” Landis said. “We can experience that today. It’s a piece of history we can literally step into.” longuevue.com.

—Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Preserving Louisiana’s Heritage Live Oaks

ONE PETITION, SIGNATURE, AND LOCAL ORDINANCE AT A TIME

In August, news that a large live oak tree in Gonzales had been felled to make way for a Chick-fil-A restaurant elicited a chorus of calls for stronger regulation to protect Louisiana’s heritage live oaks. The Gonzales oak, which was known by locals as the “Picadilly Tree” for its location on the grounds of a former Picadilly cafeteria, was registered in the Live Oak Society’s database of registered Louisiana live oaks, and judging by its near eighteen-foot girth, could have been as much as two hundred years old when cut. In the aftermath, local Gonzales officials are reportedly considering an ordinance to help protect historic trees, although according to Live Oak Society chairwoman Coleen Perilloux Landry, quoted in an article by Shannon Thornton on the website Unfiltered with Kiran, the fact that Louisiana has not passed any law protecting heritage live oaks places it out of step with several other Southern states. “What we need in Louisiana is a law to protect all the live oaks,” Landry said in the article. “Some parishes and some municipalities have laws, but until we have one overall law in Louisiana, there’s not a lot we can do.”

But Bill Guion, the photographer and writer whose 100 Oaks Project created a photo-documentary of the one hundred oldest live oaks in Louisiana, doesn’t think live oak lovers should wait for the state to act. In a recently updated post on his site named “How to Save a Historic Oak,” Guion describes several treasured Louisiana live oak elders that have been saved from destruction when groups of determined citizens petition local leaders, raising enough public awareness and support to alter developers’ plans. Guion goes on to list steps community

members can take for saving an important tree. They include starting petitions, resources for developing and evaluating tree ordinances, and references to existing ordinances in other cities and towns. Of course, Guion points out, a good first step is to register an important oak with the Live Oak Society, although he notes that while doing so raises awareness as to the historical significance of an elder tree, it does not confer any legal protection. “Unless your community, town, county commission, or other law-making body has created an

ordinance or code to protect elder live oaks or other historic trees, then your oak may have no legal protection from the chainsaws of progress and development,” he writes.

To qualify for Live Oak Society membership, a tree must have a girth, or trunk circumference, of eight feet or greater, when measured four-and-a-half feet above the ground. Find Bill Guion’s photographs of Louisiana’s oldest live oaks, plus his guide to saving them, at 100oaks.blog

—James Fox-Smith

Living Louisiana Legends

Since 1997, the Acadian Museum in Erath has recognized giants of Louisiana culture in all of its facets— from art, to music, to cuisine, to literature, to education, to sports. This year, the museum will add two hnew individuals to its distinguished list of Living Legends.

The Museum’s first new inductee into the Order of Living Legends is Lieutenant Governor Billy Nungesser, who has been a passionate advocate for Louisiana on the international stage. “Billy attended the Congrés Mondial Acadien with us [in August],” said Warren Perrin, the Acadian Museum Chairman of the Board. “His presence was certainly important, to have a leader of the cultural movement of the state there with us.” This is only one example, said Perrin, of how Nungesser has continued to champion the preservation and promotion of French culture in the state.

The second inductee this year is none other than Lafayette’s own hometown hero Armand “Mondo” Duplantis who, in August, captured the world’s attention by winning the Olympic Gold Medal for pole vaulting—breaking his own world record in the process. Three weeks later, he broke that record in Poland. Though he represented Sweden in the Olympics (his mother is from Sweden), Duplantis and his talents are products of Acadian heritage with a lineage that goes directly back to the first arrivals in Louisiana with Beausoleil Broussard.

These new Louisiana Legends will be officially inducted at a gala soiree at the Community Center in Erath’s City Park on November 15 at 6 pm. acadianmuseum.com. —Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

THE ACADIAN MUSEUM BESTOWS ITS ANNUAL AWARD

Getting to the Next Right Thing

ACTRESS, SINGER, AND

STAR PATTI MURIN CALLS FOR CHANGE

F2018, was supposed to be just another work day. Instead, it became a reckoning. The thirty-eight-year-old actress and singer was at the top of her game. She had originated the starring role of Princess Anna in the Broadway production of Disney’s Frozen and, since the musical’s March opening, Murin had been playing to packed houses at New York’s St. James Theatre eight times a week. Then one Tuesday, something inside snapped.

“Twenty minutes before the show I had a panic attack,” Murin recalled. “I said,

‘I can’t do this!’ I called out of the show. My standby went on and was glorious and wonderful, but I had to go home.”

The following day, Murin, who despite having reached the top of her profession, had battled bouts of anxiety and depression, and posted about her experience on Instagram. She admitted to having had a massive anxiety attack and acknowledged the toll the production was taking on her mental health. “I’ve learned that these situations aren’t something to ‘deal with’ or ‘push through,’ she wrote. “Anxiety and depression are real diseases that affect so many of us … Just remember

that you’re not alone, your feelings are real, and this is not your fault. Even princesses are terrified sometimes.”

Murin’s post got a lot of attention. More than a thousand people commented. Hundreds of letters—some from people describing terrible experiences— began arriving at the theatre. “I saved every letter,” she said. “So many people wrote to say, ‘thank you for reaching out.’ I realized that this is so much bigger than me. It got me on my crusade about mental health in the arts and in business, and general life.” In March 2020, when the pandemic brought down the curtain on the Broadway run of Frozen, Murin continued advocating about mental health issues. “I felt like finally I could be a helper, I’d been dealing with it for so long,” she said. “So, when people were having panic attacks and not understanding, I could say ‘I understand this.’ I love to be a resource for another people.”

This month, Patti Murin will bring her crusade to Baton Rouge as keynote speaker for the Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge’s Louisiana Arts Summit. On Friday, October 11, Murin will share stories from her life and career, includ-

ing frank discussion about her personal struggles with anxiety and depression, in a talk titled “The Next Right Thing.” Murin named her presentation for a song sung by Princess Anna, that will be immediately familiar to Frozen fans. “[The song has] become such an anthem for me because it’s about what it means to get from this moment to the next to survive,” she explained. “So, at the conference I’ll talk about a lot of very personal experiences, and I’m going to sing that song.” By doing so as a successful actor, mother, and—let’s face it—a Broadway princess, Murin hopes to further break down the stigma surrounding mental health issues, both in the arts and in everyday life. “Instead of presenting myself as a successful actress, I like to tell stories about what makes me human. And about what makes us, in the arts, human,” she said. “To take it down to the day-to-day, and what I struggle with, that’s what’s important.”

At 6:30 pm on Friday, October 11, Patti Murin will speak at The Old State Capitol in Baton Rouge. Tickets are available to the general public for $10. All are welcome. artsbr.org/summit.

—James Fox-Smith

Photo by Deen Van Meer, courtesy of Patti Murin.

The annual St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival is a weekend-long celebration of the culinary culture of Louisiana and Mississippi with acclaimed chefs, creative wine pairings, cocktail and spirit tastings, craft beer and live entertainment in one of Louisiana’s most beautiful and historic small towns.

Friday, November 8

Jazz Brunch at the St. Francisville Inn Winemaker Dinner at Magnolia Café featuring Eberle Winery

Saturday, November 9

Bubbles and BBQ at North Commerce

Mad Hatter Soirée at the Royal Inn

Sunday, November

IT'S FALL, Y'ALL

SEE SPOOKY SEASON SPECIALS, FROM FEARSOME FRIGHTS TO FAMILY FUN. PLUS BEAUCOUP FALL FESTIVALS FILLED WITH FOOD, MUSIC, & MORE •

UNTIL OCT 6th

MUSIC FESTIVALS

RED RIVER REVEL

Shreveport, Louisiana

Shreveport's Red River Revel welcomes heavy hitting headliners for one of North Louisiana's biggest events of the year at the Festival Plaza. Look forward to performances by Jefferson Starship, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Chapel Hart, Soul Grooves, Frank Foster, T.K. Soul, and many, many more. Discover artists and makers representing virtually every media, and bring the young 'uns, too: the Kids Center offers attractions including a Mock Dino Dig, face painting, and rides. $5 on weekends and weekdays after 5 pm; free Monday–Friday until 5 pm. redriverrevel.com. 1

OCT 1st - OCT 26th

SPOOKY SPECTACULARS

FIFOLET HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The capital area's favorite Halloweenmongers, 10/31 Consortium, are back. Kick things off with a streak of dastardly do-gooding, by donating gently used Halloween costumes and (store-bought, individually-wrapped) candy. The Fifolet Costume and Candy Drive will be held through October 7 at locations all over

Greater Baton Rouge. The Main Library at Goodwood will host the Costume Giveaway Day on Sunday, October 20.

The Fifolet Halloween Festival Pub Crawl is on October 24. Shuffle along to the bars in Downtown Baton Rouge, souvenir cup in hand. Participants will receive special drink discounts. 7 pm. $48.

The Fifolet Halloween Ball—a full-on Monster Mash—takes place on October 25 at the Lod Cook LSU Alumni Center. Live music will be provided by Petty Betty. Costumes encouraged. 8 pm–11:55 pm. $40; $60 for individual seating. Saturday, October 26, brings the height of the celebrations—starting with a 5K. Run it in a costume, or while carrying a pumpkin. 8 am. $15 for Fun Run; $25 for 5K; $35 for Pumpkin 5K. Starts at Riverfront Plaza—where the Arts Market will be well underway, offering plenty of artisan wares and live entertainment for the whole family. Plus, a pumpkin pie eating contest and a pumpkin carving contest. All will conclude with the annual Halloween Parade, featuring local krewes and businesses showcasing their weirdest ideas, and bestowing treats upon all. Starts at 4 pm in downtown Baton Rouge. Get all the details, and information about all access passes ($300) at 1031consortium.com. 1

OCT

GREEN THUMBS

EBR MASTER GARDENERS COMPOSTING & PREPARING FOR WINTER

Zachary, Louisiana

Gardeners eager to prep for winter or catch up on composting will find resources available at Zachary Branch Library for the latest in the East Baton Rouge Master Gardeners series. Master Gardener Bob Dillemuth will guide attendees on how to turn those autumn leaves into the ideal soil additive for your plants by composting, while Advanced Master Gardener Leo Broders will walk you through strategies to keep your favorite plants from withering in the freezing temperatures blowing in soon. 6:30 pm. Free. ebrmg.wildapricot.org. 1

OCT 3rd - OCT 13th

WHODUNIT

CLUE: ON STAGE

Westwego, Louisiana

Just in time for spooky season, Clue: On Stage will premiere at the Westwego Performing Arts Theatre. The classic and comedic "whodunit" is set in a remote estate as mysterious guests gather to attend a curious dinner party. Then . . . their host unexpectedly dies, leaving them

Roddie Romero & the Hub City All Stars perform at Festivals Acadiens et Créoles, Girard Park, Lafayette, in 2023. Don't miss them for this year's celebration on Saturday, October 12. Pictured: Roddie Romero, Sonny Landreth, Derek Huston. For more on Festivals Acadiens et Créoles, see page 32. Photo by David Simpson.

Events

Beginning October 4th - October 5th

all suspects racing to find the killer as the body count rises. It's a murder-mystery farce fans of the 1985 film or board game will enjoy. 7:30 pm Mondays–Saturdays; 2 pm Sundays. $35. jpas.org. 1

OCT 4th PARTIES

ATCHAFALAYA BASINKEEPER 20TH ANNIVERSARY GALA

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The ecological stewardship organization Atchafalaya Basinkeeper—which carries a mission to protect and restore the swamps, lakes, rivers, streams, and bayous of the Basin—is celebrating twenty years in operation. The public is invited to join in a gala event held at the Hilton Capital Center, featuring a performance by Grammy-award winning musician Louis Michot, a screening of the film Majestic Atchafalaya, and talks by Lisa Jordan, Director of Tulane's Environmental Law Clinic, and researcher Dr. Ivor Van Heerden. A keynote address will be given by Marc Yaggi, CEO of the Waterkeeper Alliance. Dinner will be served. 5:30 pm–9 pm. $125. basinkeeper.org. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 6th

FESTIVAL

LA FETE DES

VIEUX TEMPS FESTIVAL

Raceland, Louisiana

Celebrate Cajun culture at La Fete Des Vieux Temps Festival—the "Festival of Old Times." The Bayou Lafourche Festival Association believes Cajun history should and must be passed down to future generations for many years to come. So share in this rich culture at the Lafourche Tourist Center at the intersection of Hwy 90 and Hwy 1 in Raceland, Louisiana. The festival is about bringing back the best elements the old festivals on Bayou Lafourche from many years ago, featuring music, dancing, Cajun food, and an arts & crafts show. This year will include the return of the pirogue races. 6 pm Friday; 10 am Saturday; 9 am Sunday. lacajunbayou.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 6th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

GRETNA HERITAGE FESTIVAL

Gretna, Louisiana

Gretna has deigned to celebrate its history not simply with dusty photographers

and half-remembered tales, but also with an impressive line-up of internationally famous artists (who probably aren't all from Gretna, but we'll look the other way). This year's headliners include Dierks Bentley, the Revivalists, Natasha Bedingfield, Galactic, Cowboy Mouth, and dozens more. Along with tunes, the festival, encompassing twenty-five

city blocks, offers a massive food court featuring dozens of vendors, arts & crafts, rides, and games. Highlights include the Italian, Asian, and Margarita Villages, a Craft Beer tent and German Beer Garden, and a Kids' Corner. $40 per day; $90 for a weekend pass; and various packages to choose from. gretnafest.com. 1

laughter

For life’s moments, big and small. We’re here with the strength of the cross, the protection of the shield. The Right Card. The Right Care.

Louis Michot, a Grammy award-winning fiddle player and singer for Lost Bayou Ramblers, will open the evening at the Atchafalya Basinkeeper 20th Anniversary Gala. Michot harbors a passion for environmental sustainability, as well as Louisiana French and local folklore. Photo provided by Atchafalya Basinkeeper.

OCT 4th - OCT 26th

FALL FAVORITES

HALLOWEEN AT LAKEVIEW

PARK AND BEACH

Eunice, Louisiana

Every weekend in October, Lakeview Park and Beach is the spot to show off your pumpkin carving and decorating skills, the same skills applied to your RV (wait, not the carving!), and to trick and treat around the grounds. lvpark.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 31st

SPOOKY STOPS

NECROMANOR HAUNTED HOUSE

Bossier City, Louisiana

If you're on the prowl for a genuinely terrifying Halloween experience in North Louisiana, look no further than Bossier City's NecroManor, as it enters its tenth year of giving fright-happy adults jump-scares and screams for their money. $15 on Fridays and Saturdays; $10 on Sundays. autumnfrights.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 31st

EERIE EXPERIENCES

THE 13TH GATE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

There's a reason Travel Channel called the 13th Gate "One of America's scariest Halloween attractions." They aren't the only ones who think so, and you'll likely agree with the experts as you make your way through thirteen different rooms, where a variety of your greatest fears will come to life and haunt you. From exploring an old, abandoned asylum, to being lost in dark underground tunnels or even finding yourself standing on a rickety bridge overlooking hundreds of live snakes, this 40,000 square foot haunted house is definitely not recommended for the faint of heart (nor is it recommended for anyone who is pregnant, has a pre-existing heart condition, is very young, or has a weak bladder.) $35 ; $75 VIP. 6:30–11:30 pm. Details at 13thgate.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 31st

HAUNTED HIKES

FRIGHT TRAIL

Lafayette, Louisiana

The woods outside of Lafayette are full of things that go bump in the night. Are you brave enough to wander through them? Find out on the Fright Trail, founded by Literacy Inc., the nonprofit dedicated to fighting the growing illiteracy rate in America's teens. Through twenty miles of deep, dark, haunted woods, wanderers might run into any sort of bump in the night—the creators pull out all the stops for this outdoor open house: props, animatronics, displays, sets, and scare

actors galore. How fast can you run? Due to the outdoor nature of the event no open-toed shoes, high heels, or flip-flops; old shoes or boots are recommended. Not recommended for children under eight years of age, children under ten years of age must be accompanied by an adult. Friday and Saturday nights from 7 pm–11 pm. $30; $40 for Saturday Frights Without Lights. frighttrail.com. 1

OCT

4th

- OCT 31st

EERIE EXPERIENCES

NEW ORLEANS NIGHTMARE

New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans's largest indoor haunted house opens its doors—screams pouring out—for yet another year. Presented by the world's largest Halloween-inspired entertainment company, Thirteenth Floor Entertainment, the terrifying experience promises high-quality frights, as always. Visit neworleansnightmare.com for varying ticket prices and start times. 1

OCT

5th

FALL FAVORITES

OLDE TOWNE PUMPKIN

FESTIVAL

Slidell, Louisiana

Face painting and pumpkins are the mark of any good fall gathering, and the Olde Towne Pumpkin Fest is no exception. At the First United Methodist Church, kids can carve and decorate a pumpkin, get their cheeks bedaubed, explore a fire truck and SWAT vehicle, or dig into a pile of hay. Proceeds benefit East St. Tammany Rainbow Child Care Center. 11 am–4 pm. Free, with some ticketed events costing $1. louisiananorthshore.com. 1

OCT 5th

HERITAGE & HISTORY

CREOLE CULTURE

DAY & EXHIBIT

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Louisiana Creole Culture invites folks across Acadiana to celebrate the rich heritage of the region's Creole communities. The festival is designed as an immersion into the world of traditional Creole life, starting with a live boucherie, linguistic activities like Creole French Bingo, demonstrations of classic Creole crafts and dishes, line dancing lessons, genealogy presentations, and live music by Dr. Boogie Live, Zydeco Roux, and David Sylvester. 10 am–4 pm at Town Hall Park in Grand Coteau. An exhibition at Lafayette City Hall Atrium will feature portraits taken by Milton Arceneaux of twenty Creole honorees from Acadiana's eight-parish region selected by the community for their contributions to sustaining and enriching local culture. Free. creoleculture.com. 1

Visit The Northshore, where the sunshine dances, the music twinkles, easy escapes are shore to be had.

Events

Beginning October 5th

OCT 5th

GALLERIES GALORE

ART FOR ART'S SAKE

New Orleans, Louisiana

The Magazine Street Merchants' Association's Art for Art's Sake is the Arts District-wide gallery hop that marks the opening of the city’s arts season and has traditionally been New Orleans’s largest art event of the year, bringing tens of thousands of people. Throughout the Warehouse Arts District (centered on Julia Street), approximately twenty galleries and museums will dazzle visitors with exhibits of contemporary art. Alongside the galleries, cash bars and food outposts operate up and down the Julia Street corridor. neworleans.com. 1

OCT 5th

FESTIVAL

FEDERALES FEST 2024

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Gear up for fun times with Federales Fest, filled with good food, live music, and more. Come by Live Oak @ Cedar Lodge to hear music from an all-star

lineup, including Biscuits & Gravy, Dragon Smoke, Whitey Morgan and the 78's, Daniel Donato's Cosmic Country, and more. Part of all proceeds will benefit Be Positive, a non-profit. Noon–11 pm. $75; $200 for VIP, which includes complimentary food & alcohol; Free for kids 16 and under. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT

5th

FALL FAVORITES

ANTIQUE VILLAGE

FALL FESTIVAL

Denham Springs, Louisiana

Denham Springs' Antique Village Fall Festival is one of the largest continuallyrun festivals in Livingston Parish. More than 150 vendors will crowd into the city's famous antique district bringing the best in crafts, antiques, and art— including collectibles, children's clothes, jewelry, ironworks, and pottery, among other selections. Stroll down Mattie Street, or “Art Avenue,” and hear live music at the Old Train Depot Stage.

9 am–4:30 pm. Free. denhamspringsantiquedistrict.com. 1

OCT

5th

ARTS & CRAFTS

PERKINS ROWE

ARTS FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Perkins Rowe once again presents its annual Arts Fest. The Baton Rouge Arts Market will bring with it fine arts from local, regional, and national artists. There will be live music performances by the Florida Street Blowhards, Louisiane Vintage Dancers, School of Rock Baton Rouge, and Lee Serio Band. Free. 10 am–7 pm. perkinsrowe.com. 1

OCT 5th

INKLINGS

19TH ANNUAL JAMBALAYA WRITERS’ CONFERENCE

Houma, Louisiana

Writers and readers are invited to the Terrebonne Parish Library for a glimpse into the world of literary publishing at this free conference. Presenters include Adrian Van Young, Folwell Dunbar, Abram Himelstein, Emma C. Wells, and the Southern Writers’ Workshop. New Orleanian Maurice Carlos Ruffin, awardwinning author of We Cast a Shadow and national bestseller The American Daughters will give the keynote address. 1 pm. Schedule at mytpl.org. 1

OCT 5th

PERFORMANCE

LOUDHOUSE X ARCHIVES EXHIBITION

Lafayette, Louisiana

Two outside-the-lines arts organizations in Acadiana are coming together this fall to present a night of "unparalleled artistic wonder" in downtown Lafayette. ARCHIVES is a new exhibition series that coordinates and curates unconventional group shows, celebrating area artists of all experience levels. Likewise, Loudhouse Projects is a cohort of more than twenty artists with a mission of pushing Lafayette's art scene past its boundaries, exploring experimental expressions of art in all its forms. This October, the two groups have partnered to stage a two-part surrealistic experience in the Chase Tower in downtown Lafayette. Layering themes of self, belief, and identity—the show begins with Loudhouse's multi-room installation, designed to stimulate all five senses, which will lead into Archives' debut showcase, featuring fine art from over twenty local artists. Guests will be allowed inside for one-hour increments beginning from 5 pm–6 pm, and ongoing until 9 pm–10 pm. $25. archivesexhibitions.org. loudhouseprojects.com. 1

October

October

Events

Beginning October 5th- October 6th

OCT 5th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

LEBANESE FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

For the second year, St. Sharbel Maronite Catholic Church of Baton Rouge will host a celebration of Lebanese culture in Baton Rouge, featuring savory and sweet Lebanese food, music, dancing, and other activities. This year's event will take place at the Goodwood Main Library from 10 am–8 pm. lebanesefestivalbr@outlook.com. 1

OCT 5th

LIVE MUSIC

BLUESBERRY FESTIVAL

Covington, Louisiana

Spend a day celebrating the blues at the Bluesberry Music + Art Festival at Downtown Covington’s riverside Bogue Falaya Park. Headlined by Texas bluesrock singer/songwriter and guitarist Ally Venable, the festival will also showcase music from Louisiana Music Hall of Fame inductee Jonathon "Boogie" Long, Blues Foundation Award winner and guitarist Laurie Morvan, Austin-based guitarist, singer, and songwriter Gary Cain, and

South Louisiana roots/blues musician

Josh Garrett. Other regional musicians include Jourdan Blue, Christian Butler, Julian Primeaux, Molly Taylor, and the Gospel Hour. The day will also involve art demonstrations, artists selling original work, an interactive painting experience, & a Children's Village. 11:30 am–9 pm. $25 online; $30 at gate; Free for children 10 and below. thebluesberryfest.com. 1

OCT 5th - OCT 6th

FALL FAVORITES

HARVEST DAYS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Harvest Days at the LSU Rural Life Museum is an opportunity to understand what life on the farm would have looked, sounded, and felt like in nineteenthcentury rural Louisiana. Experience living history demonstrations that include plowing, blacksmithing, soap and candle making, timber framing, open hearth cooking, sheep herding, and boat making, as well as period music and dancing. 9 am–4:30 pm on the grounds of the LSU Rural Life Museum. Regular admission prices apply. lsu.edu/rurallife. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 5th - OCT 6th

FOOD FESTIVAL

NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

If you saw "Fried Chicken Festival" and thought, "Oooh, I've got to check that out ..." you're not alone. Come to the New Orleans Lakefront at Franklin Avenue this weekend to celebrate the almighty fried bird. Favorite local restaurants like Bonafried, Alma, and Bao Mi; plus others from across the country will be in attendance slinging their fried chicken delicacies and more—which will then be up for awards like "Best Fried Chicken" and "Best Use of Fried Chicken in a Dish". Plus, be sure to catch the usual festival fare—live music, a vendor marketplace, and a family zone to entertain the whole family throughout the day. 11 am–9 pm both days. $15 general admission. friedchickenfestival.com. 1

OCT 5th - OCT 6th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

ROBERT'S COVE GERMANFEST

Rayne, Louisiana

Held on the grounds of St. Leo IV Catholic Church, the Roberts Cove Germanfest offers live entertainment, authentic German food, a large selection of German beer on tap, folklore

demonstrations, and a Kinderland (kiddie area)—just a few of the attractions scheduled for this year's festival. Don't forget to visit the quaint, diverting German Heritage Museum. $8; free for children younger than thirteen. robertscovegermanfest.com. 1

OCT 5th - OCT 6th

GREEN THUMBS

LSU HILLTOP ARBORETUM PLANTFEST!

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Dust off your gardening gloves: the LSU Hilltop Arboretum's annual PLANTFEST! returns. Comb through more than 300 species of native and traditional trees, shrubs, perennials, ferns, vines, and more—all sourced from trusted local nurseries. "Plant experts" will be available to assist eager gardeners with their selections and future yard plans. A children's tent will offer craft and fall-ish activities for any little ones that tag along. 9 am–4 pm Saturday; noon–4 pm Sunday. lsu.edu/hilltop. 1

OCT 5th - OCT 8th

FALL FAVORITES

CORN MAZE AT LSU AGCENTER BOTANIC GARDENS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The LSU AgCenter Botanic Gardens

Upcoming Events

#RobertosRiverRoadRestaurant

at Burden invite parents to lose track of their little ones for just a bit while they let the kids try to find their way through the traditional fall corn maze (don't worry, the scarecrows have an eye out for 'em). On Corn Maze Saturdays, besides navigating the maze of maize, you can romp around a haystack mountain, pick a pumpkin, visit the petting zoo, or join the hayride around the property. Sessions from 9 am–11 am, noon–2 pm, and 2:30 pm–4:30 pm. Save a few tricks and treats

for the Night Maze on October 26, 6 pm–9 pm. $15; free for children two and under. lsuagcenter.com. 1

OCT

5th - OCT 27th

EERIE EXPERIENCES

FRIGHTMARE ON MAIN STREET

New Iberia, Louisiana

New Iberia's downtown gets a creepy takeover in time for Halloween—each weekend in October leading up to

At the heart of the University of Louisiana at Lafayette (ULL) lies the only managed wetland on a university campus in the United States. A former bison wallow created over eons as passing herds paused in the shade of a cypress grove, the resulting depression was known as a trou de taureau, or “bull hole” by early Cajun settlers. After the Southwestern Louisiana Institute (now ULL) opened in 1900, this cypress grove was put to various uses, included as a pigpen, and later as an outdoor theatre, before being intentionally flooded during World War II to provide a water source in case of campus fires. Today, Cypress Lake endures as a two-acre sanctuary in the midst of the busy campus—a place of respite, where alligators glide beneath emerald green cypress canopy, turtles sun themselves on fallen logs; and faculty, students, and visitors pause to reflect and replenish in tranquil surroundings that embody the very essence of Acadiana.

None of this happens by accident. The Cypress Lake that visitors see today is a carefully managed ecosystem. Responsibility for its wellbeing is shared between ULL’s Office of Facilities Management, Student Union, and Office of Sustainability. Working together, these groups work to weed out invasive species like cattails, privet, and yellow flag

the big day, the Historic Hot Sauce House on Main Street provides a spooky backdrop for a trail of frights, where sets and live scare actors await. 7 pm–11 pm the last three Fridays and the last four Saturdays in October. $20. frightmareonmainstreet.com. 1

OCT 6th

PERFORMANCES

MALEVO: A THUNDEROUS ARGENTINE SPECTACLE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Argentine dance and percussion ensemble MALEVO takes to the stage at the Manship Theatre with thrilling choreography and exhilarating rhythms, merging the avant-garde with tradition to create a spectacle that will be sure to leave audiences enthralled. The full-on sensory experience, set to thunderous drums, has become a global phenomenon, with the group performing in far-flung locations such as Dubai and Paris. 7 pm. $35–$55. manshiptheatre.org. 1

OCT 6th

FALL FAVORITES

MAGNOLIA MOUND PUMPKIN PATCH

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

You don’t have to go far this fall to find

irises, and to support the lake’s abundant turtles, alligators, bullfrogs, bass, bream, garfish, and numerous species of resident and migratory birds. According to Gretchen Vanicor, Director of the Office of Sustainability, the lake is even home to a fifty-pound snapping turtle estimated to be between forty and sixty years old, although no-one is really sure how it got there.

Vanicor noted that, besides being a unique feature of campus life, Cypress Lake also serves as an outdoor classroom. Biology classes use the lake environs as a living lab, in which students learn to identify various species, and where visitors interested in green infrastructure and supporting pollinator habitats can gather information. Currently the Office of Sustainability is installing signage that will provide detailed information about the species to be found there.

While Cypress Lake serves as a beloved gathering point for ULL faculty and students, it also draws visitors looking to experience a tranquil swamp ecosystem in the midst of an urban area. The University partners with groups like the Society for Louisiana Irises, which is working with ULL’s Ira Nelson Horticulture Center to preserve and propagate the Abbeville Red Iris (Iris Nelsonii). According to Vanicor, this rare, native species only occurs naturally in a small area

the perfect pumpkin. With the help of the East Baton Rouge Master Gardeners, the selection at the Magnolia Mound Pumpkin Patch will be just ripe for the picking. After a stroll through the patch, stick around to tour the historic home and enjoy the festivities. Noon–4 pm. Free, just pay for your pumpkin. friendsofmagnoliamound.org. 1

OCT 6th

SOMETHING SWEET SUGARFEST

Port Allen, Louisiana

The West Baton Rouge Museum returns with its annual SugarFest, a sweet celebration of the sugar cane harvest that has twice been named a Top Twenty Southeastern Tourism event. This is a full day of family-oriented activities, live music, and hordes of kids in the throes of a massive sugar rush. This old-fashioned good time sports attractions like a muledriven cane grinder in action, praline making, blacksmithing, woodworking, and other historic craft demonstrations; Louisiana musicians perform Dixieland jazz, spirituals, folk, Cajun/zydeco, and blues; there are hands-on activities for the kiddos, sugar-related exhibits inside the museum, wagon rides, and fresh sugar cane to gnaw on. The sweets contest takes

near Abbeville, Louisiana. Since March, 2020, volunteers have conducted four plantings of Abbeville Red Irises, in the process making Cypress Lake one of the best sites in Louisiana to experience this rare and beautiful native en masse.

If You Go: No need to be a student or faculty member; visitors are welcome to visit Cypress Lake anytime. Visit in early April to catch the vibrant Abbeville Reds in bloom, or in November, when the lake’s cypress canopy paints the ULL campus in fiery fall colors. Also, be sure to visit the statue of Dr Edwin Stevens, first president of the university and the founder of the Live Oak Society. The large live oak directly south of the lake was planted in his honor.

To Learn More: sustainability.louisiana.edu/about-us/ cypress-lake

Pictured above is an artist performing Loudhouse's 2023 immersive group installation, Link Rot

This year, Loudhouse and Archives Exhibitions will partner to present a night of unparalleled artistic talent in Lafayette, featuring more than forty artists. The two-part experience in the Chase Tower in downtown Lafayette will layer themes of self, identity, and belief in a two-part surrealistic experience.

Photo provided by Loudhouse. See pg. 14.

A Visit to Cypress Lake

Article Sponsored by Bob’s Tree Preservation

Photo credit: UL Lafayette, Doug Dugas

Events

Beginning October 9th- October 10th

See the above

and other pieces at The

Southern

, a  photography exhibition featuring over forty gelatin silver prints Lee made while traveling across the South in the 1980s. Portraits of Black Americans, as well as landscapes and cityscapes that capture the Reagan-era South, feature prominently in the exhibition.October 5, 2024–February 16, 2025.

the flavor up a notch with homemade sugary cakes, candies, cookies, and cupcakes. Ever wanted to enter grandma's cake recipe in a good, old-fashioned sweets contest? Here's your chance. Oh, and—naturally—a rum tasting. 11 am–4 pm at the museum. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.com. 1

OCT

9th

MUSIC

LPO PERFORMS

HAYDN'S "THE CLOCK"

New Orleans, Louisiana

As part of the inaugural season of The New Marigny Theatre—a performing arts and education center on Marais Street—join the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Matthew Kraemer, at the Marigny Opera House for a performance of the Pulitzer Prizewinning composer Michael Abels' Delights and Dances, followed by a Bachian Brazilian composition from composer Heitor Villa-Lobos. The show will conclude with Haydn's Clock Symphony. 6 pm–8 pm. $45. lpomusic.com. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 12th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

ZWOLLE TAMALE FIESTA

Zwolle, Louisiana

The fun begins here with simply saying the event's name out loud: Zwolle. Tamale. See? You're enjoying yourself already, and there's way more where that came from. For three days, the Zwolle Tamale Fiesta celebrates the Spanish and Native American heritage of the town's

residents with arts & crafts, dancing, a car show, a trail ride, children's activities, parades, and—oh, yes—tamales. Cultures collide in an effort to cook up the most delicious tamale. zwolletamalefiesta.com for a full schedule and directions to the Zwolle Fairgrounds. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 13th

ART OUTDOORS

FARM TO FOREST

PLEIN AIR FESTIVAL

Alexandria, Louisiana

For four days in the middle of October, artists will scatter throughout the heart of Alexandria, capturing en plein air its stunning natural environs. For this year's Farm to Forest Plein Air Festival, hosted by the Alexandria Museum of Art, painters from all over the country will be in town to participate in a series of arts-focused events interspersed with the most valuable gift of all: time and space to paint. Many events are open to the public, in addition to the visiting juried artists. Thursday will kick things off with a Porch Crawl, wherein the public can stroll the Garden District while observing the painters in action during the two-hour timed Quick Paint Challenge. Non-juried artists are invited to participate in the competition as well, as a Community Artist. Participants of both camps will be set up in a designated area with a stamped blank canvas or paper and their supplies; painting will begin at the sound of the first horn, and end upon the sound of the second. Finished works can be sold off the easel or submitted for inclusion in the museum's exhibition. A catered farm-to-

"Untitled" by Baldwin Lee, c. mid-1980s. Vintage gelatin silver print. Collection of the artist.

photograph

Ogden Museum of

Art, showcasing Baldwin Lee

EXHIBITIONS

Mitoloji Latannyèr/ Mythologies Louisianaises

A COLLECTION OF ART AND STORYTELLING, WITH A FOUNDATION

ENTRENCHED IN LOUISIANA'S HERITAGE LANGUAGES

By Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Stepping through the gallery entrance at Baton Rouge's Capitol Park Museum for the exhibition Mitoloji Latannyèr / Mythologies Louisianaises, visitors are abruptly transported into a haze of Louisiana’s bayous, replete with ambient swamp sounds, moody green walls, and visions of towering trees and palmettos overlaid against the single window in the exhibition space.

Then, there are the voices. A disembodied cacophony echoes across the dimly lit gallery, louder the further in you drift, reciting poetry, folktales, and local myths in various languages. The tide of telling swells, at times surging together and then breaking apart into individual recitations as you approach specific exhibits.

This tangled hum of Louisianaspecific languages against the aural backdrop of a lively swamp is the evocative concept at the heart of Mitoloji Latannyèr / Mythologies Louisianaises, an exhibition currently on display at the Capitol Park

Museum through December of this year. Curated by Jonathan “radbwa faroush” Mayers, a Louisiana Creole visual artist, writer, and language activist, the exhibition features more than forty artworks accompanied by texts displayed in Louisiana and International French, Kouri-Vini (Louisiana Creole), and English, plus a special tale in Tunica.

Mayers, whose artwork and poetry are also featured in the exhibition, plays on the themes of loss and grief with his selections—a dispossession of language, land, and self he argues have arisen from the forced Americanization of different Louisiana cultural groups. The selections of art and writings reflect the fears and rage associated with environmental devastation; there are calls for social justice, bids for freedom, and desperate hangingson to pasts and people that no longer exist. These motifs are retold and reclaimed through Louisiana’s heritage languages, repossessing identities often rendered taboo by assimilation.

Clipped But the Roots Remained,” by Lafayette artist Chase Julien. It depicts a young girl—presumably of Creole heritage—seated, reading a book with a disgruntled expression while her black hair, partially composed of a vining flower in vivid purple hues, is trimmed by light-skinned hands.

Other artwork leans into the aura of myth that permeates Louisiana culture. The story of “Le Loup-Garou,” written by New Orleans-raised writer Beverly Matherne, tells the tale of misbehaving children cast out of their home in the Atchafalaya Swamp at night and brought face-to-face with the monstrous werewolf. It is accompanied by a hulking mixed media artwork by New Orleans artist Demond Matsuo titled “Loup Garou,” featuring the fearsome creature against a pitch-black backdrop, a ghostly skeleton looming above.

“For me, what inspires me about my art is really the culture that we live in here in Louisiana and also our heritage languages and what comes with that,” said Mayers. “Whether that be identity and understanding our sense of place and the space we live in, but also our views of the world. I find that understanding our heritage languages and speaking them and using them in public spaces also gives us a voice that we can be proud of.”

One of the first works on display is a poem by Lafayette spoken word artist Alex “PoeticSoul” Johnson titled, “Mo Kréyol (I am Creole)” which describes her grandmother’s shame for her native tongue of Kouri-Vini, a language she refused to pass down to her granddaughter. The rejection ultimately erased a critical part of their Creole identity, though it survived in other ways, the poem suggests, such as through the sanctity of oral tradition and shared knowledge of cooking practices. The poem is paired with a painting titled “The Flowers Were

In another piece by Mayers himself, a poetic short story is paired with a painting by the same name: "Cornes de Brouillasse venant du Lac Péigneur (Foghorns on Lake Peigneur)”. The story tells of the 1980 environmental disaster in Lake Peigneur, north of Delcambre, when a TEXACO oil drill bit struck a salt dome, leading to a whirlpool that swallowed eleven barges. In his fictional version of the story, he writes of careless government workers in 2015 attempting to disrupt the lake again, leading to a giant, mythic monster of salt and mud rising from the water and hurling a tugboat and two barges onto land. The accompanying acrylic painting, created with Lake Peigneur sediment and suspended over a draped fish net, captures the moment the gargantuan, sharp-toothed mud monster rises from the impossibly blue lake and tosses the three offending vessels across the water.

The ever-present past, along with a compulsion to relive it and reinscribe it in an effort to regain control over its failures, also features prominently in the exhibition. In one notable coupling, Beverly Matherne’s poem “Pentimento de Vivien” tells of a husband who paints his dead wife over and over again on the same canvas, desiring that she grow old with him on paper. The side-by-side painting by New Orleans artist Elise Toups, titled “Arthur and Ernestine, Pentimento on Dauphine,” captures Arthur at work in his yard, painting his long-dead wife as ghostly versions of her face and body populate the canvas in bold, rich colors in a surreal scene of a joyful haunting. First displayed in part in 2018 at Arthur Roger Gallery in New Orleans, Mitoloji Latannyèr / Mythologies Louisianaises came to the

Demond Matsuo. Loup Garou. Mixed media on canvas. 2018. Image Credit: Mike Smith.

Capitol Park Museum in October 2023.

Mayers hopes a third iteration of the exhibition—an expansion—will one day come to life, and that the exhibition will remove some of the stigma around heritage languages and foster appreciation for Louisiana identities pushed to the margins. Already, educational programs in partnership with the exhibition focusing on these languages have begun to revive and celebrate the languages on display, such as a Kouri-Vini immersion program held this past summer.

“Never be afraid to speak and present your language in public, in front of people who may be scared of what they don’t know,” Mayers said. “And also in artwork, always share your interests and help to create the world that you want to see, rather than just allowing everything to be as is. Because art and literature can be catalysts for change and healing, too.” •

Mitoloji Latannyèr/Mythologies Louisianaises will be on display at the Capitol Park Museum in Baton Rouge through December. See more of Mayers's work at jonathanmayers.com.

Jonathan “radbwa faroush” Mayers. Corne de brouillasse venant du lac Peigneur (Foghorns on Lake Peigneur). Acrylic and Lake Peigneur sediment on paper, fishnet. 2018. Image Credit: Kevin Duffy.

Elise Toups. Arthur and Ernestine, Pentimento on Dauphine. Mixed media on canvas. 2018. Image Credit: Mike Smith.

Events

Beginning October 11th - October 12th

table dinner will follow. Friday will bring a plein air watercolor workshop with this year's juror Richie Vios and Sunday will culminate with the Palette Party event at 4 pm. farmtoforestpleinair.com. 1

OCT 11th

MUSIC

BACHTOBERFEST 2024

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Celebrate a delightful blend of Oktoberfest and the music of Johann Sebastian Bach with the aptly named Bachtoberfest, held at the Main Library at Goodwood. Returning for its eighth year, Bachtoberfest kicks off the 20242025 Lamar Family Chamber Series and includes performances of Baroque music with beer, brats, and a family-friendly outdoor setting. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $30. Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra Box Office: (225) 383-0500 or at brso.org. 1

OCT 11th - OCT 12th

FALL FESTIVAL

ABITA FALL FEST

Abita Springs, Louisiana

Abita Springs brings in the season with

its annual fall festival, featuring four stages, with a lineup that includes Tab Benoit, Dwayne Dopsie & the Zydeco Hellraisers, Alana Springsteen, Milk and the Honeys, The Abita Stumps, and the Boston Street Ceili Band. There will also be food and drink vendors, a Kid's Zone, a "Pumpkin Stage" featuring a magic show, princess party, and juggler, a tailgate, wine garden, and an arts and crafts market. $25 for Saturday-only tickets; $15 for kids ages 3–10; After Dark Friday night pass (5 pm–10 pm) is $20. Weekend pass (online only) is $40. VIP (Saturday) is $90; Tickets are $10 more at the gate. abitafallfest.com. 1

OCT 11th - OCT 13th

MUSIC FESTIVAL

CRESCENT CITY

BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

Powered by the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation, the Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival celebrates Southern soul with legendary local and international blues and R&B talent, plus the greatest assemblage of home-style

barbecue to be found within the city limits. Come for performances by Lil Ed & the Blues Imperials, Irma Thomas & the Professionals, Leyla McCalla, Kenny Neal, Marcia Ball, Sue Foley, Nikki Hill, James Cotton Tribute with Mark Hummel & Steve Freund, Chris Thomas

King, Eric Lindell, Little Freddie King, and more. What's even more ridiculous than getting all these folks in one place is that it's free to watch. At Lafayette Square Park. 5:30 pm–8:30 pm Friday; 11 am–8:30 pm Saturday and Sunday. crescentcitybluesfest.com. 1

Dancers at the Lakeview Park & Beach dancehall at the 2022 Black Pot Camp—an event that will take place this year from October 20–25 in the lead up to Black Pot Festival on October 25–26. Read more on page 35. Photo by David Simpson.

OCT 11th - OCT 13th

MUSIC FESTIVAL

FESTIVALS

ACADIENS ET CRÉOLES

Lafayette, Louisiana

Festivals Acadiens et Créoles is returning to pay tribute to the music, food, and arts passed down since the arrival of the Acadian pioneers 250 years ago—this year with an emphasis on its own origins at the seminal Tribute to Cajun Music that took place fifty years ago. Focusing on inter-generational connections and passing tradition from one generation to the next, this year's festival theme is "50 ans et demain" or "50 Years and Tomorrow". Non-stop cultural immersion includes the Bayou Food Festival, Louisiana Crafts Fair, workshops, cooking demonstrations, the Tour des Atakapas 5k, 10k, or duathlon, and a French Mass. There will also be multiple stages of live music, kicking off Friday night with a recreation of the original 1974 Tribute concert by mentees and legacies of the original performers. Throughout the rest of the weekend, expect performances by the likes of Balfa Toujours, CJ Chenier & the Red Hot Louisiana Band, The Revelers, Beausoleil avec Michael Doucet, Corey Ledet Zydeco, Amis du Teche, the Holiday Playgirls, and many more. This year will hold a special emotional resonance as musicians remember two

important members of the Cajun/Creole music community who were lost last year, Jo-El Sonnier and Chris Stafford. 5 pm–8:30 pm Friday, 10:30 am–8 pm Saturday, 10:30 am–7:30 pm Sunday. Free. festivalsacadiens.com See pages 32 and 33 for more details on the origins of the festival. 1

OCT

11th - OCT 13th

FOOD FESTIVAL

LOUISIANA GUMBO FESTIVAL

Chackbay, Louisiana

The small Cajun community of Chackbay continues to earn its title (proclaimed by Edwin Edwards himself) as "Gumbo Capital of Louisiana" while celebrating its annual festival, which cooks up over five hundred gallons of gumbo over the course of a weekend. Organizers promise the best in Cajun food, music, and dancing along with a live auction, parade, and raffle. Musical acts include the Shorts in December, Tet Fur, Ryan Foret, and JP Bourgeois, plus plenty more. Free. lagumbofest.com. 1

OCT 11th - OCT 25th

SINISTER STROLLS

HAUNTED HIKES AT THE SWAMP

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Bluebonnet Swamp Nature Center

hosts its popular, not-so-scary hikes again this year. At Halloween, the nature center trades scares and screams for laughter and learning for kids of all ages, presenting treats along the trails and programs about snakes, insects, rats, and other maligned critters for a seasonal educational session. Track down costumed characters to receive “treasures,” then trek through the Haunted Maze to the Education Building for carnival games, arts and crafts, a Creepy Cavern, and more; but don't worry, there are no scare tactics used. Kids can wear costumes and should bring flashlights. Activities start at 6 pm, trails open at dark. $6 for adults; $8 for children ages three and older. brec.org. 1

OCT 12th

NIGHT LIGHTS

THE SPOOKY SPECTRUM

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Discover the spooky side of astronomy at BREC’s Highland Road Park Observatory. Come visit on this moonless night—if you dare—as HRPO delves into the eerie side of astronomy, physics, and aeronautics. They'll have creepy science demonstrations and stories about strange sky phenomena—and perhaps extra dimensions, and extraterrestrials. 6 pm–10 pm. brec.org/observatory. 1

OCT 12th

ANIMAL AFFAIRS

WILD THINGS FESTIVAL

Lacombe, Louisiana

Wild enough at any time of year, the 110-acre Bayou Lacombe Center in Lacombe becomes particularly so each October, when the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and The Friends of Louisiana Wildlife Refuges present the annual Wild Things festival. More than forty guest organizations and individuals come to share nature and conservationthemed displays, presentations and hands-on activities in celebration of National Wildlife Refuge Week. Children can build a birdhouse, learn how to canoe, see live animals, fish for prizes in the casting pond, take a pontoon boat ride of the Bayou, enjoy a variety of exhibits and hands-on activities, see Louisiana native animals, and more. The whole idea is to provide opportunities for guests to connect with nature, wildlife, and the things that make south Louisiana special, with an emphasis on fostering appreciation of the state's many fantastic creatures and what they have to offer. 10 am–4 pm at the Bayou Lacombe Center. Free. fws.gov/event/wild-things. 1

OCTOBER EXHIBITS

Artwork:

Artwork:

Events

Beginning

October 12th - October 16th

OCT 12th

SINISTER STROLLS

SHREVEPORT-BOSSIER

CITY ZOMBIE WALK

Bossier City, Louisiana

Get ghouled up and ready to prowl for brains at the Bossier Arts Council's annual Halloween Festival for a good cause, this year with the theme "Little Pet Shoppe of Horrors." Expect a macabre vendor market, creative costume contests, door prizes, live music, games, food trucks, and much more. Proceeds will go to support the Food Bank of Northwest Louisiana. LifeShare Blood Center will be on site taking blood donations. 4 pm–9 pm in East Bank Plaza. Details on the SBC Zombie Walk Facebook Event. 1

OCT

12th

MARKETS

SHADOWS ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR

New Iberia, Louisiana

Among the giant oaks on the winding banks of the Teche, attendees at this twice-annual arts & crafts fair can pick up one-of-a-kind items from over one hundred vendors from around the state.

From crocheted items to bath products and tea-dyed chenille bunnies, this market has it all. And of course there will be plenty of food, drink, and dessert. 9 am–4 pm. Admission is $5 per person ($3 for children ages 6–17; under 6 get in free). shadowsontheteche.org. 1

OCT 12th

ARTS & CRAFTS

FALL FOR ART

Covington, Louisiana

Welcome the start of autumn with the annual Fall for Art celebration in downtown Covington. The event features music, performing arts, and a sprawling art market along Columbia Street sure to delight. Expect attendees eager to enjoy the arts extravaganza produced by the St. Tammany Art Association. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. sttammany.art. 1

OCT 12th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

LOUISIANA

ART AND FOLK FESTIVAL

Columbia, Louisiana

Back for its 67th year, the Louisiana Art

and Folk Festival—the longest-running art festival in the state—welcomes everyone to experience regional art, a car show, a petting zoo, folklife demonstrations, live music, amazing food, and so much more on historic Columbia's Main Street. 10 am–4 pm. Free. Details at the Louisiana Art and Folk Festival Facebook Page. 1

OCT 12th - OCT 13th

FOOD FESTIVAL

WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

GUMBO COOKOFF

New Iberia, Louisiana

Can anyone's gumbo be better than ya mama's? A few upstarts in Iberia Parish may think so at this annual World Championship Gumbo Cookoff, held in Bouligny Plaza. The Greater Iberia Chamber of Commerce will host the festivities, which will feature music, family fun, and plenty of food; marking the return of the "Wizard of Roux." Saturday will be the 5K Roux Run, followed by the Creole Food Fest (where everything except gumbo will be served), and the Meanest Beans Cookoff. Sunday is the big day of the "Battle of the Rouxs," where over seventy-five teams will compete for the honor of World's Best Gumbo. 8 am–10 pm

Saturday; 10 am–3 pm Sunday. Free. iberiachamber.org/gumbocookoff. 1

OCT

15th - OCT 20th

THEATRE

"GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY" AT THE SAENGER

New Orleans, Louisiana

Set in Duluth, Minnesota in the 1930s, Girl from the North Country follows a group of travelers who cross paths in a guesthouse filled with music, finding life and hope along the way. Showing at the Saenger Theatre for six days only, the performance reimagines twenty Bob Dylan songs, including "Slow Train Coming" and "Like a Rolling Stone."

7:30 pm Tuesday–Thursday; 8 pm Friday; 2 pm and 8 pm Saturday; 1 pm and 6:30 pm Sunday. View ticket pricing and purchase at saengernola.com. 1

OCT 16th - OCT 19th

ART FESTIVAL

PRIZE FEST

Shreveport, Louisiana

One of Shreveport's biggest festivals has everything, from film and food to music and comedy, with the chance to win cash prizes and awards. Prize Fest, a four-day extravaganza, showcases artists' work and lets you vote for your favorites. Be sure

Events

Beginning October 16th - October 18th

to drop in on industry panel discussions, after parties, live music, and a red carpet event. Full schedule and ticketing information at prizefest.com. 1

OCT 16th - OCT 27th

RED CARPETS

NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

The New Orleans Film Festival returns to venues across the Crescent City with over 130 films, ready to celebrate the work of emerging and established filmmakers from as near as down the street and as far as across the ocean. 26% of the films presented are by Louisiana filmmakers, including the opening night film A King Like Me directed by Matthew O. Henderson, which follows members of the Zulu Club as they try to bring the parade back to the streets for Mardi Gras 2022 after the struggles of the pandemic, Hurricane Ida, and losses of members as a result of COVID-19 and gun violence. In addition to screenings, this Oscarqualifying event will feature panels, filmmaker pitches programs, parties, and

more. With a commitment to ensuring that at least 50% of films are created by by female and gender non-comforming directors and 45% by directors of color, the New Orleans Film Festival positions itself as a platform for perspectives that are underrepresented in film. In-person screenings will take place from October 16–22, and a majority of the lineup will also be available via the NOFF Virtual Cinema through October 27. $85 for a six film pass (in-person or virtual); $80 for an entirely virtual pass; $60 for students and teachers; $350 for all access pass with entry into all in-person screenings, festival parties, the VIP lounge, and access to all virtual screenings. Schedule at neworleansfilmsociety.org. 1

OCT 17th

FREAKY FILMS

HÄXAN: WITCHCRAFT THROUGH THE AGES WITH LIVE SCORE

New Orleans, Louisiana

The first time New Orleans composer Tristan Gianola watched Benjamin Christensen's infamous 1922 Swedish-

Danish silent horror film Häxan: Witchcraft Through the Ages, he was mesmerized. In 2019, he got the opportunity to rescore a film of his choice, and knew that the undulating tones, narratives, and visual effects of Häxan would make for remarkable opportunities in music. With an eight-piece chamber ensemble, he composed seven movements of classicalinspired scoring, with moments of jazz improvisation and soundscapes built from acoustic and electronic phrases. The film is set to be screened, with a live performance of Gianola's score, at the New Marigny Theatre. 7 pm–10 pm. $30. newmarignytheatre.com. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 20th

FOOD FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL RICE FESTIVAL

Crowley, Louisiana

Where would jambalaya, etouffée, and gumbo be without this all-powerful ingredient? Rice is essential to dishes the world over, so head to Crowley to pay homage to the tiny grain that gets around. Festival-goers are treated to rice cooking and eating contests, the Grand Parade, arts & crafts, fiddling competitions, a frog derby, a rice poker run, a classic car show,

and more over the course of this huge happening. The live music lineup includes local and national favorites like Rusty Metoyer, Dustin Sonnier, Wayne Toups, Frank Foster, and Spank the Monkey. Music, parking, and entry to the festival are free; but the carnival will cost you. All details can be found at ricefestival.com. 1

OCT 18th

EERIE EXPERIENCES

ROUGAROU FEST

Houma, Louisiana

Who are we to say that the fabled rougarou (known in other parts of Louisiana as the loup-garou) is imaginary? Thousands of wide-eyed Cajun youngsters would tell us otherwise, convinced of its existence by parents who commanded obedience by threatening a visit from this shape-shifting creature. There is no better way to defeat your demons than to confront them, or so might seem the logic of Rougarou Festival organizers. This festival in downtown Houma revels in the thrill of terror, while remaining family-friendly. The festival itself is a creepier take on the traditional Louisiana festival, which, of course, must involve the crucial components of food and music; but organizers have upped the ante with a costume contest (voted one of the ten best in the country by

USA Today), a spirited parade, a scary scavenger hunt, and carnival rides. Take part in a howling contest, a pumpkin lighting, a nutria pardoning, a Day of the Dead celebration, and more. And there's no skimping on the food: jambalaya, blackberry dumplings, and beignets are among the menu selections, so come hungry. Main Street and Church Street. Free. rougaroufest.org. 1

OCT 18th

MUSIC FESTIVAL

NOLA FUNK FEST

New Orleans, Louisiana

NOLA Funk Fest is the designated "coming-out party" for the The Louisiana Music & Heritage Experience, a museum in the works that intends to showcase Louisiana's extensive music history on a grand scale. To celebrate the occasion, there will be two stages bumping sets by dozens of New Orleans's funkiest artists, plus delicious food and available beverages. Two symposia will explore oral histories, accompanied by musical performances, of how R&B, Rock and Roll, and Funk evolved as genres. Saturday's topic of conversation will be Louisiana Blues Harmonica Masters, featuring Grammy-winning bluesman Bobby Rush, New Orleans musicians Johnny Sansone and Bruce "Sunpie" Barnes, Nick Spitzer of American Routes, and music historian and writer Bob Santelli. Sunday will bring together a panel of contemporary women musicians who have helped shape the blues, including Grammy-winning Irma Thomas and the legendary Marcia Ball. Also in conversation will be record executive Scott Billington, journalist Gwen Thompkins, and musicologist Ben Sandmel. Both symposia will be held at the New Orleans Jazz Museum's third floor performance hall from 2 pm–3:30 pm. Headlining musical acts this year include George Porter Jr. and Runnin' Pardners, Big Freedia, The Soul Rebels, Geo Leo (George Porter Jr. & Leo Nocentelli playing the music of The Meters with Stanton Moore and Ivan Neville), Jon Cleary, and Tank and the Bangas. 2 pm–9 pm each day. $100 for a three-day pass in advance. VIP options at nolafunkfest.com. 1

OCT 18th

FALL FAVORITES

A MERRY NOT SCARY

HALLOWEEN

Port Allen, Louisiana

This Halloween-inspired evening at the West Baton Rouge Museum is quite merry, and not so scary, so the whole family can enjoy. Expect seasonal activities, a costume contest, crafts and treats, a Halloween dance, and

two professional storyteller shows at 6:45 pm and 7:15 pm. Bring blankets and lawn chairs. 6 pm–8 pm. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.org. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 19th

GREEN THUMBS

2024 SOUTHERN GARDEN

SYMPOSIUM

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Gardeners, come one, come all for a delightful romp through some of the most exquisite gardens in the Deep South, with experts there to guide you on your fragrant journey with educational lectures, tours, and workshops. Returning for its thirty-fifth year, the Southern Garden Symposium guides gardeners through beautiful settings in the town of St. Francisville, including the elegant gardens of Rosedown State Historic Site, Oakley at Audubon State Historic Site, Afton Villa Gardens, and The Gardens at The Corbel. Attendees will also enjoy an elegant evening at Harlow Farms for a traditional cocktail party honoring the event's speakers. Registration at 8:30 am Friday, closing with a 6:30 pm cocktail reception at Harlow Farms; 8:30 am arrival at Rosedown on Saturday, closing with a luncheon at noon. $150–$400. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 19th

TRAINING DAY

ANNUAL FALL FESTIVAL AND SMALL SCALE STEAM-UP

Longleaf, Louisiana

Head to the Southern Forest Heritage Museum in Long Leaf for the Annual Fall Festival and Small Scale SteamUp. This festival has it all, from train rides, pony rides, food trucks, live music, woodcarving, face painting, and inflatables, to the less traditional activities involving a historic sawmill village, live blacksmithing, and a vintage machine shop. Train enthusiasts should make sure to check out the several “Gauge 1” live steam-powered locomotive models from the International Small Scale Steam-Up Company. 4 pm–7 pm Friday; 10 am–7 pm Saturday. $5 Friday; $10 Saturday; Free for children under five. forestheritagemuseum.org. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 19th

UP IN THE AIR

NATCHEZ BALLOON FESTIVAL

Natchez, Mississippi

The city of Natchez makes a picturesque historic backdrop for balloonatics from all around the country during the annual hot-air balloon festival, when balloonists will fly above the high bluffs and Mississippi River. The Balloon Glow

Events

Beginning October 18th - October 19th

and fireworks show are always wellreceived, as is a lineup of bands that this year includes the Chee Weez, the Lincoln Outfit, Taj Farrant, The Heartshakers, Eric Gales, and Chapel Hart. The image of hot air balloons suspended above the Mississippi River, when viewed from the two-hundred-foot river bluffs, is one not soon forgotten. The festival also includes a Sports Tent showing all the weekend's big games on big-screen TVs. Children's activities, carnival rides, and a variety of regional foods are always around, so it's up, up, and away you go to Natchez this weekend. $40 weekend pass for adults ($50 at the gate), or $20 on Friday, $35 Saturday if purchased in advance, $40 day-of. Children ages ten and younger are free. After morning balloon flights lifting off throughout the area at 7:30 am each day, the Festival kicks off at 4 pm Friday, with an 11 am start on Saturday all on the grounds of Rosalie Mansion. natchezballoonfestival.com. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 20th

ANIMAL AFFAIRS

NEW ORLEANS BOO AT THE ZOO

New Orleans, Louisiana

Bring your tiny ghosts and goblins to the land of beasts for the Audubon Nature Institute's annual Boo at the Zoo event. Plenty of thrills and treats to be had for the fright-finders and weenies—cough, I mean the more sensitive attendees— alike. Trick-or-treating, pumpkin enrichment, scary and non-scary walks through a haunted house, and—of course, zoo animals. 10 am–5 pm. $38. events.audubonnatureinstitute.org. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 20th

SPOOKY SHINDIGS

HALLOWEEN NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans, Louisiana

Originally founded as a fundraising initiative to support Project Lazarus, a home in New Orleans for men and women living with AIDS, Halloween New Orleans has grown to a full-fledged queer Halloween Festival. The events kick off Friday at the Lazarus Ball—a formal celebration featuring a silent auction and performances by The New Orleans Players. 7 pm–10 pm. $110. Gallier Hall. Saturday's event is the Camp HNO dance party event at The Fillmore, featuring performances by Ty Sunderland and Paul Lakeway, a live DJ, a costume contest, and more. 10 pm–3 am. $135. Finally, on Sunday, recoup

at the Riverboat Tea Dance, held at the Natchez Riverboat. Music provided by DJ Joey with the Mustache, ushering in a Tea Dance and a classic New Orleans Second Line. 1 pm–5 pm. $105. Details at halloweenneworleans.com. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 20th

UP IN THE AIR

BOUCHERIE & BALLOON FESTIVAL

Sorrento, Louisiana

It's a whole-hog, hot air kinda weekend when the Sorrento Lions Club brings the Boucherie Festival to the Ascension Hot Air Balloon Festival. If pigs were ever going to fly, it'll happen here. You'll wanna do a little advance fasting, as the menu includes jambalaya, hogshead cheese, cracklins, boudin and boudin balls, roast pork, and chicken and andouille gumbo—and those balloons can only carry so much weight. The combined event will be held at 9690 Airline Highway in Sorrento, featuring all the traditional trappings of the Boucherie Fest: Cracklin' and Jambalaya Cook-offs, pig roasting, and all things pork—only now is the added magic of hot air balloon glows, live entertainment, fireworks, carnival rides, and more. Fun to be had all weekend. Admission by donation. boucheriefestival.com. 1

OCT 19th

LIVE MUSIC

ACADIA MUSIC FEST

Thibodaux, Louisiana

National musicians join more familiar names on the same stage for Thibodaux's Acadia Music Fest. An Arts Market and Southern Food Court round out this music festival in the heart of bayou country, with a lineup that includes: Nelly, Little John & The Dirty Clarks, Icarus Jones, DJ Spin, and many more. All profits will benefit the Ben Meyer Foundation to help charities in the community. At Acadia Plantation Town Center in Thibodaux. Noon–11:30 pm. $50. acadiamusicfest.net. 1

OCT 19th

SINISTER STROLLS

NEW ORLEANS ZOMBIE RUN

New Orleans, Louisiana

There are two ways to approach the zombie apocalypse. Beating them isn't much of an option, you've seen The Walking Dead. No, your choices are:

Events

Beginning October 19th

stave them off, or join them. So don your bio-hazard suit and gas mask, or succumb to zombification at the New Orleans Zombie Run. Starting at 9 am, two miles along the Warehouse District will be infested with rotting corpses, the deadliest of which are the Big Easy Rollergirl Zombie Killers. Stick around for the Krewe of Boo Parade afterwards. Pre-registration is $25; $90 for VIP (race shirt guaranteed and open bar); Day of (starting at 7:30 am) is $35; $100 VIP. neworleanszombierun.com. 1

OCT 19th

CREATORS

BATON ROUGE MAKER FAIRE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The EBRP Library is inviting high and low-tech “makers” to its eleventh annual Maker Faire, where the "how to" of everything is explored by crafters, quilters, engineers, and more. The year's theme is "Let's MAKE some noise!"—a celebration of music through making. Expect demos of unconventional musical instruments, an instrument "petting zoo," a drum circle, a "Build Your

Own Instrument" contest, a ukulele orchestra, and more. Enjoy special events, including "headliner" Bryan Day, a San Fransisco instrument inventor, who will guide visitors through a demonstration of building sound sculptures. 10 am–4 pm at the Main Library. batonrouge.makerfaire.com. 1

OCT 19th

FALL FAVORITES

MONSTER MASH FUN

FALL FAMILY FESTIVAL

Covington, Louisiana

The Monster Mash Fun Fall Family Festival—can you say that three times fast?—sends a seasonal gust of ghoulishness and good times through Bogue Falaya Park. An annual fundraiser for the St. Tammany Hospital Parenting Center, touted as a safer option to the usual end-of-month capers, features a Trick-or-Treat Village, arts & crafts, carnival rides, and food and beverages for purchase. Enhance your trick-or-treating experience as a VIP at the Pumpkins and Potions Pavilion, featuring a photo booth, full-face painting, and a special

gift. Costumes highly recommended.10 am–2 pm. $40 for a Child's VIP ticket; $20 at the gate for children; $5 for adults; Free for children under age two. sthfoundation.org. 1

OCT 19th

SPOOKY SHINDIGS

KREWE OF BOO PARADE

New Orleans, Louisiana

The official Halloween parade of New Orleans is back to creep the night away this year. Krewe of Boo rolls at 6:30 pm, creaking its way through the Boo Carré along North Peters, Canal, and Tchoupitoulas, before ending at Mardi Gras World. kreweofboo.com. 1

OCT 19th

FOOD FESTIVAL

HOT & SPICY CHILI COOK-OFF

Denham Springs, Louisiana

Spice up your Saturday at the Denham Springs Main Street Chili Cook-Off. Taste delicious chili, enjoy live music by American Idol ‘s Jovin Webb, shop local vendors, and support the preservation of the city's historic Antique Village. With a $10 tasting ticket, you can sample the best chili in town and vote for the People’s Choice Award. Proceeds from the event

support preserving historic landmarks like the old city hall. Don’t miss this family-friendly day of fun, flavor, and community spirit. 11 am–2:30 pm. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 19th

TASTY TREATS

OLD ARABI SUGAR FESTIVAL Arabi, Louisiana

Sweet-tooths from miles around converge on the grounds of the historic neighborhood of Old Arabi in the land of sugar giant Domino for the annual Old Arabi Sugar Fest. Competition will focus on the sugary delights of cakes, cookies, and pies. Crafts, activities for the kiddos, a donut eating contest, and more confections than you can shake a cotton candy stick at make this a pretty sweet event. All against a backdrop of live music performed by local favorites Christian Serpas & Ghost Town, Adam Pearce, Sam Price, and Irene Sage. 11 am–9 pm at Aycock Barn. oldarabi.org/sugarfest. 1

OCT 19th

FLOATS SHAKE YOUR TRAIL FEATHER PADDLE PARADE

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

The TECHE Project returns with the

thirteenth annual Shake Your Trail Feather Festival, celebrating the Bayou Teche National Paddle Trail. The day will include a Paddle Parade down Bayou Teche, featuring live music by local Cajun musicians playing on decorated barges. Participants can either take part in the 4.5 mile (2 hour) paddle to Parc des Ponts or the longer 6.5 mile (2:45 hour) paddle to Lil's on the Teche. There will be a pre-paddle shuttle ($5 cash at the bus) from each location (leaving from Lil's at 9 am and Parc des Ponts at 9:15 am). Land at the Party in the Parc, with live musical entertainment by Balfa Toujours, food, and libations at Parc des Pont. Parade starts at 10 am behind Poche's Meat Market; party from noon–2 pm. Non-motorized boat rentals are available at Bayou Teche Experience, Pack and Paddle, or The Backpacker (with a two week advance notice). Registration for the event is $15; $10 for children. techeproject.org. 1

OCT 19th

EN POINTE

THE HOUSTON BALLET IN NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans, Louisiana

The Houston Ballet returns to New Orleans for one night only at the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Witness performances of George Balanchine’s Tchaikovsky Pas de Deux, Stanton Welch’s Velocity, Aszure Barton's Come In, and Disha Zhang’s Elapse The program promises to enthrall, ranging from a dance defined by speed to one capturing the passage of time, among others. 7:30 pm. $25–$189. nobadance.com. 1

OCT 19th

BEER BASH

GULF BREW

Lafayette, Louisiana

Gulf Brew is back with over two hundred Louisiana breweries and brewpubs to showcase their newest craft beers, along with live music stages, craft booths, and more coming together for the outdoor festival along Jefferson Street in downtown Lafayette. Organized by the Acadiana Center for the Arts, Gulf Brew is a fundraiser for the exhibitions, performances, and art education initiatives in public schools that the ACA holds year-round, making it not only a time to explore the different beers Louisiana has to offer, but also a way to give back to a good cause. 1 pm–5 pm. General admission $40; VIP $100; Designated Driver $10. acadianacenterforthearts.org. 1

OCT 19th - OCT 20th

FLOATS

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL

Madisonville, Louisiana

From pirogues to classic Chris-Crafts, there's just something so appealing about wooden boats. And in Louisiana, there's no place they look better en masse than abroad on the placid waters of the Tchefuncte River. As the major fundraiser for the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum, the Wooden Boat Festival in Madisonville attracts gorgeous examples; just ask one of the thousands of attendees who've been flocking to this celebration for a quarter century. In addition to upwards of one hundred boats—from pirogues to seventy-five-foot cruisers and trawlers— the fest features a main stage with live bands throughout Saturday and Sunday. Don't miss the return of the Quick 'n Dirty Boat Building Contest and Parade. Gates open at 10 am on Saturday and Sunday, with entertainment till dusk, all along the banks of the Tchefuncte River in Madisonville. $10. maritimemuseumlouisiana.org/wbf. 1

OCT 19th - OCT 20th

MUSIC FESTIVAL

A TASTE OF THE DEEP SOUTH

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Pull out your lawn chairs and head to North Boulevard Town Square: One of Baton Rouge's biggest music festivals is here with the 8th Annual Taste of the Deep South, emphasizing world music among other numerous genres. The lineup includes Henry Turner Jr. & Flavor, along with the Listening Room AllStars, including Kelton ‘Npsire Harper, comedian Eddie “Cool” Deemer, the Listening Room House Band featuring Ervin “Maestro” Foster, Jim Masters and King Solomon. Check out a vendor's village and a food court to complete the experience. Noon–8 pm. Free; $25 for VIP. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 19th - OCT 27th

ANIMAL AFFAIRS

BOO AT THE ZOO

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Don't be scary ... be merry! The Baton Rouge Zoo's annual fall event is a cherished family-friendly tradition, this year presented by Hancock Whitney Bank. Your little beast can costume up and take photos in the Pumpkin Patch and other fall tableaux, meet animals, and enjoy other entertainment. 9:30 am–4 pm. Regular zoo admissions apply. brzoo.org. 1

FAIRS AND FESTIVALS

50 ans et Demain

FIFTY YEARS AGO, CAJUN MUSIC DREW ITS BIGGEST LOCAL CROWD

Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot • Photo by David Simpson

March 25, 1974 was a Tuesday, and in Lafayette, Louisiana, it was thunder storming—lightning flashing in the sky, rain pounding on the roof of the Blackham Coliseum. There was a foot of water on Johnston Street.

And yet, the parking lot was full. Cars were actively being turned away. Inside, the floor was covered in mud, and everyone sweated in their raincoats, squeezed in until the space could hold not one more person. Organizers of the event, dubbed the “Tribute to Cajun Music,” estimate the crowd numbered 12,000 people. Local newspapers would report the bold claim that “there had never been so many Cajuns together at any time in history.”

Now considered the first rendition of the globally-acclaimed Lafayette fall tradition Festivals Acadiens et Créoles, that first event fifty years ago was originally conceived as an academic affair—a folk concert for an audience of 150, programmed by CODOFIL for the annual International Association of FrenchSpeaking Journalists and Broadcasters.

Barry Ancelet, a twenty-one-year-old student in the French studies program at ULL, was working for CODOFIL at the time and had gotten Cajun musician and cultural activist Dewey Balfa involved. Before anyone knew it, the excitement around the slate of Louisiana French musicians required a change of venue from a university performance hall to the 8,000-seater coliseum.

The headliners helped draw in much of the crowd. Jimmy C. Newman was an Evangeline Parish boy-turned-Grand Ole Opry star who had just relaunched his career as a Cajun musician with the hit, “Lache Pas La Patate.” And Clifton Chenier, the “King of Zydeco,” was steadily building a passionate regional audience as he neared the peak of his national stardom. Both major artists, with the rest of the musicians on the lineup, had agreed to participate in the event free of charge.

“We weren’t even certain the musicians would show up,” said Ancelet. “None of them were being paid. We weren’t sure that anyone would come.”

But they did come, in droves. Patrick Mould, now a Lafayette area chef and educator, was one of the college students in attendance that evening. “I was one of those hippies that was there,” he remembered. “And it ran the gamut, you know, there were people of color, white people, old people, and a lot of young people— college-age and high school people.”

The Louisiana French cultural renaissance of the previous decade—which had resulted in the establishment of CODOFIL and the launch of Cajun and Creole music onto the national and international folk festival circuits—was finally reaching the new generation. Mould was evidence of it, as was Ancelet.

During the previous year spent studying abroad in France, Ancelet had found himself longing for home in a way he couldn’t articulate. Then he came upon a concert in downtown Nice by musician Roger Mason, who was playing “The Crowley Two Step”. “Hearing that, it hit me like a ton of bricks,” he said. “My God, that’s it. That’s what I have been longing for.”

Growing up, Cajun and Creole music was something Ancelet had taken for granted, the background noise of his hometown culture, the music of the old people. Expressing to Mason what the performance had meant to him, the musician recommended he visit Dewey Balfa. “Go to his house and introduce yourself,” he told Ancelet. “He’ll orient you.”

Balfa’s role in the Cajun Renaissance had been sparked a decade before, when folklorist Ralph Rinzler recruited a group of Cajun musicians from Mamou to perform at the 1964 Newport Folk Festival. On stage in Rhode Island, Balfa joined Eunice Playboys Gladius Thibodeaux and Louis “Vinesse” Lejeune in introducing the audience of 20,000 festival-goers to Cajun music for the first time.

While playing the “Grand Mamou” waltz, the trio found themselves unsettled by the crowd’s stillness, the way they simply sat and listened. “Why aren’t they dancing?” Balfa had wondered, assuming the experiment

Home

a failure. Perhaps Cajun music only belonged in the dark, beer-stained world of Louisiana dancehalls, after all.

But then, at the end of the song, that massive audience roared in applause. The musicians looked at each other in wonder. No one had ever clapped for them like that before. The experience struck something deep within Balfa, a realization that his culture’s music held something beyond courting tunes or drinking songs. It was also worthy of being recognized as art.

When Ancelet got back to Louisiana, he did just as Mason had advised him: drove out to Basile and knocked on Dewey Balfa’s door unannounced. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Balfa was, as Ancelet put it, his first true professor of folklore. The two would go on to collaborate in various cultural preservation efforts for decades to come—the 1974 Tribute to Cajun Music being one of the first and most significant.

Since Newport, Balfa had attended dozens of other folk festivals around the globe and dreamed of bringing something similar back home. He wanted to teach Louisianans to listen to their own music, to hear it anew. While planning the Tribute in collaboration with CODOFIL, Balfa insisted, “We’ve got to make it so people can’t dance.”

As part of a committee that included Mamou cultural activists Paul Tate and Revon Reed, musician Marc Savoy, and

Bringing Cajun Music Back

other members of the community— Balfa helped put together a lineup that, in addition to the heavy hitters of Newman and Chenier, included musicians representing a range of musical expressions sung in Louisiana French.

There were the old fiddle masters: Dennis McGee and Sady Courville, who had created some of the very first Cajun music records in the 1920s and had been performing together in dance halls for fifty years; as well as “the greatest unrecorded Cajun Musician” Varise Conner with his famous Lake Arthur Two-Step, performing with Lionel Leleux.

Then there were the accordion sensations: Nathan Abshire, best known for his “porch music” and his “Pine Grove Blues”; dance hall king Blackie Forestier and his Cajun Aces; and a thirty-three year-old Marc Savoy, who demonstrated how the tradition was being carried forward in the next generation.

Balfa brought his brothers, who’d cut their teeth in the dancehalls and were now making a name for themselves on the national festival circuit. “Bois Sec”

Ardoin and his family band represented the old sound of “La Musique Creole”— reminding all where Cajun and the emerging Zydeco traditions came from. And to open the night was Inez Catalon, who had never before performed on a stage but captivated the crowd from the start with her ancient French lullabies and ballads.

Balfa needn’t have worried about the people dancing; there was simply no room. Everyone had no choice but to sit still together inside Blackham, and listen. “It was beyond my wildest dreams,” said Ancelet.

In this crowd, he saw himself in France—longing for that indescribable sense of home, and finally, finally hearing it. “The young people especially, they showed up because they understood this as a counterculture statement, something that wouldn’t get washed away in this sort of plastic Americana that was taking over. And people who were interested in rock and pop and blues and other contemporary music forms realized this was a living form just like that, but it was ours. For us, the counterculture statement turns inward. We look to ourselves.”

Festivals Acadiens et Créoles Today

The Tribute and the festivals that followed were a show of relevance, a collective demonstration that this music still matters, today. “That’s one of the biggest impacts of the event,” said Ancelet. “It has given a stage and a place for the tradition to produce new, youthful approaches.”

As a sort of “home base” event for professional musicians performing within the tradition of Louisiana French music, Mould described the festival today as a “barometer for where we are culturally, from a music standpoint, as well as an artistic and culinary standpoint”—highlighting the other two contemporary pillars of Festivals Acadiens et Créoles.

After fifty years of evolution and growth, the event is celebrating its anniversary this year with the theme “50 Ans et Demain” (“50 Years and Tomorrow”)—emphasizing the passing of tradition, with all its evolutions, from one generation to the next, the very stuff that fueled the success of that first concert.

“It’s always been about celebrating our past, it’s always been about honoring our past,” said Ancelet. “But it’s also always been about passing it forward, making it move into the future.”

In this spirit, this year’s festival, taking place October 11–13 at Girard Park in Lafayette, will launch with a re-creation of that first Tribute concert held in March 1974—the exact lineup performed by each late artist’s “musical heirs” (with the exception of Marc Savoy, the last living performer from that seminal night, who will perform with his family band). Fiddle virtuoso David Greely will perform Inez Catalan’s home songs, and will be joined by Cameron Fontenot. Joel Savoy and Linzay Young will take on the legacies of Dennis McGee and Sady Courville, and Robert Jardell will demonstrate the distinguished accordion style of Nathan Abshire. Donny Broussard and Sheryl Cormier, legends in their own rights, will play the repertoire of the accordionist Blackie Forestier.

Then there are the legacies, honoring their ancestors through the shared language of traditional Cajun and Creole music. Playing with Cedric Watson, the Zydeco/Creole accordionist Dexter Ardoin will stand in place of his grandfather Bois Sec and his father Morris. CJ Chenier, the Grammy-nominated “Crown Prince of Zydeco,” will take the stage in memory of his famous father. Gary Newman, who grew up at the Grand Ole Opry, will no doubt perform a rousing rendition of “Lache Pas La Patate.” And the legacy of Dewey Balfa and his brothers carries forth “toujours” through his daughter Christine Balfa, who will perform with Peter Schwarz, who studied the Cajun fiddle under Dewey in 1983.

“The main difference will be that this time we have a house band,” laughed Ancelet, recalling the chaos of moving entire bands off and onto the stage during that first concert. “Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys”—a band full of Balfa’s mentees and, now, their own heirs, too.

“Beyond that, the festival is going to keep doing what it always did,” said Ancelet. “We’re going to have new performers and more established performers, all in a blend.” • festivalsacadiens.com.

Top: Barry Ancelet, who played an important part in organizing the first 1974 Tribute to

Music, and has been integral to the event in the fifty years since.

Bottom: Christine Balfa, the

of Cajun music icon Dewey Balfa, one of the many legacies representing the ways the Cajun and Créole music traditions are carrying forth generation to generation.

Cajun

daughter

Events

Beginning October 24th - October 25th

OCT 24th

POINTY HATS

THE WITCHES RIDE OF ST. FRANCISVILLE 2024

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Witches will race through the streets of historic downtown St. Francisville on this evening, but fear not: it's just friends and neighbors wearing their witchiest costumes, participating in this fun, seasonal, charity bike ride event. Proceeds will benefit The Purple House Foundation, which seeks to establish and maintain a safe house for women and children escaping domestic violence. Put on your pointiest hat and check in at Parker Park from 3:30 pm–5 pm. The ride begins at 5:15 pm. Stop at The Mallory, 5747 Commerce Street, at 8 pm–10 pm for the after party. $60. witchesridesf.com. 1

OCT 24th - OCT 26th

[FUN]DRAISERS

Y'ALL MEANS ALL'S "THE WEEKEND" Natchez, Mississippi

In Natchez, Mississippi, Y'all Means All—meaning that the community itself,

and all of its enterprises, thrive the most when they are inclusive. They're also a lot more fun. The organization Y'all Means All Natchez is a nonprofit benefiting local mental health organizations like Southwest Mississippi Mental Health Complex, National Alliance of Mental Health, Shareevolution, and others; and has a mission to provide safe spaces and community support for rainbow youth in the Natchez community. "The Weekend" coordinates a weekend of sparkly fun events, starting with Drag Bingo at Smoot's on Thursday ($45), carrying forth Friday with a Black & White party at The Cedars—featuring cocktails, a raffle, and a local celebrity lunch date auction ($100), and culminates with the Quick Drag Showdown on Saturday, featuring Carson Kressley and Josalyn Royale ($45). Events begin at 6 pm. $170 for the weekend. yallmeansallnatchez.org. 1

OCT 24th - NOV 3rd

FALL FAVORITES

THE GREATER BATON ROUGE STATE FAIR

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Baton Rouge State Fair pulls out all

the stops each year with rides galore in the carnival midway and live music almost every night. Clowns and magicians amble about the grounds while fairgoers feed on delicious (and seemingly endless) fair food. Plus there's mutton bustin', lawn-tractor pulls, pig races, and an exotic animal petting zoo. Junior beef, dairy, and goat shows also add to the agricultural theme. This year, don't miss the Dinosaur Xperience, featuring a strolling animatronic T-Rex making his way through the fair. Lego-lovers of all ages be on the look out to catch the

annual Lego Extravaganza at 2 pm on October 26. 5 pm–10 pm Mondays–Fridays; noon–10 pm Saturdays & Sundays. $5 and up. gbrsf.com. 1

OCT 25th

SPOOKY SPECTACULARS

MOONLIGHT OVER MELROSE

Melrose, Louisiana

Lean into the spookiest season at Melrose on the Cane's extravagant Halloween festival, which begs attendees to don their costumes for carnival games, a "Witches Dance," a trunk-or-treat lane,

The New Marigny Theatre, located in New Orleans, recently launched the grand opening of its performing arts and education centers. Photo provided by the New Marigny Theatre. See pgs. 18 and 26 for upcoming events at the theatre.

home tours, tasty sweet and savory treats from the Association for the Preservation of Historic Natchitoches, and more. 5 pm–8 pm. $10 for ages three and older. melroseonthecane.com. 1

OCT 25th

PARTIES

COLUMBIA STREET

BLOCK PARTY

Covington, Louisiana

This long-running last-Friday-of-themonth event closes the 200 to 500 blocks of Columbia Street in Covington to anything with an engine, providing lots of opportunities for fun on foot instead. The classic car people and the shop owners will be handing out goodies accordingly, plus live music at local venues. Shops and restaurants open late, too. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. covla.com. 1

OCT 25th

SINISTER STROLLS

OLDE TOWNE SLIDELL

ZOMBIE CRAWL

Slidell, Louisiana

Olde Towne goes Halloweentown for this festive fall fete—featuring trick-ortreating, a costume contest, and over seventy five local artists and crafters all along four blocks of downtown Slidell. Don't miss the local music acts, as well as games and crafts for children. 5 pm–10 pm. Free. Olde Towne Slidell Facebook page for details. 1

OCT 25th - OCT 26th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

BLACKPOT

FESTIVAL AND COOK-OFF

Lafayette, Louisiana

This unique festival celebrates its eighteenth year with a weekend full of music, dancing, and food at Vermilionville. It's a cooperative of South Louisiana musicians, artists, and roots enthusiasts who'll be joined by groups from other parts of the country, too. On Friday night and Saturday, live performances range from Cajun and zydeco to blues, bluegrass, Americana, swing, and Irish and this year's lineup includes stellar shows like: The Pine Leaf Boys, Sheryl Cormier, Ann Savoy, and many more. An accordion contest and square dancing add to the music fever, and, then of course there's the cook off. All weekend long, competitors will get down and dirty for the title of champion in categories: gumbo, gravy, cracklin', jambalaya, and dessert. Guests can sample the goods on Saturday afternoon, and winners will be announced at 6 pm. $80 pre-registration for individual and

team entries (includes one dish and two wristbands for Saturday; two additional team members can be added for $30 each); $100 after October 23. Additional dishes will have an entry fee of $50. 6 pm–midnight Friday ($35); noon–midnight Saturday ($45). Overnight camping is encouraged, so dust off that tent and get back to your roots (or if you prefer to sleep above the roots, bring your RV). Weekend rate, which includes camping, is $70. blackpotfestival.com for full details. 1

OCT 25th - OCT 27th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

INTERNATIONAL ACADIAN FESTIVAL

Plaquemine, Louisiana

To honor the Acadian roots shared by so many area residents, Iberville Parish holds a Water Ceremony every year, a re-enactment of Longfellow’s poem in which Acadian exile Emmeline LaBiche (Evangeline) travels down Bayou Plaquemine on her journey to the Teche Country in search of her lover, Louis Arceneaux (Gabriel). As the story goes, she and her Native American guide spent the night on the banks of the bayou in what is now the City of Plaquemine. In the present-day ceremony, the Indian princesses and Evangeline (queen of the festival) arrive to greet the crowd at the Waterfront Park by fire-lit pirogues. All this, plus the typical festival trimmings: rides, games, music, Cajun food, 4-H booths, arts & crafts, a cooking contest, fireworks, a Texas Hold 'Em Tournament, and the International Acadian Festival Parade at 10:30 am on Sunday. Kicks off Friday at 5 pm with a Blessing of the Grounds, with music into the night. acadianfestival.org. 1

OCT 25th - OCT 27th

TASTY TREATS

FRENCH FOOD FESTIVAL

Larose, Louisiana

The Lafourcheais, or people of Lafourche, have been doing this tasty thing each October for forty-something years now, which is to stuff the Larose Civic Center with dozens of food booths then tempt thousands of festival-goers with local specialties such as white oyster soup and shrimp boulettes. Live music by local artists like Benjamin Bruce & the Acadians, Shorts in December, Waylon Thibodeaux, and the JP Bourgeois Band. Plus, exhibits, an art show, a petting zoo, and carnival rides. 5 pm–midnight Friday; noon–midnight Saturday; 11 am–4 pm Sunday. Free. bayoucivicclub.org. 1

Events

Beginning October 25th - October 26th

OCT 25th - OCT 27th

BOOKWORMS FRIENDS OF THE JEFFERSON PUBLIC LIBRARY BIG BOOK SALE

Kenner, Louisiana

The Friends of the Jefferson Public Library's semi-annual book sale returns to fill the Pontchartrain Center this month. Over sixty-five thousand used books will be up for grabs, including cookbooks, travel books, art books, history books, and local and regional titles. DVDs, CDs, puzzles, sheet music, audio books, and more on sale, too. Most items priced between fifty cents and three dollars. An auction will include specialty items like a 1985 edition of John James Audubon's The Birds of America, and other rare books. 10 am–7 pm Friday–Saturday; noon–5 pm Sunday. Free admission and parking. friendsofjeffersonlibrary.org. 1

OCT 26th

FALL FAVORITES

NEW IBERIA HALLOWEEN PARADE

New Iberia, Louisiana

Watch the annual painting of the New

Iberia fountain black at City Hall, which launches the festivities before the Halloween Parade down Main Street, all to end with a trunk or treat extravaganza at Bouligny Plaza. 4 pm. Details at the New Iberia Halloween Parade Facebook Event. 1

OCT

26th

GOOD DEEDS

LOUISIANA WALKS FOR PARKINSON’S

Metairie, Louisiana

Lace up your sneakers, grab your water bottle, and join more than 500 participants and volunteers for the 11th annual Louisiana Walks for Parkinson’s at Lafreniere Park in Metairie. LA Walks supports the Davis Phinney Foundation for Parkinson’s. Explore other offerings, like a kid's corner, donated food and drinks from local companies, and live music by Flip Side Band of NOLA. Resources will also be available for folks with Parkinson's and their loved ones. $30 for adults; Free for children 12 and under; $35 for walk-up registration. parkinsonswalk.org. 1

A still from A King Like Me (directed by

OCT 26th

FREAKY FILMS

“THE FALL OF THE HOUSE OF USHER" AT BATON ROUGE GALLERY’S MOVIES & MUSIC ON THE LAWN

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Baton Rouge Gallery’s Movies & Music on the Lawn returns this fall, so be sure not to miss its Halloween celebration with a screening of Edgar Allen Poe's The Fall of the House of Usher at BREC’s CityBrooks Community Park. An original score performed by local band, Woorms, will accompany the film. Woorms

calls themselves “extra crispy sludge/ noise rock.” 8 pm. Free. Learn more at batonrougegallery.org. 1

OCT 26th

FALL FAVORITES

BREC'S FULL MOON FÊTE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Pack up the kids in their costumes for yet another infusion of candy at Independence Community Park, where a trunk & treat trail awaits— not to mention live music, character appearances, a special slate of seasonal

Matthew O. Henderson), which follows members of New Orleans’s first Black Mardi Gras krewe, the Zulu Club, and their efforts to bring their parade back to the streets in 2022 amid the COVID pandemic, the aftermath of Hurricane Ida, and the loss of members due to gun violence and illness. A King Like Me will have its Louisiana premiere on October 16 at the Orpheum Theater, kicking off the 35th Annual New Orleans Film Festival. Photo provided by The New Orleans Film Society. See pg. 26.

Events

Beginning October 26th - October 31st

activities, face painting, and more Halloween fun for this year's BREC Full Moon Fête. Free. 4 pm–8 pm. brec.org. 1

OCT 26th

TASTY TREATS

GRAND COTEAU

SWEET DOUGH PIE FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Calling all dessert-lovers for this timehonored celebration of Grand Coteau's tastiest treat: Sweet dough pie. The Grand Coteau Sweet Dough Pie Festival will be held on the grounds of the Grand Coteau Town Park and will feature sweet dough pie vendors, a sweet dough pie contest, food trucks, arts & crafts, and music for all to enjoy. Sweet dough pies available to purchase include sweet potato, fig, custard, lemon, and blackberry. 9 am–5 pm. sweetdoughinfo@gmail.com. 1

OCT 26th

SPOOKY STOPS

"VISITING THE PAST" AT CEDAR HILL CEMETERY

Washington, Louisiana

In one of Louisiana's oldest towns, a

historic cemetery holds some of our region's most intriguing and long-held stories. Cedar Hill Cemetery's origins go back to the 1850s, when additional burial space was needed in Washington to bury the victims of the Yellow Fever epidemic. At the time, everyone in Washington was either buried here or in the town's one other cemetery, regardless of creed or status or race. At this unique event, these histories will be explored on the beautiful grounds where these individuals rest. 5:30 pm–6:30 pm. cajuntravel.com. 1

OCT

26th

[FUN]DRAISERS

BOO! BASH AT NUNU

Arnaudville, Louisiana

Help cool down the NUNU Arts and Culture Collective at the Boo! Bash Fundraiser this October, aiming to raise $50,000 to install air-conditioning and insulation to protect the collective's art— and its patrons. Enjoy music from Bonsoir Catin with Christine Balfa & Friends (followed by DJ Shane Guidry), along with dancing, food, drinks, a costume

contest, and auctions. 7 pm–11 pm. $50. Find more information at NUNU's Facebook page. 1

OCT 26th

SPOOKY STOPS

COVINGTON BOO FEST

Covington, Louisiana

ACCESS (Adapting and Changing Children’s Environments with Successful Solutions), a locally founded non-profit fund of the Northshore Community Foundation, will hold the annual Boo Fest on the grounds of Lakeview Regional Medical Center. The popular Northshore event benefits children with disabilities and their families, but is open to children of all abilities. The day is packed with lots of fall-themed activities, including pumpkin decorating at the pumpkin patch, face painting, all-abilities games, a complimentary photo booth, music and dancing, and much, much more. 10 am–3 pm. 9 am for special needs families. $2. accesslouisiana.org/boofest. 1

OCT 26th

FALL FAVORITES

HARVEST MOON FESTIVAL

Franklin, Louisiana

Franklin's annual street festival celebrates the beauty of the season and the spirit

of the sugar cane harvest. Head to Main Street in Franklin's historic district and join in the the fall-flavored fun. Highlights include the Louisiana Cane Syrup Expo, pony rides, an obstacle course, children's activities, and live music. And of course, plenty of warming food to stave off the coming winter. 10 am–4 pm. cajuncoast.com. 1

OCT 26th

[FUN]DRAISERS

VAN GOGH GALA Alexandria, Louisiana

The River Oaks Arts Center in Alexandria presents its annual artful gala, this year with the theme "The Surrealist Ball" for its 40th Anniversary. Don your best Salvador Dali-inspired costume, or embody the extravagance of any of the other surrealists who delved into the subconscious. Evoking the Rothschild soirées of the 1970s, the gala channels fashion, whimsy, and artistry. Includes appetizers and an open bar. Details to come at riveroaksartscenter.com. 1

OCT 26th

ARTS & CRAFTS

HALLOWEEN ART AND NATURE FESTIVAL Arnaudville, Louisiana

The theme at this year's Halloween Art

and Nature Festival, "Creepy Crawlers," is inspired by the 1960’s activity game that taught children to cast plastic insects and other ‘creepy’ organisms out of molds. The festival will showcase five Southern artists as they create bug and other creepy-crawler-themed sculptures from recycled metals using a portable casting furnace and blacksmithing forge installed on site at the Atelier grounds. Other programming includes meet-ups with insect and arthropod scientists, a beetlejuice cochineal beetle dye demo, a mead-making demonstration, an exhibit of a preserved deep sea roach, insectinspired music, insect-tasting, a bug banquet, and more. Traditional Cajun dishes will be prepared by Chef Colt Patin and his students from the Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge and the Cub Scouts Pack 301. 11 am–4 pm. Free. Registration at atelierdelanature.org. 1

OCT 26th - OCT 27th

ARTS & CRAFTS

YELLOW LEAF ARTS FESTIVAL

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Embrace the whimsy of fall, small town charm, and some seasonal shopping with the Yellow Leaf Arts Festival at Parker Park in St. Francisville. Musicians, craftspeople, artists, and collectors have

gathered each year for over two decades now to hawk their wares and share their craft. Make sure to catch the home-grown music from the area's songwriters and musicians. Conner Burns, a ceramicist from Natchez, Mississippi is the festival's featured artist. 10 am–5 pm. Email artsforallstfrancisville@gmail.com for more information. 1

OCT

26th - OCT 27th

ANIMAL AFFAIRS

LOUISIANA WILDFOWL FESTIVAL

Mandeville, Louisiana

If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck in the Castine Center this weekend, it's probably a masterfully-carved decoy. The annual Louisiana Wildfowl Carvers & Collectors Guild Festival will bring hundreds of carvers from around the globe to Mandeville. The extensive list of categories include ducks, songbirds, fish, caricatures, wildlife, interpretive art, and more. There's an auction, live decoy carving demonstrations, decoy painting contest, and a head whittling contest. Arts and crafts exhibitors will also set up in the Castine Center, and vendors will be on hand to sell carving and painting supplies. $5; free for children younger than twelve. 9 am–5 pm. lwccg.com. 1

OCT 27th

BEER BASH

BOO & BREW IN NEW ROADS

New Roads, Louisiana

New Roads is hosting its third annual Boo & Brew Halloween event, which will fill downtown overlooking False River with craft beer, local food, live music, and Halloween activities for the kids. Local businesses will host a trick or treat, as well as face painting, balloon animals, pumpkin and costume contests, yard games, a live caricature artist, and more. 3 pm–7 pm. $10 adults, $5 kids, food and drinks sold separately. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 27th

FALL FAVORITES

HAINTS, HAUNTS, AND HALLOWEEN

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The LSU Rural Life Museum's annual event, "Haints, Haunts, and Halloween" honors the sights, sounds, and activities of an old-fashioned country Halloween. Storytelling, cake walks, pumpkin decorating, games, and the timeless art of trick-or-treating will take place on the museum’s grounds. Costumes encouraged, of course. 2 pm–4:30 pm. $12; $6 for ages 4–12; free for

ages 3 and younger. lsu.edu/rurallife. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 31st - NOV 3rd CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

LA FÊTE DES BAYOUS

Saint Amant, Louisiana

Our Lady of Holy Rosary Catholic Church hosts the annual La Fête des Bayous on the last weekend of October. Expect all the trappings of a great fall fair: rides, games, jambalaya and gumbo cookoffs, car show and talent show, live and silent auctions, and food for days. Special events include a Family Night featuring Boo with the Badge trick-or-treating, a Nun Run, and a talent show. Look forward to performances by Dusty Lee Guedry, Foret Tradition, Kenny Cornett, and more. 2 pm–8 pm Thursday; Mass at 8 am Friday, cook off at 2 pm, rides open 5 pm–11 pm; events start at 7 am Saturday, rides open 11 am–11 pm; Mass at 7 am and 10 am Sunday, rides noon–5 pm. geauxlafete.com or La Fête des Bayous on Facebook. 1

For all our October events, including the gobs we couldn’t fit in print, visit countryroadsmag.com/ events-and-festivals.

Upcoming Events

Harvest Days | Sat., Oct. 5 & Sun., Oct. 6 | 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. | LSU Rural Life Museum

Experience the history of 19th-century rural Louisiana during harvest time. Don't miss this unique opportunity to step back in time and explore Louisiana’s rich heritage! Tickets available at https://bit.ly/RLMHD2024

Corn Maze at Burden | Every Sat. in Oct. | 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. | LSU AgCenter Botanic Gardens

Traverse the maze. Meander through the sunflower fields. Ride a hayride and pick satsumas. Climb hay mountain. Explore the corn crib and more. Advance tickets required. Available at https://bit.ly/CornMaze24

Night Maze at Burden | Sat., Oct. 26 | 6-9 p.m. | LSU AgCenter Botanic Gardens

Try to find your way out of the corn maze in the dark at Night Maze. Wear your Halloween costume and enjoy hay mountain, the corn crib and games. Advance tickets available at https://bit.ly/CornMaze24

Haints, Haunts & Halloween | Sun., Oct. 27 | 2-4:30 p.m. | LSU Rural Life Museum

Immerse yourself in the sights, sounds and activities of an old-fashioned country fair. Enjoy storytelling, cake walks, games and trick-or-treating. Tickets available at https://bit.ly/RLMHHH2024

Presenting Sponsor Premiering this holiday season!

Step inside a glowing wonderland and discover a new festive tradition. Experience the radiant beauty of historic Windrush Gardens at Burden, exquisitely lit for the holidays. Tickets at DiscoverBurden.com/LaLights

An LSU and LSU AgCenter facility.

42 THE SPIRITS OF LUDEAU PITRE'S DIXIELAND RANCH // 45 IS THE GONZALES GHOST LIGHT A FEU FOLLET? // 48 PARANORMAL INVESTIGATIONS IN DOWNTOWN OPELOUSAS •

HAUNTINGS

RECALLING

A Tale of Two Spirits

THE BOOTLEGGING DAYS OF PRAIRIE RONDE, AND THE GHOSTS THAT WERE LEFT BEHIND

By Boisy Pitre

Drive through any part of rural south Louisiana and you’ll witness remnants of the past intermingled with the present. Modern homes and metal buildings dot the landscape of highways and byways, broken up by the occasional dilapidated barn or abandoned sharecropper’s shack.

The small farming community of Prairie Ronde is one such place. A pastoral tableau etched into the northwestern corner of St. Landry Parish, it appears quiet and sublime. Yet beneath the surface is a history that belies today’s quaint, still veneer. This

hamlet, whose French name means “Round Prairie,” was well known as a hub of some of the most significant moonshine operations during the Prohibition years of the late 1920s and early 1930s. It was a time when the hush of night was broken by the clandestine bubbling of stills, the sweet scent of corn mash soaked into the air.

During that tumultuous era, drinkers from the surrounding communities of Mamou, Ville Platte, Chataignier, and Plaisance imbibed on Prairie Ronde’s famous “white mule” whiskey, as it was known. The liquid rotgut put money in pockets of those who dared to manufacture and sell it, and sent more than a few bootleggers behind bars.

A famous federal raid in the fall of 1927 captured what was then the largest still in southwestern Louisiana. Over one hundred barrels of moonshine, 471 gallons of buried whiskey, and equipment including boilers, oil stoves, and tools worth thousands of dollars were unceremoniously destroyed. Two years later, another large still in the area was raided by federal agents.

One of those moonshiners was my great-grandfather, Ludeau Pitre. He was in his in early twenties when the Eighteenth Amendment to the U.S. constitution passed in 1919, prohibiting alcohol from being sold and consumed throughout the country. For him, like many others eking out a subsistence in farming, the restriction gave way to opportunities to earn handsome sums of money by making and trading the illicit elixir.

Growing up, I was regaled with tales from my father about “défunt papa,” like the one where he rolled whiskey barrels into the pond behind his

An article published in the Opelousas News on September 29, 1927 regarding a major federal raid of a Southwestern Louisiana liquor still, in which over one hundred barrels of moonshine and 471 gallons of whiskey were confiscated

An article published on November 26, 1928 regarding the arrest of the writer's great grandfather Ludeau Pitre.

Eva and Ludeau Pitre (below), who owned the Dixieland Ranch house pictured above.

The Dixieland Ranch House pictured in 2022, just before it was demolished a year later. The fireplace is the same from which Delton Ludeau purportedly heard a jar of marbles crash and fall, only to walk into the living room and discover the jar untouched on the mantel.

landholders in the area with enough acreage to employ over a dozen tenant farmers—including famous Creole musician Eraste “Dolan” Carrière.

Then there were the other spirits, those that haunted his old home.

Located along Highway 103 near the Prairie Ronde Baptist Church, Ludeau’s house stood for nearly a century until it was demolished in January of 2023. By that time, both the home and property had been in the hands of the George Fontenot family for fifty years.

“C’EST

of the homestead’s hauntings. An older, now-deceased cousin of mine relayed how years ago, my great-grandfather’s workers were instructed to dig up and move a small graveyard in order to clear the land for the house.

MA TERRE MAINTENANT, PAS LA LEUR."

where gold coins were buried on his property.

—LUDEAU PITRE

“C’est ma terre maintenant, pas la leur,” he is rumored to have said.

Growing up, I heard not only the moonshine tales but the enduring lore

If such a bold move weren’t enough to wake the restless spirits, another myth told of how they had appeared in a dream to Ludeau, telling him

Yet another concerned Delton, Ludeau’s oldest son, who kept a jar of marbles on a fireplace mantle. One day while in another part of the house, he and his mother heard the crash of the jar and the sound of marbles scattering along the floor. When they went to the source of the noise, the marbles remained resting in the jar on the mantle, undisturbed.

Then there was the time that Sheriff “Cat” Doucet and his deputy left abruptly during an evening meal

when they heard a door slam out of nowhere—a small but telling indication of the house's eerie atmosphere (as well as Ludeau’s cozy relationship to the sheriff’s department).

Ludeau and his wife are said to have often heard the sound of chains in the attic at night. The old man was unbothered by them, said to have dismissed these disturbances and returned to sleep without worry.

There were more tales, like those of the glowing ball of light that would dance at the far end of the hall, and a headless apparition that appeared at night in the yard.

In 2022, driven by curiosity about these stories, I reached out to the ghost hunting group Louisiana Spirits to investigate these long-standing tales of hauntings. With the permission of the property owner at the time, the team set a date for an exploratory investigation.

Equipped with cameras, microphones, and a motion-activated electronic doll that had an eerie resemblance to a horror film prop, the team began setting up in various parts of the house. The doll went in Nonc Delton’s boyhood room, where the fireplace mantle was.

That evening, we sat around in the dark with flashlights, whispering ghost stories, while the team walked from room to room asking questions to unknown inhabitants. Momentarily, the electronic doll let out a noise and the handheld receiver flashed, indicating something moved in the room.

Some days after the field investigation was complete, a team member contacted me saying that they had recorded several EVPs, or “Electronic Voice Phenomena”.

In January of 2023, the Ludeau home finally met its end. The center-matched walls that were rumored to hold the cold hard cash of Ludeau’s whiskey-making ventures began to break and crumble under the heave of an excavator. As the weeks went by, more and more of house was reduced to piles of wooden and brick rubble. A few hidden gems emerged: a leather rifle scabbard, some glassware, but no sign or hint of a graveyard where the cypress floor joists once held wooden tongue-in-groove planks in place. Nor did we find any moonshine treasure. By the end of that cold month, everything was gone. Only the bare, soft, wet ground that once held the brick pilings stood as a testament to the spirits of a bygone era. •

The Gonzales Ghost Light

THE GHOSTS OF UNBAPTIZED BABIES, LOST SOULS, OR SWAMP GAS?

By E.C. Michna

n the 1960s in Gonzales, Louisiana, teenagers would dare each other to drive out to Roddy Road at night, where they would stop their cars and turn off all the lights. And occasionally, a headlight-sized glow would emerge, blinking on and off, on and off, slowly levitating toward them . . .

There isn’t much information available on the phenomenon that is the “Gonzales Ghost Light” besides a few online postings—the most detailed of which appears on Lane Casteix’s Catahoula Chronicles. As a high schooler in 1962, he went to see the light with his friends multiple times. He describes how “It changed from red to blue to green and various colors and back again. It was fairly small in size; I would guess a bit larger than a basketball . . . It was not well defined but it wasn’t a vague shape either.”

One time, they drove closer to try and determine where the light was coming from, suspecting that it may have been another car’s headlight, but they found nothing there. Suddenly, the light charged towards them and scared them away.

Another witness, Willis Tanner, commented under Cateix’s blog: “I don’t remember ever going and not seeing them. On a few occasions, the light would pass through the car. But through the years, the development of the area made it impossible to go park on the road with our headlights off.”

The Gonzales Light isn’t the first of its kind; Cajuns have been passing down information on the phenomena of ghostly lights since their earliest years in Louisiana—often referring to them as “feu follet,” which translates to “marsh fire” or “crazy fire”. The lore describes them much like the Gonzales Light—bright orbs that move and flicker deep in the swamp after sunfall. Supposedly, they try to lead people deep into the woods, or to their deaths.

One of the earliest documents on Cajun people, the “Breaux Manuscript” (1901), includes the tale of a young man who encountered a feu

We have heard tell that some sixty years ago (c. 1840) a young man returning to his father's house at Chacahoula was preceded by a light which had suddenly sprung from a bramble patch in a form resembling a lamp. It dazzled him completely; he did not know where his footsteps took him, and was led by the light to the edge of a large swamp with rather deep water. Suspecting that he was being drawn on by a follet, he had the presence of mind to throw his hat on

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the little lake. Immediately the follet jumped on it. At that moment the young man realized where he was and what had happened. He returned to his father's possessed by an inexpressible fear and expressed the cause of his concern only with the greatest difficulty. The next day at dawn, he returned to the swamp and saw there his hat still floating on the water."

Another common way to repel the lights is by sticking a knife or a fence post in the ground. Or, according to blogger Cole Kinchen, one can try to pass the light through the eye of a needle.

Bilbo Cemetery in Lake Charles is another place of frequent sightings; over the years, there have been multiple reports about ghost lights floating around the gravestones after dark. Google the term “spooklights,” and you can find examples from across the US, including in our neighboring state, Texas, where the Marfa Lights have mystified visitors for years. While in South Louisiana, such wonders are referred to as the feu follet, other cultures each have their own names for the mysterious lights, from the German Irrwisch to the Japanese Hitodama. A more familiar name is the English will-o’-the-wisp, or the Irish Jack o’ Lantern. In these tales, both Will and Jack are men who were exiled from heaven and doomed to wander the Earth with just a burning ember to guide them.

Per Cajun lore, the feu follet are believed to be the souls of unbaptized babies who passed away. Occasionally, they are referred to as lost souls of the dead in general—those like Will and Jack who were banned from heaven and then take vengeance on Earth. Some folklorists categorize the lights as vampires, since in some myths they are rumored to suck children’s blood. People have also historically referred to them as “swamp fairies,” which suggests a whole other world of meanings.

“IT CHANGED FROM RED TO BLUE TO GREEN AND VARIOUS COLORS AND BACK AGAIN. IT WAS FAIRLY SMALL IN SIZE; I WOULD GUESS A BIT LARGER THAN A BASKETBALL . . . IT WAS NOT WELL DEFINED BUT IT WASN’T A VAGUE SHAPE EITHER.”

— LANE CASTEIX

Finally, there’s the scientific explanation: swamp gas. This happens when pockets of phosphine or other gases meet with oxygen and form a chemical reaction, which creates light. The gases form from organic decay beneath the ground or water. So yeah, some of these light sightings around the world are likely to be swamp or marsh gas— especially when they’re close to the ground and stay relatively in one place. But the Gonzales Light is undeniably different. It has always been described as large, easily identifiable, and seems to move closer to its viewers.

Also eluding the swamp gas theories are the more famous Marfa Lights, which have attracted much scientific attention over the years. In Cowboys, Cops, Killers, and Ghosts: Legends and Lore in Texas, Stephanie Mateum describes how the Marfa Lights could move spontaneously and change colors, just like the Gonzales Light. The theory of headlights was eliminated, and there is no swampy area nearby for gas reactions. Though scientists have proposed various theories, a confirmed one with clear evidence is yet to emerge…and perhaps never will.

When people see something unnatural, the natural reaction is either to be afraid of it or to try and explain it. Without the shield of technology, early Louisianans and other cultures in the past were surrounded by legends like the feu follet. Whether literally or metaphorically, they lived closer to magic, and they lived closer to danger. They had to approach such situations with the utmost caution and respect. Today, we can disconnect, and we can joust with rationality. Progress has stifled our sense of the mystical and harnessed the order of the natural world; so too has access to the Gonzales Ghost Light been blocked off. As much as we can speculate over its “true” explanations, it will likely always remain a mystery. •

THINGS UNSEEN

"Don't Run"

AND OTHER LESSONS FROM A NIGHT WITH LOUISIANA SPIRITS PARANORMAL INVESTIGATIONS

Story by Shanna Dickens

Historic downtown Opelousas, including the Delta Theater, which was recently investigated by Louisiana Spirits. Marci Lee, State Director of Louisiana Spirits Paranormal Investigators, believes the entire area of downtown Opelousas is the most spiritually active area she has ever encountered. Photo courtesy of the State Library of Louisiana.

Aline of more than thirty people snakes up the steps of the St. Landry Parish Courthouse, where its occupants settle into the courtroom benches, signing release waivers and sipping coffee and energy drinks despite the sun setting through the windows. Centuries-old judges leer from their disordered portraits on the walls, while, behind the pulpit, eight people

in matching black T-shirts hand out raffle tickets. "Get out your raffle tickets," one announces.

"We’re giving away a K2 electromagnetic energy reader." A gasp ripples through the crowd. This is no ordinary trip to the courthouse—it’s Ghost Hunting Class 101 with Louisiana Spirits Paranormal Investigations, and the participants range from all walks of life, even the afterlife.

With K2s in hand, the group spent the evening investigating four of downtown Opelousas’s most “spiritually active” locations: The Courthouse, The Delta Grand Theatre, The Shutes building, the St. Landry Bank

Annex, and the Black Pot Bookshop. The group prefers the term “active” to “haunted,” because of its negative connotations. Marci Lee, State Director of Louisiana Spirits Paranormal Investigators, believes that the entire area of downtown Opelousas is the most active area she has ever encountered.

In 2005, Brad Duplechien embarked on a journey to uncover the mysteries that linger just beyond the veil, founding the group, Louisiana Spirits. What began as a personal quest has evolved into a statewide endeavor, with five chapters spread across Louisiana, each guided by a case manager.

Now, with thirty-three members, Louisiana Spirits has become a beacon for those seeking answers in a field that fascinates many, but is often misunderstood—offering not just investigations,

but education and support for the curious and the cynical.

One of the first questions the Louisiana Spirits team asks participants is, "Are there any skeptics here tonight?"

At the Opelousas event, four hands shot up, followed by a few knowing laughs of the more seasoned participants in the room. According to Lee, "We have many skeptics that attend our events and classes, many of whom leave less skeptical." She recalled one such case at the Shutes building: "A gentleman came in as a skeptic and left as a believer. During the investigation, he had his arm grabbed in one of the rooms. He left abruptly and was hesitant to finish the night. We love when skeptics have personal experiences because it validates the owners' claims and our evidence from these locations."

Image by Joshua Leeman. CC BY 3.0.

The Opelousas courthouse, photographed in 1950, which was recently investigated by Louisiana Spirits. Photo courtesy of the State Library of Louisiana.

It doesn’t take long for everyone to begin embracing the eerie. In a back dressing room at The Delta Grand Theatre, the first group stood in complete darkness, each person taking turns letting the spirits know whether they were comfortable being touched. All but one were open to the experience. When it came time to speak to the spirits, it was a self-described skeptic who broke the silence, asking into the pitch-black, "Are you happy where you are?"

Watching the team prepare for an investigation can feel like being a member of a live studio audience for a paranormal-themed sitcom. Some members are meticulously checking the equipment, ensuring cameras and sound systems are ready. Others are busy counting and charging the ghost-hunting gear, while a few more are elbow-deep in historical documents, piecing together the storied past of the location. Every person has their part, and each one brings a unique skill to the table.

“We have investigators, lead investi-

gators, case managers, and equipment managers—everyone has a role,” said Lee. “Case managers contact clients, set up investigations, gather information and claims, and then write reports with evidence for our website. Equipment managers make sure each piece has fresh batteries and is functioning properly. They also set up equipment and cameras in locations. Lead investigators and their teams do walkthroughs to get baseline readings and assist with setting up equipment.”

The equipment used to convene with the dead range from cat toys that light up and roll when touched, to more technical tools, like Rem Pods, which detect fluctuations in electromagnetic fields and K2 meters, which

measure electromagnetic activity. And then there’s the spirit box—a small radio that sounds like scrambled static until a voice or unexplained noise cuts through, like a police scanner for the paranormal. Lee’s favorite device is a traditional voice recorder. “This is where you capture voices, screams or noises you may not hear audibly,” she explained. “The best part is if you get an answer to a question you’ve asked, like ‘can you tell me your name?’”

Once the equipment is in place, investigators begin instructing the spirits on how to use them. “If you touch this, it’ll light up. Can you do that for us?” one of them says in a near whisper, pointing to the Rem Pod. “We’re not here to hurt you,” they assured gently. “We just want to visit, get to know you, ask you some questions.” It’s like trying to coax a feral cat into your home, thinking that maybe there’s a chance, but knowing you truly have no control, and that they could vanish as quickly as they appeared.

Oftentimes investigations are as much about debunking experiences as they are validating them. “We debunk a lot of claims, which puts the client’s mind at ease,” Lee said. “If we do find actual evidence, we reassure the client that these spirits are just people like you and me. They are just no longer living. If we believe the spirit has no malicious intent, there’s no reason they can’t coexist. However, if the client prefers they move on, we reach out to people to help them with that.” Spectators attending Louisiana Spirits events are welcome to bring their own investigation tools and use any paranormal apps on their phones, but the team will attempt to debunk any findings in pursuit of genuine activity.

“I think the paranormal fascinates people because either they’ve had their own experience or they want to know what’s out there,” Lee reasoned. “I think that’s why so many people go on Bigfoot excursions, UFO exploring, and ghost investigations.”

Taking part in the Louisiana Spirits event in Opelousas, I felt a particular what-was-that giddiness, a nostalgic feeling of playing hide and seek, as though I wanted to simultaneously stay hidden and jump out from my hiding spot. Like playing truth or dare and

secretly hoping for a dare. But there was also a stillness, a singular focus in which I felt myself hoping to encounter the paranormal, the unexplained. It was almost meditative.

“It’s a lot of work and dedication,” Lee admitted. “It takes compassion not only to the clients, but also the spirits that inhabit these locations.”

Before leaving the Delta Grand, one of the investigators leaned into the spirit box and asked, “If we give you a secret word, will you relay it to the next group? Then, we’ll know you’re here."

The group mulled over what their secret code should be; someone blurted out, “bacon.”

Between bouts of laughter, we agreed—“bacon” was the perfect choice.

As we strolled across downtown Opelousas, discussing mundane topics like Netflix shows, we arrived at The

Black Pot Bookshop. Inside, M.L. Bullock, author of paranormal novels, was set up with books and all manner of spooky acoutrements. As you’d expect from a self-proclaimed "author, adventurer, and paranormal investigator," Bullock had several EVP apps on her phone. While the group wandered the shop, she activated the Necrophonic app.

Suddenly, a disembodied, strangled voice gasped, “Bacon.”

Members of the group froze, wideeyed and mouths gaping, before scrambling to fire up their own paranormal apps. Kinetic ones showed neon-green stick figures materializing and dissolving into scattered points of light, while EVPs spat out names and random words in rapid succession. True to form, the Louisiana Spirits team gathered at the end of the night to sift through the evidence, beginning the meticulous process of debunking or validating each sight and sound. •

This fall, Louisiana Spirits has a lineup of supernatural events, including appearances from paranormal celebrities. You can keep up with them on Facebook at Louisiana Spirits and Cajun Country Paracon, visit their website at laspirits.com, or check out their investigation footage on YouTube at youtube.com/@laspirits.

ORESTAURANTS

Tatlo

A PLACE FOR THE WITCHES OF NEW ORLEANS TO CONVENE OVER SPIRITUALLY-INFUSED DRINKS AND DISHES

Story

by Sophie Nau • Photos by Stephanie Tarrant

ne recent summer evening, I was walking along Bourbon Street—soaking in the persistent echo of drums on overturned buckets, the smells and shouts of drinking that started hours before and would continue well into the night. I rounded the corner of the Old

House and waited until

7 pm, when the gate opened and Miles Hunt placed a handwritten sign on the ground: “Witchcraft Cocktails.” Walking through the little side yard and into the low-lit speakeasy, the scents and the noise of Bourbon disappeared, replaced by the earthy fragrance of sage and the crooning of Amy Winehouse. The walls were lined with tributes to the feminine occult and a

tarot reader held residence in the corner. Potions lined the shelf above the rows of absinthe and local spirits.

But this is no French Quarter schtick. Tatlo Divine Cuisine and Absinthe House is infused with genuine—there’s no other way to say it—witchcraft.

Tatlo, which means “three” in the Tboli dialect of the Philippines, de-

scribes itself as a “witchy Filipino” bar, and is the brainchild of Cristina Quackenbush, of Milkfish fame, with longtime collaborator Hayley Vanvleet (of Belle Époque, amongst others), and Anh Luu of Bywater Brew Pub. Drawing from their own commitments to manifestation and spell work, they’ve set out to create a food and drink experience that

Absinthe

draws upon ancestry, herbalism, and, most importantly, intention.

“When I come to work, I love coming here, because it feels like my space,” Quackenbush said when she sat down with me at the bar. “We put a protection spell on it.”

Behind the bar, Vanvleet poured me a Zodiaquiri, a rotating cocktail that changes with the astrological seasons. When I visited, we were in peak Leo season, and the Zodiaquiri on offer was a Beet and Chinese Five Spice Daiquiri, composed with a three-year local barrel aged rum from Atelier Vie and beet syrup made from locally grown beets. The result was balanced and nourishing.

When it comes to herbalism, the women of Tatlo are carrying on a centuries-old tradition that goes back to the days when the average person didn’t have access to doctors. The healing practices that resulted out of necessity were largely led by women—whose traditions were carried forth through generations as their gender was continuously excluded from education opportunities in “modern” medicine. Those who still practiced healing by way of natural remedies and herbs were often vilified by society as “witches.”

“I’m trying to change the mindset of witchcraft being sacrilegious,” Quackenbush said, who was raised on a

This venture finds Vanvleet, who typically helms a kitchen, stepping behind the bar for the first time. Quackenbush said, “I’ve never met someone who can put together flavors so well. So, it has to translate over to bartending, let’s try it out!”

Cocktails are already potion-like. They cast love spells and serve as good luck charms. But the concoctions at Tatlo are designed with spiritual benefits in mind. The Spell Breaker, made with pineapple and calamansi, is meant to nurture endings and rebirth, while Hecate’s Crossroad, with lavender and Prosecco, calls upon the Greek goddess of magic and the underworld. Vanvleet researched the herbs associated with Hecate, as she does for every cocktail, finding only two that were nonpoisonous.

farm in the Midwest. “My angle is from a completely different point of view . . . I grew up learning a lot about herbs. For me this project is the culmination of all of the different experiences I’ve had with herbs and manifestations and the power of the energy that surrounds us.”

Many of the herbs and plants Quackenbush grows make their way into the food and drink on Tatlo’s menu.

“When you do it yourself, you have such attention,” she said. “You gotta love it. You gotta wait for it to grow.”

Intention is at the core of Quackenbush’s practice, and a principle she has returned to time and again in her life. When it comes to Tatlo’s menu, she spares no detail, drawing on years of research into the healing powers of food.

“I use my experience as a chef to be able to put all these flavors together,” she

Cristina Quackenbush, owner and chef at Tatlo.

said. “It’s more than just sustenance, but to help make people feel better.”

Just like the cocktails, the menu lists the spiritual benefits of each dish. Anyone familiar with tarot readings would guess by the name that the Four of Swords—with a Longganisa sausage patty and fontina cheese—promotes “rest, relaxation, and recuperation.” I was also drawn to the affluence and strength promised by the Peanut Butter & Belly, a cut of pork belly that arrived nestled beside a trio of rolled up strips of eggplant and under glistening bok choy and fried longbean, with a peanut butter sauce that fell somewhere between broth and roux. For dessert, I was transported to the ancestral realm with the ube rice cake—or bebinka—bright purple and with a spell of ginger that added complexity to the sweetness.

Just as soul food calls upon lineage and home, Quackenbush’s connection to her ancestors shines through her tribute to traditional Filipino cuisine. By renaming the dishes she takes inspiration from, she gives herself the flexibility to put her own magic on them, while still invoking memories for diners familiar with, say, kare-kare—the dish the Peanut Butter and Belly riffs on.

Quackenbush wants Tatlo to be a place of healing. After cooking for guests, she’ll often come out to the dining room and talk to each table. Sometimes she brings out a deck of reflection cards, and more than once a guest has

worked through something powerful by the time they’re through talking with her.

So, I had to ask: how did a place so intent on harmonious connections end up just off Bourbon Street?

“I would have never thought in a million years that I would have worked on Bourbon Street,” Quackenbush said, but the space seems to have been written in the stars. In the early days of the Old Absinthe House, women were not allowed to drink with the men, so legend has it that they were sent into the back room that Tatlo currently occupies to imbibe. After former tenant Belle Époque closed, Quackenbush pitched her concept. Her son Miles, who previously worked alongside her at Milkfish, got to work transforming the space into a speakeasy for witchy solace. “The connections came together so fast,” Quackenbush said.

Serving absinthe also felt cosmically aligned. The origin of the Green Fairy is often attributed to the invention of Dr. Pierre Ordinaire of Couvet, Switzerland in 1792, who then sold the recipe to the Henriod sisters. But other tales say the Henriod sisters created it themselves before he came to town and sold it as a medicine for menstrual ailments (Those potions on the wall, by the way, are tinctures for cramps and hot flashes made by Quackenbush).

“So [Tatlo is] women running a bar that used to be a secret space for women selling a spirit that was created by wom-

en for women,” Vanvleet said. “I feel like there’s a lot of power in this space.”

Not unlike witches, absinthe’s reputation has been tarnished by the lingering stigmatism of government bans, not

to mention mishandling in service. But to try absinthe properly is a delightful experience, the complex flavors gently unwinding in the glass after it has been “louched.” Vanvleet demonstrated this

French technique for me, placing her favorite absinthe spoon (in the shape of a fairy) over my glass with a sugar cube on top, and then slowly pouring water over it until it dissolved into the absinthe.

“It’s really polarizing because it’s been done wrong so many times. When it’s not done right it’s not pleasant,” Vanvleet said. I sipped my glass of her favorite New World producer, the Opal by Violet Crown Spirits, and tasted notes of anise and fennel. The flavor of New World absinthe tends to be more balanced against the spirit’s characteristic punchiness and vegetal tones, she explained.

“I’d say I turn people into absinthe drinkers…” She paused to consider. “More than occasionally.”

Vanvleet and Quackenbush hope that Tatlo will be a part in unifying the covens of the Crescent City, and a welcoming space for people to relax and explore. Not everybody who walks in from Bourbon street is game for the concept, and that’s okay with the team.

“People who belong here find us,” Vanvleet said.

When I walked out of Tatlo and back into the swampy air, I was greeted with the brash cries of a second line marching down Bienville and into the fray of Bourbon. It was almost as if Tatlo, a secret haven in the French Quarter, had blessed me back into the night. •

tatlo.co

Left: From the Tatlo menu, (right) the ube rice cake, of "bebinka" and (right) Peanut Butter and Belly, inspired by the Filipino dish," kare-kare".

Soupçon

A DASH OF DINING NEWS

By CR Editorial Staff

Hispanic Heritage, Served Louisiana-Style

Each year between September 15 and October 15, Hispanic Heritage Month recognizes the contributions and influence of Hispanic Americans to the history, culture, and achievements of the United States. In these parts, one such achievement belongs to New Orleans’ Chef Melissa Araujo, who, at her Bywater restaurant Alma Café, pays tribute to her native Honduras and her grandmother’s cooking, in dishes like Baleadas, Pollo Chuco, Fritas Hondurenas, and Chicharron con Yuca. At Alma Café (Alma means “soul” in Spanish), Araujo’s flair for bringing classic Honduran flavors to life with modern techniques and peerless Louisiana produce led to her being named a James Beard: Best Chef South semifinalist for 2024. So, next time you’re in New Orleans, consider a visit to Alma Café to find

Bring It Home. In the spirit of Hispanic Heritage Month, Chef Melissa shared her recipe for Aguachile Negro, her take on a ceviche-style summer dish you’ll find served in myriad regional

variations throughout Mexico and Central America. See Chef Melissa’s recipe at the Country Roads website, or pay a visit to Alma Café at 800 Louisiana Street. eatalmanola.com

In November, Chef Araujo will be among twenty-eight Louisiana and Mississippi chefs gathering at The Myrtles for the sixth annual St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival. stfrancisvillefoodandwine.com.

Nicole Cabrera Mills Named a “Best New Chef” by Food & Wine

For its September “Restaurants” issue, the nationally-acclaimed epicurean monthly Food & Wine announced its annual slate of “Best New Chef” awards. And naturally, they turned to New Orleans. Honoring thirteen chefs who have been in charge of a kitchen or pastry program for five years or less, who represent the “future of cooking in America,” this year’s award landed upon the shoulders of Nicole Cabrera Mills, the Chef de Cuisine at Pêche NOLA. Mills opened Donald Link and Ryan Prewitt’s live fire-meets-raw bar concept in 2013 as a line cook, and has since worked her way up to infusing the menu with the flavors of her childhood in the Philippines. Taking note of the ways Louisiana flavors and Filipino flavors overlap—especially in their use of citrus, acids, and vinegar—Mills has elevated the dining experience at Pêche to something elegantly subtle, but bright and new: the glazed turnips have a citrus and gochugaru glaze, the Royal red shrimp a nuoc cham-inspired sauce, the red fish is wrapped in a banana leaf. And the chile garlic sauce? The recipe comes from Mills’ mother, who ran a dumpling stand in Cagayan de Oro and sold the sauce by the gallon. pecherestaurant.com.

National Gumbo Day—October 12, 2024

Sweater weather. PSL season. In Louisiana, this time of year is nothing less than gumbo time. On October 12, the entire nation will celebrate the dish that has so come to define Louisiana’s cuisine. Here are three ways to honor (indulge in) the best of our culinary traditions:

• Read Jonathan Olivier’s new book, Gumbo: Published earlier this year by LSU Press, Gumbo explores the multicultural origins and interpretations of the dish we know and love, tracing it back to West Africa and the Choctaw, to the Spanish Caribbean and the Germans, and of course the French.

• Find a g reat recipe, and get out your pot: We recommend turning to cookbooks by your favorite local chefs, or to neighborhood/church cookbooks, where tradition looms large. Even better, call your grandma.

• Attend a festival: It’s the heart of festival season here in Louisiana, and our favorite cuisines are on full display. Get out your calendars and make plans to try a range of local gumbos at events like the Louisiana Gumbo Festival in Chackbay on October 11–14, the World Champion Gumbo Cook-Off in New Iberia on October 12–14, the Blackpot Festival and Cook-Off in Lafayette on October 25–27, or the Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival on November 9–10.

Ralph Brennan Bakery goes Retail

In September, the stealth operations of the Ralph Brennan culinary empires most under-the-radar arm stepped out into the light. Typically operating behind the scenes in world-renowned New Orleans restaurants Brennan’s Ralph’s on the Park, Redfish Grill, Café NOMA, and Napoleon House—Baker Drew Pope’s Ralph Brennan Bakery is responsible for all of the delicious fresh-baked breads enjoyed by diners across the Crescent City. They make an appearance annually at Mardi Gras, when they ramp up operations at their bakery in Gert Town to produce 30,000 Brennan King Cakes.

But now, the beloved English muffins from Brennan’s eggs Benedict, the ciabatta, and the baguettes—plus more artisanal breads and desserts—will be available for purchase in local grocery stores, as Ralph Brennan Bakery launches its new retail business. Already, you can purchase the baked goods at Acquistapace’s Supermarket in Covington, one of the first places to sell the now-beloved Brennan King Cakes. ralphbrennanbakery.com acquistapace.com

Bayou: Feasting Through the Seasons of a Cajun Life

James Beard Award-winning author and chef Melissa Martin, known for her New Orleans restaurant Mosquito Supper Club and cookbook by the same name, has just released a new, beautifully rendered deep-dive into the culinary traditions of the Louisiana bayou in the form of her new cookbook, Bayou: Feasting Through the Seasons of a Cajun Life. This time, Martin carries the reader/cook through a journey of the seasons of the Cajun calendar. With stunning photography by Denny Culbert and accompanying essays on the topics of abundance, decadence, simplicity, and resilience; the act of cooking is presented as a spiritual, irrevocable part of life in this part of the world. Now available at mosquitosupperclub.com

Chef Melissa Araujo of Alma Café in New Orleans, where she pays tribute to her native Honduras in dishes like Baleadas, Pollo Chuco, Fritas Hondurenas, and Chicharron con Yuca. Visit our website for Araujo's recipe for Aguachile Negro, or catch her at our upcoming St. Francisville Food and Wine Festival in November.

RESTAURANTS

A Nightcap at the Jewel

INSIDE ONE OF THE MOST DECORATED COCKTAIL BARS IN NEW

By Susan Marquez

Though Chris Hannah is not a New Orleans native, his dedication to infusing the city’s rich history into the bar program at Jewel of the South is evidence that he’s right at home in the Crescent City. “When I finally made it to New Orleans, I found an entire service industry who all thought of this industry as a career, and it’s the first time I’ve witnessed this,” said Hannah, who has been bartending for twenty-seven years. For his creative and thoughtful approaches to spirited beverages, he was recognized this year by the prestigious James Beard Foundation as the recipient of the Outstanding Bar Award and by the Tales of a Cocktail Foundation as Best U.S. Bar Team.

Since Hannah, with partners Victoria Espinel and John Stubbs, opened the classic but elevated New Orleans tavern in 2019, several awards have found their way to the bar’s walls. At Tales of the Cocktail in 2022, Jewel of the South was named the United States Bar of the Year and Hannah was named the Bartender of the Year. The bar was also named “Best Bar in the South USA” on the 2023 and 2024 World’s 50 Best Bars list. No stranger to accolades, before his stint at Jewel of the South, Hannah ran the bar at Arnaud’s French 75 Bar for fourteen years, where he also won a

James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar Program for three years in a row, from 2015–2017.

Seeping with history, Jewel of the South’s Creole cottage on St. Louis Street is more than 200 years old. The name is a reference to a nineteenth-century establishment on Gravier Street, where Joseph Santini, one of the most famous bartenders of his time, created what has become a classic New Orleans cocktail—the Brandy Crusta. A Cognac drink, the cocktail includes lemon juice, Curacao, and maraschino liqueur, garnished with a long twist of lemon peel and served in a glass with a sugared rim (the crusta). Today the Brandy Crusta is one of the signature cocktails at Jewel of the South.

Entry to the establishment is at the back of the building, where a lush patio serves as a relaxing place to meet up with friends or to enjoy a romantic night out. Inside, the time-worn patina mixed with modern touches lends a romantic ambiance—cozy and refined, but not at all stuffy.

The bar is welcoming, and many choose to perch there to watch as Hannah works his magic. Within his reach are bottles of spirits, liqueurs, tinctures, bitters, and shrubs. He confidently measures each ingredient, sometimes by eye, then stirs or shakes to handcraft a blend

ORLEANS

Legend bartender Chris Hannah at his St. Louis tavern, Jewel of the South. All photos courtesy of Jewel of the South.

Brandy Crusta, a signature drink at Jewel of the South.

of flavors that hits every tastebud. Drinks are then garnished with fresh herbs, flowers, or fruit before they are served to the guest to enjoy.

“The cocktails here are all approachable, whether you’re a versed cocktail drinker or not,” he said. “That was always my style and it spurs from the hospitality our service industry instills in our industry workers. Everyone is welcome and everyone should enjoy themselves.”

Though Jewel of the South is best known for its renowned cocktail program, it’s also a full-service restaurant. “The food program is the surprise twist upon arrival and settling in at Jewel of the South,” says Hannah. “Chef Whitmarsh has honed a very disciplined, special craft in creating the perfect bite in and on each plate leaving the kitchen.”

The London-born Chef de Cuisine Philip Whitmarsh moved to New Orleans in 2015 with his wife, Mollie, a Louisiana native. Before joining the Jewel team, he served as a sous chef under Nina Compton (another James Beard award winner) at Compere Lapin. His British-meets-Cajun cuisine features distinctly rustic flavors that complement the bare brick and dark wood surroundings.

The menu is ever evolving, drawing on seasonal ingredients. We chose crab cakes, smoked tuna served with house-baked bread, and foie gras. All were small, but sharable, plates and each bite was an explosion of flavors. Jewel of the South also has a popular caviar program with several choices sold by the ounce, from wild and smoky Bowfin to buttery farm-raised Osetra, all served with potato scallops, crème fraîche, and chives. “Casual Caviar” is the caviar happy hour held each Wednesday evening.

The wine program at Jewel of the South is worth noting, with classic labels listed beside cult favorites, and what Hannah refers to as “new talent.” He works with Whitmarsh to come up with the perfect wine pairings. “Here’s the fun part—Priorat Pissares with traditional English black pudding, or Burgenland Mulatschak to enjoy with our Eccles cake,” he said.

To ensure he’s always offering the best and most exciting cocktails he can conceive of, Hannah spends time traveling and witnessing cocktail cultures in other countries. “It inspires me, and I’m also inspired by learning more about the history of New Orleans’s cocktail and bartending contributions to the world’s cocktail industry,” he said.

A popular cocktail across New Orleans, the French 75 is elevated in a subtle, yet distinctive way by Hannah. A nod to his time at Arnaud’s, he crafts his version with D’usse Cognac, lemon, simple syrup, and sparkling wine. For those who want to take it to the next level, the $45 version is the Baller French 75, made with D’usse XO Cognac and Ti baut-Schloesser Brut “Origine.”

The Brandy Crusta is made with Remy 1738 Co gnac, Pierre Ferrand dry Curacao, lemon Luxardo maraschino cherries, and Angostura bitters with a sugar rim. If you want to amp it up, order the Upper Crusta, made with Remy XO Cognac, Grand Mar nier, and Cointeau for $58.

While you can order a standard gin and tonic or bourbon on the rocks, the adventurous will lean to wards the Pouves-Vous Poulet, made with duck and chicken fat-washed rums, smoked maple syrup, and Bitter Queen’s Caribbean bitters. For sipping, there is also a Solid Gold Fashioned that features J. Rieger Monogram Whiskey, gold demerara sugar, and bit ters.

Hannah says Jewel of the South as it is today is drawn from his original vision. “It took ‘evolving’ for us to finally get here—the house, the team, and the bar and kitchen programs. What guests should know ahead of time is to relax. Everyone seated in side Jewel of South will have the chance to enjoy themselves and feel their efforts made in getting to our little Creole cottage on St. Louis Street inside the French Quarter worthwhile.” •

jewelnola.com.

Outdoors

OUR SUSTAINABLE GARDEN

Let the Leaves Fall Where They May

ONE MAN'S TRASH IS A GARDENER'S GOLD

By Jess Cole

Fall is here! It’s a precious time for any Louisianan, exhausted from months of trying summer heat. I observe a mood shift in most everyone I know. A lot of my community has the same sudden thought … It's time to get back out into our gardens and immerse ourselves in the natural world, whether that be a suburban backyard, woods nearby, or some hanging baskets swaying over your porch.

We are lucky to live in an intensely green world down here. We are surrounded by evergreen pines, hollies, and magnolias; lush tropicals; leaves clinging to our trees most of the year. Traditional Louisiana gardens, often centered around exotic azaleas and heirloom camellias, stay largely green year-round. But when embracing natives and exploring the natural world outside your city, you can also find plenty of fall color.

Our fall color is less dramatic than other parts of the country but we do have a fall season. Though short, it's all the more precious. I especially love driving

the country roads and seeing Virginia Creeper and Poison Ivy (among other deciduous vines) zigzagging their way brightly across the woods. One of my old horticulture professors was obsessed with talking about “fall color” and he claimed poison ivy had the best fall color of all. (Even plants with negative connotations have their place in this world). A client of mine once described the ever-changing fall colors in her yard as “slow motion fireworks”. That image has never left me.

The leaves of deciduous plants are full of chlorophyll. Plants put a lot of their resources into producing chlorophyll (food from the sun), which manifests as green. Green is the dominating pigment in leaves until the tree decides to stop producing chlorophyll and prepare for winter. These other hues (red, yellow, purple) have been just overshadowed by the intense green chlorophyll until now. Hey presto . . . fall color! When temps change and plants decide to prepare for winter and store their resources within themselves, they stop working so hard to produce chlorophyll, then the other pig-

ments are given the opportunity to show off, before the leaf falls off altogether. The plant takes a break, resting through the winter, to then use all that stored energy for brand new life come spring. This is the cycle of life in a tiny tree nutshell.

As the temps do their (very) slow shift, leaves change color, and the live oaks begin their fall leaf drop, all of my gardening comrades and I have one goal right about now. And that is to get as many bags of leaves off the side of the road as possible. We need these leaves for our gardens and compost bins. If we collect enough bags, we could have enough to get us all the way through the year until next fall. That is the dream. One yard man's bagged refuse is a gumptious gardener’s gold.

The first leaf hoarder I ever knew was my friend and garden mentor, Lindsey. I call Lindsey my fairy garden mother. Surrounded by shady woodland species, tall wildflowers, multi-generation bonsais, and infinite eclectic roadside found objects—she took my old friend and I under her wing and taught us all she

knew about plants and critters within her small magical neighborhood backyard. Almost nothing in her garden was purchased. She is resourceful and always finds ways to garden and create beauty for no cost. One of her favorite pastimes is to get in her giant old blue van and collect leaves each fall. It was a seasonal family affair for her. I was a young gardener and no one showed me, until then, the value of fallen leaves.

I am now just like Lindsey. Each fall, I fill my truck and baby trailer to the brim as many times as I can with other people’s bagged leaves. Where my home is, in the woods of St. Francisville, I get a lot of leaf fall that naturally mulches the beds around my home. In fact, we often get too much leaf fall and have to remove some so that it does not choke out the more tender perennials we have planted around the house. I still collect these in bags though. I can never get enough, there are so many uses for leaves! Here are a few ways to use leaves in your yard, or potentially hoarded from neighborhood streets.

Left: Southern Sugar Maple. Right: Virginia Creeper. Photos by Nikki Krieg.

Free mulch

When in the world did we start buying mulches? Leaves are an excellent natural mulch and the OG mulch solution. Spread as thick of a layer as you like throughout your garden. Once the leaf mulch has been watered well, the leaves lock together and create a lovely strong layer of mulch to help with moisture control and weed suppression.

Fertilizer

Leaves fall for a reason within the framework of the natural world. That free mulch quickly breaks down into rich organic matter that “fertilizes” your soil. Leaves are incredibly nutrient dense, providing all the nutrients needed for a lively and active garden.

Composting

Some people believe that we should work for our home compost to have a certain level of “green matter” (rich in nitrogen) vs. “brown matter” (rich in carbon). Leaves are an excellent source of “brown matter”. I have friends who

mow over their leaves before adding them to their bins to get them to break down quickly. I am a lazy gardener and I just throw my leaves straight in as I find them. Any which way, leaves are one of the best things you could add to support the structure of your compost!

October Plant Spotlight: Ironweed, Vernonia gigantea

Habitat

Leaving your leaves on the ground, or adding found leaves if you do not get them in your garden naturally, is one of the greatest things you can personally do, within your garden, to encourage wildlife habitat. By leaving your leaves, you are

This most special fall blooming perennial wildflower can be found along roadsides, empty lots, moist woods, and coastal prairies. Its deep purple blooms are a dramatic sign that fall has arrived. If you are lucky, you can see it along the roads, dancing in the breeze alongside fellow fall bloomers Swamp Sunflowers (Helianthus angustifolius) and Sugarcane Plumegrass (Saccharum gi). It chooses to grow in wet spots, naturally, yet I have seen it thrive through long drought. She can grow in full sun or part shade. Ironweed is a highly adaptable plant, hence its name. I love this tall perennial toward the back of a perennial garden, especially if there is a fence to help support it. To control height and structure it’s best to cut this plant almost back to the ground by late June. It will grow more compact with lots of blooms come September. If planted in a home garden or small space, it is perhaps best to not let it reseed, as it germinates with extreme vigor.

spend their entire life near where you find them around your property. This benefits insects, but also lizards, frogs, turtles, birds, and small mammals.

Fall color means leaves shift, then fall—

For me, fall is a time of transition, a time for deep breath, for renewal and reflection. It is a time of great relief and a blessing from the cosmos for making it through another Louisiana summer; a time to look forward and prepare for the holidays, a time for reenvisioning. Green fades, previously unseen hues emerge to

Photo by Beth Kleinpeter

Culture

62 A FRENCHMAN, A TURTLE PROCESSOR, AN ORANGE & WATERMELON FARMER,A BARBER, AN OYSTER MAN, A HERMIT: WHO WAS JOHN GUILHOT? // 64 JEREMY DUFRENE'S SWAMP TOUR // 66 I KNOW YOU NOT SCARED OF A TATAILLE // 67 THE ORIGINS OF "UNION, JUSTICE, CONFIDENCE"

LEGENDARY FIGURES

The Hermit of Deer Island

REMEMBERING THE MISSISSIPPI GULF COAST'S SINGING FRENCHMAN, JOHN GUILHOT

By Susan Marquez

It has been decades since John (Jean) Guilhot walked this earth, but folks in Biloxi have not forgotten the singing Frenchman. Some pronounce his name Gee-yo. Others say Gil-heart. But most simply refer to him as the “Hermit of Deer Island.”

To understand the hermit, it’s important to first understand Deer Island. One of several small islands off the coast of Mississippi, historians say that it was occupied and used for hunting as early as 8,000 B.C. Artifacts from four major periods have been found on the island and indicate the largest occupation occurred from about 1220 A.D. to 1550 A.D.

French settlers arrived along the Gulf Coast and Deer Island in 1699 and coexisted with a small tribe of Native Americans, the Capinans, who retired from the Pascagoula River to the island. The 1850 census lists eleven people living there, representing three families and one single man.

As recently as the early twentieth century, around eighteen families inhabited Deer Island. Alvin Baker, 83, who currently resides in Biloxi, was born and raised there. One of five boys, Baker described his childhood as a simple, but happy life. The family grew most of their fruits and vegetables in the once-rich soil. They were almost entirely self-sufficient, thriving on the fish they caught, the game they hunted, and the hogs and cattle they raised.

In 1915, the Deer Island Improvement Company purchased land on the island to create an amusement park. The park had a dance pavilion, row boat rentals, carnival rides, a penny arcade, and daily concerts. “They also built a movie theatre,” said Baker. "A family from Illinois moved down to run the movie projectors. One of the daughters was Pauline Lemien, the seventh and final wife of Jean Guilhot, who met her shortly after arriving on the Gulf Coast in 1920.

“I heard he immigrated to the United States from France and came up through Key West,” said Baker. “He worked at a turtle factory, where they captured and processed turtles for turtle soup and such. He then moved to northern Florida where he worked on an orange plantation, then to Foley, Alabama to work on a watermelon farm. He left his wife and three kids there to move to Biloxi, where he worked as a barber.”

Baker said that when Guilhot moved to Deer Island to make his home with Pauline, he was working in the oyster business. After she died in 1933, he stayed on the island, tending to his oyster reefs. “I remember the hurricane of 1947,” says Baker. “Everyone was sure Guilhot had drowned. I was just six years old, but I remember he walked out of the woods and everyone yelled ‘he’s alive!’”

After the storm, many families left Deer Island. Guilhot’s home was badly damaged. “I know his house burned to the ground at some point,” said Baker. “He ended up building a small hut using pieces of driftwood on the former concrete pad for the amusement park. About that time he began his self-imposed isolation.”

The moniker “Hermit of Deer Island” came from a Biloxi boat designer and builder, Louis Gorenflo, who during the 1950s was capitalizing off the growing tourist market in Biloxi by taking visitors out on fishing trips and schooner rides and educating them on the Gulf Coast shrimp and oyster industries. And sometimes he told them the story of the Hermit of Deer Island. Though he was always scanning the Deer Island coastline for him, Gorenflo couldn’t manage to get a sighting of Guilhot. One day, he poked a stick in the sand on the island’s beach and attached a bag with a newspaper and food for the hermit. He returned again and again for weeks, and each time Guilhot got a little closer. “I think Guilhot was embarrassed to be seen by people because his clothes were tattered and he had long hair and a beard,” said Baker. “But that was what Gorenflo liked about him. It perpetuated the story of a hermit living on the island, which was exciting for the tourists.”

John Guilhot, the "Hermit of Deer Island" was a memorable character along the Mississippi Gulf Coast during the 1950s. Photo courtesy of Errol Bradley.

Baker said it took about six months, but Gorenflo finally established enough trust with Guilhot, regularly providing him with provisions and new clothes, that the hermit began rowing out to actually greet the tour boat. He would entertain the passengers by singing French songs in his resonating baritone, and the passengers would throw coins into his skiff. Tourist shops sold postcards with Guilhot’s scraggly image, which further fueled an exciting fear of the hermit.

When Gorenflo died, Guilhot resumed his relative isolation. “He got a couple of dogs to keep him company,” recalled Baker. “That soon turned into more dogs, and before we knew it, he had up to fifty dogs that ran up and down the beach. Guilhot said they were friendly dogs, but my dad was concerned they would hurt people.”

Guilhot was known to pop in at the Baker home, where he would frequently break into such deafening songs the windows would rattle. “I heard all kinds of stories about Guilhot over the years,” said Errol Bradley, a one-time Biloxi Citizen of the Year. “Things like he was a convicted felon, and that he lived all alone. But then I also heard stories of him rowing his boat to the Coon Street pier and riding the bus into downtown Biloxi to shop. If I was a hermit, that’s the kind of hermit I’d like to be.”

After living on Deer Island for 38 years, Guilhot reluctantly moved onto the mainland when he was no longer able to care for himself. He was taken into the Lamien residence, the home of his step-grandsons, where he spent the last year of his life. The Hermit of Deer Island passed away the next year, in 1959, at the age of 81.

“I went to the Old Biloxi cemetery one day and saw that his headstone was a piece of wood, unmarked really, except for someone had written ‘Hermit of Deer Island,’” said Bradley. It is believed the headstone was washed away by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. As chairman of the culture and heritage committee of the Biloxi Chamber of Commerce, Bradley headed up a 2013 project to replace it with a substantial black granite grave marker, complete with a summary Guilhot’s life story and engraved with his face. He took a crew to Deer Island to gather oyster shells from Guilhot’s island home and crushed them to embed in the concrete of the coping on the base of the marker. “He deserves to be remembered. He was a main attraction on the Coast for many years,” he said. •

WHERE THE HOLIDAYS SHINE

Experience the magic of the season as you stroll through the beautifully illuminated historic Windrush Gardens. Discover a shimmering wonderland where the holidays shine brightly.

$20 per person | Children 3 years old and younger: FREE Get tickets today! DiscoverBurden.com/LaLights

Dispatches from Jeremy Dufrene's Airboat

CONTEMPLATING THE SEX APPEAL OF THE CAJUN LIFESTYLE WITH LANA DEL REY'S (RUMORED) NEW BEAU Story and photos by Lauren Stroh

It’s not hard to see the appeal.

I am in Des Allemands, a quaint Louisiana town whose Cajun French name translates to “The Germans” after its original community of European settlers. I’m at Air-

boat Tours by Arthur, right down the road from Frank’s Lounge, a world-famous bar renowned for its Bloody Marys.

And I am about to embark on a tour of a leased lake called Dufrene Ponds, led by a man who bears the same name, drives

airboats for a living, and keeps alligators named Alice, Boudreaux, and Pierre as pets he feeds raw poultry.

Jeremy Dufrene has made international news over the past month after he was photographed sharing a meal with the American soft-rock crooner Lana Del Rey in London, at Leeds Festival holding hands, and again leaving Karen Elson and Lee Foster’s nuptials during Fashion Week in New York.

The exact nature of the pair’s relationship has since become a source of intense public scrutiny and far-flung speculation, reaching readers of People, Billboard, The Cut, and the Daily Mail through a series of ambiguous headlines—bluntly, NOLA.com asks, “Is Lana Del Rey dating a Louisiana airboat tour guide?”

In photographs, and in person, Dufrene comes across as sincere and unassuming. When he enters the welcome center for the tour, a modest one-room gift shop that vends wares such as decorative alligator heads and back scratch-

ers made from their claws, the attendant remarks that he is unusually quiet. It is 10:30 am midweek and overcast—so much so that our tour has to be delayed over half an hour to accommodate a series of scattered showers and thunderstorms passing over the area. In response, Dufrene remarks that he had a long night, and I joke that we may need to pull over the boat so he can purge himself of whatever he had to drink the evening before, assuming a hangover (this is South Louisiana). But the attendant insists that won’t be necessary—Dufrene doesn’t drink; something else must have kept him away from a good night’s sleep. He says that the pit stop might still be necessary in any case, joking that this will be his very first boat ride.

It's not hard to imagine why Dufrene might have a bad case of nerves. Beyond the sudden media interest, legions of Del Rey’s fans have combed the Internet for information pertaining to him since rumors about their relationship began in late August. In the weeks since, X users have cosplayed as his daughter, fictitiously surprised to learn of her father’s new relationship via the pop culture news circuit (Lana Del Rey herself exposed these posts as a hoax), and his political and moral beliefs have turned into the subject of cultural criticism; memes lifted from his social media accounts have become fodder for a relentless stream of critical posts on Del Rey’s fan subreddits.

Back at the bayou, away from the maelstrom, Arthur Matherne, Jr., the namesake and proprietor of the business, stands in front of the TV to watch the weather report. Once the storm lifts, Dufrene is quick to load us up before more bad weather disrupts our plans. The tour group (which includes three Germans driving across the American South; fitting that they land here, of all places, in Des Allemands) promptly fills the boat and we set off into the marsh via Bayou des Allemands. Right away, I feel physical relief; being out on the water is literally a breath of fresh air—a refuge from the pollution of nearby chemical plants and refineries congesting the towns in this southern stretch of Louisiana. Still, even here, we can’t escape evidence of the industry: signs quickly populate the pond, warning us not to anchor or dredge, giving notice of gas pipelines that run just beneath the water’s surface. Along the way, I learn that the body of water we’re floating in is a leveed-off section of fresh water, home to a medley of species—including swamp lilies and water hyacinths. We get up close and personal with a handful of alligators that live and breed nearby. Dufrene mentions that the low ratio of males to females necessitates flexible dating arrangements; poor Alice must share her boyfriend with the other female alligators who live close enough to her section in the pond, he remarks with a smirk and a nod.

HE SPEEDS, DRIVES ROUGH, AND CUTS EDGES QUICK. HIS DEMEANOR IS INFORMAL, JOKING, AND SOMETIMES SARCASTIC;

IF WE WERE TO DRAFT DEL REY’S ROMANTIC FUTURE WITH DUFRENE VIA THE STEREOTYPICAL MATING SCRIPTS, IT WOULDN’T BE A CHALLENGE TO IMAGINE THEM SETTLED IN A DOUBLE-WIDE TRAILER DOWN THE ROAD IN A COUPLE OF YEARS WITH 2.5 KIDS TO BOOT.

the German woman swamp lilies and a bundle of moss to handle and observe up close before he invites us to pass them both around to the other tourists.

We also spot blue herons, cattle egrets, a great egret, a bald eagle’s nest, and a number of duck blinds, empty in this transition into fall, when waterfowl hunting season begins. Jeremy points out a fallen bald cypress whose branches have become trees and estimates that the process of their regeneration has taken place over the last one hundred years. Spanish moss decorates their branches, and Dufrene handles a bunch, explaining to the tour group that the plant matter is durable enough to stitch up a wound if one of us should become injured on the tour, though he hopes that won’t be necessary. He is a benign flirt—handing me and

NOVEMBER 2, 2024 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM

As we travel deeper into the swamp, dark clouds begin to gather overhead. We are at least thirty minutes away from shore. Jeremy gets a call from back at the welcome center, answer ing, “Captain speaking.” He's gotten word that the storm we’d been avoid ing has finally caught up to us. Light ning strikes straight ahead and on the other side of the marsh, so we begin to make our way back to the launch ahead of schedule; we are seated on what Jeremy astutely calls “a frying pan” and the odds that lichen can mend our impending electrocution are nary.

He speeds, drives rough, and cuts edges quick. His demeanor is informal, joking, and sometimes sarcastic; if we were to draft Del Rey’s romantic future with Dufrene via stereotypical mating scripts, it wouldn’t be a challenge to imagine them settled in a double-wide trailer down the road in a couple of years with 2.5 kids to boot.

We arrive back to shore, dock the airboat, and proceed back into the gift shop to settle up. As I leave, Jeremy Dufrene is tying his boat back up at the launch as the rainstorm begins to get heavy. I sympathize with all that he’s going through, so I choose not to let my curiosity get the best of me and decide not to bring his relationship up. As in all great romances, I try to leave a little bit to the imagination; sometimes the mystery is the very best part. • airboattours.com

The Village of River Ranch Lafayette, LA 70508 RiverRanchInstitute.com

Art by Charissa Owens Art by Charissa Owens

LINGUISTICS

"Tataille" WHAT THE CAJUN WORD TAUGHT ME ABOUT FEAR

By Megan Broussard

When I was little, my mom, dad and I lived on a farm in New Iberia, Louisiana with lots of things that could kill you: wild boars, cottonmouth snakes, and a monster in my closet. Every night, while my parents slept, I—along with my team of Trolls with jewels for belly buttons and dolls that could crawl, cry, and crap so long as they had Duracells— stayed vigilant. There were bumps and scratches from behind my door, I was sure of it. And just before that monster busted out to devour me, I’d run to my dad who’d tell me to wake up my mom, who’d tuck me back into my bed and say sweetly: “Come on now baby, I know ya not scared of a tataille.”

I didn’t know the word “tataille” was French. I didn’t even really know it was a word so much as a sound associated with something bothering you that you didn’t get a good look at, like a bite from something in the grass while you were looking for roly polies or a thing that brushed the

pizza. I learned to keep that word to myself, and so the “tataille” from my childhood was banished to the back porch of my mind where it slept, dormant, only to awaken when at thirty-seven-years-old I decided to finally, once and for all, learn the French my grandparents once spoke. I’d tried off and on for years while in New York City, clinging to the pieces of home I missed. I had my mom mail me my old French textbooks and I even signed up for in-person French classes in Soho, but nothing stuck. It wasn’t until

from advanced to beginners in Débutant 1. We sat comparing the Standard French and Canadian French words we’d learn in class with the Louisiana French ones we’d grown up hearing. Tataille was one, a word that we all described differently—which was tough enough since we weren't allowed to speak English.

Flipping and fumbling through pocket French-English dictionaries to communicate, some said a tataille was mid-size and fuzzy, others said it was tiny with a tail. We all bickered about it having claws and teeth, bulging eyes vs. beady ones and whether or not it had wings. The tatailles in our minds were all the same in spirit, but different in appearance. How could that be?

After immersion, when I could speak English again, I was curious. What did la tataille actually mean? Where did the word come from? Why are we the only ones in the Francophone world that seem to use it? So I asked an expert, Erin Segura, Director of Louisiana French Studies at LSU, to enlighten me.

“The word tataille seems to come from the verb ‘tâter,’ which means ‘to paw’ at something or someone or ‘to grope,’” Segura said. “In French, there's something called a ‘productive diminutive suffix. Examples of this in Standard French are the suffixes ‘ot’ and ‘ouill.’ In Louisiana French, we have ‘aill.’ So an example is the verb ‘tâter ’ with the diminutive suffix ‘aille’.” It literally means ‘to paw at a little bit.’”

Another spelling offered in the Dictionary of Louisiana French is "Ta-Taille.” Segura explained, “This capitalization makes it a proper noun, the way the name of a monster would be referred to, or a witch of sorts, but it's often used to mean a little thing that bothers you, like a bug. All that to say, tataille is flexible in meaning.”

I got to go through French immersion to put those skills into daily, mandatory practice at the Université Sainte-Anne in Nova Scotia that I made real progress, the kind that shakes up the cells in your

It was the scariest thing I’ve ever done, upping and leaving the comforts of daily routine—a new fiancé even—and living five-weeks in a dorm room babbling like

At lunch during my first week, I sat with four other women from Louisiana. It was surreal, to sit and eat tacos and tater tots in the very spot from which our ancestors were separated and deported. Some of these women, my new friends, had kids graduating from college and some of them were bright-eyed college kids themselves. We came from places all around the sole of the boot— Breaux Bridge, Lafayette, Thibodeaux, and Houma. Two of us were in the same class, Intermediaire 1; the others ranged

I think this says a lot about the way we, as a people—the ones with Louisiana-French ancestry—view and overcome fear.

When I made true crime and paranormal TV, I learned that the thing humans are most scared of is the unknown. To truly frighten someone is to let their imagination run around in a dark room. Once you give a monster a name, it loses its power. Once you unmask it, you can see its weaknesses and overcome it.

The words “ta” and “taille” in French literally mean “your” and “size” respectively, something I learned while trying to find a hoodie that fit me at the SainteAnne’s campus bookstore. We all have different things that scare us more than others, certain phobias and anxieties. But Louisiana French gives us a word we can use to fight back.

The next time you run into a monster—something that scares you in life— what if you gave it a different name? What if then, in the light, it was suddenly your size?

Come on now baby, I know ya not scared of a tataille •

The Origins of the Louisiana State Motto

WHAT DID CLAIBORNE ACTUALLY MEAN BY "UNION, JUSTICE, CONFIDENCE"?

By Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

“Oftentimes we take for granted things hwe learned in school, like the state motto or the state flag,” said former Lieutenant Governor and Secretary of State Jay Dardenne in a recent interview. “We don’t think very often about the importance of the origin that led Louisianans many years ago to believe these were important concepts for the state. These three words— Union, Justice, Confidence—they’re very important, conceptual words. But why were they chosen?”

This is the question at the heart of historian Jason Theriot’s recent research, funded by President and CEO of Valentine Chemicals Hugh Caffery. Coming from a line of Louisiana politi cians, Caffery has long held an interest in state political history. Upon realizing the limited knowledge available on the motto’s defin itive origins, Caffery hired Theriot—whose interests as a historian lean towards Gulf Coast culture, energy, and environment—to look into it.

His questions were: “Don’t you think this is important? What do the words ‘Union, Justice, Confidence’ actually mean? Is it possible that we have been misinterpreting this motto for all this time?”

For over two hundred years now, those words—Union, Justice, Confidence—have been synonymous with Louisiana state identity. They are emblazoned on the State Capitol, and they fly upon our flag.

But two hundred years is a long time, and the political poetics of words like these—presented with limited context—invite infinite interpretations. While researching the state’s motto, Theriot found examples of the three words used in various strategic ways to respond to specific key moments in Louisiana history.

. . . chastened by experience, reinvigorated for its course, will move onward in its march . . . prosperous.”

Another article, published in 1934 in the Daily Courier, used the motto’s integrity to repudiate the controversial Governor Huey P. Long, who, "discredited and cartooned throughout the nation as a crawfish feeding himself while his people suffer, is the political exponent of ‘Division, Injustice, and Lack of Confidence.’”

corruption,’ could be used . .. certainly more realistic than the current laughable legend of “Union Justice and Confidence.”

What’s more, just as easily as the repetition and recitation of a phrase, or a prayer, or a motto over time can evoke collective intention and pride, so too can it eventually reduce the effectiveness of its very meaning.

In a survey issued to a dozen or so people of different ages and backgrounds in Shreveport in 1987, every single interviewee admitted that they did not know what Louisiana’s state motto was at all.

As a starting point, Theriot reached back to the earliest known mention of the motto in any official capacity: the original creation of the Louisiana state seal by the state’s first governor, William C.C. Claiborne. Dated 1812, the year Louisiana was officially brought into the Union, Claiborne’s seal features a pelican, wings extended, feeding ten chicks in her nest. Above her, the scales of justice are displayed beneath the word “JUSTICE,” and eighteen stars. Below the nest is the rest of the state motto: “UNION & CONFIDENCE”; and above all of it, the words “STATE OF LOUISIANA”. This seal would become the archetype for much of the state’s official symbolism—most significantly, its flag. Though the design would evolve and change over the next two centuries, the words “Justice,” “Union,” and “Confidence” were almost always featured—eventually becoming standardized in the order “UNION, JUSTICE & CONFIDENCE” in Governor W.W. Heard’s 1912 official description of the seal.

For instance, in 1867, a writer for the Times Picayune rejoiced in the recent abolishment of slavery, saying: “‘Union, justice, confidence,’ once more restored to our distracted land, the one great disturbing element of the past, now removed, our country reunited

Likewise, a 1971 political candidate proclaimed to his constituents, “The state motto is ‘Union, Justice, and Confidence.’ Where is it?”

And then, of course, there were the outspoken critics of Edwin Edwards, one who wrote of him in the Town Talk in 1987, “ … the simpler legend ‘Graft, greed, and

Knowledge of the history of Louisiana’s state seal, and by extension its flag, was expanded as recently as twenty years ago when an eighth-grade student in Houma advocated, before the state legislature, for standardizing the flag’s design to include the historically-accurate three drops of blood. While working on his middle school social studies project, David Joseph Louiviere

Louisiana's very first iteration of the state seal, selected by then-governor, William C. C. Claiborne.

had discovered that flags in active use across the state did not feature the drops at all or featured inconsistent numbers of drops as described in Heard’s 1912 de scription of the seal. In the direct aftermath of the devastation wrought by Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, Louiviere’s plea to the Legislature re-invoked the power of the state symbolism, reminding Louisiana that it was founded upon ideals of the state sacrificing itself for its citizens.

Governor Kathleen Blanco signed the description of the new flag into law on May 25, 2006.

A new official state flag would not actually come to exist until October 2010, after Baton Rouge journalist Glen Duncan dedicated himself to researching the history, law, and tradition surrounding the Louisiana state flag in order to create a new “official” version of it, designed by

disorganized history as a state symbol are compiled in the book A Modern History of the Louisiana Pelican Flag; Or a tale of the surprisingly difficult quest for the ‘official’ state flag

Recognizing the flag and motto’s shared lineage, Theriot turned to Duncan. Surely, in researching the flag, and consequentially the seal, he had come across some reference to the origins of the words featured so prominently on it?

Though Duncan had more insight into the early history of the state symbols “than anyone else,” even he wasn’t aware of the motto’s specific history beyond its origination on Claiborne’s seal.

Next, Theriot approached Dardenne —who, in the capacity of Secretary of

on what the motto stood for, Dardenne also wasn’t sure of the motto’s origins or original intent beyond the fact that it had come from Claiborne. “So, you’ve got elected state officials whose jobs are to know what these things mean, and even they aren’t certain,” said Theriot. “People just haven’t given this origin question a serious thought.”

Finally, Theriot went to the archives. Specifically, he turned to Claiborne— the assumed author of the state motto himself.

A young congressman from Tennessee, Claiborne was a protégé of President Thomas Jefferson, who in 1801 appointed Claiborne as governor and superintendent of the Mississippi Territory. Later,

in 1803 Claiborne would be the one to formally accept the transfer of the Louisiana territory from France on behalf of Jefferson, afterwards acting as governor of the Orleans territory (most of what is today considered Louisiana). In 1812, after Louisiana was officially admitted into the Union, he was elected by white male property owners as the first official governor of the state of Louisiana.

The Louisianans Claiborne governed had been through the ringer—they had been ruled by the French for just under a century, the Spanish for decades, the French again for mere months, and now they were told they were to be American. The state’s inhabitants were diverse—of Native, French, Spanish, Caribbean and African (including enslaved individuals and free people of color)—not to mention the influx of American settlers from surrounding states.

“None of them trusted him,” said Theriot. “He had to gradually build up a relationship with the leaders. He never learned to speak French. How did he even communicate with these people?” His time as governor was marked by racial tensions—heightened in the wake of the Haitian Revolution, then boiled over in the 1811 German Coast Uprising, the largest revolt of the enslaved in the United States—and foreign threats, which would eventually culminate in the War of 1812 and the Battle of New Orleans.

A document Theriot discovered in the Tulane archives, featuring one of the earliest known examples of the Louisiana State Seal (featuring the motto, "Justice, Union & Confidence") in use, from March 1813—only six months after Claiborne annexed it for the first time. Image courtesy of Theriot.

Within this turbulent context, Theriot concludes, “Union, Justice, Confidence” emerges.

Studying Claiborne’s speeches and letters in the six-volume Official Letter Books of W.C.C. Claiborne, 1801–1816, compiled and edited by Dunbar Rowland in 1917, Theriot hoped to find some evidence of Claiborne’s rationale for the motto. Though he found no explicit exposition, he did glean an understanding of Claiborne’s attachment to those terms, and what they meant to him.

“About every third or fourth letter, when he’s talking about political issues, he’s using the words ‘union, justice, confidence,’” said Theriot. “You can pick it up, and it’s not just like for one year. It’s the whole thirteen years.” Of course, such phrases were likely common among political discourse at the time—“I’m sure Jefferson’s using those words,” he said. “You can probably read the Adams papers, same thing.”

But in carefully dissecting the letters of Claiborne, Theriot has deduced an interpretation of the state motto and the ideals that led to its creation.

Union

The first word of the state motto, within the context of Claiborne’s world, cannot be separated from the ideals of the United States as a whole—ideals that Louisianans had not yet wholly embraced, but which were fundamental to Claiborne’s vision for his country, the political project of American leaders of the time.

“In some sense, it’s a modern sales pitch to the people of Louisiana,” said Theriot. “Because they don’t believe in the American democratic system yet. And [in his letters] he’s not even sure that these Creole inhabitants are ready for this form of republicanism. But he’s trying to sell them on it.”

A letter written by Claiborne on January 29, 1811 demonstrates his belief in the American dream of the “Union”:

“I am aware that the minds of many of our Citizens are not entirely reconciled to such a change of Government; but . . . It will place beyond the reach of change our political destinies, and attach forever the Territory of Orleans, in its present extent, to the American Union. A Union which has established and which supports the freedom, the greatness of our Country: A Union on the perpetuity of which depends the safety, the liberty, the prosperity and happiness of ourselves and posterity.”

Justice

According to his writings, Claiborne’s belief in the ideal of justice was drawn directly from that of the still-young United States Constitution, with its pursuit of “justice for all” and the promise of the new government to secure individuals’ rights through the rule of law.

In his very first address to the legislative council and House of Representatives of the Mississippi Territory as governor in 1801, Claiborne established that justice

and due process were at the forefront of his concerns: “the people are entitled to Justice ‘in the most cheap, easy and expeditious manner, promptly & without delay, conformably to the Laws’.”

There is also evidence that the governor was apprehensive about being seen as holding more power than the law afforded him. “He wanted to make sure that he was not perceived as some type of zealot or a dictator,” said Theriot in conversation with Duncan. “He wanted to be fair down the lane, even to the detriment of his own policies or his own views.”

Confidence

Confidence, for Claiborne, seemed to be equated with leadership’s obligation to earn the trust of the governed. Theriot cites multiple examples throughout Claiborne’s life in which he appears to actively seek the approval and acceptance of the people of Louisiana, in which he works to establish their confidence in him as a leader. “Confidence,” deduces Theriot, “means for him instilling confidence in the governed, in the people, that what he is doing and others are doing is the right thing.”

In Claiborne’s inaugural speech as governor of the new state of Louisiana on July 30, 1812, he told his constituents, “If ever a people had cause to repose with confidence in their government, we are that people.”

Almost a decade before, he had written on July 1, 1804 of his and his government’s responsibility to inspire such confidence in the people of Louisiana, “ … charged as I came with the preservation of the peace & safety of Louisiana, I owe it to myself and to my country to use all the means in my power to insure these great objects … let our fellow citizens then repose with confidence on the vigilance of the constituted authorities.”

The work is not done—Theriot has aspirations to consult other current and former politicians about their interpretations of the motto. There are more archives to be paged through, some of them in French (which Theriot does not speak, and therefore cannot easily access). One could theoretically carry the question of “Union, Justice, Confidence” back to the values of America’s founding fathers who so inspired the young Claiborne himself. You could even carry it forward through Louisiana’s complicated history—place it beside the certain contradictory laws and systems sanctioned by the state government, not the least of those being forced enslavement, which did not end until more than fifty years after Claiborne issued his official seal.

And there at the center of Theriot’s investigation is the question: “Is the state motto still relevant today?”

“Louisiana politics has strayed so far from those ideals, some would argue,” said Theriot. “So is there any underlying message here that we should return to the founding principles as laid out by Claiborne and the founders?” •

Crawling Up the Devil's Backbone

A GHOSTLY PILGRIMAGE UP THE OLD NATCHEZ TRACE

Story and photos by Jason Ruffin

The Turning Angel monument in the Natchez City Cemetery.

It was a still, early morning when I shuffled up from the historic Under-The-Hill district in Natchez, Mississippi.

As sometimes happens on a Monday evening, one had turned into two, which had turned into three, and so forth until I found myself listening to stories from an extremely knowledgeable local tour guide and carriage driver. But now, with the rising sun, all the crowds had gone and I was the only soul in sight along the river.

This “small, straggling, and shabby” area, as Mark Twain called it, was once the rowdiest port on the Mississippi River. There was “plenty of drinking, carousing, fisticuffing, and killing there, among the riff-raff of the river, in those days,” he wrote.

For many, it also marked the start of a long, arduous journey home via the Natchez Trace. After some time in town, Kaintucks, or boatmen who floated goods down the Mississippi River from states in the Ohio River Valley, would have to traverse 500 miles of wilderness. The Kaintucks would have to contend with not only the elements but also bands of criminals looking to separate them from their cash. The road developed such a reputation that it came to be known as the Devil’s Backbone.

Today, the trace is a 444-mile scenic drive that follows one of the oldest historical routes in North America. Thousands of years before cutthroats and bandits stalked the trails, the earth here was beaten low by herds of bison making their way to salt licks in Tennessee. Native Americans followed, using the paths for hunting, trade, and war. Eventually, as European settlement encroached on Native land, the area became a frontier—one that in many ways would foreshadow the Old West years later.

“The Land is Full of Ghosts”

Glimpses of all these eras can be found along, or just outside, the Trace today—their memories held in the complex earthen mounds built by Native Americans, the once thriving frontier towns, the overgrown familial cemeteries, the decadent antebellum homes, and dozens of local legends that have survived.

Some of these legends rose to mind as I climbed the hill— soon to begin my own journey up the Trace.

If Under The Hill was half the notorious den of vice Twain said it was, then I wonder how it must’ve felt juxtaposed against Natchez proper, where a grand basilica and antebellum mansions still peer down from the hill above. Before the Civil War, Natchez had the highest number of millionaires per capita in the country. The river city was a prime location for the buying and selling of natural resources, goods, and enslaved laborers.

Natchez was once home to the busiest market of the enslaved in Mississippi and the second largest in the South. The forced labor of the individuals bought and sold there funded and built many of the area’s mansions. When Union soldiers occupied the town in 1863, the 12th Wisconsin Infantry and the 58th United States Colored Infantry, which was made up of freed slaves, tore the market down.

SWEET THINGS TO DO

Dinner & Wine Under the Oaks | Oct. 3

St. Mark’s Catholic Church Fall Festival & Market | Oct. 18-19

Holly Jolly Hope Fest | Oct. 19

Boucherie & Balloon Festival | Oct. 18-20

Music In The Park | Oct. 20

Eat, Drink, & Be Scary | Oct. 23

Monster Truck Nitro Nitro Tour | Oct. 26

City of Gonzales’ Fall Fest | Oct. 27

La Fete des Bayous Festival | Oct. 31-Nov. 3

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The Windsor Ruins in Claiborne County, Mississippi—twenty-three towering Corinthian columns that are the remnants of what was once one of the largest antebellum Greek Revival houses in the South.

The grave of ten-year-old Florence Irene Ford, who died in 1871. The child was deeply afraid of thunderstorms, so after her death, her mother built a stairway and window beside her grave so that she could be with her when the weather was bad.

The day before I left for the Trace, I visited this site, now known as Forks of the Road, and a few others, including Emerald Mound, which is the second largest Native earthen mound of its kind in the U.S. It would’ve still been in use as a ceremonial center when Hernando De Soto first arrived in the area in the 16th century. However, by the time the French returned, they found that the Mississippian culture, of which the Natchez, Chickasaw, Choctaw, and many other tribes had belonged to, had changed. Disease left behind by the Spanish, along with population loss and societal change, caused the use of mounds to decline.

When I arrived, the only other visitor was a small fawn on the other side of the mound. After it disappeared, I retreated from the heat myself and made my way to the city cemetery.

I try to visit one in every city I go to, especially those with Spanish or French history. Maybe it’s the Spanish moss or the obelisks, or the angels perched atop mausoleums and pedestals, but whatever the reason, I always find stories there, local legends unique to the old burial places of the South. Natchez City Cemetery is no exception. There are a number of notable graves here, but two stand out.

The Turning Angel monument was erected in dedication to five young women who lost their lives in a gas explosion at a local drug company in 1908. So the story goes, the statue has been seen turning its head at night to fix its gaze on passing cars. On the evening I visited, it kept its gaze pointed downward, towards the graves of the women killed in the explosion.

A short walk away is a rather normal looking grave, at least until you get up close. It holds the remains of ten-year-old Florence Irene Ford. Before she was taken by yellow fever, Ford was known to be extremely afraid of storms. So, when she passed, her mother had a small glass window placed underground at the head of the casket. Just behind the grave, a set of steps lead down to the window so that the mother could comfort Florence during storms.

“No more haunted, complex terrain in America”

The next morning, armed with a cup of coffee, I set out on the Trace towards the ghost town of Rodney, Mississippi. There are no signs to Rodney and getting there requires a dose of vintage map skills and a stop or two to ask for directions.

Mississippi author Willie Morris has said of the area: “To me there is no more haunted, complex terrain in America than the countryside between Port Gibson, Mississippi, and the river.”

Emerald Mound near Stanton, Mississippi, is the second largest Native earthen mound of its kind in the United States.

Morris was mostly referring to historical and figurative ghosts when he wrote that, but an hour or so in, I was beginning to understand the word choice.

After turning onto what I thought looked more like a driveway than a road, I followed it for what felt like miles. On occasion, the thick underbrush would open up and the road would crisscross another seemingly remote stretch of gravel. “Take a right, then a left; then keep right all the way,” I was told by a worker at The Old Country Store in Lorman. I did just that past pine and kudzu and cemetery and abandoned church. I drove for so long, and without seeing any other vehicles, that when I came to a fork, I (stupidly) decided to stop in the middle of the road to check the offline map.

Not even a minute later, a semi came barreling down the steep road blaring its horn. I jumped on the gas and soon the two of us were locked in a dance going down this wiry country road. While I still wasn’t sure I was going in the right direction, seeing another vehicle was reassuring, even it felt like I’d be run over if I let off the gas for a moment. Eventually, we came to another fork, and the semi turned off one way while I continued to follow the road on the other. A moment later the thicket gave way, and the forest opened up on either side.

Rodney was once one of the busiest towns on the river. Today, not much remains of the old town besides a couple of buildings, two churches, and a cemetery. A few people still live there, but the homes, along with some of the hunting camps high up on stilts, are a bit disorienting sitting next to the ruins of old churches and streets that once housed around 4,000 people. The town began to decline after a change in the course of the river, and eventually yellow fever took what will the townspeople had left to stay in the mid-nineteenth century.

Some of the buildings have slowly disappeared over the years, and the white chapel was nearly completely covered in vines and brush when I visited. The other church, which still has a cannonball stuck in it from a Civil War skirmish, was receiving renovations.

After a moment or two surveying what was left of the town, it was back to the road, using a cemetery and another abandoned church I saw on the way in as landmarks.

As surreal as it feels standing in the ghost town of Rodney, a couple of miles away, the Windsor Ruins are even more bizarre. Today, the only remnants of what was once one of the largest antebellum Greek Revival houses in the state are twenty-three towering Corinthian columns, seemingly picked up from half a world away and dropped in the middle of the Mississippi woods.

During the Civil War, the house, which was built mainly by the enslaved, served as a Union hospital. It survived the war, only to burn down in a fire in 1890, leaving only the columns to delineate the home, like a chalk outline from a crime scene.

Much of the surrounding land is covered in acres and acres of kudzu, so much so that at times it is difficult to imagine there is solid earth beneath all the vines. The only evidence of unchoked life is the occasional longleaf pine rising out of the leaves, mirroring the towering manmade columns in the distance.

After the ruins, I stopped by the Daniell-Freeland (Windsor) family cemetery just down the road, which would’ve been nearly impossible to find were it not listed on Google Maps.

Set off in the woods and built

on top of a Native American mound, the graves of those who used to own the house are slowly being overgrown. A collapsing brick wall surrounding the cemetery no longer keeps the trees and brush out. I didn’t linger long.

Pines, Prairie, & Pirates

I spent that night at Rocky Springs campground, right off of the Trace. Itself an abandoned town, the only thing that’s left standing are a still-in-use church and the accompanying cemetery.

This part of the Trace passes through Mississippi’s Piney Woods and Black Prairie regions, home to Jackson, Tupelo, and a dozen or more eclectic communities in between. It’s also where, according to oral tradition, the Chickasaw settled after separating from the Choctaw. The tribe, then one nation, were led by two brothers, Chiksa' and Chahta.

The migration myth says that the tribe, seeking peace after years of war, left the west, guided by a pole that was given to them by a prophet. When placed in the ground, the pole would point towards the east, until one day, arriving somewhere in the area, the pole wobbled a bit before pointing straight up into the air. Chahta took this as a sign that they’d arrived in their new homeland, while Chiksa' wasn’t fully convinced. So, he and others who had their doubts left and continued east, leading to the formation of the Chickasaw nation.

Some of the oldest Native earthen mounds along the route, the Pharr Mounds, are spread out over a ninety-acre site at milepost 286.7. The eight mounds themselves were constructed near a large village that once sat along this thriving trade route some 2,000 years ago, and remain a sacred place for modern Chickasaw.

Further along the road, in Alabama and Tennessee, markers indicate where the Trail of Tears crossed over the Trace. Between 1830–1850, tens of thousands of Native people crossed over the ancient road after being forcefully relocated from their ancestral homelands.

When I stopped to visit a marker for the Tennessee River Water Route of the Trail, a tall storm cloud was forming on the other side of the river. Those who took this route were forced onto overloaded boats here. Some of the boats were so overcrowded that their hulls began to crack, according to an audio explainer. Sickness would’ve been common onboard. Stories of the poor conditions resulted in many groups later taking land routes. The Trail of Tears passes over the Trace in two more spots further up.

Driving through any part of the Trace can sometimes feel like being sucked into a time capsule—the lack of powerlines, sunken trails, isolated family cemeteries. But the road today is a far cry from the one Native Americans and early settlers knew.

Meriwether Lewis Campground in Hohenwald, Tennessee, towards the end of the Trace, is a stark reminder. The campground and park are home to Lewis’s tomb. While historians don’t unanimously agree on what actually happened to the renowned explorer and governor of the Upper Louisiana territory, we do know that Lewis died from a gunshot wound while staying at an inn on the Trace. Many think it was suicide; others believe something more malevolent occurred on the wild, dangerous Trace of the early nineteenth century.

“Because there was little law enforcement, because there was a lot of money, you know there

Elizabethan Gallery

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weren’t a lot of banks at that time, so people had to carry the gold and silver on them—that encouraged robbers,” said author Tony Turnbow, who grew up along the Trace and has studied its history for over thirty-five years. So brazen were the “land pirates” as they were sometimes called, that there are even accounts of them taking shots at Andrew Jackson’s army as it traveled the road.

According to Turnbow, those who traveled the Trace and couldn’t afford to arm themselves would grow out their fingernails and attempt to gouge out the eyes of anyone who tried to rob them. Some of the early accounts along the road read like something out of the Texas Chainsaw Massacre.

One such story tells of a man who adopted a young Native boy. While the two were out in public, someone made a comment about the boy and before long “they’re slashing each other with their knives and they’re trying to disembowel each other,” Turnbow said. Another account tells of a man who was taken prisoner by the Natchez. They were readying to throw him into a boiling pot of oil, but the man picked up one of their children and threw the young child into the pot, making his escape in the confusion.

“You realize how brutal it was. People who woke up in the morning never knew whether everybody in the family would still be there,” Turnbow said.

The Trace is also the home of America’s first documented serial killers. During the late 18th century, cousins Micajah “Big” Harpe and Wiley “Little” Harpe terrorized the frontier up and down the road. Historians generally agree that they were responsible for the murders of at least thirty-nine men, women, and children, but it’s

possible that they took the lives of over fifty victims, some of them mere infants. Their victims were often found dismembered and mutilated. Their reign of terror finally ended after they were taken in by the Stegall family. During the night, the older Harpe killed another guest before slitting the throat of the family’s infant son. The mother walked in while it was happening, quickly becoming the next victim. When the husband returned, he found the entire cabin ablaze and quickly formed a posse to track down the murderers.

During the chase, Big Harpe was shot, injured, and captured. When asked why he’d killed so

many people, he said “because I hate the whole human race.” The husband, Moses Stegall, then proceeded to cut Harpe’s head from his body while he was still alive. It was put on a spike in Webster County, Kentucky. The crossroads is still known as Harpe’s Head. The younger Harpe escaped South, but he too was eventually caught, his head put on a spike elsewhere on the Trace.

After a night at Meriwether Lewis Campground, it was time for the final leg of the Trace, a short hour or so drive north to just outside Nashville, Tennessee.

This portion of the road, even with some clouds overheard, was bright and winding as it fell and

34TH

rose and clung to the side of hills. I stopped and pulled over at a viewpoint right after Double Arch Bridge, one of the last stops on the journey. After three days of camping on the ground, I was ready for an actual bed. In the days of the frontier, this entire route would have taken a little over a month if you were lucky. If you weren’t, then you may not have made it out at all. I stayed a bit, watching the bridge and pondering how something so serene could have ever been so violent and deadly. •

Plan your journey on the Trace at nps.gov/natr.

OCTOBER 12-13, 2024 DOWNTOWN NEW IBERIA

SATURDAY, OCT 12

Cajun Creole Fest ........ 11:00 am – 3:00 pm Youth Gumbo Cookoff Serving @ 12:00 pm

SATURDAY LIVE MUSIC

Chubby Carrier and The Bayou Swamp Band ................................. 10:00 am – 12:30 pm The Bad Boys ................. 1:00 pm – 4:00 pm Cajun Company ............. 4:30 pm – 7:00 pm

SATURDAY CA C’EST BON

GUMBO SUNDAY, OCT 13

Gumbo Cookoff with 75+ Teams Serving @ 11:00 am

SUNDAY LIVE MUSIC

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PERSPECTIVES: IMAGES OF OUR STATE

RÊVERIE

ARTIST ROZ LECOMPTE PAINTS THE GAME OF HOPE

By Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Playing Roz LeCompte’s “le petit jeu,” her Louisiana-inspired “Rêverie” oracle deck, one might select the “bouquet” card, upon which she paints a vivid marriage of gardenia and camellia. The “maison” card depicts her own cypress cabin against an abstract backdrop and a flush of azaleas; the “fouet” a photograph of her son dressed as a vilain for Faquetaique Mardi Gras.

Composed with a mixed media approach merging pieces of LeCompte’s paintings and accumulated photographs in a whimsical display, the “Rêverie” deck is based on a centuries-old deck called the “Game of Hope.”

With its popularity often ascribed to renowned late-eighteenth-century Parisian cartomancer Marie-Anne Adelaide Lenormand (also known as Madame Lenormand), the ancient oracle

LeCompte’s version plays on the unique, lushly lurid setting of South Louisiana, drawing on both the mysterious and the mundane to reflect her lived experience in a land and community in which she has not always felt she belonged. Her cards tell a quiet love story, exploring LeCompte’s unironic tenderness for her homeland—a besotted admiration of the marshes, the wildlife, and the rich, earthy history of the place.

“As I was growing up, I couldn’t wait to leave here, and my mother was like, ‘I don’t think it’s this place. I think it’s you.’ Wherever you go, there you are,” LeCompte said. “It’s so true. There’s beauty everywhere, but everyone’s born where they are for a reason.”

Occasionally, the cards gesture—with a knowing wink—to the incongruities and the absurd facts of Louisiana life. There is the “mice” card depicting a possum, which LeCompte refers to as, at its heart, “a huge rat.” There are no mountains here, so LeCompte uses a photograph of the levee for that iteration of Lenormand’s card.

The “Rêverie” deck emerged from turbulent grief—the forced transformation after LeCompte’s marriage of eleven years came to an end. In the thick of it late last year, she found herself asking if she should quit art, pick up a secure day job, and “be miserable” for the rest of her life..

in surprising and multi-faceted ways.

LeCompte, a self-proclaimed exCatholic, has found her new ritual, and in it, a conversion of sorts.

“The synchronicities are abundant,” she said. “It is reassuring. It feels good when whatever is going on inside is mirrored on the outside as well. It feels like a feather in your path. You’re going in the right direction.”

In between her spiritually exhilarating career highs, LeCompte worked on her oracle deck. The past year has been a time of mourning; besides the dissolution of her marriage, one of her best friends, musician Dege Legg, passed away in March. In addition to his prolific musical career, Legg had painted roughly 200 pieces to accompany a new album that was released posthumously.

LeCompte created a tribute for Legg at the ACA’s Reaux Family Vault exhibition space, with all of his music, artwork and legacy on display through April and May. In her fresh grief, surrounded by the memories of her friend, she spent hours each day creating the cards. She thinks, perhaps, the echo of Legg’s presence infused the cards “with some special ju-ju.”

The “Rêverie” deck was released this summer, with a daily journal to accompany it coming in 2025. Amid the steady throb of loss and metamorphosis in different spheres of her life, LeCompte has realized the transcendent power of symbolism that emerges in those cards—and in her art.

card game features thirty-six cards illustrated with various symbols, such as the rider, tree, tower, child, and scythe. Each card is infused with meaning drawn from those symbols: the “stars” card represents hope, the “coffin” card refers to loss.

The deck acts as a divination tool. Traditionally, a player dwells on a question or intention, then selects two cards. The first card acts as the main subject, while the second card modifies the first, ostensibly providing the player with insight into the situation. The relationships between the cards result in new meanings to be interpreted by the player each pull.

“They always seem to mimic whatever is going on inside you,” she said of the cards. “Sometimes there’s no answers, per se … sometimes it’s just a confirmation of what you’re already feeling.”

Contemplating this question, she drew two cards from the oracle deck of another South Louisiana artist, J.F. Guidry—the “moon” and the “key.” The moon symbolizes intuition, creativity, the subconscious, and dreams; the key, unlocking, fate, discovery, resolution. She soon purchased her own deck and drew the same two cards, in the reverse order. LeCompte interpreted the message as: “Your subconscious is the key.” She stuck with art.

Within months, LeCompte executed a major project, an immersive installation called Femme Unmuted created in collaboration with musician/poet/ healer Andrea Villien through Basin Arts’ Projectspace Residency program. The project featured interactive sculpture-making, poetry, dance, and a gallery of visual artwork, exploring the act of empowering women to reclaim their voices.

Then, in September, LeCompte is showcasing a solo exhibition, RÊVERIE , at the Acadiana Center for the Arts (which will be on exhibit through October 26). Composed of thirty-one original artworks—including mixed media paintings, objects, and sculpture—the exhibition delves into the nuances of Southern identity

“It’s a comforting thing for humans, whether we realize it or not. To see ourselves reflected in our world, and to find a deeper meaning,” she mused. And she, herself, is not immune to the pull of that mirror; LeCompte finds herself relentlessly compelled to recreate some symbols over and over again, such as the snake—though she doesn’t know precisely why. It’s one of her most striking cards in the deck: a sinuous, twisting serpent rendered against a backdrop of overlapping, eerie spirals.

LeCompte finds what has often been branded a Biblical symbol of evil to be instead beautiful and ancient, often so full of color and life she can’t help but paint it. To her, snakes are as majestic as butterflies.

“Which is what is happening to me right now, completely transforming” LeCompte said. “I think people should just keep going, even when it’s scary, and you can’t see the future, and it’s unnerving. There can be joy and exhilaration in that, if you surrender to the process.” •

Roz LeCompte: RÊVERIE will be on exhibition at the Acadiana Center for the Arts in Lafayette through October 26, 2024. See more of her work, and her RÊVERIE Oracle Deck at rozlecompte.com.

“Serpent/Snake” card from artist Roz LeCompte’s “Rêverie” oracle deck. When pulled, it symbolizes desire, wisdom, craving, betrayal, and sexuality. Courtesy of Roz LeCompte.