Country Roads Magazine Hearth & Home Issue

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Contents

DECEMBER 2020

Events

Features

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26 29 32

HOLIDAY HAPPENIN’S

Lifting spirits with bonfires, tree lightings, and live (or livestreamed) musical performances

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VO LU M E 37 // I SS U E 1 2

REFLECTIONS

by James Fox-Smith

NEWS & NOTEWORTHIES

Publisher

A MOST INDOOR YEAR Through a pandemic, three hurricanes, and a new baby, the family seat still stands.

by Lucie Monk Carter

THE PRALINE LADIES The history of the Black women who gave New Orleans its signature sweet

by Kirstie Myvett

TINY HOMES, BIG COMMUNITY Karen McCoy’s endeavor towards minimalist, intentional living at Burleigh Plantation

by Jonathan Olivier

On the Cover

TAKE ME HOME, COUNTRY ROADS

James Fox-Smith

Associate Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

Managing Editor

Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Arts & Entertainment Editor

Alexandra Kennon

Creative Director

Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Lucie Monk Carter, Ed Cullen, Beth D’Addono, Paul Kieu, Kirstie Myvett, Jonathan Olivier, Chris Turner-Neal, Jason Vowell

Cover Artist

Alexandra Kennon

Advertising

Cover Photo by Alexandra Kennon

We’ve made it to the end of this road, my friends. What a year it has been. At Country Roads, the past twelve months have brought change after change after change. But they have also brought a lot of reflection.

Amidst new work-from-home environments, staff members working from hundreds of miles away, and the most unpredictable events calendar in this publication’s history, we’ve found so much value in the opportunity—the necessity, even, perhaps—to share a bit more of ourselves as we react to the turbulence around us, right beside all of you. Doing this through the lens of a “Country Roads story”—a framework of discovery, of exploration, and of homage to our Gulf Coast region—has been a revealing exercise in understanding our hearth, our home. In our story on Sugar Farms (page 36), our editorial team reunites for the first time in weeks at John and Joanna Haynes’ farm to try out their new taproom, Istrouma Brewery. Against a rural River Parishes backdrop, with food and brews crafted with local ingredients, we felt connected to our place in the concrete way we’ve craved all year long.

We felt at home.

Cuisine

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RECIPE

Traditional Pralines

by Kirstie Myvett

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42

WHAT TO READ IN 2021

SUGAR FARMS A visit to the art farm— where craft brews and longhorns thrive

by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

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NOTES ON FILÉ The Choctaw spice makes your gumbo real nice

by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

41

Culture Local titles for everyone on your list

by Chris Turner-Neal

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VISIONS OF CHRISTMASES PAST Quiet almostwinter evenings spur contemplative holiday memories.

by Ed Cullen

RECIPE

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Filé Gumbo with Chicken & Andouille

by Frank Brigsten D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

Escapes

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ALONG THE ANDOUILLE TRAIL

An all-too-delicious road

trip celebrating three hundred years of Germans—and their sausage—in Louisiana

by Beth D’Addono

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PERSPECTIVES Bridging the Mississippi: Spans Across the Father of Waters

by Alexandra Kennon

SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

Sales Team

Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons

Custom Content Coordinator

Lauren Heffker

Advertising Coordinator

Baylee Zeringue

President

Dorcas Woods Brown

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upcoming events • January 29 - 31: Clarksdale Film & Music Festival • April 11: Mr. Tater’s Memorial Birthday Bash - Bad Apple Blues Club • April 15 -18: Juke Joint Festival & Related Events - Main Day April 17 • April 18: Cat Head Mini Blues Fest

IMAGE OF ALLIGATOR RECORDS ARTIST CHRISTONE “KINGFISH” INGRAM BY RORY DOYLE

• May 8: Clarksdale Caravan Music Fest • May 29: Red’s Old-Timers Blues Fest • May 29 - 31: Goat Fest VII

LIVE BLUES • LOCAL TOURS • HISTORY MARKERS • CANOE EXPEDITIONS • MUSEUMS

In-person and virtual music calendars plus lodging info at VisitClarksdale.com. #VisitMSResponsibly

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Reflections FROM THE PUBLISHER

*Caution: this article contains instances of naval-gazing and maudlin selfreflection. Sentimental readers should exercise caution.

A

utumn afternoon.

C o r n f l ow e r - b l u e sky. Falling leaves and dust motes drift through luminous shafts of light falling between trees. By mid-afternoon the shadows are lengthening and the air’s so still that the sound of a twig cracked back in the woods carries a hundred yards or more. By 5 pm night’s descending curtain is turning down the lights—from gold through purple to blue velvet—and the air cracks with the promise, finally, of a cold night to come. At last it’s time for a fire.

When you live in a hot climate there’s something tremendously satisfying about the arrival of cool weather. Out in the country where we live, you can almost hear the woods breathe a sigh of relief when summer finally relaxes its grip. As nighttime temperatures dip into the fifties, the trees seem to stand a little straighter, shaking off their summer burden to let the leaves come tumbling

down. The first bonfire of the fall is always huge. Our year-round efforts to beat back the ever-advancing forest that threatens to swallow our house result in the construction of an enormous burn pile, shortly followed by a bonfire visible from space. This year, with us home far more and with the fall-out from various hurricanes having added considerably to its size, by early October our burn pile was giving the Great Pyramid of Cheops a run for its money. So on a still Saturday night we invited some friends around, dragged lawn chairs and a bottle of whiskey down to the clearing where it stood and, with the help of some judiciously applied diesel, set the thing ablaze. It didn’t take much. Within moments the whole pile was transformed to a white-hot pillar of flame that pushed us to the very edge of the clearing and sent a river of sparks up to join the stars.

By morning all that remained of our burn pile was a gray, smoking pile of ash surrounded by a blackened ring of scorched earth. And an empty whiskey bottle. In the pantheon of property maintenance tasks there aren’t many more satisfying chores than that.

If fire was Netflix for cavemen then I come by my affinity honestly. My dad, who once did one of those genetic

ancestry tests and found out that his DNA is eight percent Neanderthal, always adored a fire. When our family moved from suburban England to small-town Australia in the 1970s, the combination of wide-open spaces littered with highly combustible fuel constituted a kind of personal nirvana for him.

When I was a kid hardly a Saturday night seemed to go by without Dad assembling a teetering pile of tinder-dry eucalyptus to burn. Nowadays, in the aftermath of the massively destructive bushfires that periodically blacken great swathes of southeastern Australia’s bushland, the authorities tend to take a dim view of pyromaniac Englishmen clutching boxes of matches and heading for the treeline. For good reason the laws governing outdoor fires have gotten very strict, and Dad hasn’t had a chance to indulge his enthusiasm for a good, big bonfire for decades. I wish he could join us for one of ours but he’s an old man now, and with COVID, that’s not

From Our Family to Yours

Happy Holidays from the

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happening anytime soon.

The exchange of one season for another is always welcome but in this strange year, with so much upheaval and the country experiencing critical shortages of the word “unprecedented,” there’s something about the observance of simple rituals, like lighting the first bonfire of fall, that feel more comforting than ever. Or maybe I’m just getting sentimental: when the kids were small we’d make a big event of the first bonfire, bundling them up and bringing out the marshmallows and hot dogs, which they’d perch on the end of long, bamboo poles and try to roast, but mostly incinerate, before falling asleep in our laps. Mathilde is a senior so this is presumably the last fall she’ll spend living at home. She’s loved a fire ever since she was a little girl. I like to think she’ll miss bonfire night once she’s gone.

According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, which has been releasing annual winter weather predictions since George Washington was president, this will be a warm winter. Then again, given the way we’re changing the climate perhaps they’ll all be warmer now.

Perhaps that calls for adjusting our fall tradition: instead of lighting fall’s first bonfire in October we’ll end up saving it until closer to Thanksgiving, and light it when Mathilde comes home.

James Fox-Smith, publisher —james@countryroadsmag.com

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Noteworthy

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N E W S , T I M E LY F A C T S , A N D O T H E R

Cover image courtesy of Random House Children’s Books.

This is Your Time

disease”.

Written as a letter to young people, This Is Your Time proclaims: “I have not witnessed hatred or bigotry when I’ve looked into your young eyes. Regardless of what you looked like or where you came from, I saw some of my six-year-old self in you.

You did not care about the color of each other’s skin, and I have loved seeing that, because I saw hope.”

On November 10, the day the book was published, Bridges announced that her mother, Lucille Bridges, had died at the age of eighty-six. She wrote: “Our nation lost a Mother of the Civil Rights Movement today. And I lost my mom.”

After setting her daughter up to break down the barriers she herself had faced, Lucille Bridges has long advocated the importance of sharing one’s experiences.

In a 2016 interview produced by the Spring Branch Independent School District in Houston, Texas she spoke on the value she placed on getting an education and how badly she wanted her children to have a better chance at it than she did. “And I want other people to know how hard it was,” she said. “I would love for people to just listen to my story so they can know how hard it was for my kids to go to school.”

WITH THE RISE OF A NEW CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT, RUBY BRIDGES TURNS TO AMERICA’S YOUTH

I

n July of 2011, just eight months after the fiftieth anniversary of Ruby Bridges’ first day at New Orleans’ William Franz Public School, she stood in front of the famous Norman Rockwell painting “The Problem We All Live With,” beside President Barack Obama, who told her: “I think it’s fair to say that if it hadn’t been for you guys, I wouldn’t be here.”

The first Black child to attend an allwhite elementary school in the South, Bridges—who today speaks about the experience all over the country—recalls that day as shrouded by the profound innocence of childhood. At six years old, she had no idea that what she was doing would change the world.

In November of 2020, now sixty years past the day she walked into William Franz accompanied by U.S. marshals, Bridges released an appeal to the children of America in the form of her new book This Is Your Time, published by Delacorte Books for Young Readers. Rockwell’s painting, depicting Bridges at age six walking bravely with her schoolbooks against a backdrop of hatred and 8

violence, graces the cover.

In a year marked by its new civil rights movement, Bridges’ story of bravery and disruption in the face of inequality remains as pertinent as ever. In This Is Your Time, she retells it for a new generation— one whose world, though changed, remains shaped by the same forces of inequality and unrest that placed her in the history books sixty years ago.

In interviews spanning her career as an activist, one message Bridges has proclaimed again and again is the belief she has in children. Reflecting on her own innocence in the face of so much hatred and drawing from her experiences in classrooms all across America, she has famously said that “racism is a grown-up

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CURIOSITIES

LO O K C LO S E R

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Testifying to the obstacles to integration and to equality, as well as to the pure hatred and terror experienced throughout the process, Ruby Bridges has spent her life making sure that we don’t forget. But she has also spent her life spreading a message of love, of unity, and of hope; a message that she leaves with her readers, this next generation of

change-makers: “Don’t be afraid. This is your time in history. Keep your eyes on the prize. And at all costs, stay united.”

—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

This Is Your Time can be purchased at penguinerandomhouse.com.

The Louisiana Film Channel A STREAMING SERVICE DEVOTED SOLELY TO FILMS FROM THE BAYOU STATE

O

n a chilly Thursday night in mid-November, I drove out to the Scott home of Country Roads Managing Editor Jordan LaHaye Fontenot. We had gathered on her cozy couch, sugary snacks in hand, to watch Intention, a documentary feature being screened at this year’s virtual Southern Screen Festival. Produced and directed by a pair of Lafayette filmmakers and narrated by eleven Acadiana women, the film beautifully captures the slices of their lives in frame after frame of stunning, mesmerizing footage. We’d been eagerly waiting to see Intention since it premiered at the New Orleans French Film Festival in February, and it was well worth the wait. But, what if we didn’t have to? What if films made in or about the Bayou State could all be found in one place, readily accessible by the public? Well, thanks to Dr. Lucas Fry, thousands of Louisianamade titles will soon be made available to anyone and everyone, from the comfort of their own living room.

Fry, president of the Louisiana Film Channel, has a lifetime of experience in broadcast media and has spent the last three years curating titles and designing the new platform, which debuted on Thanksgiving Day. The channel’s catalog encompasses a wide variety of content, from short and feature-length films and documentaries, to television shows, podcasts, and even music videos. It’s all fair game, as long as the title has some kind of “Louisiana thread”. Viewers will find that some of those threads are looser than others.

"It's either you produced it and you live in Louisiana, you acted in it and you're from Louisiana, you funded it and you're from Louisiana, or you're the third spear chucker from the left and you’re from Louisiana," said a chuckling Fry. Aside from fulfilling a niche in the

streaming market, Fry envisions the channel as a way to connect younger filmmakers and new talent with industry professionals, generating even more content made in the Boot. Anyone can submit a work to be considered for distribution on the platform.

“We want to provide a platform for Louisiana filmmakers to be able to recoup, or at least make some money on their work, if not introduce them to someone that may want to invest in them and their next project,” said Fry, who is also general manager of the WLFTTV station in Baton Rouge. “I want filmmakers to know they now have a place where they can get seen. So if you have a movie, whether it's four minutes long or two hours long, if you need distribution, submit it.”

The service already has more than 2,200 titles in its streaming library, and will continually add new selections each week. And come 2021, the channel will begin acquiring scripts and developing original content, so screenwriting hopefuls can still set their sights on landing in an LA writer’s room—only, this one is a lot closer to home than the offices of Netflix or Hulu.

As of press time, a week before its official launch, the service already had about three thousand subscribers— the majority of which do not reside in Louisiana, according to Fry. Though, it should come as no surprise that Louisiana-made media attracts international audiences. Users can opt for a free or paid subscription, and the cost is $5 each month or $50 for a year. The Louisiana Film Channel app is available on Apple and Android devices, as well as online.

—Lauren Heffker louisianafilmchannel.com.

On the Side of Angels

FOUR NONPROFIT ORGANIZATIONS BRING A NEW YOUTH CENTER TO BATON ROUGE

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here is a group of guardian angels looking out for the kids and young adults of Baton Rouge, and they’ve been handed the keys to a big old red brick church on Government Street.

Their goal of converting this old church into a multi-faceted youth center isn’t exactly conventional, but neither is the community they intend to benefit with their creative—and ambitious—plans for it.

The project is the fruit of a collaboration between four nonprofits: Front Yard Bikes, the Big Buddy Program, Humanities Amped, and Line4Line; appropriately, they call themselves the “Angel Coalition”.

Though each organization brings something uniquely important to the new youth center, the overarching goal is unified: “If we invest in our community’s greatest asset—our youth—we will see huge social and economic returns on our investment.” And the planned investment is not a small one. The Angel Coalition still needs $550K to pay off the note on the former church and to complete building renovations. “So that

challenge lies ahead,” explained Anna West, Executive Director of Humanities Amped. “We’re hoping that some true believers will step in with the donors who have gotten us this far up the path and help us get the job finished.”

The coalition is not only asking for donations, but for ideas and help from the community. Skilled workers, input, and even a name for the upcoming center are all still needed.

“We each respect the work already being done by each partner, and immediately recognized how this project would be bigger and more impactful than we could ever be as individual agencies,” said Gaylynne Mack, Executive Director of Big Buddy in Baton Rouge.

The mission is for the building to be filled out with contributions from the four organizations, each providing an outlet for personal, as well as professional, development. The Front Yard Bikes Mid City Bike Shop, a community-owned shop providing sales, repairs, and classes, will offer youth professional development courses and certification classes, while employing young people. Big Buddy will

contribute skill development workshops, further workforce experiences, and support for young folks as they obtain industry-recognized certifications that have the potential to lead to well-paid employment. Humanities Amped plans to include an after-school studio with peer-supported tutoring and healing circles, spoken word poetry open mics, civic engagement projects and conferences, and a wide array of training for educators, youth, and peer leaders.

Line4Line will complete the center with a Barber & Beauty Shop, a full-service salon offering not only haircuts, but hands-on training and employment opportunities. A community reading room will also provide access to books and literary support, along with creative after school programs focused on teaching marketable technical art and craft skills.

“Our vision is to ensure that Baton Rouge youth have access to a vibrant and inviting space,” Mack expressed, “And a network of opportunities through which youth can experience joy, purpose, belonging, and the chance to imagine and contribute to a better world.”

Photo courtesy of the Angel Coalition.

If you’d like to contribute in the form of donations, work, ideas, or name suggestions, visit any of the four organizations’ Facebook pages.

You can donate through Cash App ($AngelsCoalition), any of the organizations’ websites, or through the 225 Gives Campaign, which can result in your donation being doubled or even tripled.

—Alexandra Kennon frontyardbikes.com bigbuddyprogram.org humanitiesamped.com line4linebr.org

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Visit St. Landry Parish

Delicious adventures in Cajun Country!

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Events

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‘TIS

THE

TOWN

SEASON

FOR

PARADES, AND

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DECEMBER, 2020

H O T C O C O A , C A N DY C A N E S , T W I N K LY L I G H T S , S M A L L FESTIVE FA-LA-LAS WITH

act • Avoyelles Commission of Tourism

THOSE WE

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Main Street Market Downtown Marksville Thursdays, 3pm-6pm Main Street Market Farmer’s Market 6802 Hwy 107, Marksville Every Saturday, 8am-noon Da & Papa’s Farmer’s Market & Event Center Avoyelles Courthouse Lighting Downtown Marksville December 3, 2020 318.240.3495 Live Drive-Thru Nativity CenterPoint Pentecostal Church December 10-12, 2020 (6:30-8:30) 318.253.8145 Bottomless Cup of Hospitality.

8592 Hwy 1 Mansura, LA 800.833.4195 travelavoyelles.com

DISCOVER MORE Mandeville will be all aglow with white lights again this year, and it’s far from the only town embracing the spirit of the season. From holiday lights, to bonfires, to fireworks, there are bountiful displays throughout Louisiana and Mississippi at which you and the family can marvel. Photo by Joanie Johnston.

UNTIL DEC

12th

FUN FUNDRAISERS ARTVENT! Online

From December 1–12, the Arts Council of Northeast Louisiana will be drawing for prizes to be given away to several lucky winners. Prizes range from a bayou staycation weekend stay at Bayou LongBeard AirBnb to a dinner party for six at Parish Restaurant with a private tour and tasting at Flying Tiger Brewery. Even after winning a daily prize, you will still be eligible for the Grand Prize drawing that includes a seven-night condo stay at Perdido Key, Amanda Johnson art, and two Andrea May Hinton travel mugs. Purchase your tickets at bontempstix.com. k

UNTIL

DEC 19

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HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS IN THE COUNTRY Covington, Louisiana

Historic small town settings have a knack for looking particularly picturesque at Christmastime. And during December Covington rolls out

an especially warm welcome, serving up live music, mimosas, delectable nibbles from area restaurants, and special deals at shops throughout the walkable downtown area. Park for free in any of the public “oxlots” and enjoy the sights, the sounds, and the shopping throughout the holiday. Most shops open 9 am–5pm Monday through Saturday, with some open Sundays. covla.com. k

UNTIL

DEC 20th

ART MARKET FINE AND FUNCTIONAL Hammond, Louisiana

The Fine and Functional exhibition returns to Hammond Regional Arts Center just in time for the holiday season. This unique, handmade art experience offers wonderful pieces by artists in the surrounding parishes as well as many locally-made in Hammond and Ponchatoula, and some by national artists. Take advantage of the opportunity to purchase unique crafts from pottery, to jewelry, to wood works, and holiday ornaments to fill out your Christmas list. hammondarts.org. k

UNTIL DEC

23rd

ART MARKET 100 ARTWORKS UNDER $100 Denham Springs, Louisiana

Arts Livingston brings a plethora of local artwork, just in time for the holidays.

Choose from one hundred works of art, none priced at more than one hundred dollars. The book Preserving the Culture of Livingston Parish will also be available for purchase, meaning this show will include excellent gift options for art, history, and literature lovers alike. artslivingston.org. k

UNTIL

DEC 30th

HOLIDAY CHEER ZOOLIGHTS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Generations of Capital City families have built a holiday tradition around a visit to BREC’s Baton Rouge Zoo to see ZooLights. This year the zoo steps up with another mile-long trail around the grounds, featuring more than fifty illuminated display sculptures of animals and traditional holiday displays; larger-than-life displays of flamingos, giraffes, lions, tigers, gorillas, and // D E C 2 0

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Events

Beginning December 1

more; and a range of festive family activities all month long, including Ornament Crafting (November 28, December 1819), Candy Canes with Safari Santa or Peppermints with Penny (December 4–5), and Art Gone Wild (December 11–12).

Many high-wattage, computer-controlled displays are animated to add extra pizazz.

5:30 pm–8 pm nightly. $5 adults; $4 seniors; $3 ages 2–12. Closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. brzoo.org. k

UNTIL

DEC 30th

HISTORIC TOURS JEWELED CHRISTMAS TOURS Natchez, Mississippi

The grand and unique historic home of Natchez, The Towers, has decked its halls for the season, and invites all to marvel at the splendor of the majestically-restored home. $25. For times, tickets, and more information, bontempstix.com. k

UNTIL DEC

31st

toward crafting have been dabbling during quarantine, so you know the professional artists and crafters have been quite busy. The results of their toiling with wire, canvas, leather, and so much more will be on display at the Acadiana Center for the Arts, and will run through December. There will be more than fifty works, ranging from ceramics to textile art and far beyond, and most of it will be available for you to purchase and take home, if you so choose. The Louisiana Crafts Guild is the co-sponsor of the show, and watercolorist Sarah Parker will receive special tribute for being one of the artists to organize the inaugural Open Studio Tour in Acadiana in 1971. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

UNTIL DEC

31st

HOLIDAY CHEER VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS AT RIP VAN WINKLE GARDENS New Iberia, Louisiana

ART TOUR OPEN STUDIO TOUR: QUARANTINE 2020 Lafayette, Louisiana

Even those of us who aren’t predisposed

The character Rip Van Winkle was beloved by the children in his village for telling them stories and giving them toys. Sound like anyone we know? What better way to celebrate the season than

MUSIC ON

DECEMBER 1 2 TH 2 0 2 0

Holiday gift-giving is always sweeter when it’s local. Mandeville’s “Get Wrapped Up in Mandeville” initiative puts the focus on local Northshore businesses, featuring countless special deals and shopping events.

Image courtesy of louisiananorthshore.com.

THE PERFECT STOCKING STUFFER

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to enjoy a Victorian Christmas at the Joseph Jefferson Home at Rip Van Winkle Gardens. The twenty-five acre paradise will twinkle with Christmas cheer and the Jefferson Home, decorated for the holidays, will be open for tours from 9 am–4 pm. (337) 359-8525 or ripvanwinklegardens.com. k

UNTIL

JAN 1st

GIFT SHOPPING GET WRAPPED UP IN MANDEVILLE Mandeville, Louisiana

From Black Friday through the new year, Mandeville is embracing the holiday spirit of supporting local businesses with special holiday deals, promotions, events, and more. Most shops are open from 10 am–5 pm. louisiananorthshore.com. k

UNTIL

JAN 2nd

HOLIDAY CHEER CANDY CANE LANE Calhoun, Louisiana

For the fourth year, the Hanson family in Calhoun invite all to drive through the wonderland of over one million Christmas lights installed on their fifty-two acres of private property— an immersive drive-thru Christmas experience designed to instill all of the excitement and magic of childhood in visitors of every age. 6 pm–10 pm. $20 cash per vehicle; $40 per commercial vehicle. candycanelane.net. k

UNTIL

JAN 2nd

HOLIDAY SPIRIT(S) MIRACLE POP-UP BARS Statewide

Christmas is a-comin’ and it’s a-comin’ big. Spare no tinsel and spare no spirit for the return of the beloved Christmas pop-up bars Miracle and the tiki-themed Sippin’ Santa this holiday season, coming to locations in New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and Lafayette. Get the details at miraclepopup.com. k

UNTIL JAN

3rd

HOLIDAY CHEER ICE SKATING ON THE RIVER Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Bundle up and get out on the ice this holiday season! The Raising Cane’s River Center is offering ice skating on a winter wonderland-themed rink.

Slipping and sliding is a possibility, but inventive winter recreation is guaranteed. Admission includes seventy-five minutes of skating. By minute seventy-six, you’ll be confident enough to pull out some moves from Cutting Edge or Mighty Ducks 2. $12– $14. Times vary daily. (225) 389-3030. raisingcanesrivercenter.com. k

UNTIL JAN

6th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS IN NATCHITOCHES Natchitoches, Louisiana

The famous Christmas festivities in Natchitoches mean the holiday spirit is in full swing, when over 300,000 holiday lights flicker on every evening, but that’s not the only reason to visit Natchitoches this season. For locations, prices, and other details on this massive Christmas celebration, visit natchitocheschristmas. com. This year, due to concerns for COVID-19, armbands will be pre-sold only online, and a limited amount will be sold for each Saturday. Armbands ($10) are required to enter the Riverbank area on Saturdays, and Front Street will be closed to vehicular traffic—though armbands aren’t required to enter shops and restaurants. Masks and social distancing will be highly encouraged. k

UNTIL JAN

6th

HOLIDAY CHEER LOUISIANA HOLIDAY TRAIL OF LIGHTS North Louisiana

A unique treasure of North Louisiana, the Trail is a string of eight cities that families and friends can explore during the holidays. Travel between the cities is convenient, with each city only an hour’s drive from the next: ShreveportBossier, Minden, Monroe-West Monroe, Natchitoches, and Alexandria/Pineville.

Families can experience parades, fireworks shows, holiday exhibits, shopping excursions, and entertainment in any of the eight cities along the Trail. holidaytrailoflights.com. k

UNTIL JAN

31st

FUN FUNDRAISERS TREES OF LIGHT VIRTUAL FUNDRAISER Online

The Hospice of Baton Rouge lights up the holiday season annually in the form of their Trees of Light fundraiser. This year, they’re taking their tree virtual, offering the opportunity to purchase lights on it to honor loved ones and support the important mission of the Hospice of Baton during the holiday season. The interactive, online Memorial Lights display will be on the hospice’s website, and the funds will go directly to the hospice’s Patient Care Fund, which contributes to funding compassionate and quality hospice care to individuals regardless of financial resources. Proceeds will also support patient-related and community outreach programs such as Palliative Care and Camp Conquer, a bereavement camp and grief support group for children. hospicebr.org/giving/trees-of-light to purchase Memorial Lights or donate. k // D E C 2 0

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Events

Beginning December 1 - December 4 DEC 1st - DEC 18th

In a normal year, like pelicans blown way off course, thousands of Louisianans descend on the Ernest Morial Convention Center, drawn by the vision of carving graceful arcs into the ice skating rink at the center of NOLA Christmasfest’s festivities. In 2020, of course, everyone’s got to get creative, including Santa’s elves. In lieu of a Christmas cluster, they are sending a sampling of NOLA Christmasfest’s Craft and Activity Stage straight to participants’ homes, for free. Programming includes Christmas crafts, holiday baking and decorating, dance classes, book readings from Christmas characters, and more. Visit nolachristmasfest.com for a complete schedule. k

of the necessities and special treats for a beautiful night in. Top the evening off with guided virtual tours of beautifullydecorated homes and special tutorials from some of the best hostesses around on how to create the perfect Advent wreath, set a beautiful holiday table, craft favorite holiday menus, plus gift wrapping 101.

Only one hundred boxes will be available, sold for $100 each. On Friday, the annual Christmas at Coteau luncheons will be re-imagined at local favorite Ruffino’s on the River. Saturday, the shopping continues, and kids will enjoy a special Cookies and Cocoa virtual children’s event, featuring boxes from the North Pole packed with cookies and icing, aprons and chef hats, cocoa, and a special virtual reading from Mrs. Claus. Two hundred Cookies and Cocoa boxes will be available for $50 each. Tickets are available at sshcoteau.org. k

DEC 1st - DEC 31st

DEC 3rd

HOLIDAY CHEER NOLA CHRISTMASFEST Online

HOLIDAY TOURS HOLIDAY CANDLELIGHT TOURS Natchez, Mississippi

Imagine the magic of filling the Towers with the flickers of candlelight. This reservation-only tour promises an intimate evening of sipping champagne and other light refreshments against the backdrop of holiday opulence. 7 pm. $40. bontempstix.com. k

DEC 2nd

LIVE MUSIC MILK CARTON KIDS Lafayette, Louisiana

Americana, neo-traditional folk duo The Milk Carton Kids have been nominated for Grammies no fewer than three times, and are now finding themselves on a music-starved stage in Acadiana. See them live at the James Devin Moncus Theatre. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $55. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

DEC 2nd - DEC 6th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS AT COTEAU Grand Coteau, Louisiana

Grand Coteau’s Academy of the Sacred Heart’s annual shopping, dining, and holiday event will be hosted off-site and virtually this year. Shop for home and specialty gifts, apparel, toys, and more through the private Facebook Christmas at Coteau Shopping Group. On Thursday, enjoy a virtual Very Merry Christmas Party, featuring special Very Merry boxes to enjoy at home, filled with all 14

D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

MUSIC HISTORY NO TEARS SUITE: LIVE FROM NEW ORLEANS Online

The Oxford American is teaming up with the National Park Service for a stunning virtual concert celebrating the interconnectedness of civil rights and jazz music, streamed free for the public on Facebook. The No Tears Suite studio concert will feature composer/ pianist Christopher Parker, lyricist/vocalist Kelley Hurt, percussionist Brian Blade, bassist Roland Guerin, tenor saxophonist Bobby LaVell, trumpeter Marc Franklin, and alto/baritone saxophonist Chad Fowler.

7:30 pm. k

DEC 3rd - DEC 6th

THEATRE MADELINE’S CHRISTMAS, THE MUSICAL Covington, Louisiana

Playmakers Theater of Covington is entering the world of Madeline, the little French girl who lived in an old house in Paris that was covered in vines, right in time for Christmas. The family-friendly musical is sure to instill holiday spirit and cheer for all ages. Based on the book

by Ludwig Bemelmans, with story and lyrics by Jennifer Kirkeby and music by Shirley Mier, this production will be directed by Jennifer Patterson. Masks are required, and temperature will be taken at the door. 7 pm December 3–4 and 2 pm December 5–6 at the Playmakers Inc. Community Theater. $15; $10 for children ages 3–17. playmakersinc.com. k

DEC 3rd - DEC 15th

HOLIDAY CRAFTS CHRISTMAS DOOR HANGER PAINT PARTY Denham Springs, Louisiana

Create a Christmas gift for yourself or a friend with artist/instructor Shelly Frederick at the Arts Council of Livingston Parish for a Christmas-themed Door Hanger Paint Party. No experience is necessary, and all supplies are included. $35 class fee. Dates are as follows: Thursday, December 3, 6 pm–8 pm; Sunday, December 6, 2 pm–4 pm; Tuesday, December 8, 6 pm–8 pm; Tuesday, December 15, 6 pm–8 pm. Registration required at artslivingston.org. k

DEC 4th

GIFT SHOPPING LSU MOA HOLIDAY TRUNK SHOW Baton Rouge, Louisiana

On the first floor of the Shaw Center, the LSU Museum of Art Store is packed with local art, handmade goods, and other potential presents to inspire creativity and warmth. And once again for the holiday season, all will be discounted twenty percent (excluding George Rodrigue items). Shop while sipping and snacking on refreshments, and don’t forget to have the store gift wrap your items for you free of charge.

Masks required. This year, they’re offering phone orders and curbside pickup for safe, convenient shopping—just email LeAnn Russo at lrusso@lsu.edu.

4 pm–8 pm. k

DEC 4

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HOLIDAY CHEER LIGHTING OF THE VILLAGE Opelousas, Louisiana

Lovable costumed characters, a petting zoo, choirs, and the arrival of Santa in Le Vieux Village—a collection of historic buildings dating from the 1700s to the early twentieth century. With arts and crafts, Christmas specialties, and decorative gifts for sale. 5 pm–8 pm. cajuntravel.com. k

DEC

4th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS AT TERRABELLA Covington, Louisiana

Live, local holiday tunes, food trucks slinging tasty treats, Christmas crafts, and a special appearance by Mr. Claus himself in Covington’s TerraBella Village. Bring any old coats, scarves, gloves, hats, and other winter wear for the Coat Drive for the homeless. Free, $10 for pictures with Santa. Christmas tree lighting at 6 pm. 6 pm–8:30 pm.

(985) 871-7171. k

DEC

4th

GIFT SHOPPING FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The artists and craftsfolk of Baton Rouge have been busy creating, and are ready to share their artwork, pottery, jewelry, glassworks, and other handcrafted treats on this Friday evening, when the Baton Rouge Arts Market will be open downtown for their holiday Festival of Lights. Mask-clad local artists will convene at a safe distance from patrons and each other in an open-air market set up in North Boulevard Town Square under white tents. Word is that Santa will appear via fire truck. 4:30 pm–7 pm. artsbr.org/ batonrougeartsmarket. k

DEC

4th

- DEC

WHIMSICAL & FANTASTICAL FINDS FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON.

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS UNDER THE STARS Slidell, Louisiana

Every year, folks in Slidell come together in Griffith Park to celebrate Christmas Under the Stars, a festival of live music, holiday décor every which way you look, a Parade of Trees, storytelling, visits with Mr. and Mrs. Claus, and more. While some activities have been adjusted or reduced this year, the 2020 holiday celebration extends from four days to an entire month of weekends. The miniature village and train display is always a hit. Masks are required. 6 pm–9 pm. (985) 646-4375. myslidell.com. k

DEC

4th

- DEC

Bella Notte • Glitterville • Mme.Mink Hazy Mae • Powder U.K. • Dana Gibson L.A. Trading Company • June St. George

411 Franklin Street, Natchez, MS 39120 601.653.0667 | info@olivinaboutique.com

6th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS IN THE COUNTRY St. Francisville, Louisiana

From shopping small, to photos with Santa, to children’s choirs, to cookies and cocoa and twinkling lights, St. Francisville will be all aglow with holiday spirit this weekend. stfrancisvillefestivals.com. k

DEC

4th

- DEC

6th

GIFT SHOPPING CHRISTMAS EXTRAVAGANZA ARTS & CRAFTS EXPO Covington, Louisiana

Truly putting the “extra” in “extravaganza” is the largest arts and crafts expo in the South. Row upon row of artisans and craftspeople will be selling their finest and most unique creations, so come early to get through your holiday shopping (or personal shopping!) all at one sprawling stop. $5 for adults, free for kids under thirteen. 9 am–5 pm. (985) 966-7863 or steinhauerproductions@yahoo.com or steinhauerproductions.com. k

Merry Christmas from your friends at UMB // D E C 2 0

15

Events

Beginning December 4 - December 5

DEC 4th - DEC 13th

THEATRE A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS SPECTACULAR Mandeville, Louisiana

‘Tis the season to be jolly at 30 by Ninety’s second annual A Very Merry Christmas Spectacular, a holiday extravaganza featuring singing, dancing, comedy, and more by local performers of all ages. Directed by Arianne Poole, the show will be performed at 7 pm on Friday and Saturday, with an additional 2:30 pm matinée on Saturday, and another on Sunday. $25; $23 for seniors; $20 for students; $16 for children younger than eleven. Tickets are extremely limited due to socially spaced seating requirements, and every guest will receive a temperature check.

30byninety.com. k

DEC

4

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- DEC

THEATRE THE DEATH & LIFE OF LARRY BENSEN

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New Iberia, Louisiana

A family mourns a lost son, until one day a stranger knocks on their door

with his name. The Iberia Performing Arts League brings Reginald Rose’s The Death & Life of Larry Bensen to the stage this December. 7:30 pm Thursday–Saturday; 2 pm Sunday. $10. ipaltheater.com. k

DEC

4th - DEC 16th

LIVE MUSIC BRSO HOLIDAY BRASS PERFORMANCES Baton Rouge, Louisiana

This month, get into the spirit with four Holiday Brass performances presented by the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra.

The first is to be held on December 4 at 7:30 pm at Hemingbough’s amphitheater.

Then, join BRSO at Zachary’s Whimsical Alley December 5 at 7 pm. On December 16, guests will experience St. Joseph’s Cathedral’s famous cathedral organ, played by David Summers along with brass, percussion, and harp. Because of the event’s popularity, BRSO is holding two performances. The first begins at 6:30 pm, and the second at 8:30 pm. The 6:30 pm performance will also be livestreamed.

For in-person performances, masks are required. $30. brso.org. k

MASK NOW so we can

Christmas Under the Stars in Slidell’s Griffith Park promises live holiday music, festive deecor, a miniature villiage and train, and light displays everywhere you look under the backdrop of a crisp winter night.

Image courtesy of louisiananorthshore.com.

DEC

4th - DEC 18th

LIVE MUSIC A SOULFUL NATCHEZ CHRISTMAS Natchez, Mississippi

A fixture of the Natchez music scene, Alvin Shelby has been involved in musical performance and education for over thirtyfive years and has performed worldwide from Italy, Canada, Africa, the UK, and France, to various cities in the United States. Join him at Stanton Guest House

for an evening of uplifting Christmas songs: some you know, and some you may have never heard of before. 6 pm–7:30 pm. $26 includes wine and entertainment. bontempstix.com. k

DEC

4th - DEC 23rd

HOLIDAY CHEER NOËL ACADIEN AU VILLAGE Lafayette, Louisiana

LARC’s Acadian Village will host its annual Christmas festival fundraiser

‘Tis the season for parties and celebrations.

With the holidays upon us, let’s work together so we can get back to the life we love in Louisiana. Wear a mask now to protect yourself, your family and neighbors—so we can party later!

01MK7441 09/20

Learn more about ways to protect yourself at bcbsla.com/covid19

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to benefit persons with intellectual and developmental disabilities. Noël Acadien au Village will feature half a million lights, themed Acadian home porches, lighted holiday displays, live entertainment, carnival rides, local cuisine, photos with Santa, holiday shopping, and more. Be sure to visit the Gingerbread House and Christmas Carolers. 5:30 pm–9 pm (weather permitting). 200 Greenleaf Drive. $10 at the gate. Children ages 2 and younger, as well as active military, are free. acadianvillage.org. k

DEC

4

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- DEC

HOLIDAY CHEER HOLIDAY OF LIGHTS

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Mandeville, Louisiana

Load up your crew and drive through this year’s reimagining of Mandeville’s Holiday of Lights, where you can take in the holiday lights, decorations, and entertainment from the comfort of your vehicle. 5 pm–8:30 pm. Free.

(985) 867-9490. k

DEC

5

Madisonville Christmas, Santa and Mrs. Claus will ride through town to Madisonville Park for pictures in the new gazebo, along with entertainment by local talent, caroling, and a Christmas movie in the park.

Refreshments will be served and available for purchase. Free. 2:30 pm–7:30 pm. (985) 845-9824. k

DEC

5th

GIFT SHOPPING HILLIARD JINGLE BELL MARKET Lafayette, Louisiana

A first-ever artful shopping event from the Hilliard, bringing options for local art and other goodies to your holiday gift list this year. Face masks and distancing required. 10 am– 5 pm. hillliardmuseum.org. k

DEC

5

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HOLIDAY CHEER DECK THE RAILS AT COVINGTON TRAILHEAD Covington, Louisiana

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HOLIDAY CHEER A MERRY MADISONVILLE CHRISTMAS Madisonville, Louisiana

For the Twelfth Annual Merry

Bring a lawn chair or blanket and your mask (and reindeer antlers, too) for Christmas entertainment, decorations, treats, and of course Santa Claus at the Covington Trailhead. Free. 4 pm–7 pm. (985) 892-1873. k

DEC

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS IN THE VILLAGE Zachary, Louisiana

Gourmet food trucks, arts and crafts, live entertainment, a petting zoo, and of course Santa Claus himself will make an appearance. It’s Zachary’s annual Christmas in the Village, lighting up hearts and the Historic District with synchronized Christmas light displays, tours of holly-decked historic homes, and more. 6 pm–9 pm in the Historic District. cityofzachary.org. k

DEC

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER YOUR SANTA BREAKFAST Covington, Louisiana

Covington’s Youth Service Bureau is set to host its third annual Your Santa Breakfast, including a piping hot breakfast, crafts, train rides for the kiddos, and a special Christmas movie screening. Plus, Santa will ride his sleigh into Covington for the evening to take photos and present requrests. Due to restrictions related to COVID-19, seating will be available for fifteen fifteen-minute intervals from 8:00 am–11:30 am. $20.

(985) 893-2570. k

DEC

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER OLDE TOWNE SLIDELL CHRISTMAS PARADE Slidell, Louisiana

Kids from ages four to ninety-four are called to say hello to Santa himself and the rest of the community at the old-fashioned Christmas parade. Featuring decorated golf carts, holiday costumes, and Santa and Mrs. Claus, the parade begins in front of Slidell City Hall and continues to Griffith Park for the annual Christmas tree lighting and Christmas Under the Stars. Masks and social distancing enforced. Free. 4:30 pm. myslidell.com. k

DEC

5th

GOOD EATS WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP GUMBO COOKOFF New Iberia, Louisiana

Can anyone’s gumbo be better than ya mama’s? A few upstarts in Iberia Parish may think so at this annual World Championship Gumbo Cookoff—gone virtual this year with a special streamed live cooking demo from the “Wizard of Roux” Chef Amy Sins. If you focus hard enough (or even follow along!), you might even be able to smell it through your Wifi.

Tickets to the screening are available at the World Championship Gumbo Cookoff Facebook page for $35. 2 pm. k

Cypr ess Table Sale 10% to 50% Off All IN S tock Tables.

s e e o u r w e b s i t e fo r w h a t ’ s i n s to ck. s ta t e w i d e d e l i v e ry ava i l a b l e .

Handcrafted cypress furniture // D E C 2 0

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Events

DEC

GIFT SHOPPING RIVER OAKS SQUARE ARTS CENTER PORCH SALE

Beginning December 5 DEC

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HOLIDAY CHEER NATCHEZ CHRISTMAS SPIRIT AT CHOCTAW HALL & SUNNYSIDE Natchez, Mississippi

Celebrate the holidays, Southern-style, with a fun day of festive events. Starting at 3 pm, tour gorgeous Choctaw Hall and stay for a sumptuous and luxurious threecourse meal in their fine dinning room at 5 pm. Then, at 6:30 pm rock the night away over at Sunnyside B&B with an Elvis tribute show starring Nick Perkins. $128.50 for entire package; $102.50 for tour and dinner; $76.50 for dinner alone.

Tickets at bontempstix.com. k

DEC

5

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STEPPIN’ OUT WHERE ARE YOU CHRISTMAS? Monroe, Louisiana

On their fifty-first anniversary, the Twin City Ballet brings a colorful production of Where Are You Christmas? It all kicks off that morning from 9 am–11 am at the Monroe Civic Center, where guests can take a stroll through Whoville to meet the Grump and other characters from TCB’s

production. Make your own reindeer food, write a letter to Santa in the Post Office, and make crafts throughout the City. Last stop? A matinée performance in the Civic Center Theatre at 1 pm. In Act 1, a man’s stone cold heart turns from Ho-Hum to Hallelujah and in Act II, a beautifully choreographed work

by Leaia Alsup celebrates all the gifts of Christmastime. Gala performance at 7:30 pm. $15 entry into Whoville; $25 for performances. twincityballet.org. k

DEC

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER A JANE AUSTEN CHRISTMAS Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Experience a Regency period holiday at Audubon State Historic Site— reminiscing on the years in which Jane Austen wrote. During tours of a candlelit Oakley House, each room will interpret the last days of Spanish West Florida and social life at the time. Visitors may brush up on social etiquette at a tea or enjoy wassail and chestnuts by the fire; and later, enjoy a period dance as 1810-style Christmas music fills the air.

10 am–4 pm. (225) 635-3739. k

Alexandria, Louisiana

The much-anticipated annual Christmas Porch Sale returns to the porch at River Oaks Square Arts Center, featuring visual artists and craftsmen from all over Louisiana, in addition to exclusive works by the Louisiana Crafts Guild. Free.

9 am–3 pm. riveroaksartscenter.com. k

DEC

5th

STEPPIN’ OUT A JOYFUL NOISE UNTO THE LORD Covington, Louisiana

Covington’s Dancescape Studio returns with its annual holiday tradition in the spirit of the late Rosemerry Fuhrmann Hanian’s choreography—A Joyful Noise Unto the Lord. First performed in the original chapel building of St. Scholastica Academy in 1966, this original Christmas program conceived by Hanian has, for decades, been performed by hundreds of talented young men and women. The one-time only performance will take place at 6 pm in Fuhrmann Auditorium. Tickets are available for $10 at the door and at Dancescape Studio. dancescapestudio.com. k

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Shop, Dine, & Discover this Holiday Season D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

DEC

5th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS FIREWORKS Monroe, Louisiana

Monroe-West Monroe ushers in the Christmas season with a sky of lights. holidaytrailoflights.com. k

DEC

5th

GIFT SHOPPING COVINGTON HOLIDAY ART MARKET Covington, Louisiana

#PlaquemineLockStateHistoricSite

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The friendly folks on the Northshore always embrace local art and artists, and what better time for that than the holidays? St. Tammany Art Association, in partnership with the City of Covington, presents the Covington Art Market, a juried market of visual arts and crafts held ten times per year on first Saturday of the month, and this December brings a holiday gift-giving rendition. From woodworking to pottery and far beyond, there’s sure to be a locallycrafted treasure for anyone on your list.

Free. 10 am–2 pm. sttammany.art. k

DEC

5th - DEC 6th

CAROLS BATON ROUGE CONCERT BAND CHRISTMAS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Baton Rouge Concert Band has been

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LEARN MORE AT VISITIBERVILLE.COM

busy practicing favorite Christmas songs, with plans to perform in the Gonzales/ Dutchtown area on the afternoon of December 5, and again at St. Joseph’s Cathedral in downtown Baton Rouge at 3 pm on Sunday, December 6. Keep an eye on the band’s Facebook and website as details are confirmed. The events will be free and open to the public. k

DEC

5th - DEC 6th

HOLIDAY CHEER TEDDY BEAR TEA Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Santa is flying his sleigh into Baton Rouge for the holiday season, and invites you and your kiddos to join him for a festive English tea service. Eye Wander Photography is teaming up with Red Cake Events to capture the memory with peek-a-boo photos of Jolly St. Nick with the kids, and Mrs. Claus along with Red Stick Reads will delight them with holiday storytelling and a teddy bear keepsake. Rebecca Todaro will be strumming angelic melodies on the harp, and mimosas for parents will be plentiful. $65, $10 more for bottomless mimosas (though one is included with the ticket price for grownups), infants are free. A cash bar will also be available.

Masks required when entering and not at table. Seatings are at 11:30 am and 2 pm Saturday and Sunday, at the Eye Wander Studio at 7964 Goodwood Blvd. Pre-sold tickets are required and can be purchased at bontempstix.com. k

DEC

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for a reading of Snow White and a craft workshop. 10 am–11:30 am. $35; $25 for members. Ages five and older.

December 12: Petits Penseurs—Foster deeper thinking in growing minds with a children’s French philosophical workshop, themed around the question: What is love? 1:30 pm–3:30 pm at the NOLA headquarters. $10; $5 for members. af-neworleans.org. k

DEC

5th - DEC 20th

HOLIDAY CHEER OPEN WAGON RIDES THROUGH THE LIGHTS West Monroe, Louisiana

Landry Vineyards is once again offering up its wagon to usher Christmas spirits young and old through the festive lights in the Monroe-West Monroe region.

Beginning at 5 pm every Friday and Saturday at Alley Park. $5. monroe-westmonroe.org. k

DEC

5th - DEC 31st

ART EXHIBITIONS A 2020 PERSPECTIVE New Orleans, Louisiana

Natchez-born, New Orleans photorealist painter William Smith, Jr. presents A 2020 Perspective—a collection of works mapping the topography of the mouth of the Mississippi with the help of drone photography. Exhibition opens with a socially-distanced artist reception from 4 pm–7 pm. gallery600julia.com. k

DEC

5th - JAN 30th

PARLEZ VOUS LE FESTIVAL DES ALLIANCES FRANÇAISES DE LOUISIANE

ART EXHIBITIONS DEGAS PASTEL SOCIETY 18TH BIENNIAL NATIONAL EXHIBITION

Statewide

Covington, Louisiana

Louisiana boasts the most Francophone population in the entire United States, and this holiday season, the state’s two chapters of Alliance Française are coming together to host several initiatives and events to celebrate the rich cultural diversity of our little Francophone world.

Events will be held in person (safely) in both Lafayette and New Orleans, as well as online!

December 5: Book Swamp—Purchase used French books and swap with friends at the NOLA headquarters. 1 pm–4 pm.

Free.

December 10: Book Club—Join in an online discussion of the book La Vraise Vie by Adeline Dieudonné. 1 pm–3 pm.

Free.

December 12: Open House de Noël— Meet the AFNO team and learn about its upcoming course and events calendar at the Alliances Françaises of New Orleans headquarters. 3 pm–5 pm. Free.

December 12: Boîte á histoires—Bring the little ones to the NOLA headquarters

Join the Degas Pastel Society for its eighteenth Biennial National exhibition, featuring works submitted by artists across the country and selected by juror Lyn Asselta, who is recognized internationally for her work in pastels.

The eighty chosen works of art will be displayed in the St. Tammany Art Association’s Art House through the end of January. degaspastelsociety.org. k

DEC

5713 Superior Drive, Suite B-1 Baton Rouge, Louisiana 70816

6th

HOLIDAY CHEER HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE AT THE WEST BATON ROUGE MUSEUM Port Allen, Louisiana

Live performances by the WBR Museum’s own Blues After School kids and a winter concert by West Baton Rouge Oasis Jazz will set the tone for the West Baton Rouge Museum’s annual Holiday Open House. Papa Nöel will be available for photos, bracelets and other crafts will be made, stories will be // D E C 2 0

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Events

Beginning December 6 - December 12 told, and a “Find the Elves” scavenger hunt will incite fun holiday competition.

Masks required, and social distancing protocols followed. Free. 2 pm–4 pm. westbatonrougemuseum.com. k

DEC

6th

HOLIDAY CHEER A RURAL LIFE CHRISTMAS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

One of the capital city’s best-loved holiday traditions, LSU’s Rural Life Museum’s old-fashioned Louisiana Christmas celebration conjures up a century and a half of reminiscences on the grounds of the acclaimed museum.

Candle-lit historic buildings decorated with freshly cut greenery serve as an atmospheric backdrop for costumed re-enactors recreating the Christmas festivities of the nineteenth century.

Around them, distinguished artisans perform living history demonstrations.

Seasonal activities traditional to South Louisiana, such as blacksmithing, dollmaking, candle-dipping, and rosarymaking, make this ghost of Christmas Past all the more evocative. Bring your gift list: lots of handmade things will

be available for sale. The day’s festivities will conclude with a procession to a traditional Louisiana bonfire to await the appearance of Papa Noël. 8 am–6 pm. $10; children 10 and younger free. (225) 765–2437 or lsu.edu/rurallife. k

DEC

6th

LIVE MUSIC HELEN GILLET IN CONCERT FOR MENDING THE SKY Online

Acclaimed New Orleans cellist, composer, and improviser Helen Gillet— Gambit‘s 2014 pick for Big Easy Best Female Performer—is bringing her surrealist-archaeologist approach to synthesizing sounds and textures to accompany NOMA’s new exhibition Mending the Sky. Weaving together a soundscape of cello, drum machine, sounds in nature, loop pedal, poetry, and storytelling, she will explore the vibrations of sonic disturbance: the tipping points where swollen rivers of human tension and natural imbalances flood the banks of an unsustainable society. Across a series of three solo performances, Gillet responds to

Joe Stedman 601.431.2286

Ricky Warren 601.597.4724

Angela Brixey 601.334.9162

Jim Smith 601.870.8330

LSU’s Rural Life Museum’s annual Rural Life Christmas event promises plenty of old-fashioned holiday spirit, from bonfires to an appearance from Papa Noël with his possum, as tradition dictates (okay, maybe the possum isn’t part of the tradition). Image courtesy of the LSU AgCenter.

quarantine, friction, and trauma in a search for homeostasis. Each performance will take place within the exhibition galleries for Mending the Sky and will stream for free across NOMA’s social media channels. 6 pm. noma.org. k

Sue Stedman 601.431.7653

Pat Porter 601.807.2322

Liz James 601.597.7873

Donna Ball 601.807.1700

D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

HOLIDAY CHEER CARTER HOUSE CHRISTMAS OPEN HOUSE Springfield, Louisiana

This Christmas, the Historic Carter House opens its doors and invites guests

Betsy Iles 601.597.2509

Nancy Durkin 601.807.9617

Tis the Season.

Meet Santa's Little Helpers.

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DEC 6th - DEC 13th

Marsha Colson 601.807.5007

to enjoy a special holiday program.

Carter House is the oldest (and only) plantation still standing in Livingston Parish, and its caretakers maintain the elegant house and tree-covered grounds as both an educational slice of yesteryear and classic event space. The Historic Carter House Society will be sponsoring open houses in December, with tours giving highlights of the history of the house and its previous residents. The home will be decorated for the season, and Santa himself is scheduled to appear. carterplantationcdd.com. k

DEC

10th

HOLIDAY CHEER OLD FASHIONED CHRISTMAS Alexandria, Louisiana

Children laughing, sipping on hot chocolate, and snacking on cookies—you’ll find these heartwarming sights at Kent Plantation House this evening. There will be plenty of crafts for everyone to make and take, and the hosts have it on good authority that they will have a visitor in a dashing red suit! 5 pm–7 pm. Free. (318) 487-5998 or kenthouse.org/events. k

DEC 10 - DEC 12 th

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HOLIDAY CHEER HOME FOR CHRISTMAS Natchez, Mississippi

Join Gabrielle Richardson Henning and Lynn Beach Smith as they belt out some of your favorite tunes, duet style—with pianist Julian Jones keeping time in the background. 6 pm. $30, includes wine and entertainment. bontempstix.com. k

DEC 11

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CAROLING CANDELIGHT CAROLING AT THE COVINGTON TRAILHEAD Covington, Louisiana

Spend a magical Friday evening caroling with family and friends at the Trailhead, where local musicians and singing groups will lead holiday favorites. Lawn chairs encouraged. Masking and social distancing expected. Free. 7 pm. covla.com. k

Sunday with Christmas on the River at Lutcher Recreational Park. Enjoy live entertainment, great food, crafts, Santa’s Very Merry Forest, carnival rides, and more fun for the entire family. Each night of the event will also include a bonfire lighting. festivalofthebonfires.org. k

LIVE OAK LANDSCAPES

DEC 11th - DEC 13th HOLIDAY CHEER HOLIDAY HOME TOURS Online

Embrace this seasonal opportunity to tour—virtually—six stunning New Orleans homes with halls fully decked for the occasion. Join Preservation Resource Center Executive Director Danielle Del Sol as she steps inside each exquisite house, filled with art collections, historic architectural details, and masterful interior design. With the homeowners as Danielle’s guide, these exclusive video tours will showcase the incredible diversity of New Orleans’ historic neighborhoods and architecture. $40. The Patron Party will take place virtually on December 11 from 7 pm–8 pm and will include a scrumptious threecourse meal with wine from Brennan’s Restaurant and special appearances by some of the homeowners featured in the video series. Patron packages start at $250. (504) 581-7032 or prcno.org. k

DEC

169 Homochitto St Natchez, MS 39120 (601) 445-8203

5064 Hwy 84 West Vidalia, LA 71373 (318) 336-5307

liveoaklandscapesms.com

12th

HOLIDAY CHEER CAJUN CHRISTMAS AT BIG BRANCH Lacombe, Louisiana

All the way from the North Pole to the Southeast Louisiana National Wildlife Refuges Visitor Center, Santa and Mrs. Claus are traveling to spread some holiday cheer. Story time, cookies, and hot cocoa will abound. 9 am–4 pm. (985) 882-2025 or southeastlouisianarefuges@fws.gov. fws.gov/refuge. k

DEC

12th

FUN RUN CAJUN COUNTRY RUN Lafayette, Louisiana

DEC

11th - DEC 13th

HOLIDAY CHEER FESTIVAL OF THE BONFIRES AND CHRISTMAS ON THE RIVER Lutcher, Louisiana

The little town of Lutcher has made a tradition of its own, celebrating its Festival of the Bonfires on the second weekend of December each year. Call it Christmas lights Cajun-style, it’s a prelude to the Christmas Eve bonfires later in the month. The sparks and holiday cheer ignite Friday afternoon at 2 pm, with the festival continuing all day Saturday and

Things are heating up for Acadiana’s oldest half marathon. The Cajun Country Half Marathon, 10K, and 5K has been taking place for almost twenty years, and now offers five events to choose from including: the Half Marathon, the 5K or 10K Road Race and the 5K or 10K Trail race.

Come out ahead, and you may even win a signature alligator head trophy.

Proceeds from the event help TR AIL do work in and around Acadiana Park. Registration is $45 for the half marathon, $35 for either of the 10Ks, and $20 for either of the 5Ks. Register // D E C 2 0

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Events

Beginning December 12 - December 19

online or between 6:45 am and 8:15 am on race day near start/finish line at 1205 E. Alexander St. Half Marathon begins at 7:30 am; 10Ks start at 8 am; 5Ks start at 8:20 am. A post race meal will be provided by Cafe 20.3 on the Bayou. latrail.org. k

DEC

12th

HOLIDAY CHEER NEW IBERIA CHRISTMAS PARADE New Iberia, Louisiana

The New Iberia Downtown Alliance presents its annual Christmas parade and tree-lighting ceremony to herald the holidays. Beginning with the 5:30 pm lighting at City Hall, revelers can line up from Ann Street to Railroad Street to watch the 6 pm parade filled with floats, visiting royalty, dance schools, and school band performances. iberiatravel.com. k

DEC

12

th

FUN RUN Q50 RACES SANTA ON TRAILS 5K RUN/WALK Mandeville, Louisiana

Put on your Santa suit or Rudolph antlers,

bring a toy for the kids of the New Orleans Mission Shelter, and get ready to walk or run this festive 5K through scenic Fontainebleau State Park along Lake Pontchartrain. Refreshments will be provided by the New Orleans Mission. All ages welcome, and all participants will get a Santa suit and handmade medal. Admission is free for spectators ($3 park entrance fee), racers’ fee is $35. Proceeds benefit the New Orleans Mission Shelter. Registration closes on Tuesday, December 8, 2020. Check in 7 am–8:30 am, race begins at 9 am. ultrasignup.com/register. k

DEC

12th

GIFT SHOPPING CHRISTMAS PAST MARKET Mandeville, Louisiana

One of the most-anticipated Northshore holiday events is back in a big way: It’s the Old Mandeville Business Associations’s Seventeenth Annual Christmas Past Market, on Girod Street in Old Mandeville.

Over seventy-five artists, craftspeople, and merchants from across the New Orleans area will offer their handmade goods, with the theme “Christmas Past Classics” giving a nod to holiday favorites. Arts and crafts

Artistry of Light By Mary T. Wiley

activities for children, local food vendors, and performing holiday characters will add to the atmosphere. Attendees will also enjoy live music by a trio from the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. Festive costumes and holiday attire are encouraged. Free. 10 am–4 pm. oldmandevillebiz.com. k

DEC

DEC

12th

GIFT SHOPPING CHRISTMAS TEA AT MAGNOLIA COTTAGE Natchez, Mississippi

It’s tea time at Magnolia Cottage Bed & Breakfast, brought to life all the more by the jingly jangly jolliness of the holidays.

Enjoy a medley of teas, an assortment of sweets and treats, tea-sandwiches, and scones. Your hostess will offer a special tour and history on Magnolia Cottage B&B, along with live music and door prizes.

Every guest will go home with a Christmas gift. 11 am–noon and 2 pm–3 pm. $30. magnoliacottagebandb.com. k

DEC

downtown St. Martinville aglow with the lighting of the church square. The evening’s planned festivities also include evening Mass, a live nativity, a chariot parade, a choral performance, and a memorial lighting. 4 pm–8 pm. k

12th

HOLIDAY CHEER ST. LUCY FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS St. Martinville, Louisiana

‘Tis the season for the return of the St. Lucy Festival of Lights at Saint Martin de Tours Catholic Church, or “the Mother Church of the Acadians.” The annual event turns

12th

HOLIDAY CHEER DECK THE PARK WITH PYROTECHNICS Covington, Louisiana

Touted as the “Gulf South’s most epic Christmas Fireworks Musical Display,” Jake West with Geaux Pyro’s fireworks show promises an unforgettable night at Coquille Parks & Recreation. In addition to the explosive happenings, enjoy eats from local food trucks, arts and crafts vendors, yard games, face painting, train rides, and a petting zoo. A giant inflatable screen will also show The Star for anyone unentertained by what is happening in the sky.

3 pm–7 pm. $25; five and younger are free. louisiananorthshore.com. k

DEC

12th

- DEC

STEPPIN’ OUT BALLET APETREI’S NUTCRACKER

13th

Covington, Louisiana

Dances from Clara and dreams of sugarplums complete any holiday season, and Ballet Apetrei is bringing

Elizabethan Gallery More than just a frame shop.

Frame a Memory or Give the Gift of Art The Gifts That Last a Lifetime!

WE FRAME UNTIL CHRISTMAS EVE! No deadline

Merry Christ mas!

Installation & maintenance on new & pre-existing lighting

Landscape Lighting Specialists

Transforming outdoor spaces throughout Louisiana for 39 years.

225-955-7584 • artistryoflight.com • MARY T. WILEY

22

D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

Gulf Coast Evening, 36x18, Oil by Janice Evans

Beach Explosion, 20x20, Oil by Kathy Daigle

Amaryllis in Shadow, 20x20, Oil by Claire Pasqua

O N E DAY F R A M I N G AVA I L A B L E 680 Jefferson Highway, Baton Rouge, LA 70806 225-924-6437

them back to Covington for their thirty-second annual performance of Nutcracker: The Kingdom of the Sweets at Fuhrmann Auditorium. Saturday 2 pm and 7 pm, 2 pm Sunday. $10–$35. balletapetrei.net. k

DEC

13th

FESTIVE FILMS IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE (1946) SCREENING Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Manship Theatre, in true form, brings you a screening of the Christmas classic. Guardian angels and good deeds remind George Bailey that we’re all here for a reason. 2 pm. $9.50. Call (225) 344-0334 to reserve your seat. manshiptheatre.org. k

DEC

15th

LIVE MUSIC BRIAN SHAW: COOL WINTER NIGHTS, HOT JAZZ Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The holidays are heating up with this year’s Cool Winter Nights, Hot Jazz at the Manship! The performance will feature Brian Shaw, Willis Delony, and Bill Grimes in a program of new arrangements and holiday favorites— all in socially-distanced form on the River Terrace on the Shaw Center’s fourth f loor. 7:30 pm. $50. manshiptheatre.org. k

DEC

17th

LIVE MUSIC ACADIANA SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA’S BELIEVE! CONCERT Lafayette, Louisiana

The Acadiana Symphony Orchestra presents their annual program full of traditional holiday favorites— celebrating the power to “Believe!”

Joined by the Lafayette High School Chorus and the ASO Youth Orchestra, the Orchestra will present a sleigh-ful of tunes to get the whole family in the holiday spirit, including selections from Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker and Handel’s Messiah. 7 pm. $10. acadianasymphony.org. k

DEC

17th

HOLIDAY CHEER CHRISTMAS ON THE NORTHSHORE CONCERT Mandeville, Louisiana

Each year St. Timothy on the Northshore United Methodist Church choir offers this gift to the community.

A collaborative arts project, Christmas on the Northshore presents the Big Easy Award-winning St. Timothy Choir, who will perform arrangements of treasured Christmas favorites

as well as modern holiday classics.

Livestreamed on the St. Timothy on the Northshore United Methodist Church website at 3 pm and 7 pm.

Free. (985) 626-3307. sttimothyumc.org. k

DEC

17th

- DEC

20th

THEATRE IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE: A LIVE RADIO PLAY Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Step back into Bedford Falls in this inspired retelling of a favorite holiday movie. Complete with classic sound effects produced live on stage, It’s A Wonderful Life: A Live Radio Play is performed in the style of a live 1940s radio broadcast. 7:30 pm Thursday– Saturdays; 2 pm Sundays. Tickets start at $25.75. This performance will be presented live, with limited seating. theatrebr.org. k

DEC

18th

COMEDY SPOOF NIGHT! WITH HARRY POTTER Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Welcome to Hogwarts School of Stagecraft and Ribaldry. Take the magic seriously, but everything else is fair game when it comes to The Family Dinner Comedy Troupe’s Spoof Night on Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. The interactive movie experience tackles beloved films with live commentary, digital skits, and audience-curated improv games. All patrons are required to wear a mask in all public areas, which can be removed to eat and drink once seated. 7:30 pm. $11. Call (225) 344-0334 to reserve your seats. manshiptheatre.org. k

DEC

...a way to give and to receive®

19th

LIVE MUSIC A CELTIC CHRISTMAS WITH ANNA DEAN AND FRIENDS Natchez, Mississippi

Who doesn’t love a haunting Celtic tune played skillfully on the fiddle? Anna Dean comes to Natchez’s Stanton Guest House, in a one-time only Christmas season performance to play Celtic and Bluegrass accompanied by Alex Ocón on percussion. 6 pm. $28, includes wine and entertainment. bontempstix.com. k

DEC

19th

“I worked at Seniors Helping Seniors part-time for more than a year and the owners genuinely care for their employees and clients.”

-Former Caregiver “I want to thank SHS for the love you showed mom day in and day out.

Mom would share that if you Garry couldn’t find anyone for transportations, he would take her to the doctor himself and sit with her.

You gave her security! She felt taken care of and you allowed her to live in her own home with dignity! I am forever thankful to you. My mom was an amazing mom and she thought so highly of you and Seniors Helping Seniors family…again thank you”-PG

OPERA AMAHL AND THE NIGHT VISITORS Online

Poor Amahl and his mother receive an unexpected visit from three magnificent kings in Menotti’s

225.778.7699 • www.seniorcarebatonrougela.com // D E C 2 0

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Events

Beginning December 19 - December 31 classic one-act opera Amahl and the Night Visitors. Renowned talent and holiday spirit will warm the stage when Opéra Louisiane presents Amahl this Christmas season. Performance details and ticket information to come. opéralouisiane.com. k

DEC

19th

- DEC

20th

STEPPIN’ OUT THE NUTCRACKER AT LAFAYETTE BALLET THEATRE Lafayette, Louisiana

An Acadiana tradition sets the stage again with the full-length, classical ballet, The Nutcracker, performed by the Lafayette Ballet Theatre professional company dancers. Don’t miss this timeless tale by E.T.A. Hoffman set to Tchaikovsky’s famous score, presented virtually this year. More details coming soon at lafayetteballettheatre.org. k

DEC

20th

CAROLS CAROLING IN JACKSON SQUARE New Orleans, Louisiana

A holiday tradition that has been going

since 1946, New Orleans’ ultimate community experience attracts voices from near and far. Always held the Sunday before Christmas, caroling crowds illuminate Jackson Square with the light from thousands of little white candles provided free of charge by Patio Planters—the event’s major sponsor.

Professional and amateur carolers come to croon all the Christmas favorites.

Gates open at 6:30 pm with caroling from 7 pm. Free. patioplanters.org. k

DEC

22nd

LIVE MUSIC NOCCA’S HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS CONCERT & AUCTION Online

The New Orleans Center for Creative Arts Institute returns with its annual fundraiser for the Daniel Price Memorial Fund for Aspiring Artists, which gives exceptional NOCCA graduates the opportunity to pursue higher educational studies in the visual and musical arts. This year’s event will be held remotely, and will feature performances by Jazz

Preservation Hall, John Boutte, Kermit Ruffins, and more—all accompanied by a silent auction. Details to come at noccainstitute.com. k

DEC

27th

LIVE MUSIC BATON ROUGE HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS CONCERT Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Join beloved Louisiana singersongwriters for this beloved tradition, returning for the eleventh year in a row. Pursuing their careers near and far, David Borné, CJ Solar, and Rhett Anthony return to the Capitol Region for the holidays for this special sociallydistanced concert on the Shaw Center’s River Terrace. manshiptheatre.org. k

DEC

31st

AULD LANG SYNE NEW YEAR’S EVE AT THE CANNERY New Orleans, Louisiana

Say a much-anticipated goodbye to 2020 at the modern, sophisticated venue the Cannery in New Orleans, with premium food, drinks, and of course fireworks on the roof. Masks required when not seated at a table, and social distancing enforced.

Ages twenty-one and up. Tickets begin at $105 on Eventbrite. k

Meet Me at the Mag For the Holidays!

5689

3-V Tourist Courts •1940’s Motor Hotel • Reservations: 225-721-7003 24

D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

ADVERTISEMENT

West Feliciana Chamber Honors Local Businesses at Banquet

T

he West Feliciana Chamber of Commerce hosted a banquet Thursday evening November 19 at the recently remodeled Bluffs Event Center to honor and recognize the exceptional achievements at our Champions of Commerce Business Awards.

Awards recognized were Large Business of the Year, which include those businesses with 20+ employees. These businesses have demonstrated growth in employment, production, and/or operations and have a substantial history of success. Nominees were Bank of St. Francisville, West Feliciana Hospital and Sullivan Dental Center. The winner was Bank of St. Francisville.

Small Business of the Year nominees are businesses that are industry leaders in their respective market and have a history of success. Nominees were Restaurant 1796 at the Myrtles, Patrick’s Fine Jewelry, and Heirloom Cuisine. The winner was Restaurant 1796 at the Myrtles.

New Business of the Year is for a business that is a newcomer within the last two years to our community and demonstrates

Congratulations to the Winners of the

WEST FELICIANA CHAMBER of COMMERCE

Champions of Commerce BUSINESS AWARDS

Large Business of the Year

Bank of St.Francisville

a high level of entrepreneurial spirit, leadership, perseverance, creativity, and determination. The nominees were The St. Francisville Inn, El Mejor Restaurant, and Anytime Fitness. The winner was The St. Francisville Inn. The Community Champion Award was given to businesses or individuals that have contributed time and devoted skills and efforts that positively impact our community. Nominees were Audubon Market, District Mercantile, and Child Advocacy Services. The winner was Audubon Market.

Volunteer of the Year was awarded to wonderful

individuals that have devoted significant time and efforts to community service initiatives as well as Chamber-sponsored functions that positively impact West Feliciana. Nominees were owners of A Hint of Lime Tacos, Aimee Cook, Missy Couhig, and Melissa Hall. The winners were Nikki Davis and David Voigt of Hint of Lime.

Lending his voice to the night was James FoxSmith of Country Roads Magazine as he emceed the awards. The live auction was hosted by Clay Pinson of Record Insurance Agency. Presenting sponsor for the night was Dr. Candice Sullivan of Sullivan Dental Center, who spoke about SKIN, an exciting new medical spa service now offered at their clinic.

The Chamber offered thanks to the other sponsors as well: Gold sponsors were Didier Consultants, Bank of St. Francisville, Record Insurance Agency, KG&L Capital Management, and West Feliciana Hospital.

Silver Sponsors were The Corbel, UMB, Country Roads, Maginnis Construction Company, Red Stick Armature, and The Bluffs Clubhouse.

Confident Smiles are Our Strength!

Small Business of the Year

Restaurant 1796

New Business of the Year

St. Francisville Inn

Champion of Commerce Award

Audubon Market

Volunteer of the Year

Hint of Lime Tacos

We at Sullivan Dental are dedicated to you and your healthy smile! Our friendly, experienced team offers a full range of services so that we can meet all of your dental needs and enhance your smile.

Presenting Sponsor:

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When our area's businesses win, we all win. TOGETHER.

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(225) 635-4422 | Commerce Street, St. Francisville, LA | SullivanDental.com // D E C 2 0

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Features

DECEMBER 2020

26

THE YEAR OF THE HOME

// 2 9

THE

PRALINE

LADIES

// 3 2 O N LY T A K E S

HEARTH & HOME

A

LITTLE

BIT OF ROOM

W

E S S AY

Homeowners

AFTER A VERY INDOOR YEAR, THE NEW HOUSE HAS HELD UP Story and photos by Lucie Monk Carter

I

n September 2019, after three years of emailing back and forth listings, driving around Greater Baton Rouge at rush hour, cringing at orange carpets, wincing at price tags, and stopping our toddler from using the toilet at properties where the water had been disconnected, we did it: 26

We bought our first home!

I have heard millennials are incapable of buying homes these days, and I will allow that it would not have happened at all if the mortgage company’s website hadn’t been so vibrant, with a fluid and friendly user interface. In the delirious final days of inspections and negotiations,

D E C 2 0 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

I only staggered through thinking of the triumphant Instagram post on the other side. (109 likes, 12 “congratulations”.)

The frantic pace of the Baton Rouge real estate market demanded an element of impulse akin to choosing a snack at the grocery checkout, but with a slightly wider price tag. Yes, we knew

we wanted three or four bedrooms, space for a home office, and sure, throw in a couple of bathrooms while you’re at it. But only in a few of the homes we visited (and with our excellent, patient realtor, who is also my aunt, Anne Trapp, we visited several dozen) did I feel the heavy blanket of certainty descend on my shoulders as we walked

through bare beige rooms.

When we got the timing right, we got our house. A very indoor year later, with a seven-month-old who thinks this muffled, distant world is normal and still has not slept a full night through, we have stuffed these two stories very much with us. But I’ve had enough wakeful hours staring at the sloped ceilings to detail just what I like about the house itself. Step inside:

The Windows Cardinal directions have never been my strong suit (“So if the Mississippi River travels from north to south and this right here is I-10 West, oh heck, just turn left at the McDonald’s.”), but I’m learning thanks to my house that’s nearly half glass. The sun burrows into one corner of the upstairs bedroom window, a greeting from the East, and I head down to a light-filled living room even before I call out to my robot butlers, Google and Siri. (What would Wodehouse have made with WiFi, Jeeves, and Bertie Wooster?)

None of our windows had blinds or curtains when we bought the house.

We have made several officious trips to Home Depot but still not covered every pane. I hope we never will. Wellplanted shrubbery lends the kitchen windows a greenish cast as we drink our coffee, eat our breakfast, and wake.

In our front room, my daughter Mae builds towers of translucent tiles in the picture window. Sunset scatters rainbows on the carpet.

When our second daughter was born in April, in the midst of the Great Toilet Paper Shortage, we nearly invited well-wishers to our front window, to tap and coo at the new arrival in her terrarium. “... or we could just sit outside,” I said.

The Trees Outside three water oaks tower and take our backyard just over the edge

of suburbia into woodland or, at the very least, grove. We loved the crimped roots at Easter, as they sheltered real and plastic eggs, but when hurricane after hurricane grazed Baton Rouge, we began to plot their removal.

Barring hell and high water, that ugly pair that has visited elsewhere in Louisiana this year and still has a month to reach us, the little backyard kingdom remains intact. I like its fragile peace. Even at the height of her colic, the baby would stop crying the minute we stepped out of the back door onto the patio. Many evenings, I dispelled her witching hour by bringing her out to a concert of the creaky insect world, to which I sometimes added my creaky singing.

Tired mothers give so much, but in return we get the stays of our social corsets loosened to sing lullabies.

“You’ ll never know, dear....”

The Neighbors It’s not just the baby and me when we retreat outdoors. We have neighbors. Our predecessors had carved an ungated archway into the yard on the left, as their friendship with Frank and Roselyn next door bloomed. We need decades to catch up, and lots of time disappears into our preemptive convalescence this spring, summer, and fall. But with the low fence we can still chat, and someone else sees the baby nearly daily.

We putter in our adjacent yards in step, or rather, Frank sets the pace, and we try to keep up. I’m embarrassed when the vegetable garden turns brown, but I think my sense of the neighbor has been strangled by a weird year and an anxious streak in my generation. (I would not, for instance, put a picture of my garden on Facebook.) After one storm, after he picks up his branches, Frank walks through the arch and tends to ours.

THE SUN BURROWS INTO ONE CORNER OF THE UPSTAIRS BEDROOM WINDOW, A GREETING FROM THE EAST, AND I HEAD DOWN TO A LIGHT-FILLED LIVING ROOM EVEN BEFORE I CALL OUT TO MY ROBOT BUTLERS, GOOGLE AND SIRI.

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Homeowners continued . . .

The Character We’ll paint the bedroom walls some Benjamin Moore blue and maybe one day redo the floors (is there a glitter-resistant flooring?) but the interior came with ample personality in the meantime: built-in shelves and crown molding, winsome window seats, his-and-hers doors to the closet, and an open kitchen for the chatty cook. These features repeat themselves throughout the neighborhood—I can look across the street into another picture window—but they also help me script out the lives of the previous people who made this place home. On the back side of the old-brick fireplace, up the stairs, you can see where the children scratched their names (“Billy,” “Liz”). I trust we’ll do some artful damage of our own in the meantime. “Aw, I think a happy cat lived here,” the next owner will say in seven or so years.

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The Room to Grow “Don’t go making changes immediately,” my friend Rachel said when we first moved in. We were meant to take a few months to learn how we lived in the space.

Instead we embarked on our own HGTV show, Frantic Adaptations to Current Events.

We upgraded the WiFi and rigged up a second home office. We stocked our freezer and added a big-kid bed. In summer, we made room for my grandmother’s piano and other bittersweet inheritances.

When a major hurricane hit my hometown and displaced family, we inflated the air mattress and popped open a second Pack ‘n Play. The happiest part of a larger place had been the anticipation of houseguests. Home has brought me comfort; I can hold that feeling tight or send it out.

It’s been a hesitant year now owning this house. If the walls haven’t fallen tomorrow, I’ll go to Home Depot. I’ll stop in the paint aisle and ask for their calmest blue. h

HISTORY

The Praline Ladies THE 18TH CENTURY FREE WOMEN OF COLOR BEHIND NEW ORLEANS’ SIGNATURE SWEET

A

By Kirstie Myvett s a child growing up in byvegetables, flowers, blackberries, and Story by Jordan LaHaye • Photos Olivia Perillo New Orleans, one of the freshly-brewed coffee at the various memories I most return markets that dotted the city. Selling to is me, sitting in the pralines was particularly attractive kitchen, watching my grandmother because of the low-cost start up. The make pralines. I can still picture her main ingredient, pecans, were free for ladling the creamy mixture onto wax the taking. paper. I’d wait patiently as each dollop An article in a 1895 edition of The spread and magically cooled into an Times Picayune wrote of the praline edible treat. As an adult, their magic woman: “Ask the ebony woman how never wavered. In New Orleans, the gift to make this delicious brown sugar and of homemade pralines is treasured above pecan candy, and she will nod her head aromatic candles, wine, or chocolates. mysteriously and give you an indefinite The bearer of pralines is instantly answer, for the secret is her own, and propelled to a place of high esteem and she does not intend to reveal it.” Back must fulfill an unspoken, and sometimes then, long before these distinctive treats spoken, expectation of bringing them to were sold in candy stores, the vendeuse every gathering from that day forward. In de pralines could be found perched

IT WAS BLACK WOMEN, SOME OF WHOM MADE PRALINES IN THE KITCHENS OF THOSE WHO ENSLAVED THEM, THAT CREATED THE ICONIC NEW ORLEANS VERSION OF THE PRALINE CANDY.

New Orleans, pralines have always been a big deal.

As the story goes, early in the eighteenth century, French colonizers (namely the Ursuline nuns) first introduced the praline candy to the Crescent City. The delicacy’s namesake, a French duke called César, duc de Choiseul comte du Plessis-Praslin, suffered from a stomach ailment, and his chef created the sugared almond praline to aid in his digestive discomfort.

The version of New Orleans pralines we enjoy today—of the pecan variety— came from the city’s Black women, who took Praslin’s chef’s medicinal sweet and adapted it to Louisiana, making use of the abundant, regional nut, and adding milk or cream to thicken the sugary mixture. It was Black women, some of whom made pralines in the kitchens of those who enslaved them, that created the iconic New Orleans version of the praline candy.

In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Black women were some of the first women entrepreneurs in the Crescent City. This was during a time when women seldom worked outside of the home and had few to no rights. New Orleans had a large population of Black people, both enslaved and free. Both groups worked in various professions including street vendors making a living selling calas (fried powdered rice),

in a designated locale with her goods in a basket or spread out on a table.

Sometimes she roamed the French Quarter in search of customers. She made pink and coconut pralines, as well as the creamy pecan version that is popular today. As is written in an article titled “Cooking in the South” from the 1895 edition of Current Literature: “The plarine [sic] seller is from New Orleans, and hers is a distinctive and picturesque individuality.”

With the money earned from selling their goods, some of these entrepreneur women were even able to purchase their freedom or that of their loved ones. For these women, pralines were so much more than a sweet treat—they represented freedom and independence.

As their popularity grew though, the commercialization of pralines would later lead to a quiet dissolution of the praline ladies. A 1918 article in The International Confectioner claims: “A New Orleans firm seeing the wonderful possibilities of this old Louisiana mammy confection began to manufacture them according to the best of the old recipes, none of which were ever reduced to writing but had been carried in the heads of these old negroes and just made right.”

The resulting upswing of praline sales in candy shops included the rise of the offensive mammy figure—a caricature

Illustrations by Kameko Madere, from Praline Lady by Kristie Myvett © 2020, used by permission of the publisher, Pelican Publishing an imprint of Arcadia Publishing. // D E C 2 0

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The writer (pictured right) with New Orleans’ own “Praline Queen” Loretta Harrison (left). A favorite of locals and tourists alike, Harrison’s recipe—found at Loretta’s Pralines locations in the French Market and Bywater—comes from learning to make pralines from her mother as a child in St. Bernard Parish.

You can also order online at lorettaspralines.com. Photo courtesy of Kirstie Myvett.

of the very women who had originally made, sold, and popularized the product.

Some of these shops hired Black women, dressed in gingham and tignons, to play the “mammy” role to increase their sales.

Those original praline vendors weren’t viewed or respected as businesswomen, but instead reduced to stereotype and

symbol. Soon, they would be a forgotten silhouette on French Quarter streets. In 1918, The International Confectioner mourned the loss: “In the days before the war and for years afterwards the number of praline vendors in New Orleans was large, but as death gradually leveled these faithful old darkies to the

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earth the number decreased until now there are only a very few of them left and in another decade very likely there will be no more living representatives of Louisiana’s first candy manufacturers.”

I sometimes stare at their pictures from long ago, of the praline ladies taking a break with their basket at their feet and can’t help but notice the palpable hardship these women endured, evident in their faces along with the pride in their resilient eyes. New Orleans’ Praline Ladies persevered during impossibly difficult times and created opportunities for themselves, even without any formal education. What courage it must have taken to start a business, and believe that you could do it, while facing oppression based on your race and gender. It was their talent and determination that led to the enduring permanence of pralines.

Pralines belonged to Black women, who, in turn, shared them with New Orleans.

Today, the legacy of the Praline Lady endures. And thanks to modern technology, the entrepreneur women who follow in her footsteps no longer walk the streets hoping to sell what’s in their baskets, nor need they worry about being caught out in the sudden thunderstorms that drench our floodprone city. They can do it all from the comfort of their homes via Instagram, or even text message.

Ronica M. Taylor’s Nola Praline Boss sells varieties of the candy in the form of praline brownies, praline cheesecake and praline double layer cake. “Growing up in the Ninth Ward of New Orleans I loved walking to the local praline lady’s house as a kid to buy delicious pralines,” said Taylor. “I would have never imagined I would now be called “praline lady”. I give honor to all of the praline ladies who came before me and inspired me.”

Rosalyn Clark has also built a thriving business selling her sweet wares through her online shop Rosalyn’s Pralines, which provides pralines as party favors for weddings, birthdays, and other celebrations. “Thinking about the Black women who were entrepreneurs in their own right, but labeled as peddlers in a mocked tone of the time, gave me the desire to own what I envision with the sweet tradition of my ancestors’ entrepreneurship,” said Clark. “Own it, put a name on it, and tell the story of its roots.” h

Kirstie Myvett is a children’s author whose books feature diverse characters. Her debut picture book Praline Lady can be purchased at arcadiapublishing.com.

RECIPE

Photo by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Traditional Pralines Recipe by Kirstie Myvett

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istorically and today, praline makers have always closely guarded their recipes. and passed them down only through their families. As is noted in 1895 issue of Current Literature: “Ask the ebony woman how to make this delicious brown sugar and pecan candy, and she will nod her head mysteriously and give you an indefinite answer, for the secret is her own, and she does not intend to reveal it...” Happily, contributing writer Kirstie Myvett has shared a version of her own family recipe with us, encouraging all to keep in in mind the delicacy’s rich history and the Black women behind it.

—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot Ingredients 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 1/2 cups brown sugar 1 cup milk 1 cup condensed milk 1/4 cup butter 2 cups pecan halves 2 tablespoons vanilla Directions 1. Spray wax paper with cooking spray 2. In large pot, bring sugar, brown sugar, milk, and condensed milk to a boil, stirring frequently (approximately 10-12 minutes).

3. Stir in butter and pecan halves. Continue stirring until mixtures thickens.

4. Remove from heat, and add vanilla, stirring it through mixture for 1-2 minutes.

5. Take spoonfuls of mixture and pour on wax paper 6. Let mixture settle and firm for approximately 1- 1 1/2 hours.

And when you’re in the market for the real thing, be sure to patronize these New Orleans shops, run by modern-day Praline Ladies:

Rosalyn’s Pralines deliciouspralines.com Nola Praline Boss nola_praline_boss on instagram Keyala’s Pralines kpralines.com Loretta’s Authentic Pralines lorettaspralines.com // D E C 2 0

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S PAC E S

Living Small

KAREN MCCOY MARRIES MINIMALISM AND COMMUNITY IN HER TINY HOME VENTURE AT BURLEIGH PLANTATION Story by Jonathan Olivier • Photos by Paul Kieu y Jordan LaHaye • Photos by Olivia Perillo

K

aren McCoy had always loved her home in Bunkie. She raised her children in the spacious nineteenth century house, and the memories made there will always be held dearly. But when the children grew and left home one by one, the modest structure began to feel oversized.

“It felt like a mansion,” said McCoy, now sixty-one.

For McCoy, living alone in the large home started to make less and less sense. But she didn’t quite have plans to move until one evening 32

when she was watching HGTV and learned about the architectural and social phenomenon of the Tiny House Movement. Almost immediately, she said, she was drawn to the idea of not only downsizing, but of having a home on wheels that she could take with her wherever she wanted to go.

Tiny houses are small dwellings, typically less than 120 square feet and situated on a trailer, making them mobile. McCoy started following groups dedicated to showcasing these small homes on social media, on YouTube videos, and she scoured the web to find cool diminutive dwelling

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designs. The pastime evolved into research as she started to plan her own tiny home.

“I had the intention to take the tiny house and put it where I wanted to live,” she said. “But if something should occur or change, I liked the idea that all I had to do was hook it up and move it. Turns out I had a minimalist spirit but just hadn’t realized it.”

About four years ago, McCoy contacted Tiny House Chattanooga, an award-winning construction company, to turn her dream into a reality. After months of collecting ideas, designer and builder Mike

Bedsole helped bring her conception to life—drawing up plans and discussing how her home might look. McCoy decided she wanted only the shell on a trailer and that she would finish the interior herself.

“My aunt and godmother—who is seventy-five—she and I worked on it for two years,” she said. “We did the insulation, wiring, plumbing, put in the walls. It was a great journey.”

McCoy had the finished tiny home parked in Bunkie, but she had a desire to go somewhere else. Since she worked in Carencro, she looked toward Lafayette, but local ordinances

dissuaded her. In St. Landry Parish, with fewer zoning laws, she found a better option. Slowly, she realized she didn’t want to live alone on some property somewhere; she wanted a community.

From Oversized to Tiny The median size of a house in the United States today is around 1,600 square feet. After World War II, sprawling, new suburbs were growing and full of first-time homeowners, but those dwellings were around a modest eight hundred square feet on average. Before that, most homes were even smaller, even with larger families living in them. These days, mansions hardly house more than a handful of individuals.

With the growth in house size came an increase in home prices. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, in 2019

McCoy had her tiny home built out by Tiny House Chattanooga, and then spent the next two years finishing out the interior.

the median price of new, single-family home sold totaled $321,500 and median size was 2,322 square feet.

But in 2007, the nation was beginning to spiral into the worst financial crisis since the Great Depression of the 1930s. By 2008, the nation was in the depths of the Great Recession. People lost their jobs.

Homes were foreclosed. The stock market tanked.

In those trying times, though, people got creative. While massive homes with astronomical price tags were vacant or simply too expensive for people to maintain, groups of

innovators around the country began thinking small. Building a small home required fewer materials, which made it economical to own a home without a huge mortgage. Building the homes on trailer frames ensured they could be moved to suit a nomadic lifestyle— or be just mobile enough to park into someone’s backyard or a campground, saving on rent and bypassing buying property.

According to a report by USA Today, in 2016 it was estimated that there were 10,000 tiny homes in the country. Many of those came in the wake of the Recession and were fueled

by cash-strapped millennials seeking an affordable way to own a home. But what started as a collection of frugal individuals looking for a cheaper home evolved into a cultural movement that began to encompass basic tenets of simplicity and frugality while rejecting American consumerism culture.

Simple Living Downsizing requires choosing what items in the home are necessities. With only minimal square feet to work with, McCoy had to essentially get rid of most of the possessions that had filled her old home. Looking closely // D E C 2 0

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or needed something repaired, or if someone just had a void in their life, you came and helped,” she said.

McCoy sees her countercultural living arrangements as a commitment to living intentionally. Part of that commitment is to share with those around her. Much like those of her grandparents’ era, she sees community as a necessity and a building block to creating a fruitful life.

Living Intentionally

What began as an exciting move to a simpler lifestyle and more mobility became—for McCoy—a more sustainable way of life, rejecting wasteful consumer capitalism in favor of minimalist intentionality.

at everything, she prioritized certain items that she figured she would use frequently. Others were tossed out.

“We tend to get things, put them in a closet and forget about them,” she said.

“With a tiny house, you can’t do that.

If I see something I want to buy, I have to consider carefully if I have a place for it. You become a conscientious buyer.”

While initially drawn to the tiny house movement by of the promise of mobility and a simpler lifestyle, McCoy began to see her decision as an ethical choice that rejects unfettered capitalist consumerism. She calls it living like her grandparents did— trying to exist closer to the earth rather than embracing “disposable society,” she said.

“People used to wash a dish when they finished eating. They protected what they had. Society wasn’t so concerned about throwing things away, and people didn’t waste as much. They gardened, had cows and chickens.”

And perhaps most importantly for McCoy, people seemed to help one another. “If someone went missing

Not long after honing in on St. Landry Parish for property, McCoy found a spot in Grand Coteau. It was four acres with an Antebellum-era home originally called the Burleigh Plantation. She was instantly drawn to the spot’s charm, and not long after purchased it to jumpstart her vision of a tiny home community—Burleigh Plantation: A Place for Tiny Homes.

Her plans include housing more than nine abodes. Although, she said, she doesn’t want the spot to look like an RV park. Her design includes grouping three homes in a semi-circle, spaced into four groups. Already, she’s had three concrete slabs poured that comprise the initial group. The first guest tiny home on the property

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belongs to Jimmy and Cherie Hebert, who in 2017 founded Tee Tiny Homes located in Arnaudville, a tiny house building venture that eventually fizzled out. McCoy also rents the renovated plantation home to a couple whom she considers part of the growing Burleigh Plantation community.

McCoy is on the hunt for more members to join the community who share a desire to live simply and connect with people around At Burleigh Plantation, McCoy hopes to establish an intentional community of tiny livers, working together towards a simpler, more holistic lifestyle. them.

“What I’m hoping to find are One day, McCoy hopes to have said. It’s wildly unlike the way many To me, thinking different and being people who are accepting of others, her property full of tiny homes. Americans live, but, McCoy said, that’s different is a gift. Outside the box and actually live a life of loving one She envisions a community that exactly the point. thinkers are the ones who drive the another,” she says. “In order for a contributes to holistic gardening, “In the world, some people say you world.” H community to grow, you have to be keeping animals like chickens. have to do this—this is the norm,” compassionate and forward thinking Everyone would work together and she said. “When you step out from the facebook.com/simple. and accepting.” tiny.living/ share their lives with each other, she norm, it’s different. You’re different.

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Cuisine

DECEMBER 2020

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AN

EVENING

AT THE

ART FARM

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HOW MUCH

T H E A R T FA R M

FILÉ

DO YOU

SUGAR & SASSAFRAS

PUT IN YOUR GUMBO?

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“When you’re walking through the farm, you hear the cows and horses hollerin’ at ya, saying ‘feed me!’” John described, “It takes the blood pressure JUST DOWN THE ROAD, AN IMAGINATIVE ESCAPE AT SUGAR FARMS’ ISTROUMA BREWERY down.” The couple also keeps a pen Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot • Photos by Alexandra Kennon of goats and sheep, visible from the brewery’s courtyard atop a three-story playground.

Though the farm does reside in the heart of sugarcane country, less than five miles away from the LSU Audubon Sugar Institute, John’s focus is primarily on raising livestock, and the name comes from a place more sentimental than strategic. “Growing up in our families, when we get a lot of love and kisses, we call it sugar,” he explained. “People think sugar cane, but it’s really just some lovin’.”

The brewery was born as a combination of John’s interest in homebrewing and cuisine, and the couple’s desire to share their beautiful property with others. “We wanted this to be a place where people can create their own stories,” he said. Officially opened on October 16, the Sugar Farms complex includes the Feed & Seed eatery, a farmto-table pizza and taco kitchen operating out of a 1955 Spartan Royal Mansion trailor; the Cattle Drive-In “Moovie” Theatre, which debuted with a showing of Dracula (1931) on its thirty-foot screen on Halloween; and of course the Istrouma Brewing Company, a familyfriendly taproom and courtyard scattered n perhaps one of for our Thursday afternoon reunion LSU Football experience. Together, they with local art, antiques, and yard games.

South Louisiana’s was the opening of the region’s newest also created a Louisiana children’s multi“We feel that we have created an ‘art most gorgeous days brewery: John and Joanna Haynes’ media platform called The Gumbo Gang farm,’” said John. “The arts take place of this godforsaken Istrouma Brewing. Creative brews on Boogie Bayou, which uses animation, in many ways—painting, photography, year, the four members of the Country made with locally-sourced ingredients television, and video games to educate on film, food, beer.” With bocce, a lifeRoads editorial team convened in the we expected—this is hardly our first nutrition and exercise. sized chess board, Connect Four, a ping little river town of St. Gabriel. Though microbrewery feature. But the longhorns “We loved telling stories together pong table, a couple of screens to check it’s just enough off the beaten path to were a bit of a surprise. through our art and our film and the local scores, and a Bark Park, Sugar convince someone they’ve wandered “We wanted our children to grow television projects,” said John. “We Farms—John emphasized—is meant to far, far from home, Sugar Farms is up on a gravel road,” said John, a Baton wanted our children to have the space to be a place for “kids of all ages.” only a twenty-minute drive from our Rouge native best known for his work create their own little stories.”

As for the four kids aged twenty-three Baton Rouge office. Of course, in this as a nationally-renowned contemporary Moving to Sugar Farms ten years ago to fifty-one sitting out in the courtyard year’s move to work-from-home, it’s painter. With his wife Joanna, he also was a dream fulfilled for the couple. that Thursday night—after ogling a become increasingly rare for the four founded Wish Picture Shows, producing Since the move, John’s paintings, piano-turned-table with five vintage of us to gather in person at all, and on several documentary films, including a which have been described as “more barber’s chairs as seating and the clarinets this afternoon we each made around an feature (narrated by Trace Adkins) on the like memories of a place, a sound, or used as light fixtures—we were ready to hour’s drive from our respective home 1960s boxing champion Billy ‘The Kid’ motion,” have shifted in subject matter get our hands on the beer. Three of us offices in St. Francisville, New Orleans, Roth called The Dance (2003) and Ole from motifs of clotheslines, ceiling fans, started with sours, my cohorts ordering Mandeville, and Scott.

War Skule: The Story of Saturday Night and pianos to tractors, chickens, oil rigs, the POG (standing for Passionfruit, The occasion, or perhaps excuse, (2011), which details the history of the and—naturally—longhorns.

Orange, and Guava) and the Lena Lei,

Gimme Some Sugar

O

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which features hints of mango and hibiscus from Lena Farms in Clinton.

As for myself, I went with the fresh and fizzy blackberry sour still brewing in the back. A fabulous fandango shade of purple, it possesses the perfect balance of tang and fruitiness, without veering off into the land of the sweets. I’ll drink a sour any day, but with the teasing cooler temperatures of the early November clime, I craved something darker next— opting for the Bourbon Barrel-Aged Black Ale. A heavy beer, it holds a semisweet bite of liquor that also somehow lightens it, and even leaves room in the belly for another if one is so inclined.

Compelled to get as complete a sense of the menu as I could without risking my hour-drive home though, I finished off with the Frozen Strawbierita, which is made with Istrouma’s Margarita Gose blended with fresh strawberries and coconut cream. The gose, John said, is made from a really special salt that he and Joanna came across while traveling the year before. “This salt is one of the most pristine salts in the world,” he said.

“It’s an Egyptian salt mined out of the desert, and packed on camels to deliver it to the factories.”

Using such exotic ingredients has been fun for the Hayneses, and part of their larger missions to create beer with the palate at the forefront and to

foster storytelling in everything they do. However, using locally-sourced ingredients—they hope someday exclusively—is the number one priority.

Right now, both the blonde and bragget use honey from a farmer right down the road. The figgy strong ale gets most

of its weight from locally-grown figs— preserved with Grandpa Blue’s recipe— and Louisiana citrus is the secret to the frozen lemonade. On the pizzas, the verdant piles of greens, mushrooms, and edible flowers all come from nearby farmers, and someday, John hopes to

source his own cheese from his growing playground-climbing dairy herd. At our table the pizza crust sparked a series of full-mouthed “oohs” and “ahhs,” explained later when John told us it is made with their honey blonde brew and cooked in a cast iron pan. // D E C 2 0

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“We really have a focus on flavor no matter what we are doing,” he said. “Not looking at the cost of the product. We look at it the other way. We want the right ingredients to hit the right flavors, then we figure out how to make that work. And using those farm ingredients, local products, as much as possible, then making as much from scratch as we can—all these things roll into one really great formula.”

Being four editorially-minded people, it’s not hard to get us into a mode of storytelling, particularly when you add in the fact that we all quite miss each

other’s company. But each of us three beers in, tastebuds dancing between hops and various combinations of cheese, bread, and “Butt and Belly al pastor,” sharing an escape of an evening in a space made magical by the charm of café lights and children playing life-sized chess and the occasional goat’s bleat—well, it’s the very kind of connection to place and people that has always brought us storytellers to tell stories at all.

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Treats delivered like us on daily /CountryRoadsMag

ALL THE SASS

Notes on Filé

THE CHOCTAW INGREDIENT AND ITS INFLUENCE ON LOUISIANA’S MANY GUMBOS

Story and photos by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

A

few years ago, my parents—a born-andraised Mamou prairie Cajun and his twentyyear transplant Texan wife—stood at attention in a cooking class by Chef Frank Brigsten of Brigsten’s Restaurant, who was going to teach them to make a chicken and sausage gumbo.

“Now I know y’all are gumbo snobs out there,” joked the chef, who had trained under Opelousas native Chef Paul Prudhomme. My dad—skeptical but eager to be proven wrong about the superiority of our grandma’s recipe— laughed.

“What I remember most about that class,” he said, “is that he took a whole cup of file´—a whole cup!— and poured it into that gumbo.”

Like most families in Louisiana, gumbomaking in my house has always been its own ritual. Rainy, cold days curled on the couch come to mind, the air saturated with the savory notes of roux.

We breathe that smell in for hours upon hours, intoxicated and lazy.

When it finally, finally comes time to serve, we wait in line with our giant bowls—critically judging each sibling’s rice-to-broth ratio. The gumbo we make—most often, anyway—is of the chicken and smoked sausage variety (Teet’s, always). Growing up with a host of little brothers who hated all things green, we’ve generally stayed away from okra, and instead thicken our stew with more and more roux. Snobs we may be in some ways (I still don’t ever order gumbo at a restaurant),

we have no qualms about using the jarred stuff—Kary’s to be precise. As my grandmother once said, “Why spend hours cooking something that someone else does better anyway?”

With our bowls piping hot, we plop

a scoop of potato salad in the corner.

I always add a few dashes of Tabasco to mine, and Dad always pulls out the tiny baby food jar that lives in the cabinet with all of our coffee mugs.

Clear and label-less, with a blue Heinz

cap, it’s filled with the bright green powder that is filé. Using a tiny sugar spoon, I collect a dash of it—just like Dad taught me—and sprinkle it over the top of my gumbo ever so carefully.

If I put too much, the earthy, thymey

brought home baskets of satsumas, freshly-baked bread, jars of pickled everything from his patients. The filé was one such gift, hand-harvested by some man whose name Dad has long forgotten. Using it as we did, as a seasoning—a dash, a hint—the jar never ran out until this year.

“We’ve always used filé as a seasoning,” Dad said. “That’s how I’ve always known to use it. But this New Orleans chef was using it to actually thicken the gumbo.” He said that he was worried the taste would overwhelm the flavor, but was pleasantly surprised to find Brigsten’s result— though very different from our home-brewed concoction—rich and satisfying, dare I say delicious.

Coming from the native sassafras tree, filé has been a part of Louisiana’s cuisine far longer than we’ve called this region Louisiana, and way before anyone had ever heard of gumbo.

A significant herb in Native American— specifically Choctaw— culinary and medicinal traditions, the dried and ground leaves of the sassafras were originally called kombo. (Some researchers have posed the possibility that this is where gumbo as we know it got its name, As long as I can remember, my Dad kept our filé— though it is more likely given to us by a patient of his—in an old Heinz baby food jar. After finally getting to the end of it, he that the word “gumbo” decided to try and make his own batch. actually comes from the Angolan word for okra, kingombo.)

That filé’s use in gumbo traditions taste overwhelms the meatier flavors today varies as it does is hardly a of the soup. surprise. The Louisianan dish is The expiration date on the baby quintessentially Louisianan because food jar reads May 2002. Working as of its infinite varieties, representing a country doctor for the past twentythe rich diversity of cultures across five years, my dad has frequently // D E C 2 0

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the state—Native American, African, French, Créole, Cajun, Spanish, German— and all the ways those cultures have blended and melded over the last three hundred years.

Gumbo in New Orleans is different than gumbo in Lafayette, which is different from gumbo in Mamou.

And it is different from one side of the road to another, from house to house, and generation to generation.

Chef Brigsten’s generous use of filé in gumbo, however, turns out to be the more traditional method.

According to food writer Robert Moss—who sought out the African American roots of gumbo using clues in early nineteenth century cookbooks—filé was first added to the traditional African okra gumbo during the winter months when okra was out of season, substituting The sassafras tree, native to North America, can grow into a small to medium-sized tree and will sometimes spread into a small shrubbery colony. It can best be identified by its leaves, which can have one, two, or three lobes. The plant has been used for centuries as a spice, medicine, and tea in Native American cultures—particularly the it as a flavorful thickening Choctaw in Louisiana, who introduced filé to the Créole gumbo. agent to the stew. Over time, Falling under the thick brown roux the little sassafras grove at our family’s may have missed. though, filé gumbo surpassed its It turns out that harvesting sassafras status as a second choice, becoming camp, rather than the filé or okra camp and decided to make his own.

It wasn’t the first time he’d does depend quite a bit on seasonality. the preferred recipe for many across variety, our family’s gumbo recipe the state and even receiving a famous still calls for the Choctaw herb, just attempted it—with the help of his According to Choctaw tradition, nod in Hank Williams’’ 1952 hit in smaller portions. So this year, when green-thumbed grandmother, he August 15 is the sweet spot—though Dad found the jar empty, he looked to and a buddy had endeavored to make in recent years, peak harvest time has “Jambalaya (On the Bayou)”. the stuff as part of a middle school come earlier in the summer, likely social studies project. “We didn’t have due to climate change. In 2018, John time to properly dry our leaves, so we Oswald Colson was named a Louisiana cooked them in the oven,” he said. “It Tradition Bearer by the Louisiana was kind of a big ole failure.” But he Folklife Commission for his work as still remembers how to identify the a filé maker. In countless interviews sassafras tree. At the camp, he pointed he has shared his process, which he out that on a single branch you could describes as “sensitive harvesting”. find leaves that were single-lobed, Rather than cutting an entire branch, double-lobed, and triple-lobed.

Colson picks the sassafras leaves by A few months before, he had taken hand, one by one, to avoid damaging my little brother with him to cut the trees. He then spreads the leaves on some branches. After consulting the the floor, allowing them to dry under community forum “Louisiana wild an air conditioner for two to three edibles, foraging & wild medicinal weeks, turning them occasionally by plants & mushrooms” on Facebook, hand. After drying them, he destems he fashioned his branches into a bundle the leaves and grinds them up using a and hung them from the rafters of his traditional Choctaw tool called a pile barn, where he left them to dry for and pilon—which is sort of like a large around six weeks. “I’ve seen people wooden mortar and pestle. discuss, ‘How do you grind up your Like so many things in Louisiana, sassafras?’ and I saw that someone traditions build upon traditions. used a coffee grinder!” After getting Communities, histories, and families it almost to a texture that he liked, become interlinked by the virtue of he said he then ran it through an old- repetition, practice, and honor. So next fashioned sifter we had in the cabinet. year, in early summer, Dad and I will Then, he stored it in the old baby food try again to make our filé, perfecting jar. a centuries-old tradition that makes “I did notice,” he admitted, “that it our own family tradition more perfect. doesn’t seem to have as much flavor But in the meantime, as we settle into as the filé we were using before.” He the middle of gumbo season, his own wondered if there were certain details batch will serve our ritual just fine. h Every family has their own gumbo recipe, but the three main “categories” of gumbo are okra, filé, and brown roux. My family has always mostly made our chicken and sausage gumbo with a thick brown of seasonality or preparation that he roux, and sprinkled filé on top as a seasoning.

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RECIPE

Filé Gumbo with Chicken & Andouille Recipe by Frank Brigsten of Brigsten’s Restaurant Yield: 1 gallon (12 10-oz. bowl servings)

Ingredients:

Method:

¾ cup + 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cup all-purpose white flour 2 tablespoons mild olive oil (pomace) 1 lb. andouille sausage, sliced into half-rounds ¼” thick 4 cups diced yellow onions, ½” pieces 3 cups diced celery, ½” pieces 2 cups diced green bell peppers, ½” pieces 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic 3 ½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon whole-leaf dried thyme 1 teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 3 tablespoons gumbo filé powder 2 lbs. diced boneless chicken, about 4 cups, diced into ¾-inch pieces 10 cups unsalted rich chicken stock

1. Make a dark brown roux: Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat. When the skillet is very hot, add ¾ cup and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil. When the oil reaches frying temperature, about 350°, gradually whisk in 1 cup of flour, whisking or stirring constantly. Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux becomes the color of peanut butter. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the roux is deep reddish brown (dark caramel). If the roux begins to smoke and thicken, remove from heat and continue whisking until it thins back out. Set aside to cool for 20-30 minutes. The roux will continue to darken as it cools.

2. Make the gumbo: Heat 2 tablespoons of mild olive oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the andouille sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is well browned.

3. Add half of the onions, celery, and bell pepper.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions begin to brown (caramelize). Add the remaining half of the onions, celery, and bell peppers. Cook, stirring

occasionally, until the second stage of onions become soft and clear.

4. Reduce heat to low. Add the bay leaves, garlic, salt, thyme, black pepper, white pepper, cayenne, and gumbo filé powder. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3-4 minutes.

5. Add the diced chicken meat and cook, stirring occasionally, until all of the chicken pieces are white on the outside.

6. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Skim off any excess oil.

7. Add the roux: Carefully pour off any excess oil that may have risen to the top of the roux and discard. Slowly and carefully add the roux to the boiling broth, a little bit at a time, stirring constantly.

Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes. Skim off any excess oil that rises to the surface and discard. Serve with cooked rice. h

Find out where to get your andouille in Beth D’Addono’s “Escapes” piece on page 48.

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Culture

DECEMBER 2020

42 OUR

2020

BOOK RECOMMENDATIONS

// 4 6

HOLIDAYS

IN

THE VEGA

HOLIDAY TRAPPINGS

W

WINTER READING LIST

To Add to Your Bookshelf OUR 2020 BOOK RECOMMENDATIONS, TO GIFT OR TO GRAB

By Chris Turner-Neal Closing out a year of unprecedented time at home, which has in many ways redefined the way we think about escapism, we gladly offer our end-of-year recommendations for locally written and published titles. Embrace new characters, drown in drawings of coastal wilderness, find out what Faulkner’s family was really like, and learn to make the fanciest grilled cheese you’ve ever attempted. Wishing you the best and safest of holidays this year. We’ll see you on the other side.

The Fear of Everything: Stories

I

John McNally, University of Louisiana at Lafayette Press ’m not too proud (or too prudish) to admit that I ordered this book because it was cited as being by the author of The Boy Who Really, Really Wanted to Have Sex: The Memoir of a Fat Kid. This snickering whim served me well; this is one of the best collections of stories I’ve read this year. McNally’s stories skate on the edge of magic realism—the best ones stop just short of the brink, leaving the reader with the same half-startle they might have to a barely-heard noise. The central characters are all lonely and most of them are strange: bereaved, divorced, lost, they run into situations they couldn’t control even if they understood them.

The best and longest story, “The Devil in the Details,”

explores problems of evil and guilt in an old-West setting.

The final scene, a Flannery O’Connor-level shocker, leads one character to muse “…whatever it was that women were made of, it sure wasn’t the rib of man. She had never met a man who would give so much of himself for a woman.” If that doesn’t sell you: a lady gets her hand stuck in a garbage disposal, an old-time gangster inveigles a child into one last heist, and a failed one-night stand turns into an agoraphobic exploration of the root of fear.

Read it with a friend and pick your favorites: you’ll learn something about each other. h

ulpress.org

Cover image courtesy of the University of Louisiana at Lafayette Press.

In Faulkner’s Shadow: A Memoir Lawrence Wells, University Press of Mississippi

F

ew will be surprised that William Faulkner’s family was (and presumably is) as batty as one would expect, as Lawrence Wells learned when he married the Nobel Laureate’s niece.

By page thirteen of this memoir-literary biographyanthropological study, two hot-air balloons have crashed.

As the pages turn, we meet “the family nymphomaniac,” two ghosts, and the worst mother this side of Medea. The result is less a narrative than a collection of weapons-grade eccentricity: every time you find yourself saying “well, every family has one” will be matched by “I can’t believe it—and in front of the children!”

This story couldn’t have been told by a Faulkner— and presumably had to wait until some of the family members were dead. The gigantic personalities and even larger senses of entitlement the family produced crash into each other like stegosauruses—leading to feuds, estrangements, exacerbated alcoholism, and hissed Cover image courtesy of the University Press of Mississippi.

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admonitions from the sidelines: “You can’t tell a Faulkner what to do!” Even Dean, the late wife of the author and the calmest Faulkner—certainly the only nice one— managed to break a Confederate flag over a stranger’s head on her honeymoon. As time goes by, Wells becomes more and more involved in the Faulkner legacy, working for Yoknapatawpha Press and running a Faulkner parody contest. As he’s slowly encased in Faulkneria like a fly sinking into amber, the lunatics keep coming—Barry Hannah steals Dean’s inscribed copy of her uncle’s Big Woods, and Wells has to go get it back—but the narrator maintains his endearingly bemused everyman status. He was in the Faulkner world, but not of it, and reports back like a researcher embedded with an uncontacted tribe. Buy this for a Faulkner fan or for the relative with whom you complain about the rest of your family. h

upress.state.ms.us

The Horn Island Logs of Walter Inglis Anderson

Edited and with an Introduction by Redding S. Sugg, Jr., University Press of Mississippi

I

will not pretend I didn’t order this book in part because I wanted to have it. I intended to honestly review it, and I am, but this was a further weight I wanted to ask my creaking shelves to bear. I’ve been a devoted museum-goer most of my life. I’ve seen the Dead Sea Scrolls and Lucy’s skeleton and the odd Picasso, and very, very few exhibits have ever blown through my soul the way Walter Anderson’s secret studio did. Very little in this world is a must-do or a must-see; tastes differ too wildly, and we’re all trying to fill eighty-odd years as best we can. The Walter Anderson Museum is an exception. Go see it.

Anderson, a scion of an artistic family who would probably have been fairly eccentric even had he not struggled with serious mental illness, loved to go out to empty or minimally uninhabited islands off the Mississippi Gulf Coast to write, draw, paint, and commune with nature. His journals are presented here complete with drawing and forty plates of watercolors. His pen makes frogs seem wise and horseshoe crabs downright winsome; the whole work is a love story to a sometimes-uncelebrated landscape. Every gentle sentence about the rhythms and treasures of nature is a balm after this jittery year. Give this to a nature lover who needs a hug. h

Cover image courtesy of the University Press of Mississippi.

upress.state.ms.us

Jay Ducote’s Louisiana Outdoor Cooking Jay Ducote with Cynthia LeJeune Nobles, LSU Press

A

n early lesson any consumer of cookbooks learns is that there is no singular Bible.

Different chefs, different compilers and writers, even different cuisines have varying strengths—and even Julia Child can stumble, as anyone who has read her dizzyingly complicated boiled egg recipe will understand. Jay Ducote’s new Louisiana Outdoor Cooking does collect good outdoor recipes, but its real strength is as a collection of crowd-pleasers. These are big, satisfying recipes, easy to share and easy to multiply for a big group. Look for especially interesting chapters on game and produce; if you’ve ever been given the fruits of a friend’s hunting trip and found yourself stumped, frog, venison, and rabbit recipes will save the day, while corn maque choux and pear-Havarti grilled cheese sandwiches offer changes of pace. Wisely, Ducote includes recipes for condiments and accompanying drinks and punches, so you can take credit for everything on the table.

Ducote’s coauthor on the book is Cynthia LeJeune Nobles, the mastermind behind The Confederacy of Dunces Cookbook, which I not only reviewed favorably but also vehemently defended from a former roommate who pretended to think it was hers. Buy this for a budding chef—after all, we’ll all be cooking outdoors a bit more for the foreseeable future. h

lsupress.org Cover image courtesy of LSU Press.

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Bookshelf continued . . .

Stone Motel: Memoirs of a Cajun Boy Morris Ardoin, University Press of Mississippi

I

f I were an acquisitions editor, I’d have a big stamp made that just said YES in huge letters, and I’d only use it for books as good as Stone Motel. I laughed, I cried, I felt guilty about my own incomplete memoir—the only thing that marred my enjoyment of this book was bitter professional jealousy of what Ardoin has achieved.

On the most surface level, Stone Motel fits into a genre you recognize: the memoir of an unconventional childhood, not necessarily in the South (but it helps), full of colorful characters and wacky situations. Ardoin’s story of a childhood and adolescence spent at his family’s Eunice motel would be good if that’s as far as he went, but he explores more deeply, writing frankly about his father’s abuse and the balancing act he must put on to try to seem straight until he can figure it all out. I performed the same balancing

act a state west and a generation later, and this is the only time I’ve ever read the story that comes before the comingout story.

Ardoin also describes 1970s Acadiana so vividly your legs will practically stick to the Naugahyde.

He belongs to the first generation of Cajuns to feel bad about not speaking French, the children of those forced into English at school, and one of the treats of the book is to see him thread French more or less thickly through his subjects’ speech. Memere Ortense learns English from the TV; she teaches her beloved grandson sentences, but never fully shares her native language with him.

I could go on and on, but I’d rather spend the time composing the actual fan letter I plan to send Morris Ardoin.

Buy this for everyone. h

upress.state.ms.us

Cover image courtesy of the University Press of Mississippi.

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The Big Door Prize

M. O. Walsh, G. P. Putnam’s Sons

D

eerfield, Louisiana, wakes up to find a machine that tells you your future installed in the grocery store—just swab your cheek, drop in your DNA, and wait for the ping, and you will get a redoubt telling you what you should do (or should have done) with your life. Principals become carpenters, housewives find themselves elevated to princesses, and the costume store finds its shelves picked bare as people dress for the jobs they want. Against this backdrop, personal stories play out: is my marriage as happy as I thought?

When will I have mourned enough? Is vengeance worth it?

You may never have asked yourself, “What if Louisiana had a warmhearted Stephen King analogue,”

but the literary gods have heard your unarticulated prayer. In other hands, the concept of a mysterious machine appearing one day in a small town, giving mysterious instructions, and causing a wave of bizarre behavior could have been a horror tale or a dagger-tongued parody. M.O. Walsh builds his premise into an unusual but successful book—predominantly light small-town farce, but with a real and effective strain of suspense running through its center. Readers of Walsh’s debut novel My Sunshine Away, which I raved about in these pages a few years ago, will trust him with this balance.

Buy this for someone who made a career change, lived in Ville Platte, or is happy just where they are. h

penguinrandomhouse.com

Cover image courtesy of G. P. Putnam’s Sons.

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It is located across the street from the Bogue Falaya River, English Tea Room, the boutiques of Lee Lane, and 2 blocks from the Southern Hotel.

The Lacroix • 210 N. Florida Street, Covington, LA 70433 • 985-373-9118 • www.lacroixcovington.com

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CALL TODAY TO SCHEDULE YOUR HOLIDAY GLO

Happy Holidays!

Call 225-931-2011 to make your appointment today!

Becky Parrish Advanced Skincare at Kiki Culture Salon in Bocage 7640 Old Hammond Highway, Baton Rouge, LA

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E S S AY

Visions of Christmases Past

NORTH ON U.S. 71, CLIMBING NATIVITY SCENE MOUNTAINS

By Ed Cullen

T

his morning, I was social distancing with a cheery chiminea fire in the corner of the patio as news of the presidential election buzzed around like fall bumble bees.

In the long memory of Covid aloneness, I was coursing north on U.S. 71 with my young family in a car that went to the great automobile compost heap years ago. Rest in peace, Vega.

A celestial name for a lowly auto, the Vega ran and ran, though its cylinders wheezed as we mounted the I-I0 Mississippi River Bridge in second gear, our children urging the family car over the Father of Waters.

We were among the working lower income, knew it and didn’t care. We were on our way to the grandparents for Christmas in CENLA. CENLA stands for central Louisiana in a song commissioned in the 1960s by my hometown of Alexandria.

“Alexandria, Alexandria, that’s ah my hometown!”

The Christmases of my childhood stand out sharply in my recollections as anticipated joys, disappointments, and attempts to reconcile myth with reality. There was the Christmas a box I was sure held a shortwave radio receiver turned out to be a box of jelly a customer had given my father.

Another Christmas, my attention would drift from Monsignor Aloysius Olinger’s sermon to an electric train I imagined climbing a mountain to a nativity scene. The mountain was real.

It stood below and to the left of the pulpit, in front of a metal rack of holy candles, at Our Lady of Prompt Succor.

I have no idea what frankincense and myrrh smell like. In my olfactory archive, the Wise Men’s gifts to the baby Jesus smell like burning candle wicks and hot wax inside blood red glass jars.

There were too many holes in the Christmas story for me. Our parish priests based their homilies on the ecclesiastical calendar. In those days, my go-to religious guys were a Baptist minister who had a Saturday afternoon show on KALB-TV, the eyes and ears of CENLA, and Bishop Fulton J. Sheen who once said, “Hearing nuns’ confessions is like being stoned to death with popcorn.”

Sheen was a princely fellow of Shakespearean demeanor who delivered his televised talks— “Life is Worth Living”—from a theater in New York. He was a lovely storyteller who strayed from the party line in such a charming way no one seemed to mind.

He wrote and diagrammed beautifully and fast in a clear, intelligent hand on a

chalkboard.

I wanted to believe the Christmas story. Santa Claus was obviously a fraud. The Son of God I held out hope for, but when I looked at the creche clinging to the side of a giant, forested, papier mâché mountain, I saw not the coming of Our Savior but the potential for a Lionel train layout.

All of this comes flooding back in the chilled air of early November. My fingers are stiff with cold. I remedy this by feeding sticks to the fire pot. The air is redolent of perfumed smoke from the kindling I collect from a friend’s woodworking shop. He is an artist who throws his mistakes into the scrap box for me. Beside the firepot, there is a pile of burnable bits and another pile of the artist’s mistakes that I cannot bring myself to burn. Last winter, I rescued a rhino head carved from a dark African wood. This morning’s fire led to the discovery of what looked like an acorn cap discarded by a squirrel the size of an Irish setter.

On those long ago drives north to grandparents and Christmas, we drove what was a major state highway in Louisiana: narrow, lumpy, undulating U.S. 71. The federal highway doubled as the main streets of Cheneyville, Bunkie, and LeCompte, each decked out in Christmas lights. Bunkie’s

department store windows put on their best faces, but the hardware store always beckoned with its garden tools standing at attention out front and pedal cars on the sidewalk, reminding children that they were not all created equal. Off the main track, there was a hotel where people dined, read newspapers in the lobby, and slept in small rooms between crisp sheets. Further down the road, at Lee’s restaurant in LeCompte, there were color-tinted photos in the men’s room of passengers boarding trains.

My children knew presents awaited them at the grandparents’. They vibrated in the back seat in “safety chairs” a parent today would be jailed for using. Those early family Christmas trips home in a small, yellow car were the best present a person could receive—the gift of time out of time.

My gaze was drawn to the tall fence at the bottom of my small back yard where dark, green trees stood before a heartbreaking azure sky. I checked a piece of kindling to make sure it wasn’t something I wanted to put on the mantel, before tossing it into the firepot.

Merry Christmas. h

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Escapes

DECEMBER 2020

48

FOLLOW THE

M E A T S //

S A U S A G E TO S A U C E

W

Photo courtesy of Louisiana’s River Parishes.

FOOD TOURS

Along the Andouille Trail

AFTER THREE HUNDRED YEARS OF GERMAN CULTURE—AND SAUSAGE—IN THE RIVER PARISHES, A NEW CULINARY BYWAY IS BORN

By Beth D’Addono

A

ndouille has an identity crisis. First of all, it’s not technically a sausage.

You see, sausage by the strict definition requires its pork innards to be finely ground. Andouille’s are, instead, coarsely chopped.

And although its name and origins are French, Andouille’s Louisiana roots are decidedly German: brought to Louisiana’s “Côte des Allemands,” or German Coast, by Rhineland immigrants who arrived in the 1700s to start a new colony east of the Mississippi. Add in that andouille was embraced most heartily by the Acadians, or Cajuns, of Southern Louisiana—who used it to spike everything from gumbo to jambalaya— 48

and the roux of history thickens.

Enter the Andouille Trail, an outgrowth of Louisiana’s authentic culture and cuisine designed to lure locals and visitors into following the siren call of this most toothsome of delectables.

“Next year we are celebrating the three-hundredth anniversary of the Germans coming to Louisiana, so it seemed like the perfect time to put andouille on the map,” said Buddy Boe, Executive Director of the River Parishes Tourist Commission, which markets attractions in St. Charles, St. James, and St. John the Baptist parishes.

More than thirty-four small businesses and restaurants are part of the trail, from small mom and pop

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grocery stores to fine dining restaurants; each stop delivering the chance to buy, taste, or even make andouille. Follow the trail and you’ll find producers with wooden smokehouses making recipes that have been handed down for generations, and restaurants serving up andouille in both traditional and inventive new ways.

As folks are cautiously starting to travel again, the idea is to jump-start tourism’s stalled engine by reminding visitors and locals alike just how much there is to see and do in regions close to New Orleans.

“As a destination, we benefit from being close to the city, a place where people can take plantation and swamp tours as part of a day trip from New

Orleans. But there’s more to discover— and eat—in our region,” said Boe. When you are ready to follow the links to sample all the smoky flavors of the River Parishes Andouille Trail, download the Andouille Brochure, which includes a map of the trail, or see the Andouille Trail page for all the listings along this part of Louisiana’s culinary landscape. There’s even an Andouille Trail Passport—save receipts from five spots along the way, mail or email copies into the tourist commission, and they’ll send you an Andouille Trail wooden spoon perfect for stirring jambalaya or gumbo.

Maitland “Spuddy” Faucheux knows a thing or three about andouille.

Faucheux, who opened his self-named

Stopping for Sausage

Photo by Christina Leo

Spuddy’s Cajun Foods & Cooking Experience 2566 Hwy 20 Vacherie All photos below by Jason Vowell

Cox’s Meat Market 1162 Hwy. 44 Reserve

Tod’s Specialty Meats 2180 S. Albert St. Lutcher

Escapes delivered daily follow us on

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Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse Restaurant 769 5th St. LaPlace

Jacob’s World Famous Andouille 505 W. Airline Hwy. LaPlace // D E C 2 0

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Cajun restaurant in Vacherie in 1999, makes andouille and other specialty meats, a skill taught by his building’s former owner, Antoine “Peanut” Folse and his friend and former cook Ruby Charles, who prepared plate lunches for Faucheux when he first bought the business.

Business fell off about a decade ago with the opening of a bridge that diverted sixty percent of the road traffic away from his front door. “It was a blessing in a way, since I was taking care of my dad, who had Alzheimer’s.” His father passed in 2019.

Due to the pandemic, Spuddy’s isn’t open as a restaurant these days. Instead Faucheux’s pivot is to sell his handcrafted meats and sausages, and also offer the three-hour Cajun Cooking Experience to visitors. A licensed tour guide with a rich knowledge of Louisiana history and lore, Faucheux delivers a colorful hands-on cooking experience in the restaurant kitchen, culminating in a collaborative meal of andouille, gumbo, and jambalaya.

Priced at $125 per person, or $240 per couple, the experience is a terrific way to kick off a trip along the andouille trail.

“To get the good product you have

Photo courtesy of Louisiana’s River Parishes.

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Sunday December 13 • 6:30PM

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Thursday, December 31 • 7PM

www.lpb.org 50

to come to where it started,” said Faucheux, whose nickname speaks to the year he was born, 1957, the same year the Russians launched the Sputnik, which morphed into Spuddy. “The Germans were the sausage makers,” he said. “When they would do a boucherie, the killing of the hog, they’d chop up all the lean bits of meat and stuff it into a casing by hand. Then they’d give that andouille a heavy, heavy smoke to preserve it. Then they’d just hang it off the porch and cut a piece off when they felt like it.”

Now the andouille you’ll taste along the trail has almost nothing in common with what you find processed for $3.99 a pound in the supermarket, said the proud maker. “There’s no fillers, nothing fancy, no artificial flavors…

You taste and smell the smoke and the natural pork.”

A few of the other stops along the trail include Zorachristina Catering and Cafe in LaPlace, a down-home comfort food restaurant opened by Monique McGee-Duronslet in 2015. Besides some excellent gumbo, try her hash browns: crispy, hot and studded with bits of andouille.

For a fine dining experience, the Oak

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Alley Plantation and Inn incorporates andouille into a menu of Creole and Southern fare, including a traditional gumbo made with chicken, smoked sausage, and locally-smoked andouille sausage over rice. Stop along the way to stock up on smoky goodness at familyowned shops like B&C Seafood Market in Vacherie, Garyville General Store, and Majoria’s Grocery Store in Boutte.

All of these makers guard their own particular recipe, so tasting one link of andouille is certainly not tasting them all. From the exact seasonings added, to the chunks of meat, to the length of smoking time, to the kind of wood used in the smoker, all of these variables create a particular flavor that inspires pride of place. With at least thirty-four andouille purveyors to discover, the German Coast delivers an authentic link to Louisiana history. h

Visit andouilletrail.com for the complete Andouille Trail map. And once you get your sausage setup, try your hand at a chicken and andouille gumbo—recipe on page 41.

Photo courtesy of Louisiana’s River Parishes.

di scover rea l flavor

Mi nu te s f ro m New Or leans, yet wo rld s away.

Find your way along the Andouille Trail, the only place you can getBUY anIT authentic taste of this local delicacy. I-10 Out here, makers put their own stamp on seasonings, ensuring the finished product is as distinct as the

Visit AndouilleTrail.com to learn the small-town smokehouse where it’s MAKE IT BUY IT you’re MAKE IT TASTE IT historyTASTE behind our andouille. made. While here,IT discover eye-opening architecture and exciting I-55 Have it shipped to11 your doorstep or, outdoor experiences. Come see why even better, plan a trip to ours for a Louisiana’s River Parishes should be taste of the original. the centerpiece of your next vacation.

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LARiverParishes.com

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Father of Waters

PHILIP GOULD DOCUMENTS LOUISIANA’S CONNECTIVE TISSUES IN HIS “BRIDGING THE MISSISSIPPI” SERIES

By Alexandra Kennon

W

The Hale Boggs Memorial Bridge in Destrehan, Louisiana at dawn. Photo courtesy of Philip Gould.

ithout any prior knowledge of Louisiana culture beyond Dr. John’s music and “maybe Mardi Gras,” in 1974 Massachusettsborn, Bay Area-raised-and-educated twenty-three-yearold photojournalism graduate Philip Gould accepted a position as a photographer for The Daily Iberian from across the country, and suddenly found himself in the heart of Acadiana.

His first Saturday night in New Iberia, a reporter Gould worked with took him to an old-time Cajun dance hall called the Blue Moon Club. There, he received his first taste of the Cajun joie de vivre that continues to inspire his work decades later. “I had never seen anything like that in my life.” Gould marveled at the memory of the accordion player, Aldus Mouton, speaking between songs in rapid-fire Cajun French, and even more—of all the couples dancing a one-step waltz.

“It’s like they latch onto each other, and then they move around the dance floor in lock step. And I just remember seeing this scene of all these people doing this, and their heads were bobbing, and it’s like the tops of their heads created this sort of gentle ocean wave,” Gould said.

“That’s an image that has always stuck with me.”

Gould describes his personal discovery of the world of Louisiana as something he “sort of stumbled into” by taking that job at the New Iberia newspaper. He arrived in Acadiana when traditional Cajun life was still “very much as it had been,” and witnessed firsthand its evolution during the ensuing decades. He, too, evolved 54

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during that time from a young West Coast transplant working his first full-time photography job to one of the most prolific and prominent documentarians of life in Louisiana. Keen to discover and chronicle places and cultures, he has yet to lack material in his marshy, adoptive home state, even all these years later.

“Louisiana is an incredibly generous photographic subject. It just keeps on giving,” Gould said reverently.

“And I’m sure other states are as well, but I really feel it here. Every time I turn around, I see things differently.”

One of the features that has captured Gould’s interest—and in turn, his lens—is the very landmark that most powerfully connects Louisiana to the rest of the country: the Mississippi River, and more specifically, its many diverse bridges. This fascination with the “Father of Waters” (which is the English translation of the Native American phrase “misi¬-ziibi”) and the engineering feats that allow us to cross it manifested in Gould’s Bridging the Mississippi project and accompanying book, published in April 2020 by LSU Press. In the collection of photographs spanning the years 2016 to 2018, Gould documents bridges from the Crescent City Connection in New Orleans all the way up to the river’s headwaters in Lake Itasca, Minnesota.

“The river is this 2,300-mile constant that is always there,” Gould said, also noting the river’s variance, from our more narrow spans in Louisiana to the channels and lakes that spread to seventy-five miles wide in places further north.

Alongside seventy-five of the Mississippi’s over

one-hundred-thirty overpasses, Gould also captures moments of connection between the river and those who interact with it. “The humanity was the most enjoyable part, because I never saw these photographs of these folks coming,” Gould explained. “I mean, you can’t plan on this sort of thing. This just happens in front of you and you just have to be there with your camera, and some sort of sense of ready to photograph it.” Gould’s readiness and fortune of being in the “right place, right time” (to modify the iconic Dr. John lyric) resulted in photographs featuring everyone from recreational kayakers, to wedding partiers, to boat captains, to those who seek the water as a place of prayer.

“I ran into this fellow down in New Orleans when I was photographing the front of the Crescent City Connection … and he’s got his hands up in prayer. I was totally intrigued by that; I never saw that coming.

He said ‘I align myself with the bridges to align myself to God.’ And I’m thinking, ‘You can’t argue with that.

That’s the most wonderful sense of serendipity.’” h

Art Rocks will run an accompanying piece on Philip Gould’s book on Friday, December 18.

See Philip Gould’s Bridging the Mississippi exhibition currently at LeMieux Gallery in New Orleans until December 23, 2020, The Hilliard Museum in Lafayette until April 3, 2021, and at philipgould.com.

Or, purchase the book as a holiday gift for a loved one or yourself from LSU Press.

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