A Glimpse of America’s Soul “MODERN DAY HUCK FINN” STOPS IN LOUISIANA
people and families and communities really step up, and I’ve been able to witness a lot of that.” After completing the first of three “Acts” mapping his path—a 1,111 mile upstream and uphill journey up the Columbia, Snake, and Fork rivers to MacDonald Pass in Montana, completed in ninety-seven days—Moore headed 3,249 miles down the Missouri and the Mississippi, pointing straight towards our own Big Easy. And in mid-December, so close to the end, he made a stop in the Red Stick. Over the course of five days, he made the obligatory stops: beers in a Spanish Town backyard, three meals at Poor Boy Neal Moore in his home sweet home, his trusty canoe. Photo by Patrick Tenny. Lloyds, breakfast at Louie’s. And hen the Down from his Hilton room downtown, he the Mississippi spent most evenings looking out at the author and river, which he’s come to know quite adventurer Neal well. And as an outsider, he observed Moore set out for the second great that Baton Rougeans know her too: expedition of his lifetime in February “The residents of Baton Rouge have of 2020, he had no idea that his two- relationships, with this river and year, 7,500-mile documentarian with nature, and with each other— trek by canoe would wind up neighbors in Spanish Town who navigating a nation mid-pandemic. are friends and actually know each The original plan was to exercise slow other—you just don’t see that in lots of journalism while covering the distance larger cities.” Just before our press date, Moore of twenty-two rivers and twenty-two states—from Astoria, Oregon to New told me this on his cell phone, York City—all in order to “come face windblown on an island in Old Man to face with America’s soul.” “The idea River and shooting for New Orleans, was to go, from coast to coast, within where he would complete Act II and two years—leading into the national spend the holidays, mostly alone. elections and the aftermath thereof,” “But I’m very excited about it, this said Moore. “What I’m trying to do solitary experience of New Orleans,” is to look for positive stories of what he said. “I’ve learned that traveling solo, you’re open. You’re more open unites us as a country.” And while the onslaught of the to observations, to potential new COVID-19 pandemic has complicated friendships, to stepping out of your some logistical matters of Moore’s comfort zone, seeing things from a trip—and in many ways made it more unique perspective.” —Jordan LaHaye Fontenot solitary—he admits to the value of
E M. Dine in our courtyard, stroll the gardens, and enjoy croquet or fishing!
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being in a position to document this particular America, this particular moment in history. “If anything, this has enhanced the storytelling,” he said. “It’s during hard times when
Keep up with Moore’s journey at 22rivers.com or follow him on Instagram at @riverjournalist.
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