Radisson Blu Short Breaks by Creative Service Desk

FORGET THE AGENDA: This issue brings you a shortlist of surprises from some of our favourite haunts

HOTSPOT ISTANBUL World wonders and penthouse partying in Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new mecca for night owls

PARIS IN PERSON Insider secrets from star photographer/art director spouses Kristian and Peggy Schuller

LORDING IT UP IN IRELAND

SHORT BREAKS

THE INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE BY RADISSON BLU

take a short break and get inspired

Rural high life on a country estate in County Cavan

NEW ROMANTIC ITALY

NAME YOUR

DESIRE

Experience Dubai, the new global hub of international cuisine

Tour Rome and Tuscany in a vintage sports car with your loved one

THE NORDIC

NEXT GENERATION

Ground breaking design and avant-garde eating in Scandinavia

Escape.

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GET INSPIRED!

YOU ARE HERE 04

003

CAPITAL OF MUSIC BERLIN

BERLIN

SOUNDTRACK OF A CITY Germany’s capital plays to an independent tune

What are the sounds of Berlin? What are the tastes of Dubai? Where are the most romantic spots in Rome? For you we have travelled the high roads and the back streets to pick out the highlights and seek out the best-kept secrets. We have encouraged local insiders such as Danish gallerist Mikael Andersen and Turkish top designers Autoban to share their city’s little-known gems – be it a perfect picnic spot or the best place to watch the sunset. Berlin DJ. Milena Fessmann created for us an exclusive playlist of the best of Berlin’s contemporary pop music, star photographer Kristian Schuller gives us his own very personal private tour of Paris and Maître de Cuisine Christophe Broutin puts together a exclusive brunch menu for an unforgettable morning in Nice. There are also feature articles on how to enjoy a romantic road trip through Italy and the special nature of Scandinavian design alongside quirky facts, shopping tips and culinary delights and suggestions for how to spend the perfect day in each location.

MUST

SEES

and no timetables

Forget the agenda: SHORT BREAKS brings you an unapologetically subjective shortlist of the best of Europe’s cities and beyond. We have thought about the things one really needs to breathe the true spirit of a city: experiences and places that will leave space for your own personal voyage of discovery. There are no ‘must-sees’ and no timetables. We make each unique location feel like a home from home. Take a short break with SHORT BREAKS and get inspired.

MADRID

THE FINE ART CAPITAL Old masters meet avant-garde architecture

SCANDINAVIA

DUBAI

THE NORDIC

RESHAPING THE NORDIC IDENTITY Great design, fabulous landscapes and the world’s best restaurant

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE An oasis of 1001 culinary desires

HANSEATIC CITIES

LÜBECK, RIGA & KRAKOW The lively cultures of once mighty merchant ports

CAVAN

A FINE COUNTRY BREAK Hone your handicap and fine-tune your fly-fishing in Ireland

ITALY

ROMANTIC ROAD TRIP From Vespas in Rome to Ferraris on the Mille Miglia

NICE VS. CAPE TOWN

BATTLE OF THE BRUNCHES From two seaside Chefs de Cuisine

DURHAM

ESSENTIALLY ENGLISH Explore the timeless charm of a beautiful city

ISTANBUL

MECCA FOR NIGHT OWLS Europe’s new top hotspot

PARIS

INSIDER EXCLUSIVE Kristian & Peggy Schuller show us their home city

GOOD TO KNOW Radisson Blu hotel services at a glance

GENERATION

WAKING UP IN

NICE CAPE TOWN

36 PARIS

PERSON IN

GET INSIDE

The art of short break travel is to find the perfect, well-situated base from which to get under the skin of a place. It is about arriving and becoming part of the real Rome, the real Krakow or the real Helsinki as well as discovering the countryside of Ireland, Italy or Sweden without packing in a punishing schedule. Don’t just head for the obvious, the main drag, the most famous restaurant or the cathedral, take time to sample the street markets, little boutiques, or visit local makers and growers as well as enjoying the hottest contemporary eateries and watering holes.

Photography: Title: Westend61 (1), Siddharth Siva (2), Ditte Isager (3) | This Page: spreephoto.de (1), Jeppe Gudmundsen-Holmgreen (2), J. Konrad Schmidt (3); Illustration: Peggy Schuller

very city has its own stories, every landscape its own distinct scents, colours and contours, every region its specialities. For you we have visited the hotspots in pulsating metropolitan giants such as Berlin, Istanbul or Paris as well as charming, less mainstream treasures such as Durham, Riga or Lübeck and show you the special charms they too have to offer.

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short breaks

yOU Are Here:

BErlin / MADriD / SCAnDinAViA / DuBAi / HAnSEATiC CiTiES / CAVAn / iTAly Tour / niCE VS. CAPE ToWn / DurHAM / iSTAnBul / PAriS

MUSIChas no

BOUNDARIES

BERLIN in

SEEn THE WAll, SCoPED THE ArCHiTECTurE AnD TourED THE GAllEriES? FroM ClASSiCAl ConCErTS To HEDoniSTiC HoTSPoTS, CABArET To inDiE, TECHno To TAnGo, BErlin iS rEWriTinG iTS oWn SounDTrACK EVEry SinGlE DAy.

WHY I LOVE BERLIN nAyOn HAn oriGinAlly FroM KorEA, THiS 33 yEAr olD “nEu BErlinErin” HAS liVED in BErlin For 10 yEArS. SHE’S A CElliST in THE FAMouS orCHESTrA AT THE KonZErTHAuS AT GEnDArMEnMArKT.

The city inspires me! it is pulsating with life and full of creative people from all over the world.

Berlin is always reinventing itself – it has an open, cosmopolitan and colourful mix.

i love looking at the small galleries in Mitte, walking in the Tiergarten and picnicking in the Weinbergspark.

i love the lakes around the city – especially the Müggelsee in the summer.

it has great cafés! My favourite is the Café Bonanza on oderberger Straße near the Mauerpark in Prenzlauer Berg.

enJOy THe ClASSiC SOUnDS OF berlin:

21/08/2011: WAlDBÜHnEnKonZErT with Daniel Barenboim and the WestEastern Divan orchestra 02/10/2011: ECHo ClASSiC AWArD at the Konzerthaus 17/11/2011: GolDBErG VAriATionEn with Martin Stadtfeld at Philharmonie 06/01/2012: GuSTAV MAHlEr'S SyMPHony no. 3 directed by ivan Fischer at the Konzerthaus

or years Berlin has re velled in its reputation as a creative melting pot. Since the fall of the Wall new Berliners have moved here from every corner of the world drawn by the excitement of change and adventure, free spirit and che ap rents. Usually it is the city’s art scene that tends to get the publicity: hundreds of independent art galle ries show the works of a bewilde ring array of local and international artists and provide a fascinating counterpoint to the collections of the equally impressive state mu seums. But artists are not the only creatives to make themselves at home in Berlin. Just as impressive and perhaps even more of an at traction for visitors to this city is the stupendous choice of live music to listen to: From fans of cabaret to dubstep aficionados; Mendelssohn maniacs to Stockhausen specialists; Coltrane cool cats to Techno fiends, Berlin has something to offer just about every musical taste. The Berliner Staatsoper, currently residing in the impressive Schiller Theatre building whilst their buil ding is renovated, has an impressi ve repertoire of great operas from Wagner to Verdi not to mention a superb ballet ensemble under the leadership of Vladimir Malakhov. If Berlin means „Cabaret” to you, then try taking in a show at Cha

BeRlin Vs. paRis

With an area of 892 sq. km, Berlin is nine times the size of Paris.

mäleon in the Hackesche Höfe or if you are feeling risqué there's the Kleine Nachtrevue for a spicier, burlesque experience (www.kleine nachtrevue.de). Big stage musical fans might prefer the Theater am Potsdamer Platz. Berliners love to dance and a big fa vourite with young and old, hip and square is the Clärchen's Ballhaus in Mitte, a glorious old dance hall with wooden floors that first opened in 1913. You can feast here on traditi onal German food or pizza before picking your partner for the next waltz, tango or foxtrot. There are classes and dancing every evening from 10pm and the dress code is – typical Berlin – anything from tail coat to trainers. There is plenty of music al fresco in Berlin, the buskers on the U and S Bahn range from concert violinists via Rumanian brass ensembles to backpacking guitar players. In the Mauerpark in Prenzlauer Berg on Sunday afternoons there is a – not strictly official – karaoke event that draws huge crowds. Some of the bigname concerts at the Waldbüh ne – a huge, openair amphitheatre near the Olympic stadium desi gned by Albert Speer –with stars such as the Rolling Stones, Prince or Eric Clapton are legendary. The Berlin Philharmonic play a con cert here each summer which it is (P. 06) booked out weeks ahead.

005

MOABIT

beST ClUbS & COnCerT VenUeS

For classic (and architecture) fans, a visit to the PHilHArMoniE 1 (www.berliner philharmoniker.de) is a must, but the KonZErTHAuS AM GEnDArMEnMArKT 2 has an equally tempting programme. The DEuTSCHE oPEr 3 (www.deutsche operberlin.de) and the STAATSoPEr 4 will arouse opera buff appetites, or try the smaller nEuKöllnEr oPEr 5 (www.neukoellner oper.de) for new opera and musical performances of surprisingly high calibre. Clubbers will happily stand in line for the legendary BErGHAin 6 , WEEKEnD 7 or CooKiES 8 clubs or chill at the CluB DEr ViSionärE 9 on the waterfront in the summer. Jazz fans are unlikely to be disappointed at A-TrAnE 10 or B-FlAT 11 , or they can come to one of the regular Jazz festivals in the Autumn: the classic JAZZFEST BErlin (www. berlinerfestspiele.de), the FrinGE JAZZ FESTiVAl or the freerooted ToTAl MuSiC MEETinG in early november. Check local listings for programmes and addresses.

MITTE

DEUTSCHE OPER

WEEK

CHARLOTTENBURG

B-Flat

END

TIERGARTEN

A-TRANE

PHILHARMONIE

Radisson Blu

KREUZBERG

White tRash 7

FRIEDRICHSHAIN

BERGHAIN lido ConCeRt hall

CaFé m

SCHÖNEBERG

NEUKÖLLNER

TEMPELHOF

OPER 5

NEUKÖLLN

DiSCOVer berlin by bOAT Or bUS

newcomers may be suprised to hear that Berlin has over 180 km of navigable water ways within the city limits. A boat trip is a great way to see the historical heart of the city or visit the WAnnSEE villa district. Ask your concierge about chartering your own private cruise with a picnic or dinner. Alternatively take the bus number 100 from any stop along its route from BAHnHoF Zoo to TiErGArTEn and MiTTE for 2.30 Euro per person and you will pass many of the major sights.

CluB deR VisionäRe

WILLMERSDORF

staatsopeR

KonzeRthaus am GendaRmenmaRKt

PRENZLAUER BERG

beST MUSeUMS & PriVATe COlleCTiOnS

Berlin’s answer to the Saatchis, Christian and Karen BoroS completely refurbished a 1942 bunker in Mitte to house their amazing contemporary art collection and their pent house apartment. Visits are by appointment only – book well in advance (reinhardt str. 20, +49 30275 94065). Another private contem porary art collection in Mitte well worth visiting is that of Erika HoFFMAnn in her enormous penthouse apartment in the SophieGipsHöfe, but again, only by appointment (Sophienstr. 21, +49 30 284 9921). There is easier access to the HAMBurGEr BAHnHoF gallery which has a good collection of Joseph Beuys, Anselm Kiefer and Andy Warhol. Don’t forget to check out the FliCK CollECTion in the annex and the row of small independent galleries such as JArMuSCHEK AnD PArTnEr behind the museum. Dada fans should go and see the fine collection in the BErliniSCHE GAllEry and those interested in everyday 20th century design will enjoy a trip to the charming MuSEuM DEr DinGE (Museum of Things) or the BAuHAuS ArCHiV. Ask your concierge for further details.

hoW to Get theRe Currently Berlin has two international airports: TEGEl (TXl) and SCHoEnEFElD (SXF). For information check MolECulE MAn SCulPTurE

BoroS ArT CollECTion

www.berlin-airport.de

WheRe to stay rADiSSOn blU HOTel, berlin

rADiSSon Blu ATriuM Photography: spreephoto.de (1), noshe (2)

Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 3 D-10178 Berlin +49 (0)30 238280 Discover other Radisson Blu Hotels in Germany: radissonblu.com/hotels/germany

berlin

A great Mitte base, within walking distance of the main sights, galleries and shopping. Contains the world’s largest cylindrical aquarium!

short breaks

BErlin / MADriD / SCAnDinAViA / DuBAi / HAnSEATiC CiTiES / CAVAn / iTAly Tour / niCE VS. CAPE ToWn / DurHAM / iSTAnBul / PAriS

moRe BeRlin

D nMAn MElo Ail in T K C o r C SA bA THe C

r bArinK A WATEr

yOU Are Here:

A eA KF in T " AS PA W nO T rK E i l A n 'S BE " rG S-

006

CABArET directed by Bob Fosse

SEE TH ES nenVie CHeUrT THEn C el oF AnD CA FEE KE AT bArCO Mi’S

bOOKS TO reAD BErlin BluES by Sven regener

n lU

AT rE TiM r S ru TAur AUe’S D ST i Du AnT rA SS TSCH on E KE

Dinner

The days of the Love Parades in Berlin with millions of techno fans raving through the city may be over, but there is still the Kar neval der Kulturen street festival with its world music flair in June or one of the several jazz festivals.

A real motley mix of guests in high spirits partying late into the night. On a smaller scale, if you go to the Museum Island to take in one of the magnificent exhibitions the re (recommended: the Ishtar gate at the Pergamon Museum or the Dangolsheim Madonna in the Bode Museum) then you may be lucky enough to come across the soprano sax player who busks on the Mon bijou bridge in the early mornings. Standing on the bridge watching the early sun behind the Dome and the TV tower, listening to him play can make you realise what a very spe cial city Berlin can be.

e AT TH AFÉ" on C "Tele ToWEr V THE T

ArT

V B iSi n EA T T T EF uT H M HE Er iFu E T U Se ne iT l U Ue i AT M S

one peRFeCt day in BeRlin

FilM TO WATCH

HiSTOry

BErlin AlEXAnDErPlATZ by Alfred Döblin

lOCAl liSTinGS MAGAZineS

old Vs. neW

TiP BErlin www.tipberlin.de ZiTTy BErlin www.zitty.de Twitter: @ZittyTipps

THe OlD …

The BErlinEr PHilHArMoniE is one of the world’s greatest classical concert venues, which has an orchestra (under the baton of Simon rattle) to match. Designed in a revolutionary round form with the orchestra at the centre, by local architect Hans Scharoun for Herbert von Karajan, it caused a sensation when it first opened its doors in 1963. its acoustics are just perfect for Mahler.

EXBErlinEr www.exberliner.de (in English)

berlin MUSiC DiGiTAl in BErlin www.digitalinberlin.de (network for music lovers reporting in all spheres of Berlin subculture music)

FaCts and FiGuRes

… AnD THe neW

There are some people who come to Berlin for the weekend and don’t bother to book into a hotel because they don’t intend to sleep – at all. BErGHAin is the temple at which all such hardcore hedonists come to worship. A disused power station venue, pounding beats, sweating bodies, no holds barred and no cameras allowed, have made this notorious nightclub world famous.

adVentuRe BReaKs & thRills For something completely different why not try the ultimate boys toys adventure: driving a vintage tank for the day in Brandenburg (www.panzerkutscher.de), a round of indoor ultraviolet mini golf in Görlitzer Park (www.indoorminigolfberlin. de), or a tour of the city’s wartime bunker labyrinths. (www.berlinerunterwelten.de)

Berlin is the most multicultural city in Germany. its 3.4 million inhabitants include over 470,000 residents with foreign passports.

the loCal linGo The distinctive Berlin dialect is derived from a mixture of Huguenot influence and yiddish. They say ‘icke’ instead of ich, ‘wat?’ instead of ‘was?’ (‘what?’) and use softened ‘G’ sounds ‘yeburtstach’ instead of ‘Geburtstag’ ('birthday') . it takes some getting used to for those that think they know what German should sound like – but it is nowhere near as difficult to under stand as the Swabian dialect. Don’t be surprised by gruff first impressions, Berliners are big softies at heart. Photography: spreephoto.de (1), Archiv Berliner Philharmoniker (2), Berliner unterwelten e.V. / Dietmar Arnold (4)

007 BErlin

INTERVIEW eVenT CAlEnDAr January Fashion Week, Bread & Butter.

ilena Fessmann is not only one of the city’s best lo ved DJanes with a regular Tuesday nightslot at the local radio sta tion Radio Eins (www.radioeins. de), she is also a respected film music consultant and has hel ped devise the soundtracks for over 100 films including those by great german directors such as Wim Wenders and Fatih Akin. For SHORT BREAKS she divulges her insider tips for contemporary mu sic lovers and shares her favourite tracks in an exclusive playlist:

high spirits partying wild, long and late into the night. WHiCH ClUbS AnD VenUeS WOUlD yOU reCOMMenD TO ViSiTOrS?

MilenA’S berlin PlAyliST blOC PArTy ‘Kreuzberg’ iDeAl ‘Berlin’ SeeeD ‘Ding’

MiSS PlATinUM

‘Come Marry Me’

iF yOU Were COMPilinG A SOUnDTrACK THAT DeFineS THe berlin MUSiC SCene WHO WOUlD yOU inClUDe?

PAUl KAlKbrenner

MilenA FeSSMAnn Peter Fox and See

Greie GUT FrAKTiOn

ed on the one hand, and Electronic music on the other. Like Ellen Allien, Bpitch Control, Stefan Betke from Pole, and perhaps even Tocotronic, although they were originally a Hamburg band, just about everybo dy lives in Berlin these days. iF berlin Were A SOnG WHAT WOUlD iT be? MF ‘Berlin’ by Ideal.

‘Plätschern’

bODi bill ‘Willem’

‘Wir Bauen eine neue Stadt’ GeT Well SOOn

‘Born Slippy (nuxx)’ CHiKinKi ‘Sunrise’ CHriSTiAne röSinGer

‘Berlin’

erObiqUe & JAqUeS PAlMinGer

‘november in Berlin’

HeiDe brüHl ‘Berlin’ KAnTe

‘Die Stadt verwischt ihre Spuren’ JA PAniK ‘nevermind’

WHAT inGreDienTS DO yOU neeD FOr A reAlly GOOD berlin PArTy? MF

A real motley mix of guests in

June Fete de la Musique, DMy Design Festival July Klassiktage Berliner Schlösser August young Euro Classic, Tanz im August September Musikfest Berlin, Berlin Music Week, Berlin Marathon October Qubique Furniture Fair november JazzFest Berlin Dezember Christmas markets

Only in berlin

MF The legendary Café M

MilenA FeSSMAnn rADio EinS DJAnE

WWW.CineSOnG.De

12 (Goltz straße 33, Schöneberg), the Lido Con cert Hall 13 (Cuvrystr. 7, Kreuzberg), White Trash 14 (Schönhauser Allee 6, Mitte), Berghain (AmWriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain). Go for delicious food, drinks and music at Drei Schwestern (Mariannenpl. 2) or Van Doren Bar (Blücherstr. 17) both in Kreuzberg.

May Pfingsttage at the Philharmonie and the ope ra, Karneval der Kulturen

WHAT iS A reAl nO-GO On A berlin niGHT OUT?

Turning up at a venue at 8pm when it doesn’t open until mid night! MF

WHen in berlin WHAT’S AVOiD AnD WHAT SHOUlD yOU DO inSTeAD? MF You don’t just have to follow the

crowds in Mitte and go where eve rybody else goes. Be a bit brave as well and head off the beaten track – explore the little side streets. There are so many nice little shops in Berlin that are not on Oranien burgerstrasse. Kreuzberg too has lots of lovely places tucked away, not just the ones everyone knows on Bergmannstrasse. The top of the Kreuzberg [park], for examp le, is one of my favourite places to hang out.

relAX: liQuiDroM Soak in the saltwater pool in the spa under the Tempodrom to the soothing sounds of the underwater music system and constantly changing light installations. eAT: linDEMAnn’S FriSCHEPArADiES Germany's largest delica tessen and purveyor of fine foods, lindemann’s, sup plies most of the city’s top restaurants and ambitious hobby chefs alike. At lunchtime you can sample delicacies cooked by the chef of their own inhouse bistro. bUy lOCAl: Buy a pair of sunglasses or specs from Berlinbased MyKiTA, source independent German and international magazines at Do you rEAD ME?!, have a concept store splash out in QuArTiEr 206 or at THE CornEr, or choose a handmade perfume from FrAu ToniS.

macbas / photocase.com

loCAl rESiDEnT MilEnA FESSMAnn SHoWS THAT BErlin liFE iS All ABouT THE MiX: FilM or MuSiC, WorK or PlAy, ConSulTAnT or DJAnE – THE CrEATiVE VAriETy CoMES FroM THE CroSSoVErS.

April Gallery Weekend

MArKeTS: Berlin has an eclectic history and this is reflected well in the stran ge collection of antiques and objects to be found in the city’s flea markets – from DDr memorabilia to Prussian furniture or Bau haus design classics. Try STrASSE DES 17. Juni market at weekends for an tiques and MAuErPArK on Sundays for a lively and trashier selection. The ka raoke event in the park in the afternoon here is well worth the experience.

SPOrTS & ACTiViTieS:

Joggers will enjoy the riverside Spree route near the reichstag, which is lovely and empty in the early morning. Swim in the summer at the ArEnA BADESCHiFF – a barge converted into a pool on the river – or take in Berlin beach culture at the STrAnDBAD WAnnSEE. Spa fans may like a facial at SuSAnnE KAuFMAnn or the ono SPA.

Miss X / photocase.com

we ArE THE night

March MaerzMusik (Con temporary Music Festival)

restaurants / bars: Best schnitzel: Although not strictly a Berlin speciality, you can get a great schnitzel at THE BorCHArDTS BrASSEriE or the regional Austri an restaurant Alpenstück. Best cake: BArCoMiS new york cheesecake is a must on a Mitte shopping tour, or try a more tradi tional piece of Kuchen at the CAFé EinSTEin in Kurfürstenstrasse. Best beverage: A Moscow Mule at BAr TAuSEnD or a late night Mojito on the roof terrace at WEEKEnD. Best chocolate: The tradi tional EriCH HAMAnn bitter chocolate, or a goat’s milk creation from new lo cal chocolatiers inT’VElD who also offer cookery courses.

berlin

February international Film Festival Berlinale, Transmediale

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short breaks

YOU ARE HERE: BerliN /

MAdrid / SCANdiNAViA / duBAi / hANSeAtiC CitieS / CAVAN / itAly tour / NiCe VS. CAPe toWN / durhAM / iStANBul / PAriS

MADRID

THE FINE ART

CAPITAL with a contemporary touch

S REA C An KF Ch hu GI AS o rr nÉ t Co o S lA S C te oN

M LA

S pAtA g N ASA At C ight lo N l l A

TASTE, FEEL, ENJOY, RELAX ...

oNe PerFeCt day IN MadrId

S pA tASAn MIGUEL

At MARKEt oNly freSh ProduCtS

R YO MA A de AZ t pL eS llo " B di At e eS th oCA MAr "B lA CA

tA!

AFtERnOOn

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At C L dre UB 31 S diNN S uP fo r er

DInnER

O tIR RE A EL At for l or At go rol Bo St Nt A re

SOMETHING SPECIAL Chocolate con churros the favourite vice of the Madrileños is eating delicate, deep-fried crispy batter sticks dipped in cups of steaming, thick, liquid chocolate. Consuming these sinfully delicious chocolate con churros at Chocolateria SAN giNÉS at all hours of the day or night has been an established tradition since 1894.

San Ginés Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5. +34 913 656 54 46

jorgedasi / Shutterstock.com

froM dAriNg ArChiteCture to AVANt-gArde exPreSSioN, NeW erA MAdrid hAS eMBrACed the ArtS iN All their VAriety ANd WoVeN theM iNto itS hiStoriC fABriC With eNViABle eASe.

he old and the new mingle and rub shoulders with ease in Madrid and this is what helps give the city such depth. All the big museums tend to be traditional buildings with wings, conversions and additions designed by contemporary architects; old masters are held in as high esteem as great contemporaries; old music and dance forms such as Flamenco are enjoyed by young and old alike; traditional festivals and pageants mix easily with fairs celebrating new music, theatre, or performance. The public life culture of the city is almost overwhelming in its richness and variety. With the death of Franco in 1975, Spain began a process of democratisation that has allowed it to flower once again. This is particularly noticeable in Madrid, where the open-hearted and open-minded attitudes of the Madrileños and Madrileñas, combined with a rich cultural heritage, have resulted in a city that is both a major player on the world Arts stage and a real pleasure to visit.

Madrid is so full of art and museums that it will take more than one visit to appreciate them all in full, but here are the four principal collections, conveniently grouped together next to the Retiro park. the MuSeo NACioNAl del PrAdo, housed in a neo-classical building from 1785, is one of the world’s greatest fine art museums. Here you will find masterpieces by Spanish greats such as Diego de Velázquez, El Greco and Francisco de Goya as well as works by Titian, Rubens and Breugel. The building was extended and renovated in 2007 by the Spanish architect Rafael Moneo.

WHY I LOVE MADRID BY RUBÉn MAnRIQUE DÍAZ Art editor of leAdiNg fAShioN ANd deSigN MAgAziNe Neo2

WHY DO YOU LOvE MADRID? RM What i love about Madrid is that everybody is made welcome here and no one need feel like an outsider. i also love the early evening light in the Spring and Autumn. WHAt IS tHE ESSEnCE OF tHE CItY? RM Madrid is very open and friendly, but it is also very hectic. the cultural and artistic scenes are very broad and varied. WHERE IS YOUR SpECIAL pLACE? RM i shouldn’t really tell you because it is my secret place, but i love to watch the sunset across Madrid at the Cerro del tío Pío park in the Vallecas district.

FaCtS & FIgUreS Madrid enjoys on average 299 days of sun per year – which means it is one of the sunniest cities in europe.

January CABAlgAtA de loS reyeS MAgoS Procession celebrating the arrival of the three Magi

Eat Negro de ANgloNA Segovia Street, 13. +34 913 66 37 53 www.negrodeanglona.com

February ArCo one of europe’s biggest and most important contemporary art fairs

Buy Local lAhrdy Carrera San gerónimo, 8. www.lhardy.com

spring feStiVAl de PriMAVerA Spring festival with theatre, concerts, dance MAY feStiVAl iN the PlAzA doS de MAyo and feriA de SAN iSidro celebrating the patron saint of Madrid summer VerANoS de lA VillA Artistic festival with open-air music and cultural events

Flamenco CASA PAtAS Cañizares Street, 10. +34 913 69 04 96 www.casapatas.com Market el rAStro ronda de toledo, 1. only Sundays. www.elrastro.org Art JuANA de AizPuru Barquillo Street, 44. +34 91 310 55 61 www.juanadeaizpuru.com Jazz CAfe CeNtrAl Plaza el Ángel, 10. www.cafecentralmadrid.com

lAVAPiÉS At Night

autum MAdrid eN dANzA Madrid dance festival

el rAStro

reiNA SofíA MuSeuM

El retiro PArk is the perfect place to promenade at weekends or relax in the shade after a tiring tour of the main museums. Spacious and beautiful with ancient trees, botanical gardens and numerous refreshment stands it also provides the backdrop to yet another museum; the Palacio de Velázquez which has good contemporary art exhibitions and a beautiful 19th century crystal palace. Take a rowing boat out on the lake or sit on the grass and watch the world go by.

The colourful and multicultural BArrio of lAVAPiÉS, near the museum quarter is heavily influenced by African, Arabic and gypsy cultures. At its heart is the plaza of Lavapiés, to the south, many rather bohemian bars and restaurants. Here you will also find the famous el rAStro flea market on Sundays and public holidays as well as the flamenco hotspot Casa Patas. Stroll around the Calle de Atocha for antiques, galleries and more upmarket shopping.

el retiro PArk

wHere to Stay

How to get tHere

RADISSOn BLU pRADO HOtEL, MADRID

the small stylish boutique hotel offers 54 chic and contemporary guest rooms and occupies a prestigious location across from the Prado Museum.

Calle Moratin 52 Plaza de Platerias Martinez 28014. +34 91 524 26 26 www.radissonblu.com/ hotels/spain/madrid

old vS. New the Fountain of Cibeles on the Paseo de recoletos is considered one of Madrid’s most important landmarks. designed by Ventura rodriguez in the late 1770s for king Charles iii, it portrays the earth goddess Cybele sitting on a chariot pulled

OnLY In MADRID

009

by two lions. the statue has become a mascot for local football superclub real Madrid, when they win a match, Cibeles is often found wrapped in a club flag in celebration. the Venezuelan kinetic and op artist Carlos Cruz-diez works with colour and optical effects: he created a giant public sculpture for Madrid’s Juan Carlos i Park, the Fisicromía para Madrid in 1992. the sculpture illustrates well the post-franco optimism and adventurous spirit of this city.

BArAJAS international airport is located 13 km northeast of the city. from here you can take a taxi, the 'Blue Bus' or the metro into town. there is also an international train service from Chamartín station.

MADRID

EvEnt CAleNdAr

The neighbouring reiNA SofíA occupies a former hospital with a distinct façade designed by British architect Ian Ritchie. The main focus is on 20th century art and there are regular exhibitions of work by contemporary international artist as well but most people come here primarily to see Picasso’s Guernica. The Spanish state bought the worlds second largest private collection, that of the late Swiss Baron Hans-Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza, in 1993. Its new permanent home is a 19th century former palace converted at great expense by Rafael Moneo and named the MuSeo thySSeN-BorNeMiSzA. Here you will find a superb art collection that spans some 700 years and includes Hans Holbein’s famous portrait of King Henry VIII, Breughel’s Garden of Eden as well as more recent greats by Egon Schiele, Otto Dix, Jackson Pollock, and Mark Rothko. CAixAforuM is the newest addition to Madrid’s museum group. Completed in 2008, this magnificent building converted from an old industrial structure by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron houses some 600 works of contemporary art. Also a fine artwork in its own right is the vertical garden on one of the exterior walls designed by the French landscape artist Patrick Blanc.

The nordic

generaTion BeauTY, SIMplIcITY and eFFoRTleSS eleGance, ScandInaVIa HaS alWaYS led THe WaY WITH GReaT deSIGn BuT noW THe 21ST cenTuRY GeneRaTIon IS ReSHapInG THe noRdIc IdenTITY and TakInG THe GaMe To THe neXT leVel.

ypsIlon table by love neuschütz yes chair by Victor alm mrs BIll cabinets by Mich Born designed for karl andersson & Söner, Sweden www.karl-anderson.se

soft strUCtUre ditte Hammerstrøm denmark www.hammerstroem.dk

nlightened’ might be a good word to describe Scandinavian culture since the 1940s: wealthy and liberal with superb education and social welfare; forward-thinking attitudes, a high standard of living and a great love and respect for nature whilst embracing technological advances have all made the Nordic countries’ example in civilised living something to aspire to. These cultural qualities are wonderfully mirrored by mid 20th Century Scandinavian furniture pieces. Hans J. Wegner’s Wishbone Chair (1949) or Arne Jacobsen’s Egg Chair (1958) for example, are all about marrying natural forms and materials with everyday functionality and new materials, as well as bridging

egg ChaIr arne Jacobsen, 1958. designed for Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, copenhagen

the gap between craft and industrial reproduction. This blend of handcraft and innovation, quality and practicality put designers like Wegner, Jacobsen, Werner Panton or Finn Juhl right at the forefront of the world design scene. Pieces they designed have become classics and many are still in production and available today. In the 1970s and ‘80s the modernist principle of ‘good’ democratic design being available to all continued with the growing international furniture giant Ikea. With it’s white on white furniture mixed with blonde wood veneers and colourful folk-inspired fabrics, Ikea brought an affordable, Scandinavian design look to the world and with Billy, manufactured perhaps the only furniture object ever to have become a household name.

KaleIDosCope paola lenti, 2009 klaesson koivisto Rune, Sweden www.ckr.se

(See page 012)

produced by Fritz Hansen a/S Photography: Karl Andersson & Söner (1), Claesson Koivisto Rune (2), Fritz Hansen A/S (3), Ditte Hammerstrøm (Photographer: Jeppe Gudmundsen-Holmgreen) (4)

011

CaraVaggIo lamp cecilie Manz, 2005 designed for lightyears a/S denmark www.lightyears.com

Today’s generation of designers and architects from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway both embrace this design legacy and use it as a springboard for experimentation with new forms and materials in fields as diverse as fashion, mobility, graphics, electronics, architecture, domestic products and even cuisine. In lighting design for example, Cecilie Manz’ Caravaggio lamp for the Danish firm Lightyears docks onto Alvar Aalto’s pieces for Artek. Danish designer Ditte Hammerstrøm deconstructs conventional furniture forms and brings a fresh, yet still functional vision to the interior landscape with her remarkable designs such as her inside-out Soft Structure seating or her Bunch of Boxes. In this vein, the Norwegian designers Stokke Austad have turned the familiar wall calendar into a cluster formation called Dayboard that reflects activity patterns. Whereas the furniture producer Swedese’s 2011 collection with pieces by Thomas Bernstrand and Claesson Koivisto Rune, amongst others, reflects a more subtle approach: updating classic Swedish features such as the rounded edges and beautifully finished wood with quirky angles and subtly adjusted proportions.

tree 194 Michael Young, katrin olina designed for Swedese Möbler aB Sweden www.swedese.se

Principles of practicality, quality and craftsmanship go hand in hand with a sustainable approach – good design does its job better, lasts longer and is most definitely easier to love than bad. The new Finnish bicycle manufacturer Pelago produces desirable and durable touring bikes that are timelessly classic in appearance, yet stop short of the retro trap. The same can be said for the simplicity and quality of the Henning Koppel chronograph watches from traditional Danish jewellers Georg Jensen.

/ noMa ReSTauRanT THe “BeST ReSTauRanT In THe WoRld” Forget the olive oil and the foie gras, nordic cuisine is all about healthy berries, grains, vegetables, fish, a little reindeer or musk ox. It is close to nature and the seasons – light, healthy and nutritious in the summer, warm and comforting in the long winter months.

“TYPICAL DISHES MIGHT BE: BEEF CHEEK AND PEAR WITH VERBENA AND ENDIVE, OR RADISHES IN EDIBLE SOIL.” using a touch of molecular technology, chef René Redzepi of noma restaurant in copenhagen, dubbed ‘best restaurant in the world’ 2010 and 2011 by Restaurant magazine, has taken foraged ingredients and Scandinavian staples to new heights in their quest for “a certain purity and essential simplicity”. Typical dishes might be: ‘Beef cheek and pear with verbena and endive’, or ‘radishes in edible soil’. noma restaUrant Strandgade 93 1401 copenhagen k Tel: +45 3296 3297 www.noma.dk

Koppel aUthomatIC Henning koppel, 2008 designed for Georg Jensen denmark www.georgjensen.com

Be IT In HoMeS oR oFFIceS, cloTHInG oR TRanSpoRT, JeWelleRY oR elecTRonIc acceSSoRIeS, an aWaReneSS and aFFInITY FoR deSIGn IS cloSelY WoVen InTo ScandInaVIa’S culTuRal FaBRIc. THe eTHoS IS aBouT TReaSuRInG TRadITIonS, coMFoRT and qualITY oF lIFe YeT eMBRacInG THe FuTuRe WITH all YouR HeaRT. To JouRneY THRouGH noRdIc deSIGn IS To JouRneY THRouGH THe ScandInaVIan Soul.

Photography: Lightyears A/S (1), Swedese Möbler AB (2), Ditte Isager (3, 4), Damien Heinisch (5), Georg Jensen A/S (6), Fiskars Home & Iittala (7)

sanDVIKa CUltUral Center Snøhetta, 2003 Sandvika, norway www.snoarc.no

DesIgn ConneCtIon

CeCIlIe manZ www.ceciliemanz.com

sweDese www.swedese.se

lIghtyears www.lightyears.dk

thomas BernstranD www.bernstrand.com

DItte hammerstrØm

pelago

stoKKeaUstaD www.stokkeaustad.com

georg Jensen www.georgjensen.com

www. hammerstroem.dk

www.pelagobicycles.com

The NexT Nordic geNeraTioN

ScANDINAvIA

aalto Vase alvar aalto, 1936 (www.iittala.com)

Design and architecture in Scandinavia are very much linked – it is all about the design of occupied space as a whole. Finland’s Alvar Aalto, for example, designed some great mid-century modern buildings as well as door handles, vases, lights and furniture. Denmark’s Arne Jacobsen was one of the world’s greatest furniture designers, but he also designed several buildings including the first ever ‘design’ hotel, the Radisson Blu Royal in Copenhagen. This pluralist approach has also been embraced by contemporary Swedish architects and designers Claesson Koivisto Rune, who: ‘treat architecture and design with the same priority’. Their Stiller Studios in Lindingö, for example, are as impressively innovative as their W101 desk lamp for Wästberg that is made of recycled paper. Other notable architectural innovators are Norway’s Snøhetta who reinterpret the landscape with their buildings, or Denmark’s Bjärke Ingels and his BIG office whose megastructure masterplans factor in contemporary exchange and communication technologies.

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The nordic nexT generaTion

short breaks

copenhagen architecture, art, design, food and fashion, five great reasons to visit copenhagen, one of the coolest and most cultivated cities in the world. First of all you need to hire a bike: this city is best enjoyed on two, unmotorised, wheels. Take in the urban architecture mix as well as architect Henning larssen’s impressive RoYal danISH opeRa house around Holmen and the harbour area. Visit the deSIGn MuSeuM for an overview of the evolution of Scandinavian furniture, then go shopping for mid-century modern danish design at the danSk MøBelkunST gallery, there is superb danish porcelain at Royal copenhagen and for contemporary design objets try Hay House near Strøget. If contemporary and modern art is your passion, or even if it isn’t, visit louISIana because it has to be one of the loveliest museums in the entire world – and it also has a very excellent museum shop selling great design. Two private contemporary galleries worth adding to your radar are: MIkael andeRSen and V1, owned by Jesper elg and peter Funch, an ideal place to stop and refuel on your travels through the city is eMMeRY’S, a delicious deli with great sandwiches, the design Museum café is pretty good too. Gourmets who can’t get a table at noma should try either MR ReSTauRanT or SøRen k. For the cocktail hour head for kaRRIeRe and stay there clubbing into the early hours.

eat - SoRen k Søren kierkegaards plads, 1. +45 3347 4949 www.soerenk.dk

VIsIt - aRken MuSeuM oF ModeRn aRT Skovvej, 100. www.arken.dk

copenHaGen BY

MIkael andeRSen

galerie Mikael Andersen

mIKael anDersen is one of copenhagen’s leading contemporary art gallerists. www.mikaelandersen.com

/ / /

BUy - danSk MøBelkunST Bredgade, 32. +45 3332 3837 VIsIt - deSIGn MuSeuM Bredgade, 68 +45 3318 5656 www.designmuseum.dk DrInK - kaRRIeRe Flaesketorvet, 57 - 67 +45 3321 5509

/ RadISSon Blu copenHaGen THe FIRST “deSIGn” HoTel The Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, copenhagen is the world’s first ‘design’ hotel. every facet of this elegant city high-rise, from its reflective façade and spiral staircase to the ‘Swan’ and ‘egg’ chairs in the lobby, was designed by the great danish architect

STocKhoLM

Bredgade 63 +45 3333 0512

WHERE ARE YOUR FAvOURITE HAUNTS?

WHAT IS SPEcIAL ABOUT cOPENHAgEN?

Ma copenhagen is a small village capital; vibrant yet cozy; funky yet traditional; international yet strongly connected to Scandinavia.

WHAT ARE THE 3 THINgS YOU LIkE THE MOST ABOUT THE cITY? Ma I like that copenhagen is easy to get around in by bike, that it’s people are open and positive and that the city is placed by the water. all these things contribute to the special essence of copenhagen.

arne Jacobsen. design fans should book into (or at least ask for a peek at) room 606 which features Jacobsen’s original décor from the 1960s. Superbly central, the ‘Royal’ is within walking distance of the Tivoli Gardens and main shopping area as well as the main station. dine here in the alberto k gourmet restaurant on seasonal danish contemporary cuisine as you take in views of the copenhagen cityscape from the 20th floor panorama windows.

CIty tIps

island paradise The Swedish capital, like many Scandinavian cities, has a close relationship with water. It is situated on a group of 14 little islands dividing the freshwater lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea joined together by around 50 bridges. Taking a boat tour is a good way to get a feel for the city’s unique topography. You can also take a longer tour to the east and visit the amazing 80km long Stockholm archipelago (Skärgarden) of 24,000 islands, islets and rocks. Here you can also appreciate the Swedish summer cabin culture at its most refined. Back in the city, the Gamla Stan old town is well worth exploring on foot and the striking VaSa MuSeuM containing the uniquely preserved hulk of a 16th century warship should not be missed. Shopping and design fans will enjoy a visit to JackSonS for mid-century modern design objects. Go to local interiors firm aSplund for contemporary classic interiors or deSIGn HouSe for great accessories and gifts to take home. Swedish fashion freaks will not want to leave without a pair or two of acne JeanS, not to mention accessoires. The acne flagship sore in normalmstorg has a huge selection. an absolute must on the international design calendar is the Stockholm Furniture Fair held each year in February. If you book your hotel room well ahead, a winter short break in Stockholm at this time will allow you to soak up all the Scandinavian design you could ever wish for.

CIty tIps

the world’s coolest city

eat - F12 Fredsgatan, 12. +46 824 8052 www.fredsgatan12.com

VIsIt - naSa MuSeuM djurgårdsvägen, 36. +46 8519 548 00 www.vasamuseet.se

BUy - auSplud Sibyllegatan, 31. www.ausplud.org

wear - acne JeanS norrmalmstorg, 2. www.acnestudios.com

Ma The Glyptoteket is full of fascinating history and the Winter Garden is a perfect place to spend an afternoon with a friend. louisiana in Humlebæk is one of the best art museums in the world. Restaurant le Sommilier in Bredgade is great in both summer and winter and the Ved Stranden 10 wine bar is a great place to experience the city’s spirit.

WHERE DO YOU gO FOR INSPIRATION?

Ma The danish design Museum garden, it is a beautiful spot with a peaceful atmosphere.

where to stay

/ / /

RADISSON BLU ROYAL HOTEL RADISSON BLU FALcONER HOTEL & cONFERENcE cENTER RADISSON BLU ScANDINAvIA HOTEL www.radissonblu.com/hotels/denmark/copenhagen

/ MalMÖ: BReakInG THe WaVeS Few first visitors realise that copenhagen on the danish islands is only a handful of kilometres as the crow flies from Malmö in mainland Sweden. The journey, however could take hours by road or sea – until the completion of europe’s longest bridge, the Öresund, between the two countries in 2000. now you can hop from copenhagen to Malmö in as little as 35 minutes by train. Malmö’s most distinctive landmark is the HSB Turning Torso tower designed by Spanish architect Santiago calatrava and completed in 2005. Recognisable from afar with its distinctive 90 degree twist it is the tallest residential building in europe and a considerable feat of engineering.

where to stay

/ / / /

RADISSON BLU ROYAL PARk HOTEL RADISSON BLU ROYAL vIkINg HOTEL RADISSON BLU STRAND HOTEL RADISSON BLU WATERFRONT HOTEL www.radissonblu.com/hotels/sweden/stockholm

InformatIon prICes By car: 40€ By Train: arround 20€

where to stay

RADISSON BLU HOTEL, MALMÖ

ostergatan, 10 +46 40 6984000 www.radissonblu.com

Photography: Galerie Mikael Andersen (2, 3), Ole Jais (4), Acne Jeans - Acne Studios (5)

big on design This is a city whose biggest national treasure is an architect. alVaR aalTo (1898-1976) believed in design as a "gesamtkunstwerk" , an intergrated attitude, which meant that he designed not only buildings, but their interiors and all their furnishings as well –including the textiles and glassware. a great place to see where his principles were put into action is aalTo’S HouSe, which is open to the public, along with the nearby Studio aalto in the Munkkiniemi district. Then, armed with an understanding of the Finnish master of mid-century modern, you can then continue your design education with a trip to the deSIGn MuSeuM and then see some of the best of contemporary Finnish design at the deSIGn FoRuM FInland, located in Helsinki’s design district. centred around dianapuisto park this area is filled with interiors and antique shops, galleries, workshops and clothing and jewellery boutiques as well as restaurants. For an extended design-oriented shopping trip you could include visits to local brands Iittala and MaRIMekko for glass and fabrics respectively, as well as aeRo deSIGn FuRnITuRe for both classic and contemporary furniture. GalleRIa noRSu is a good place for fans of contemporary crafts. Somehow a trip to a city is not complete without visiting at least one place of worship. The church of choice in Helsinki in this respect has to be the stunning Temppeliaukio church that was quarried out of solid bedrock by architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen in 1969 – it has amazing acoustics. For dinner we recommend a table at the SaVoY with its aalto-design interior or cHez doMInIque’S who have two Michelin stars for their innovative nordic/ Gallic cuisine combinations. For nordic pure, try olo restaurant dedicated to the ‘natural and clean flavours of land and sea’.

eat - SaVoY eteläesplanadi, 14. +358 09 684 4020 www.royalravintolat.com

eat - cHez doMInIque'S Rikhardinkatu, 4. +358 09 612 7393 www.chezdominique.fi

VIsIt - aalTo'S HouSe Riihitie, 20. +358 09 481 350 www.alvaraalto.fi

see - GalleRIa noRSu kaisaniemenkatu, 9. +358 09 2316 3250 www.norsu.info

VIsIt - kIaSMa MuSeuM Mannerheiminaukio 2. +358 09 1733 6501 www.kiasma.fi

BUy - aeRo deSIGn Yrjönkatu, 8. +358 09 680 2185 www.aerodesignfurniture.fi

VIsIt - deSIGn MuSeuM www.designmuseum.fi

see - TeMppelIaukIo lutherinkatu, 3. +358 09 494 698

Temppeliaukio

aalTo InSIde Helsinki’s Radisson Blu plaza Hotel blends the historic tradition of a 1917 structure with a modern update by renowned Finnish architects pervin Imaditdin and Ilmo Valjakka. Superbly central, close to the main train station and 30 minutes from the airport, it also has an in-house restaurant with seven dining rooms devoted to both Finnish and Italian cuisine. Two of the hotel's executive suites are named after the iconic Finnish architect alvar aalto and come furnished with aalto-designed furniture.

where to stay

oSLo the blue green city

RADISSON BLU ROYAL HOTEL RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL RADISSON BLU SEASIDE HOTEL

www.radissonblu.com/hotels/finland/helsinki

CIty tIps

eat - GRand caFé karl Johans gate, 31. +47 2321 2018 www.grand.no

eat - SüdøST Trondheimsveien, 5. +47 2335 3070 www.sydost.no

/ /

BUy - SøRenSen MøBleR Bygdøy allé, 60. www.sorensen-mobelsalong.no

BUy - noRWaY deSIGnS Stortingsgt. 28. +47 2311 4510 www.norwaydesigns.no

VIsIt - noBel peace cenTeR Rådhusplassen. www. nobelpeacecenter.org

Clothes - SecReT SocIeTY Yrjönkatu, 8. +47 9139 5667 www.secretsociety.no

see - GalleRY RISS Filipstadveien, 5. +47 2294 4040 www.galleririis.com

DrInK - eToIle BaR Briskebyveien, 38. +47 2321 2000

THE OPERAHUSET where to stay

/ / / /

RADISSON BLU HOTEL NYDALEN RADISSON BLU PARk HOTEL RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL RADISSON BLU ScANDINAvIA HOTEL www.radissonblu.com /hotels/norway/oslo

/ DogA - the Norwegian centre for Design and Architecture Founded by the norwegian design council norsk Form, Its mandate is to help is about raising awareness of the use of design as a tool for innovation. Housed in an amazing former transformer station, it plays host to a fine range of exhibitions and events. Information aDDress:

Hausmannsgate 16 +47 23 29 28 70 www.doga.no Photography: VisitFinland.com (1), Bjørn Eirik Østbakken / www.visitnorway.com (3), DoGa / Niklas R. Lello (4)

BUy - MaRIMekko annankatu, 25. www.marimekko.com

/ RadISSon Blu HelSInkI

/ / /

located between a fjord and a nature reserve of green hills and mountains, this low-density, large area, capital city is one of the most environmentally friendly capitals in the world. oslo is one of the world’s most expensive cities – but only if you treat it as such: public transport here is efficient and extensive – a one-day pass will allow you unlimited use of municipal buses, trains, metro, trams and boats. or pick up a public bike using a key card available from the local tourist office. In the summer consider a bike trip to the forests, the VIGeland SculpTuRe paRk or a swim in one of the many freshwater lakes around the city. There are plenty of cultural hotspots in oslo, our picks to visit would include: the opeRaHuSeT, the noBel peace cenTRe, designed by British star architect david adjaye, the private GalleRY RISS in the city centre and the new buildings in the Fjord city docklands regeneration project. also worth seeing are: the noRWeGIan cenTRe FoR deSIGn and aRcHITecTuRe and the MuSeuM oF aRcHITecTuRe, both housed in an old power station called Hausmanns Gate 16. Retail therapy hotspots for design and fashion fans include mid-century and contemporary Scandinavian furniture from SøRenSen oSTlYnGen MøBleR, norwegian design specialities from the imaginatively named noRWaY deSIGnS and a great clothes boutique for fashion fans: SecReT SocIeTY. For wining and dining we recommend: Henrik Ibsen’s favourite haunt, THe GRand caFé, the lofoten Fiskrestaurant, no 15 brasserie and Bolgen & Moi. For after dinner drinks and a penthouse view try the espresso martinis in the ÈToIle BaR.

ScAWNDINAvIA

heLSinKi

013

CIty tIps

openIng hoUrs: Mon - Fri: 10 —17h Wed - Thu: 10 — 20h Sat - Sun: 12 — 17h

The NexT Nordic geNeraTioN

iNto

OUT OF THE CITY…

the

BlUe

sKÄrgÅrd – the stocKholM archipelago

the oslofjord

Bathing, boats and beaches for Norway’s nature loving citizens and their guests

Photography: Valentin Angerer (2)

A spectacular destination where land and water merge and a city comes to play

/ SOMETHING MORE ... island-hopping in the archipelago The best way to experience the Stockholm archipelago is to put on your walking shoes, pick up your backpack and travel by foot and ferry from island to island. You can get a Waxholmsbolaget island-hopping five day pass for 420 SEK and ask for their island-hopping map too when you buy the ticket. Basically the further out you travel, the wilder and more isolated the landscape gets until it is just you, the seals and the eagles at the edge of the sea.

Information Waxholms Ångfartygs AB Box 7422 103 91 Stockholm +46 08614 6450 www.waxholmsbolaget.se

PRICES

Charges for an individual journey vary from between 40 SEK and 130 SEK depending on distance.

015

tOckhOlm’s skärgård archipelago has to be seen to be believed: the 80 kilometres between Sweden’s capital and the Baltic Sea is dotted with an extraordinary network of over 24,000 islands and islets of all shapes and sizes. Whilst some of the islands are little more than rocks, others have trees and vegetation, simple cabins or luxury villas, jettys, beaches or entire villages.

ONLY IN tHE aRCHIPELaGO

/ WHat tO DO

Hike the islands’ marked trails, go fishing, or rent a kayak or a bike. Visit museums and places of interest, or just read, swim, relax and marvel at nature’s ingenuity in creating such a perfect playground.

Stockholmers love to spend their vacations here in the summer months and many have their own cabins or country houses complete with own (very necessary) boat. You can take guided boat tours from the heart of the capital or use the local ferry service to visit for a few hours or a day but you can also hire holiday cabins for a weekend, a week or the whole summer if you wish. Hire a boat too and take advantage of Allemansrätt (or "everyman's right"), a law that gives anyone the right to go ashore or anchor on any ground not in the direct vicinity of buildings, to explore at your leisure. Some of the larger islands worth visiting are: Finnhamn whose forests and meadows are great for long walks (there is a hostel, in case you want to stay overnight); Grinda, which has beaches and a restaurant, camping ground, summer cottages and cycle paths, is a great place for fishing and Utö, inhabited since the time of the Vikings, has sandy beaches and beautiful cliffs as well as places to eat and stay.

/ SHORt CRUISE STROMMA

Stromma.se offers three hour cruises to the archipelago for Stockholm visitors who just want to get a taste of Skärgård. Try booking a midday trip and enjoy a leisurely lunch as you sail. www.stromma.se

/ WHat tO takE

Warm, wind and rain resistant clothing, mosquito repellent, tweezers for removing ticks, mobile phone and drinking water, since it can be difficult to find fresh water on some islands.

/ SOMETHING MORE...

Numerous ferries criss-cross the fjord and up and down the coast, which makes it easy to explore the numerous beaches and sights on both the mainland and the fjord’s islands. Each island in the Oslofjord has its own distinctive characteristics and every Osloer coming here for recreation has his or her favourite. Hovedøya is famous for its monastery ruins, Gressholmen for its large rabbit population, Nakholmen, Bleikøya, Lindøya for their pretty wooden cabins at the water’s edge, and Langøyene is great for camping by the beach. All these islands can be reached by ferry from Vippetangen.On Bygdøy peninsula you can visit a Viking ship and the Kon-Tiki and then head on to Huk or Paradisbukta beach. Norway’s most famous painter, Edvard Munch had a cottage and studio in Åsgårdstrand on the fjord and the Oslofjord appears in several of his paintings, including The Scream and Girls on the Pier although one gets the feeling that he too probably spent most of the summer here dipping his toes in the water and enjoying a beer just like his compatriots.

/ DINING WItH a DIFFERENCE DYNA FYR RESTAuRANT Guests are picked up by boat from the harbour and enjoy a set menu of delicious seasonal cooking. This is a unique private dining experience in a lighthouse perched on a rock out in the fjord. Book well ahead. www.dynafyr.no

/ HEI taxI! FJORDTAXI

Take a fjord taxi for sightseeing, fishing and other trips on the Oslofjord. The Halco 31 boat seats up to eleven passengers www.fjordtaxi.no

/ NORWaY IN a NUtSHELL

Available as a day trip or with accommodation en route this ecofriendly tour company offers a great taste of Norways amazing fjord scenery

island hopping in the oslofjord

Choose your own itinerary: pack a picnic, a blanket and your swimming gear (in the summer) and go island hopping between the islands in the Oslofjord on the efficient public transport ferry system. With an Oslo Pass (which also gives you free access to over 35 different museums and sights) you can easily get on and off any of the ferries going between Vippetangen, Hovedøya, Lindøya, Nakholmen, Bleikøya, Gressholmen and Langøyene. Information The Oslo Pass is valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours from the time you mark the card with the date. www.visitoslo.com

ScandInavIa

he OslOfjOrd stretches some 100km inland from Færder lighthouse to the Norwegian capital of Oslo and is the city’s much-loved playground in the summer months. If you like messing about in boats, you will love it here: there is a choice of kayaking, canoeing, fishing, and sailing for adults and children alike.

ONLY IN OSLOFJORD

PRICES

24 hours - 230 NOK 48 hours - 340 NOK 72 hours - 430 NOK

www.norwaynutshell.com

Into the blue

016

short breaks

yoU are here: berlin / madrid / scandinavia /

dubai / hanseaTic ciTies / cavan / iTaly Tour / nice vs. cape Town / durham / isTanbul / paris

New Global Hub of

iNTernaTionAL cuisine

– – DUbai

This former pearl Trader’s porT has been an oasis of refreshmenT in The deserT for inTernaTional Travellers for millennia. now iT is a desTinaTion in iTs own righT, a capiTal of culinary delighTs where you can sample jusT abouT any cuisine The world has To offer.

o understand Dubai, you have to know a bit about its history: It is believed that this little harbour has been an important stopping point on the ancient trading route between Mesopotamia and the Indus valley for as long as 4,000 years. So for millennia, a tiny trickle of fresh water between the desert and the sea, now known as the ‘Creek’, has meant refreshment and respite for Bedouin nomads and Mesopotamian merchant traders alike. In the 19th Century, members of the Ban-Yas clan, led by the Maktoum family (who still rule the country today), founded a pearl fishing village here, which rapidly grew into the most important trading community in the Gulf. In the 1940s the trade turned from pearls to to gold and in the 1960s from gold to oil. But Dubai is small, barely 3,900 sq km in size and in the 1980s, the Emirate’s far-sighted ruler Sheik Rashid Al Maktoum realised that the country’s oil reserves would not last forever. Building on Dubai’s long history as a trading point and resting place in one, and the ever-

King of The KiTchens Uwe Micheel direcTor of kiTchens aT The radisson blu hoTel, dubai deira creek and presidenT of The emiraTes culinary guild shares insighTs on dubai:

DUbai is a Melting pot of cUltUres, what is the secret to fitting in here? UM The main thing is to respect one another’s way of life. you can certainly feel at home here, but you should never forget that you are also a guest in this city.

growing air travel industry, he set about investing oil revenues into the re-invention of the city as a luxury tourist resort and meeting place for travellers between East and West. Liberal economic policies, few rules, cheap energy and no direct taxes made Dubai a magnet for investors and the boom began. In two short decades a gleaming glass and steel skyscraper city has emerged from both the desert sands and the Arabian Sea packed with luxury hotels and leisure and business facilities of every imaginable description.

is there a local cUisine?

Dubai has worked hard to change its reputation from a place to pass through to a place to stop at. Bombastic hotels, artificial islands, luxury shopping, sky-high penthouses, superb spas and state-ofthe-art sports facilities all abound. It has become the world’s playground and the variety of choice is now staggering.

cuisine, which is native to dubai, with spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, chili, zaatar (wild thyme) and sumac. however, a popular cuisine that also reflects the culture here is the arabic cuisine which derives from mainly lebanon and syria with a lot of Turkish influence.

The visitor seeking to find the identity of this infant city will soon discover that it is as intangibly nomadic as its founding fathers. For (P. 18) Dubai’s true identity lies in

how woUlD yoU Describe the essence of DUbai? UM dubai has a lot of different lifestyles and cultures – from traditional and very local in some areas, to very modern in others, together they are the essence dubai. UM The local cuisine is called the emirati

Where to eat you can experience anything you want in the desert city of dubai. from snowy ski slopes to an 18-hole golf course; from a hundred different spa treatments to a pop diva live in concert, it’s all there – you just need to name your desire. now if your desires happen to be of a culinary nature, you couldn’t do much better than radisson blu hoTel, dubai deira creek. with views across the water and within walking distance of the old town, this hotel has amazing 16 resTauranTs and bars that perfectly morror the multicultural atmosphere of dubai, our short tips include a pick of our favourites.

017

al MansoUr Dhow dinner with a difference: Take a luxurious dinner cruise on a traditional arab sailing boat with the radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek’s al mansour dhow. leaving the dock at 8pm, you can enjoy a selection of international or traditional arabian cuisine from the on-board buffet whilst cruising along the creek to the strains of live oud playing. The ship is also equipped with a full-service bar and can be booked for private functions.

creek view from room balcony, radisson blu hoTel, dubai deira creek

fish markeT resTauranT

located on the 2nd floor of the radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek, the fish markeT is one of the united arabian emirates favorite seafood eateries. The concept of the restaurant is like a typical far-eastern market: fresh seafood and fish are laid out on a bed of ice, from which guests can pick their fish to be, cooked to their own specifications by the restaurant’s Thai chefs. particular favourites are: live lobster in tamarind sauce, hammour in thai curry sauce, live crab in garlic pepper sauce or tiger prawns in lemon butter and garlic sauce.

fish markeT resTauranT

al almansour mansourdhow, dhow,radisson radissonblu bluhoTel, hoTel,dubai dubaideira deiracreek creek

1822 1,200

1960 40,000

03 shabestan

shabesTan resTauranT

persian cuisine belongs to the middle east’s finest and oldest food cultures. The interior of the shabesTan, one of 16 specialty restaurants in radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek has an atmosphere redolent of ancient persia with traditional live music and food to match. persian caviar from caspian sturgeon is served here, as well as delicately perfumed rice mixed with with fresh herbs and spices, fruits and nuts. The tenderest of lamb fillets and other meats are marinated for 48 hours and grilled or roasted to perfection. for dessert, try the refreshing rose flavoured ice cream.

1985 370,800

2011 1,580,000

PoPulation StatiSticS year populaTion

Where to Stay

upscale luxury in the heart of dubai's bustling business district, all rooms and suites with balconies and fabulous views of dubai's legendary creek. a choice of 16 restaurants and bars, and close proximity to shopping malls, souks and the main tourist attractions including the creek golf club.

raDisson blU hotel, DUbai Deira creek Bani Yas Road 476 Dubai United Arab Emirates +971 4 222 7171 Discover all Radisson Blu Hotels in Dubai: www.radissonblu.com/hotels/ united-arab-emirates/dubai

DUbai

fish Market

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short breaks

yoU are here: berlin / madrid / scandinavia /

dubai / hanseaTic ciTies / cavan / iTaly Tour / nice vs. cape Town / durham / isTanbul / paris

shopping Malls

shopping is the national pastime and main attraction in dubai. millions come here every year to enjoy tax-free, air-conditioned brand consumption in what has to be the highest concentration of lavish and luxurious malls in the world. mall of The emiraTes is by far the biggest, festival city is a local favourite and mercato is elegant and venetianthemed.

mall of The emiraTes

DUbai’s beaches

dubai has beautiful white sandy beaches with crystal clear water. waterfront hotels tend to have their own private stretches of beach, but the best public access areas are at jumeirah and mamZar park. jumeirah is good for children. beachwear is okay on the beach but you should cover up before leaving it.

one PerFect day in duBai

TasTes The range of culinary experiences at the radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek can make every mealtime a voyage of discovery. here are few more restaurants to choose from. for reservations call +971 4222 7171 palm grill a classic contemporary steakhouse: premium grade beef cooked to perfection over a charcoal grill, paired with fine wine chosen from the restaurant's extensive wine list.

Morning shopping

at t h eMir e Mall o a befo tes geT f the re T T he c here row ds

l ein ia se er t

a h Ur g siake a pter toer view t eTT ico hel or a b in f

at the alMaZ who needs alcohol?

Mockta

ils

eXe ba rcis s rga e yoUr

at kill inin g s 24 th in ka e g ve ra ol s T D T Ma m en rk Ts et

international culinary hub of the highest order catering to the world’s palates on a grand scale. So for a short trip with a difference, try taking a tastebud world tour in Dubai.

st ar te r

Da n

Dubai has become the world’s playground – the variety of choice is now staggering

D e ar aT ev lic l e U d h ies iT r bo a e et T w sT h t rM as pa wn at oU kf nd To g rea s a in b ke Ts ca as To

sw ee t

trade, which mean that everybody who visits here, settles or passes through, brings a little piece of their culture with them. Nowhere is this more noticeable than in the culinary abundance on offer. Dubai is not just about shopping and pampering, it has become an

gy r ilo d fo r t a at : he of Tip e ro Th

www.malloftheemirates.com

minaTo a traditional japanese restaurant favoured amongst the japanese community. la moda Trendy italian restaurant featuring beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the creek. sumibiya The first japanese yakiniku style restaurant in dubai: dishes are prepared in front of guests on a grill built into the table. yum a fashionable noodle bar featuring a tasty fusion of Thai, malaysian, singaporean and indonesian cuisines. a great spot for a quick and affordable meal.

adventurouS duBai Drive into the Desert …

balloon safari

ski dubai

with average summer temperatures of well over 40°c the arabian desert is not for delicate constitutions, but it is unbelievably beautiful and well worth leaving your air-conned artificial city environment for. hook up with a guided Tour (arabian-adventures.com) in 4-wheel drive vehicles to the wadis in the hajar mountains, 100km south of the city. here you can cool off with a dip in icy freshwater pools and visit the ancient fortess village of hatta. snowboard fans should definitely try sandboarding (alphatoursdubai.com) on the slippery dunes, and a deserT driving course (desertrangers.com), skidding down the dunes in an off-roader is great fun. alternatively, take to the air at dawn in a hoT air balloon (seawings.ae) to appreciate one of the world’s great wildernesses in all its splendour.

… Dive into the sea …

The desert may be splendid, but the arabian gulf also has a few treasures of its own. you can scuba dive around the coral reefs that have not been destroyed by the construction of palm island amongst others. really keen divers may prefer to take a boaT Trip to musandam in oman for a greater range of dive sites.

boulvar The hotel’s 24-hour, international restaurant has an extensive à la carte menu and also offers exquisite breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets.

… or hit the piste

dubai can be a surreal place – but it doesn’t get much more surreal than indoor skiing when outside its 40°c in the shade. marketing itself as ‘the coolest thing to do in dubai’, ski dubai has five snow-covered pistes and a snow park for the kids. skiwear and equipment can all be hired on site.

anD to whet yoUr appetite:

up on The 10Th one of dubai’s best jazz bars with a manhattan-chic decor. champagne cocktails are the bar's signature beverage.

photography: j. konrad schmidt (1), siddharth siva (5)

019

old verSuS neW bastiyaka

if you want to get an idea of what dubai looked like before it was invaded by air conditioning, concrete, mirrored glass and a western-defined aesthetic, then visit the narrow lanes of the tiny bastiyaka quarter. here the inner courtyards of the old 19th century merchant’s houses are kept cool by the beautifully restored thick coral, gypsum and limestone walls, decorative grilles and rooftop wind towers. The pearl and textile merchants of old have long been replaced by shops, galleries and restaurants, but the atmosphere and pace here is still a hundred years away from the rest of dubai.

bUrj khalifa

This building aims to be about as striking as it gets. also known as the burj dubai, the burj khalifa became the tallest building in the world on completion in 2010 with 162 floors and an astounding height of 828 metres. over 5,000 consultants and skilled construction workers were needed for the project which cost $1.5 billion. despite being reminiscent of new york’s empire state building, the tower’s tapering design by american architects skidmore, owings and merrill does in fact reflect islamic patterns to a degree and its triple-lobed footprint was inspired by natural plant forms.

GettinG around

in dubai the car is king. The city metro system is in its infancy vand local buses aren’t particularly tourist friendly. ask your concierge to organise you a taxi or your own car and chauffeur for trips and sightseeing. in the old city centre, use abras (water taxis) to cross dubai creek.

Directions froM DUbai international airport

the china clUb

The china club

if you are in the mood to go further east, The china club restaurant is located on the ground floor in the radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek. here, surrounded by traditional-style décor with walls draped in antique silks and embroidery hangings, you can experience a fine fusion of traditional and modern chinese cuisine. peking, szechwan and cantonese specialities can all be found on the extensive menu. chef Xu’s peking duck is a speciality. also recommended is the yum cha brunch every day between 12:30 and 3:00 pm.

March

dubai world cup The highest stakes horse racing event in the world

jUne–jUly

dubai summer surprises a 10 week event in dubai’s shopping malls with bargains and plenty of family-oriented entertainment

www.mydsf.ae

1 aUgUst

The holy month of ramadan highpoint of the muslim photography: siddharth siva (1, 2, 3)

abras (waTer TaXi)

More duBai book to reaD – ‘telling tales’

an oral history of dubai (explorer publishing): fascinating interviews with some of dubai’s founding citizens by bbc gulf correspondent julia wheeler.

by car: The radisson blu hotel, dubai deira creek is located 7 km from the dubai international airport with 15-minute taxi ride. upon exiting the airport, keep on the main airport road, heading straight towards deira. upon reaching the by fooT: The hotel is located only 300 metres from the union metro station – an approximate four-minute walk, but remember how hot it is!

aDDitional Tips calendar: at sunset people flock to the hotels’ ramadan tents for a traditional iftar meal which breaks the fast for the day.

30 aUgUst

eid al fiTr The ‘feast of the breaking of the fast’, takes place at the end of ramadan with fireworks displays, singing and dancing to traditional bands.

october–april

camel race season This traditional sport of

camel racing is a serious business in the gulf with top class racing camels worth tens of thousands of dirhams. on wednesdays, Thursdays and fridays from 7am – 10am.

DeceMber

dubai inTernaTional film fesTival since 2004, the leading middle east film festival and an important platform for arab film makers as well as directors from asia and africa.

www.dubaifilmfest.com

sightseeing

jumeirah mosque The jumeirah mosque is a dominant landmark of dubai city and particularly beautiful at sunset. Take a guided tour and remember to dress appropriately: long sleeves, long trousers or skirts and a headscarf for the ladies.

MUseUM

dubai museum get an insight into life in dubai before the oil boom: a romantic world of pearl fishers, trading and the bedouin lifestyle.

art

Xva gallery a contemporary art gallery with several exhibition rooms, a shady courtyard café and art-house film screenings.

safari

falconry: a sporT of kings hunting with falcons is an old arabian tradition. Take a desert safari to learn about mankind’s relationship with these magnificent birds and watch them in action.

shopping

bespoke lcc get a bespoke suit made to your exact specifications by a company boasting seven generations of fine tailoring experience. located at The gate in the dubai shopping mall.

www.bespoke.ae

café

basTa arT café a leafy courtyard café in the bastakiya quarter. Try a glass of the refeshing mint and lime basta special.

DUbai

event calendar

hoW to Get there

020

short breaks

You are here: berlin / Madrid / scandinavia / dubai /

hanseatic cities / cavan / italy tour / nice vs. cape town / durhaM / istanbul / paris

e Through Time g a y o V To

Lübeck Riga & kRakow Much of the cultural and architectural wealth of northern europe’s harbour cities began with a group of Merchants banding together to protect theMselves froM Marauding pirates soMe 800 years ago. discover the power and influence of the hanseatic league on a journey back through tiMe in soMe of europe’s Most beautiful historical old towns.

Hanseatic cities

ong ago when many countries of Europe would not even consider talking to each other, let alone think of forming a union or holding song contests, one of the most powerful economic alliances the world has ever seen dominated and controlled trade across the whole of northern Europe. The Hanseatic League (also known as the Hanse or Hansa) was an independent organisation of sea-trading cities and merchant guilds that stretched from the Baltic to the North Sea between the 13th and 17th Centuries. Centred around the German city of Lübeck, the Hansa protected the commer-

Lübeck

cial interests and privileges, both physically and politically, of some 200 member cities and towns. At its height its dominion stretched from Russia to Portugal and Scandinavia to Italy. The results of it’s influence are particularly tangible in the historical fabric and architecture of many of its former Northern European member cities. A short break visit to some of the most picturesque Hanseatic Cities can not only be an enjoyable experience in its own right, but a fascinating opportunity to deepen your historical understanding of the huge influence of trade on the development of today’s European culture and city life.

ounded in 1143, this german baltic city was the jewel in the free hansa crown for 500 years. from here the league’s merchant sailors plied their trade from gotland to russia, venice and the orient, making this one of the medieval world’s most cosmopolitan cities. lübeck’s handsome red brick gothic architecture of the old town has earned it ‘unesco world heritage site’ status. there are numerous pretty narrow lanes here dotted with museums, monasteries, lovely patrician townhouses and courtyards. key museums to visit in lübeck are the st. annen MuseuM, a former 13th century monastery with a chequered wartime past, and the extensive puppet and theatre MuseuM. the behn house has a good 19th century romantic art collection set in typical german interiors of the time, and the famous holsten gate with its twin pointed towers is hard to miss. lübeck has been home to no less than three nobel laureates: the writers thomas Mann and günter grass and former chancellor willi brandt. literature fans may like to visit buddenbrook house, scene of thomas Mann’s first novel of the same name and now a museum. read the novel too for a fascinating insight into four generations of family life in 19th century lübeck.

a DaY at the SeaSiDe

lübeck’s renowned coastal resort travemünde has long wide beaches and a bustling port. great bathing and for sailing: if you go during the ‘travemünder woche’ in july there is a big sailing regatta and parties throughout the city.

www.travemuender-woche.net

NorDic Film DaYS

held annually in the first week of november, this film festival features new movies, documentaries and short films from denmark, estonia, finland, iceland, latvia, lithuania, norway and sweden.

www.luebeck.de/filmtage/en/index.html h

WHERE to Stay

radisson Blu Senator hotel lübeck

situated in the old town, overlooking the river trave near the gothic holstentor gate, this luxury hotel features two restaurants and a good bar.

Willy-Brandt Allee 6 D-23554 Lübeck - Germany +49 451 1420 www.radissonblu.com photography: patrick de jourdan (1)

016 021

Riga

he capital of latvia and largest of the baltic cities, riga was a major trade hub of the hansa league during the Middle ages, then part of the swedish, russian and soviet empires respectively before full independence in the 1990s. today it is a well-restored, picturesque city with a flourishing arts and entertainment culture that make it a popular destination. sometimes known as the ‘paris of the north’, riga has a rich variety of well-restored architecture that ranges from gothic to contemporary. the city is particularly famous for its jugendstil (german art nouveau) architecture. Many of

the buildings in the central district around elizabetes street are impressive examples of this flamboyantly decorative late 19th century style. buildings by one of latvia’s most famous architects, Mikhail eisenstein (father of film director sergei eisenstein), can be found at elizabetes 10a and 10b, as well as at alberta 2, 2a, 4, 8 and 13. strelnieku. terbatas and brivibas streets are also worth taking a look at.

local liqueur

one of traditional local tipples is rigas Melnais balzaMs (riga black balsam), a herbal liqueur made from 24 different plant ingredients in a vodka base. bitter

sweet in taste and at 45% proof it is strong stuff – said to have digestif properties.

DoriaN GraY caFé

WHERE to Stay

a great alternative to the traditional restaurants in town, this contemporary diner serves latvian specialities as well as good european fare. www.riga-guide.com/guide/

radisson Blu Daugava hotel, riga

riGa Slow FooD marKet

24 Kugu Street, Riga LV-1007, Latvia +371 6706 1111 www.radissonblu.com/hotels/latvia/riga

dorian-gray-cafe-riga

from february to november each year this seasonal local market sells fresh dairy produce, smoked meat and fish, sweet berries, pumpkin soup and good souvenirs made by local artists and craftsmen.

full service and first-class accommodation on the banks of the daugava river overlooking the old city.

www.earthmarkets.net/network/riga

kRakow

PoSter culture polish graphic design is world-renowned. visit the kraków poster gallery to see and buy from a great selection of film and theatre posters.

www.cracowpostergallery. com

ethNoGraPhic muSeum

kraków’s handcraft culture is a rich and diverse blend of central european influences. the city’s ethnographic Museum is a good place to experience and learn about its diversity.

www.etnomuzeum.eu

WHERE to Stay

radisson Blu hotel, Krakow

located on the modern shopping street zwierzyniecka, within walking distance of the wawel castle and the old jewish quarter.

Straszewskiego Street 17, 31-101 Krakow +48 (12) 618 88 88 www.radissonblu.com

haNSeatic citieS iStaNBul

raków had a loose attachment with the hansa league in the Middle ages via its river vistula. it is one of poland’s most beautiful cities and packed with gothic and renaissance architecture centred around rynek główny, the large main square. visit the Mariacki church here and mosey around the sukiennice (old cloth hall) opposite for handcrafted wooden toys or traditional embroidery. climb the wawel hill to the royal castle – a polish national symbol, full of tombs of kings and heroes, but also visit the synagogues and museum in the newly restored, former jewish quarter kaziMierz, to learn some of the more tragic aspects of kraków’s history. there are many restaurants in kraków’s old town. some of the old gothic cellar restaurants are good places to sample traditional – washed down with plenty of vodka of course! drink tea with lemon in a café, or a cup of thick hot chocolate and eat polish apple cake in the afternoon.

022

short breaks

you arE HErE: Berlin / maDriD / sCanDinavia / DuBai / hanseaTiC CiTies /

Cavan / iTaly TOur / niCe vs. CaPe TOWn / Durham / isTanBul / Paris

CAVANCOUNTY LIVE LIKE A LORD IN

gOlF, Fishing, PamPering anD relaXing in irelanD’s mOsT BeauTiFul lakelanD regiOn.

Percentage of County Cavan's population living in towns: 15% Percentage of County Cavan's population living in the country: 85%

The Farnham esTaTe gOlF CluB’s 18-hole, par 72 course designed by Jeff Howes is one of Ireland’s top 100. Spread over 500 acres of beautiful parkland, it is set amongst undulating meadows with seven lakes and a meandering stream running through it. The course opens with a gentle par four, but from the second onwards, the golfer is thoroughly tested in all respects as it works higher into the estate’s mature woodland, before finally returning to finish in

a rEa c tt kf F a r HE as Pr ine Es B t o s t O T a t D a u u lO r n Ce C a ial n t

tH at oM ro

FaCtS aND FIgUreS

Watch the sunset from Cavan Way in Blacklion, go fishing on lough sheelin or lough gowna and take a walk in killykeen or Dun a ri forest parks.

A short break in Cavan is all about slowing down, taking time to drink in the smell of the lush grass, the sounds of the trees and the streams and watch fluffy clouds scud across the everchanging sky. A few days spent out in Cavan’s fresh air, whether playing golf, fishing, hiking or just watching the natural world go by, can be a real tonic for the soul.

at cLouGH ouGHtEr castLE On The lake

Take afternoon tea in the music room, drinks in the Wine goose Bar and dinner in the Botanica restaurant of the radisson Blu Farnham estate hotel, or dine at mcnean’s Bistro in Blacklion owned by celebrity Chef nevin maguire .

oNe PerFeCt Day IN CaVaN

BEforE noon

WO ha rk O tH nDiC n yO u E G aP a r oL fc T Lu B

oon Ern aft LL o str

visit the marble arch Caves global geopark, the Burren Forest near Blacklion village and the Cavan County museum.

A FEW DAYS IN COUNTY CAVAN CAN BE A REAL TONIC FOR THE SOUL

patsy MoonEy sales manager aT The raDissOn Blu Farnham esTaTe hOTel, Cavan shares her insiDer TiPs

tE LtH HEa af e tHE at in Th T n spa er mi uiTe s WaT rmal The

MY CAVAN

TASTE, FEEL, ENJOY, RELAX ...

to in k eF ck Ea Be tu st irish k a esT E oa

ith its 365 lakes – ‘one for every day of the year’ – County Cavan in the province of Ulster is also known as Ireland’s Lakeland County. Rugged and mountainous in the northwest, its green landscape rolls away into gentle hills studded with villages to the south. It is a beautiful, rural place with some of Ireland’s finest countryside, ideal for exploring on foot, on horseback or by boat.

SOMETHING SPECIAL GEt your toEs tappinG From ballads to drinking songs, step dancing to jigs, music is part of the irish soul. go to a local music session, drink a beer or two and we guarantee you’ll be kicking your heels before the night is old. in Cavan town, the Farnham arms hotel hosts a weekly traditional music session on Wednesday nights.

rolling parkland. The COunTy Cavan gOlF CluB also has its own course nearby. One of the oldest in Ireland, it was founded in 1894 and moved to its present location in Drumelis in 1920. Over the years it has grown from a nine to an 18-hole parkland course with tees and greens to USGA standard.

023 EVEnt CalenDar MarcH sT PaTriCk’s

Day ParaDes Celebrate the patron saint of ireland’s special day with the locals

ClOugh OughTer CasTle

County Cavan is regarded as Ireland’s premier angling location. Famous for coarse and pike fishing, there are many fine and game angling river stretches and wild brown trout lake fisheries, including the famous lOugh sheelin brown trout fishery. There are also several angling centres here (see: www.cavantourism.com/ activities/Angling.aspx) that run angling festivals and competitions throughout the year for the match angler.

Eat The Oak rOOm

resTauranT 32 main st. +353 (0)49 437 14 14 www.theoakroom.ie

Buy LocaL Cavan

Dotted with shimmering lakes and rivers, County Cavan is a freshwater paradise. The rivers shannOn anD erne and the shannOnerne WaTerWay (the canal linking the two) can all be navigated by boat. You can spend hours here floating through peaceful countryside, passing pretty stone bridges, historical ruins and small villages. Cruisers can be hired from Emerald Star, or from Kingfisher Boating Holidays in Belturbet. Alternatively ask your concierge to organise a cruise for you.

onLy in caVan

CrysTal Design irish cut glass www.cavancrystaldesign.com

Music CruisCín lán

main st. +353 (0)49 436 5702. FesTival Discover the area Only on Wednesdays on shanks’ pony with local guides

apriL Cavan Walk

junE Cavan summer

FesTival a mid-summer's pageant, hen racing, stiltwalkers, fire-eaters, and lots more erne WaTerWays gOlF Challenge Three-day golf tournament over three magnificent parkland courses

Must sEE ClOugh

OughTer CasTle sited on an island in the middle of lough Oughter

art BlueWall arT sEptEMBEr mullagh gallery

Fair re-enactment of traditional fair events. includes butter churning, basket making, horse shoeing, prize cattle, horses & dogs, traditional music & dance

Corracanvy. +353 (0)49 436 1627 www.bluewallgallery.com

Drinks The BlaCk hOrse inn 2 Church st. +353 (0)49 433 21 40

The healTh sPa

wHere to Stay

How to get tHere

raDisson BLu farnHaM EstatE HotEL, caVan

rejuvenate on a 16th Century estate in 1,300 acres of grounds at radisson Blu Farnham estate hotel. This stunningly renovated country house hotel features three great restaurants and a bar as well as an 18-hole golf course and delicious spa with 19 treatment rooms.

raDissOn Blu Farnham esTaTe hOTel Photography: Cavan Tourism (2,3,9)

Farnham Estate, Cavan +353 4943 77 700 Other Radisson Blu hotels in Ireland: www.radissonblu.com/hotels/ireland

By Car: Cavan is located on the main n3 Dublin - Donegal road. it's a central point between Dublin, Belfast, galway and sligo. By Ferry anD Plane: it is less than

two hours from the ports in Dublin, Dun laoghaire and Belfast, and the airports of Belfast and Dublin.

caVan

Fishing On The lakes

A fine country estate, acres of rolling countryside, lakes, and ancient oak woodland is the setting for one of Ireland’s finest spas: The Farnham esTaTe healTh sPa. The world-class décor and facilities include 19 wet and dry treatment rooms, a beautiful outdoor infinity pool and a fully equipped gym with views across the park. An expert team of therapists are on hand to help you choose individual treatments to harmonise mind, body and soul. Try a session of yoga by the lake, a snail shower or a classic Finnish sauna, or intersperse your pampering with walking, horse-riding, fishing or golf and work up a healthy appetite for gourmet meals with fine wines in the evenings at one of the estate’s own restaurants.

024

short breaks

YOu aRe heRe: BerLin / madrid / ScandinaVia / duBai / hanSeaTic ciTieS / caVan /

iTaLy Tour / nice VS. caPe Town / durham / iSTanBuL / PariS

AMORE MIO

A ROMANTIC ROAD TRIP THROUGH

ITAlY II

III

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What cOulD Be MORe ROMantic than a ROaD tRip in a VintaGe cOnVeRtiBle thROuGh italY. staRtinG in ROMe, JOininG the Mille MiGlia ROute Via siena, FlORence anD MODena, then up tO Milan anD On tO VeROna OR paDua – a peRFect liFetiMe eXpeRience tO shaRe With that special peRsOn in YOuR liFe.

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he beauty of Italy has captured the hearts of travellers for centuries. Thanks to a wealth of historic cities, magnificent countryside and pretty villages, not to mention fabulous food and wine and the extrovert, irreverent reputation of its inhabitants, the Belpaese (‘Beautiful Country’) is just made to be travelled through. Our little road trip starts on two wheels in the Italian capital, then follows the legendary Mille Miglia part of the way up to Modena before branching off to Milan, via the city of star-cross’d lovers Verona and then on to the spa resort of Galzignano Terme. So cancel appointments and throw away the itinerary, scoop up your dearest one in your arms, hire yourself the sort of car you always wanted to drive, and follow our map and your hearts into the land of lovers. h

WHERE to Stay

Radisson Blu es. hotel, Rome Situated on the esquiline hill within walking distance of the colosseum and the roman Forum. This is an ideal base from which to explore the city.

Via Filippo Turati 171 / IT-00185 Rome-Italy +39 06 444 841 / www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome

Most of us have already fallen in love with the idea of Rome long before we ever see it: Think ‘La Dolce Vita’, with Anita Ekberg splashing in the Trevi Fountain, Michael Caine driving a mini down the Spanish Steps in the Italian Job or the immaculately dressed Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck zipping down the Via Nazionale on a scooter in ‘Roman Holiday’. Therefore, what better way to get you in the mood than a Vespa tour of Roman locations immortalised on celluloid? Bici & Baci (see box) offer evening ‘film’ tours on vinta-

RoME vS. BERlin scooters per 1000 residents

rome: 143.7

Berlin: 27

all

roAds lead

to rome

Satnav is for sissies, turn your italian journey into an adventure: buy a map and hire a vintage convertible for the duration – except when you are in roma – then only a VeSPa and nerves of steel will do! Try: SPrinTaGe www.sprintage.it Bici & Baci www.bicibaci.com or haPPyrenT www.happyrent.com

ge two-wheelers – with espresso stops included. Rome’s wealth of historical treasures can be overwhelming. For this part of your journey we recommend you leave your car or your Vespa in the parking lot and head to the morning market at the Piazza Campo dei Fiori to drink a cappuccino, buy a flower for your loved one and purchase a selection of delicious treats for a picnic. Then move on to the Foro Romano, the former heart of city life in ancient Rome. Cato and Cicero held forth here amongst the temples and basilica and it was from here that Caesar governed the once mighty empire. Then relax in the hillside Il Pinco park by the villa Borghese and enjoy the breathtaking views of the city from what was once one of the prime Roman real estate quarters. The aristocrat Lucillus, famed for his wealth and banquets owned land here. Then walk down to the oval-shaped, neo-classical Piazza del Popolo designed for Napoleon by Giuseppe Valadier in the early 19th Century. The obelisk in the centre of the square commemorates the conquest of Cleopatra’s Egypt by Augustus in 10 BC. Ponder here on the romantic liaison between Anthony and Cleopatra before heading off for a fruit sorbet at one of Rome’s most famous ice cream parlours, the Gelateria Giolitti – the champagne and the zabaglione flavours are particularly delicious. Then, cornet in hand, wander down the Via della Mercede towards the Spanish Steps at the Piazza di Spagna. If you have had your fill of classical splendour, now would be a good time to go to the Flaminio district to visit the amazing new Maxxi museum building, designed by star architect Zaha Hadid, that almost puts the comprehensive contemporary art collection it is built to house in the shade. Evenings in Rome hold plenty of romantic options, why not grab a bottle of wine and a pizza to go to the wonderful Giardino delli Arangi (Orange Garden) on the Aventin hill and sit and enjoy the breathtaking view of St. Peter’s Dome. Later on you could take your dearest to the Ponte Milvio, also known as ‘the Bridge of Love’, where young couples have started a tradition of affixing a padlock inscribed with their names to the railings and hurling the key in the Tiber as a symbol of their undying love (Important – you need to prepare for this one – don’t forget to bring your own inscribed padlock (P. 26) or your dearest may not be so impressed!).

aDDitiOnal TiPS

DininG

GuSTo an open-plan restaurant, wine bar and osteria with wooden floors, marble tabletops and industrialstyle lighting serving great pizzas and more.

+39 06 322 62 73 www.gusto.it

aRt

Via marGuTTa a whole street dedicated to art and galleries. Fellini lived here.

lOcal scene

explore the youthful San Lorenzo or TraSTeVere districts for dinner or shopping and Via Veneto for a more upmarket ‘La dolce Vita’ atmosphere.

sWeet tOOth

Said chocoLaTe FacTory a mecca for chocaholics and a winter alternative to an ice cream parlour: try the ricotta cheese or Japanese pink-tea pralines.

histORY

coLoSSeum The 2000 year old entertainment arena that could seat 50,000 fans of the roman equivalent of reality TV – simply jaw-dropping.

italY JOuRneY istanBul

The Journey BeGinS in rome

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YOu aRe heRe: BerLin / madrid / ScandinaVia / duBai / hanSeaTic ciTieS / caVan /

iTaLy Tour / nice VS. caPe Town / durham / iSTanBuL / PariS aDDitiOnal TiPS

From TuScany To miLan

hen you have drunk your fill of the delights of Rome it is time to get in the car and head up north through Tuscany, testing your touring skills along part of Italy’s Gran Torino. Between 1927 and 1957, the Milla Miglia (Thousand Miles) was a legendary open road endurance race where teams fought to cover the distance between Rome and Brescia and back in the fastest possible time. Enzo Ferrari called it “the most beautiful car race in the world” which is not surprising since some of the Porsches, Ferraris, Maseratis, Alfa Romeos, Lancias and BMWs that took part are still considered to be the finest ever created by mankind. The race was considered too dan-gerous and was banned in the 1950s but has since been revived as a vintage car rally in celebration of the golden age of car design. Your journey, however, is not a race against the

lunch

Bar deLLa croceTTa Serves panini to die for, there are over 100 different variations to choose from including wild venison and fresh mozzarella.

The mosT beautiful

car race

in the world

WHERE to Stay

Radisson Blu hotel, Milan a stay in milan requires a hotel with particular flair, the exclusive 4 star radisson Blu hotel makes a stylish base for enjoying all of milan’s urban attractions. highlights are the courtyard garden, swimming pool and elegant suite interiors.

Via Villapizzone, 24 20156 Milan – Italy / +39 (02) 3631888 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-milan

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Corso di Porta Romana 67 S +39 02 545 02 28

shOppinG

GaLLeria ViTTorio emanueLe ii one of the world’s finest glassed-roofed 19th century shopping arcades. home to Prada’s flagship store since 1913 and other luxury labels. don’t buy a coffee here if you are watching your budget.

Metropolitan SophiStication

italy vS. England coffee vs. Tea: The italians drink on average three cups of coffee per day but the english put away at least four mugs of their favourite beverage daily.

clock but a chance to enjoy some of Italy’s finest historical cities en route. Stop off in Siena and wander through its tiny medieval alleyways, visit the beautiful Duomo cathedral and the central Piazza del Campo – venue of the world’s most terrifying bareback horse race: the Palio held on the 2nd of July and 16th of August each year. Take a short detour to discover the Chianti Classico wine-growing region and visit a winery such as the Castello di Fonterutoli estate, then carry on up to Florence for a cold drink at sunset on the an-

henry Tsui / Shutterstock.com

GaLLeria ViTTorio emanueLe ii

cient Ponte Vecchio bridge. This beautiful city was home to the cream of the Italian Renaissance: Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raffaello, Donatello, and Brunelleschi all left their mark here. Visit the Uffizi and Fra Angelico’s chapel before devoting yourselves to the fine art of the automobile once again and journeying to the fabulous Ferrari museum at Maranello. Here you can try your hand at driving a Formula One racing car in one of their simulators. Leave your Testarossa daydreams and the Milla Miglia route behind you now to dive into the metropolitan sophistication of Milan. The capital of Lombardy and of Italian fashion is home to a sophisticated mix of history and high style. There are museums bursting with art to admire (Leonardo da Vinci painted his Last Supper here), you can take in an opera at the world-famous La Scala or burn holes in your credit card shopping for classy couture around the Via della Spiga. Dine on delicious Milanese cuisine in a traditional restaurant such as the Da Giacomo or the

miLan caThedraL

RestauRant

Fioraio Bianchi Top notch italian cuisine in a former flower shop in the fashionable Brera district.

Via Montebello, 7 +39 02 2901 43 90

OpeRa

La ScaLa For over 200 years La Scala has been synonymous with the very best of the operatic arts. Puccini, Verdi, rossini, Bellini and Salieri have all premiered here.

Via Filodrammatici 2 +39 02 887 91

DRinks

Bar Jamaica a great milanese bar that opened in 1911 in the Brera district, this former favourite haunt of the art crowd is now home from home to up-and-coming fashionistas. Via Brera 32

+39 02 8767 23

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Bathe in tranquility Radisson Blu spa & Golf Resort, padova

Radisson Blu spa & Golf Resort, padova

Trattoria Milanese and then contrast the experience with a meal or a drink at Dolce & Gabbana’s Gold – a concept interior (completely decorated in- you guessed it – gold) restaurant and bar that is a favourite with the Milanese fashion crowd.

Venice

eaving Milan you might want to head east to Verona for a romantic ride in a horse-drawn carriage and stop off at the famous balcony said to belong to Juliet in Shakespeare’s classic love story. From here it is only a short hop to Venice – but maybe it is better to save that for another romantic occasion all of its own and give your souls a chance to catch up after all that travelling instead at the spa town of Galzignano Terme. “Salus Per Aquam” - Health Through Water: Seeking out the health-giving properties of thermal springs has been popular since ancient times. The ancient Romans loved to build spas, and the bathing rituals in their thermal baths were considered the pinnacle of civilisation in their day. So after starting in Rome and journeying through Italy’s history it seems fitting to ‘do as the Romans do’ and end with today’s equivalent at Galzignano Terme in the Veneto district. Situated in a huge park, the spa’s six thermal pools are fed by 87°C mineral-rich waters from the

WHERE to Stay Radisson Blu spa & Golf Resort, padova Situated in a beautiful park in the euganean hills, a few kilometers from Padua and Venice. with its own Spa centre, swimming pools with thermal spa water, a golf course, 6 tennis courts, fitness centre with personal trainers and beauty centre it promises a holistic approach to rejuvenate the spirit.

Viale delle Terme, 84 / 35030 Galzignano Terme (Padova) – Italy + 39 (049) 194151 / www.radissonblu.com/majesticresort-galzignano

salus per

AquAm

volcanic earth below. There are also steam grottos and whirlpools and all manner of treatments available (see ‘where to stay’ for details). The local Euganean hills offer super walking opportunities and there is a 9-hole golf course in the park as well. A couple of days here should leave you refreshed in body and soul, but if, after that, you still feel the need to exercise your right to roam, then Venice, Padua and Vicenza are all under a 40 minutes away by car– so feel free to let the tour continue ...

a lovE affaiR WitH food The italians take their food very seriously and are connoisseurs of fine ingredients and regional specialities. when you travel through the country you are also taking a culinary journey so don’t just dine on pasta and pizza, there are so many other tastes to discover: Try polenta with cuttlefish and black ink sauce in Venice, a delicious ribollita bean soup in Tuscany or Spiedini alla romana (skewers of bread with mozzarella and warm anchovy sauce) in rome.

italY JOuRneY

SLow The Pace aT GaGLiziano Terme

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YOU ARE HERE: BERLIN / MADRID / SCANDINAVIA / DUBAI / HANSEATIC CITIES / CAVAN / ITALY TOUR /

NICE VS. CAPE TOWN / DURHAM / ISTANBUL / PARIS

WAKING UP IN

CAPE TOWN 33° 55 S, 18° 25 E

Brunch just has to be the best meal of the day: an extensive feast enjoyed at leisure with the day’s activities ahead your own to co h

WHERE TO STAY

RADISSON BLU HOTEL WATERFRONT, CAPE TOWN

Experience the best in coastal luxury at the Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront. Rooms and suites offer soothing views of the gorgeous sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.

HOW TO GET THERE

Beach Road, Granger Bay, 8002 Cape Town - South Africa +27 21 441 3000, www.radissonblu.com

AFTER BRUNCH, WHAT WOULD BE A PERFECT DAY IN CAPE TOWN FOR YOU?

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT CAPE TOWN?

Table Mountain, the meeting of two oceans (hot and cold! ), some of the best vineyards and wines in the world and a rich and diverse society all help make this a very exciting city to live in for me. GRANT KENNEDY

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE OUTDOOR EVENTS?

Cape Town is the kitchen garden of the world: we are really spoilt for choice.

The January Cape Minstrel Carnival: over 13,000 brightly dressed musical minstrels take to the streets – it’s a carnival like no other! Also the sunset concerts in Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens – a magnificent setting with the beauty and diversity of the Cape flora set against the mighty backdrop of Table Mountain. GK

BRUNCH MASTER

GK The Willow Creek olive oil and balsamic vinegar

collection made from our locally grown olives.

Grant Kennedy heads up the kitchen at the Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront, Cape Town. The secret to his dishes, he says, lies in the local ingredients: “Always fresh and seasonal, with no fussy preparation, allowing the flavours of our fantastic produce to shine through”.

GK The Old Biscuit Mill for a food explosion or Green

Market Square for African souvenirs.

Roasted asparagus salad with citrus dressing

GK Like spiced citrus tea.

Char grilled charma beef loin steaks with a fried egg and chakalaka relish KENNEDY’S BRUNCH CENTRES AROUND LIVE COOKING FROM THE BRAAI (BBQ) FLATTOP, FOR A DISTINCTIVE CAPE TOWN FLAVOUR

WHAT WOULD YOU BUY FOR A GOOD FRIEND AS A SOUVENIR FROM CAPE TOWN?

open bus city and Atlantic seaboard tour then head for the Durbaville wine route to explore the rich cultivars on our city’s doorstep and end on the coast at sunset sipping a cocktail.

CUSTOM BRUNCH Banana bread muffins

GRANT KENNEDY

SOUTH AFRICAN WINES ARE WORLD-FAMOUS, CAN YOU RECOMMEND A LOCAL SELECTION?

There are so many stunning wines here! I personally love boutique wines like D’Aria Blush, I pair it with braised warthog and conchiglie pasta. The white Welbedacht Myra is heaven with sole and langoustine en papillote, the red Chamonix Greywacke is great with braised lamb shank or the Anthonij Rupert Optima with mature Chalmar beef fillet.

GK Up Table Mountain followed by a hop on, hop off,

WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE MARKETS?

CAPE TOWN

DESCRIBE YOUR PERFECT CAPE TOWN BRUNCH?

Definitely on our terrace deck at the Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront, by the pier, overlooking the Atlantic. I would display the boundless varieties of Cape Town’s natural fruits, carved to order and serve our custom brunch...[see box].

The Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront is situated by the Atlantic Ocean, 20 minutes from Cape Town International Airport, within walking distance of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and a ten-minute drive from the central business district.

IF CAPE TOWN WERE A FLAVOUR OR SCENT, HOW WOULD IT TASTE OR SMELL?

WHICH OTHER VENUES IN TOWN OFFER THE BEST OF LOCAL CUISINE?

The Gold Restaurant for a true African experience, the Eastern Food Bazaar to get a feeling of Cape Malay food at ground level and Moyo at Spier to understand the spirit of Africa. GK

WHERE OR WHAT IS YOUR SPECIAL PLACE? GK Sitting on the beach at Eden on the Bay, looking at

Table Mountain and watching the sun go down over Robben Island with a glass of Beyerskloof Pinotage! WHAT DISHES SHOULD ONE DEFINITELY TRY WHEN VISITING CAPE TOWN? GK Snoek Shebeko / Shutterstock.com

Braai with apricot glaze, buttermilk, dried apricot and rosemary pot bread, Cape Malay curry and Waterblommetjie Breedie stew.

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WAKING UP IN

NICE 43° 42 N, 7° 16 O

mmand. We ask two Chefs de Cuisine from two stunning seaside locations to sing the praises of their respective local hemispheres.

WHERE TO STAY

RADISSON BLU HOTEL, NICE

This Cote d’Azur hotel affords dazzling views of the Mediterranean coast. Relax on a sunbed, enjoy a cocktail and recharge amidst the stunning scenery.

HOW TO GET THERE

Promenade des Anglais, 223 F- 06200 Nice - France +33 4 9717 7177, www.radissonblu.com

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT NICE?

Its warm welcome in one of the most beautiful parts of the world and its diversity: during the summer you can go fishing and diving or visit the Mercantour National Park in the Provence Alpes of the Côte d’Azur, in the winter you can enjoy a sunny day at the Baie des Anges or be up skiing in the snow in the mountains within an hour. CHRISTOPHE BROUTIN

The scent of the sea, the flavour of rosemary, thyme, olives and wild mountain flowers and a sensation of perfect happiness

WHAT DO YOU LOVE THE MOST ABOUT FOOD IN NICE?

CB The food culture here is amazing, from the humble

CÔTE D’AZUR

CUSTOM BRUNCH

bistro to the 3 star Michelin restaurant, choosing where to eat can be your most difficult decision of the day!

Ideal Brunch is first with Champagne

CB The Cours Saleya flower market with olive oils and

Seafood buffet

CHRISTOPHE BROUTIN BRUNCH ARTISTE

There are traditional markets almost every day at the various main squares in town. Where you can find local seasonal fruits and vegetables, freshly caught fish of the day, and the best butchers of the town. WHAT IS A CULINARY SPECIALITY OF NICE?

CB Socca: a small, succulent, savoury pancake made

from chickpea flour and olive oil and baked on an open fire or in the oven. Photography: J. Konrad Schmidt (1)

Lobster stew with fresh fried vegetables . Ice cream corner and Fruit Kebab around chocolate fountain

Eating brunch on our rooftop terrace by the pool at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Nice of course! CB

WHAT INGREDIENTS DO YOU NEED FOR A PERFECT BRUNCH IN NICE?

CB Champagne and sea food of course, with inter-

action between guests and chefs and perhaps an artist and a jazz band. [See box for a Nice brunch menu]. AND THE PERFECT APRÈS BRUNCH DRINK?

A “La Vie en Rose” cocktail, made with pink champagne and fresh raspberry juice by the pool. EVERYONE KNOWS THE FAMOUS SALADE NIÇOISE, WHAT OTHER LOCAL DISHES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?

Fish, fish and more fish! From grilled sea bass to red mullet or, even better, John Dory, you will find many perfect ways to experience fish in Nice. CB

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR PERFECT EVENING?

CB Just a nice dinner at one of the good restaurants

WHERE ARE THE BEST PLACES TO GO FOOD SHOPPING IN NICE? CB

THE MORNING LIGHT IS PARTICULARLY ATMOSPHERIC IN NICE, WHERE WOULD BE THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY IT?

WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVOURITE SIGHTS IN YOUR CITY?

other products from local producers in the typical streets between Place Massena and the Old Town. The six miles of seafront at our Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) are a pleasure to stroll along. The culture here is great too, with museums, exhibitions, theatre and concerts – there is something for everyone.

Just five minutes from Nice International Airport and ten minutes from the nearest train station, this luxury hotel makes commuting easy. Situated between the romantic Old Town and the Arenas Business Park, the hotel is the perfect starting point for exploring the city and the destination.

Christophe Broutin is Executive Chef at the Radisson Blu Hotel Nice. He puts the secret to his success in his own kitchen down to “working only with only very fresh and premium products, then honouring them with perfect cooking and only a light dressing or sauce”.

in Nice with a view of the Baie des Anges and then finish with a firework display, like we do on Bastille Day in July. IF NICE WERE A FLAVOUR OR SCENT, HOW WOULD IT TASTE OR SMELL?

The scent of the sea brought by a light breeze under the sun, the flavour of rosemary, thyme, olives and wild mountain flowers, the taste of life and a sensation of perfect happiness. CB

NICE VS. CAPE TOWN

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YOU ARE HERE: BERLIN / MADRID / SCANDINAVIA / DUBAI / HANSEATIC CITIES / CAVAN / ITALY TOUR / NICE VS. CAPE TOWN /

DURHAM / ISTANBUL / PARIS

QUINTESSENTIALLY ENGLISH: the

DURHAM EXPERIENCE

EXPLORE THE TIMELESS QUALITY OF ONE OF BRITAIN’S MOST BEAUTIFUL CITIES WHOSE THOUSAND YEAR OLD ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDOUR IS AS LOVED AND NURTURED BY ITS RESIDENTS AS THE THRIVING LOCAL CUISINE, CRAFTS, GARDENS AND CULTURAL HERITAGE

A REA C TT KF BA AF HE AS KE É O VE T N N D N F BR R E EA ES LS D H

W HO AS IN LA E A K TA HE F E T AT EATR TH

N VE

TASTE, FEEL, ENJOY, RELAX ...

ONE PERFECT DAY IN DURHAM

VISI

THE S WA AUTOM N A AT THE TON BOWE S MUSE UM

O CAF AT

CH GAME N L ES LUN LOCAE BOW

D TRO 21 AT BIS AL, IC CLASS D ED AN RELAX TABLE R COMFO

HT LIG NER IN

AFT

ERN FR O OO TH A A N E RIV BOAT ER WE AR

SOMETHING SPECIAL tea time Afternoon Tea is a great British institution. Taken between 3 and 5pm, tea is traditionally served with delicate sandwiches containing egg and cress, smoked salmon or cucumber followed by a piece of cake or scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. The Café Bowes puts on a fine teatime spread.

he United Kingdom has plenty of picturesque towns worth visiting and many thousands travel to see cities such as Oxford, Cambridge, Bath and Edinburgh every year. Why not try somewhere different for a change? Voted ‘Best city in the UK’ in a Condé Nast Traveller reader survey, Durham, in the north east of England has just about everything you could wish for as a short break British city destination. This quintessentially English university city has cobbled streets winding through an ancient and beautiful town centre that perches high above a loop in the river Wear. The magnificent Norman cathedral and castle dominate the city skyline and are UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites, but Durham is no dusty museum. In the Vennels, the tiny winding little streets around the centre, you will find boutiques, galleries, tiny cafes and restaurants as well as shops selling local delicacies such as Durham Cow blue cheese, and the covered market is alive with banter and stallholders selling regional produce and crafts. Also in town you can tour the university buildings and visit the very splendid Oriental Museum and the Botanic Gardens. Or forget the shopping and take a rowing boat out onto the river Wear, or travel out to one of the many beautiful country estates, gardens and places of natural beauty in the surrounding Dales.

WHY I LOVE DURHAM SHEILA DIXON OUR INSIDER SHEILA DIXON WORKS AT THE BOWES MUSEUM IN BARNARD CASTLE, COUNTY DURHAM

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT DURHAM?

SD I have lived here for over 30 years and never fail to be

amazed by the beauty and treasures, both natural and man-made, of the city and the whole county. The city is a wonderful mix of the old, dominated by the splendour of the cathedral, and the new, like the Gala theatre. I also love the friendliness and welcoming attitude of the people here. WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE ‘SPECIAL PLACE’?

SD Apart from the Bowes Museum, one of the places that

inspires me is Egglestone Abbey. It is a ruin now, but a very peaceful place to sit and while away an afternoon. WHAT IS A PERFECT EVENING FOR YOU?

SD A glass of single malt whisky, enjoyed by a roaring fire

in one of our local inns after a bracing winter walk on our fabulous Teesdale fells.

In Durham you get two for the price of one when it comes to world-class historical architecture: DURHAM CATHEDRAL is regarded as the finest Norman building in Europe and it really is breathtakingly magnificent. From its hillside vantage position it towers over the surrounding countryside and must have struck awe into the

THE BOWES MUSEUM Photography: The Bowes Museum (2)

EVENT CALENDAR April BISHOP AUCKLAND FOOD FESTIVAL IN THE DURHAM DALES Delight the taste buds May–June NORTHERN ROCKS The North Pennines Festival of Geology and Landscape

ONLY IN DURHAM Buy Local BROOM MILL FARM SHOP West Auckland, Lower Teesdale www.broommillfarm.co.uk Eat EL COTO 17 Hallgarth Street +44(0)191 384 4007

June DURHAM FESTIVAL AND REGATTA The premier rowing event in the North East of England

July BRASS: DURHAM INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Traditional brass bands meet jazz, funk and ska August STREETS OF... SUMMER FESTIVALS Musicians, dancers and buskers from around the world November LUMIERE Durham’s festival of light with artworks, projections and performances

RABY CASTLE

TEA DURHAM DALES CENTRE TEA ROOM Castle Gardens +44 01388 527650 Market DURHAM INDOOR MARKET Market Place www.durhammarkets.co.uk Eat GOURMET SPOT The Avenue +44 0191 384 6655 www.gourmet-spot.co.uk Gardens CROOK HALL www.crookhallgardens.co.uk

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vanquished Britons when the Normans erected it in the 11th Century. Both St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede, author of the first English history, are buried between the huge drum columns and soaring stone vaulted ceiling of the nave.

DURHAM CASTLE was commissioned as a fortress stronghold by William the Conqueror in 1072, and went on to become the main palace of the powerful Prince Bishops of Durham for many centuries. For nearly a thousand years it has housed a succession of thriving communities and today it is home to students of Durham University’s University College as well as a museum. The Great Hall built in 1284 is now the student’s dining hall and the extensive kitchens built in 1499 are still in use – albeit with one or two added mod cons. The castle’s Norman chapel with its beautifully sculpted pillars is particularly worth seeing.

DURHAM CASTLE

For a full immersion historical experience, you can take a tram ride into the past at BEAMISH, an open air museum that recreates life in the North East in Edwardian, Victorian and Georgian times. Here you can walk around the shops and houses of the Edwardian Town or visit the drift mine and miners’ cottages in the Pit Village, ride a steam train or a steam-driven funfair carousel. You can also meet people who lived and worked in the past: Talk to the dentist, the school teacher, miners and a pitman’s wife and discover what life was really like. The BOWES MUSEUM, on the other hand, is a much more tranquil affair. Housed in a Grade 1 listed French-style chateau set in charming grounds in the nearby market town of Barnard Castle, it is one of the most important UK museums outside of London, housing some of the best examples of European fine and decorative arts in the country, including works by Goya, El Greco and Canaletto. It also has a very excellent café. If you still have time in hand then RABY CASTLE is well worth a visit too: splendid interiors and art collection housed in one of Britain’s finest medieval fortified buildings.

DURHAM CATHEDRAL

FACTS & FIGURES Durham's cathedral and castle were amongst the very first designated World Heritage Sites, along with the Taj Mahal and Palace of Versailles.

CROOK HALL Photography: Visit County Durham (5,8)

WHERE TO STAY

HOW TO GET THERE

RADISSON BLU HOTEL, DURHAM

BY TRAIN: Three hours by high speed train from London. BY AIR: Durham is easily accessible from Newcastle and Durham Tees Valley Airports.

Frankland Lane DH1 5TA Durham + 44 (191) 3727200 www.radissonblu.com/hotels/ united-kingdom/durham

DURHAM

THE BEAMISH MUSEUM

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You are here: berlin / madrid / scandinavia / dubai / hanseatic cities / cavan / italy tour / nice vs. cape toWn / durham /

istanbul / paris

Istanbul Young heart City with a and an

oldsouL

vitaly titov & maria sidelnikova / shutterstock.com

With its fabled blend of orient and occident; steeped in history, yet buzzing With youthful exuberance, istanbul is rich in contrast and one of the World’s most exciting places to visit.

his great trading city, formerly known as Byzantium and then Constantinople, is accustomed to being the centre of attention: in a history that stretches over a thousand years, it has been the capital of the Roman, Byzantine, Latin and Ottoman empires respectively. Since ceding its status as Turkey’s principal city to Ankara in 1923 after the War of Independence, Istanbul appeared to lose some of its shine, but thanks to amazing economic growth over the last decade and a flourishing, extremely young population of some 13 million it can still lay claim to being one of the largest cities in the world, and, most importantly of all, the up-and-coming new party capital of Europe. Istanbul has something to offer even the most demanding of travellers. It is the perfect city to visit if you want to experience a wealth of Byzantine, Ottoman, Genoese, Roman, Greek and even contempora-

01 Nightclubs anjelique: popular in the summer with the incrowd and international djs this indoor/outdoor three storey club/bar/ restaurant is furnished by local design darlings autoban.

www.istanbuldoors.com

indigo: the city’s leading electronic music club situated in little alley in beyo lu gets pretty packed in the winter time.

www.livingindigo.com

nardis jazz club: housed in a former carpentry workshop near the galata tower, this is the place to get a taste of the local jazz scene.

www.nardisjazz.com

ry architecture in one place. The Hagia Sophia is - rightly so - one of the great architectural wonders of the world, not to mention the Blue Mosque, the beautifully renovated Topkapi Place in the Sultanahmet district and the magnificent Bosphorus Bridge spanning Asia and Europe. The city also has a superb array of markets selling fine handcrafts, food, fabrics and spices. The café culture and cuisine, notably in the lively Beyoğlu district, is well established and the comparatively new rooftop and waterside bars and clubs dotted around the city with its skyline of exotic minarets and domes offer a party setting almost beyond compare. Istanbul is on the same latitude as New York – the summers are sweltering but in winter you can really feel the chill. The city’s nightlife agenda is therefore a seasonal affair. In the winter you may want to cosy up with little dishes of Turkish specialities in the warren of rooms at a lively traditional res(P. 06) taurant such as Sanat in

033

starboard restaurant radisson blu bosphorus hotel

our IstanBul InsIders are turKeY’s toP Young desIgners autoBan autobaN

established in 2003 by seyhan Özdemir and sefer Ça lar, autoban is a design studio operating in the fields of interior design, architecture and product development.

What are the 3 thiNgs You like the most about istaNbul?

ab chaos! there are no rules, no order and no boundaries in istanbul, which is great from a creative viewpoint. if you can use this chaos effectively in your work, it is impossible to be unsuccessful. there are lots of cultural differences here and a great mixture of people. in istanbul you are always being faced with something new and exciting.

What is the esseNce of istaNbul for You?

anjelique nightclub

ab our istanbul is an old city with history, chaos, contrasts, memories,

unexpectedness, speed, incompleteness, the bosphorus and the ferries.

What makes it special compared to other cities?

ab istanbul is a historical place, one that has been built layer upon layer over time. the influences from both east and West make it a very unique city compared to the rest of europe.

bars & restauraNts istanbul dining is all about the three vs: vino, victuals and vistas. here is a choice of eateries with fine views:

Where do You go to be iNspired?

ab for inspiration we go to the old part of the city: the harems of

topkapı palace or the balat district as well as to streets where you can still find the old manufacturers.

the 360 istanbul is situated on top of a 19th century house in the beyog˘lu district. +90 212 2511042

Where are Your favourite Nightspots?

ab zuma (www.zumarestaurant.com), münferit and babylon

www.360istanbul.com

in changa (www.changaistanbul.com) your view is through a glass roof into the heart of the kitchen. a contemporary turkish/ international fusion cuisine devised by chef peter gordon plus stunning interior makes this one of the finest restaurants in town. +90 212 2517064

ulus 29 restaurant

istaNbul

+90 212 3582929 www.club29.com

vitaly titov & maria sidelnikova / shutterstock.com

(www.babylon.com.tr/tr/anasayfa/) in the winter (we like to drink gingerberry cockails in münferit) and the house café ortaköy (www.thehousecafe.com), anjélique (www.istanbuldoors.com) or otto (www.ottoistanbul.com) in the summer.

the name of the ulus 29 restaurant and bar refers to the 29 traditional ottoman and east mediterranean dishes on the menu – although you can eat japanese or french food here as well.

034

short breaks

You are here: berlin / madrid / scandinavia / dubai / hanseatic cities / cavan / italy tour / nice vs. cape toWn / durham /

eveNt calendar

the Beyoğlu district (www. sanatgroup.com). Then perhaps its time to squeeze into and packed club such as the Indigo or the Roxy and warm the cockles of your heart in the ebullient Turkish party atmosphere. In the summer, the terrace is the thing. You pick your venue not just according to cocktails and quality of décor, but for the size of the terrace and the perfection of the panorama. A private boat trip to a leisurely sunset dinner in a fish restaurant overlooking the Bos-

februarY

istanbul fashion Week still in its infancy, this fashion event looks set to find its place the international fashion calendar

basilica cistern

SPeCIal SIgHtS

the blue mosque was designed by mehmet aga in the early 17th century for sultan ahmed as a muslim place of worship to match the hagia sophia in splendour. With its waterfall of domes and slender minarets, it is an impressive fusion of ottoman and byzantine architecture. the ornate blue tiles lining the interior are truly magnificent.

phorus such as Körfez is a lovely way to start the evening. Then decamp to a bar tour including venues such as the Mikla, Ulus 29, Vogue or 360 Istanbul and the night in the ‘City of World’s Desire’ is yours.

the basilica cistern or yerebatan sernici, situated near the hagia sophia, is the largest of several hundred ancient underground cisterns built to irrigate the gardens of constantinople. it is also called ‘the sunken palace’ and with a ceiling supported by some 336 giant marble columns it is a truly impressive sight.

april istanbul film festival held in cinemas across the city to promote national and international filmmaking basilica cistern

blue mosque hagia sofia

a re N k t t ak d fa o itc h st br n h he e ea om Ne d e tt an m e d ade ca ke s

aN re al f er samd etil our y ask ierge to ble a c con you a t k boo

www.yerebatan.com

se b co

www.iksv.org/bienal/english

kaNYoN shoppiNg mall for a contemporary take on bazaars

s- e bo th k e c th romi do on s f tt r de u a Ye ri or aZ h ari ph og o s b pt u

admire th spleNdid e deca

ZZ at t he ba bY lo N turkis live J h a at grand the

d aN ee ff va co kla café inr bathe fes bazaa

deNce an dold stop pal mabahat the ace c t to e h e dec splen admir e d ade nce id

rr Y

IStaNbul vS. bosporus bridge (istaNbul): 1,510 m

ZeleZNicNi bridge (prague): 1,100 m

loNdoN bridge (loNdoN): 262 m poNt Neuf (paris): 232 m the bosphorus suspension bridge (bo aziçi köprüsü ) connects europe and asia across the bosphorus strait and was completed in 1973.

July istanbul jazz festival hosting top jazz artists from all over the world since 1986 september istanbul art biennale ranks alongside venice, sydney and sao paolo as one of the world’s most prestigious art biennales.

the oNe broWse tic futuris PerFeCt day IN IStaNbul ta ke

international gastronomy festival 300 international chefs show their skills in 20 kitchens – watch out for the upcoming young turks. www.istanbul-

gastronomyfestival.com/tr

there is no way around a visit to the hagia sophia, it really is breathtaking. a byzantine masterpiece, was the largest church in the world for over 1000 years before being converted into a mosque by the ottomans in 1453. in 1935 the founder of the turkish republic mustafa kemal atatürk secularised it and converted it into a museum.

Istanbul has something to offer even the most demanding of travellers

d aN eriNg N N di ubb at cl sco

istanbul / paris

istanbul spices

markets & baZaars

a tip about markets: practice haggling but don’t be rude, and don’t impulse-buy – you may find the same thing three stalls down for a better price. istanbul is home to one of the largest covered markets in the world: the fabulous grand bazaar, renowned for its jewellery, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antiques as well as rather nice leather goods. (www.grandbazaaristanbul.org). for a taste of the ancient orient try the egyptian market which sells traditional venetian and genoese medicinal plants and spices, amongst others. treat yourself to some fresh turkish delight here. the new besiktas fish market designed by local architects gad is a lovely example of ancient meets contemporary in a neighbourhood undergoing rapid urban renewal and also well worth a look.

the istanbul modern

MuSeuMS & gallerIeS istanbul has very much made its mark on the international contemporary art and design scenes in recent years. the istanbul modern (www.istanbulmodern.org) is well worth a visit in this respect and so too the small haaz design and art gallery located in the te vikiye shopping district – look out for pieces by local designers autoban and gaia & gino. on the historical side, there are three museums to be found in the extensive complex of the topkapi palace: museum of the ancient orient, museum of ceramics, museum of grecoroman and egyptian antiquities. it’s worth asking your concierge to help arrange a private guide to take you through particular highlights such as the magnificent tiled pavilion and to pick a time for you when it’s not so packed.

www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr

get a bird’s eYe vieW

the ancient maiden’s toWer or kiz kulesi, was first built by the athenians in 408 bc on a small island at the entrance to the bosphorus strait. many centuries and rebuilds later, this former watchtower now houses a restaurant and café accessible by private boat. from here you can soak up the history of this city that was once the centre of the world. for a commanding view of the golden horn ascend to the viewing gallery of the galata tower built by the genoese in 1348 and still one of istanbul’s most striking landmarks.

photography: istanbul modern (6)

035 Special

model photo: colourbox.com

additioNal tips

courtYard café vs. suNset grill

the courtyard café caferaga medresesi in the sultanahmet district is housed in a former ottoman religious school built in 1559. hidden from the tourist hordes, it is a perfect place to rest after seeing the big sights. sunset grill and bar a hillside garden terrace with a beautiful bosphorus view and an upmarket clientele makes this an attractive summer spot for steak, seafood or sushi. the legendary wine list is perhaps the best in town. booking is essential.

hammam vs. spa

special experieNce

the turks love their food and they love it fresh. With all the food markets, fish, herbs, spices, fruit and local vegetables on offer any visitor with even a slight aptitude for cooking will find their fingers itching to get into the kitchen. so why not take a short course in turkish cuisine at the istanbul culinary institute? over a few hours or a few days you can delve into the delights of meze menus, seasonal cooking, olive oil and much more.

contemporary fashion designer ümit ünal is worth scoping out on tünel square.

www.umitunal.com

thiNgs to do for 10 euros

More IStaNbul films to Watch

topkapi (1965, dir: jules dassin) and crossing the bridge (2005, dir: fatih akin)

books to read

my name is red by orhan pamuk (vintage) and agatha christie is said to have written murder on the orient express in her room 411 at the pera palas hotel

stock up on spices at the egyptian market buy the best baklava in the city at karaköy güllüoglu

www.karakoygulluoglu.com

local listiNgs aNd eNglish-laNguage NeWspaper

hürriyet daily neWs & economic revieW newspaper

www.hurriyetdailynews.com

wHere to Stay

How to get tHere

located on the shores of the bosphorus strait, just minutes from the district of ortaköy, one of the city's most popular hotspots.

also:

radissoN blu coNfereNce & airport hotel radissoN blu hotel, istaNbul asia (opening end 2011) photography: cagaloglu hamami (8)

www.alaturcahouse.com

www.istanbulculinary.com

radissoN blu bosphorus hotel

radisson blu bosphorus hotel

if you are in the market for fine kilims or anatolian antiques, then call for an appointment at a la turca in cukurcuma.

the addres istanbul mall houses 40 retailers, selling international as well as turkish brands.

istanbul abounds with turkish baths or hammams of varying quality. the marble-domed steam room of the famous and palatial cagaloglu hamami built in 1741 will take you back to a bygone age. almost every new hotel in the city has its own spa and many are very good. unwind with a variety of treatments at the radisson blu bosporus spa and relax in the luxurious ambience of its wellness and beauty centre with steam bath, sauna, jacuzzi or gym. a massage is a must.

shoppiNg

www.radissonblu.com/hotels/ istanbul/turkey

directioNs from ataturk airport

taxis take 35 min travel time. the light rail transit (lrt) runs between the airport and the zeytinburnu stop. at this stop, disembark and then board the tram towards sultananhmet. ride the tram until the last stop - kabatas. exit the tram and board bus 25a or 22 until Çiragan cad road, then look for the hotel on the right side. or try the pick-up via the hotel's private boat taxi and cruise down the bosphorus strait to the hotel.

istaNbul

old verSuS New

istanbul’s mix of east and West, old and new, young and old is what makes it so special. here’s how to experience the contrasts.

036

short breaks

YOU ARE HERE: BERLIN / MADRID / SCANDINAVIA / DUBAI / HANSEATIC CITIES / CAVAN / ITALY TOUR / NICE VS. CAPETOWN / DURHAM / ISTANBUL /

PARIS

PERSON PER PE R N IN

THE INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER KRISTIAN SCHULLER AND HIS ART DIRECTOR WIFE PEGGY KNOW A THING OR TWO ABOUT THE BEAUTIFUL LIFE. TWO YEARS AGO THEY DECIDED TO MAKE THE CITY OF PARIS THEIR PERMANENT HOME. HERE IN AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH RADISSON BLU SHORT BREAKS THEY SHARE THE SECRETS OF THEIR LOVE AFFAIR WITH THIS ALLURING CITY.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED IN PARIS?

We moved to the 11th Arrondissement permanently two years ago but have had a pied-àterre in Paris for over seven years. KRISTIAN SCHULLER

WHY THE 11TH ARRONDISSEMENT? PEGGY SCHULLER It is the quartier on the

Rive Droite where all the creatives live. There are lots of big photographer’s studios in the area. It is a very likeable neighbourhood: very young and a bit funky and crazy – like the Marais quartier used to be in the 1980s until everyone left because it got so full of tourists. Also it is one of the few districts where you can get a loft, which is exactly what we wanted: a place to live and work. Our studio is in a former fabric warehouse. WHERE IS THE PLACE THAT INSPIRES YOU MOST?

This is totally kitsch: I was eleven when my father took me to Paris for the very first time and that damned Eiffel Tower just completely blew me KS

ABOUT KRISTIAN SCHULLER Kristian Schuller is a fashion photographer based in Paris. Born in Romania, he emigrated to Germany with his family as a child. He studied fashion design with Vivienne Westwood, where he met his wife Peggy, and photography with F.C. Gundlach at the University of the Arts in Berlin. An early recommendation from fashion muse Isabella Blow brought him to the attention of Condé Nast in London and since then he has worked for a whole gamut of top fashion magazines and advertising clients all over the world. His first book ‘90 Days, One Dream’, published in 2010, earned him a silver medal at the German Photography Book Awards 2011.

away – I just looked at it and couldn’t believe it. From the age of fifteen onwards I was here every year – we always stayed at least one night on the way to our holidays. Then I just came at every opportunity I got – I even slept in a telephone box once because I had no money. I found it so fantastic just to be here. And every time I came, I simply had to walk miles on foot just to see the Eiffel Tower, and then I was happy. WHEN YOU NEED FRESH INSPIRATION OR JUST A CHANGE OF SCENERY WHERE DO YOU GO?

My best strategy is to go jogging and soak up the atmosphere of city. Sometimes I go to the Eiffel Tower (yes, still!) at the other end of town late in the evening and jog the nine kilometres back along the Seine to the Bastille and then back home through the 11th. In summer the bridges are full of people, sitting out on the edges with their wine and their picnics, it’s such an easy-going atmosphere, like swallows’ nesting – just wonderful. You get a similar kind of feeling at the KS

WHERE TO STAY

Radisson Blu Ambassador Hotel, Paris Opera Radisson Blu Hotel Champs Elysees, Paris Radisson Blu Le Dokhan's Hotel, Paris Trocadero Radisson Blu Le Metropolitan Hotel, Paris Eiffel Radisson Blu Hotel, Paris-Boulogne

www.radissonblu.com/hotels/france/paris

HOW TO GET THERE

Paris has two international airports: PARIS ROISSY CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT and PARIS ORLY AIRPORT. Or take the Thalys/Eurostar trains. For information check:

www.aeroportsdeparis.fr www.thalys.com, www.eurostar.com

037

KRISTIAN AND PEGGY’S PARIS TIPS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES

1, Avenue Géneral Eisenhower www.grandpalais.fr

that you might meet Audrey Hepburn or a bunch of existentialist poets around the next corner. WHICH RESTAURANT SERVES THE BEST FRUITS DE MER? KS There’s a really great smart restaurant called Le

PALAIS DE TOKYO The place for contemporary art in Paris

Vaudeville that I often send people to – including my old tutor F.C. Gundlach [the legendary German fashion photographer] when he was here. La Coupole in the 14th Arr. is a real classic and Mollard in the Rue St. Lazare is good too.

YOUR FAVOURITE FRENCH WORD?

GALERIE NATIONALE DU JEU DE PAUME Houses the national photography collection – well worth a visit

Canal Saint-Martin between the 10th and 11th Arrondissements. Now that Paris has discovered the bicycle and I have brought my old one over from Germany, I am constantly discovering new places. WHAT MAKES PARIS UNIQUE FOR YOU?

29, Rue Vivienne +331 40 20 04 62

LA COUPOLE Famous brasserie, yummy fruits de mer

102, Boulv. de Montparnasse +331 43 20 14 20

There’s no other city, apart from Barcelona perhaps, where it is so lovely to sit out at a table in front of a café and to work, sketch or read with life just buzzing all around you – such pulsating life.

MOLLARD Good brasserie with lovely décor

WHICH PARTICULAR CAFÉ DO YOU HAVE IN MIND?

CHEZ OMAR Superb steak and couscous 47, Rue Bretagne +331 42 72 36 26

When you feel like taking a break from being trashy and putting on a smart suit and shirt for a change then go and sit outside at Café de Flore and you will be reminded of what an incredibly chic city Paris can be. The complete opposite, for a really relaxed and charming local feeling, would be Zagros here in the 11th , which has a sweet terrace. KS

WHAT IS THE MOST ROMANTIC THING YOU CAN DO IN PARIS?

To share a plate of fruits de mer (seafood) and some good wine with someone you love, and then, go for a walk together afterwards, slightly tipsy, under blanket of stars – it doesn’t really matter where to – like in a 1950s film, you have the feeling here PS

Photography: Damien Lafargue (2), Kristian Schuller (5)

115, Rue St.Lazare +331 43 87 55 62

BRASSERIE BOFINGER Very lovely interior near the Bastille

5 et 7, Rue de la Bastille +331 42 728 782 AU TROU NORMAND In the Oberkampf area - very simple, very French

9, Rue J.P. Timbaud +331 43 57 39 62

RESTAURANT ZAGROS Greek/Kurdish food and a lovely local atmosphere

58 Boulevard de Ménilmontant +331 48 07 09 56

LE PROGRES A blend of tradition and fashionistas in the Marais district

1, Rue de Bretagne +331 42 72 01 44

CAFE DE FLORE Chic and stylish

172 Boulevard Saint-Germain +331 01 45 48 55 26

Place de la Concorde +33 1 47 03 12 50

LE VAUDEVILLE Classic brasserie by the stockmarket

12, Rue de la Fidélité +331 47 70 19 34

CAFES

13, Avenue du Président Wilson +33 1 47 23 54 01 palaisdetokyo.com

RESTAURANTS

LA FIDELITE Lovely space in an alternative neighbourhood

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO GO OUT IN THE EVENINGS?

Oh that’s fairly easy: to restaurants that let you take your time over your meal. Neither Peggy nor I are great clubbers. We prefer to go with a bunch of friends to the second sitting in a restaurant together. There are two evening sittings in restaurants here: the first is at 8pm, the second at 10pm. If you go to the second you can stay and talk, and talk until the lights go out and the waiters want to go home. I hardly ever go anywhere where you have to stand in long queues to get in and once inside all you can hear is boom, boom, boom – I just don’t need it. The only time I ever stayed out until 6am here was in REX, and that was because Eva Padberg was DJing. I am just too fond of getting up early!

NIGHTCLUB

WHERE DO YOU FIND THE BEST SMALL SHOPS AND BOUTIQUES? KS The real gems are in the 6th Arr. between Boule-

vard St. Germain-des-Prés and Jardin Luxembourg down to the Seine. The Palais de Tokyo is also great, especially if you like browsing through magazines and my favourite bookshop is Artcurial on the Avenue Montaigne. TELL US A FEW OF THE THINGS YOU LOVE TO DO IN PARIS

Sitting in the Parc du Champ de Mars by the Ecole Militaire, because, strangely, there are hardly any tourists there – just French families picnicking. You can see the Eiffel Tower through the trees too. Or a long, late breakfast at the Centre Pompidou reading the paper and then visiting the (P. 38) KS

REX CLUB Endless queues at the door, which means it must be good

5, Boulevard Poissonnière www.rexclub.com

FLEAMARKET LE MARCHE AUX PUCES ST-OUEN DE CLIGNANCOURT Paris’ most famous fleamarket – absolute heaven for magpies

Av. de la Porte de Clignancourt www.marchesauxpuces.fr

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE ARTCURIAL Wide choice of books covering 20th Century Art, Fashion, Photography.

7, Rond-point des Champs-Élysées www.librairie.artcurial.com

PARIS

GRAND PALAIS The 19th Century steel and glass roof is a masterpiece in its own right

038

short breaks

YOU ARE HERE: BERLIN / MADRID / SCANDINAVIA / DUBAI / HANSEATIC CITIES / CAVAN / ITALY TOUR / NICE VS. CAPETOWN / DURHAM / ISTANBUL /

PARIS FASHION ANOUSCHKA Ex-Model Anouschka sells Cardin, Courrèges and Hermès from the ‘20s to the ‘80s – by appointment only

6, Avenue Coq

LA PETITE ROBE NOIRE Vintage and new little black dresses from Dior, Balenciaga and Valentino – what more is there to say?

125, Galerie de Valois Jardin du Palais Royal

DIDIER LUDOT Heavenly vintage haute couture

24, Galerie Montpensier www.didierludot.com

MERCI Fabulously cool concept store run by Bernand and Marie-France Cohen

111 Boulevard Beaumarchais www.merci-merci.com

LE BON MARCHEZ The oldest, smallest and loveliest department store in Paris

exhibitions afterwards. The Grand Palais and Petit Palais are really exciting – I saw a great Amish Kapur exhibition there recently. The Jeu de Paume is good for photography exhibitions and you should definitely go to the nearby Jardin de Tuilleries, grab yourself a deckchair and sit with your feet up on one of the big round fountains. There are always about 300 other people there all doing the same thing and it just feels great. WHAT IS REALLY DELICIOUS IN PARIS?

Macaroons, but I find them a bit sweet. Something else really simple and delicious and rather naughty is a glass of white wine at lunchtime – [laughs] Paris has that effect on me. KS

champagne. A selection of cheeses as well would be appropriate but that’s a pain to carry. WHO WOULD BE ON YOUR OWN PERSONAL PARISIAN SOUNDTRACK?

Quite simply Charles Aznavour – he’s pure Paris for me. If I had to choose between all the chansonniers from Piaf to Juliette Greco or Barbara, it would have to be Aznavour – there’s something so cinematically glamorous about him. KS

90 DAYS – ONE DREAM

Kristian Schuller's absolutely stunning visual journey through the dreamlike world of his unique photographic style: a virtual road trip for the mind.

’90 Days - One Dream‘, available as book and ebook www.kristianschuller.com

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM PROJECT?

I would love to work with Coco Chanel, and to experience Christian Dior and the young Yves St. Laurent too bad that this isn't possible! KS

DO YOU KNOW ANY FRENCH PROVERBS OR SAYINGS?

To shoot my next 250 page book exclusively in Paris. It would be full of very elegant women – sexy, exciting and very elegant. KS

Oh god no! My French isn’t good enough for that. KS

THEN AT LEAST TELL US YOUR FAVOURITE FRENCH WORD?

IF PARIS WERE A DRESS WHAT WOULD IT LOOK LIKE?

Ah, I’m lucky enough to see that every day with Peggy’s wardrobe – all her dresses are Paris dresses!

IF YOU COULD PICK YOURSELF A FASHION DESIGNER TO SHOOT A CAMPAIGN WITH WHO WOULD IT BE?

KS+PS Amour!

WHAT GIFTS DO YOU BRING BACK FROM PARIS FOR YOUR FRIENDS?

We are not big present-buyers but if we do then it is usually red wine or PS

ABOUT PEGGY SCHULLER Peggy Schuller is a stylist and art director from Plauen in former East Germany. She studied fashion design with Vivienne Westwood at the University of Fine Arts in Berlin where she met her husband Kristian. Her illustrious client list includes Vogue, Tatler and Moet & Chandon.

CHARLES AZNAVOUR

He is the international ambassador of French chanson. His legendary „Platinum Collection“ is the perfect sound for your Paris trip.

24, Rue Sèvres www.lebonmarche.fr

EVENTS CALENDER SEPTEMBER 27 OCTOBER 5

PARIS FASHION WEEK Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2012 Collections

www.modeaparis.com

NOVEMBER LE

MOIS DE LA PHOTO Photography festival organised by the Maison Européenne de la Photographie

www.mep-fr.org

NOVEMBER 9 -13

PARIS PHOTO AT THE GRAND PALAIS

www.paris-photo.fr

JANUARY 18-22

PARIS FASHION WEEK Men's Fashion Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Collections

JANUARY 23-26

PARIS FASHION WEEK Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2012 Collections

FEBRUARY 28-MARCH 7

PARIS FASHION WEEK Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Collections

Photography: De Vetpan studios – www.devetpan.com (1) / Illustation: Peggy Schuller

GOOD TO KNOW The Radisson Blu hotels welcome you with little extras to make your short break an unforgettable experience.

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IMPRINT SHORTBREAKS is the international

travel magazine of the Radisson Blu Hotels & Resorts. Your comments, suggestions or editorial requests are always welcome at info@radissonblu.com PUBLISHED BY: The Rezidor Hotel Group Corporate Office Olivier Jacquin Avenue Du Bourget 44, B-1130 Brussels www.radissonblu.com EDITORIAL AND DESIGN: SelectNY.Berlin Chausseestraße 123, D-10115 Berlin www.selectny.com

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CONTRIBUTORS:

Acne Studios, Mikael Andersen, Valentin Angerer, Dietmar Arnold, Autoban Design Studio, Berliner Unterwelten e.V., Christophe Broutin, Cagaloglu Hamami, Sefer Çağlar, Cavan Tourism, Patrick de Jourdan, De Vetpan Studios, DoGa, Ruben Manrique Díaz, Sheila Dixon, Milena Fessmann, Finnish Tourist Board, Fiskars Home & Iittala, Fritz Hansen A/S, GEORG JENSEN A/S, Jeppe Gudmundsen-Holmgreen, Restaurant Gusto, Ditte Hammerstrøm, Nayon Han, Damien Heinisch, Ditte Isager, Istanbul Doors Restaurant Group, Istanbul Jazz Festival, Istanbul Modern, Ole Jais, Karl Anderson & Söner, Grant Kennedy, Klaesson Koivisto Rune, La Fidélité, Damien Lafargue, Niklas R. Lello, Lightyears A/S, Liquidrom GmbH & CO. KG, Uwe Micheel, Patsy Mooney, Musarm Production, Noma Restaurant, Noshe, Seyhan Özdemir, Palais De Tokyo, Poster Gallery Cracow, Rex Club, Sammlung Boros, J. Konrad Schmidt, Kristian Schuller, Peggy Schuller, Snøhetta, Siddharth Siva, spreephoto.de, Stiftung Berliner Philharmoniker, Sunset Grill & Bar, Swedese Möbler AB, The Bowes Museum, Ulus 29, Visit County Durham, visitnorway.com

PHOTO AGENCIES:

Colourbox, Dreamstime, Fotolia, iStockphoto, Masterfile, Photaki, Photocase, Shutterstock, Westend61, Thomas Bethge/Shutterstock.com p. 36, 37, 38, Aaron Amat/Shutterstock.com p. 36, 37, 38

clubcarlson.com

IMPRINT

THE RADISSON BLU HOTEL SERVICES

The perfect gift

...the Radisson Blu gift card

ulation Congrat

Enjoy

Congratula

tions

Good luck

Imagine! A city break in Stockholm, a romantic dinner in Paris, a shopping break in Glasgow or Dubai or a spa break in Ireland. The choice is yours! The gift card can be used at more than 250 hotels in 33 participating countries.

radissonblu.com/giftcard