CraftPittsburgh Issue #9

CraftPittsburgh CraftBeerMagazine Issue #9 Jan. - Mar. 2013

The Church Brew Works The Triumphant Resurgence

of the Great Pittsburgh Brewpub

CONTINUING

EDUCATION Crafting the local beer community

DEBATE craft vs. crafty plus

• have you tried...

• cooking with beer • upcoming beer events CraftPittsburgh.com

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EDITOR LETTER

3,492

Bottles of Beer on the wall

Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week

16 Craft Beers on Tap Rotation

You probably didn’t know it at the time, but almost two years ago, some like-minded individuals in the local beer industry began some informal talks to make the next step in growing our craft beer scene by creating a week-long event to celebrate it – something nearly every other great beer city has been doing for years. This group later developed into the non-profit Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance and the event became the first inaugural Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week.

Over 400 Bottle Choices Complimentary Craft Beer Tastings One-of-a-Kind Beeried Treasures Currated by our Beer Librarian

After months of preparation – and some intense last-minute organization – Beer Week proved to be an overall success. In the course of one week, nearly 300 craft beer-focused events were believed to have contributed over $3 million to the local economy.

Overall, the feedback for the first Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week was positive, though, like most things new, it wasn’t without its hiccups. But lessons were learned and along with feedback, all have been taken into account as the board moves forward. The PCBA held a wrap-up meeting shortly after last year’s events to discuss what about Craft Beer Week worked and what didn’t in an effort to grow and improve next year’s celebration.

Unique Craft Beer Experiences with Brewser the Infuser

Visit us at either location along I-376: Robinson Town Center Exit across from Target Monaca Exit in the Beaver Valley Mall Events at bocktown.com • Follow bocktown on Twitter!

t.indd 5

12/14/12 4:02 PM

With support from all the area craft beer wholesalers and sponsors, a lot of people have been putting in a great deal of effort on their personal time to ensure – just months from the time you read this – 2013 Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week will be bigger, better, and more focused. I want to take this chance to thank all of those involved, not as the publisher of a magazine focusing on good beer, but as a fan of good beer and the Pittsburgh beer community.

If you want to be part of the 2013 Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week, the PCBA is currently accepting both professional and individual memberships open to all, as well as all levels of sponsorship for Beer Week itself. Visit PittsburghCraftBeerWeek.com to see how you can help.

Sláinte,

Tim Russell

e s i t r e adv

!

R E BE 21 Rotating Taps 300+ Bottles Award Winning Pizza & Wings 6750 Hollywood Blvd ● Delmont, PA (Plaza below Walmart)

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info@craftpittsburgh.com

www.3riversbeer.com

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Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

TABLE OF CONTENTS on tap

SPECIALS

THIS ISSUE

pg. 6

6 Continuing Education

Crafting the beer community

7 D ebate Craft vs. Crafty 8 The Church Brew Works

THE REGULARS

The Triumphant Resurgence of the Great Pittsburgh Brewpub

4 Upcoming Events 5 Unfiltered 14 Beer Review 18 Cooking with Beer

pg. 8

pg. 18

PUBLISHER Craft Media, LLC

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Tim Russell • Tim@CraftPittsburgh.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Mike Weiss • Mike@CraftPittsburgh.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Rob Soltis • SoltisDesign.com For information on contributing editorial content or placing display advertising please contact us at info@CraftPittsburgh.com Craft Pittsburgh is issued quarterly by Craft Media, LLC. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of Craft Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of Craft Media, LLC. Craft Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertiser assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads

CraftPittsburgh.com CraftPittsburgh.com

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2010 SILVER MEDAL & 2011 BRONZE MEDAL GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL® AMERICAN-STYLE INDIA PALE ALE

UPCOMING EVENTS ®

Award winning Beer handcrafted for you HUNT IT DOWN!

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Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

check our calendar at

CraftPittsburgh.com for even more regularly updated events

january Vertical Epic Beer Dinner, 9 Stone Pittsburgh Beer Meetup Hike 12 •• Beer “Yinz Goin’ North?” PA Brew Tour 16 Heavy Seas Beer Dinner at Bigelow Grille 19 Hard Cider Hike 24 3rd Annual Pour For a Cure 26 Brews for a Chili Night february 16 Full Pint PA Brew Tour 22 Firkin Friday Goin’ North?” PA Brew Tour 23 •• “Yinz Brewer’s Cup Homebrew Competition march 16 “Saints and Sinners” PA Brew Tour Brew Works “Farm to Table” 23 Sprague PA Brew Tour april 7 Session Beer Day 13 Full Pint PA Brew Tour 19 Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week Starts • Erie Microbrew Festival Big Tap In 20 •• The “Saints and Sinners” PA Brew Tour 27 Hard Cider and Mead Festival

UNFILTERED you’re a HARD HABIT to break

By Melinda Urick

O

ver three rivers and through a couple of tunnels to grandma’s house (and 13 other family residences and hometown pointsof-interest) we go.

Are you tired from all that holidaying? Because I am exhausted.

I’m awaiting full-on hibernation mode so that I don’t have to see another soul for... well, at least, a few more days. The excess of Christmas Spirit (ahem, the Ghosts of Christmas Partying, Imbibing and Socializing) has caught up and waged war on my well-being and insomnia levels. My short list of traditions include: special craft bottle opened for Christmas Eve, celebratory winter ales on Christmas Day (this, after a few mimosas to “wake up”), a New Year’s midnight toast (with your second bottle of hard cider), and the various gifted bottles and special releases enjoyed in the weeks since.

I am sick of booze just writing this.

That must mean it’s time for another round of 30 Days Without Alcohol.

Why the hell is this person talking about being alcohol-free in a beer magazine?

You know when you do the same thing over-and-over again, and everything becomes, well... boring? I mean, technically speaking, nobody is paying me for drinking; indirectly, yes, as here I am writing about it. And, you know how you start to miss something when you’re not regularly partaking? Cliché as it sounds, you truly learn to appreciate something when it’s gone.

Maybe, just maybe, you’ll learn to acknowledge those cellared beers you’ve been gifted. That new release for which you waited HOURS to receive might move its way onto the Drink Me list. The souvenirs of travel. That collected vertical series 10 years in the making. Why aren’t you having a Bottle Share and inviting me?!

That’s where I’m at after too-many celebrations: I need a short break from the continual exposure to alcohol. A palate refresher, if you will, to re-energize the craft.

I’m not one for the deluge of eat better/exercise more resolutions in January -- I want to kill all of the things at the gym starting January 2, which lasts at least through mid-February -- but mostly, I’m not all that convinced of resolutions. I’m more than likely the person to throw YOUR diet and drinking cessations off track. I know, I’m a terrible friend, but I just KNOW how much you like cheese plates and porters!

21 Rotating Taps 300+ Bottles Award Winning Pizza & Wings 6750 Hollywood Blvd ● Delmont, PA (Plaza below Walmart)

724-468-3005 www.3riversbeer.com

Of course, alcohol-centric events confound the best-laid plans, so finding 30 consecutive days where I can cancel out all appearances and happy hours is a task. Looking through the calendar and attempting to select a month that “works” -- one without holidays and birthdays or showers and weddings -- leaves January. I’ll have to learn to forgo the customary champagne brunch on New Year’s Day. When this 30-day detoxification is over, my intent -- and my hope for anyone looking to rediscover a passion for the craft beer industry -- is to recognize an untapped love for Belgians (a style I’ve too-long pushed away), refine my palate for bitters, order more lambics... embrace the efforts and history of the Pittsburgh Craft Community.

Kind of sounds like a resolution, doesn’t it?

South Side, Pittsburgh www.otbbicyclecafe.com

Phone: 412-381-3698 CraftPittsburgh.com

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continuing education:

CRAFTING THE BEER COMMUNITY

By Melinda Urick

Pictured from Left to Right: Tony Knipling, Greg Engelmeyer, Susan Sternberger, Mike Lloyd

A

s longtime advocates in their local communities, Greg Engelmeyer, 55, and Mike Lloyd, 51, used their commitment to service and passion for craft beer as a catalyst to start a brew-focused fundraiser. This great idea started as many do: a shared experience as craft beer devotees and a mission to give back.

Last year, Engelmeyer and Lloyd approached The Cultural Trust to re-create a program similar to its Craft Beer School -- of which both Engelmeyer and Lloyd are “students.” While not a project of the Trust or part of Craft Beer School curriculum, their event would add continuity to the series in its off months and bolster philanthropic efforts for the YMCA of Greater Pittsburgh. Support from the Trust was imperative, and the fundraiser was approved without hesitation. The first Craft Beer University was held in July.

The event sold out.

Lloyd, who serves part-time in an Executive Director and Development role for the South Hills YMCA, gave Engelmeyer, a volunteer for the YMCA and a Beer School Honor Student, all the credit, “Greg... is one of the best volunteers known to the YMCA. The Craft Beer University was his brainchild.”

Naturally, Engelmeyer shared kudos for his co-creator, “It was Mike’s idea, and he was the driving organizational force, accountant, program creator, and food organizer.”

In the event’s booklet, both beer school ambassadors thanked attendees: “We created this event for the benefit of the YMCA and in recognition of our passion for our favorite program of continuing education – Craft Beer School!”

Collaborating in the planning of Craft Beer University was Sternberger from The Cultural Trust (hostess of Craft Beer School, affectionately known as “The Beer Goddess”) and Tony “The Beer Man” Knipling from Vecenie Distributing. Several local breweries participated and provided tastings: East End Brewing Co., Church Brew Works, Penn Brewery, Erie Brewing Co., and Helltown Brewing. Penn’s Corner also provided cheese to complement the beers.

“We were very blessed to have incredible assistance by the Cultural Trust under Susan’s [Sternberger] leadership -- and Tony Knipling for serving as host. We were also very lucky to have teamed up with great breweries who donated their beer, time, and talent to make the event a sellout and complete success.” added Lloyd.

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Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

Because of that generous sponsorship and advertisement funding, 100% of admission costs, purchase of raffle tickets and donations were directly gifted to the South Hills YMCA to support Camp AIM. Camp AIM, a mainstay of the annual Campaign for Strong Communities, is a six-week summer day camp for children with special needs. For more than 40 years, Camp AIM has provided 4,000 children and young adults in 15 school districts within Allegheny County with positive social interaction, activities to enhance and improve muscle coordination and projects that build upon vocational education and responsibility training. This program combines life skills, social and recreational activities, physical education, home economics, music, and art with opportunities to Achieve, support to become Independent and encouragement to become Motivated (AIM) -- the driving forces of the sanctioned program.

Because of the camp’s low staff-to-camper ratio and expenses to transport campers from all over the Pittsburgh area, the funds raised from Craft Beer University is significant to the organization. Every summer, South Hills YMCA sends over 125 children with special needs to Camp AIM. Since the camp is funded by board members and donations, Engelmeyer noted, “We are always looking for new opportunities to fundraise, as the costs of sending over 125 [children with special needs] to our Camp AIM are always on the rise.”

Based on the event’s inaugural success, Engelmeyer and Lloyd anticipate the same success for next summer’s Craft Beer University.

Engelmeyer surmised, “Any time you can bring people together for a good cause -- and throw in excellent craft beer and tasty food -there is a high likelihood everyone will walk away happy knowing that not only did they have a good time, but maybe they gave a little back to someone in need... That’s what Craft Beer University [is] all about.”

If you want to learn more about the YMCA of Greater Pittsburgh, or would like to make a donation to support the programs that strengthen the communities of Pittsburgh, visit ymcaofpittsburgh.org.

The next Craft Beer University event is tentatively scheduled for July 2013.

EDITORIAL

“Craft vs. Crafty”

DEBATE

By Tim Russell

The history of the Brewers Association dates back to the ‘40s when a group of small brewers gathered to discuss issues within their industry. After the merger of the ‘Association of Brewers’ and the ‘Brewers’ Association of America’—which formally created what we know today as ‘Brewers Association’—a number of industry guidelines were created; however, the primary function of the BA was to advance craft brewing and assist small, independent brewers by offering a number of marketing, production, and sales tools. Their declared purpose is “to promote and protect small and independent American brewers, their craft beers and the community of brewing enthusiasts.”

In early December the BA made the decision that you, the consumer, needed to know that certain beer industry entities were trying to put on over on you (specifically the MillerCoors and Anheuser-Busch InBevs of the world). I believe most people realize Blue Moon has always been produced by, what is now, MillerCoors and that Shock Top is being made by AB. Most of us probably learned these facts by ear or by reading them online. One way you certainly haven’t been made aware, is by reading a bottle. Nowhere on these bottles will you find evidence of the actual parent company; rather you will find the name of a “shell brewery,” if you will. In other ways the big guys don’t necessarily make up a “crafty” label, but rather purchase a large stake in a craft brewery—or even 100% of the company outright. In either case, the point that the Brewers Association is trying to make is that there’s lack of transparency in macro’s marketing.

brewer because they don’t use “traditional” ingredients (i.e. Straub produces their lagers with adjuncts) Why have they adopted this practice? Because it saves them money? Not necessarily. Adjunct brewing is cost efficient for some brewers at larger production levels; however, due to demand driven by the ethanol industry, corn can sometimes cost as much or even more than malt in some lower quantity cases. Straub uses adjuncts because it’s a traditional ingredient in the specific style of lager which they’ve always brewed.

When Eastern European immigrants settled in America, they found that the barley grown in the soil here imparted more of a harsh taste compared to that of their native grains. Corn was added to replicate the lighter, sweeter flavor of their favorite beers, not to make it more cost effective. This is the origin of the American-style lager, and it’s something Straub has kept true to. ‘What about the future?’ you ask.

Straub has immediate plans to begin producing all-malt beers, with this year’s ‘Groundhog’—a German-style Alt—being their first.

Where some breweries have been called out by the BA, others have been shown favoritism. The restrictions on a craft brewer’s size have been redefined multiple times in order to account for the continued production growth of Boston Beer Company—the makers of Samuel Adams. The BA still considers Boston Beer Co. to be independent despite that shares of the company are publicly traded on the New York Stock Exchange.

This was an attempt by the Brewers Association to draw a defined line and to educate the public on who’s who. Unfortunately their efforts have taken on the appearance of a “blacklist.” By banishing companies like Straub and August Schell to the same realm as AB InBev and MillerCoors, the BA has clearly missed its mark with its efforts. Everyone seems to be more worried about what’s on a bottle label these days or how it’s marketed, forgetting what the real focus should be: how good is the beer in the bottle?

This concern lead to the creation of a list released by the Brewer’s Association which called out a number of companies whom they claim do not meet the definition of a craft brewery (a definition the BA developed), and therefore, are simply posing as one. According to the BA, a brewery’s status is based on three factors: production output, ownership, and ingredients. A real American craft brewery is “small and independent.” Yearly production cannot be more than 6 million barrels and no more than 25% of the business can be owned or controlled by an outside entity that is not, themselves, deemed to be a craft brewery. Also the brewery in question cannot use adjunct ingredients such as corn and/or rice in the production of their beer.

Among those included on the list—besides Blue Moon and Shock Top—were Goose Island, Leinenkugel’s, and the Craft Brew Alliance family of brands (Kona, Red Hook, and Widmer); each deemed ‘non-craft’ for no longer being independently owned. August Schell Brewing was singled out for being an adjunct brewer, despite being only regional in size and independently owned. Jace Marti of August Schell fired back at the BA with a letter calling their inclusion in the list “downright disrespectful, rude and quite frankly, embarrassing.”

The letter pointed out a bias in that it seems acceptable for some craft brewers to use adjuncts and non-traditional ingredients in a number of beer styles, but not if you’re mainly producing American-style lagers.

Another brewery with a similar story is Straub Brewing, of St. Mary’s, PA. Straub falls well below the “large brewer” production classification set forth by the BA, and is independently owned; in fact they’ve been family-owned since 1878 when Peter Straub took over the brewery. The BA’s take is that Straub is not a craft CraftPittsburgh.com

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The Triumphant Resurgence Of The Great Pittsburgh Brewpub

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The Church Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

S

ometimes you don’t know where you’re going until you get there: this sentiment rings true for a great many folks, and Steve Sloan is certainly one of them. Sloan is the Brewmaster at The Church Brew Works in Lawrenceville. A 16year journeyman of the brewing industry, he landed at CBW in the autumn of 2011. In his short time at the brewery he’s managed (with the help of his dedicated staff) to transform an established, yet occasionally overlooked, brewpub in to the Great American Beer Festival’s ‘Large Brewpub of the Year’ Award Winner.

Although The Church Brew Works opened its doors for the first time in the mid-1990s—in the midst of the first wave of the craft beer boom—the old church building has stood along Liberty Avenue in Lawrenceville for well over a century.

Erected in 1902, St. John the Baptist Church served the Roman Catholic communities of Lawrenceville and its surrounding areas as both a place of worship and a bedrock of support for its parishioners and residents of nearby neighborhoods through the Great Depression and both World Wars. The structure was used to hold church services until 1993 when it was officially deconsecrated by the Diocese of Pittsburgh— due in part to the fact that the building had fallen in to a rather unsightly state of disrepair, and also due to reorganization by the Diocese. The property lay dormant until it was purchased in February of 1996 by CBW Owner/President Sean Casey.

After a painstakingly detailed, six month renovation The Church Brew Works opened its doors to the public in the summer of 1996.

In 2001, The Church Brew Works was listed on the Pittsburgh History and Landmark Foundation’s list of Historic Landmarks—and for good reason. The renovated structure is widely considered to be one of the most sensitive and unique reuse projects focusing on a religious structure. Despite the immense amount of work completed in a relatively short time frame, Casey was able to achieve a level of elegance and functionality while honoring the original architecture.

Casey made it a point to restore and repurpose as much of the original décor as possible, helping to retain the history and charm of the original interior. From the beautiful artisan glasswork and turn-of-the-century-style pipe organ (from which CBW’s Pipe Organ Pale Ale gets its namesake) to the repurposed confessional booths and church pews, the spirit of the old church remains but still manages to blend with some of the more current attributes of the building. Even the modern brew house equipment seems oddly at home in its otherwise counterintuitive spot on, what was formerly, the church altar.

In addition to the brewery being awarded the title of ‘Large Brewpub of the Year’ at this year’s Great American Beer Festival, Steve Sloan was named ‘Large Brewpub Brewer of the Year’; a title he relishes but doesn’t allow to go to his head. When asked where the GABF awards rank among the achievements he is most proud of since his start at The Church Brew Works, Steve is determined to keep the awards in perspective. “Sure, the recognition is nice, but I’m definitely more proud of the improvements we’ve made in quality and consistency,” Steve said.

Despite his modesty, Steve is nothing if not a consummate industry professional. He has cut his teeth at celebrated

breweries all over the country, including: Schlafly Beer (St. Louis, MO), Kona Brewing Company (Kailua-Kona, HI), Coors Brewing Company (Golden, CO), Lost Coast Brewery (Eureka, CA), John Harvard’s Brewhouse (Monroeville, PA), and Firestone Walker Brewing Co. (Buellton, CA).

Besides his vast and varied list of industry experience, Steve’s academic background has served him well in his brewing career. After earning his undergraduate degree in chemistry in Michigan, Steve attended the University of Florida where he received his master’s degree in the same area of study.

Steve first took an interest in craft beer while completing his undergrad degree in Michigan. Although he is a native of the Detroit-area, Steve first familiarized himself with some quality offerings from Kalamazoo’s own Bell’s Brewery during college. His love of beer was also nurtured during the time he spent playing football in Germany.

“When I graduated from Florida, I knew I didn’t want to work in a lab full-time,” Steve recalls. Although he was not working in the science field, Steve utilized his chemistry background by adopting homebrewing as a

Brew Works

By Brian Reed Photography ByCraftPittsburgh.com Mike Basista

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staple ‘Pious Monk Dunkel’—a Munich-style Dunkel with notes of toasted brown bread—remained untouched.

If the Thunderhop IPA is up to your speed, then make it a point to seek out The Church Brew Works’ Double IPA. Currently a rotating specialty, it takes the characteristics of the Galaxy hop and amplifies them tenfold by increasing the quantity, pairing them with Citra hops (a similar but decidedly unique variety they acquired this year from Boston Beer Co.’s annual hop lottery), and toning down the melanoidin/caramel malt character in order to let the hops do what they do best—mainly, blow your face off.

Steve is quick to credit his staff of talented brewers and cellarmen with many of the advancements that the brewery has achieved over the past year or so. In addition to Steve, who considers himself more of a ‘Brewery Manager’ than ‘Brewmaster’, CBW boasts a regular, full-time staff of three additional brewers; including Head Brewer Matt Moninger, and brewers/cellermen Justin Viale and Steve O’Neil. Sloan makes it a priority to try to fully utilize the skill and creativity of his staff by asking them to play pivotal roles in the recipe formulation of, not only their regular offerings, but also their seasonal and specialty brews. In fact, each brewer takes their turn formulating CBW’s rotating specialty/one-off beers.

“We try to keep it interesting,” Sloan said. “Otherwise it can sometimes get a bit monotonous just making the same wort every day.” Most recently, Moninger was credited as coming up with a unique Autumn Saison, Viale developed an English Mild recipe, and O’Neil, a traditional German-style Weizenbock. “I really like lower gravity Belgian styles, like Saisons. We plan to do a different one for every season,” Sloan said. “We are actually planning a Winter Saison with Brett(anomyces) and juniper.”

Head Brewer Matt Moninger agrees that the focus has changed significantly since Steve arrived. “We definitely have made experimenting more of a priority since Sloan came on. Specifically over the last six months we’ve really gotten in to it.”

hobby. Steve’s next move was to Hawaii. Being a former football player, Steve was invited to join a friend in coaching and teaching at a local high school in a small town of about a thousand residents in Hawaii. This move ultimately brought him closer to his first brewing job when he met the Head Brewer at Hawaii’s Kona Brewing Company. Besides a short hiatus (during which he briefly lived in New Zealand after marrying his Kiwi wife), Steve has been working in the brewing industry ever since.

In his relatively short time since taking over the brewing operations at The Church Brew Works—he accepted the position just before Thanksgiving, 2011—Steve has managed to evolve their products and processes and make great strides in the way of quality and consistency; especially in the areas of packaging, yeast management, and recipe formulation. “In some ways it seems like it’s been ten years, and in others it seems like I’ve only been here for a couple of months,” Steve admits.

Although many of the brewery’s classic beer recipes have remained largely unchanged, Steve and his staff have made efforts to tweak some and (in some instances) completely overhaul others. For example, CBW’s popular Thunderhop IPA recipe has been updated a bit. The traditional east coast-style malt bill—with plenty of bready, caramel malt character—remains unchanged; however, the hopping schedule, rates, and hop styles used have been significantly altered to deliver the assertively resinous citrus/pine notes that many craft beer consumers look for in an American rendition of the style (the big burst of hop flavor and aroma, reminiscent of tropical citrus fruit, is as a result of a popular and relatively new Australian hop variety known as ‘Galaxy.’). Inversely, the recipe for their long-time

Moninger is no stranger to unique, experimental brews; however he takes specific interest in experimenting with historic, old world beer styles utilizing herbs, spices, and other ingredients often neglected in modern brewing. He shares in Steve’s passion for Saison. “The Saison style, for example, is really interesting to me because it’s completely dependent on climate, region, and available ingredients,” Moninger said. “We have access to any ingredient in the world, but we try to think about what would have been historically available.”

CBW enjoyed enormous success at this year’s GABF for their regular/ flagship beers as well as their specialty/experimental offerings.

Overall, the brewery won four individual beer medals (one gold, one silver, and two bronze) in addition to the ‘Large Brewpub’ and ‘Large Brewpub Brewer of the Year’ Awards. The two bronze medals were awarded to their Pipe Organ Pale Ale (InternationalStyle Pale Ale category) and Celestial Gold (Dortmunder or GermanStyle Oktoberfest category). Silver went to the aforementioned Pious Monk Dunkel (European-Style Dunkel category). The prestigious gold medal was bestowed upon a specialty brew which Steve called ‘Heini’s Hooch’—a Bourbon barrel-aged Old Ale—which won the ‘Old Ale or Strong Ale’ category.

The name ‘Heini’s Hooch’ has an interesting and heartfelt backstory.

The beer was named after a dear friend of Steve who passed away late last year. “Heinrich Maierhofer was a German friend who was kind enough to let me stay in his very small trailer while I was ‘working’ in Bavaria,” Sloan said. Steve went on to explain that Heinrich loved his Asbach—a German brandy that bears many similarities to Bourbon. Therefore Steve formulated and brewed the beer with the express intent of aging it in bourbon barrels and replicating many characteristics of his friend’s beloved spirit. Although the gold medal winner was originally planned as a one-off brew, Steve and the gang are already anticipating another batch, possibly tweaked by aging in a brandy barrel rather than a bourbon barrel.

Unfortunately Sloan was not able to travel to Colorado and attend the GABF this year and, therefore, was not present to receive the

awards. “Yea, I wasn’t able to go this year.” Steve said. “Luckily Matt (Moninger) went out for it. I was getting text message updates when we would win. They just kept coming, and then I didn’t hear anything for a while. It was exciting.”

“I tried to keep them updated,” Moninger said. When asked what his expectations were going in to this year’s GABF, it seemed Moninger was cautiously optimistic. “I knew we were making great beer but obviously it’s hard to anticipate an outcome like that,” he said.

In the same vein as Heini’s Hooch, the CBW crew has consistently upped the ante over the past year by expanding in to a number of different stylistic and technical brewing realms which the brewpub was not known for doing in the past. Besides the definite focus on barrel-aged beers, expect more progressive Brettanomyces– driven and sour offerings, as well as a great many traditional cask-conditioned ales. In fact, Steve and the staff are so committed to facilitating true cask ales that they are installing a sizable cask refrigerator near the main bar to achieve and maintain optimal conditions for their hand-pumped beer. Currently the brewpub is going through an average of two “casks” per week.

An oft undervalued skill set is the ability to create both quality high gravity and session-strength beers. This is certainly one talent which The Church Brew Works has managed to acquire. It would be an understatement to say that it is simply unusual for a brewery to win three GABF medals for beers 4.3% ABV and under, in addition to a gold for a 10.5% ABV Old Ale; an impressive feat in itself.

The progression of CBW has not only been realized through industry recognition. In fact the brewpub has enjoyed sustained growth of roughly 20% per year and has relatively immediate plans to potentially expand both bottle and draft distribution significantly (reportedly in to Ohio as well). The drastically increased focus on quality, consistency, and product shelf-life has allowed management to gain confidence in this type of move.

“Steve is the scientist, the Q.A. guy,” Moninger explains. “Getting Q.A. (Quality Assurance) under control is about 90% of being able to make this kind of move.” Both Sloan and Moninger both note drastic improvements in shelf life through better filtering practices and minimalizing dissolved oxygen during packaging. Currently they are producing about 1,200 bbl. annually for sale in the brewpub combined with approximately 1,500 bbl. annually for offpremises sale, both of which are expected to increase significantly.

CBW has not only managed to survive in the seemingly broad span of time between the ‘90s brewpub boom and the most recent craft beer revival, but they have evolved and thrived. They have adopted the adage that suggests a business should focus on hiring the right people then let them do what they do best; this model has obviously severed them well.

OH, YES...

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Fat Head’s Saloon

1805 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 431-7433 fatheads.com

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

Pistella Beer Distributors Rivertowne Brewing

5578 Old William Penn Hwy Export 15632 (724) 519-2145 MyRivertowne.com

Vecenie Distributing Company Wilson-McGinley

85 36th St., Pittsburgh 15201 (412) 621-4420 wilsonmcginley.com

Zoe’s Beer Distributor

4102 Clairton Blvd., Brentwood 15227 (412) 881-4002 zoesbeer.com

Thank You

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BEER REVIEW

e v a H You d e i r T

SLY FOX Ichor

An Abbot-style Quad, Ichor is brewed with German and roasted malts, and just enough Belgian candi sugar to push it to 10% ABV. Ichor is bottle-conditioned and now available year-round.

ANDERSON VALLEY Winter Solstice

Anderson Valley’s take on a winter ale features a dark amber color with aromas of nutmeg, vanilla, and some caramel. Lightly hopped, it gives way to a sweet finish with a creamy mouthfeel. Winter Solstice has an ABV of 6.9%.

NEW HOLLAND Cabin Fever

At 6%, New Holland’s Cabin Fever is a bigger brown ale. Said to have notes of rye, raisins, and a bit of roasty bitterness, this brown gives way to a sweet, but dry finish.

LAGUNITAS

Brown Shugga

A seasonal, this 9.99% ABV American Strong Ale originally started off as a batch of Lagunitas Gnarleywine that failed to ferment. The attempt to save it was made by adding “boatloads of brown sugar.” Fortunately, Lagunitas thought the results was not only good enough to bottle, but reproduce.

FAT HEAD’S Heat Hunter

With the opening of the Fat Heads production brewery, this award-winning IPA is now available in bottle and draft throughout the Pittsburgh market. “Aggressively dry-hopped,” this 7.5% ABV west coast-style IPA has notes of pine, grapefruit, citrus, and pineapple. Accolades include Great American Beer Festival silver medal winner in 2010 and bronze in 2011, the Brewing News National IPA Challenge Champion in 2010 and 2012, and a silver medal for American IPA at the 2012 World Beer Cup. 14

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

WE HAVE THE OPPOSITE IF MICRO WHEN IT COMES TO SELECTION

4102 CLAIRTON BLVD. PITTSBURGH, PA 15227 (412)881-4002 WWW.ZOESBEER.COM CraftPittsburgh.com

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HOME BREWING The Church Brew Works’

HEINI’S HOOCH CLONE

E

By Brian Reed

ver dream of being a professional brewmaster? Sure you have. Don’t lie to me, you’re an adult. Every homebrewer who has caulked the wagon and floated beyond that first horrific batch has aspired—at least for a minute or two—to run their own brewery and spend their days formulating and brewing zymurgical masterpieces to the delight of your religiously loyal customers/adoring fans.

Fact: you’re never going to realize that dream. Let’s face it. You’re lazy, overweight, and you can’t read well. THAT’S OK! I’ll do ya one nearly as good. You can brew virtually the exact recipe created by the real award winning pros. Steve Sloan, Brewmaster at The Church Brew Works, has been gracious enough to pass along the secrets to a wonderful and unique recipe which garnered them gold at the 2012 year’s GABF—Heini’s Hooch; a unique version of a traditional English Old Ale using German malt, American hops, then aged in bourbon barrels. Of course I’ve taken the liberty of adapting it as best I can to the homebrew environment (and by “environment,” I mean the disgusting basement where you keep your bike and your upstairs neighbors keep the ashes of their dead relatives).

You’re welcome. So if you’re feeling adventurous, give this somewhat more advanced process a try. Worst case scenario: you screw up and it’s still beer.

Heini’s Hooch Batch Size – 6 gallon Boil – 120 min.

OG – 1.100 FG – 1.028 ABV – 9.6% IBU – 60

*Assuming 68-72% efficiency

MALT

18 lbs. Rahr 2-Row Malt 1.5 lbs. Weyermann Carabohemian - 75L 0.75 lbs. Weyermann Abbey – 17L

HOPS

3 oz. Chinook (13% AA) – 90 min.

1.5 oz. Chinook (15 min.) – 15 min.

1.5 oz. Amarillo (15 min.) – 15 min.

MASH

Single Infusion @ 152 for 60 - 75 min. (or until full conversion) 16

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FERMENTATION

Minimum of two weeks in primary @ 65 – 67 degrees.

*Be sure to build up a big, healthy pitch of your favorite English Ale yeast, this is not the type of beer where you can squeak by with a couple of vials. Try and you will most likely end up with a cloyingly sweet, hot/boozy, solvent-like mess. And don’t forget to oxygenate that wort!

CONDITIONING

Most folks don’t have a freshly emptied bourbon barrel lying around. No worries. I suggest soaking 1–3 oz. of heavy char oak cubes in 5–8 oz. of decent bourbon. After primary fermentation add the bourbon/ oak cubes to a sanitized secondary vessel, and then rack the beer on top. How much bourbon barrel-like character you achieve depends on a number of factors: how much bourbon/oak you use, how long you leave the beer in secondary, whether you add the

residual soaking bourbon to secondary as well, etc. These decisions are at your discretion. However, I’ll offer one word of advice: when experimenting with new ingredients/flavors, I always suggest erring on the side of caution. Powerful flavors can easily overwhelm a beer’s delicate sensibilities. Also, remember you can always add more but you cannot take any out.

SUBSTITUTES

If Rahr 2-Row is not available, then feel free to use any good quality US 2-Row. Weyermann Carabohemian is unique; however you can reach a reasonable facsimile by replacing it with Weyerman Caramunch III (57L) or even plain old crystal-80L. The color may not be dead on but it’ll be close. Lastly the part of Wyermann Abbey Malt could be played fairly well by Caravienne.

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COOKING WITH BEER

C

omfort food is my kind of food. The kind of food that takes you back home. I’m not talking about four-walls-and-a-roof home, I’m talking about that place where you go when you need to curl up and let someone else take care of you. For me, there is always some kind of food memory attached to home, whether its mom’s chicken noodle soup when I am feeling under the weather, the smell of burgers charring on the grill at a barbecue, or the sweet smell of cookies baking for the holidays. Food is deeply entrenched in so many of my memories of coming up.

My mom makes a pretty kick-ass meatloaf, the kind covered in ketchup glaze and served next to a pile of buttery mashed potatoes. I love mom’s meatloaf, don’t get me wrong, but it was far from gourmet, as can be expected when getting dinner on the table for the family after work. In all my chef-y glory I fixed that to take meatloaf from the mundane to a bit more sophisticated and flavorful.

I start with a mix of ground meats – beef and lamb for flavor and some pork for the fattiness – add some gently caramelized onion & garlic reduced with an Old Ale for some punch and a few other seasonings that make this meatloaf more reminiscent of a country style pâté than your (or my) mom’s meatloaf. I glaze with plain tomato sauce instead of ketchup, which some may claim is sacrilegious in that we are in Heinz country round these parts, but the sweetness of it doesn’t pair well here.

The Old Ale I used was an amazing creation of the homebrewing husband, but just about any old ale, Belgian-style brown, non-hoppy barley wine, or holiday ale will do the trick. You want to find a beer with a lot of malt, dark in color, usually higher on the ABV scale with rich, fruity, caramel notes to it. Commercial examples – North Coast Old Stock Ale, Theaksons Old Peculiar, Petrus Oud Bruin to name a few I have used successfully. You will be reducing this a lot, so a beer with as few hops as possible is key to avoid abrasiveness.

A few tips for perfect meatloaf – Panko breadcrumbs are key to getting the right texture. I wouldn’t recommend using plain in place of them.

When mixing, use more of a folding motion to combine the ingredients to avoid a heavy meatloaf – over-mashing the stuff makes a dense end product.

Never add raw onions or garlic to a meatloaf – they will cook while the meatloaf bakes but tend to leave a harshness that is alleviated when they are cooked before hand.

Always make enough for leftovers – meatloaf sandwiches the day after are heavenly off this recipe; I almost like them more than the meatloaf dinner.

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Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 9

By Mindy Heisler-Johnson

OLD ALE LAMB

MEATLOAF

OLD ALE LAMB MEATLOAF

akes roughly a 9x13 pan of meatloaf M 1 # each Fresh Ground Beef, Lamb & Pork 1 medium Spanish onion, small dice 2 Tbsp fresh minced garlic (about 4 cloves) 1 tsp dried thyme or Herbs de Provence ¼ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp kosher salt liberal amount fresh ground black pepper 12 oz Old Ale 2 cups panko breadcrumbs 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tsp salt ½ tsp dried thyme or Herbs de Provence more fresh ground black pepper 3 Eggs 2 Tbsp heavy cream 4oz plain tomato sauce (for glazing)

Heat your oven to 350F. Heat a small sauté pan over medium heat and melt a couple tablespoons of butter. Gently sweat the onions & garlic until they just start to take on some color. Season with salt, pepper, thyme, allspice, then continue to sweat until you smell the herbs start to cook in. Add the Old Ale and reduce by ¾.

When it is done there should be a minimal amount of liquid left and it will smell amazing. Let them cool off some while you put the rest together.

Put the ground meats in a big bowl with panko, mustard, a second round of seasoning, eggs, and cream. Top that mix with the onion beer reduction and use a folding motion to gently combine all of the ingredients until everything is evenly distributed.

Loosely pack the meat mixture into a pan, I spray mine down with some pan spray to make the cleaning up easier. Glaze the top with the tomato sauce evenly. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour, until the internal temp is 155F. Let it rest for 10 minutes or so before cutting into it.

I don’t make gravy to go with this meatloaf because it doesn’t need it. It’s moist and rich enough without it. I serve with mountains of buttery mashed potatoes and my favorite vegetables. Leftovers last a while in the fridge and are perfect to slice up for sandwiches. slide on to the stone, that isn’t a surprise you want to be cleaning off the bottom of your very hot oven, not that I would know anything about that, and gently slide on to the hot stone Bake for 18-20 minutes. Check about half way through and spin if necessary.

Remove to a platter with spatula & eat!

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