CraftPittsburgh CraftBeerMagazine Issue #10 April - June 2013
plus
• have you tried... • cooking with beer • upcoming beer events
CraftPittsburgh.com
1
and craft beer r daily features e to become: Check out ou taps in real tim
Best
(taste) Buds!
m/monaca bocktown.co m/robinson bocktown.co
16 Craft Beers on Tap Rotation Over 400 Bottle Choices Complimentary Craft Beer Tastings One-of-a-Kind Beeried Treasures Curated by our Beer Librarian Unique Craft Beer Experiences with Brewser the Infuser
Visit us at either location along I-376: Robinson Town Center Exit across from Target Monaca Exit in the Beaver Valley Mall Events at bocktown.com • Follow @bocktown on twitter!
EDITOR LETTER
Changes Changes are occurring everywhere around Pittsburgh. Great new bars and restaurants are opening, many of which are starting off with solid beer selections. Existing bars and restaurants that haven’t previously catered to the craft beer drinker are starting to recognize demand beyond those bland, mass-produced lagers and building up their draft and bottle selections. And speaking of mass-produced beer, even they’re introducing changes, most of which are intended to lure the craft beer drinker back into their portion of the market share. Some are competing by introducing faux “craft” brands while others are recognizing they can’t and simply buying ownership of existing craft brewers either through loans or outright. Locally, breweries are expanding and new ones are opening; I can think of at least six different ones in the area either in planning or under construction. Events and festivities are expanding and being added all the time. It seems like every other month or so a new National (insert beer style here) Day is introduced. April 7th marked National Session Beer Day, celebrating all that is a flavorful, yet low gravity ABV beer, one that allows you to have more than just a few – and worth having more than just a few, of course – and still make it home without much worry. Later this April is the 2nd Annual Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week. After last year, lessons were learned and changes were implemented to make this week-long celebration even better. With two big bookend events this year, including Release the Firkins, the first ever cask-conditioned ale fest in Pittsburgh, retailers and wholesalers stepped up with a ton of creative ideas this year to fill in those days between. Another major change on the horizon will be to how you purchase your beer, liquor, and wine. Proposing the privatization of the wholesale and retail sale of wine and liquor in Pennsylvania, HB790 was introduced and passed by the House of Representatives after many amendments, one of which would allow PA beer distributors to sell beer by the 6- and 12-pack and even growlers in addition to getting the first option on retail liquor licenses. Even with these changes to the bill, many small, independent distributors are still considered at risk despite the possible package reform. Many may not be able to afford the costs of these new permits – up to $100k total in some areas – or the shelf space for wine and liquor. The bill’s allowance of restaurant licenses to sell wine-to-go – up to six bottles at a time – and also beer by the case will put grocers with cafés on the same playing field as distributors who are legally limited to only selling a few commodities beyond alcohol – a recent law change permitted beer distributors to sell milk, bread, and homebrewing supplies in addition to beer, lottery, and snacks. Many more alterations to this privatization will probably happen before being passed by the Senate, but I believe some form of privatization will happen one way or another. Change is coming and things are happening locally and all through Pennsylvania. Maybe the dark ages of alcohol are finally coming to an end. Sláinte,
Tim Russell 2
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
TABLE OF CONTENTS
pg. 8
on tap
SPECIALS
THIS ISSUE
In 6 Brewing Greater Pittsburgh Images of America Series Author, Robert A. Musson, MD
ittsburgh 8 PCraft Beer Week
THE REGULARS
Part Two
4 Upcoming Events 5 Unfiltered 14 Beer Review 18 Cooking with Beer
pg. 6
PUBLISHER Craft Media, LLC
ADVERTISE HERE
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Tim Russell • Tim@CraftPittsburgh.com
MANAGING EDITOR
Mike Weiss • Mike@CraftPittsburgh.com
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Rob Soltis • SoltisDesign.com For information on contributing editorial content or placing display advertising please contact us at info@CraftPittsburgh.com Craft Pittsburgh is issued quarterly by Craft Media, LLC. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of Craft Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of Craft Media, LLC. Craft Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertiser assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads
CraftPittsburgh.com
timoliveira.com CraftPittsburgh.com
3
UPCOMING EVENTS
Award winning Beer handcrafted for you. Hope You’re Güden Ready.
check our calendar at
CraftPittsburgh.com for even more regularly updated events
april 7 Session Beer Day 13 Full Pint PA Brew Tour
4/19-4/27 FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF ALL THE EVENTS VIST
PITTSBURGHCRAFT BEERWEEK.COM
• Release the Firkins • The Big Tap In • Erie Microbrew Fest
Traditional North Ge rman-Style Pilsner brewed with European Pilsner Malt and who le flower Noble Hops for a de licately floral, crisp, clean, refreshing beer. Deliciously drinkable! 18741 SHELDON ROAD, MIDDLEBURG HEIGHTS, OHIO 44130 • FATHEADS.COM 4 Craft Pittsburgh | (216) Issue898.0242 10
20 26 TRASH Homebrew Meeting may 4 PA Flavor 4 Pets 18 •• Pints Sprague Farm “Farm to Table” PA Brew Tour 21 Craft Beer School june 1 Penn Brewery’s Microbrewer’s Fest 15 Beer and Gear 18 Craft Beer School 29 30
Great European Beer Fest
UNFILTERED beginner’s guide to
CRAFT BEER WEEK
P
By Melinda Urick
ittsburgh Craft Beer Week is upon us. You likely learned some things at PCBW ’12 about drinking for seven-plus days straight – and more than likely, you learned a lot about how a week-long hangover feels. Moderation is your best friend on these adventures. Haven’t participated in a Beer Week? I have some advice for the novices to get you through the drinking-planning madness. Likewise, last year’s inaugural celebration might have been trial-and-error for the vets, so consider this a little refresher course in Yes, We All Get Hangovers. First and foremost, can we get “don’t be a douche” out of the way?
Seriously, don’t be a douche.
Respect the beer, respect your fellow craft brew lovers, respect the breweries, the establishments, the organizers -- and most of all, respect yourself. Set drinking limits and remember that talk we had about moderation. And for goodness sake, make sure you have a Designated Driver.
H20-no-you-didn’t!
Drink some water. Given that all events are open to those 21 and over, you’re an adult; I shouldn’t have to tell you to drink water, but here’s your reminder anyway. While we’re on the topic, make sure you’re eating something. Snacks – especially pretzels, the perfect beer complement and palate cleanser – are your friend.
Have a plan, and buy tickets early.
The Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week website has a continually-updated online calendar, and in some occurrences, you will need to schedule your imbibing in advance. Buy tickets early, where available; some events WILL sell out quickly, and there WILL be crowds for those that don’t have tickets. Bring your parking chair... and remember Rule #1: Don’t be a douche!
Keep your options open.
Spontaneity always brews up something exciting. And during this type of celebration, there is the potential for an event or meet-up to happen organically – especially when around fellow beer geeks. Follow the social media accounts for Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week and the local participating breweries, homebrewing organizations and restaurants for announcements, specials and possible last-minute additions.
Track your beers.
21 Rotating Taps 300+ Bottles Award Winning Pizza & Wings 6750 Hollywood Blvd ● Delmont, PA (Plaza below Walmart)
724-468-3005 www.3riversbeer.com
A memento of your accomplishments (besides aforementioned hangover), the beer tracking program Untappd developed a unique badge specifically for Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week 2013 participants. Check-in on the mobile application to official events and log what you’re drinking to acquire the virtual badge.
Support the Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance.
The Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance is the organization that brings you such a week of awesomeness by the kegs-full. Get involved by becoming an individual member or business membership partner, so you can have a bigger part in this craft beer community movement.
Have fun!
Don’t get tangled up in the frustration of sold-out events and have some patience with the organizers for largely-attended tastings. Embrace the inevitable third-day headache (drink your damn water!). Make some friends in the community and industry, and find a new beer to love. You’ve waited all year for this.
South Side, Pittsburgh www.otbbicyclecafe.com
Phone: 412-381-3698 CraftPittsburgh.com
5
BREWING IN GREATER PITTSBURGH Images of America Series Author, Robert A. Musson, MD Review By Brian Reed
Brewing in Greater Pittsburgh follows the path of historical area brewers from the early days of Pittsburgh as a small, geographicallystrategic settlement and the first brewing operations founded near the convergence of our now famous three rivers, through the prohibition era, delving in to the golden age of advertising during the 1950s and 60s, and even a bit in to the modern brewing landscape. These stories of the brewers, entrepreneurs, and the companies that helped mold the vibrant industry we cherish today are mainly told through the use of photos, sketches, and advertising materials. The chosen imagery wonderfully illustrates the march of time that has brought Pittsburgh to where it is today. I was particularly impressed by the author’s ability to gather such a vast array of visual resources that tell the tale so well—especially considering many of these archived items had not seen the light of day for many-a-decade. The photos, illustrations, and other materials are generally accompanied by historical explanations of the items.
A
while back, in issue #6 of Craft Pittsburgh, I had the opportunity to write a feature article examining the history of brewing in the Pittsburgh region. As I was gathering info for the article, I recalled thinking to myself, “I can’t believe no one has already compounded all of the unbelievable material out there in to a book.” Little did I know that this gem of a project was already underway. Brewing in Greater Pittsburgh is the work of Robert A. Musson, MD; an Ohio resident, long-time beer and brewing enthusiast, and author of a number of historically-focused beer and brewing related books (including Brewing Beer Since 1829, and numerous works about the brewing history of Ohio).
6
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
Brewing in Greater Pittsburgh is broken up in to seven chapters, the topics of which span a wide range; including the emergence of Pittsburgh brewing collectives Pittsburgh Brewing Company and Independent Brewing Company of Pittsburgh, breweries existing in outlying communities, and specific focuses on Fort Pitt, Duquesne, and Iron City breweries— which the author refers to as the ‘Big 3’. It’s immediately clear that the book is extremely well researched. The sheer number of rare and long since-seen photos, ads, and illustrations was extremely impressive. Some of the more candid photos stick in my mind as the most memorable. One such photo from circa-1890 depicts the collective Ober Brewery employees posing for a shot with beer mugs in-hand, including what appears to be a very young child in a dress, the faithful brewery dog, and a seemingly domesticated raccoon perched on a barrel. Another photo from 1949 shows three Iron City brewery workers bellying up to an
employee bar for a beer in front of a sign that reads “BEER TIME. 10 minutes A.M. 10 minutes P.M.” The caption goes on to explain the union’s contract agreement at the time that mandated two tenminute beer breaks per day for all Pittsburgh brewery workers. Many of the previously archived and often forgotten relics of the very early days of beer advertising are featured in the book as well. A particularly interesting photo of a large fence ad for Independent’s Silver Top and Pale Export Beer brands featuring painted scenes of baseball players display some of the earliest examples of sports being utilized in beer advertising—a practice that, needless to say, maintains prevalence today. Although the book gives a wonderfully illustrated and in-depth look in to the evolution of Pittsburgh’s brewing industry, if you are looking for a wordier, more linear, or extremely detailed account of brewing history, Brewing in Greater Pittsburgh might not be it. The focus on allowing photos and illustrations to paint the scene makes for a somewhat fractured structure; however, it’s probably safe to say that this was the author’s intention. The concise but accurate and detailed captions and supporting paragraphs do a wonderful job of elaborating on the visuals in brief snippets. Content-wise, the book is a quick read, but I definitely found myself studying many of the captivating photos and beautifully done sketches for several minutes. The impressively comprehensive collection of photos, sketches, and advertisements displayed in the book are obviously meant to be the star of the show; and as a novice PA brewing history enthusiast, I can confidently attest to the fact that gathering a collection of this magnitude is no small task. For anyone who has any interest in beer, brewing, and/or industrial or local history in general I have no doubt you will enjoy Brewing in Greater Pittsburgh.
CraftPittsburgh.com
7
ASK FOR US WHERE YOU BUY BEER. all Six varietieS now available.
it 's crafty. IT’s just your t ype.
www.myrivertowne.com facebook/rivertowne.brewing
8
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
@rivertownebeer
Part Two By Melinda Urick
Steve Sloan • Ryan Bove, Auroch’s Brewing • Scott Smith, East End Brewing • Steve Crist, Penn Brewery
after the success of its inaugural celebration — nearly 300 craft beer events over 9 days — pittsburgh Craft beer week is back for its second year. Now an annual holiday, the craft-centric, week-long beer festival takes place at several locations in the region April 19-27, 2013. Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week is organized and executed by the Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance, a non-profit group that includes local brewery proprietors, distributors, bottle shop owners, restaurant managers, industry employees and enthusiasts that have all made a commitment to supporting craft beer in the Pittsburgh region. The mission of the organization is straightforward: to promote and enhance the thriving Pittsburgh craft beer scene with the creation of an exclusive week dedicated to the region’s craft beer culture. The Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance focuses on four areas: education, collaboration, cooperation and responsible libation. These aspects help to align and support their initiative and mission which prompt the success of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week. Chris Dilla, founder of Bocktown restaurants and business member of the PCBA, said, “During Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week, we come together as a community.” Bocktown is one of the many establishments locally that participated last year and continue to sponsor Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week. Both locations will have something unique happening every day of week. Through a series of tastings, meet-the-brewer discussions, tap takeovers, brewery tours, beer-paired dinners, charity bashes, and collaboration brews, Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week is designed to raise awareness of the cooperative efforts of the industry primarily for craft beer fans.
Colleen Leary, who became involved through Dilla, thought she might be interested in helping plan the event since she’s a selfdescribed huge craft beer fan and advocate. Leary represents the non-industry market on the PCBW board and manages social media and communications. “What makes it different than other cities’ beer weeks: we focus soley on craft beer and have guidelines in place so only craft beer can be included in Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week events and sponsorships.” Dilla added that the beer week model is intended to be inclusive, “Everybody can have something going on that week. [Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week] is about the entire industry. Basically, you don’t need to go elsewhere to find something unique. It’s here in Pittsburgh.” Last year, it was estimated that PCBW brought in over $3 million dollars to the local economy, and the organizers expect to do the same – if not more. The planning and implementing of a weeklong festival catering to the craft beer community takes decidedly longer. Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week board members are hard at work designing a schedule that appeals to all attendees, with events for all budgets. Brian Meyer, Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance member, actively assisting with the planning of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week, affirmed last year’s festivities, “Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week was a success due to the work and passion of all of our volunteers, participants and sponsors. Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week created collaboration among the breweries, distributors, bottle shops and restaurants, all of who have made an important commitment to supporting craft beer awareness in the Pittsburgh region.” During the nine-day schedule, attendees will find a variety of things to taste and do --many of which have become, or will be, regular traditions. Of those several anticipated large-scale events to take place during the week: the annual Keg Ride -- a charity bike tour from East End Brewing Company to an undisclosed location; the Brewer’s CraftPittsburgh.com 9
Ball, another charity event, sponsored by Fathead’s; the Beer Barge on the Gateway Clipper, hosted by Commonwealth Press; and “Unleash the Firkins” Real Ale Festival at the new Highmark Stadium. Meyer said, “The big winner is the ‘Unleash the Firkins’ Real Ale Festival. This is the first event being hosted specifically by The Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance. We are putting our heart and soul into this event, which will give Pittsburghers an opportunity to attend a real ale festival right in our own city.” “This is our first opportunity to organize an event ourselves that benefits the Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance and helping to extend our reach in regard to teaching and promoting craft beer in the Greater Pittsburgh area,” Meyer added. To commemorate Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week 2013, the development of a series of collaborative beers will continue the tradition of a successful three-brewery combined endeavor from last year. Keeping with the mission of cooperation, local breweries Church Brew Works, Full Pint Brewing, Penn Brewery, East End Brewing Company, and Rock Bottom Brewery will host teams to create five unique beers among these five locations. Comprised of respective brewers from these local breweries and a few independent brewers, the concept for each team is to use a common ingredient to craft its own beer. Available only through beer week, ideas “brewing” include a American Wild, a Belgian Black IPA, and a soured version of a Kentucky Common. Taking the collaboration effort even further, craft-friendly restaurants and breweries will be sponsoring or hosting beer dinners throughout the week that highlight the local food industry as well. On the schedule is a five-course meal at East End Brewing Company called Beer vs. Cocktails, featuring dinner from Cure and drinks from both East End and Wigle Whiskey; a Farm-to-Fork six-course dinner at Bocktown Monaca, featuring a bounty of food from local farms and regional partners; a strolling dinner party through Mt. Lebanon; and a Troeg’s/Fathead’s six-course meal at the Fathead’s restaurant in South Side. Bocktown also will bookend beer week with two Saturdays of a special Kegs n’ Eggs breakfast menu. The organizers of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week use the opportunity of cooperation to get some of the smaller guys -- the boutique or obscure, even -- some considerable attention. Beernutz Bottleshoppe, together with Wigle Whiskey, is holding a home brew competition open to all individual homebrewers. Rivertowne Brewing is partnering with Burgh Bees for a mini-festival focused on honey brews. Adding to the list of special partnerships, a subset of the craft beer community will be given prime attention this year: homebrewers. Local homebrewing organizations, like Three Rivers Underground Brewers (TRUB) and Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers
Brewer’s Ball
Keg Ride
CraftPittsburgh.com
11
(TRASH) will be participating and hosting several of their own events, including demonstrations. To celebrate this “hyperlocal” movement, Bocktown will be promoting a “17th Tap” for the duration of the festivities (supplies limited and depending on participation). Both locations of the restaurant will feature and sample the beer from a specified homebrewer with its own space on the tap list, allowing an opportunity for visitors to taste and leave feedback for each selected homebrewer. Dilla said, “Home brewing is cooking, brewing and creativity all together. [We] need to rally and support the homebrewers... get people interested in homebrew and the freshness of the product.” Members-only meetups are not yet in the plans for Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week, but there is always the possibility of that for the future. In the meantime, any guest can attend The Sour and The Funky at House of 1,000 Beers on a designated day. Or attend a Lavery Brewing event, hosted and bartended by the Pittsburgh Beer Ladies, on another. Then there’s the elusive PA Brew Tours trip to an undisclosed location... just a variety of things to take place during one distinctive week in April. Dilla concluded, “There is something happening so amazing in your backyard. Use the week to meet other people passionate about craft beer; look to social media for events; talk up something you’re passionate about. Year-after-year, you get to know all these people and see them in different spots -- it’s like a big family.” Many more activities as part of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week are coming together. Check the website: pittsburghcraftbeerweek.com and twitter (@pgh_beerweek) for regularly updated events and schedule. Keep track of attendance and beverages with Untappd -- the mobile application will release a badge for 2013 for check-ins to specific PCBW-partnered establishments.
12
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
SPONSOR DIRECTORY 3 Rivers Six Pack
6750 Hollywood Blvd., Delmont (724) 468-3005 3riversbeer.com
3100 Craft Beer
Frank Fuhrer Wholesale 3100 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 488-8844 fuhrerwholesale.com
Beer Express
4326 Steubenville Pike, Pittsburgh 15205 (412) 920-0511 beerexpressisbest.com
Beer Nutz
1335 Freeport Road, Pittsburgh 15238 (412) 963-6882 beerpgh.com
Cain’s Saloon
3239 W Liberty Ave Pittsburgh 15216 (412) 561-7444 cainssaloon.com
D’s SixPax & Dogz
1118 S Braddock Ave, Pittsbugh 15218 (412) 241-4666 ds6pax.com
Fat Head’s Saloon
1805 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 431-7433 fatheads.com
Galli Beer
800 Anderson St., New Kensington 15068 (724) 337-3581 gallibeercorp.com
Giant Eagle
Blue Dust
gianteagle.com/beer
Bocktown Beer and Grill
2518 East Carson St., Pittsburgh, 15203 (412) 381-3698 otbbicyclecafe.com
601 Amity St., Homestead (412) 461-6220 bluedustpgh.com 690 Chauvet Drive, Pittsburgh 15275 (412) 788-2333 500 Beaver Valley Mall Blvd Monaca 15061 (724) 728-7200 bocktown.com
Brews Brothers
315 Mt. Lebanon Blvd., Pittsburgh 15234 (412) 561-2075 brewsbro.com
OTB Bicycle Café
Pints For Pets Brew Fest May 18th - Altoona, PA pintsforpets.com
Pistella Beer Distributors
5514 Penn Ave., Pittsburgh 15206 (412) 361-0915
Rivertowne Brewing
5578 Old William Penn Hwy., Export 15632 (724) 519-2145 myrivertowne.com
Smokin’ Joe’s Saloon
2001 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 431-6757 smokinjoessaloon.com
Tony Savatt, Inc.
19-29 Shingiss St., McKees Rocks 15136 (412) 331-1222 TonySavatt.com
Vecenie Distributing Company
140 North Ave., Pittsburgh 15209 (412) 821-4618 beersince1933.com
Wilson-McGinley
85 36th St., Pittsburgh 15201 (412) 621-4420 wilsonmcginley.com
Zoe’s Beer Distributor
4102 Clairton Blvd., Brentwood 15227 (412) 881-4002 zoesbeer.com
ThankYou
CraftPittsburgh.com
13
BEER REVIEW
?
Have d e i r T u Yo
By Hart Johnson
WEYERBACHER | blithering idiot
11.1% Barley Wine Style Ale from Weyerbacher Brewing Company in Easton, PA. weyerbacher.com
A rather large English Style Barley Wine, the hops are just there for balance, letting all the malt shine here. Deep mahogany in color, rich notes of vanilla, dried fruit and caramel. The intimidating alcohol is surprisingly well hidden, but still best enjoyed with your seat in its full upright position. With a brewery supported 5 year shelf life, drink now or hide it someplace cool and dark and watch the richness evolve. Recommended if you like: Thomas Hardy’s Old Ale, Samichlaus, East End Gratitude
FULL SAIL | ipa
6% IPA from Full Sail Brewing Company in Hood River, OR. fullsailbrewing.com An English Style IPA from an old school American craft brewery new to the Pittsburgh market. Golden amber with a slightly herbal aroma and maybe a touch of honey. Dry yet balanced flavor, bitterness is very subdued compared to most modern American IPA, with a nice toasty maltiness. Recommended if you like: Yard’s IPA, Lagunitas IPA, Samuel Smith’s India Ale
PORTERHOUSE | oyster stout
5.2% Oyster Stout from Porterhouse in Dublin, Ireland. porterhousebrewco.com An intriguingly rich ale from the city that made stout famous. Deep brown with fluffy tan foam, lots of fruity and sweet malts in the aroma. Very rich malt flavor, caramel, roasty and a touch fruity. No evidence of anything fishy, or even bivalve-y, here. Recommended if you like: Yard’s Love Stout, Flying Dog Pearl Necklace, 21st Amendment Marooned on Hog Island
FINCH’S | secret stache stout
5.3% Stout from Finch’s Beer Company in Chicago, IL. finchbeer.com A big, rich, little stout. Pitch black color with brown foam, cocoa and vanilla notes on the nose. Big flavors of chocolate and vanilla up front, mild hop bitterness adds a woody dryness mid palate. Very nice lingering vanilla and malt finish. All the big bold flavors you’d expect in an imperial stout at half the alcohol. Recommended if you like: Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, Terrapin Moo-Hoo Stout, Fathead’s Oompa Loompa Stout
ARCADIA | b-craft black
8.5% Double Black IPA from Arcadia Brewing Company in Battle Creek, MI. arcadiaales.com A massive bitter and roasty ale. Deep dark brown, almost black, in color with rich mocha colored foam. Big bold citrus and pine hops on the nose with hints of bittersweet chocolate and roasted malt. Bracingly bitter with caramel and roast flavors playing supporting roles. Recommended if you like: Stone Sublimely Self Righteous, East End Black Hop, Blue Point Toxic Sludge 14
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
CraftPittsburgh.com
15
HOME BREWING
SESSION IPA
& BODY BUILDING By Brian Reed
I
like beer. And occasionally I like to consume several beers in one sitting. Sometimes I even like to maintain a consistent, steady level of consciousness after engaging in such activities. Unfortunately it’s difficult to do so considering the overwhelming number of high alcohol beers eating up the draft menus. Let me clarify: I take no issue with big beers on principle; I’m simply not a fan of leaving my favorite watering hole in a state of consummate sloshedness. If I’m going to have a few, the majority of those selections will be on the lower end of the ABV scale. But as often is the case when our desires are left unfulfilled, we must turn inward. Session strength styles can vary just as widely as there high-gravity counterparts; from rich and malty, to dry and hoppy, to crisp and clean, and everything in between (unintentional rhyming). For the sake of this exercise, let us focus on hoppy. I know ‘hoppy’ is a tragically broad and overused descriptor, BUT people like ‘hoppy’. I like ‘hoppy’. Unfortunately modern ‘hoppy’ styles are among the biggest offenders when it comes to failing to provide a sessionable drinking experience. Let’s change that.
Ok, so what the hell is a session IPA? I don’t see an explanation in the BJCP style guidelines or medals given out at GABF for this style—which, I may add, has garnered significant commercial attention as of late. We all know (give or take) what an American IPA generally consists of. Well, a ‘session’ IPA is, in essence, simply a lower ABV version of said style. Now I know people adopt varying ABV limits for what can still constitute a ‘session-strength’ beer. I generally subscribe to the notion that anything < or = 4.5% ABV can be considered a session beer. Those more privy to CAMRA standards may suggest < 4%; whereas more liberal US imbibers may consider ABVs as high as 5 or 5.5% the cut off. Where ever you draw the line, the underlying intent is to have a lower than average ABV option. You may be asking yourself, “Isn’t what you’re describing just an American Pale Ale?” NOPE. At least not in my book. I’ll concede that the differences can be subtle; however, they exist. Let’s first establish one point: “Session IPA” is a trade term, it’s a piece of marketing nomenclature used to sell intrinsic characteristics of a particular beer. The concept has caught on with homebrewers and commercial brewers alike, recently causing the terminology to become integrated in to the beer geek lexicon. That being said, I view the main differences between a ‘session IPA’ and an American Pale Ale as centering on the balance between malt and hops and the intentional focus on truly showcasing American hop varieties. If you attempt to pass off your session IPA as an APA, it will often get dinged for not having enough malt character and/or being skewed too far toward hop focus from a flavor perspective; additionally the hop bitterness is most likely too firm for the relative lack of malt intensity. Apart from those moderately significant differences, they aren’t that far off. It would be a fair argument to say we are talking about a more hop flavor focused, oftentimes more bitter, less malt balanced American Pale Ale. Although formulating the right combination of hop varieties and addition times will play a huge role in your final brew, the primary challenge of brewing a lower ABV beer is being able to create an interesting and complex malt character with lower gravity wort. The most common pitfalls that plague session-strength homebrews are weak malt character and thin, watery mouthfeel. Even though hops will undoubtedly be the focus of our recipe, ensuring complimentary malt flavor and substantial mouthfeel while maintaining a level of dryness and drinkability are my primary objectives.
16
Malt flavor and intensity is a matter of personal preference. As we will discuss further, I prefer little to no caramelized and/or melanoidin character in my IPAs. The malt character should be substantial but decidedly secondary to the hops. Again, it’s a matter of personal preference; as is the level of hop bitterness we are looking to achieve. Although we’re looking for a firm bitterness, it should be adjusted relative to the malt sweetness and intensity. I regularly opt for Maris Otter as my base malt in lieu of the standard US 2-Row. Maris Otter Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
lends a mild, soft biscuit character that adds to the overall malt impression without straying too far in to the melanoidin realm. This would be the same concept as adding a bit of light (10L) Munich malt; a hint of breadiness, but nothing too toasty. The decision we’ll more closely focus on for the sake of this discussion is how we will ensure that desired texture or mouthfeel. There are a number of ways to tackle this task. Judicious use of caramel or crystal malts can increase sweetness and, in turn, increase the perception of body. I tend to be of the mindset that an American IPA should be about the hops; at least my American IPA will be. That means a substantial but underlying malt character and a distinct lack of strong caramelized and melanoidin character. Generally, I will use a small amount of lighter crystal (10-15L) for some faint sweetness and a touch of color, but that’s it. We could also use dextrin malts, which will add more long-chain sugars (dextrins) to your wort. These less fermentable carbohydrates remain in your beer and add a degree of weight to the mouthfeel. Although I will use dextrin malts (specifically Briess Carapils) to my recipe, I’ll only utilize 2-3% as it can often add to an impression of sweetness and affect color a bit more than desired. Utilizing the long-chain polysaccharides known as beta-glucans to improve wort viscosity is also a common practice. In the brewing world betaglucans often come from the use of unmalted grains such as oats, rye, spelt, etc. Using such ingredients often results in a body described as ‘slick’ or ‘unctuous’, a pleasant thing indeed; however, these ingredients can be difficult to work with—requiring special attention in the mash and lautering steps. Also the qualities they impart may be more akin to those found in a rich, malty Oatmeal Stout rather than a well attenuated IPA. Simply mashing at a higher temperature (approximately 153-162 degrees Fahrenheit) and activating the appropriate alpha-amylase enzymes in order to create more dextrinous wort would certainly also help our cause; although, as I’ve suggested, we are looking for a well attenuated, dryer beer. A high level of residual sweetness is not what we’re shooting for, so building less fermentable wort just seems counterintuitive. Same goes for the concept of using a less attenuative yeast strain. Even if we were content in having a higher level of unfermented sugar in our beer (which we are not), our relatively low gravity would most likely result in a rather low final gravity regardless of what yeast strain we used—provided we have an appropriate sized, healthy/viable pitch of yeast (WHICH WE OBVIOUSLY DO!). My favorite solution for this particular conundrum is wheat. Including a significant portion of white wheat malt to your grainbill (10-20%) will provide the desired level of body while minimalizing residual sweetness and color contribution. The primary reason why wheat is able to deliver in the
areas of body and foam retention is the significantly higher levels of protein wheat displays over barley. Wheat also imparts its own unique, soft, bready flavor to the beer; a character I find an appealing contrast to a firmly bitter beer. Obviously the more wheat you add, the more noticeable its flavor contribution will be. Lastly, as is not the case with a few of our previous options, wheat can be utilized as a steeping grain or in a partial mash if you are brewing with malt extract. As is the case with all of our options, there can be potential downsides as well. Malted wheat differs from barley in that it lacks an outer husk. The husk material provides the structure for proper wort filtration through the grain bed during the lautering process. Having an insufficient amount of husk material in your lauter tun can easily result in a gummy, thick mash and, in turn, a stuck sparge. Although, depending on the individual system, most folk find that they don’t encounter problems until they hit about 30% wheat in their grainbill, adding ½ lb. or so of rice hulls to your mash will provide all you need for proper filtration (rice hulls are cheap and do not affect the flavor/color/gravity of your wort). Just remember to soak the hulls before integrating them in to your mash as they will absorb some liquid, potentially throwing off your water measurements. Another common complaint is that the higher protein levels found in wheat can often result in a slight to moderate haze in your beer. I look at it like this: I intended to pump some significant organic matter in to this wort in the way of a crap ton of hops (both in the late stages of the boil and through dry-hopping). News Flash: this will probably not be a crystal-clear beer anyway. Also, it will most likely be consumed quickly and at the peak of freshness. Once it’s properly conditioned, it will be poured straight down by face-hole. If you are truly concerned with the stability of your beer, consider filtration or some additional fining—an issue to tackle at a later date. Now that we have our grainbill and body situation dealt with, lets us turn our attention to the star of the show: the hops! The style generally focuses on big, boisterous American hops, showcasing the finer qualities of one or more varieties. Again, the varieties you choose are up to you. Don’t be afraid to experiment, not only with the ever-evolving new varieties, but some of the more classic hops can surprise you now and again. In order to avoid a harsh, sharp, or over-extracted bitterness I’ve adopted the practice of relying on large late hop charges in the boil, not only for a big dose of flavor/aroma, but also for a large percentage of my IBUs. Regardless of what you’ve been told, isomerization of alpha-acids (resulting in additional bitterness) does not immediately cease when the flame is killed. Now that you have the tools, be gone with you! Try your hand at brewing the oftunderappreciated low ABV beer. With homebrewer backing, we just might start seeing more than just a few session-strength brews pop up on PA draft lists.
Session IPA Batch Size – 6 gallon Boil Time – 60 min. OG – 1.042 FG – 1.010 ABV – 4.2% IBU – 50
*Assuming 68-72% efficiency
GRAINBILL
5.5 lbs. Pale Malt, Maris Otter 2 lbs. White Wheat Malt 1 lbs. Caramel/Crystal – 15L 0.5 lbs. Munich Malt – 10L 0.25 lbs. Dextrin Malt (Carapils)
*Extract Brewers: Replace Maris Otter with 7 lbs. Pale LME or 5.75 lbs. Light DME. Crush and steep additional malts excluding dextrin malt (when steeped instead of mashed it can contribute excess unconverted starch). Steep at approximately 150 degrees for 30 minutes. Remove steeping grains and commence boil, adding malt extract.
HOPS
0.5 oz. Amarillo (9.7% AA) – 60 min. 1 oz. Amarillo (9.7% AA) – 0 min. 1 oz. Centennial (8.7% AA) – 0 min. 2 oz. Simcoe (13.2% AA) – 0 min. 1 oz. Amarillo (9.7% AA) – Dry Hop (5-7 days) 1 oz. Centennial (8.7% AA) – Dry Hop (5-7 days) 1 oz. Simcoe (13.2% AA) – Dry Hop (5-7 days)
MASH
Single Infusion @ 150 degrees for 60 min.
YEAST/FERMENTATION White Labs WLP001 - California Ale Yeast or Wyeast 1056-American Ale Yeast Primary Fermentation: 10 days @ 65-68 degrees
CraftPittsburgh.com
17
COOKING WITH BEER By Mindy Heisler-Johnson
VOODOO GRAN MET
BROWN RICE RISOTTO R
isotto. It has a reputation for being persnickety and time consuming, better from a restaurant than fiddled with at home. I disagree. Creamy, classic Italian, usually made with onion, wine, and stock simmered over a low heat. It’s versatile as a main course or a side, and comes together pretty quick. Who DOESN’T want to make it at home?
The secret to perfect risotto starts with the rice – Arborio. This short grain rice has a high starch content creating a sauce while it cooks. This gives risotto its signature creamy consistency. My other issue was wine. I don’t cook with it. Our house is almost exclusively a beer house with exceptions made for some liquors, but it’s not hanging around to cook with. Don’t despair; there is a pretty amazing beer selection ready to step up. For this culinary adventure I chose Voodoo Gran Met, a Belgian-style triple from Voodoo Brewing in Meadville. I’ve had this on draft at the brewery and in bottles. It’s a delicious kind of boozy triple. It’s perfect for this recipe. The bready sweetness and mild spice reduce well, standing up in a rich risotto. I also decided to add some “healthy” and sub half the Arborio with a brown and wild rice blend. The texture was perfect and the added nuttiness from the brown rice compliments the beer well.
BROWN RICE RISOTTO
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp butter 1 medium sweet onion, small dice to taste salt and fresh ground pepper 2-3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup brown and wild rice blend 12oz Voodoo Gran Met (or other Belgian Triple) 1 cup Arborio rice 2 ½ cups chicken stock ½ cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese
18
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10
In a large sauté pan heat the oil over medium-high heat. Melt the butter into the oil and add the onion and garlic. Sweat over medium heat until the onions are translucent and the garlic smells sweet, about 4-5 minutes. Add the brown rice and sauté until coated. Add the Belgian triple, stir and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the beer out until the pan is almost dry. Stir frequently, making sure nothing is sticking. When the beer is reduced, add the Arborio and stir to combine. Add 1/3 of the stock and bring to a simmer. Repeat the process, reducing the liquid until it is almost gone and adding another 1/3 of the stock. Taste when all of the stock is cooked out. The rice should be firm but cooked through and the sauce creamy, not soupy. Add the cheese and stir in. Adjust the seasoning to taste and cover. Let the risotto rest for a few minutes before serving. This is great by itself, but add some peas and sautéed chicken and you have a whole meal! My favorites are with pan roasted chicken thighs or garlic shrimp. This recipe is also easy to convert to vegetarian by switching to a vegetable stock and vegan by eliminating the cheese and butter. I bet once you try beer in risotto you’ll never use wine again!
CraftPittsburgh.com
19
Spring Forecast: Amazing Variety
HUNDREDS OF DOMESTIC, IMPORT AND CRAFT BEERS NOW AVAILABLE in over 30 Giant Eagle and Market District CafĂŠs in western PA
For store locations or more information, please visit: GiantEagle.com/Beer. Not all items available in all locations. Restrictions apply. See store for details. 20
Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 10