CraftPittsburgh Issue #32 by CraftPittsburgh

cooking with beer • homebrewing • upcoming beer events • breweriana • have you tried...

Pumking & Company

Late summer will see the return of Pumking Imperial Ale and Warlock Imperial Stout. This year theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be joined by heavy hitters Rum Barrel Aged Pumking, and for the first time in bottles, Cold Press Coffee Pumking. A quartet of pumpkin pie-spiced brilliance!

table of contents editor’s notes upcoming events style profile - radler/shandy hand crafted - hoppy body care a special occasion calls for a special beer brewed by nature underwear bike ride hazy shade of pittsburgh the hoppy couple - draai laag shower beer exposé hops on lots pints & poses collection - chip echnoz have you tried... lawnmower beers brewer sit-down - david harries cooking with beer - hard cider brined bbq pork home brewing - british golden ale what’s brewing? - voodoo love child page

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5. 6. 8. 10. 12. 14. 16. 20. 24. 26. 28. 32. 36. 44. 48. 50. 52. 54.

staff

PUBLISHER

P•Scout Media, LLC

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Rob Soltis rob@craftpittsburgh.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Mike Weiss mike@craftpittsburgh.com

COPY EDITOR Kristy Locklin

SALES MANAGER

Tom Garzarelli tom@directimageadvertising.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Brian Meyer, Beth Kurtz Taylor, Joe Tammariello, Brian Conway, Amanda Stein, Mindy Heisler-Johnson, Hart Johnson, Ian Mikrut, Jack Smith, Lois Sanborne Ben Emminger, Kristy Locklin, Nathan Stimmel

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Tim Burns, Mike Weiss, Buzzy Torek, Jeff Zoet

CREATIVE

Soltis Design soltisdesign.com

COVER

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

Hallie Stotsky and Rebecca Robertson of Beer + Yoga at Brew Gentlemen. Photo by Jeff Zoet

FOR INFORMATION ON CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL CONTENT OR PLACING DISPLAY ADVERTISING PLEASE CONTACT US AT INFO@CRAFTPITTSBURGH.COM

AUGUST RELEASE

Craft Pittsburgh is issued bi-monthly by P•Scout Media, LLC for readers of legal drinking age. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of P•Scout Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of P•Scout Media, LLC. P•Scout Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertisers assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads.

editor’s notes

CHELADA MISTAKES • We do our best to put out a flawless issue every time, but unfortunately mistakes sometimes slip through our four-step proofing process. Normally we just learn from it and hope no one publicly shames us on Twitter. We’re addressing it this time because hardworking members of our team didn’t get the credit they’re due. We’re also going to blame it all on our Managing Editor Mike. Mr. Weiss just happen to be on day three of a week-long Gose and Red Bull fueled bender when he did the final proofing. He said, “Everything looked great!” and to “Send these 48-pages of glossy, journalistic, greatness to the printer.” We know now that wasn’t all true. We eventually found him under the 10th Street Bridge clutching a half-eaten Brassero’s burrito and mumbling something about the Oxford comma and how putting two spaces after a period really shows your age. Anyway, below is what he messed up. - Craft Beer and the Second Tier was written by Nathan Stimmel -H itchhiker - Under Construction was written by Ben Emminger and the photos were shot by Buzzy Torek. - Our cover model Andy “The Bearded Weirdo” Kron was sited as working for Rivertowne, when, in fact, he now works for East End.

We’re sorry to everyone affected and Mike owes you all a beer. • Speaking of East End, owner Scott Smith got to hang out with Anthony Bourdain and we’re all jealous. You can read all about it over at eastendbrewing.com.

PIT TSBURGH

CRAZY GOOD PUB GRUB! AWARD WINNING FAT HEAD’S BEER!

ORIGINAL SMOKED WINGS • SALADS HEADWICHES • MUNCHIES • BURGERS GROWLERS • 42 BEERS ON TAP 4, 6, 12 PACKS AND FOOD TO GO!

• I asked Hart to do a review of all his favorite “lawn mower beers” this issue. He said not unless he could do Modelo Especial Chelada, because quote: “I seriously love that shit.” So it’s in there. Just be happy I drew the line when he started talking about Zima. • Cheers to our friends Colleen and Kyle at Grist House on getting hitched. If you run into the brewlyweds make sure to give them a high-five. • At 56-pages this is our biggest issue ever. • By the time you read this Rusty Gold Brewing in Canonsburg will be open. Stop down and check them out. Cheers,

Rob Soltis

1805 E. CARSON STREET • SOUTH SIDE PITTSBURGH, PA 15203 • 412.431.7433

FATHEADS.COM

upcoming events Check out CraftPittsburgh.com for even more events and make sure to follow us on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram. To submit your event: events@craftpittsburgh.com July • 1 Frosty Mugs of Thunder Brewfest @ Somerset Historical Cntr • 8 412 Food Rescue Food Truck Round-up @ Hopfarm Brewing • 8 Imbibe Northside @ Mattress Factory • 11 PGH Libations Week Kickoff Bash @ Industry - Lawrenceville • 14-15 Deutschtown Music Festival @ North Side • 14-15 PGH Summer Beerfest @ Stage AE • 15 Bike 'n Brew Festival @ Oil City, PA • 21 Hops for Habitat Release Party @ Fury Brewing • 22 Arts 'n Drafts Handmade Market @ Rivertowne Brewing • 22 Beer on the Bay @ Erie Bayfront at Liberty Park • 23 Pups 'n Pints @ Grist House • 24 Beer, Wine, & Spirits Festival @ Foggy Mt. Lodge • 24 Brawl Under the Bridge III @ Blue Dust • 25 The Longest Day - Alzheimer Benefit @ Elwood’s Pub • 27 Underwear Bike Ride Ending @ Spirit, Lawrenceville • 28 Science of Beer Night @ Carnegie Science Center • 28-29 Picklesburgh 2017 @ Roberto Clemente Bridge • 28 Summer Brew on Grandview @ Grandview Avenue • 30 OpenStreetsPGH @ Downtown, Strip District, Lawrenceville

August • 5 Slippery Rock Brewfest @ North Country Brewing • 12 State College Brew Expo @ Tussey Mountain Ski Area • 12 Wine Spirits & FoodTruck Fest“alcular” @ Stage AE • 12 Drake’s Folly Brewfest @ The Blue Canoe, Titusville • 14-20 Pittsburgh Restaurant Week @ Around Tahn • 19-20 Corks & Kegs Festival @ Meadows Racetrack & Casino • 26 9th Annual BrewersFest @ Cooper’s Lake

September • 8 ACPF’s Pour at the Park @ North Park Boathouse CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

• 9 Steel City Big Pour @ Construction Junction

•9C aptain Sean M Ruane Memorial Corn Hole Tournament @ Greater Pittsburgh Aquatic Club

October • 6 HomeBrewer HoptoberFest @ Rivers Club • 21 Brewing Up a Cure @ PPG Wintergarden

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Words & Photos Brian Meyer

style profile

the

RADLER and the SHANDY A Tale of One Beer with Two Names

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

It’s hard to improve on beer. That wonderfully fermented beverage that we all seem to love has a lot to offer.

Totally Rad(ler)

For those of us that came into our teen years in the early 90’s, the word “rad” has more to do with a certain quartet of adolescent mutated martial artist terrapins than it does with beer. While radler may sound like a term for someone that uses the now-archaic adjective too often, it is, in fact, not even from the English language.

And while there’s new innovations and ingredients being used every day, the general idea of beer is one that’s cogent and hard to top. So, how do you take something as inimitable as beer and make it better? Well, that depends on your tastes, but when the weather gets warm and the days grow long, one great practice is to add another refreshing beverage like lemonade to make a mixture beyond compare. Ladies and gentlemen, I introduce to you the Radler.

The word radler comes from the German dialect, and translates directly to mean “cyclist”. Joking aside, this beer has quite the history in Germany as well as its own origin story that’s almost too good to be true. It’s believed that the radler first made its way into the world thanks to an innkeeper from Munich by the name of Franz Xaver Kugler in 1922, even though there’s record of mixing lemonade with beer back to around 1912 from as far away as Poland and the Netherlands.

A Radler is the name given to a beer and juice mixture that’s wildly popular in the summer months. In its most pure form, a radler is made up of half lager beer and half lemonade. Together, these seeming incongruous beverages join forces to give you a drink that’s low in alcohol, nearly devoid of harsh bitterness, and overwhelmingly refreshing. If there’s a better beverage for warm summer days, I’m at a loss for what it is.

The story goes that our good friend Franz was tending his bar one hot summer day when a horde of cyclists descended on his establishment after a long ride. The group was so large and thirsty that the crafty innkeeper decided to mix the least popular non-alcoholic drink he had on hand with the beer to stretch it and keep the bikers happy. As it happens, the mixer of choice was a lemonade soda. The rest, as they say, is history.

So if that’s what a radler is, what about the Shandy? For our purposes, these terms can be used interchangeably, even if they had their start in very different places. Before we get into some local examples of the shandy/radler style, it’s a good idea to look at the history of these beers so we know where these refreshing beers today came from.

Whether or not Herr Kugler served the cyclists this way is lost to history, but what we do know is that the radler, or “cyclist” style of mixed beer gained popularity not only with the cyclists of Germany, but with the general populous as well. The lower alcohol content paired with the refreshing sweetness and tang of lemonade made for a beverage that could be consumed en masse without risk of dehydration or expedient drunkenness.

Shandy Up to the Bar

Most people’s experience with these fruity mixed beers comes way of prepackaged beers that go under the moniker of shandy, with the best-known being the varieties marketed by Curious Traveler and Leinenkugel’s. While not exactly what we’d call craft beer, these two brews are many people’s introduction into the world of mixed beer. Shandy beers are named for an old British drink known as a “shandy gaff”. These beers were first mentioned in the 1850’s, and were beers that were mixed with ginger ale. As time progressed, the ginger ale was swapped out for a variety of other mixers, which is where both the radler and the shandy terms gain their interchangeability.

Radler or Shandy, Just Give Me a Beer

Whether you call them a radler or a shandy, you’re correct. Today you’ll find these beers widely distributed as pre-mixed potables as well as freshly mixed at bars and breweries alike, just don’t expect your local bartender to know what you mean if you ask him or her for a shandy if there isn’t one on draft. Today, you’ll find radlers featuring a variety of mixers including cranberry juice, lemonade, orange juice/soda, lime, grapefruit, and even cucumber and mint. Mostly though, you’re going to find lemon and grapefruit as the majority winners in pre-packaged offerings.

The Local Radler Scene

While you can buy these pre-mixed at your local bar or distributor, that doesn’t mean you have to, especially when you have a brewing scene like we do in Pittsburgh. I recently went on the hunt for some local radlers, and I was far from disappointed.

Spiced Rum Shandy from Maggie’s Farm Rum. I know what you’re thinking … how did I end up at a distillery while researching radler beers? While not as interesting of an answer as it could be, it’s simple collaboration that got a shandy with rum in it into my very thankful hands. Thanks to new changes to laws concerning alcohol in PA, Maggie’s Farm has a few beers on draft from local breweries, but the one they chose for their rum shandy comes from Spoonwood Brewing. Their White Hot Witbier is a wit that’s brewed with white pepper and habanero, and it’s this beer that serves as the basis for the highest ABV shandy I’ve ever had. Add to this beer a few ounces of their award-winning spiced rum and fresh-squeezed lemon and lime juice and what you have is a concoction that those cyclists from the 1920’s couldn’t have imagined. The Spiced Rum Shandy has a heady aroma of spiced rum with a little beer hiding in the background. There’s not much citrus in the aroma, but it makes up for it in flavor. The taste is equal parts spiced rum, lemon, lime, and peppery maltiness from the beer. The pepper works beautifully with the spice in the rum to give you a well-rounded drink that makes up for what it lacks in sessionability with a depth of flavor that’s impressive to say the least. Overall, while this is far from a true shandy, it’s still bright and refreshing while keeping a very real rum edge to the drink. Whether you call them radlers or shandys, what matters is that these summertime favorites should be your next favorite beer. Knowing these aren’t just “fruity” beers, but rather specially mixed concoctions meant to keep you refreshed and cool on hot summer days should help you choose one with pride the next time you’re looking for a warm weather beer. Brian Meyer is a beer journalist located in the greater Pittsburgh area. Find him on twitter @thebriandrinks & hire him via his business Fresh Brew Media, Inc.

The most true-to-form radler I found locally was from Helicon Brewing Company in Oakdale, which is just outside of Robinson. This brewery has been coming out with some amazing beers since they opened their doors, and with a location next to a major bike trail, there’s really no better place to try a fresh radler. Made using their Helles Lager and your choice of Sanpellegrino Limonata (lemon) or Aranciata (orange), this is what the radler/shandy style is all about. Mixed fresh one at a time, the Helles is a 4.7 percent ABV beer with 20 IBU. The ABV is cut in half when mixed with the Sanpellegrino, and the bitterness is dropped dramatically as well.

For a change from the typical radler, Helicon also suggests replacing the helles with their American IPA with Citra and Mosaic hops. For this beer I chose the orange Sanpellegrino to really change things up. The beer was still a hazy yellow, but the aroma was very different to say the least. Along with the strong orange aroma there was a background of the citrus hop character the original beer is known for. Since this beer started life at 6.7 percent ABV and 70 IBU, there is more beer character left over in the final mixture. In the end, this non-typical radler was bright, refreshing, and a great, slightly alternative take on the style. There’s something to be said about coloring inside the lines, and while having a beer that perfectly fits into its style can be amazing, it’s just as fun to break the mold and go totally different. This is how I can to try the

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The new concoction has a hazy appearance and a bright lemon taste with no bitterness. The malty character of the helles beer remains, giving this mixture a slight lemon biscuit character on the finish. With a beer this refreshing, it’s no wonder there were a couple cyclists at the bar while I was doing my “research”.

hand crafted Words Beth Kurtz Taylor

HOPPY BODY

CARE Many of us who were raised in the ‘70s nostalgically recall Body on Tap shampoo; it boasted beer as a major ingredient and claimed to provide bounce and sheen to one’s locks. There is a lot of infor mation about using beer as a hair wash still today online, it’s not just an old wives’ tale. So, if beer is beneficial, what about its component parts, say hops for example?

As part of a personal journey to better health, Erica Crystol, who manages a medical wellness office, looked for solutions to health and well-being beyond traditional Western medicine. “After experiencing a rare reaction to a joint injection that negatively altered the course of my health, I began to research holistic medicine and the internal and external effects of chemicals in and on the body,” she recalled. “I learned that what you put onto your body was equally as important as what you put into your body.”

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

She eventually received certification in homeopathic medicine in 2013 and, in 2015, started her business CrystolClear Naturals, LLC.

In addition to skin care products, Erica also produces herbal tinctures and blends essential oils. By combining all natural ingredients, the wellness and beauty goods that she offers are free of additives, harsh chemicals or artificial ingredients. Studying the ways in which ancient cultures, such as Native Americans or the Chinese, ate and practiced medicine fascinates Erica. In her ongoing research, she explored the health benefits of hops. The conical flowers (or strobiles) of the hop plant, Humulus lupulus, contain over 200 essential oils; about 22 of which impart the “hoppy” flavors and aromas

to beer. They have long been used in herbal medicine as a treatment for anxiety, restlessness and insomnia. Additionally, she found that they have natural skin healing and anti-viral properties. Erica first infuses neutral oil with hops that she sourced from a local brewer. In this case, she soaks them in almond oil for a prolonged period to extract the essential oils then uses that end product to fortify the lotion. The dried flowers are also ground and mixed into lotions, soaps and scrubs they enhance the fragrance and exfoliating properties. Customers report relief from eczema and psoriasis. Erica sells her products predominantly at craft and vendor fairs. To find out more about her products, follow and message her on Facebook at CrystolClear Naturals, LLC. Vermont Country Store. For a more modern take, search Duffy’s Brew or Bröö Craft Beer products. They make shampoos and conditioners with craft IPA and botanicals such as aloe leaf and fennel seed. Plus the products, like Erica’s, contain clean, natural ingredients! Oh, by the way, Body on Tap shampoo is still available online from The Vermont Country Store. For a more modern take, search Duffy’s Brew or Bröö Craft Beer products. They make shampoos and conditioners with craft IPA and botanicals such as aloe leaf and fennel seed. Plus the products, like Erica’s, contain clean, natural ingredients!

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we love pgh

a special occasion calls for a

Sp ecial

e e r B

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

Last month, Strip District’s Smallman Galley was the only place in town to grab a pint of Saison La Seconde, a tart and funky version of East End Brewing’s Premier Saison, aged in red wine barrels with Brettanomyces added for a year-long, secondary fermentation process.

The occasion? May was National Foster Care Month, and all month long a portion of the proceeds from every pint, as well as from the ‘Subliminal’ cocktail made with the beer, were donated to Auberle’s foster care program.

Based in McKeesport, Auberle’s mission is to “help troubled children and families heal themselves” by providing housing services, behavioral health care, workforce development programs and foster care to over 3,400 atrisk children and families in Southwestern PA. On this particular evening, people gathered to help contribute to a specific cause: to buy suitcases and duffel bags for children in the foster care system. The idea came from Garso’s eldest son, Cooper. When he first moved in with Garso and his wife, Danielle, he carried all of his belongings with him in a trash bag. “Can you imagine what that does to a child?” Garso asks. Cooper was only five at the time, but, a few years later, when Tim and Danielle adopted him, he could still recall the ignominy of carrying all his possessions in a plastic bag meant for trash. So, at his very own adoption party, Cooper asked guests to bring suitcases to donate to foster children at Auberle. And so the idea was born.

Charity happy hours are hardly uncommon—Smallman Galley offers a different “charity cocktail” each month—but this month held a special significance: East End owner Scott Smith and Smallman Galley’s Bar Manager Tim Garso both foster for Auberle.

Tim and Danielle have fostered for nearly four years and have since adopted another foster son into their family. They currently foster four more children that they hope to adopt also. Garso says that despite the heartache, the court hearings and case worker visits, it has all been worth it.

“It’s the most positive thing you can ever do,” says Smith, present at the happy hour with his wife, Julie.

“It’s the best thing that my wife and I have have ever gotten into, without a doubt,” he says.

Words & Photo Brian Conway

East End owner Scott Smith & Smallman Galley’s Bar Manager Tim Garso

The Smiths are just over a year into fostering: in fact, they began to foster the same week that East End began to barrel-age La Seconde, lending even more significance to the event. Two weeks prior to the May happy hour the Smiths had given back a child they had fostered for six months. Despite the heartache and grief of losing a child they had grown to love, they were already looking into welcoming another child into their home. “Did you forget how emotionally invested you were? Do you remember how much you cried?” Julie Smith asks rhetorically. “Yeah, but you know what, it’s worth it when you see that smile.” By the end of May over $1,000 dollars were donated to Auberle to purchase bags for children, not to mention a pile of suitcases donated by attendees that evening.

Thanks to the generosity and love of people like the Garsos and Smiths, these bags will provide children in the foster care system with a sense of dignity, pride, and normality as they await an opportunity for a permanent, loving, nurturing home. “Love your babies,” says Julie Smith. “Love them while you got them.” You can learn more about Auberle and how to become a foster parent by visiting auberle.org/foster-care

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“One of the sad charms of foster children is that we’ve been blown away by the ability of our kids to process different trauma,” says Garso, “whether it’s the pain of losing parents, switching homes, or the uncertainty of what the future might hold.”

Words Ben Emminger Photos Courtesy of Nathan Troyan

Brewed by Nature Butler Brew Works Co-Owner Nate Troyan brings authenticity to adventure theme through wilderness escapades. For success and recognition to occur in business, an image must be made of a company. Some employ a catchy slogan. Some design an elaborate logo. Some cast a commercial. While these are all profitable and positive moves, the easiest way to gain recognition with consumers is to be authentic; live the scene created. For the owners of Butler Brew Works in Butler, Pa, that scene is adventure, and their authenticity stems from the actions and interests of Nate Troyan. Aside from serving as a co-owner and sales manager for the brewery located on South Main Street in the heart of town, Troyan is also a wildlife field biologist and botanist. His work in wildlife and fisheries science has taken him to environments as far as Alaska, Colorado and beyond. Combine his outdoor-oriented résumé with a passion for hunting and fishing, it is clear that Troyan embodies the “Adventurous Ales,” attitude of Butler Brew Works. “I’m the one climbing mountains, tracking big game, fishing large rivers. I’m bow fishing and hunting and I’m in the wilderness and the other owners look at me and say, ‘You’re that kind of man that we’re trying to encompass here.’”

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Troyan’s outdoor interests were planted at a young age by his father and upbringing in rural Pennsylvania. That love of the wilderness led him to study Wildlife and Fisheries Science at Penn State University. His degree allowed Troyan to travel out of the area to intern as a fisheries research technician in Kenai, Alaska in 2007. In this role, Troyan not only gained experience in his career field, but also took his first steps into the craft beer culture.

where I got exposed to it way up north and came back down into the Rockies and found there was nothing really quite like it. This was before the big craft beer boom that hit around here, too.” Eventually Troyan decided to venture home to western Pennsylvania, where he soon found himself on another journey: Butler Brew Works. Fellow owners Nick Fazzoni and Travis Tuttle expressed their interest in having Troyan come onto the team and, according to Troyan, “Looked at me as kind of the embodiment of the ‘Adventurous Ales’ scene.” Troyan adds that the co-owners’ work ethic and drive to get the project on the roll is what influenced his decision to jump on board. “During my time in Alaska I found people that just possessed an incredible work ethic and with the way that their nights and days are, I just found that many people up there work extremely hard and don’t necessarily know when to stop,” he explains. “That’s a trait I really admire in people and that’s a trait that I see heavily in those two. When they saw something that they wanted to chase and had something that they really believed in, that’s what fueled me to get behind them.” The early explorers and historical figures image meshed perfectly with Troyan’s past experiences as well as his field and stream hobbies, allowing him to take some of his biology knowledge and help push that authenticity further by foraging for ingredients whenever possible. “I’ll get out in the wild and collect mint for our ‘Wild Mint Mojitos.’ I’ll be collecting wild grapes this summer to add to our batches of beer. It’s a great, collective group, but when it comes to those beers that carry a theme centered around that wilderness concept, that’s where I definitely have a larger part in helping,” he says. With a resume as long as Troyan’s and an extremely busy lifestyle between fieldwork and brewing, one might think that he’d burn out, but he notes that no matter what he’s doing that day he is happy and thankful.

“I wasn’t really into the beer scene until I got up there and had my first beer (an Alaskan Amber Ale). It just seemed like everywhere we went and around every corner there was craft beer available or people home-brewing in their garages,” says Troyan on his newfound interest in the culture.

“I am someone who has somehow found a way to marry and blend all of my passions together. I put an equal effort into my free time and getting time out on the water and then coming in and being that face in the pub, building our clientele,” he says. “Anytime I’m in the pub or the brewery, I’m happy.”

As he continued to chase his wildlife career out west to Colorado, Troyan says his craft beer interests followed, too.

Butler Brew Works opened their doors in 2016, and, so far, have seen success in bringing another business to the town. While their recipes and draft lists might change over time, one thing will remain certain: Troyan has definitely put the adventure in their ‘Adventurous Ales.’

“I loved the social aspect of it; the people behind the beers and the ideas that came and went with it,” he says. “It was kind of one of those things

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To catch Troyan or the other owners, be sure to stop in at Butler Brew Works. 101 South Main Street, Butler, PA 16001 Butlerbrewworks.com

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Follow Troyanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adventures on Instagram @NathanTroyan

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VICTORY

BIKE RIDES PGH Return for Fifth Year UNDERWEAR

Words Ian Mikrut Photos Buzzy Torek

What does freedom mean to you? For many of our readers, maybe it’s that first pint at happy hour on a Friday afternoon or a bourbon barrel-aged pour two years in the making. Maybe it’s a road trip with friends or a long hike in solitude, pondering the wonder of life.

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

Or maybe it’s the simple pleasure of biking in your underwear with hundreds of peers en route to a cold drink.

had a lot of feedback that [the ride] is very exhilarating and freeing. It gives you a sense of freedom that you wouldn’t necessarily have just riding around in your jeans or in normal, everyday riding gear.” While the ride definitely aligns with the goals of organizations like BikePGH and Mayor Bill Peduto’s administration as far as bicycle advocacy and alternative forms of transportation go toward making Pittsburgh a better place, the underwear ride is its own, unique, grassroots entity. And it has grown substantially as an underground staple of summers in Pittsburgh. “I just enjoy doing it. It’s fun, it’s exciting, the majority of Pittsburgh are very nice and very enthusiastic when we’re rolling through. When we hit Penn and 10th Downtown everybody explodes, everyone’s hootin’ and hollerin’ when we get into the Cultural District and there’s a lot of people watching. It gets a lot more exciting,” Kowalski says.

Look no further. Underwear bike rides are back for the summer and have been organized in Pittsburgh since 2012. Scott Kowalski took over organizing the rides last year, which usually end at a local brewery or bar.

The first ride in Pittsburgh had around 25 people. It’s maxed out at well over 300. Kowalski estimates the rides now average between 200-250 riders all in their best skivvies brought together through nothing more than Facebook event postings of a meeting time and place. End locations this year include James Street Gastropub, Penn Brewery and Spirit.

“One of the biggest things I think is that people are a little nervous because of body image and things like that and what they find is that they’re extremely accepted. It doesn’t matter: age, shape, size, whatever. We’re a community and everybody is very positive,” Kowalski says. “I’ve

There’s definitely a party vibe that goes with putting underwear, alcohol and bicycling together, but Kowalski insists on riders being responsible in how they enjoy themselves afterwards and do not condone reckless drinking and riding.

The usual blow back from some motorists still occurs, whether that’s angry horn honking, aggressive driving or creating dangerous situations for bicyclists which is something that frustrates Kowalski. Given most Pittsburgh motorists are willing to sit in hour-long game traffic, five minutes at a red light at 8 p.m. for happy, scantily clad bike riders, doesn’t seem like a tall order. There are a lot worse things 200 people could be doing at the same time. Kowalski tries to instill a positive vibe for the ride, thanking cars for their patience, smiling and waving. And more happy horns tend to follow. And aside from 911 calls from confused onlookers, there haven’t been any major issues. In fact, Kowalski says that any police interaction has been positive and supportive, even helping guide riders through Shady Side last year.

Live Bands

ON THE ALL SAINTS PATIO

all Summer Long

“It also empowers people to ride. I talk to many people who are nervous about riding on the road and they actually drive to the event and then they end up riding to the grocery store eventually. It gives them some confidence,” Kowalski says. “I’ll congratulate everybody on an 11-mile ride after the event and I’ve had people freak out. They don’t realize that 11 miles on a bicycle is nothing. It gives people a sense of accomplishment.”

Check out the schedule at AllSaintsCraftBrewing.com GREENSBURG, PA

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So strip down and join in the remaining 2017 Pittsburgh Underwear Bike Rides July 27, Aug. 31, Sept. 28 and Oct. 26. Check for more details at facebook.com/PghUnderwearBikeRide

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

A HAZY SHADE OF

PITTSBURGH Words Nathan Stimmel Photo Jeff Zoet

It’s probably safe to say that, in 2017, the New England IPA is out of the woods. Known by a few other names (Vermont IPA, Northeast IPA), these hazy, juicy members of the American ale family have left the kids’ table and taken their place alongside the grown-ups with “coast” in their titles. Old-school hop heads go nuts for the bright, rich character these beers deliver, and even the bitter-averse who thought they didn’t like IPAs are being turned on to these fullflavored, bite-tempered hop vehicles. With more drinkers chasing the haze, and more brewers showcasing it in their portfolios, the NEIPA is at peak popularity and climbing.

“We had a huge uphill battle at first. A lot of folks in the industry told us we had yeast/process problems,” he said. “The public was confused, but curious. Education was critical.” In December of 2015, a post on the Gentlemen’s blog, titled “Ode to Haze,” served as a quasi-manifesto, lighting the path on which they had embarked with their hoppy offerings. They trusted the direction head brewer Zach Gordon was taking the recipes, including their core General Braddock’s IPA. And drinkers’ tastes came around. Brew Gentlemen garnered national attention last year when Paste m agazine declared General Braddock’s the second-best IPA in the country, in a blind tasting of nearly 250 IPAs nationwide. Lines run out the door when they tap a new double IPA. Locally, Brew Gentlemen have become nearly synonymous with this metamorphosis of a classic craft style, and criticism has largely fallen silent.

While West Coast IPA will never die, the conversation is shifting away from tongue-scraping pine and citrus to this rounder, fuller profile. “We’re seeing people take things to the extreme again,” Katase says, with some amusement, “except now everyone is trying to make the juiciest instead of the most bitter. Now, instead of rattling off 100+ IBUS, it’s ‘Whose fruit salad is the most exotic?’” If questions about NEIPA’s legitimacy are dying, they are being replaced by those regarding its sustainability. How long can the haze hype last? “I think the idea that it’s a fad and will fade entirely is totally false,” says Andrew Witchey, owner and head brewer of Dancing Gnome. Before opening the doors to the Sharpsburg brewery in October of last year, he made a bold aesthetic and business choice: focus almost exclusively on creating hazy, hop-forward pale ales. On opening day, three of the four beers on tap fit this niche, with subtle but distinct variations. Since then, over 80 percent of their beers brewed have been cloudy pales, IPAs, or double IPAs. Witchey is drawn to the “overall organoleptic experience” of these beers.

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As with anything new, though, initial reaction was mixed. Not everyone was sure what to make of an IPA that looked like pineapple juice. Many were hesitant, if not outright resistant, as Brew Gentlemen Co-founder and CEO Matt Katase can attest.

“I’m somewhat of a flavor whore,” he offers unabashedly. “Food isn’t just sustenance to me; it’s like beautiful art that has a nearly unhealthy emotional response.” Like many makers of the style, Witchey sees the cloudiness not as a goal, but an inevitable byproduct of a beverage meant to engulf the senses. “In designing them, it’s important to hit on all of these sensual aspects,” he says. “So you have the color/haze, the aroma, the flavor, the play-off of those two, carbonation/bitterness/body that all help to create a certain mouthfeel that further enhances the rest of the senses.”

“

I like to make sure people understand that the BJCP is descriptive, not prescriptive. They’re not the gatekeepers.

”

Pittsburgh’s drinkers seem to agree. Like Brew Gentlemen, the folks at Dancing Gnome have seen heavy traffic out of their taproom, selling pints, growlers, and more recently cans, directly over the bar. This isn’t just for convenience. Due to the high volume of volatile ingredients, freshness plays an essential role in the life of NEIPAs, possibly more than any other style of beer. You’ll almost never see cans of NEIPA sitting on retail shelves. The closer they’re consumed to the source, the better, making the beer wholly compatible with drinking local. New England IPA is a young buck in the beer world, and as such has yet to be officially canonized as a style. Malcolm Frazer is doing what he can to change that. A National Judge with the Beer Judge Certification Program and author at Brulosophy.com, Malcolm’s one of a few BJCP members who’ve undertaken the task of ratifying NEIPA for the BJCP Style Guidelines, arguably the most authoritative collection of criteria on beer styles available. “I like to make sure people understand that the BJCP is descriptive, not prescriptive. They’re not the gatekeepers,” Frazer explains from the airport in Minneapolis. He’s flown to this year’s National Homebrewers’ Conference, in part to give a presentation describing what this subset of BJCP Category 21 currently “seems to be”.

(Oversimplified, Completely Unofficial)

New England IPA Style Guidelines Ingredients

Newer breeds of aromatic hops (Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, Motueka are favorites) High percentage of adjunct grains (wheat, oats, flaked barley, rye) Low-flocculating yeast with strong esters Calcium chloride and gypsum added to water

Process

Hop additions light in boil, heavy hopping toward end of boil, intense dry-hopping, often with multiple additions, unfiltered

Sensory

Soft mouthfeel with full body, intense hop aroma and flavor, often fruity and tropical Restrained, but supportive, bitterness, hazy, cloudy, or opaque with color ranging from pale straw to orange *As with any evolving style, plenty of creative liberties are taken from brewer to brewer. YMMV.

name a few—in order to classify similar ingredients, processes, and sensory profiles to arrive at an overall picture of the style’s parameters. While it may be exciting to see something as timeless as beer transforming in real time, it makes taxonomy a challenge. As much as a new style presents a moving target, so follow efforts at classification. “It’s a work in progress,” Frazer adds, “kind of taking a wait-and-see position that the style is evolving.”

“We just kind of bunch up a bunch of beers that people consider in that theme and then describe them the best we can,” he says.

For now, though, one thing that’s clear about these unclear beers: the crowds are going wild. With the comfort of distance, Katase at Brew Gentlemen can smile at how far they and their fans have come.

Along with juice-bombs from the afore-mentioned breweries, Malcolm and his colleagues no doubt examined samples from some of the fledgling style’s hallmark brewers—The Alchemist, Tree House, Trillium, Hill Farmstead, to

“Now, we get ‘hate mail’ when we announce a new beer coming out that doesn’t fall in line with the ‘hazy’ IPA,” he says. “Look how many breweries have shifted their focus to making these styles. That’s what the public wants.”

JUICE ME! More hazy hop-bombs brewed in Western PA

• Fury Brewing Company - Pittsburgh Fog • Hitchhiker Brewing Company - The Barbarian • Insurrection - Sedition • Levity Brewing Co. - Haze Frehley • Rivertowne Brewing Company - Gisele

• CoStar Brewing - Northeast IPA

• Roundabout Brewery - Kaleidoscope

• East End B rewing Co. - Partly Clahdy

• Voodoo Brewery - Hazy Afternoon

• Grist House Craft Brewery - Hazedelic Juice Grenade

• Yellow Bridge Brewing - Dude Wanted Juice

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hoppy couple

DRAAI LAAG 501 East Ohio Street, PGH 15209

Joe Location

Open since 2009, Draai Laag (pronounced ‘Dry Log’) is located in the small neighborhood of Millvale, which is only a few minutes from downtown Pittsburgh. Millvale is home to a couple of other popular spots including another brewery, which I’ll let Amanda talk about, and a unique concert venue and studio called Mr. Smalls. If you are into music, you have probably been to Mr. Smalls at least once. Draai Laag is a great place to grab a beer and a bite before seeing your favorite band shred it up at Mr. Smalls. Draai Laag is also walkable to many other shops and has a convenient parking lot out front.

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

Beer

I’m gonna say it … Draai Laag might have some of the most unique beers in all of Pittsburgh and I think anyone who has been there would agree. I normally don’t like Belgian-style beers (the wheat variety anyway), but these funky beers speak to me in a different way. Being a fan of sour and wild ales, like Berliner weisses, I am perfectly at home at Draai Laag. All of their beers are hand bottled, have a very distinct, wild, funky, farmhouse taste, and some even use open-air fermentation. Besides enjoying their Relic (6.3% ABV), which used yeast extracted from the protective wax covering on a 17th century French Monastic cabinet (what!?), I also had one of the best Berliner weisses to date. This sour beer was called Razmata (6.4% ABV) and it only comes in a bottle decorated with raspberry skulls designed by resident artist and taproom manager, Santana. It was mega-sour and fruity and I had to have two.

Atmosphere

Dark and quiet inside, bright and summery outside; that basically describes the feel of Draai Laag. We saw some folks inside playing a board game while another gentleman was on his laptop getting some work done -- the free wireless making that possible. It was raining a bit when we were there so we decided to post up at the bar. Plenty of seating was available and we even saved a few bucks being that it was happy hour. If the weather is nice, definitely plan on hanging out in their biergarten outside.

Food

The food at Draai Laag is currently a bit smoky - specializing in brisket and pulled pork options like sandwiches and tacos. We split some nachos, but the star of the show for me was the sandwich I had called the Slobby Bifko. Imagine a baguette stuffed with perfectly smoked brisket, cheddar cheese, pickled onions, fresh jalapenos, and horseradish mayo. The surprisingly more-spicy-than-I-thought toppings perfectly complimented the smokiness of the very tender brisket. To top it off, I opted for the Cajun potato salad as my side and was immediately turned away from traditional potato salad. Make sure not to eat before heading to Draai Laag.

Amanda

North Side. Since 1954.

Location

Two other Hoppy Couple favorites are also nearby to Draai Laag. Grist House is within walking distance from Draai Laag in Millvale and Dancing Gnome is just a few miles down the road in Sharpsburg. Also in Millvale is Jean-Marc Chatellier’s French Bakery which (according to Joe) makes the best macaroons in the city. I stopped there and bought one of each kind for his birthday before we headed to the brewery. I’d recommend picking some up before you head to Draai Laag to save as dessert for later!

Beer

I definitely have to agree with Joe; Draai Laag has some of the most unique beers we’ve ever had around Pittsburgh. Beginning with a passion for science and experimentation, Founder Dennis Hock has really paved the way for wild ales in the ‘Burgh. Some people think sour/wild beers are not for them; if that sounds like you, I implore you to give Draai Laag a chance to change your mind! While I do enjoy all of their beers, there are a few that stand out above the rest for me. The Nanabam (5.1% ABV) is a dry-hopped farmhouse ale made with local yeast and fermented with bananas which makes it a perfectly tart, tropical, refreshing ale that I could have drank all night. The Geestelijke (9.0% ABV) is a funky farmhouse ale made with their very own signature Wild Angels yeast strain and aged on lees which makes this ale subtly tart with an earthy finish. If you can’t decide on one beer (like me!) you can get a flight of three 5-oz. beers at a time.

Piisbbgh style.

Atmosphere

The staff at Draai Laag welcomes you as you walk in the door and happily walk you through their menu to answer all of your questions about their unique selections. Then you get to sip on your sour and enjoy the beautiful, rustic decor with reclaimed wood and cement walls, relaxing dim lighting, and a chalkboard wall with their beer menu which is adorned with new hand-drawn artwork each week. Their inside space is a nice quiet place to relax with a beer, but their new biergarten is really something to see. Picnic benches, high top tables, garden lights, and greenery make it a peaceful alfresco space to share some beers with friends.

On the trail or in the woo ds, we’re here fo r your post ri de ... refreshments .

Food

Rotating food vendors and B.Y.O.F. nights used to be a staple but Draai Laag recently opened their own kitchen, which is already incredible and seems to continually evolve. Their menu at the time of our visit had mostly sandwiches and tacos (which are perfect pairings for any beer), but it does look like their menu changes from time to time with creative new additions. This visit, I had the ‘Orchard’ sandwich that had smoked turkey, melted brie (because no meal is complete without some kind of cheese), green apple, and apple butter on a crispy baguette. Holy cheesy perfection! The turkey was so tender and juicy, there were delicious globs of cheese in nearly every bite, and the sweetness of the green apple and apple butter complimented the rest of the savory sandwich perfectly. I was stuffed when we left, but can’t wait to go back for more soon!

Made fresh everyday, be sure to try the one with peanut butter. Really!

a great sele ction of seasonal craf t beer on tap. Espe cially the local br ews.

Some people may be nervous or hesitant to try a sour or funky beer but Draai Laag knows what they’re doing and will not steer you wrong. Stop in for a visit and try something new; broaden your beer horizons! Who knows … you may find a new favorite style of beer; I know I did! The Hoppy Couple is one part Joe Tammariello and one part Amanda Stein. We don’t consider ourselves beer experts, but we spend a good bit of our free time exploring the city of Pittsburgh and sampling all of the food and drink it has to offer. Say “Cheers!” if you see us out!

north park boathouse • historic southside

otbbicyclecafe.com

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Summary

Words Lois Sanborne

There exist a few perfect combinations in this universe–peanut butter and jelly, protons and neutrons, cash and free time–but nothing goes together better than a hot shower and a cold beer. The shower beer, invented many years ago by a visionary who dared to dream, has come into vogue lately. If you aren’t familiar with the concept, it’s the ultimate form of relaxation, and a truly enlightening concept. Safety first when it comes to drinking in the shower and cans are the way to go! Glass is dangerous, and, as more and more craft breweries join the can revolution, the options are seemingly endless. The last few years

have seen the emergence of craft in 16- and 19.2-ounce cans, you know, if you’re in it to win it. Thanks to the magic of the internet, there are a wide variety of koozies for purchase that suction right to your shower wall, if you aren’t fortunate enough to have a good shelf built in there, or a hanging organizer works just as well. When selecting a style, typically the lighter, more refreshing types of beer are the best, so for this think of lighter styles: Goses, wheat beers, IPAs, pale ales, cream ales, Berliner weisses, hefeweizens, fruit beers, and some of those delightful beers that straddle more than one of these categories. Typically the best shower beers are going to be on the lower alcohol side of things, so think 6 percent ABV or lower. At the end of the day though, the perfect beer is what you choose for the ultimate form of relaxation, so grab a can and get scrubbing!

Shower Beer Recommendations (Year-Round) Neshaminy Creek Crydon Cream Ale

Evil Twin Mission Gose

Sometimes referred to as a “lawn mower beer”, this option qualifies as one where you can take it from lawn work to clean-up time. A little sweetness and a nice, crisp finish round this one out to make it an ideal shower beer/lawnmower beer/pool beer.

As Ned Flanders once said “It’s fine and dandy like sour candy.” Light, zesty, spritzy, and well-balanced, this one earns a spot in your suction koozie.

Founder’s All Day IPA

Victory Prima Pils

A beer that truly lives up to its name, this is for your marathon showers, not the quick in-and-out splash. Crisp and refreshing, All Day has hops in all of the right places. Truly the best choice for those who love IPAs and hot showers, so really, most people.

This one is a real crowd-pleaser, and goes together with a hot shower like a lime and a coconut. This is one of the best examples of the style, and boasts a slight Noble hop undertone, with a finish as clean as you will be once you’re all done getting lathered up.

Green Flash Passion Fruit Kicker

Witterkerke Wild

What better way to feel like you’re frolicking underneath of a beautiful island waterfall than drinking this bad boy in the shower. It has a really nice, tropical fruit flavor, with a nice, complex layer of tartness. Bonus points because the can is matte black and therefore provides a better grip for wet hands.

This beer is an excellent shower beer because it’s super-refreshing with hints of lemon and lime, plus the vessel is 16 ounces of pure tart glory! It’s approachable, yet nuanced, and may just make you hit the high note during your shower song solo.

4.4% ABV - Cream Ale

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

4.7% ABV - American IPA

5.5% ABV - American Pale Wheat Ale

4% ABV - Gose

5.3%ABV - German Pilsner

5% ABV - American Wild Ale

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Words Ian Mikrut Photos Mike Weiss

Now in its second year, Hops On Lots Pittsburgh is continuing its Stanton Heights community project, expanding to Larimer and beginning a study farm for its commercial hop parent enterprise, Pittsburgh Hop Company On a cool June evening in Stanton Heights, Pete Bell, Joe Chmielewski and Mike Sturges are hard at work along the giant retaining wall on Stanton Avenue. At first glance, it would look like they were just doing their part to clean up a neighborhood eyesore. And though that’s definitely part of it, the trio are making sure the hop rhizomes planted are in shape to be even more successful than they were a year ago. “My ultimate goal is to have a full urban farm, which would be kind of neat I imagine,” Bell sheepishly says. “Until then, we like walls.” Bell grew up in Hershey, graduated from Pitt in ’97 and never left. After taking a class suggested by his wife through Grow Pittsburgh, Bell became interested in community gardening. The original idea was to have a community beer garden with hops, barley, wheat and other brewing grains. Though it was a little ambitious, he honed it to just hops. And from that the idea became to grow hops in abandoned city lots for local breweries that will not only improve neighborhoods visually, but chip in financially as well. Last year’s yield brought a keg of “Stanton Hops” pale ale to Roundabout Brewery, just a few blocks away from the wall. The Armadillos performed, the keg was kicked in two hours and proceeds were split 50/50 with Stanton Heights Community. “It’s a way that everybody can be involved, not just those who are able to go to the garden [and volunteer], the whole community can go have a beer and chip in,” Bell says. “It was just kind of different and it worked out. I think for us the idea is to work with more community gardens, especially now that we are able to raise more sustainable funds, which is one of the big deals with community gardens.” Over a year ago the corridor in Stanton Heights was approved for a Love Your Block grant. Sturges, a community leader in Stanton Heights (who grows hops and makes hard cider with A Few Bad Apples in his spare time), was sick of how the retaining wall looked. With it falling apart and no plans for a rebuild, he pitched the idea to grow hops along it to help cover it up as part of the existing rain garden proposal. To his surprise, other community leaders in the Stanton Heights Neighborhood Association took to the idea and he was connected with Bell and Chmielewski. “I was super stoked that they came along and made this a reality,” Sturges says. “They took it and made something that’s way better than I would have done.”

With the success of the community garden in Stanton Heights, HOLP planted a second garden in Larimer for 2017. There they’ve planted four plants in five raised beds with the final results set to head to Couch Brewing. It’s hard not to wonder why there aren’t designated hop gardens on many more blocks in every Pittsburgh neighborhood. Not only because of the rise of new breweries in different areas and seemingly endless number of abandoned lots, but the obvious benefits and potential for communities to have the resources they need to further improve. However, it’s not always that simple.

“The city has recognized that we can operate as a team and get projects done and complete things and then other organizations who give grants now recognize this,” he says. “Initially the Stanton Heights Neighborhood Association got a $1,000 Love Your Block grant, and then received a $2,000 Love Your Block grant [in part due to the success of the hop wall], and most recently we received a $10,000 grant from PWSA to continue work on this rain garden project. The city knows we’ll complete the project and we won’t mess with the integrity of the wall while we’re doing it. So it’s just building trust and finishing things and putting a lot of volunteer effort in.”

“Each neighborhood in the community has their own objective, what they want to do, what they want to build and how they want their neighborhood to be,” Bell says. “And sometimes it works well, it worked well with Stanton Heights, it worked well with Larimer, and sometimes it doesn’t. It’s been interesting, and engaging with different communities has be the most fun part of this project, to be honest.”

HOLP has partnered with DECO Resources to install a new drip irrigation system along the wall in Stanton Heights, pulling storm water from the curb and using a filtered solar powered pump. Now with the ability to pull data from soil moisture sensors and the local weather beacon, much of the care of this year’s 50 plants will be done mobile – which beats the Hell out of filling up individual five gallon containers and walking along busy Stanton Avenue every few days.

Sturges explains that a big part of it is building trust between community leaders and city infrastructure, and the role of volunteers in being stewards to see projects through. It’s what has helped Stanton Heights be successful in their many green initiatives and what allowed HOLP to step into the mix so easily.

With the continuing success, innovation and growth of the Stanton Heights project and the potential in Larimer, Bell and Chmielewski were able to expand even farther in the form of a commercial hop company, appropriately named the Pittsburgh Hop Company, in which HOLP will operate under.

They brought on a third partner, Phoebe Armstrong, after she volunteered with HOLP for a few months. Armstrong’s family also owns a few hundred acre farm in West Middletown. They were keen on the idea and gave some land to the trio to devote solely to hops. “We constructed a low trellis system there. Hop systems in the Pacific Northwest, you get big 20 foot systems. In the city you can’t get away with 20 feet because of zoning regulations,” Bell says. “We decided to go with 10 feet. It’s called a study field, we set it up as our model farm for messing around – no rules, no regulations. It’s our field we can play around with.” Most breweries source their hops from large, out of state farms and as far as PA growers go, there aren’t many (Bell and his partners are the first in Washington County). The largest in the state is Keystone Hop Farms in Slippery Rock. And much like brewers supporting fellow brewers, Keystone and its owner Marc Verez have been a big help to the Pittsburgh Hop Company, donating poles and hops for previous HOLP community projects while pointing them in the right direction to set up the farm in West Middletown. Centennial, Nugget and Sorachi Ace were planted at the farm. The results will be a nice litmus test for what’s possible in the city and will make future efforts even easier.

“We’re doing the low trellis so that’s dwarfing the hops to try to keep them down to ten feet. Over the years hopefully the hops will learn, hey we’re gonna’ peak out at ten feet, that’s what we have our max [at the wall in Stanton Heights],” Bell says. “And then with that variety we can actually pull those rhizomes, put them in the city and then they will kind of know, ten feet’s our max limit. Kind of breed them for that – which would be good for urban hops.” With differences in climate and soil consistency than hops grown out west, the farm will also help reveal how different hop varieties behave and grow in PA. The result could potentially bring new, uniquely PA tastes. Making a local beer even more distinctly local. For now Bell and his partners are focused on making sure the 700 plants in West Middletown stay healthy and maybe teach new lessons for the years to come. “That first year, we had no clue what we were gonna’ get, and we ended up doing a keg and had a great time. It was a lot of fun,” says Bell.

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If the difference another year can bring is any indication, the Pittsburgh Hop Company is in for a lot more kegs and hopefully a lot more… lots. And what started as a passion project could turn into a completely new way in which the craft beer wave moves through and literally shapes Pittsburgh.

Pints &

Poses Words Kristy Locklin

Photos Jeff Zoet

In 2013, while visiting Rogue Farms near her home in Salem, Oregon, yoga instructor Mikki Trowbridge looked out over the 42 acres of fragrant hops and thought it would be the perfect place to practice her Downward-Facing Dog. When she finally conducted a yoga class on the property, more than 100 people showed up. “I realized that I was not the only yogi who also enjoyed drinking craft beer,” says Trowbridge, who has been a yoga enthusiast since 2005. Meanwhile, on the other side of the country, Melissa Klimo-Major was hosting yoga and beer pairings at the Cleveland-area studio where she taught. These Balance & Brews sessions became so popular, she decided to hold them in actual breweries, where participants could stretch, destress and then learn more about how beer is made. “It’s a great reminder of the balance of life … breweries have become great gathering places. The possibilities of internal and external connections are endless,” Klimo-Major says. The two women connected on Instagram over their mutual love of yoga and beer and formed not only a friendship, but a business. The Beer Yogis debuted in 2015 by hosting events at several New York City suds makers. Last summer, they hit the road on a cross-country, breweryhopping tour. The trip went so well, they decided to do it again, this time with a stop in Pittsburgh. East End Brewing hosted the team on June 19, the last stop on a 12-city tour. The Julius Street taproom is no stranger to striking a pose; it regularly hosts Beer Belly Yoga classes, 45-minute sessions that include a free, 13-ounce glass filled with one of their brews.

Trowbridge and Klimo-Major say they plan their brewery-based classes to make sure everyone – regardless of their experience level – can participate. The vibe is more laid-back then in a studio setting, which, they feel, makes yoga more accessible to folks who might be wary of the ancient art. Brew Gentlemen in Braddock embraces this all-inclusive philosophy with their hour-long, vinyasa Beer + Yoga classes, which are held on Thursdays and Sundays throughout the summer. “Beer + Yoga is an invitation into something we enjoy, we value and we love having in our space,” says General Manager Alaina Webber. “Everyone is welcome.” Webber became a yoga devotee in college, when she took a restorative class and reached a level of relaxation she didn’t think was possible. It has also increased her self-discipline, strength and flexibility, benefits that help her power through long hours on her feet behind the bar. On a recent Thursday evening a group of children stood outside of the brewery’s large front window and watched Hallie Stotsky teach 20 students how to bend and stretch. The kids pantomimed the moves right there on the sidewalk alongside busy Braddock Avenue. Stotsky said the surprise audience was the perfect addition to Beer + Yoga, which she sees as a playful pastime. She completed her 200-hour training at South Hills Power Yoga in 2013 and, shortly thereafter, became a Brew Gentlemen regular. After reading about brewery/yoga craze happening in places like Seattle, she mentioned the idea to a bartender. A few months later, when the owners of Brew Gentlemen converted an old storage room into an event space, that idea became a reality. Classes are only $5 and include a complimentary 6-ounce beer. All slots sold out almost immediately, so the brewery set up a waiting list and is toying with the idea of offering private group sessions. “I like beer. I like yoga. I like to teach yoga. I get to do all of those things at once” says Stotsky, who shares teaching responsibilities with Rebecca Robertson. “It’s the best thing ever!”

UPCOMING BREWERY YOGA EVENTS BEER + YOGA - Brew Gentlemen 512 Braddock Ave., Braddock, PA 15104

Thursdays @ 7:30pm & Sundays @ 11am through August 3rd

ALES & OMS #3 - Mindful Brewing Company 3759 Library Road, Pittsburgh, PA 15234

Sunday, July 9 @ 10am

BEER BELLY YOGA - East End Brewing Co. 147 Julius St., Pittsburgh, PA 15206

Sunday, July 30 @ 10am

YOGA ON TAP - Allegheny City Brewing 507 Foreland St., Pittsburgh, PA 15212

Sunday, July 23 @ 10:30am

NAMASTE WITH SHU

Zelienople Community Park, Zelienople, PA 16063 (beer by ShuBrew)

Thursday, Aug. 17 @ 6:30pm

collection

Words Kristy Locklin

Photos Buzzy Torek

e m o HBREW Local man’s love of PA breweries evident in massive collection While riding a school bus bound for Kennywood Park, 12-year-old Chip Echnoz spotted treasure on the side of the road. He implored the driver to stop, but the vehicle continued rumbling through West Mifflin. That evening, Chip returned to his Kittanning home and begged his mother to take him back to the spot where he made the discovery. When they got there, his Holy Grail —an empty container of Big Cat Malt Liquor— was gone. Such is the life of an adolescent beer can collector. Chip, who is now in his 50s, eventually did get his hands on a Big Cat; it’s just one piece in a massive breweriana collection. Signs, photographs, picture mirrors, tap handles, ash trays, steins, neon lights, cans, bottles, and other beer-related bric-a-brac occupy every square inch of Chip’s makeshift museum, a converted horse stable located on his rural property. Hundreds of Western Pennsylvania breweries— small and large, defunct and still thriving, preand post-Prohibition —are represented. There are even areas of the building dedicated to beloved suds-makers from Wheeling, West Virginia and Youngstown, Ohio, where an 18-year-old Chip legally drank beer. “I’ve always liked bars, beer and advertising,” he says, gazing around his epic man cave. “People

often tie Pittsburgh to steel, but beer was more prominent than steel.” Pittsburgh’s three rivers and its hillside lagering caves helped local breweries thrive in the days before refrigeration. And without television or radio advertising, breweries simply slapped their name on anything they saw fit, creating a glut of memorabilia that drive modern-day treasure hunters wild. In the 1970s, a beer can collecting craze swept the nation. As kids, Chip and his buddies canvassed their neighborhood looking for empties, even stopping at local watering holes to see what discarded receptacles they could score. He still has his first can – a 16-oz. tall boy of Schmidt’s – which is proudly displayed next to hundreds of other cylindrical trophies. Each night, Chip retreats to the old, log structure, cracks a cold one (Miller Lite is his preferred beverage) and listens to the ticking of a clock – a Seth Thomas Office Calendar 11 model that hung inside Pittsburgh Brewing Company for 130 years. Every month or so he adds to his bounty, often having to erect another interior wall in order to display the new arrivals.

“Every time I get a really nice beer sign, my wife gets a new pair of shoes,” he says with a smile. He relies on eBay, auctions and professional picker friends who keep their eyes peeled for Western PA beer swag when they’re visiting antique shops and flea markets throughout the country. Sometimes he happens upon coveted items out of pure luck. He once found a Pittsburgh Brewing Company sign in Venice, Italy. “I’ve been fortunate to purchase collections from older collectors who want their stuff to stay in one place,” he says. Chip dreams of opening a real museum or, perhaps, a members-only bar, to house his wares. He hopes younger generations will get bit by the breweriana bug, because he sees how it affects old-timers, who grew up with a brewery on every corner. “I’ve had some guys in their 70s visit here and tear up because they look around and remember all of these signs,” he says. “It brought back their childhood.” Further proof that beer doesn’t just erase memories, it creates them, too.

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

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CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

5.2% Gose - destihlbrewery.com

I know I’ve talked about how Gose takes to flavors before, your Margarita Gose, your Mimosa Gose, your Gin & Tonic Gose. But let’s talk a bit about how most American Gose is made. See, first you get your malt and you get it wet, then you add live lactic cultures to it to make it sour. Yes, lactic cultures, the same stuff that turns milk into yogurt and cabbage into sauerkraut. Then you add coriander, the dried seeds of cilantro. And finally you salt the hell out of it. The near death of Gose of a style the past 100 years and it’s damn near god-level revival the past five are worthy of a John Facenda narration. The gist here is sour beer is a thing. Some sour beers take months or even years to fully ripen. The little kettle sour trick with Gose can turn a sour beer around in weeks. And since time equals money, a quick to produce sour beer puts a can in your hands for not a lot of clams. By my count. Destihl brews and cans (!) six different sour

ales by this method. This here basic Gose brings the sour right up front with unsweetened lemonade and red apple skin before the bergamotlike coriander floats on. Salinity from the added sea salt not only punches up all the flavors, but also serves as a nice palate cleanser, wiping away all your tonguely sins of the day. Recommended if you like: East End - Double Gose 7, Hitchhiker - Sea & Seed, Uinta - Ready Set Gose, Off Color - Troublesome, Long Trail - Cranberry Gose

2. FURY Carson St. Kolsch

5.9% Kolsch - furybrewingcompany.com

Some words I say often are that the In-Bev acquisition of Budweiser kicked the craft beer boom of the past few years right in the seat of the pants. So many people who only drank Budweiser because it was epitome of American Beer were suddenly met with a crisis of faith. Continue on the known road or hey, maybe I’ll go check out that place down the road

Words Hart Johnson Photo Tim Burns

that makes their own beer. From there the magical romance of locally made beer takes over and now Joe Six Pack knows more about lupilin powder than he should. Case in point, Fury Brewing. Located just outside Allegheny County on the scenic United States Route 30, in the land of garages bigger than houses. The day I visited there was some sort of lifted Jeep gathering, lots of American flags, real tree camo, the whole shebang. Once inside, city kid felt right at home with reclaimed barn wood and exposed stainless steel walk-in cooler. Good beer is a cultural bridge I tells ya. This Carson St. Kolsch is a nice bridge of a beer as well, similar enough to light American lagers to lure in the new beer drinker yet still just damn tasty and on-point to please the uber beer nerds. Softly fruity malt sweetness tempered with a mild herbal bitterness, just clean and refreshing. Recommended if you like: Fruh - Kolsch, Rivertowne - Babbling Blonde,

3. VOODOO 16oz to Freedom 8.2% Malt Liquor - voodoobrewery.com

Malt Liquor is the scarlet letter of beer. No one here wants to admit they drink the stuff, let alone chug a bunch of it on their 40th birthday and Shamu dive off their stoop. No one wants to admit that. Yet here we are with Voodoo Brewery, of which many reputable media outlets proclaim their Manbearpig Stout to be the bees knees of bees knees, and 16oz. of what am I doing with my life. This stuff is the Wild Turkey 101 of beer. Sure, it’s fun to drink on occasion, and even more fun to watch first timers wrap their head around it, but holy crap this stuff takes you from sobriety to underpants on your head way to quick. It’s fizzy, it’s yellow, it’s strong, it’s sweet, don’t drink unsupervised. Recommended if you like: Drinking beer in 40oz increments

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Reissdorf - Kolsch, Sole - Kolschy Clouds, Brew Gentlemen - Liquid Resume, 45

4. R USTY RAIL Wanderlust 5% Witbier - rustyrailbrewing.com

Rusty Rail, located in the bustling metropolis of Mifflinburg, PA, is another argument that the craft beer isn’t in a bubble. People want a beer to call their own and when the nationally advertised beer isn’t American anymore, well, let’s try that local brewery down the street, keep own town of 3,500 prosperous. Looking at the lineup at Rusty Rail, they’re not breaking any molds here, lots of fan favorite styles. Pale Ale, IPA, Blonde Ale, Witbier, Stout. Couple that with a location in an old train station right along the Buffalo Valley Rail Trail and you’re gonna do just fine. Their Witbier is a nice version, drier and lighter than the most popular Blue Moon, that emphasizes the spicy coriander. Light on the palate and easy drinking. Just what you need on a screaming-hot summer day. Recommended if you like: Avery - White Rascal, Full Pint - White Lightning, Rivertowne - Grateful White, Voodoo - White Magick of the Sun, Reclaimation - Wittenburg, To Øl - Wit is the New Black

5. M ODELO Chelada Tamarindo 3.3% Chelada - cbrands.com

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

I had to literally beg Rob to let me review this beer. “I’m not sure I want to cover Modelo in the magazine dude.” You alright with covering Ballast Point? “Absolutely!” Cool, they’re owned by the same people, so by the transitive property of equality I can talk about Modelo! “Dude …” And that’s how you negotiate. I’ve had a sick fascination with michelada in

all forms for years, I have a long-running joke (or is it?) that if you see those Budweiser Clamato beers on a shelf and you don’t buy me one, our friendship is terminated. Sure, tomato juice and beer is a polarizing opinion, I’ll give you that. But I’ll swear there’s nothing more refreshing on a soggy summer afternoon. I really dig this tamarind and chipotle variant, the base Chelada from Modelo veers a little too far into sweet tomato juice flavors in my opinion and the extra spiciness and tart zing of the Tamarindo Picante hits me just right. I’m not saying you should pour this into a chili lime spice and salt rimmed glass and enjoy life, but I’m saying it’s a great idea. Recommended if you like: Bloody Marys, 24oz cans, fun.

6. J OLLY PUMPKIN Calabaza Blanca 4.8% Witbier - jollypumpkin.com

I’m assuming about 10 percent of readers just scrolled past this, rolling their eyes and sighing about pumpkin beer in fucking June. Cool. See ya, nerds. Those of you still reading, hey, this stuff is a masterpiece. No, it’s not a pumpkin beer. Yes, the brewery theme could best be described as Nightmare Before Christmas in Honolulu and, yeah, all our beers are sourish. So, now that we’ve cleared that up, welcome to one of the weirdest witbiers you’ll ever have. Aged in oak for two months where it picks up the house flavor of Jolly Pumpkin. Bright pineapple and lemon pepper flavors from their yeast blend along with juicy orange peel atop a velvety wheat accented maltiness. While decidedly sour, it’s not overbearingly sour, just enough to be refreshing. I’d call the Calabaza Blanca a good introduction

Recommended if you like: Stillwater - Cellar Door, Bell’s - Oarsman, Timmerman’s - Oude Gueuze, Draai Laag - R2 Koelschip, Ithaca - Brute

7. STIEGL Radler Zitrone 2.5% Lemon Radler - stiegl.at

Europeans taking drinking seriously. Like education and responsibility seriously, not you can’t touch any of this boozy stuff until you’re safely surrounded by thousands of your peers at a location probably far from home, good luck and try not pass out on our back when you pass out you silly kids. So yeah, Austria, #3 beer drinking country per capita. They know how to do it. And sometimes you need to pump the brakes a little bit, maybe just pace yourself when you’re out all day watching Two Time Stanley Cup Champion Phil Kessel in a victory parade on a 95-degree June Wednesday. I’ll make no apologies here, a 50/50 mix of lager and whatever flavor San Pellegrino has been a muggy night staple for years. This is that in one convenient package. Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk about mixing it with gin and fresh basil. Or the sole reason I have a bottle of Campari at my house, the Negroni Radler. Maybe some decent Mezcal, a hit of fresh lime and some simple syrup for a Radler Paloma? Refreshing as hell by itself on a hot day and seriously fun as a summer cookout cocktail concept. Recommended if you like: Boulevard - Ginger Lemon Radler, Victory - Cage Radler, Great Divide - Roadie Radler, Roundabout - Margarita Gose

8. CBC Remain In Light

5% Hoppy Pilsner - cambridgebrewingcompany.com

My sole knowledge of Cambridge Brewing Company involves a quite boozy brunch at their Cambridge, MA brewpub before a 12-hour layover at scenic Newark International Airport. So, let’s say my memory of it is overshadowed by temporary purgatory. I literally know nothing about them, an actual virgin to their boozy temptations. My intel says they’ve been brewing this beer since 2011, so ahead of the “lager curve” which is what I’m calling every larger brewery releasing a lager this year. About as light as I’d ever want a beer to be, extra pale gold with a hint of ripe yellow. While they call this beer hoppy, you have to take off the IIPA blinders and look for the understated German and Czech hops used here. No nose full of grapefruit juice and Otto’s jacket, more walking through a patch of wild flowers on the last day of a drought, floral and herbal but with that undertone of drying grass holding before it browns. Flavorwise, a bit more well-rounded with some light honey sweetness and sweeping bitterness on the finish. But honestly, just pour it into a glass and revel in that aroma. And yeah, drink it, too. Recommended if you like: Victory - Prima Pils, Penn - Kaiser Pils, Founders - PC Pils, Bitburger - Pils, Four Seasons - Latrobe Lager

Follow Hart on Twitter @MoarHops

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to Jolly Pumpkin, a milder sourness than the rest of their lineup, and a nice crossover from sweeter wheat beers into the world of sour.

brewer sit-down Photo Buzzy Torek

DAVIDHARRIES Southern Tier Brewing Co. - Pittsburgh, PA Age? 28

Where are you from? Northern Virginia, near D.C.

Brewing background?

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

I went to college at Virginia Tech for chemistry. It’s kind of a privilege to be alive and of drinking age when craft beer was really coming into full steam. I thought how neat it would be to try and make beer for a living for a little bit rather than going off to grad school or working in a lab somewhere.

So I applied to every lab opening that I could find and out of several interviews, I landed with Southern Tier in Lakewood, NY., I started working in the lab there and that’s a great place to start, I think, because it’s kind of like your business is knowing everybody’s business a little. What’s going on in brewing, what’s going on in the cellar, what’s going on in packaging and being there at a time where there was a lot of growth—people were very generous with their time and knowledge and would teach you.

Part of your job is to culture yeast and grow it up, part is doing microbial work and all these sort of things that help the consistency of the brand, but you also get to know what the process is like. It gave me the opportunity to move, crawl out of the ivory tower and go into the brewing side. So I worked in the brew house for a while, then the cellar and I was running the cellar when I moved to Pittsburgh in 2013. Just over two years at Southern Tier, I must have left on good terms because I was invited back. I took a break from beer and worked at Wigle Whiskey in the Strip, which is a bit of a cool extension and a great place to learn a lot of new things and meet a lot of cool people.

First craft beer?

The first craft beer that really opened my eyes would have probably been Stone IPA. I remember drinking this shortly after I turned 21. I was on a trip with my family in Escondido and went to Stone’s plant for a tour. I remember thinking how could something be so bitter, and how good it was and really just how bitter it was.

Guilty pleasure beer?

I drink all kinds of beer, but the macro closest to my heart would

probably be Busch pounders, preferably in the camo can, something that goes really well with wings that you can drink that’s not terrible if it’s a little warm.

What kind of music do you brew to?

Since I’m brewing on full display, the musical priority is on the guest experience, but we actually get a lot of compliments on the music. I think our GM Mike [Puschaver] did an awesome job putting together the soundtrack. So usually that’s what’s on, I don’t like listening to music very loud, I don’t wear head phones. I like to be able to hear the pumps and hear when things are cavitating or how things are running.

If you weren’t brewing?

If you could go to any bar, from any time in your life and have a beer, where would you go?

The Rivermill in Blacksburg, Va., have a few pints with friends, share loaded tater tots and play a couple games of atrocious pool. They ran $2 pint specials periodically, and I remember one year where it included Bell’s Hopslam.

Where would you have your last drink?

Maybe Bell’s Two Hearted Ale. My dad is also into craft beer and was a home brewer and it’s one of the beers he’d regularly have around and we drank a lot of that together. So it might be a Two Hearted Ale and I’d be sitting in the garage working on a bicycle with my dad.

I don’t know … if I wasn’t brewing beer. I’ve become more interested in the engineering and the process, it was really neat to have had the opportunity to have been here and build this place. If it wasn’t in brewing, maybe, seeing the guys from Krones who installed [the brewing equipment], I know that’s probably a hard life but to travel and put these things together, it could be fun.

What do you drive?

I rode my bicycle here today. I live in Troy Hill, so it’s about a 2-mile commute. Very fast on the way in, but I have to work for it on the way back, luckily I don’t work in a place where I have to wear a suit and tie, so I can get a little greasy and sweaty. I was car-free for a long time. I got this job and bought a 2011 [Subaru] WRX hatchback, which is really fun and probably dumb, because I haven’t driven it to work in a while.

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cooking with beer Words Mindy Heisler-Johnson

Blake’s Hard Cider Brined

BBQ PORK Let’s be real for a minute... no one likes to cook in the summer.

It’s hot. Kitchens are hot. The very time of year that we LOVE to get together and feast is the very same time of year that the idea of firing up the oven to make said feast makes your AC weep and the electric company start throwing parties in your honor. I believe this is why BBQ was created. Well, that, and so we had an excuse to drink outside. And eat potato salad and strawberry pretzel Jell-O.

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

What I order at every BBQ joint: pulled pork. When done right it’s pork perfection -- tender, succulent, the sweet/spicy bark, melt in your mouth meat -- it gets no better. I like it with a touch of vinegary sauce, if anything at all, good pulled pork is best nekkid! It is also one of the very best things to cut your teeth on as far as smoking is concerned; it’s forgiving on the cook and seasoning.

Now we could talk BBQ philosophy and process all day, but for the purposes of the page I have to work with we are going to cover the basics of how I do what I do in my very uncomplicated and simple home setup. Now you can complicate all of this a 1,000 different ways, but I prescribe to a more ‘Keep It Simple, Stupid’ philosophy when it comes to most of what I cook and BBQ is no different. For a novice this simple setup will serve you well for trying out long time smoking, if you have your own rig and know what you’re doing please skip ahead to the nuts and bolts a little further down. Let’s get smokin’!

The Meat

Pork butt. Bone-in. Whole. All day. This is, hands down, the perfect cut for pulled pork, however you make it. It was MADE for this. Literally. I also only use bone-in and whole. Smoking is a dry heat, more exposed outside

means less perfectly juicy inside. Always whole. I learned early on in some cases if you don’t have the right time to do something, dont. This is one of those times. It also doesn’t save that much time. Trust my eff-ups!

The Brine

There are many schools of thought on brining. Fact is the only time brining is effective is when it can be done for a LONG time, how long depending on your desired result and thing being brined. Chicken? A day. Corned Beef? 10 to 12 days. Giant whole pork butt? three to five days. I smoked this one on day four and it was perfection. I also do not recommend going nuts in a brine—it is mostly pointless. Brining and marinating are not the same. When marinating the intent is to ADD flavor. When brining the intent is to ENHANCE flavor, it isn’t a medium that likes heavy acids or seasonings, it’s mostly about the sugar, salt and liquid and their penetrating the protein adding moisture and subtle flavor. For our pork I used Blake’s Hard Cider. Crisp, tart, ripe apple, dry—not overtly sweet, no hops, no spice; just a really tasty, straightforward hard cider. The brine needs 12 cans, I got a case so I had some to sample, too. Brining with booze can help break down tougher cuts of meat, though its purpose here is more about flavor than tenderizing. Mixed with some pure maple syrup it was perfection, permeating the meat with a subtle sweetness that popped up against the slightly spicy dry rub we are going to talk about next. • 12 - 12 oz. cans Blake’s Hard Cider • 1 cup Pure Maple Syrup • 1 cup Kosher Salt • 2 Bay Leaves • 1 Tbsp Yellow Mustard Seeds • 15-20 Black Pepper Corns

Get it all in a container that will fit the butt and fit in your fridge. Mix it up until the salt dissolves. Send the pork in for a swim. Cover. Refrigerate. Leave it be for three to five days.

The Rub

This is the secret weapon of every Pit Master: the dry rub. It should be a balance of sweet, salt, spice and flavor. In keeping with my Keep It Simple thing I don’t go nuts and add a zillion ingredients to my rub, in my experience less is more, as long as your salt game is on point. • 1 cup Brown Sugar • ½ cup Kosher Salt • Copious amounts of fresh ground black pepper • 1 Tbsp Ancho Chili Powder • 2-3 tsp Cayenne Pepper - at least • 2 Tbsp Mustard Pepper Get it all in a bowl and mix it up. While your coals are heating get the pork out if it’s bath and dry it off with paper towels. Coat it in the dry rub, all over. Wear gloves or watch out for little specks of cayenne under the fingernails! Let it sit for a minute or three and let the rub get wet. Coat it again, all over. Let it sit until your coals are ready, set up the smoker and then do it again right before you put it on to start cooking.

The Smoker & Smoking

At my house it’s a plain, old, ordinary Weber grill fitted with an oven thermometer, a charcoal chimney, hardwood charcoal, hardwood chips and chunks. The thermometer is important. You have to be able to read the temp in the grill without opening the dome. We replaced the awful one it came with with a more accurate oven probe thermometer. You’ll also note I specifically said HARDWOOD charcoal. This is also key. We ain’t grilling burgers and dogs, get the good stuff. Always get the good stuff. You’re worth it.

For wood chips I stick with apple, cherry and pecan. I steer away from mesquite, I do not like the acrid flavor it imparts to anything cooked over it, I stick to the sweeter woods. And get chunks, too. They help maintain the temp in the grill better. Always soak your chips and chunks. We usually soak in beer or whisky. I can’t tell you if it has any deep effects but it sure does make the smoke smell awesome. If you don’t want to use booze to soak your chips use water, but always soak your chips. Wet wood smokes. Dry wood burns. You want smoke. Wrap the bottom grate double thick with heavy-duty aluminum foil, poke a bunch of holes in it for some air flow, and put back in the bottom of the grill. Put a drip pan with a half inch of water in it on one side, mine is an old half pan but a disposable one will do, leave the other side open for coals and wood chips. When you’re ready to fire use the chimney to start coals. When white hot spread out on the empty side of the grate, top with the soaked wood chips and chunks, place the grilling grate back on the grill and put your meat over the drip tray. Lid it. Walk away for at least an hour to let the temp stabilize and the initial heat chill out. Use the vents at top and bottom as needed to add air (raise the temp) and remove air (drop the temp) to get it in the sweet zone—250°-275° degrees, with pork butt anything under 300° is good. Check back every couple hours. Add more coals and wood chips as needed to maintain desired temp. You want to remove the lid as little as possible. You’re smoking. The smoke needs to stay in. You will probably have to add more coals and wood chips three or four times during the smoke. If you keep the coal bed hot you won’t need to use the chimney again. If the coals die, you will. As I said earlier, the pork is forgiving, so if that happens it just means you’ll need to leave it on longer, no harm, no foul. The pork is done when you can easily, EASILY pull it. It’s not a temperature. It’s not a time. It’s when you use your fingers to try to pull a piece off and it easily, without any resistance, pulls off. Take it off the smoker and let it rest for a half hour before you pull it down by hand. Then eat it. In whatever way makes your face happy.

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home brewing Words Jack Smith

Golden Ale Britain’s New Boy Takes on the Establishment

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

British ales have centuries of history and culture behind every pint pulled from every beer engine across the isles.

Porter dates back to the 1700s and is an evolution of a style that stretches back hundreds of years earlier. Bitter, IPA, and other pale and brown ales came to prominence in the 19th century. Mild, in its current guise, is an inter-war development nearly 100 years old. None of this, however, is to say the Brits haven’t been busy pushing beers styles forward in recent times. Take British Golden Ale, for instance. This style, newly added in the 2015 BJCP style guidelines, only dates back a few decades. Its exact origins are fuzzy, but it came into its own in the 1980s as breweries sought to offer a local alternative to mass-marketed fizzy yellow lager coming from the continent and the United States. To that end British Golden Ale is straw colored, has a dry finish, and is very quenching. But unlike the commodified beer it was combatting, it’s really quite flavorful. Delicious base malts such as Maris Otter, Golden Promise, Halcyon, or Optic are showcased alongside elevated levels of hops providing nearly American-like levels of flavor and aroma. Originally the hops used were all English varieties such as Goldings or Fuggles, but more recently as hop-forward American pale ales and IPAs gain fans around the globe, British brewers have taken to showcasing citrusy American hops in this beer style. My recipe below blends the two worlds to create a bright, flavorful brew that highlights both the floral, herbal notes of

English East Kent Golding hops and the orange, grapefruit, and resin qualities of Cascade. British Golden Ale as a style offers you a good bit of leeway with your choice ingredients. The water profile should be fairly neutral, leaning slightly to the sulfate side on the old chloride-to-sulfate ratio scale to accentuate dryness, crispness. For malt, use any base malt you like. British base malts are traditional. You won’t be using any crystal, caramel, or other specialty malts, so choose a base malt whose flavor profile you really like, one that can stand up on its own. I love Scottish Golden Promise, so I use it as the bulk of the malt for this beer. For just a bit of complexity, I cut it with some English Maris Otter. The use of adjuncts such as sugar would not be unheard of here to help produce a lighter-bodied, dryer beer though I prefer an all-malt version wherein I use a combination of low mash temperature and highly attenuative yeast to drive dryness. As for hops, your options are pretty much endless. This style is a platform to showcase hops -- without being palate-wrecking, that is. Any varieties that would work well in an ESB or English IPA, or even in an American Pale Ale or IPA would do well in this beer. Finally, for yeast, you’re looking for two things: high attenuation and a clean-butnot-too-clean ester profile. Many British strains are too fruity, but there are some that produce fewer esters and are perfect to use here. Some American strains are a bit more flavorful than the old standby, Chico, and might be worth trying out. Scottish and Irish ale strains are also in play. Avoid anything Belgian or the German weizen

yeasts. Kolsch or Altbier strains or even California Lager (Steam Beer) yeast might be worth playing around with for this style. Another great thing about this style -- it has a quick turnaround time. If you’re reading this in July, you can have a batch of British Golden Ale ready to serve in August while the days are still long and hot and your beer compass is pointing towards all things refreshing. Cheers, mate!

Rusholme Ruffian British Golden Ale Batch Size: 5.25 gal Boil Time: 60 minutes OG: 1.046 FG: 1.010 ABV: 4.75% IBU: 35 SRM: 4 Difficulty: Simple

*Assuming 65% brewhouse efficiency

Grainbill • 7 lbs, 8 oz Golden Promise malt • 3 lb, 4 oz Maris Otter malt

* Extract Brewers: Replace the Golden Promise and Maris Otter malt with 5 lbs of English extra light DME such as Muntons brand and 1lb of table sugar.

Hops

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• 28 grams East Kent Golding (5% AA) and 21 grams Cascade (5.5% AA) @ 60 min. • 7 grams East Keng Golding (5% AA) and 7 grams Cascade (5.5% AA) @ 10 min. • 7 grams East Keng Golding (5% AA) and 7 grams Cascade (5.5% AA) @ 0 minutes. Allow to steep for 15 minutes before chilling. • 14 grams East Kent Golding (5% AA) and 14 grams Cascade (5.5% AA) dry hop for five days. Add dry hops when primary fermentation is nearly complete.

Mash & Boil Use a standard single-infusion mash at 150°F for one hour. Sparge and lauter as you typically do. Collect your typical pre-boil volume then boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times listed above.

Yeast/Fermentation This is a British beer, but the style calls for a more restrained ester profile than you would expect from most British beers such as English bitters, Scottish ales, porters, or stouts. It should not, however, be as clean as a lager or even an American ale, so don’t use Chico yeast (WLP001, Wyeat 1056, SafAle US05). You also want this beer to be crisp and dry, so a highly attenuative yeast should be chosen. To those ends, I like WLP007 Dry English Ale or Wyeast 1098 British Ale yeast. Ferment cool, around 65°F, to keep ester production in check. Allow temperature to rise gradually to 70°F after 60% of the expected attenuation has been reached. Irish Ale yeast produces a notable dry, clean beer. It might make for an interesting choice for this beer as well. Think of your British Golden Ale as a British twist on the old American brewpub standby, Blonde Ale. As such, it situate itself nicely alongside pub grub wonderfully. Bonus points if said eats are, themselves, British in nature. Scotch eggs and chips with vindaloo. Doner kebab or gyros. Then again, this is Pittsburgh so get yinzselves a hoagie and a bag of Snyder’s or one of them sammiches with fries & slaw on it and have at it!

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Suggested Pairings

Voodoo Brewing Company

LOVE

CHILD Words & Illustration Mark Brewer

CraftPittsburgh | issue 32

Voodoo Brewing has one of my favorites beers that is available on tap and in bottles all year round.

The brew is called, Love Child (9.5% ABV). This beer is a Belgian Style Tripel and a good one at that! It pours a dark yellow orange color and has a light head which will quickly dissipate into a single white rim around the beer that will remain until the last drop. Esters of a traditional Belgian yeast will entertain your senses with an abundant amount of spice and orange peel coming through. The first sip will unveil a light to medium bodied beer that gives you a full mouth feel due to the carbonation. There is plenty of spiciness throughout the entire tasting experience with a slight sourness left on the back end. With the tastes of orange peel, coriander and tart cherries to name a few, Love Childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderful bouquet of fruits and yeasty esters continue to come through the more you indulge. Voodoo Brewing Company is an employee owned brewery. I was fortunate to sign copies of my book here on a couple of occasions. They have a brewpub located in Homestead, PA while the original brewery is in Meadville. The brewpub in Homestead was created out of a retired jail and firehouse. They even kept a couple of the original jail cells in working condition so youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have to be on your best behavior. If you like pinball or video games with your beer then add that as another reason to visit Voodoo! Mark Brewer is the author & illustrator of Brewology, An Illustrated Dictionary for Beer Lovers