Crain's New York Business

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APRIL 18, 2022

SPECIAL REPORT

HOSPITALITY

You can’t stay here

Better pay, benefits and culture on the menu at restaurants

Finding housing for street homeless is a bureaucratic nightmare

To address the labor shortage, eateries improve terms of work

BY CAROLINE SPIVACK AND BRIAN PASCUS

O

hen chef Dennis Ngo was coming up through the ranks of New York City restaurants, the answer to a boss’s demands, no matter how inconvenient, was always, “Yes, chef.” Now, though Ngo helms Di An Di, a Vietnamese restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, he is still catering to the people in power, only this time they are his employees. He sometimes wonders what happened. His employees tell him, “The culture shifted, bro.” As the long-term shifts from the Covid-19 pandemic meet a pre-existing hiring crisis, things are shaking out in workers’ favor. To find and retain the talent they need to stay in business, employers have been increasing wages. If that’s not sufficient, they’re building charismatic internal cultures, offering never-before-considered benefits such as four-day workweeks, and designing structured paths for career growth. There are still 70,000 fewer people employed in the food services and drinking places category in New York City, according to the state Department of Labor’s February employment numbers, compared with the average industry employment for the full year of 2019. Yet the number of restaurants fell by only about 1,000 by the third quarter of last year, according to a

n a frigid Wednesday morning in March, Marg Curran scanned the streets of East Harlem through the windows of a Toyota Rav4. Curran and Alexandra Long, in the passenger seat, kept an eye out for tents, electric-blue tarps draped over discarded furniture, shopping carts loaded with clothes—things that might indicate a homeless person was staying nearby. “The people here haven’t been interested in talking to us, but let’s see how they’re doing,” Long said, as Curran parked the car on East 116th Street under the elevated Metro-North tracks. Down the block, two men lingered near a makeshift storage Years of policy unit made of a pushcart and an ofmissteps contribute as city’s unsheltered fice chair, next to a LinkNYC kiosk. One man balked when the outpopulation booms reach workers approached, declining to speak with them. But the second man said his name was Danny. He was middle-aged, with dark circles beneath his eyes, wearing a navy-blue puffer jacket, fuzzy white socks and Crocs. When asked how long he’d been living on the streets, his response was barely audible. “A year,” he said. After some gentle prodding, he said he was open to sheltering on Broadway in a nearby church, where he could shower and get a hot meal. For the city’s homeless outreach workers, the process of gradually earning the trust of someone living on the street can take months or years—encouraging them to move indoors and ultimately embark on the slow, bureaucracy-laden process of accessing permanent housing. There are no quick solutions, only the persistence of outreach teams that scour sidewalks, parks

See RESTAURANTS on page 22

See HOMELESS on page 16

BY CARA EISENPRESS

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NEWSPAPER

VOL. 38, NO. 15

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© 2022 CRAIN COMMUNICATIONS INC.

HOMELESS

GOTHAM GIG

POLITICS

Monitored drug-use site director greets hate with love

What made it into the state budget

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BUCK ENNIS

CRISIS

4/15/22 5:27 PM


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