Summer 2011 | www.portugal-life.net | €3.75
Exclusive Interview
Turismo de Portugal’s Frederico Costa on why the country is still a dynamic and enchanting destination
Western Algarve
Head west and enjoy sun, sea and seclusion in a fabulous five-star holiday resort
TRÓIA
One of Portugal’s lesser-known destinations is attracting tourists with its fashionable accommodation and stunning coastline
View our digital magazine online at - www.portugal-life.net
PORTO
Experience a connoisseur’s dream, a luxurious wine hotel set amongst the city’s port lodges, overlooking the River Douro
INTRODUCTION | PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL www.portugal-life.net
Editor Mark Harding +351 933 343 369 E-mail: mark@portugal-life.net Associate Editor Paul Bernhardt +351 919 901 842 E-mail: paul@portugal-life.net Property Editor Mary Wilson +44 (0)1983 525 300 E-mail: mary@portugal-life.net Design & Production Phil Harding - Creation Media +351 916 606 226 E-mail: phil@creation-media.net or phil@portugal-life.net Nick Heath +44 (0)7973 141382 Financial Consultant Simon Perks Perks Property Finance Solutions Limited +44 (0)1738 905 67 or +44 (0)7780 501 548 E-mail: simon@perks-pfs.com Golf Consultant Stuart Masson +44 (0)7967 564 033 E-mail: stuart@theportugalgolfclub.com Publishers The Portuguese Golf Club Limited The Old Chapel Norton sub Hamdon Somerset TA14 6SG +44 (0)1935 881 762 www.theportugalgolfclub.com Lisbon office: Amoreiras Torre 3 5 Piso 511 1070-271 Lisbon Portugal Portugal Media Consultants Algarve: Vivienne Chinque +351 910 462 835 E-mail: vivienne@portugal-life.net Lisbon: Jonathan Elms +351 916 772 299 (PORTUGAL) or +44 (0)7860 414 987 (UK) E-mail: jonathan@portugal-life.net Lisbon: Lucilia Guerreiro +351 917 813 574 E-mail: lucilia@portugal-life.net Distribution Foremost Golf in association with Retail Tribe www.foremostgolf.com The Portuguese Chamber of Commerce www.portuguese-chamber.org.uk Portugal Life & Travel is published quarterly and distributed to all Foremost golf club members throughout the UK. It is also published on-line at www.portugal-life.net Disclaimer: The publisher cannot accept responsibility for omissions or printing errors. All prices, conditions and facts are correct at the time of going to press. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any material used in Portugal Life & Travel magazine in any format or medium. Reproduction of any part of this magazine is strictly forbidden. Copyright: The Portuguese Golf Club Limited 2011 ISSN 1758 - 1494
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Front cover image: Lagos, western Algarve. Photo: www.paulbernhardtphoto.com
Publisher Peter Callaghan +44 (0)1935 881 762 E-mail: peter@portugal-life.net
elcome to the third issue of Portugal Life & Travel.
As you will notice, we have now added the word Travel to our title and are confident you will enjoy reading the new style of the magazine. Over the past months many changes have taken place behind the scenes. The magazine is now being designed and ‘built’ in Portugal. Mark Harding has taken over as editor with Paul Bernhardt as associate editor. Both Mark and Paul live and work in Lisbon and have considerable knowledge of Portugal. Paul has taken the majority of photographs in this issue; his eye for the country is very apparent. The re-design of the magazine is entirely due to Phil Harding (no relation to Mark), who has worked tirelessly on the new layouts. I am very grateful for all his enthusiasm and support over the past months. His vision has been most inspirational, and as publisher it has been a total pleasure to work along side Phil. Mary Wilson has continued to edit our property pages; her extensive knowledge of the Portuguese property market is extremely valuable. I am delighted that Simon Perks has agreed to join the magazine as our regular financial correspondent. My thanks also go to Kathryn McWhirter for kindly agreeing to write the Portugal on Your Palate section, which greatly illustrates her considerable knowledge of Portugal. If you do not already own a copy of The Wine and Food Lover’s Guide to Portugal, I strongly advise you to take advantage of our readers’ book offer on page 69. Written in association with her husband Charles Metcalfe, their book should accompany your visit to Portugal. I thoroughly enjoyed reading Maureen Gilmour’s article, Duet on the Douro. The fascinating review of The Yeatman has inspired me to visit Porto as soon as time allows. As publisher, I do thank them all for making this publication possible. Portugal Life & Travel aims to play an important role in the promotion of the country. As the only magazine in the United Kingdom dedicated to Portugal, we are proud to be actively highlighting tourism. We hope you will be inspired by this issue and enjoy reading the many articles about this beautiful country.
Peter Callaghan Publisher
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PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL | CONTENTS
Contents... 5
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW | FREDERICO COSTA
Portugal has come on in leaps and bounds in recent years and according to the country’s tourism chief, there’s no better time to visit than now.
9 REGION | WESTERN ALGARVE A holiday in the Algarve doesn’t have to mean crowded beaches and long queues. Head for Sagres and discover stylish seclusion.
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15 SIGHTSEEING | PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES Lisbon’s Parque das Nações splices modern architecture with a seafaring tradition.
23 DIPLOMATIC PROFILE | NEW AMBASSADOR A profile of His Excellency, João de Vallera, the new Ambassador of Portugal in the United Kingdom.
27 WINING & DINING | PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE A regular section featuring some of Portugal’s finest gastronomic hotspots.
35 DESTINATION | TRÓIA
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The fashionable Tróia Resort on the Sado Estuary combines striking contemporary design with a beautiful and pristine environment.
43 MADEIRA | CHARMING HOTELS Elegance and personal service mean a stay at any of these hotels is a pleasure.
45 PROPERTY | MADEIRA Whether you want a holiday home or investment, there is a selection of superb new homes to buy in and around Funchal.
49 EVENT | PROPERTY CONFERENCE 2011 The Annual Portuguese Chamber of Commerce Conference is always packed with fascinating information.
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51 REAL ESTATE | PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT Whatever your pocket, there is a wide selection of property to buy in Portugal from apartments to townhouses and villas at superb developments on the Algarve, the western coast or inland.
55 REAL ESTATE | Buying property in Portugal Conveyance and property finance advice from Portugal Life & Travel’s resident Financial Consultant - Simon Perks.
60 ECO-TOURISM | INSPIRA A stylish new Lisbon hotel is leading the way in environmental sustainability.
63 SPECIAL OCCASION | MONTE DO CASAL Couples can tie the knot in style at Monte do Casal Country House
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CONTENTS | PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL
65 CITY STYLE | THE YEATMAN Visit Porto and discover good food, fine wine and a fashionable place to stay.
73 RETIREMENT | Monte da Palhagueira Winner of the Homes Overseas “Best Overseas Retirement Development” and “Readers’ Choice” Awards.
76 GOLF | THE PORTUGAL GOLF CLUB An introduction to the Portugal Golf Club, the largest of its kind in Europe.
77 GOLF | PORTUGAL’S GOLF PORTFOLIO As one of Europe’s favourite golf destinations, Portugal boasts some of the best and most challenging golf courses.
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79 GOLF | FEATURED GOLF COURSE - LARANJAL The latest jewel in the Algarve crown!
81 COMPANY PROFILE | MAISTURISMO Portuguese travel publishing company Maisturismo marks its 25th anniversary this year with a series of new developments.
83 LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM A round-up of all the most recent developments in Portugal’s travel and tourism sector.
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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW | FREDERICO COSTA
Work in Progress Portugal has come on in leaps and bounds in recent years and according to the country’s tourism chief, there’s no better time to visit than now. Mark Harding reports
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Photos: Paul Bernhardt
FREDERICO COSTA | EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW
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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW | FREDERICO COSTA
The idea of the word simplicity is very much in line with what Portugal has to offer
Photo: José Manuel
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teering a tourism destination through one of the worst economic depressions in living memory would seem a thankless task, but Frederico Costa, executive director of Turismo de Portugal, otherwise known as the Portuguese Tourist Board, was a picture of placidity when Portugal Life & Travel magazine caught up with him in his Lisbon office recently. And there’s method to his relaxed demeanour because, as anyone travelling around the country today will tell you, Portugal is as dynamic and enchanting as it has ever been; the long, sandy beaches are still there, the golf courses look better than ever, Portuguese chefs are gaining more and more recognition for their creativity and the country’s accommodation portfolio remains on a par with Europe’s best. In short, therefore, Costa and his team still have a magnificent destination to sell and, with the main generating markets such as Germany, France, Scandinavia and the UK starting to sprout the all-important green shoots of recovery, there’s plenty of reason for him to feel calm and composed.
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“Portugal is a fantastic place to visit. Within a relatively short drive visitors can experience many different things, from the great plains of the Alentejo and the many beach resorts and golf courses of the Algarve to the cosmopolitan capital of Lisbon and the enchanting Douro Valley. It’s a compact country with a very broad appeal,” he says. Costa has been promoting and selling his country for over two decades, and having spent much of that time overseas, he knows a thing or two about Portugal’s attributes as a tourism destination and, just as importantly, how the country is perceived abroad. “Portugal has everything for the 21st-century traveller and people are made to feel truly welcome here. It is widely recognized as a good holiday destination.”
Plenty of progress One aspect he is particularly keen to stress is the progress Portugal has made in improving and modernising its basic tourism infrastructure over the past ten to fifteen years. Large-scale events such as Expo ’98 and the Euro 2004 football championships applied stimulus to the country’s rapid development,
but a lot has been achieved on a local level in towns and villages right across the country. A case in point is Quarteira in the Algarve, whose quality as a beach destination has often been compared, to its detriment, with Vilamoura next door. However, these two neighbouring towns might have been described as chalk and cheese in the past, but this is no longer the case according to Frederico Costa. “Ten years ago, it could have been said that Quarteira lacked a certain appeal, but nowadays it’s a much better product and compares favourably with its counterparts in southern Spain. The promenade has been rebuilt and there are plenty of good restaurants around. It’s not a place for the luxury traveller, but it’s an excellent three-star, mid-budget destination and is a very good example of the improvements Portugal has made since the 1980s.” It’s a similar story in other parts of Portugal, with much of the country’s infrastructure having been renewed or upgraded in recent years. Portugal’s product portfolio has likewise been improved and expanded with
FREDERICO COSTA | EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW systematic development seen in the golf and corporate travel sectors and healthy growth in the residential tourism market. “Golf has grown considerably in the past ten years and there’s been a big increase in the number of people buying a holiday home in Portugal. It has been a huge effort by both the private and public sectors to upgrade the destination. There are new hotels and resorts all over the country, many of which have been supported by Turismo de Portugal,” says Costa.
More to do Entertainment is another visible part of the country’s progress as a tourist destination. Turismo de Portugal invests a lot of time, money and energy enticing people to travel to Portugal, but it’s equally important to keep them busy whilst they are there. “Twenty-five years ago, people came to Portugal mostly for the sun and beach, but these days they expect much more in the way of entertainment,” he says. The Algarve responded to the needs of the modern traveller by introducing the annual Allgarve programme, a series of large-scale concerts, exhibitions and other events designed for tourists and residents alike. According to Costa, the idea isn’t to bring lots more people into the Algarve, but to complement the region’s existing attributes. “It’s all part of reinventing the destination and developing the Portugal brand. We invest €15 million each year in projects of this sort, including similar initiatives that we have recently introduced in the Oeste tourist region north of Lisbon and Porto Santo Island in the Atlantic, because they are new destinations and need a push.”
Better days ahead Transportation has always been a key issue in the development of a destination and Portugal is certainly no exception. Except for cruise passengers and visitors from neighbouring Spain, the country has always been reliant on airlines bringing people in, and this looks set to continue.
A silver lining to this is the fact that since the advent of low-cost flights there’s been much more seat capacity than ever before and the future looks brighter still. EasyJet is set to open a brand-new hub in the capital, Lisbon, later this year and other operators such as Ryanair have been steadily increasing frequencies and opening up new routes. “More than 90 per cent of our tourists arrive through the airports, so we have a policy to support the airlines bringing in this business,” Costa declares. Low-cost has contributed greatly to Portugal’s re-emergence as a first-choice holiday destination in recent years, helping to bring alive some parts of the country that previously failed to fulfill their tourism potential.
up than others, we’re optimistic that 2011 is going to be a positive year,” Costa announces. And in this increasingly complex world, it’s good to know that some things remain simple and uncomplicated, which is the message behind Turismo de Portugal’s latest advertising campaign running under the slogan, The Beauty of Simplicity. “The idea of the word simplicity is very much in line with what Portugal has to offer. The destination is easy to manage; it’s compact, well structured and quick to move around from region to region, everyone speaks English and, above all, it’s a safe place to visit. Add all this to our rich cultural heritage, good weather, great beaches and breathtaking scenery, then Portugal can be considered a fantastic place to visit,” he concludes.
“Porto is growing like crazy!” he exclaims, “mainly because of the recent upgrade of the city’s airport and the fact that Ryanair has a hub there.” Costa also feels that the Portuguese capital is great value at the moment with many bargains available in the hotels. “Lisbon is a unique resort destination - I don’t know any other European capital where visitors can play golf in the morning before going shopping and enjoying an afternoon on the beach,” he adds.
Simplicity is the key And the prospects continue to look good, even in a year that many in the travel industry have already written off as one of the worst on record, although the ongoing problems in North Africa and the Middle East are helping to boost the figures in Portugal and competitive destinations like Turkey and Spain, particularly the Canary Islands. “A conservative estimate for 2011 would be an increase of something between 5 and 10 per cent in visitor numbers and anything up to 5 per cent more bed-nights. We’re also expecting tourism receipts to rise by as much as 5 per cent this year. 2010 was the turnaround year in terms of tourist numbers and, although some regions are slower to pick
For further details on Portugal please contact; The Portuguese National Tourist Office. 11 Belgrave Square London SW1X 8PP Tel. 020 7201 6666 Fax. 020 7201 6633 www.turismodeportugal.pt www.visitportugal.com
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REGION | WESTERN ALGARVE
Best of the West A holiday in the Algarve doesn’t have to mean crowded beaches and long queues. Head for Sagres and discover stylish seclusion, suggests Paul Bernhardt
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here’s barely a ripple disturbing the water. The sea is like glass. A brilliant aquamarine hue melds with a spring green wash and dashes of cyan – the lucid colours of a shallow inlet. Sunlight glitters off the surface like scattered diamonds. Above, an unblemished sky of navy blue stretches across the horizon and carries with it only the faintest of breezes. Martinhal Bay is a privileged location. Tucked into a cove at the western extremities of the Algarve, its wide, half-moon beach is brushed with golden sand and heaped with dunes carpeted by swathes of sinewy marram grass. It faces south so avoids the worst of the winds this region of southern Portugal is renowned for. Lending character to the seascape is an outcrop of rock that sits
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in the bay and provides sanctuary for an assortment of birdlife. Fluttering over the beach is a Blue Flag, a distinguished environmental award that recognises water quality, cleanliness, safety and amenities. In fact, Martinhal Bay is integrated within the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, a protected nature reserve and one of the most beautiful and unspoilt settings in the country. The western Algarve is not an immediate choice of destination for holidaymakers to southern Portugal. Sagres, the fishing town that sits under a limestone bluff about a mile away from Martinhal, is Europe’s south-westernmost community, and its relative isolation is palpable. The
drive here from Faro airport is a good hour, and it would be tempting to divert to the more publicised resorts of Albufeira, perhaps, or Carvoeiro and even Lagos. But to do so would be to neglect an area celebrated for its stark splendour, precipitous Atlantic coastline and a tangible sense of history. Windswept and austere defines the landscape of the Sagres peninsula and neighbouring Cabo de São Vicente. Early Greek chroniclers described it as the end of the earth. The Romans were less fatalistic, calling their Cape Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred Promontory). Etched into the town’s whitewashed walls and terracotta roofs is a historical legacy – and a fair sprinkling of myth – that has its roots in the 15th century.
Photos: Paul Bernhardt
WESTERN ALGARVE | REGION
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REGION | WESTERN ALGARVE
Was it here that Prince Henry built his famed school of navigation? Is the monolith Fortaleza de Sagres the place where the man who laid the foundations for Portugal’s maritime expansion lived and worked? A tantalising clue is the mysterious Rosa dos Ventos, a wind rose, or wind compass, of enormous proportion etched into the ground within the walls of the fort. It would have been used to measure the direction of the wind and its impressive 140-foot diameter, its outline marked with fist-sized pebbles, does conjure up images of the brooding and scholarly
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Henry clutching a polished astrolabe and discussing conquest and exploration with his assembled cohorts. To travel the road from Fortaleza de Sagres to the lighthouse at Cabo de São Vicente is to skirt a dramatic shoreline of mighty cliffs that in places drop sharply to the sea. On days when Mother Nature’s mood is not so conciliatory, thunderous rollers crash into the base of this monstrous rock to explode in a mass of spray, sending plumes of saltlaced mist shooting into the sky. They don’t call it ‘The Wild West’ for nothing!
Budding botanists should time their visit between February and May when the land is flecked with a rainbow-coloured carpet of plants and flowers. The road snakes through a headland of stunted vegetation that’s anchorage for an astonishing array of species including shrubby pimpernel, milk vetch, common mallow, fringed rue and endemic cistus and narcissi. The bouquet is beguiling, and if you’ve time and the inclination, walking or cycling is by far the most rewarding way of experiencing this glorious patch of wilderness. Visible ahead is the strawberry red beacon topping the St Vincent lighthouse. This
WESTERN ALGARVE | REGION
unmistakable landmark not only provides navigational aid to passing ships, it’s homed in on by thousands of birds during the spring and autumn migrations. It’s also the stopping off point for a steady stream of tour coaches whose passengers are allowed 15 minutes to soak in 500 years’ worth of history before climbing back on board and heading back to civilisation. It’s always best to arrange your own transportation to this corner of the Continent. Ten years ago visitors to this part of the world would have been hard pressed to secure accommodation above simple bed
and breakfast lodgings. The Algarve’s western coast has always lured the surfing fraternity, attracted to some of the best breakers in Europe. Hostels and pensões sufficed and there was little need to cater for the more discerning holidaymaker.
Vila do Bispo, an entire village - Aldeia da Pedralva - has been painstakingly refurbished and its cottages turned into charming rural boltholes. But what really epitomises this outward renaissance is Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel.
All that has changed. While the surfers are still waxing down their boards, and the VW camper van remains de rigueur, the region can now offer a more upscale tourism product. Sagres, for example, can boast a sexy 4-star - Memmo Baleeira - that overlooks the harbour and is classified a Design Hotel. Inland, hidden away behind
The resort gently unveils itself to overlook the aforementioned Martinhal Bay and has been carefully designed to blend in with the contours of the surrounding environment. In fact, it’s very organic in appearance, with several buildings wrapped in wood and everything else decorated in muted, earthy tones.
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REGION | WESTERN ALGARVE
Martinhal Beach Resort Sleep Accommodation at the resort is divided between superbly appointed Ocean Houses, Bay Houses, Garden Houses and Pinewood Houses.
Play Guest amenities include a choice of five swimming pools, sports club and the Finisterra Spa. This is the region’s first 5-star destination. It’s upmarket but low key, exclusive but accessible, and almost entirely orientated towards the family. Children love this place. It’s a playground in the park. It’s where bundles of energy can busy themselves in the Kids’ Club with a colourful array of toys and games, and where the imagination runs riot. Little ones can draw and paint and create worlds of their own, jump into playpens or skip over beanbags, all under the watchful supervision of grown-ups. The face painting sessions are especially lively and filled with mirth and merriment. Indeed, the whole resort is alive with seriously happy youngsters wearing wide grins and broad smiles, and their laughter is intoxicating.
Windsurfing is big at Martinhal. Even when the wind lacks strength it’s possible to glide across the bay, and when the northerlies do pick up, the more experienced can cut across the water like a knife through butter. It’s a compelling leisure option that attracts novices and old hands alike. Romance, too, is in the air at Martinhal. The achingly stylish hotel woos with its fashionable interior and noted gourmet restaurant. The views from the wood deck terrace are particularly rewarding at dusk, when the dying embers of the sun cast a lilac sheen over the darkening sky. Couples staying here can easily fall in love all over again. For Mums and Dads though, it’s enough to know their offspring are safe and happy and head-over-heels in fun.
Eat The lively Os Gambozinhos is the children’s favourite, and a great place to socialise. The wood-fired pizzas are a speciality of the house. Renowned for its fish and seafood selection, As Dunas overlooks Martinhal Bay and is perfect for al fresco get-togethers and fruity sangria.
Hotel Martinhal Comprising 36 rooms, including two duplex Beach Suites, this refined and contemporarystyled hotel commands a glorious position above the beach. The O Terraço restaurant is a gourmet hotspot. The wine cellar comprises 120 Portuguese reds, whites and rosés as well as champagnes and spumantes.
Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel Quinta do Martinhal, Apartado 54 8650-908 Sagres, Portugal
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+351 282 240 200 Email: info@martinhal.com www.martinhal.com
WESTERN ALGARVE | REGION
Peaceful Pleasures Located in a protected natural park right beside the Atlantic Ocean, Martinhal is a family orientated resort with enough activities to satisfy children of all ages, writes Mark Harding
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he opening of Martinhal last year added a new dimension to the western Algarve’s luxury accommodation portfolio. Set in a prime beach-side location on the eastern side of Sagres, there are very few places in the region to match the resort’s high level of lifestyle and the wide range of facilities on offer. “Martinhal was the first 5-star property to be built in this part of the Algarve, in a unique spot quite unmatched anywhere else in Europe. Historically speaking, Sagres is a very important town because a large part of the world was discovered from these shores,” explains the resort’s general manager, Rob Veltman. After just one year of operation, Martinhal has firmly established itself as a first-choice holiday resort in Portugal’s south-westernmost region, particularly for families seeking upmarket
accommodation with enough on-site amenities and activities to satisfy the youngsters. “Our approach towards families is different to other resorts. We do everything we possibly can to understand all of their needs in order to make their holiday a very special experience. We have the ideal environment and atmosphere for children of all ages and this year we have introduced kids’ clubs for different age-groups, while our new sports academy means that guests of all ages can learn to play a variety of sports while they are here. We are also developing new programmes for families looking to explore the surrounding areas by bike, on foot or in a jeep,” he says. Fine dining is another mainstay of the Martinhal mix, with the emphasis on showcasing the very best in Portuguese cuisine.
“Besides offering a good selection of international dishes, we promote the Portuguese food and wine culture through a choice of three different restaurants that serve a wide range of Portuguese specialities in addition to a large selection of local wines.” Above all, Martinhal is a place to unwind and recharge the batteries in an area many believe is the most peaceful and picturesque corner of the Algarve. “Our location in a protected natural park beside the Atlantic Ocean makes the resort very special. We don’t have any neighbours so there’s nothing around us in the way of high structures. It’s the ideal place for people, especially families, looking for a five-star product with a very relaxed style of service and hospitality surrounded by nature,” says Veltman. www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 14
SIGHTSEEING | PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
Ocean Heritage Lisbon’s Parque das Nações splices modern architecture with a seafaring tradition. Paul Bernhardt embarks on a voyage of discovery.
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’m being watched. I noticed him earlier. An odd looking fellow with a flattened head and a poor excuse for a goatee trailing from his chin. He’s got acne. His long, sinewy frame is pocked with large, uneven spots. I move away. But he’s right there, snapping at my heels. Strange thing is, he doesn’t have any legs. Instead, at one end of his body sprouts a bouquet of probing tentacles. I reckon if he stood up straight he’d be at least 20 metres in height. But of course, giant sea serpents don’t walk. They swim. And I’m not treading water in some terrifying aquatic nightmare. Rather I’m
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strolling along Esplanada D. Carlos I at Parque das Nações and my feet are stepping over a mosaic of fantastic marine monsters, the kind that used to strike fear into the hearts of medieval sailors when they really believed the depths were patrolled by huge legless creatures with skin problems. But Lisbon’s “Park of Nations” is all about the imagination. And it’s all about the oceans, too. The unique cobblestone artwork known as calçadas decorating the pavements and promenades are embellished with nautical motifs – exotic denizens of the deep, curvaceous mermaids, numerous bearded
Neptunes, celestial globes and the ubiquitous caravel – the matchbox-sized lateen-rigger that Portuguese explorers risked their lives in during the 15th century to chart new worlds. I’m visiting the park on a weekend. Sunday afternoon has lured chattering city dwellers to the Jardims d’Água, a verdant garden of indigenous and sub-tropical flora. The landscape is designed around a boardwalk that reaches across a shallow lake to interconnect pebblestone islets crowned with colourful, fragrant shrubs. Children’s laughter floats on the soft, mild breeze. Above, a cloudless sky envelops us all in a daylight blue veneer.
Photos: Paul Bernhardt | Parque das Nações viewed from the upper levels of the Tivoli Oriente Hotel
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES | SIGHTSEEING
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SIGHTSEEING | PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES Water features prominently in the makeup of Parque das Nações; the entire area borders a five-kilometre stretch of the Rio Tejo, and it’s this relationship with the river that defines much of the park’s personality. A walk east along the Passeio Ribeirinho allows uninterrupted views of the estuary and the majestic Ponte Vasco da Gama – at 17.2 km one the longest road bridges in Europe. The Caminho da Água (Water Path) on Alameda dos Oceanos features quirky 2-metre high ceramic volcanoes that erupt water at irregular intervals – much to the surprise of unsuspecting passers-by. Finishing off an ice cream, I meander through the gardens and bag a wooden bench under the shade of a stubby umbrella pine. Relaxing, I soak in the scene. This whole area hosted Expo’98 (see panel), the last World Exposition of the 20th century that took place between May and September 1998. Its theme was ‘The Oceans, a Heritage for the Future’. That year also marked the 500 years since Vasco da Gama discovered a sea route from Europe to India in 1498. It was an anniversary celebrated with great pride by the Portuguese. Thirteen years later and Parque das Nações, as it was renamed after the exposition, remains inextricably linked with the oceans. A mountain bike peddled by a rather shapely pair of legs whooshes by, a flaxen ponytail flying in its wake. She breaks the spell and I move on, towards the reason I’m here in the first place.
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PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES | SIGHTSEEING
Gare Oriente railway station
Lisbon’s “Park of Nations” is all about the imagination. And it’s all about the oceans, too
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SIGHTSEEING | PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
The Oceanário de Lisboa looms large out of the water in Docas dos Olivais and is connected to terra firma by a link span. Its appearance is akin to a ship moored in a harbour. Designed by American architect Peter Chermayeff, the oceanarium was the biggest single draw during Expo’98 and today is the most popular tourist attraction in Portugal.
baseball cap riding over a pair of poppingwide eyes. “And there”, cries his sister, pointing furiously towards the plexiglass, “a big ray.” I smile and nod. This is what it’s all about. What better way to teach kids about the planet’s amazing wealth of bio-diversity than to bring them to a place like this? It’s a fun-filled encounter with a serious message. And we can all learn a thing or two into the bargain.
Parting with the admission fee I follow my fellow visitors across the bridge and enter the darkened sanctuary. What greets me is astonishing: a vast aquamarine canvas splashed with emerald and turquoise and alive with fish, just too many species to count. This is the central tank, the Global Ocean and the beating heart of the aquarium. I stare in silence, absolutely mesmerized by this incredibly beautiful underwater ecosystem.
The ray, a common eagle ray according to my handy guidebook, glides by in effortless slo-mo while the zebra shark motors ahead as if to keep an important business meeting. Several species of shark and ray share this submarine playground. Other residents include grouper, snapper, eel, barracuda, amberjack and the colossal sunfish, the largest bony fish in the world.
There’s a family group standing next to me, similarly spellbound. “Look, a shark!” shrieks the little boy gleefully, an about-turned
A tour of the oceanarium unfolds through two viewing levels, terrestrial and underwater. The first depicts four coastal
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habitats: North Atlantic, Antarctic, Temperate Pacific and Tropical Indian. These manmade environments are incredibly lifelike and buzz with birdlife – puffin and penguin compete for the best perches along with other feathered wonders. The lower level features the same quadruple habitats but from a subterranean perspective, and houses 24 smaller focus tanks teeming with brilliantly hued tropical species. I reach the Pacific Habitat and meet the Oscar-winners of the entire show – Eusebio and Amália, the cuddly sea otters that have a penchant for floating on their backs while clutching each other’s front paws to solicit collective oohs and aahs from the camera wielding crowds. I take my own pictures before heading towards the exit and a spot of lunch. Ambling back along Cais Português I cut underneath the wafer-thin concrete pall that is the roof of the Pavilhão de Portugal, a landmark building designed by Álvaro Siza Vieira, one of the county’s most distinguished architects.
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES | SIGHTSEEING
Parque das Nações is renowned for its contemporary complexion. The design signature is refreshingly modern and cutting edge. Even stick-in-the-mud traditionalists acknowledge the daring creativity behind such architectural treats as Santiago Calatrava’s Gare Oriente with its organic texture and flaring, gull-wing awnings. I also appreciate the Pavilhão Atlântico, designed by Regino Cruz, and its resemblance to an upturned ship’s hull. Adding to the park’s unconventional character are quirky pieces of urban art dotted here and there. Look out for Jorge Vieira’s oxidised steel sculpture Homem-Sol standing tall outside the Vasco da Gama shopping mall, and the dismembered Rizoma by British sculptor Antony Gormley – the same artist responsible for the UK’s Angel of the North. By now I’m hungry and I really must stop to refuel. There are dozens of restaurants to choose from, offering anything from sushi and seafood to pasta and curry – they don’t call it Park of Nations for nothing! After window-shopping a few menus I settle for a well-done steak and a glass of Portuguese red and make towards a new eatery recommended by a friend. Hitting my stride I glance down at the ground. Good. No sea serpents. Then I cross the road, grinning.
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The way it was...
SIGHTSEEING | PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
Your Parque das Nações essentials... Must see Oceanário de Lisboa One of Europe’s largest aquariums, the oceanarium has recently inaugurated its first temporary exhibition to complement the existing tour. Called “Sea Turtles, The Journey” visitors can view these extraordinary creatures through a series of specially designed windows. +351 218 917 002/06 www.oceanario.pt
Top and above: The Expo’98 site and the Vasco da Gama bridge under construction
L
isbon was riding the crest of a wave back in 1998. For 132 days, between 22 May and 30 September, 11 million people descended on the Portuguese capital to visit Expo’98, the last Wold Exposition of the 20th century. It was an ambitious multi-cultural event, with 156 countries represented. Expo’98 was constructed from scratch. A five-kilometre, 50-hectare strip of land east of the city centre bordering the Rio Tejo was chosen as the location and redevelopment began in earnest. An outdated petroleum refining facility was dismantled and an abandoned armaments depot decommissioned. Disused warehouses and decaying housing stock were torn down. Boatyards and deserted railway terminals were demolished, along with a slaughterhouse and a sewage treatment plant. The badly polluted River Tranção was cleansed, as was the neighbouring Olivais docklands. One structure was left standing for posterity, the oil distillation Petrogal Tower. Every new building was pre-sold for use after the festivities ensuring that post-Expo’98 the site would not become semi-abandoned as a white elephant. Renamed Parque das Nações, the site today is one of the city’s busiest commercial and residential districts and draws millions of tourists every year to its wealth of visitor attractions. 21 | Summer 2011 | www.portugal-life.net
Pavilhão do Conhecimento If you’re visiting with kids let them loose in the ‘Knowledge Pavilion’ – a funtastic interactive science and technology museum that woos youngsters with a whole range of gadgetry and wizardry. Toddlers can “launch” a hydrogen rocket, don hard hats and build the Unfinished House and even take a high-wire bicycle ride. Mums and dads will love this place too. +351 218 917 104 www.pavconhecimento.pt
Teleférico Leave everyone else standing and hop into a gondola for a gentle cable car ride along the riverfront. The memorable views place the whole area in glorious perspective. +351 218 956 145
Where to stay Tivoli Oriente Located in the heart of Parque das Nações, the 279-room Oriente enjoys a reputation as an excellent business hotel and is also very family-orientated. Top-floor rooms are blessed with stunning views. Leisure facilities include indoor swimming pool, sauna and Turkish bath. Wi-Fi is available in all public spaces and meeting rooms. +351 218 915 100 Email: reserves.hto@tivolihotels.com www.tivolihotels.com
Olissippo Oriente This stylish hotel blends in well with the contemporary architecture that characterises the area. Accommodation comprises 182 rooms, including 14 suites and one room adapted for physically challenged guests.
Those on the top floors afford a glorious panorama. The property has garnered an enviable reputation as a business venue. +351 218 929 100 Email: auditor.oo@olissippohotels.com www.olissippohotels.com
Where to eat Hippopotamus Grill Definitely not for vegetarians, the choice of succulent grilled steaks at the “Hippo” is impressive. They even serve raw cuts for the meat-eating aficionado. King of the heap is the massive 1.4 kg Bife de Charolês. Loosen the belt for the ice cream and brownies. +351 218 915 460
Real India Travel photographers will appreciate the colourful images of the sub-continent decorating the walls of this upmarket curry house. Exotic tandoori dishes are the specialities but the aromatic biryanis are equally tempting. The wine list pays homage to some noted Portuguese reds and whites. +351 218 960 303 www.realindia.pt
Sabor a Brasil Order a caipirinha cocktail and contemplate the menu of authentic Brazilian cuisine at this colourful and lively eatery. The tasty feijoada à Brasileira (black bean and meat stew) and moqueca de camarão (shrimp stew, Bahian style) are typical of the South American flavours the kitchen conjures up. +351 218 955 143 www.saborabrasil.com
Sagresjaria A firm favourite with the locals, this stylish beer hall enjoys a privileged position overlooking the River Tagus and serves traditional Portuguese fare such as leitão da bairrada (suckling pig roasted in a woodfired oven). A thirst-quenching range of Sagres beer is on tap, including dark Bohemia. +351 218 957 041 For more information about the park visit: www.portaldasnacoes.pt
GUIDED TOURS Monday | 11.30 a.m.
Informatiom and booking visitasguiadas@teatro-dmaria.pt www.teatro-dmaria.pt
Š Ana Paula Carvalho
D. Maria II National Theatre
DIPLOMATIC PROFILE | NEW AMBASSADOR
Credentials Presented Peter Callaghan meets His Excellency, João de Vallera, the new Ambassador of Portugal to the United Kingdom.
H
visited me and I hosted a lunch at the residence for the All Party Parliamentary Group on Portugal.
He joined the diplomatic service in 1974 and has, according to him, had a somewhat unconventional diplomatic career as he has spent most of it in Europe.
“ I attended a reception at Lancaster House for First Magazine with Secretary William Hague and I visited Lambeth, where there is a large Portuguese community. I also visited the City of London for a luncheon with other EU Ambassadors and bank representatives.
is Excellency, João de Vallera, took up residency in Belgrave Square, SW1 last February with his wife, Margarida.
His first posting was to Bonn in 1977, two years later he moved to Brussels, in 1989 he spent one year in Madrid, before moving back to Brussels, where he was closely involved with the negotiations of the Treaty of Maastricht and became Deputy Permanent Representative for almost six years. In 1998, he moved to Ireland as Ambassador, residing in Dublin before returning to Lisbon, after which time he spent four years in Germany as Ambassador from 2002. Before he came to the UK, he spent four very interesting years as Ambassador in Washington USA. His Excellency told Portugal Life & Travel a little about his views and life in London. “The first really important thing that happens is that I have an official presentation to the Queen. My wife and I were taken from our residence in Belgrave Square to Buckingham Palace in a horse-drawn carriage. During a private audience, I presented my Letters of Credence, which is an official document from one head of state to another head of state, giving legitimacy and official recognition of my appointment as Ambassador to the United Kingdom. The letters stay at the Palace until I am reassigned, when I am then given a Letter of Recall. “My days in London have naturally been very busy. To give you just a few examples, this week I have opened a Conference on Immigration Policies at King’s College, had a working visit from my Moroccan colleague and, in the evening, held a dinner at our residence. The following day I attended a breakfast meeting with Minister for Europe David Lidington at the Foreign Office and held a lunch at our residence with journalists from a British newspaper. In the evening, I was invited by my Brazilian colleague to their annual Chamber of Commerce dinner”. “The following day, two representatives from a Portuguese construction and solar energy company
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“At the weekend, I met with members of PARSUK - a Portuguese association of researchers and students in the UK. Margarida, too, leads a very busy life. An Ambassador’s wife’s role is very important. It is voluntary, of course and not one that everyone recognises. ”She runs the residence and everything official that takes place there has to be looked after by her. She also makes her own appearances and has her own activities. For example, last month she was involved in a Spring Fair in Kensington, for a charity run by HRH Duchess of Kent. Margarida was responsible for organizing different products that come from Portugal. These ranged from ceramics and wine to embroideries with all proceeds being donated to the charity. She also has her own contacts with other Ambassadorial colleagues and recently organised a fund raising dinner for the Red Cross. “In my very limited spare time, I like to listen to classical music and I hope to play a little tennis in the summer. I have not yet had time to explore the richness of London as much as I would like, but hope to do so in the near future. “Looking beyond the financial and economic problems that Portugal is facing, there are many lesser known economic advantages that the country has to offer. Portugal is a net exporter of technology since 2007. Important structural reforms were already achieved – namely in the social security system, reinforcing its long term sustainability – and impressive progress took place in strategic areas like education, science and research, e-government, renewable energy and high-tech infrastructures, underpinning a real potential for growth.”
Photo: Š Press Association 2011
www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 24
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Palheiro Estate, Madeira Island Today starts with: Him
Her
✔
A round of golf on the Palheiro Golf course A walk around Palheiro Gardens Lunch at the Clubhouse Big game fishing on the Balancal
✔
Relaxing at Palheiro Spa A swim at the Village Forum Stay at home and appreciate the view
Located on a prime hilltop site overlooking Funchal, the 130 hectare Palheiro Estate has grown from an early 19th century hunting lodge and summer retreat for nobility into a sophisticated resort destination. We invite you to stay with us, either at the hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro, a member of Relais & Chateaux, or in the award winning Palheiro Village, with its magnificent views over the Bay of Funchal – or let the beautiful island of Madeira become a more important part of your life by investing in a home here. Freehold property prices from € 325.000 Attractive offers available for investor and lifestyle buyers.
B EST D E V E LO P M E NT P OR TU G A L
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WINING & DINING | PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE
Regional Variety Dão wines are among the most diverse in Portugal. Kathryn McWhirter heads north to find out why.
W
hat region of Portugal makes beautifully balanced wines, whites and rosés as well as reds? Fresh, brightly fruity young wines as well as firm, oaked, complex wines you can tuck away in your cellar? The wine region that best ticks all those categories is Dão, up in the north, radiating southward from the main town Viseu, very rural, nestled in hills, mountains and forests, bang in the centre between Aveiro on the coast and Guarda over near the Spanish border. Nowadays it’s much less isolated – an hour from Porto (ten years ago on the old roads it would have taken four) and just two hours from Lisbon compared to the eight hours you might never have bothered to drive. And deservedly, the wines are on restaurant lists all over Portugal – well, perhaps not yet in the numbers they really deserve.
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PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE | WINING & DINING The Dão region has all kinds of advantages as far as grape-growing is concerned. It has an ideal terroir (as the French would no doubt say, if it were theirs) – that wine-defining blend of geology and climate. Alvaro de Castro strides through his hillside vineyard at Quinta da Pellada. This is the most beautiful place, overlooking the forested foothills of the Serra da Estrela to the east (Portugal’s highest mainland mountain range). “Up here we’re on the frontier of not having ripe grapes,” he says, his lined face exploding into a grin, “We’re always looking for the best exposition, the best slopes to capture the sun.” At altitude, temperatures are cooler, especially at night, which is a positive thing as chillier nights allow the grapes to keep their aromas and flavours, and guard against over-ripening and consequently soaring levels of alcohol. Mountains encircle the Dão region, with the Serra da Estrela forming a soaring backdrop to the east and south, with many of the best vineyards on its foothills. Actually, there’s more forest than vineyard – you can cross the region on its narrow roads from mountain to mountain through pine forest, oaks, lime trees, eucalyptus, and not even see a vine. You may hear sheep bells – the Serra da Estrela is, after all, the source of Portugal’s famous, gloopy cheese.
Photo: rLuis Pais/ViniPortugal
The soil is also part of the terroir. It’s mostly degraded granite, through which solid rock often protrudes. The old houses are built of granite, walls sometimes more than a metre thick, with wooden shutters against the cold of upland winter. As far as the wines are concerned, granite soils give brightness and a mineral quality very typical in the Dão. Dão wines have never been as good as they are today. But the region suffers from its reputation of years gone by. Dão wines used to be woodaged in ill-equipped cellars, kept hanging about until all that bright fruit had gone. And those tired, faintly vinegary flavours of old have stuck in the memories of wine-drinking AngloSaxons of a certain age. For most of the second half of the 20th century, local regulations insisted that all the region’s grapes should be delivered to co-operatives. Only a couple of producers managed to slip through loopholes
and make better wines. It was the European Union (EU) that changed everything. Four years after joining, Portugal was obliged to break the monopoly of the co-operatives, allowing private estates to make their own wines. EU money helped finance new vineyard and cellar equipment, not only for the new private producers, but also for the tired co-operatives. Dão always had excellent raw materials – but some undesirable grape varieties as well. Over the last 20 years, the better varieties have multiplied, especially in private estates, and many of the poor quality vines have gone. Most Dão is a blend of varieties, but sometimes you’ll come across single-variety wines – a good way to get to know the flavours. For reds, there’s the famous Touriga Nacional – probably at its best here in Dão, where it keeps its acidity and all its fruity-flowery aromas, damson, violets, raspberries, blackcurrant, strawberries. There’s Tinto Roriz (Spain’s Tempranillo) making berry-fruity, lively, firm reds, Alfrocheiro (fruity and soft) and copious amounts of Jaen (Spain’s Mencia) which can taste flabby in warm areas but can be very good in higher, cooler parts of the Dão, flowery, easy, strawberryfruity. Dão producers pride themselves on clever blending to achieve their ideal wine. It’s not just red. Dão is also one of the best spots in Portugal for fine whites. Star white ingredient is the Encruzado, a local grape with lovely flowerycitrus flavours and often a mineral note. It’s good young and fruity, good oaked, and capable of developing interesting flavours as it ages. It is often blended with a selection of Arinto, Malvasia Fina, Verdelho and Bical.
Dão names to look out for: • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Pena de Pato, Calabriga Quinta de Sães Quinta da Pellada Quinta da Giesta Quinta da Bica Quinta da Fallorca Solar de Darei Quinta das Carvalhais Quinta das Roques Quinta da Maias Quinta de Cabriz Pedro & Inês Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha
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WINING & DINING | PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE
O
Petiscos flavour the menu at this stylish Algarve eatery
ne dark night two Decembers ago, Algarve restaurateur João Lourenço and his team flitted from their traditional Casa Paixanito in Loulé to the new, modern Paixa, and opened next day. Just outside Vale do Lobo, Paixa is busy and buzzy, airily modern, white, black, beige, silver, mood music, chandeliers and candles, an important bar, and at the back a simple garden, tables on a cobbled terrace under a big sun canopy overlooking a suburban lawn with big cushions should one feel the desire to flop.
This may be Portugal, but you won’t necessarily flop from over-stuffing – unless you over-order,
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PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE | WINING & DINING
that is. Petiscos are on the menu here (across the border they would be tapas) a list of 50 or so, perfect portions (not too small) of Portugal’s traditional flavours cooked from excellent raw materials to a very high standard. João Lourenço is a perfectionist.
mustard, their outer shell thin and crispy. A warm salad of polvo (octopus) is dressed with garlicky vinaigrette with coriander leaf, a yummy cheese soufflé accompanied by a good mixed salad topped with parmesan crisps. And I’ve never had a better feijoada – bean stew, full of flavour.
Paixa Restaurant Quadradinhos Lote 52, Vale do Lobo, 8135-854 Almancil +351 289 394 699 www.paixarestaurante.com
For nibbles there are tremoços - yellow lupini beans, cooked and salted – to pop from their skins, and a lovely, bracing olive oil from Vale Meão in the Douro Valley. The pataniscas de bacalhau, traditional codfish balls, have far more fish than normal, and lovely, moist croquettes are heavily laden with oxtail, with a lift of Dijon
The wine list is long, and the staff know their wines, which are on show, refrigerated or air conditioned, in a ‘cellar’ behind dark glass by the entrance. You can come here just for a drink, or for petiscos at any time from12am to 12pm. They are closed on Sundays. Parking is easy.
Opening Times Open Monday – Saturdays noon to midnight, but dinner only from 15 July to 15 September. Closed Sundays Typical price for a meal-sized selection of petiscos with house wine €40.
All photos: rights reserved
Kathryn McWhirter
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WINING & DINING | PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE
Contemporary dining in one of Porto’s most celebrated restaurants
I
definitely rate this amongst my best ever meals in Portugal. Pedro Lemos (the name of the restaurant as well as the young chef-owner) is tucked away along a narrow residential street of old Foz, a short walk up from the Douro Estuary.
Pedro Lemos has family roots across the North, and his cooking retains northern themes and ingredients, reworked in precise and accomplished modern style with clever blends of flavours and the most beautiful presentation. Luckily for the gatronomes of this posh western
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suburb of Porto, Lemos dropped out of the faculty of engineering in Guimarães to work with Miguel Castro e Silva at Porto’s famous Bull and Bear restaurant, then moved to Lisbon under Aimé Barroyé at the Pestana Palace, and then back north to the exclusive Quinta de Romaneira restaurant in the wilds of the Douro valley before setting up on his own a couple of years ago. We ate in the muted blue and candlelight of the first floor. It’s an intimate place, 20 covers downstairs, 20 up, plus a small upper terrace
for summer, the decor casual-chic, cosymodern, a background of good jazz. The menu is poetic in Portuguese, slightly dodgy in English, but the smiley waitress, professional and discreet, gave amazingly fluent explanations of the dishes in English as well as Portuguese, and she knew her wines – the sommelier was not there the night we visited. (Eduardo Neto is a top sommelier, his wine list very good, mainly Portuguese, and helpfully arranged by wine style.)
PORTUGAL ON YOUR PALATE | WINING & DINING
Our degustation menu took in a flavoursome cheek of porco preto stewed in red Vinho Verde with a tiny salad of rojões (crunchy belly pork); beautifully crispy-skinned turbot on a bed of truffled celeriac, saffron sauce and samphire, with a streak of beurre blanc; lamb, confit and quick-roasted, with broa (northern corn bread) worked with olive oil, vanilla-laced carrot purée and pea purée with sautéed peas, and a squidgy hazelnut brownie on salted caramel, lemon sorbet, chocolate-
topped banana mousse and a heavenly hazelnut mousse. A taxi will brave the little streets to drop you at the door, but parking is down by the estuary, or it’s a shortish tram or bus ride along the river road from central Porto. Easiest of all might be to stay across the way at The Four Rooms (www.4rooms.org), a small, sleek designer B&B within an old house – breakfast would be by Pedro Lemos.
Restaurant Pedro Lemos Rua do Padre Luis Cabral, 974, 4150-459 Porto +351 220 115 986 www.pedrolemos.net Opening Times Monday and Tuesday evenings only, Wednesday to Saturday lunch and dinner, Sunday closed except for private functions. Typical price for three courses with house wine €40 Kathryn McWhirter
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Portugal T HE W INE
Charles Metcalfe & Kathryn McWhirter
quality deserves... gal’s treasures than her “...we know less of Portu to fashion, iclers who are no slaves chron s need ly clear gal Portu courageous, the rare, for the individual, the but have a deep passion and the delicious.” O Z C LARK E
Recommendation Learn to recognise the every wine in this book… s Metcalfe has tasted terie, ned wine critic Charle fine cheeses and charcu best of traditional fare, the
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restaurants, the nt, learn where P ORTU GAL New-wave a stodgy disappointme uese meals have been
If past Portug and of course sea food… and try again… and Food Lover’s wine trade goes to eat, all the time! The Wine visit. you can’t eat and drink exciting other places to EALS We accept that ETWE EN , and selects the most you around the regions guides also l Portuga st, we have sought out Guide to farmhouse bed and breakfa to hotel luxury tion. points, from LEEP At all price with a wine or food connec often stay, to places heric comfortable and atmosp you twist your tongue and wine lists. We help understand the menus PEAK – or at least bits of Portuguese. maps. around the gastronomic on our clear and simple s, restaurants and hotels winerie best the to F IND your way
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“The best restaurants, the best wines, wineries to visit, M B atmospheric places to stay, what to see in beautiful S S hidden Portugal (as well as the Algarve…)”
Louis Roederer International Wine Book of the Year Kathryn McWhirter
ryn McWhirter
Charles Metcalfe & Kath
Charles Metcalfe &
or those who already know and love Portugal, this is a great source of information on many of Portugal’s best restaurants (traditional as well as new-wave modern), and a much-needed clear guide to the vast and varied array of wonderful wines that Portugal now produces.
Charles Metcalfe
TO
Kathryn McWhirter
IN
F OOD L OVER ’ S G UIDE
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The Wine & Food Lover’s Guide to Portugal P byW Charles Metcalfe & Kathryn McWhirter E AT
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T HE W INE
but also loves good wine and food, endent traveller who We lead you around This guide is for the indep the fabulous beaches. Portugal, country – and not just of undiscovered inland wants to discover the ryside count ing , and the stunn edible Lisbon and Porto wines. out everywhere for the wineries. eye best l the specia Visit a g list. ant keepin best wines on the restaur
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Charles and Kathryn wrote their first book on Portuguese wines 25 years ago. Highly illustrated and beautifully designed, this could be a coffee table book,
but it is also intended for use on the spot, with practical details about how and when to visit wineries, and suggestions for characterful places to stay, often amidst the vines. Importantly, no one paid to be included reviews are independent and critical. The book covers all of mainland Portugal plus the Azores and Madeira. Visit www.innhousepublishing.com to download the Azores chapter and get a flavour of the book.
Order your copy from www.amazon.co.uk for only £11.85 (save £5)
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• Representing the purchaser in all steps, from providing the promissory contracts, through to the deeds and their registration • Clients can purchase properties without the need to travel to Portugal
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PORTUGAL ON THE PALETE | PEDRO LEMOS
www.portugal-life.net | Summer |
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DESTINATION | TRÓIA
Tróia Story
Paul Bernhardt visits the fashionable Tróia Resort on the Sado Estuary which combines striking contemporary design with a beautiful and pristine environment.
F
or much of the day a vaporous sea mist has shrouded the mouth of the Sado Estuary and the Tróia headland, washing out colour and blurring form. Now, however, the corridor of water separating the busy port town of Setúbal and its cross-channel neighbour is shimmering under a nascent sun. The veil is lifting, carried away on a freshening breeze.
The lime-green catamaran ferryboat pulls up alongside the pontoon and ties up without fuss. Its passengers alight – an animated posse of tassel-haired youngsters, several family groups – the kids racing along the quay ahead
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of their parents – and a well-groomed elderly couple clutching hands and his ‘n’ her walking sticks. All make their way past the marina, some darting into one of the waterfront cafés, others no doubt heading for the beach or perhaps checking into one of the nearby hotels. Arriving by sea at Tróia Resort is akin to landing on an island. The contrast between city and coast is palpable. In fact, the resort lies at the tip of a peninsula, a narrow spit of sand that resembles a long bony finger. It’s pointing north, back up towards Lisbon, which is only one hour’s drive away. A car
ferry also serves the resort, the terminal located on the eastern flank of the spit, about 10 minutes south of the headland. It’s the convenience of it all – the capital city within shouting distance, the hop across the water – that makes a stay at the resort one of Portugal’s most attractive holiday options. But this is not a destination for the masses. Instead, its contemporary and stylish appearance, upscale amenities and international flavour have branded eco-friendly Tróia with a designer label that appeals to the more discerning visitor. Just take a look at the Tróia Design Hotel.
Photos: Paul Bernhardt
TRﾃ的A | DESTINATION
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DESTINATION | TRÓIA
T
he five-star property overlooks the marina, and its north-facing façade is a fabulous arrangement of meandering balconies shaped to resemble gently rolling waves. Each floor is unique in pattern and the fluidity of the design lends the building a real sense of motion. At night the balcony contours are illuminated, further enhancing the undulating combination of glass, chrome plating and concrete.
Guests staying here are treated to a permanent exhibition of contemporary Portuguese art. No less than 250 individual
works, anything from painting, drawing, photography and sculpture, are exhibited in the hotel’s rooms, suites, apartments and public areas. The gleaming, over-sized stiletto shoe in the ground-floor lounge is the creation of Joana Vasconcelos, one of Portugal’s foremost installation artists. It’s called Sandália Cinderela (Cinderella’s Slipper). On closer inspection you’ll notice it’s constructed entirely out of assorted stainless steel cooking pots and their lids! It’s a clever and wry take on the evolution of the woman, and
the footwear made out of cookware is the hotel’s signature piece. Displayed in the bar is Paulo Mendes’ inkjet print of Tróia in the 1970s. Back then it was all about platform shoes and Elvis sideburns and the picture is a reminder of how the resort has evolved over the last 40-odd years. The hotel’s original architect was Conceição Silva and it’s another Portuguese architect, João Perloiro, who while maintaining Silva’s concept has wrapped the whole thing up in the 21stcentury.
From top left clockwise: Contemporary accommodation mixes comfort with style; the casino’s futuristic interior; minimalist décor at Salinas Brasserie; the innovativelydesigned exterior; modern art exhibited in the B&G restaurant. Opposite, top: A leisurely stroll along the boardwalk; the Sado estuary; Opposite, below: Cinderella’s Slipper by Joana Vasconcelos.
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TRÓIA | DESTINATION
T
he peninsula’s Atlantic coastline stretches south for 18 km – that’s 11 miles of pristine golden sand fringed with shifting dunes and emerald pine woods. Much of the territory lies within the boundaries of the protected Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado.
The nature reserve is a wildlife haven. The broad, shallow estuary attracts a wealth of birdlife and during winter and in certain periods of the spring and autumn migrations the mudflats and sandbanks are teeming with estuarine birds such as little stint, grey plover, bar-tailed godwit and sandpiper. Reed-beds also provide shelter for nesting, and patience might be rewarded with a glimpse of the shy purple heron or the watchful marsh harrier. The Sado Estuary is also celebrated for its resident school of dolphins. Occasionally this lively class can be viewed from the shore, their charcoal-grey dorsal fins visible scything the water’s surface. But if you really want to get close up and personal get yourself on board an official tour boat whose operators know exactly where to encounter these extraordinary creatures. If fashionable modernity best describes the resort, then yesteryear charm more or less sums up the village of Comporta. Saunter through with eyes wide open because if you blink you’ll miss it. This really is a one-horse town. Visit during the summer months and you’re likely to be outnumbered by numerous white storks. These large, graceful birds have requisitioned all available property in order to nest (even here real estate is at a premium) and the loftier the premises, the better. The church belfry penthouse is always in demand. Listen out for the noisy gossip – a stork’s bill-clattering has been likened to distant machine gun fire. Connoisseurs of fine wine will be interested to learn of the new shop that’s recently opened at Herdade da Comporta, the winery located just outside the village. And next door is the Museu do Arroz Comporta, a former rice factory that is today a noted restaurant.
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DESTINATION | TRÓIA
Your Tróia essentials... Where to stay
Casino de Tróia Tróia’s smart new gaming complex wins with its funky interior décor – a futuristic-looking high-tech floorspace designed by architects specializing in sound and light.
interior features some delightfully contemporary flourishes and the ambience is wholly inviting. As you’d expect, the menu errs heavily towards rice dishes – the arroz de bacalhau is delicious. There’s also a sushi lounge.
www.troiadesignhotel.com
Estrada Nacional 253 +351 265 497 555. Closed Mon.
Where to eat Tróia Design Hotel Tróia Design Hotel is a member of Great Hotels of the World Luxury Collection www.ghotw.com/troia-design-hotel Double rooms start from €148 For more information or to book please visit or call: 0044 (0) 20 7380 3658. +351 218 917 002/06 reservas@troiadesignhotel.com www.troiadesignhotel.com
What to do Cetóbriga Roman ruins Archaeologists have unearthed extensive foundations of Cetóbriga, a Roman town dating from the late 3rd century AD, located a 10-minute drive south of Tróia resort. +351 265 499 400 / +351 939 031 936 Mon-Fri 9am-6pm
B&G Restaurant Tróia Design Hotel’s own B&G Restaurant offers a menu inspired by traditional Portuguese food. www.troiadesignhotel.com
Púrpura Beach Bar & Restaurant Tróia Resort’s chic beachfront eatery attracts a young, lively crowd. This is a cool place to chill after a strenuous day sunbathing. Grab a deck chair and enjoy a caipirinha cocktail on the terrace.
Comporta Café Restaurant Bar Very popular hangout during the summer and a favourite late-night venue. Open for lunch and dinner. Praia do Comporta +351 265 497 652 www.comportacafe.com
Excursions
+351 937 970 200
Ilha do Arroz Beach Lounge & Restaurant Nestling in the dunes overlooking Comporta beach 15 km south of Tróia, this stylish and colourful bar and restaurant is big on seafood. Open for lunch and dinner. Praia da Comporta +351 265 490 510. Closed Tue. Wine-tasting The José Maria da Fonseca winery is renowned the world over for its table wines and Setúbal Moscatel. At the Manor House Museum visitors can tour the three cellars, and wine tastings are conducted in the well-stocked shop. +351 212 198 940 www.jmf.pt
Dolphin watching Observing the bottlenose dolphins in the Sado estuary is a highlight of any visit to the Tróia peninsula. Vertigem Azul operates Esperança, a 23-metre catamaran that provides memorable encounters with these graceful and intelligent mammals. www.vertigemazul.com 39
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Museu do Arroz Comporta One of the most popular restaurants in the region, the ‘Museum of Rice’ is housed in a former rice factory-turned-museum, located just outside the village of Comporta. The rustic
Convento da Arrábida A whitewashed smudge half-hidden in lush vegetation, this 16th-century building was once a Franciscan monastery. Now used as a cultural centre, the terraces command glorious views of the ocean. +351 212 197 620 Tours by appointment at 3pm Wed-Sun.
TRÓIA | DESTINATION
Tee time Tróia’s golf product is one of the best in Portugal, writes Mark Harding
G
olf is another of Tróia’s staple visitor attractions, serving as the perfect complement to the casino, conference centre, concert venue and other leisure amenities. Opened in 1982, Tróia Golf Course hosted the Portuguese Open the following year and, according to golf director António Castelo, the club now ranks as one of Portugal’s top courses, along with Monte Rei, Oitavos and Praia d’El Rey.
“Tróia has always been one of my favourite courses, even before I came to work here,” remarked Castelo. “When I lived in the Algarve I used to drive all the way up to Tróia to play golf. It’s certainly one of the best courses in Portugal. Anyone who isn’t familiar with Tróia will be pleasantly surprised by its proximity to the sea.” With its small greens and narrow fairways, the course runs parallel to the Atlantic Ocean and is memorable for its exhilarating sea views. And for those with an appetite for golfing
challenges Castelo, who himself plays off a handicap of two, recommends the course’s third and unofficial signature hole which, he warns, is strewn with hazards such as the strategicallyplaced pine trees on the fairway and the long strip of sand running down the left-hand side which, in his words, is reminiscent of the deck of an aircraft carrier! “The course architect, Robert Trent Jones Sr, once said that from all the courses he has designed around the world, the third green at Tróia would be included in his top eighteen holes of all time,” he revealed. Indeed, the course is an integral part of the peninsula’s product mix and one that’s held in very high regard by international golfers everywhere. “Tróia markets itself as a quality resort and having a great golf course is extremely beneficial to the hotels and real estate developers,” he added.
After nearly 30 years of success as a golfing operation, the club’s attempts to get a second 18-hole course beyond the drawing-board stage have been thwarted due to the unfavourable economic climate, despite the fact that a) it was part of the resort’s original masterplan and b) the American golf course architect Cabell B. Robinson has already provided an early draught of the layout. However, the construction of a new course called Comporta Links – a short drive down the coast – is now set to go ahead which, besides further establishing Tróia as a first-class golfing destination, will give visiting players a wider-ranging experience during their stay on the peninsula.
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DESTINATION | TRÓIA
The Amorim Turismo group’s stylish five-star hotel is the hub of Tróia’s recent renaissance as an upmarket tourism destination. Mark Harding reports.
T
róia’s rare geographical attributes have attracted property developers since the early 1970s when the long, sandy promontory emerged as one of Portugal’s first timeshare destinations. It subsequently flourished as a mid-budget holiday resort as families, mostly from Lisbon, took to descending on the peninsula during the hot summer months, and occasionally at weekends at other times of the year.
The place has changed almost beyond recognition since then due to a major restructuring and full upgrade of the resort’s tourism infrastructure, the centrepiece of which is the Amorim Turismo group’s impressive Tróia Design Hotel and casino complex. “The hotel building is part of the original Tróia masterplan but it stood unfinished for over thirty years. Amorim bought the gaming licence for the casino and was obliged to build a five-star hotel, conference centre and show hall as part of the deal,” explained Miguel de Andrade, general manager of the Tróia Design Hotel. The stylish five-star property stands in a prime waterside location overlooking the Sado estuary. The busy fishing port of Setúbal can be seen in the distance. Accommodation consists of 66 deluxe guestrooms and 144 residential units, including 14 sumptuous suites blessed with three spacious bedrooms and a 60 square-metre terrace. “People can invest here and buy their own apartment outright,” he said, adding that a number have already sold. The name Tróia Design Hotel suggests something architecturally ground-breaking and guests arriving by car or passenger ferry get an idea of its contemporary design as 41
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the ultra-modern structure looms into view during the 20-minute crossing from Setúbal. “With its discreet and understated luxury, the design concept is present in every small detail of the hotel. The designers chose the best colours and exactly the right materials for the building to blend in with its natural surroundings. The walls of the interior are adorned with works from the hotel’s private modern art collection, including the guest-rooms which feature pieces from Portuguese artists,” said Andrade.
The Tróia lifestyle When Miguel de Andrade first arrived in Tróia in October 2009, much of the infrastructure was still under development and there was little to interest tourists in the way of cafés and bars and other amenities. “There were no restaurants, supermarkets... nothing! Now, with its village-style environment, the place has lots of human activity and all the necessary facilities in place,” he explained. Since then, Tróia has metamorphosed into a modern, self-contained destination capable of attracting upscale travellers at any time of the year and not just in the high season. Gone are the days when hot weather triggered the ebb and flow of tourists, and the beach was the sole reason why anyone would ever want to visit. “Today there’s a casino, conference centre, concert hall, golf course, show jumping [arena] and a wide range of other reasons why people come here, so with all these facilities Tróia can attract visitors year-round.” Nature is another vital component of the newlook Tróia as developers strive to meet the growing demands of the eco-conscious tourist with projects designed to blend in with one of Portugal’s most endearing landscapes.
In spring the peninsula is a garden of wild flowers sprouting up amidst the sand dunes, pine trees and occasional vestiges of Roman ruins that archaeologists believe are the remains of the ancient city of Cetóbriga, wiped out by a huge tidal wave centuries ago. “Tróia offers visitors the best of both worlds. Besides being very stylish and sophisticated, there are kilometres of uninterrupted white, sandy beaches where visitors can walk for hours barefoot,” enthused Andrade. A number of fashionable beach cafés can be explored along the way that offer an appetising menu of freshly caught fish and seafood and list several excellent local wines.
TRﾃ的A | DESTINATION
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MADEIRA | CHARMING HOTELS
Quinta do Monte
Charming Hotels
Elegance and personal service mean a stay at any of these hotels is a pleasure by Frances Rogers
Quinta do Estreito
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CHARMING HOTELS | MADEIRA
T
he Charming Hotels group have four really ‘charming’ hotels in and around Funchal. Each hotel is in a glorious location with its own character, but same high standard of service and friendliness. Two retain an elegance of yesteryear with antique furniture and period interiors, two are more contemporary behind the original façade. Quinta das Vistas, at the back of Funchal, has lovely views over the town towards the sea and a heavenly spa.
Also in Funchal, but much closer to the sea, is Quinta Perestrello. This is a smaller hotel with 36 rooms in an old manor house with an outdoor pool.
Up in the hills, behind Funchal, is Quinta do Monte. This is in the heart of the village of Monte, right beside the Nossa Senhora church which can be seen for miles. Beside the hotel are the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, but the hotel has its own 17,000 square metres of lush gardens to wander in, along with a pretty little chapel – which is still used for weddings. The last in the collection is Quinta do Estreito, 20 minutes west of Funchal in Camara de Lobos. This hotel is part converted manor house, part modern with an olive grove, French garden, lavender field and outdoor pool.
Any resident staying at one hotel can catch a free shuttle bus to any of the other hotels to eat in their restaurants or explore their gardens and facilities. The company offers special packages for the annual Atlantic Festival each June. Charming Hotels: +351 291 750 000 www.charminghotelsmadeira.com
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PROPERTY | MADEIRA
Atlantic Retreat by Frances Rogers
M
adeira is one of Portugal’s many assets. A beautiful island, 620 miles south west of the mainland, 35 miles by 14 miles and with a population of only 250,000. Most people live in the capital, Funchal, which lies on the south side of the island around a natural bay and overlooking the Desertas Islands. These are home to a very rare colony of seals and can be visited, but not inhabited.
just a few feet beside the glistening blue sea, the beauty of the island is plain to see. The island is always green and rarely short of water, which is brought down from the hills to the southern coast by levadas, manmade aqueducts dating back to the 16th century. Over 600 miles of the maintenance paths beside these are walkable, taking picturesque routes through the hillside and these attract many tourists every year.
The island has an even temperature and with a sea breeze, air conditioning is hardly needed. Much of Madeira is hilly and wooded with ancient Laurissilva forests; two thirds of the island are designated National Parks and therefore can never be built on and it has a dramatic coastline of 93 miles. Madeira is not a destination for beach lovers, but it is great for scuba diving, game fishing, dolphin and whale watching and walking in stunning locations. If you want beautiful beaches, then you need to go to neighbouring island, Porto Santo, but that is another story.
Not surprisingly, with the island’s challenging topography, there is little room for new development. Much of the prime land is owned by the Blandy family, who are very much part of Madeira. Since John Blandy first visited the island in the early 1800s, he and his descendants have established very successful businesses making and exporting wine and in shipping. On the 130 hectare Palheiro Estate, the current Blandy family are now building attractive holiday homes, all with stunning views of the Atlantic ocean.
As you arrive on a steep descent by plane, passing terraced hillsides before landing
The golf course on the estate was built in 1993 and in 1997, the original hunting
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lodge built by the 1st Count of Carvalhal in 1804, was restored by the Blandys and turned into the five-star Casa Velha do Palheiro hotel, with 20 acres of beautiful tropical gardens, tea house, chapel, spa and tennis court. More recently, part of the estate is being transformed into a luxury holiday home development. Palheiro Village, which is on the lowest part of the estate overlooking the Bay of Funchal, has 79 one, two and three bedroom apartments and three and four bedroom villas. Designed by international architect, Michael Brown, these are built to a very high standard with high ceilings, large terraces, air-conditioning and under floor heating. A clubhouse, pool and pool bar is situated within the village and there is a full management and rental service. There are also 30 villa plots, on the western side of the golf course. Prices start at €295,000 for a one bedroom apartment, from €595,000 for a three bedroom villa and from around
MADEIRA | PROPERTY
€1.5 million for a plot of land with villa. The company also offers Palheiro Estate Lifestyle deals where the purchaser is exempt from paying the condominium charge for the first 3 years, and also receives either a golf membership, 12 days sport fishing/dolphin watching on the Balancal yacht, or Spa treatments. Palheiro Village: +351 291 794 015 www.palheiroestate.com or Beaney Pearce: +44 (0)20 7590 9500 www.beaneypearce.co.uk
I
n the heart of Funchal, Vilagiorgi is an intriguing development being built on land surrounding the English Church. This will be a green oasis of tranquillity in the bustling and historic quarter of San Pedro and will be a mix of converted buildings and new apartments, designed to blend in with the existing architecture. “There will be a small boutique hotel with 34 rooms and 10 suites, a Spa in the old wine lodge offering treatments specialising
Palheiro V
illage
in rejuvenation, a lap pool, gym, library, restaurant and bars, tea house and 33 two and three bedroom contemporary apartments - all overlooking the central walled gardens. “There will be a lot of landscaping and green integration cypress and bamboo, for example - built into the facade of the buildings,” says project manager, Philippe Moreau. Prices will range from €395,000 to €638,000 and investors have the opportunity to leaseback their apartment to the hotel, receiving approximately 50 percent of the whole rental pool, (indexed to the number of days that the apartment was available in the rental program) regardless of whether their actual property is let or not and with no restriction on when they can use it themselves. Vilagiorgi: +351 291 241 330 www.vilagiorgi.com
N
ear the south eastern tip of the island, by the 264 berth marina, which
Palheiro Golf
was built in 2003, is Quinta do Lorde, a 16 hectare development. This will be designed to be a sustainable resort, selfsufficient in water and energy. Already built and sold are 12 apartments by the marina and another 127 one to three bedroom apartments and three bedroom villas are to be built on the hillside overlooking the sea. There will also be a 5-star hotel, 3,500 square metre spa with indoor pool, shops, restaurants and a chapel. A restaurant and bar, situated by the lighthouse, are already up and running. “The idea was to create a small village,” says Alfredo Firmino. This is an ideal location for people who want a bit of peace and quiet, where they can walk and enjoy the rock pools and tide filled swimming pool, plus small man made beach.
Prices range from €381,000 to €1.5 million. Savills: +44 (0)20 7016 3740 www.savills.com or Abacus: +351 213 170 577 www.abacusproperty.pt
Quinta do
Lorde
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Starting 1st June Manchester to Lisbon 6 non-stop flights a week with connections to Africa, USA and Brazil
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Inc. tax, booking fees, baggage allowance and on-board meals
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You have just found the perfect family holiday destination! Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel is ideal for families of all ages to relax and unwind in a stunning beach front setting. Located on the unspoiled Western Algarve, we boast a wide selection of family houses, luxury villas and a five star hotel. There’s a host of activities available, or you can leave the kids in our crèche whilst you relax and get pampered at the spa or enjoy a quiet caipirinha overlooking the bay. Please visit our website for the latest special offers and packages
For further details, telephone +351 282 240 200 or email res@martinhal.com
www.martinhal.com
EVENT | PROPERTY CONFERENCE 2011
Portuguese Chamber of Commerce Property Conference 2011 Report by Mary Wilson
T
he 7th Annual property conference took place on 10 March at the Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel in south west London, sponsored by Banco Santander Totta and Banco Espirito Santo. At this well attended event, there were over 80 delegates representing Portuguese banks, travel and development companies as well as ten members of the press and nine illustrious speakers including Andre Jordan, chairman of the André Jordan Group and His Excellency, João de Vallera, the new Ambassador of Portugal in the UK.
His Excellency, who is the Honorary President of the Portuguese Chamber, gave a realistic report of Portugal’s financial situation and spoke positively of how tourism is a very important economic activity in Portugal, accounting for 11% of GDP, 15% of total exports and 10% of employment. He said that British tourism is the largest market for Portugal, growing by 6.4% in 2010 and went on to say that reforms in the country were already taking place. He also explained that Portugal had 49
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made great progress in its research and development programmes, especially in technology and education. But its most noticeable progress was in renewable energy, which exceeded 55% last year. His Excellency also reiterated that Portugal was not affected by the housing bubble, nor did it have any toxic assets in its banking system. The Ambassador was followed by the Conference Chairman, Dr. Jorge de Abreu of Abreu & Marques e Associados. He emphasised that the country’s residential tourism and real estate market has a good future, although perhaps it needed more support from the Government and the Tourist Board. He highlighted some new areas of development, including ‘magic cities’ such as the old part of Lisbon and Porto, where investors are choosing to buy a second home.
He also discussed the new regions which are already attracting tourism including the Douro Valley, where the increase in visitor numbers has been phenomenal, the Alqueva Reservoir in the Alentejo and the Atlantic coast, both north and south of Lisbon, and mentioned new ones for the future such as the mediaeval towns and cities in the north, the mountains, the game reserves and fishing. ‘Leisure and office’ retirement, where people come to Portugal to do a little work remotely, play some golf and go out to explore different areas could be another new facet of residential tourism. “Portugal can offer diversity in a very special way,” he said. “We have a very good road network with it only taking five hours from north to south and a couple of hours from Lisbon to the Spanish border.” Giving his outlook on the future he said that although there was still a lack of credit,
PROPERTY CONFERENCE 2011 | EVENT
HE The Ambassador of Portugal - João de Vallera
André Jordan
there were opportunities through foreign banks and that development should carry on, but in areas where there is potential. “There are buyers out there, but they need to be approached and seduced,” he said. “However, the developers can’t work alone, they need to work with the government and other developers. The Government should look at the reduction or elimination of property tax and the simplification of procedures for overseas investors and create more inviting tax breaks such as a non domicile concept for foreign residents.” Francisco Palma, research director for Espírito Santo Research, then spoke of how Portugal ‘has what it takes’ in the way of golf, equestrian facilities, health and well being, marinas, hotels, apartments and shopping centres, but how more work was needed to
Francisco Palma
persuade people to visit. “We have what the demand is looking for,” he said. “The country may be small, but it is different and beautiful and prices in Portugal have been very stable through the years.” The last speaker in the first session was André Jordan, who has 50 years experience in dealing with investors and residential development. “People see Portugal as somewhere which is safe and stable and they look at Portugal as a place to invest. We are a niche market with niche products and I want to sell to people who want to come here and feel comfortable with our style,” he said. “If we want to get back into the market, we need tax benefits and incentives. Maybe the Portuguese government will wake up to the fact that that this is where you
Jorge de Abreu
can get immediate results in the way of employment and investment.” He also talked about creating developments with a view to the environment. “We are proud to be acknowledged as the prime mover in the environment. It’s not difficult, nor expensive to build in this way, you just have to want to do it and it pays because it reduces your costs,” he explained. All in all, the overriding sentiment to come through this year’s conference was that Portugal needs to do more to promote tourism and it needs to organise more events to encourage people to come to the country. Only then, will Portugal attract the numbers of visitors that it would like to see.
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REAL ESTATE | PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
CampoReal
Property Spotlight Whatever your pocket, there is a wide selection of property to buy in Portugal from apartments to townhouses and villas at superb developments on the Algarve, the western coast or inland. by Mary Wilson
Ocean Clube
CampoReal
Amendoeira Golf Resort
Ocean Clube is development area within Vale de Lobo with the enviable advantage of being on some of the last beachfront land available in Portugal. It is also flanked by the Ria Formosa nature reserve. The properties look directly over the Atlantic and none are more than a few minutes’ walk from the beach.
At CampoReal, a golf resort with spa and fitness centre set in the hills of the Silver Coast and 30 minutes north of Lisbon, there is a selection of property to buy. With a five-star hotel, tennis courts and equestrian centre, there are 135 residences, each decorated in a modern Portuguese style.
The Amendoeira Golf Resort in Silves is a perfect development for golf loving property investors. Here, there is a selection of property from two and three bedroom apartments with access to a communal pool to three bedroom villas or luxury four and five bedroom villas with private swimming pools and landscaped gardens.
Plot sizes range from 800 square metres to 4,500 square metres and are priced from €1.3 million.
Prices start at €250,000 for a one-bedroom apartment
Prices start at £367,000.
€290,000 for a two bedroom townhouse Plot and villa construction would cost from €3 million.
€650,000 for a four bedroom villa.
Lansdowne: +44 (0)20 7268 2100 www.lansdowne-re.com
Premier Resorts: +44 (0)20 8940 9406 www.premierresorts.co.uk
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Or, you could buy a quarter share, through Stepping Stones fractional ownership, prices from £126,000. Barton Wyatt: +44 (0)1344 843000 www.bw-international.com
PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT | REAL ESTATE
Amendoeira
Tavira
Pine Cliffs
Obidos
Ocean Clube
Pine Cliffs Golf & Leisure Resort
Tavira
Quintas de Óbidos
At The Pine Cliffs Golf & Leisure Resort near Albufeira, there are villas, townhouses and apartments for sale. The villas are designed in traditional Portuguese architecture, the townhouses are ultra contemporary and the apartments are being sold with a guaranteed 5% rental for 3 years.
A luxury three bedroom villa is for sale in a private development just 5 minutes from Tavira and within walking distance of the fishing village of Cabanas and the beach. The villa is built to a very high standard with a living/dining room on the ground floor with log burning fireplace set in a marble surround and private terrace overlooking the tropical landscaped gardens and pool. The master bedroom has a Jacuzzi bath and the windows have electronic shutters. There is also 24 hour reception and security at the development.
There are 79 villas being built at Quintas de Óbidos, an equestrian development on the Silver Coast endorsed by top international horse rider Jessica Kurten. As well as the superb riding facilities, there will be a Country Club with a restaurant and spa, two swimming pools, two tennis courts, a sports field and children’s play area and five-star hotel. Each villa is set in a one and a quarter acre plot and there are 16 styles of property to choose from, all traditionally designed by four Portuguese architects.
Price: €480,000.
Prices for a plot and villa range from €1.624 million to €1.725 million.
Four bedroom villas are priced from €5.5 million; two and three bedroom townhouses surrounded by gardens, swimming pools and a lake are for sale from €1.275 million and two and three bedroom apartments cost from €725,000. Hamptons Client Services: +44 (0)20 7963 0614 www.hamptons.co.uk
Winkworth Tavira: +351 281 328 210 www.winkworth.pt
UK sales office: +44 (0)845 838 2868
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REAL ESTATE | PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
Praia d’El Rey
Three and four bedroom villas offering luxurious living with a modern twist
Praia d’El Rey
Monte Rei
L’And Vineyards
Praia d’El Rey is one of the more established developments on the Silver Coast. This 230 acre golf and beach resort has a five-star hotel, tennis courts, children’s club and small shopping centre. Owners also have use of the water sport facilities on the nearby beaches and Óbidos lagoon. At Aldeia da Praia (Beach Village), 10 three and four bedroom villas with terraces, gardens, private pools and stunning views over the sea are for sale.
Monte Rei is a superb golf and country club on 1,000 acres near Tavira, eastern Algarve. One Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course is up and running with another due to be built, along with tennis court, spa and equestrian centre. In the village of O Miradouro, there will be 90 homes with tennis court, restaurant, bar, spa and gymnasium.
In the heart of Alentejo, there is a landmark project which is about to change the face of development in the area. L’And Vineyards is set in an idyllic location around a lake with dramatic ultra modern architecture complementing the surrounding vineyards and countryside.
Four bedroom semi-detached villas start at €1.510 million and three bedroom linked villas are priced from €1.175 million.
With a winery, wine club, spa, restaurant and lounge, there will be 125 two to six bedroom townhouses and villas.
Prices starting at €1 million. Apartments, townhouses and villas elsewhere on the development are priced from €303,000.
There will also be apartments for sale and a beach club.
Prices for the two and three bedroom townhouses start at €171,721 and villas from €464,296.
Select Resorts: +44 (0)1202 765011 www.selectresorts.co.uk
Sales office:+351 281 950 959 www.monte-rei.com
Glow Property: +44 (0)800 311 2193 www.glowproperty.co.uk
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PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT | REAL ESTATE
Monte Rei
Road to Recovery Following a very difficult last few years, the overseas property market appears to be showing some green shoots of recovery. The crash in 2008 gave purchasers a level of apprehension that had not been seen since the early 1990’s. However, the last few months have shown signs of recovery. Clients who were waiting to buy now feel the time is right.
L’And Vineyards
Pestana Trõia
Pestana Tróia Even though Portugal will now not be hosting the 2018 the Ryder Cup, there will still be a new golf course built at Comporta, 10 kilometres southwards of the Tróia peninsula. At Tróia, the Pestana Group is building its new Eco-Resort and Residences with 82 villa plots, 43 townhouses, 34 apartments and a 150 apart-hotel. Five architects will be employed to design contemporary properties in stunning locations overlooking the sea or ecological reserve. Facilities will include a club house, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, fitness centre and spa. For further information email: pestana.residence@pestana.com or visit www.pestanaresidence.com
So what is the downside? The banks are definitely not helping as lending to overseas buyers is almost impossible. Banks now commonly request conservative debt ratios of 20-30%, which means clients need nearly 80% disposable income. A buyer, with 300,000€ cash, would have previously used this for a deposit on a property of around 1 million euros. In today’s market, he will now buy a property to fit his cash budget. To offset this trend, developers and vendors are lowering their price aspirations and to entice clients to view and ultimately purchase their properties, the norm is now to accept a reduction of 20% - 30%, or cover condo fees for up to 5 years. In many cases, the reduction can be offset by the sterling versus euro exchange rate. Sellers who purchased pre-2005 were fortunate enough to buy whilst the euro was at a 1.60 high. If cash is taken back to the UK, a benefit of up to 40% can be made in the currency exchange swing. Even after capital gains, this could still outweigh the discount given to sell their property. Therefore, it is a cash buyers market with discounts on property prices giving buyers some amazing deals. For sellers, all is not doom and gloom: consider the exchange rate benefit, but be realistic about your property pricing. The high pricing of 2006 is a thing of the past, even here in sunny Algarve. Be innovative when it comes to negotiating with potential buyers. And most of all use a professional and innovative agent. The time of buyers just walking through the door is long gone….. the market has changed and how we sell property needs to change also. David Westmoreland - Managing Director B&P Real Estate Agency - Lagos, western Algarve www.bpaproperty.com | +351 282 764 193 www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 54
REAL ESTATE | Buying property in Portugal
Buying property in Portugal S
imon Perks has held a senior position with Banco Santander Totta, London branch, for over 20 years and was responsible for building the banks’ Portuguese Mortgage portfolio. As such, he has extensive knowledge of the Portuguese property market, particularly in the Algarve and has presented at many seminars and conferences and written a number of articles on the Portuguese property market. He has recently left the bank to set up his own business dealing in all aspect of property finance solutions for Portugal. Simon is also the Vice Chairman of the Portuguese Chamber of Commerce in London.
It is the intention of this article to provide any potential purchaser with a very broad view of the conveyance process in Portugal. If you are seeking to purchase a property in Portugal, it is very strongly recommended that you engage the services of a Lawyer in Portugal. If you do not have a lawyer please contact the Portuguese Chamber of Commerce (www. portuguese-chamber.org.uk) who can provide you with some recommended companies. The process of transferring of a property from one legal owner to another legal owner in Portugal is more complex than in ‘common law’ countries, such as the UK, because of the many steps involved. Purchasers should not sign any documentation about a property until they have inspected it and preferably had a professional valuation, as well as obtaining independent legal advice from a lawyer. In broad terms the lawyer will, on behalf of the purchaser, undertake the following steps:
1
Negotiate the terms of the promissory contract. This is a legally binding agreement signed by both the vendor and the purchaser and basically stipulates the sale price of the property, the deposit to be paid – usually 10% of the total sale price - and the date for completion. Failure to comply with
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any of the conditions in the contract causes a breach and generally results in the purchaser losing his deposit or the vendor having to pay back double the amount of the deposit received from the purchaser. The promissory contract is often signed by the lawyer under a Power of Attorney.
2 3
Exchange promissory contracts and pay the required deposit.
Obtain searches from the local Land Registry Department and Tax Department to ensure that the purchaser will have good and clean title to the property, following completion.
4
Arrange to pay the notarial and land registration fees together with the property purchase tax (IMT) shortly prior to completion at a tax office. The property purchase tax is charged on a sliding scale based on the value of the property.
5
Once these matters have been addressed the lawyer would then seek to complete the transaction. The transfer of property in Portugal must be made by a notarial deed known as the‘ Escritura’ (Deed of Transfer) before a Notary Public. The Notary Public will not allow the ‘Escritura’ to be signed unless all the necessary legal requirements are satisfied and the required documentation
in order. The ‘Escritura’ is written in the Notary’s records and the purchaser may obtain (on paying the appropriate fee) as many legalised copies as are required. The equivalent of ‘English deeds’ and original documents only exist in Portugal in the form of Notarial records. These are kept in the Notarial office concerned.
6
Arrange to register the purchaser of the property at the appropriate land registry department so as to secure their interest. Simon Perks Perks Property Finance Solutions Limited + 44 (0)7389 0567 + 44 (0)7780 501548 email: simon@perks-pfs.com
Buying property in Portugal | REAL ESTATE
It is the intention of this article to provide any potential purchaser with a very broad view of the conveyance process in Portugal.
www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 56
Your very own tailor-made holiday in the western Algarve
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INSPIRA | ECO-TOURISM
Green with Envy A stylish new Lisbon hotel is leading the way in environmental sustainability. Paul Bernhardt reports
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ne of Lisbon’s newest hotels is also its greenest. Inspira Santa Marta, a contemporary-styled four-star property located in Rua de Santa Marta, is currently the only hotel in the city with Green Globe Certification.
Green Globe is recognised as the premier international environmental benchmarking and certification programme. The certificate is bestowed upon travel and tourism businesses that successfully meet a range of environmental sustainability criteria set by the organization. Recipients must also be seen to actively promote environmentally sustainable development through management and operations.
Inspira’s lobby makes excellent use of natural wood
Former Inspira Group CEO Daniel Frey and Nicolas Roucos, who is the hotel’s general
manager, spearheaded the hotel’s start-up. (Frey, who defined much of the corporate and environmental strategy, has since left to develop new projects.) During its construction the hotel’s developers used building materials, products and equipment chosen for their minimal impact on the environment. Energy and resource efficiency were two important considerations. So, too, was waste management. Achieving a healthier and more comfortable environment for both guests and employees was paramount. Designers and managers worked together to draw up blueprints that integrated eco-friendly design elements with low cost performance. The proposals embraced the principles of Feng Shui – the ancient
Chinese system of aesthetics – to achieve a greater sense of balance and harmony. The result is a modern and efficient city centre hotel – a so-called ‘Urban Retreat’ – whose core values address some of the most urgent environmental challenges of the 21st century. Minimising the carbon footprint is the new lifestyle, believes Roucos. “Reduce, reuse, recycle and respect. These are the hotel’s themes.” Some of the eco-initiatives are deceptively subtle. The shampoo, gel and soap placed in bathrooms are biodegradable and come in recycled containers – a fact lost on most guests. “But this has encouraged a greener supply chain,” says Roucos, “and other hotels have begun using the same products.”
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ECO-TOURISM | INSPIRA Restaurant options include dishes whose ingredients are predominantly organic. When possible, Inspira sources locally grown or fair trade produce. And the hotel follows Marine Stewardship Council guidelines regarding seafood. For example, the cod purchased by the kitchen is from the Pacific Ocean where it is still abundant rather than the Atlantic where it is endangered. “In fact, we refuse to use any product that is not sustainable.” The investment in cutting edge technology has enabled the implementation of new forms of communication and business. The hotel can offer digital conferencing systems – so-called ‘Green Meetings’ – and advocates a paperless process. Perhaps the most tangible evidence of Inspira’s green credentials is its partnership with Pump Aid, a UK-based charity. Profits from the sale of the hotel’s own processed mineral water – sold in recycled bottles – go towards Pump Aid’s Water For Life initiative which funds the construction and upkeep of fresh water pumps in Africa. Inspira is the only hotel in Portugal working directly to support Pump Aid’s work in this way. “Inspira’s method of [selling] water onsite to guests is unique,” says Pump Aid consultant Chris Pethers. “It is a very innovative way to provide drinking water in a sustainable manner and support the provision of water supplies in rural Africa at the same time.” It costs around £1,300 to install and support what’s known as an Elephant Pump. This includes not just the materials and labour to set up the device, but also training of local communities in pump maintenance. Each pump can serve up to 250 people and as well as making the water supply more accessible the enclosed nature of the design protects the supply from contamination, thus reducing the risk of disease. In just five months generous hotel guests have raised enough money to build one pump, which is located in a village in Malawi. “All businesses, including the Travel & Tourism sector, are investing more in sustainability both within their company practices and also within [a] wider environmental, social and economic [framework],” says Pethers. “It is fantastic that companies see Pump Aid as a valuable way to invest in sustainable development. However, most of these are water-related businesses, such as suppliers of bottled water and water coolers. To have a company such as Inspira that isn’t directly water-related supporting us is wonderful.” Green Globe acknowledges corporate social responsibility as a key compliance indicator and Inspira’s successful affiliation with Pump Aid is indicative of how to invest in long-term sustainability. 61
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INSPIRA | ECO-TOURISM
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earer home, Inspira works with two local charities, autism support group Associação de Apoio a Pessoas com Autismo (APPDA) and AMARA, an association that cares for the terminally ill. Proceeds from books and postcards sold in the hotel are divided between the two good causes.
Inspira’s senior management team is quick to credit hotel staff for the effort in gaining Green Globe certification and cite the endorsement as proof that an environmentally sustainable structure is firmly in place. The hotel is currently undergoing certification for ISO 9001 and 14001.
“It’s been a lot of work for everybody,” says Nicolas Roucos (right), “and we are very proud to be recognised. It means we are doing the right thing.”
“Minimising the carbon footprint is the new lifestyle”
Inspira Santa Marta Hotel Inaugurated in 2010, the 4-star Santa Marta is built within an historic, 19thcentury mansion. The interior design signature is retro chic – all colour-coordinated printed fabrics and stencilled patterns. The use of natural wood enhances
the green theme. The 89 rooms and suites score highly on comfort and all feature high-tech audio-visual gadgetry, including internet access. A spa is located on the upper levels. The Open restaurant specialises in Portuguese and Mediterranean gastronomy.
Rua de Santa Marta 48, 1150-297 Lisbon +351 210 440 900 Email: geral.ismh@inspirahotels.com www.inspirasantamartahotel.com For more details about Pump Aid’s Water For Life campaign browse www.pumpaid.org www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 62
SPECIAL OCCASION | MONTE DO CASAL
Say “I do” Couples can tie the knot in style at Monte do Casal Country House.
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he five-star Monte do Casal, a member of The Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is further promoting its wedding package throughout 2011 and beyond.
The hotel, located near the village of Estoi in the Algarve, is a beautifully
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converted 18th-century country house surrounded by its own expansive subtropical gardens. Wedding ceremonies can be performed within the landscaped grounds, complete with lakes and waterfalls, with the bride and groom and their guests enjoying the hospitality
of one of the region’s most romantic boutique destinations. Small, private gatherings can be catered for as well as larger groups, when the wedding party can enjoy full and exclusive use of the hotel’s facilities including a swimming
MONTE DO CASAL | SPECIAL OCCASION
pool, the Michelin recommended Old Coach House restaurant and the relaxing Sanctuary Spa with its Hamman, sauna and Jacuzzi options and wealth of beauty treatments and therapies.
Menu – selections of smoked cuisine that includes smoked carpaccio of bacalhau with olive oil and roast flaked almonds, air cured smoked wild boar in horseradish cream, smoked breast of duck cured with black tea, orange zest and ginger, and hickory smoked spare ribs in barbecue sauce.
expect to find on many hotel menus and our chef has created something very special.” Not surprisingly, Monte do Casal is urging newlyweds to remain in the hotel and enjoy their honeymoon in this quiet and secluded location which is only 20 minutes away from Faro airport.
Monte do Casal consists of 18 individually designed and elegantly styled suites and bedrooms with private terrace. The hotel also features a separate six-bedroom luxury villa with its own infinity pool and outstanding views of the surrounding countryside.
The new tasting menus complement the existing à la carte and menu dégustation choices and as always the gastronomy is married to a superb selection of wines and champagnes.
Monte do Casal Cerro do Lobo, Estoi, 8005-436 Faro Algarve, Portugal
This year the restaurant is adding even more choice to its already inventive and eclectic menu dégustation. The Old Coach House now offers a Lunch Smokery Dégustation
“I felt it was time to introduce something a little different to the menu,” explained managing owner Bill Hawkins. “A smoked gourmet selection is not something you’d
Tel: +351 289 990 140/ 289 991 503 Fax: +351 289 991 341 Email: reservations@montedocasal.pt www.montedocasal.pt
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CITY STYLE | THE YEATMAN
Duet on the Douro Maureen Gilmour visits Porto and discovers good food, fine wine and a fashionable place to stay
T
he typical British appreciation of Portugal is the Algarve; very rarely is the north of Portugal spontaneously mentioned as a destination in its own right. After three days’ total immersion, we can confidently report that life is not just a beach.
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The Yeatman hotel is long and low and sprawls on a hill with each of its 82 guest-rooms enjoying their own private terraces, every view entirely personal and breathtakingly so, with its panoramic vista towards Porto’s historic centre.
When my interior decorator friend, Lindsay Jacobs and I were invited to the newlyopened luxury five-star Yeatman in Villa Nova De Gaia, overlooking the river Douro, not only were our waistlines seriously challenged but our minds expanded at the same time.
THE YEATMAN | CITY STYLE
After an uncomplicated easyJet flight from Gatwick and twenty-minute car transfer from Porto airport to the hotel, The Yeatman showed early promise in the shape of the jauntily bowler hatted doorman, Sergio, who greeted us, looking for all the world as if he had just stepped off the set of Chicago. The reception we got from him was the same as we got from all the team without exception, which was smiling, welcoming, helpful, well trained, professional, high caliber Portuguese staff with immaculate English and all so good looking
in their crisp, pink shirted uniform, they could all have come straight out of central casting. We were met and entertained by Adrian Bridge CEO of the hotel, the dynamic innovative force behind the conception of the Yeatman. He is also the managing director and family member of The Fladgate Partnership which incorporates Taylors , Crofts and Fonseca Ports, so it is hardly surprising the hotel is wine themed. The decanter shaped infinity pool and the Taylor suite where the bed is housed in a huge
wine cask, might not be to everyone’s taste but did display a tongue in cheek humour and a welcome sense of fun, which can be sadly lacking in corporate hotels. The colour schemes were quite vibrant for our tastes but as we all know, taste is very subjective. There is no doubt this is a property with a very personal touch. Nowhere is this family wine heritage more in evidence than the Yeatman Cellars, listing the world’s most comprehensive choice of Portuguese wines among others. We were lucky enough to sample several of these.
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CITY STYLE | THE YEATMAN
Ricardo Costa, the award winning executive chef, provided a treat for our eyes as well as our palates with creative, delicious food served on a variety of beautifully shaped white china dishes and red- rimmed glass plates looking like works of art.
paired with Portuguese wines that would give any old world or new world wines a run for their money. We particularly loved Fagote Douro DOC Tinto, a smooth soft red and the Dona Maria 2006, another red from the Alentejo region.
Favourites of ours were, lobster salad with squid ravioli, wild salad leaves and caviar dressing. Hake with purĂŠed aubergine with Madras curry, artichokes, asparagus and lemon oil, cabrito de terrincho the traditional Portuguese kid dish. For dessert there was a sublime banana crumble, quite unlike any crumble we have ever tasted all
The guesswork of having to choose from the encyclopaedic sized wine list was removed by Elizabeth, the informative and non intimidating sommelier. We progressed to the cheese course starring the delectably oozing Serra da Estrela and AzeitĂŁo washed down by the obligatory glass of port (or two).
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We gently staggered to our spacious rooms with their equally spacious marble clad bathrooms and stood on our terraces still mesmerized by the fabulous view of old Porto dressed in its evening finery of twinkling lights and only the occasional sound of a church bell. Almost unbelievably, the usual hum one would have expected to hear was completely absorbed by the river, giving the effect of a city with the sound turned off. I melted into the most comfortable king sized bed, slipped between the smooth cool sheets and enjoyed a dreamless sleep.
THE YEATMAN | CITY STYLE
“There is no doubt this is a property with a very personal touch”
The next morning we sampled breakfast in the sunlit orangery restaurant, prettily laid with fresh juices and fruit, flakey croissants and pastries, cheeses, hams, cereals and the inviting aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Next on our agenda was a wine tasting at Taylor’s port lodge just a walk away - fascinating! Ana Margarida Morgado took us into the cellars where the great oak-wood
and chestnut-wood barrels and pipes of Port lay maturing and gave us absorbing explanations about the grapes, the planting, picking and the whole process of Port wine-making so when we came to the tasting at the end of the three different Ports — Vintage 2007, Taylor’s 20 tawny and Taylor’s 2004 LBV — we were swirling, smelling and judging colour every bit as eloquently as Jilly Goulden.
The afternoon found us in the hotel’s Caudalie vinotherapy spa for toning massages. The spa, in keeping with the wine theme, offers treatments centred on the grape with its antioxidant properties. It seemed like the size of a small village, beautifully appointed with a Roman bath, barrel bath, Hamman, saunas and many different pampering facial and body treatments.
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CITY STYLE | THE YEATMAN Our two adorable therapists, whose strength belied their size, were quiet and peaceful and thankfully, didn’t chitter–chatter. Nearby was an indoor infinity pool, with wraparound floor to ceiling glass wall taking in the view of the medieval city with its ancient terracotta roofs, where one can swim and relax on comfortable loungers. The next morning dawned as we set off further north by car to the 18th-century
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Fonseca Quinta do Panascal, another world heritage site. On the way we stopped at the baroque Palácio de Mateus (remember the picture on the Mateus bottle) and walked around the gorgeous classical gardens. Next, on to the tiny, charming railway station of Pinhão to look at its famous blue azulejos (tiles) depicting ancient scenes of wine making. With more time to spare than we had, this picturesque spot can
be reached by boat or train from Porto, which would be a leisurely and lovely trip to make. The Fonseca Quinta is one of the top properties owned by Fonseca Guimaraens in the Douro valley region. The mountainous views are extraordinary with endless terraces as far as the eye can see of vines sloping steeply down to the river Távora, and, other than birdsong, utter quiet.
THE YEATMAN | CITY STYLE My companion couldn’t drag herself away from the property where she stood sipping a Siroco white port gazing at the view in quiet contemplation while I took the audio tour walking between the nascent vines and wild flowers with the sun on my back before returning for yet another wine tasting.
showed us around and insisted on a tasting of their wine. She told us about the harvest in September when guests can help with the treading of the grapes in the vast lagares which is quite a ritual and sounded enormous fun. Perhaps something to be put on my future “to do” list.
On our way home we made a short stop at a small family-run Quinta da Pacheca where one of the daughters of the house
Praying our livers would hold up we headed back to the hotel. Arriving in the lobby we could hear the pianist tinkling the ivories in
Dicks bar but resisted the temptation of that last glass of port as a nightcap. On our last day we were given a comprehensive tour of the hotel and were hugely impressed by the attention to detail. The Yeatman really is imaginatively thought through, their green credentials are peerless, their gardens a harbour for endangered plants and birds. There is a also a croquet lawn, and poolside bar.
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CITY STYLE | THE YEATMAN
Honeymooners could be romantically cocooned in the Bacchus suite with its bed on a revolving dais, copper bath for two, double showers, fire place, separate entrance and great room service. Oh to be young and in love! Parents can relax while their little darlings are taken care of in the quirky kids’ room reached by a lift disguised as a hot–air balloon.
very modern architecture and even the attractively shabby, all-coexisting in harmony in this vibrant city of Porto, the heart of which is a world heritage site.
For wine lovers, it is a paradise with weekly dinners given by the Fladgate partners. There is also a remarkably well-equipped gym with a personal trainer on hand.
So much to see and sadly, not enough time for us, but with the help of the funicular and a tram or two we did manage to negotiate the vertiginous and picturesque cobbled streets and visit some of the sights of this special city that should be on every traveller’s agenda.
The Yeatman is a hotel where women can feel perfectly comfortable on their own. There really is something for everyone and it would be extremely easy to be totally idle and indulgent and never put a foot outside of the hotel. However, there is so much to entice the visitor out and the Yeatman is the perfect base from which to sally forth. Culture vultures can enjoy a cornucopia of delights from the mediaeval and baroque to the 71
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We were both on a mission to see if Porto, its environs and the Yeatman hotel had anything to offer the visitor from the UK. The answer is a unanimous and resounding YES.
There are golf courses and the seaside is easily reached as are the bars, restaurants, nightclubs and theatres, museums, markets and first-class shops. Endless.
Just before leaving we had an agreeable riverside lunch in the warm spring sunshine sipping chilled crisp Vinho Verde from the Minho region and enviously watched people enjoying the river cruises, some on the traditional Rabelo boats and wished we were going too but with regret, we were soon to be airport bound.
Maureen Gilmour is an executive style consultant for the fashion designer Caroline Charles in London. Lindsay Jacobs is an interior decorator of private houses and hotels both in England and abroad.
THE YEATMAN HOTEL | DUET ON THE DOURO
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RETIREMENT | Monte da Palhagueira
Monte da Palhagueira village Winner of the Homes Overseas “Best Overseas Retirement Development” and “Readers’ Choice” Awards
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et in its own 22 acres of undulating grounds, sprinkled with olive trees and old stone walls, Monte da Palhagueira is designed for the over 55s and provides “a little piece of heaven” for those seeking to retire in the sun. Monte da Palhagueira offers 33 houses and apartments, exclusively designed for the over 55s. Set within a traditional village development of 22 acres, just 20 minutes’ drive from Faro International Airport, the village nestles in the tranquil and picturesque hillside of Gorjões, in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Excellent facilities The village offers many unique features, including its own Anglican Church, restaurant, tennis court, two swimming pools and an ornamental lake, all set within traditional village surroundings, bounded by stonewalled lanes and terracotta tiled buildings. Pastimes include weekly events such as a book club coffee morning and a social evening, with refreshments provided, all taking place within the village hall. A monthly lunch is arranged in the delightful Le Marquis restaurant and events such as the annual summer barbecue make the most of the glorious weather. The gardens provide relaxing 73
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walks, punctuated by numerous, shaded resting areas where you can enjoy elevated views of the surrounding hillside or the tranquillity of the ornamental lake and pagoda. A weekly mini bus service is provided to take residents to local shops and supermarkets in the nearby towns of Loulé and Almancil. Inspired by the ancient village of Alte, Monte da Palhagueira is home to 33 unique villas, town houses and apartments complete with calçada streets bounded by traditional Portuguese stone walls. Each property has been individually designed with traditional features and terracotta tiled roofs and all have been created with practicality and ease of maintenance in mind.
Independence and peace of mind Residents are able to maintain complete independence, yet can also enjoy the added reassurance that there is qualified
medical assistance on hand, available 24 hours a day, should it ever be required. This unique service is provided by the Monte da Palhagueira Nursing Home, which is situated in the restored farmhouse within the village itself. It provides the ideal solution for village residents needing support, yet also desiring the privacy of their own home.
Acquiring a property All properties within the village are available on the basis of a ‘Loan and Accommodation Agreement’ in accordance with English law. The loan is fully refundable at 1 year’s notice, ensuring your capital investment is protected. There are several other advantages to this arrangement. No government tax (in Portugal this includes SISA tax and a land registration fee) is payable, and upon termination of the agreement and repayment of the loan, the property reverts back to the original ownership. This process eliminates the need to sell, avoiding the incumbent expense
Monte da Palhagueira | RETIREMENT
of estate agents’ and solicitors’ fees for the resident, whilst also ensuring the continuity of the high standards of maintenance and service facilities. A quarterly service charge covers the cost of the following services, giving you peace of mind that, even on those occasions when you are away, your property will be looked after and the facilities maintained: • Twice-weekly domestic assistance and refuse collection • Buildings insurance • External maintenance of the property and its grounds • Maintenance of all electrical equipment supplied with the property • Maintenance of all communal village amenities and grounds • Street lighting • Use of village facilities including village hall, swimming pools, tennis court and gardens
Prices start from £140,000 for a 1-bedroom town house and a variety of property types and sizes are available. A 20% deposit is required to take a property off the market, with the balance payable prior to occupation. It normally takes around 3 months for completion to take place. Residents’ guests of all ages are welcome at Monte da Palhagueira and have access to village amenities. Please note that primary residents must be over the age of 55 years to be eligible to purchase.
Holiday rentals now available In addition to the range available for sale, an exclusive selection of one and two bedroom properties is now also available on a weekly holiday rental basis. Prices start from as little as £500 per property per week and each rental property has easy access, a fully fitted kitchen and residents can enjoy the full use of village amenities.
Mary Cornelius-Reid, Amesbury Abbey Group Principal, comments, “We firmly believe that age should not be a barrier to enjoying a relaxing holiday in the sun. Our rental properties provide the ideal destination for the mature traveller, perhaps with travelling relatives. We also offer a full refund of the cost of your holiday accommodation should your visit result in the future purchase of a property at Monte da Palhagueira.” Whether you are currently living in the Algarve, looking to retire to the sun or are searching for a second home to share your time between Portugal and your existing residence, you can rest assured that the services provided will allow you to make the very best of your time at Monte da Palhagueira. For further information, please contact Clive Roberts on: +351 289 990 900 E-mail: montedapalhagueira@gmail.com or visit our website at: www.retirementvillageportugal.co.uk www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 | 74
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Paul McGinley - Company Ambassador
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Your guide to Portugal’s finest golf courses Portugal Life & Travel Golf Consultant - Stuart Masson introduces you to golfing in Portugal. Central Region & Porto
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ortugal provides a variety of world-class golf courses to suit all golfing requirements and in an equally attractive variety of locations.
The Algarve is one of the most popular golfing venues in Europe, with 36 courses, excellent hotels, luxury villas and apartments. Over the years tourism has increased in The Algarve due to being synonymous with golf, it also benefits from a pleasant year round climate that is perfect for a golfing holiday. The Lisbon Coast has seen a slower golf expansion but now provides 15 challenging courses within a short journey of the city. In the north of Portugal, there are 5 courses within reach of Porto. Here the courses are much quieter but just as challenging. The Island of Madeira has 2 courses providng a sophisticated golfing alternative to the Portuguese mainland. Given its location off the North-Western coast of Africa, Madeira benefits from a perfect year-round climate. Each edition of Portugal Life and Travel, will feature different courses. This summer I have pleasure in introducing you to Laranjal golf course in Central Algarve. For a full review, turn to pages 79-80.
Lisbon Blue Coast Estoril & Cascais West Region
Azores
Madeira
Western Algarve
Central Algarve
Eastern Algarve
PORTUGAL’S GOLF PORTFOLIO | GOLF
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Eastern Algarve Benamor | Par 71 Castro Marim | Par 72 Monte Rei | Par 72 Quinta da Ria | Par 72 Quinta de Cima | Par 72
Lisbon - Estoril & Cascais
Alamos | Par 71
Belas Clube Campo | Par 72
Alto | Par 72
Golfe do Estoril | Par 69
Boavista | Par 71
Golfe do Estoril | Blue Course | Par 69
Gramacho | Par 72
Lisbon Sports Club | Par 69
Morgado | Par 73
Oitavos Dunes | Par 71
Oceânico Faldo Course | Par 72
Penha Longa Atlântico | Par 72
Oceânico O’Connor Jnr | Par 72
Penha Longa Mosteiro | Par 35 (9 holes)
Palmares | Awaiting classification
Quinta da Beloura | Par 72
Parque da Floresta | Par 71
Quinta da Marinha | Par 71
Penina Academy | Par 30 (9 holes) Penina Championship | Par 73 Penina Resort | Par 35 (9 holes) Silves | Par 70 Vale da Pinta | Par 71
Lisbon - West Region Bom Sucesso | Par 72 Campo Real | Par 72 Golden Eagle | Par 72 Praia Del Rey | Par 73
Quinta do Vale | Par 72
Central Region & Porto
Central Algarve Balaia | Par 27 (9 holes)
Montebelo Golfe | Par 72
Laranjal | Par 72
Vidago Palace | Par 72
Oceânico Laguna | Par 72
Quinta da Barca | 62 (2 x 9 holes)
Oceânico Millennium | Par 72
Golfe da Quinta do Fojo | Par 60 ( 6 x 3 holes)
Oceânico Old Course | Par 73
Golfe de Amarante | Par 68
Oceânico Pinhal | Par 72
Oporto Golf Club | Par 71
Oceânico Victoria | Par 72
Ponte de Lima | Par 71
Pinheiros Altos | Par 72 Quinta do Lago North | Par 72
Lisbon - Blue Coast
Quinta do Lago South | Par 72
Aroeira I | Par 72
Salgados | Par 72
Aroeira II | Par 72
San Lorenzo | Par 72
Quinta do Perú | Par 72
Sheraton Pine Cliffs | Par 64 (2 x 9 holes)
Ribagolfe I | Par 72
Vale do Lobo Ocean | Par 73
Ribagolfe II | Par 72
Vale do Lobo Royal | Par 72
Santo Estevão | Par 54 (2 x 9 holes)
Vila Solo | Par 72
Troia | Par 72
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Estala | Par 72 Miramar | Par 70 ( 2 x 9 holes)
www.portugalgolfclub.net
GOLF | FEATURED GOLF COURSE - LARANJAL
Report by Stuart Masson
Laranjal The latest jewel in the Algarve crown!
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fter more than 35 years as one of Europe’s most popular, memorable and enjoyable golf holiday destinations, Quinta do Lago has added a superb third course to improve its already impressive reputation. The Laranjal course, set amongst umbrella pines, cork oaks and orange trees is some 4 kilometres
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east of Quinta’s commercial and administrative centre, close to the the village of Ludo. It does not lie as close to the coast as the other 36 holes on the complex but borders a peaceful nature reserve and consequently its fairways are not overlooked by impressive luxury villas – you go to Laranjal for the golf … not the property market!
Although all the holes on the narrow fairways lie very close to each other, they are all unique and separated by copses of tall pines which penalise the wayward shot. Like any good holiday course, the rough is an inconvenience rather than a life sentence. The gently rolling terrain provides interesting views of the shot ahead and is not as tiring as some of the other nearby courses. The fast undulating greens provide a good test for all players and the par 3 seventh, 248 yards off the white tees, is one of the toughest I have played recently – if the difficult tee shot does not find the correct part of the green, three putts may be unusually acceptable.
For the best discounted golf rates in Portugal...
| Summer 2011 | www.portugal-life.net
FEATURED GOLF COURSE - LARANJAL | GOLF
The five lakes spread across the course are smaller than the lagoons of the South course but are strategically placed to offer all players the choice of risk and reward choices to suit their abilities. There are a delightful mix of tees on each hole to suit the ability of all golfers, as reflected in the various lengths of the course. When you review your enjoyment of the course with a refreshing drink in the bar overlooking the 18th green, it is no surprise to learn that the course architect, Jorge Santana da Silva, learned his profession under the auspices of one of the most renowned of modern golf architects, Robert Trent Jones Senior.
Jorge’s other work in Portugal includes his first design in Amarante in the north, nearby Pinheiros Altos, the renovation of the Montado course, and the new course at Quinta do Ombria in the Alentejo. If he continues to produce masterpieces like Laranjal we should all look forward to his next project. Should you be looking for an enjoyable day’s golf, which tests your ability to the level you desire, the pleasant serene surroundings of this excellent course will encourage you to visit Laranjal as soon as possible. Laranjal Golf Course - Quinta do Lago +351 289 359 220/1 E-mail: laranjal@quintadolago.com www.quintadolagogolf.com/en/
www.portugalgolfclub.net
www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 |
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COMPANY PROFILE | MAISTURISMO
Room Service Portuguese travel publishing company Maisturismo marks its 25th anniversary this year with a series of new developments.
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n 1986, a small publishing company based in the centre of Lisbon decided to cash in on Portugal’s growing popularity as a holiday destination by launching a hotel guide. The idea was introduced by Maisturismo’s founder, Maria Helena Barão (whose daughter Miriam now works for the company), and armed with a handful of keen and loyal employees she orchestrated the launch of the Portugal Hotel Guide to much acclaim. Twenty-five years on and the publication remains a strong market-leader on account of it being widely distributed in both printed and CD-ROM format to all those keen for a copy, most notably travel agents and tour operators selling and programming Portugal. The emergence of the Internet has triggered a change in the way consumers seek information, prompting them to move away from the traditional methods of booking hotel rooms. Travellers today have become savvy, very independently-minded and increasingly keen to find themselves the best deal. Driven by the same pioneering spirit that brought about the company’s creation, Maisturismo quickly adapted itself to the market forces by launching an online version of the guide in 1997. “Besides our printed edition, the Portugal Hotel Guide is also freely accessible on the Internet in the six languages of English, German, French, Italian, Portuguese and Spanish. It’s certainly Portugal’s most comprehensive source of hotel information,” declared Maisturismo’s owner and managing director, Hayder Al-Khodairi.
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Top spot Publications don’t dominate the market by accident and keeping ahead of the pack is a continuous challenge that requires total commitment and regular investment. This year Al-Khodairi has fine-tuned the company’s main site at www.maisturismo.pt, making it much quicker and easier for people to find the right place to stay at the right price. “We are constantly upgrading our system and looking at ways of simplifying the way people access our hotel information,” he added. Due to the nature of the Internet, and not to mention the ongoing recession, people are more money-conscious than they might have been in the past, which means they’re turning to travel sites like Maisturismo’s to find themselves a good deal, particularly for those special times of the year such as St Valentine’s Day, Easter and New Year’s Eve. “We capitalised on this by launching a special offers section in our site whereby the hotels can upload their prices and conditions straight into our system and communicate directly with the consumer,” Al-Khodairi said.
One-stop shop Since those hazy days of the 1980s, Maisturismo has broadened its appeal by introducing a range of new products and services in line with the demands of the business environment. The industry of hosting corporate events such as seminars, conferences and exhibitions, both large and small, has shown enormous growth over the past two and a half decades, particularly in Portugal, so an important addition to the company’s portfolio was the launch of the Portugal Meeting Guide, currently in its twelfth year and still the only publication of its kind in Portugal.
MAISTURISMO | COMPANY PROFILE
“The Portugal Meeting Guide is a highquality annual publication that provides detailed information about the best places to hold a successful corporate event. Portugal has many advantages for this type of business, and the Portugal Meeting Guide is designed to highlight what the destination has and help people make the right choice,” explained Al-Khodairi.
Photo: Mark Harding
Like its sister title, the guide is available as a glossy A4 publication as well as in CD-ROM format and on the Internet in the same six languages. The electronic versions of both the Portugal Hotel Guide and Portugal Meeting Guide feature a sophisticated search facility whereby users can pinpoint their criteria with speed and accuracy.
“One of the great benefits of our sites is the speed at which people can access the information they require, right down to the smallest detail.” Besides finding all the information they might need, along with photos, locations and descriptions of many of the places, visitors to www.maisturismo.pt can make a reservation immediately through the Booking.com system. And to help keep people fully up-to-date with all the special offers and latest travel news in Portugal, the company recently launched a new bi-lingual newsletter which is sent out to online subscribers at the end of each month.
www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 |
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LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM
TRAVEL & TOURISM NEWS More Rooms in the Ribeira
Accommodation comprises 68 spacious rooms and four sumptuous suites, some with a relaxing roof-top Jacuzzi. Luxury is the benchmark here with finedining a major feature in the Cascais gourmet restaurant, along with the resort’s 700 squaremetre thalassotherapy spa, one of the best in the Lisbon area.
A new four-star hotel is under construction in Porto’s popular Ribeira district, at number 1 Rua do Infante D. Henrique, to be precise. Due to open in November of this year, the Carrís Ribeira Hotel is a 90-room property installed in a 17th century building a short walk from the banks of the River Douro, in full view of the city’s emblematic D. Luis bridge which leads to the famous Port wine lodges just a ten-minute stroll away.
A wide selection of on-site activities are available to guests such as golf, tennis, cycling and horse-riding, while 10 modern meeting rooms cater for the growing number of corporate events happening in the region. The hotel’s opening follows hot on the heels of another new five-star hotel at Quinta da Marinha, The Oitavos, which opened its doors for the first time on 1 September, 2010.
Highlights for guests will be the added comforts provided by six sumptuous suites and there’ll be the chance to savour the result of the resident chef’s show cooking techniques every night in the hotel restaurant. Carrís Hoteles is a Spanish concern currently in the throes of entering the Portuguese market. Those who enjoy the company’s new brand of contemporary style hospitality in Porto can look forward to more Carrís hotels opening up along the Atlantic coast in prime locations between Lisbon and the Galician city of La Coruña in the years to come.
Set amongst the sand dunes and pine trees of the Sintra Cascais National Park, it features a comprehensive range of on-site facilities including several bars and restaurants and a large organic spa. Due to its contemporary Y-shape design, all 142 rooms and suites at The Oitavos afford fine panoramic views of the sea and surrounding golf course.
Onyria Opens in Cascais
The local area is full of tourist interest, most notably the fairy-tale village of Sintra, one of the oldest places in the Iberian peninsula, and the upmarket beach resort of Estoril with its famous motor-racing track and first-class casino.
The Onyria Marinha Edition Hotel & Thalasso is the name of a newly-built boutique-style hotel that opened on the 20th of March at the Quinta da Marinha golf resort in Cascais, in the glorious Estoril Coast region.
Accessible by train or car, Portugal’s cosmopolitan capital, Lisbon, with its many attractions and shopping options, adds much to the experience of staying at Quinta da Marinha.
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Riverside Rendez-vous Visitors to Portimão have a new place to stay, the Água Hotels Riverside Hotel, which nestles idyllically alongside the River Arade on the edge of town. Besides all the conveniences and comforts one would expect from a four-star hotel, all 136 guest-rooms afford relaxing river views, while the larger of the suites can accommodate up to six persons. The hotel was officially inaugurated on Friday the 8th of April and its opening offers people the chance to experience a different side of Portimão, away from the main holiday hubs of Alvor and Praia da Rocha. One of the most appealing aspects of the new Água Hotels Riverside is its private jetty where guests can enjoy water-skiing, boating and other types of popular water sports activities. The River Spa is another of the hotel’s main attractions where guests can recharge their energy levels with green-tea therapy and a variety of other indulgences such as a Satori-style massage and full-body pineapple and papaya exfoliation treatment.
Vila Sol Joins Pestana
One of the Algarve’s leading golf resorts, Vila Sol, has been operating under the Pestana banner since Tuesday the 1st of February.
TRAVEL & TOURISM | LATEST NEWS With eight existing Algarve properties, Pestana’s presence in southern Portugal is already very strong and on account of its location being a few minutes’ drive inland, the sprawling five-star resort adds an exciting new dimension to the company’s regional portfolio. “Vila Sol is our flagship in the Algarve,” commented the Pestana Vila Sol Golf & Resort Hotel general manager, Miguel Metello. “The Algarve isn’t just about the sun and the beach. Here we have one of the region’s top golf courses, while Vilamoura is recognised as one of Portugal’s most prestigious resorts.” Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Faro airport, the luxury resort boasts an exhaustive range of on-site facilities and amenities including a 27-hole golf course, various bars and restaurants, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, a summertime children’s club and some of the best conference and meeting facilities in the Algarve. “The combination of Pestana and Vila Sol is a very happy marriage with a great future to look forward to,” he adds. Accommodation at the Pestana Vila Sol Golf & Resort Hotel comprises 189 rooms, including a good selection of suites.
of April, 1974 and its history is a fusion of fiction and reality with a succession of royalty and leading dignitaries lodging there, including Prince Takamatsu, the brother of Emperor Hirohito of Japan, who honeymooned at the hotel in 1930. And besides serving as a refuge for many European leaders in periods of crisis, as we mentioned before the hotel famously hosted James Bond in the film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, played by neither Connery nor Moore on this occasion but by George Lazenby, his only appearance as 007. Situated in a prime location a stone’s throw from Estoril’s Tamariz beach, with the resort’s famous casino a similar distance away, the Palácio is a landmark property that has maintained the very highest standards of service and facilities since the day it first opened. The recent unveiling of the Banyan Tree Spa next door has helped sharpen the hotel’s competitive edge, while the inauguration of the Bougainvillea Terrace, an all-day-dining restaurant with a fine view over the coast, has further enhanced the Palácio’s standing at the top end of the hotel spectrum.
Europe’s Largest Man-made Beach Opens in Portugal
Palatial Pleasures
“We’re planning to open another LiveBeach facility in the environs of Madrid next year, pending a successful negotiation with the local authorities,” he added. Admission tickets for a full day are reasonably priced at 5 euros and only 3 euros for senior citizens, while a 7-day pass costs 30 euros. Children aged five and under go free. Special offers include three tickets for the price of two and for those wanting to stay overnight, there are very good deals available at the nearby Hotel Senhora do Castelo. “We have also kept concert admission prices down to a minimum, with tickets for the majority of performances throughout the summer set at 5 euros,” Braga said. In addition to the water and beach area there are restaurants, bars and a large children’s playground.
The Palácio Estoril Hotel Golf & Spa this year clocks up eight decades of illustrious service to the international tourism industry, and the occasional spy. James Bond once stayed there, and he knew a good hotel when he saw one. In actual fact, the luxury hotel did gain a reputation as a spies’ nest of sorts during World War II when Portugal was neutral and many exiled monarchs and other dignitaries sought peace and security in the calm surroundings of the Estoril Coast. The building’s roots go back to the beginning of the 20th century, when French architect Henry Martinet came up with the original design. Since then the hotel has stood firm through a world war and a local revolution, Portugal’s so-called Red Carnation revolution on the 25th
“It is a very important feature for this part of the country and includes a busy entertainment programme with live concerts happening throughout the summer. In this way we hope to attract people from all over Portugal as well as from neighbouring Spain and beyond,” explained LiveBeach managing director, Rui Braga. Representing an investiment of €2.7 million, the owners of LiveBeach are looking to extend the concept to other parts of the country and abroad.
Mangualde in central Portugal is the unlikely spot for Europe’s largest man-made beach. Opened on 15 June in a prime location on the edge of town, LiveBeach (as is it known) covers a total area of 22,500 square-metres and is comprised of 6,500 tons of sand and 945 cubicmetres (approximately 1 million litres) of salt water.
Running until 15 September, LiveBeach operates from 9am until 2am Sunday to Thursday and from 9am until either 4am or 6am Friday and Saturday. “Visitors to LiveBeach will discover a magnificent attraction set in a typical Portuguese town in the heart of the country, in very close proximity to the Estrela mountain range with all its breathtaking scenery. It’s the ideal place to relax for a few days or bring the family on holiday,” he concluded. www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 |
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LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM Merger Marks New Era for BA
plans to increase frequencies in the immediate future, Porcel cannot rule out the possibility of more flights being available in the future.
Montargil in the Alentejo region inaugurated at the end of the month. The first two are located in the Algarve.
“We are constantly monitoring the situation and checking for new opportunities,” he said. Despite the current economic downturn, Portugal has retained its competitive edge as a year-round destination and he is convinced that the country’s appeal will continue to grow for a variety of reasons.
The CS Morgado Golf Hotel is a newly-built luxury property set in a prime location between Portimão and Serra de Monchique in the eastern Algarve, surrounded by the greens and fairways of Morgado and Álamos golf courses. Accommodation comprises 103 rooms and guests have access to a wide range of on-site facilities such as four swimming pools (two for children), a clubhouse, two bars, two restaurants, a spa and private car park.
“Portugal is a place where visitors can enjoy very good value for money, which is extremely difficult to find in Europe these days. It still has a classic, old-fashioned flavour about it with plenty of modern elements, particularly in the cities. It’s a pretty unique destination,” he concluded..
Lisbon Hub for easyJet
The long-awaited merger between British Airways and Iberia finally came to pass on Monday the 24th of January triggering a mixed reaction throughout the international press.
British low-cost carrier easyJet is pushing ahead with plans to open a new hub, its 20th in total, at Lisbon’s Portela airport ready for winter 2011.
There was a widespread feeling at the time that the fusion of the two national carriers was the first step towards global dominance and would somehow affect BA’s personalised approach and general standing in the marketplace.
The new facility is costing €300 million to build and will create 2,000 jobs, announced easyJet chief executive Caroline McCall, who added that three aircraft will initially operate from the hub, with the number possibly rising to seven.
In fact, it has had the opposite effect, according to Jordi Porcel, the airline’s regional manager for the Iberian peninsula, who was brimming with optimism when Portugal Life & Travel magazine caught up with him recently. “The merger has brought lots of additional value to our customers. The extended coverage we have gained is one of the key elements we’re now offering our regular travellers and potential customers. It has allowed us to broaden our code-shares – BA with Iberia and vice versa – and both airlines have retained their individual identities and will continue providing their respective products and services,” he explained.
McCall said that the company is looking to add ten new destinations to its Lisbon portfolio, full details of which will soon be announced. EasyJet has been operating in Portugal for the past ten years and currently has a ten per cent share of the number of passengers arriving at and departing from Lisbon, which totals 1.3 million. McCall expects the number to almost double once the new hub is fully operational.
BA’s operation between England and Portugal remains solid and continues very much in the same vein, with daily summer departures fixed at four to Lisbon from Heathrow and two to Faro from Gatwick. Although there are no definite 85
| Summer 2011 | www.portugal-life.net
CS Growth Accelerates CS Hotels, Golf & Resorts unveiled no less than three new 5-star hotels in March, namely the CS Morgado Golf Hotel that became operational on the 1st of March, the CS Salgados Grande Hotel which started receiving guests for the first time on the 9th of March and the CS Hotel do Lago
Situated right by the beach on the edge of a protected nature reserve, the CS Salgados Grande Hotel is a similarly impressive property with 228 rooms, a large conference centre and an equally impressive selection of amenities. The most recent to open is the CS Hotel do Lago Montargil in an idyllic lake-side location with 99 guest-rooms, 17 suites and 7 villas. Facilities include several swimming pools and a modern spa with a full complement of health and beauty treatments.
Lagunamar Now Operational
Lagunamar Hotel opened its doors for the very first time on Tuesday the 1st of March. Situated in Ria Formosa nature park, in the upmarket Quinta do Lago district of the Algarve, Lagunamar is a modern suite hotel with 42 units comprising 24 one-bedroom and 18 two-bedroom apartments for 2-4 and 4-6 people, respectively, each fully equipped with a lounge, kitchen, one or two bathrooms and a balcony or terrace.
TRAVEL & TOURISM | LATEST NEWS Guests have access to various other facilities such as the Rouge restaurant which specialises in local dishes and Mediterranean cuisine, a bar, health club, gym, massage centre, outdoor swimming pools for adults and kids and a large sun deck and garden area. In very close proximity to Lagunamar there are several championship golf courses, horse-riding and tennis centres and water sports facilities.
Food Festival in Santarém One of southern Europe’s biggest gastronomy festivals will take place at the Casa do Campino in Santarém from 16 October until 1 November. The doors will be open to the public from midday until 4 pm and again from 7 pm until midnight Monday to Friday, and continually from midday until midnight at weekends. A small entrance fee is payable. The event has grown considerably in popularity since its launch 30 years ago. Today it features the very best in regional cooking, as well as handicrafts (most items are for sale) and folk dancing from all over country, including Madeira and the Azores. Every part of Portugal has its day to provide a typical feast along with regional-style singing and dancing and other forms of local entertainment. Representative restaurants from Galicia and São Tomé and Principe will also be present at this year’s festival.
More Pousadas in the Pipeline Pousadas de Portugal will open two new Pousada hotels in 2012. First to open will be the Pousada da Cidadela in Cascais, which is due to be officially inaugurated early in the year. Representing an investment of €21 million, the hotel will have 127 rooms, making it one of the largest properties in the group, as well as a spa, meeting rooms and a private car park. The second unit to be unveiled during next year’s summer season will be the Pousada
da Covilhã. With 92 rooms, a spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, meeting rooms and a restaurant, the new hotel is costing €20 million to build and will be a welcome addition to the Serra da Estrela region’s accommodation portfolio. Plans are also afoot to open a new Pousada in Terreiro do Paço in the heart of downtown Lisbon at a cost of €15 million. With no fixed opening date, the hotel will have 80 rooms, a restaurant, spa and various rooms for meetings and corporate events. Longer term, Pousadas de Portugal are looking at expanding the chain in different parts of the country, including Coimbra, Peniche and the Algarve.
Algarve Spa Week
L’AND Vineyards Unveiled in the Alentejo
One of Portugal’s more innovative new projects came online at the end of April in the heart of the Alentejo countryside, 4 km from the pretty town of Montemor-o-Novo and only 45 minutes from Lisbon airport. Featuring an ultra-modern architectural style, L’AND Vineyards, as it is known, is a newlybuilt boutique hotel with 22 luxury suites, ten of which (the Sky View suites) are fitted with unique retractable roofs, enabling guests to appreciate and admire the Alentejo sky, particularly on a starry night. There’s also a selection of villas and townhouses built in a contemporary Mediterranean style. One of the key elements of the resort is wine production and guests have the chance to savour the fruit of the local vineyards.
Launched last year to much acclaim, Portugal’s newest wellness initiative will take place from 1-8 October in the sunny Algarve with the participation of ten of the best hotel spas in the region. In a bit to promote the region’s facilities, all treatment during the Algarve Spa Week will be half-price at the Hilton Vilamoura, The Lake Resort, Grande Real Santa Eulália, Real Marina, Vila Vita Parc, Hotel Quinta do Lago, Crowne Plaza Vilamoura, Vila Monte, Tivoli Marina and Tivoli Victoria. Hotel guests and visitors alike will have the chance to enjoy a wide range of modern health and beauty spa treatments, holistic and alternative therapies at greatly discounted prices simply by contacting the spa of their choice and making a reservation. For those looking to sleep over either before or after the spa session, special room rates are available for one or more
A particular highlight is the L’AND Taste restaurant which draws from the rich culinary traditions of the Alentejo. The resort is also ecologically friendly and highly energy efficient. Amongst other things there’s integrated solar energy for climatisation, domestic water heating and micro generation of electricity. On-site facilities include a bar, delicatessen, organic spa, fitness centre, children’s club, baby-sitting service, extensive gardens, Wi-Fi Internet access and a wine shop. A real estate option encourages home and land owners to partake in the making of their own wine, from choosing the grapes to the final phase of production, eventually putting their own label on the bottle.
nights at all of the participating hotels. www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2011 |
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LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM Cascade Opens in Lagos
The five-star Cascade Resort was officially inaugurated Tuesday 28 June in the Ponta da Piedade district of Lagos, in the western Algarve.
complex. Informality is another appealing aspect of life at the resort, which is rarely found at properties of this status and dimension. “We need to offer something different these days in order to be successful. It’s not about opening a hotel and saying ‘here’s the beach, here’s the sun and here’s the fish on the grill’. Today it’s all about creating concepts and making them work in the longterm. The success of Cascade Resort will be in the way we operate, in the way we treat people and in the way everything is done,” Urs Wild declared.
The hotel has 86 rooms, all tastefully designed in line with the theme of the Portuguese Discoveries incorporating the four continents of Asia, Africa, South America and Europe. “The Discoveries theme extends to other parts of the hotel, including the spa, bars and restaurants,” explained the resort’s general manager, Urs Wild. In fact, there’s much to discover at the Cascade Resort, a newly-constructed €100 million development that stretches across 38 hectares of privileged terrain in one of the Algarve’s more upmarket beach locations. Amongst the guest-rooms there are 23 suites comprising 12 juniors, 7 standards, 2 grands, 1 deluxe and a presidential, the latter two boasting a private rooftop Jacuzzi. And besides sumptuous accommodation, the range of facilities and activities on offer is equally impressive, with tennis and golf academies currently under construction and the Sven-Göran Eriksson children’s football school already proving to be a very popular local attraction. “Everything will be fully operational by the autumn, including the medical centre which will serve as an extension to all the sports facilities we’ll have on site. Authenticity and diversity are the key words at Cascade Resort, and that is something we really want to get across,” he said. Guests also appreciate the high level of staff professionalism and the understated luxury that extends throughout the 87
| Summer 2011 | www.portugal-life.net
Vila Galé Announces First 5-Star Hotel in Portugal
The Vila Galé Palácio dos Arcos (as the hotel will be known) is located at Paço d’ Arcos, a charming town situated midway between Lisbon and the beach resorts of Cascais and Estoril. Due to be ready by Easter 2013, guests will have the best of both worlds by being able to stay in the peaceful setting of the Estoril Coast (sometimes referred to as the Portuguese Riviera) whilst having quick and easy access to the historic city of Lisbon just 15 minutes away by train or car. “We decided to make it a five-star hotel because of the fact that the palace is such a prestigious building. Even though Portugal is having a difficult time at the moment, we wanted to press on with this project as a means to helping the country get back on its feet. This hotel is certainly going to give impetus to the development of tourism in the micro-region of the Paço d’ Arcos and Oeiras area,” explained Vila Galé Hotels managing director, Jorge Rebelo de Almeida. Besides enjoying the hotel’s privileged location, guests will have the chance to stay in the three rooms and two suites to be built upstairs in the original palace building. The ground-floor of the main building will house the reception, restaurant, bar and library areas. A new wing to be constructed in the palace gardens will include 71 guest-rooms and the Satsanga spa comprising a heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, Turkish bath and massage room.
The Vila Galé Hotels group recently unveiled plans to build a brand-new five-star hotel, the company’s first top-end property in Portugal. The new unit represents a €10 million investment for the group and will have 74 rooms and two suites. The predominant feature of the hotel is the restoration of an old palace building, the Palácio dos Arcos, which was originally constructed at the end of the 15th century.
Vila Galé currently operates twenty-three hotels in Portugal and Brazil. Future projects include additional units in Évora, in the heart of the Alentejo region, and the historic village of Sintra, west of Lisbon.
Readers Offer 20% discount at the 5-star Vale d’ Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa in the Algarve
P
ortugal Life & Travel has arranged an exclusive offer for our readers with Vale d’ Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa in the Algarve.
Proud to be a member of the prestigious organisation of ‘Great Hotels of the World’; your holiday here will transform the way you spend your precious leisure time.
The 5-star Resort, centrally located and just 45 minutes from Faro airport, comprises 80 luxury, 1 and 2-bedroom Family suites, 2 suites and an elegant 22 bedroom hotel with panoramic views over the surrounding hills and nearby golf course.
The Publishers of Portugal Life & Travel are delighted to be able to offer a 20% discount for the first 10 readers to apply for a 1 week stay at this stunning luxurious resort.
Vale d’Oliveiras is designed to complement the natural beauty of its location. Arranged within exquisitely landscaped gardens designed to preserve and enhance the indigenous flora.
To apply, contact Portugal Life & Travel: Email: sales@portugal-life.net or + 44 1935 881762 Discount is based on published rates. Offer closes Friday 30th September 2011. Offer applies to the first 10 readers who apply. Holiday to be taken between 1st October 2011 and 31st March 2012. Reservations subject to availability.