EDITOR’S LETTER 16
48
HERE’S AN UNPOPULAR opinion: January is actually pretty good. Yes, we still get up in the dark, there might be a credit card bill we’re not thrilled about, and some of our clothes won’t fit for a little while. But here’s the thing: it’s all ahead of us. Maybe your salon or a treasured team member will enter and win an industry competition. You might get sick of looking at your four walls and have a makeover (and let us know if you do because we want to big it up in The Places, as we do with HairPeople on page 16) or get schooled in a service you’d been meaning to perfect. Maybe, like Amica Eco’s Greg Clarke (page 14), you’ll gain a better understanding of how to authentically speak to and service a more diverse potential client base. You could sustain healthier eating and drinking choices without being too hard on yourself (page 50). You might make the same resolutions you always do, or have a full-on revolution and level up your skills or the way you do business like never before (page 20). Whatever you get up to, January is a good time to lay the groundwork for success. Let’s go!
Rachel-Marie Walsh Editor-at-largeJOIN US!
Happy 2023! We hope you’re ready for a new roster of Creative HEAD happenings because the calendar is fast filling up – and we want you with us along the way! So, what’s for the taking? First, we strongly recommend you book now for Salon Smart London (20 March) to save £15 on your ticket. This is business networking at its best, but our early bird rate expires end of the month! For details head online (and catch highlights from Salon Smart Dublin on page 34). SELF/STYLED Sunday is making a beeline for our freelance community on Sunday 29 January. Look forward to a colour masterclass from James Earnshaw and a trend forecasting panel featuring The Big Blow Out winner, Vicki Hoskin, turn to page 40. creativeheadmag.com/events
SALON SMART DUBLIN
Creative
IN THE KNOW
A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS IN THE KNOW
National Minimum Wage increases
MINIMUM RATES of pay increase on 1 January 2023, with the National Minimum Wage for people aged 20 and over rising by 80 cents to €11.30.
The Employment (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 2018 abolished training rates and simplified sub-minimum rates based solely on age. The Low Pay Commission has set an indicative National Living Wage for 2023 of €13.10 per hour.
The news comes as salons are already dealing with increased energy prices, a VAT increase, statutory sick pay, and pension contributions to add to their costs this year.
“We’ve had to think about how we’re going to survive,” said Wayne Lloyd, 2022 president of the Hair Council. “One thing we’ve done in our salon is introduce a four-day work week in January and February, as we can fit our five-day week into that time for those months while cutting costs.”
The government’s intention is to phase in the Living Wage between now and 2026 when it will become mandatory. In the interim, it will be revised annually as a benchmark for employers. This raise does not officially apply to employees registered and taking part in the National Hairdressing Apprenticeship. In all such cases the rate of pay is agreed between employer and apprentice, according to the NHA.
TALLAGHT STYLIST WINS ALFAPARF PRIZE
AMANDA HOGAN OF Ross Adams Hair & Beauty in Tallaght has scooped the top prize in the Irish final of the ALFAPARF Milano Professional Next Color GenHAIRation Contest. Accepting her title at Accademia in Dublin, Amanda will now go to the global final in Italy in October, the winner of which will cocreate one of the brand’s colour collections and have their winning colour creation put into production.
Entrants had to create a new ALFAPARF Milano Professional hair colour to win, and six candidates were selected to compete at the Irish final. The judging panel included ALFAPARF Milano Professional’s international technical educator, Vivica Davies; education manager, Beatrice Moate; Michelle Regazzoli Stone, make-up artist and influencer; and Eileen Ryan, PR consultant.
Your hands are your most important tools and may need a little extra TLC after the busy festive season. Winter-dry hands will love Algenist Genius Liquid Collagen Hand Cream. It melts into the skin quickly, nourishing as it goes thanks to active vegan collagen, alguronic acid, shea butter and glycerine. Antioxidant-rich vitamins C and E help to protect against environmental stressors. €40; spacenk.com
SIGN UP FREE TO CREATIVE HEAD
The cost of living might be rising, but we want to perk up the New Year with this unmissable offer. Sign up to a Creative HEAD Ireland subscription in January – it’s totally free! Head to creativeheadmag.com/subscribe
Salon apprentice wins national title
PATRICK GILDEA Hairdressing’s Kim Kelly has won a Generation Apprenticeship Apprentice of the Year Award. Kim, who is in her second year at the Donegal salon, was one of 12 to be chosen from 187 entrants. She received her award from Simon Harris, minister for Further and Higher Education, Research, Innovation and Science, at Dublin’s Mansion House. The government’s Generation Apprenticeship project spans a wide range of industries, including accounting, engineering, and hospitality, as well as the more recently launched National Hairdressing Apprenticeship.
ALFAPARF EXTENDS DEADLINE!
THE ALFAPARF MILANO PROFESSIONAL NEXT COLOR GENHAIRATION COMPETITION’S DEADLINE HAS BEEN EXTENDED UNTIL 31 MARCH. FIND OUT HOW TO ENTER AT NCGCONTEST.ALFAPARFMILANOPRO.COM
Everybody’s talking about… SELF STYLED/ SUNDAYS SUNDAYS
Our freelance-focused digital event series returns to a screen near you on Sunday 29 January. Offering exclusive education for freelancers, for free, SELF/STYLED Sunday is ready with a mix of business advice, brand new colour and texture service ideas, and an unmissable 2023 Trend Forecast Panel. Sign up for access now, at creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled-sundays
REVLON PROFESSIONAL SEARCHES FOR NEXT VISIONARIES
THE HUNT IS ON for Revlon Professional as the brand announces the opening of its Visionaries programme for 2023. Successful applicants will enjoy a year-long mentoring experience directed by Revlon Professional global ambassador Mark Leeson. The programme covers a wide variety of skills, from conducting presentations to photoshoots and networking. Entries close on Friday 10 February, visit visionaries.site Our Most Wanted Sustainability
SUSTAINABILITY STUDIES GREEN LIGHT
Want to try your luck at the Most Wanted and It List Awards 2023? The competition opens 1 March – sign up for updates at creativeheadmag.com
Heroes, Anne Veck and Keith Mellen, are taking part in an academic study on how SMEs can tackle climate change. Dr Katherine Sugar, a research associate at the University of Oxford and research fellow at the University of Edinburgh, spotted the winning pair through a local magazine article celebrating their MWIT victory. Keith said: “Entering awards does often require a little time, effort or cost, but the opportunities that can arise from the experience make it all worthwhile.”From K18 comes the salonexclusive Peptide Prep Pro Chelating Hair Complex, clinically proven to reduce seven types of metal and mineral build-up in just four minutes for more vibrant colour, better bounce and lashings of shine.
Salon price €99 k18hair.ie
Great Lengths has launched a Fashion Colours Collection, featuring 12 trend-inspired shades. The new palette includes two different versions of its most popular shade, silver, to provide even more options for clients. Other best-selling colours have also undergone a makeover, and all are available as 16-inch lengths in both GL Pre-Bonded and GL Tapes.
In-salon service greatlengthshair.ie
Featuring an all black, all metal housing, the Lo-Pro FX Cordless Clipper and Skeleton Trimmer from BaByliss PRO boasts an ultra-low profile design. The new low friction, lower temperature, black graphite blade makes for smooth and powerful cutting, even on longer, thicker hair.
Trimmer salon price €142.95, Clipper salon price €115 solosalonsupplies.ie
With a new bond protecting formula, new packaging and a new range, BB Bleach from ALFAPARF Milano Professional has you covered for all lifting needs. There’s Easy Lift, Free Style Lift and High Lift. In-salon service xpertprofessional.ie
Make room at the backwash – the OLAPLEX No.4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo is now available in a one-litre salon size, perfect for a powerful, deep cleanse.
Salon price £55 xpertprofessional.ie
STOCK IT!
STOCK IT!
LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES
New from extensions brand Zen, Luxury Series+ is a serious upgrade, with increased weight thanks to including healthier, younger cuticle hair as seen in the Zen Ultimate Series, for increased longevity.
In-salon service zenhair.co
Available from February, the revamped Tinta Color from Keune now includes 10 new shades, is in more sustainable packaging, and delivers an improved performance for your clients.
In-salon service capitalhairandbeauty.ie
Suede is the new six-strong colour family joining the Evolution of the color 3 range from ALFAPARF Milano Professional, with its new Senses collection introducing six looks and techniques from global creative director, Rudy Mostarda.
In-salon service xpertprofessional.ie
Great Lengths Hair Holders and Velcro
Hair Grips are must-haves for any salon working daily with extensions. The new branded tools are designed to keep your applications neat, organised and pretty for your salon, as well as your transformation pictures and videos. The grips keep sections neat and flyaways at bay.
Hair Grips salon price €4.67
Hair Holder salon price €40.28 greatlengthshair.ie
New Year, new vegan formula and new shades for iNOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The ammonia-free permanent hair colour boasts 10 shades, powered by oil for high shine colour, a comfortable scalp and up to 48 per cent more shine.
In-salon service lorealpartnershop.com/uk
COLOUR VISION
STUDY
AND SAVE
Forget the January blues – how about the January savings? The Wella Studios are once again running a January sale, offering a 20 per cent discount on all courses taking place within the month! You can check out the listings online at wella.co.uk/educationbook. Don’t worry if you miss the boat, there are still other opportunities to save. The Specialist Programmes are packages that bundle two to eight courses together, giving you a saving of 20 per cent on the individual prices, and can be booked for any time of year. No matter what you want to specialise in, there’s a programme for you. Get the Wella Education Book 2023 from your Wella Account Manager, pop into your nearest Wella Studio or download a digital copy from wella.co.uk/educationbook For more information on courses contact your nearest Wella Studio
“Clients often want the longevity of a permanent colour, but shy away from permanent colour for fear of blocky, obvious colour results. Wella Professionals Illumina Color offers the best of both worlds: up to 100 per cent grey coverage, up to three levels of lift, and its signature highshine, sheer finish that mimics the natural highs and lows in the hair. It’s definitely Wella’s most natural-looking permanent colour and is the best fit for clients who think they want semi-permanent colour with less of the upkeep.
“Illumina Color fits so well into balayage and root stretch services where coverage is needed, and pairs wonderfully with Shinefinity; you get the Illumina coverage mixed with that gorgeous high-shine finish on the ends. You can’t forget about the Opal Essence shades too; these five tones are ideal to add to your mixture when you’re looking to create the ultimate metallic finish.”
THE FACES
What Would Greg Clarke Do?
The owner of Amica Eco Hairdressing in Dublin is moving with the times to embrace diversity
I TRY TO be a futurist; every business owner knows it is important to look ahead. I walk around Castleknock and see how diverse the population of our area has become, and wonder if we’re doing all we can to bring in new clients from different backgrounds. I’ve always said the salon is an education centre and you learn a lot from your clients as well as one another, and I don’t think we should ever stop learning. Ireland has changed a lot since I started hairdressing in my 20s, and I am interested in learning how to attract and cater to potential textured-hair clients, even a little of that business at first would be something my team can build on. At Creative HEAD’s Salon Smart Dublin
WHAT MADE ME
PAMELA MORRISSEY
SOBE BROWN, CORK
@sobebrown
“I always knew I wanted to be a hairdresser. I started aged 14 and had my family’s support as well as a role model in my uncle’s girlfriend, who inspired me to get a summer job at Victor Franks in Cork. I left secondary school and, with the encouragement of an employer who believed in me, I ourished. I loved my job and was ambitious and willing to work. The time I was developing my career also played a role in what made me. In my twenties I worked in a salon on New York’s Upper East Side in the mid-
event I came to a realisation. I thought I had curly hair products to suit textured hair clients, but panel member Claire MartinKennedy pointed out that putting specialist Afro hair products in the window or on social media might draw in more clients. I realised I’d been making assumptions, or maybe listening to a brand rather than listening to people with curly hair types. I’d rather know that and change my behaviour than have my head in the sand.
All Habic and Image Skillnet members are entitled to free diversity and inclusion training from the Irish Centre for Diversity. When I first learnt it was eight sessions long, I couldn’t believe it, but when I looked into all there is to cover, I realised I needed to take it myself. Generally, I’m not afraid to make mistakes when learning about diversity. So much about running a salon is trial and error, and I’ve always welcomed that.
@amicaecohairdressing2000s, the height of the credit bubble, when there was a lot of money spent on hair services and education in what is already a rich city. I see how there were opportunities that might not be available to everyone, but I believe seizing everything you are offered – whether it’s that rst salon job, a business premises, a brand ambassadorship or fashion week and television work – and working hard will lead to great things. I didn’t have a detailed plan. My partner Niall and I planned to reconnect with family during a trip home from New York and I ended up taking some salon work and then renting a space that eventually became Sobe Brown. I don’t think you need to have a blueprint when you nd supportive role models. Give it your all every day and take opportunities as they arise – it will make you.
ALL SYSTEMS GO!
There’s a saying that “a good system shortens the path to your goal”. It’s simple: having the right systems in place is essential for running a business successfully. Need a little help in this department? Turn to Collectively Accountable.
Created by award-winning salon owner Danielle Kennedy, Collectively Accountable’s sleek diary is your ticket to success. The Salon Owners Diary helps business owners to keep track of cash flow, KPIs and trace success from month to month. Keeping track of your finances – whether that’s your projected income or unexpected costs – is crucial for ongoing success, but if you’re in need of a simplified, easy-to use system to keep everything recorded then the Salon Owners Diary is ideal.
WHAT’S INSIDE?
The Diary has two pages of analysis at the end of each week.
Page One looks at your KPIs, retail, average docket, wage costs and so on, with a 13-week average tracker so you can chart your changes.
Page Two is a cash flow analysis. Record your outgoings and track revenue and what is owed to suppliers.
For 2023, all diary purchasers will get free access to a members-only portal online with a calculations page to make it easier for you to crunch the numbers without having to manually calculate the information yourself.
Collectively Accountable has also launched a desk/wall planner with target tracker, which salon owners can use themselves for a daily nudge or to get the whole team on board to help the salon reach its targets.
HAIRPEOPLE, DUBLIN
@HAIRPEOPLE.SALON
TV presenter Jennifer Zamparelli and her long-time hairdresser Bernadette Byrnes, formerly of Oslo in Ranelagh, have opened HairPeople in a Georgian building on Dublin’s Adelaide Road. Bernadette is quick to credit interior designer Vilma Mocke with the beauty of this very feminine space, but the founders’ in uence is clear, from the bookcase of biographies to the helpyourself coffee bar and the stay-and-chat velvet window seat. “I wanted a boutique salon; a place people would feel embraced when they come in and not rushed to leave when we’re done. The marble stations have curved mirrors with warm lighting and quilted leather chairs,” says Bernadette. “The artwork is very special to me. I love Frida Kahlo, who is up there, and one of our senior stylists, Leonardo, has a painting up too. A client who is an artist has a piece on our wall as well. I came up in the kind of community-vibe salon where everyone knows your name and that’s what I want to run.”
HAIR HISTORY LESSONS
IARC.IE
You know hair, but how’s your hair history? The Coiffured is a new exhibition by artist Amanda Jane Graham exploring significant hair landmarks, from Egyptian pharaohs to Marie Antoinette. The project is a collaboration with Image Skillnet, Habic, and others, and runs from 17 January to 24 February at The Irish Architectural Archive, Dublin 2.
PHOREST SALON OWNERS SUMMIT
@PHORESTSALONSOFTWARE
Phorest Salon Software hosts its annual Salon Owners Summit at the Dublin Royal Convention Centre on 7 and 8 January. The summit offers salon owners the latest consumer and salon research insights. The event will feature a series of keynote topics, panel discussions, workshops, and plenty of networking opportunities for salon owners.
COLOURS LIKE NO OTHER
For hair health. For better sustainability. For hairstylists, their clients, and our planet. Backed by 100 years of science and 32 years of colour experience. With Tinta Colour’s scientifically proven, powerful performance, it is now in your hands to create colours like no other.
More about Tinta Colour?
Scan the QR-code or visit keune.com capitalhairandbeauty.ie keuneireland keuneireland
UNLIMITED POTENTIAL
YOUR FUTURE KNOWS NO BOUNDS WITH THE RIGHT SUPPORT. TRUST IN WELLA PROFESSIONALS’ EDUCATION OFFERINGS TO CHART A COURSE FOR YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL YEAR YET
2023 is a blank page, full of possibility spread out ahead of you. What is your focus for the year? Improving your business know-how, or tackling gaps in your skill set? Whether you are looking to take your career to the next level, or steadily grow and develop, you need the right education to get you there. Enter Wella Professionals’ 2023 Education. With some fresh new courses joining trusted favourites, there is plenty to choose from.
THE NEW TO KNOW
HERE’S JUST A TASTE OF WHAT ELSE WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS IN STORE FOR 2023…
• Expect some fresh faces joining the Wella Artists line-up of iconic hairdressers delivering first class education, including Nikki Clifford and Fergal Doyle
• Wella has expanded its most popular courses, allowing for more places and more opportunities to book balayage and Colour Craft courses
• There’s a new venue for the Edinburgh Studio, now hosted at Edinburgh College!
• A totally revamped set of business courses, giving modern and up-to-date guidance on growing your business in line with the current economic climate
SOCIAL STAR COLOUR
There are four brand new colour courses for 2023, but this combination course of colour and camera tips is set to be a winner. Learn how to create social colour trends and how to grow your following with the help of Insta-famous Wella Artists.
ADVANCED LEVEL, €275, one day
LIGHTS & TONE
Are you looking to dazzle clients with your blonding skills? Achieve the perfect blonde result every time with this masterclass in toning, so you can nail each trending shade. Toning will never feel like an afterthought again by the end of this course, as you learn how to utilise your whole toolkit for the most flattering of finishes.
ADVANCED LEVEL, €220, one day
CURL CRAFT
If you’ve been wanting to expand your knowledge on different hair types, this is the course for you. Learn the key rules and practices in colouring and cutting curly, coily or textured hair with the help of talented Wella Artists.
EXPERT LEVEL, €325, one day, with a digital prep session
CUTTING TRILOGY
A TRIO OF COURSES FOR ALL LEVELS OF EXPERTISE THAT WILL HAVE YOU CONFIDENTLY AND COMPETENTLY CUTTING MORE PRECISE AND TECHNICAL LOOKS
CUTTING START is the first step of this cutting trilogy, teaching you how to create one-length cuts, fringes and layers on long hair. ESSENTIAL LEVEL, €265, one day
Then move onto CUTTING PROGRESS for different graduation and short hair techniques. ADVANCED LEVEL, €395, two days
Finally, step up to ADVANCED CUTTING which teaches bespoke precision cutting skills to stylists who have more than five-years’ experience. EXPERT LEVEL, €375, one day
IoT ADVANCED HAIR & SCALP
If you’ve been looking to add another string to your bow, this could be the course for you. The Institute of Trichology presents an advanced course in hair and scalp health science, including how to diagnose and treat client scalp issues with NIOXIN.
ADVANCED LEVEL, €295, three days
THE PRICE IS RIGHT
There are a whopping seven new business courses to choose from for 2023. All the referrals and team spirit can’t help you if your numbers don’t add up. Simon Harris presents a day focused on the numbers; how to price your services, retail, manage your spend and ensure success in your salon’s profit margins.
ADVANCED LEVEL, €190, one day
THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EDUCATION BOOK IS AVAILABLE IN JANUARY 2023! ASK YOUR WELLA ACCOUNT MANAGER FOR A COPY, SCAN THE QR CODE, OR DOWNLOAD FROM WELLA.COM/EDUCATIONBOOK
REVOLUTIONS
THERE’S A CHALLENGING YEAR AHEAD BUT WE’RE HERE TO HELP. WE EXPLORE WHAT HAIRDRESSERS CAN IMPLEMENT TO CHANGE THE COURSE OF THEIR BUSINESS FOR THE BETTER, WHILE LOOKING AT NEW TRENDS AND THE GAME-CHANGING NAMES TO WATCH IN 2023
IF THERE’S EVER BEEN A TIME TO ENSURE YOU’RE UP-TO-SCRATCH WITH YOUR SKILLS, IT’S NOW. PLUG ANY GAPS –CREATIVE OR BUSINESS – AND OPEN A WORLD OF NEW SERVICES AND POTENTIAL REVENUE STREAMS
TOTAL TEXTURE SEASON 2
“HAVING AFRO HAIR in Ireland usually means you don’t get the luxury of going to salons. I know that 99.9 per cent of hairdressers will be unable to do my hair,” wrote RTÉ presenter Emer O’ Neill in a frank Irish Times piece last year. Perhaps your salon’s already responded by integrating more textured hair education, but if you’re keen to improve, L’Oréal Professional Products Division has created an online series to help widen access to textured hair education with Total Texture. The recent drop of its second series is now available via L’Oréal Access for free, and zeroes in on the specific needs of 4A to 4C coily locks. “Don’t be afraid to say you don’t know, and be open and humble to learn new techniques,” says Claire MartinKennedy, one of the six talents featured. lorealaccess.com
MATRIX COLOUR MASTERY
MATRIX HAS relaunched its Colour Mastery course – its highest level of colour qualification – for passionate and dedicated colourists to take their skills to another level. The prestigious course has been remastered for a new generation, with a combination of virtual and in-person learning. It involves three online days of education, followed by six face-to-face training days. lorealaccess.com
A BUSINESS SUITE BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS
WELLA PROFESSIONALS has introduced a brand-new slate of business courses for the coming year, refreshed for current and future needs.
From Squad Goals, the ultimate guide to a motivated and committed team; to Influence Your Colour Business, which teaches you how to master time management strategy, pricing and more to run a stellar colour column; there’s something for everyone. education.wella.com
ALL ABOUT… COLOURING AFRO HAIR
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL has tapped ambassador Randolph Gray to lead a oneday course designed to inspire confidence and empower colourists with the skills and know-how required to colour Afro hair. From classic to contemporary looks as well as product selection, the seminar consists of demonstrations and the chance to get hands-on. You’ll walk away with the confidence to achieve trending and timeless colour for both existing and potential clients. schwarzkopfpro.com
MOST WANTED EDUCATION EXPERT LEE STAFFORD SHARES HIS TOP THREE TIPS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF TRAINING
1 Don’t ever turn up not knowing who your educator is going to be. Carefully research the person you want to learn from and book them specifically.
2 Even though it can be daunting sometimes, go for a front row seat. And if you still can’t see, stand up and stand right next to the educator for a bird’s eye view.
3 You’re investing time and money to be there so get the most out of it by asking question after question. Educators love this as it makes their job easier and the whole experience more entertaining and impactful for everybody.
as easier
Resolutions REVOLUTIONS &
SWAP SHOP
IRISH HAIRDRESSING IS competitive, but bonding with other salon owners gives you a support system in tough times, as well as access to some of the best skills sets in the country. Samantha Byrne and The Hair Space’s Laura Murphy, both major talents in up-styling and textured hairdressing respectively, hit it off at the IHF’s Business Hub event in 2020 and have decided to travel between Galway and Carlow this month for their first educational skills swap. “Hair brands provide amazing educational support but there’s nothing like speaking to a fellow salon owner, someone who knows your journey and can share knowledge you don’t have,” says Samantha, who owns Vanilla Hair Design in Tullow. “I’m so passionate about up-styling and love sharing what I know. I truly believe I can teach anyone to do it, even in a pressured or competitive situation. I’m quite new to the salon education scene and am learning so much about course designing from my work with ALFAPARF Milano Professional. Still, I knew Laura had something I wanted, and I’ve seen a gap in the market for a competition-level up-styling course for a while. I think swapping skills is something we should all consider to cope with rising costs.”
Laura adds: “I also recommend networking events like Creative HEAD’s Salon Smart for meeting hairdressers who have skill sets that interest you. It’s far more personable than meeting online and, if you’re focused on education, you can save money by swapping your expertise with the added benefit of knowing you and your contact get along.”
How we upskilled
WAYNE LLOYD, WAYNE LLOYD HAIR, BALLYDEHOB“WITH PRICES on the rise, clients are looking for value for money, which means impeccable treatment in the salon but also walking out looking like they’ve invested in their hair. Glass finishes and the best technical cutting look expensive, and I always encourage an appetite for learning more about what we do. In the past year I’ve done educational swaps with fellow salon owners Bridget Haren and Sean Taaffe to level up my team’s cutting and up-styling. One of my senior stylists recently got her colour masters from Accademia Dublin. I recommend my teams experience ALFAPARF Milano Professional Next Generation and Kevin Murphy colour and bridal courses. A salon’s culture is always set by management, and I know I have more to learn. I’ve booked a one-to-one course with Jean-Baptiste Mazella that includes avant-garde cutting. If you’re staying on top of your education and providing the best client experience, you can feel confident in charging what you’re worth.”
GOING GREEN
GETTING GREENER can seem daunting, but as Belfast salon owner Andrew Mulvenna said at Salon Smart Dublin in November, the most important thing to do is to start. There is technology geared towards making this easier. The government’s efforts to get Ireland carbon-neutral by 2050 include climatetoolkit4business.gov.ie, a service that allows small businesses to get an estimate of their carbon footprint and a bespoke action plan to reduce it. Each plan includes clear and practical instructions and highlights the relevant help that is available from the government, through agencies such as your Local Enterprise Office and the Sustainable Energy Authority of Ireland.
NOT HARDER
“We invested in Vish to measure our colour and track the waste, so that when we see our client next time we know the exact amount they need. I have also changed my accounting software, saving me 20 per cent per month, and I’m currently looking into changing energy supplier.”
CALLY BORG, CALLY HAIR SALONLET THEM COME TO YOU
WHILE MANY software brands help you to keep on top of all your data, some also help you to cast a wider net for potential clients. The Fresha marketplace allows new and returning customers to find you and book into your empty slots with just a few clicks. Easy peasy! “The Fresha Marketplace is loved by salons and clients alike,” says Leith Matthews, Fresha’s head of PR, partnerships and events. “Salons on the Marketplace attract new clients and drive greater revenues. Our seamless ‘confirm with card’ feature also means that no-shows are a thing of the past.”
MAKE PAYING EASY
SMOOTHER PROCESSES really help you to focus on the client experience and service. Phorest’s new PhorestPay Card Terminal is ideal; it seamlessly integrates in-salon payments together with the rest of the Phorest platform features. It’s accurate and its time-saving efficiency helps to eliminate human error and make the payment experience a breeze. Pamela Curran of Renaissance Hair & Beauty Bar in Meath, says: “All our payments are now synced, and having a fully integrated system means there are no errors; everything is so straightforward.”
FIGURE IT OUT
IF YOUR ACCOUNTS and figures make you break out in hives then you need the help of Collectively Accountable. Its brilliant 2023 Salon Owners Diary and desk planner helps you stay on top of your finances with simple, clear layouts. For 2023 all diary purchasers will get free access to a membersonly portal with calculating tools. collectivelyaccountable.com
Trend to watch
WABI-SABI
IN SOME OF the coolest new salon interiors, a particular phrase keeps appearing: WabiSabi. “This philosophy encompasses much more than just aesthetics. It’s founded on a life philosophy that acknowledges nothing lasts forever, nothing is fully completed, and nothing is perfect,” says Dublin interiors expert Vilma Mocke. “The ideals of Wabi-Sabi honour the time-worn process which make it so authentic and unique. It’s about serenity and tranquillity, which produces a pleasant and serene atmosphere and influences human behaviour. Creating a sense of calm aids focus, helping staff to be more productive. Incorporate natural materials and textures, handcrafted ceramics, and worn surfaces to create an inviting atmosphere.
“Wabi-Sabi is about remembering that people live and work in various ways but all share the same intention to keep their mental wellness in the greatest possible shape, so we can adopt not only aesthetics of it but also the philosophy.”
Get the look with Ayala, exclusively stocked in Ireland by Gainfort. Ayala’s furniture is custom-built and available in an wide range of trend-appropriate styles, with numerous laminate and fabric options.
Trend to watch
QUENCHED HAIR
FROM BALMAIN to Dries Van Noten, the fashion week catwalks have been awash with wet look hair. “One of the four looks at Christopher Kane S/S23 came from the designer’s vision of a girl who got caught in the rain the day after having her hair done and attending a party,” says Pamela Morrissey, Bumble and bumble Irish ambassador and owner of Sobe Brown in Cork. It doesn’t have to be as extreme as what your clients see on the catwalk though, you can share tips on sculpted styles, such as ultra-sleek ponytails, using Bumble’s Bb. Gel.
all hair types, from straight to waves and curls to coils. It was designed to deliver solid, foundational skills needed to identify, care for, cut, style and colour all hair textures, but that was just the beginning. Total Texture Season 2 is designed to take those core skills further by building knowledge and confidence –specifically in coily hair types 4A to 4C.
CHARLOTTE MENSAH
*Research carried out by Veloxx Insights, April 2021 on 402 UK&I hairdressers
No head of hair is ever the same, and every client expects – and deserves – your full ability. As a hairdresser it is so important to be able to welcome and work with all hair textures and never have to turn away a client.
Hair types 4A to 4C have been identi ed as one of the areas where stylists have the least con dence,* so why not take this next step to build knowledge, grow your skill set and welcome
new clients with this series of Total Texture. Available in three different formats including audio, video and hands-on in the L’Oréal Academy.
If you’re new to working with coily hair types 4A to 4C or you’re looking to hone your existing techniques, this addition to the Total Texture series is the next natural step on your journey to building your con dence and ability to cater to all clients.
WATCH AND LEARN
THIS TRIO OF VIDEOS, AVAILABLE VIA L’ORÉAL ACCESS, WILL SHOW YOU SOME OF THE KEY SKILLS YOU’LL NEED TO HONE WHEN WORKING WITH COILY HAIR
KNOWING YOUR TOOLS
Abigail Butler from Strictly Xtended takes you through the essential tools you’ll need in your kit when working with your coily hair clients.
EMBRACING THE NATURAL
Build your con dence with Claire Martin-Kennedy from GRO London as she shares her top tips and go-to techniques when ‘embracing the natural’, including the LOC method and the Wash & Go.
THE IMPORTANCE OF CONSULTATION
Join Abigail and Claire as they discuss the importance of conducting a consultation and the questions you should be asking your clients.
LISTEN IN
THESE AUDIO LEARNING SESSIONS WILL HELP TO DEVELOP AND BROADEN YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF COILY HAIR TYPES
BUILDING BUSINESS WITH TEXTURE: CHARLOTTE’S STORY
Listen to Charlotte Mensah from The Hair Lounge share her incredible journey to becoming a successful woman in business.
GROWING YOUR SKILLS WITH TEXTURE
Film and TV hairstylist Nicole Iroh explains how she has got to where she is today, recognising the need to have a wider skill set early in her career.
THE TRANSITION: LET’S TALK ABOUT THE CHOP
Build con dence in your conversations with clients and how to style a nished look with industry pro Subrina Kidd from Subrina Kidd Hair and her client, Lisa.
TEXTURE EQUALITY
Lisa Farrall – top stylist, campaigner and Most Wanted Texture Expert 2022 –discusses texture equality and how we can continue to diversify salon services.
ANSWER THE CALL
Total Texture has been designed to be as accessible as possible, for stylists across the UK and Ireland.
Start with the foundational skills provided in Season 1: The Science & Identi cation of All Hair Types. Then move on to Total Texture Season 2: Coily Hair Types 4A to 4C.
The series is suitable for all hairdressers who wish to expand their skills and knowledge with texture.
If you’re looking to diversify your salon services, open the door to more career opportunities and grow your client base, then what are you waiting for? It’s time to get started!
VISIT L’ORÉAL ACCESS TO DELVE INTO TOTAL TEXTURE SEASON 1 AND SEASON 2. SCAN THE QR CODE TO GET STARTED NOW
SHINY AND NEW
LOOKING TO GET AHEAD OF 2023 TRENDS? WHEN IT COMES TO JAW-DROPPING INTERIORS, GAINFORT
SALON DESIGN KNOWS EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED
If you’re looking to give your space a bit of a makeover in the New Year, you may be picturing Pinterest boards and too many tabs open on your browser.
It can be overwhelming to bring a vision together – which is where Gainfort Salon Design can help.
Gainfort has partnered with some of the world’s leading salon suppliers and designers to help you reimagine the potential of your space. Whether you’re looking to tap into emerging trends or to create a timelessly chic vibe, the Gainfort team’s expertise is on hand to help you.
MARRYING FORM AND FUNCTION
Ensuring your salon has a good ow and is t for purpose is a key tenet of Gainfort Salon Design. You could pick the most beautiful furniture and xtures only for them to fail to mesh together.
Taking in space and logistics, as well as the overall vibe and nal touches, Gainfort designers have decades of experience to draw on for making eye-catching salons.
From the rst plan to the completion of a full re t, Gainfort’s attention to detail, exclusive brands and innovative ideas will help you to become a standout salon in your area. No project is too small and no design is too grand – make your dream reality with Gainfort.
Gainfort is the exclusive distributor of some of the world’s best salon furniture. Its latest addition, Ayala salon furniture, is known for its custom-built ttings that effortlessly blend service with style. There are plenty of eye-catching pieces available in both laminate and fabric options, so you’ll be sure to nd something beautiful that ts your salon vibe.
Ayala joins the likes of Maletti and Olymp in Gainfort’s portfolio, giving you that full-service experience that you simply can’t get anywhere else.
POSITIVE VIBES AT DUBLIN 2022
IRISH SALON AND BARBER SHOP OWNERS ARE RIDING A ROLLERCOASTER OF INDUSTRY CHANGE BUT RESPONDING WITH BOLD IDEAS, POSITIVE THINKING, AND PRAGMATIC VIEWS ON PRICING, AS SALON SMART DISCOVERED WHEN IT RETURNED TO DUBLIN AFTER A THREE-YEAR HIATUS
Salon Smart – Creative HEAD’s flagship business networking event presented in association with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris – returned to Dublin to discover a hairdressing landscape almost unrecognisable since our last visit in 2019.
Increased self-employment; a more focused eye on work/life balance; rising energy costs; changing consumer trends as many clients continue to work from home (Tuesday is the new Saturday); a boom in young entrepreneurship in hair and beauty but a battle to find the talent salons need…
Everything has changed and continues to change. But what a fantastic response from Irish hair business owners! From the presenters onstage we saw a focus on recruitment and retention, fresh thinking on team spirit and salon culture and a desire to improve and grow, whether by acquiring textured hair skills or embracing sustainable practices within the business.
And on the floor, an audience that was fully engaged, involved and sharing ideas of their own. It was impressive, grown-up, positive stuff, and here are all the best bits…
A DEEP APPRECIATION OF TEAM
The importance of teams and the need to keep them happy (and loyal) was a recurring theme. Post-Covid, employers are creating packages tailored to individual staff needs, whether that’s more flexible hours to achieve a better work/life balance, or financial packages that reinforce the positive aspects of employment. Hellen Ward’s Apprentice Travel Subsidy Scheme –where trainees are reimbursed a percentage of travel costs in return for good attendance – is proving popular among young workers and their parents.
At Carla Rose McQuillan’s The Space, team bonding events and Friday morning rituals –where everyone meets for breakfast and a chat ahead of the working day – ensure staff feel appreciated. But a word of caution came from Patrick Gildea of Patrick Gildea Hairdressing in Letterkenny: “People are frightened to say no to staff, but there is a line that shouldn’t be crossed. We’re running a business, after all. We need basic foundations in place, where we all agree that this is what we do – and beyond that, well, we can have a discussion.”
HEART IS SOMETIMES MORE IMPORTANT THAN HEAD
Achieving a better work/life balance is the new holy grail of hairdressing – and that applied to business owners, as well as their teams. Lockdown reminded multi awardwinning Wildflower owner Danielle Garner of what it means to be a human being; now she actively builds family time into her schedule, rather than filling gaps with extra tasks or creative projects. She also found that being supportive of her 23-strong workforce, rather than focusing always on working harder and longer, allows them to achieve greater results. “Our ‘why’ is the pursuit of happiness in the workplace,” she says.
Meanwhile, Michelle Grimes described creating her ‘heart-led’ business, the Maven Studio co-working space in Dublin, as a response to seeing talented stylists quit the industry due to burnout. She has no sense of ego about being a business owner herself; rather, she actively enjoys “being in service”, ensuring everyone who works in Maven is fully supported to run their own business well and successfully.
delegate pr file
“I’m busy building a team of textured hair specialists and the panel debate on Texture Equality was of particular interest to me. It’s great that these conversations are happening. People go to the salon to feel good, but clients with curly, coily or Afro hair often feel uncomfortable or unwelcome. I feel I need to do something about it.”
THINK DIFFERENTLY ABOUT EDUCATION
“Hairdressers are stupid,” was the provocative slide in educator and three-time L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner Conor James Doyle’s fascinating presentation on why education needs to be approached through the lens of our industry’s specific (but largely overlooked) needs. Neurodiversity, an overarching term for learning difficulties or differences, is prevalent among hairdressers, resulting in various triggers that deter or hinder future learning and progression.
Doyle’s informal study of 1,343 hairdressers revealed that more than 55 per cent had either been diagnosed with, or related with, a neurodiversity such as dyslexia, autism or ADHD. While this often led to negative experiences at school (51 per cent) and anxiety around learning (also 51 per cent), neurodiversity is also closely linked to strengths such as problem-solving, crisis management and creative thinking – skills that emphasise the advantages of diversity and which should be celebrated.
Doyle argued that awareness of the obstacles around teaching hairdressers with neurodiversity can create a better structure for learning. What’s key is an injection of dopamine into lessons (“rocket fuel for focus”) – lots of practical tasks coupled with regular breaks – plus a ‘safe space’ approach, where students are encouraged to ask questions and share ideas, and teachers are not afraid to admit mistakes.
The presentation included some clever practical demonstrations in how this collaborative approach can improve learning. The audience was presented with some memory tests. When invited simply to observe, the success rate was just 10 per cent, but it rose to 90 per cent when shared learning techniques were involved.
Concluded Doyle: “We need to take more time to familiarise ourselves with the needs of our industry, and to create spaces for students to transition to ‘active contributors’ in their continued learning. Only then can we generate new spaces to allow true collaborative learning to take place.”
SPECIALISATION IS IMPERATIVE
Hellen Ward argued that focusing on a specific skill, rather than being a Jack-of-all-trades, is important for both staff and the business. Creating an area of expertise not only means team members can charge higher prices, but it also ensures clients see multiple team members on every visit – for cut, colour, nails and so on – meaning they’re more likely to stay loyal to the salon, even if their favourite stylist leaves.
Salons across Ireland are upskilling in textured and curly hair in order to grow their client base and, therefore, their business. An expert panel, including Marco Dias, cLHAIR founder Claire Martin-Kennedy, and owner of The Hair Space in Galway, Laura Murphy, delivered plenty of insight into timings and prices, and addressed the fear many feel about moving into this sector. “Be humble and open enough to shadow a texture specialist, and make sure you practise on blocks,” advised Claire.
RAFAEL MULLER DOS SANTOS, BARBER AT MEN’S GROOMING IRELAND, DUBLIN
“I want to improve my work and to understand the culture in Irish hairdressing a bit more. I’m from Brazil and the expansion in barbering has already happened back home, so I feel like I can really be of value here.
I’m loving Salon Smart Dublin –every session has been brilliant.”
delegate pr file
SLIGO
“We love Salon Smart! We went to the London event before because chair renting was a big topic and we wanted to see what people thought about it. The whole thing was so useful, we were hooked and now we attend Salon Smart whenever we can. We just love the honesty of it all – it’s so real.”
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT
Lockdown, it turns out, wasn’t all bad. For Maynooth salon owner Lorraine Naughton of OB1 Hair it was an opportunity to research sustainability practices and rethink the way she was going to run her salon business.
“The biggest threat to the world is that we think someone else is going to save it,” said Lorraine, whose commitment to sustainability has not only resulted in a healthier space for staff and clients, but also zero waste being sent to land ll. For Lorraine, sustainability is a commercial imperative too, arguing that green-minded clients of all ages are actively seeking out her business and happy to pay the €2 ‘green fee’ she adds to every bill – all proceeds being donated to charity.
Lorraine was part of a sustainability panel that discussed how the hairdressing industry is tackling the challenges posed by climate change. Belfast salon owner Andrew Mulvenna began his journey in 2021 with a ‘Green Commitment’ that includes renewable energy, biodegradable and compostable hair towels and capes, waterreducing policies and even bamboo toilet rolls. “It’s important to do your research but it’s also very easy to get overwhelmed or obsessed,” he said. “My advice is to make a list so that you can break it all down and tackle one thing at a time.” He’s also appointed a sustainability manager in his salon to research best options and ensure best practice.
PRICES WILL RISE IN 2023 ALONG WITH
CLIENT EXPECTATIONS
Rising energy costs, the introduction of compulsory pensions and an impending hike in VAT mean prices are likely to rise across the board in Ireland. And although it was generally felt that there would be public sympathy for such a move, it was also agreed that clients would be looking for an incredible in-salon experience in return. Prior to social media, computers and even the humble typewriter, people told each other stories, said Monica Teodoro of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. Now is the time to tell your clients the story of what you, as a business, are all about. It’s about being real, authentic and focusing on what makes you unique.
Kevin Bodenham, owner of Moyo Hair & Beauty in Dublin, agreed that taking the rst step is often the most dif cult part of the journey to sustainability. “You have to do as much as you can, otherwise you’d never start,” he said, pointing to a slide about the Great Paci c Garbage Patch, an island of oating plastic rubbish three-times the size of France that kills thousands of marine animals every year. What an incentive to start dealing properly with your salon waste…
FIVE STAR
CELEBRATING 50 YEARS IN BUSINESS, ROBERT CHAMBERS HAIRDRESSING AND ITS LONG-TIME PARTNER WELLA PROFESSIONALS SHOW WHAT ONE ICON AND A GLOBAL BRAND CAN ACHIEVE WHEN THEY COLLABORATE
In 1973 hairdressing hero Robert Chambers opened his iconic salon. Fast forward to the present day and the Robert Chambers Hairdressing salon on Dublin’s Grafton Street is now turning 50. Wella Professionals has been by its side every step of the way.
To mark an incredible ve-decade strong relationship, the Robert Chambers team collaborated with long-standing partner Wella Professionals on an inspirational shoot to celebrate their bond and to showcase the jaw-dropping artistic results you see when a creative icon and its product manufacturer are in perfect sync.
Tamar Chambers is the salon’s artistic director and a previous Wella TrendVision Award winner, as well as a Wella International TrendVision Award judge. She wanted to celebrate the 50-year anniversary in style, with maximum colour and creativity. “Robert Chambers has been working with Wella for 50 years and we wanted to mark the occasion with a photoshoot and celebrate our collaboration through the years,” she explains.
Indeed, with more than 140 years of professional excellence under its belt, Wella Professionals has been – and continues to be – the partner of choice for the Robert Chambers team, incorporating Lunatic Fringe Hairdressing, allowing generations of creative stylists and colourists to thrill clients
and unleash their own unique artistry. Using the exceptional Wella Professionals colour ranges Koleston Perfect, Blondor, Color Touch, Color Fresh Create, Illumina and Shine nity, the squad was armed with the most cutting-edge professional colour to illustrate just what they are capable of, from everyday luxury to bold and beautiful, headturning vivids. The shoot shows just why Robert Chambers is an iconic hairdressing brand that is trusted to steer the next generation of Irish talent to exceptional futures.
The Academy @ Robert Chambers, Ireland’s rst hairdressing academy, opened in 1982 and continues to upskill hairdressers from across the country. “We have used Wella Professionals in our academy to train all of our team, past and present,” adds Tamar, “many of whom have gone on to open their own salons with Wella!”
The team includes multiple Master Colour Experts – Wella’s highest colour quali cation that takes colourists on an in-depth colour education journey. This has resulted in an elite team of colourists who are always at the heart of the business. Fifty years in and there are no signs of slowing down. More clients, more up-andcoming talent, more education, more exceptional inspiration through Robert Chambers. The future looks bright with Wella Professionals…
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT HOW A LONG-STANDING RELATIONSHIP WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN ENRICH YOUR SALON? VISIT WELLA.CO.UK. INTERESTED IN EDUCATION WITH THE ACADEMY @ ROBERT CHAMBERS? CONTACT ROBERTCHAMBERSACADEMY.IE
“WE ARE THRILLED TO CONGRATULATE ROBERT CHAMBERS ON 50 YEARS IN THE HAIRDRESSING BUSINESS – IT IS A TESTAMENT TO ITS STANDING IN THE COMMUNITY, ITS FOCUS ON EDUCATION, AND THE TEAM’S SKILLS AND ARTISTIC TALENT. WE ARE DELIGHTED TO BE THEIR PARTNER OF CHOICE AND WISH THE TEAM MANY MORE YEARS OF SUCCESS” TATIANA SUVOROVA, SENIOR SALES AND EDUCATION DIRECTOR, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
DIAMOND LIFE
SCENE
THE EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT
COTERIE LONDON
AS PEOPLE’S PERCEPTION and expectations of work and the workplace shift, so the industry must shift with them. In front of a packed-out audience in east London, Creative HEAD – in association with JOICO – assembled a panel of industry taste-shapers for the final Coterie gathering of the year to discuss what’s new, what’s coming next, and the opportunities we can create out of change. Expertly moderated by Creative HEAD’s editorial director, Amanda Nottage, the lively debate covered everything from how to attract new youngsters into hairdressing to how we must adapt our approach to training to suit Gen Z, with social media running as a thread through most of the discussions. One thing everyone agreed on: there is no longer a dictionary definition for hairdresser or barber – we’re far too multi-functional for that. Everyone left buzzing about the changes they could be making, and with a generous gift from JOICO, too.
THE PANEL
Jay Birmingham, session artist
Jack Mead and Lydia Wolfe, owners, Jack & The Wolfe
Karrie Fitzmaurice, owner, Kit Studios
Georgia Freeman, The It List Rising Star 2022 and senior stylist, Q Cut Hair & Beauty
Ky Wilson, owner, The Social
Mike O’Gorman and Lewis Stanford, founders, The Rubicon
THE LAST WORD ON…
THE LAST WORD ON…
Nutrition
LUNCH HOURS? MANY HAIRDRESSERS DON’T KNOW THEM. SO HOW CAN WE ENSURE BUSY STYLISTS ARE GETTING THE RIGHT FUEL FOR THEIR WORKING DAY?
COFFEE AND HARIBO can be useful energy fixes at work, but if you are keen to have your team make healthy choices this year, the productivity benefits may prove more impressive. “People with enough time to eat healthy food options will make fewer mistakes, have more energy, and be happier at work,” says Co. Meath-based dietitian Sonja Lynch. “It starts with breakfast. At work you can offer porridge pots and raw nuts, anything that is high in fibre and protein will set them up for a good day. Plain yoghurt is a great fermented food option most Irish people are open to eating and supports a healthy gut. Fresh fruit, especially berries, will expire more quickly, but are easy to eat on the go. That said, not giving people enough time to eat – sat down and without having to talk – is something we know can cause digestive issues, so that’s something to consider when organising breaks. Even allowing people out for a walk afterwards can aid their digestion.”
Fluid loss may be higher in a warm salon than in the average office. “This doesn’t mean staff shouldn’t have their coffee,” says Dublin-based dietitian Orla Walsh. “Coffee is somewhat hydrating. However, I recommend starting the day with at least 500ml of water and continuing to top up regularly.”
If breaks are irregular, she says to keep protein and fibre sources available to sustain energy. “These are the foods responsible for making us feel full, replenishing cells, and helping to stave off cravings. Meal replacement cereal bars can be easy and cheap to supply at work but are also processed and can be high in sugar, which leads to energy crashes such as what you’d experience after having a biscuit.”
Supplements may not be appropriate to distribute at work, but you can share information. “Everyone should be taking 10mcg of vitamin D daily, at least from now until St Patrick’s Day,” says Orla, due to the lack of sunlight hours. “Women
of childbearing age may not know how important it is to take extra folic acid, as this is key to healthy foetal development during the early weeks of pregnancy, when many women don’t even know they’ve conceived. It is hard to get enough of it through food.”
It can be tough to permit yourself time to mull over food when you feel stressed, but you may be able to alleviate it in others by observing when they snack impulsively. “There’s no such thing as the perfect diet,” says Dublin dietitian Ciara Flood, a counsellor in Intuitive Eating. “Eating intuitively is a self-care approach to your diet. It involves not judging any foods as ‘good’ or ‘bad’ –the language is important, food is morally neutral! – but instead listening to your body, understanding what it really wants, and acting accordingly. If you see stylists using food to soothe stress or cope with a lack of sleep, they may have needs that aren’t being met.” As an employer, you can go beyond providing healthy snacks to help them manage these responses. Changing staff schedules or tasks, introducing yoga classes, or simply having a supportive chat can turn their mood around.