Creative HEAD UK February 24

£4.50 FEBRUARY 2024

In print•online•everywhere!

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1) Versus ghd original. Results measured by shine on brunette hair compared with naturally dried, lab test. 2) Technical test in a lab on brunette hair, measured versus naturally dried hair. 3) Technical test in a lab on frizzy hair, versus naturally dried hair. 4) Versus competitor working at 235˚C. 5) Consumer testing January 2022, 86 per cent of 142 consumers agreed their style lasted 24 hours after styling with ghd chronos.

British body positivity advocate, model and modern goddess Charli Howard, stars as the global hair and face of ghd chronos, embodying the power and mystical allure of ghd chronos

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IT’S TIME FOR

CHRONOS Introducing the holy grail of hairstyling, from the divine ghd

It’s the answer to all your styling prayers – a beauty tech innovation that’s also the most advanced styler ever from ghd. Brand new chronos is a gamechanger, featuring breakthrough HD motionresponsive technology that delivers three-times faster styling,1 up to 85 per cent more shine,2 two-times less frizz,3 up to three-times more breakage protection4 and results that last 24 hours.5 Oh yes, chronos is a thing of wonder.

#ghdchronos

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IN GHD WE TRUST Always at the forefront of styling technology, ghd has revealed its most advanced styler ever, ghd chronos. It features breakthrough HD motion-responsive technology that uses an intelligent algorithm to identify how the tool is being used, optimising heat and power delivery to ensure ultimate performance. As you work, the technology identifies your styling motions and reacts by delivering the right amount of power into the plates to maintain an optimum temperature of 185˚C to a higher level of precision than ever before. Better heat consistency delivers superior results, whether you’re straightening or curling, styling fast or slow, or taking small or large sections.

Says ghd chief executive, Jeroen Temmerman: “At ghd we are dedicated to developing pioneering technologies and creating the best-in-class products that tackle consumer and professional stylist needs. Our latest beauty-tech breakthrough, ghd chronos, is a momentous launch for ghd as it represents the pinnacle of more than 22 years of understanding and mastering heat styling. Revolutionising the styler category, ghd chronos is the most advanced styler in the ghd award-winning styler portfolio, featuring HD technology to deliver the best performance.”

Adds ghd’s global director of education, Dafydd Thomas: “Breakthrough high-definition technology allows ghd chronos to flawlessly monitor styler plate temperature, preserving the perfect styling temperature of 185˚C. I can’t wait for everyone to discover ghd chronos and the power to unlock ultra-defined, glossier waves and glass-like straights. It has allowed me to raise my hair game with unparalleled and impeccable results.”

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WHY WORSHIP GHD CHRONOS? HD motion-responsive technology. Two-times more responsive1 for unparalleled heat monitoring accuracy and three-times faster styling.2 Latest generation ceramic heater. Ensures optimal heat delivery into the plates for onestroke HD styling results that last 24 hours.3 Ultra-gloss floating plates.

For easy-glide, one-stroke styling with up to 85 per cent more shine.4 Re-engineered wishbone hinge and smooth rounded barrel.

For ultimate professional creativity, to craft high-definition curls and waves with a tilt of the hand.

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1) Versus ghd platinum+. 2) Versus ghd original. Results measured by shine on brunette hair compared with naturally dried, lab test.

3) Consumer testing January 2022, 86 per cent of 142 consumers agreed their style lasted 24 hours after styling with ghd chronos. 4) Technical test in a lab on brunette hair, measured versus naturally dried hair.

It’s time to take your styling services and retail to the next level with ghd chronos.

To discover more, contact your local ghd business development manager, or call 01924 423 400

@ghdhair

@ghdhairpro

#ghdchronos

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No.1 SALON COLOUR BRAND IN THE

WORLD

*

COLOR

SAME ICONIC FORMULA BRAND NEW LOOK Wella Professionals most luminous permanent colour ✔ Violet based ✔ Up to 100% grey coverage ✔ Sheer and expensive looking results

✔ Contains metal purifier technology

SHOP NOW *Excluding Special Blonde **Wella Company is a member of the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety. ***Tubes: 95% post-consumer recycled aluminum and 5% post-industry recycled aluminum. Caps: Post-Consumer Recycled PP (polypropylene) *Based on sales in 22 markets representing 85% of the global professional hair care sales. Source: Kline Salon Haircare 2021, based on value sales collected in local currencies

You asked for quiet, we listened.

We took time talking to professionals to help create the ultimate dryer. Experience exceptional speed and style with BaBylissPRO Falco. Engineered to be 2 x quieter and with a brilliantly lightweight design for easy handling. Powered by an advanced digital motor for a stronger, faster, more precise air flow. With a large newly designed diffuser for optimal frizz-controlled drying of wavy, curly and coily hair, and two slim concentrator nozzles, Falco is perfect for all your hair work. So whatever look you’re creating, experience superior drying designed for professionals.

EDITOR’S LETTER 52

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44 JOIN US!

There’s just one month to go until the launch of this year’s Most Wanted and It List awards, and a fresh set of coveted trophies awaits.

In the words of Virgin impresario Richard Branson, “business From killing it behind the opportunities are like buses, there’s always another one coming”. chair to forging a fierce At a time when lots of hair businesses have just waved goodbye freelance career, whatever to a challenging 2023, I like the positivity of that little nugget from your success story, YOU Dickie B. And with that in mind, this issue is dedicated to business deserve to be recognised.

– what’s coming next for salon owners? We’ve got the inside track on So, mark 1 March in your plans from five of them, with aims to boost customer loyalty, up team calendar – and get ready skills, expand their locations and launch new revenue streams, from for MWIT! Meanwhile, for page 28. We also take an exclusive look around the stunning new Allertons salon and barber shop flagship location, as founder Nicholas Nicola shares his approach to running owners and managers, a beauty business on today’s high street (page 34). If you want even more insight give your business a boost and inspiration for your business, you can book your place at Salon Smart 2024 with a ticket to Salon – turn to page 44 to find out more. But let’s not forget our creative juices need Smart, our annual business stimulating too, so check out my chat with Most Wanted Hair Icon Duffy as networking event. Taking place he talks about his life in session, (page 46). And we have some fresh work in London on 18 March and with a raw edge from Amelia Evans at HARE & BONE (page 52) to sink jam-packed with sessions on our teeth into also. Ooh, where to start? hot topics – burnout, growing profit, diversification and so much more – there’ll be advice, Amanda Nottage ideas, and new industry insight Editorial director aplenty. Come and be inspired!

See page 44 for details. creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

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February WHAT’S INSIDE

OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

CONOR JAMES DOYLE CONOR JAMES EDUCATION

DANIELLE GARNER WILDFLOWER

EXAUCÉ IMBO EXSTUDIO

FRAZER WALLACE THE HAUS STUDIO

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ON THE COVER

Hair by Dafydd Thomas, global director of education for ghd.

Make-up by Luciano Chiarello.

Styling by Mariaelena Morelli.

Photography by Edwin Freyer.

YOUR BUSINESS GRACE DALGLEISH BILLI CURRIE

HALLEY BRISKER SESSION STYLIST

LORRAINE McNAUGHTON OB-1 HAIR

MICHELLE SULTAN HYPE COIFFURE

SAMANTHA CUSICK SAMANTHA CUSICK LONDON AND STAˉ STUDIOS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR AMANDA NOTTAGE

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

DIGITAL DESIGNER DANIEL PEACE

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

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TARIQ HOWES AVENUE MALE GROOMING

What’s next in 2024 in your salon? We talk to salon owners and entrepreneurs about their plans for the coming year

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SCENE

Phorest Salon Owners Summit brings big names to Dublin, and Headmasters celebrates a year of success

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

PUBLISHER

KELSEY DRING

AOIFE CONNELL LAURA TUCKER

JENNY BROOKS

JOANNA ANDERSEN

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, 15 Priestpopple, Hexham, NE46 1PH 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

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AVAILABLE

NATIONWIDE

IN THE KNOW A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS

New VAT study considers sliding scales of thresholds and rates

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is behind a new study investigating the introduction of sliding scales of VAT thresholds that would be cost-neutral to HM Treasury.

An independent discussion paper by Pragmatix Advisory commissioned by the NHBF, entitled Avoiding the cliff edge: considering possible options for a VAT threshold smoothing mechanism, sets out possible options for the future. Currently, the threshold when businesses start paying 20 per cent VAT is set at £85,000, which is one of the highest thresholds in Europe.

The report illustrates the current landscape as a “cliff edge” for businesses at the threshold. Because there is no gradual increase to the £85,000 mark, many businesses find the change to paying VAT too challenging. Particularly in the hair and beauty industry, it is suspected that many deliberately stay under the VAT threshold, with some intentionally using tax avoidance measures, such as “cash in hand” payments. This potentially reduces overall economic activity for businesses and reduced tax revenues for the Treasury.

Estimates included in the report suggest an additional £25.2 billion in turnover would be declared through applying different options of thresholds and rates. This would return an additional £2.2 billion in VAT revenue to HM Treasury, with at least £33m coming from the hair and beauty sector.

According to the NHBF, 86 per cent of hair and beauty businesses supported a graduated approach towards VAT. The report identifies “smoothing mechanisms” to change the current VAT system to benefit businesses, encouraging growth and expansion and potentially increasing tax revenues. These include schemes where the VAT threshold would be lower (e.g. at £65,000) and payments would start from a lower rate.

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PLAN IT! Naomi V&A Museum

ONE OF THE OG supermodels, Naomi Campbell’s 40-year career in fashion is being celebrated with a major exhibition at the V&A this June, and tickets are on sale now. Scouted in Covent Garden aged just 15, she became the first Black model to feature on the cover of Vogue France, aged 18. The exhibition will include about 100 looks, with designs from names such as Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel, Versace, and Vivienne Westwood. Edward Enninful OBE, the outgoing Vogue editor-in-chief, has curated an installation of imagery by photographers including Nick Knight, Steven Meisel and Tim Walker, too. Discover more about her current support of emerging creatives, through Arise Fashion Week and her global initiative EMERGE. Exhibition takes place 22 June 2024 to 6 April 2025, book tickets at vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/naomi

Everybody’s talking about…

It’s back – and bolder than ever! Salon Smart 2024, Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event, delivers a whole day of new insight, learning and inspiration from industry experts and innovators, on 18 March. We’re talking boosting profits with

Maddi Cook, capitalising on the untapped texture market with entrepreneur Winnie Awa, diversifying your brand with Samantha Cusick, and maintaining a healthy mindset with Hayley Jepson.

And if you sign up to the Creative HEAD weekly newsletter, you can get £20 off your ticket! What are you waiting for? Turn to page 44 for more details

CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 11:24

Angus on stage in 2014

INDUSTRY MOURNS DEATH OF ANGUS MITCHELL Angus Mitchell, the son of Paul Mitchell cofounder Paul, co-owner of haircare company John Paul Mitchell Systems, and hair educator, has died at the age of 53.

Across a busy career, he opened his own salon in Beverly Hills in 2010 and educated globally for JPMS, a share of which he inherited from his father, who died in 1989. He was also a creative force behind the company’s barbering and grooming brand, MITCH. “Angus had a huge heart that impacted countless people who crossed his path. We are grateful for the time we had with him, though it ended far too soon,” said John Paul DeJoria, co-founder and chairman of John Paul Mitchell Systems, in a tribute on Instagram.

Angus, who died at his home in Hawaii, is survived by his son Dylan and his wife Mara.

CATCH-UP Sheila Abrahams, founder of the Freelance Hairdressers Association, will receive an MBE for her outstanding contribution to the freelance hairdressing community.

Zoë Irwin, Christian Wiles, Ria Kulik and Niall McNulty are new recruits to this year’s Matrix global artistic team.

Danilo Giangreco has been appointed artistic ambassador for Revlon Professional in the UK and Ireland.

BOOK IT!

COLOUR CONCEPTS WITH JAYSON GRAY AND KEUNE Fresh to the Keune family, the Karbon Kyd Jayson Gray is headlining this masterclass in all areas of tint, taint, and texture. Prep yourself for a deep dive into considered colour, with a strong influence from fashion houses and how their approach to working with colour and trends heavily influences Jayson. Think of this as catwalk to client, condensed! It’s immersive, forward thinking, and easily transferable to the salon, giving you inspiration for techniques and colour palettes your clients will love.

WHEN 19 March, London VISIT academy.keuneukeducation.co.uk

New guidelines for allergy testing A new UK allergy testing protocol for professional hair colour has been developed through a collaboration of industry bodies, including the NHBF and the Hair & Barber Council.

They have blended the changes announced by Cosmetics Europe last year with existing industry best practices. Posting professional colour to a client’s home for them to test there is not recommended under the new protocol, as this goes against industry best practice and may invalidate insurance cover. The new protocol recognises three systems for professional allergy alert testing:

1. The Allergy Alert Test (AAT) Instructions designed by manufacturers and printed on packaging and instructions for use.

2. Protocols designed for professional use only and conducted by a hair professional.* 3. Universal allergy screening tests licensed as medicines for consumers to use at home to screen for the most common hair colour allergen (PPD).

These products are available to buy online or via approved stockists and may only need to be used once.

Precise protocols differ, it is the responsibility of professionals to check their insurance cover

*

Schlepping your kit around always runs the risk of something vital going AWOL. Avoid this daily battle of frustration by investing in Apple’s AirTag, a stress-free way to keep track of your vital possessions. Simply pop one in your bag, then hey presto! You can track that bag on your Find My app. You’ll thank us, really…

RRP from £35, apple.com/uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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THE FACES THE PEOPLE IN ACTION

What would Katy Grimshaw do?

Katy Grimshaw, founder of Spectrum One salon and Spectrum One Hair Extensions, thought her business was running smoothly when she started her maternity leave.

But things started to fall apart… how did she turn it all around?

I thought both my fully-booked salon and thriving brand were running like well-oiled machines.

Then I had my first baby and had to take time away from the businesses for the first time. At this point, I had a salon with both self-employed and employed stylists. I was there in-person all the time, the classic ‘first one to arrive, last to leave’, and was unknowingly the sole beginning, middle and end of my management structure. What I didn’t realise was that without me, there was no management, and once I’d stepped away, the chain of command completely collapsed.

Just days into my leave, stylists started moving and cancelling clients, making mistakes during their appointments and not knowing how to fix them without my physical guidance – all of which I realised was my fault. It happened so quickly that I had to get back to my businesses to save the situation. When I stepped back in, the first thing I did was to remove all of the self-employed stylists, making it into a fully employed salon with much more structure.

From there, I spent about six months building back the business after the damage of me being away for only a few weeks.

By removing five or six stylists, I created an instant dent in the business which I had to cover to keep the business afloat. I was doing this all while building a management structure from the ground up. Right away I started to recruit management and front of house staff, while learning to delegate roles and parts of the business to them.

Once the recruitment process was done I turned my attention to training and staff retention. The employed staff that I kept on were given more responsibility in exchange for pay rises and rewards. They were given a salon manager so they now had someone who was there in my absence. I also delegated an education budget so I could invest back into the staff and give them even more reason to stay.

Investing in the team and supporting their growth is key to staff retention. Along with overthrowing every element of how the salon was run before, I overhauled my mindset and working relationship with the salon. @spectrumonehairextensions

WHAT MADE ME APRIL PATTARA

SOMEWHERE, QUEENS PARK @somewhereinqp @aprilhairlondon

I founded Somewhere in London’s Queens Park following lockdown. It was after years of being an educator for Wella and building up a clientele in various salons across London. We’re closed on Sundays and Mondays to allow the team time to rest. We regularly go for team breakfast meetings to catch up. Our team days out don’t always include alcohol, and we tend to step out of

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our comfort zone, helping us grow. We also hire out the studio space to educators and brands for workshops and events, which my team get to participate in.

The salon backs onto a green woodland with wildlife and dog walkers; you’d never believe you were still in London. The calming energy this woodland adds to the salon is always mentioned by clients when they walk through the doors. We have an array of specially selected short-read books to educate and inspire. There’s also a ‘paint while you wait’ area, where we encourage clients to take a minute away from their screens to get creative. I want to give clients a holistic experience, adding a little something special so they leave with more than just great hair. Wellbeing is not just a luxury – it’s a way of life.

CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 14:15

GIMME MORE!

For explorers, creators, artisans, this is the infinite colour palette you need to get your hands on.

Get MORE from the ever-evolving, better than ever IGORA Vibrance from your #partnerincraft Schwarzkopf Professional

HAIR BY by Aleksandar Dramicanin (@aleksandar_dramicanin) – Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador, Serbia

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MORE Services

Full flexibility means more options for all hair types

MORE Shades

Four new natural and eight new blonde pastel shades join the IGORA Vibrance portfolio, including the highly anticipated 10 series. You’ve got everything you need to create the looks clients want now

MORE Care

New FIBREBOND Technology has been added to all blonde toners to mimimise breakage during blonding services

MORE Sustainability

Recycled plastic and recycled paper packing are designed to be fully recyclable*

SAME Trusted Performance Thanks to its iconic formula, offering up to 100 per cent more shine

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR Recycling requires local recycling possibilities and disposal in recycling stream. Check your local recycling.

SO MUCH MORE FROM IGORA VIBRANCE

*

One thing you can rely on from your clients: they will always want change. And as their demands and tastes evolve, you need to be right there with all the answers.

That requires having the tools you can rely on to bring your artistry to life. On the menu right now? Clients want vibrant colour without the commitment, so they’re free to keep trying new looks… and all without the fear of damage.

With new IGORA Vibrance from Schwarzkopf Professional, you can deliver all that and MORE… Thanks to its ammonia-free liquid formula – that can transform into a gel or a cream – IGORA Vibrance has always enabled hair pros to do more for their clients, regardless of hair type: this is a colour that also works beautifully on wavy, curly and coily hair, preserving curl pattern and bounce while keeping the moisture balance and adding shine. But now there’s even more for you to work with: more services, more shades, more care and more sustainability than before, while still providing the same trusted performance.

And there’s (even) more! In addition to the existing Moisture Protecting Complex with AQUAXYL, all IGORA Vibrance blonde toners now contain FIBREBOND Technology, which reduces hair breakage by protecting hair from deep within. This powerful combination of actives deeply penetrates the hair during the oxidative process, protecting the hair bonds to maintain the hair’s strength and elasticity. IGORA blondes have never looked healthier!

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EARN MORE! Three colour services using IGORA Vibrance, interpreted by Schwarzkopf Professional guest hair artists and ambassadors – and every single one of them a money-spinner for your business…

Colour Service #1 Colour Melt

This classic dual application uses IGORA Royal on the roots and IGORA Vibrance on the lengths and ends.

HAIR BY Brendnetta Ashley Here, Brendnetta creates a crimson balayage on curly hair by pre-lightening with BLONDME Clay Lightener and applying IGORA Royal at the roots before blending three shades of IGORA Vibrance through lengths and ends. The resulting seamless, yet vibrant red colour melt enlivens natural coils.

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Colour Service #2 Glossing

A full head application of IGORA Vibrance can be used to enhance, enrich, change, match, tone down or intensify natural or colour-treated hair. Says Schwarzkopf Professional global ambassador Lesley Jennison: “I love the versatility of IGORA Vibrance, there are so many ways for us to use it in the salon, every single day.”

HAIR BY Linh Phan Linh uses BLONDME Premium Lightener to pre-lighten face-framing sections before glossing with IGORA Vibrance, creating a peek-a-boo pink colour pop around the face.

HAIR BY Lesley Jennison (@lesleyjennison) – Schwarzkopf Professional global colour ambassador Using IGORA Vario Blond Plus to pre-lighten, FIND ALL THE LOOKS, Lesley then glosses with two shades of IGORA COMPLETE WITH STEPVibrance, a light milk brown and a soft beige blonde. The result is a cool-toned, sun-kissed look.

BY-STEP TECHNIQUES AT

SCHWARZKOPFPRO.COM/ VIBRANCE

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HAIR BY Maggie Hancock Pre-lightening dark brunette hair to create a base for her gloss, Maggie uses two shades of IGORA Vibrance to craft a rich, yet effortlessly dimensional brunette look.

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Colour Service #3 Lived-In Blonde

A soft and delicate blend of darker roots combines with lighter mid-lengths and ends, resulting in a high-impact, low-maintenance colour result that gives dimension to the hair with the versatility to match various skin tones.

HAIR BY Shawna Russell (@hairbyshawna_russell) – Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador, Canada After creating foil highlights using IGORA Vario Blond Plus, Shawna creates a timeless look using two shades of IGORA Vibrance for a subtle shadow root and extra dimension through the lengths and ends.

HAIR BY Maria Roberts (@mariaroberts25) – Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador, Spain Beautifully highlighting the many forms blonde can take, Maria pre-lightens a naturally dark brunette with BLONDME Premium Lightener and a balayage technique before glossing with IGORA Vibrance to create the perfect bronde.

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HAIR BY Grace Dalgleish (@gracedalgleishx) – Schwarzkopf Professional guest artist Grace pre-lightens all the way to platinum before toning with IGORA Vibrance to create a playful peachy blonde that’s equally eye-catching and effortless.

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WE LOVE IT MORE!

HOW IGORA VIBRANCE WORKS FOR MY SALON

WHY I LOVE IGORA VIBRANCE FOR MY CREATIVITY

“Why would I recommend IGORA Vibrance? Well, let me spill the tea! First, Vibrance is not your ordinary hair colour. It’s a versatile gem that can do it all. From toning and neutralising to covering and creating stunning glossing effects, it’s got you covered.

“But what sets IGORA Vibrance apart from the rest is its ability to enhance and bring out the natural beauty of your client’s hair.

For those who adore their natural colour, IGORA Vibrance offers a glossing service that will make their locks shine like never before, giving them that coveted salon finish. It’s the perfect solution for clients with their first few greys and aren't quite ready for full permanent coverage.

“And the reason why IGORA Vibrance is so special to me is how it enables me to create personalised formulas for my clients.

Whether it's finding the perfect shade or creating a custom hair colour, Vibrance allows me to tailor each look to suit their unique style and personality. As a colourist, having the choice of either a gel or lotion activator has truly revolutionised my work. The instant availability of these two options gives me incredible tonal control and the freedom to experiment with various formulas.

For a busy colourist, this is a game-changer!”

“For creative and experimental colourists like me, IGORA Vibrance from Schwarzkopf Professional is essential. The line helps to create the most beautiful, vibrant colour on all hair types and textures. Now, clients are being a lot more experimental with their hair colour, opting for bold, vivid shades. They’re also trying out new colour placement techniques to add a unique and quirky pop of colour to their hair, and I love to use this range to achieve these contemporary looks. Not only are the colours amazing for bolder, brighter and pastel hair shades, but also blondes too.

“Clients are now more cautious than ever about the health of their blonde hair, and they want their hair to look not only clean, but also healthy and full of shine. The blonde toners within the range include FIBREBOND Technology, which maintain the hair’s strength and elasticity making it incredible for your blonde clients.

“I also love to use a Colour Melt application technique (using IGORA Royal on the roots and IGORA Vibrance on the lengths and ends) to create a seamless colour blend on the hair, particularly on textured/curly hair types.”

Vishali Visavadia, salon director at London Road Hair, Leicester

Suzie McGill, artistic director at Rainbow Room International and Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador

Prism by Suzie McGill, Rainbow Room International. Make-up by Jak Morgan. Styling by Clare Frith. Photography by Michael Young.

These two salon bosses are already enjoying MORE success with IGORA Vibrance

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READY, STEADY, SHINE!

TO KEEP UP WITH IGORA VIBRANCE AND THE VERY LATEST IN HAIR TRENDS, FOLLOW @SCHWARZKOPFPROUK #MOREVIBRANCE #SCHWARZKOPFPRO THE IGORA VIBRANCE UPGRADED ASSORTMENT IS AVAILABLE FEBRUARY 2024

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creativeheadmag.com

Blurring the boundaries between light and dark, ‘Contrast’ from Wez Jones explores depth, dimension, and texture to create a dynamic drama that is at the heart of the collection

Salon Smart returns to London on 18 March, with a packed one-day agenda.

Tickets are on sale now, with an exclusive discount for newsletter subscribers

creativeheadmag.com

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If you’re a freelance pro looking to connect with other like-minded creatives, make sure you’ve joined our SELF/STYLED Community group over on Facebook

creativeheadmagofficial

From 5 to 11 February, we’ll be shining a spotlight on the next generation – and how to attract them. Join us for a week-long special for National Apprenticeship Week

@creativeheadmag

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER!

25/01/2024 14:16

24/7

A DAY OF WORK/LIFE BALANCE FOR JACK MERRICK-THIRLWAY, CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY @JMTHAIR1

I GET UP AT… 7am, I check my messages and Instagram, then it’s shower time and I’m out of the door.

MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… Many colours! The day ahead and how I’m feeling decides the outfit of the day. There are usually a few must-have black items but generally a splash of colour.

MY JOB ENTAILS… Making hair look beautiful and people feel they are the best version of themselves. When you stand behind your chair you are on a stage to produce the work that your clients deserve.

I GOT HERE BY… Dedication and hard work. As clichéd as it sounds, these two elements are what it takes to make it as far as you can go in this industry.

There are so many unbelievable artists that you need to put in the time to stand out.

MY DAY CONSISTS OF… Lots of different aspects, as I mix my days between salon and session. If I’m at the salon then it will be full days looking after friends that I have known for many years, or guests who are new in my chair. We are under pressure to get our job done perfectly in a short space of time so precision is key.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… L’Oréal Professionnel Paris TECNI.Art Pli is in my kit and used on pretty much every head of hair I touch!

MY DAILY FUEL IS… Cocoa orange Nakd bars or cashew nuts!

Instagram To see what people found interesting enough to post.

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American Golf To find some more unnecessary purchases.

MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… A mix. This can switch between Drake to Simply Red in a flash. I have such an array of random music. I love Maverick Sabre and Ed Sheeran though.

I’M ALWAYS THINKING ABOUT… Playing golf. Obsessed. Not the best golfer by far, but I’m definitely obsessed!

WHEN I GET STRESSED… I head to the golf range, 100 per cent. This is the place where I feel stress-free.

WHEN I GET STUCK… I generally call Aimee, my fiancée, for advice. She’s definitely more logical than me, which I know many may say isn’t difficult!

THE MISTAKE I LEARNT FROM THE MOST… You cannot please everyone all of the time. Not everything you do is always going to be perfect. You will find a way to improve and grow. I think the older and wiser you get, the more you come to realise this is the case.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… That once you create a style of work, stick to it. I honestly feel that to grow you must adapt, learn and keep your eyes open to everything that is happening around you.

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Coleslaw. I could eat coleslaw with every single meal, no matter what.

AFTER WORK… I head home to Aimee.

We generally cook a nice meal most evenings. It’s rare we sit down before 8pm, so then we watch some TV and head to bed about 10:30pm.

I DECOMPRESS BY… Either cooking or playing golf. Both help me to switch off and think of nothing but the job in hand.

WhatsApp To check in with all that I need checking in with!

CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 11:25

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR

IA L

HEAD First With a thriving salon group in the Midlands, Sally Montague understands the importance of looking after her mental health, and that of her team across seven locations. Here’s how she does it, with a little help from Head Up by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Creative HEAD: Is it hard as a salon owner to take on the concerns and worries of your staff?

Sally Montague: It is – you must run the business well for the sake of everyone. It’s difficult to also take on additional concerns and worries, especially when you have a big team separated over seven locations. This has become more prevalent since the pandemic.

In the second lockdown we put a much bigger focus on our team’s mental wellbeing, talking more openly and bringing in a positivity and health coach to share tips and ideas.

CH: How do you support each other at Sally Montague?

SM: We actively avoid gossip and drama of any kind, something we openly discuss from a new team member’s induction. Our approach is always evolving but we have a focus on ensuring that the team is equipped to deal with challenging situations in the salon. For example, at our last team meeting I presented how to use mindfulness and visualisation techniques to deal with difficult clients. These were techniques that I have been using for years and I was really pleased by the reaction from the team.

what situation someone has at home. I know from personal experience that sometimes it’s good to go the salon and feel like you’re leaving your concerns at the door, almost like you’re on stage. Then, by the end of the day, you have been away from that problem for a few hours and given yourself a break!

CH: How would you advise others to use Head Up? SM: It’s fantastic that L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is providing this training. I’d advise everyone to complete the Head Up Keys courses on Access and discuss it as a team, so that everyone can recognise mental health concerns and build resilience.

CH: How do you manage the many pressures of a busy salon?

SM: I do yoga every morning; this a much calmer way to start the day and gives me focus. I genuinely believe that this makes me a kinder person and forces me to slow down. We also decided to close on Sundays. It was always a busy day but it’s important to have a day without the pressure of clients.

CH: How do you ensure everyone feels cared for in your team?

SM: By creating a happy atmosphere and treating everyone as an individual.

Everybody has good and bad days, and we need to work through them together, as calmly as possible. You also never know

A successful business and a happy team starts with better mental health.

Take those first steps with the four-part Head Up Keys courses.

Scan the QR code or visit uk.lorealaccess.com CREATIVE HEAD

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25/01/2024 11:26

Could this be the holy grail of hair styling? New from ghd, chronos is a HD motion-responsive styler that’s three-time s faster, delivering 85 per cent more shine, two-times less frizz and up to three-times more breakage protection. When results are that fast, think how much more time you’ll have for more clients…

RRP £289

As inky dark looks are searched more on social, iNOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is launching its Black Abyss collection, with 20 of the deepest shades. There’s a wide variety of vibrance levels with four colour categories, deploying hints of brown, red, green, and purple with up to 100 per cent grey coverage.

In-salon service

uk.lorealpartnershop.com

You get so much more with revamped IGORA Vibrance from Schwarzkopf Professional. With four new natural and eight new blonde pastel shades, an extra dollop of care thanks to the new FIBREBOND Technology added to all blonde toners, and more packaging designed to be fully recyclable, IGORA Vibrance is perfect for every hair type… oh, and it gives up to 100 per cent more shine, too!

In-salon service

schwarzkopfpro.com/vibrance

ghdhair.com

The Wahl Hi-Viz Trimmer features a skeleton design with an extra wide T-blade with DLC and titanium coatings to keep the blades cooler and sharper for longer. And the zero-gap function allows you to deliver precision details and outlining.

INDOLA is relaunching Color Style Mousse, and it’s a gamechanger. We’re talking zero sticky residue, and you can leave it in for an instant tint or rinse it off for a more intense colour. Perfect for refreshing, toning and neutralising insalon services, and to retail for at-home maintenance. There’s also a new shade (Dark Ash) joining the 15-shade portfolio.

RRP £9.40 indola.co.uk

RRP £197.99

wahl.co.uk

Fresh from Australia, the hydrating CURLiCUE Curl Balm from vegan brand DAVROE activates and enhances natural curls for a smooth, glossy and bouncy finish, all while providing UV and heat protection, too.

RRP £30.95

davroe.co.uk

Looking for intensive yet gentle cleansing? ALFAPARF Milano Professional has you covered with Detoxifying Low Shampoo, new to the Semi Di Lino Sublime Detox range. Its vegan and biodegradable formula also includes Urban Defence Pro, an antipollution shield; Shine Fix Complex, which promises 24 hours of brightening power; and Colour Fix Complex, a UV filter and antioxidant to prolong colour.

RRP £14.50

xpertprofessional.co.uk

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CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 11:28

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES COMING I!N APRIL Fresh from Keune comes “a colourist’s dream” – so says its new UK colour visionary artist, Jayson Gray! The Cleanse Mist is a professional metal-removing spray used at the backwash that neutralises metals deep inside the hair fibre, assuring true-to-tone colours with any technical treatment. Then opt for the take-home Revive Balm, a strengthening leave-in balm designed to repair hair damage and deliver long-lasting colour.

RRP Balm £47.30 keune.com/uk

New from Clean Beauty from Paul Mitchell is the brilliant Color Depositing Treatment, with five shades to select from: cayenne, cinnamon, vanilla, cocoa and truffle, as well as a clear shine as an enhancing treatment gloss. And packs are made from 95 per cent post-consumer recycled aluminium.

RRP £13.95

salon-success.co.uk

Smoother, more hydrated hair that’s quicker to dry? A tool that uses less energy and with settings that are customisable via an app? Yup, that’s what’s been revealed with the AirLight Pro, a new tech-stuffed hair drying tool from L’Oréal. It has a high-speed 17-blade motor alongside infrared technology that’s powered by tungsten-halogen bulbs. That means fast hair drying without excessive heat. With both infrared light and high-speed air combined, the AirLight Pro efficiently dries water on the hair’s surface, allowing internal moisture to remain in hair strands. It will launch first in salons in the UK and Europe in April via L’Oréal Professionnel Paris.

Meet the new honeycomb-inspired modular trolley from Colour–B, developed by hairdresser Mustafa Hassan.

Featuring a clever hexagonal design colour station with a patent-pending ‘Drop-Lock’ system, it helps maximise space and connect colour bowls directly to the trolley.

Salon price £299

colour-b.com

With six new colours in its premium Elegance hair range, extensions favourite Remi Cachet has the blends you need for the most popular trends right now, including a natural auburn that’s a cowgirl copper essential, and more rooted options for lower maintenance looks.

In-salon service remicachet.com

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THE PLACES

NEW SPACES, FRESH LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK BETTER SHAG! EAST, WAPPING @shaglondon

SHAG! London’s second location sees it unveiling a fabulously quirky and esoteric location in Wapping, the opposite side of town to its Great Western Studios outpost. Co-founder Joe Sirry admits that the team had outgrown its first salon quite quickly. “We’ve been so looking forward to having more space as it’s allowed us to have a private place for anyone who needs to keep their hair hidden,” he explains. “Wapping is a super-cute and quiet area with excellent pubs and the Thames on our doorstep!” The 2,000 sq ft space will also offer the perfect host for the brand’s monthly mixer events for clients, which include a variety of attractions such as life drawing classes, pub quizzes, tattoo artistry, tooth gems, tarot card readings and sustainability talks. With furniture and equipment from Comfortel, Ale Mosquera, Robin Lambert and CSS Salon Supplies, as well as unique finds on Etsy and Vinterior, there’s plenty to keep the eye engaged. Talking points include the stunning marbled pink glossy floor, the red platform stiletto chair and the generous bounty of hanging and potted plants.

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24/01/2024 11:33

FRANCESCO HAIR SALON, LILLIPUT

@francescohair.salons Having recently undergone a group-wide brand makeover, this Dorset salon is the first fully branded salon bearing the new name, and the 37th salon in the group.

CREATIVE HEAD

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MEDUSA HAIRDRESSING, EDINBURGH

@medusahairdressing The sixth addition to this chain in Raeburn Place does not disappoint, thanks to the stunning combination of period features and modern, monochrome touches.

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25/01/2024 11:29

“NOT ACCEPTING NEW CLIENTS…” …is the immortal statement featured in stylists’ social media bios, but is it a badge of honour or a death sentence? Founder of The Haus Studio in Dundee, Frazer Wallace, investigates

Look on a busy independent stylist’s social media bio, and you might spot the words ‘not accepting new clients’. I’d first noticed this statement being a ‘thing’ in the US, especially for those with 10,000+ followers. As a UK-based stylist, I’m now seeing this crop up more here, with so many stylists producing beautiful work but not letting anyone new book in.

If you’re booked out six months in advance then I understand that having lots of people message or call to get you might be annoying. But why close yourself off to meeting new people and being inspired by new ideas? I think this is new badge of honour, similar to a ‘blue tick’. Yet I feel it’s becoming more negative than positive.

I had this ‘not accepting new clients’ statement in my Instagram bio for a time. I was travelling a lot, and I’d cut down my days in the salon so I couldn’t fit any more guests in. Five months of

“This badge of honour, which was just an ego boost in all honesty, became a real problem” FRAZER WALLACE incredible business then… quiet. Ooh, scary, right? Yes, it was! I couldn’t understand why I had one or two weeks of maybe a single client a day, then after that they’d be back-to-back. Well, it’s because I had ‘not accepting new clients’ in my bio. I had also told my clients that I wasn’t accepting new guests either, so guess what?

They stopped recommending me to their friends.

This badge of honour, which was just an ego boost in all honesty, became a real problem. When I wanted to meet new clients, I couldn’t. Instead, I welcome new clients now but with an explanation that there will be a wait time until their first appointment. This way I’m not closing off any potential new clientele, and when I post some unexpected availability (everyone gets it now and again) there are people waiting to fill the spaces… and possibly become lifelong customers.

My point is: don’t fall for it. It’s not inviting to have a big fat ‘no’ on your page. Your social media gathers income.

Keep your books open to ensure you stay inspired and to welcome anyone who could replace the person who may just replace you when someone new and cool comes along. There is business around for everyone, but don’t close yourself off to it just to feel important. It’s not worth it. And as a business owner, if I was interviewing someone who had this in their own bio, I wouldn’t take them on. It gives off Big Ego Energy.

We all know that social media brings in the money. Don’t let this stop you from making good money behind the chair that you’ve worked so hard to get busy in. @frazerhair

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YOUR BUSINESS

Dwindling apprentice numbers, recruitment headaches, changing consumer and employee behaviours, the cost of living crisis, bills ticking up, longer stretches between client appointments… running a hair business has presented plenty of challenges in recent years. As 2024 stretches out before us – and ahead of Creative HEAD’s business networking event Salon Smart returning in March – we asked salon owners what they had planned for their own businesses over the coming months. From major changes in product partnerships to identifying ways to entice clients’ loyalty, it’s a snapshot of proactive strategies to ensure growth and success 28

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/01/2024 11:36

2024 is such an exciting year for Atelier Hair. We have a new space, an extension, and personal growth within our team and business.

We’re gearing up to launch a new venture in a beautiful three-storey, grade 2 listed building built in 1891, with stunning views over Derry city and the river and not far from our salon. We hope to bring this Georgian space to life with a hair salon, a coffee shop, space for tattoo artists, barbers, nail techs, beauty services, aesthetics, and even a podcast studio. We’re turning it into a lively and inclusive hub where up to 20 freelancers can express themselves in different ways under one roof. Planning permitting, we hope to start work on it around March and have a big launch this summer.

the Most Wanted and It List awards. It was an amazing event last year so it will be great to join in. We’ll also be doubling down on our love for all things local by collaborating with local fashion and jewellery brands and hosting more events and pop-up shops in the salon. This way, we’re supporting our community and giving our clients a diverse and inclusive experience.

Ronan Stewart, Atelier Hair To do list salon expansion, diversification, collaboration

But that’s not all. Seeing a surge in demand, we’re also expanding our current space. Just a short walk away from our new venture, we’re adding an extra 1,000 sq ft to our existing 2,200-sq ft salon. This expansion will allow room for five of our brilliant assistants who are stepping up as stylists, and it will let us better serve our clients, especially during Christmas. We’re targeting September for the grand reveal, perfect timing to welcome the festive rush with open arms and upgraded services, giving our clients an even better experience in a bigger and more dynamic setting.

We also invested in our e-commerce site last year and we started seeing the fruits in the second half, all with organic growth. So this year we’re going to start dabbling in SEO to see where we can take it.

On a personal note, I’ve been accepted into Creative HEAD’s Activator mentorship programme, and I’ve had the honour to be paired with Rob White and Lee Nash-Jones from Nashwhite, the Most Wanted Business Thinker 2023 winners.

We’ve already kicked things off with a meeting in Derry this January. Their passion and creativity are infectious, and I can’t wait to soak in more of their wisdom in Warwickshire. It’s an immense opportunity, both to help grow Atelier and to see how other leaders work.

I'll also be attending Salon Smart and, for the first time, we also plan to enter

CREATIVE HEAD

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25/01/2024 11:32

Gina Conway, Gina Conway Aveda Salon & Spa To do list loyalty scheme, client promotions, increasing visits

We’re fostering client loyalty and increased visits by introducing a membership scheme for 2024, ensuring good value for clients and regular visits for us. We are consulting with our clients beforehand on what’s important to them and devising our membership around that, with different packages available on hair and beauty.

We hosted lots of events in 2023 and these have been amazing to really show clients our skills, for example, around hair loss and menopause. We partnered with a local magazine to host an evening with talks from menopause experts including Dr Naomi Potter, who works with Davina McCall; GLOWWA, which has a menopause hair supplement; and, of course, ourselves as hair experts. As well as drawing in new clients and offering value to existing ones, these events are great for content creation and showing who we are and what we do on social.

I call the team ‘daymakers’ here at Gina Conway and I’ve always designed my salons to be a haven of calm, so that when clients come in through the door they get beautiful aromatherapy fragrances, relaxing surroundings, attention to detail and good vibes from the team – it’s a sanctuary. It’s essential to show our existing and potential clients who we are and what our ethos is to attract the right ones to us, and we want to ensure we deliver the best customer service and experience so they keep coming back. Every salon should be brilliant at hair, so what makes us stand out are service and experience.

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We’re introducing a new client promotion to complement our loyalty scheme. Our new promotions will include compiling a package with other local businesses so clients can benefit from a discount or perks on a selection of services. Our salon is inside a department store and we’re joining up with the MAC makeup counter, the Londora nail bar and the brow bar as a part of the beauty package.

We will offer a generous recommend a friend/new client limited time offer to loyal guests, so they can recruit friends and family. We want to attract people just like them while rewarding them at the same time.

Marketing and communication are our key focuses for business building in 2024. We’re making sure we send regular e-shots and nurture our mailing list, always thinking about what the client would like to receive and tracking what works and what doesn’t. It pays to be nimble, so we’re always ready to react to capitalise on business opportunities.

CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 11:32

I launched HARE & BONE 10 years ago and feel grateful looking back over the past decade, reflecting on the success of the individuals and team involved in the business. We’ve grown as a brand and as a family, through tough times and good times. I’m conscious that as a salon owner, stylist, and human, I too have evolved and I’m not the same person I was in 2014. My values and priorities are clearer, and my confidence in who I am comes not from outside validation but from within.

With this in mind, HARE & BONE will be working with a new salon partner for the first time since its inception. The ethos and values of Davines align with where the team and I are today and where we want to take the business.

Doing more than the minimal, the B Corp status of the brand was a big attraction for us, and the family-run element is a bonus. Its transparency, authenticity and accountability inspire us as a business to look for the best practices and prioritise people over profit.

Sam Burnett, HARE & BONE

To do list prioritising happiness, fresh focus on authenticity, creativity, community With the change in partnership and 10th anniversary, I’ve taken time to consider what the future could look like. This junction has allowed me to look deeply into what I want from my future. In 2014 I was doing what I believed was expected of me, what the next step in my career should be. Today I know myself better and, by prioritising my happiness, I can protect my energy and longevity, as well as that of the team and business. Fashion and editorial work are at my core, and filters through all aspects of the brand.

This year I’ll be putting more time and resources into expanding our involvement in Fashion Week, working with designers and brands that get us. It also sees us reach the goal of offering more education back to people in our industry. Jamie Benny and Amelia Evans are leading creative and trend-focused educational courses, while I’m currently designing bespoke mentoring programmes that reflect my experiences and outlook.

These courses will be available in collaboration with Davines but also as standalone HARE & BONE days.

In the past few years I have developed my knowledge and experience in holistic therapies and will be incorporating this into new salon offerings. I believe that hair should be seen as part of an overall wellness routine, through daily rituals and salon visits.

As a qualified reiki practitioner, I have been offering reiki to my clients for a few months and will be launching Urban Reiki at HARE & BONE imminently.

For me, 2024 is all about fresh starts and fresh opportunities – for the team, the business and our clients. I feel strong and ready for the year ahead and I’m confident that with our values in place, we can positively contribute to the community around us.

CREATIVE HEAD

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24/01/2024 11:37

Talisha Cox, Elite Hair Lounge To do list pricing, elevating service, management structure

One significant change this year involves a thoughtful adjustment in our pricing structure. This isn’t just about numbers; it’s a reflection of the value we place on the high-quality services we provide. While ensuring affordability remains a priority, this update allows us to invest in key areas that will enhance the overall salon experience.

Elevating customer service is a cornerstone of our vision for 2024. From personalised consultations to tailored treatments, our goal is to create an atmosphere that goes beyond expectations. The experience at Elite Hair Lounge should not only meet but exceed your expectations, and this commitment to exceptional service will be at the forefront of our operations.

In line with this, there will be a concentrated effort on improving our managerial structure. As the founder of the business, I am taking a step back from day-to-day operations to concentrate on overall strategic growth. This shift is not just a change in responsibilities; it’s a reimagining of how we function as a team.

By empowering our managers and staff, we’re creating a more dynamic and innovative atmosphere that fosters individual and collective growth.

A key focus is also staff training and development. Our team is the heartbeat of our success, and investing in their skills ensures that we stay at the forefront of industry trends. Through comprehensive training programmes, we’re not just keeping up; we’re setting new standards. This commitment to our team’s growth directly translates into a better experience for our valued clients.

Ensuring our staff feel valued and well looked after is a crucial component of our vision. We recognise that a happy and fulfilled team directly translates into better service for our clients. Implementing wellness initiatives and providing a supportive atmosphere are integral to creating a workplace where our team thrives.

We’re confident that integrating Bumble and bumble into our training and in-store practices will contribute significantly to the overall success and reputation of our salon as a destination for top-tier beauty and wellness services.

This year we’re taking our commitment to the community to new heights.

Collaborating with local organisations, participating in community events, and engaging in philanthropic activities are integral parts of our plan. We believe that true success is not just measured in business metrics but in the positive impact we make on the communities we serve.

For a day chock-full of business inspiration from brilliant salon owners and experts, book your place at creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

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24/01/2024 11:37

Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton Salons To do list focus on the consumer, step up local and national PR When my dad, Russell, opened his first salon in Barnsley in 1978, it was a gamechanger. Having been part of the team that opened Sassoon’s Manchester salon, he knew he wanted to bring that expertise and cool style to his hometown – and it proved an instant success. So two years later they moved to a bigger premises in Barnsley and once again to its current location in the heart of the town centre. Then 15 years ago we opened our first salon in Leeds.

We’ve just opened the doors to a new Leeds location, and made a change in product partner to L’Oréal Professional Products alongside a new direction in PR. It all marks the start of the next chapter; all businesses must evolve to stay relevant, retain clients and attract new ones.

This includes supporting team members on their own journey, such as Daniel Couch, who has been nominated for several colour awards and is Colour Project Leader at the Fellowship, and whom we’ve just promoted to artistic director.

For the new salon we worked with the same designer who created the concept for our Barnsley salon. We wanted to tie the two salons together and bring unity to the brand as it was felt this was missing. We love the timelessness of the Barnsley design plus the focus on curves, circles and chain mail, and so wanted to replicate this in Leeds.

The biggest difference is that we now have two levels and, as it’s a bigger space, we now have 24 styling stations, up from 21. We’ll focus on colour and education on the first floor – the space is flooded with natural light so it is ideal for colour services. Colour will not be exclusive

to the first floor as it’s such a major part of what we do, so we want clients throughout the salon to be able to see colour in action, including the finished looks.

So, for the future, we have a more focused consumer approach. The partnership with L’Oréal Professional Products was selected to offer more premium and recognised luxury retail brands in both salons, and a pop-up academy in the old Leeds salon. We loved working with each of our previous brands, but at this point we felt creatively more aligned with L’Oréal Professional Products. Equally we’ve chosen to work with SLBPR, which is literally around the corner from us, and we’ve worked across several joint projects regionally. It has long-standing relationships with the regional media, influencers and celebrities – some of whom are already our clients and those who will attract new ones. It understands who our client is now as well as those WANT TO SEE WHAT ANDREA DORATA we want to target. This HAS PLANNED FOR 2024? HEAD TO includes a dedicated CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM FOR MORE! national campaign.

CREATIVE HEAD

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25/01/2024 11:33

ATTENTION

Nicholas Nicola is focusing on the numbers with the opening of a brand new, retail-focused 34

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/01/2024 11:39

TO RETAIL

hair and beauty emporium. Welcome to the UK’s very first self-care department store…

CREATIVE HEAD

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SERVICES Hairdressing, GP, beauty treatments, manicures, pedicures, private hairdressing room, personal trainer, nutritionist, reiki healer, physiotherapist.

Cryotherapy will follow in April.

CAFÉ By the incomparable La Bottega Milanese – Italian food and drink with takeaway, outside seating and first floor balcony seating. Also, order food and drink directly to your seat with a QR code.

EAST

Barbering at its best.

BOUTIQUE 111 Skin, Anthony, Aveda, Bumble and bumble, Culti Milano, Dr Levy, ghd, Grown Alchemist, Kalmar, Kérastase, Keune, OLAPLEX, Scandinavian Biolabs, Stila, Sweed, Thameen.

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25/01/2024 14:13

CREATIVE HEAD

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Nicholas Nicola

AFTER EIGHT MONTHS of negotiations, three months of delays and having gone four times over his original budget, in January Nicholas Nicola, owner of the fast-growing Allertons salon brand (two standalone salons and two in John Lewis department stores, with two more slated for this year) opened his most ambitious project to date – the UK’s only ‘self-care department store’, situated within the luxury shopping destination, Victoria Leeds.

On the ground floor: a boutique selling high-quality haircare, skincare, make-up, fragrance, lifestyle products and more, complete with demonstrations and masterclasses with trained professionals, as well as a kiosk offering drinks and light meals with external seating for guests and clients. And on the first floor: a professional boutique selling professional brands and products; 20 hairdressing sections for employed and freelance stylists, plus space for events and shoots and a private suite; a six-section barber shop-within-the-shop; a 10-chair nail bar with four pedicure stations; four beauty and wellness treatment rooms, plus a fifth cryotherapy room and brandable beauty lounge event space. A registered GP, a personal trainer, a nutritionist and a physiotherapist are also available by appointment.

Says Nicholas: “Our clients are loyal and trust us and we know they increasingly want experiences. The new Allertons is the perfect place to offer this, with a 360-degree approach to beauty and wellness and year-round access to brandable treatment rooms and services, offering best-in-class, unique experiences.”

Nicholas had spotted the 7,000 sq ft prime retail unit early in 2023 and knew he had to have it – despite the rent being four times higher than his previous shop. “The astronomical costs drove our thinking around the project, namely, ‘How do we make more money?’” he recalls. “Because no matter how big your salon might be, your target market will always be limited because you’re only ever going to get so many people who like your brand. That’s why we decided to incorporate concessions within our space; it meant we could expand our offering by bringing in experts in other areas, such as barbering and catering, but it also meant we could reduce our fixed costs, and by charging them less than they were paying elsewhere, it created a win-win situation for all.”

Having secured a host of premium brands for the ground floor boutique, many of which are regional exclusives, and by placing fully trained staff on the floor offering not just expert knowledge but also luxury touches such as a complimentary gift-wrapping service, Nicholas is banking on the fact that retail is what’s going to draw the client into his store. But the salon upstairs not only completes the customer experience, it also gives him an edge over his competitors. “You’ve got [Harrods standalone beauty stores] H Beauty expanding, Sephora has opened a second store what feels like five minutes after the first one. But they don’t offer services. And that’s what we do: we’re SpaceNK downstairs but with a salon upstairs. And retail is downstairs because face creams, candles, coffee and cake are more inviting than walking in and interrupting someone who’s putting in a full head of highlights or interrupting a conversation between six people sat behind a desk.”

Having spent 22 years selling beauty products on the floor of department stores including Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, Nicholas believes hairdressing has failed to capitalise on the potential of retail sales. “It’s just never been given the respect it deserves,” he says. “I’ve always felt you’re doing the client a

disservice, not giving them the 360-degree approach. They are obviously into what they look like and how they feel, so why should that stop at the point you have them in your chair? All too often, retail in hairdressing consists of a little wall behind reception and the client has to ask for the product. That is not the effort we should be putting into retail. We should respect the client and respect ourselves enough to really push the opportunity and elevate the service we provide.

“People might say to me about my new opening, ‘Why waste valuable floor space when you could have more hairdressing sections downstairs?’ But then I would not be completing my offering. Retail is so important. And depending on the relationship you have with your suppliers, your margins could be good enough to cover the cost to you of providing the haircut or colour. So, not to dedicate the space or time to retail is like cutting off an arm or leg of your business because it can make you money with fewer resources.”

There’s no doubt Nicholas is focused on the numbers. With 90 per cent of his appointments booked online, a no-show rate of just 0.15 per cent and Google reviews an essential part of his marketing strategy, he recognises the value of a robust and innovative salon software within his business. In fact, he’s not only aggressively renegotiated his rates with his current provider, he’s also tasked them to come up with a bespoke product just for Allertons, providing his clients with a gift card and loyalty scheme that allows them to use their points whether they’re buying products and/or services in person or online.

“I went to a hairdressing business event that was meant to be for the elite clients of that brand, and I couldn’t believe how many of them were still using a paper appointment book and not taking deposits,” says Nicholas. “I believe that if you’ve got more than two people working in your salon, you need a computer and have to take deposits. You have to be strict with your cancellation policy because there’s no getting that appointment back – unless by some freak coincidence someone walks into your salon at that exact moment saying they want to pay the same money for the same service. And let’s face it, that’s not going to happen.”

With the increased cost of his new venture creating such high stakes, Nicholas has a clear imperative to make things work – every inch of his space has got to deliver a return. But it’s his confidence in the combined power of retail and salon that is so impressive – and has led to such an innovative space that is an industry first. This is a concept that breaks the mould of both the traditional salon and the cosmetics store – and, says Nicholas, it will be the blueprint for all Allertons salons moving forward.

Watch this space.

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DO

The news that leading professional hair brands would now be available online and at selected Boots stores has shaken many salons. Growing online sales and high street availability of pro hair products means salons are increasingly searching for ways to encourage clients to spend more time (and money) with them. We spoke with some salon owners who have looked again at retail in their business. For many, it’s now time to…

Natalie Crank,

HEIR Salon & Education, Lytham

Despite many professional brands now selling on the high street, we have seen a rise in retail sales both in salon and online. Even though high street retailers sell the same, our clients’ behaviours and expectations have changed dramatically in the past few years. We’ve identified a significant shift towards a demand for convenience. We noticed distinct patterns in retail and service trends, particularly in services with high retention rates, such as hair extensions and colour services. These insights led us to introduce our bespoke membership model, catering to the evolving needs of our customers. Our core clients are typically time-poor, professional women.

The memberships are designed to streamline the salon experience, offering an all-inclusive package that includes maintenance appointments and essential homecare products, available through a monthly subscription. For example, a client with hair extensions would typically revisit every 10 weeks and require a monthly replenishment of products. The membership model accommodates this by providing priority booking, monthly payments, and a comprehensive care package. A similar subscription model is available for colour clients and is created bespoke, with their specific needs for services and products.

Our online shop complements this model by providing a subscription option for repeat purchases, which has seen particular success with products such as GLOWWA.

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Philipp Haug,

Haug London Haus, Fitzrovia We want to offer the highest level of bespoke haircare possible, so that clients truly feel that what they get from us they cannot buy anywhere else. For us, the new SalonLab&Me line from Schwarzkopf Professional has been amazing. It is next level!

The Salon Lab Analyzer identifies the skin and hair problems that your client has, and using the results, they know that every single product is going to be tailored to them, and that it’s professional grade and quality. It’s such a huge selling point for us with each individual client.

On top of that, clients can choose the colour of the packaging and also the fragrance used. Obviously, they love this – they feel that they have just created their own products! It’s such a powerful experience and it has a direct positive impact on our retail. We get a commission for each sale, and the client gets their products sent to them directly at home. It’s genius, and a real talking point with clients. Then with each following appointment, we continue using the Salon Lab Analyzer to see how the scalp and the hair is being improved, and tweak the formulas of the products they order next. This means it isn’t a single one-and-done service, it keeps evolving. It really taps into that consumer trend of personalised experiences.

Hani Jarcheh,

Abstract Hairdressing, Beaconsfield We like to think that we stand out as a unique and forwardthinking salon, redefining the traditional hairdressing experience. Our commitment to providing an unparalleled salon experience, where every detail matters. At the core of this is our partnership with Keune, a professional-only brand that supports us like we are family. We had been with the same brand for 22 years, but choosing Keune was easy as we felt an instant connection! It aligns perfectly with our ethos of delivering excellence in haircare while being kind to the planet, and the brand’s recent B Corp status shows it is true to its word.

We're a family business, just like Keune, and its dedication to supporting hairdressers resonates deeply with us. It’s loyal to the hairdresser as you can only buy its products in salon, which really helps us with our retail as we know a client can’t go online and buy from a high street shop or website cheaper. We also find clients like having a product line that is only available within salons. It makes them feel that they are getting something of much higher and professional quality than can be bought on the high street or online. This also helps when it comes to retail at Christmas or other celebration days as clients will buy the gift sets for friends and family, knowing they are getting something unique.

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IA L CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR

ALL ABOUT ME

Explore an exciting new business model in your salon with SalonLab&Me, the innovative new haircare brand from Schwarzkopf Professional For the first time ever, Schwarzkopf Professional has combined intelligent hair scanning technology with your expert knowledge, allowing clients to discover the haircare regime that’s exactly right for them. But there’s more: SalonLab&Me not only offers a truly unique consultation experience for clients, but also provides you with a new business-to-business-to-consumer model.

The four-step process starts in your salon with the SalonLab Analysis – an in-app questionnaire coupled with the use of the SalonLab Analyzer to analyse inner hair strength.

This leads to a hyper-personalised product recommendation that’s unique to the client, exactly matching their individual hair needs and goals. Step three sees the products further customised with the client’s name and their chosen colour on the labels, as well as their preferred fragrance.

And finally, with a fully digitised order process, clients can purchase their products directly online – with you receiving a commission on every order placed.

Daniel Granger introduced SalonLab&Me at his eponymous Northampton salon and has found the physical-meets-digital experience really sets him apart from the competition. “SalonLab&Me seamlessly incorporates cutting-edge technology into our salon,” he says. “The Smart Analyzer’s ability to analyse treatment results helps us to cultivate client loyalty as it’s not a service that every high street salon offers.”

Tempted to try? Daniel describes the effect SalonLab&Me has had on his salon’s service level as “transformative”, as well as leading to an increase in client engagement. “Your expertise as a stylist is integral, complementing the bespoke nature of SalonLab&Me,” he explains. “It goes beyond technology; it’s a tailored solution that addresses various scalp conditions with precision and signifies a significant leap forward in promoting scalp health. SalonLab&Me isn’t just an innovation; it’s a testament to our dedication to delivering the best for our clients.”

“This innovation not only broadens our revenue streams but also breathes new life into our retail strategy, offering clients precisely tailored homecare recommendations wrapped up in personalised packaging and fragrances” DANIEL GRANGER

Dare to be different – get hyper-personal with your clients with the help of SalonLab&Me and Schwarzkopf Professional. To discover more, visit schwarzkopfpro.com @schwarzkopfprouk CREATIVE HEAD

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Maleeka Robb,

FOUR London, Mayfair With ‘professional-only’ brands now being sold via consumer retail outfits, the word ‘professional’ doesn’t seem to mean much! It feels that professional hair salons, who have always supported these once ‘salon only’ products, no longer have an edge on the retail market. Product sales in salons offer another income stream for business, but if clients can go online and buy elsewhere – possibly at a discounted price – then they’re not going to buy from salons as they once did.

We’ve always looked for forward-thinking companies who work with our ethos of being sustainable, paraben-free, organic, refillable, and planet-friendly. We could see the way the market was heading and preferred to align ourselves, where possible and practical, with businesses that are still committed to the professional hairdresser and salon.

From day one of opening our salon 13 years ago, we never tied ourselves to any one name. We retained our right to choose professional products that provided the best colour results and aftercare – that was really important to us.

When we started our retail shop FOUR Life, it allowed us to support smaller, newer, independent brands. We remain committed to professional brands that work for our clients, such as La Biosthétique and L’Anza, and with many smaller brands now investing in professional colour, the hair market is changing.

Oliver Blackaby,

The Hair Salon, Brighton After nearly three years of trading, I feel like I have a clear vision for the future. I’ve made the decision to refresh the brands I work with. I have taken on DAVROE, which is 100 per cent vegan and cruelty free, plus all bottles are made of recycled plastic. We sell high quality brands with a strong ethical story, representing the salon ethos, and what’s great for the guests is you get more for your buck. These are in 300ml bottles rather than 250ml, and a good price that won’t change the commission for the salon team. The brand is new to the UK, can only be bought in salon, and it isn’t discounted anywhere else, so it’s safeguarding salon profit, especially with professional brands going on the high street.

Relationships with distribution companies are key. We’re lucky enough to be working with Hampshire-based Wonderful Life, which covers Sussex and Kent too. As a smaller business, it’s personal and we’re collaborating on teaching two cutting courses at its academy. This will help expand our education profile and reach, great for our exposure in education moving forward. We will be celebrating our third birthday this April and we’re planning a celebration. It’s a great opportunity to mark the salon going from strength to strength through tough times, and to thank our guests and our team.

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IA L CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR

Keune’s fl agship salon and academy space

JOIN THE REVOLUTION

For more than 100 years, the Keune family business has been hair.

Isn’t it time you joined a legacy of professional brilliance?

Things move pretty fast, especially in the world of hair, where trends evolve at lightning pace. Yet for the past century, Keune Haircosmetics has stood as a stalwart salon supporter, unwavering in its commitment to the professional hairdresser.

The story of Keune is a testament to the power of familial bonds and a dedication to craftsmanship. It all started in 1922 with Jan Keune, a pharmacist from Amsterdam. Today, it’s run by Jan’s son and grandson – a true family business with a hair heritage that can’t be matched. This is a family that is fuelling a revolution, empowering hair businesses with innovative formulas, inspiring education and an unwavering dedication to support the professional and their businesses… many of which are family run, just like Keune itself.

And those ranks keep getting stronger as more salons join forces to build the businesses they dream of!

“Keune is 100 per cent loyal to the industry and has been for more than a century.

And the colour is incredible!”

JAYSON GRAY, AKA KARBON KYD, UK COLOUR VISIONARY ARTIST The company’s commitment to excellence is mirrored in its portfolio of products, meticulously crafted to meet the diverse needs of hairdressers and their clients. From vibrant colour lines to innovative care and styling wonders for you to retail, Keune’s formulations illustrate its dedication to innovation while staying true to its roots. Keune balances its ever-present understanding of beauty and client behaviour with holding fast as a beacon of consistency. And it isn’t stopping there; Keune is now B Corp certified as part of the company’s wider mission of caring for people and planet, as it continues to invest in moving towards a more sustainable future. That’s a partner you can trust to support and grow your business with…

Want to partner with an avid supporter of the pro, people and the planet? Then talk to Keune – scan the QR code or visit keune.com/uk @keuneuk CREATIVE HEAD

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BUILD A BETTER BUSINESS

ON STAGE HAYLEY JEPSON THE RESILIENT HAIRDRESSER TALKING ABOUT BATTLING BURN-OUT

Meet Listen Learn Debate Discover Come and be inspired

ON STAGE JORDAN MASSARELLA & BEN JONES MASSARELLA & JONES TALKING ABOUT HONING A HOME-FROMHOME CLIENT SPACE

ON STAGE NEIL MACLEAN NEIL MACLEAN HAIR STUDIO TALKING ABOUT YOUNG RECRUITS – HOW TO FIND, TRAIN AND RETAIN THEM

ON STAGE TOM SMITH HAIRSTYLIST AND TREND FORECASTER

ON STAGE MADDI COOK BOSS YOUR SALON

TALKING ABOUT TRANSFORMATIVE SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGY

TALKING ABOUT BOOSTING PROFITS

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON AND BARBER SHOP OWNERS AND MANAGERS Discover more at creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart Headline sponsor

Software partner

Profitability partner

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24/01/2024 11:42

Real experiences shared New ideas explored Big topics discussed

ON STAGE SAMANTHA CUSICK SAMANTHA CUSICK LONDON/ STĀ STUDIOS TALKING ABOUT DIVERSIFYING YOUR BUSINESS

ON STAGE BEN LIFTON CONTENT KWEENS TALKING ABOUT TRANSFORMATIVE SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGY

ON STAGE ALISON MCRITCHIE THE HEAD GARDENER TALKING ABOUT DOING POSITIVE SOCIAL GOOD

ON STAGE WINNIE AWA ENTREPRENEUR AND TEXTURED HAIR EXPERT TALKING ABOUT THE UNTAPPED TEXTURE MARKET

Monday 18 March 2024 9.30am until 5.30pm The Chain and Buoy Store, London

TICKETS £95 + VAT* Book your place today at creativeheadmag.com/store *Includes access to the full event agenda, a hot lunch, refreshment breaks, and gifts from our sponsors.

Terms and conditions apply. It is not possible to attend Salon Smart if you are a product brand or distributor or an independent marketer (unless you have sponsorship affiliation), see the website for details

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24/01/2024 11:42

Photography by Josh Olins

PROFILE

“THE PERFECTION OF IMPERFECTION IS AN INCREDIBLE THING” Crowned Most Wanted Hair Icon 2023, session legend Duffy was left “shellshocked” by such validation from his peers and the industry. The go-to hair lead for labels such as Alaïa, Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta, he tells Amanda Nottage about his early days as an apprentice at Vidal Sassoon, and how in the ever-evolving and fast-paced world of fashion, his team is vital to his collaborative process

Creative HEAD: How did your career in hair begin?

Duffy: At the age of 12 I got a job on a Saturday at a local barber shop next to the bookies that my dad used to go to. £10 a day to sweep up, a 12-hour day. Then I needed to sort work experience and I was like, ‘Five days of work experience means 50 quid, happy days!’ And my mum said: “Not a chance! You’re going to London.”

I applied to Vidal Sassoon and got a week’s work experience, so got the train up to London when I was 13. And it was quite a mad salon that one on Floral Street, there was Joseph, Agnes B. It was lively, and it just made sense to me. Why would I want to go back to school? At Vidal Sassoon I was treated like an adult, I was expected

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to behave like an adult. I had to achieve every day, and that for me is not just hairdressing, that’s apprenticeships across the board.

You’re taught a work ethic, and that your effort reaps rewards.

When I left school at 15, my first pay cheque at Vidal Sassoon as a full-time assistant was £40 a week for four days in-salon and a day in the training school. And my train from Surrey was £48 a week, so my parents helped me and I worked odd jobs. I did four days of greeting clients, sweeping the floor, cleaning the toilets, washing the bowls, taking the laundry out… but the reward was I got to watch these incredible hairdressers cut hair. And then one day a week, I got to learn a skill.

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i-D, Spring 2023 Photography by David Sims

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Backstage at Haider Ackermann, A/W20 Photography by Max Hoell

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PROFILE CH: How did that kid working at Sassoon start his adventure into session?

D: I met Eugene Souleiman – he was in my friend’s clothes shop in Covent Garden buying some expensive Japanese denim – and he opened the door to a whole other world of hairdressing. “What do you mean you live in New York and you fly here?” – I had no idea what he did, but he was this incredibly alive character.

I was at the Seven Dials branch of Sassoon, and Beverly Streeter [from the agency Streeters] rang the front desk. They said it was my mum! “Duffy darling, it’s Beverly. Eugene told me to call, he’s got a show.” I phoned in sick! The show was Hussein Chalayan, and I specifically remember this crazy Frenchman with a Mohican or something, standing on a chair with a clipboard and a stopwatch around his neck. He gave this speech to all the models on how to walk, how to embrace the energy of the show. Everybody cheered and the show started…

CH: So that was it – a session career awaited?

D: Well, I finished my apprenticeship and thought, ‘hang on, there’s got to be more to this’. I was cutting old ladies’ hair, making 600 quid a month. So, I left hairdressing and London. I thought that it just wasn’t for me. I got in a van and I drove around Europe for two years snowboarding. I came back and was working in my best mate’s mum’s cheese factory in Camberwell, and on the weekends I was driving a van for an antique store. It was the best time, skating every night with a couple of cans of beer with my mates. And then a friend rang, “I’m opening a barber shop, we’re looking for staff...”

An old friend of mine came into the barber shop and asked me to cut some guy’s hair for a picture for GQ. They wanted a Nike ‘swoosh’ in the side. I was like, ‘oh, interesting’. Then I did a couple of other little things with him, and I’d met a few people, kind of East London, cool, i-D, Dazed crowd. Then my girlfriend started working as a styling assistant, and I was like, ‘Let’s just give this a go’.

CH: How seriously did you take it this time? Could you see a career unfolding?

D: I was maybe 20 or 21, and I ran into Eugene. He was living in New York still, his assistant had just left and he asked me to come to New York, to work with him. I thought it was cool, and asked him to book the tickets. He said: “No, you book the ticket, you move to New York. And once you’re here, you can work on the team.” So I said, “I’m not doing that!” But six months later, he asked me to join him again, this time in Italy. I asked: “Can I bring a mate because your team’s really scary?!” They were the best hairdressers in the world – Angelo Seminara, Rudi Lewis, Raphael Salley, Johnny Sarpong, Martin Cullen – they’re legends!

These were the people that I was able to learn from under Eugene’s team and so James Rowe and I took our skateboards, booked some EasyJet flights and flew to Milan! We didn’t sleep for two weeks. And if we did sleep, James and I were sharing a bed or sleeping on the floor of a friend, skating between shows because we couldn’t afford cabs. Incredible times, I learnt so much.

Interview, August 2016, Photography by Patrick Demarchelier Prada A/W22 campaign Photography by David Sims

CH: Fast forward to last September… how did it feel when your name was called out as the 2023 Most Wanted Hair Icon at Tate Modern?

D: I didn’t know what to say. I’d like to think I don’t have an ego. I for sure do, sadly.

It felt like I’d achieved something. To have an industry say, ‘Congratulations, you’ve done pretty well’, was quite mega. Us session hairdressers wake up every day and you’re your own boss, you go to work and you try to forge your own path in what you do. Or you just turn up, which is what I’ve pretty much done for the last 20 years, turn up and see what the day brings you. But to understand that people are paying attention, that I’m doing something right, was amazing. And my son’s really proud. He took the trophy to school!

CH: You made a point of saying a big thank you to your team…

D: Oh, it’s all about the team, particularly Lukas Tralmer, who’s now going out on his own; Dale Delaporte; Paddy McDougall and Laurence Walker. I can turn up to a show, be the best hairdresser in the business, but if I’ve got 75 or 85 models

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PROFILE in Milan as I did for Bottega Veneta, and each one of them needs the nuance of that personality, I need my team. And if my team aren’t happy, if they don’t feel appreciated or acknowledged, if they don’t feel like they have a voice, then there’s no point in me trying to continue doing the job I’m doing.

The last season that I worked with Eugene, I think we did 29 shows in three cities, and you turned up and you did that show. Now, the expectation is huge. They have a lookbook being shot backstage. They have first looks, they have TikTok, they have Instagram, they have video. And shows are becoming more adventurous. You might have four hours, and the rehearsal ends up being two hours. So, then you’ve got to get four kids through each chair in two hours.

i-D, Autumn 2016 Photography by Mario Sorrenti

Raf Simons, S/S23 Photography by Goldie Williams

Backstage at Rick Owens, A/W16 50

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CH: How would you describe your aesthetic? And which environment speaks to you more – the live show, the set?

D: I’ve built my career through mishaps and mistakes in a way. The perfection of imperfection is an incredible thing. On my journey to find perfection, I found something else I loved, which was imperfection in classicism. You’re trying to achieve something incredibly beautiful and classic, but once you get there, you’ve seen it already. It’s not new, it’s not evolved. So, the evolution came in either making something perfect, and taking it apart afterwards, or the journey there.

You can make a perfect silhouette, then as you’re undoing it in front of the camera, you suddenly see something like a shape that is so abstract. So let’s explore that. Let’s take a couple of frames, let me put a bit of wind in it, pull it apart a bit more. Let’s capture those moments because a show is instantaneous. But at a show, you’re presenting the reality, in three dimensions. If they’re wearing wigs and the audience is sitting on the floor, they’re looking up under the hairline – you’ve got to take it all into consideration. But when you’re in a studio working two dimensionally, there’s so much fakery that you can build and create. That is where that personal joy comes from. You can do the same silhouette on three different people, and you get a completely different result.

CH: How do you keep yourself firing on all cylinders?

D: I can’t tell you there’s a super-rare book I look at in those times. My inspiration comes from my team, and from the creative environment, the creative team. They all bring something to the table and it’s my job and their job individually to puzzle it together. Anthony Turner said in i-D magazine, and I’ll probably misquote him: “After craft, it becomes only about taste”.

That hit the nail on the head. We can all be the best technical hairdresser – and everyone should try and be able to do those things – but after that point, what sets you apart is down to taste. And taste is evolving, my taste changes all the time.

I don’t think the hair I do now is anything like the hair I did 20 years ago, when I didn’t have a team to do everything. I look back at some of those pictures and they’re brilliant, but they’re totally different. We naturally evolve as creative people, so we do lose and gain clients. Sometimes we have lulls and it’s the same for me – because at the level that we are all aspiring to work at it, it becomes about taste.

CH: It can be a punishing schedule in session. Do you still enjoy it all?

D: I feel incredibly blessed to have been given so many opportunities. I’ve seen the world by the age of 45, I’ve met every person I could ever wish to meet. The world that this industry has offered me is unlike any other world I could have ever imagined. So yes, I enjoy it. Maybe sometimes not as much because it can be exhausting. It can be monotonous sometimes – flight, car, hotel, studio, hotel, car, hotel – but that’s also part of the game.

But like Guido said, and I might misquote him too: “I still feel nervous going to work every day”. And that is the most important thing. The day I stop feeling nervous walking into a studio is the day when all the other stuff that goes with it doesn’t really make sense anymore. Because if I’m not pushing myself and my team, and I’m just taking a pay cheque and having supper in a nice hotel, it doesn’t add up. There’s something wrong.

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Backstage at Sies Marjan, A/W20 Photography by Max Hoell

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Amelia Evans, HARE & BONE. STYLING Masha Mombelli. MAKE-UP Faye Marie.

SEE MORE

AT FROM THE SHOOT NOW M .CO AG DM EA CREATIVEH

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Phorest chief executive Ronan Perceval Keith Barry (left)

Geno Stampora

Nina Tulio

Hosted at the Royal Dublin Convention Centre, Phorest’s annual Salon Owners Summit marked the software provider’s 20th business anniversary. And what a way to celebrate! More than 600 salon owners took an inspirational and immersive deep dive into the latest industry trends and opportunities, while learning about new technological innovations, too. The line-up of speakers was impressive: Sharmadean Reid MBE, founder of WAH Nails and women’s empowerment platform The Stack World, focused on ensuring salon owners maximise their client data. Sharing their own journey of gender transition, PhorestFM host, Alex Bélisle-Springer, called for salon and spa owners to consider the supportive role their businesses can play for their clients. David Meade discussed the impact of soft skills such as body language, US duo Geno Stampora and Nina Tulio delivered a motivational start to the year, and Phorest’s Rich Cullen and Verna Wall shared success stories from the salon floor. Oh, and let’s not forget an interactive session by TV hypnotist Keith Barry, who focused on how neuro-linguistic programming uses thoughts, feelings, and language to understand your team and customers. Phorest also welcomed event partner and colour management software firm Vish to the event… and you can catch them both at Salon Smart 2024! For more details, turn to p44.

David Meade

PHOREST SALON OWNERS SUMMIT

Alex Bélisle-Springer

Sharmadean Reid MBE

THE EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT

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24/01/2024 11:47

Headmasters Fitzrovia Texture Image Award winner Daniella Fowler, Headmasters Sutton

Headmasters Artistic Team Flavio Iacurti Nikolay Karpin

Headmasters Fitzrovia scooped the Salon of the Year award as the salon chain revealed its big winners of 2023 at London Evolution, with a carnival-themed event attended by more than 800 team members.

The night began with a hair show celebrating the evolution of society’s definition of beauty by the Headmasters Artistic Team, led by creative ambassadors Clare Hansford and Sian Couldridge.

The awards – hosted by Iain Stirling, comedian and the voice of TV’s Love Island – followed.

Flavio Iacurti from Headmasters Guildford won Busiest Stylist as Davide Simmaco (Headmasters Paddington) took Busiest Retailer, and Nikolay Karpin (Headmasters Twickenham) was named Busiest Colourist. Charity Salon of the Year was nabbed by Headmasters Surbiton, while Digital Salon of the Year went to Headmasters Cobham.

The climax was a live raffle, where every colour appointment in 2023 earned stylists a ticket and a chance to win £10,000 to spend at Selfridges.

Barber Image Award winner Lou Newton, Headmasters Kingston

HEADMASTERS HM AWARDS 2023

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THE LAST WORD ON… THINGS FALL APART, IT’S INEVITABLE. BUT IT’S HOW YOU RESPOND TO FAILURE AND GROW FROM IT THAT WILL LEAD TO SUCCESS

That fuzzy feeling when you attract a new client, turn a lovely profit, or receive a pat on the back for a job well done… it’s great, isn’t it? But life can’t be all good news. We humans are bound to take a wrong step and face failure at various points.

Instead of seeing failure as the bogeyman of business, see opportunities for improvement, suggests Gina Conway, owner of Gina Conway Aveda Salon and Spa. “I had to close two locations after lockdown. But I looked at the positives. I had more time and energy to put into one salon and academy, and breathed fresh life into it. Knowing what I know now, and after many ups and downs, I feel I’m in the best professional place in my life.”

Failure can be used as a litmus test to figure out whether you’re on the right track in your business. “Sometimes, the world isn’t quite ready, and it’s telling you to listen harder and make some changes,” adds Gina.

Ben Lifton, founder of social media marketing brand Content Kweens, marketing services firm UGC Creators, and a speaker at this year’s Salon Smart, advises to check if what you’re experiencing is actually failure… “or does the thing we wanted not serve us anymore”? If it is failure, sit with the feeling as “only once we feel it, can we start to move through it”. Then he advises to process that but “don’t look back and regret”, because that leads to resentment. Afterwards, “identify what influenced us to end up where we are now”, then finally learn and take that learning forward.

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FAILURE

Perceived failures can leave everyone in a business feeling deflated. But at hair and beauty salon Fringe Benefits in Gloucester, owner Marina Hodgins employs a positive approach to turn things around. “When team members have left and taken their clientele, which has a detrimental effect on turnover and team morale, we dust ourselves off and start again,” she says.

“We contact clients to offer an alternative team member that they would be suited to, offering a bonus such as a free reconditioning treatment to demonstrate how we value their support. This helps to grow a team member, boosting confidence.”

Constant success could lead to complacency. Failures, on the other hand, encourage business leaders to stand up and fight.

In the case of Fiona Canning Allen, owner of Ark-i-tec Hair in Bradford, failure wasn’t the end “but a stepping stone to growth”.

“I’ve learnt to adapt and seek support to navigate the evolving landscape of salon ownership,” she admits. “Through these experiences I’ve become resilient, determined to flourish even amid challenges, and focused on fostering a salon environment where both clients and staff thrive.”

Unless you’re superhuman, failure is an inevitable occurrence in your career. When faced with it, listen to these voices above and unpack them first. Use the experience to grow, learn and get better. Once a positive analysis of your perceived failure has had its use, move on with your chin up, head up, and heart full…

CREATIVE HEAD

25/01/2024 11:38

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