€7.50 MARCH/APRIL 2020
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MARCH/APRIL 2020 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
g n i l f g n i r Sp NEW SEASON STYLE
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To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST
Editor’s letter
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JOIN US! IT FEELS LIKE this winter has been particularly long, but finally we’re seeing the first signs of spring. I don’t know about you, but this is one of the most exciting times of year for me – nature seems to wake up and each day brims with possibility. We’ve tried to harness that positive energy in this issue and bring you the most exciting inspiration and trends for the new season. On page 36 you can find the Colour Forecast, where our experts predict the shades clients will be craving for S/S20. There are also exciting developments on page 32, where we hear all about the new National Hairdressing Apprenticeship, which promises to revitalise the industry and entice young people into this rewarding career path. And don’t forget to enter the Most Wanted and The It List Awards – it’s the second year that all categories are open to hairdressers and salon owners from Ireland. Turn to page 24 for details, start creating your entry and make this the year that you head to London and come back with a trophy. Best of luck!
Anna Samson, Editor
anna@alfol.co.uk
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Happy MWIT launch month! Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted and The It List Awards are back and open for entries, with new and refreshed categories and a 20th birthday to celebrate. Will you see your name in lights in 2020? See page 24. The Coterie’s off to Edinburgh on 16 March, with a cast of creatives in tow. Turn to page 34 for details. Finally, salon owners and managers across the UK, this is your final call for tickets to Salon Smart (London, 29 to 30 March). The agenda’s packed, the line-up’s pumped – are you ready to take your business to the next level? creativeheadmag.com/events
@creativeheadmag
19/02/2020 10:34
EXCLUSIVE TO HENNESSY HAIR & BEAUTY
Hennessy Hair & Beauty Ltd - THE PROFESSIONAL CHOICE
Cash & Carry: Unit 28 Doughcloyne Ind. Estate, Sarsfield Road, Wilton, Cork
www.hennessyhb.ie 021 4343436
Rituales de belleza Reps BRIAN 086 2500788 or KIERAN on 086 3837383
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March/April
WHAT’S INSIDE
RISING STAR
David Boardman from Dylan Bradshaw talks dreams and opportunities
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ON THE COVER Hair by Great Lengths. Artistic direction by Rossano Ferretti. Photography by Alessandro Molinari.
SCENE
The L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio team bubbles up at Fashion in Motion
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FASHION
Queen Dublin blends classic cuts with contemporary finishes
EDITOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
CONTRIBUTOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ANNA SAMSON DEBORAH MURTHA
COMMERCIAL EDITOR EVE WAGSTAFF
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
EVA VESTMANN
KELSEY DRING
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
ALISON ROWLEY
EDITOR IN CHIEF
JENNY BROOKS
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
AMANDA NOTTAGE
creativeheadmag.com
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DAVID HAMMOND
creativeheadmagofficial
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.
WRITE TO US AT:
Creative HEAD Ireland 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND +44 20 7324 7540 anna@alfol.co.uk
@creativeheadmag
19/02/2020 15:02
WEEKENDHAIR Dry Shampoo
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06/02/2020 13:34
Olivia Rubin Bora Aksu
CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED Awards will be celebrating its 20th birthday this year – what a year to see your name in lights! In a new move for 2020, the Best New Salon category has been reborn to challenge entrants from the UK and Ireland to illustrate a commitment to sustainability by demonstrating how eco principles have been incorporated into a new salon launch or a total revamp. Meanwhile, The It List brings a brand-new award to the trophy table – The Editorial Stylist – directed at a young hairdresser who turns heads on set for projects such as magazine shoots, music videos, live events and runway shows. The Most Wanted and The It List Awards are the only industry competitions to embrace the salon, business and sessions worlds, celebrating skills and achievements across 20 categories. Finalists will battle it out for titles that will change the course of their careers. You have until 13 May to get your entries in, with finalists revealed at creativeheadmag. com on 10 June. This year’s 700-strong Grand Final will be held at a landmark London venue on Monday 7 September, the biggest birthday bash of the decade. More will be revealed – sign up to receive updates at creativeheadmag.com/newsletter.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
20 YEARS OF MAGIC AT MOST WANTED!
Images courtesy of Dyson, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel and Wella Professionals
Erdem
The edit
Fashion Week round-up AT LONDON FASHION WEEK, top hairdressers let their creativity run wild, setting trends for A/W20 and beyond. Over at Bora Aksu, the muse was Swedish abstract artist and mystic, Hilma af Klint. Daniel Martin for L’Oréal Professionnel got busy with the Steampod 3.0 to create Pre-Raphaelite hair, styling flat waves that felt super airy. Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals crafted an ear-framing take on a multi-textured ponytail at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, with clothes inspired by the ’70s classic Don’t Look Now (including the film’s signature red mackintosh), the finished look was girly and romantic with an off-kilter twist. OG supermodel Jerry Hall was the inspiration for the playful ’80s look at Olivia Rubin, where ghd UK brand ambassador Zoë Irwin created swoops of cascading curls using the new ghd helios hairdryer for soft volume. Erdem found inspiration in Sir Cecil Beaton’s photography, where the roaring ’20s were in full effect. 2019 Most Wanted Session Stylist, Anthony Turner, used up to half a tube of L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Fix Max gel on each model to create the signature finger waves of the era. The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition was used to set everything in place. The Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase was a star-studded event, celebrating the 20th anniversary of its partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel. It was all hands on deck backstage, with Richard Phillipart’s L’Oréal Professionnel Porfolio Team prepping a staggering 106 models.
TRAINEES SHINE AT ZEBA CATWALK SHOWCASE 2020
2020
FOR ALL THE DETAILS, turn to page 24
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YOUNGSTERS FROM ALL four Zeba salons came together in Dublin to celebrate their achievements and explore trends. Trainees were each invited to design a moodboard themed around ‘The Next Big Thing’, and create a hair look to reflect their trend. The winner of the competition was Andrea Lucacia, a fourth-year trainee at the Zeba salon at Arnott’s in Dublin. Nicole O’Sullivan was placed second and in third place was Kayleigh Kavanagh. Zeba Hairdressing’s Trainee of the Year Award was named as Cassie Mohan, who is now in her second year of training. The showcase was judged by Angie Dromgoole, director and educator at Zeba; Kevin Heavin, manager of Zeba Hairdressing Sandymount; and Patricia Strachan, education manager at L’Oréal Professionnel.
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#CHedit NEW CULT TEAM REVEALED
MY months
AHEAD
SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL HAS revealed its new Cult Team, a group of six stylists who will now enjoy an 18-month mentoring programme covering topics such as photographic skills, wig making and creative hair skills. The team is, pictured from left: Samantha March (Twist Hair), Stephanie Gallagher (Wonderland), Sam Millard (Avant Garde), Gemma Noon (The Vinery Hair Salon), Hannah Grogan (Foundation) and Luigi Altomonte (Fratelli Hair).
What March and April have in store for... JUSTIN CASEY JUSTIN CASEY
I have designed a bespoke education programme combining the things I have loved most about colouring and styling hair, called Justin Casey Education. I can’t wait to inspire other artists to step outside their comfort zone and learn from the programme I’ve designed.
L’Oréal launches Bachelor’s degree in hairdressing L’Oréal is opening ‘Real Campus, by L’Oréal’ in Paris, the first school to award a Bachelor’s degree in Hairdressing and Entrepreneurship. The degree is part of a mission to make hairdressing more appealing to talented young people, with technical training covered alongside management, customer care and digital skills. “We are excited to learn from this pilot in Paris and look forward to exploring future opportunities,” said Béatrice Dautzenberg, managing director of L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland.
INNOVATION AND UNITY CELEBRATED AT ASP
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COLOUR ZONE, HUGH CAMPBELL GROUP
I am taking a trip to Barcelona for two days of training with the L’Oréal ID Artists and meeting the guest artists who will be working with us for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Tour. Alongside all this, I’ll also be taking the time back in the salon to look after my amazing clients.
CLUB
Unity collection
ag.com/club creativeheadm
Tracey Devine-Smith
GUESTS FROM INDIA, the US and all over Europe converged on the UK to celebrate at the ASP Luxury Haircare 2020 Distributor Conference. The two-day event shared news and distributor updates, and was a chance for ASP Affinage Salon Professional to showcase new product innovations, including the new ASP INFINITI colour range. ASP global ambassador, Tracey Devine-Smith, presented a show themed around a living shade guide to demonstrate INFINITI’s colour palette, including the new b:Brown range. In addition, there was a presentation on a new loyalty programme and the ASP Awards. A hair show by Tracey DevineSmith and the ASP Art Team – The Colour Rebels also showcased its latest collection, Unity.
EMMA MARCEY
JOIN US! Become a member of the Creative HEAD Club and get six issues of the magazine for £10, along with the chance to win opportunities and exclusive giveaways.Visit creativeheadmag.com/store for more details 09
19/02/2020 11:45
#CHedit WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME A HAIRDRESSER? My mother raised me alone and she had her own hair salon, so my passion began there – it drew me towards hair. I then got my first job with David Murray in Chameleon Salon in Drogheda. I worked there for three years and discovered that this is really what I wanted to do. I moved to Dylan Bradshaw on South William Street and completed my training and now I work as a stylist. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? My highlights so far have been joining Dylan Bradshaw and qualifying after two years. I also won a place on the IHF Gents Star Team. I received more than €10,000-worth of education which has created some amazing opportunities. Having John Keegan as a mentor during the year helped me develop and grow my barbering skills. It really brought so much to the past year as I was in a course almost every week. Dylan has given me many opportunities and been an inspiring mentor to me.
DAVID BOARDMAN AGE 25 SALON DYLAN BRADSHAW
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would love to become more involved in education both in the salon and outside. I hope to be able to enter as many competitions as possible and to continue to build up my portfolio, working on all types of hair. I will take whatever opportunity that comes my way to develop myself and expand my skillset. Of course, these opportunities only come along by putting yourself out there and working hard to achieve your goals. WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM GIG IN HAIRDRESSING? It would be a dream come true to work at a major Fashion Week – styling hair in this type of atmosphere would be a very humbling experience. Picking up a Most Wanted Award would also be a huge achievement. 10
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THE BUSINESS EDIT
WHAT’S IN A
NAME? WHETHER IT’S ON a sign above your shop or popping up as a tag on Instagram, your salon’s name is the first time potential customers encounter your brand – so it’s important to get it absolutely right. But how do successful salons pick a successful salon name? “Salon names are so important as they need to convey your salon brand and image – they need to describe what you are as a salon and what you want clients to think about you,” explains Leandro Santana Santos, owner of Decode Hair by Leandro in Dublin. “This is something that was very important when choosing my salon name. Decode comes from decoding client needs, and what I’ve learned in my hairdressing journey is that we spend a long time telling the clients how amazing we are and very little time listening to what they really want. “At Decode we wanted to maximise the ‘decoding’ experience by getting details and information from the client with a good consultation that can avoid a lot mistakes in future appointments.” Michelle Grimes, owner of Maven Hair Studio in Dublin, agrees that your salon name will tell potential clients what they can expect from your business. “What you call your business is so important as it represents you, your vibe, your position and how you want to be perceived. I wanted something modern and unusual but not contrived – something that made people think or wonder about it,” she says. “When I first opened my studio I didn’t have a name for it. I was watching America’s Next Top Model and someone on it was described as a ‘PR maven’. I had never heard the word before and when I looked up the meaning I knew that it was exactly the name I was looking for.”
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HENSHÍN in Limerick also uses a name that encapsulates the salon’s philosophy. “It’s a Japanese word meaning transformation, and our sustainable hair and make-up bars encapsulate transformation as a whole,” explains owner Gareth Bromell. “There are the specific services we offer, and also the way both hairdressers and clients now look at being sustainable with products, services and décor – transforming how we now approach the hair and make-up industry. “The name is important for a successful business because we want the client to feel like they are making a difference. It’s a change for them personally, with hair and make-up, and on a global level in terms of sustainability.” However, plenty still believe using their own name for a business has the best impact. The co-owners of Kelly Leung Hair Design in Malahide took this approach as a starting point, and made it their own. “Choosing the name for our salon was one of the easiest and quickest decisions my fellow co-owner Beth Kelly and I made when we decided to join forces,” says Emma Leung. “It’s our surnames joined together – simple and effective! We wanted something strong but that didn’t point directly at us as co-owners. My surname is unusual in Ireland so it stands out and also makes my father very proud!’’ Sometimes salons change names, too. Karine Jackson recently revised her business moniker to highlight her eco credentials. “When I started my business 16 years ago, I decided that using my name was the best choice,” she says. “We have recently updated to Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair and Beauty. It reflects the work I’ve been doing to create a plastic-free salon with sustainability at its heart.”
LIFE LESSONS
SARAH MASON
SARAH MASON PROFESSIONAL Set and plan goals. I feel I have double vision both as a creative and a business woman. While I am heavily involved with Wella Professionals on a creative level, I am also involved in an organisation called Network Ireland which keeps me in touch with other women in business. Never ignore your instinct. As clichéd as it may be, in business you have to be intuitive. I am in touch with my surroundings, my team and how I project myself to them. Invest in your own education. Right through my career that has been the key to my success. As a Wella Professionals Guest Artist I like to offer all different forms of education within my teaching skills, but it’s vital for me to seek education from time to time to ensure I deliver the best. Surround yourself with positive people. That for me includes people who share my passion. I am lucky to be surrounded by a super family, a super team and let’s not forget my Wella family, who always bring out the best creative version of me. Energy is extremely contagious!
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Redken Brownlights shampoo and conditioner help brunettes battle unwanted warm tones to keep both coloured and natural hair shining bright.
RRP FROM €20 01 604 5918 redken.co.uk
Kadus Pure Shampoo is vegan, full of goodness and kind to hair, without parabens or silicones – it’s ideal for dry and dull strands.
RRP €8.95 021 434 3436 hennessyhb.ie
New to the OSiS+ Long Hair Texture range comes blow-dry mist Texture Blow and the dry aerosol sugar spray Beach Texture. Ready the #iwokeuplikethis hashtag…
RRP €14.50 EACH +44 800 328 6920 schwarzkopfpro.com
Think customisable, lowcommitment colour sounds GET C R E AT I V E too good to be true? Think again. Your clients can express their personalities without damaging their hair with the new CHROMA ID range from Schwarzkopf Professional. Choose from bonding masks with different levels of colour strength or create pastels with the clear bonding mask. There are even six at-home bonding colour masks, so your client can keep things going. A combination of bonding and low-salt technology minimise damage. From natural, cool blondes to bright pinks and everything in between, you can make their colour dreams come true. IN-SALON SERVICE +44 800 328 6920
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Indulging Fluid Oil, packed with crambe abyssinica seed oil seals split ends, boosts shine and condition for a highgloss, smooth finish.
RRP €35.80 +44 800 328 6920 authenticbeautyconcept.com
Get smooth with K-Respect from milk_shake, an in-salon keratin treatment that eliminates frizz for three to five months, alongside the at-home smoothing shampoo, conditioner and maintainer mist.
RRP FROM €15.39 +44 1392 365 177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
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JOICO Weekend Hair Dry Shampoo revives tired, unwashed hair in seconds, saving precious time and making blow-drys last longer.
RRP €19.95 045 856 490 joico.eu
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New for Great Lengths certified salons and stylists, the vegan and cruelty-free Dolce line by Rossano Ferretti has been specifically created to use with Great Lengths extensions.
RRP FROM €12 0113 278 1292 greatlengthshair.co.uk
Kadus Fiber Infusion Shampoo is infused with keratin to reconstruct damaged hair, and offers gentle cleansing for all hair types.
RRP €11.96 021 434 3436 hennessyhb.ie
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#CHedit
STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Sustainability is more important to customers than ever, so isn’t it time you looked at a greener colour range? New Color Wear by ALFAPARF Milano is a 100 per cent vegan offering that still offers the high performance and beautiful shine you need. There’s a colour for everyone, with a spectrum of 46 shades including violet ash, sand and copper. The patented technology is free from ammonia, alcohol and silicones – instead this colour is full of sweet almond oil, green tea seed oil and argan oil which nourish, protect and prevent frizz as you colour. The gel texture prevents dripping and ensures easy, precise application for an even result. Plus, the new tube packaging is produced using recycled aluminium, cutting CO2 emissions. Color Wear offers up to a 149 per cent increase in shine, and limits colour fade, so the hair looks beautiful for longer. The super-gentle formula leaves hair soft and easy to style, without the damage. To celebrate the launch, ALFAPARF Milano is hosting a series of Color Wear Roadshows across Ireland, featuring Ger Hand, Xpert’s technical manager; and Denise Phillips of PELO Hairdressing. Learn about the opportunities with Color Wear, including grey coverage, toning services and the new colour collections – visit the website for more details.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01 672 5960 xpertpro.ie
IT’S ALL ABOUT... SHIMMERING COLOUR Cool blondes get an upgrade thanks to the four new shades from Illumina Color by Wella Professionals, and there’s a new blonde glazing menu by UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01 416 0900
Luminous, reflective hair which looks naturally perfected – it can only be the new nine-strong INOA Glow collection from L’Oréal Professionnel.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01 604 5918 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
wella.co.uk
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e d i s n I story
THE COLLECTIVE BY LLOYDS WATERFORD
Following great success at the 2019 Most Wanted Awards winning Best Salon Team, Lloyds Hair has rebranded as The Collective by Lloyds and is celebrating with a salon makeover. The look is inspired by Lisa Vanderpump’s bars, restaurants and clubs in LA – which Lloyds owner Danielle Kennedy describes as rustic glam. “We wanted to mix earthy limestone and wood with a generous amount of reflective surfaces,” she explains. “Our salon is a mix of custom builds and items sourced from architectural salvage yards to create points of interest, and the decor always inspires conversations among our clients. Functionality was hugely important, so I designed custom-built stations with hidden product, gown and towel units.” The standout piece is a 15-foot long limestone bench, while upcycled church pews repurposed as railings around the backwashes offer another talking point. And the salon’s unique layout encourages visitors to linger and enjoy a refreshment. “Our waiting area is styled like a cafe with a selfservice tea and coffee bar,” adds Danielle.
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2019
HOT BUYS PICK AND MIX
Customise the Welonda Vida Chair so it works for your space – choose from four bases, fixed and adjustable backrests and more than 40 colours. FROM €660+VAT 045 856 490 welonda.com
CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND
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MAKE IT A DOUBLE
The REM Capri Styling Unit has a stylish curved design and is available as a single or double unit, to maximise your space. €630+VAT 021 434 3436 hennessyhb.ie
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19/02/2020 11:27
COLOUR VISION WE’RE DREAMING OF GOLDEN TONES AND FRESH SHADES FOR SPRING WITH THESE LATEST LOOKS FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS IN ASSOCIATION WITH
GOLDEN DAZE
It’s the final, finishing touches that make all the difference when it comes to colour. “I won’t let my clients with lightened hair leave the salon without a toning or glazing service,” says Zoë Irwin. As a two-time winner of the Most Wanted Creative Talent Award, we’re inclined to trust her opinions when it comes to next-level finishes. These glazes are a diluted wash of colour that pick up areas of pre-lightened hair and bring them to life. “I’ve lost count of the number of times a client has asked me to leave their pre-lightened hair ‘raw’ because it has that freshly lightened look they want,” she says, “but when I add a bespoke glaze they are amazed at the difference to their colour, at how much more beautiful and premium it looks.”
Inspired by blonde icons Brigitte Bardot and Monica Vitti, and a love of the dreamy haze of ’70s photography, Zoë has created a new blonde glazing menu for Wella Professionals using Illumina Color. Her role as UK colour trend expert is one that allows her to constantly innovate, experimenting with the latest products and tracking interest in numerous other colour fields to predict what’s next in hair. “Illumina Color is my absolute favourite product for glazing to create natural, sheer and luminous hair colour with a soft, diffused look,” she adds.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
It makes hair look really expensive, chic and classy” ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT
“This is my Glazing Contour Technique using Palm Painting, which is the traditional French method. I always use Blondor Freelights to do this. This glaze is Pampelonne Peach, created using Illumina Color 10/1 and Opalessence by Illumina Color Copper Peach” Four new shades have joined the Illumina Color range from Wella Professionals. These shades are set to expand the already much-loved cool blonde range, which uses Microlight technology for a luminous, sheer colour result. It contains Wella Professionals’ most advanced technology to help prevent hair damage, and absolutely no animal-derived ingredients.
10/81 – Great for: lightening natural hair up to 3
levels, neutralisation on warm yellow and orange undertones to achieve clean, sophisticated blondes. Also ideal for toning over pre-lightened hair to achieve icy results
9/19 – Great for: gently neutralising golden hues
“This is my Glazing Balayage technique and the glaze is Sienna Sand, with Illumina Color 9/59 and Opalessence by Illumina Color Platinum Lily” CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND
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when lightening, or to create a soft, icy beige when toning pre-lightened hair. Use on natural hair to achieve natural beige blondes
9/59 – Great for: toning natural hair levels 7 and above for a delicate, warmer raspberry hue
8/93 - Great for: lightening natural hair on
levels 5 and above. Beautiful for toning brunette balayage to maintain soft and natural hair highs
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TOUCH OF BRILLIANCE
GET CREATIVE WITH THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR PORTFOLIO. CREATIVE COLOUR TONING OFFERS LIMITLESS RESULTS WITH COLOR TOUCH Creative colour doesn’t have to mean vivid brights or all-over colour work. Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals technical director UK & Ireland, loves to create subtle shaping with Color Touch for fashion-forward finishes and a healthy-looking finish. “Color Touch is definitely my go-to product when it comes to toning. Being a salon owner, it’s so important to have products that instantly deliver the results we want,” he says. Color Touch is perfect for porous hair post-lifting, as it’s infused with keratin to give everything a high shine and healthy-looking finish. These low-commitment demi-permanent shades are perfect for clients who love to experiment with their looks and shades. “Don’t be scared of toning!” Rob adds. “Don’t remove the colour too soon – you need to allow the pigment to develop to enable maximum colour result and longevity.”
SHARE HOW YOU LIKE TO GET CREATIVE WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR TOUCH, FOR YOUR CHANCE TO BE FEATURED ON @WELLAHAIRUK! #WELLACOLOUR #MAKECHANGE 18
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GOING FOR GOLD THESE COLOUR COURSES FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WILL HAVE EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH TURNING TO GOLD IN MORE WAYS THAT ONE
BLONDE TOOLBOX
COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE
Maximise the potential of your blonde clients by delivering a couture service with perfect results. This advanced craft one-day course will enable you to create personalised blonde shades that attract new clients and keep existing ones excited to come back every time. Learn how to spot those ‘lifestyle’ blonde clients and how to satisfy their colour needs with the potential of the full blonde spectrum. From cool pearls and smoky ashes to warm and vibrant rose golds, discover the products and techniques to create couture blondes. PRICE: €210 Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for dates and further details.
It’s become THE essential service to have on your colour menu – but it remains one of the trickiest skills to master. Take the guesswork out of the craft to focus on perfect balayage creations with this one-day Essential Craft course. It will help to ensure that you can create fashion-focused looks in salon-friendly times. Build your confidence and master the art of the seamless blend. PRICE: €210 Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for dates and further details.
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
#ColourVision
STAR BLONDE EDUCATION PACKAGE
Almost half of all salon clients ask for some form of lightening service, so you need to be ready for any challenge you might face. The Star Blonde package has been crafted to give you all the skills you need to be a rock star when it comes to blondes.
DISCOVER HOUSE OF BLONDOR (Two hours) Complimentary (valued at €100)
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COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE (One day) €210
BLONDE TOOLBOX (One day) €210
ULTIMATE BALAYAGE (One day) €210
STAR BLONDE PACKAGE €505 Actual value €630 – save €125
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SHELFIE TIME My favourite way to lighten hair is freehand using a French balayage technique called Palm Painting, and my secret weapon is definitely Blondor Freelights. I love it because it gives up to seven levels of clean lift and also gives me incredible creativity and precision when I am using my brush, palms and fingers to pre-lighten hair. With the creamy consistency and the way the product spreads so easily, it’s a dream to use. The results leave everybody delighted.” ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
“People’s lives are so busy and so the whole scenario of people not having time to come to the salon means I always feel like I’m having to say to my teams ‘speed up, you’re too slow’. I’m a woman in business with a family and I have lots to do, so I get it, and what we get as a result is people doing their colour at home. That’s always a massive issue for hairdressers because it’s such a nightmare to correct. My message is always about the journey in what we do, and part of that is time management. I think of my clients who previously had time to spare would happily spend all day in the salon. Now, 10 years down the line, those clients have to pick up kids and are much busier, so we really need to be aware of that time issue. Offering express colour services like No Strings Attached Colour for more regular visits, but less time spent in the chair each time, helps. To stop clients from reaching for box dyes, and then having to spend twice as long repairing the colour, we need to put them on a colour journey that they understand. Put the time in at the beginning – and schedule colour appointments in between to maintain it. Once clients start on their journey and are committed then we can do those quick appointments they want.”
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Sanrizz
DOWN THE COUNTRY, EVERY ISSUE WE TACKLE A COLOUR CONUNDRUM WHICH IS FRUSTRATING COLOURISTS UP AND Z TAKES ISSUE WITH TIMING WITH THE HELP OF WELLA’S COLOUR CREATIVE GUEST ARTISTS. SHARON COX FROM SANRIZ
CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND
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WHY I’M WELLA
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
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I chose Wella Professionals as my professional partner because it continually helps me progress and build my brand as a hairdresser and salon owner. Wella delivers on education, high-quality products and is at the forefront of trends and fashion. It continually delivers knowledge and support in all aspects of my hairdressing career, from building my colour business to platforming, showcasing and sharing my creative skills and ideas through the Wella Guest Artist Days. Wella has nurtured a wide family circle around the world. I am a Wella Passionista and I love using social media and the meet-up days to share ideas, inspirations and different techniques.”
Joanne O’Neill Hairdressing
JOANNE O’NEILL JOANNE O’NEILL HAIRDRESSING AND WELLA IRELAND GUEST ARTIST
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Wella Professionals
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4 NEW ILLUMINA COLOR SHADES TO EXPAND YOUR COOL BLONDE PORTFOLIO
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NO BLONDE LEFT UNTONED Hair by Zoe Irwin, Wella Professionals Colour Trends Expert
MW IT20
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2020
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SALON | SESSION | STARS
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2020
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Sam Burnett Hare & Bone
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Ken West 3•6•5 Education
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Mark Maciver and the SliderCuts team
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CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS
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WHETHER YOU RUN a single salon or are at the helm of a chain, you’re probably all too familiar with the struggles of staffing – especially when it comes to attracting new, young workers. But the new National Hairdressing Apprenticeship, launched in collaboration with Limerick and Clare Education & Training Board, offers a way to get fresh blood into salons and give aspiring stylists the training they need and deserve. In 2017 The Apprenticeship Council approved a proposal for an Irish apprenticeship submitted by The Hairdressing
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Council of Ireland and learning and development training network Image Skillnet. Following this green light, a series of consultations were held around Ireland. Entitled ‘Shaping the Future’, these events invited hairdressing experts to discuss the new apprenticeship and what it should involve. By the end of 2019, the National Hairdressing Apprenticeship Consortium Steering Group saw its apprenticeship programme formally validated and launched in Ireland. Hairdressing apprentices will take part in a programme
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that includes college and in-salon education and supports employers in developing their apprentices. The nationally recognised certification will give participants the opportunity to work towards a Quality Qualifications Ireland Level 6 qualification over a minimum of three years. The apprenticeship has been welcomed by many in the industry, especially those who wanted to see standards set for hairdressing training and the career path promoted. “Until now, there has been no regulation for the training of new stylists coming into salons or a recognised qualification for their hard work,” explains Bridget Haren, the owner of Bridget Haren Hair and Beauty in Ennis, Co. Clare, the first salon to sign up to the new programme. “This apprenticeship will create consistency in national standards for Irish hairdressing as it blends college and in-salon education in a structured learning programme. It will also attract people of all ages who previously considered a career in hairdressing but didn’t pursue it as there was no formal qualification.” She continues: “Without a recognised qualification in hairdressing, the industry has been forgotten as a career path for students completing their Leaving Certificate. But newly trained young people entering the workforce in salons helps to keep everyone on-trend and hungry for improving their skills. Young people create a healthy competition that elevates the industry as a whole.” For hairdressers who want to invest in an apprentice, there is a process in place with SOLAS, the Irish state agency in charge of promoting further education. Aidan Fitzgerald, owner of Aidan Fitzgerald Hair Salon in Blackrock, and ambassador to the Generation Apprenticeship competition, explains: “Employers must register with SOLAS for the apprenticeship. A senior training adviser will meet with the employer at the salon to complete an application form and will process it with SOLAS on behalf of the employer. Once the salon receives approval, they can take on an apprentice by completing a registration form.” Although he welcomes the apprenticeship, Aidan does note that the financial implications of taking on apprentices will be significant. “It will be a challenging year,” he says. “The new National Minimum Wage has increased to €10.10 per hour, and any apprentice 20 years old or over is entitled to the new minimum rate. The apprentice will also have to be released for one day every week for offsite training, and this will be at a cost to the employer. The employer has to offer a mentor to provide leadership and guidance to the apprentice at work.”
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Some salon owners, such as Louisa Murphy, owner of Saints Colour Specialist in Ferns, Co. Wexford, believe that these costs are too large for her salon to absorb. “I would love to take on an apprentice in the salon but when I looked into it the amount of effort it takes to put everything in place, along with the cost and procedures, it wasn’t really worth it,” she explains. “I have an assistant in the salon who does the odd day in return for her training but would love to be able to make this more official.” However, Louisa, agrees that there is a need to attract more young people into the hairdressing industry. “Hairdressing is definitely the best job in the world and young people should be encouraged to join the industry. Hairdressing is an art and it needs to get passed on to young people so the industry can keep growing and expanding.” Two apprentices have joined Bridget Haren’s team, mentored by salon manager Michelle Nugent-Considine. According to Michelle, the training varies from week to week to give the apprentices a proper feel for salon life. “They have a structure to follow with their college work so we follow that for the training session, and they also shadow different stylists and assist them on a daily basis,” she explains. “Our stylists are always eager to take them under their wing. This helps to build team bonds and confidence in both the apprentices and the stylists. I think it’s extremely important for stylists to want to give back to the next generation.” And what do the apprentices themselves think of their experiences so far? “Hairdressing is something that I always wanted to do – I had started off doing a course in office administration and knew it was not for me,” says new apprentice Sophie Ward. “When the opportunity for the apprenticeship came up at Bridget Haren Hair and Beauty, I was delighted. I hope to have a full column by the end of my three-year apprenticeship and discover what skill I am strongest in. Knowing we have the full support of the team at the salon makes it easier – all the ladies help us with new things and they love hearing what we are doing in college.” Apprentice Grace Bardon agrees that the opportunity to gain education in the hairdressing industry was particularly attractive. “I hope to gain the necessary skills and experience to become a successful stylist at Bridget Haren Hair and Beauty, and I’m very grateful to have been allowed to work in a salon that is so focused on training,” she says. “I’ve wanted to be a hairdresser all my life – I’ve tried other things but always wanted to come back to hairdressing.”
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EDINBURGH
MONDAY 16 MARCH, 7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS
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Pick &mix Why choose one colour? Embrace the rainbow with CHROMA ID, Schwarzkopf Professional’s new customisable colour system
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Paint the Bottle blonde, boring brunettes and samey peach pastels are so 2010‌
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rainbow
If you’re not offering your client the opportunity to play with every crayon in the box and personalise their look then you’re missing a trick. CHROMA ID is Schwarzkopf Professional’s new 100 per cent customisable semi-permanent mixing and toning colour system. Unlock your creativity and open your client’s eyes to how easy it is to rock a fresh look. Regular colour chameleons and curious
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first-timers alike can enjoy an infinite array of colour options to express themselves without worry. The integrated Bonding Technology gives every colour intense care, while the intermixable shades cover everything from trending warm tones to edgy, striking shades. Are you ready to paint the rainbow with CHROMA ID?
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Intense Bonding Colour Masks
For bold colours that express every shade and facet of your client’s personality. Customise with the six Bonding Colour Masks or create pastel perfection when intermixed with the Clear Bonding Mask
Bonding Colour Masks
Play with low-commitment colour service options and refresh dulled colour, or help to boost IGORA ROYAL or VIBRANCE colours. Tone and top-up at will with 13 shades to choose from
At-home Bonding Colour Masks Get your clients in on the colour action. Help them to refresh and maintain your colour concoctions for fresh vibrancy with six at-home colour masks
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Play it your way Colour is hugely personal and can have a real impact on your client’s mood and character. Not everyone wants to prelighten, being scared of damaging their hair structure, or the permanency of their decision. Rest easy knowing CHROMA ID enables you the colourist to maintain and even improve your client’s hair condition
• Bonding technology
Enforces the structural bonds within the hair shaft for stronger hair and less breakage
• Low-salt technology
Reduces the pigment penetration barrier of the hair shaft, maxing out the ability of colour pigments to enter for better colour deposition
• Keratin and panthenol
Provides extra care and helps to seal the outer hair cuticle for improved hair quality and shine
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
Shades of you Offer a service for every client that sits in your chair – whether they’re a regular colour user or not
Play it cool
Cool things off with anti-yellow pigments, perfect for light blonde, silver or white bases; or anti-orange for darker blonde bases to neutralise any unwanted tones
Sweet like candy
Candy floss-sweet shades are a doddle with CHROMA ID. Simply mix a Bonding Colour Mask with the Clear Bonding Mask for your desired sugar rush
Feeling fresh
Apply directly, mix and match and customise to your heart’s desire. There are so many options for you to create truly customised colour
Pass the sunnies
Some people aren’t made to blend in. Enjoy mixing up an unlimited palette of bright, intense and inspiring colours
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Bold Expressionist
2Tone Artist
Variety is the spice of life! With nine different looks and step-by-steps available for each, your creativity can be endless and your client can choose the look they’d love to try RosÉ Huntress
From March there will be a fresh update of seasonal colour melts for S/S20 SWEETEN YOUR COLOUR MENU WITH CHROMA ID AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS BY OFFERING YOUR CLIENTS EXCITING NEW SERVICE OPTIONS FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 0800 328 6920 OR VISIT SCHWARZKOPFPRO.COM @SCHWARZKOPFPROUK
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MODEL TEAM CALVIN KLEIN, CÉLINE, RALPH LAUREN, COOL COLLABORATIONS ARE DAILY OCCURRENCES AT SCOTLAND’S LONGEST ESTABLISHED FASHION MODEL AGENCY…
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t s a c e f e Th S/S20
D AS EACH SEASON DAWNS, NEW TRENDS AN ING TECHNIQUES ARRIVE ON THE RUNWAY, FILTER INTO THROUGH INSTAGRAM VIA EDITORIALS ANDTS TO THE SALON. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURIS TRENDS IDENTIFY THE THREE MOST EXCITING COLOUR FOR S/S20
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ALFAPARF Milano
L’Oréal Professionnel
PRODUCTS ALFAPARF Milano Precious Nature, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel, Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals
DAKS
From gooey caramels and praline mousses to rich cocoas and dark ganache, there’s a sweet treat of inspiration for every head of hair. “I love the realistic qualities of a buttery blonde, using natural warmth and not over-lifting,” says Aine Carty, stylist at Rossano’s. “I use a lower volume or a freehand clay-based lightener to create this look, and finish it off with a Redken Shades EQ Gloss.” For Leandro Santana Santos, owner of Decode Hair by Leandro, it’s all about health and technique. “With these hair colours application is key, as you want to ensure the hair remains in the best possible condition so that it is full of shine,” he explains. “Balayage will become softer, especially for brunettes, with a more refined feel.” Aine agrees, adding: “I love alternating customisable tones to contour the face shape and make the eye colour pop. A personal favourite shade of mine is mocha – it screams class and sophistication.”
Schwarzkopf Professional
THE TREND CHOCOLATE BOX
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PANTONE Classic Blue
PRODUCTS Staino by evo fab pro, TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder, Goldwell Elumen Play, JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastel
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Fyodor Golan
Bleach London Phellipe Lutterbeck
Fashion images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel and R+Co
THE TREND HEAVY CONTRAST
The ’90s are undoubtedly here to stay. It started with chokers and sportswear, and now blocky, high contrast hair is having a moment. Play with root stretches, chunky highlights and statement sections. “These looks suit creative people who like a bold look,” says Cyril Morgan, owner of Cyril Morgan Hair. “They’re influenced by celebrities such as Dua Lipa and Billie Eilish, having seen them on Instagram.” According to Phellipe Lutterbeck, creative director at Moyo Hair, it’s important to manage your client’s expectations when it comes to these extreme looks. He explains. “Usually the contrast styles are composed with fantasy colours which tend to fade quite quickly, and sometimes they need certain hair masks that help keep the colour.”
Wella Professionals
Aine Carty
Heads will be in the clouds this summer – from the soft pinks of sunrise and the bright cobalt of midday through to burnt sunsets and shimmering twilight tones, this sky-inspired palette is fresh and adaptable. “These versatile looks are dusky pink, pale blue, and other shimmering colours,” says Denise Phillips, owner of Pelo Hairdressing and winner of the ALFAPARF Milano Fantastic Hairdresser Colourist Award. “They are suitable for any client with lightened hair but don’t require commitment as the colour will fade.” With the Pantone Colour of the Year announced as Classic Blue, these exciting colours will be huge during 2020. Aine says: “With blues and violets you need to ensure maximum undertone lift and not be fearful of the toner!”
APUJAN
THE TREND SKY HIGH
PRODUCTS Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Cromatics, Redken Shades EQ Gloss, Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID
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La fiesta Bellissimo’s latest collection, Unity, uses a vibrant colour palette and dazzling shine to celebrate Galway being the European Capital of Culture for 2020 PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIA DUNIN 38
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HAIR Team Tribe at Bellissimo Galway, led by Louise Jordan. MAKE-UP Susie Cantwell. CLOTHING Ail Ruin, styled by Marietta Doran. RETOUCHING Khushal Tilloo. MODELS Sophie O’Flaherty, Katie Krihelli and Avril Lohan at Catwalk Modelling Agency
e c i p s & S u g ar THE EYE CANDY COLLECTION FROM QUEEN IN DUBLIN IS A VISUAL FEAST, BLENDING CLASSIC CUTTING TECHNIQUES WITH CONTEMPORARY FINISHES P H O T O G R A P H Y BY M AT T I A P E L I Z Z A R I
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HAIR John Maher, Pauline Whelan, Philip Hannon, Claire O’Donnell and Dwayne Yin. MAKE-UP Abby Palmer
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Christophe Robin Ken Picton Ryan Power
Marcus Allen
AN IMPRESSIVE AUDIENCE gathered at the Convention Centre Dublin for the sixth annual Salon Owner Summit, hosted by Phorest Salon Software. International speakers explored a variety topics such as staffing, social media, technology and marketing. Marcus Allen of Urban Retreat in Harrods discussed the importance of self-awareness; Pamela Laird, founder of beauty brand Moxi Loves, revealed the ups and downs of the modern beauty industry. Californian hairdresser Jamie Dana gave advice for salons fearing Instagram, and fellow American Stefanie Jackson discussed building teams that work. Sharing her perspective on the beauty industry was the British Beauty Council’s Millie Kendall MBE, while salon owner Ken Picton spoke candidly about running a business. The day was punctuated with workshops led by business coach Ryan Power, salon owner Phil Jackson and education innovator Kristian Tognini. The headline was a conversation with legendary French hairdresser Christophe Robin, who provided plenty of insight discussing his journey to becoming a top Parisian colourist.
Kristian Tognini
REACH
Phil Jackson
Global
Stefanie Jackson
Jamie Dana
Pamela Laird
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
Ronan Perceval
Scene
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From left: Lisa Oxenham, Madeleine Spencer, Adam Andrascik, Luke Hersheson, Zoë Irwin and Harriet Stokes
Going THROUGH changes PRINT VERSUS DIGITAL. Social media stand out. Authenticity versus over-sharing. These, and other pressing existential questions for the hair professional and modern citizen, formed the basis for the first Coterie gathering of the year – and with no fewer than six guest speakers and the promise of goody bags filled with the stunning new JoiFull volumising range from sponsor JOICO, it’s no wonder the event was packed to the rafters. The Times They Are A-Changin’ saw questions being posed by Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage and the answers being debated by an expert panel of changemakers that included journalists Lisa Oxenham (beauty and style director at Marie Claire) and Madeleine Spencer (Beauty Full Lives podcast), industry trendsetters Luke Hersheson and Zoë Irwin, Not Another Salon’s Instagram star Harriet Stokes and international fashion consultant Adam Andrascik. The results were fascinating, insightful and thoughtprovoking – and 100 per cent relevant to us all.
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TO READ debate highlights and find out about our Edinburgh event on 16 March, visit creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
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Darren Fowler
Blow UP
Starting a new decade of creativity and inspiration, Fashion in Motion returned to the V&A with a bang, as Central Saint Martins graduate Fredrik Tjærandsen showcased highlights from his incredible Moments of Clarity presentation. Having set social media ablaze last year with his otherworldly rubber ‘bubbles’ from the BA Fashion showcase, Tjærandsen won the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award last year, despite not a single stitch being used in the collection. Made entirely from biodegradable natural rubber latex sourced sustainably and responsibly from growers in Sri Lanka, Tjærandsen’s designs support local communities making a living from the forests. Leading the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio hair team backstage was Fowler35’s Darren Fowler, who took inspiration from the garments to create a sculpted, wet look across nine models. TECNI.ART Extreme Splash was applied with a brush to keep hair slicked down without the use of oil, which would have melted the latex. Don’t want to cause a bang…
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19/02/2020 11:09
Danielle Trimble
And the winners are… Salon of the year Lucan
Assistant team Charlestown Lucan
Gold star hair spy award Charlestown
Lucan salon
David Campbell
Customer service award
Creative salon Abbey Street
Retail salon
Charlestown
Premier salon Abbey Street
Social media salon Lucan
Paul Byrne memorial award
Dream Team
Olive Tucker Lee
Danielle Trimble, Lucan
Karla O’Callaghan memorial award Luis O’Connor, Abbey Street
Educator of the year Zara Doherty
ICON Award
Olive Tucker Lee
CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND
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Luis O’Connor
Charlestown
MORE THAN 120 hairdressers from seven House of Colour salons and two academies came together at the Gibson Hotel in Dublin for the 22nd annual House of Colour Salon of the Year Awards. The theme for the evening was Fashion Forward, and the event celebrated achievements over the past year, along with a glimpse of the future as the Art Team revealed their trend predictions. Guests enjoyed a three course meal and a glass of bubbly before co-founder and MC for the evening David Campbell kicked off proceedings. The top award of Salon of the Year was won by Lucan for the second year in a row. The new trainee Dream Team was announced – Portia O’Neill, Melissa O’Reilly, and Ellie Wallnut won the 12-month scholarship to work alongside the House of Colour Creative Team. Finally, art director Olive Tucker Lee was presented with the ICON award and the annual Paul Byrne Memorial Award went to Danielle Trimble, manager of the Lucan salon.
Abbey Street
Simply THE BEST
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Her natura l colour – I’m so jealous!
Three inches lighter! #naturalcurls A little snap from working with @xpo sevmtv and @du blint own-
In the
Wedding hair! Practising options for the big day
frame
Pretty in pink #bala yage
Orla Langton, stylist and colourist at PREEN Hair & Beauty (@orlahairlangton) snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Preparing my image for the @loreal pro Colour Trophy! #LCT
Copper colour with neon pastel panels 50
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It’s so hard to pick just one colour!
@bazz asnaps shootin g @naom i-aje clothes with make- up by @bonn ieryan and hair by me!
Having fun with an alternative cut CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND
19/02/2020 11:21
! y ll u f it e Liv
There is no desire for change ...
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THE TONE ON TONE NATURAL EVOLUTION Color Wear is the natural evolution of the tone on tone concept, which is even more natural for a brand such as ALFAPARF MILANO, which makes change and innovation its trademark. Thanks to its patented technology, this radically renewed formula stands out due to its gentleness on the hair and allows everyone to enhance and enjoy a new look.
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BLEND OF OILS
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www.alfaparfmilano.com _@alfaparf_milano_ireland
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Illustration by @betty_blades
EXCLUSIVE
Welcome to our new trio of guest PAINTERS from Pulp Riot’s #riotsquad. First in the spotlight is Lexie Shay Rabbett from HIVE Hair Salon, Leeds
2020
2020
Most Wanted and The It List Awards 2020 are now OPEN for entries. We’ve had a category refresh, so check out the website now for the full lowdown
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This is your final chance to snap up Salon Smart 2020 tickets! Head to the Creative HEAD store now or risk missing out
creativeheadmagofficial
The Coterie’s returning to Edinburgh on 16 March, and we’re in first-class company! Be part of the action as we hang with the #sydsquad
@creativeheadmag
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