THIS CHANGED MY LIFE

FRESH LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA @freshlifestyleaveda

ELEMENTS HAIR & BEAUTY @elements_hair_and_beauty

BLOOM @bloomavedalifestyle

#LETSGETVIBRANT RINGLIGHTS AT THE READY – LET’S SEE HOW UK AVEDA COLOURISTS ARE SHARING THEIR WORK WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS ON INSTAGRAM

GINA CONWAY @gina_conway_aveda

JO MCKAY @joelouisemckay

THE WONDERLAB @thewonderlabhair

SAY HELLO TO JOE HILL MEET @THECOLOURBOY, THE AVEDA COLOUR WHIZZ WHO’S HERE TO HELP MAKE YOUR COLOUR CAREER POP!

WHAT DOES YOUR ROLE ENTAIL? My role is Aveda colour specialist UK & Ireland, and I’m on the Aveda UK & Ireland Pro Team. My job is split in two; fi rstly I work with the Aveda salon network creating technical education plans to help drive their business to the next level. I also work with all the teams within Aveda to ensure we can off er our salon network and salon guests the most from Aveda colour, whether this is working with PR on photo shoots or sales teams… no day is ever the same! fi rstly I work with the Aveda salon network creating technical education plans to help drive their business to the next level. I also work with all the teams within Aveda to ensure we can off er our salon network and

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE VIBRANTS SHADES TO PLAY WITH? I love them all, however I really like creating vintage, aged-looking colours at the moment. Think faded mauve or blushed bronze. That’s why I like working with our charcoal shade and intermixing with whatever tone will suit!

WHAT’S EXCITING FROM AVEDA EDUCATION IN 2020? I am super-excited about our exclusive partnership with Vladimir Sarbashev. He’s the creator of the AirTouch Technique, a modern way to freehand balayage hair utilising airfl ow as your tool. It really is a game-changer.

WHY DO YOU LOVE WORKING WITH AVEDA COLOUR? It’s so unique and honestly that’s what I really love about it. I have been colouring hair for more than 18 years and I’ve never used a colour line that expands my creativity and gives my salon guests ultimate options like this, because Aveda Full Spectrum colour is fully customisable. It’s also 95 per cent naturally derived.*

WHAT’S IN STORE FOR YOU NEXT? Block colour versus natural colour. I think the next big application trend is going to be working with the beautiful natural canvases we all know and love and adding geometry through focal areas like the fringe or under the parting. For example, taking a natural-looking balayage and creating extremely light sections through the focal area utilising triangle/square or circular sections, merging extreme natural with extreme bold.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TIPS FOR COLOURISTS SHARING THEIR WORK ON INSTAGRAM? There are so many elements to creating an amazing feed. First of all, be personable! We have seconds to capture an audience so let your personality shine. Second, when taking the image, fi nd a nice brick wall/plain background or, if your salon has no spare space, buy a pull-down projector blind for an aff ordable photoshoot fi nish.

HOW SHOULD COLOURISTS TAG THEIR WORK TO BE SEEN BY AVEDA? #avedaartist #aveda #avedacolour #avedacolourist #avedafullspectrumcolour #avedablonde #avedavibrants

FULL METAL ALCHEMY GOLDWELL’S NEW METALLIC SHADES ARE POSITIVELY MAGNETIC

We had three key requirements when we started looking for a new colour house. Excellent products, excellent company culture and a competitive contract agreement. Goldwell met all of these and more

Luke Halford Addicted to Colour, Leicester

THE FUTURE IS not just bright, it’s metallic. Six new shades have arrived in the Goldwell Elumen colour collection, including four shimmering metallic Elumen Play colours. Known for its trendforward hues, Elumen is here to take shine to a whole new level. New Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6 add a sophisticated, cool edge to your looks, and there are four new semi-permanent Elumen Play shades – glistening @Metallic Berry, glimmering @Metallic Purple, shimmering @Metallic Petrol and shiny @Metallic Silver – which can be used for all-over shimmer, or to add glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles.

The hyper-refl ective, glossy results last for up to four weeks and will fade on tone if Elumen Care is used at home. If your client can’t wait for a new shade, Elumen Play Eraser quickly removes previous colour and prepares hair for the next creation! “The new metallic shades are stunning,” says Goldwell guest artist Nicola Smyth. “They’re the perfect shades to use directly on your client’s hair. If you want to play and get creative, all of the colours are intermixable, so you can come up with totally bespoke results.” These new additions have entered Goldwell’s outstanding nonoxidative, ammonia-free Elumen range – an intensive hair colour that

works with direct-acting colour pigments to penetrate deep inside the hair. Elumen direct dye technology is known for its incredible shine, extraordinary colour brilliance and longevity, which works to repair the hair structure even as it colours.

Innovation is at the core of Goldwell’s colour portfolio, resulting in fresh possibilities for both colourists and consumers. If you have a creative vision, Goldwell wants to help you achieve it. “I’ve been in the industry 40 years and I can honestly say that there is no other colour portfolio like it out there,” says Goldwell ambassador and industry icon Beverly C. “The colour palettes and the sheer innovation within the ranges have opened up a whole new world of creativity for me.” No stone has been left unturned – take Goldwell @Pure Pigments for example, which feature revolutionary dye technology developed over 17 years in collaboration with experts at FujiFilm. The result? Hyper-pigmented colour with unbelievable shine and fade resistance. Even the colour delivery system has been evolved and perfected – the Topchic Depot Can system has won over legions of colourists for its ease, precision and waste reduction. For every facet of the colour experience, Goldwell never stops seeking to improve and innovate.

Enter the TONE ZONE TONERS ARE GREAT, AREN’T THEY? PERFECT FOR BANISHING UNWANTED BRASS, ADDING A TEMPORARY SHADE OR REFRESHING SHINE BETWEEN COLOUR APPOINTMENTS – BUT ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM IN YOUR BUSINESS?

SCROLL THROUGH YOUR Instagram feed, and you’ll notice that the hair colours that get a whole lotta love are the perfectly toned, gorgeously glossy fi nishes that look almost edible, from biscuit blondes to chocolatey browns and even sugar almond pastels. And, thanks to tags, consumers can see for themselves precisely the professional brands being used to deliver this deliciousness. Often these are shades that can be applied as a service that doesn’t cost hours or lots of cash. This is the power of the not-so humble toner, and truly its time is now.

“Toning should be big news in all salons,” asserts Robert Eaton, UK and Ireland technical director of Wella Professionals and creative director of Russell Eaton salons. “We’ve really focused our education to explore creativity with toners and the technical knowledge that goes alongside it. Everything from instant colour, our colour blowdry service to longer-lasting toners and glossing services. There isn’t much you can’t suggest a toner for.”

Indeed, the merits of toners are endless – yet so many salons fail to make the most out of using them. “Toning should play a starring role in any salon,” says Steve Rowbottom, co-director of Westrow salons. “It’s important to educate your clients fi rst and foremost. The biggest misconception we’ve found is clients think toning is for colour correction, rather than a tool for personalisation.”

Steve suggests using simple terminology to point out the colouring options during a consultation and explaining how adding a warmer or cooler toner cancels out unwanted tones. “Make it clear what toners are and how they work with your clients’ hair,” he advises.

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Sophie Gibson, art team member of salon group Hooker & Young, emphasises the importance of a toning menu. “It’s important to make it clear that colour is a journey. Creating a menu that keeps this in clients’ minds ensures you’re on the same wavelength in regards to services provided, products needed and overall cost,” she explains. “Off ering toner services after a previous colour service is vital for maximising profi t and loyalty.”

L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Glow @blendsalon

Redken Shades EQ Toning Tweakments menu

Clarifying everything on an easy to understand menu opens up the potential for developing conversations and interest from clients, suggests Daniel Rice, colour director at Williams & Rice. They might not be up for a full colour change but might be willing to try a twist on the usual. “Satisfying that curiosity can open fresh opportunities with a wide variety of clients; experimenting with tonal shades can lead to something more complex, with more commitment and a more expensive service. But toners can also be an inexpensive way of introducing colour as a new service to clients.”

Redken supports its salons with regular service menu campaigns, each one working hard to deliver beautiful hair that’s perfect for Instagram, driving clients both new and established to try colour and using beauty vocabulary to chime in with conversations that clients are hearing elsewhere. With its Toning Tweakments menu, complete with before and after images, guests are off ered four distinct services using its Shades EQ portfolio to deliver a real impact on their hair colour, and in as little as 20 minutes. This means it’s a quick backwash service that can boost the bottom line while illustrating to the client what a big impact toners can have on banishing brass and dullness. “Clients love this!” says Jo Pilbeam from Blend about the Tweakments menu. “They can see exactly how to maintain their beautiful salon colour and keep the shine without damaging the hair. We got a lot of interaction from clients asking what we used to make the colours we share on our Instagram feed and asking questions about Shades EQ. I think of it as a lip gloss for the hair.”

Off ering salons an enticing menu of quick colour options at an aff ordable price was a driver behind the No Strings Attached Colour menu from Wella Professionals too, and its new blonde glazing menu, curated by its UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin, aims to leave no blonde untoned.

“Toning and glossing services are an amazing introduction for colour-averse clients,” says Robert Eaton. “There has been

massive growth area in this area. The Wella Professionals No Strings Attached Colour menu is perfect for those who want to experiment, as well as colour-shy clients you’ve been trying to win over.”

BESPOKE YOUR BLONDES Larry King’s Harriet Muldoon, one of the salon brand’s Queens of Colour, sets a very common salon scene. “If you’re a colourist you’ll hear the words: ‘I want to go blonde’ many times a day, but ‘blonde’ has so many meanings,” she says. “It’s all about the tone. I like to use my social media as a portfolio to show all of my favourite shades – butter, vanilla, ash, pearl. Just like make-up, we all love discussing tones, and Instagram is a good tool to use during consultations. And Redken Shades EQ is the ultimate toner range.” As Trevor Sorbie’s Emma Beveridge admits, with balayage in particular, clients are coming into the salon less often, so off ering a toning service is a great way to see them more regularly. “At the moment I especially like using the Majirel Glow range from L’Oréal Professionnel, as it has a great selection of pastels and more vivid tones,” she adds.

THE NEW DRIVES THE HUE All this interest in glossing and toning has naturally driven innovation from the colour houses to ensure that colourists have exactly the tools they need to deliver what clients want. Following last year’s launch of Majirel Glow from L’Oréal Professionnel, the brand has also unveiled INOA Glow, a palette of nine shades that run from ashy to mocha that preserve the hair’s natural transparency for luminous results.

@harrietmuldoon

Wella Professionals originally launched its much-loved Illumina Color line a decade ago, and it’s now adding new shades to its portfolio to help expand the tones colourists can off er. ASP has overhauled its whole INFINITI collection, including its toners, to equip salons with every possible high-performing hue. And for those who do like to play with something more experimental, Elumen PLAY from Goldwell has an eraser to clean up hair in a fl ash so that clients can try something else tonal.

TONERS AREN’T JUST FOR BLONDES… “A lot of our clients think toners are mainly for blonde hair,” says Steve Rowbottom, “but we use them eff ectively on all hair colours. Redheads and brunettes can really benefi t from using them, especially in-between colour appointments,” adding that toners are a great solution for clients looking to return to a more natural hue. Thomas Hills, artistic director and owner of TH1 Hair in Oxted and a Revlon Professional colour educator, uses toning in a variety of ways. “What we call ‘paint colour’ is a trend I see being big this season,” Thomas says. “This isn’t necessarily for every day, but more suited to special occasions or summer festivals. Think unexpected bursts of arty colour and splashes of paint worn against otherwise inconspicuous normcore shades, which are then styled into nondescript or traditionally prim styles.”

Thomas believes transparency is key when it comes to building your toner menu. “We’ve found that as trends and techniques evolve, so does the time requirement for each appointment. We don’t want clients to get a shock when paying so we make it obvious at the start.” He advises being upfront with clients about your techniques – how long it will take to achieve their dream look, and how that will impact the end cost. With this in mind, TH1 Hair now has a wider range of colour services on the menu. “Our previous colour service issues – those black to blonde expectations for example – now sit with our ‘creative toning’ section, along with babylights, additional base colours and freehand painting. This means we can off er our clients a more tailored response to their hair needs. It also allows them to understand the colour process more.” Westrow’s Steve Rowbottom adds: “We off er temporary tones via our in-salon Colour Bar Backwash experience. It allows our colour mixologists to create bespoke tones using Revlon Professional Nutri Color Crème [a three-in-one cocktail of colour, care and shine], which are mixed and applied at the backwash. Clients can then take the remainder of the product home to use to keep their colour fresh in-between salon appointments.”

Steve is in the process of building this service into the cost of every colour appointment at Westrow: “It will allow us to off er clients a complimentary visit to the salon for a follow-up appointment, to professionally analyse that the

tone is correct, off er maintenance advice or make any alterations if required and leave the salon with a fresh blow-dry.”

With such a wide variety of services – not to mention toning products – available to aid clients in their colour quest, it really pays to ensure communication is open. “Discuss all the ways a toning service can help your client,” adds Steve. “From the colour-shy to the colour queens, a menu with options for every level is integral to your salon becoming invaluable in your clients’ quest for colour nirvana.”

HOME IS WHERE THE TONE IS Of course, all this toning work isn’t exclusive to the salon. Once clients have invested in a toning service there’s a brilliant opportunity to boost the salon’s retail while ensuring their tone lasts that bit longer with after care recommendations. For example, Redken’s Color Extend range not only off ers violet-hued Blondage for blondes, but also Graydient to ensure yellow-free tones for silver-haired clients and new Brownlights, which is a blue-toned colour-depositing shampoo and conditioner that keeps the brass away from brunettes, too.

For those who like to be a bit more playful, there’s also after care that can be customised in salon using the colour that you’ve applied to your clients. Both evo fab pro and My.Haircare’s Infuse My.Colour can be cocktailed by colourists, while both brands also off er pre-mixed colour intensifying shampoos and conditioners, too.

“It’s quite easy to add coloured shampoo to retail because clients know they’re designed to maintain their specifi c shade, whether it’s Redken’s Brownlights, Blondage or Graydiant shampoos,” says Claire Flack of Wigs & Warpaint. “Once you’ve used the products, you believe in them. You can buy whatever from the high street, but this is prescriptive.” example, Redken’s Color Extend range not only off ers violet-hued Blondage for blondes, but also Graydient to ensure yellow-free tones for silver-haired clients and new Brownlights, which is a blue-toned colour-depositing shampoo and conditioner that keeps the brass away from brunettes, too. playful, there’s also after care that can be customised in salon using the colour that you’ve applied to your clients. Both evo fab pro and My.Haircare’s Infuse My.Colour can be cocktailed by colourists, while both brands also off er pre-mixed colour intensifying shampoos and conditioners, too.