Crème de Cornell F17 Issue by Crème de Cornell

crème DE CORNELL

Back to the Roots

FALL 2017 ISSUE NO. VIII

table of

contents 06

FARM TO TABLE

TLC: ROOT AWAKENING

As you’re scanning through a menu at a restaurant, do you ever wonder where each meal comes from?...

ROASTED SALAD, GNOCCHI, SUKIYAKI, OZONI

FUSION FOODS: THE TRADITION BEHIND THE TREND

Recipes by Ethyn Leong

To many, “fusion” cuisine is nothing more than a passing trend...

NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S DIET

LIANG PI IN XI’AN

The year is 2017. Innovation has progressed to the point where we can eat a croissant-donut...

We’ve all been there – or unfortunately, reaching that point....

When we think of Chinese food, our minds typically gravitate towards spicy Szechuan cuisine, the delights of dimsum, or takeout...

24 HOURS IN PHILADELPHIA

THE ART OF HYGGELIGT DANISH CUISINE

As a native of the Philly area, I can assure you that the bustling food scene...

Reflecting on my past semester abroad in Denmark...

BACK TO THE GRAINS

IMMIGRANT FOOD CULTURE

Oprah loves bread. To me, there is nothing better than a fresh loaf of challah...

The aroma of the restaurant was the first thing to hit me as I walked into Beijing Jianbing...

SCONES, RICE KRISPIE TREATS, CINNAMON ROLLS

BACK TO THE ROOTS, OR BACK TO THE FUTURE?

Recipes by Rachel Allison

From traditional recipes passed down by family and friends to the broad portfolio...

list of

staff

EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang

MANAGING EDITORS

Benjamin Chiaravanont, Gabrielle Leung

LAYOUT DIRECTOR

Crystal Liu

LAYOUT STAFF

Kathie Jiang, June-Summer Kim, Ashlyn Koh, Jennifer Lin, Megan She, Alisa Wong

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHY STAFF CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CULINARY DIRECTORS

Ben Ross

Kevin Cavallo, Bradley Chen, Stephanie Kay, Jeannie Yamazaki, Henry Yang, April Ye Rachel Allison, Yuna Chung, Harrison Cui, Elijah Fox, Ethyn Leong, Adeline Lerner, Beth Mieczkowski, Liz Qian, Annie Weiss, Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang, Lily Zhong Rachel Allison, Ethyn Leong Harrison Cui

WEBMASTER

Ilayda Samilgil, June-Summer Kim

PUBLICITY CHAIR

Camille Chan

SOCIAL MEDIA CHAIR

Tina Choi, Coco Yang

EVENT CHAIR

Nafisa Hossain

TREASURER

Heather Kowlakowski

ADVISOR

CrÃ¨me de Cornell, an independent student publication at Cornell University, produced and is responsible for the content of this publication. This publication was not reviewed or approved by, nor does it necessarily express or reflect the policies or opinions of, Cornell University or its designated representatives. If you are interested in joining, please contact us through our website www.cremedecornell.net or find us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/cremedecornell.

Funded by Cornell SAFC and International Students Union.

letter from

editors-in-chief

A sense of home and going back to the roots There’s something magical about a steaming hot bowl of soup on a chilly winter afternoon. When the cold front settles in and breathes become visible, callings of comfort take center stage. To some, this means a fresh cinnamon roll straight from the oven or a warm homemade loaf of sourdough lathered in just-melting butter. To others, this brings to mind childhood favorites from home, foods they simply grown up with. In this issue, we build upon this idea of comfort in exploring what it truly means to return to our roots. Sail off around the world to Xi’an, Thailand, and South Korea as students delve into the comfort foods of their homelands. Indulge in the cozy cuisine of Danish hygge, or tour Philadelphia like a local foodie for the day. Step forward into the future of traditional food with an introduction to gastronomy with Heston Blumenthal, or take a step back to reflect on the food we’ve always been eating growing up with a breakdown of what it means to be paleo. From the literal interpretation of roots as root vegetables to reflecting on one’s cultural food roots, Back to the Roots celebrates home, wherever or whoever with it may be. It is a tribute to our fondness of our “roots” - our hometowns, our beloved family recipes, our traditions of yesterday, today, and tomorrow. Enjoy! Editors-in-Chief,

Kristen Yi Cathy Zhang

As you’re scanning through a menu at a restaurant, do you ever wonder where each meal comes from? Hint…I’m not referring to the kitchen. Long before you sat down and contemplated what to order, each ingredient had to be planted, cultivated, and maybe even shipped thousands of miles to make it onto your plate. That’s where farm-to-fork differs from a normal restaurant experience. Farm-to-table restaurants, also known as farm-tofork, employ a direct relationship between consumer and producer, meaning restaurants purchase ingredients directly from local farms as they are cultivated. Customers no longer need to concern themselves with where their food comes from, and all of the heavy processing that entails. Instead, they can delight in knowing that all of their ingredients were grown on a farm often only a few miles away, which is evident in their unsurpassable freshness and taste. These restaurants embody culinary authenticity,

adding a hint of local flare and guarantee of ethereal, chemical-free nutrients to every dish. Modern consumers no longer want pesticidefilled food that comes in a neon package. In the early 2000s, awareness for food safety flourished due to the commercial sales of GMO products beginning the decade before. This clean-eating movement, accompanied by a surging consciousness for environmental impact, fostered a society in which farm-to-tables thrived. Chaz Panisse in Berkeley, The Kitchen in Boulder, and The HerbFarm in Seattle are amongst many pioneers in the industry, and thanks to their success, farm-to-forks quickly dispersed throughout the country, becoming one of America’s top four food trends in recent years. Not only do farm-to-tables benefit local economies, agriculture, and the environment, but they improve the restaurant’s cuisine as well. The majority of ingredients incorporated into every dish

Farm

by Beth Mieczkowski

are fresh, local, and seasonal. Chefs can no longer solely run the show; Mother Nature also plays a hand in which dishes can best be served when. You won’t find many berries in your salad at a farm-to-table in Ithaca in the middle of winter, for example, because menus must rely on which crops are readily available. In addition, many of the vegetables and meats are heirloom, meaning they were cultivated by heritage farmers who have been working in food production for generations. The ingredients are usually unhybridized, causing each one to be hardier and more flavorful than those from commercial farms. Because they are often fresher and tastier, the dishes are kept simple as to not take away from the essence of each constituent. Picture organic salads, deliciously fresh burgers, lots of fruits and vegetables, and maybe even seafood depending on the area. But don’t worry- this doesn’t make the food any more expensive. The dishes are better, reasonably priced,

and you get the satisfaction of supporting local agriculture in the process. It’s a win-win-win, right? There are many ways college students in Ithaca can do their part to support this locally-sourced movement. Within Ithaca itself reside many farm-to-tables, including Agava, Viva Taqueria, and Moosewood Restaurant. I would especially recommend Viva’s delicious burritos; its Californian-style Mexican cuisine sources many ingredients from farms nearby, including their beans and tofu, and their prices are exceptional. In addition, the Farmer’s Market is a great way to try some of Ithaca’s produce directly from the source. It’s not only delicious, but also fun to stroll by each booth and explore the many fresh options available during each season. So what are you waiting for? Go try some of Ithaca’s (and America’s) healthiest and tastiest culinary options. You definitely will not be disappointed.

Table

ROASTED SALAD servings: 10

INGREDIENTS 3 beetroots 2 cups diced butternut squash 1 lb brussel sprouts 1 fennel bulb 1 can garbanzo beans ½ cup balsamic vinegar olive oil ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 lemon salt and pepper to taste

VEGETABLES 1. Preheat oven to 400ໍF. 2. Cut stalks off of beetroots, coat bulbs in olive oil, and wrap in tin foil. Roast in oven for 40 minutes. Remove from oven, peel, and dice. Reduce balsamic vinegar in a frying pan over medium high heat. When ½ of the liquid remains, add diced beetroot. Cook for 5 minutes, or until a glaze forms around each cube. 3. Strain garbanzo beans, pat dry with paper towels, toss with olive oil and salt, and roast for 20 minutes. 4. Quarter and dice fennel bulb, setting aside any fronds. 5. Toss fennel and squash with olive oil, arrange on a baking sheet, and roast for 15 minutes. 6. Quarter brussel sprouts. Saute with 2 Tbsp olive oil in a medium skillet over medium high heat for 4 minutes. Transfer to oven and roast for 5 minutes. 7. After roasting, set aside all vegetables separately and let cool before combining in a large bowl.

VINAIGRETTE 1. Whisk together apple cidar vinegar, and the juice and zest of one lemon. 2. Continue whisking, and slowly pour in 3Tbsp olive oil. 3. Add salt and pepper to adjust taste. 4. Pour over roasted vegetables and toss to coat.

by Ethyn Leong

GNOCCHI WITH TOMATO SAUCE servings: 4

GNOCCHI 1. Peel and dice potatoes. Boil until tender. 2. Strain potatoes, kneed with flour, egg, and salt until a dough forms. 3. Segment dough into eighths, roll intto a ½ inch diameter tube, and cut into 1’’ long dumplings. 4. Boil in salted water until gnocchi float, roughly 2-3 minutes. 5. Serve with sauce of choosing.

SAUCE 1. Peel and dice garlic, quarter tomatoes, and cut basil into ribbons. 2. In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over medium high, and cook onions and garlic for 1 minute. 3. Add vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, oregano, and basil. Mix, then add tomato vine. 4. Reduce heat to medium low, and simmer for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. 4. After simmering, remove vine, and either crush tomatoes, or cool and blend using a blender or food processor. 5. Adjust taste with salt and pepper. If flavor too concentrated, add 2 Tbsp of water at a time, mix, and taste again.

INGREDIENTS 1 lb russet potatoes 2 cups all purpose flour 1 egg 1 tsp salt 1 Tbsp olive oil 4 garlic cloves ½ onion diced 6 tomatoes on the vine 1 cup apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp sugar 1 tsp oregano 4 fresh basil leaves salt and pepper to taste.

SUKIYAKI STYLE JAPANESE HOT POT

by Ethyn Leong

servings: 6

INGREDIENTS

1. In a medium saucepot, rehydrate shitake mushrooms in 3 cups of water at room temperature. Remove mushrooms once rehydrated and set aside. 2. To the mushroom water, add dashi no moto, soy sauce, mirin, sake, white sugar, and grated ginger, mix, and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Once sugar is dissolved, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer for 20 minutes. 3. Do the following while soup is simmering: a. Boil noodles according to package instructions b. Dice tofu into 1’’ cubes, and fry over high heat until sides begin to brown c. Cut carrots into thin rounds 4. To serve, divide beef, both types of mushrooms, noodles, tofu, carrots, and green onions evenly between all servings, and place into bowls. Pour soup over ingredients; the hot soup will cook the raw beef. 5. Optional: Dip cooked meat in whisked egg yolk before eating. It is important for eggs to be AA to ensure safety.

3 cups water 5 tsp dashi no moto dried fish stock 1 ½ cups soy sauce 1 cup mirin 1 cup sake 3 Tbsp white sugar 2 Tbsp fresh grated ginger 6 oz dried shitake mushrooms 6 oz enoki mushrooms 12 oz thinly sliced beef 1 cup sliced green onions 8 oz firm tofu 1 large carrot 1 package dried udon noodles 6 AA grade eggs (optional

DIRECTIONS

by Ethyn Leong

O-ZONI JAPANESE NEW YEAR CEREMONIAL SOUP servings: 5

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine water, salt, dashi no moto, and soy sauce in a large pot, and bring to a boil over medium heat. 2. Peel and dice taro root into 1/2’’ cubes. Slice radish and carrot, and lotus root into thin rounds. 3. Add taro cubes to boiling stock and boil for 7 minutes. 4. Add sliced daikon, carrot, and lotus root, and boil for 5 min. 5. Strain clams, and add along with watercress leaves, and cook for 3 min. 6. Add mochi, and boil until tender. 7. Serve in bowls, with one piece of mocha per person

INGREDIENTS 3 cups water 1 ¼ tsp salt 3 tsp dashi no moto (dried fish stock) 1 tsp soy sauce 1 daikon radish 1 large carrot 1 lotus root 1 10oz can whole 1 cup watercress leaves 1 taro root 5 pieces fresh or frozen mochi

The year is 2017. Innovation has progressed to the point where we can eat a croissant-donut, rolls of ice cream, sushi in a burrito, and rainbow bagels; yet, people have decided to simplify their eating style reverting back to a primal diet, known as the Paleo diet. For the most part, Paleo consists of eating meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, eggs and nuts, and restricting grains, added sugar, processed foods, dairy, and legumes. However, in following such a diet, one is depriving him/ herself of important nutrients, harming the environment through meat consumption, and often times becoming consumed by the 12 past rather than living in the present.

t e i D s ' a m d n a r G r u o Y b

nie y An

s Weis

"There is nothing revolutionary about something so stuck in the past, it ignores the present." Even if people on the Paleo diet are not eating grains, their meat is! The topic of animal agriculture is becoming increasingly controversial as we gain more and more data on the associated environmental consequences. Pesticides, fertilizers, and manure runoff are contaminating water bodies resulting in dead zones and leading to increased algae blooms. Animal agriculture is a greater factor in greenhouse gas production than all modes of transportation combined, leading to production of 18% of total emissions. Additionally, 53% of the world’s fisheries are being exploited. With the Paleo’s focus on meat and fish, the diet is extremely taxing on the environment. So, even though it’s practitioners may believe that they are leading more wholesome, disconnected lives, they are actually ensuring that their footprints make their mark. Elizabeth Kolbert, author of The Sixth Extinction: An Unusual History, commented “paleo’s ‘Let them eat steak’ approach is a [greenhouse gas] disaster.” People become so enchanted with the inner cleansing associated with Paleo, that they so easily ignore it’s externalities and it’s ability to become an all consuming obsession. Michelle Tam, the blogger behind “Nom Nom Paleo” started on the Paleo diet four years ago. It started as a fascination but then turned into an obsession. She began the diet with a desire to lose weight and increase her energy. It was successful. Now, Tam wears amber goggles when using her phone after 8PM to avoid blue-spectrum light, removed all clocks from her bedroom, and has implemented blackout window inserts to virtually mimic cave habitation. Furthermore, she has quit her job working at a hospital to run her blog full time, has a cooking app, a cooking book,

and action figure, which is all quite peculiar since her career is now simultaneously based on utilizing social media and today’s communication while acting as a proponent for an ancient living style. As James Hamblin pointed out in his article for The Atlantic, “Mistakes in ‘Paleo Eating’," the rejection of technology and modernity is absurd. It’s developing technology which is allowing us to enrich our culture in various ways, especially in the food industry. Is it more likely that we will feed 10 billion people sustainable by the middle of the century on traditional meat or petri dish meat? Clearly, the latter. But, our ancestors didn’t eat this way, so therefore, according to the Paleo ideology, it must be inferior. The Paleo diet is falling short in numerous ways. A 2016 study published in Nutrients, a nutrition journal, concluded that the Paleo diet leads to deficiencies of thiamin, riboflavin, and calcium. 22 women were instructed to follow the Paleo diet for four weeks, while 17 women followed the diet outlined by the Australian Guide to Healthy Eating. After this period, it was found the Paleo diet resulted in an average weight loss of 7 lb. The women also happened to lose important nutrients, consuming far less than those in the other group. The National Institute of Health recommends a daily intake of 1.1 mg of thiamin, 1.1 mg riboflavin, and 1000 mg of calcium. The women on the Paleo diet missed the mark, eating 0.96 mg of thiamin, 1.47 mg of riboflavin, and 355 mg of calcium. So how great is the Paleo diet? Not that great after all. It’s touted as revolutionary, but there is nothing revolutionary about something so stuck in the past, it ignores the present.

TLC: Root Awakening by Yuna Chung

We’ve all been there – or unfortunately, reaching that point. With temperatures dropping well below average, the Cornell bug going around, one too many all-nighters, and prelims on top of prelims, each and every one of us are in need for some serious TLC: a prescription for some good food and healing. Instead of having your everyday bowl of chicken noodle soup, take a different, cultural route and give these five Asian remedy soups a try. Though each soup differs in region, flavor, and preparation, they incorporate aromatic spices and herbs that help rejuvenate and restore the body.

1 Tom Khai Kai Tom Kha Kai (Soup Galanagal) is a flavorful coconut and ginger soup that features classic Thai ingredients. Galangal is a pungent root, similar to ginger but more peppery, used in Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian cuisine. This mafin ingredient acts as the warm, soothing factor and also balances the mild sweetness of the coconut milk. In Thai culture, this soup is the ultimate remedy to fight off upper respiratory infections. For this reason, people prepare it in large batches and keep it stored for cold winter months. With powerful immune ingredients like lemongrass, cilantro, and garlic, this dish not only explodes with unique flavors but also keeps the Cornell bug away. Try this mouthwatering soup at Tamarind Thai or check out My Recipes for a simple recipe by Jiranooch Shapiro.

2 Mishoshiru You may have seen this soup on the menu of many Japanese or sushi restaurants: Misoshiru (Miso Soup). Miso is seasoned paste of fermented soybean that helps strengthen the immune system and detoxify and nourish the overall body. Although you can enjoy a simple bowl of miso soup with some spring onion for an added crunch, you can also add greens or vegetables (mushroom, spinach, seaweed, kale, tofu) for protein and extra flavor. For a quick fix on cold days, follow Food Babe’s quick and easy recipe or order a pack of Miyasaka instant miso soup on Amazon.

3 Seolleongtang Seolleongtang (Beef bone soup) reportedly has its origins from the Joseon Dynasty when King Seongjong wanted a dish prepared after an ancestral worship ritual with a sacrificial cow. As the dish is widely served in Korean restaurants today, the king succeeded in creating a dish that feeds the maximum amount of people with the least amount of ingredients. Seolleongtang is a staple Korean soup that tastes the best when prepared with a milky, rich beef broth that has been simmering for many many hours. This special broth acts as a soup base for many other Korean soups and restores the body with calcium, amino acids, and added protein from the brisket. Next time you’re at Collegetown, eat Seolleongtang with some friends at Four Seasons or make the dish with Crazy Korean Cooking’s thorough, detailed recipe.

4 Laksa lemak Laksa Lemak is the perfect combination of warmth and spice. The base of this soup is a smooth blend of creamy coconut milk and chicken stock. Like a traditional southeast Asian curry, this dish incorporates shrimp, chicken, and fried tofu and goes great with sambal oelek, a popular chili garlic sauce. However, the main vingredient is laksa, which is a pungent shrimp paste made with shallots, chilies, lemongrass, turmeric, and other spices. The components of Laksa Lemak – like the types of noodles, amount of coconut milk, and toppings – also vary by the region – Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore. Watch Nyonya Cooking on YouTube to learn how to make your own laksa curry.

5 Pho Pho (Beef noodle soup) is Vietnam’s favorite cold remedy that can almost be found anywhere. This rice noodle soup is traditionally prepared with a flavorful beef broth and loaded with rice noodles, beef brisket (or meatballs at Saigon Grill), bean sprouts, cilantro, and lime. Add Hoison sauce, Sriracha or a personal favorite, sambal oelek, to your liking for an added heat and “oomph” to this awesome dish. In addition to making a stop at Terrace or Saigon Grill, go on All Recipe to find an authentic pho recipe. After one bite, you’ll be asking ‘pho (fuh)’ more! This is not your everyday chicken noodle soup. Some people are often hesitant to try new things but ultimate foodies, like myself, cherish the memorable experience of eating a dish for the very first time. There are thousands of foods from all around the world to choose from and perhaps, these five dishes could be your first step in exploring your roots or experiencing new cultures. 15

food fusion: the tradition behind the trend by Kristen Yi

To many, “fusion” cuisine is nothing more than a passing trend. Ramen burgers, sushi burritos, kimchi quesadillas — it seems like every day a new and innovative food combination pops up on social media. Usually blending contrasting flavors into a single new and delicious dish, these foods have been recently growing in popularity, especially in regards to combining “ethnic” cuisines. However, for many (including myself), multicultural meals hold a deeper meaning rooted in mixed family heritage rather than fleeting fads. Growing up with a Filipino mother and a Korean father, fused flavors were always the norm in our house. With weekly meals ranging from Philippine chicken adobo and vegetable lumpia (egg rolls) to Korean beef bulgogi and tofu doenjang jjigae (soup), today’s trending “ethnic” dishes were just normal features in our family kitchen. Only when bringing my favorite Korean shrimp chips for school lunch in middle school (what my classmates called “weird-smelling French fries”) did I realize my diet was not of a typical American child. Raised on a combination of shrimp pancit, chicken japchae, and (of course) mac n’ cheese, I found it strange that not everyone ate the same foods as me. How could everyone not love eating rice for every meal? Yet, thankfully this “out-of-place” feeling did not last. I eventually came to embrace my mixed heritage, especially in terms of cuisine, as it allowed me to better experience and explore and appreciate the vast cultures of both of my parents’ motherlands. On a wider note, contrasting to these personal experiences from growing up in suburban America, multiracial families are gradually becoming a more familiar sight in the world today. With over 6.9% of Americans identifying themselves with two or more races, the prevalence of “mixed” interracial families has thankfully began to flourish in recent years, much to the excitement of my family and, surprisingly,

the food industry. Growing at rates three times that of the rest of the population, this recent rise of American interracial families has also come to coincide with a sprouting of love for the food their unique cultural combinations bring. Now foods, like tahini, acai, bibimbap, sriracha, taro, are becoming household names commonly featured in restaurants and everyday products, like ice cream and potato chips. Yet, although the newfound popularity of these “ethnic” foods are a sense of pride for people of their respective heritages, an underlying question still persists: is it fair to dub these traditional dishes of cultures as current food trends? In retrospective, the current foods the world deems “exotic” have always been staples to those from where the dishes originated. Like the association of the 4th of July with barbecues and hamburgers, they remind people of home and are a sense of heretical identity instead of current day trendiness. In fact, UNESCO continues to identify cuisines, foods, and cooking practices as being official “Intangible Cultural Heritages” due to their cultural significant in their respective countries. With over ten of these culinary “Intangible Cultural Heritages” already established, the current list ranges from the Mediterranean diet and Croatian gingerbread making to Turkish coffee and traditional Mexican. In combination with their personal significance to many from their respective cultures, these foods embody an edible heritage passed down through generations. They symbolize the persistence of the culture of nations through time. Although “fusion foods” remain a more recent product of globalization, they also serve as a similar modern homage to the heritages they pull from. Representing a greater cultural meaning behind food, these twists on the tradition give consumers a brief glimpse of the cultures they represent while making the world’s growing population of “mixed” individuals feel right at home. 17

by Harrison Cui When we think of Chinese food, our minds typically gravitate towards spicy Szechuan cuisine, the delights of dimsum, or takeout from Panda Express. To me, however, the food in Xi’an is where it is at. Although relatively obscure compared to the bustling hubs of Beijing and Shanghai, Xi’an holds a rich cultural history as well as streets lined with stores catering edible delights. Besides containing the renowned Terracotta Army of Emperor Qin, Xi’an is also well known for its small yet substantial appetizers. From toasted flat-breads packed with spiced pork belly to thick, flat noodles drenched in a garlicky chili sauce, Xi’an is home to a variety of a mouthwatering treats. In my recent travel to Xi’an, I ventured outside my air-conditioned apartment into the sweltering a hundred and four-degree Summer heat with one goal in mind—to taste Xi’an’s famous Shaanxi liang pi. The cold, flat rice noodles drizzled with a mix of black vinegar, soy sauce, and chili oil with a side of shredded cucumber and wheat gluten had long been a childhood favorite dish of mine. Amidst the various Xi’an foods my mother grew up around, she reminisced her grandmother’s liang pi with the most nostalgia. The simple yet enticing dish is a mix of spicy, savory, and vinegary tang, and the range of textures provides the eater with mixed sensations in the mouth. Among the soft chewy noodles are refreshing bites of cucumber and surprisingly spongy bits of wheat gluten.

Back in California, my mother would drag my brother and I along with her to sample liang pi from an array of local Chinese restaurants. Each time I would eye the heap of glistening red and green with chopsticks in hand as the plate approached our table. However, the first taste was always reserved for her, and we would wait patiently for the judgement of her palate which had tasted countless plates of liang pi. But each time she would comment, “味道不真宗,” or the flavor lacked authenticity. My mother’s open disappointment deepened my desire to taste the real deal, a dream I would realize back in her hometown. In Xi’an, my relatives brought us to a restaurant they frequented for classic liang pi. My mother once again took her first bite. But this time something was different—she urged us all sample the familiar dish. As I slurped up the chewy red noodle, I glanced up to see my relatives—grandparents, distant cousins, nieces and nephews—seated around the table savoring the same spicy, tangy noodles. While much of my satisfaction did come from tasting the liang pi foretold in the legends of my childhood, I felt a certain joy in gathering around a table to share this meaningful platter with family. In my love for liang pi, I had reconnected with my ancestry who had once made and bonded over this very same dish. I strongly encourage my fellow Cornellians to sample liang pi and other Xi’an foods. One can savor the taste of liang pi at Xi’an Famous Foods in New York City or attempt to recreate the simple yet delicious dish at home.

by Elizabeth Qian As a native of the Philly area, I can assure you that the bustling food scene in the city stretches far beyond cheesesteaks, hoagies, and soft pretzels. Restaurants reflect the historic yet quickly developing city in the balance of old and new cuisines. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re spending the day eating around Philadelphia, here are some of my favorite recommendations for each meal.

PARC

Start your day off right with breakfast at Parc Brasserie, a charming Parisian-style bistro in Rittenhouse Square. This polished cafe features a traditional French classics such as Vol au Vent, Polenta and Eggs Basquaise, and Quiche Lorraine. The menu also features handmade baked goods such as flaky croissants, fresh baguettes, and colorful macarons. Look no further for the perfect place to impress outof-town guests or celebrate special occasions.

Tip: Grab a table outside for the perfect people-watching spot!

For lunch, venture to Chinatown for the best ramen in the city. Terakawa features a wide variety of options, from the Terakawa to Shoyu to Spicy Miso. All bowls contain a generous portion of wavy noodles and rich soup topped with meat, soft-boiled eggs, and an assortment of garnishes. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not feeling ramen, try the Karaage Chicken Curry, a huge portion of ginger-marinated fried chicken soaked in Japanese curry sauce over rice.

TERAKAWA 20

Tip: Order a side of curry as an add-on to your ramen for the best of both worlds!

Jose Garces’ iconic Spanish bodega restaurant is the ideal place for a family-style dinner. Must-have tapas include the Spanish tortilla with saffron aioli, ham croquettes with romesco, and lamb meatballs with shaved manchego. If you’re feeling ambitious, order one of the extravagant house specials. The roast suckling pig dinner comes with a sprawling array of carved pork, sides, and sangria, and the decadent seafood paella elevates a classic dish with a whole lobster and squid ink.

AMADA

Tip: Come during Philadelphia Restaurant Week for a 5-course meal for $35!

READING TERMINAL MARKET An eating tour of Philly wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Reading Terminal Market, a historic indoor food bazaar featuring over 80 diverse vendors. Find sweet treats here like donuts, whoopie pies, and sticky buns from Beiler’s Donuts and cannolis and cheesecake from Termini Brothers. Don’t miss Dutch Eating Place’s apple dumpling, a whole baked apple wrapped in cinnamon pastry, which tastes incredible topped with a scoop of world-famous Bassett’s ice cream.

Tip: Can’t decide? Get the Pumpple Cake at Flying Monkey Bakery, an over-the-top creation that combines chocolate cake, vanilla cake, pumpkin pie, and apple pie into one huge dessert!

Bromello BY: ADELINE TURNER

Back to the Grains by Adeline Lerner

Oprah loves bread.

To me, there is nothing better than a fresh loaf of challah, buttery biscuit or chewy bagel, with some softened butter or strawberry jam. And to others, bread is the fundamental food of the ages. I mean, can we really blame her for loving it so much? So, I do agree with Oprah: I love bread, and I bet you do too. A long time ago in a land far, far away, bread was flat. It was a very simple mix of water and grains, and then laid out over a hot rock to cook. This type of bread making is still popular; we see it with naan, pita bread, and tortillas. Then, around 300 B.C., ancient Egyptian bread makers were the first to commercially bake leavened breads, and this was revo- wait for itlutionary. It was the first time bread wasn’t flat!; bread was fluffy and airy, and all because of a microorganism called yeast. I don’t wanna talk up yeast too much, but it’s kind of epic. All this little guy needs is some warm water, sugar, and time to get comfy. The yeast feeds off of the sugar and produces bubbles and bubbles of carbon dioxide. These bubbles make the bread rise, which ends up making your most beloved puffy, soft cloud of dough that is your new canvas. The versatility and varieties of breads that can be made from this simple set of ingredients makes bread an incredibly diverse food. Bread is a universal food. It is the most commonly eaten food in the world. Bread is portable and a reliable energy source. It is easily understood why so

many countries have developed their own variation of bread, it only requires four ingredients: yeast, sugar, water and flour, and when produced in different measurements and recipes, we can identify a group of people from its origin. Think about it…If you take a bite of a pizza, you are mentally teleporting to a Sicilian pizzeria. I know when I take a bite or mouthful of a fresh French baguette, I am at a table overlooking the Eiffel Tower or trudging down the cobblestone streets filled with protesters in the French revolution. I cannot blame the French for their revolution, it was for bread! In Israel, and in Jewish families all over the world, on Shabbat, a prayer is said over the bread, challah. This appreciation from bread goes back to the Torah, revealing Jews leaving Egypt with matzah (unleavened bread) because they did not have time for the bread to rise. This energy packed source of food means much more to people than we thought. When you take a bite of that bread you are revealing an entire people’s history, which helps us recognize that bread is pretty important. We may not daydream of trips to Italy and France, but we do find bread connecting to us in other ways. When we celebrate holidays, Christmas, Thanksgiving, St. Patricks Day, and Easter, we find ourselves at the table with some sort of bread. Many of us forget that we traditionally have bread on the table, but for the most part it is a staple food. Whether it is a batch of dinner rolls, or Pillsbury crescent rollsbread is on the table.

T ra di tio na l D in ne r R ol ls A delicious bread recipe to impress your next dinner guests!

Ingredients

Directions

4 cups AP flour 1/4 oz package of dry active yeast 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp salt 1 cup milk 1/3 cup unsalted butter 3 egg yolks

In a small saucepan, warm the milk and butter until its mixed throughout. In a standing mixer with a dough hook, add the warm milk butter mixture, the sugar and yeast. Allow the yeast to rise for 5 minutes (the mixture should bubble and foam).

*Makes 12 rolls

Then, add the flour, egg, salt and mix all together until the flour is incorporated. Increase the mixer speed to medium high for 5 to 7 minutes, until the dough doesn’t stick to the sides of the bowl. Grease a separate bowl with olive oil and place the dough into it (cover the dough in some residual oil); then, cover it with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise for an hour or until it has doubled in size. Pour the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and divide the dough into 12 equal portions. Roll each piece of dough into a smooth ball, and then place them all into a greased 9X13’’ baking dish. Place plastic wrap over the buns and allow to rise for another hour until they almost double in size. While rising, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Once the rolls are ready, bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown. When ready, brush with melted butter and serve immediately. Enjoy!

by Rachel Allison

CHOCOLATE GINGER SCONES 1/2 c cold unsalted butter 1 3/4 c all-purpose flour 3 Tbs brown sugar 3/4 c half and half* 1 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp nutmeg 1/4 tsp cinnamon 1/4 tsp ginger 60 g dark chocolate 60 g candied ginger optional topping 1 tbs cream 2 tbs coarse raw sugar eg. Demerara

DIRECTIONS

servings: 6

1. Preheat oven to 400 F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. Combine flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger. 4. Cut butter and flour mixture together until you achieve pea-sized butter pieces. 5. Stir in the half and half using a fork until the dough just comes together. 6. On a lightly floured surface, pat dough into a rough rectangle and roll lightly to about 12” x 6” 7. Fold one third of dough towards the center, then fold the remaining third over top, along the long edge. Repeat light rolling and folding once more. (This step is optional, but the faux laminating makes the scones puff up attractively and creates nice light layers) 8. Cut scones into desired shape (I like 1.5” squares or 2” rounds), brush with cream, and sprinkle with coarse sugar. 9. Bake for 15-18 min, or until golden brown. *Half and half can be partly or fully substituted with milk for a lighter scone.

INGREDIENTS

by Rachel Allison

servings 12

DIRECTIONS 1. Heat butter on medium heat until milk solids turn a deep nutty brown. Remove from heat. 2. Add maple syrup and stir until bubbling ceases. 3. Stir in ½ tsp of coarse salt. 4. Add marshmallows and heat on low heat until melted. 5. Add Rice Kripie cereal and stir until homogeneously mixed. 6. Spread in prepared pan and press down with a non-stick spatula. 7. Sprinkle with smoked salt. 8. Allow to cool overnight. 9. Cut into 16-25 squares. 26

SALTED MAPLE BROWN BUTTER RICE KRISPIE TREATS

INGREDIENTS 1/2 cup unsalted butter 6 cups rice Krispie Cereal 4–6 tbs maple syrup 1/2 tsp coarse/flaky salt 1/2 tsp coarse smoked salt 10 oz mini marshmallows 6–6 1/2 cups mini marshmallows

BRIOCHE CURRANT CINNAMON ROLL

INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

BRIOCHE DOUGH

NO-KNEAD DOUGH

1/2 c warm water 1 tsp active dry yeast 1/2 tbs coarse salt 3 large eggs lightly beaten 3 tbs brown sugar 1/2 c unsalted butter melted 2 1/2 c all-purpose flour

1. Mix the yeast, salt, eggs, brown sugar, and melted butter with the water in a large bowl. Allow the mixture to rest about 5 minutes, until yeast begins to foam. 2. Mix in the flour, using a spoon until fully incorporated. 3. Cover the bowl lightly and allow the dough to sit at room temperature for aboute 2 hours, or until doubled in volume. 4. Optional: Chill before use for easier handling.

FILLING 1 c brown sugar 3 tbs cinnamon 1/2 c unsalted butter softened 1/2 c dried blackcurrants

by Rachel Allison

ASSEMBLE ROLLS 1. Preheat oven to 375 °F. 2. Line a baking pan (9” x 13”) with parchment paper. 3. Roll out the dough into a rectangle. It should be about 1/4” thick. 4. Combine brown sugar and cinnamon and blend well. 5. Spread the soft butter over dough and sprinkle on the brown sugar/cinnamon mixture. Make sure you get right to the edges, but leave a 1/2” along one of the long edges. 6. Scatter the currants over the filling. 7. Roll up the dough into a log starting at the long edge. Pinch dough to seal the roll. 8. Cut into 1.5” thick slices and place them ½” apart in the prepared pan. 9. Let rise for 45-60 minutes, until doubled in volume. 10. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the rolls are golden brown and internal temperature reaches 190°F. 27

hyggeligt the art of

danish cuisine a mini guide to “hyggeligt” foods by Cathy Zhang

Reflecting on my past semester abroad in Denmark and why I chose to live in a place where sun sets at 4PM everyday, where there’s more pigs and bikes than its human population, and where there’s an eternal winter for over half the year - there was something that kept me at peace with this little country of fairytales tucked in the middle of Northern Europe - the Danes’ constant embrace for hygge. It is the Danes’ ritual in enjoying life’s simple

HYGGE: noun / HOO-GUH a Danish word with no direct English translation, but most closely resembles the concept of creating a cozy atmosphere and enjoy the good things in life with those you love.

pleasures. To practice hygge also means removing objects of annoyance and clutters in your life, being minimalistic, and appreciate what you have instead of constant desires for more. Although hygge encompasses a big part of our everyday life from our interior design to our daily attitude, in this article, I’ll be focusing on hygge’s presence in cuisine how the Danes do it, from everyday meals, special occasions, to fine dining.

that rather than spending hundreds of dollars in attempting to “practice hygge” with those self-help books, fancy bed throws, mugs, and other knick knacks that will likely pile up in your room later, true hygge is quite easy to achieve. I will be sharing some tips and insights from my conversations with Danish students while I was there about hygge, and how they practiced this concept wherever they are.

While other countries constantly search for new, innovative ways to modify their traditional cuisine (think: Hakkasan with its fusion Dim Sum, Osteria Francescana with their nouveau Italian raviolis), the Danes have instead taken a step back to embrace their roots by incorporating hygge into their childhood favorite dishes, and introduce these dishes to the world.

For one of the tiniest capitals in Europe, Copenhagen somehow has the highest concentration of michelin starred restaurants in its rather small area. With 18 michelin stars in 2017’s Michelin’s Guide, the restaurant scene is bustling. Coming to the city I thought that, with such a hot dining scene, the Danes are lucky to have world-renowned restaurants surrounding within bike miles from their homes. However as I got to know my classmates, they laughed when I asked them if they eat out every weekend. “Honestly, these restaurants get most of their businesses from visitors. As much as we do love innovative, modern Danish food, we only enjoy it occasionally when friends visit or on holidays. We can’t afford that everyday!” giggled one of my classmates. They were not wrong. While the 25% tax in Denmark goes back to benefit the citizens in social welfare support, most people cannot afford the luxury of eating at Michelin stars weekly, and prefer to cook at home with fresh, taxfree ingredients instead and enjoy them with some good company. After all, some of the best things in life are free. Here are some tips on creating a hyggeligt mealtime in your dorm or your home, from observations I’ve made during visits to restaurants and homes of Danes.

So what is this hype about hygge? Ranked as the only non-English word in Collin Dictionary’s Top 10 Words of 2016 and after being mentioned countless times in big heads from NYT to The Guardian, it is evident that the world is going crazy after this one single but powerful word. In US, hygge concept stores started popping up in major cities and online in satisfying this great new market demand for people around the world to equip themselves with “essential tools to hyggeligt (HOO-GUH-LY) living” as the stores brand hygge as the secret to happiness, as Danes are ranked one of the happiest group of people in the world. Little did you know

components of a HYGGELIGT MEALTIME Candles, pillows, blankets Some cooking buddies Homemade dishes! Minimalist and multifunctional furnitures Sustainable, local, seasonal ingredients Nutrient-dense Family-style serving Don’t forget about pastries and cakes!

a sample danish hyggeligt brunch menu FALL EDITION Apple Pie DIY Yogurt Parfait Bar Seasonal Fruits: Peaches, Apples, Plums, etc. Porridge: Oatmeal, Barley, Lentils Egg Muffin Cups Dark Rye Bread Cheese, Butter, Apricot Jam Croissants Coffee and Tea

As you can see, it is possible to embrace the art of hygge even in a stressful environment like Cornell. Sometimes it’s not about how many blankets you buy or how many tea bags you brew to create a “cozy” atmosphere for yourself, but more about combining life’s little things that make you happy to have a great time. To me, nothing says ‘it’s winter’ like getting up late and making an easy, nutritious Sunday brunch. And nothing is more hyggelig than sitting around a warm, candlelit table with friends and eating breakfast delights. As the cold begins to set in, it’s time to cook up and enjoy some of those hyggeligt foods yourself!

Immigrant Food Culture

By Elijah Fox

The aroma of the restaurant was the first thing to hit me as I walked into Beijing Jianbing on a late Thursday afternoon. A sweet and savory scent wafted over from the exposed kitchen to the door, partnering with the warm air of the interior to draw my lunch companion and me in from the brisk autumn day. We had been anticipating this for a week; the excitement was palpable. I had the privilege of escaping the dining halls of campus to join Crème de Cornell’s photographer, April, for a Chinese lunch. A Chinese American, she would provide an inside perspective to the culture of the food we were about to eat, and I would embrace it from the vantage point of an outsider. The experience was novel and thrilling. April approached the counter with a confident ease and ordered the Beijing Jianbing Crêpe, a short of egg crêpe filled with fried vegetables and duck. I sheepishly followed with an identical order, trusting her judgement as much as I doubted my own, and we proceeded to sit down and wait. As the premise of the article is experiencing the food of an immigrant culture with a member of that culture, our small talk began to transition toward a quasi-interview. I sought stories of April’s background and culinary tastes and worldly experiences. As the conversation moved to home cooking, she stopped me: “This feels almost like being in a petting zoo.”

Her tone was jestful but I immediately realized my error. I was in this restaurant experiencing the food of her culture as an observer. My role needed to be not examining, but participating. So I dove in. The food arrived still steaming, and as we walked over to the window to photograph it in good lighting I began the two-way reciprocal conversation we should have had all along. The meal in front of us instigated the talk. As we donned a plastic glove on our left hands and chopsticks in our right to more easily eat the cumbersome crêpe (the glove was a novel experience for me), stories flowed freely between us about our dinners back home. “I’m Chinese-American,” April explained, “but the cuisine of choice for my family is really Chinese-Korean fusion.” I went on in detail about the Jewish cooking that defined by own experience growing up. Her descriptions of family dinner fused with my own; her family’s immigrant background mirrored that of mine, albeit three generations back. The Beijing Jianbing crêpe extracted our childhood memories, and we marveled in their striking similarities and stark differences. 32

“This makes me nostalgic,” she confessed. “Obviously the Chinese food of the Bay Area is unbeatable, but this really brings me back.” The nervousness that had defined the first minutes of our excursion (and my second time meeting April) was now completely washed away. Sharing an identical dish and similar stories revealed parallels between us we could not have expected. Talk of my family’s matzo ball soup brought me to explaining the holiday of Passover; an explanation of Americanized Chinese food drew out her recounting of the foundation of modern China. The purpose of food is twofold: to satiate and nourish, and to bring people together. Nearly every culture across the globe uses mealtime as an opportunity to foster family relationships, welcome guests, and share build community. The power of the plate is potent and inescapable. I of course must say that the food was delicious and satisfying and I will definitely go back, but the magic of the outing was created by the exchange and display of self. For $13 dollars each, the meal was wholesome and satisfying and certainly worth it. But the immersion through food into a culture, whether familiar or foreign, is priceless.

Back to the roots,

or back to the future?

by Lily Zhong Back to the roots, or back to the future? From traditional recipes passed down by family and friends to the broad portfolio that root vegetables have to offer us, this magazine has and will touch upon all. But what about the future of food? What about the growing innovative uses of a staple produce? Whether it’s mixing the techniques of science where pearls of flavor burst on our tongue, or redefining the presentation and plating of a chef’s hard work, perhaps it is also time to think about the future of what we eat. For the next section of inked lines in this magazine, I ask you to come open minded as we move on a journey to explore the more contemporary and meticulous recipes that exist in our world. We will engage with various branches under the molecular gastronomy umbrella so that, by the end of reading this piece, you will come out more aware of just some of the wonders that chefs across the world are dreaming up for us. When we think of the future of cooking, many of us are familiar with the images associated with molecular gastronomy. The whimsical dance of smoke and fumes seeping out of the plated dish, or the transparent glob of jellylike substance which encases two more flavors than you imagined; that’s just sampling from the molecular gastronomy umbrella.

A good place to start our journey in the world of ‘new age cooking’ can be with no other than Ferran Adrià. A chef from Spain, Ferran has pioneered the use of precise scientific techniques to bring about the more provocative side of food. Calling it ‘deconstructivist’ cuisine, his creations began with playing with the ability to add subtly flavored foam to complement many of his dishes. As his experiments broadened in depth and became more daring, he was able to master the technique of ‘spherification’; the ability to capture liquids into gelatin spheres. By continuously churning out these mischievous creations and always tracing it back to his deconstructivist philosophy, Ferran has found new ways of preserving unique flavors encased in new textures.

Signature dish: ‘Liquid Olive’ - olive juice into gelatin via spherification

As we stay in Europe and travel to Great Britain, Heston Blumenthal has experimented relentlessly with ‘food-pairing’ to enhance his vision of multi-sensory cooking. Foodpairing pairs ingredients which have similar properties on a molecular level; and as a consequence, some very unusual combinations of food have been created such as his bacon-egg ice cream. Heston’s step into the multisensory cooking arena has also meant he has become more attune to the perception of food from his audience. Whether its flavor, taste, sight, or smell, he aims to confuse the flavors and surprise you with his creations so that you are forever guessing what it is you’re about to eat.

Signature dish: ‘Meat Fruit’ molding chicken liver parfait into a layer of citrus mandarin jelly

From understanding multisensory cooking, it’s a good platform as any to then make the jump into the more emotional cuisine, where every dish created is intended to be consumed in the theatrical and poignant setting. For this, US chef Grant Achatz should be considered as our guide. Grant’s approach to cooking goes beyond just the techniques, as the way he presents and plates the food is of equal paramount. His inventive methods purposefully look to confuse the diners, and he plans it from the layout of the restaurant to the final crumb he offers to his audience. Audience participation is crucial to understand the true emotions that the food brings, and it rewards bravery.

Signature dish: ‘Tropical Fruit with Rum, Vanilla, Kaffir Lime’ - an explosive dessert created directly onto the diner’s table

Finally, after glossing over the avant-garde side of cooking techniques, it is time to look at the future of the produce itself. After discussing how extravagant and courageous the boundaries of cooking can be pushed, it’s worth bringing things down to the very beginning, and to the soil and plantation of the vegetables and fruits coveted by these chefs. Dan Barber, a preacher of the farm to table movement who looks forward to cooking with the season, is one such a chef. With his own farm and restaurant located in the rural expanse of upstate New York, he is able to curate from a genetic level, the produce he cultivates. And it is for this reason that Dan is able to boast such tasty and flavorsome produce without garnishing it with futuristic cooking techniques. Understanding how requires looking beyond what occurs at the kitchen level, and appreciating that Dan is collaborating constantly with plant breeders to broaden the variety of produce he can work with. For now, the challenge he is now tackling is to make this farm to table movement one that is sustainable and beneficial to the land it comes from.

Signature dish: ‘Vegetables on a Fence’ - own grown seasonal vegetables pierced on a woodblock

And so, after weaving a path through just a few of the prominent branches that have most recently appeared in the development of cooking, I hope you can see that it is still clearly steered on the path of excellence, honesty, and transparency with its audience. But it is also on a departure from traditional cooking and always looking to evolve; seeking innovation in the form of new ingredients, techniques, and ideas to keep it moving ahead. Perhaps the biggest contrast now lies within the movement to consciously capture the way cooking can profoundly affect people by not only engaging the sense, but the mind as well. And in order to explore the full potential that food can have, it is only natural that the pioneers in the industry look towards collaboration with scientists and chemists, to artists and engineers - all to allow for the pursuit of new dishes to keep food forever unpredictable and surprising.

crÃ¨me DE CORNELL

BACK TO THE ROOTS EDITION FALL 2017 ISSUE NO. VIII