Pastel Edition by Crème de Cornell

the pastel edition 1

Contents

staff list

editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s letter

gelatos of italy

interview with ithaca bakery

recipes: arugula salad, acorn squash soup

tuna tartar & how to plate

easters in europe

science behind color changing cocktails

mithai memories

recipes: meringues, buttercream, mousse

coloring your palate

edible flowers

recipes: roasted salmon, colorful cubed gels

recipes: rosĂŠ + frosĂŠ

which ice cream flavor are you?

the

staff of creme de cornell

editor in chief

Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang

managing editors editing staff layout director

Benjamin Chiaravanont

layout staff photography director photography staff contributing writers

Sue Cho, Victoria Litvinova, Christina Picornell Crystal Liu June-Summer Kim Kevin Cavallo Kevin Cavallo, Angel Ding, Rohini Gupta, Moon Hyung Lee, Neha Seetamraju, Henry Yang Rachel Allison, Arthur Burke, Chrissy Chen, Trang Dau, Ethyn Leong, Beth Mieczkowski, Elizabeth Qian, Rabani Singh, Kristen Yi, Cathy Zhang, Lily Zhong

culinary directors

Rachel Allison, Ethyn Leong

webmaster publicity chairs

Harrison Cui Ilayda Samilgil, June-Summer Kim

social media chair event chairs treasurer

Camille Chan Tina Choi, Jaein Kim, Coco Yang Lily Zhong

advisor

Heather Kowlakowski Creme de Cornell, an independent student publication at Cornell University, produced and is responsible for the content of this publication. This publication was not reviewed or approved by, nor does it necessarily express or reflect the policies or opinions of, Cornell University or its designated representatives. If you are interested in joining, please contact us through our website www.cremedecornell.net or find us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/cremedecornell. Funded by Cornell SAFC

pas tel p a ’s t e l /

adjective 1. Colors of soft, subdued shade; exquisitely fine. 2. Subtle and pleasing. 3. The spectrum for now.

To some, pastel may bring to mind the bright shades of pink, blue, yellow and green that come with the transition of springtime. To others, pastel may evoke memories of simple sweets and desserts as the word itself means “pastry” in Portuguese. In this age, where colors brighten the world through visions of neon lights and glowing screens, we would like to encourage you to take a step back and appreciate the colorful food culture we have today. In cuisines around the world, you can easily find how color combinations are interpreted through food. From Italian gelatos, Indian desserts and regional wines to edible flowers, colorful cocktails and cultural holidays, the use of pastel is ever-present in gourmet culture today. Subtle and pleasing to the eye, pastels in food lend an unexpecting excitement of flavor with each bite. Through subtleness in words and vividness in imagery, the definitions of pastel are brought to life on the pages of this issue. We hope our creative pursuits on the word itself inspire you to dive into colorful culinary explorations of your own.

Editor-in-Chiefs, Kristen Yi Cathy Zhang

gelatos of italy By: Chrissy Chen I was in Florence, Italy studying abroad when I decided to take it upon myself to explore the city and seek opportunities where I could immerse myself in the Italian food culture. Soon, I found myself walking through a local Italian food festival and before I knew it, I was in the front row of a culinary demonstration, sandwiched between a sea full of Italians, watching a gelato master at work. I followed along as he demonstrated how to artfully combine each ingredient with grace, whip each batch of gelato with flair, and entertain the audience with a grand smile. Vetulio Bondi, an artisanal gelato master from Florence, was at the forefront of all the action. To my surprise, he enthusiastically invited me up to the front to help him gather the gelato after it was done being made. At the end of the demo, I found myself asking Vetulio questions −despite my limited Italian vocabulary− and he proudly invited me to visit his shop, I Gelati de Bondi, to try his gelato, and to learn more about gelato making and how he became so passionate in this field. When I visited his gelateria, I quickly realized that gelato is not only a sweet frozen treat that people enjoy after dinner, but it’s also an art form and source of pride in Italian culture; some people dedicate their whole lives 6

to perfecting the art, sourcing only the best ingredients, and sharing their passion with the world.

Chianti wine− I was able to try one of the best gelatos from Gelateria Dondoli, which had won awards as the “world’s best gelato” a few In every gelateria, there are years back. Here, they mastered certain nuances that make each the art of making seasonally shop unique. In some, it’s the way enticing gelatos with a twist on they scoop the gelato − with a seasonally grown ingredients. swift flick of the wrist that creates Their selection ranged from a whimsical swirl. In others, it’s the saffron cream + toasted pine nuts, way they soften each serving of ricotta + blueberries from Fiesole, gelato with a flat paddle rather raspberry + rosemary, and pistachio than a scooper. But in many, it is + Sicilian citrus. Saffron grown in the combination of flavors, where the fields of Tuscany and Abruzzo, they showcase seasonal and local blueberries harvested in a small ingredients, that set them apart. town around Fiesole, and oranges When it comes to food, Italians and lemons grown atop trees in find seasonality in their flavors and Sicily became inspirations for just quality of ingredients extremely a handful of gelato flavors. To me, important facets. For instance, in it was interesting to see that all the summer, an Italian gelato maker the ingredients used in the making will choose to use fresh, local of these gelatos were familiar peaches grown at a nearby farm by name; however, many of the rather than import mangoes from a flavor combinations were ones I faraway land like Brazil. For Vetulio, didn’t think to match together. But a simple cherry with fresh cream is somehow, with the magic of gelato his favorite as it reminds him of his masters, they made these flavors childhood in Italy. work. During my time in Italy, I had plenty of time to taste and devour many, many cones of gelato. Because I was studying abroad during the heart of spring, I was always surrounded by a bouquet of floral and fruity flavored gelatos. In a town called San Gimignano −the mecca of

Now back to Florence− one of my favorites became Edoardo, a gelateria located in the heart of Florence. What I enjoyed about Edoardo is that they created their gelato with sustainability and animal-friendly practices in mind. The small gelateria uses local produce picked at the peak

of ripeness, which not only reduces excess travel and preservation expenses but also adds to the flavor and nutritional content of the gelato. From an animal-friendly viewpoint, Edoardo uses eggs from free-ranged chickens that have access to open air and natural feed as well as milk from cows that are able to graze freely in pasteurizes. Edoardo carries some Italian classics such as gianduja (rich chocolate creamed together with hazelnuts), straciatella (the Italian version of chocolate chip), and Buontalenti (a simple combination of high quality cream, milk, sugar, and eggs). The also featured unique flavors such as zabaglione (white wine and egg yolk) and red wine sorbet featuring Chianti, the infamous wine of Tuscany. But what really caught my attention was that they introduce one new flavor each month where they highlight a local ingredient. Some of my favorites include lavender + honey and toasted sesame where the pure flavors truly shine through the creaminess and rich flavor of the milk. The best part is that the gelateria is within walking distance from the Duomo, a famous landmark in Florence, so it will be waiting for you when you’re done climbing to the top! With all this talk about gelato, you may be wondering if there’s even a difference between ice cream and gelato. Gelato is actually not the Italian equivalent to American ice cream. It’s made with similar ingredients but produced and stored in a different way. When you compare these frozen desserts side by side, a serving of vanilla gelato typically

than gelato. Since ice cream is stored and served at colder temperatures, it melts much more slowly and has a firmer consistency. Either way you scoop it, choosing between gelato and ice cream really comes down to personal preference. If there’s one thing that I learned from my time in Italy, it’s that Italians are immensely proud of their gelato making skills. As a foodie and simply a lover of food, it’s refreshing to see how passionate others are about food, its relevance to certain people, and its influence on culture. contains 90 calories, 3 grams of fat, and 10 grams of sugar whereas a serving of vanilla ice cream contains 125 calories, 7 grams of fat, and 14 grams of sugar. Gelato has a lower amount of fat because it’s made with more milk than cream whereas ice cream is made mostly from cream. The lower fat content allows the rich flavors that are added to gelato, like zesty lemon and toasted hazelnut, to shine through. Because the flavors are even more vibrant, gelatos don’t really need to have as much added sugar. When gelato is crafted, it’s churned much more slowly than ice cream, so less air is incorporated into the mix, leaving you with a dense, velvety ribbon of creamy goodness. The secret to gelato is that it is stored in slightly warmer temperatures than ice cream, which adds to the soft and silky consistency that gelato is famous for. Because your tongue will be less “numb” from the warmer temperatures, you’ll find that you’ll be able to taste that the flavors really come through. With ice cream, the base is churned at high speeds where about 60% more air is whipped into the creamy treat, so this creates a fluffier consistency

One last fun fact, every year in Italy they hold a fierce gelato competition. I was lucky enough to attend the one last year, and boy was it a whole lot of gelato! In Florence, the competition takes place at Pizzale Michelangelo, an illustrious landmark that overlooks Florence’s cityscape of imperfect terracotta rooves across the Arno River. At the gelato festival, many trucks lined the park with 20 of the best gelatos in Florence and their makers inside each truck. Flavors ranged from a unique to classic staples like Buontalenti, Nutella infused, and frutti di bosco, a mixed berry flavor. What’s really cool is that the voting for the best gelato is up to the public, so each person who comes feels like they’re part of something larger. The proud winner of the Florence competition then moves on to competing against the gelato makers from cities such as Rome, Turin, Naples, and Milan to see who can truly make the best gelato in Italy. 7

SWEET U C E S S

By: Elizabeth Qian

Interview with Ramsey Brous of CTB / Ithaca Bakery With their ever-expanding menu of bagels, sandwiches, and pastries, Collegetown Bagels and Ithaca Bakery are iconic fixtures in the local food scene. Beyond the menu, the business is backed by a rich history of family ownership and community support. The Brous and Mehaffey families first purchased Collegetown Bagels (CTB) and Ithaca Bakery (IB) in the 1980s, and now, there are 5 CTB and IB locations with 300 employees. We spoke with Ramsey Brous, one of the current owners, to learn more about his experiences in the industry.

Q: Can you tell me about your personal background and how you got into this business? A: I grew up in Ithaca and went to Ithaca College for photography. My family went into the bagel business originally in 1981, so I worked in the business through high school and college. When I was preparing to graduate from college, I was asked by my family to commit to the business for a couple of years to help get the Ithaca Bakery project off the ground. Q: What’s the history behind CTB and Ithaca Bakery? A: CTB started in 1976 by three young guys from the New York City area, who started and ran the business. One of the three was still working there when we purchased the business, and he was actually the one with the baking skills, and taught my brother how to bake as well. Q: Do you bake at all? A: The only thing that I learned how to bake and was pretty good at was bagels. I did that for about a year. While I enjoyed it very much, it is a very challenging endeavor. It’s physically very challenging, and working overnight is definitely not for everyone.

Q:: What’s your favorite part of your job now? A: One of the things that I like best is interacting with customers and being down on the floor. I like to do stock of shelves and coolers so I can get out of the office and be available for customers— both customers who are having a good time and those who are experiencing an issue. I do enjoy that aspect of the job very much and it tends to be very positive. I also recognize many of our customers, and appreciate that community feeling. Q: What are some of the best-selling products right now? A: Our best-selling products remain fairly constant, and those would be our sandwiches, soups, and coffee, which sell in large volumes. In general, we like to adapt our menu regularly to get rid of the products that aren’t moving so fast and add new categories that our customers are looking for. For example, we just rolled out a modified sandwich menu and added a selection of grilled cheese sandwiches that are doing very well. Q: Are there any seasonal items coming out for spring? A: We have items every month that we highlight

such as new sandwiches, pastries, bagel of the month, featured drinks, etc. We also do things for holidays coming up, such as our green sprinkled donuts for St. Patrick’s Day. For March, we featured 2 sandwiches: Spring a Leek (sautéed leeks, mushrooms, Swiss cheese, and herbed butter on sourdough bread), and Pickle Your Fancy (corned beef, cheese fondue, beer pickled onions, jalapenos, arugula, and stone-ground mustard on a Kaiser roll). Q: Do you have any advice for students looking to get into the Food & Beverage industry? A: For those looking to open your own business, the old adage about any kind of business is “location, location, location.” I would say that’s very much true, and we definitely found that to be the case for us. Ithaca, in general, is a very stable economy, which has worked to our advantage over the years. Aside from Ithaca being a good place to do business, we’ve attempted to put our stores in the most visible places in town, which sometimes means paying a higher rent, but it’s worth it for the locations. It’s extremely helpful to have all of the college students, faculty, and support network in town, and we love interacting with everyone.

arugula salad with sorrel & eggs one serving 5 CUPS ARUGULA 2 CUPS SWEET PEAS, CUT DIAGONALLY 1/2 CUP DICED APPLE 1/4 CUP GOLDEN RAISINS 1/4 CUP SORREL JUICE 1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL 2 TSP BLACK PEPPER SALT 1 EGG 1 TBSP SALTED BUTTER BLACK PEPPER

SALAD Set aside a small amount of peas, apple, and golden raisins. Combine arugula and remaining sweet peas, apple, and golden raisins. Toss until thoroughly mixed.

DRESSING Combine sorrel juice, olive oil, and black pepper in a bowl. Whisk until oil and juice is fully incorporated. Adjust taste with salt and pepper.

EGG

-MUST BE PREPARED CLOSE TO SERVING SALAD

Crack egg into a small metal bowl. Melt butter in a small frying pan over medium high heat. Pour egg into frying pan and let it sit still for 30 seconds. Place 1 tsp water near the egg. Cover with the metal bowl. Remove cover for 1 minute, and place egg on a plate.

ASSEMBLY Toss salad with dressing (2 Tbsp at a time) until the flavor matches your personal taste. Place a mound of salad in the center of a serving plate. Decorate salad with sweet peas, apple, and raisins that were set aside. Using a round cookie cutter, a ring mold, or a cup, cut out a circle of egg with the yolk in the center; discard remaining egg. Gently lay egg over salad. 10

ACORN SQUASH SOUP one serving 1 ACORN SQUASH 1 TBSP OLIVE OIL 1 CUP VEGETABLE STOCK 1/2 CUP HEAVY CREAM 1 TBSP NUTMEG 2 TSP RED PEPPER SALT 1 MINI-LOG CHEVRE GOAT CHEESE 1 BRUSSELS SPROUT 1 SLICE BREAD

SOUP Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut squash in half and cover flesh with olive oil. Place on a baking tray (cut side down), and roast in oven for 40 minutes. Scrape roasted flesh from squash, and blend in a food processor. Over medium high heat, combine squash, vegetable stock, heavy cream, nutmeg, and red pepper in a pot. Stir until mixture simmers, and adjust taste with salt.

GARNISH Goat cheese: Break chèvre log into chunks and place in soup. Brussels sprout: Cut off base, peel apart leaves, and blanch in boiling water for 10 seconds. Place on soup surface, cup side up. Bread: Preheat oven to 200°F. Slice into cubes, and slightly toast for 10 minutes on a baking sheet. Place in Brussels sprout cups or on surface of soup.

TU N

TARE R A T

HO W

I am the sort of person who skips straight to the entreé section of the menu. It is the practical approach to ordering – I start with the main course and work my way backwards. After all, appetizers are there to enhance the main course, not to overshadow it. However, every once in a while, I notice that my orders start looking the same; the NY strip steak on my plate looks remarkably similar to the one I ate a few days earlier. In times like these, I change up my routine and look towards the appetizers. From personal experience, the first course almost never ruins a meal. This is especially true for shared hors d’oeuvres as these dishes present almost 12

A L P

TE By: Arthur Burke

no risk. Being afraid of an appetizer is analogous to being afraid of dipping your toe in a pool. A person needs to get a sense for the temperature before the diving in. For food, appetizers accomplish this same purpose. Recently, I developed this method while searching the entreés for something meaty to satisfy my hunger. But, luckily, another dish caught my eye first. It was tuna tartare, served with pickled radish, cucumbers, and wasabi aioli. As the waitress brought it to my table, I felt the thrills and excitement of adventure. It was tuna tartare, served with pickled radish, cucumbers, and wasabi aioli. As the waitress

brought it to my table, I felt the thrills and excitement of adventure. The presentation itself was light, colorful, and stunning but understated. There were no swirls of aioli strewn about the plate or inedible decorum that had to be removed before diving in. The dish was a simple mold of tuna, supported by the pickled vegetables. It was delicious. The star of the show was undoubtedly the tuna, which outshined the pair of herbed garlic lamb chops. In my desire to fully submerse myself into this new culinary genre of appetizers, I decided to take a crack at my own version of tuna tartare. However, my first attempt strayed quite far from the restaurant version I enjoyed. This revised version was designed to serve a party rather than act as an introductory item on a menu. Of a shareable size, the dish focused on being approachable and welcoming. To prepare my take on tuna tartare , I first cubed the tuna into approximately quarter inch lengths. Next, I marinated the cubes in a bath of sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger, lime juice, and lime zest. After twenty minutes, I began to build the tartare. Starting from the base, I layered slices of avocado, followed by a layer of tuna. I repeated this process until I achieved an imperfect dome shape. Not satisfied with the presentation so far, I set about beautifying the dish with slices of radishes and a dash of black sesame seeds. Finally content with my work, I dug in and was happy with the taste and balance of flavors, but something else was still not quite right. After careful thinking, I realized what was missing—the elegance. So with a full stomach, I set about refining my method. My first instinct was to look back and examine what made that restaurant dish so special. The juxtaposition of its simple design and complex flavors had been captivating. In my next attempt, I sought to emulate this principle by making the dish for the individual.

The size then became my main tuna tartare recipe. concern. I shrunk the profile to be As a starting point, here’s my about three bites. I also ditched individualized, refined version: the avocado for slices of cucumbers and pickled radishes. This change ingredients. allowed me to branch out with my serves 4 design. Starting from a base of sliced 8 oz sushi grade ahi tuna cucumber, I layered a small amount 1/8 cup dark soy sauce of tuna and encased the design in a 1 tbsp. fish sauce swirl of pickled radish. The shape was ½ tbsp. honey ½ tbsp. sesame oil reminiscent of a closed flower. The ¼ tbsp. grated ginger pickling process also was especially ¾ cup mayonnaise helpful in making this design 2 tbsp. wasabi paste possible as the slices became more Thinly sliced pickled radish Thinly sliced cucumber pliable. From this point onwards, Pickled ginger my additions were superficial. I laid Juice and zest of one lime a base of micro greens around the Sea salt to taste base of my tuna flower. Then, I gave Red pepper to taste the dish a further green look with a dash of wasabi paste and scallions, method. though these additions proved to First, make the aioli by thoroughly be unnecessary. As I continued to mixing the wasabi paste and experiment, I discovered that the mayonnaise in bowl. The use of an most elegant version was also the immersion blender may speed up the process but it is not needed. simplest. Why was simpler better? The Second, cube the tuna into quarter reason was itself, simple. The star of inch lengths and combine with the show in any tartare had to be the about two tablespoons of aioli. meat. That was what gave the dish Add the soy sauce, fish sauce, flavor. Adding more to the dish that lime juice, lime zest, sesame oil, didn’t highlight the flavor of the tuna black sesame seeds, and ginger. only led to a messier and distorted Season the tuna with salt and red flavor. In addition, adding too many pepper if needed. Refrigerate elements became overdone. I didn’t and let the tuna marinate for approximately a half hour. want to hide the star of the show behind the backdrop elements. Third, pickle the radishes. Slice My experimentation with tuna the bulbs thinly on a mandolin or tartare illustrated a few core culinary with a sharpened knife. Blanch for principles for my future reference. thirty seconds before transferring When it came to presentation and to an ice water bath. Dry off the design, simpler was almost always slices and transfer to a bowl of ideal. Furthermore, bigger wasn’t rice wine vinegar, sugar, and salt. always better. Sometimes shrinking Refrigerate and let pickle for one things down was the only way to hour. really appreciate all aspects of a Finally, serve on a small plate. dish. It also was important to attempt Begin with the base of cucumber recipes blindly. Following a guide slices. Then place a tower of helped, but making a truly spectacular tuna cubes in the center of product required knowing how this arrangement. Around this every flavor interacts with the others core, layer the pickled radish in flavors. That knowledge could only overlapping circles. Decorate be found through experimentation. with extra wasabi aioli and drizzle In the spirit of experimentation – I with a small amount of lime juice, encourage you to make your own if desired. 13

An Ending and Beginning

Easter Traditions around Europe

By: Beth Mieczkowski

Although you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find any reference to them in the Bible, colorful eggs are a symbol of Easter in the United States. Along with bunnies, chocolate animals, and gifts, many of these treasured Easter symbols originated centuries ago and are all seemingly different but connected through the same themesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;fertility and rebirth. Not only representing springtime (during which flowers bloom, baby animals are born, and the world becomes bright again), the Easter themes also denote the story of the resurrection of Christ. In the Christian calendar, Easter is preceded by the forty-day period of Lent, a time in which Christians must give up something valuable yet unnecessarily decadent in their everyday life (often some sort of delicious yet unhealthy food group). Thusly, Easter traditionally is both a celebration of life and the opportunity to once again eat whatever you want. Although much of Europe celebrates Easter, many of the traditions, including typical foods served, differ in each country. Despite the distinctions in ingredients and flavors, all of the dishes share the same metaphors and aesthetics. Love, growth, and rebirth. Vibrant colors mixed with more muted pastels. All are reminiscent of European Easter celebrations. Describing some (but certainly not all) of the best European dishes below, maybe next Easter one of the dishes listed will be featured at your Easter table, alongside the traditional glazed ham and mashed potatoes of course!

NETHERLANDS ADVOCAAT

Advocaat is a lightly-colored yellow drink, typically served on Easter in the Netherlands. It’s creamy, boozy, and so custardy it sometimes has to be eaten with a spoon. The drink is raw egg-based, somewhat like eggnog, but with a hint of brandy to add some spice. According to tradition, the eggs symbolize the fertility of spring and the rebirth of life on the religious holiday, a theme included in many Easter dishes throughout Europe. Advocaat is often associated with Easters from older centuries, dating back to the 1700s. Eaten in a dainty glass with a dollop of whipped cream on top, people sometimes top it with vibrant fruit or even cinnamon for extra flavor and color.

During more traditional times, Christians would most often give up sugar or butter for Lent because of how rare and expensive they were. Polish babka was born as a method for people to celebrate the family holiday while indulging in the rich delicacies they had missed for over 40 days. The term “babka” stems from the Polish word for “grandmother,” because the bread is shaped like the wide, fluted skirts older women used to wear. Deliciously laced with rum syrup and stuffed with raisins or candied fruit, babka is commonly drizzled with icing and served as the perfect Polish breakfast.

ITALIAN CASATIELLO NAPOLETANO

Similar to the Italian casatiello napoletano, the Greek tsoureki is a brioche-like braided bread flavored with mahleb, an aromatic spice made from cherry seeds. Made in a very unique way, the bread is made by incorporating butter while kneading rather than incorporating the butter as a base for the dough from the beginning. This special technique causes the texture to be soft and fluffy yet stringy. The bread, like most other Easter dishes, is lightly colored and served with eggs dyed a vibrant red color. This contrast in color is not only aesthetically dramatic, but it represents the blood of Christ associated with his resurrection. The moist bread is topped with candied fruits, or more often nuts, as a final savory touch.

GREEK TSOUREKI

Unlike some of the other dishes mentioned, Italian casatiello napoletano is a hardy, savory dish that is both filling and satisfying when paired with all of the other sweets eaten on Easter. The rich, buttery bread is stuffed with various cheeses and salami, and whole eggs are stuffed into holes along the top. Typically only served on Easter Sunday, its creation dates back to the 1600s and carries heavy spiritual symbolism. The dough rising represents regrowth, the eggs rebirth, and the round shape of the bread symbolizes a crown. The bread is even topped with small dough crosses!

POLISH BABKA

c olo r c ha n g i n g c ock t a i l s

TH E SCI E N C E BE H I ND TH E GLAS S b y K rist e n Yi To many, color-changing cocktails seen at trendy bars today are both a mysterious and magical sight. In the blink of an eye, a once pale purple martini somehow transforms into a dark purple, then to a vivid pink hue. Like something out of a Harry Potter potions class, these alcoholic drinks have come to captivate the attention of hip bar-goers across the country with their spell-binding, swirling shades of color. But to those with a little bit of knowledge in food chemistry, these colorful spirited spectacles are actually just a simple science experiment in a glass. By breaking down a recipe inspired by the Public Belt in New Orleans, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take a closer look at the science behind the swirling shades of these color-changing drinks:

2 oz. Gin + 3/4 oz. ginger syrup

Creating the base of the drink, the gin and ginger syrup form a low-acidity foundation for the rest of the martini to be built upon. In addition to providing the alcoholic punch to the drink, the gin builds off of the ginger syrup to create a complex, slightly sweet yet spiced flavor profile. Lending the martini the perfect balance of flavor and acidity, the currently colorless gin and ginger base acts with the following ingredient in the recipe to paint a pleasantly pastel purple palette to the cocktail.

1 oz. butterfly pea flower tea

(or 1 dropper of butterfly pea flower extract) The star of this color-changing martini, the butterfly pea flower plays an essential role in transforming the clear base foundation of gin and ginger syrup into a colorful masterpiece. The flower’s pigment ranges from light purple to lightning pink, depending on the acidity of its surroundings (a.k.a. the rest of the cocktail ingredients). This is due to the flower’s chemical color compounds called “anthocynanins,” which vary in hue with acidity level: under less acidic or “basic” conditions, anthocynanins are known to be blue-violet in color, while under more acidic conditions they are redder in hue. Based on these scientific principles, the martini initially appears purple in tone due to the more basic gin and ginger syrup. Only upon the addition of the next ingredient in the recipe do the colors in the cocktail begin to fade to a floral pink.

3/4 oz. fresh lime juice

Tart, lip-puckering, and sour, the lime juice brings a refreshing acidic note to the cocktail that cuts through the alcohol and sweetness of the gin and ginger base. With the much-needed acid coming in the form of citric acid, the freshly squeezed lime juice greatly increases the drink’s acidity level. Following this drop in pH, the anthocyanins from the butterfly pea flower become redder in color, instantaneously transforming the martini’s color from pale purple to a piercing, pale pink.

Visiting your local Indian store is akin to a torrid but toxic love affair. It’s an intense experience, masquerading as an enticing option, until your fascination with it eventually fades. You realize that it’s not exactly good for your wellbeing (the food being sold is so unhealthy yet tempting, everything is covered in a fine layer of dust from the motherland, the floor is going chip-chip), and yet it maintains a single redeeming quality to keep you wrapped around its finger. As an Indian-American, with a high affinity for the food of my roots, I have spent my formative years navigating through the dusty aisles of Indian stores. Surrounded by the gleaming stacks of Parle-G biscuits and fluorescent packets of Haldiram’s latest artery-clogging snacks is the mithai counter, where one can find a sweet dish in every opalescent color imaginable. From the milky whiteness of kaju barfi, to the candy rosiness of chum-chum, to the iridescent pinky-orange of jalebi, Indian desserts are my vice. Ordering a custom-made mithai box is a practice I have perfected through the years, one that is a source of great comfort, familiarity, and fond memories. Here I will share with you, reader, the intimate process of crafting an ideal mithai box. Let us begin with the sunset-hued jalebi: thin, crispy, fried discs of flour, soaked in a rosewaterinfused sugar syrup and swirled into tightly wound spirals. Their cloying sweetness is matched by their vibrancy and texture, overwhelmingly sticky and satisfyingly crunchy. The jalebi is how I pay homage to my parents’ home state of Punjab, an expanse of agricultural land in Northern Indian molded by five famous rivers (in Punjabi, punj means five, ab

mithai memories 18

means river); it is home to the Sikh community, whose members are guided and united by both principles of faith and brightly-colored turbans. It is along Punjab’s lively canals that jalebi is sold, piping hot and dripping with syrup, as it is made in front of you in street-stands. I have stood many times watching the dough stream and twist into the fryer, waiting impatiently for it to turn its brilliant orange shade, a color reminiscent of the state and the vivid hues worn by Punjabis, representative of their confidence and pride in such a land. We will then ask for a chum-chum, the Bengali sweet that looks like it has been plucked out of a fairy tale. With its pearly pink shade, chum-chum has always captivated me. Its jewel-like appearance masks an intricate elliptical milk dessert filled with dried fruit and nuts, drizzled in a cream syrup, and rolled in coconut shavings. Chum-chum serves as a reminder of the immense variety in the colors of Indian food. It is as dazzling as Holi itself; the fiery flashes of intense hues thrown during the Festival of Colors mirror the shades Indian people prefer to see in all aspects of their lives, from spicy dishes, to satiny clothing, to masala films, to bubblegum pink confections. Next, my mom would request that I include a milk cake for her. Since she was a child, the rich milk-based fudge, caramelized to a soft golden luster with streaks of starburst yellow citrus for tanginess, has been her favorite. I often like to imagine her as a teenager. She must have sat on the sunlit veranda, long hair plaited back, curly tendrils escaping, sharing milk cake among friends. She must have stood amongst acres of sugarcane and wheat, in a cotton salwar kameez to battle the heat, dupatta fluttering in

the wind. She must have ran to the basketball courts to play with her classmates for hours, schoolbooks and bag tossed to the side, until her mother came running too, chappal in hand. And when the scolding was over, milk cake was present again, given in apology and in love. I wish I knew her then, heard her thoughts and her jokes and her dreams. Though I can’t turn back time, milk cakes are the closest things I have to understanding her teenage self. Next, we ought to order some kulfi, or traditional Indian ice cream, in order to commemorate just how uniquely delicious Indian food can be. Using full fat milk, turned satiny after hours of boiling, this dessert is not whipped like Western ice cream; rather, it is dense and creamy, similar to a frozen custard. It can be found in myriad flavors and shades: alabaster-white malai (cream), melon-pink rose, honey-yellow mango, goldenrod saffron, and seafoam-green pistachio. Eating kulfi is always a delightful experience but having it in India is something else: due to its high density, kulfi takes a significantly longer time to melt than Western ice cream, which is immensely convenient when it is sweltering in the summer and one is in desperate need of a cool treat. My best memories of eating kulfi in India are those I share with my grandfather. Together, we would ride his motorcycle to the best outdoor kulfi shop in Ludhiana, where the dessert came in cone-shapes on sticks – he would buy pistachio, I would get strawberry, – and then we would drive around the city, racing up and down the canals and blazing past the rivers. It is the best way to cool down, especially if one is sweating in the humid summers of India.

Lastly, we must include a few pieces of kaju barfi. This is a recent addition to my mithai box as I had never been much of a fan of this dessert, thinking it to be too bland. However, in the weeks before February Break, during which I was fortunate enough to have my parents visit me from California, I had a sudden craving for it. I asked my parents to bring it for me, knowing there were limited options for quality Indian sweets in Ithaca, and they delivered, greeting me under the Balch arch with a massive box teeming with the diamond-shaped sweets. I enlisted the assistance of my two close Indian friends to aid me in demolishing it. They were missing their parents after meeting mine, so we made a small pot of chai and sat together outside in the sunshine, sipping and eating barfi and talking about our parents and our heritage. It was an incredible moment of bonding for us all, and I learned much about the diversity of India – between a conversation with just three Indian people, all of us were of different religions, spoke different languages, and came from different states in India. Now, I choose to add it to my box as it is a reminder of good times with friends and of the remarkable array of distinct backgrounds in India. And with that, our journey to craft the perfect mithai box is complete. Be sure to make your own memories and collect your own influences, reader, so that the next time you are in an Indian store, before the enchantment wears off and disillusionment sets in (seriously – why are all the handles sticky?), you have chosen a box of sweets that is unique and special to only you, teeming with pastel-colored Indian desserts, heritage, and nostalgia.

by Rabani Singh

mithai box:

a box of sweets teeming with

pastel-colored indian desserts, heritage, nostalgia 19

marvelous meringue

RECIPES BY RACHEL ALLISON

What do fluffy buttercream, delicate French macarons, and chewy marshmallows all have in common? They are all meringue-based! Meringue, a stabilized foam of egg whites whipped to varying degrees of firmness, is used to contribute structural stability and textural lightness to a wide range of sweet and savory treats. Simple to make and requiring a bare minimum of ingredients and equipment, meringues can be quick yet impressive. However, there are few essential rules for working with them that will help you achieve the best possible results. 1 No oil allowed - Keep your egg whites and cooking utensils scrupulously clean as any trace of fat (including egg yolk) will deter meringue formation. Consider wiping out the bowl with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar before getting started. 2 Room temperature is the best temperature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The proteins in eggs whites form the structure of meringue and are more tightly coiled when cold. Bringing your egg whites to room temperature for whipping will help you maximize your volume. 3 Stability is key â&#x20AC;&#x201C; You may notice that some recipes add a splash of lemon juice or a pinch of cream of tartar (potassium hydrogen tartrate) to a meringue. A little bit of acid helps to stabilize the foam, keeping it flexible enough to endure manipulations like folding into batter.

meringue kisses

These can be eaten on their own, sandwiched together with a little melted chocolate, or used as decorations for a cake or plated dessert. They can be tinted with natural or artificial coloring to give an array of dreamy pastel shades.

I NGR ED I EN T S 100 g egg white (about 3 large) 150 g granulated white sugar (3/4 cup) ¼ tsp cream of tartar ½ tsp vanilla extract (optional) pinch of salt

I NS TR U CT I ONS 1 Preheat your oven to 215°F. 2 Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. 3 With a clean metal or glass bowl, whisk the egg whites with a whisk attachment on medium-low. 4 Add in the cream of tartar, vanilla, and salt, if using. 5 Increase speed to medium and start adding sugar. Classic wisdom states that you should continue to add the sugar a little at a time as the foam thickens. The sugar has time to dissolve and become incorporated properly into the meringue, preventing gritty texture. 6 When the sugar has all been added, increase the speed to medium-high until glossy, firm peaks form. Check by pulling whisk straight out of bowl to see if the tip of the peak folds back onto itself. 7 Add gel food coloring, if using. Mix in a tiny bit (dip the end of a toothpick) of gel food coloring or other extracts and beat in until the whites hold stiff peaks. A little goes a long way. 8 Fit a piping bag with a plain tip for a classic “kiss” or a star (I like Wilton 1M or 6B). Fill piping bag with meringue, layering colors along the sides of the bag for a marbled effect. Pipe meringue kisses onto the parchment leaving ½” between pieces. Star tips are also great for piping ornate discs or nests that can be used as an edible vessel or pavlova base. 9 Bake for 60 – 90 min, until the meringues are completely dry.

swiss meringue buttercream

The gold standard of flavor and durability for many bakers, Swiss meringue buttercream (SMB) is neither as sweet or as heavy on the palate as American buttercream. It doesn’t crust but does set in the fridge with a slight shine and is capable of producing sleek, clean-edged cakes. It blends beautifully and is my go-to for creating a watercolor effect on cakes. Use it to decorate your favorite cake or cupcake recipes! This SMB is adapted from Sweetapolita.

I NGR E D I ENTS 150 g egg whites (about 5 large eggs) 250 g white granulated sugar (1 ¼ cups) 340 g unsalted butter, softened (1 ½ cups)

I N S TR UCT I ONS 1 Wipe out a large metal bowl with a little splash of lemon juice or vinegar. Add egg whites and sugar, whisking together until just combined. 2 Place bowl over a pot of simmering water, creating a double boiler to heat the egg mixture. Using a candy thermometer, heat the eggs and sugar, stirring regularly, until the mixture reaches ~160°F. Note: Keeping your egg whites at or above 140°F for 3 minutes will pasteurize them, so this is an option for those with immune or digestive concerns. 3 Remove the egg mixture from the heat, and whip on high using a whisk attachment until thick glossy peaks are formed. Allow the mixture to cool completely before adding the softened butter. Check this by checking if the bowl is cool to the touch. 4 Switch to a paddle attachment for a creamier texture or keep the whisk for a fluffier texture. 5 Add butter all at once and mix on medium until the mixture comes together in the desired texture. It will look soupy and weird before it turns into the perfect buttercream! Color: Ivory Vanilla Buttercream: Stir in 1 Tbsp of pure vanilla extract in at the end. Color: Spring Green Matcha White Chocolate Buttercream: Make a matcha white chocolate ganache by combining 1 tsp of sifted matcha powder with 1 Tbsp of simmering hot cream, stirring and pressing out lumps until completely smooth. Add this paste to 100 g chopped white chocolate, with 35 g simmering cream, stirring together until smooth. Chill to room temperature them beat the ganache into the SMB. Color: Blush Pink Raspberry Rose Buttercream: Stir in 1/3 cup seedless raspberry preserves and 1/4 – 1/2 tsp rosewater to the SMB at the end. 23

lavender milk chocolate mousse

Decadent chocolate mousse is lightened with whipped egg whites and given a whimsical aroma quality with an infusion of lavender. Dress it up with crumbled meringue kisses and freeze-dried raspberries. This mousse recipe is adapted from Ricardo Cuisine.

I NGR E D I ENTS 170 g (6 oz) milk chocolate, chopped finely 2 Tbsp unsalted butter Âž cup heavy whipping cream 1 tsp dried lavender buds 2 eggs, separated 3 Tbsp sugar

I N S TR U CT I ONS 1 Lightly heat the cream and add the lavender. Allow to infuse for 20-30 min. Strain out lavender. 2 In a large bowl, melt the chocolate with the butter and 2 Tbsp of cream. Let cool. 3 In another bowl, make a meringue: beat the egg whites and sugar with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. 4 In another bowl, whip the remaining cream until semi-firm peaks form. 5 Beat egg yolks in a small bowl, straining out the chalazae (i.e. the ropey white pieces around the egg yolk) if you wish. Add the egg yolks to the cooled chocolate mixture and combine with a whisk until fully incorporated. 6 With a spatula, gently fold in the egg whites, then the cream. 7 Divide mixture evenly into ramekins (4-6), cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

-Coloring your p(a)late

a beginner guide to

“Eating the Rainbow ” by Cathy Zhang

Okay, let’s admit it—we can’t actually eat a rainbow. As it is formed by intangible sunlight refractions, it is sadly impossible to eat. However, we can definitely make our meals rainbow-like by using colorful ingredients. The rainbow food trend has dominated in 2016, 2017, and is now steadily marching into 2018. Fast casual chains like Sweetgreen, Cafe Gratitude, Chopped Salads, etc. are popping everywhere, and that’s just to name a few. Not only do these rainbow bowls look aesthetically pleasing (check #smoothiebowl and #buddhabowl on Instagram), they taste wonderful as well. Eating an array of colorful foods is an easy way to nourish yourself with the essential needs, and you’ll feel great inside out!

With the USDA promoting the idea of “5 cups of fruits and vegetables a day,” it may not be surprising that the plant-forward movement has been sweeping across the food and beverage industry and onto our daily plates. As a loyal participant in Cornell Dining’s “5 Cups a Day” challenge back in freshman year, I’ve come to the conclusion that forcing five entire cups of different fruits and vegetables is quite difficult, especially when it comes to finding a variety of colorful foods that fit into the ROYGBIV color wheel. Most of the time, I tend to include one to three different colors in a bowl (think an arugula salad with apple slices and some dried cranberries) and get too lazy to include more colors. While most of us strive to eat as healthy as possible, we often find ourselves with a rather empty fridge every few weeks and have to rely on frozen dinners and dried foods to fill us up quickly. In some drastic cases, we may even pay $10+ for a salad bowl that really costs less than half of the price if we were to make it at home. After some careful research, I’ve come up with a basic formula for both sweet and savory ways you can rainbow-fy your palate that will surely brighten your day! 25

-Nutrient breakdown of “the rainbow”

- red flavonoids and carotenoids, which are antioxidants that help with heart health and destroy free radicals that may lead to certain cancer types - orange B-carotene, Vitamin C, and Vitamin A, which help improve your eyesight and immune function and lead to healthy, glowing skin - yellow zeaxanthin (a type of carotenoid), which helps boost immunity and enhance skin - green flavonoids and lutein, which help support eye and brain health; also rich in iron and fiber - blue,indigo,violet anthocyanins (antioxidants), which help reduce oxidative stress of aging and heart disease biomarkers (blood pressure, etc.)

Sweet Bowls

Acai bowls have been around for a while, but due to their high demand, their prices aren’t usually cheap. While I do recommend Trader Joe’s Unsweetened Organic Acai Puree Packets ($4.49 everyday!), other fruits are much fresher, cheaper, and easier to find. By picking fruits that are more available in different seasons, you’d be surprised at how much your homemade sweet bowls cost compared to the ones sold at smoothie stores.

Savory Bowls The Basic Formula

½ bowl - greens, vegetables of 1-2 other colors ¼ bowl - protein of some kind meat, soy, lentils ¼ bowl - complex carb 1-2 servings of poly or monounsaturated fat - ex. ¼ of an avocado or 1 tbsp of oil

The Basic Formula 1 cup frozen fruit of your choice + 1 frozen or fresh banana ½ cup of veggies or greens - spinach, kale, avocado, etc. ½ cup of liquid of your choice - water, orange juice, dairy, etc. 2 tbsp of protein add-ons - nut butters, oats, chia seeds, etc. Sweetener as desired Toppings as desired - shredded coconut, chocolate chips, almonds, and fresh fruit! Other common sweet bowls include oat porridge, yogurt parfaits, and chia pudding, but whatever you believe fits can also work perfectly well. The basic formula may seem slightly overwhelming at first, but a tip for saving time is to invest in some freezer bags and freeze everything (besides toppings and liquid) together before mixing all ingredients. This is a basic formula for a buddha bowl, which is an all-time favorite of yogis and health bloggers. Based on a principle of balanced and colorful eating, the bowl is meant to help you become one with the universe and bring you into a state of bliss, like the “bliss” I felt when I snapped a photo of my Sweetgreen bowl for the snaps before digging in. We’re not sure exactly if this is what Buddha actually eats or if it has any relationship with Buddha at all, but it is definitely an easy way to get your 5 cups of rainbow in one meal. While the ingredients may seem to take a while to prepare, prepping a large portion of each ingredient all at once will help with a quick assembly. For example, I can roast my sweet potatoes in one row of the oven, and chicken on another to fully utilize the space (and to save time, of course). Ultimately, the components are up to you to decide, just like Buddha suggests finding your zen in your own way.

by Lily Zhong

A FLORAL APETITE

The use of flowers, especially the extract of flowers, has been a common practice in our kitchens throughout the years. Historically, we’ve been drinking infused water and tea laced with the essence of floral edibles;

BUT WHAT ABOUT EATING WHOLE FLOWERS? Take Hwajeon (flower cake) as our first example. This celebratory and festival sweet dish originates from Korea. The dessert is a simple pan-fried rice cake, but it relies on both the entire flower and petals to bring color and floral notes to the dish. The white rice cake serves as the background and main body of the dessert with the importance of the flower lying in the dish’s floral dressing with a pastel wash and light floral scented aroma. Typical seasonal flowers used include the rhododendron and cherry blossom. We then move to France, where we learn that pastry chefs also value edible flowers, specifically candied violets, as a major staple. A jar of candied violets is essential for the top French pastry chefs across the world. They use the delicate flower to bring color and sophistication to the petit fours and bonbon au chocolat at top patisseries. Violets are pressed, lightly washed with egg white, dusted with sugar, set in a refrigerator, and then stored at room temperature. And of course, we cannot forget about the rising prominence of pink petals and purple pansies strewn across our dining plates for aesthetics. In the plating of dishes, floral accents can bring greater color and depth to the way a dish captures the eye. But the use of edible flowers also avoids the use of artificial flavoring in favor of natural taste, so what we feel on the palette is only further intensified. From brunch food to late dinners, from Sydney to New York City, the trend in eating wild

seasonal flowers is abundant everywhere we look. We see them paired with avocado, sprinkled across our French toast, and used to embellish succulent red meats and fish across the world. In terms of using flowers for infusion purposes, rose water and orange blossom water is extremely important in Middle Eastern cuisine. In Morocco, combining rose water with saffron and cinnamon spices to cook meats is common practice; the floral addition acts as a unique primary base to the meats. Orange blossom water, on the other hand, is usually combined with sweet foods centered on almonds, such as almond briouats (pan fried Moroccan cookies), ktefa (layers of crispy pastry with fried almonds and orange blossom scented crème anglaise), and almond milkshakes which is popular during Ramadan. Finally, to bring our journey of edible flowers back to its roots, their most traditional use has been tea. The most popular flowers for tea have always fallen upon jasmine, rose, and chrysanthemum, and its use is still extremely prevalent in East Asia. Its mass consumption has been accredited to the beautiful blend it brings in the tea, with its distinctly calming floral tastes and soothing coloring. The use of such tea is linked to medicinal purposes (helping to reduce the effects of sore throats and fevers) in traditional alternative medicine. Perhaps next time we see edible flowers served to us on a plate, we shouldn’t hesitate to just take a little bite out of it too. 27

recipes by Ethyn Leong

Roasted Roasted Salmon Salmon & & Rainbow Rainbow Vegetables Vegetables Ingredients

1 salmon fillet, skin removed, cut into 2”x2” squares 6 Tbsp butter 2 yellow bell peppers, seeded and quartered 1 bunch rainbow carrots (white, orange, purple, yellow), peeled and cut irregularly 1 bunch radish, quartered 4 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp curry powder 1 cup heavy cream Black pepper Salt

Directions Salmon

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. Place salmon in tinfoil, sprinkle salt and pepper on each side, and wrap. 3. Roast for 10 minutes. 4. Remove from oven, and unwrap. 5. Heat 2 Tbsp butter in a frying pan over high heat. 6. Brown the sides of each salmon piece.

Bell Pepper & White Carrot

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. Line a baking sheet with tin foil, and spread bell peppers and white carrots. 3. Drizzle with 2 Tbsp olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 4. Roast for 40 minutes. 5. Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes. 6. *Vegetables should be separated for remaining steps 7. Place vegetable in a food processor with ½ cup heavy cream. 8. Add curry powder to the white carrots. 9. Blend until pureed, and adjust taste with salt and pepper.

Radish & Orange, Purple, Yellow Carrot Vegetables should be separated for all steps 1. Melt 1Tbsp butter and Â˝ Tbsp olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. 2. Add vegetable and cook for 2 minutes, rarely stirring. 3. Fill saucepan with hot water until vegetables are covered, and add 1tsp salt and 1 Tbsp pepper. 4. Increase heat to high, then reduce to low and cover once boiling starts. Simmer for 20 minutes. 5. Strain vegetables and set aside.

Assembly

1. Artfully swipe the pepper puree onto a serving plate being careful to follow the curve of the plate. 2. Arrange salmon squares on one half of the plate. 3. Make a quenelle of carrot puree using 2 tablespoons, and place near salmon. 4. Arrange remaining vegetables on the other side of the plate as you see fit. 5. Impress everyone with your plating skills.

Colorful Colorful Cubed Cubed Gels Gels

Ingredients

Flavored liquid (juice, tea, syrup, etc.) Gelatin Food Grade Agar

Directions

*Method depends on main flavor liquid of gel

Cold liquid (juice, milk, etc.)

1. In a saucepan, bring 1 cup of water to a boil over high heat. 2. Add 1 Tbsp gelatin and 2 Tbsp agar. Whisk until dissolved. - Gel can be made more brittle by adding extra agar, or more flexible by adding extra gelatin. 3. Reduce heat to low, and whisk in up to 4 cups of flavoring liquid. 4. Pour into a greased container, and refrigerate for 2 hours. 5. Remove from container and cut into cubes.

Brewed Liquid (tea, coffee, etc.)

1. In a saucepan, bring 1 cup of water to a boil over high heat. 2. Add 1 Tbsp gelatin and 2 Tbsp agar, and whisk until dissolved. - Gel can be made more brittle by adding extra agar, or more flexible by adding extra gelatin. 3. Reduce heat to low, and add dried drink of choice. - Coffee grounds, tea leaves, etc. 4. Strain liquid into a greased container, and refrigerate for 2 hours. 5. Remove from container and cut into cubes.

by Rachel Allison

drink local?

think pink!

Rosé wines have been experiencing something of a renaissance. Different from the cloyingly sweet styles of past American infamy, rosés now show a more elegant aromatic character. With crisp acidity and fresh fruit forwardness, these wines today are approachable even to novice wine drinkers. With its cool climate, the Finger Lakes is a prime example of wineries responding to consumer demands with top quality rosé wines. Recently I spoke with Greg Dlubac, Cornell alum and vineyard assistant at Sheldrake Point Winery, to hear his views on the rosé revival. “I think there's definitely a renewed interest in rosé, especially as its production has leaned drier. I think it's versatileness is becoming realized, it's much more than a summer sipping wine. I find it to be a useful tool, both enologically and viticulturally, giving another category of product, and outlet for the fruit.” Rosé can be made in several ways, but the most common is using red wine grapes while limiting the skin contact time, thus limiting the extraction of color compounds from the skins. The result is a pink-tinted wine with some of the aroma characteristics of a red wine but with more of the feel of a white wine. Around the Finger Lakes, rosé is commonly made with Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir, both varietals of Vitis vinifera.

“With crisp acidity & fresh fruit forwardness forwardness, these wines today are approachable even to novice wine drinkers.” “We're seeing a lot of different styles of rosé being produced with different methods. There's some very nice dry rosés from Pinot Noir produced via the saignée method (thereby allowing concentration of red wine production), but I think that Sheldrake has done a great job at carving out its niche of producing dry rosé from Cab Franc and has been able to show consistency in its production.” The options are myriad, reflecting the style diversity from dry to sweet, and including both traditional V.vinifera and North American native V. labrusca grapes. But what really goes into making a Finger Lakes rosé? Under the vineyard manager Dave Wiemann, Sheldrake brings in the fruit to around 21° Brix to ensure the perfect amount of sugar conversion into alcohol. They then ferment the juice to 0.5% residual sugar before chilling to stop the fermentation. The head winemaker Dave Breeden aims for a signature “light effervescence on the palate at bottling, which gives it a nice finish.” Ripeness is always a challenge for cool climate wine regions like the Finger Lakes. According to Greg Dlubac, their solution to combat the colder months includes limiting harvest to only fully ripened grapes and producing various wine styles and winemaking methods. “One thing that we do to encourage fruit to fully ripen is to go through shortly after veraison to drop green and pink clusters. Sheldrake also produces a Cab Franc Ice wine, and this year we have been experimenting with an appassimento style Cab Franc, where we left the fruit on the vine to dehydrate before picking.”

The first Finger Lakes rosé I ever tried was the 2015 Sheldrake Point, a wonderful balance of tart berry, pears, and fruit punch, with a super smooth finish. Like wine making regions around the world, the Finger Lakes region depends on ideal weather throughout the year for best quality vintages. “To me, 2015 was a wonderful vintage for Sheldrake rosé. I find 2017 to be similar to it, and it's showing quite nicely right now! In early January, half of the 2017 vintage was bottled, and the rest will be bottled [next week] for an expected total of 2576 cases for the 2017 vintage.” Sipping the 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé in the tasting room at Kemmeter, just off Seneca Lake, the clean fresh strawberry, white raspberry, and wet stone nose is purely delightful. And more than once, I’ve enjoyed the summer weather and the picturesque prospect of the lake from the porch at Atwater Vineyards, home of another lovely Cabernet Franc rosé. The list of these local rosé experiences goes on, and it’s not just limited to wine– rosé is now being used at local bars too in cocktails and sangria. “…consumers are catching on to FLX rosés, realizing that they are not being produced in a sweeter style that I feel like dominated the market here 10 years ago. As such I'm more often finding rosés sold out in tasting rooms by mid-summer.” Not only are Finger Lakes wines impressive in their sensory aspects, but they also leave consumers with the satisfaction of drinking local and supporting the Finger Lakes’ growing wine presence. And luckily for us, we continue to see these winemakers meeting the challenge of redefining rosé. With all these local possibilities, I’ll bet we’ll be picking up our favorite Finger Lakes rosés before summer even begins). 31

easiest frosé ever. Frozen rosé, or frosé, is the easy drink you didn’t know you need in your life. As we look forward to warmer days, think of breaking out this gorgeously hued refresher. This recipe uses a shortcut a pint of store-bought raspberry sorbet instead of making a fruit puree or syrup. Raspberry or strawberry sorbet will accentuate the wine’s bright red fruit character and the sweetness will balance the wine’s natural acidity.

ingredients 1 pint raspberry sorbet, softened (or strawberry) 500 mL rosé wine, partially frozen in ice cubes Splash of fresh lemon juice (optional)

instructions 1

Freeze the rosé in ice cube trays, or similar. It will not freeze completely due to the ethanol, but half frozen should be fine. If you want to just use chilled rosé, the slushy will be thinner.

Combine the sorbet, rosé ice, and lemon juice in a blender and blend until smooth slushy texture is achieved. You can adjust the consistency by adding more rosé.

Serve immediately, in champagne coupes for optimal aesthetic effect.

str awberry Arts & Sciences Classic and trusty Most popular flavor Appeals to everyone

MINT c h o c o lat e chip CALS/HUMEC Fresh Into all natural Has a darker side

K a h lu a Fu dge AAP Intense Hard to find Elevated expression of chocolate

Man go sorbet

“S.C. Johnson” Smooth talker Sophisticated & ambitious Vacations in the tropics

wh i c h fla v o r o f i ce c r eam a r e yo u ?

B av a r i a n R as p b e r ry F u dg e ILR Wordy International & intellectual “I Love Raspberry”

concept by Trang Dau

E z r a’ s M or n i n g Cup Engineering Lightly roasted Always on the (coffee) grind Bitter but sweet

pastel edition

crème DE CORNELL