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Preface
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Welcome to a special edition on watches, jewellery and lifestyle accessories. Crème de la Crème, Oman’s exclusive luxury lifestyle magazine, brings you BASELWORLD 2011 that features some of the most coveted brands and designs showcased at the glittering watch and jewellery fair held in Basel, Switzerland. A world of technical prowess, ingenuity, artistry, sparkle and sheer beauty awaits…
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ABDULLAH AL TAIE
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER AUSTIN D’SILVA
EDITORIAL Editor ANNE KURIAN
DESIGN & PRODUCTION Art & Design NEIL VICENTE CASTILLO
Features Writer SUDIPTA DASGUPTA
Senior Designer SEBASTINE SILUVAI
Contributor ABIGAIL LOBO
Web Design SHERWIN .D
PUBLISHER AL ROYA PRESS & PUBLISHING (SAOC) HEAD - SALES & MARKETING BEATRIZ PEREIRA ADVERTISING Oman KALPANA D’SILVA NAVEED SHARIF
PHOTOGRAPHER ELVIS FERRAO DISCLAIMER All rights reserved. No part of baselworld 2011 or any part of the contents there of may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. The publishers regret they cannot accept liability for errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused.
The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers.
PLEASE RECYCLE THIS BOOK AFTER YOU HAVE ENJOYED READING IT
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www.cremedelacremearabia.com/baselworld2011
06 - REPORT – All about BASELWORLD 2011 10 - OVERVIEW – First impressions from the luxurious watch and jewellery fair Watches 14 - Rolex 18 - Patek Philippe 22 - Chopard 28 - Tudor 32 - Perrelet 36 - Breitling 39 - Fortis 40 - Longines 44 - Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd. 46 - Hublot 50 - Breguet 54 - Eberhard & Co. 58 - Oris 62 - Rado 64 - Bell&Ross 66 - Charriol 68 - Swarovski 74 - Raymond Weil 78 - Omega Jewellery 82 - Chopard 86 - Mikimoto 88 - Charriol 89 - Carrera Y Carrera Lifestyle Accessories 92 - Vertu 96 - Caran d’Ache 98 - Montegrappa 7
C E L E BR AT I NG BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Celebrating horology and luxury Federal Councillor Didier Burkhalter (left) with Thierry Stern, Pesident, Patek Philippe
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year more successful than the past couple, BASELWORLD 2011 brought back much of the sheen and glory that the luxury watch and jewellery fair had lost due to the global crisis in the last couple of years. With increased number of visitors and impressive sales, the 39th edition of the luxury fair proved to be a huge success BASELWORLD 2011 was a clincher event for the watch and jewellery world. The eight-day Watch and Jewellery Show had 103,200 visitors, 2.5 per cent increased from the count in 2010 and raked in outstanding sales. The innovations and trends presented underlined BASELWORLD’s key global position as the leading show for the watch and jewellery industry. At the 39th BASELWORLD Watch and Jewellery Show, a total of 1892 watch and jewellery producers and representatives of the supplier industry, from no fewer than 45 nations, showcased their exclusive world innovations and sophisticated collections in Basel over the eight days. An experience to note The influx of visitors has to be described as overwhelming this year: 103,200 visitors from more than 100 countries marked the second-best result of all times for BASELWORLD and an increase of 2.5% over the previous year. The exhibitors reported that the quality of the visitors was excellent.
This year’s exhibiting companies declared themselves to be highly satisfied with the business they conducted and the sales they achieved. Jacques J. Duchêne, President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, commented as follows at the end of the show: “We can speak of an excellent year. We, as exhibitors, are very satisfied and have achieved highly gratifying sales. The expectations for this year’s BASELWORLD were exceptionally high – precisely after two particularly positive months at the start of the year. And they were certainly fulfilled. Given the current global political developments, however, we will be treating this pleasing and optimistic result with caution.” François Thiébaud, President of the Swiss exhibitors at BASELWORLD, confirms: “This was an excellent show for us. We achieved splendid sales, and we feel a great sense of satisfaction. BASELWORLD’s global reach has played a key role in this over the past few days.” Jérôme Pernici, Marketing Director at Patek Philippe, says: “We were able to work particularly well here: it was an excellent year. We achieved record figures in terms of both buyer and media contacts.” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, underlines the importance of the event: “BASELWORLD is the sole international show for the watch and jewellery industry that our company participates in. It is, and will remain, a focal point of every financial year for us and makes a key contribution to our sales result. We are highly satisfied with the sales we achieved and the customer frequency.”
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For Françoise Bezzola, Vice President Communication at TAG Heuer, the show was a great success: “Our stand was frequented by excellent numbers of both specialist dealers and journalists. We have recorded two-figure growth rates by comparison to last year.” “BASELWORLD is an exceptional event that cannot be missed. 2011 was a fantastic show for us, an excellent year, and our innovations were particularly appreciated by both our customers and the media”, reports Olivier Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil. Nicolas Beau, Directeur International Horlogerie at Chanel, sums up the show as follows: “Here we can demonstrate Chanel’s creativity and strengths in watchmaking. BASELWORLD 2011 will go down as the most successful show in history for us – in terms of both sales and media contacts.” “The course of business was highly gratifying”, says JeanClaude Biver, CEO of Hublot SA. “This show continues to be of major importance”. Intensive use is made of the options offered by the unique nature of the World Watch and Jewellery Show. Manon Colombies, Export Manager of Festina Candino SA, says on this: “BASELWORLD is our most important sales point anywhere in the world. The fact that we can maintain and foster our network of contacts is one of the biggest advantages of this show. And we naturally appreciate the professional setting in which the show is held.” Shining through As far as the jewellery exhibitors are concerned, Christoph Wellendorff, Managing Director of Wellendorff, is 10 10
particularly satisfied: “BASELWORLD 2011 was exceptionally successful for us: our very high expectations were even exceeded. Here in Basel we have been able to meet more than 90% of our customers in just a single week. BASELWORLD is unrivalled and the only jewellery show that we attend, and our participation in Basel will continue to be a very good investment for our brand.” The expectations of Giuseppe Picchiotti, owner of Picchiotti, were similarly fulfilled. “Last year was already very successful for our company. And we have now been able to establish ourselves at this high level. BASELWORLD 2011 has opened up new options and opportunities for us in the Southeast Asian market in particular “. The brand Meissen Joaillerie participated in BASELWORLD for the first time. For Managing Director, Christian Kurtzke, it is quite clear: “BASELWORLD offers us the best platform for opening up the markets of the future, such as Latin America. We have been able to engage in outstanding talks and are particularly impressed by the media presence here.” Large numbers of positive echoes were also to be heard in the remaining sectors of BASELWORLD on the closing day of the show. Hence Bernd-Willi Ripp, Managing Director of Groh+Ripp, had the following to say: “For the world’s leading dealers in precious stones, BASELWORLD constitutes the most important show of the year. After achieving a good result in 2010, we were able to record very good sales here in Basel in 2011.” Source: BASELWORLD 2011 Press Centre
C E L E BR AT I NG BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
A vibrant year
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ASELWORLD 2011 proved to be one of the best years for exhibitors and visitors with increased sales, fascinating novelties and renewed vigour. Anne Kurian writes on the trends and news showcased at the international watches and jewellery show Stylish, clean yet understated. That seems to be the thumb rule incorporated by many watchmakers who showcased a staggering range of timepieces at one of the most world’s most luxurious watch and jewellery fairs to be held annually at Basel, Switzerland. Every watch manufacturer present at BASELWORLD 2011 showcased fantastic novelties; many which even trade specialists say are a clear demarcation from what was show earlier. Many manufacturers stuck to clean, elegant and stylishly understated designs often digging deep into their own history tomes to create models that are reminiscent of the yesteryears. Longines launched the ‘Longines Twenty Four Hours’, inspired by its orginal created in the 1950s and dubbed it the “Longines Twenty-Four Hours,” for its distinctive 24hour dial (below). Celebrating its 130 anniversary, Seiko created a limited edition version of the first Grand Seiko from 1960. The
timepiece features the new hand-winding Caliber 9S64 movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Tiffany Watch Co. LTD, though a very young player in the watches arena, unveiled the Atlas Gent Square Chronograph that not only stood out with its stylish design that would be great both at the corporate boardroom and the black-tie dinner. TAG Heuer launched the ‘Carrera Heritage’ collection, which featured the 39 mm Calibre 6 watch and the 41 mm Calibre 16 chronograph, inspired by the original Carrera chronograph launched in 1964. Among the other trends that were visible this year is the coloured metal trend. While yellow gold holds strong, so is rose gold as well as two-tone bracelets as was seen all over the show. These are but just a few instances of the master craftsmanship showcased at BASELWORLD 2011. The show, compared to last year, could safely be dubbed more vibrant this time round as well as more footfall. Madhu Jesrani, General Manager of Khimji’s Watches and a long time visitor to BASELWORLD, said, “BASELWORLD 2011 was a wonderful experience as always. This year was very good for the exhibitors and
visitors. The turnout was excellent and better than what we have seen in the last two years.” While watchmakers and dealers converged at the fair from over 45 nations, an equally staggering number of visitors from around the world visited BASELWORLD 2011 during the eight days. A couple I met on the train from Basel to Zurich had come from Saudi Arabia to visit the fair for the third year in a row. And they were not the only ones making their way to the lesser known town in Switzerland to witness what is often referred to as the most exclusive watch and jewellery fair in the world. Buyers, watch collectors and watch aficionados from all over the world set up base at Basel to experience the unrivalled extravaganza. “It is important for Khimji’s Watches to be present at BASELWORLD every year as it is one of the most important watch and jewellery fairs in the world and keeps us abreast of the latest developments, new launches and emerging trends in the luxury arena,” said Jesrani. Wajdi Jeha, General Manager of one of the leading luxury watch, jewellery and lifestyle accessories in Oman, Gallery Argan, was present at the fair. He was especially pleased to note that brand heads spend more time with their clients than before. “Usually, our meetings are hurried or short due to lack of time. But this year it was far more fruitful than earlier years. We got a lot of time to spend with the various brands
and learn a lot more about what to expect in the year ahead,” said Jeha. When asked if this was due to the cloud of the global crisis still hanging around he says, “No, that is not the reason. I feel the different brands feel they need to connect with their clients and give them more time, as it used to happen in the past. But when the crowd increased and there were more buyers, we dealers sometimes got our time cut. This year we were particularly pleased with the response we got from the various brands. And this year there were more new brands present at BASELWORLD.” The presence of more brands at the fair this year signals a positive year for the watch and jewellery industry. Khimji’s Watches were impressed with the line-up of exhibitors this year. “We have looked at new collaborations for Khimji’s Watches. One of the prestigious brands we are excited about representing in Oman in the jewellery segment is Mikimoto. The brand is a leader with a wellestablished name, and we are positive that Mikimoto will be well-received here,” said Jesrani. Even Jeha’s opinion was on similar lines. “Gallery Argan is growing at a steady pace and will soon be expanding. We are hoping to introduce some new and prestigious brands in Oman,” he said. The company is in talks with brand representatives they met at BASELWORLD in a bid to bring some of the top names to Oman. 13
R OL E X BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Luxury’s TimekeepersROLEX R
olex watches are one of the world’s finest Swiss made watches. These watches are popularly regarded as the status symbols and are often symbols of legacy. These watches are mostly preferred for their: Genuine make and the Swiss craftsmanship Use of high quality and finest raw materials Guaranteed quality
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II embodies all of the intense emotion a regatta arouses. By its impressive size, evocative power and sleek design, this unique regatta chronograph echoes directly the Maxi Yachts built to brave the oceans. The new version is the first Professional watch in the Oyster collection to be available in EVEROSE ROLESOR – an exclusive combination of the 904L steel superalloy and 18 ct EVEROSE gold. Equipped with a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is an innovative and pioneering watchmaking complication, based on interaction between the movement and the bezel.
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It allows the skipper to programme a regatta countdown sequence from 1 to 10 minutes. Once the countdown has been launched, the skipper can, if necessary, synchronize his chronograph to the official race countdown. Thanks to the Yacht-Master II, experienced sailors and yachting enthusiasts have at their disposal an efficient tool to assist in crossing the starting line at the very moment the horn sounds. The model’s 4160 movement, entirely designed and developed by Rolex, is fitted with a PARACHROM hairspring, 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. The countdown is operated by a column wheel and a vertical clutch. A number of microcomponents in this unique movement are produced by UV-LiGA – a new technology, entirely mastered in-house by Rolex, which enables the production of components whose fineness or geometry makes them impossible to manufacture by traditional means. The Yacht-Master II’s case, stamped from a block of 904L steel extremely resistant to corrosion, offers all the qualities of waterproofness that have made the reputation of Oyster watches. Not least thanks to its TRIPLOCK winding crown, which screws down tightly against the case like the hatch of a submarine. The pink gold of the bezel and the bracelet’s centre links is 18 ct EVEROSE gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Rolex and manufactured in
its own foundry. The blue CERACHROM bezel insert, virtually impervious to scratches, corrosion-resistant and non-fading, is also patented and manufactured by Rolex. Oyster Perpetual Explorer The Oyster Perpetual Explorer model was born of this very state of mind. On 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest in the course of an expedition equipped with Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches. The Explorer model was created in homage to this historic achievement – and to accompany other such achievements. Since then, Rolex has continuously tested and improved the precision, robustness and reliability of its watches in the most extreme environments on the planet. Exactly 40 years after its launch, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has been updated to reach new heights of dependability. This new model combines technical innovations and a return to aesthetic sources. Its case, enlarged to 42 mm, houses the new calibre 3187 entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The movement includes the most recently patented technologies of the brand, such as the PARAFLEX shock absorbers and the non-magnetic PARACHROM hairspring, ensuring unparalleled reliability and shock resistance. The bracelet
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developed by Rolex – made of an advanced ceramic virtually impervious to scratches, corrosion-resistant and non-fading – this new version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona exhibits state-of-the-art technology and pays homage to its legendary heritage. Its black bezel is reminiscent of that of the 1965 model. The graduations on the CERACHROM bezel, offering perfect readability, are obtained by the deposition of a fine layer of pink gold via a magnetron cathode sputtering PVD process. This high-precision chronograph certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) is driven by calibre 4130, introduced in 2000, a movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. Its revolutionary architecture, the fruit of years of research, has reduced its complexity and increased its reliability. A profusion of Rolex innovations, calibre 4130 is equipped with a PARACHROM hairspring with a Breguet overcoil. The hairspring is manufactured from a new alloy, developed and produced by Rolex, which makes it insensitive to magnetic fields and up to 10 times more resistant to shocks.
is equipped with a new OYSTERLOCK clasp with safety catch and the EASYLINK comfort extension link. On the dial, the 24-hour hand has returned to the arrow shape and the orange colour of the original 1971 model. The hour and minute hands are broader and more legible, and, on the black-dial version, their black base blends with the black dial to create a “phantom effect”. The luminescent sections of the hands seem to float over the dial – another nod to the historic model. With its extremely robust construction, its exceptional chronometric performance and its legendary reliability, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the ideal instrument to push the boundaries of the world. Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona The new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is resolutely dedicated to those who enjoy the finer things in life. Launched in 1963, the Cosmograph Daytona is closely linked to speed and automobile sport. With its new, exclusive monobloc black CERACHROM bezel
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The new model’s sophisticated aesthetics are underscored by the noble materials used in its construction: the Oyster case in 18 ct EVEROSE gold, an alloy created by Rolex; the chocolate brown or ivory= coloured dial with gold hour markers; and the comfortable strap in black alligator leather with an 18 ct EVEROSE gold folding clasp and safety catch. Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition The new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Special Edition is more sensual and more dazzling than ever. This bold incarnation of a feminine classic, in its 34 mm 18 ct EVEROSE gold case, enriches a collection already offered in yellow and white gold. Seductive charm of EVEROSE gold The 18 ct EVEROSE gold of the case, bracelet and bezel sets the tone from the outset: an exclusive Rolex alloy, captivating in its inherent lustre and nobility. A mixture of serenity and vitality, sobriety and audacity, it exerts an irresistible power of seduction and gives the watch its strong personality. Around the bezel sparkle 12 brilliant-cut diamonds, elegantly showcased in 18 ct white gold settings. The effect is luminous, exquisite, enchanting. Dazzlingly delicate, the GOLDUST DREAM dial is a subtle, refined marriage of white or black mother-of-pearl and gold dust. The mother-of-pearl is embellished with a new nature-inspired motif and an exquisite design in pink gold dust applied in a fine layer via a patented PVD process which preserves the mother-of-pearl’s natural structure while giving it a highly original metallic sheen. The slightest ray of light illuminates this magical dial with iridescent reflections that make the fine strata of the mother-of-pearl shimmer in a subtle play of light. Each of these dials, with a large gem-set numeral at 6 o’clock, is a unique, refined work of art, striking in its delicate splendour. Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust The new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in yellow or white ROLESOR exudes elegance and distinction. The gold crystals dial of the new Lady-Datejust is an exquisite homage to femininity. Obtained using an exclusive process that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, it captures the light and gleams in an extraordinary play of glistening reflections. On one particular version of this model, the Rolex JUBILÉ motif appears in a secret and mysterious filigree, a door opening onto the imaginary. Each GOLD CRYSTALS dial is a work of art in itself, as unique as the lady who wears it.
Sublime in its delicate design, the version with the ivory coloured dial with a “sunbeam” guilloche pattern enchants with its clean lines, its extreme finesse, its infinite charm. All the dials of this new interpretation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust are graced with 10 diamonds which add to the originality and the subtle radiance of the watch face. Entirely gem-set, the bezel brings yet another touch of luxury and elegance. Its 46 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle like so many invaluable treasures which, at each reading of the time, remind us of their timeless splendour. Feminine down to the last detail, an ode to charm and romanticism, t he new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust embodies absolute grace. It is nonetheless, like all Oyster watches, a waterproof chronometer equipped with a PERPETUAL rotor self-winding mechanical movement. To wear this gem of a watch is to live every moment intensely with the promise of a radiant future.
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Pat e k p h i l i p p e BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
P
atek Philippe presented an impressive collection of six new Grand Complications at BaselWorld 2011. The collection featured highly complex masterpieces of micro-mechanical ingenuity, featuring combinations of minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and/or chronographs. Patek Philippe, for the first time in the watch maker’s history has included Grand Complication wristwatches for ladies.
Wrist jewels – Ref. 5208 Triple Complication with minute repeater, chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays The new Triple Complication Ref. 5208 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with this combination of functions. It embodies formidable technical degrees of difficulty in a timepiece that will impress connoisseurs with its supreme elegance, sleek understatement, exceptional readability, and the reliability needed for everyday use. The minute repeater is exquisitely reverberant. Paired with a column-wheel chronograph that is a mere 2.4 mm thick, the perpetual calendar features large aperture displays that advance simultaneously and instantaneously every day at midnight. The highly complicated caliber R CH 27 PS QI (diameter: 32 mm, H: 10.35 mm, V: 5.7 cm3) is composed of 701 individual parts, most elaborately finished by hand. On the list of Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatches, the new Ref. 5208 ranks second, right after the Sky Moon Tourbillon. It is the first Patek Philippe Triple Complication with a chronograph and also one of the very rare highly complicated watches that are self-winding.
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Ref. 5270 Grand Complication with chronograph and perpetual calendar The Ref. 5270 is the latest interpretation of a Patek Philippe model that scripted horological history throughout the past 70 years: the classic twopusher chronograph wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. The archetypal face itself is an icon with in-line aperture displays for the day and the month at 12 o’clock as well as an analog date with a moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock. The chronograph counters, slightly shifted down from the horizontal centerline, reveal the secret of its heart: the manually wound caliber CH 29535 PS Q movement with column-wheel control and a horizontal clutch, developed and crafted entirely in-house by Patek Philippe. It took two years to design the new perpetual calendar mechanism with 182 parts and a height of merely 1.65 mm and to perfectly adapt it to the manually wound chronograph movement. The entire caliber is housed in an elegant 18K white gold case with a concave bezel and gently flared lugs. It also features the same rectangular chronograph pushers as the legendary predecessors from the 1940s and 1950s that kept fetching record prices at international auctions.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5216 Minute repeater with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, retrograde date and moon phases With its new Ref. 5216, Patek Philippe rises to a further level of sophistication in minute repeaters, launching the legendary caliber R TO 27 PS QR LU movement with the five most popular complications in a perceptibly larger case made of 18K rose gold; it encloses a more voluminous, resonant cavity to enhance the sonority of the chimes. The new watch supersedes the Ref. 5016 Grand Complication which was launched in 1993 and in the past 18 years has been immensely popular with collectors and enthusiasts. The diameter of the Ref. 5216 is 39.50 mm, 2.7 mm larger than its predecessor. It is a contemporary format that combines prominence with elegance.
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Ref. 5073 Minute repeater with perpetual calendar and 158 baguette diamonds totaling 5.27 ct. This new model from Patek Philippe is a paragon of watchmaking and gem-setting virtuosity. The platinum case accommodates the self-winding caliber R 27 Q movement composed of 467 parts with a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and moon phases; the bezel, lugs, and clasp are adorned with a breathtaking array of diamonds. The Ref. 5073 is the ideal timekeeping instrument for successful men who appreciate the aesthetic appeal of the master jeweler’s art as much as they are fascinated by the complexities of haute horlogerie. It unites micro-mechanical perfection with the allure of flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds. As applied hour markers, baguette diamonds of superb quality also adorn the jet black solid-gold dial which, in addition to the time, also indicates the calendar data on three subsidiary dials: The day of the week and 24 hours at 9 o’clock, the month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock, as well as the date and moon phases at 6 o’clock. The hammers of the minute repeater strike two extra-long cathedral gongs that produce a particularly resonant and reverberating chime. For the watchmaker, aligning these gongs is one of the most delicate tasks because they must contact neither the case nor each other, even though they are freely suspended and wrap around the movement more than once. The measured rhythm of the strikes is controlled by a small centrifugal governor with a skeletonized Calatrava cross in its cap. through the sapphire-crystal case back.
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Ref. 7000 Ladies First Minute Repeater The first Patek Philippe ladies’ watches with repeaters date back over one hundred years. However, those timepieces were worn on necklaces. The new Ref. 7000 owes its delicate silhouette to the ultra-thin self-winding caliber R 27 PS movement that is only 5.05 mm thick, thanks to the 22K gold rotor that is fully recessed in the plate. It is the perfect match for an elegant Officer’s-style case in softly gleaming 18K rose gold that accents the graceful personality of the watch. Rose gold is also the precious metal used for the applied Breguet numerals, minute pearls, and Poire Stuart hands that beautifully complement the matt cream tone of the solid-gold dial. On the reverse of this romantic face is the sapphire-crystal back that affords a spectacular view of the highly complicated movement. It reveals the lavish decorations with Geneva striping, manually chamfered bridges, the guilloched gold rotor, and the gold-plated Calatrava cross on the skeletonized cap of the centrifugal governor, which is responsible for the steady cadence of the strike sequences.
Ref. 7059 Ladies First Split-Seconds Chronograph Specially created for ladies Patek Philippe unveiled the second stopwatch for women. This time, it is a split-seconds chronograph that not only measures the duration of an event but also allows lap and reference times to be stopped. It is a true Grand Complication that projects feminine elegance despite the extreme micromechanical complexity of its inner life. No other manufacture has succeeded in developing a thinner split-seconds movement than the caliber CHR 27-525 PS: only 5.25 mm in height, it is even thinner than most regular chronograph movements. It is integrated in an 8.6 mm Officer’s-style case in 18K rose gold that radiates timeless grace with its sleek contours, straight lugs, and screwed strap bars. The bezel is adorned with 153 and the display back with 76 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approx. 1.12 ct. – all of them set by hand by master jewelers.
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C HOPA R D BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Craftsmanship at its best Chopard T
he iconic Swiss luxury watch brand that celebrated its 150th anniversary last year was back at BaselWorld 2011 with stunning collections of watches, jewellery and lifestyle accessories. Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, CoPresidents of Chopard have reinforced the luxury brand’s position in the world of horology and jewellery over the years through collections that astound not only through craftsmanship but beauty too. At BaselWorld 2011, the Co-Presidents showcased the various launches from the leading watch and jewellery brand. Chopard remained true to their longstanding heritage of producing innovative and exquisite creations. Every creation from the house of Chopard is breathtakingly unique. A look at the beautiful creations that were presented at BaselWorld 2011…
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The Imperiale Collection The new Imperiale line from Chopard embarks on enshrining the quintessence of style and elegance within a watch. The reinterpretation of the brand’s famous 1990s model, now available in 28mm or Two-Tone versions, draws inspiration from refined, dynamic and natural women with strong personalities who appreciate the discreet luxury of extremely beautiful objects.The splendours of the imperial age are expressed through this sculptural timepiece. The delicately engraved motherof-pearl dial base evokes the embroidered cushions on which monarchs used to place their insignia. It is encircled, by Roman numerals representing resolutely ‘imperial’ symbols marking off the hours. The finely curved hands
- reminiscent of tapered daggers used by sovereigns in combat, while the lotus-shaped crown is fitted on a case middle with pure, uncluttered sides enhancing the ethereally light and luminous appeal of this model. In an ultimate touch of refinement, the lugs resembling antique columns are adorned with tiny amethyst briolette-cut cabochons for the rose gold versions and blue sapphires for the white gold models. The delicate royal purple shade of the stones echoes the colour of the transfers on the watch dial as well as the Chopard signature. The first Chopard timepiece to host a movement from the workshops of Fleurier Ebauches, the Imperiale Full Set model combines Haute Joaillerie and precision mechanics in an infinitely precious aesthetic. Chopard refuses to choose between Haute Joaillerie and mechanical reliability, instead its entire expertise of the past 150 years flow into this model. While the Imperiale Full Set appears in truly regal raiment with its admirable gem-setting composed of baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds, this irresistible gem is also endowed with the outstanding performances of an in-house developed and manufactured mechanical movement.
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The Happy Sport watch, a sporting interpretation of the famous Happy Diamonds concept, never fails to charm. Contemporary, urban, sophisticated, exuberant and daring, it lends itself to all manners of flattery
of the dials, which are also diamond-set and only touched upon by the elegant dagger-shaped hour and minutes hands that elegantly move over the face of the watch. In its white gold version, the dial, case and crown of the Imperiale are entirely paved with baguette-cut diamonds. In its rose gold version, the brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the lightly curved case and dial rub elegant shoulders with the baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, while the rose gold Roman numerals and appliques accentuate this delicately woven motif. The L.U.C. Magic The L.U.C. is among Chopard’s horology highlights. This year the brand has launched the L.U.C. Quattro, L.U.C. Engine One, L.U.C. Chrono One, L.U.C. XP Tonneau, L.U.C. 1937 and L.U.C. Urushi. The latter is the most unique. A Japanese artist proclaimed a “Living National Treasure” by the authorities of his country, Kiichiro Masumura has supervised the creation of unique dials for Chopard based on the time-honoured Urushi techniques. These magnificent works of art are magnificently showcased within the understated lines of the L.U.C XP, an ultra-thin model equipped with the mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96HM movement.
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The Imperiale Full Set is the very first watch in the Chopard collections to house a movement entirely developed and produced in the Fleurier Ebauches workshops owned by the Chopard group and located in the Neuchâtel Jura. In doing so, it displays the substantial advancement of the vertical integration process undertaken by Chopard in recent years. Code-named calibre CHOPARD 01.03-C, the beating heart of the Imperiale Full Set beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), while its barrel ensures a 60-hour power reserve. This range of characteristics ensures the reliability, performance and precision of this new mechanical selfwinding movement. Nestling at the heart of the Imperiale Full Set and visible through the transparent case-back, the Fleurier Ebauches Calibre CHOPARD 01.03-C takes on its full dimension in its sparkling gemstone cloak. The 40 mm cases in 18-carat white or rose gold are entirely paved with diamonds and appear like an extension 25 25
precious snake and tortoise) respectively evoke wood, fire, earth, metal and water. The last three dials feature a peacock, a red fish and the jungle. Each meticulously painted and unique model reveals a wealth of original details imbued with a deep sense of poetry.
The quintessence of ancestral Japanese art combined with the highest degree of Swiss horological refinement: these twin concepts sum up the new L.U.C XP Urushi watches born from the encounter of Chopard and Kiichiro Masumura, who has been awarded with the title “Living National Treasure” by the Japanese government. The watches feature the traditional Urushi and Maki-e techniques, magnificently highlighted by the pure, understated design of the ultra-thin L.U.C XP model. The “Living National Treasure” concept was developed in 1950 by the Japanese government and used to define all those to contribute to preserving a heritage, a culture and ancestral skills such as Urushi. Urushi is the ancestral Japanese art of lacquering. The varnish is made from the sap of the Urushi tree, also know as the “lacquer tree” or the “Japanese varnish tree” – and which mainly grows in Japan and China. The harvesting of the resin, somewhat like the rubber from the hevea Brasiliensis or “rubber tree”, can only be done once a year and in very small quantities. The L.U.C XP Urushi is the first timepiece with a dial adorned in this way. In 2009, a few initial models were crafted and presented exclusively in Japan. Chopard presents a collection of nine different dials technically supervised by Kiichiro Masumura and designed, painted and adorned with gold dust by the Yamada Heiando Company an official supplier to the Emperor of Japan. These works represent the five basic elements of the universe according to the ancient philosophy of Chinese natural science, and one portrays the universe itself. The five legendary creatures – the dragon with a blue horn, the phoenix, the qilin in the moonlight, the crouching tiger and the genbu (a blend of
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A feminine touch to Mille Miglia For over twenty years, Chopard has been partnering the legendary Mille Miglia, a historical car race that takes drivers from Brescia to Rome and from Rome to Brescia. The Mille Miglia vividly symbolises Chopard’s sporting spirit and has become a watchmaking classic. Immediately recognisable thanks to its rubber strap featuring the 1960s Dunlop Racing tyre-tread motif, it is annually reinvented to the delight of collectors. This year Chopard has decided to launch a model dedicated to women that dares to sport a vivid pink shade. Named Racing in Pink, the watch is equipped with a steel case as generously sized as that of its masculine alter ego (44 mm in diameter) this new monochrome model brings a fanciful yet controlled touch
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The equally precious new Haute Joaillerie Xtravaganza watch is a luminous and cheerful model that sparkles brightly on the wrist, secured by delicate rose gold loops to a black satin strap
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Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-Presidents of Chopard have reinforced the luxury brand’s position in the world of horology and jewellery over the years through collections that astound not only through craftsmanship but beauty too
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to the Mille Miglia collection. Though it is delightfully flashy and resolutely feminine thanks to its varnished pink dial, the Mille Miglia Racing in Pink reflects the world that inspired it through a variety of nods to the racing theme. These include maintaining the collection’s signature features such as the red colour of the central sweep-seconds hands and the minute markings, along with the famous red and white arrow-shaped Mille Miglia emblem. Every inch as technically impeccable as its illustrious predecessors, the Mille Miglia Racing in Pink is water-resistant to 100 metres. The elegance of the oval Since its launch in 1993, the Happy Sport collection has enjoyed unwavering success. The numerous versions of this sporty and elegant watch have made it one of Chopard’s star models. This year, the Geneva-based House is reinventing this great classic and presenting the Happy Sport Oval. The Happy Sport watch, a sporting interpretation of the famous Happy Diamonds concept, never fails to charm. Contemporary, urban, sophisticated, exuberant and daring, it lends itself to all manners of flattery. Pursuing the constant renewal of this must-have model, Chopard now presents the new Happy Sport Oval. This extremely feminine watch features a new case with modern proportions, displaying even more elegant and ergonomic lines. Its slimmer size, along with its sleek, pure lines and
its resolutely streamlined silhouette, suffuse this precious timepiece with unmistakable sensuality. Seven playful moving diamonds whirl and twirl around its dial. This object of desire encapsulates today’s woman, surpassing its role as a mere accessory, instead reflecting the beauty of life and movement. Chrono clocks the spirit Chopard has for many years been paying tribute to the world of historical cars. The latest release, the Classic Racing Superfast Chrono Split Second, demonstrates extreme attention to detail. Everything about this timepiece is reminiscent of motor sports. Chronometer-certified by the COSC, its split-second chronograph movement enabling measurement of intermediate or “split” times makes it an indispensable dashboard instrument for all aficionados of fine mechanisms. Passion is an excellent guide, as Chopard once again proves with the new Classic Racing Superfast Chrono Split Second. This elegant and sporty model enriches the Classic Racing collection that pays homage to the automobile world. The House is a longstanding and faithful partner of several classic races, including the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and the “Corsa più bella del mondo”, better known as the Mille Miglia.
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The L.U.C. is among Chopard’s horology highlights and this year the brand has launched the new L.U.C. Quattro, L.U.C. Engine One, L.U.C. Chrono One, L.U.C. XP Tonneau, L.U.C. 1937 and L.U.C. Urushi
Everything about the new Classic Racing Superfast Chrono Split Second evokes the distinctive world of period car races, starting with the famous Dunlop Racing strap featuring a design reflecting the tread of the eponymous 1960s racing tyres. It is made of natural rubber and fitted with a folding clasp. The dial evokes the counters on vintage racing cars, while the minute markers on the flange are reminiscent of the numerals adorning the rev counters and speedometers. Every last detail of this model – including the tiny racing steering-wheel in DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) blackened steel appearing on the rubber-moulded screw-locked crown, the grooves engraved on the sides of the lugs, as well as the cooling vents and the Allen screws on the bezel inspired by those used on wheel rims – represents yet another reference to venerable competition cars. The functions of the Classic Racing Superfast Chrono Split Second are equally impressive. Housed in a 45 mmdiameter DLC blackened steel case, the self-winding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC powers the hour and minute hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as a pointer-type date display in a subdial at 3 o’clock – an increasingly rare but attractive function. But the real star of this watch is the split-second chronograph, an entertaining complication that is in fact one of the most technically demanding of them all. It enables measurement of either a 28
split time or of two events that begin at the same time but with different durations. When the mechanism is activated using the pusher at 2 o’clock, the perfectly superimposed red sweep-second hand and the white split-second hand begin running simultaneously. In the first case, the splitsecond hand may be stopped by means of a pusher at 8 o’clock moulded in red rubber – another new feature. In the second, once the split-second is immobilised, another press on the pusher at 2 o’clock stops the sweep-second hand. Two measurements are thus visible – with the minutes and hours read off on counters at 12 and 6 o’clock – before the mechanism is reset by means of the 5 o’clock pusher. The early 20th century witnessed the appearance of motor races with various countries competing against each other in cars sporting their national livery. Red was first attributed to an Italian car manufacturer before it became the colour of a whole country: Italy. It is to this nation that the new Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa pays vibrant homage. Chronometer-certified by the COSC, this sleekly sophisticated chronograph is bound to delight devotees of Italian speed machines… Bright red is the vivid shade adorning the dial of the new Mille Miglia model from Chopard, named GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa in reference to the “racing colours” sported by cars taking part in motor races until the late 1960s. This year the spotlight is on Italy and its famous “Rosso Corsa” before other Mille Miglia “Racing Colours” will later take this colour to the road. This extremely sporting and sophisticated watch is inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia car rally, with its Brescia-Rome-Brescia route that annually attracts the cream of classic racing cars, and which has been partnered by Chopard since 1988. The origin of “racing colours” dates back to the Gordon Bennett Cup, the famous car race that involved competing national teams from 1900 onwards. This sparked the emergence of “Vintage Blue” for France and “Rosso Corsa” for Italy, followed by “British Racing Green”, “Speed Yellow” for Belgium and “Silver Racing” for Germany. The new Mille Miglia GT Chrono Rosso Corsa features a generous 44 mm-diameter polished titanium case. Its redvarnished dial with silver-toned snailed hollowed counters echoes the colour of the stitching on the black leather strap, as well as the minute numerals transferred on the inner bezel ring. Its oversized 6 and 12 o’clock numerals transferred beneath the sapphire crystal lend an exclusive touch. Its aerodynamic titanium pushers, along with the tachometric scale engraved on the bezel, further reinforce its sporting nature. The perfect legibility of the information provided is highlighted by a sapphire crystal that is glareproofed on both sides, while the case-back is engraved with the legendary route of the Mille Miglia rally. On terms of the mechanism, the self-winding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, meaning 4
Hertz. It is visible through the transparent case-back and has a 46-hour power reserve. It drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, a date window with integrated magnifying lens at 3 o’clock, as well as a chronograph with sweep-second hand, a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – the latter appearing on split levels. Its case equipped with a screw-locked crown is waterresistant to 100 metres. The Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa is produced in a limited series of just 1,000 watches, thereby underscoring its exclusive character. Jewellery tells time Chopard has made a speciality of creating jewellery watches. Who could be more suited to combining the best of Fine Watchmaking and Haute Joaillerie within one and the same creation than Chopard, uniting the full range of watchmaking and jewellery-making skills within its workshops. Since entering the selective world of Haute Joaillerie, Chopard has constantly surprised observers by its creativity and its ability to push the frontiers of technical feasibility. Over the years, the Geneva-based company has earned a premier position within this elite circle in which
inventiveness and expertise of gem-setting artisans plays a crucial role. One of the results is the emergence of jewellery watches with refined designs, showcasing the finest precious stones such as diamonds, rubies and emeralds in a broad variety of cuts and shades of colour. This year, two daring yet exquisitely delicate models are being introduced. The Haute Joaillerie Watch is an ode to the talent of the master gem-setters. Its snailed-motif dial is adorned with a carpet of brilliant-cut diamonds in subtly graded sizes while discreet and slender hands dance across the centre, as if to remind admirers that over and above its assumed role as a beautiful piece of jewellery, the mission of the Haute Joaillerie Watch is to mark the passing of time. The equally precious new Haute Joaillerie Xtravaganza watch is a luminous and cheerful model that sparkles brightly on the wrist, secured by delicate rose gold loops to a black satin strap. Its generous brilliant-pavé rose gold dial highlights the beauty of the diamonds which appear to have been randomly sprinkled according to the gemsetter’s aesthetic preference… creating an asymmetrical look that lends a playfully relaxed touch liable to prove quite simply irresistible.
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Classic StylingTudor
BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
tudor
breguet
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T
udor is a brand rooted in style, function and technological precision. At BASELWORLD 2011, the brand showcased new models that are the perfect embodiment of its resolutely modern and sophisticated identity, which is founded on a subtle balance between style and technical performance.
Tudor Heritage Advisor The new Tudor Heritage Advisor is the latest addition to the Tudor Heritage line, which was launched in 2010 and draws its inspiration from the brand’s past, reinterpreting its most iconic models. At the crossroads of style and technology, the 2011 Advisor is a modern version of the emblematic 1957 alarm watch and a true expression of Tudor’s vintage spirit. Its movement is equipped with a mechanical alarm clock module, exclusively developed by Tudor and featuring a perfectly uniform crisp clear sound. With added modern flair, the new Advisor conserves the original shape and proportions of the middle case, lugs, and bezel, the familiar Dauphine hands and bevelled hour markers, as well as the characteristically shaped red alarm hand. The case diameter has been increased from 34
mm to 42 mm to suit today’s tastes. The disc at 3 o’clock indicates the status of the alarm power reserve. The alarm function is activated via a specially shaped pusher at 8 o’clock, and its ON/OFF indicator is displayed in a dial aperture at 9 o’clock. The date is indicated by a hand on the counter at 6 o’clock. The winding crown at 2 o’clock is engraved with the name ADVISOR and is used to set the alarm. The crown at 4 o’clock is delicately decorated with the Tudor rose from the original dial and is used to access the winding, timesetting and date-changing functions. The watch is fitted with either a vintage-size satin-finished three-piece link steel bracelet, or an alligator leather strap with a folding clasp and a new safety catch. Tudor Grantour This year, Tudor is giving a new dimension to the Grantour line, its collection devoted to passion for motor sports, by redesigning its Grantour Date and Grantour Chrono models and introducing a new model: the Grantour Chrono Fly-Back. This most recent addition to the collection allows consecutive time intervals to be measured rapidly thanks to its on the fly chronograph reset and instant restart functions.
With the same 42 mm case as the Grantour Date and Grantour Chrono models, this new model is equipped with a Fly-Back pusher that has a red marking. The small seconds hand counter at 9 o’clock is set in a background motif reminiscent of automobile transmission belts. The Grantour Chrono Fly-Back model is available in steel and in a combination of steel and 18 ct pink gold, a first for the Tudor brand. All the models in the Grantour line are equipped with bistable pushers that are lockable at one eighth of a turn, and satin-finished streamlined lugs that have a distinctly technical look. Other features such as the new bevelled hour markers and the flange with minute markers are among some of this year’s enhancements to the Grantour Date, Chrono and Chrono Fly-Back models. Tudor Fastrider Tudor takes us for a spin in the seductive high-speed world of motorcycle racing with its evocatively named new line, Fastrider. The sleek, bevelled design of the new 42 mm case gives the Fastrider chronograph a very sporty and technical look. The date corrector at 9 o’clock is decorated with a black
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Tudor Clair de Rose TUDOR combines refinement and extreme attention to detail in a totally feminine timepiece. The new TUDOR Clair de Rose line is a hymn to feminine beauty. As its name suggests, it takes its inspiration from a world of reverie and moonlit nights and transports us into a unique delicate and sophisticated universe. The centre seconds hand in the form of a cut-out TUDOR rose lends captivating and infinite charm to the timepiece. Roundness and softness come to mind to define its cushion-shaped case, its curving silhouette and domed sapphire crystal. The looped decorations harmoniously enveloping the winding crown are a subtle detail of jewellery design. The crown is topped with a transparent dome containing a rose, the logo of the TUDOR brand in the 1950s. The fabric strap features the same scroll motif on a satin background, an extra touch of refinement. The triple fitting attaching the bracelet to the case adds a mechanical aspect and creates an unexpected contrast that enhances the piece.
PVD-coated shield, a technical detail that alludes to the world of motorcycles. The chronograph pushers, which fit into the middle case through black PVD-coated cylinders, are reminiscent of engine pistons. These direct-action chronograph pushers make it is easy to measure short periods of time with precision, a function indispensable to all speed-related disciplines. The bezel is engraved with a tachymetric scale and, like the top surface of the lugs, is satin-finished. The dial has been specially designed for the TUDOR Fastrider collection and is characterised by minute markers on the flange and by three vertical stripes, another reference to the racing world. The dial comes in three colours : black, white, or silversun, each featuring three black totalizers with red hands. Each version of the dial is available with either bevelled hour markers or double-layer Arabic numeral appliques. The design of the semi cut-out hands is sleek and precise. The inscription TUDOR GENEVE appears on a small satin-finished plaque below the brand’s red logo at 12 o’clock.
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H U BLOT BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Beauty meets function PERRELET T
he brand Perrelet reflects timeslessness that is inherent to traditional luxury watchmaking, as characterised by the four key qualities of authenticity, creativity, reliability and quality. It conveys strong emotional values rooted in its prestigious past. A well-established brand in the world of horology, Perrelet is characterised by a contemporary interpretation of traditional watchmaking. Seacraft In a field so far not explored, Perrelet is plunging into the aquatic world with three instruments of measurement; its new collection comprises the 3 hands-date, the GMT and the Chronograph. All three are proposed in a robust stainless steel case with elegant contrasting polished and brushed surfaces. A 4mm thick sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment on both sides, and a stamped, screw-down case back, guaranteeing water-resistance to 777 metres, complete the case features. The main model featured here, the Chronograph, has a screw-down crown and two push-pieces encircled with aluminium rings, which contribute to the smooth functioning of the mechanical movement. An automatic helium valve, a vital element when the watch is being used in a diving chamber, is located at 9 o’clock. The fluting, which is the Brand’s aesthetic, is clearly recognizable on the one-way, notched, rotating bezel, showing a 60-minute scale and featuring a luminescent marker at 12 o’clock. The extreme demands imposed by this sometimes very dark environment necessitate a clear legibility of its displays. The symmetric indication of its counters on the white, black or blue dials, the applied indexes and the hands containing luminescent material produce wonderful contrasts.
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Tourbillon A mechanical marvel, the Tourbillon remains a benchmark in the universe of luxury watchmaking and signals the return of a masterpiece to the Perrelet collection. In its generous 50mm, rose gold and DLC steel case, already appreciated in the Perrelet collection, the new interpretation of this rare automatic Tourbillon with off-centre hour and minute display, is a magnificent demonstration of style. Perrelet has chosen to work the structure and composition of its latest creation in depth, in order to evoke the multidimensional aspect of time. Thus the cage of the flying tourbillon is presented inside a cylindrical ring positioned at 6 o’clock. The small second’s indication is provided by the revolving of the cage, which completes one full rotation every 60 seconds. Two wing-shaped, carbon fibre zones lead the eye towards 12 o’clock, where the tips of the hour and minute hands are finished in a luminescent material. The minute hand, precisely profiled to rise out of its recessed base area, matches the contours of its surrounding limits perfectly. The extensions of the claws gripping the case embellish the dial in the form of six double tubes, adding force and character to the whole. On the reverse side, the crystal case back reveals the “Côte de Genève” decoration of the movement and the Perrelet oscillating weight, brushed and set with a crystal engraved with the brand’s name. This complication is completed with a black rubber strap and DLC steel tongue buckle in a limited series of 20 pieces only.
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Turbine XL Passion, know-how, and enthusiasm are the key-words echoing around the corridors at Perrelet. In 1777, in those days, when Abraham-Louis Perrelet completed his invention of the automatic movement, it was precisely these qualities that inspired him, too. As heir to an invention that today vibrates in every automatic watch, Perrelet holds the movement at the heart of its priorities. The House patented its exclusive module, the Double Rotor, in 1995. This calibre (Perrelet P-181) has automatic winding and enables one to observe the two rotors, one on the dial side and the other on the movement side. On the base of the latter, Perrelet created its emblematic model – the TURBINE. As the Brand’s very own true speciality, the Turbine continues on the crest of its wave with the arrival of the TURBINE XL. Bold, intuitive and with its own distinctive style, the new TURBINE XL is free to fully assume its role in its generous 50mm diameter case. It breaks with the brand’s classical models and distinguishes itself as the tornado of this year end. Its powerful, racy case has undergone a meticulous development. Its concave form and the perfect integration of its crown preserve the original inspiration derived from the aeronautical sector. Four grooves rise up the side of the middle case as if cupping the (Diamond Light Coating) DCL treated steel bezel. In order to ensure the optimum maintenance of the natural rubber bracelet, a central support has been added between the horns, perfecting the model’s aesthetic finish. The sapphire caseback and the different material combinations ensure the seamless continuity of the collection. Turbine XS Surfing on the wave of success generated by its flagship product, Perrelet acknowledges the ladies by producing its Turbine in a completely feminine look; a collection with two faces, urbane and perfect for getting away. The new TURBINE XS has a 41mm case and is equally seductive in stainless steel as in DLC-coated stainless steel. Its curved lines with alternating polished and brushed surfaces provide a more sensual feel. Like fine drops of frozen rain, diamonds cover the bezel, horns and case sides of the most glamorous version. Dressed ready for an evening occasion bathed in light, the studded varieties of the Turbine XS dazzle with a brilliance, which holds already in itself a promise of elegance. The lower dial in white or black mother-of-pearl allows magnificent rays of light to filter through. With the first motion of the turbine, the observer can measure the scale of the impact, which is spectacular and dazzling! With the effect of the rotational speed, the turbine tends to recede in importance, revealing the 12 spokes in brilliant stones with a thousand reflections.
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BR I E T L I NG BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Exceptional
timepieces-
Brietling B
reitling for Bentley is lining up two exceptional champions on the starting grid. Named in honour of the most famous of the Bentley Boys, who was also the first driver to win three consecutive editions of the le mans 24 hours (1928, 1929 and 1930), the Bentley Barnato and the Bentley Barnato racing chronographs are distinguished by their peerless performances and their resolutely out of the ordinary design.
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BENTLEY BARNATO Resolutely Bentley in terms of its design, the Bentley Barnato associates a generously sized case with fixed bezel featuring a knurled raised motif and red-rimmed sports counters – just like on the dashboards of the finest sports cars from the British carmaker. Totally Breitling from a technical standpoint, it combines a selfwinding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the COSC with an ultra-efficient and ultra-legible “30-second chronograph” system. Its originality extends to the reverse side fitted with a transparent back serving like an open car bonnet to reveal a wheel-rim shaped oscillating weight. Available with a black or silver dial enhanced by applied hour-markers and tone-on-tone counters with a refined spiral motif, the Bentley Barnato comes in steel as well as in a 500-piece red gold limited edition. It can be teamed with a leather, crocodile leather or rubber strap, or with the particularly sturdy and comfortable Speed bracelet. BENTLEY BARNATO RACING The Bentley Barnato Racing special series features a spectacular design that makes it the most original of all Breitling for Bentley chronographs. The pointer-type
counters are replaced by a highly original disc-type counters system displaying the hours and minutes of the measured time by means of two red triangles. The openworked shape of the silver-toned discs is reminiscent of the steering wheels on the famous Bentley models that won the Le Mans 24 Hours race five times between 1924 and 1930 – thanks to Barnato and the other Bentley Boys. The “30-second chronograph” serves to measure the best laps to the nearest 1/8th of a second. The oscillating weight inspired by the wheel rims on the new Continental GT provides a maximum of energy to the COSC chronometercertified movement. Carved in steel for the standard version, the Bentley Barnato Racing takes on an even more exclusive aura in a 500-piece red gold limited edition. CHRONOMA GMT Adjusting instantly to the time and date of the place of arrival, while maintaining a 24-hour home-time display and without losing any precision in counting the minutes, must be every traveler’s dream. A dream now come true with the new Chronomat GMT, a travel watch from Breitling boasting unprecedented user friendliness. The wearer need only pull out the crown and turn it
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forwards or backwards to move between timezones in an outstandingly simple manner. Equipped with the new Breitling Caliber 04, entirely developed and produced within the company workshops, the Chronomat GMT is one of the rare chronographs to offer such a smoothly functional dual timezone system. With its exclusive design and its dial featuring subtle three-dimensional effects, it is the new benchmark for all those who want to experience high performances in all parts of the world. The fact that the Chronomat GMT is such an exceptional instrument is also because it combines this extremely practical dual timezone system with a chronograph – and not just any chronograph. The brand-new Breitling Caliber 04 developed for this model is indeed derived from Breitling Caliber 01, the sturdiest, most reliable and most high-performance of all selfwinding chronograph movements, entirely designed and produced within the company workshops. It features the same original architecture and the same cuttingedge characteristics, including a column wheel, a vertical coupling clutch guaranteeing high-precision activation, and an over 70-hour power reserve – along with various innovative special characteristics such as the patented recentering device for the zero-resetting hammers. The new Chronomat GMT is equipped with two central hour hands. The first matches the minute hand and runs over a 12-hour scale, while the second is tipped with a red triangle and runs in 24-hour mode. When the user is in his home country, the two hour hands move in a perfectly synchronized manner. To adjust the 12-hour hand to local time, the user simply pulls the crown out to position 2 and turns it in either direction by the number of notches corresponding to the number of hours composing the time difference. The date display is indexed to this 12-hour hand and changes automatically if required, both backwards or forwards. The red-tipped hand keeps track of home time on a 24-hour basis, thus enabling one to distinguish between day and night.
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F ort i s BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
A name to reckon with -
FORTIS
F
ortis was founded in Switzerland in 1912. The company presented the world’s first self winding wristwatch in series production in 1926. Since then Fortis have won many prestigious awards for their work in the field of watchmaking. In 1994, after rigorous endurance tests the Uri Gagarin Russian state scientific-research test centre at Star City chose the Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chronograph to be part of the Cosmonauts official equipment. Now Fortis pieces are worn by Astronauts under the harsh and demanding conditions of free space outside the International Space Station. Fortis was present at Baselworld 2011 with an outstanding collection. Re-edition of a classic Now facing the 100th jubilee, two new FORTIS STRATOLINER Chronographs which come in limited editions are launched. The STRATOLINER Chronograph Steel/PVD with massive rose gold 5N/ 18kt crown, pushers and bezel is limited to only 100 pieces. The STRATOLINER Chronograph Steel/PVD with polished elements and a bicolor finish of PVD black and steel is limited to 2012 pieces. Both models compose an exceptionally harmonious general view, the contrast dial with its sub counters harmoniously accompanies the three-part bicolor case. Available executions are an extra padded black leather or a croco leather strap with folding clasp which guarantee an excellent wearing comfort. A see through case back allows the inside view. The inner values are based on the perfect Swiss Valjoux chronograph movement with fine timing device and Incabloc shock absorber.
The exceptional Ladies range Not only do men love a reliable companion on their wrist and at the same time can appreciate the intrinsic values of the mechanical movement ticking away inside. The reliability of an automatic mechanism, which winds up with a few movements fascinates men and women alike. To mark the 100th anniversary FORTIS celebrates with a special offering for ladies. FORTIS’s expertise lies in manufacturing ladies watches for Tiffany’s in the 40s. This year FORTIS launches the SQUARE SL. The design of the SQUARE SL offers an ideal basis for sporty yet elegant variations, outfitted with a high quality, polished stainless steel bracelet with butterfly deployant clasp, skinfriendly silicone strap, Louisiana leather strap or leopard printed exotic leather strap. A sapphire crystal protects the watch promising a pleasurable time experience. The attractive hour markers subtly underscore the simple and clean design of this elegant FORTIS Ladies’ watch, which is equipped with a precise Swiss Automatic movement. 41
LONG I N E S BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Swiss Luxury LONGINES B
ased in St. Imier in Switzerland since 1832, the watchmaker Longines can look back on more than 175 years of non-stop craftsmanship, as well as a solid heritage as timekeeper for world championships in various sports and collaborator with different international sports federations. Known for the elegance of its timepieces, Longines is a member of the Swatch Group Ltd, the world’s leading manufacturer of horological products. With the winged hourglass as its emblem, the brand has outlets in over 130 countries.
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Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases Longines has succeeded for the first time in bringing together the day, the night and the phases of the moon in a symphony of retrograde hands with a new timepiece that is named the Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases. The Longines Master Collection Retrograde is a combination of the brand’s technical heritage and its unmistaken aesthetical quality. It is a line that uses a calibre that was specially developed for Longines. With its various retrograde functions this line has rapidly become the figurehead of The Longines Master Collection, which is a tribute to the brand’s long watchmaking tradition. The exclusive movement is now been set in a case whose lines are even more refined and elegant.
Longines Twenty-Four Hours In the 1950s Longines supplied watches to the Swiss national airline, Swissair. These timepieces, which had been developed specifically from the brand’s aviators’ watches, had a very distinctive 24-hour dial. This technical characteristic met the needs of navigators who, at the time, had to determine the position of the aircraft and set up a flight plan. Longines has now re-issued this watch for both historical and functional reasons, as well as for the aesthetic attraction it still holds. The new version has been given the name Longines Twenty-Four Hours.
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Ladies Diamond Conquest As part of The Longines Sport Collection, the Conquest line has been given extra sparkle thanks to the scattering of diamonds. A first glittering model is set with 120 diamonds around the bezel while a second model combines the brilliance of these precious stones with the strength of ceramic. The dynamic beauty of the Ladies Diamond Conquest models, achieved through a marriage of sporty design and glittering diamonds, echoes the fine balance between performance and elegance that characterises the Conquest line. Sporty women who appreciate elegance will find exactly what they are looking for in the new Ladies Diamond Conquest. Longines DolceVita Since it was launched in 1997, the Longines DolceVita collection has been an enormous success, thanks to its contemporary elegance. These models are a horological interpretation of the easy-going Italian way of life – la dolce vita. The perfectly harmonious proportions of the rectangular timepieces in this collection are its unique characteristic. Today Longines has turned a new page in the life story of the Longines DolceVita with brand new versions that combine steel and rose or yellow gold. The famous Swiss watchmaker has now created a new addition to the collection with a dial set entirely with diamonds, as the “jewel in the crown“. This exquisite watch reflects the light in a host of subtle colours through the fiery brilliance of the diamonds and the elegant combination of the different metals – a true jewel in its own right.
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Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph Record The Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph Record combines various elements that make this brand-new watch a modern descendant of the timing instruments created by Longines in the past. Thanks to its exclusive column-wheel movement, it joins the lineage of equipment developed by the brand since 1878, when Longines produced its first chronograph. Moreover, The Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph Record has a centre direct-drive second hand with a vernier scale – echoing a mechanical chronograph counter designed by the company in 1966. This system allows the user to read off the time measured easily and precisely using the position of the centre seconds hand with its vernier scale relative to the fixed scale on the dial. The Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph Record has a sporty design which complements its chronograph functions. The self-winding movement is housed in a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41 mm. The cream or black dial has a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, a small seconds at 9 o’clock and a date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. The hands are coated with Super-LumiNova while the red centre dragging seconds hand with its vernier scale is complemented by a fixed scale on the dial which enables the user to read off eighths of a second. Echoing the timing equipment produced by Longines in the 1960s, The Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph Record is fitted on an elegant black alligator strap.
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TIFFANY & CO. BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Elegant Glitter –
Tiffany Watch Co. Ltd. 46
T
iffany Watch Co. Ltd made its debut at Baselworld in 2009 featuring its first collection of timepieces. This initiative was born out of a strategic alliance between the Swatch Group and Tiffany & Co. USA that marries the technical expertise, the consolidated luxury segment experience and the distribution prowess of the world’s largest manufacturer of watches with the international brand distinction and credentials of Tiffany & Co. Atlas Dome The new Atlas Dome is quintessential Tiffany, offering its iconic design elements on a black dial with a diamond-encrusted bezel and a 39 mm case in lustrous, 18-carat red gold. The classic Atlas Dome makes proud reference to the Atlas Clock above the entrance to the flagship Tiffany & Co. Fifth Avenue boutique. Essential elements of this watch’s personality, the characteristic Roman numerals are clearly reminiscent of those presented on the Atlas Clock. They take pride of place on the elegant black dial, offering a supremely legible view of the passing hours, enhanced by a sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment.
The rich, red gold case lends the Atlas Dome its alluring warmth and evident splendour. Presented in a harmonious 39 mm edition, its bezel is set with 76 full cut, top-quality diamonds. The hallmark Tiffany & Co. logo may be found on the crown, engraved on the buckle, and in its habitual place of honour on the dial. Three-dimensional Roman numerals are crafted in red gold and set in high relief on the flange that encircles the dial. The intentional elevation of the hour markers enhances the striking contrast between the numerals and the black dial. Elevation and contrast combine to give the Roman numerals a highly visible profile, making them the true protagonists of the watch. The date window at VI o’clock and the polished red gold hour, minute and second hands are positioned distinctly within the central zone of the dial, set apart from the hour markers to permit a clear, unobstructed reading of the time. At the heart of the new 39 mm Atlas Dome is a precise Swiss automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. The transparent case back offers a fascinating view of the mechanical movement with its rotor and Tiffany decoration.
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H U BLOT BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Timeless creations HUBLOT H
ublot’s success lies in not conforming to tradition. The brand focuses on interpreting tradition with the visions of the future. Hublot rewrote watchmaking history when its CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, mixed rubber with gold which is usually unacceptable for traditional brands. To make a complication watch in a ceramic case is also unconventional as the majority of brands place complications in gold or platinum. Hublot, needless to say, set forth new trends. The fusion between tradition and future, the connection of tradition to the future is what is unique about Hublot
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The new launches The Masterpiece collection is dedicated to complication watches and extraordinary movements, which are the fruit of cutting-edge research in the field of mechanics and engineering. The appearance of this new collection was made possible by Hublot reinforcing its manufacture›s workforce in 2010 with a team of 30 staff of the highest level, entirely dedicated to Grand Complications. The first piece in this collection, the MP-01, was presented in January 2011. It was a barrel-shaped titanium watch with a shaped chronograph movement offering a 10-day power reserve thanks to its three barrels working in series, and produced in a series of just 100 pieces. MP-02 Key of Time With the advent of digital civilisation, the abundance of information has in a sense taken over from material abundance. In today›s world with all these sources, not always legitimately ordered, we are faced with a constant barrage of information. We go from fascination to concern, from joy to disappointment or to sadness within a fraction of a second… In this limitless abundance, what is the ultimate intangible object, the one becoming ever scarcer? It is Time itself. Often defined as the true luxury of our age, time remains no less an abstraction: sometimes passing too quickly…. sometimes never-ending. Hublot innovates technology to manage time the way one would want. The mechanism driving the MP-02 Key of Time, thanks to a three-position crown, enables you to ‘modulate’ the speed at which the hours and minutes pass, according to your wishes. Position 1: If you want to savour every second of the passing of time: you can slow down the speed of the watch hands, dividing time by 4, whereby 1 conventional hour is represented as quarter of an hour on the MP-02 Key of Time display. Position 2: If you want “real” time: select normal hand speed, to retain “standard” time, whereby one conventional hour equates to one hour on the MP-02 Key of Time. Position 3: If you want time to pass quicker: you can accelerate the hand
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speed, multiplying time by four, whereby a conventional quarter of an hour is represented as one hour on the MP-02 Key of Time Key of Time display. Hence with Key of Time, the wearer can make happy moments last four times longer or make difficult moments four times shorter, while retaining the option to “return” to real time at any moment. Three different indicators in a star arrangement on the dial each indicate the current speed of time, to avoid any confusion. You can leave this complex mechanism in position 1 or 3 indefinitely, and then, simply by returning it to position 2, watch the hands readjust to conventional time display. This performance is made possible by a genuine “mechanical memory” built into the movement. In addition to this exceptional complication, the MP-02 Key of Time boasts a vertical flying tourbillon cage, with the particularity of a seconds indicator on its edge. ‘Cathedral’ Minute Repeater A world first from Hublot presented at the fair is a minute repeater watch featuring two ‘cathedral’ type gongs, a tourbillon and column wheel chronograph, with carbon fiber bridges, in a case made from carbon fiber. It is a timepiece with a sophisticated mechanism, featuring three major Haute Horlogerie complications particularly prized by connoisseurs and collectors, but revisited in a resolutely contemporary spirit: The main particularity lies in the fact that the three complications are visible from the dial side. Besides the carbon fibre, the case is also fashioned with materials such as titanium and rubber, which is a perfect illustration of the Art of Fusion key to Hublot. From a design point of view, the minute repeater bolt is ingeniously integrated into the King Power case middle, just like the chronograph control pushpiece subtly integrated into the watch’s crown. The minute repeater, activated by means of a lever situated between 8 and 10 o›clock, sounds the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. Its two “cathedral” gongs (one for hours and the other for minutes) are double the length of a regular gong. The manual-winding mechanical movement boasts a 5-day power reserve. The hour and minute indicator is situated centrally, for a conventional readout. The flying tourbillon – with suspended cage – is situated at 6 o’clock, and features an unusual structure of very high quality: indeed, the cage rotates without a ball bearing, and has a Swiss lever escapement.
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BR E G U E T BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Made to excel -
Breguet
Classique 5717 Hora Mundi Among Breguet’s collections, the Classiques are proud standard-bearers for the company’s traditional values and watchmaking art. They beautifully epitomise its two-hundred-year-plus heritage and the standout characteristics that are so original as to have influenced Fine Watchmaking history itself. The new Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi watch introduced at Baselworld 2011 perfectly exemplifies the spirit of this prestigious collection. It is made of precious materials: 18-carat red gold or 950 platinum. Three versions of the dial are available, each representing one part of the world: the Americas, the European and African continents, or Asia and Oceania – six references in all. Breguet’s teams needed three years to design, develop and perfect this complication watch. It is the first example of a mechanical timepiece with an
D
espite the crisis that struck the entire watchmaking industry in 2009, the Swatch Group and Breguet – its flagship Fine Watchmaking brand – stayed the course, continuing to invest in research and development. This proactive policy enabled them to introduce in 2010 a number of technically innovative pieces such as the Réveil Musical or the Type XXII watch, the first massproduced mechanical chronograph with an escapement operating at a frequency of 10Hz – thanks mainly to silicon. These two models are the product of advanced research on the use of new materials that add real value in watchmaking. For example, Liquidmetal® was employed to create the Réveil Musical’s membrane, a component that transmits the pin barrel’s vibration to the combs and transforms it into sound audible to the human ear. This year too, the brand excels.
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instant-jump time-zone display. This function allows the traveller to easily display the time in two pre-selected time zones, changing instantly from one to the other simply by pressing a button, without disturbing the operation of the watch. Accurate operation during setting is ensured by a stop second system. Changing the time zone affects not only the time, but also the date synchronised through a “tracking” calendar system – and the day/night indicator. Classique 7787 Moon Phases Wristwatch Still in the Classique collection, Breguet is presenting another new model, the Classique 7787 Moon Phases watch. This timepiece is distinctive in that it can be worn equally well by men or women, since it comes in two sizes (39mm and 36mm in diameter). It is proposed in two versions, each of which has a dial that is hand-engraved on a rose engine, one in white gold, the other in 18-carat red gold. Two of the 18-carat red-gold models will also be available with a grand feu enamelled dial, including one version set with diamonds. This configuration will be sold only in pairs, in a box available exclusively in Breguet Boutiques and also containing a pair of cufflinks and a matching gem set pendant.
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As traditional as it is innovative, Breguet’s Tradition is a visionary model that has now entered the very exclusive circle of iconic Fine Watchmaking creations
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Classique 5177 Wristwatch – red gold version The 5177 watch is among those models steeped in the classicism and tradition of which only Breguet holds the secret. Formerly existing only in 18-carat yellow and white gold, it is now being introduced in a red gold version. Newly clad in this warm-toned precious substance, it naturally preserves all of the sophisticated elements expected in a timepiece from the Breguet Classique collection: a fluted case middle with a transparent back; soldered strap lugs; a silvered solid-gold dial that is available with hand-engraved guilloché in a cross weave motif or in grand feu enamel; and blued steel Breguet hands decorated with the characteristic “eccentric moon tip.” Technically speaking, this watch still has simple, useful functions such as a seconds in the centre and the date, which are driven by the 777 self-winding mechanical calibre with silicon lever and escapement wheel. It cannot fail to remind us of the point to which Breguet remains the perfect union of traditional beauty and advanced technology. This year, building on the success enjoyed by the Classique 7337 at the time of its launch in 2009, the Manufacture Breguet is now offering a red gold version. Featuring a pure style directly inspired by the first timepieces by A.-L. Breguet which may be admired in the museums of the Breguet boutiques on Place Vendôme in Paris and on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich, this watch perfectly embodies the intrinsic brand values of elegance, refinement, timelessness and technical innovation. Embodying the quintessence of the Classique collection by Breguet upon which time has no hold, the 7337 indicates the day of the week, the date, as well as the age and phases of the
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being introduced in 2011. One has an 18-carat red gold case and a 507DR calibre with red gold-plated finish, the other two have an 18-carat white gold or red gold case housing a movement with a matt grey NAC finish. This type of surface treatment deposits a charcoal-grey alloy of precious metals from the platinum family by electroplating. Each of these three versions highlights in its own way – whether ultramodern or more tradition – the technical architecture of this masterpiece of micromechanics; in fact, its construction is unique, as the arrangement on both sides of the central plate shows off almost all of the components – bridges, gears, escapement and the famous “old fashioned” pare-chute shock absorber in hand-bevelled steel.
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This year, building on the success enjoyed by the Classique 7337 at the time of its launch in 2009, the Manufacture Breguet is now offering a red gold version
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moon. An off-centred chapter ring typical of the Breguet style and a small seconds subdial at 5 o’clock lend the customary asymmetrical touch to the model. Like the antique watch N° 3833, the day of the week and the date frame the phases and age of the moon, which appear at the top of the off-centred chapter ring. A 39mm case with sapphire crystal back houses the famous Breguet ultra-thin Calibre 502, fitted with an additional platform and a silicon balance-spring. Tradition 7057– new versions As traditional as it is innovative, Breguet’s Tradition is a visionary model that has now entered the very exclusive circle of iconic Fine Watchmaking creations. Three new versions of this timepiece, which has a 40 mm-diameter case middle, are 54
Marine Tourbillon 5839 High Jewellery The Marine 5837 was introduced in 2007 as the first tourbillon watch with a silicon escapement. The use of this highly innovative material for the balance-spring, escapement wheel and lever made it possible to create a tourbillon that was light, and therefore highly shock resistant; non-magnetic; and require no lubricants. The use of titanium for the tourbillon carriage also made the entire watch lighter. The combination of this prestigious complication, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a chronograph function, marked the birth of an exceptional timepiece. Here it is presented as a High Jewellery version in which Breguet’s watchmaking and jewellery expertise intersect. It has a case measuring 43 mm in diameter, fully paved with baguette-cut diamonds. The lugs and the space between, casebands, flat surfaces of the pushpieces, and sides of the crown are all paved. The ultimate expression of this is the bezel, which is set with trapeze-cut diamonds arranged in staggered rows. The entire piece boasts 186 gems totalling about 11.77 carats. The silvered solid gold dial is hand engraved on a
is still the Breguet Calibre 8827, the world’s smallest self-winding chronograph movement. This masterpiece of micromechanics has an hour counter, a 30-minute counter and a date. It is protected by a case measuring 34.60 mm in diameter, is waterresistant to 50 metres, and has a natural mother-of-pearl dial with hand engraving done on a rose engine. This piece is available on a white rubber strap.
rose engine in the Breguet tradition, in this case with a “wave” pattern, a motif that also rims the chapter ring. The dial is set with 132 full-cut diamonds, about 0.356 carat in all. Marine Tourbillon 5837 in platinum and new silvered dial When it was introduced in 2007, the Marine Tourbillon was the first watch to have a calibre with a silicon escapement. The balance-spring, balance-wheel and lever all used this material. The tourbillon carriage was made of titanium. The reason for using these ultra-innovative materials was because they made it possible to obtain a tourbillon that was light, and therefore highly shock resistant; non-magnetic; and easier to regulate since it did not require lubrication. The combination of this prestigious complication, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a chronograph function, marked the birth of an exceptional watch. Launched as an 18-carat red-gold version in 2007, it is now being introduced with a 950 platinum case. The matching dial and hands are also of this material, the use of which remains an exception in watchmaking due to the price. Here, the original hands have been replaced by blued-steel Breguet hands. The dial is still solid gold, entirely covered with hand engraving done on a rose engine in the finest Breguet tradition. Only the finish has been changed, to silvered platinum.
Reine de Naples 8918 Breguet watches have always charmed women, from Queen Marie-Antoinette of France through Empress Josephine to the Marquise de Condorcet. The Reine de Naples watch was created as a tribute to the wristwatch that Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples, ordered from Abraham-Louis Breguet, a watchmaker then located on the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris. This timepiece’s soft ovoid shape, its crown at 4 o’clock, and the distinctive strap lug are characteristics that have made it a truly iconic watch that is recognised and sought after throughout the world. Available in a number of versions with or without complications, it is introduced here in 18-carat red gold with hours and minutes. It has a self-winding movement, Breguet Calibre 537/1 and a sapphire caseback. The bezel and its flange are set with 117 full-cut diamonds totalling 0.99 carat. In the Breguet tradition, the dial is made of 18-carat silvered gold, with hand engraving done on a rose engine, and natural mother-of-pearl. It is decorated with redesigned Breguet Arabic numerals and has a pear-shaped 0.09-carat diamond at 6 o’clock.
Marine 8827 Breguet’s attention to the ladies is not a recent phenomenon, since it dates back to the end of the 18th century when company founder Abraham-Louis Breguet was starting work on one of his masterpieces, a watch for Queen Marie-Antoinette of France that incorporated all of the complications known at the time. Since then, the company that bears his name has never stopped dedicating many of its creations to the fair sex. The Marine Chronograph Ladies’ watch is part of this tradition of elegant, sophisticated timepieces. Previously available only in a diamondset version, it is now being introduced without stones, in 18-carat red or white gold, for more casual everyday wear. Its movement
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EBERHARD & CO. BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
M
aison Eberhard & Co. was founded in 1887. The Swiss watch manufacturer has always stood out from the crowd with its innate passion for chronographs. The company revolutionised the reading of time with a specially patented device aligning four counters in 2001. Never before had the minutes, the hours, 24 hours and the small seconds been horizontally positioned in a linear progression. Nor had the reading of time been made so extraordinarily natural. This year at BaselWorld 2011, the watch manufacturer launched a limited edition of their four distinct models in which the counters were characterised by a large red Roman ‘X’, symbolising the 10 years of the Chrono 4’s existence, and indicating strongly and symbolically 10 o’clock on the Chrono 4 Géant Titane and the Chrono 4 Grande Taille, Eberhard & Co.’s latest exclusive pieces, with their revolutionary spirit and untameable nature once again ready and combining to take up the most extreme challenges.
Swiss Precision– Eberhard & Co. 56
Chrono 4 Géant Leading the different launches from Eberhard & Co. at BaselWorld this year was the special titanium edition of Chrono 4 Géant; the steel version was presented last year at BaselWorld. A special limited edition of 1887 pieces, to commemorate the company’s foundation year, exploring the world of titanium, source of innovative projects and ideas. The titanium Chrono 4 Géant Limited Edition confirms the compactness, strength and dynamism conveyed by its predecessor and is an exclusive chronograph with explosive energy, generating a strong and decisive impact with every aspect of its design details. It has an imposing 46mm diameter titanium case with satin finish, a rotating bezel studded with PVD-treated screws and, engraved on the back, are the name of the model and the motto “never forget who you are”. Water-resistant to 200 metres, with an antireflective sapphire crystal, the titanium Chrono 4 Géant is
available with a black or dial, displaying a circular metal plate, with a Côte de Genève finish, 6 black screws and bearing the emblem “E” in red. Luminescent applique indexes and the central seconds hand figure prominently, embellished with black or, snailed counter displays and contrasting red hands. Reinforcing its decidedly gutsy character, the Chrono 4 Géant Limited Edition comes with an attractive, vertically sculpted rubber strap, or with a titanium “Chimère” bracelet. Gilda Eberhard & Co. is celebrating and interpreting the sophistication and entrepreneurial qualities of today’s woman, by proposing Gilda in new versions, embellished with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and black brilliants. Soft, harmonious contours, numbers that become jewels and bezels that dazzle with brilliants. A sparkling display of elegance to be enjoyed.
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Modern steel is enrobed in the fascination of fine details and the much sought after shapes that combine with the fresh and determined impact of the Chéri® bracelet and the energy of the coloured alligator straps, with their “E&CO” monogrammed buckles. Powered by a quartz movement, protected by a round, domed, anti-reflection, sapphire crystal, a gleaming case back secured by 4 concealed screws and softened by a delicate floral motif, roman numerals and elongated, leafshaped hands - Gilda expresses the enchanting femininity of the Eberhard & Co. woman. Extra-fort Grande Taille The Swiss Maison is reinterpreting one of its most representative models through a skilled balance of technology and style. Extra-fort Grande Taille presents
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itself as a chronograph with innate charisma, elegant and harmonious lines featuring a a 41mm steel case, larger than its predecessor, all combining in a chronograph with great personality. A mechanical chronograph with automatic winding, water-resistance to 5 ATM, screw down case with 6 screws, a curved sapphire crystal and available in three different dial versions. Embellished with a special diamond finish between the tachometer scale and the minute circle, the new chronograph is completed with a crocodile strap or “Chalin” steel bracelet. The Extra-fort Grande Taille is an exclusive proposition, of timeless fascination, representing a tribute to this collection’s history and to a model, which has constituted an important milestone in the history of watchmaking.
OR I S BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Breathtaking designs - ORIS F
or over 100 years Oris has been crafting distinctive timepieces at their base in Switzerland. Oris watches are purely mechanical and are marked out by their outstanding design as well as the red rotor, the symbol of Oris mechanicals. Celebrities from Formula One, diving, jazz, aviation, and Hollywood are fans of the Swiss brand.
Oris Carlos Coste Limited Edition In 2010, Carlos Coste established a new Guinness World Record for freediving, by completing a 150 metre underwater swim using no apparatus through Dos Ojos, a colossal cenote (cave network) that twists for 31 miles under Yucatan, Mexico. The Venezuelan was armed with only a torch and a monofin when he made the death-
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defying dive and now Oris have honoured this great achievement by creating a special Carlos Coste Limited Edition Cenote Series watch. A standout edition to the Diver’s collection, the new Carlos Coste Limited Edition Cenote Series boasts a number of original features to highlight Coste’s incredible feat. The essential minute counter glows in the dark for ease of reading and to indicate the time spent under water; a triangle on the 2 minute position symbolises that Carlos would be reaching his own breath record of 2:30 minutes for a dynamic dive at this point, whilst a second triangle at the seven minute position highlights Carlos’s record of 7:30 minutes for holding his breath during a static dive. Designed in honour of a record breaker, the Oris Carlos Coste Limited Edition Cenote Series is the ultimate performance accessory. Oris Swiss Hunter Team PS Edition In 1994, Switzerland’s iconic “Patrouille Suisse” (PS) Hunter planes were withdrawn from the Swiss Air Force to the dismay of their many avid supporters worldwide. Since then, many military aviation enthusiasts have campaigned to “Save the Patrouille Suisse-Hunter”. The campaign is lead by the Swiss Hunter Team, the Patrouille Suisse fan club, the Oris watch factory and all those who have a passion for vintage aircrafts. In support of the campaign, Oris has developed three Oris Swiss Hunter Team PS Edition watches, and will financially support the Swiss Hunter Team to maintain the Patrouille Suisse Hunter plane. Each Swiss Hunter Team PS Edition boasts Oris’s characteristic quality Swiss automatic mechanical movement and subtly blends aviation features and Swiss detailing. In honour of the revered PS Hunter, the dial is inspired by cockpit instruments, and as with all Oris aviation watches, the Hunter Team PS Edition features the original big crown, which is easy to reset even when wearing aviation gloves. The Swiss Cross on the counter balance of the second hands on both the male and female versions of the watch, and the official logo of the Swiss Hunter Team on the case backs, give these three models a clear and resplendent Swiss identity.
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Oris BC3 Air Racing Limited Edition 2010 marked a historic milestone for the Oris Big Crown Air Racing Team, as it saw them competing at the legendary Reno Air Races in Nevada, USA, for the very fist time. Team pilot Don Vito Wypraechtiger was the first ever Swiss man to qualify for this prestigious event and placed 2nd in the Formula Gold Race at his first attempt. To honour this great achievement, Oris have created a special BC3 watch limited to 1000 pieces. The design of the Oris BC3 Air Racing Limited Edition is inspired by the team’s race plane the “Scarlet Screamer”. The case is made of light titanium and weighs 40 percent less than steel. It has an additional 24 hour hand to show the time in a second time zone, another important feature for pilots. The red airplane shaped pointer for the second time zone hand also relates to the colour and design of the “Scarlet Screamer”. The watch features a practical screw down crown and water resistance to 10bar/100m, making it a real watch for real pilots. The covetable watch comes as a set including a special BC3 Air Racing box, a replacement rubber strap, tools for the bracelet change and a limited edition certificate. The Oris Big Crown Air Racing Team has conquered the skies of Reno and the BC3 Air Racing Limited Edition is set to win over pilots and watch aficionados alike. Oris Artelier Skeleton with Diamonds After the success of the Artelier Skeleton model for men, Oris launches a stunning diamond encrusted 31mm timepiece for ladies. This season, Swiss Mechanical watch brand Oris are set to debut the Artelier Skeleton for ladies. A chic and timeless addition to the Oris Artelier family, this skeleton is the perfect watch for anyone that appreciates that style should be built to last. The dazzling Artelier Skeleton comes complete with 56 delicate 0.50 carat diamonds set into the top ring and 10 diamonds set on the dial ring. The movement is decorated with subtle Louis XIV style engravings and visible through the sapphire crystal. Oris have also made a feature of the intricate mechanical workings and movement of the covetable watch; omitting the inner face to reveal the unsurpassed craftsmanship beneath. Exuding class and quality, the sophisticated new Artelier Skeleton with diamonds is a beautiful and functional accessory that will remain a girl’s best friend for life.
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Oris Divers Mid-Size The result of extensive research and collaborative thinking, the Oris Divers Mid-Size is a fully functional watch series that doesn’t compromise on style, and is as at home in the urban jungle as it is deep beneath the waves. A well proportioned mid-size watch, this new model is robust enough to meet the demands of even the most advanced diver, whilst retaining a sport-luxe fashion edge which makes it the ultimate all-rounder. Five models will be available, each with a distinctive feminine feel. Choose from ceramic or steel top rings and diamond encrusted or smooth dials, in black or white. The strap comes in pliable black or white rubber and is easy to adjust thanks to the folding buckle. The watch also boasts Oris’s characteristic crown protection with the use of the standard 3 leg screws.
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RADO BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Big is BeautifulRADO R
enowned for quality, innovation and impeccable precision, Rado is one of the foremost watchmakers from Switzerland. The company has been producing watches since 1957 from top-quality ceramics and diamonds, often breaking moulds to stay ahead of competition. Rado took the watch industry by storm at BaselWorld 2011 with its unique and path-breaking novelties.
RADO r5.5 XXL Chronograph Design has always been at the heart of Rado, from the watches they produce to the support they give to up and coming talent with their Radostar Prize and website radostar.com. Following close on the success of Rado r5.5, the company has launched the watch in a much bigger size. The Rado r5.5 is a result of shared vision, passion and innovation as Rado partnered with the like-minded British industrial designer, Jasper Morrison, to produce it. This partnership continued with the development of the r5.5 XXL, a design timepiece for people living life in big. Without compromising on the core style values of the r5.5, this XXL collection has an extra size quartz chronograph movement. Made entirely from high-tech ceramics, case and bracelet seamlessly join together.
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Sharp white indexes and hands highlight the sleek dial of the r5.5 XXL black matt, which is nestled under the sapphire crystal glass. Also available in platinum matt, a stunning grey matt finish for high-tech ceramics which shows once again Rado’s expertise in this high-tech material The fine yellow hands on the brushed platinum dial gives this timepiece a sporty and original look. The r5.5 XXL Chronograph, a true design piece set to enhance this already highly acclaimed r5.5 collection. Rado True Thinline The Swiss watchmaker is all set to revolutionise the globe with its new line: Rado True Thinline, the world’s thinnest high-tech ceramic watch. To create this new ultra thin structure, all components have been intensively reworked to ensure they are fully integrated, including the quartz movement that is exclusive to Rado. Demanding and challenging in its manufacture, the Rado True Thinline offers all the key properties of high-tech ceramics, such as luxurious comfort and strength, as well as adding a new dimension of being lightweight to the extreme. With its simple and elegant case the collection features clear gold coloured indexes, replaced by diamonds on the Jubilé version, all accentuated by the fully integrated sapphire crystal of the dome. The case and buckle, both in high-tech ceramics, fit perfectly into the sublimely integrated rubber bracelet. Rado goes white Rado first started producing white high-tech ceramic watches back in the 90’s. Classic, tasteful and chic, white is the colour to be seen in 2011. Whether it’s from head to toe or just one item, this definite colour adds a touch of elegance and refinement to any outfit. And so now, bang on trend, Rado has created new versions in white to selected ranges.
The Rado Integral, a refined beauty – in white and gold or silver, a combination of understated luxury with a classical design, along with all the benefits of high-tech ceramics. The Rado Ceramica White with its silver or gold metallization dials is a distinguished statement piece as it uses its immaculate appearance to highlight all the gorgeous elements of the watch. The Rado Centrix White represents elegance with clarity and a touch indulgent with diamonds on the dial. Crisp and clean, the shape and style deliver a watch that feels open, usable yet still highly desirable. The Rado D-Star collection is a modern interpretation of the iconic and the highly acclaimed Rado DiaStar. The distinctive faceted case and wide open dial gives the watch a personality of its own, thoroughly modern with a sportive touch.
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BE L L & R O S S BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
B
ell & Ross was launched in 1992 through a close collaboration with German watchmaker Sinn. The watches were designed by the company’s founders Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo. Many of the designs for the watch were taken from the cockpits of fighters planes across the entire 20th century. The founders soon made a name for themselves and by 2002 became independent, with their own production facility at Chatelain in Chaux des Fonds, Switzerland. AIRBORNE Created in 2009, the BR 01 AIRBORNE model paid tribute to the military paratroopers, especially the US
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Airborne divisions that played such a distinguished role in the Second World War. Rubbing shoulders with danger on a daily basis, the young soldiers had adopted the skull and crossbones as a symbol of their courage to better defy death and intimidate their enemies. The skull and crossbones acted as a talisman during their missions and a continual reminder of how vulnerable they were to danger. At BaselWorld Bell&Ross showcased two new limited edition models of this talisman watch - the BR 01 AIRBORNE II and the BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE. The new BR 01 AIRBORNE and BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne are both distinguished by their finishes, but are
Sheer grit and perfection–
BELL&ROSS BR 01 AIRBORNE II The BR 01 AIRBORNE sports an aged steel case, giving the original model the character and appearance of a watch which has acquired a patina over time. This ‘rifle barrel’ finish is achieved by repeated random rubbings. This technique, which in no way alters the material, makes each piece unique.The crystal, marked with a ‘jaw’ index transferred onto the underside, and the brown leather strap, tanned like old leather with tone-on-tone stitching, gives this watch its inimitable style.
also consistent with the Airborne’s military symbol. They share the same inspiration, shape and expression: The watch’s bezel and screws delineate a skull with crossbones that is perfectly integrated into the square shape of the brand’s iconic case. The single-color ‘phantom black’ dial conjures up the symbolic colour of death and sports the face of a seemingly - defiant skull and crossbones. The dagger – or sword-shaped hands, depending on the model, further evoke designs borrowed from military art. The BR 01 AIRBORNE II and BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE emphasise more than ever the talisman spirit of the original model and its symbolic function.
BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE The BR 01 TOURBILLON AIRBORNE is an outstanding time instrument, a combination of military symbolism and an exclusive fine watchmaking movement. It incorporates four additional watchmaking complications that blend perfectly into the skull and crossbones dial: a tourbillon, a precision indicator, a regulator and a power reserve indicator. Clearly visible in its carriage positioned at 6 o’clock on the main timepiece, the tourbillon is the most noble of watchmaking complications. It compensates for measuring differences caused by Earth’s gravity when wrist movements rotate or accelerate, thereby improving the running precision of the watch. The sophistication of this mechanism is truly a technical innovation that has called upon all the skills of in-house engineers and the cream of Swiss masterwatchmakers.
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C H A R IOL BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
R
enowned for the iconic cable design, Charriol has been at the forefront of innovative craftsmanship and the marriage of tradition with modernity. Philippe Charriol started the company in 1983, which soon got acclaim around the world. Started in Geneva, Switzerland, the brand features fascinating watches, jewellery and lifestyle accessories. As the designer says, the Charriol collection inspires ‘the art of living differently’ or L’art de vivre la difference. The luxury Swiss brand was present at BASELWORLD 2011 with the novelties for the year ahead. A new production process is renewing the aesthetic design of the cable bracelet: the wires made of steel (or rather from an exclusive steel and titanium alloy) are braided so as to form a series of oblique shapes, and when the cables are juxtaposed in alternating directions, they form a herringbone motif. Watches and accessories made from this were showcased at the luxury watches and jewellery fair.
Charriol–the Cable Connection CELTIC The new CELTIC watches, representing the fourth generation of the original model which has become a brand icon, were presented in two sizes with a diameter of 26 and 38 millimetres and powered by a quartz movement. The new Celtic watches are the first collection to be adorned with the new herringbone bracelets. The round cases, topped by a bezel featuring eight gadroons, are steel or two-toned with a gold PVD treatment. The cable integrated around their circumference is always in raw steel. The range also includes jewellery versions set with 32 diamonds. The hours and minutes, or hours, minutes, seconds and date, are displayed on white or black dials enlivened with Arabic or Roman numerals or hour-markers. Some variations in genuine mother-of-pearl are graced with zircon hour-markers.
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Both cases are secured by a patented Charriol clasp when smaller version is fitted with a brand new five-row cabled bracelet, and the larger one with a six-row model. PARASII Parisii by Charriol features the latest steel watch collection. The term PARISII originally referred to Celtic people that lived on the site of what is now the city of Paris and gave the latter its name. The PARISII watch features a round steel case framed by a deep and harmoniously designed cabled motif interrupted only by four Geneva lugs. The crown itself is enhanced by a slender cabled motif. Available in two highly contemporary sizes measuring 42 mm for the Large model and 33 mm for the Small counterpart. The steel case is topped by a bezel in either steel or black ceramics, while the sapphire crystal is glareproofed for enhanced readability. All models are powered by a Swiss-made quartz movement with central seconds hand and the date. Resolutely understated despite an abundance of original yet unostentatious details, the finely crafted and exquisitely finished PARISII watch admirably reflects an era distinguished by a quest for reliable values and for authentic, affordable and enduring luxury.
two levels, the crown bearing the logo and the ornamental arcs on either side of the case. The steel lugs respectively carry the C logo at 12 o’clock and the Charriol name spelt out at 6 o’clock. The brand’s signature Celtic spirit is echoed in the rubber strap with its six-row cabled motif. This sporty 44 mmdiameter watch features a variety of strongly contrasting dials, including white mother-of-pearl and Kevlar counters or black guilloché and white Mother-of-pearl counters.
CELTICA This powerful quartz-driven model is a chronograph equipped with calendar functions. The date in the Celtica is displayed by a central hand, and the day and month through windows. The black PVD-coated bezel is enhanced by steel or pink gold-plated inserts on one or 69 69
S war ov sk i BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1 70
Shine on S
warovski entered the watchmaking arena recently. For a new comer, the brand has been doing extremely well. Swarovski watches feature amazing design and are ahead of their time in styling and the use of their trademark crystals. At BASELWORLD this year, Swarovski launched the first men’s collection of watches and also added to their existing range of eclectic watches.
SWAROVSKI A debut – Men’s collection After presenting its first collection of men’s jewelry and accessories in 2010, the next obvious step for the Austrian company, a leader in the field of cut crystal for 116 years, was to launch a collection of watches entirely for men. The “Piazza Grande” for men is inspired by the bestselling “Piazza” style, which was introduced when the first Swarovski watch collection was launched at Baselworld 2009. This distinctive watch, with its large 42 mm diameter, exemplifies purity of line. Within the classic ring of the watch face, the metallic hand-applied Swarovski Swan Logo Mark, takes its place at the top of the dial. The handapplied indices are set off by a discreet clear crystal at each hour marker, and punctuated at six o’clock with an indicator that displays the date with perfect clarity. Perfectly circular and featuring a sunray pattern, the silvercolored heart of the dial bears faceted hands that count each hour, minute and second. On its right side, the hand-polished cylindrical case is adorned with decorative elements in scratch-proof black ceramic, which is faceted using true Swarovski expertise. The crown is also created in ceramic and features 24 facets, a real feat of technical prowess when working with such a tough material. For those appreciative of modern elegance, the watch is available with a dark brown strap in genuine leather complete with a crocodile embossed structure. It is tastefully completed by a stainless steel ardillon buckle featuring the Swarovski name. Alternatively, for a sportier, casual look, there is also the brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet which naturally extends from the faceted lugs.
The bracelet features a push-button clasp. Faithful to the maxim laid down by company founder Daniel Swarovski, “always improve that which is already good”, Swarovski pushes the limits of perfection by integrating a mechanical Swiss watch movement with automatic winding into six of the ‘Piazza Grande’ models. An outstanding timepiece, the automatic model features a 43 mm stainless steel case to protect its precious movement. Rounded and refined, this piece once again allows us to truly appreciate the sobriety of the design. Its black dial, with sunray-patterned center and opaline edging, serves to highlight the Arabic numerals. A striking satin polished finish is applied by hand at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, alternating with polished and faceted indices. The date indicator is placed at 4.30. The highly technical half-skeleton hour and minute hands are luminescent, making the watch perfectly legible during both the day and night. Particular attention has been paid to the two decorative elements and crown situated at 3 o’clock on the stainless steel case. Encased in scratch-proof, faceted black ceramic each of these elements is a true example of Swarovski’s technical prowess. Their unique design conveys an avant-garde style combining timeless classicism and modernity. For those intrigued by the movement, the back of the case is a scratch-resistant sapphire watch glass that allows you to admire the mechanical movement with its automatic winding, and in particular the rotor featuring a “Côtes de Genève” decoration. Mounted on a polished and brushed stainless steel bracelet featuring an elegant double push button clasp, the automatic “Piazza Grande” watch is contemporary, sporty and 100 meters water resistant.
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A fascinating collection Swarovski unveiled its third watch collection at BASELWORLD 2011. Set out in five main lines, the new collection is a breath of fresh air with three never-before-seen lines and many color versions. Sixteen new timepieces round off the 2011 Watches collection.
OCTEA CHRONO Purple The 2011 collection marks a new step for Swarovski with the introduction of the company’s first chronograph watch. Ever since its very first watch collection, Swarovski has made a name for itself alongside the biggest brands by adopting horological techniques to guarantee the best time precision. The ‘Octea Sport’ style provides the platform on which to bring
together all of the company’s Swiss watch-making expertise and to create a watch of optimal quality – the ‘Octea Chrono’. Design, innovation and precision are the bywords of Swarovski’s Watches collection. With its sporty and ultra-feminine style, the “Octea Chrono” is a perfect combination of elegance and originality. Its unidirectional rotating bezel, cut from a single piece of clear crystal, reveals the minutes in graduated purple tones upon a
sunray-patterned purple dial. The dial features three counters which indicate minutes, seconds and tenths of seconds. The second counter nestles within a circle of pavé crystals, giving the watch a truly chic and feminine touch. The notched crown features the Swan Logo Mark, which is protected by a glass cabochon, and, is flanked on either side by two push buttons that activate the ETA chronograph mechanism.
OCTEA SPORT White Ceramic From the new pieces for 2011, Swarovski has chosen its flagship “Octea Sport” watch from which to develop, with the company’s customary precision and legendary perfection, its first piece in faceted ceramic. A material loved by many watchmakers and jewelers for its durability and beauty, ceramic has fast become a symbol of immutable luxury. It offers new horizons for research and innovation, values close to Swarovski’s heart. Wholly created in white ceramic, cut from a single piece with a sunray pattern, the unidirectional rotating bezel presented a real challenge when it came to maintaining the high quality of Swarovski’s masterful work with cut crystal. Tone-on-tone, the lacquered white dial is adorned with the Swan Logo Mark at 12 o’clock, complemented by the handapplied index markers and Arabic numerals. In the center, protected by an anti-reflective and scratchproof sapphire watch glass, the second hand and the luminescent minute and hour hands sweep past the date window set at 3 o’clock.
OCTEA SPORT Ultra Khaki – Limited Edition Always creative when it comes to trends, Swarovski presents the Ultra Khaki version of its “Octea Sport” in a Limited Edition of just 3,333 pieces. The style will also be widely available in Ultra Blue. Revisiting the unidirectional rotating bezel, faceted in a sunray pattern and cut from a single block, the timepiece is adorned with magnificent Khaki Satin crystal. The watch features a sunray-patterned khaki dial, decorated watch face and date indicator at 3 o’clock, as well as the rhodiumplated, hand-applied indices and Arabic numerals. Only the silver-coloured, elegantly faceted hands stand out on this perfectly camouflaged watch, which plays on the sobriety of its monochrome khaki theme and subtle tone-on-tone design. The rubber strap has been recreated in khaki for this piece. Hand-set with six spectacular Khaki Satin crystals, it is completed with a stainless steel ardillon buckle. Engraved on the back of the watch case, the Swanflower® motif perfects the unique look of this piece, which is designed to be water resistant to 50 meters and features a Swiss ETA movement. 73
Elis Lady Previously launched in a miniature size and bangle style, the bestselling Elis line is back in 2011 with a more sizeable offering: the “Elis Lady”. Clearly influenced by Swarovski’s jewelry and accessories collections, “Elis Lady” plays the glamour card with a Crystal Mesh strap in three color versions – silver, black and gold. The dial, featuring matt edging, a sunray-patterned centre and crystals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, creates high shine with its flat, square pyramid form. Larger than the “Elis Mini”, this piece is styled for evening wear and would be perfect for a cocktail party. This watch has a sophisticated dial design, with a center in a satin-finish sunray pattern. The two-level dial has 4 indices, one marked by the Swan Logo Mark at 12 o’clock and the others by 3 hand-applied clear crystals. In all of this femininity and luxury, only the notched crown with its rounded cabochon quietly interrupts the architectural lines of this watch. The supreme finishing touch to this magnificent piece is the case back engraved with the Swanflower® motif, the fact that this watch is water resistant up to 30 meters, and the Swiss Made certification guaranteeing an internationally recognized watch movement. Rock n’ Light Mini The “Avant Time” concept was launched successfully in 2009 with the “D:Light” watch, expressing Swarovski’s vision of time, and the company’s constant striving towards the avant-garde. This concept has since been exemplified by the “Rock ’N’ Light” watch, now in its second incarnation. This exceptional watch was launched in 2010 in an XXL-sized Limited Edition, unique thanks to the striking watch case cut from a single block of crystal. “Rock ’N’ Light” returns this year with more classic dimensions. As impressive as ever, the whole watch case is created from a single block of clear Jet or Amethyst Satin crystal. Each one of the 32 facets and every edge of this square case reflects the light and shines with a thousand sparkles – the regular forms have been perfectly conceived and executed. With an architectural design featuring sober, efficient lines, this watch has a modern and dynamic femininity enhanced by the 12 cut crystals that adorn the bracelet. Purple tones appear throughout Swarovski’s 2010 collection, and this bold new version really makes the color its own. With a succession of horizontal and vertical lines, the polished stainless steel bracelet is punctuated by 12 faceted crystals in Amethyst Diamond Touch Light. The butterfly closure adds the finishing touch to this ultra-chic, supple and comfortable bracelet.
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Matching these 12 crystals, the matt purple dial features a purple sunray pattern in the centre and is adorned with 11 hand-applied crystals. The faceted hands regularly pass the Swan Logo Mark at 12 o’clock, which rests above the Swarovski signature and is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire watch glass. On the back of the case the Swanflower® motif can be seen, engraved alongside certain details: the Swiss Made certification, the watch’s water resistance up to a depth of 30 meters and the Swarovski name. OCTEA LADY BLUE The “Octea Lady” is back on the scene with a new key color – blue. Constantly ahead of the game when it comes to fashion, after the success of the purple version produced in 2010, Swarovski once again highlights the originality and scope of its color palette. Directly inspired by Swarovski’s iconic “Nirvana” ring, the faceted blue bezel of the watch is cut from a single piece of crystal. The “Octea Lady” Blue watch takes color use to the max with its bezel in Midnight Blue crystal. One of Swarovski’s smallest watches at just 32 mm in diameter, its size and rounded form make the piece ultra feminine. Its midnight blue tone echoes the navy blue of the “Octea Sport” Ultra Blue, in a more classic and timeless interpretation. The crystal bezel captures the eye with its color and faceting, playing with the contrast between curves and precise lines: to enhance this, the deep blue aventurine dial is studded with 11 clear crystals, applied by hand to form the indices. The simplicity of the dial serves to highlight the Swarovski signature below the metallic Swan Logo Mark, which appears at 12 o’clock and is also repeated under the glass cabochon of the notched crown. The subtle, faceted hands pass smoothly over the exquisite dial. The elegant silhouette of this piece is completed by the butterfly closure and the bracelet in polished and brushed stainless steel. The watch case is engraved on the back with the Swanflower® motif, the name of the design house, the Swiss Made certification and the fact that this decorative watch is water resistant up to 30 meters.
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R aym ond W e il BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
A Class Apart –
RAYMOND WEIL O
ne of the foremost
independent luxury watch brands in the industry, Raymond Weil, has unveiled the all new Moon Phase timepiece for its Maestro collection. The captivating watch belongs to the Maestro collection from Raymond Weil that was unveiled in 2010. The collection is among the brand’s most successful and fascinating watch collections. The all new Moon Phase from Raymond Weil for the Maestro collection features a RW4500, 28,800 A/h movement with complication module along with automatic winding. The watch comes with a 38 hours power reserve as well as a black leather alligator strap and an Ardillon buckle. This sensational new time piece is also water resistant to up to 140 meters. Also part of the Maestro collection launched this year is the Chronograph. The Maestro Chronograph comes is a slightly larger 41.5 mm diameter by 12.8 mm thick, stainless steel with rose gold 5N PVD finish case. The chronograph is powered by the RW4500 (moon phase) and RW5000 (chronograph) self-winding mechanical movements. The moon phase version has 26 jewels and a balance cadence of 28,800 vph (4Hz). The chronograph has 25 jewels, 46 hours of power reserve and a balance cadence of 28,800 vph (4Hz). Both watches have a sapphire crystal with dual-sided antireflective treatment, and sapphire crystal casebacks. While the moon phase is water-resistance is up to 50 meters, the chronograph is water resistant up to 100 metres. Raymond Weil has also created a limited edition 18-carat gold moon phase anniversary piece that retails for $10,000. The company will manufacture only 350 of these watches, as a tribute to the company’s three-and-a-half decades in the horology business.
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R aym ond W e il BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Over 35 Years Of History -
RAYMOND WEIL C
reativity, watchmaking know-how, accessibility and above all, independence: through the years, the RAYMOND WEIL dynasty has been inventing and boldly reinventing itself, while still preserving the DNA of its original success.
If know-how is handed down traditionally from generation to generation, then so is the passion for watchmaking! Don’t be fooled by appearances, RAYMOND WEIL, which has experienced an exceptional and constant expansion for more than 35 years on the international markets with its undeniable Swiss Made quality, is a family affair. Today, Elie and Pierre Bernheim, the 3rd generation, have joined their father, the son-in-law of Raymond Weil, Olivier Bernheim, as directors, becoming in their turn the guardians of an exceptional heritage. Thus the family structure is imposing its style with a human face in the jungle of a highly competitive market; and behind the family spirit lies an extraordinary vision of performance. In 35 years and with the arrival of two successive generations, RAYMOND WEIL, founded in 1976 by
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its originator of the same name, has been able to evolve with the times. The evolution of its product range with the introduction of new, more sophisticated, mechanical models, the reinforcement of the lower end collections and the broadening of the communication strategy, as well as the creation of the RW Club (the first club to be developed by a watch brand) are some of the Brand’s success factors. Like musicians who assemble musical notes into a work of harmony, the four members of the RAYMOND WEIL “clan” each knew how to compose as a team and each in his own right. At the very beginning in 1976, M. Raymond Weil dared to claim his independence and created his own brand in the middle of a watch industry crisis. In 1982, Olivier Bernheim, Raymond Weil’s son-in-law, joined the company and became its Managing Director and General Manager in 1996. His dynamism, his entrepreneurial and visionary spirit and his demonstrated sense of aesthetics enabled the Swiss watchmaking company to develop internationally, while still preserving its family identity. In this connection, in 1999, he founded the Research and
Development Department, which invented many of Raymond Weil’s own innovations. In 2006, the family company proudly celebrated its 30th anniversary with the arrival of the third generation at the helm, Elie and Pierre Bernheim. For the Brand’s partners, family continuity is a measure of equilibrium, stability and continuity. However, the younger generation with its fresh ambitions also incarnates renewal: a new visual identity, a new approach to luxury and the use of new technologies. The RW Club was thus created and provides an exclusive, unique and privileged service to RAYMOND WEIL clients. Art is at the centre of the RAYMOND WEIL universe. The Swiss watchmaker is imposing itself as the orchestra conductor with collections named after the most famous operas, the creation of one of the main photography competitions, the RAYMOND WEIL International Photography Prize, and a vocation as sponsor in the art milieu. In 2011, RAYMOND WEIL thus combines 35 years of history and is celebrating its ruby anniversary with the world of luxury watchmaking. The ruby, one of the most precious stones, represents victory, love, happiness (good fortune) and the passion of a family that has built one of the greatest empires of human proportions. RAYMOND WEIL in Oman is represented by Oman Marketing and Services Company (Omasco) and has an exclusive Raymond Weil boutique in the Sabco Mall. Q&A with Oliver Bernheim, President & CEO of RAYMOND WEIL Genève The famous Parsifal line recently celebrated its 20th birthday. On this occasion, RAYMOND WEIL launched three new models. What else did the visitors get to see at your booth in BASELWORLD 2011? Precision, quality, reliability, nobility and technical nature of the materials are the standards that the brand combines to create its new models: all elements of excellence of the Swiss luxury watchmaking industry. During the show, RAYMOND WEIL introduced two new lines to its exclusive partners: the Maestro collection and a brand new female line: the Jasmine collection.
The Maestro collection demonstrates the profound attachment of the family Weil-Bernheim to their horological roots and their desire to offer the end-consumer classical pieces. The various models soberly explore the one thousand and one ways of interpreting harmony, discretion and classicism. With a new moon phase and a chronograph, maestro plays its part in today’s passage of time. The Maestro Lady, with a mechanical movement, offers a new way of combining technicality and subtle aesthetics to women. Tell us about the Jasmine? The Jasmine line dedicated to modern and active women combines and characterises the RAYMOND WEIL’s feminine products: delicate curves, sparkling diamonds and flawless elegance. Available in 29 and 35 mm, with mechanical or quartz movement, the new feminine timepiece combines modernity and exclusivity for women who are at the cutting edge of the trend. With the opening of several new stores worldwide, RAYMOND WEIL had a very successful year in 2010. Tell us about your plans for 2011 and new markets? RAYMOND WEIL’s upcoming developments worldwide, particularly in China and India, include new boutiques and shop in shops opening that enhance market visibility, while offering refined luxury timepieces with the highest Swiss horological heritage at attractive prices in a unique and dedicated brand environment. What role does BASELWORLD play in RAYMOND WEIL’s personal success story? BASELWORLD benefits from an exceptional influence. All watch and jewellery market players worldwide gather once a year to this ideal place. It is the yearly RAYMOND WEIL upbeat, where the new collections are unveiled to our professional partners and to the most important press contacts. RAYMOND WEIL’s personal success story is made of passion and willingness. BASELWORLD provides us with tools to materialise this passion on the field.
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OM E G A BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Expert timekeeper - OMEGA
O
mega has been manufacturing unrivalled Swiss timepieces since 1848. The renowned brand was at BASELWORLD 2011. We present two of their outstanding designs for this year. Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 The OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 is the dramatic next step in the revolution in mechanical watchmaking that started in 1999 with OMEGA›s launch of the Co-Axial escapement. Not only does the new movement deliver superb timekeeping performance, it is the first of OMEGA›s exclusive inhouse Co-Axial calibres to incorporate a chronograph function. The innovative column-wheel chronograph has 12hour and 60-minute counter hands placed on the same subdial at 3 o›clock. This familiar arrangement of the hands, which recalls the hour and minute hands on the main dial, enables intuitive reading of the chronograph. It also has a central chronograph seconds hand and a small seconds hand on the sub-dial at 9 o›clock. The two chronograph control pushers function
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totally independently – accordingly, there is no risk to the chronograph mechanism as a result of inadvertent manipulation. Like OMEGA›s other in-house Co-Axial movements, the calibre 9300/9301 features a decorative pattern known as «Côtes de Genève in Arabesque». The movement›s time zone function means that the hour hand can be set without stopping the watch, an especially useful feature for travellers. It is also equipped with a silicon balance spring. Silicon is non-magnetic so it is not influenced by magnetic fields. This quality combined with the excellent resilient coefficient of silicon allows the balance springs, which are etched on a silicon wafer, to deliver improved chronometric performance. Silicon also has a very low fatigue influence and ages slowly. The outstanding reliability delivered by the combination of Co-Axial technology and the silicon balance spring is such that OMEGA delivers its CoAxial watches equipped with silicon balance springs
with a full four-year warranty. OMEGA›s Co-Axial escapement OMEGA›s launch of the Co-Axial escapement in 1999 put the horological world on notice. It was the first practical new watch escapement to be invented in some 250 years. The components in OMEGA›s Co-Axial escapement differ considerably from those of the Swiss lever escapement which had long been the industry’s mainstay: it consists of a balance roller carrying a pallet and an impulse pin, an anchor with three pallets, and a three-level coaxial escapement wheel comprising the co-axial wheel, the co-axial pinion and the transmission pinion, with which it is connected to the intermediary wheel and the gear train. The Co-Axial advantages The main advantages of this design become clear when it is compared with the Swiss lever escapement. With any watch escapement, energy must be transmitted to the oscillator; this energy maintains
the oscillator’s frequency. The impulses in a Swiss lever escapement involve the wheel tooth sliding along the inclined surface of the pallet. This sliding movement generates considerable friction, making optimal lubrication vital if the escapement is to function correctly. In contrast, the OMEGA Co-Axial escapement transmits energy using lateral impulses. The smaller contact surfaces and the pushing motion, as opposed to the lever escapement’s sliding motion, significantly reduce the friction in the escapement; thus there is less wear and tear on the lubrication, resulting in longer service intervals. Both clockwise and anti-clockwise impulses in a Swiss lever escapement are delivered indirectly from the escapement wheel through the anchor to the balance roller, resulting in an important loss of energy. The OMEGA Co-Axial escapement’s clockwise impulse is given directly to the pallet on the balance roller by the teeth of the escapement wheel. As a result, the CoAxial escapement benefits from greater mechanical efficiency which ensures more stable precision.
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C HOPA R D BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Jewelled temptations–
Chopard Jewellery Haute Joaillerie In recent years, Chopard has been infusing the world of Haute Joaillerie with a free-spirited and original approach, giving free rein to the imagination and focusing on the development of unique works of art composed using exceptional and unusual stones. This quest for masterful perfection, combined with the inventiveness of its creations and the perfection of their execution, has earned the Geneva-based company a premier position in the field of jewellery-making.
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Animal fantasy The bear was the unanimous choice of the latest jewellery collection from Chopard as it represents life and light. The Geneva-based brand interprets these adorable creatures in countless different ways designed to adorn women. Following Chopard’s success of their Haute Joaillerie collection, Animal World in 2010 which was part of their 150th anniversary. Today, the brand continues this adventure by focusing on a bear cub, a figure that evokes many different emotions relating to childhood and to the joy of living. Rings, pendants, ear motifs and bracelets: These new creations are exquisitely delicate by nature, while incorporating Chopard signature features such as the famous Happy Diamonds. The jewellery models are crafted exclusively in polished or diamond-set rose gold and white gold. The brilliant-pavé models are further enhanced by fine gemstones such as onyx and tourmaline – depending on the gold colour – forming the nose and eyes of the bear cub motif.
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Sweet delights Springtime heralds a time of vibrant colours and delectable surprises. Eager to chase away the dull grey shades of winter, Chopard has created an exquisitely colourful Haute Joaillerie collection. In this festival of gold, diamonds and precious multi-coloured gemstones, the jeweller has devoted its expertise to a “demystified”, readyto-wear form of luxury. The tantalizing result is a set of virtually irresistible temptations… World of Happiness Chopard’s latest offering is a lighter, yet ever exquisite version of its iconic Happy Diamonds. Visions of slender hearts or precious circles - yellow, rose or white gold circles polished or set with precious diamonds. This menagerie of luxury, all motioning together, creates the spectacle that is the famous floating diamonds. These radiantly joyful yet discreet pieces will glitter in splendour on the neck, wrist, ears or fingers of the women who are lucky enough to love them. Suspended from a fine gold chain or a delicate silk cord, the pendants will gently caress the feminine neckline. Equally entrancing are the bracelets, earrings and subtle gold rings that support the tiny hearts or circles which capture the natural glow of the women wearing them. The playful and mischievous Miss Happy jewellery pieces exude a vivacious and a contagiously joyful attitude to life. Complementing women of every age and lending a brilliantly refined and elegant touch.
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MIKIMOTO BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Treasures of the sea MIKIMOTO T
rusted and precious, Mikimoto is among the highly acclaimed names in the world of pearls. The brand’s founder, Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl over a century ago. His quest for perfection and his love for these pure, lustrous gems of the sea were the guiding forces that built the house of Mikimoto. The brand has gone on to become the foremost producer of the finest quality cultured pearls and a leading name for exceptional jewelry. Mikimoto pearls are referred to as hanadama, or ‘flower pearls’, which denotes the highest quality pearls. The defining factors of beauty in a pearl include not only colour and shape and smoothness of surface, but also lustre, and that mysterious quality known as ‘nacre thickness’, or the thickness of the pearl layers. Mikimoto’s experts apply internationally renowned standards in selecting the finest. They perceive the minute individual differences that make each pearl unique. A Mikimoto necklace in particular must be a symphony of spheres, never complete until it is tuned precisely. The brand showcased a scintillating collection at BASELWORLD 2011. As always, Mikimoto did not fail to stun with its new magnificent designs.
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Charriol BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Cabled Sophistication CHARRIOL JEWELLERY M
arylin Jewels collection The Marilyn collection - pendants, earrings and rings - is based on cabled rings lit up by zircons. Silver-plated or rose gold PVD versions underscore its more sophisticated personality. Ring, earrings and necklaces come in stainless steel rose pink PVD cable and palladium plated brass set with zircons. Starlites Jewels collection The Starlites collection - comprising a necklace, earrings and a bracelet - setting the stage for compositions of chains adorned with cabled circles. They come in steel or two-tone versions with yellow gold PVD treatment. The collection includes bracelet, earrings and necklace.
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CARRERA Y CARRERA BASELWORLD 2011
Magic of the sea–
CARRERA Y CARRERA C
arrera y Carrera, the Spanish jewellery house renowned for its fashionable an eclectic designs launched a scintillating line at BASELWORLD 2011. Called Mediterraneo, the collection takes its inspiration from the magic and enchantment of tales of the sea. The designers of the collection takes you through time and space to a place where young deities and beautiful nymphs walk among on the shores of a warm peaceful sea. The collection features innovative designs mixed with exceptional gold craftsmanship and glimmering diamonds. The elegance of the sea-nymph Actaea is reflected in the sumptuous lines of two Nautilus rings, in yellow and white gold with diamond; the voluptuousness of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, is expressed in an opulent pendant and ring, both in yellow gold with rose-cut diamond. The beauty of the sea-nymph Calypso is represented by a white gold and diamond ring shaped like a seashell. Finally, Athene, the goddess of wisdom, inspires a line including a ring, choker and earrings in white and yellow gold decorated with starfish. 91
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V E RT U BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
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reated for those who demand only the best, Vertu is one of the most luxurious phone and lifestyle accessories companies. Each phone from Vertu is a masterpiece – designed with diligence and handcrafted painstakingly with often one craftsman working on a single phone. The Vertu collection that was showcased at BaselWorld 2011 was breathtaking and outstanding. A look at the top novelties from Vertu this year… Signature The Vertu Signature is the most highly crafted phone ever made. The culmination of a decade of Vertu knowledge, passion and experience, quite simply, it is a phone without equal. To create such an exceptional phone, Vertu has used only the very finest materials. The ‘sea of sapphire’ that makes up the face of Signature takes more than two weeks to create in a 2000°C furnace. It is almost impossible to scratch and is so hard that it must be cut, ground and polished
Only for Connoisseurs
with diamond-tipped tools. The solid gold or platinum Signature phones are authenticated by a Swiss Assay Office hallmark – the only electronic product to carry this prestigious seal. Furthermore, the patented keypad contains 4.75 carats of solid ruby bearings, each cut and set in its exact place like a jewel. Beautiful as well as functional, the SIM drawer is engraved with a unique Vertu pattern, a piece of jewellery in its own right. The highly engineered battery cover release is operated by a D-ring – extremely secure, yet easily released with your fingertips. Ruby bearings beneath each key slide on pure sapphire crystal surfaces that are aligned so that no part of the metal key touches the sapphire face of the phone. The result is no friction, no wear, and the world’s most satisfying click – a Signature trademark. “Signature uses function to create beautiful form,” says Frank Nuovo, Principal Designer, Vertu.
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Hand built in England and assembled by a single craftsman, it takes many years to learn the necessary skills. As a mark of pride and commitment to quality, each handset is signed by the craftsman who creates it. Inevitably such attention to detail means a phone of this quality can only be made in very limited numbers, making Signature rare, precious and highly exclusive. Constellation Quest Vertu’s first smartphone, Constellation Quest, has been created to seamlessly complement and enhance a discerning lifestyle. This unique qwerty device combines an unparalleled luxury services offering with the latest business tools, presented with Vertu’s unmatched attention to detail in design and materials. Constellation Quest has been designed with the user experience first and foremost in mind, creating a smartphone that is a pleasure to use. The home screen is uncluttered, displaying only the essentials as chosen by the customer. These may include email notifications, calendar appointments and selected news feeds. Also featured is a Vertu design signature – an analogue clock – which automatically adjusts to the user’s location. The whole user experience is one designed to be effortless and intuitive. Constellation Quest performs on all levels, not only in terms of material performance and unparalleled customer services but also in terms of its technical specification. Constellation Quest is a truly global product with multiband GSM, 3G and HSPA coverage. Combined with hi-speed WLAN, Constellation Quest keeps the user
connected wherever they are in the world. User memory is 40 GB ensuring plenty of storage of documents and images whilst on the move. Constellation Quest features a high resolution and high contrast VGA screen for clarity of viewing; the handset also features a video output jack for larger viewing of films, images, presentations and emails. Other technical specifications include Bluetooth®, free global maps and navigation with Assisted GPS, high quality acoustics and optimised speaker, uplink noise reduction and an FM radio. Vertu has once again commissioned special ring tones for Constellation Quest. Composed and conducted by Ivor Novello Award nominee Benjamin Wallfisch and performed by the London Symphony Orchestra, all ringtones and alerts have been specifically crafted for this phone. Constellation Ayxta Constellation Ayxta is the first fold phone within the Vertu portfolio, providing a highly engineered and mechanically advanced solution for luxury mobile phone users who prefer this form factor. Highlighting Vertu’s design excellence, Vertu Constellation Ayxta displays clean lines and subtle detailing with accents of the Vertu V shape throughout. 95
Constellation Ayxta use a hinge mechanism that has been painstakingly engineered to perfection. Consisting of 23 parts combining 10 different materials, the hinge is extremely resilient to wear and incorporates ruby bearings for a beautiful finish. This sits alongside the brand’s signature use of pioneering materials: polished ceramic, leather, sapphire crystal, stainless steel and aerospace grade aluminium. Constellation Ayxta is available in a number of leather colours and finishes, with keypads of stainless steel, ceramic or sapphire crystal. Continuing an attention to detail that is unmatched in mobile phone manufacture and using a technique first seen on the original Constellation handset, each number and letter on the keypad is created by drilling tiny holes. Each of these is then filled with clear resin to allow the illumination from beneath to be seen. Sapphire crystal coverings are also used for the phone’s camera and flash lenses, rendering both highly scratch resistant and therefore of exceptional clarity. Constellation Ayxta also features GPS and mapping capability, access to email and an expandable memory. Ascent Conceived, designed and inspired by icons of power, speed, performance and technologies such as stealth, Ascent uses extreme design and enhanced features to complement a fast-paced lifestyle. Commenting on the design of the phone, Frank Nuovo, Principal Designer said, “The new Ascent design is an extreme expression within the heart
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of the Vertu Collection. The highly structural, linear and faceted nature of the design is hard edged and without compromise of character.” Taking its expertise in materials and pushing it to the limit, Vertu deployed aerospace grade aluminium for the first time in the engineering of their full handset casings. Combined with the continued use of titanium for casings, this presents two variants of Ascent, each with a very different character, both offering exceptional performance to the customer. A material with very specific characteristics, aluminium delivers strength as well as lightweight performance. The casings of aluminium Ascent handsets are heat treated in a process known as precipitation hardening, producing microscopic changes in the aluminium which can double the strength of the alloy. Further enhancing these properties, the parts are then anodised – a process which transforms the surface, creating a layer five times harder than the raw material. An established material within the Vertu portfolio, Titanium has again been chosen for its exceptional strength to weight ratio. A nine stage forging process is used to create the Ascent casing, with the majority of these stages involving heating the metal to 860 degrees before applying 630 tonnes of pressure to mould the material. The structural forms within the design amplify the strength and nature of the materials whilst, staying true to its commitment to the most luxurious of finishes, the handsets are trimmed using either high-performance vulcanised rubber or leather.
Accessories Combining extensive work in design, engineering and craftsmanship, Vertu’s accessories collection has been developed to complement both the customer’s handset and their lifestyle. With styling and material influences taken from the products themselves, the accessories demonstrate Vertu’s commitment to the complete customer ownership experience.
Phone cases have been developed specifically for each product collection, with design cues and colour combinations chosen to directly mirror that of each phone variant. Desk stands have been developed for Signature and Constellation Quest featuring leather and complementary metals. Vertu’s V Collection includes a Bluetooth headset and ballpoint pen together with a collection of small leather goods. The headset has six hours talk-time which increases to a full 15 hours talk-time on the move, simply by reconnecting the headset to its fully charged base.
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CARAN D’ACHE BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Fine craftsmanship – Caran d’Ache C
aran d’Ache, Maison de Haute Écriture, extended its Artiste Collection, which includes Buddha, Ganesh and Shiva, with a Limited Edition devoted to the figure of Bala|ji. This new creation symbolises the perfection and beauty of the reincarnation of Vishnu. Balaji Limited Edition The Limited Editions of the Artiste Collection are truly exceptional pieces inspired by strongly symbolic themes such as oriental culture and the Gods. Created entirely by hand by Caran d’Ache craftsmen, this new addition pays homage to Balaji, the reincarnation of Vishnu in his supreme form. The personification of goodness, Balaji has the power to absolve all the sins of the world and to grant the prayers of the faithful who ask for his intervention. Under his other name of Venkateswara, he is one of the most venerated gods in the Hindu tradition and the object of a cult followed by millions of people who come each year to the famous temple of Tirupati, one of the most visited in the world. With its globally admired expertise, Caran d’Ache maintains the great tradition of Swiss manufacturing in its Limited Editions that infuses these exceptional pieces with a passion for excellence. To produce these models in the Artiste Collection, la Maison de Haute Écriture calls on the creativity of a famous artist whose work is brought to life by its craftsmen. For the Balaji Limited Edition, Caran d’Ache has called on the talents of Edouard Jud who created the previous pieces: Buddha, Ganesh and Shiva. The Master Jeweller has been to India to follow in the footsteps of Balaji and find inspiration in the unique atmosphere of the Tirupati temple that is visited by so many pilgrims.
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The Balaji Limited Edition comprises 108 fountain pens and 108 roller pens in solid 800 silver. 108 is a key number in Indian tradition and represents the 108 different names for Lord Balaji. This prestigious writing instrument is also available in a gold version with 10 fountain pens and 10 roller pens. Each piece is numbered and presented in a personalised black-lacquer box. With a unique blend of finesse and precision, the Balaji Limited Edition carries the image of the God not only on the external cages but also delicately sculpted on the clip. Under its cage, the precious writing instrument is covered with a deep black mat lacquer as a reference to the Balaji’s dark colour. His face is covered with a Tilak to protect the universe from the intensity of his eyes, a reminder of the strength of his divine power. The meticulous carving also reveals an open hand inviting the faithful to seek his protection. The Shanka, a sacred sea shell associated with Vishnu the Protector and a ritual object for calling on the Gods, is at his side, richly decorated and bearing a magnificent tiara. The monogram of the brand is visible through a transparent orange-pink cornelian, a variety of chalcedony. Specially chosen for its Indian origins, it is positioned on the tip of the cap in the silver model while the gold version of the writing instrument is crowned by a citrine.
Varius Ivanhoe Black Varius, the brand’s symbolic collection, is the product of many years’ passionate work on materials. Creating subtle alliances between daring and tradition, Caran d’Ache craftsmen explore all the expressions, all the variations in the material. Rich in contrasts and full of evocative echoes, the Varius is presented in precious or high-tech materials, natural or composite, that never fail to create astonishment. This pen is an outstanding example of the innovative use of materials. It was inspired by the armour worn by knights in the medieval era of chivalry and is named for one of them, a famously elegant conqueror. The body of the Varius Ivanhoe Black is covered in a micro-woven coat of mail in deep black stainless steel (a Milanese sheath). Using a highly advanced technology, Caran d’Ache craftsmen have treated the steel to receive a black PVD coating that is both strong and beautiful. This process colours the fundamental structure of the steel giving it an extraordinary fineness that will remain eternally unchanged. The rhodium finish of the other elements of the fountain pen provides a sparkle and a protection worthy of its rarity. A worthy successor to the famous Caran d’Ache Ivanhoe, the Varius Ivanhoe Black in its new livery proudly displays the virtues of chivalry: reliability, strength, loyalty and elegance.
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M on t e gr a ppa BA S E LW OR L D 2 0 1 1
Pen is mightier Montegrappa
O
ne of the oldest writing instruments makers, Montegrappa continues to thrill with fans with outstanding designs and innovations. A look at the distinctive brand’s profile who showcased creative brilliance at BASELWORLD 2011
Founded in 1912 as a “Manifattura pennini d’oro e penne stilografiche” (“Manufacturer of gold nibs and fountain pens”) during a turbu¬lent period in Italy’s history, Montegrappa was a by-product of the region’s social evolution. Just as the Industrial Revolution re-shaped society in the USA, in Great Britain, France, and other highly-developed nations, the transition from the 19th to the 20th Century was greeted in 100
Italy with changes in working conditions, especially a largescale move from the agrarian to the urban. Montegrappa – originally known as ELMO – benefitted from a pool of skilled local talent, able to create a workforce able to produce finely crafted objects, with style, with panache, and with a drive to achieve excellence. As a result of both its capable workforce and its location, the Bassano factory found itself, almost immediately after its opening, acquiring strategic importance during the World War I. Bassano would prove to be a key military position, and it would be marked by notable battles toward the end of the conflict. Among the many soldiers who used ELMO pens to write letters home were two celebrated American writers,
Ernest Hemingway and John Dos Passos, serving as war correspondents, and as volunteer ambulance drivers. Their elo¬quent and evocative communiqués sent from the front were recorded with the finely-pro¬duced writing implements made in Bassano. In the 1930s, Montegrappa flourished, enjoy¬ing a golden era now appreciated by collectors for the elegance of the manufactured goods of the day, from wristwatches to cufflinks, fine au¬tomobiles to tabletop radios. With use of the fountain pen having replaced dipping pens, the products of the house of Bassano met the taste of the public with sober yet graceful de¬signs, enhanced and personalized through the variety of their colors and materials. Montegrappa was among the first to use cel¬luloid, elevating it to the material of choice for superior pens. The company’s skilled crafts¬men were able to perfect the manufacturing process with original and precise technical so¬lutions, which served as the platforms for the artistry of the pens’ designers. Through the en¬suing decades, Montegrappa would produce numerous models, now highly collectible. Montegrappa pens also played their part in his¬tory, used to sign documents and treaties dur¬ing pivotal moments in the 20th Century. Famed Italian leaders including Victor Emmanuel III and Benito Mussolini used Montegrappa pens. Amongst the Russian leaders of the last part of the century, Boris Yeltsin gave his Dragon pen to Vladimir Putin on 2nd January 2000, and with this pen Yeltsin symbolically handed over his power. Russia’s President Dmitry Medve¬dev signs all official documents with the Mon¬tegrappa Extra 1930. Away from the world of politics, Montegrappa proved adept at creating limited edition writ¬ing instruments for calligraphers, fastidious collectors, and lovers of objets d’art. Hav¬ing consolidated its position as the premier manufacturer of luxury pens, Montegrappa produced pens commemorating events, lo¬cales, and individuals. Among the subjects embodied in Montegrappa writing instruments have been the America’s Cup, the town of St Moritz, La Fenice Opera House in Venice, Formula One Legend Ayrton Senna and many more. Most recently, Montegrappa has estab¬lished a series of pens that will yield elegant, portable tributes to the highpoints of its first century, the “Icons” models honoring cultural giants Muhammad Ali and Bruce Lee. Well-known enthusiasts for the brand include France’s President, Nicolas Sarkozy, one of a distinguished list of heads-of-state, popes, royalty, actors, musicians, artists, sportsmen, top models, writers and celebrities who have been proud owners of Montegrappa pens during its first century. Among them are Silvio Berlusconi, His Ho¬liness John Paul II, His Majesty King Juan Carlos of Spain, His Majesty King Hussein of Jordan, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit of Thai¬land, His Majesty Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei, Antonio Banderas, Al Pacino, Bill Cosby, Michael Schumacher, Jean Todt, Stir¬ling Moss, Zinedine Zidane, Michel Platini, Naomi Campbell, Paulo Coelho, and count¬less others. In 2010, the great racing driver Jean Alesi and actor, writer, and
director Syl¬vester Stallone became shareholders and board members, so deep is their affection for the brand. Montegrappa was acquired by the Richemont Group, one of the great world leaders in the field of luxury goods, in November 2000. During the period that followed, 20012005, the brand op¬erated initially under the aegis of Cartier, even¬tually being controlled by Montblanc. This brief foray was marked by a period of consolidation, culminating in a fortuitous event: in June 2009, the Aquila family reacquired Montegrappa, ef¬fectively – to paraphrase Bob Dylan – “bringing it all back home.” With a seamless transition from the interim period, Montegrappa has maintained its sta¬tus among pen aficionados, the steady flow of special editions exemplifying the company’s bond with writing enthusiasts. While its core range consists of classic models redolent of its illustrious past, especially the Extra 1930, the company has introduced models better suiting a clientele born after the invention of the computer and the word processor. With typically Italian savoir faire, Montegrap¬pa has grasped the notion that elegance has evolved into a new form, with its own language and conventions. Far removed from the stylistic pinnacles of the 1920s, 1930s and 1950s, when formality remained a key element, it segued into the relaxed chic of the 1960s and the 1980s. We still see those casual attitudes as dominant, but now ‘casual’ has its own traditions. Montegrappa has addressed this notion of a contemporary “lifestyle”, its original two-word definition possessing a more precise emphasis than the overused contraction, with a combina¬tion of all the qualities that were born of the Riv¬iera in the 1950s, of the chic clubs in Manhattan and Miami, of Golden Age Hollywood, of Rio and Paris and Milan. 101
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