Tuscany | www.crossbillguides.org by Crossbill Guides

CROSSBILL NATURE GUIDES

Tuscany ITALY

CROSSBILL GUIDES

Tuscany Italy

Crossbill Guides: Tuscany - Italy First print: 2024 Initiative, text and research: Graham Chisholm Editing: John Cantelo, Brian Clews, Kim Lotterman, Albert Vliegenthart Illustrations: Horst Wolter Maps: Alex tabak Type and image setting: Oscar Lourens Print: ORO grafic projectmanagement / PNB Letland ISBN 978-94-91648-34-2 This book is made with FSC-certified paper. The printing process is CO2-neutral through carbon-offsetting. To compensate for the CO2-emissions of the printing processes, we’ve invested in a reafforestation project plus nature conservation in Europe. For more information, scan the qr-code. You can find the certificate of the carbon-offset on our website under ‘downloads’ on the Tuscany guidebook page.

© 2024 Crossbill Guides Foundation, Arnhem, The Netherlands All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by print, photocopy, microfilm or any other means without the written permission of the Crossbill Guides Foundation. The Crossbill Guides Foundation and its authors have done their utmost to provide accurate and current information and describe only routes, trails and tracks that are safe to explore. However, things do change and readers are strongly urged to check locally for current conditions and for any changes in circumstances. Neither the Crossbill Guides Foundation nor its authors or publishers can accept responsibillity for any loss, injury or inconveniences sustained by readers as a result of the information provided in this guide. Published by Crossbill Guides in association with KNNV Publishing. SAXIFRAGA foundation

www.crossbillguides.org www.knnvpublishing.nl www.saxifraga.nl

CROSSBILL GUIDES FOUNDATION This guidebook is a product of the non-profit foundation Crossbill Guides. By publishing these books we want to introduce more people to the joys of Europe’s beautiful natural heritage and to increase the understanding of the ecological values that underlie conservation efforts. Most of this heritage is protected for ecological reasons and we want to provide insight into these reasons to the public at large. By doing so we hope that more people support the ideas behind nature conservation. For more information about us and our guides you can visit our website at: WWW.CROSSBILLGUIDES.ORG

highlights of tuscany

Highlights of Tuscany

Marvel at the world-famous Tuscan landscape with its cypress lanes and hill-top manors (route 20).

Visit Tuscany’s wetlands, of which there are an unexpectedly large number with an equally unexpected large number of birds (e.g. routes 4, 5, 6, 11, 13, 17, 18 and 22).

Go out plant hunting in April or May, the orchid season (e.g. routes 2, 5, 7, 8, 12 and 14, 21).

Enjoy a trip out to one of the Tuscan islands from some truly Mediterranean wildlife and beautiful, sun-soaked landscapes.

highlights of tuscany

Go into the Apennines or Apuan Alps for some long, energising hikes (e.g. routes 10, 14, 15, 16 and 23).

Explore the damp river valleys for the unique Italian amphibians like Northern Spectacled and Italian Cave Salamanders (e.g route 21 and site B on page 209).

Stroll over one of the many dry, slopes in the summer to find rare butterflies and other insects (e.g. routes 8, 14, 15 and 16).

Enjoy Tuscany’s agricultural landscape and small hamlets exploring backroads, and of course, finding an authentic Tuscan lunch.

about this guide

About this guide

6 boat trip or ferry crossing car route

bicycle route

walking route

beautiful scenery interesting history interesting geology

This guide is meant for all those who enjoy being in and learning about nature, whether you already know all about it or not. It is set up a little differently from most guides. We focus on explaining the natural and ecological features of an area rather than merely describing the site. We choose this approach because the nature of an area is more interesting, enjoyable and valuable when seen in the context of its complex relationships. The interplay of different species with each other and with their environment is simply mind-blowing. The clever tricks and gimmicks that are put to use to beat life’s challenges are as fascinating as they are countless. Take our namesake the Crossbill: at first glance it’s just a big finch with an awkward bill. But there is more to the Crossbill than meets the eye. This bill is beautifully adapted for life in coniferous forests. It is used like a scissor to cut open pinecones and eat the seeds that are unobtainable for other birds. In the Scandinavian countries where pine and spruce take up the greater part of the forests, several Crossbill species have each managed to answer two of life’s most pressing questions: how to get food and how to avoid direct competition. By evolving crossed bills, each differing subtly, they have secured a monopoly of the seeds produced by cones of varying sizes. So complex is this relationship that scientists are still debating exactly how many different species of Crossbill actually exist. Now this should heighten the appreciation of what at first glance was merely a plumb red bird with a beak that doesn’t seem to fit properly. Once its interrelationships are seen, nature comes alive, wherever you are. To some, impressed by the “virtual” familiarity that television has granted to the wilderness of the Amazon, the vastness of the Serengeti or the sublimity of Yellowstone, European nature may seem a puny surrogate, good merely for the casual stroll. In short, the argument seems to be that if you haven’t seen some impressive predator, be it a Jaguar, Lion or Grizzly Bear, then you haven’t seen the “real thing”. Nonsense, of course. But where to go? And how? What is there to see? That is where this guide comes in. We describe the how, the why, the when, the where and the how come of Europe’s most beautiful areas. In clear and accessible language, we explain the nature of Tuscany and refer extensively to routes where the area’s features can be observed best. We try to make Tuscany come alive. We hope that we succeed.

how to use this guide

How to use this guide This guidebook contains a descriptive and a practical section. The descriptive part comes first and gives you insight into the most striking and interesting natural features of the area. It provides an understanding of what you will see when you go out exploring. The descriptive part consists of a landscape section (marked with a red bar), describing the habitats, the history and the landscape in general, and of a flora and fauna section (marked with a green bar), which discusses the plants and animals that occur in the region. The second part offers the practical information (marked with a purple bar). A series of routes (walks) is carefully selected to give you a good flavour of all the habitats, flora and fauna that Tuscany has to offer. At the start of each route description, a number of icons give a quick overview of the characteristics of each route. These icons are explained in the margin of this page. The final part of the book (marked with blue squares) provides some basic tourist information and some tips on finding plants, birds and other animals. There is no need to read the book from cover to cover. Instead, each small chapter stands on its own and refers to the routes most suitable for viewing the particular features described in it. Conversely, descriptions of each route refer to the chapters that explain more in depth the most typical features that can be seen along the way. We have tried to keep the number of technical terms to a minimum. If using one is unavoidable, we explain it in the glossary at the end of the guide. There we have also included a list of all the mentioned plant and animal species, with their scientific names and translations into German and Dutch. Some species names have an asterix (*) following them. This indicates that there is no official English name for this species and that we have taken the liberty of coining one. For the sake of readability we have decided to translate the scientific name, or, when this made no sense, we gave a name that best describes the species’ appearance or distribution. Please note that we do not want to claim these as the official names. We merely want to make the text easier to follow for those not familiar with scientific names. When a new vernacular name was invented, we’ve also added the scientific name. An overview of the area described in this book is given on the map on page 12. For your convenience we have also turned the inner side of the back flap into a map of the area indicating all the described routes. Descriptions in the explanatory text refer to these routes.

7 interesting flora interesting invertebrate life interesting reptile and amphibian life interesting mammals interesting birdlife site for snorkelling interesting for whales and dolphins visualising the ecological contexts described in this guide

table of contents

Table of contents Landscape Geographical overview Geology Climate Habitats Tuscan Archipelago The Coast Hills and valleys of interior Tuscany The mountains History Nature conservation

11 12 17 21 22 24 34 42 50 56 66

Flora and Fauna Flora Mammals Birds Reptiles and amphibians Insects and other invertebrates

71 74 90 94 106 112

Practical Part Routes in the Tuscan Archipelago Route 1: Capraia Route 2: Elba Route 3: Giglio Routes in the Maremma and southwest Tuscany Route 4: San Felice and Diaccia Botrona wetland Route 5: Maremma Regional Park Route 6: Orbetello marshes Route 7: Monte Argentario Route 8: Monte Labbro and Roccalbegna Additional sites in southwest Tuscany Routes in Northwest Tuscany Route 9: Apuan Alps – a first exploration Route 10: Apuan Alps – Val Serenaia Route 11: Lago di Massaciuccoli and Bocca di Serchio Route 12: The coastal hills between Pisa and Lucca Route 13: Lago della Gherardesca and Bosco di Tanali Route 14: Monte Prato Fiorito

123 124 125 130 138 142 143 148 154 159 163 168 171 172 177 180 185 188 190

table of contents

9 Additional sites in northwest Tuscany Routes in northeast Tuscany Route 15: Alta Valle Sestaione Route 16: Walking to the Passo dei Tre Termini Route 17: Padule di Fucecchio and Lago di Sibolla Route 18: Stagni di Focognano Additional sites in northeast Tuscany Routes in southeast Tuscany Route 19: Valdarno Route 20: Val d’Orcia Route 21: Merse River Route 22: Lago di Montepulciano and Lago di Chiusi Route 23: Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi Additional sites in southeast Tuscany

193 195 196 199 202 206 209 211 21 2 217 222 227 230 234

Tourist information and observation tips Acknowledgements Picture and illustration credits Species list and translation

239 259 260 261

List of Text boxes Carrara Marble The Messinian Salinity Crisis Temperatures through the year Macchia and gariga Tuscan Island Restoration Draining Tuscany’s wetlands The Tuscan Landscape in Renaissance painting Wild Olive Communes or City-States Florence Siena Crested Porcupine Decline of the Lanner Bladetail Fighting Malaria The formation of the Valdarno graben

18 20 21 27 30 37 44 49 59 63 64 92 105 116 146 213

LANDSCAPE Tuscany – few places evoke such idyllic images. From the magical Mediterranean light on the rolling hills with scattered cypress trees, and from the sandy shoreline and rugged offshore islands to the wild, forested Apennine Mountains – Tuscany sits at the heart of Italy. This region can take as much credit for shaping much of Western art and civilization as Athens or Rome. During the Renaissance, it was a powerhouse of artists, poets, architects, bankers and civic leaders. Their churches, buildings, sculptures, paintings and writings were so distinctive that they left a lasting imprint on the world. Tuscany has also shaped our notion of the good life. The winemaking tradition in this region dates back to the Etruscans, the Sangiovese grape has come to distinguish the region’s wines. One sip conveys the region’s greatest qualities. It evokes the hilly landscape, the Mediterranean warmth, the timeless class of its cities, and of course, the flavours of its cuisine. Meals in Tuscany are taken seriously and enjoyed as a time of being together with family and friends. How about a rich ragù of braised boar meat over fresh pappardelle, a vegetarian pasta of the local pici style or a truffle risotto? This is the blueprint for the good life. Being so well known for its cultural heritage, Tuscany’s natural side has often been just a backdrop for many, often overlooked. Yet the region features a tremendous natural diversity. Tuscany enjoys species from both the western and eastern Mediterranean while also harbouring a strong central European influence. Its flora and fauna include a surprisingly rich array of orchids, butterflies, birds, reptiles and amphibians. Tuscany has many great sites to visit and choosing where to spend your time can be challenging. Some are close to and easily combined with a visit to the cultural hotspots, but to get a full taste of the region, you need to walk the oak and chestnut forests, explore the limestone grasslands and take a ferry to the beautiful islands of the Tuscan Archipelago. So, what better place to spend a morning exploring the Mediterranean macchia with its spring profusion of flowering shrubs and challenging Sylvia warblers rattling in the thick understory, followed by an exquisite outdoor lunch? Or take an evening walk and enjoy the mournful notes of displaying Stone-curlews just after the sun has set and the day’s heat mellows. This book will help guide you to the finest parts of this beautiful region of Italy and will help you to find its wildlife.

LANDSCAPE

Italian Cypress. Long planted around farmsteads and in gardens, these cypresses have come to distinguish the Tuscan landscape.

G EOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

NW Tuscany map on page 171

la spezia massa

10 9 Apuan 11

NE Tuscany map on page 195

14 15

Alps

Ap pistoia

pisa

ine

s SE Tuscany map on page 211

lucca

enn

florence

livorno

arezzo

Gorgona

volterra

nin

siena

montepulciano

Capraia

1 piombino

Elba

grosseto

4 5

Pianosa

pitigliano

porto santo stefano

Montecristo

3 Giglio

Monte 6-7 Argentario SW map on page 142

Tuscan Islands map on page 124

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

G EOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

Geographical overview

Tuscany is a large triangular province in central Italy covering some 23,000 square kilometres. It is bounded in the west by a scattering of islands lying in the Mediterranean Sea, and by a mountainous arc on the northern and eastern sides formed by the Apuan Alps and Apennine mountains. Southwestern Tuscany is slightly more arid and shares hilly country with the adjoining regions of Umbria and Lazio. Topographically Tuscany is quite varied with a series of coastal hills and interior ridges that create a series of northwest to southeast trending ridges prior to reaching the Apennine mountains. The neatness of this picture is interrupted by some formerly marshy valleys and a series of rivers that cut through the hills to reach the sea. Roughly speaking Tuscany consists of three large sections: the islands and the coast, the hills and valley landscape (which covers the larger part of the province) and higher and wilder mountains in the north and east.

The coast

Tuscany boasts over 300 kilometres of coastline with a specific section of the Mediterranean Sea, referred to as the Tyrrhenian Sea, which stretches out between Corsica-Sardinia and the Italian mainland. For geological and ecological reasons, this area boasts a unique flora and fauna (see page 71). The Tuscan shoreline hosts multiple small estuaries, rocky headlands and large expanses of sandy beaches and dunes. Some of Tuscany’s finest nature reserves are found here, including of course offshore, the Tuscan Archipelago National Park. The northern third of Tuscany’s coast is a sandy shoreline bordering the Versilia Plain and coastal floodplains

LANDSCAPE

The coast at Monte Argentario (route 7).

G EOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

created by rivers especially the Arno River near Pisa (Valdarno Inferior). While intensely used in the summer months as home to major beach destinations, it is fortunate that the large regional Parco Naturale di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli was established and other coastal dune and wetland reserves were established to protect some very sensitive habitats and species. Sadly, this is not an area that is easily explored, and although this area is important for wildlife, the heavy and rather chaotic urban development of this region makes it less idyllic than most other parts of Tuscany. The southern two-thirds of Tuscany’s coast features several coastal headlands (Monte Argentario, Punta Ala and Punta Falcone) and a large coastal plain called the Maremma. The Maremma is home of several very important protected wetlands and nature reserves, including the Maremma Natural Park, Diaccia Botrona, Orbetello Lagoon and Lago di Burano. In many cases, beaches and coastal dunes give way to Mediterranean macchia as well as pineta or coastal stone pine forests planted over the centuries. Tuscany is enriched by an archipelago with seven major islands, and an additional 30 smaller satellite rocks. They range in distance from 12-60 kilometres off shore, which places them almost midway mainland Italy and Corsica (the island of Capraia is in fact closer to Corsica than to the mainland). These are rugged islands anchoring the unique offshore Tuscan Archipelago National Park. This region has a superb flora and fauna that bridges the mainland and the much larger islands of Corsica and Sardinia. This is not only because of the natural state of both islands and the surrounding Tyrrhenian and Ligurian Seas, but also because the sea provides an important moderating climatic influence on coastal Tuscany. There are few places in Europe where it is this easy to combine a city trip, the beach and fine hiking and birdwatching in a small area.

The hills

Much of the province is hill country and forms most of what we associate with Tuscany: a pleasant landscape of low rolling hills, covered in a patchwork of fields, vineyards and olive groves, alternated with hedges, woodlands and with large and small valleys. Many of the higher parts are wooded and wild looking. There are a series of higher linear ridges that create distinct areas geographic areas. Quite striking is the extinct lava dome of Mount Amiata, lying in southwestern Tuscany at the northern end of a series of volcanos extending down to Mount Etna in Sicily. Southeastern Tuscany features two expansive valleys – the Val di Chiana,

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

G EOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

The classic Tuscan landscape, one of the highlights of the region, is found in the interior hills, particularly near Pienza (route 20).

and perhaps the most picturesque valley in Tuscany, the Val d’Orcia. Tuscany has numerous rivers with most originating in the mountainous east and eventually flowing into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Along their paths, they create floodplains that have been converted to other uses though important natural areas remain. The Arno River valley generally follows the arc of the Apennine from its source on the slopes of Monte Falterona in eastern Tuscany through Florence, Empoli and Pisa to the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is the longest of Tuscany’s rivers and its valley is the most densely populated. The Serchio River, also originating in the Apennines and the lengthy Ombrone River originating east of Siena in the Chianti region. The Chiana River rises near Arezzo, flows between the Arno and Tiber rivers, and passes through a wide valley (Val di Chiana) and two lakes (Chiusi and Montepulciano). The Tiber River which eventually flows through Rome, has its source in the southeastern Tuscan Apennine. The Tuscan hills are fertile, the climate benign and the rivers carry water throughout the year. No wonder this is an agricultural powerhouse and has been so since the Roman days. This is the land of countless small villages, all of which are old and picturesque, and of some of Italy’s most famous cities, like Siena, Florence, Lucca and San Gimignano. The naturalist will find plenty to do here, with all the wildlife in the river valleys and surrounding forested hills, a Mediterranean birdlife in agricultural land, and numerous smaller natural reserves.

LANDSCAPE

G EOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW

The mountains

The mountains are wild and little populated in comparison to the rest of Tuscany. They are home to numerous endemic plants and butterflies, besides species that are more widespread in the central European and Alpine regions. In addition, there are interesting amphibians, orchids and of course, birds that you won’t find in the low country. This is a fantastic landscape to explore, especially as the lowlands heat up in summer. The extensive road network allows you to take day hikes even in the more remote and wild areas. Most mountain areas have plenty of trails to choose from. The mountain section in Tuscany’s northwest is known as the Apuan Alps. They rise dramatically from the coastal plain to almost 2,000 metres over a distance of less than 10 kilometres. The Apuan Alps are a hotspot of biodiversity with numerous endemic species and an ecological island of calcareous mountains very close to the sea. They also form a western spur of the Apennine chain and constitute the northern border of Tuscany. They are bounded by the Magra River on the north and the Serchio River on the east. East of the Serchio are the Apennine mountains. They form the dramatic ridgeline visible in the north and east from many of the high vantage points and cities in Tuscany. As the Apennines extend east and pivot south around Florence, they form a rugged barrier that divides the Italian peninsula. The Northern Apennine hosts numerous relict alpine species, remnants from the last glacial period (some having evolved into distinct species from their now northern cousins). In fact, the pulses of glaciation help explain the diversity of flora in the Apennine, including the greater number of endemic plants in the Apennines as they extend well south of Tuscany into the Abruzzo region.

The ridge of the Apennine mountains encircles Tuscany to the north and east.

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

G EOLOGY

Geology

17 Geological formation of the region. The numbers refer to: 1: Sardinia 2: Corsica 3: Calabria 4: Sicily 5: Balearic islands

Tuscany’s bedrock is mostly composed of marine deposits that were pushed up when the African and European plates collided. This collision created the Apennine and Apuan Alps, but also a range of other land forms. In the middle of Tuscany lies a rift valley (‘graben’), and there are various volcanic outcrops and serpentine rock formations. As the land rose, numerous rivers formed, that eroded the deposits forming valleys and the broad floodplains we still see today.

Formation of Tuscany – Africa and Europe crashing together

eri a

3 5

France

50M years ago

Iberia

Ita

LANDSCAPE

For millions of years Tuscany was part of the Tethys Ocean seafloor. The Tethys was a large body of water that in the Mesozoic Era (250 to 65 M years ago) separated the landmasses that would later become Europe and Africa. The oceanic sediments of this long period are the raw material for today’s bedrock. The Apennines are composed mostly of shales, sandstones, and limestones of this marine origin. Locally, there is some volcanic bedrock near Mount Amiata – the highest mountain outside the arch of the Apennines and Apuan Alps. The oldest rocks date back to the late Paleozoic Era (about 300-250 M years ago). They are relicts of the super continent Gondwanaland’s ancient continental crust that transformed under pressure to become a serpentine bedrock. Serpentines are naturally rich in magnesium and heavy metals, thereby forming a real challenge to the vegetation. Only especially adapted plants can grow here. Since the serpentine soils form small, isolated outcroppings, many plants have evolved to unique species (e.g. site C on page 236).

France

120M years ago

France

30M years ago

2 1

Iberia

Ita

France

present

Iberia 5

Ita

1 4

HABITATS

Habitats Tuscany has a wide variety of habitats, from islands with evergreen scrubland to coastal wetlands, river valleys, small scale farmland, forests and subalpine meadows at the highest elevations. True Mediterranean habitat with evergreen macchia, cork and holm oak forest is limited to the coast and the Tuscan Archipelago. Coastal Tuscany is relatively flat, with a belt of dunes that is interrupted by river estuaries and rocky promontories. Locally, there are marshes and lagoons. Such places (best developed and seen at the Maremma Natural Park and at Orbetello) have an extraordinary wildlife. Just inland from that are extensive fields and wet grasslands – all fragments of the once vast wetlands that were drained for agriculture and public health reasons (see page 37). There are a series of coastal hills or small mountain ranges characterized by holm oak forest which has considerable overlap with macchia vegetation. As one moves inland Tuscany becomes hilly, with a patchwork of agriculture (fields, meadows, vineyards and olive groves primarily) mixed with deciduous woodland in which various oak species are the dominant trees.

Macchia and evergreen forest (p. 27&41)

Agricultural land (p. 36)

Coastal cliffs

River mouth (p. 34)

Tuscan archipelago (p. 24)

Idealised cross-section of the Tuscan landscape. The various habitats are described in the chapters on the the following pages.

Dunes& coastal lagoons (p.38) Pine forest (p. 39)

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

Inland marshes (p. 46)

HABITATS

These trees shed their leaves and, as a result of the fertile soils, grow rather tall, giving them a temperate rather than Mediterranean look, although many of the shrubs are Mediterranean species (Tree Heath, Sage-leaved Cistus). Cutting through the Tuscan hills are a series of rivers that form valleys of varying widths and bands of riparian ash and willow forest. Southern Tuscany is home to Monte Amiata, a relic volcano dome, and the adjacent lovely limestone ridges around Monte Labbro. To the east and north, the slopes of the Apuan Alps and Apennine Mountains are covered in oak, chestnut (at higher elevations) and beech forests and small pockets of remnant Silver Fir (higher still). The upper slopes have subalpine heathlands and grasslands, with the heathlands dominating in the predominantly acidic Apennine Mountains and the grasslands in the limestone Apuan Alps. The next chapters will describe these habitats and their flora and fauna in more detail.

Subalpine heath and grassland (p. 54)

Fields (p. 47)

Beech forest (p. 53)

Chestnut forest (p. 52)

The interior hills (p. 42)

Oak forest (p. 43)

Rivers and riparian marshes (p. 45)

LANDSCAPE

TUSCAN ARCHIPELAGO

Tuscan Archipelago Routes 1-3 explore the Tuscan archipelago.

Anticipating arrival to Elba Island’s Portoferraio.

According to legend, the Tuscan Archipelago was a string of pearls lost by Venus in the Tyrrhenian Sea. The seven main islands and 30 islets and rocks as well as a substantial marine zone were incorporated in the Parco Nazionale Arcipelago Toscano in 1989. These islands have a long history of human habitation, extending back to at least Etruscan times, 700 BCE. The Romans constructed villas on the islands. Not surprisingly the islands have a history of intrigue. Various European and North African powers sought to control these strategically located islands in order to control Mediterranean trade. Napoleon spent a year of exile (1814) on Elba and Alexander Dumas’s Count of the Monte Cristo was partially set on Montecristo Island. Three islands (Elba, Giglio and Capraia) are easily visited; the other islands require more advance planning and guided visits. First (or second) time visitors may want to decide to skip visiting these smaller islands, as most of the wildlife and flora that makes the Tuscan archipelago special are on these three major islands. What sets these islands aside is the primacy of Mediterranean vegetation. The woodlands, the macchia and gariga (also known by its French name garrigue) scrublands and rock vegetation consists almost completely of Mediterranean, evergreen species, such as Holm and Cork Oak, Wild and False Olive, Strawberry Tree and a wide variety of shrubs. All of them are adapted to the extreme summer droughts and mild, wet winters (see page 21). As in other places in the Mediterranean, these three main vegetation types continuously mix, with a seamless (and arbitrary) transition

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

TUSCAN ARCHIPELAGO

between low woodland and macchia (the latter being roughly between 25 waist high and head high) and further down to gariga (between knee and waist high). Interestingly, although the vegetation is very rich in species, there is not a great difference in species composition between forest, macchia and gariga itself. They may all contain roughly similar species, but the composition does change when the soil type or depth starts to vary (see also box on page 27). In a sense the Tuscan islands form a bridge from the mainland and Sardinia and Corsica, sharing species from each to varying degrees. However, the islands have been isolated long enough to host a number of endemic species, particularly plants. Moreover, the islands have quite different soil types, which also explains why the vegetation between the islands contains of different species, even though they all share a mix of forest, macchia and gariga. Some of the local species are ‘narrow endemics’, found only on one or Moltoni’s Warbler, a two of the Tuscan Islands (such as the Knapweed of Capraia or the but- Tuscan specialty terfly Villa’s Blue, found only on Elba). However, there is a much larger Sylvia Warblers and Mediterranean Vegetation number of species that are uniquely Sardinian Warbler A generalist that can be found found in the larger but still small in a broad range of vegetation from gariga, macarea known as the Tyrrhenian biome: chia, abandon farms, olive groves, gardens, etc. Blackcap Favours tall forests Corsica, Sardinia, the Tuscan islands Moltoni’s Wabler Primarily maccia and a narrow coastal strip along the Dartford and Marmora’s Warbler favour gariga French-Italian coast (see page 71). with Dartford liking brooms and gorses generally This special character of the local bioassociated with acidic gariga. diversity extends to the fauna. In parSpectacled Warbler Favours rocky dwarf scrub ticular butterflies, reptiles and birds with open areas. are typical of these Mediterranean habitats. To name a few mouth-watering species that occur here and not on the mainland are Marmora’s Warbler, Corsican Finch, Yelkouan Shearwater, while others are more easily seen on the islands such as Shag, Eleonora’s Falcon, and potentially, many rarities during migration. The islands also feature rocky habitats which is a similarity shared with Corsica and Sardinia, and not with a couple of exceptions the mainland

LANDSCAPE

TUSCAN ARCHIPELAGO

A distant view of Giglio (route 3) from Monte Argentario (route 7). Corsican Finch (middle) and Black Spider Orchid (bottom) are soughtafter Tuscan Island species.

coast. Rocky areas and cliffs are attractive for Alpine Swift, Blue Rock Thrush and some other coastal species. The various islands of the archipelago are quite diverse in size, topography and geology (see explanation of their formation, page 20), and therefore each has its own attractions, which we’ll explore further in this section. Each island has its own unique character but all share the beauty of the Mediterranean’s blue waters, which are particularly rich in this ‘Tyrrhenian’ part of the Mediterranean basin. In particular, the sea birds and the cetaceans (whales and dolphins) make a trip to the islands a must for all naturalists. There is also a good infrastructure for hiking, which is a great way to explore the islands in all but the hottest seasons. However, not all is pristine on the Tuscan archipelago. The islands have their share of conservation problems. The human presence has had an impact on the island’s habitats such as grazing by livestock or the introduction of non-native predators, such as cats and rats. Although the latter is a rodent, it is also a fervent consumer of birds’ eggs against which sea birds have no defence and which can decimate the seabird population on

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

TUSCAN ARCHIPELAGO

Macchia and gariga On the Tuscan islands and growing behind the sand dunes into the low hills or on the promontories of the mainland, the dominant vegetation is a scrub community unique to the Mediterranean basin. The shrubs typically have thick leaves rich in waxes and aromatic compounds which can sometimes have spines and hairs. These qualities described as ‘sclerophyllous’ (hard-leaved) help these plants retain moisture and deter herbivores. Sclerophylly evolved in five different regions in the world (the Mediterranean, California, Chile, coastal South Africa and portions of southern Australia); each of them having an essentially Mediterranean climate with hot arid summers and mild wet winters that provide a large pulse of rainfall. In the western Mediterranean basin this spiny, evergreen scrub vegetation is known variously as maquis (French), mattoral (Spanish) or macchia (Italian). Under conditions of increased aridity, shallower soils, windy areas or human activities, the scrub takes a more prostrate form that is often referred to as either garrigue (French) or gariga (Italian). Aside from the climate (temperature and moisture), the specific composition of plants in each will be shaped by the quantity of lime or degree of acidity. Macchia tends to be an impenetrable habitat with an overstory 2-3 m high and a tangled understory that is full of fragrant herbs and flowering plants that burst into colour in spring. The community is susceptible to fire, due to the high density of vegetation, naturally occurring oils in the leaves and extreme hot summer temperatures. Given the long span of human civilization in the Mediterranean region it is expected that areas that may have been dominated by mature holm oaks in lower elevations were transformed as humans harvested the oaks, reducing the leaf litter cover, depleting a source of organic materials and with time favouring a differing mix of shrubs such as brooms, myrtle, mastic and others. With repeated fire and livestock grazing, these communities can continue to degrade to grassy steppes and eventually bare soils. The best examples of macchia are found on the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, as well as on coastal promontories such as Punta Ala, Piombino, the mountains of the Uccellina and Monte Argentario. Gariga can be found on Elba, Capraia, Giglio as well as in a number of coastal mountains (Pisa, Livorno).

an island in just a few years after introduction. There have been active restoration projects including efforts to eradicate rats and feral cats on some of the islands to help seabird nesting (see page 30).

LANDSCAPE

A pocket of low wind-swept gariga on Capraia.

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Whether you look at birds (over 475 species), butterflies (over 128 species) or wildflowers (especially orchids), Tuscany is a biodiversity hotspot. The reason for this richness is not hard to understand. Biogeographically, Tuscany sits in midst of the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean biome is one of the most biodiverse in the world. In a relatively small geographic area, covering about 2% of the global land mass, 12% of the world’s plants species occur. The Mediterranean biome itself varies greatly from west to east. Plants, birds and butterfliers that are common in the west, are often rare or absent in the east and vice versa. Tuscany sits at the Mediterranean’s heart and is enriched by species from both the western and eastern parts of the basin. Typical examples of Western Mediterranean species are Redlegged Partridge, Melodious Warbler, Cork Oak and Umbrella Pine, while Pygmy Cormorant, Four-lined Snake, Sparse-flowered Orchid and Bladetail serve as examples of eastern species. It is important to note that some of these are scarce or occur in just a few spots that meet the needs of these species. Quite a few species in Tuscany, often considered to be the most attractive or special ones, are those that are restricted to Italy, or just a part of Italy. Whilst Tuscany largely lacks the ‘narrow endemic’ species (those exclusive to only a part of the province), there are quite a few Italian endemics. Good examples are Northern Spectacled Salamander and Italian Cave Salamander, Italian Festoon (a butterfly), Yellow Milkwort, Bertoloni’s Orchid and the crabronifera subspecies of Eyed Bee Orchid. A very special subzone of the Mediterranean is the Tyrrhenian biome. It covers the islands of Sardinia and Corsica (outside our area), but also the Tuscan archipelago and a smaller section of the mainland coast. This is a separate zone because of its high number of local endemics, which were able to evolve here as the Tyrrhenian Islands were isolated from the mainland for a long time (see geology chapter). Examples of this zone are Bellier’s Blue (its subspecies villai only occuring on Elba), Corsican Finch, Marmora’s Warbler and a large range of wildflowers, including the impressive Scarce Tongue Orchid.

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Bee-eaters are the avian representation of the Tuscan spirit: cheerful, colourful elegant and social.

INTRODUCTION

Blue Anemone, a central Mediterranean species.

Ringing the northern and eastern borders, the Apennine Mountains and the Apuan Alps are an important stronghold of central European species, especially from the Alps. Some of them are widespread (e.g. Beech trees), whereas others are true relicts that occur in only a few places (e.g. Pool Frog and Frog Orchid). There are also quite a few relict Alpine species, of which the occurrences of White Fir, Trumpet Gentian and Alpine Chough are testimony). Large areas in central Tuscany have a typical transition between Mediterranean and temperate regions, and here too, there is quite a large range of species that are rare or absent from the hot coastal areas and the mountainous parts. This biodiversity is often considered to be typical of warm-temperate or sub-Mediterranean realm and the most eyecatching examples are the two dominant oaks of these parts: the Turkey and the Downy Oak. Among the birds, Cirl Bunting and Serin serve as good examples. Most of the flora and fauna of this region, including the mentioned oaks and birds, range rather widely over southern Europe. Whereas this central part of Tuscany holds a wide range of species, it is not the area where the rarities are found.

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

INTRODUCTION

Main biogeographical regions in Tuscany

West Mediterranean region e.g. Melodious Warbler (Hippolais polyglotta)

Alpine region e.g. Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana acaulis)

Temperate region e.g. Pine Marten (Martes martes)

Alpine region

Tuscany

Thyrrenean region

n n

g re

West Mediterranean region

Corsica

Sardinia

East Mediterranean region

Italian e.g. Northern Spectacled Salamander (Salamandrina perspicillata)

East Mediterranean region e.g. Four-lined Snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata) Tyrrhenian region e.g. Elban Heath (Coenonympha elbana)

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Flora The best wildflower routes are routes 2, 5, 7, 8 and 12 for Mediterranean wildflowers, routes 9, 10 and 14 for high mountain flora of limestone areas and routes 15 and 16 for wildflowers of subalpine heathlands. The best orchid routes are 2, 5, 7, 12, 14, 21 and site B on page 235.

Green-winged Orchids can appear en mass as in early spring, such as here near Valdarno (Route 19).

A visit to Tuscany between March and May – the most rewarding season – will treat you to a lovely variety of flowers. As can be expected, the islands and coastal area starts to bloom earliest in the season, with proliferous flowering already in February. The peak season is April and the first half of May, when herbs such as rosemary, thyme and various rock-roses and brooms brighten up the macchia and gariga. Orchids are plentiful in the right places. At this time, the interior oak woodlands offer a profusion of sowbreads, anemones, violets, primroses and the first, early orchids. The peak flowering in the hilly country is in May, with the higher regions being attractive well into June. The upper reaches of the Apennines and Apuan

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Alps only start to flower in mid-May and peak in the second half of June and July, with plants lingering on until September – the time in which a modest autumn floral scene emerges in the Mediterranean lowlands. So, in short, between February and October, you are ensured to find interesting wildflowers. While Tuscany offers many temperate species familiar to the northern European visitor, there is a lovely mix of Mediterranean species, serpentine specialties, and numerous orchids to keep you busy. So far for the good news. The bad news is that this dazzling diversity is not well covered in field guides. There is no single botanical guidebook that will serve as a suitable source in the field. Rather, one will have to rely on a range of tools, including some excellent phone applications like iNaturalist and Flora Incognita to start sorting through Tuscany’s rich flora (see page 249). The flora of the most important habitats is described in the following paragraphs which is followed by a section on the region’s orchids. In these descriptions, we focus on the species that are either typical, sought-after or fairly easy to recognise. In other words, we focus on making this a practical description for the non-specialist plant enthusiast, rather than for the expert botanist.

The flora of the Tuscan Archipelago and coastal macchia

The Tuscan archipelago hosts a typically Mediterranean flora that shares features and species with both the mainland and the large Mediterranean islands. Indeed, the Italian botanist P.V. Arrigoni described the islands as a bridge from Sardinia and Corsica to the flora of the Tyrrhenian coast. Mediterranean macchia largely dominates along with gariga, coastal cliffs, planted pine woodlands and agricultural plots form the main habitats. In spring, the macchia is full of flowers of Sage-leaved, Narrow-leaved and Cretan Cistuses, together with Wild Rosemary, Mock Privet, Mastic, Myrtle, Tree Heath, Strawberry Tree, Phoenician Juniper, dwarf forms of oaks and various brooms and greenweeds. Gariga (see page 27) features more prostrate vegetation, also with cistuses, Rosemary and junipers, but also with herbs, like Curry Plant, thymes, toadflaxes and orchids. The only native palm here, the Dwarf Fan Palm, reaches its northern limit on the islands and on the adjoining mainland. It is a shrub growing up to 3 m in height, and has managed to hang on in the Tuscan Archipelago where it can be found in small occurrences on Capraia and Elba.

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Eastern Mediterranean wildflowers such as Peacock Anemone (top) and Cretan Cistus (bottom) are found in Tuscany.

Many of the herbs, both in macchia and gariga are bulbous plants, capable of storing nutrients that enables them to produce flowers at times that gathering energy through photosynthesis is difficult. Especially early in spring (and to lesser extent late in the autumn) there are asphodels, grape-hyacinths, crocuses, narcissi, garlics, squills and orchids (see page 85). In roadsides – often great places for wildflowers – you’ll find, in addition to the bulbs, Broad-leaved Anemone, Ivy-leaved and Spring Sow-bread, periwinkles, thistles, Narrow-leaved Lupin and Purple Viper’s-bugloss. There is a great difference in flora between the limestone and acidic bedrocks. This explains how the flora can be very different in one place compared to the next, even though the habitat seems the same. On acidic soils, you’ll typically find Spotted Rock-rose and plants like Small-flowered Catchfly. Ploughed fields and olive groves can put up a great show of wildflowers in spring. Here the species composition depends greatly on whether or not the ground has been recently ploughed. Ploughing destroys the bulbs, but the open soil is ideal for fast-growing annual plants like chamomiles, viper’s-buglosses, poppies and all sorts of yellow crucifers. The slopes of Monte Capanne on Elba are an important exception to this general image of the Mediterranean flora. On its shaded slopes, relicts Flora of the macchia and Tuscan Islands Small-flowered Catchfly (Silene gallica), Smearwort (Aristolochia rotunda), Spotted Rock-rose (Tuberaria guttata), Narrow-leaved Lupine (Lupinus angustifolius), Purple Toadflax (Linaria purpurea), Yellow Milkwort (Polygala flavescens), Three-cornered Leek (Allium triquetrum), Roman Squill (Bellevalia romana), Scarce Tongue Orchid (Serapias neglecta), Bumblebee Orchid (Ophrys bombyliflora), Early Spider Orchid (Ophrys sphegodes), Small Spider Orchid (Ophrys areanola), Black Spider Orchid (Ophrys atrata), Naked Man Orchid (Orchis onthropophorum), Pink Butterfly Orchid (Anacamptis papilionacea)

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from a cooler climatic period including Hop Hornbeam, Chestnut and Royal Fern, Orange Lily and Wild Tulip. Unfortunately, the bulbs are a treat for the Wild Boars, which threaten some of the populations of wildflowers. Elba hosts a number of endemics, such as the Capanne Knapweed* (Centaurea ilvensis) and the Elba Violet* (Viola corsica ilvensis). The Elba Crocus* (Crocus ilvensis), recently described, occurs on the slopes of Mt. Capanne. The volcanic and botanically interesting Capraia has over 650 plant species, of which about 20 are endemic. Among the most significant examples are the toadflax Linaria capraria and the Capraia Knapweed* (Centaurea gymnocarpa). While Holm Oak is quite common in macchia, with just a bit of elevation they will become dominant forming an open woodland and outcompeting shrubby species. This evergreen oak woodland is common in coastal hills and will extend inland some distance, particularly on south- facing slopes. Not surprisingly, soils – either acidic or calcareous – will result in different mixes of species. Some Tuscan Archipelago botanical specialties Star Lily (Pancratium illyricum) blooms in May on the rocks and humid valleys on the southwestern part of Elba’s Monte Capanne and on Capraia. Corsican Borage (Borago pygmaea) is also part of this contingent of SardinianCorsican plants landed on Capraia. Corsican Mint (Mentha requienii) is a small mint found on Montecristo as well as in Sardinia and Corsica. Capraia Toadflax (Linaria capraria) is widespread on the cliffs as well as on walls in the villages on all the islands. Capraia Knapweed (Centaurea gymnocarpa) is a spectacular bush with grey leaves and tall, thistle-like flowerheads that is endemic to the island of Capraia. Sea-lavenders Some species of the genus Limonium have small differences that are difficult to detect with the naked eye and have their area restricted to the territory of a single island, from which they take their name.

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The Yellow Aspodel is an uncommon macchia species. It is one of several East Mediterranean species at the western edge of its range.

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Livelong Saxifrage (left), Spring Gentian (right)

calcareous rocks surface water is rare, but when present it is home to Butterwort, Early Marsh-orchid and Musk Orchid. Boggy lakesides are a little more frequent in the Apennines, where classic bog species can be found, like Broad-leaved Cottongrass and Butterwort. Conspicuous wildflowers of the montane regions Narcissus-flowered Anemone (Anemone narcissiflora), Dark Columbine (Aquilegia atrata), Common Peony (Paeonia officinalis), Wood Crane’s-bill (Geranium sylvaticum), Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), Apennine Primrose (Primula apennina), Auricula (Primula auricula), Clusius’s Gentian (Gentiana clusii), Spring Gentian (Gentiana verna), Willow Gentian (Gentiana asclepiadea), Fringed Gentian (Gentianella ciliata), Rock Thyme (Acinos alpinus), Apennine Globularia (Globularia incanescens), Polygala carueliana, Naked-stalked Speedwell (Veronica aphylla longistyla), Round-headed Rampion (Phyteuma orbiculare), Alpine Aster (Aster alpinus) Meadow Saffron (Colchicum autumnale), Green-flowered False Helleborine (Veratrum lobelianum), Orange Lily (Lilium bulbiferum), Martagon Lily (Lilium martagon)

Flora of Serpentine Outcrops

Tuscany features numerous and scattered serpentine outcrops that host numerous endemic plants. Serpentine’s mineral composition and dry Mediterranean summers make for a challenging environment, hence these areas are often rocky with thin soils and little organic material. Shrubs, garigas and steppe grasslands are the most typical serpentine vegetations. The plants that occur here are especially adapted to

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

FLORA

Tuscany’s Serpentine Endemics Asplenium cuneifolium, Biscutella pichiana ssp. pichiana, Alyssum bertolonii, Minuartia laricifolia ssp. ophiolithica, Armeria denticulata, Euphorbia nicaeensis ssp. prostrata, Stachys recta ssp. serpentini, Thymus acicularis var. ophioliticus, Centaurea aplolepa ssp. carueliana, Leucanthemum pachyphyllum

surviving in these habitats and replace the species that would normally grow in similar habitats with ‘normal’ soils. This being said, the serpentine plants are usually kin species to more familiar ones, and consist mostly of grasses, crucifers and thrifts that are in appearance not unlike their widespread cousins. Hence in the eyes of the casual plant lover, the serpentine flora is not as exciting as it is to the professional botanists. Tuscany’s serpentines are found on Elba, Capraia and Giglio, in the Livorno Mountains, the Colline Metallifere hills, and scattered in the Apennine mountains. Unfortunately, serpentine areas suffer from serious threats, including quarrying and conifer plantations. Serpentines are used in industrial processes and prized for building material (the green and black marble of Prato).

Orchids

The orchids are Tuscany’s botanical delight in spring. Over 80 species have been recorded (although due to taxonomic difficulties, experts differ in their opinions on how many species there really are). This makes Tuscany one of the finer regions in Europe in terms of orchid diversity. In spite of this, Tuscany does not have the name of being an orchid hotspot, which is probably because some parts of southern Italy, like Sicily and the ‘orchid capital of Europe’, the Gargano Peninsula, have more endemic species. Tuscany has a blend of widespread central European and Mediterranean orchids, the former being dominant in the interior of the region and the

FLORA AND FAUNA

Odontarrhena bertolonii, a central Italian endemic found in serpentine outcrops.

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Orchids are found easily and in profusion in roadsides. This is a Naked Man Orchid in Maremma (route 5).

latter at the coast and on the islands. The large area of hilly country that forms the bulk of Tuscany has a blend of the two. Within the Mediterranean group, there are some sought-after species that are typical of southern Italy and Greece and reach their northwestern range limit in Tuscany. Examples are the beautiful Sparse-flowered Orchid, Bertoloni’s Orchid and the Ophrys crabronifera, related to the group of ‘eyed bee orchids’ – Ophrys argolica. Additionally, there are some species that are unique to the Tyrrhenian islands and the adjacent mainland (e.g. the impressive Scarce Tongue Orchid) All in all, plenty to see! Although the orchids are widespread across Tuscany, one can identify clear hotspots, both geographically and in terms of habitat. Whether inland or at the coast, the limestone soils are the best. Inland these are generally the karstic grasslands (rocky grasslands with thin soils). At the coast, such rocky habitats are generally too dry and not optimal for orchids. Instead, it is the unploughed olive groves and open woodlands that have most orchids in the coastal areas. Throughout Tuscany however, the richest orchid habitat are roadsides. Here, the grazing pressure is low and mowing keeps the roadsides grassy. In such places, you may suddenly come across thousands of Early Spider Orchids, Lady or Green-winged Orchids, or other species. The trick to finding orchids is therefore to drive the quiet backroads in areas with limestone soils. In season (of course) the taller and showier species can easily be picked out from the car. They are your signal to find a parking spot and stroll along the road to pick out the more subtle species as well, such as the various spider orchids and other species of the Ophrys genus. Such spots are incorporated in the car routes in this book, but there are many, many more, especially in the coastal region. Throughout Tuscany, the Ophrys (bee orchids) are particularly numerous. Within this group, there are several species or species groups to be found, of which only the Fly Orchid is bound to the interior

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FLORA

non-Mediterranean habitats, where it grows on dry karstic grasslands. It often grows together with spider orchids – a confusing bunch of closely related (sub)species that occur all over Tuscany and are usually the most abundant orchids in roadsides, although their inconspicuous flowers make them easily overlooked. Within this group, the Early Spider Orchid (O. aranifera) and Small Spider Orchid (O. araneola) are present in the interior and coastal areas alike, whilst the very early flowering False Spider Orchid (O. exaltata) and the two dark-flowered species, Black Spider Orchid (O. atrata; with long dark hairs on the edge of the lip) and Passion-tide Orchid (O. passionis; with only short hairs) are largely restricted to the coast and the islands. More recent orchid guides recognise different species again, which complicates the taxonomy (e.g. Ophrys argentaria, O. montis-leonis, O. classica, O. minipassionis, O. tarquinia and O. garganica – all of which belong to the spider orchid group). The coastal zone has many more Ophrys species. The tiny Bumblebee Orchid grows very locally, but where it is found, it is often present in the thousands. The very pretty, large-flowered Eyed Bee Orchid is rather rare, but may be encountered on Monte Argentario and on Giglio Islands. Other rather uncommon species within this group are Sawfly, Yellow Bee, Sombre Bee (again occurring in various subspecies) and Mirror Orchids – all are restricted to the coast and the Tuscan Archipelago. More widespread are Late Spider Orchid (O. fuciflora; not closely related to the other spider orchids) and Bertoloni’s Bee Orchid. The latter is another highlight among the Tuscan orchids, easily distinguishable by its deep pink petals and large, brown, saddle-like lip with a bluish, shiny patch in the middle. This orchid’s range is centred around Italy and the Adriatic coast. Another typically Mediter-ranean group is that of the tongue orchids (Serapias) of which five species occur. Besides the tall Heart-flowered Tongue Orchid, the equally tall Scarce Tongue Orchid is the highlight

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Mirror Orchid is rather rare and mostly found on limestone close to the coast.

BIRDS

Birds Seabirds are best seen from the ferries to the islands and vantage points on those islands. Mediterranean scrubland birds easiest to see on the islands as well (routes 1-3), but also on Monte Argentario (route7). Your best chance on seeing wintering alpine species (e.g. Wallcreeper) is on routes route 8 and 12, whilst bird migration is most noticeable on Giglio (3) and various coastal marshes and headlands (routes 4, 5, 6, 7, 11 and site C on page 193). Wetland birds are found both on the coast (best 4, 6, 11 and sites A-C on page 168-169 and A, B, D and E on pages 193-194 and in the broader valleys inland (route 13, 17, 18, 19 and 22). Birds of dry, agricultural plains are most common on route 20. High mountain species are best observed on routes 9 and 10 (Apuan Alps) and route 16 (Apennines).

One of kind, the Hoopoe occurs in open country, orchards, parks and gardens and often its oop-oop-oop call is heard before it is spotted.

Tuscany is not one of the classic top birding destinations in Europe, so it may come as a surprise that, with over 400 species recorded, this region is a remarkably good birdwatching destination. Tuscany holds a fine range of wetland birds, mixed with species of Mediterranean and temperate European scrublands, forests, agricultural land and mountains. The coastal wetlands are perhaps the top destinations due to the plentiful water birds, yet the forests and agricultural lands of the Tuscan hills provide an excellent diversity of raptors, warblers, larks, pipits, buntings and Mediterranean birds such as Bee-eater, Roller and Hoopoe. The Tuscan islands are a magnet for migrants, including numerous vagrant species. The islands hold specialties like Marmora’s Warbler, Corsican Finch, Tyrrhenian Spotted Flycatcher (a subspecies of Spotted Flycatcher), as well as the shearwaters and other marine birds. The scrubby macchia holds Sardinian, Dartford, Moltoni’s and other warblers. Moltoni’s Warbler is one of a recent three-way split of the Subalpine Warbler group (Western Subalpine occurring in the extreme northwest of Italy and Eastern Subalpine occurring in the Tuscany’s interior southeast). The montane areas are not particularly diverse but hold their special treats such as Alpine Chough, Golden Eagle and migrant Dotterel and Ring Ouzel.

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

BIRDS

Seabirds

The Tuscan coast, archipelago and surrounding waters hold two Mediterranean specialties that are worth searching for. Because the taxonomic status of both of them is disputed, several names are used. The smallest is the Yelkouan Shearwater (which beautiful name derives from the Turkish word for windchaser), which is increasingly regarded as a race of Balearic Shearwater, whilst the larger Scopoli’s Shearwater is often considered to be a race of Cory’s Shearwater. Both species nest and forage around the Tuscan Archipelago. These shearwaters are relatively easy to see from off-shore ferries. Both species declined strongly in the 20th century due to feral rats and cats on their island breeding colonies. These invaders eat the eggs and young and the shearwaters have no defence against them. Fortunately, recent programs to eliminate rats and cats from the uninhabited islets are paying off and the shearwater numbers are rising again. Montecristo island is of international importance for Yelkouan Shearwater, whereas Scopoli’s numbers have increased on an islet off Capraia due to the eradication of rats. The Audouin’s Gull, a threatened species that occurs exclusively in the Mediterranean region, can be found around the Tuscan islands, although the familiar Yellow-legged Gull is much more common. The Mediterranean subspecies of Shag and European Storm-Petrel also occur though the latter is difficult to find. The Serchio, Arno and Ombrone river mouths are excellent sites for seawatching as the rivers’ nutrients create a rich feeding zone for both marine and coastal species. Scan the sea and shoreline for shearwaters, gulls (Audouin’s and, in winter, Mediterranean and Caspian) as well as Sandwich and Little Terns. During the winter months, seawatching near one of the major river mouths or one of the piers along the northwest coast can yield Northern Gannet, shearwaters, grebes, Red- and Blackthroated Divers, as well as Velvet and Common Scoter and perhaps other surprises such as Razorbill.

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Scopoli’s Shearwater, a form of Cory’s Shearwater primarily found in the Mediterranean.

BIRDS

Two sought-after Shrub-dwelling Sylvia warblers: Sardinian (top) and Marmora’s (bottom). Both are Tyrrhenian endemics, only occurring in this north-western part of Italy, the Tuscan Islands, Sardinia and Corsica.

Birds of scrubland, grassy and rocky slopes

A number of the Mediterranean specialties occur in the evergreen scrublands or macchia on the islands and the rocky parts of the coast. Many of them can be challenging to see as they mostly forage and call out of sight in the thick Mediterranean vegetation. Spring is by far the best time to find them as they sing and display for a short period. After building their nests, they disappear into the dense vegetation foraging and feeding their young. Many of these birds are warblers belonging to the Sylvia genus. Most species in this group are found exclusively in the Mediterranean basin. In Tuscany, at least five species can be found in scrublands: Sardinian (common), Dartford (heathlands near the coast) and the local specialty, Moltoni’s. Additionally, Marmora’s Warbler can be found on the Island of Elba and Capraia. Moltoni’s Warbler, a recent ‘split’, occurs exclusively in the Tyrrhenian region (i.e. Sardinia, Corsica, the Tuscan islands and nearby coastal region). Females and juveniles in this group are visually indistinguishable but male Moltoni’s are a fairly uniform pale salmon below whereas male Eastern Subalpine Warbler (the 5th scrubland warbler found in the interior of Tuscany) have a darker throat contrasting with a paler lower chest and belly. Songs and particularly calls differ (see www.xeno-canto.org). There are some attractive cliff and rock slope bird species as well, including three species of swift. While Common Swift is most common, Tuscany also hosts Alpine and Pallid Swifts, so it is worth taking a closer look at the swifts you see even in the heart of the cities. Pallid Swifts can be found regularly at the Torre di Calafuria south of Livorno, as well as other locales. Crag Martin is found in numerous sites in the northern half of Tuscany but is

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more common in the mountains. Blue Rock Thrush breed on the hot, Mediterranean rock slopes. In winter, these places attract birds from the higher elevations, that wait out the longer, harsher season of the High Alps. The spectacular Wallcreeper is one of them. It occurs particularly often on the cliffs of quarries just north of Pisa. Alpine Accentor and even White-winged Snowfinch are sometimes found here. The rocky slopes of Monte Labbro (route 8) deserve special mention as it is one of the few karstic slopes in the lower parts of Tuscany. It has a special birdlife, with Red Kite, Montagu’s Harrier, Short-toed Eagle, Redbacked Shrike, Rock and Cirl Buntings. The cliffs of the low ranges are home to various raptors, most commonly the Peregrine, especially along the coast and on the islands. Here, they breed in safety and use the air currents that rise up from the cliffs to fly. Lanner, now sadly almost gone from Tuscany, once sought out cliff nests and forage widely in the Tuscany’s hilly landscape.

Birds of the coastal dunes and marshes

Just off the beach, it is worth scanning the dunes for (Greater) Short-toed Lark and Northern Wheatear. The pine woodlands and scrubby edges off the dunes can be an excellent place to search for Great Spotted Cuckoos (rare, only usually spotted on Tuscany’s southern coastline) and arriving migrants in the Spring months. The saline flats and brackish wetlands along the coast such as Orbetello Lagoon or Diaccia Botrona are attractive to a large number of birds: Greater Flamingo, Common Shelduck, Mediterranean and Slender-billed Gull (rare), Gull-billed Tern, Little Tern, Sandwich Tern, Collared Pratincole (rare), Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, Oystercatcher, Ringed, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers and many other wader species during migration.

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Caspian Tern (top) and Mediterranean Gull (bottom)– two birds of the coastal lagoons.

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Reptiles and amphibians Reptiles and amphibians are as ever hard to pinpoint to a specific location. There are some great species throughout Tuscany, with the Mediterranean species most commonly found at the coast, although many of them extend deep inland. Particularly attractive are the islands (routes 1-3), Monte Argentario, Monte Labbro and Maremma (routes 5, 6 and 7). Giglio (route 3) is particularly good for the Tyrrhenian Painted Frog and Leaf-toed Gecko. Inland the Italian endemic salamanders are present along many of the rivers in mountains (e.g. 21 and 23). A particularly good place is site B on page 209.

Amphibians

The list of frogs, toads, newts and salamanders is quite large and includes almost 20 native species. Moreover, there are some unique species on that list. Especially among the salamanders, there are some that are not found outside (a small part) of Italy. Undoubtedly, this has to do with the geological isolation of the country. Although Italy is now attached to the mainland, the Alps form a barrier that makes spreading to the rest of Europe difficult. One of these Italian specialties, the Northern Spectacled Salamander, is an Italian endemic that occurs in hilly and mountainous areas either in deciduous forests with lots of leaf litter or in steep stream valleys in macchia scrub. This animal looks very different from any other European salamander (except of course from the Southern Spectacled Salamander, which occupies the southern part of Italy). It has a dull slate-coloured back and a golden patch on the head. The underside of the tail, however, is deep red. The Spectacled Salamander is thought to be the most ancient type of salamander in Europe, having evolved into this separate lineage over 60 million years ago. The range of the Italian Crested Newt extends a bit beyond Italy to the northeast. This is, like other crested newts, a strictly aquatic species and occupies ditches, cattle troughs and flooded fields. The Fire Salamander (interestingly not a separate subspecies) is among the more showy amphibians. It leads a hidden life near small, forested streams and pools, but comes out during and after rainy spells, generally at night. Still more secretive are Ambrosi’s Cave and Italian Cave Salamanders. In contrast to what their names imply, they are not exclusively cave dwellers, rather, they prefer cool, damp and shady places in general, whether they are rock cavities, mossy rock walls, caves and under logs in humid oak and beech forests. These two closely related salamanders are again unique, local endemics. Ambrosi’s Cave Salamander occupies a small

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area in northwestern Tuscany and east of the La Magra River in Liguria. The Italian Cave Salamander has a distribution along the Apennine range that extends from the Apuan Alps to the Abruzzo region and occupies a similar habitat. More widespread are Smooth and Alpine Newts. Both prefer still water with lots of water plants, including in agricultural landscapes though Alpine Newts occur in hilly and mountainous areas, including in mountain lakes. The huge toad you sometimes encounter in the evening, in a variety of habitats from ponds to dry scrub and dunes as well as forests and subalpine meadows is the Common Toad. Its high-pitched squeaking sounds vaguely resemble the call of European Coot. Smaller and colourfully marked with green spots is the Green Toad which has a preference for warm, dry lowland areas with sandy soils, including macchia and dunes. The even smaller Yellow-bellied Toad is aquatic and occupies temporary habitats such as flooded wheel ruts, drainage ditches, cattle troughs as well as small slow-moving streams in the mountains. Its back is warty and brown or grey, but it has a bright orangey-yellow colour on its underside. The pupils of this handsome little toad are interesting too – a pure heart shape. Another near endemic is the Italian Tree Frog, a widespread inhabitant of a variety of water habitats from garden ponds to lakes or river backwaters, as well as brambles and trees. It is most commonly heard, giving a fast series of high-pitched sharp metallic clicking calls at night. The Tyrrhenian Tree Frog is limited to Elba and Capraia Islands in Tuscany (although

FLORA AND FAUNA

Tuscany is rich in salamanders, including several endemic species, such as Italian Cave Salamander (top) and Northern Spectacled Salamander (bottom).

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Among the many butterflies to be found in the mountains are Piedmont Ringlet (top left) Apollo (top right) and Scarce Copper (bottom)

of around 1500m in summer, you can expect to find Marbled, Silky, Autumn and Almond Ringlet as well as more widespread species like Piedmont Ringlet. The Apollo, one of the continent’s largest and most impressive butterflies is accompanied by two relatives of the ringlets: the Great Sooty Satyr and Northern Brown Argus, plus another range of blues and fritillaries, including Turquoise and Chalkhill Blues. These mountain species are supplemented with more widespread species like Silver-studded, Mazarine and Small Blues, Dingy Skipper and Niobe Fritillary. On hot days you might find some mud-puddling groups of dozens of butterflies on the ground. These are usually males collecting nutrients as present for the females during the mating. They are a perfect way to see a good diversity of species, sitting neatly together, perfect for comparison. Particularly blues group together like this, but there are usually other species among them as well. It is worth strolling around stony, south-facing grasslands, to search for sheltering Hermit, Large Wall Brown and Grayling, while on the damper meadows, Swallowtail, Clouded Yellow and Black-veined White are on the wing.

The coast and Tuscan archipelago

The Mediterranean climate of the Tuscan coast suits a number of attractive butterflies that are rare or absent deeper inland. Areas with Strawberry Trees form the habitat of the splendid Two-tailed Pasha,

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which is most abundant towards the end of summer. The very lucky may find a Plain Tiger, an essentially African species that is closely related to the Monarch. It has a rather erratic occurrence, appearing to be entirely absent in some years. The Tuscan Archipelago, due to the long period of isolation, holds a good number of endemic butterflies – species that are unique to these islands or, in some cases, shared only with nearby Corsica. The latter point is not surprising, given their proximity to both Corsica and Tuscany. Corsica shares approximately 70 species with one or more of the islands. Even the Elban Heath is not restricted to the eponymous island, but also flies on Giglio and Monte Argentario. Studies revealed that the fauna of Capraia and Montecristo have a closer relationship with Corsica than the other islands, which are more closely related to Tuscany. That might explain the occurrence of Corsican Heath and Corsican Wall Brown on these islands. Of course, there are exceptions, the Corsican Grayling is present on both Capraia and Elba whilst the Corsican species Bellier’s Blue is absent on the two outer islands but does show up on the higher summits of Elba (Mt Capanne and Mt. Maolo). The Villa’s Blue (a subspecies of Belliers Blue) is the only true endemic occurring exclusively on Elba. Indeed, within the Tuscany Archipelago, Elba has the greatest diversity of butterflies – 55 species. As a comparison, Monte Argentario on the mainland coast has ‘only’ 44. These islands host Eastern Dappled White, Green-underside Blue, Heath Fritillary and Tree Grayling. Two-tailed Pasha, Southern Gatekeeper, Southern Grayling and Mediterranean Skipper are widespread in the Archipelago as well as along the mainland coast. Last but not least, Large Tortoiseshell occurs in deciduous forests on Elba.

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The Southern Grayling is a Tyrrhenian endemic which can be found on Elba and Giglio. Much more restricted is the range of the Elban Heath, which is endemic to the island it is named after.

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Dragonflies and damselflies

From early April until deep into autumn the rivers and marshes are alive with dragonflies. Fast, colourful and large, these feisty predators never cease to amaze. Most dragonfly species have a preference for a more or less specific type of water. The brackish lagoons on the coast, standing freshwater lakes, rivers and streams, each have their own specific dragonfly fauna. The vast majority of Tuscany’s dragonfly species are rather widespread European or Mediterranean species, but there are some highly attractive rarities, such as Bladetail and Black Pennant. Like in other species groups, the dragonfly fauna shows its typical Tuscan mix of temperate, southwest-European and southeast-European species (see 71). Typical southwestern specialties come in the form of Orangespotted Emerald and Western Spectre while Balkan Emerald and the aforementioned Bladetail are typical representatives of the east. Bladetail The Bladetail is one of a kind as it is (distantly) related to the clubtails (Gomphus). It is a rather large dragonfly with a long but very thin abdomen that ends in what looks like the blade of an axe. It is a very localised species in its entire southeast European and central Asian range. Tuscany forms (thus far) its northwestern limit. Bladetails prefer standing, reed-fringed waters that warm up quickly. The dragonfly itself is often found hunting over open land (nearby fields, trails and trail edges) where it frequently lands on the ground. The Bladetail is one of the dragonflies that is currently expanding its range as the climate is warming up. It is a strong flyer that recently even colonised remote islands like Crete and Sardinia. It is also quick to colonise man-made reservoirs, artificial lakes and marshes, so keep an eye out in any of these habitats in Tuscany, as you might just discover a new population of Bladetails.

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Dragonflies of lakes and other standing waters

The lower sections of the rivers and their oxbow lakes form one of the great dragonfly habitats. Dragonflies lay their eggs in the water but frequently hunt over tracks or along forest edges in the vicinity of the water, and that’s where they are most easily seen. The bulk of dragonflies of Tuscany, both in number and in kind, are widespread European species, such as Blue-eyed and Green-eyed Hawkers and a variety of darters (including the Southern Darter, which is a Mediterranean species). Blue and Lesser Emperors are common, sometimes joined by Vagrant Emperor that, true to its name, ‘invades’ the area only in some years from its permanent locations in Africa. Most of the above dragonflies are present in late spring and summer. Earlier in the year, Hairy Hawker, Broad-bodied Chaser and Four-spotted Chaser can be found in the lower river section. Some dragonflies do particularly well in the shallower waters, which warm up quickly in spring. Among them are two ‘Mediterranean’ beauties: the Broad Scarlet (with its flaming red abdomen) and Violet Dropwing, (males have an intense violet colour and red-veined wings). Due to the changing climate, both of these have recently occupied new territories – the Broad Scarlet was a Mediterranean species but is now common in temperate Europe, whilst and the Violet Dropwing was an African species that recently added the Mediterranean region to its range. The group of blue (males) and yellow (females) dragonflies known as skimmers are well-represented too. The familiar Black-tailed Skimmer can be found pretty much everywhere. The much smaller Keeled Skimmer frequents shallow waters that warm up quickly, while the Southern Skimmer prefers very shallow, running water that is almost without vegetation, such as spots with seeping water or ditches.

Dragonflies of rivers and streams

The mid-section rivers, where water flows permanently, have a different set of dragonflies. Here the rules of the game are dictated by the presence or absence of shade, the strength of the current and the amount of oxygen in the water. From May until summer, the demoiselles are most

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Though not the most impressive looking dragonfly, the Black Pennant is one of the ‘goodies’ of Tuscany, because it is a very localised species that has its main distribution range in the steppes and deserts of North Africa and the Near East.

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In this part of the guidebook, we provide routes and sites in TusROUTE INFO cany. We’ve selected the routes to feature the region’s different habitats and give you the best chance to find the birds, mammals, In each of the reptiles, amphibians, butterflies, dragonflies, orchids and other routes, the length flora. Some of these places are little visited, whilst others are popis given of the car ular. Although tranquility is a factor in choosing the itineraries, it drive / bicycle ride, is wildlife, scenery and quality of habitat that predominantly guidand the difficulty ed our selections. The routes form a mix of walks and car routes refers to the walk‘with stops-and-strolls’. The walks vary in difficulty and length. ing sections. Tuscany is far too large to cover from a single base or in a single trip. Instead, we advise you to choose a region or two and spend several days in that area. We have grouped our itineraries into five regions. In addition, from page 250-251 we provide information and observation tips for visitors. The first section (pages 124-141) covers three islands of the Tuscan archipelago that are easily visited and represent its rich flora and fauna. The second section (pages 142-170) covers Southwestern Tuscany featuring some of the finest and wildest coasts of the province, most notably the Maremma and nearby coastal marshes such as Orbetello. Together with the Tuscan archipelago, this is where climate and wildlife have the most distinct Mediterranean character. The third section (pages 171-194) covers routes Northwestern Tuscany, where the Apuan Alps and adjacent coastal plain form the main components. The fourth section (pages 195-210) covers Northeastern Tuscany, where the Apennine Mountains provide a much more ‘continental feel’, with large oak and beech forests, which contrast sharply with the plain of Florence, with its inland freshwater marshes. The fifth and final section (pages 211-237) covers Southeastern Tuscany. This is where most of Tuscany’s famous landscape is found, with its hilltop towns, its farms and its cypress lanes. This is the land of Siena and Montepulciano, as well as a portion of the Apennine Mountains. While the selected routes are all worth exploring and arguably brings you to the best places, there is much more to discover. Hence, we recommend venturing beyond the routes in this book. In fact, a portion of the sites we describe are places we stumbled upon by chance, simply because we Discovering the decided to take a different back road. And if it isn’t wildlife that commands Apennine Mountain’s your attention, you are almost certain to find some pretty village or excel- extensive beech forest lent restaurant. This is, after all, Tuscany. on foot.

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Routes in the Tuscan Archipelago

The Tuscan archipelago consists of seven islands and Gorgona numerous islets. The three volterra largest islands can be easily sienna visited: Capraia (route 1), Elba (route 2) and Giglio (route 3). They are best explored on multi-day trip and the selected Capraia ‘routes’ feature the best sites that will keep you busy for at 1 piombino least 2 days on each island. All of the islands have a Medigrosseto terranean climate and supElba 4 port a flora and fauna with 2 many species not found on the 5 mainland, such as Marmora’s Pianosa Warbler, Corsican Finch and porto santo a variety of plants and butterstefano flies. From the ferry, you have 3 Monte 6-7 good chances to see seabirds Giglio Montecristo Argentario (mostly shearwaters), whales and dolphins. All three islands offer stunning scenery and share many species, but are Overview of the Tuscan archipelago. nonetheless quite different from one another. Capraia, in the north, is The numbers refer size-wise in the middle position. It is the wildest of the three, consists of to the routes from volcanic rock and lies the furthest from the mainland, but close to Corsica. the following page It can only be truly explored on foot. It is a hotspot for bird migration with onwards. potential for interesting vagrants. Elba is the largest of the Tuscan Islands. You reach it from the little town of Piombino that sits on a hill that juts into the sea. Elba is just an hour by ferry but you can’t do it justice in a single day visit. It is the most diverse island, and due to the extensive areas of limestone, it has many orchids and a good number of butterflies. Elba features lovely coastal routes as well as more rigorous walks up to Monte Capanne. Giglio is the smallest and southernmost of the easily accessible islands and lies a little off Monte Argentario (route 7). Giglio is easily visited on a day trip although an overnight stay will allow for exploring the more remote southern tip and offers the chance to spot the harder-to-find Audouin’s Gull and Tyrrhenian Painted Frog. livorno

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

ROUTE 1: CAPRAIA

Route 1: Capraia

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TWO DAYS MODERATE The wildest of the accessible Tuscan Islands. Lovely walking in macchia with stunning scenery. Habitats: coastal cliffs, open sea, Mediterranean macchia, evergreen forest Selected species: Bottlenose Dolphin, Yelkouan Shearwater, Scopoli’s Shearwater, Marmora’s Warbler, Corsican Finch, migratory songbirds, Leaf-toed Gecko, Tyrrhenian Tree Frog, Corsican Wall Brown, Two-tailed Pasha, Straightflowered Tongue Orchid

Capraia is the wildest of the three readily accessible Tuscan islands and lies the furthest from the mainland. It is in fact much closer to Corsica than to Italy. It features cliffs and rocky beaches along with a mix of macchia and evergreen woodlands featuring several island endemics. Capraia is a great place for watching birds. Three sought-after species are most easily found here than anywhere else in the Tuscan archipelago: Corsican Finch (a common resident), Tyrrhenian Spotted Flycatcher (an abundant summer visitor) and Yelkouan Shearwater (which is fairly common off the coast). Additionally, it is a great place for a wide range of migrating birds, including vagrants. Butterfly lovers will find Capraia of interest too as one can find Corsican Heath, Corsican Wall Brown and Corsican Grayling here – all restricted to the Tyrrhenian islands. Capraia is small but there are hardly any roads and non-residents are not

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Reaching Capraia Toremar (www.toremar.it) serves Capraia from the Port Livorno, at least once daily (more often in the high season). The journey takes 2 hours and 45 minutes and costs about 23 Euros per person. There is no point bringing a car as there are virtually no roads on the island. Travelling on Capraia Capraia is a walker’s island. There is a local bus from the harbour to the town (800 m), which is perhaps helpful if you have luggage. Hiking is easy, but be prepared for high temperatures in summer. There are excellent opportunities to do boat excursions around the island, but most are not specialised in natural history. Check carefully in advance what the program is and if it is worthwhile for people with a wildlife interest.

allowed to bring a car. This means you have to walk. This, combined with the two-hour ferry trip (one way) means that it is recommendable to reserve two days for a trip to Capraia.

Starting point Livorno harbour

From the ferry, look for both Yelkouan and Scopoli’s Shearwaters. In contrast to the crossings to the other islands, Yelkouan Shearwater is most common in these waters. Capraia lies in the midst of the huge Pelagos marine reserve (see page 33), which is a hotspot for marine mammals. Bottlenose Dolphin is the most common cetacean, but Striped Dophin are also present in the area. Approaching the port, look for Shag and gulls – you have a rare chance to see Audouin’s Gull here.

Capraia’s backcountry features plentiful macchia, gariga and cliffs.

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ROUTE 1: CAPRAIA

Once you arrive, and depending on your time of arrival, you can either opt to take the island loop hike (12 km), or choose to visit points 2, 7, and 8, and tackle the loop on a full day. From the port it is a short walk or bus ride up the hill into the town. Walk through town on Via Carlo Alberto till you reach the fort and take a right down the hill about 150 m.

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During migration it is worth making frequent visits to the field (helicopter pad, soccer pitch) just to look for various migrants including waders (if there is standing water), pipits, wagtails, wheatears, Redrumped Swallow, swifts, and many others, potentially including interesting rarities. This field is also a good orchid site, look for Small-flowered Tongue Orchid and the rare Straight-flowered Tongue Orchid* (Serapias strictiflora). Continue past the fields and follow the trail toward Cala dello Zurletto (a small beach) but in 350 m continue straight where the trail goes left down to the beach.

This stretch can be productive in April for orchids, including Denseflowered Orchid, Violet Limodore and Heart-flowered Tongue Orchid.

Continue straight on and you will cross a small stream (in season) where Tyrrhenian Tree Frog, an endemic to Corsica, Sardinia, plus Capraia and Elba, is possible in the riparian vegetation. In about 1.2 km the trail will arrive at a T-Junction where you turn left. If you want to return to town, you can turn right.

The island loop hike is about 12 km and takes about 3-4 hours depending on your pace and fitness, The uphill sections are moderately difficult. This hike takes you into Capraia’s backcountry (careful – there is little shade and it can be very hot is summer). The trail works its way through a stretch of well-developed Mediterranean macchia with Strawberry Tree, Mastic and Tree Heath. Look for Italian Wall Lizard, Two-tailed Pasha and Corsican Heath along the trail in the warmer season. Introduced Mouflon

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Corsican Finch is easily found on Capraia. It is an endemic bird shared only with Corsica and other nearby islands.

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Routes in the Maremma and southwest Tuscany

Vista from the Maremma Park’s limestone Uccellina Range across the pine and macchia bottomlands.

The Maremma stretches out along the Tyrrhenian Sea from Livorno towards the south covering a large portion of southwestern Tuscany. It continues outside our region into the province of Lazio. The heart of the Maremma is a coastal plain that was marshland before it was drained and converted into agricultural land. While reduced dramatically, there are several superb wetlands such as the Diaccia Botrona (route 4), Orbetello Lagoon (route 6) and Lago di Burano (site C on page 169). They form some of the best birdwatching sites in Tuscany. Close to these wetlands are several small mountain ranges and peninsulas clad in evergreen Mediterranean forest, which together with the wetlands makes the coast of southern Tuscany such an attractive wildlife destination. The Maremma Regional Park (route 5) and the rocky peninsula of Monte Argentario (route 7) are among the finest examples of Mediterranean forest on mainland Tuscany. Being close to the shore, these forests can be full of birds during migration. In spring, these are some of the best areas for Mediterranean orchid species. The offshore islands of Elba and Giglio (route 2 and 3 respectively) are reached from ports in the Maremma. Hills with woodlands, fields and meadows characterise the landscape further inland. Within this area, the dry, karstic Monte Labbro stands out as a wildlife destination (route 8), particularly for its flora, butterflies and birds of dry, rocky grasslands.

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CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

ROUTE 4: SAN FELICE FOREST AND DIACCIA BOTRONA WETLAND

Route 4: San Felice and Diaccia Botrona wetland

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5 HOURS, 26 KM EASY Coastal dunes, pine forest and wetlands. One of the best sites for waders and other water birds. Habitats: pine forest, macchia, dunes, beaches and saltwater and freshwater marshes Selected species: Common Crane, Greater Flamingo, Purple Heron, Squacco Heron, Spoonbill, Osprey, Hen Harrier (winter), Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Black-tailed Godwit, Slender-billed Gull, Little Tern, Roller, Moustached Warbler, Pink Butterfly-Orchid, Small-flowered Tongue Orchid, Early Spider Orchid, Western Green Lizard

This route will take you through a number of outstanding coastal sites. This first one is a WWF reserve, called Oasis San Felice, an area of extensive coastal woodlands and dunes. It lies just on the northern side of the San Leopoldo Channel, a channel created in the nineteenth century to drain the nearby wetlands. The pine forest includes an understory of Mediterranean macchia with a mix of orchids. The second site is one of Tuscany’s best coastal birding spots and features good birding throughout the seasons. These large wetlands are open without restriction yearround and feature a good diversity of open water and marsh birds. Being on a main migratory route, the bird diversity is highest in spring and (slightly less so) autumn – times in which vagrants and rarities often turn up.

Starting Point The small attractive coastal community of Castiglione della Pescaia (GPS: 42.763814, 10.884320). Drive south on the coastal road or the Collacchie (SP158) for 6.9 km and go left onto Strada della Canova, note the blue sign for parking, and in 50 m. take a right into the parking area (GPS: 42.738832, 10.960565). If coming from

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the south – the parking turnoff is the first right after you cross over Emissario San Leopoldo (canal). There are two entrances from the parking area, from the northern end you can use the pedestrian crossing to the pine woodlands. Note that during July and August and on weekends it will be very crowded with beachgoers.

There are multiple paths through the woodlands and it is easy to make a loop returning to the parking area after walking out to the beach. Any of the the trails will take you through pinewoods with Umbrella and Maritime Pines with an understory of Mediterranean Buckthorn, False Olive, Mastic and Rosemary. In (early) Spring, be on the lookout for orchids – Early Spider Bertoloni’s, Pink Butterfly and Small-flowered Tongue Orchids have been found here among the flowers of Spotted Rock-rose, Coris and Field Gladiolus. Listen for the occasional explosive call of Cetti’s Warbler, the mesmerising song of the Nightingale and the hypnotising purring of Turtle Dove. Green Woodpeckers are common but for Rollers you need to be luckier (look on the forest edge). Along the waterway on the southern end of the Oasis, Little Egret, Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, Common Sandpiper, Sand and House Martins can be spotted.

The expansive vistas of the Diaccia Botrona wetlands.

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Black-winged Stilts are widespread and common in these marshes.

Once at the dunes, look for wildflowers in the open patches between the Phoenician Junipers. Besides the familiar Sea Rocket, Sea Bindweed and Sea Holly, there is a number of Mediterranean specialties like Prickly Parsnip, Curry Plant and various medicks. Once at the beach it’s worth scanning for Sandwich Tern and both Yelkouan and Scopoli’s Shearwater. Return to the car park and drive (or cycle) for 6.7 km back towards Castiglione della Pescaia. Take a right onto the road just before the road crosses the Fiume Bruna (there is a small sign pointing right to Casa Ximenes). Follow the road to where it is blocked by a gate and turn right into a car park (GPS: 42.768747, 10.899477). Walk the unpaved path to Casa Ximenes (Thursdaypark Sunday from 14:30 to 17:30) which houses a small historical museum, the path to the wetlands passes under a brick structure. In about 100 m beyond the Casa Ximenes you will reach a hide overlooking the wetlands.

Situated on the Diaccia Botrona wetlands’ western side, this hide is best visited from mid-day onward. Depending on water conditions, there can often be flocks of waders, gulls and terns fairly close to the hide. More typically the large flocks of Spoonbill, Ibis, Egrets and waterfowl will be further out and are best seen with a spotting scope. A Greater Spotted Eagle has wintered in the area in recent years.

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Spoonbill numbers have increased and large flocks can often be found at the Diaccia Botrona wetlands. Fighting Malaria In the 18th century the Lago di Castiglione covered more than 50 km2 and was a source of malaria that plagued the area. The Grand Duke of Tuscany Leopoldo II commissioned Leonardo Ximenes, a Jesuit mathematician, to develop a plan to drain the lake in order to eradicate the malaria. Ximenes believed that it was the miasma (contagious air) from the stagnant marshes that caused malaria (the name literally means ‘bad air’). He believed that malaria could form when freshwater and saltwater mix and so he built the gates at the Casa Ximenes to keep the fresh and saltwater separate. The house now a museum, which rests on three arches, that has been completely restored and the machinery for operating the sluices.

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Return and drive out to the main road. Go right to cross the river and then another right toward Grosseto. Keep heading for Grosetto through Castiglione della Pescaia. Once out of the village, the road follows the river’s north bank. Just before the small hamlet of Ponti di Badia you’ll see a bridge on your right and a sign indicating Isola Clodia. Cross the river here and follow the unpaved road for about 500 m. to a small parking area (42.784669, 10.946317). Leave nothing valuable visible in your vehicle.

Before starting the loop walk, look at the low hill just south. It is the former island, Isola Clodia and was the villa retreat of wealthy Romans, reach7 able only by boat. What remains of the original Roman villa lies hidden beneath a Medieval monastery and is occasionally open for guided tours.

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ROUTE 4: SAN FELICE FOREST AND DIACCIA BOTRONA WETLAND

From the parking site, walk the path leading west and walk the out and back on the map.

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The northeast side of the Diaccia Botrona is much less visited and provides both access to reed habitat as well as two hides overlooking different parts of the wetlands. Along the canal listen for Moustached Warbler. The path will lead to a hide for a view across the wetlands, look for Kingfisher, Zitting Cisticola and Reed Warbler as well.

You can extend your walk by following a track south along the wetlands. It provides additional views of ducks, waders and raptors. The fields to the east of the parking area also are worth scanning in the winter months for geese (including Greylag and White-fronted), Common Crane and raptors. Because of hunting pressure, having a spotting ‘scope is preferred as birds tend to keep their distance, especially waterfowl.

From the parking area, the unpaved road to the east is worth exploring during the winter months for geese, cranes and raptors. Use caution during wet conditions to avoid becoming stuck.

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Casa Ximenes was originally built to manage the mixing of salt and fresh water in an effort to fight malaria.

ROUTE 19: VALDARNO

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Route 19: Valdarno FUL DAY, 40 KM EASY-MODERATE Picturesque valley with woodlands, riparian marshes and impressive landscapes. Interesting geology and a fine birdlife. Habitats: fields, oak woodland, river and riparian woodland, freshwater marshes Selected species: Squacco Heron, Night Heron, Pygmy Cormorant, Shorttoed Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Kingfisher, Bee-eater, Northern Spectacled Salamander, Early Spider Orchid, Vagrant Emperor

The Valdarno basin is sandwiched between the Chianti Botriolo Mountains to the west and 1 the Pratomagno chain to monte marciano the east. The picturesque Arno River flows through san san giustino giovanni it, making the Valdarno a valdarno terranuova fabled landscape that is ofcigogna ten featured in Renaissance castiglion 2-4 montevarchi art. Today, the Valdarno 5 ponte greets you as a pleasant, buriano laterino case al hilly landscape with a series piano of small streams emptying 6-7 into the upper Arno River. Small-scale agriculture and indicatore 0 5 km towns occur on the flatlands, forests cover the hillsides. Rather special are the odd rock pinnacles in the heart of the basin, which indicate that the Valdarno has a fascinating geology (see text box). This route explores the area in a car trip that connects three short walks. On the first, it is the scenery that attracts, with the weird and spectacular rock formations of Le Balze. The second trail follows the wooded hills along one of the Arno’s tributaries, whilst the third holds some fine wetlands along the Arno and one of its tributaries. The latter two are excellent for birds in spring. castelfranco piandisco

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La Balze’s dramatic towers provide nesting habitat for raptors, martins and Beeeaters. castelfranco piandisco

Starting point Hamlet of Botriolo (GPS: 43.606942, 11.543605). Botriolo lies halfway between Florence and Arezzo, just botriolo park east of the E35 motorway on SP8. As you approach the town from the south, turn right onto an unpaved road in the direction of Località Riguzze and drive about 400 m to a wide area to park. From here you can walk the unpaved road in the direction ofSorgente dell’acqua Zolfina through the open landscape with the dramatic rock formations on your left.

The rocks and pinnacles of Le Balze rise up to 100 m from the otherwise gentle hillside. As the layers of sand, clay, and gravel of the ancient lakebed were washed away (see boxed text), an eroded landscape of wildly shaped cliffs and monoliths interspersed with deep ravines remained. It is about a 1.6 km walk to the Sorgente dell’acqua Zolfina (spring source) which shows the rocks at their best. The unpaved road follows a small stream with ample Elder and Alder and in several places by a forested hillside. The formations host a large colony of Bee-eaters as well as Peregrine and Kestrel.

The formation of the Valdarno graben The Valdarno valley is a ‘graben’ – an elongated depression, like a rift valley, that formed in the collision zone of the African and European tectonic plates. When the pressure from the collision relaxed, the Valdarno graben started to sink and a lake formed. This lake is long gone, but at Le Balze, the ancient lakebed has eroded leaving behind distinctive formations. When it was formed, the Valdarno graben was surrounded by luxuriant tropical forests. As the climate became much dryer and hotter, the area was transformed into a savannah replete with a host of new animals: elephants, rhinos, hippos, tigers, monkeys, and hyenas. The Paleontological Museum in Montevarchi has a collection of fossils of plants and animals from this era (approximately 2 million years ago).

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Leave Botriolo in the direction of Santa Maria/Badiola on SP8 and then follow SP7 toward Penna, where you turn onto SP6 which will take you through a lovely valley with some of the same eroded towers as in Le Balze. This is a narrow road but very scenic. As you reach Penna go right onto the SP5 (direction Terranuova Bracciolini) and at the next roundabout take the 3rd exit toward Arezzo and after 4.9 km go right towards Monticello. After another 3 km you’ll reach Monticello where you bear left and continue for 400m going straight onto the unpaved road (signposted for Approdo di Bandella). Follow this road down the hill and park in 1.3 km on the north side of the bridge (GPS: 43.510630, 11.657515).

First have a look from the bridge up the Ascione stream just above where it flows the reservoir. The Arno’s reservoir is labelled Lago di Lèvane on 4 Google. Even though these reed and rush marshes are small and are surrounded by woodland, they are park excellent for wetland birds. Look for Squacco and 2 Night Herons, Little Egret, Water Rail, Little Grebe 3 A rn o and Kingfisher. This is of course a good site for riparian woodland species including Melodious and Cetti’s Warbler, Nightingale, Green and Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Golden Oriole and Turtle Dove.

On foot, cross the bridge and after 50 m. follow the trail to the right for 100 m. to overlook at a shallow water area for the same birds (or waders, when the shore is dry). Return to the road and cross it to follow ‘Trail B’ (4 km; 1.15 h).

This trail leads up the Ascione Valley through riparian forest along the wetlands and then through open fields and wooded areas uphill to where the paved road ended. Once the path reaches the open field it is not well marked and we advise you to return via the same route. The walk leads through typical lowland riparian woodland of the type that has become rare in Tuscany and which features a nice variety of amphibians, reptiles and birds. The humid ravines host mixed woodlands with Turkey Oak, Hornbeam and Elm, while along banks and on south-facing slopes it is more common to find Holm and Downy Oaks. Of particular interest is the presence of Northern Spectacled Salamander, an Italian endemic, which is sometimes seen on damp days and evenings, especially

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ROUTE 19: VALDARNO

in spring. In addition, keep an eye out for Grass, Dice and Aesculapian Snakes. The meadows and pasture provide foraging grounds for Black Kite, Short-toed Eagle and Honey Buzzard. Italian Festoon is among the common butterflies along the path.

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Leaving the Reserve, drive further along the road in an easterly direction and after 1 km, go right onto Via Piandichena. After another 1.3 km take a left onto the SP2 (Vecchia Aretina), and drive 5.4 km till you see a sign for the Toscana Verde hotel. There is a lay-by on the north side of the road (GPS: 43.509028, 11.736361).

This is a quick orchid stop you shouldn’t miss out on when you are here in April-May. There is a wonderful display of mostly Green-winged and Early Spider Orchids in the olive orchard on the north side of the road as well as on the hotel grounds and adjacent roadside. Drive 2.9 km further on the the SP 2 Vecchia Aretina and take the first exit at the roundabout onto SP 1. Drive 5.2 km over the Ponte Buriano bridge and take the first unpaved road right (there is a bus stop at the same point). Drive 100 m and park on the shoulder just before the gate on your right (GPS: 43.499440, 11.805412).

This is the start of a 4 km walk along a path across the Canale Maestro della Chianna to the Riserva Naturale Ponte a Buriano e Penna. The canal was part of the engineering works to divert water in the Chianna Valley from draining into the Tiber. The reeds, willow bushes and muddy shores harbour a rich birdlife. The bridge provides an excellent view up and down the canal, where you can look for Night Heron, Kingfisher and waders. The poplars lining the canal are a good spot for Golden Oriole, Hobby and migrants in spring. Continue on the path bearing right at the T-junction. You pass a field and in another 1.2 km, you’ll reach the confluence of the canal and the Arno River.

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Bee-eaters nest in large colonies such as the sandy towers of La Balze.

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This is an area with reedbeds, part of the Riserva Naturale Ponte a Buriano e Penna on the Arno river close to La Penna reservoir. Look for Pygmy Cormorant, Squacco and Night Herons, Great, Little and Cattle park Egrets, Great Crested and Little Grebe and Kingfisher. The adjacent riparian forest supports Lesser Spotted and 6 Green Woodpeckers, Cetti’s and Melodious Warblers, Golden Oriole, Turtle Dove, Black Kite, and Hobby. Further on, you see the Ponte Buriano, the famous seven arched stone bridge built in 1277 that is reputed to be in the background of Leonardo’s Mona Lisa (though there is another locality that makes the same claim).

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Ponte Buriano

Return via the same way.

Additional Site La Penna Reservoir

Canale Maestro (top) is a lovely popular lined canal attractive year-round, it’s confluence with the Arno River (bottom) creates a freshwater wetland.

During the winter months, there are two good sites for birdwatching at the La Penna reservoir, including wintering waterfowl and gulls. To reach it from Ponte Buriano, follow the SP 1 in the direction of Arezzo and turn right at the roundabout to the junction with SR69 which connects Arezzo with the A1 motorway. Take a right at GPS: 43.484843, 11.748105. This turn is not marked (if you reach the town of Ponticino, you’ve gone too far). Cross under the electric wires and follow the unpaved road approximately 2 km down to the La Penna Reservoir.

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ROUTE 20: VAL D'ORCIA

Route 20: Val d'Orcia

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FULL DAY 78 KM The classic Tuscan landscape. Rich birdlife of dry arable land, especially during migration. Habitats: fields, riparian forest Selected species: Short-toed Eagle, Montagu’s Harrier, Hobby, Roller, Beeeater, Hoopoe, Stone Curlew, Lesser Kestrel, Red-footed Falcon pienza

1 san quirico

SR2

Bagno Vignoni

famous zigzag lane

SP53

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Fiume Orci

SP18

SR2

gallina

6 5

7 SP40

2 km

The Val d'Orcia is known worldwide for its hilltop towns (like Pienza, Montalcino, and, most famously Montepulciano. It is also known for its award-winning wines and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004. Between these towns lies a rolling countryside of fields, cypresslined roads and broad river valleys that form the classic Tuscan landscape. Much less known is that this area is also a remarkably rich area for birds, particularly in spring. The open landscape provides habitat for a wide range of raptors (Common and Lesser Kestrel, Short-toed Eagle, various harriers and, although very rare, Lanner). Little Owl, Roller, Stone Curlew and Crested Lark are other species of dry arable land you may find here.

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TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS Travel Reaching Tuscany

Whether you come in your own car, by train, bus or plane, getting to Tuscany is easy. Drivers will find that the region is well-connected by the Italian autostrada and thus to the network of good European motorways. From Milan, Munich and Verona and points north, the Italian main north-south rail line stops in Florence and Arezzo. Coastal Tuscany is served by a slower train line from Rome or Genova and the French coast. For train tickets and departures, check www.trenitalia.com or www.italotreno.it, if you travel on the main Milan-Rome line. Two airports, Florence and Pisa, have direct flights to many European cities.

Travelling in Tuscany by public transportation

Once on the ground, choosing transportation may depend on where you would like to go. Renting a car is easy though relatively expensive. There are hubs near airports and main train stations. The regional rail network is inexpensive and while slower than the intercity or highspeed lines they serve smaller cities and towns. For train tickets and departures, check the abovementioned websites (or download Italian train app Trenit! onto your phone). Renting a vehicle as you need it can be another option as car hire offices can be found in many locations served by trains. Bicycle rental is quite common in Tuscany, and except in the smallest towns, you will likely find one or more rental shops. You can also take your own bicycle on the regional and intercity trains with the bicycle symbol on the schedule, but not on the high-speed train unless disassembled. Tuscany has a fairly extensive bus network though not all small towns are served and schedules may not be convenient. Bus tickets are relatively cheap. For tickets and departures, check either Autolinee toscane (via their website www.at-bus.it/en or the app ‘at bus’) or Tiemmespa (www.tiemmespa.it). With these trains and buses, you are usually not yet where you want to be. Reaching the natural areas described in this book, you need to continue by a car or a bicycle.

Travelling in Tuscany by car

Most visitors, particularly those interested in visiting the countryside, and specifically sites in this guide, will want to go by car. The autostradas and main highways that cross Tuscany are generally in excellent condition but can be crowded during the summer holiday season, especially around the dreaded Ferragosto (August 15) which TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS

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is the semi-official start of the summer holiday season. Coastal highways and by-ways are often crowded in July through early September. In and around the main cities, traffic can be quite congested during the morning and afternoon commute. On the main roads, it can be a challenge finding a place to pull over safely, when you spot something of interest. Italian drivers are used to travelling quickly on their roads, so don’t be surprised to find a driver inches from your back bumper waiting for an opportunity to pass. Relieve your stress and let them pass – they’re not likely to want to stop to view wildflowers on the roadside, so they will probably be frantically on your tail until you allow them to take over. Fortunately, there are plenty of quiet backroads. In fact, Tuscany has a great network of small roads (paved and unpaved) that are excellent for exploring the countryside. Electric vehicle charging stations are starting to become more common, but you’d be well advised to research charging locations when you do your route planning. Your national automobile organisation (AA/ADAC/ANWB/VAB etc.) will probably have or is developing a route planner for electric cars with recharging stations. Alternatively, go to Google Maps and search for ‘EV chargers nearby’.

Planning your trip When to go

Tuscany with its varied topography, coast and mountains is a year-round destination. For natural history, mid-April through June and September till mid-October are likely the best months, but any month can be a delight.

December to February

Due to its Mediterranean coast, the ‘dead of winter’ isn’t dead at all. The coastal wetlands are very much alive with tens of thousands of wintering birds at Lago di Massaciuccoli, Diaccia Botrona, the Trappola wetlands in the Maremma and at Laguna di Orbetello. Geese, ducks, flamingos, cranes and waders are all plentiful. Rarities like Spotted Eagle and Booted Eagle may be found. Common wintering passerines include, besides the widespread north-European birds, also some Alpine species, like Wallcreeper, Rock Thrush, White-winged Snowfinch and Alpine Accentor. Tawny and Little Owls are very vocal at night. Sea watches at coastal promontories and river mouths may yield Gannets, divers, grebes and other winter surprises (top sites: Serchio River mouth, Orbetello). On the Mediterranean islands there is a modest display of wildflowers. Particularly towards the end of winter (February and March) several orchids come to bloom, some of which cannot be found later in spring. Note that in this period, most tourist places are rather quiet and most restaurants are closed. CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

March – early April

Spring is in the air, especially in the lowlands. The days start warming up. Sunny weather is the default condition, though wind and rain are still frequent. Winter birds remain till about mid- March, which is also when the first wildflowers emerge on the mainland. Migrants start to appear with waders beginning to move and wintering birds such as thrushes and finches are leaving. Great Spotted Cuckoos show up in small numbers on the coast in late March (this is the best time to see them), together with more widespread birds like Hoopoe, Scops Owl and Serin. At this time, the movement of short-distance migrants (e.g. thrushes, stonechats, robins and finches) is most intense, especially on the islands. If you are fond of uncommon species, by the end of the month you will find singing Moustached Warblers and some early Savi’s in the reedbeds of Massaciuccoli and Fucecchio marshes. In mid- to late March the first ‘wave’ of the Ophrys Orchids are in bloom. Higher in the mountains spring will come later but owls, woodpeckers and thrushes can be heard.

April

Tuscany is alive with anemones, sowbreads (Cyclamen), hellebores as well as many orchids, particularly on the Mediterranean coastal plain. Woodlands are verdant with fresh green leaves though the interior Turkey and Downy Oak woodlands will seem dormant until the last weeks of April. Amphibians and reptiles will be active on warm days. Bird migration is in full swing with Short-toed Eagle, flycatchers, warblers, wagtails, and many others arriving or moving through. By mid-April, many Nightingales are to be heard in full song on river sides and damp woodlands, Hoopes flutter around gardens and villages and in the last week of April, Golden Orioles call in poplar forests along rivers. Wintering water birds have been largely (but not fully), replaced by Garganeys, Black-winged Stilts and many waders.

May

May is definitely the month with the most colour, sound and life. Birds are in full song, reptiles are active, butterflies are plentiful and flowers abound. Temperatures will be agreeable, restaurants and tourist facilities will be open but still quiet, as it is still well before the arrival of most tourists. Normally shy birds are more confiding and there are still migrants moving through. The first part of May is usually the top moment to witness the passage of trans-Saharan migrants on the islands, where Garden, Willow and Wood Warblers will be commonest. More showy breeders like Bee-eaters and Roller are appearing. By mid-May, woodlands and pastures are full of displaying or singing birds like Nightingale, Moltoni’s and Melodious Warblers, but the vegetation can sometimes make them hard to spot. Frogs are calling and the sounds of night-time insects become noticeable. The macchia shrubs and understory are in bloom, covered with white or lilac flowers and yellow broom patches. At the TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS

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google ‘agriturismo toscana’ and you can spend the better part of the day searching through splendid locations. There are numerous campgrounds in Tuscany that vary considerably in what they offer. Many are quite cramped during the summer months when you’ll find yourself in the midst of Italian family life. For walkers, there are plenty of overnight accommodations along most routes whether in the Apennine mountains or along the popular pilgrimage route, the Via Francigena. Note that trekking has become very popular in Italy and reservations may be needed.

Convenient Travel and Safety Issues Annoyances and hazards

Being under the Tuscan sun too long is perhaps the greatest threat during the summer months. In terms of dangerous wildlife, there is very little to worry about. The Asp Viper is the only snake with a venomous bite in Tuscany, and you’d be lucky to come across one in your travels as they are rarely found. Scorpions are more widespread. They are nocturnal creatures and usually avoid people, but may accidentally creep indoors on hot nights in the lowlands. So be cautious walking barefoot around at night. When camping, check your boots in the morning to see that nothing crawled in. Scorpion stings are painful rather than dangerous. Ordinary mosquitos are a summer nuisance. Early morning and evening outings may require repellent if they bother you. A newcomer, the Tiger Mosquito, has recently spread in most urbanised areas and is far more annoying, being silently active in the daytime. The poisonous Mediterranean Black Widow can be present on dry pastures grazed by sheep. Its venom is not dangerous, like that of the infamous American Black Widow, but a bite can be painful. At any time of year hiking in the mountains requires some caution as sudden storms can produce hazardous conditions (lightning, snow, floods). It is always wise to check weather conditions and bring proper gear in case the unexpected happens. Tuscany is home to a strong tradition of hunting, and during the shooting season (3rd Sunday of September till January 31st) it is best to be aware of the presence of hunters. If you meet hunters walking with dogs or sitting in hides, it is best to avoid disturbing or engaging them. It is especially worth avoiding places where boar hunters (cinghialai) are present. When you come across a big group of vehicles parked by a woodland, or hear people shouting and dogs barking during hunting season, it may well be cinghialai out for the day. Avoid the area as accidental shootings are a real risk. Ticks are present in most wooded areas and it is best to check after walking in grass or other vegetation. CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

Private Property and entrance

Most Tuscan property owners are not nearly as sensitive as the French or Spanish when it comes to people visiting their land. It is a great pleasure to be able to walk around without seeing “keep out” and “no trespassing” signs and to see land often unfenced. This, however, does not mean you can just simply go wherever you please. As a rule of thumb, it is best to never walk into a cultivated field or wander up what appears to be a private drive. Jumping fences for a closer look at a bird or flower will more than likely not end well. Walking on a rural path or unpaved field track is usually allowed though if you see signs declaring it to be private property, you should obey them. The best policy is always to approach cautiously, be friendly and engage anyone you come across. If they don’t want you there, they will make it clear and it is best to back down. Visitors used to generally open access to nature reserves, will be surprised by the difficulty of gaining access to reserves owned by nature conservation organisations. Much NGO-owned land, particularly the WWF-Oases, are firmly locked and hiding behind gates open only at very specific times or seasons and often only accessible via guided excursions. If you are used to the idea that nature reserves should be open to the general public or, in principle, should be encouraging visitors, this is an unwelcome surprise. However, there is another side to the story. With hunting, poaching and illegal fly-tipping being a threat in Italy, conservation organisations feel the need to protect the land they’ve purchased for nature conservation. Furthermore, site management and visitor infrastructure are costly, and subsidies and private donations are not as easy to come by as in many countries in northern Europe. So, once you view the entrance fee as the necessary contribution to managing a site rather than an imposition or a cashing in on wildlife, the Italian NGO- approach to site accessibility is more understandable.

Responsible tourism

Being light on the land and leaving no impact is at the heart of responsible tourism. Natural areas are particularly sensitive and it is best to stay on paths, avoid trampling vegetation and stressing wildlife by keeping your distance. Remember having binoculars and a camera makes you an ambassador for nature lovers. Being friendly toward locals and engaging them in conversation (or simply with smiles if you don’t have some Italian) will reduce the surprise of finding someone kneeling while photographing flowers or staring quietly into a tree. Italians are generally friendly and embracing of those who appreciate their countryside. There are numerous shy and vulnerable birds and it is best to keep your distance to not stress or flush them, especially during hunting season (3rd Sunday of September to January 31st). When taking photographs, especially of sensitive species, please ensure you have the species’ well-being in mind and keep appropriate distance in order to reduce risk of harm or nest desertion. TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS

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When shopping for groceries, buy bio. The term “bio” designates nature-friendly farming. The decline of flora and wildlife in Tuscany is largely tied to the change of land use in the past decades. Intensification and land abandonment, plus the use of fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides are in large part responsible for the decline of insects, flora and birdlife. As a visitor, buying local organic produce is the best way to support local biodiversity. There are also many local markets where farms sell their produce, which is another good way to buy the foods that are produced with care for the land and environment. Finally, visiting nature reserves, natural history museums or offices of local conservation organisations demonstrates your support for their work and helps them make their case that their mission is having a positive benefit in their community. They will be delighted to have visitors! If you can, take it a step further and consider a donation, membership or make a purchase in their shops if they have them. This, especially the membership, is more than merely financial support – it also shows involvement with the conservation goals themselves. If you are travelling with a dog, it is most responsible to keep them on a leash around livestock or wildlife. During the warmer months you should never light a fire, in fact, it is forbidden, due to the risk of wildfire.

Walking in Tuscany

Tuscany is filled with opportunities to explore the landscape on foot. Walkers will find almost unlimited opportunities to set out on foot on well-maintained tracks throughout the region, but especially in the mountains. Walking is enjoyable and relaxing, and an excellent way to see wildflowers, shrubs, trees, reptiles, amphibians, butterflies and other wildlife. Slowing down and walking will allow you to notice much more and have chance encounters with wildlife that is generally hard to track down. When going out on a hike, make sure to prepare properly. Take enough food and water with you. Almost all communities will have a fountain with drinking water to refill your water bottle. If it isn’t safe to drink, there will likely be a sign warning you away (acqua non potabile), but if you are uncertain ask a local (È questa acqua potabile? Means ‘is it safe to drink the water?’). Trails are usually in good condition and well-marked. There are good maps (see page 248) and phone apps, such as Alltrails, Maps.me, Topo.gps. The apps have the advantage of showing you your position and the trails in the area and are therefore your best preparation against getting lost. Make sure you use one that functions without an internet connection, as coverage is not always ideal. Wear suitable footwear and layered clothing so you can take off or put on a layer according to weather conditions. Take the sun seriously, especially during the warmer months. In summer, avoid walking from noon to 15:00 altogether. Check the itinerary to see whether your route takes you through open and exposed areas, and plan accordingly. Wear a hat and UV-blocking clothing which is light and protects the skin. CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

Finally, realise that the sun is not only hot and dehydrating, it is also extremely bright. It is the constant strain on the eyes that is one of the causes of heat stroke, so bring a good pair of sunglasses and a hat that will shade your face. When taking long walks, it is a good idea that you travel with others, and/or you let your hotel or agriturismo know where you are planning to walk.

Cycling in Tuscany

Cycling the backroads can be an excellent way to cover a bit more ground than by foot. In many parts of Tuscany, bicycles can be rented for the day and usually, those same shops can provide solid local information on routes. If cycling with binoculars, camera and other gear it is useful to be set up with a good bag or bike basket to allow you to cycle safely and not worry about your gear. Italian drivers are used to cyclists and it is generally a very safe region for cycling though it would be best to avoid crowded high-speed roads, and use lights and other safety gear.

Mobile phones

The mobile phone coverage is very good, but not perfect. Phones are a great tool, not only for maps but also for identifying species. At the time of writing, Merlin Bird ID and the bird song database of Aves Vox are great tools for recognising bird songs. Flora incognita is the app to have for plant identification via photos. Finally, the apps of observation.org, naturgucker.de and eBird (birds only) are great for posting your sightings and look for what others have found. All of this comes with the general warning to not overly rely on apps, as at the moment you may need it, you may not have coverage or power. ID apps are remarkably good at identifying species from photos or sounds, but far from perfect (yet). The good old field guide or handbook is still an important companion (see page 249).

Whale watching and seabird trips and other natural history excursions

A trip out into Tuscany’s coastal water is excellent for seeing whales, dolphins and seabirds, although it takes some planning to maximise success. The ferries serving the Tuscan Archipelago are perhaps the easiest way to see pelagic species. Whalewatching has not become as popular as in other Mediterranean countries. The guide Alessio Quaglierini organises pelagic trips out of Viareggio harbour and his trips are a good opportunity to see both species of shearwater as well as less common and rarer seabirds (Gannet, Kittiwake, skuas, auks and sometimes Balearic Shearwater). Alessio organises pelagic trips, speaks English and is best approached (well in advance) via email (alequaglie@gmail.com). There are licensed local guides in many parts of Tuscany, including a number with a strong natural history emphasis. Marco Valtriani, birdwatcher and naturalist, guides throughout Tuscany and beyond: www.birdinginitaly.com.

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smartphone app. The Birds of Italy by Pierandrea Brichetti and Giancarlo Fracasso (Edizoni Belvedere; ISBN: 9788889504604, ISBN: 9788889504635 and ISBN: 9788889504734) with 3 volumes in print is an excellent resource available in both Italian and English, but certainly not a field guide. Finally, the European Breeding Bird Atlas 2 by V. Keller, S. Herrando and P. Voríšk, et. al., (European Bird Census Council & Lynx Edicions; ISBN: 978-84-16728-38-1) is also a good source. Butterflies and dragonflies The standard guides for butterflies are Butterflies of Europe by Tristan Lafranchis (ISBN: 9782952162005) and the Collins Butterfly Guide by Toman and Lewington (Harper Collins: ISBN:13 9780007279777). For dragonflies the recently published Europe’s Dragonflies by Davie Smallshire and Andy Swash (2020; Princeton University Press; ISBN: 978-0-691-16895-1) provides excellent coverage as does the recently updated Field Guide to the Dragonflies of Britain and Europe by Klaas-Douwe B Dijkstra and Asmus Schröter (2020; Bloomsbury Publishing; Specifically for Italy and in Italian is Odonati D’Italia by C. Galliani, R. Scherini, and A. Piglia (Libreria della Natura; ISBN: 978-88-909788-2-1).

Observation tips Nearby destinations worth a detour

Tuscany is large and diverse enough to warrant multiple visits. However, there are several neighbouring regions that offer habitats and species that you will not find in Tuscany. To the southeast, the Apennine mountains rise in elevation to the highest point (2,912m) in the Italian Peninsula outside of the Alps in the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga in the region of Abruzzo. This area is the stronghold for numerous charismatic mammals, including Wolf, Brown Bear and Abruzzo Chamois among others. To the northeast, the Po River delta offers a remarkably different habitat and species. This is a wild area of saline and freshwater wetlands with lagoons and floodplain forests. The Val di Comacchio is a particularly rich destination. This region’s soil is among the most fertile, and hence most intensely cultivated in Italy, yet the diversity of bird species especially in migration and overwintering is very high. Just across the southern regional border, Lazio hosts Black-headed Bunting and Calandra Lark among others. Tuscany is also easily combined with a visit to Corsica, which is only 4 hours by ferry from Livorno (Corsica Ferries) and much less from Elba (Aquavision, summer only). Corsica’s high mountains offer a rich biodiversity with many endemic species, in particular plants and butterflies, but also birds in the form of Corsican Nuthatch (plus Marmora’s Warbler and Corsican Finch which it shares with the Tuscan islands). CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

Finding Snakes, spiders, scorpions and the like

Turning stones is rather like unwrapping Christmas gifts: it is very exciting, highly addictive and there is always one more ahead that must conceal something good. Mostly you will find ants and their nests, but every now and then there are scorpions, tarantulas and snakes. Toads and lizards are other possibilities. Turning flat stones of over 20 by 20 cm yields the best results. Lift them up to one side, turn them over and step back. Be aware that some animals have painful bites or stings. Always turn them over toward yourself and never hold the stone you turned in your hand because the animal might be underneath it and crawl up. Turning stones over is very invasive for the animals that live beneath them. Many of them have worked hard to create their underground nest. Therefore, make sure that you don’t disturb subterranean life too long and place the stone back exactly as you found it.

Finding Orchids

Orchids are numerous in Tuscany, but this does not mean that they are easy to find if you do not know where to look. The first thing you should realise is that orchids are not nature’s most resilient plants. They have no protection against grazing, meaning that they quickly disappear when livestock is around. What’s more, many species of orchids are weak competitors that are easily pushed out by other plants if the vegetation is left to develop. The result is that whilst they grow everywhere, they’re usually alone or in small clumps. They are usually not numerous… except along roadsides. There, the grazing pressure is very low and the frequent mowing seems to be enough to keep the competitors at bay. If you have never searched for orchids before, pictures (including those in this guidebook) can be very deceptive because the flowers seem much larger than they really are. Only the tall spikes of species like Early-purple, Pink Butterfly, Naked Man, Lady and Green-winged Orchid are conspicuous, and are easily seen even when driving along the minor roads. They should be your signal to stop by the side of the road and search a little harder for the flowers of the Ophrys or Serapias-genus, which are little gems for which you need to develop an eye. Limestone soils harbour different species than acidic soils. In general, the limestone areas are richest in orchids (see also page 85).

Birdwatching list The numbers between the brackets () refer to the routes from pages 124 onwards: Swans, geese and ducks Mute Swan occurs as an introduced species in some wetlands, otherwise it’s a winter vagrant (e.g. 4, 6, 11, 17). Greylag Geese are relatively common wintering along the coast in select locations, and joined on occasion by other rare wintering geese like White-fronted (4, 5, site C on page 169). Shelduck breeds TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS

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in a few locations and is a relatively common wintering bird on the coast (4, 6, 17). Wigeon, Gadwall, Teal, Shoveler, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Pintail and Pochard winter in good numbers. Garganey are best seen as spring migrants (4, 5, 7, 22). Ferruginous Duck (6, 11, 22 and site C on page 169), Red-crested Pochard (11 and site C on page 169), Scaup, Goldeneye, Smew and Goosander are a scarce migrants and wintering birds (6, 11 and site C on page 169). Garganey, Teal, (Common) Pochard breed in small numbers, the Mallard very commonly. At sea, Eider, Common and Velvet Scoter, Long-tailed Duck and Red-breasted Merganser are scarce in winter. Partridges Red-legged Partridge occurs sparingly on dry hills with scattered bushes throughout the region, including on the Tuscan archipelago (12, 16 seem to be the better routes for it). Quail nests in grassy environments with scattered bushes as well as cereal fields in lowlands. It is decreasing but not yet uncommon (11, 20). Both are more likely heard than seen. Divers and Grebes Black-throated and Red-throated Divers are regular but scarce winter visitors to the coastal waters. Both Great Crested and Little Grebe are locally common in wetlands (e.g. 4, 6, 11, 17, 18, 22). Black-necked Grebe winters on the coast, much less common are Slavonian and Red-necked Grebes (6, 11 and site B on page 193). Shearwaters, Gannets and Storm-Petrels Both Yelkouan and Scopoli’s Shearwaters breed on the islands and can be easily seen off the coast or from ferries (1, 2, 3 5, 11). European Storm-Petrel has not been confirmed as a breeding bird but can be occasionally seen on trips off Viareggio. Gannet is common off the coast in winter and even lingering in other seasons. Cormorants Cormorants are quite common in winter along the coast and up the Arno River valley favouring wetlands, lakes and reservoirs. It breeds very locally. Shag is found on the southern two-thirds of the coast and out on the islands where it breeds in good numbers (1, 2, 3, 7). Pygmy Cormorant is starting to be regularly seen at inland wetlands and rivers, particularly Lago di Montepulciano, Lago di Chiusi and on the upper Arno River (19, 22). Storks, flamingos, spoonbills and ibises Greater Flamingo is quite common at coastal brackish lagoons (4, 5, 6, site A on page 168 and site C on page 169), but will show up at inland wetlands (17, 18). White Stork is making a slow come back after being extirpated in Tuscany. Small numbers are nesting in the Arno River plain and valley up to Pistoia (11, 13, 17). Black Storks migrate in small numbers through Tuscany. Spoonbill is not widespread but can be spotted, including in large numbers, at coastal and interior wetlands (4, 5, 6, 13, 17, 18). Glossy Ibis is a newcomer; its numbers, following the Europe-wide increase, are on the rise and it is now not difficult to find (4, 11, 17, 18, 22). A small number of Bald Ibis from the reintroduction programme in the Alps spend the winter months feeding in fields around Laguna di Ortebello (6). Herons, egrets and bitterns Grey Heron and Little Egret are the most common species followed Great and Cattle Egrets, Purple Heron (in summer), and in smaller CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

numbers by Night and Squacco Herons (4, 5, 6, 13, 17, 18, 19, 22 and site A on page 168). Bittern and Little Bittern are not common and are most likely to be found in coastal wetlands (such as 4, 5, 11 and site A on page 193). Birds of prey Griffon Vulture is a rare visitor in spring in northwestern Tuscany. Short-toed Eagle is a widespread summer visitor especially in the hilly woodlands and fields (best on 19, 21 and site A on page 209). On migration, almost the entire Italian population passes through a narrow bottleneck between the Apuan Alps and the sea (site C on page 193). Booted Eagle is a scarce but regular coastal migrant; it overwinters annually around Lake Massaciuccoli (11, site C on page 193). Golden Eagle is resident in the Apuan Alps and northern Apennine mountains. (Greater) Spotted and White-tailed Eagles have occurred as rarities in the winter along the coast (4, 5). Osprey have benefited from a reintroduction programme and are now regular in small numbers along the coast and scattered inland locations (4, 5, 6). Common Buzzard and Black Kite are the most numerous raptors; Buzzards occurs throughout and Black Kites mostly in the lowlands. Red Kite breed in small numbers in scattered sites such as the region around Monte Labbro (8). Honey Buzzard is a widespread breeder across Tuscany and a common migrant on the coast and islands. Sparrowhawk is a widespread, but often missed woodland breeder. It is also a common migrant. Goshawk is thinly distributed in woodlands. Marsh Harrier is a localised breeder in wetlands but a very common passage migrant on the coast and islands. Many also wintering on the main lagoons. Hen Harrier is a wintering species along the coast and open valleys. Montagu’s Harrier is a summer resident occurring along the coast as well as inland, especially in Siena and Arezzo provinces (8, 20, 22). Falcons and kestrels Lesser Kestrel is rare and mostly seen in coastal locations, but also breeds in the Val d’Orcia. Kestrel is widespread. Hobby is a widespread breeder, particularly in river valleys. Red-footed Falcon are seen on spring migration particularly in the Arno Valley, Val d’Orcia, and the coastal plain (17, 18, 20). Eleonora’s Falcon is a rare autumn visitor along the rocky coast or islands (1, 2, 3). Peregrine breed at numerous locations and wintering numbers are enhanced by visitors from the north (1, 2, 3, 9). Lanner is now sadly quite rare but continues to breed in very small numbers in the south. Merlin winter in small numbers, more commonly on the coast (4 5, 6). Rails, crakes and gallinules Water Rail, Moorhen and Coot are common residents in all wetlands. The secretive Little and Spotted Crakes are likely overlooked with most records during migration in the wetlands in the NW coastal plain as well as other interior wetlands. Cranes Since the 1990s, Common Crane is an increasingly common winter visitor to coastal wetlands and agricultural fields, especially the Maremma and a few interior locations (4, 5). TOURIST INFORMATION & OBSERVATION TIPS

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PICTURE & ILLUSTRATION CREDITS In the references that follow, the numbers refer to the pages and the letters to the position on the page (t=top, c=centre, b=bottom, with l and r indicating left and right). Boscain, Luca: 26 (c), 140 Crossbill Guides / ten Cate, Bouke: cover, 5 (point 6), 107 (t+b) Crossbill Guides / Chisholm, Graham: 5 (point 5), 18, 19 (b), 27, 28, 29, 35, 36, 39, 40 (t), 41, 52, 69, 80 (t+b), 85, 90, 104, 126, 128 (b), 129, 139, 141, 142, 144, 147, 149, 151, 152 (t), 155, 158 (b), 169 (t), 174, 176 (b), 177, 181, 189 (t), 195, 197, 198 (b), 201 (t), 205 (t), 210 (r), 213, 216 (t+b), 222, 229, 231, 232, 233 (b), 236 Crossbill Guides / Hilbers, Dirk: cover, 4 (point 3&4), 5 (point 7&8), 10, 13, 16, 19 (t), 24, 25, 26 (b), 31, 45, 46 (b), 49, 50, 54, 60, 62, 68, 72, 74, 76 (t+b), 77, 78 (t+b), 82, 83 (t+c), 84 (r), 86, 88, 89 (l+c+r), 91 (t+b), 93, 95, 96 (t), 98, 99 (t+b), 103, 110 (l+r), 111, 112, 114 (r), 115 (t), 117, 118 (l), 119, 122, 128 (t), 132, 133, 135, 137 (t), 145, 150 (b), 153, 156, 157, 159, 161, 165, 173, 175, 176 (t+c), 179 (l+r), 182, 183, 186 (t), 187 (b), 189 (b), 191 (t), 193 (t), 209, 210 (l), 215, 218, 220, 224, 226 (b), 228, 235 (t+b), 238 Crossbill Guides / Lotterman, Kim:83 (b), 84 (l) Crossbill Guides / Vliegenthart, Albert: 113, 116, 118 (r), 114 (b), 120 (l+r), 162 (c+b), 164 (bl+br), 166, 167, 169 (b), 192 (b), 198 (t+c), 201 (b), 205 (b), 226 (t) Crossbill Guides / Lourens, Oscar: 64 Chiancianesi, Gianni: 43, 70, 94, 100 (b), 101 (t+b), 105, 191 (b), 221 (t+b) Dekker, Hans: 4 (point 1 and 3), 15, 26 (t), 40 (b), 46 (t), 48, 102, 136, 160, 162 (t), 164 (t), 170, 187 (t), 225 Fikkert, Cor: 4 (point 2), 100 (t), 146, 150(t), 168, 193 (b), 203 (b), 207 (l), 219 Quaglierini, Alessio: 55, 87, 127, 137 (b), 158 (t), 184 (l+r), 186 (b), 192 (t) Ricci, Paolo: 97 (t+b), 108 (t+b), 109, 114 (l), 121, 152 (b), 204 Sartoretti, Lorenzo: 207 (r), 208 Saxifraga / Marijnissen, Kees: 233 (t) Saxifraga / Vrezec, Al: 234 Valtriani, Marco: 237 Vantieghem, Pieter: cover, 115 (b), Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0: Veronesi, Francesco: 96 (b) Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 2.0: Dupont, Barnard: 92 Zarri, Enrico: 203 (t) All illustrations by Crssobill Guides / Wolter, Horst

CROSSBILL GUIDES • TUSCANY

SPECIES LIST & TRANSLATION The following list comprises all species mentioned in this guidebook and gives their scientific, German and Dutch names. It is not a complete checklist of the species of Tuscany. Some names have an asterisk (*) behind them, indicating an unofficial name. See page 7 for more details.

Flora English Scientific German Dutch Alder Alnus glutinosa Schwarzerle Zwarte els Alpenrose, Hairy Rhododendron hirsutum Bewimperte Alpenrose Harig alpenroosje Anemone, Blue Anemone apennina Apennin-Windröschen Blauwe anemoon Anemone, Broad-leaved Anemone hortensis Stern-Anemone Steranemoon Anemone, Narcissus-flowered Anemone narcissiflora Narzissen-Windröschen Narcisanemoon Anemone, Wood Anemone nemorosa Busch-Windröschen Bosanemoon Anemone, Yellow Anemone ranunculoides Gelbes Windröschen Gele anemoon Asarabacca Asarum europaeum Haselwurz Mansoor Ash, Common Fraxinus excelsior Gemeine Esche Gewone es Ash, Manna Fraxinus ornus Manna-Esche Pluim-es Ash, Narrow-leaved Fraxinus angustifolia Schmalblättrige Esche Smalbladige es Asparagus, Wild Asparagus acutifolius Stechender Spargel Stekelige asperge* Aspen, Trembling Populus tremula Zitter-Pappel Ratelpopulier Asphodel, Yellow Asphodeline lutea Gelber Affodill Gele affodil Aster, Alpine Aster alpinus Alpen-Aster Alpenaster Auricula Primula auricula Aurikel Aurikel Baneberry, Eurasian Actaea spicata Christophskraut Christoffelkruid Bartsia, Yellow Paracentucellia viscosa Gelbe Bartsie Kleverige ogentroost Basil, Wild Clinopodium vulgare Wirbeldost Borstelkrans Beech Fagus sylvatica Buche Beuk Bilberry, Bog Vaccinium uliginosum Rauschbeere Rijsbes Bilberry, Common Vaccinium myrtillus Blaubeere Blauwe bosbes Bindweed, Sea Calystegia soldanella Strandwinde Zeewinde Birthwort, Yellow* Aristolochia lutea Gelbe Osterluzei Gele pijpbloem* Bistort, Common Persicaria bistorta Schlangen-Knötterich Adderwortel Bittercress, Drooping Cardamine enneaphyllos Quirlblättrige Zahnwurz Kransbladig tandkruid* Bittercress, Wavy Cardamine flexuosa Wald-Schaumkraut Bosveldkers Blackthorn Prunus spinosa Schlehe Sleedoorn Bladderseed Physospermum Blasensame Blaaszaad* cornubiense Bladder-senna Colutea arborescens Blasenstrauch Europese blazenstruik Bladderwort, Southern Utricularia australis Verkannter Wasserschlauch Loos Blaasjeskruid Borage, Corsican Borago pygmaea Stauden-Borretsch Kleine bernagie Brome, Upright Bromus erectus Aufrechte Trespe Bergdravik Bryony, Black Tamus communis Gemeine Schmerwurz Spekwortel Bugle, Blue Ajuga reptans Kriechender Günsel Kruipend zenegroen Butcher’s-broom Ruscus aculeatus Stechender Mäusedorn Stekelige muizendoorn SPECIES LIST & TRANSLATION

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CROSSBILL GUIDES FOUNDATION From the magical Mediterranean light on the rolling hills with scattered cypress trees, and from the sandy shoreline, wetlands and rugged offshore islands to the wild, forested Apennine Mountains – Tuscany sits at the Tuscany heart of Italy. This region is well known for its cultural heritage but its natural treasures have often been overlooked. Yet the region features a tremendous natural diversity, featuring species from both the western and eastern parts of the Mediterranean basin. Tuscany has a surprisingly rich birdlife, a good number of endemic reptiles and amphibians, and a great collection of butterflies and wildflowers, in particular wild orchids. The Crossbill Guide Tuscany is the authoritative wildlife and nature travel guidebook. It provides background information on landscape, flora and fauna with 23 carefully selected hiking and driving routes to the most beautiful places to find wildlife.

• The guide that covers the wildflowers, birds and all other wildlife • Routes, where-to-watch-birds information and other observation tips • Insightful information on landscape and ecology

“Crossbill Guides – Everything you need to turn up in the right place and at the right time to find some of the best wildlife in Europe ” Chris Packham – BBC Springwatch www . crossbillguides . org - if you want to see more