FOOD: Clyde Van Arsdall takes us to the best birrierias north of the border

for BreakfastTacos

Move over bacon; here comes Birria

Story and photos by Clyde Van Arsdall

rip it and dip it! Picture a taco eaten like a French dip sandwich. The birria taco and its essential side of consomé have turned breakfast on its head.

664 TJ Birrieria, at 1794 Newton Avenue in Barrio Logan, San Diego

Birria is stewed meat; it can be goat or beef. Beef (res) is all the rage at the moment. A birra de res taco starts with beef cooked low and slow. Then, tomatoes and chilies fortify the stewing liquid, intensifying the fl avor and transforming it into the popular dipping liquid known as consomé.

Tacos start with corn tortillas dipped in the oil that forms on top of the consomé. The dip turns the tortilla its iconic red color. Once on the griddle, the oil helps crisp the taco. Stewed beef, birria de res, is added to the tortilla along with onions and cilantro. Cheese is always an option; the good stu from Oaxaca takes this taco to a new level of fl avor and texture. Once folded, the taco continues to cook on the fl at top until golden brown.

This crispy taco, with or without cheese, is impressive. Dipped in consomé, it is a culinary epiphany. The consomé is so good that some birria spots serve it over instant ramen noodles. Most people drink the consomé straight from the cup after the tacos are gone. So where has this taco been my whole life? Why have I just recently discovered it?

Cheese and corn tortilla on the flattop The cheese gets crispy on the flattop Onions and cilantro finish the birria taco

Birria has a long, rich history in Jalisco — but not as a taco. It is very di erent from what we eat here locally. So what was traditional birria, and how has it evolved into this new craze?

Goat is the meat of choice in Jalisco, in the form of birria de chivo (goat). The dish consists of stewed goat served with a side of the cooking broth and tortillas. Birria migrated north in the early ’80s and settled in Tijuana (TJ) with many other regional delights. Goat meat was not readily available or in high demand in TJ. Soon birria de chivo (goat) became birria de res (beef). Migration and assimilation are two recurring conditions causing traditional food to morph into something the mainstream consumer can get behind.

Tijuana is all about street food. Birria “the meal” ditched the plate and bowl and morphed into a taco, easy to eat on the go. A healthy splash of the cooking liquid makes the meat moist while reinforcing the deep beef flavor. A star was born. This TJ-style birria became all the rage. People were soon saying TJ birria was better than the traditional Jalisco version.

Even the border couldn't keep this regional favorite from heading north. Taqueros (taco vendors) soon made their way to Los Angeles and introduced TJ-birria to a new audience in Southern California. This taco became part of the food truck culture in LA. Taqueros, always striving to set themselves apart, started tweaking the taco to gain an advantage. To this end, good Oaxacan cheese joined the mix to create a quesabirria taco. Instead of the healthy splash of cooking liquid, a side cup of consome

Shank bone with marrow at Tuetano Taqueria Bone marrow elevates the fl avor in this taco Dipping the taco in consome takes this taco over the top

provided something to dunk your taco in. A dipping frenzy spread like wildfi re.

Food trucks use social media to post their location and promote their products. Long lines started forming at birria trucks. Quesabirria was soon hot and trending. This taco reached cult status overnight, causing Mexican restaurants all over the country to add it to their menu.

Birria tacos are not typically made at home, as the stew takes longer than most want to spend on an ingredient. I love to get these tacos at a shop that specializes in birria. They can take the time needed to do it right. You can often tell a good birrieria (birria restaurant or cart) by the fact that it opens early for breakfast. True fans want these tacos bright and early in the morning, and I am one of them. There are some fantastic birrieria just a short drive away. I encourage you to try them all. These taqueros get up with the sun to serve these ethereal tacos. Dawn patrol isn't always about surfi ng; sometimes, it's about a taco. Grab your board or just a cup of co ee and make the pilgrimage to one of these spots; you will be glad you did. Happy dipping!

It's crispy and you can dunk it, so kids love it!

• Clyde Van Arsdall IV is a third-generation Coronado local, chef and storyteller. For more stories and follow-ups to his articles go to oliveavenuesupperclub.com.

Ed Fernandez Birrieria is a busy place. The secret is to call ahead of time to place your order.

Local Birrieria

Birria El Rey 1015 25th Street, San Diego. Tuesday-Friday 8:00 am to 8:00 pm Saturday & Sunday 8:00 am to 4:00 pm Located in the Golden Hill neighborhood, these taqueros serve one of the best quesabirria tacos in town. Tuetano Taqueria The Old Town Urban Market, 2548 Congress Street. Sunday-Wednesday 11:00 am to 7:00 pm Thursday-Saturday 11:00am to8:00pm

Located in Old Town, this spot specializes in birria. While not open for breakfast, this place needs to be on your list. They feature bone marrow, served in the bone, with their signature birria taco. This restaurant received a nod from the Michelin guide when they were in town. Ed Fernandez Restaurant Birrieria 2265 Flower Avenue, San Diego. Wednesday-Sunday 7:00 am to 2:00 pm. Located south of Imperial beach in a converted apartment complex, this location serves up classic birria tacos and some signature fan favorites. Order ahead and use the pickup window to avoid the crowds. Most people eat in their cars in the parking lot. 664 TJ Birrieria 1794 Newton Ave. Monday-Sunday 7:00 am to 6:00 pm Located right across the bridge in Barrio Logan, they serve classic TJ style birria de res.

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