FOOD
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O L I V E AV E N U E S U P P E R C L U B
s o c a T
t s a f k a e r B for
Move over bacon; here comes Birria Story and photos by Clyde Van Arsdall
rip it and dip it! Picture a taco eaten like a French dip sandwich. The birria taco and its essential side of consomé have turned breakfast on its head.
664 TJ Birrieria, at 1794 Newton Avenue in Barrio Logan, San Diego 30
CROWN CITY MAGAZINE
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AUGUST 2022
Birria is stewed meat; it can be goat or beef. Beef (res) is all the rage at the moment. A birra de res taco starts with beef cooked low and slow. Then, tomatoes and chilies fortify the stewing liquid, intensifying the flavor and transforming it into the popular dipping liquid known as consomé. Tacos start with corn tortillas dipped in the oil that forms on top of the consomé. The dip turns the tortilla its iconic red color. Once on the griddle, the oil helps crisp the taco. Stewed beef, birria de res, is added to the tortilla along with onions and cilantro. Cheese is always an option; the good stuff from Oaxaca takes this taco to a new level of flavor and texture. Once folded, the taco continues to cook on the flat top until golden brown. This crispy taco, with or without cheese, is impressive. Dipped in consomé, it is a culinary epiphany. The consomé is so good that some birria spots serve it over instant ramen noodles. Most people drink the consomé straight from the cup after the tacos are gone. So where has this taco been my whole life? Why have I just recently discovered it?
