FOOD | PHO
War-Torn
Noodles The journey of phở By Clyde Van Arsdall IV
Shank & Bone restaurant in North Park, San Diego. 34
CROWN CITY MAGAZINE
|
JANUARY 2022
The smell of a steaming bowl of phở, pronounced fuh, is unmistakable and intoxicating. The fresh herbs that accompany this dish are eye-catching and fragrant. They signal something good is about to be served. The excitement, for me, is palpable. I can only imagine that phở is like a warm hug. A welcome home, for those that remember it from childhood. For me, this beef noodle soup is simply comforting. I have no memories tied to it. I do however feel welcomed by the people that love and serve it. I am neither Vietnamese nor an expert on this ethereal dish. But, I don’t have to be either of these things to enjoy it and sing its praises. There are few things that are more satisfying than discovering new foods, and taking a deep dive into their origins. Let the noodle journey begin. The history of this dish is a good place to start: what phở is, where it came from, and how this dish reached such a large audience. There are a couple of things you need to know before your introductory bowl of phở. First impressions are important; you want your initial taste to be transformative. I will share tips on ordering and eating this dish. The bone broth alone takes up to 24 hours to cook. The best phở is made by those who have mastered this art. I will share with you some of my favorite places to experience these memorable noodles. The story of phở is one filled with conflict. The wars that ravished Vietnam gave birth to, shaped and eventually elevated phở to what it is today. A noodle dish born of war. Napoleon invaded Vietnam in 1857. Colonization brought French culture, architecture and cuisine. The French
