RIVER GUIDE 2020
DRAMATIC DESTINATIONS OF
RIVER CRUISE
Exploring the world’s inland waterways in 2020
SPIRIT OF THE RHINE
Bringing boutique cruising to the riverways of Europe... Boutique river cruises including… • VIP travel service from home • Optional travel insurance • French balconies for almost all cabins • Free-to-dine a la carte restaurant • A selection of drinks at lunch and dinner • Up to eight included excursions • On-board gratuities • Complimentary Wi-Fi, and more!
Book online at sagaagents.co.uk or call 0800 074 8021 Saga’s holidays and cruises are exclusively for the over 50s (but a travelling companion can be 40+). NTA-RC6500.
EDITOR’S LETTER
River cruise goes from strength to strength It’s been a year since we last produced the cruise adviser River Guide and, in that time, the sector has gone from strength to strength. As our handy infographic proves on p9, there are more new ships, more guests and a greater diversity of destination than ever. The Rhine RIVER CRUISE and Danube – and Europe in general – remain the key destinations, but cruise lines are increasingly looking further afield. With Viking Osiris and SS Sphinx launching on the Nile this year, the Egyptian river – once the most popular outside of Europe – is experiencing a renaissance; it may be no where near pre-2011 levels, but its return is a welcome one. Jane Archer writes about its exciting growth on p21. We also take a look at the Lower Danube, Russian waterways and the Douro, three of Europe’s great waterways, providing you with a budget, mid-range and expensive option for each from p24. This issue’s port of call is Budapest, the jewel in any Danube cruise (p18), while we check in with Iain Powell of Saga as the line expands into river (p14). We hope you enjoy reading.
THREE THINGS WE’VE LEARNT ABOUT RIVER CRUISE P9
RIVER GUIDE 2020
DRAMATIC DESTINATIONS OF
Exploring the world’s inland waterways in 2020
Join us in Birmingham In April we will holding our very first river cruise event in Birmingham. More details will be coming in the coming weeks but email us on info@cruise-adviser.com to guarantee your place now. See cruise-adviser.com/events for more. If you would like to receive another copy of this guide for your office, just email info@cruise adviser.com with the subject line ‘River Guide 2020’ and we’ll send one (or more) out
RIVER CRUISE IS STILL ON THE RISE
Passenger numbers from the UK and Ireland grew by over 10 per cent in 2018
P18
BUDAPEST NOW BOASTS SIX MICHELIN STARS
The Hungarian capital is a fantastic destination for foodies and fun lovers
P22
CRUISE CUSTOMERS ARE RETURNING TO THE NILE The number of Brits heading to Egypt for cruises rose by over 20 per cent in 2018
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CRYSTAL WHERE LUXURY IS PERSONAL
LEGENDARY RHINE
BASEL TO AMSTERDAM | VOYAGE RBA200823-07 CRYSTAL BACH | 23 AUGUST 2020 | 7 NIGHTS AMSTERDAM GERMANY
Cologne
Michael Dupont
Koblenz Middle Rhine Valley
Rüdesheim
Natalie Read
Mannheim
Jon Schofield Regional Sales Manager North & Scotland Tel: 07841 921533 jon@cruiseportfolio.co.uk
Regional Sales Manager South Tel: 07896 971316 natalieread@cruiseportfolio.co.uk
Strasbourg FRANCE
BASEL
Head of Sales Tel: 07921 949469 mick@cruiseportfolio.co.uk
Zurich
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BEST AVAILABLE SUITES ON THE GREAT RIVERS OF EUROPE Best Available Fares from £3,660 per person Itinerary Highlights: Basel, Strasbourg, Mannheim, Rüdesheim, Koblenz (overnight), Cologne, Amsterdam (overnight).
Nan Short
Megan Saunders
Representative Northern Ireland & Eire Tel: 02890 642252 nanshort@btopenworld.com
Trade Sales Support Executive Tel: 020 7399 7602 megan@cruiseportfolio.co.uk
AWARDED 26 YEARS
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING, PLEASE CALL:
020 7399 7604
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Fares are per person, cruise only in GBP sterling based on double occupancy in the specified stateroom grade for the first two full-fare guests in stateroom and include port, security and handling charges, which vary by departure. All other stateroom grades are available on request. For the Best Available Suite offer on Crystal River Cruises, fares apply to new bookings only in categories S1 through S5 on select sailings only. Savings apply to new bookings only made between 5 March 2020 and 30 April 2020 on select Crystal River Cruises sailings, is capacity controlled, and may not be combinable with other offers. Fares may not be combinable with other promotions (including Crystal Society Savings), are subject to availability, and may be withdrawn or changed at any time without notice at the discretion of Crystal Cruises. Other restrictions apply. Ask for details. All sailings include select fine wines, premium spirits, beers and all non-alcoholic beverages such as bottled water, soft drinks and speciality coffees plus pre-paid gratuities for housekeeping, dining and bar staff. All fares, offers and itineraries are subject to change and availability and can be withdrawn at any time. The prices shown in the brochure or elsewhere may have changed by the time you come to book your holiday. Prices, discounts, supplements and special offers advertised in the brochure or elsewhere may be withdrawn or changed at any time. Prices may go up or down. You should contact your travel agent for up to date prices and charges before booking, call us on: 020 7399 7604 or visit www.crystalcruises.co.uk. The fares are available to new bookings only and are only available to UK & Eire residents. Restrictions apply. See crystalcruises.co.uk for complete terms and conditions of all offers. © 2020 Crystal Cruises, Inc., Ships' registry: Malta.
Contents RIVER GUIDE 2020 3
Editor’s letter
8
News The River Cruise Line rebrands as Arena River Cruises, plus the latest from Riviera and Amadeus
9
Infographic River cruise in numbers
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Saga interview Sam Ballard speaks to Iain Powell about Saga’s brand new river ship, Spirit of the Rhine
18
Port of call: Budapest Anthony Pearce profiles the Hungarian capital, a highlight of any cruise along the Danube
21
River focus: Nile After the riots and revolution, Egyptian river cruise is back. Jane Archer looks at the options
24
Budgeting for a river cruise A look at the price options for different destinations
is brought to you by Waterfront Publishing
CRUISE ADVISER
Publisher Sam Ballard sam@cruise-adviser.com
The wonders of Egypt are accessible once again (p21) and budgeting for a cruise on the Douro (p24)
Sales manager Rory Collins rory@waterfront-publishing.com 020 3865 4815 Sales exectuive Vasiliana Micheal vasiliana@waterfrontpublishing.com 020 3865 9360 Graphic design Matthew Coles
Publisher Anthony Pearce anthony@cruise-adviser.com
Sub-editors Nathaniel Cramp, Emily Eastman
Senior sales manager Bryan Johnson bryan@cruise-adviser.com 020 3865 9338
Waterfront Publishing 12-18 Hoxton Street, London N1 6NG info@cruise-adviser.com 020 3865 9360
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NEWS Do you have a story for us? Email info@waterfront-publishing.com
ARENA RIVER CRUISES
The River Cruise Line rebrands as Arena River Cruises and joins Clia The rebranding is accopanied by the launch of new website linked to the wider portfolio of Arena Travel brands and the lauch of a new ship, MS Arena The River Cruise Line has rebranded as Arena River Cruises and joined Clia. The river cruise specialist was renamed last month, bringing it in line with the rest of parent company Arena Travel’s portfolio, ahead of the start of the 2020 cruising season. Accompanying the rebranding is the launch of a new website linked to the wider portfolio of Arena Travel brands, which is designed to offer a more streamlined experience, with 6
improved search and booking functionality, as well as more content and a live chat. Andy Harmer, Clia UK & Ireland director, said: “We are delighted to welcome Arena River Cruises back as a member of Clia. Following the company’s rebrand and new website, this is an ideal time for Arena River Cruises to be able to engage with Clia travel agents, guiding them through the benefits of the new changes.” Steve Goodenough, Arena River Cruises managing
director, added: “We’re very pleased to have re-joined Clia and look forward to showcasing the new brand, as well as our new ship the MS Arena, over the coming months. “The membership provides an excellent opportunity for us to develop our network of agents across the UK and Ireland and we’re very keen to hear from independent and like-minded agents who are interested in expanding further into the river cruising market.” CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
2021 Viking river cruises are now on sale
Rhine Getaway from £1,495pp
Romantic Danube from £1,595pp
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing March to December 2021
8 days, 6 guided tours Departing April to December 2021
Amsterdam • Kinderdijk • Cologn • Koblenz & Rüdesheim Speyer • Strasbourg • Breisach • Basel
Budapest • Vienna • Krems • Passau • Regensburg
Lyon & Provence from £1,595pp
Portugal’s River of Gold from £2,195pp
Lyon • Vienne • Tournon • Avignon • Arles • Avignon
Lisbon • Porto • Régua • Barca d’Alva • Salamanca Pinhão • Régua • Porto
8 days, 7 guided tours Departing March to November 2021
10 days, 8 guided tours Departing April to November 2021
Every Viking river cruise includes: • Return flights from the UK, including flights from selected regional airports • A choice of staterooms and suites • Onboard meals • Quality wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner on board
• Onboard Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary) • Expert guided excursions • Tea, coffee, snacks and bottled water on board • Onboard enrichment programme • Onboard gratuities
2021 eight-day river cruises from £1,495pp 020 8780 7900
www.vikingcruises.co.uk
Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2021. Single supplements apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
RIVIERA TRAVEL
Phil Hullah is named as new CEO
Phil Hullah will replace David Clemson, who will stay in the business as a non-executive director
Riviera Travel is to appoint Phil Hullah as CEO. He succeeds David Clemson who will stay within the business as a non-executive director. Clemson (pictured), who has been with the company since 2008, increased revenue seven-fold during his tenure, maintaining a track record of 35 years worth of growth. He also started Riviera’s highly successful agency sales channel. Andrew Strong, chairman of Riviera, said: “On behalf of the board of directors, I want to thank David for his outstanding leadership as CEO. During his tenure, the business has grown into the market leader it is today while maintaining Riviera’s culture of dedication
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to delivering an outstanding customer experience.” Clemson said: “It’s been a huge privilege to lead Riviera. I am deeply grateful to Riviera’s fantastic team, its founder Michael Wright and the board for their tireless commitment to the Business. I would like to thank our loyal customers and partners for continuing to put their trust in us year after year.” Hullah said: “I am honoured and delighted to be taking over as CEO. It’s a pleasure to be working with Riviera’s fantastic team of passionate staff.” Hullah joined Riviera in October 2019 as COO and has previously held senior roles with Laithwaites Wine and John Lewis.
AMADEUS Ship number 17 set to launch next year Amadeus River Cruises will launch its 17th ship in spring next year. The line has assigned Dutch shipyard DeHoop to build the five-star ship, which will be called Amadeus Cara. It will sail primarily on the Danube and Rhine rivers. “The new ship in 2021 will not only serve as much needed extra capacity increase for the great demand for our high quality river cruises, but is also a promise to our passengers that we will continue to offer one of the most modern fleets in the five-star segment,” said Dr Wolfgang Lüftner, founder and managing director of Amadeus River Cruises. “As a family business our most important role is to exceed the high expectations of our guests from the very first day of their cruise. When they are on board, they should feel as though they are a part of our big Amadeus family,” he added. “With the continued growth in river cruising, we are very excited to welcome Amadeus Cara to our portfolio. Amadeus River Cruises is a trusted and respected brand in the UK and offers incredible experiences, itineraries and shore excursions to their guests,” said Sukie Rapal, head of river cruise at Fred River Cruises.
CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
RIVER CRUISE Cruising on inland waterways is becoming more and more popular. It’s the ideal entry point for new-to-cruise customers who may be wary of going on an ocean vessel; it’s also perfect for younger travellers looking for easy access to multiple city-centre locations. In fact, whatever you want, it’s highly likely that there’s a river cruise for it – as these figures from Clia’s River Cruise Review illustrate.
MOST POPULAR DESTINATIONS BY RIVER 1. Danube 2. Rhine 3. Douro =4. Rhine and Danube =4. Rhone and / or Saône 6. Rhine and Moselle 7. Netherlands / Belgium riverways 8. Seine 9. Mekong 10. Russian waterways =11. Nile =11. Elbe 13. Gironde and Garonne 14. Danube 15. Irrawaddy =16. Yangtze =16. Mississippi and tributaries 18. Main =19. Amazon =19. French canals 21. Pan European =22. Po / Venice =22. Guadalquivir / Guadiana 24. Dnieper 25. Ganges
51,700 50,900 23,800 13,200 13,200 8,100 7,900 6,700 6,200 6,000 5,700 3,700 3,300 3,100 2,900 2,300 2,300 2,000 1,700 1,700 1,600 1,500 1,500 800 500
UK AND IRELAND RIVER CRUISE MARKET
GREW AT A HEALTHY PACE IN 2018
232,300 passengers growth of 10.4 per cent
TOTAL NUMBER OF BED NIGHTS
1,800,000 increase of 12.1 per cent
X
SOURCES: CLIA UK & IRELAND RIVER CRUISE REVIEW 2018 PUBLISHED JUNE 2019
Our biggest ever selection of cruises Introducing our new Amsterdam to Cologne river cruise, the five-star MS Lord Tennyson and Riviera Plus
Our biggest ever • Selection of itineraries, including our first-ever festive cruises over Christmas and New Year • Collection of cruises exclusively for solo travellers • Choice of departure dates
New for 2021 • Five-star MS Lord Tennyson joins our fleet • Amsterdam, Cologne and the Best of Holland & Flanders cruise • Riviera Plus – enhanced services and amenities with selected cabins and suites • More dining options to choose from including new ‘Local Flavours’ menu
Contact us for more details or agency sales support Call agency sales for support: 01283 744307
Call reservations to book: 01283 744370
Email: agencysales@rivieratravel.co.uk
Book online: www.rivieratravel.co.uk/agents
Smart handset with maps, translator, currency converter, unlimited calls, text messages and internet usage, on-board or ashore L’Occitane en Provence toiletries for that extra touch of luxury
New for 2021, we are delighted to introduce Riviera Plus. Customers in all deluxe and superior suites and all upper-deck cabins will benefit from a wealth of unique, new benefits including:
Bottle of chilled Prosecco on arrival Platter of fresh seasonal fruits during the cruise An aperitif each evening, with our compliments
Our NEW 2021 collection Our biggest ever selection of cruises featuring tempting new dining options and unique benefits
New
The Blue Danube – Vienna, Budapest & Salzburg 8 days from only £1,099
Budapest to the Black Sea – Gems of Eastern Europe 15 days from only £2,299
Amsterdam, Cologne and the best of Holland & Flanders 8 days from £1,499
ABTA No. V4744 Ri
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u i s e s M a rc h 2
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Riviera Travel booking terms and conditions apply. Prices correct at time of print.
Promotion
Introducing the Emerald Luna The rapidly expanding river cruise line will introduce its stylish new eighth European Star-Ship onto Rhine itineraries in 2021 It’s hard to believe that the history of Emerald Waterways is such a short one. Founded in only 2013, with its first ship, the Emerald Sky, christened in 2014 by Twiggy, the line started with a bang and has never looked back. Ever since those early days, the company has forged its own path. From more ships in Europe – two introduced in 2015 alone – to the first charter on the Mekong, in southeast Asia. In 2017, the line debuted in France, Portugal and Russia, before moving into Egypt and the Dalmatian Coast the following year. It became clear very quickly that, with its blend of modern design, culturally
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immersive tours and fascinating itineraries, Emerald Waterways was tapping into something truly special. The speed of innovation has been breathtaking. In 2019, Emerald Harmony, the line’s first purpose-built Star-Ship on the Mekong was launched, meaning that Emerald Waterways could maintain the quality of its European Star-Ship offering on its Asia itineraries. This year the company made what is arguably its biggest announcement ever with Emerald Azzurra, the brand’s first super yacht. It will sail in the Mediterranean, Red Sea and Adriatic Coast, offering a
new dimension to the Emerald Waterways offering. The company also announced that it would be building its eighth European Star-Ship in the form of Emerald Luna. The ship will set sail in 2021 offering 10-day cruises through the Netherlands and Belgium – calling at the likes of Antwerp, Rotterdam and, of course, Amsterdam. Rhine Cruises are among the most popular for British guests, with highlights such as a springtime visit to the world famous Keukenhof Gardens – where guests can walk through millions of brightly coloured tulips, stretching as far as the eye can see – something your clients
CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
Promotion
will never forget. Perfect for horticulturalists, budding or otherwise. Amsterdam is one of the most picturesque cities in the world, and a key stop on Rhine river cruises. Walk around the famous canals, meander through Vondelpark or visit the Rijksmuseum and view the masterpieces by Dutch maters such as Rembrandt. All the time knowing that your beautiful Star-Ship is located in the heart of the city. On board, the 180 guests will be treated to the most stylish ship on the river – with a swimming pool that seamlessly transforms into a CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
cinema for the evening – and onboard amenities that are equal to those of a world-class hotel. Suites benefit from an innovative all-weather balcony systems – capable of handling the sometimes unpredictable European climate. An infotainment system, high-end toiletries and luxury bed all come as standard. There are plenty of opportunities to get off the ship and out into your destination. Emerald includes one EmeraldPLUS excursion on every sailing, giving your clients extra special insight into a destination. These are coupled with EmeraldACTIVE
excursions, such as a guided hike, fantastic for anyone who enjoys the great outdoors. Whether your client wants to see the old castles and palaces of Europe, or walk around some of the continent’s medieval streets, breathing in the unique atmosphere, there is a reason why the Rhine is so popular. Get them on board the Emerald Luna to have the most modern experience while cruising through this incredible region. Emerald Waterways is offering 2021 river cruises at 2020 prices for a limited time, plus €200 per cabin to spend on board 15
INTERVIEW
“River is a successful area of our business” Sam Ballard speaks to Iain Powell from Saga, about why the company is bringing ‘boutique cruising’ inland with its own purpose-built river ship, Spirit of the Rhine When Saga announced last year that it was launching its own purpose-built river ship, Spirit of the Rhine, it would have surprised few people. Saga’s cruise product is one of the key parts of its offering – made all the more important after the company launched its first purpose-built ocean ship, Spirit of Discovery, last year. That ship came out to much fanfare – with well-designed spaces articulating “boutique cruising”. Saga’s river product – for a long time on ships not designed by its own team – is in a similar position. We sat down with Iain Powell, Saga’s head of trade sales & third party cruise, to find out what having its own
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purpose-built river ship will mean for the company. cruise adviser: Why did Saga decide to launch a purpose-built river ship? Iain Powell: After the success of our new ocean ships, Spirit of Discovery and Spirit of Adventure, we have a tried and tested model for creating market-leading boutique vessels. They have performed exceptionally well and we know guests are choosing Saga because of the experience we will offer on board. Therefore it was a very logical move to take elements of design and service delivery across to river, which of course is a
rapidly growing and successful area of our business. There is also a real benefit to new/ purpose-built ships; it affords us the opportunity to have input on every element of the guest experience, from cabin design, to restaurant and entertainment. Why the Rhine? The Rhine is already an extremely popular choice for our guests as it offers a real mixture of destinations, from bucket-list cities to very beautiful lesser-known villages. Visiting these smaller towns and villages is just as important to us as the larger cities, as our guests regularly tell us it’s important
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to them to have unique and varied ports of call. When we decided to embark on our first new purpose-built river ship, we were of course keen to ensure that we do so on a river that appeals to both existing and new guests and we’re very confident the Rhine will provide just that. Can you tell me a little bit more about the itineraries. Who are they targeted at? Our primary focus, when planning any itinerary, is to ensure it is highly differentiated, offering guests something unique and different to our competition. It’s an aggressive and crowded market, meaning we have to ensure guests have a reason to choose Saga. A great example of this differentiation is one of our current best-sellers – ‘Rhine and Glacier Express’ – which combines a seven-night scenic cruise with four nights exploring Switzerland’s peaks, culminating with a full day on the stunning Glacier Express. We are market leaders in themed river cruises and will CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
ensure this plays a key part in Spirit of the Rhine’s programme. We have two departures featuring the fantastic wines of the Rhine and Moselle, which are timed to coincide with when those towns and villages visited will celebrate with local festivals, featuring the best food and drink of the region. Entertainment is also a key focus for us in our themed cruises. Whether it be jazz, ’60s and ’70s music with Radio 2, or the best of Gilbert and Sullivan, we have something for everyone. Will Spirit of the Rhine be similar to Saga’s ocean ships? The most obvious similarities between our ocean ships and Spirit of the Rhine will be in the design, both internally and externally. This isn’t about copying our ocean ships, it is about creating similarities between the vessels, which guests recognise as ‘boutique cruising’. It becomes the new norm for us and a benchmark for our product offering as we continue to expand the fleet. Spirit of the Rhine will, in the
same way our ocean ships do, focus on contemporary British hotel design, with a relaxed luxurious feel. It will feature spacious cabins with a range of facilities, as well as having superb cuisine throughout with a choice of dining venues at no additional cost. How are you engaging with the trade over this launch? The trade have already been incredibly supportive of Spirit of the Rhine, in the same way they have for our ocean ships. We continue to offer rewards, incentives and market-leading commissions for the bookings made across all our product and, as we move closer to its arrival in March 2021, we begin plans for exciting trade events to ensure as many agents have the opportunity to experience it before our guests do. Additionally, it will form a key part of our future fam trip programme. The key for us is showcasing the product to as many agents as possible, which ultimately gives them the best chance making bookings. 15
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PORTS OF CALL
Budapest Anthony Pearce profiles the Hungarian capital, which is a highlight of any cruise along the Danube Divided by the Danube, the city of Budapest is one of the great river cruise destinations, usually the first or final call on a tour of some of Europe’s most historic cities and beautiful valleys. The Hungarian capital, which comprises the oncedivided Buda to the west and Pest to the east, remains a dual city defined by its great waterway – many of its most famous sites lined up alongside it, from the Hungarian Parliament, architecturally inspired by the Palace of Westminster, to the elevated Buda Palace, once home to the kings of the Ottoman and Habsburg dynasties, which looms above the city streets. In fact, if you want to persuade someone of the merits of taking a river cruise, look no further than Budapest. Scenic and Emerald Waterways dock
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next to parliament, while most other cruise lines dock down the river in the centre of town, meaning you’re off the ship and immediately in the mix, with no need to transfer anywhere. Eastbound Danube cruises tend to start in Nuremberg, Regensburg or Passau in Bavarian Germany and take in the likes of Melk, Linz, which provides access to Salzburg, or Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic, Vienna and the beautiful Wachau Valley, all in Austria, as well as Bratislava, the Slovakian capital, before ending in Budapest, whereas westbound cruises start in the Hungarian capital and head upstream. Increasingly common are Lower Danube cruises that focus on countries once behind the Iron Curtain – beginning in Budapest and visiting the likes of Belgrade
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Photo by elCarito on Unsplash
From beautiful buildings to thermal baths… With its architectural delights, fascinating history and Parisian-style café culture, it’s a city worth getting up early for and, given its unique nightlife, staying up late for. A stroll alongside its riverbanks is the best way to begin your journey here. Its most iconic site, the Hungarian Parliament, a Gothic revivalist masterpiece completed in 1904, is a great first stop, with 45-minute tours taking in the old House of Lords and the Hungarian Crown Jewels. Cross the iconic Széchenyi Chain Bridge to find the Buda Palace, a stunning blend of medieval Gothic and Baroque elements (the Castle Hill funicular, which dates back to 1870, will save you having to walk all the way up). All three of these sites are lit up at night and many cruise lines operate night sailings to allow guests to bask in their warm glow. Gellért Hill offers spectacular views of the river and both the Pest and Buda sides of the city, while the 19th-century Citadella fortress at its top is worth the walk. After that exertion, the Gellért Thermal Baths, one of Budapest’s many spectacular thermal spas, at the foot of the hill are the perfect remedy. In fact, no trip to Budapest is complete without a stop at one of these magnificent baths, the Szechenyi spa is the
Photo by Liam McKay on Unsplash
and Bucharest on the way to the Black Sea. Avalon Waterways has a 15-night cruise from Nuremberg to Bucharest, while Viking Cruises’ 22-night European Sojourn heads all the way from Amsterdam down to the Romanian capital.
largest medicinal bath in all of Europe, and one of the finest. For cafés, restaurants, theatres and luxury boutiques, head down Andrássy Avenue, home to the Renaissance-style State Opera House and the sobering House of Terror, which commemorates the victims of Nazi and Soviet occupation. The city now boasts an impressive six Michelin stars, including at the two-star Onyx, which blends traditional Hungarian fare with inventive culinary techniques. But there’s
no need to splash the cash. Head into one of the many wood-panelled tavernas, where a couple of beers, goulash (which here is flavoured with paprika and more like a soup than elsewhere in central Europe), and some dense bread to soak it up, will leave you with change from a tenner. Also worth exploring are the city’s ruin bars – drinking holes in unusual settings that get their name from the once-crumbling, abandoned buildings they inhabit.
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RIVERFOCUS
Nile
Passenger numbers fell after the riots of 2011, but Egyptian river cruise is back. Jane Archer sets sail with Sanctuary and looks at the ever-growing options It’s hard to believe that the Nile was once the biggestselling river cruise in the UK, attracting more than 40,000 British holidaymakers in 2006, according to Clia’s predecessor, the Passenger Shipping Association. Ever since Thomas Cook first took clients on a Nile cruise in 1869, it has been a bucket-list destination for cruisers and non-cruisers alike, all of them eager to see the many temples
that dot the banks of the river and the deep vaults where kings and queens were entombed after death with their riches. That changed during the Arab Spring of 2011, when riots and revolution frightened people off. In 2016, just 3,600 Britons took a Nile cruise. Things are changing again – for the better. In 2018, the number of Britons taking a Nile cruise was up more than 20 per cent to 5,700, according to Clia.
That’s not just good news for river cruise lines, but also for the many Egyptians – the boat crews, guides, shopkeepers and others – who rely on tourism for their livelihoods and have endured hard times these past few years. “Tell everyone at home that Egypt is safe because we need them,” Medhat, my guide, told me as I cruised along the Nile last autumn with Sanctuary Retreats.
The four-night cruise, from Luxor to Aswan on Sanctuary Nile Adventurer, started with a night in Luxor to see its many ancient treasures – Karnak and Luxor Temples in the city; the Valley of the Kings and Queen Hatshepsut’s shrine on the other side of the river. On the way we called into the temples of Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo. In Aswan, we visited Philae Temple and an ancient quarry with an ‘unfinished’ obelisk, before relaxing in a felucca, a small sailing boat, as we drifted past the Old Cataract Hotel where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile. Nine of us were assigned to Medhat, who sailed with us and took us to see the sights and regaled us with stories about the temples, hieroglyphics, the affairs and murderous goingson of the pharaohs and more. Over meals, our conversation focused on who was keeping up with it all. No one mentioned safety concerns. In common with most Nile operators, Sanctuary includes all tours in the cruise price bar an excursion to the Temple of Abu Simbel, a four-hour drive or short flight from Aswan, which is an optional extra. Sanctuary Retreats, sold through Fred River Cruises, has stuck with Egypt throughout the lean years. It has also continued to invest there, most recently refurbishing the Nile Adventurer (it had just had a major refit when I was on board) and Sun Boat IV, which also offers four-night cruises between Luxor and Aswan. As growth in demand starts to return, not just from the UK but the US, Australia and Europe, other river cruise lines
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are either returning to the Nile, or adding it to their portfolio for the first time, invariably packaged with pre or postcruise nights in Cairo. Scenic and Emerald Waterways both launched Nile cruises in 2018. Scenic’s cruises are on Sanctuary’s Sun Boat III and packaged with land tours in Egypt and Jordan. Emerald Waterways packages four-night cruises on the river ship Hamees with Cairo and Luxor from £3,345 per person with flights. Uniworld River Cruises and Avalon Waterways are both returning to the Nile this year. Uniworld’s new river ship Sphinx is sailing one-week cruises round-trip from Luxor. Avalon’s new Nile programme, offering four-night cruises between Luxor and Aswan on the river boat Farah, kicks off in September. Prices start from £2,732 per person, including flights and five nights in Cairo. CroisiEurope is new on the Nile this year with seven-night voyages round-trip from Luxor on the Steigenberger Royale, while AmaWaterways plans to launch there in 2021. “Egypt is ready for a comeback,” said executive vice-president and co-owner Kristin Karst. “It will suit clients interested in culture and soft adventure.” Viking will almost double its Nile capacity when its new 82-passenger Viking Osiris launches in December 2020. The line made its debut in Egypt in 2018 with Viking Ra, a refurbished 48-passenger vessel. Its one-week Nile cruises round-trip from Luxor include eight temple tours and private access to the tomb of Nefertari in the Valley of the Queens.
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Budgeting for a river cruise It’s an oft-repeated phrase, but there really is a river cruise out there to suit all tastes and budgets. We look at the various price options for different destinations
Lower Danube Five countries, three great cities, a narrow gorge and stories of wars, invasions and life under Communism await on a Lower Danube cruise from Budapest to Bucharest or the Black Sea
Affordable
Expensive
Extravagant
Company: Fred Olsen Itinerary: Round-trip from Budapest, visiting Vukovar, Belgrade, Donji Milanovac, Vidin, Rousse, Galati, St Gheorghe, Fetesti, Cetate, Turnu Severin, Novi Sad and Kalocsa Duration: 14 nights Price: From £2,699pp Departure: May 3
Company: Emerald Waterways Itinerary: Bucharest to Budapest, visiting Giurgiu, Rousse, Vidin, Donji Milanovac, Belgrade, Osijek and Kalocsa Duration: 11 days Price: From £3,445pp Departure: July 3
Company: APT Itinerary: Round-trip from Budapest, visiting Bratislava, Vienna, Mohács, Belgrade, Giurgiu (Bucharest), Rousse, Vidin, Novi Sad, Vukovar and Kalocsa. Duration: 15 days Price: From £5,495pp Departure: September 18
What’s included? • Flights from London (Manchester possible) • Transfers • All meals on board • Afternoon tea • Welcome cocktail and dinner • 24-hour tea and coffee • Internet and wi-fi access • Bike hire • Use of audio headsets • Taxes and port charges
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What’s included? • Flights from up to 16 airports • Transfers • All meals on board • Wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner • Full board pre and postcruise hotel nights • Excursions each day • EmeraldPlus and EmeraldActive experiences • Afternoon tea • Use of audio headsets • Use of bikes • Tips, port taxes and charges
What’s included? • Flights from a choice of airports • UK and overseas transfers • All meals on board • Unlimited drinks • Excursions each day • Four Signature Experiences • Use of audio headsets • Tips, port taxes and charges
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Russian waterways Cruising the canals, rivers and lakes that link Moscow and St Petersburg is a fascinating journey, providing an easy way to delve into Russian history and culture without worrying about the language. Trips include several nights afloat in each city, with included tours to highlights such as the Hermitage Museum and Kremlin, at the start and end of the trip
Affordable
Expensive
Extravagant
Company: CroisiEurope Itinerary: St Petersburg to Moscow, visiting Mandrogi, Kizhi Island, Goritsy, Yaroslavl and Uglich Duration: 11 days Price: From £1,733pp Departure: August 21
Company: Viking Itinerary: Moscow to St Petersburg, visiting Uglich, Yaroslavl, Kuzino, Kizhi Island and Mandrogi Duration: 13 days Price: From £3,795pp Departure: October 7
Company: Scenic Itinerary: St Petersburg to Moscow, visiting Mandrogi, Kizhi Island, Goritsy, Yaroslavl and Uglich Duration: 15 days Price: From £5,490pp Departure: July 5
What’s included? • All meals on board • One glass of wine, beer or a soft drink with lunch and dinner • Tea and coffee station • Afternoon tea every day • Excursions most days • Use of audio headsets • English-speaking guides • Two lunches ashore in St Petersburg and one in Moscow • Russian language and history lessons • All port fees
What’s included? • Return flights from London and up to 14 regional airports • Transfers • All meals on board • Welcome cocktails • Wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner • Russian language and history classes • Internet and wi-fi access • Speciality teas and coffees at all times • Shore excursions most days • Use of audio headsets • Crew tips
What’s included? • Flights and transfers • Butlers for all cabin grades • All meals on board • All speciality dining • Afternoon tea • Beer, wine or soft drinks with lunch and dinner • Internet and wi-fi access • Two exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences • Daily shore excursions • Use of audio headsets • Seven alternative Freechoice excursions • All tips
CRUISE-ADVISER.COM
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Douro It’s all about scenery on a Douro river cruise, which takes passengers on a voyage through northern Portugal, past lush vineyards, through deep valleys and on visits to wineries, great cities and historic villages as they sail from Porto on the Atlantic to the border with Spain and back
Affordable
Expensive
Extravagant
Company: A-Rosa Itinerary: Round-trip from Porto, visiting Régua, Pinhão, Vega de Terrón, Barca d’Alva and Bitetos Duration: Eight days Price: From £1,855pp Departure: June 24
Company: AmaWaterways Itinerary: Round-trip from Porto, visiting Entre-os-Rios, Régua, Pinhão, Vega de Terrón and Barca d’Alva Duration: Eight days Price: From £3,176pp Departure: September 12
Company: Uniworld River Cruises Itinerary: Round-trip from Porto, visiting Entre-os-Rios, Régua, Pinhão, Vega de Terrón and Barca d’Alva Duration: Eight days Price: From £4,799pp Departure: September 13
What’s included? • Flights from Stansted (Gatwick and Birmingham also available) • Transfers • Buffet meals on board • Afternoon tea • Premium inclusive drinks package • 25 per cent discount for children under 15 • 15 per cent discount on spa treatments • Use of sauna and gym • A guided tour of Porto • Use of audio headsets on tours • Services of an Englishspeaking host • Internet and wi-fi access • Port taxes and charges
What’s included? • All meals on board • Wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner • Sandwiches, snacks and refreshments served daily in the lounge • Sip and sail pre-dinner cocktail hour • Guided shore excursions each day • Personal headsets for use on tours • One lunch ashore at a quinta (local country estate) • Port wine tasting at a quinta • Sparkling wine and fresh juice with breakfast • Internet and Wi-Fi access • Port fees and taxes
What’s included? • Flights from Heathrow • Overseas transfers • All meals on board • Afternoon tea on selected days • 24-hour tea and coffee • Unlimited alcoholic and soft drinks • A choice of shore excursions most days • Butlers (suite passengers only) • One lunch ashore at a quinta • Quietvox audio headsets for use on tours • Use of bikes and Nordic walking sticks • Tips on board and ashore • Internet and wi-fi access • Port fees and taxes
1 edition. £2.3m in revenue A single issue of Explore, a publication created for Advantage Travel Partnership by Waterfront, generated more than 600 bookings*. Find out about creating your own loyalty magazine by emailing info@waterfront-publishing.com.
FE AT U RES | R O OM SE RVI C E M E NU | SHORE EXCUR SIONS
ISSUE ONE
GLOBE
ISSUE FOUR
THE ONLY DESTINATION FOR THOSE SELLING CRUISES
Explore Issue One
December 2016
MARCH 2018
BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
FJORD FOCUS A JOURNEY TO WEST NORWAY
*Source: Travel Weekly, November 2017
Jeannine Williamson joins CroisiEurope in the heart of Prague, before exploring the lesser-known Elbe en route to Berlin PLUS 10 OF THE BEST WILDLIFE CRUISES EXCLUSIVE RITZ-CARLTON INTERVIEW CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES IN AMSTERDAM
BRILLIANT BANGKOK INFOCUS: INTREPID COACH VS CRUISE HOW TO SELL: SOLO TRAVEL
WHY THE THAI CAPITAL IS SO MUCH MORE THAN A BACKPACKER HAVEN
CRUISE & MORE HOLIDAYS OF A LIFETIME
ON THE HORIZON THE LATEST CRUISE NEWS
EMERALD WATERWAYS AN IN-DEPTH LOOK
WONDERFUL WORLD FOUR BUCKET-LIST STOPS
2021 Viking river cruises are now on sale. Save ÂŁ1,000pp 2021 eight-day river cruises from ÂŁ1,495pp 020 8780 7900
www.vikingcruises.co.uk
Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available, departing on selected dates in 2021. Single supplements apply. Gratuities included on board ship only. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.