Cruising outpost #16 fall 2016 by Latitudes & Attitudes

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Since 1859

Ethan M. Edson Welder/Fabricator Ethan is Polishing & Buffing a Bi-Spoke Wheel

New Bedford, MA • N41° 43.2807’, W070° 57.1365’. .

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Issue #16 Fall 2016

Contents

Special Stuff in this Issue 12 22 51 62 68 82 114 120 124 136 142 146 152

G od g r a n t m e th e s er en ity to a c c ep t th e ter m s a n d c on dition s th a t I w ill n ot r ea d.

The Whole Nine Yards What Have I Done? Women Who Sail Beyond the Coast Docking - Two Sides to Every Story Featured Veteran Cruising Vessel Adia Life’s A Beach! Matthew Turner Update There’s This Place: Albania Featured Cruising Vessel - Cuttwater 28 Telesto Bitch Wings Cruising with the Gunas Storm in Fiji

Regular Stuff in this Issue Attitudes Bob Bitchin Scuttlebutt Another Way Tania Aebi What’s Out There: New Boat Designs Lifestyle Did I Do That? Flotsam & Jetsam Book Review Capt. Jim Cash Life Aboard Robin Stout Talk of the Dock Zuzana Prochazka Weather by Lee Trouble with Treb Rich Marker I Found It at the Boat Show Tech Tips Captain Pauly CO Events & News Bubba Whartz Morgan Stinemetz Mackie White Latitudes & Attitudes Cruisians

8 30 48 56 70 92 96 110 112 132 134 157 158 164 166 168 187 189 190

152

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A c c ep t c h a llen g es , s o th a t y ou m a y f eel th e ex h ila r a tion of v ic tor y . - G eor g e S. P a tton

Attitudes B y B ob B

Okay, here’s the q uestion of the day. How many of you have stood on the deck of your boat looking into a black and stormy sky and asked yourself, “What the hell am I doing out here?” Come on. Fess up. I can tell you with all honesty, I can recall numerous times I found myself standing at the rail, gripping a shroud, looking off into dark and stormy skies wishing I was anyplace but there. Why the hell would anyone want to face a storm? It doesn’t make any sense. Yet every time I ever cast off my lines to go on a voyage, I K N E W there would be days like that. So the q uestion remains: Why do sailors go to sea knowing they will be facing some uncomfortable sailing, or, at worst, a life-changing adventure? Well, I do have the answer. It took me a lot of years to fi ure it out ut here is hy do it. To live. After living aboard for about 35 years and sailing thru pretty much any and all conditions one would e ect to find moved ashore. don t remem er ex actly how it happened, but I soon found myself living up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Oh, I am still near water, and I still get out sailing 4-5 times a year. I even get to do a few ex tended crossings so I can, once again, throw this overly-large body into harms way, which is how I discovered the answer to my q uestion.

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itchin

hen first ecame a land slu as ha y as a clam when a storm would come in. Instead of throwing out another anchor I would throw another lo on the fire. could en oy the storm. But as soon as the thunder stopped and the lightening subsided, it was over. Where was the feeling of accomplishment? Where was the thrill I used to feel when we’d see a storm like that pass over us and watch it disappear off our stern? Livin ta es sacrifice. istin does not. f you want to feel the pride of sailing out from under a dark and stormy sky there is only one way to do it. You need to live it. Yes, your friends might think you’re nuts for doing it, but all those who have ever done it seem to get a little more out of their life. Sailors, for hundreds of years, have known you cannot become an able seaman if you never face your fears. Ask anyone who has ever crossed an ocean or even sailed through a local storm. You are more alive for the exp erience. I am not suggesting you take the boat out nex t time there’s a hurricane in your area. I am not totally craz y! But I am suggesting that on the nex t voyage you undertake, see a sq uall for what it is: a chance for you to feel alive! To feel the wind blowing and the sea spray in the air will do more to make you feel you are truly living than anything else you might ex perience!

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The Whole

Two wo Girls + One Dog

Part IX The End of an Adventure By Jessica Zevalkink

My nighttime anx iety has thickened. Never been one to be anx ious, but Katie’s prescription of X anax i s starting to look like a jar of cookies. I haven’t slept through the night in weeks. Not because I have been deprived of the opportunity; merely because in three days we will sail back into Northport, Michigan and cross our wake from two years ago, completing America’s Great L oop ex actly two years to the day. Katie and I have been traveling non-stop for 1 27 d ays from Key West, Florida. ish could record ith a chi er attitude a out this rand finale ut if am going to be honest with myself (which I have gotten much better at), I am the opposite of chi er. am uiet. And for the first time ever atie is uiet. hen anythin comes out of either of our mouths it’s rather crass, and the only thing that really gets a grin on either of our faces is when we bitch about something that does not, at all, req uire bitching.

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Nine Yards + One 27-Foot Boat

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The Whole Nine Yards

oes ron can call the i ard even thou h he have yet to sort out hy it is so difficult to in ro a ly ouldn t ans er the hone. oint my thou ht rocess and am e innin to thin very de ree e turn the ind follo s. very am sim ly rocessin nothin eriod. e ash into the tac e ma e is ushin us ac ards. n ei ht hours ind and aves er usual. e ush L ouis e hard and for no reason other than it is satisfactory to test not only her limits the ac inac rid e is the e act same distance ehind us. hen e assed underneath the structure it as ut ours as ell ecause e are so close to home. hey say ust ant it to o a ay. most accidents ha en ithin t o miles of your o n home. ma nificent. o y 00 .m. e ive u . ar ness is closin in currently ear a coat of false confidence and am fully eaver sland is too far. A mushroom cloud a are of it. e have cruised so conservatively so is ta in over half of the s y and it s cautiously e have een so timid since day een cree in on us all afternoon. one. art of me ishes re hatever At this oint e are ein stal ed. set of rooster e els carry ith me â&#x20AC;&#x153;The hardest thing he ind continues to increase no a year a o. in the world is to simplify m crum lin li e a stale nearly sto in us in our trac s. e divert to tur eon ove. muffin. creamin li e a oilin your life, its so easy to make it he chan e of course lays L ouis e tea ot. other nature does complexâ&#x20AC;? - Yvon Chouinard on her side and e y for ard ant us to ma e it home. he is movin the same s eed as the storm dictatin every decision e ma e as clouds. e can t outrun them anymore. incorrect. ith miles to travel from hy e didn t chan e course hours a o ac inac sland to eaver sland e left the is the only uestion to e as in ourselves. he s y har or no in it asn t oin to e a leasant ride. t has turned ammatus my favorite of all clouds althou h is not unusual for atie and to e the only ones leavin the har or e et a ic out of that. e no it s never they re resent nastiness. e set anchor in a sandy cove hich is not the most rilliant of ideas ut e no e ill e fine. at all a cove e osed in every direction ut one. n the At this oint home is around the corner. f somethin

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Part IX - The End of an Adventure cockpit I am stiff, perplex ed... I am done. I don’t know if I am frustrated that we are struggling to get home, or just frustrated that we are even going home. I think I am frustrated I am going home. The feeling of “the end” sinks in and it seems to be nothing but an unsurpassable road block. L ooking where the sun sinks towards the sea rests the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen, which is kind of making me angry. The sky has been raping us all day, and suddenly it wants to cuddle? Come on, that’s contradicting. Two days later we round Northport Point (my attempt to make this sound like an accomplishment eq uivalent to rounding Cape Horn) on a cloudy day wearing nothing but smiles. Well, not really. We have clothes on. The king sheet (genoa) is unfurled to its largest and we are closehauled in 1 5 knots of wind. I have a bit of weather helm ut don t care ri ht no . e sna e around the final red buoy and adjust our course for my house on North Shore Drive. L ouis e lays gracefully sideways on a beam reach and we adjust the king sheet as per her req uest. The mainsail is not up because… because that req uires work, of course.

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Nothing really seems to matter today. It doesn’t matter that we have completed America’s Great L oop. It doesn’t matter how many miles we have covered. It doesn’t matter it took two years. My bank account doesn’t matter. My awful Walmart haircut and damaged skin doesn’t matter. The only thing that does matter is right in front of me: Katie, Reggie, and L ouis e. I am so proud of them. Katie and I worked through situations that, with no one else, I could have. The trust and respect I hold for her will doubtfully be trumped by another. She is still my best friend - my sister. Reggie dog, the wise and properly traveled creature, has taught me many things aside from the value of companionship. Katie took care of Reggie better than I have ever witnessed anyone take care of anything or anybody. L ouis e took us to places I never would have otherwise seen. L ouis e showed me the power of simplicity. I am at a loss for words as I recogniz e what I have had in front of me since the day I left. I don’t even notice the last few miles of bohemian blue water. All I see are people who helped Katie and I accomplish this. There are doz ens, if not hundreds, who

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The Whole Nine Yards

lifted a fin er on our ehalf and it is their faces see hen scan orth ort ay. he i ard and his a rentice our dads should e a earin on the hori on at any moment and e ee a een eye out for ossi le sus ects. hen atie s hone rin s it s her dad. ey irls e ro e do n. otta et a to and ho on another oat ut ee on comin his is hysterical as e envision L ouis e to in a o er oat lar er than herself ac to the marina for our rand finale. mean hat are the chances that the men ho tau ht us everythin e no rea do n on their ay to elcome home their dau hters illy uestion. he chances are ood very ood. ithin the half hour e s ot four ac asses say this ith love hootin and hollerin li e

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Part IX - The End of an Adventure

teenage boys. The wiz ard is driving full throttle per usual, making certain that everyone is uncomfortable but him. The laughing starts and won’t stop. I am laughing. I am crying. I am laughing. I am crying. They keep coming towards us and the wiz ard circles around so close to the cockpit he drenches us with gallons of L ake Michigan. We wave and they wave. We holler and they holler. We laugh. They laugh. We carry on, holding our course, and they drive around

us in circles. Katie and I look at them and they look back at us. This goes on and on and we all want to press the pause button. It becomes more than a moment. It becomes another thing in front of me that proves nothing else matters. This is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. The treasure at the end of the map. The toy at the bottom of Cracker J acks. We win. They are proud. We are proud. We have come full circle.

THANKS

Two v ery happy d ad s wel com e the ad v entu rers hom e!

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TO A

FRIEND

This cl osing articl e is d ed icated to B il l S weeney . We m et B il l and his wif e B onnie in ou r hom eport the d ay b ef ore we l ef t f or “ the l oop” . B il l and B onnie spent y ears part- tim e l ooping and we crossed paths on the water m ore tim es than I can cou nt. B il l recentl y passed , and I d id not get the chance to thank him in person f or b eing ou r b iggest cheerl ead er, enthu siast, and reason to k eep ou r chins u p. B il l nev er stopped encou raging m e to write and I can’ t thank him enou gh f or that. We l ov e y ou B il l .

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What

Now approaching two years into retirement, my wife, Torie, and I have been settling somewhat successfully into our new, watery life aboard Solitude, our Hylas 54. Since leaving the working world in May, 201 4, we have sailed from Washington, DC to New E ngland for the summer, then to the Bahamas to hide from the winter, then up north again to Nova Scotia to hide from last summer. Now we are back south again, hiding from this winter in the Caribbean. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good to be us. We continue to hear about the poor winter weather in the Northeast and the craz y election politics in the U.S. The news is hard to escape even now, as we are working our way down the E astern Caribbean islands with less access to good Internet. On the days when I begin to feel that I have had enough of full-time sailing and start thinking about going back to work and living a more normal safer climate controlled life find that readin the ne s our only o tion out here since we have little access to E nglish speaking TV or radio -- can be particularly emotionally restorative in that it serves to reinforce our decision to be right where we are. To be sure, this life has its ups and downs, particularly for a person like me who enjoyed working and yet, to my colleaguesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; disbelief, voluntarily cashed out early to sail around

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Have I Done? B y G ary R u bi n aboar d S

V S ol itu de

the world. While not recogniz ed by the psychiatric community, “paycheck separation anx iety” is real - especially when ex pensive things break on the boat or that really nice bottle of Scotch whiskey calls out to me. But aside from my occasional feelings of “What have I done?” this is a great way to live. Reading about the political circus in the U.S. makes us even happier to be down here in the Caribbean, away from the cold and madness. More than ever, we feel so grateful WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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What Have I Done? to be able to ex plore the world by boat, meet fascinating, onderful eo le and have an o ortunity to re ect on what is going on… from a distance. We made the big hop to the Caribbean in November via the Salty Dawg Rally, which was a 1 500-mile miserable, upwind slog from Hampton, VA to Virgin Gorda. Besides a great crew of friends and an amaz ingly supportive rally, the only thing good to say about the crossing was that nothing broke and we did manage to avoid that surprise late-season hurricane that threatened to make an already uncomfortable trip even worse. We arrived in Virgin Gorda with a time of just over 1 0 days. Trying to get out of the way of a hurricane was the best motivation I have ever had to sail q uickly. Our usual considerations of how to balance speed with comfort was no longer in effect. Sailing fast upwind in stiff breez es kept everyone on their toes and wore us out. Tired, salty and wet was far better than to be scared, salty and wet if we were to have been caught in that hurricane. We hung out in the Virgins for a few weeks and then said a sad goodbye to our crew. Back as the sailing team of Gary and Torie, we picked our way south, making the upwind overnight crossing from the BVIs to St Martin without drama in comparatively pleasant 1 0-knot winds on the nose. We motored upwind for this leg. I am not too proud to press the Yanmar easy button. Motoring in benign conditions was the right way to go, especially because we were still nursing raw nerves from our crossing from Hampton to Virgin Gorda. After leaving St Martin, where we stayed for several ee s e continued our south ard tre . ur first sto was at the British islands of Barbuda and Antigua. Then we continued further south to Guadeloupe, a French

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island, where once again we were reunited with our old friends: baguettes, croissants, and espressos. The French really know how to do carbs and caffeine, and for that we are grateful. We decided to bypass the main island of Guadeloupe and instead, headed right to a cluster of beautiful smaller islands off the southern tip of Guadeloupe called Iles des Saintes, known as “The Saints,” where we enjoyed a calm anchorage and superb diving for a couple of days, followed by an easy eighthour sail to Dominica. To make destination and routing decisions, in addition to the Internet (when we could get it) and our on oard li rary of re ion s ecific uide oo s e ere relying more on our VHF radio for information. While transitioning between islands, we occasionally saw another vessel traveling in the opposite direction. We called them, or they contacted us via VHF radio, to ex change information on where to go and what to do, and more importantly, what and where to avoid. Information like this is invaluable for us both and is as fresh as it gets, using an age-old low-tech method of information sharing called talking. The community of sailors - both formal and informal – a re an essential resource to keep this a fun, rather than a scary, adventure. Out cruising, in-person and online social interactions are very powerful tools, just as they are in business, to drive good decisions. We trust sailors who have recent ex perience in the places we are planning to go and rely on their valuable insights to augment the information in our library of guidebooks and the Internet. In my prior life hen ran a si nificant ortion of the usiness at the Society of Human Resources (SHRM), I used the same process for decision-making, but rather than using a VHF

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radio to gather fresh information, I relied on attending conferences, staying up to date on the latest information via periodicals and the Internet, meetings with my team and maintaining a good network of association professionals to consult, to enable fully informed decisions. It is the same out here… j ust without a desk, conference rooms, air conditioning, and that paycheck. As we have sailed further south, we have encountered fewer large yachts and cruise ships and the number of sailors and sailboats like ours are thinning out. That’s OK with us. We are seeing fewer Americans and many more sailors who have sailed here from E urope. Meeting more people with backgrounds that are different than ours makes our travels all the more interesting. Despite geographic differences, we share the same love of adventure, the desire to ex periencing new things, the sense of accomplishment derived from crossing seas and arriving safely in beautiful

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anchorages, and so on … with one ex ception: we have noticed that sailors from one particular country like to be naked (you know who you are). I am not sure how to feel about this. While I think – how nice, they are probably more comfortable strutting their stuff in public than I am – one must consider that on a sailboat in the tropics with the intense sun, there is a lot of upside to keeping your parts covered. E ven in the sky you rarely see the sun and a moon at the same time. And, for the most part, after seeing our sun-loving nei h ors from distant lands have found that fit and naked are infreq uently found in that combination… not a judgment, just an observation. The nex t island we sailed to was Dominica. Dominica was one of our favorite islands. It is a special place whose residents have shunned much development to preserve the natural state of their island. The island itself is volcanic ith nine distinct ea s. hese volcanoes are classified

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What Have I Done? by geologists as “active” or “potentially active,” although many have not erupted in more than a thousand years. It seems to me that geologists have very low performance standards. I would not invest in any company recommended by a geologist. The volcanoes, when they last did some actual work, formed peaks that are q uite high, creating rain forests masked by ever-present clouds at the top of each mountain. We have been completely af ed as to ho to predict oncoming rain by observing the clouds as we sat in our sealevel anchorage below these mountains. Sometimes the clouds would stay high in the hills for hours, stationary. Sometimes, for reasons unknown to us,, they would drop down from the hilltops and pour down rain. The closest we came to accurately predicting the arrival of rain was to open up hatches to cool down our boat. This activity almost always produced rain. How does the rain know? There must be some secret natural force that also signals to birds to drop their own version of rain on a car that has been freshly washed. Perhaps geologists, in their free time between eruptions, can turn their attention to ex plaining these regular natural occurrences. Despite our wet cushions and our regular rain dance, which would look to you like two people running around opening and closing hatches, there are some advantages. esides ashin the salt off our dec s the rain enefits the people in Dominica because the abundant water

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allows them to grow many fruits and vegetables. So unlike many of the Caribbean islands we have visited further north that are arid, forcing the residents to rely on weekly boats carrying fruits and vegetables from distant places, the people in Dominica enefit from readily available fresh food. Vegetables from the markets in many of the other small Caribbean islands are typically lim ith a avor somewhere between diesel ex haust and used socks, resulting from sitting in small, hot and rusting inter-island delivery ships that belch clouds of diesel smoke for ex tended periods of time. The one ex ception seems to be consistently carrots, bananas, potatoes, onions and cabbage. These vegetables are the cockroaches of the vegetable world, surviving in harsh conditions when others die. We eat a lot of carrots. We’d eat more onions and cabbage, but when living on a boat with limited interior atmosphere, keeping the air smelling fresh is important, particularly since ventilating the boat by opening the hatches has proved to be problematic due to their rain producing q ualities discussed earlier. Despite the banana’s availability and q uality down here, we don’t ever bring bananas on the boat. Never. There are many nautical superstitions, and in the arena of things that are bad luck on a boat, bananas have a front row seat. They are so bad that we have been coached to not even think the word banana while

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7/22/16 1:56 PM

There is nothing sadder: another A-Sail languishing in the dark. The Reflex furling

at sea. I should not even be typing this word while I’m on board. It’s the other forbidden fruit. We have no idea why they are so bad. They just are. Our obedience to the no-banana edict may seem completely illogical. It is. Given all the things that can go wrong out here, we are not about to tempt fate over a banana. If the banana superstition does not make any sense, eliminating risks, even those we don’t fully understand, well… does. So now, compared to more northern Caribbean islands, Dominica is a vegetable paradise with available fresh lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and numerous other vegetables we have never seen nor heard of. The days of waiting at a small Mom & Pop store for the weekly mail boat to arrive, and competing for that limp bunch of greens with other vegetable craz ed island dwellers, are over. For the moment, our own boat’s culinary options are ex panding from staples like peanut butter sandwiches and pasta to salads and fresh fruit for breakfast. I am pretending to be a healthy eater, motivated more by food boredom and my own ingrained fear of some of the very ugly, shriveled, dried and salt-crusted fishy thin s that e have seen in mar ets and meat counters that appear to me to be more of an aerial photo of the carnage resulting from a plane crash than an appetiz ing array of q uality meats and poultry. If it is a protein, unless I catch it myself, I have been reluctant to buy it and eat it. Slowly, my wife’s dream of a vegetarian life is coming true. I desperately need to im rove my fishin s ills.

HEAD SWIVEL: Responsive new geometry starts winding the sail immediately when you pull the furling line.

system is here to end that. It transfers torque 2x as effectively from furling lineto-head swivel as anything we’ve ever tested. And getting the top of the furler started quickly is the key to reliable, complete, beautiful furls. Introducing Reflex. It’s

TORSION CABLE: Polyester core inside tightly woven stainless. Transfers torque to the head swivel 2x better than anything we’ve tested.

time top down furling lived up to the promise. Asymmetricals of the world, report to the foredeck!

DRIVE UNIT: Powerful large diameter drive sheave. Unique quick-release design lets one unit furl all your kites.

AT THE FRONT

www.harken.com/Reflex

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Cruising Outpost 25 7/22/16 1:56 PM

pg 28-29 Bue Wtaer Sailing School.indd 2

7/27/16 3:11 PM

pg 28-29 Bue Wtaer Sailing School.indd 3

7/27/16 3:12 PM

A s oldier w h o s ur v iv ed m us ta r d g a s a n d p ep p er s p r a y is n ow a s ea s on ed v eter a n .

Scuttlebutt

All the news that fits It’s Come to This

Dark & Stormy 20th Anniversary!

To celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Dark & Stormy Regatta in the British Virgin Islands, we have decided to move the CO/ Tradewinds Radio Cruisers’ Bashes to coincide with this fun event. Soooo... We will hold our St. Maarten Party on Kinsha Beach at the Buccanneer Bar on Feb. 25th, and then, for those who want to sail in the Dark & Stormy, you have five full days to sail the 100 miles north to Marina Cay where you can join the “Cruiser’s Class” in the regatta. But you don’t have to sail in the regatta to join in the fun of the post-regatta Cruisers’ Bash on Nanny Cay on March 6th. And, it’s free, of course! (More details on pg. 45)

Yes, Pokémon Go has invaded our waterways. Because of this, BoatUS has issued these tips for capturing Pokémon while boating: 1. Avoid accidents. Let the first mate and crew look for Pokémon so the captain can focus on driving or sailing the boat. 2. Watch your cell battery usage. The game eats up your battery charge so make sure you have a spare charger and a VHF radio for emergency calls. 3. Have fun!

Nautical Trivia Of all the pirate captains throughout history, which one was the most successful? (Wanna cheat? The answer is on page 46)

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O ay

oney I‛ve eci e to forgive you for screa ing at e last night! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

8/2/16 2:38 PM

pg 31 AB Inflatables.indd 1

7/29/16 11:09 AM

Scuttlebutt E asy Catamarans? The American Sailing Association (ASA) has announced the publication of the new official manual for its Catamaran Cruising Course (ASA 1 1 4). It focusses ex clusively on how to operate a larger catamaran with its distinctive characteristics and operating systems. Published in full color, Cruising Catamarans Made E asy was written by a team of ex pert sailing instructors with more than 250 years of combined sailing ex perience. The 1 00-page book was also co-edited by Peter Isler, two time America’s Cup winner. It’s currently available for purchase on the ASA website www.asa.com.

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Oh no! We‛ve lost our life raft! It‛s the only place we have been able to use to get away when we argue!

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

8/2/16 2:39 PM

WINDPROOF. WATERPROOF. WHAT MORE PROOF DO YOU NEED? IN32 INSHORE LITE JACKET AND TROUSERS You don’t have to sail every day to enjoy every minute. Protected enough for inshore. Sharp enough for onshore. This is one jacket that has it all. Lightweight. Breathable. Waterproof. When you’re ready, it’s ready. Wherever. Whenever. Available from West Marine and other fine Gill retailers. G I L L NA .COM

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GILL-CR-OUTPOST-IN32.indd 1 pg 33 Gill.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 33 4/20/16 12:32 PM 7/30/16 11:27 AM

T hi s dy s lex ic m anw

al k s i nt oabr

Scuttlebutt P l ay a G ame, L earn to Sail Wanna learn how to sail? Well, there’s an app for that! The American Sailing Association (ASA) is the sail education authority, and they’ve teamed up with longtime sailing enthusiast, visionary and founder of Atari, Nolan Bushnell, to make it fun and easy. His new educational software development company, Brainrush, worked with ASA to develop a breakthrough educational video sailing game, Sailing Challenge. It combines video gaming technology and educational software, and incorporates real brain science in a way that will fundamentally change how people learn to sail. The app has qui ckly turned into a fun game to play regardless of the user’s level of sailing ex perience. Sailing Challenge has six f un, easy-to-use modules that unlock the mysteries of sailing. L earn Points of Sail, Apparent Wind, Sail Trim, Tacking and J ibing, Rules of the Road and Docking. Then, put it all together when you race the clock in the “Sailing module.” Sailing Challenge is available now in the Apple store and Google play.

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8/2/16 2:40 PM

Ultimate

Tank to Engine Fuel Protection FilterBOSS Commander

60, 90, 180 Gallons Per Hour Fuel Flow Models Available • Dual Filter System (Racor Turbine Series) • Fuel Polishing • Easy Filter Replacement • Remote Clogged Filter Warning • Remote Operation (Optional) • Fuel System Testing (Air Leaks & Operation)

• • • • •

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FC 60 V

Fuel Polishing Systems for Tight Spaces FPM 60, 90 & 180 (Polishing) Gallons Per Hour Models Available Our new compact FilterBoss fuel polishing modules (FPM) are designed to fit into tight engine compartments. They have such a small footprint that many boat owners will now be able to install a filtration system where traditional units would have never fit before. This allows them to take advantage of KTI’s advanced onboard fuel polishing to virtually eliminate fuel contamination, the number one cause of engine problems.

FPM Series 60

60 Gallons Per Hour (Polishing)

Made in the USA

Don’t Leave Shore Without It 800.336.0315 • www.ktisystems.com WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 35 KTI FilterBoss.indd 1

See us at the Annapolis Sailboat or Fort Lauderdale Boat Shows Annapolis - Booth YB17 | Ft Lauderdale - Booth 455

7/29/16 10:57 AM

Scuttlebutt O l iv er H az ard P

erry is R ead y to R ol l

The 200-foot Tall Ship SSV O liv er H a z a r d P er r y completed the drills, as well as inspections, req uired by the US Coast Guard in order for the ship to q ualify as a Sailing School Vessel under USCG regulations. The drills on Narragansett Bay were under full sail and in brisk breez es. The threemasted, full rigged ship is Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ne est all hi and hode sland s official ailin ducation essel. She carries 1 4,000 sq uare feet of sail area and seven miles of running ri in . er tallest mast is 1 stories hi h and she s the first ocean going full-rigged ship to be built in America in over a hundred years.

Scuttlebutt 36 Cruising Outpost _Pg 30-47 Scuttlebutt.indd 8

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8/2/16 2:40 PM

Scuttlebutt A F u ru no B attl eship ? The US Navy has launched USS Z um w a lt, the lead ship of the all-new Z umwalt-class of stealth destroyers. The vessel was named for Admiral E lmo R. “Bud” Z umwalt and was developed under the US Navy’s “21 st Century Destroyer” program. Furuno was selected as the primary navigation and emergency communications provider for the USS Z um w a lt. They provided training and support throughout the commissioning process. The system met all ex pectations of Bath Iron Works and the US Navy.

Ac c ord ing to Statistic s. . . Six out of Seven Dwarves are not Happy.

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E d ib l e Six- P ac k R ings

Plastic six-pack rings have been a threat to ocean wildlife for a long time now. Besides getting hopelessly tangled in them, some wildlife mistake them for food and die when the material clogs their digestive system. To solve this problem two Florida based organizations, We Believers (a co-creation advertising agency) and the craft beer brand Saltwater Brewery, have designed and produced non-plastic, edible, biodegradable can rings made of barley and wheat, which are byproducts of the beer brewing process. The team produced 500 rings so far this year, and are hoping to share their product with other breweries in the future.

Cruising Outpost 37 8/2/16 2:41 PM

Great Ideas!

䤀渀㄀㤀㜀㐀眀攀栀愀搀愀最爀攀愀琀椀搀攀愀㨀戀甀椀氀搀愀猀攀愀眀漀爀琀栀礀礀愀挀栀琀眀椀琀栀愀猀琀爀漀渀最挀漀洀洀椀琀琀洀攀渀琀琀漀瘀愀氀甀攀⸀ 䘀漀爀琀栀攀瀀愀猀琀㐀㌀礀攀愀爀猀眀攀栀愀瘀攀攀洀戀爀愀挀攀搀琀栀愀琀椀搀攀愀愀渀搀愀搀搀攀搀瀀氀攀渀琀礀漀昀渀攀眀漀渀攀猀⸀ 吀漀搀愀礀眀攀栀愀瘀攀㄀㈀洀漀搀攀氀猀Ⰰ 猀椀砀挀愀琀ⴀ爀椀最最攀搀猀愀椀氀戀漀愀琀猀Ⰰ 昀椀瘀攀猀氀漀漀瀀ⴀ爀椀最最攀搀猀愀椀氀戀漀愀琀猀愀渀搀漀渀攀瀀漀眀攀爀氀愀甀渀挀栀⸀ 䔀愀挀栀戀漀愀琀Ⰰ 昀爀漀洀愀㄀㐀ᤠ 倀椀挀渀椀挀䌀愀琀琀漀漀甀爀㈀㜀ᤠ 䌀爀甀椀猀攀爀Ⰰ 椀猀渀漀琀漀渀氀礀栀愀渀搀ⴀ戀甀椀氀琀琀漀漀甀爀漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀椀搀攀愀戀甀琀愀爀攀猀椀洀瀀氀礀愀樀漀礀琀漀猀愀椀氀⸀ 䄀渀搀椀猀渀ᠠ琀琀栀愀琀眀栀礀眀攀猀愀椀氀椀渀琀栀攀昀椀爀猀琀瀀氀愀挀攀㼀䈀甀琀眀攀眀漀渀ᤠ琀猀琀漀瀀琀栀攀爀攀⸀ 吀攀氀氀甀猀礀漀甀爀搀爀攀愀洀猀愀渀搀椀搀攀愀猀⸀ 圀攀ᤠ氀氀眀漀爀欀眀椀琀栀礀漀甀琀漀挀爀攀愀琀攀愀琀爀甀氀礀瀀攀爀猀漀渀愀氀椀稀攀搀䌀漀洀ⴀ倀愀挀夀愀挀栀琀⸀ 圀攀琀栀椀渀欀礀漀甀ᤠ氀氀愀最爀攀攀琀栀愀琀ᤠ猀愀最爀攀愀琀椀搀攀愀℀

Build Your Dream? “ We can Do That!” 䠀甀琀挀栀椀渀猀䌀漀⸀Ⰰ 䤀渀挀⸀ ㄀㄀㤀㔀䬀愀瀀瀀䐀爀椀瘀攀䌀氀攀愀爀眀愀琀攀爀Ⰰ 䘀䰀㌀㌀㜀㘀㔀 38 Cruising Outpost

pg 38 Com-Pac Yachts.indd 1

眀眀眀⸀䌀漀洀ⴀ倀愀挀夀愀挀栀琀猀⸀挀漀洀椀渀昀漀䀀䌀漀洀ⴀ倀愀挀夀愀挀栀琀猀⸀挀漀洀㜀㈀㜀ⴀ㐀㐀㌀ⴀ㐀㐀㠀 WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/30/16 1:28 PM

Scuttlebutt

W h a t do y ou c a ll a din os a ur w ith a n ex ten s iv e v oc a b ula r y ? A th es a ur us .

Dave Thomp son 19462016

50 Y ears and Cel eb rating

It was 50 years ago that the Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) got its start as the result of one man’s desire to make recreational boating better for boaters, sailors, and anglers. To celebrate this milestone, the nation’s largest recreational boat owner advocacy, services and safety organization held a series of local celebrations to say thanks to its over half million members. The informal celebrations included hors d’oeuvres and prizes as a way to gather and thank BoatUS members for their continued support over the years. You’re welcome!

It is with great sadness that we announce Dave Thompson passed away due to cancer, just shy of his 7 0th birthday. Dave was the man who we called whenever we had an insurmountable problem on S/V L os t Soul. He worked out of King Harbor Marine Center in Redondo Beach for many years, and was a partner in acific autical o er. e s ent the past 1 0 years living off the grid in Berry Creek, CA, on the Feather River where it meets L ake Oroville, just a few miles from the ruisin ut ost ffices. e ill be missed by all who knew him.

Fred always had a short-man complex!

Scuttlebutt

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Cruising Outpost 39

8/2/16 2:41 PM

Scuttlebutt A Sensib l e Q u estion If practice makes perfect, and nobody is perfect... Why practice?

Flag Talk

oo I‛ not calling before p inutes are free after that!

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y cell plan

Okay, this is the same flag you see on our cover every issue. It is the “P” flag in our logo. And it fits! It means “A l l persons report on boar d as this v essel is abou t to pu t to sea! ”

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

8/2/16 2:42 PM

DREAM WITHOUT LIMITS With over 40 beautiful locations to choose from, we can transport you to some of the finest sailing grounds and stunning places on earth, including the Caribbean, Asia, the Pacific Ocean, the Indian Ocean and Europe. Our fleet of over 700 yachts is more diverse in models and manufacturers than any other charter company, each with an individual character and maintained to the highest standards. Make your next yacht charter the vacation of your dreams.

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 41 Dream Yachts.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 41

7/29/16 10:41 AM

Scuttlebutt F l oating Art Show

G iv e m e on e g ood r ea s on to a c t m y a g e!

The L ake Champlain Community Sailing Center unveiled the first ever loatin allery a collection of ori inal art or rinted on sail oat sails. he roduct of an ei ht month lon ro ect loatin allery features or y four local artists cott A. am ell ichael i e A y anoc and ary Lacy all ith a vision to create a one of a ind aterfront e erience for the urlin ton community.

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WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

8/2/16 2:43 PM

䰀攀攀儀甀愀氀椀琀礀椀猀唀渀猀甀爀瀀愀猀猀攀搀⸀

吀愀欀攀愀眀愀氀欀椀渀愀渀礀洀愀爀椀渀愀愀渀搀礀漀甀ᤠ氀氀昀椀渀搀䰀攀攀匀愀椀氀猀⸀ 圀栀礀㼀匀椀渀挀攀㄀㤀㐀㜀眀攀栀愀瘀攀戀攀攀渀愀眀漀爀氀搀眀椀搀攀氀攀愀搀攀爀椀渀栀愀渀搀挀爀愀昀琀攀搀Ⰰ 栀椀最栀焀甀愀氀椀琀礀挀爀甀椀猀椀渀最猀愀椀氀猀⸀ 䘀爀漀洀吀愀氀氀匀栀椀瀀猀琀漀猀洀愀氀氀戀漀愀琀猀Ⰰ 攀瘀攀爀礀䰀攀攀匀愀椀氀椀猀戀甀椀氀琀眀椀琀栀琀栀攀猀愀洀攀挀漀洀洀椀琀ⴀ 洀攀渀琀琀漀猀甀瀀攀爀椀漀爀焀甀愀氀椀琀礀愀渀搀瘀愀氀甀攀⸀ 圀栀攀琀栀攀爀礀漀甀ᤠ爀攀挀爀漀猀猀椀渀最愀渀漀挀攀愀渀漀爀猀愀椀氀椀渀最挀氀漀猀攀琀漀栀漀洀攀Ⰰ 礀漀甀ᤠ氀氀欀渀漀眀礀漀甀爀猀愀椀氀猀眀椀氀氀栀漀氀搀琀栀攀椀爀猀栀愀瀀攀愀渀搀氀愀猀琀氀漀渀最攀爀⸀ 吀栀愀琀ᤠ猀眀栀礀眀攀挀漀渀昀椀搀攀渀琀氀礀猀愀礀 ᰠ䐀愀爀攀琀漀䌀漀洀瀀愀爀攀ᴠ℀

䐀愀爀攀琀漀䌀漀洀瀀愀爀攀℀

嘀椀猀椀琀眀眀眀⸀氀攀攀猀愀椀氀猀搀椀爀攀挀琀⸀挀漀洀琀漀搀愀礀琀漀瘀椀攀眀漀甀爀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀瀀爀漀挀攀猀猀Ⰰ 栀愀爀搀眀愀爀攀Ⰰ 爀攀愀搀琀攀猀琀椀洀漀渀椀愀氀猀愀渀搀漀戀琀愀椀渀愀焀甀漀琀攀⸀

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䐀䤀刀䔀䌀吀⸀挀漀洀

Cruising Outpost 43

7/29/16 12:31 PM

pg 44 Conch Charters.indd 1

7/27/16 2:52 PM

Scuttlebutt

I w on der if c louds ev er look dow n on us a n d s a y , “ H ey look , th a t on e is s h a p ed lik e a n idiot. ”

Cru isers to G ather in St. M aarten and the B V I They say timing is everything, and the timing on this couldn’t be much better! We start February 25th, Saturday evening, at the Buccaneer Bar on Kimsha Beach in Dutch St. Maarten, for our Third Annual Cruiser’s Bash. L ast year’s event brought together abut 500 people for a perfect evening of fun and games. Then, for the more adventuresome, there is the option to sail 100 m iles north (and six days to do it!) to Marina Cay in the BVIs to join the 20th Annual Dark & Stormy Regatta. There is a special “Cruising Class” and the regatta sails to Anegada, and then on to Tortola where, on Monday evening, March 6th, more cruisers will join the party at Peg L egs in Nanny Cay on Tortola. No, you don’t have to sail in the regatta to join the party, and as with all Cruising Outpost Cruisers’ E vents, there is no charge and no registration needed to join in the fun. ust sail or y in for this reat one-night event. This is the third year that Tradewinds Radio and Cruising Outpost have joined together to bring a little more fun into the lives of cruisers. Want to see more of what it’s like? You can see pics from the last two years’ events at cruisingoutpost.com, and go to the “past events” area of the site.

Scuttlebutt WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cruising Outpost 45 8/2/16 2:43 PM

Nautical Trivia

(A nswer to qu

estion on page 30)

B l ac kb eard you say? N op e, onl y # 8 . Sir F ranc is Drake? Cl ose, # 2, b u t the most su c c essf u l p irate ever w as L ad y Cheng I. Sao, a f ormer p rostitu te. Du ring the earl y 1 8 00s she c ommand ed one of the most formidable pirate fleets in all of China. With 1500 ship s and 8 0, 000 sail ors u nd er her c ommand , it w as one of the b ig g est naval armies in the history of the w orl d . She u sed them to rob and tax tow ns, and to p l u nd er ship s in the the Sou th China Sea. Arrrg g hh!

O ne M ore Ap p f or That The “Go Sailing” iOS mobile app, which connects people interested in sharing the ex perience of sailing, has been acq uired by the American Sailing Association (ASA). Go Sailing (formerly Kroocial) as first launched in the an Francisco Bay Area in March 201 3 with the mission of making sailing accessible to everyone from novices to salty dogs, and to promote a healthy and active lifestyle. The simple and user-friendly solution for skippers needing crew and sailors wanting to sail q uickly developed a large community of passionate users. Key features of the Go Sailing app allow users to easily: • Post a sailing trip in order to find cre . • Discover upcoming sailing trips and join as crew. • L earn to sail by taking an introductory Go Sailing expe rience. • Communicate effectively and efficiently ith cre s from within the app. • Keep track of trips, sailing uddies certifications and more. Go Sailing is available in the Apple app store now, and will be available to Android users shortly.

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I never finish anythi

Scuttlebutt ACTIV E P IR ACY R E P O R T J u l y 28 , 201 6 - 05 20 L T, SDS Terminal , L u b u k G au ng , Ind onesia: Six rob b ers armed w ith knives b oard ed a b erthed p rod u c t tanker and entered the eng ine room. They took hostag e the O il er and 3 / E , stol e ship ’s sp ares and 3 / E ’s p ersonal ef f ec ts and esc ap ed . Inc id ent rep orted to the P ort Control . J u l y 26 , 201 6 - 03 3 8 L T, Sekond i N aval B erth, Takorad i, G hana: A rob b er armed w ith a knif e in a smal l b oat b oard ed a b erthed of f shore tu g . Dec k c rew notic ed the rob b er, raised the al arm and ap p roac hed the rob b er. Seeing the ap p roac hing c rew the rob b er esc ap ed . Ship ’s p rop erty rep orted stol en. P ort c ontrol inf ormed . J u l y 24 , 201 6 - 2220 L T, Samarind a Anc horag e, Ind onesia: Three rob b ers in a smal l w ood en motor b oat ap p roac hed and b oard ed an anc hored b u l k c arrier. Du ty c rew on rou tine rou nd s notic ed the rob b ers and raised the al arm. Seeing the c rew al ertness, the rob b ers esc ap ed w ith stol en ship ’s stores. A searc h w as c arried ou t throu g hou t the ship . Inc id ent rep orted to p ort c ontrol and the p ort p ol ic e arrived at the l oc ation f or investig ation. J u l y 20, 201 6 - 04 3 0 L T, Tal ara R oad s, P eru : Du ring rou tine sec u rity rou nd s onb oard an anc hored tanker the d u ty c rew notic ed a smal l motor b oat near the starb oard anc hor c hain w ith one rob b er in the b oat and another c l imb ing u p the anc hor c hain. H e immed iatel y inf ormed the O O W w ho raised the al arm and d irec ted a searc h l ig ht tow ard s the rob b ers. H earing the al arm and seeing the c rew al ertness, the rob b ers esc ap ed in their b oat. Inc id ent rep orted to p ort c ontrol .

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8/2/16 2:45 PM

Another Way At noon, on a very fine July Tuesday, we pulled up the mainsail, which still had in the fi rst reef from the last sail, steered off the mooring and drifted up toward the Sakonnet Bridge. The next five and a half hours were spent taking out that reef, snacking, waiting for the wind to pick up so we could do more than just ghost along, and, when it did, tacking around the upper reaches of Narragansett Bay. I was with my sixteen-year-old nephew, Gregory, who’d said he wanted to sail with me, hadn’t been pushed into service by his parents, cajoled into cultivating an interest in something or anything by anyone. He had genuinely wanted to come, asked for it independent of any prodding, and I was flattered to have a teenager seek my company, even if it was just for access to a boat. He’d been dropped off by his mother and sister, who spent Monday night on this very small 32-footer, a size selected precisely to discourage people from inviting themselves over. My boat was to be for me, shared with another person for any length of time, sometimes a third, briefly. After a quarter century of raising two boys between taking people sailing as a vocation, I wanted to enjoy my avocation again without worrying about anyone other than myself. Those who came aboard would have to be types who could share in the worrying. Aside from having more space and comfort, big boats take more out of their owners in every way, and this stage of life was all about trying to avoid anything that cost too much, emotionally or financially. So, we had been four for the night, temporarily using up every available square inch, and losing two bodies was a really good way to make a boat feel bigger. In all our newfound roominess, Gregory eagerly hoisted the mainsail and steered us up the channel between Tiverton and Portsmouth, around the northern tip of Aquidneck Island, under the Mount Hope Bridge,

48 Cruising Outpost pg 48-49 Another Way.indd 2

almost all the way to Prudence Island and Potters Cove, one of our potential destinations for the night. But, it had turned into such a beautiful, breezy and sunny afternoon, I decided to keep going to Dutch Harbor, off the west coast of Conanicut Island. As we tacked between Prudence and Aquidneck, out of the path of an approaching barge, Gregory decided his book was more interesting, and he went below to read, which pretty much became his idea of sailing. Politely offering to come up whenever it was time to tack again, he left me alone in the cockpit, and I steered for the northern tip of Conanicut, through a fleet of racing boats doing drills. Gregory is not a talker, but when asked if he was enjoying himself, he said what he really wanted was to be out of sight of land, on big ocean swells. Originally, I had suggested we might go to Block Island, or Cuttyhunk, but the winds were forecast to be on the nose for at least one of the legs to and from either place. I am constitutionally hard wired to avoid headwinds whenever possible, which was why I had decided learning how to actually sail in protected waters would be more fun for both of us. It definitely was for me. One week earlier, I’d been bringing a 48-foot boat back from Bermuda with the 2016 class of people seeking offshore experience. Before leaving the dock, there’s always one who says they hope to experience some rough weather, to which I tend to reply: careful what you wish for. We had a downwind trip, but the southerlies also brought thunderstorms and mighty squalls, conditions that are anything but relaxing or idyllic. The skies lower, the waves are angry, the wind is just waiting to ruin your day. I was down below, pulled aside by one of the people aboard who was oblivious to the worsening conditions, saying he’d come to learn how to steer and wanted to do some more practicing, when a particularly ferocious squall hit. The helmsperson on watch, who actually knew how to steer

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7/26/16 2:12 PM

very well, was overwhelmed. The triple-reefed mainsail jibed against the preventer, the jib back-winded, everything below went flying across the cabin, the rail went under, the sea washed past the portholes, and the wind keened. We were in irons, unable to tack or come about in either direction. I had been starting to put on my foul weather gear when stalled by the thwarted helmsperson making his request, so I had to run up on deck unprotected. While furling the jib in driving, stinging rain, the wind gusted to nearly 50 knots, which was when druthers aboard changed. I was thoroughly soaked and shivering at the wheel, steering until the situation settled, looking at three relieved faces who declared fair weather preferable. Duh. Nothing good ever comes of rough weather, except for memories. At the end of this trip, when we’d gotten through the last night of more dramatic thunderstorms followed by a pea soup fog, and were making landfall in a cheery and much calmer dawn, the girl who’d been steering when the monster squall hit, the one who’d asked for something more challenging, said she’d never been so terrified in her life, and asked what had been my favorite part of the five days. Easy cheesy. I loved one dinner in particular—delicious frozen homemade chicken cutlets that had only required a defrosting and reheating, a rice pilaf, and a cabbage salad. Yum. Then, I asked her what everyone else had said. No exceptions, the best memory had been the squall. Ugh. We were lucky nothing broke, I said. I told this story to Gregory on Tuesday, while explaining why we were staying within the protected waters of Narragansett Bay for his three days aboard, and he remained unmoved. He still wanted big waves, the ocean, and I said he could come with me as fi rst mate on my next Bermuda run.

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Hopefully, he wouldn’t get seasick. But, on Thursday, we tacked out to sea for a couple of hours to round the bottom of Aquidneck, heeled over hard, pounding into moderate swells. Gregory started turning green at the same time he realized I may have had a point. Back on Tuesday, when he went back down below to resume reading, and I steered us up West Passage toward the Jamestown Bridge, beyond which lay our anchorage, I’d figured this would happen. But everyone has to learn for himself the value of an apparently boring sail. The afternoon sun beamed down on the boat heeled over on the sparkling flat waters as we screamed along at 6 knots, rail under in gusts. If the waves had been any bigger, a reef would have been necessary, but here, surrounded by the comforting bulk of protective land masses, I was as relaxed as I ever feel on a boat, tacking, pinching, perfecting sail trim, full of purpose in the moment. It was the kind of afternoon I dreamed about. No hankering whatsoever for the big bad sea, this was as good as it gets. For now. Gregory and me. Pure happiness.

Cruising Outpost 49 7/26/16 2:12 PM

50 Cruising Outpost

pg 44 Sailtime.indd 1

7/27/16 10:38 AM

Wo m e n W h o S a i l 2nd Annual Rendezvous

Sea of Cortez

B y Ju

l ie Thorndy craf t

A ddition a l p h otos b y A n n e Sek els k y , D ia n e B r odie, F r a n k ie G r a n t, J a n et D a r t, C a p ta in P a ts ee O b er , T r is h M a c k en z ie

reen ash ve een atchin for a reen ash orte this year and the rende vous ic ed off in at sunset since my fi rst sailin tri to mid A ril in La a a a alifornia ur. southern aters in 1 . ve seen as one of omen on charter The crew of S / V H aw aii hiki ng scores of ama in sunsets oats accom anied y a eet of s rin your o n on sailin tri s since ut not once have seen that oat rou ht y additional le endary ash. ntil the mem ers. ea of orte . t asn t is a ace oo rou a i s lashy event. he ith over 000 mem ers orld ide. he omen sun slo ly san into the hori on and at the last attendin this rende vous second there as a tiny came from anada and across the . . and their o of reen. reen ash sailin no led e ran ed from fi nally sa one t as the third day on the ea er ne ies to seasoned veterans ater durin the nd Annual omen ith 100 on licenses and thousands of miles of offshore e erience. ho ail ende vous. e ere on the ea of

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_pg 51-55 Women Who Sail.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 51

7/22/16 3:24 PM

Wo m e n W h o S a i l

Beach fire on Bahia Cazadero

The festivities started Saturday night in L a Paz with a wonderful dinner at Restaurant L a Costa, which graciously let 60-plus sailors take over their restaurant. With introductions all around, crew members got a chance to meet each other in the esh. y assi ned oat a L agoon 38 0 catamaran named A n y tim e, had a distinct advantage: seven of us were shipmates from the 1 st WWS Rendez vous in the BVI last year, including Captain Suky Cannon and First ate Anne e els y. Three of the seven are from innesota and this year we brought two additional innesota sailin friends to the mi on A n y tim e. After uttin the ne cre

52 Cruising Outpost

_pg 51-55 Women Who Sail.indd 2

through the req uisite haz ing - including threats of being tied to the mast - our crew was thoroughly vested. At 00 .m. unday omen conver ed on the arina osta a a doc s ith lu a e and provisions. Berths were assigned, food stowed and snorkeling gear selected, then off we went. We chartered every sailing boat in the Dream Yacht charter eet four catamarans and two monohulls). Our first anchora e as a short 8 nm away at aleta Lo os. he first night was set aside for time for crews to get to know their shi mates. As our armada s reunion

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7/22/16 3:24 PM

2nd Annual Rendezvous - Sea of Cortez

I sl a S an F rancisco – s econds e ore he reen a h

boat, A n y tim e’ s crew picked up right where we left off a year ago with much laughter and antics. Monday started a bit slow (perhaps due to too much fun the night before). While the WWS Rendez vous is not promoted as a “formal” teaching week, captains share knowledge with their crews and each crewmember takes part in all aspects of cruising including S wim m ing with anchoring and a sea l ion pu p at mooring, managing L os I sl otes sails, galley clean-up, manning helms and operating dinghies. As it turned out, uncooperative winds limited our pure sailing time, but it was a fun, instructive and satisfying time.

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_pg 51-55 Women Who Sail.indd 3

The day ended at Caleta Partida with an appetiz er potluck on the “mother ship,” a 44-foot cat skippered by Captain Holly Scott of Mahalo Sailing, the organiz er of this event. Getting 60 people onto one boat was coz y and certainly lowered the water line a few inches. Some ex cellent margaritas were consumed and the first of many lanned raf es occurred with amaz ing items donated, including a few subscriptions to Cruising Outpost. E ven the token spouses or si nificant others from the BYOBs seemed to enjoy themselves. In the WWS world, these gentlemen are referred to as

Cruising Outpost 53

7/22/16 3:25 PM

Wo m e n W h o S a i l

P icki ng ou t handc raf ted j ewel ry on I sl a C oy ote

P epe and h is wif e G recia with the start of the don ation pil e on S an E v aristo

B eau tif u l col ors al ong the way to S an E v aristo

C rew of S / V L et M e G o

54 Cruising Outpost

_pg 51-55 Women Who Sail.indd 4

DH: dear husband, deck hand, etc. You can use your imagination to come up with other meanings. During the week some of the BYOBs invited interested crew over to tour their boats and share their ex periences as liveaboard cruisers. The crew of S/V N a m a s te invited everyone for morning beach yoga and guided hikes at various locales. S/V D ue W es t announced on the Amigo Net (a SOC morning check-in network) they were sailing with the WWS group – t he response from the net was “Women Who Sail – a force to be reckoned with.” We all took that as a very positive compliment! S/V A n y tim e left early the nex t morning (Tuesday) to snorkel with the sea lions at L os Islotes. Some of us had the fortune to watch three young sea lions play with Captain Suky as she dove – it was a graceful dance as they all t isted and i ed around. t as also terrifyin hen they would come straight at you and then avert at the last second. While the sea lions were a highlight for the day, we also sa ama in fish sea turtles and hu e manta rays lea in from the water; an ex perience to cherish for this L ake Superior sailor! To cap it off, that evening I saw my green ash after arrivin at sla an rancisco. On Wednesday we headed to Isla Coyote to visit the small fishin villa e on the tiny roc island. e all showed our appreciation by buying jewelry made by the local women. Our day ended at Bahia Caz adero with a onderful each onfire com lete ith s mores. The nex t day we headed to the small town of San varisto here our first riority as findin ice. e found their ice making facility and loaded our coolers. n this little tiny to n five hours from any here the only restaurant Lu e ierra s a i ae made dinner for the otilla. rior to the tri everyone in our eet had athered items to donate to the to n. he ooty included children s oo s tooth rushes toys solar li hts and note oo s. ost tri a tain olly received a messa e from e e the son of Lu e and a i ae thanking us for all of the donations that went to the local children and fisherman. n re uest of restaurant o ner a i ae e ave them a ur ee hich they rom tly raised on their a ole. San E varisto was our turnaround point. The nex t morning we left early to make sure we had plenty of time to snorkel once more with the sea lions. On our way, dolphins swam off the bow and we again saw large rays doing multiple leaps in what we were told was a mating ritual. We had another amaz ing time swimming with

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7/22/16 3:25 PM

2nd Annual Rendezvous - Sea of Cortez

B Y O B crew: S / V P ab l o, N amaste, Du e W est, S oj ou rn, Ju p iter, G eorgi a, W ind c harmer moray eel. At artida our indlass hich had een the sea lions. ne u tried to ull a s im fin off a cre trou lesome all ee finally called it uits. mate and another layfully ni ed a he cre ulled the chain and anchor swimmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoulderâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; all in u y hand and then e headed ood fun. off for our final anchora e at We had our best sail of the ee Caleta L obos. to Isla Partida We returned to the marina the nex t morning on Saturday where the 2nd Annual morning with ende vous as a solid beam reach. n hailed a reat success. E ager sailors were already arrival we discussin here and hen dro ed anchor to hold the ne t rende vous. and snor eled around a small t as indeed a reat roc islet. sa three ee of adventures cultural immersion sailin and for in ne different ty es of starfish friendshi s. ot only that ot to see hundreds of ser eant ma ors P u rpl e tangs at my first reen f lash trum et fish small rays and a e ra L os I sl otes

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Cruising Outpost 55

7/22/16 3:26 PM

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Out There?

The Sun Odyssey line from J eanneau has been a favored design for cruisers since its inception. The Sun Odyssey 38 9 is a siz e that will serve couples and small families well for long-distance cruising as well as weekend gunkholing. The performance and ease-ofhandling also make this a good siz e. The performance hull was designed by Marc L ombard. It features a hard chine, and the keel design and deep rudder give the boat ex cellent speed and stability while on open waters.

56 Cruising Outpost

pg 56-57 Jeuaneau 389.indd 2

CRUISING MONOHULL

elo dec s you ll find comfort s ace and seaworthiness are the key. The galley has numerous storage compartments with a large fridge and saloon table. The wood interior mix es well with the stainless steel and light fabrics to provide a warm feeling. This boats was designed for comfort and safety, whether under sail, motor or at anchor. E verything on board the Sun Odyssey 38 9 shows this boat can be a true cruiser. So if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a well-found cruising boat, this could be it!

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7/25/16 12:41 PM

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 389

G etal lt he f ac ts : www.jeanneau.com JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 389 LOA 38’ 6” LWL 34’1” Draft (standard) 6’ 5” Beam 12’ 4” Power 29 hp SD Fuel 34 USG Fresh Water 53 USG Displacement 15,256 lbs. Holding Tank 23 USG WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 56-57 Jeuaneau 389.indd 3

Cruising Outpost 57

7/22/16 10:49 AM

What’s Out There?

Fountaine Pajot catamarans have earned the reputation of being true cruising catamarans, crossing the Atlantic more than 500 times plus doz ens of around-the-world voyages. The new Helia 44 E volution upholds this reputation. It provides great style and comfort, but seaworthiness is what sells this boat. Innovative living areas include a new lounge deck which gives direct access to the steering station. The large aft-deck area is perfect for socializ ing, and there is plenty of light and ventilation as well. Standard

58 Cruising Outpost

_pg 58-59 Helia 44 edited.indd 2

CRUISING CATAMARAN

ush mounted t in solar anels ee the atteries topped while under sail. Add to this more storage and an updated owner’s cabin and you can see why we call this a true cruising catamaran. And we haven’t even started to discuss the sailing characteristics that will make the new E volution a favorite for cruisers the world over. If you’d like to get more info on this vessel you can see much more on the Fountain Pajot website, where you will be able to see the other layout options as well.

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7/22/16 11:32 AM

Helia 44 Evolution

G etal lt he f ac ts : http://www.fountaine-pajot.com/

A v ia labl ei n thr ee- c abi n ( s how n) andf our - c abi n lay out)

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_pg 58-59 Helia 44 edited.indd 3

HELIA 44 EVOLUTION LOA 43.5’ Draft 3.8’ Beam 24.3’ Power 2 x 40 CV Diesel/hp Fuel 470 Ltr Fresh Water 2 X 375 Ltr Displacement 10.8 T Architect Berret Racoupeau Berths 6-10 Cruising Outpost 59

7/22/16 11:32 AM

What’s Out There?

Power cruising is becoming a lot more popular, partially due to the lower fuel prices. This design from Outer Reef features a 1 7 ’ 2” beam which has made a lot of “living room” above and below decks. The accommodations include a king berth master cabin amidships, a q ueen VIP cabin forward and a guest cabin. This makes plenty of room for the family and friends. The open main deck layout allows great allaround viewing from the pilothouse. The adjoining

60 Cruising Outpost

_pg 60-61 Outer Reef 580DF.indd 2

POWER CRUISER

galley includes full siz e appliances with large pantries, and there is a comfortable salon with covered aft deck for alfresco dining. But it doesn’t end there. Going below into the large and well fitted engine room will make the skipper smile. E verything is laid out for easy maintenance. A lot of thought has gone into the interior design of this vessel, and the 1 ,000 gallon fuel capacity will allow for long crossings that will open up new and ex citing territories to cruise!

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7/22/16 11:34 AM

Outer Reef 580

B ridge D eck

G etal lt he f ac ts : www.outerreefyachts.com U pper D eck

L ower D eck WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

_pg 60-61 Outer Reef 580DF.indd 3

OUTER REEF 580

LOA 57’ 5” Hull Length 53’ 5” Draft 4’ 10” Beam 17’ 2” Power Twin John Deere 6090 (500 HP) Fuel 1000 USG Fresh Water 300 USG Holding Tank 100 USG Displacement 69,000 lbs Cruising Outpost 61

7/22/16 11:34 AM

Beyond The Coast

62 Cruising Outpost

_Pg 62-67 Beyond The Coast-Edited.indd 2

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7/22/16 11:36 AM

H ow V entu r i ng I nl and W i l l E nr i c h Y ou r Cr u i si ng E x p er i enc e

B y Je ssie M acke l prang- C arter

Thirty miles off the coast of Mex ico, my husband, Neil, and I coasted into a watercolor sunset. Mother Nature painted the sky vibrant shades of pink and orange from horiz on to hori on colors efittin of alentine s ay. he ocean as on fire and our sails ere a la e with color as we cruised into Guatemalan waters. It was February 1 4, 201 5. ore than 00 nautical miles of acific cean had rushed eneath the hull of our Catalina Morgan 440, T h eR edT h r ea d, since we departed Seattle the prior autumn. We severed our dock lines with aspirations of swallowing all the majesty of the ocean we could possibly imbibeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; we wanted to sail, snorkel, dive, paddleboard, kayak and swim. In many ays e had e erienced much of hat e d ho ed. e had en oyed henomenal sailing under blue skies and watched meteors stretch across the heavens while at anchor. We had seen doz ens of spouts ex plode from the sea and witnessed humpbacks breaching. ol hins had danced in our o a e eneath te uila sunrises and e d lost count of the

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Cruising Outpost 63

7/22/16 11:37 AM

T eh M ont e A lbanr c he ologi c al s ite inSout he r nM ex ic o.

number of meals we had harvested from the sea. We’d also established new friendships, some we ex pect will continue to grow as we become old salts. Yet six m onths into what we had “planned” as a one-year cruising adventure to Australia, we began to q uestion whether cruising is about more than water. Something was missing; our ex perience felt incomplete. e had sailed the entire coast of acific e ico and our most immersive cultural ex periences had involved ridin u lic trans ortation in a atl n and eatin street tacos in La ru de uanaca tle. hat revelation eventually led us to discover that part of the magic in cruising lies beyond coastal ports. Seaside villages and S om e of the m ost el abor ate M ay an ru ins are at C opán , H ondu ras, where stru ctu res su ch as this enorm ou s head of a m an can be f ou nd.

64 Cruising Outpost _Pg 62-67 Beyond The Coast-Edited.indd 4

port cities are rich with interesting things to see, but are we cruisers truly ex periencing the heart of a nation if we only see it from the ater s ed e he more e s o e ith fellow cruisers, the more resolute our answer became: No. e didn t oin the acific uddle um as e had planned; the world’s largest ocean would be waiting to be sailed another season. Immersing ourselves in Central America became a priority for us. During the nex t four months e sailed 1 00 nautical miles ac and forth along the coast of Central America and completed four inland e cursions throu h five countries. hrou h our travels and the stories of cruising comrades we learned a few lessons about inland voyaging. I’ve integrated some of our ex periences with those of sailboats M er idia n and ‘ O h a n a to describe where and why venturing inland will enrich your cruising ex perience. G etting O f f the B oat Creates O p p ortu nities to Connec t w ith L oc al Cu l tu res E ach fall, a bright-eyed cohort of cruisers descends u on the acific oast of e ico and entral America. Some are well salted; others are cruising greenhorns. In each port seeds of friendship are planted, but within months many faces have ecome familiar. he acific cruising circuit is in full swing and many boats are on similar paths. It’s easy to slip into a routine of spending time with other cruisers almost ex clusively. Accordin to a e and anielle on the e ort 1 ‘O h a n a ruisers need to ar the oat at times to WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/22/16 11:37 AM

enjoy inland touring of the countries they visit, not just the port side bar during happy hour. Stepping out of the cruising circle gives you a chance to interact with the culture.” During a day trip from Puerto Chiapas in Southern Mex ico, they wiled away an afternoon with their daughters, Katelyn (age 1 2) and Hannah (age 7 ), learning to make chocolate near the Guatemalan border. They cracked cocoa beans, observed the roasting process, and helped mash beans in a local family’s backyard. Their eyes were opened to a process centuries old, but they also felt embraced as if they were family. Similar sentiments were echoed by the crew M er idia n , who befriended a local man and spent a day touring E l Salvador’s countryside and capital with him. Crew member Dominiq ue shared, “He taught us about his culture and showed us his country… and through that became a lifelong friend.” Inl and Travel Il l u minates the Diversity W ithin— N ot J u st B etw een— N ations Heinz , Margrit and Dominiq ue, crew of the Tayana 48, M er idia n , embarked upon several inland trips during the year they spent in Mex ico. Their most memorable ex cursion began in a marina in Maz atlá n and involved an overnight bus and a train to Copper Canyon in Northern Mex ico. They described impressive aerial views of the canyon as they raced down the world’s longest z ipline (8,3 50 feet!) and embraced an opportunity to interact with the Tarahumara community, indigenous people whose traditional ways of life have been largely preserved by their remoteness. Dominiq ue was inspired by the ex perience. “That particular road trip opened our eyes to differences in cultures between coastal and inland, even within the same country.” As M er idia n sailed south along the coast of Mex ico her crew enjoyed several more inland trips, including to Guadelajara. They took an eight-hour bus ride from Huatulco’s Marina Chahue to Oax aca, a city renowned for its culinary delights and colorful handicrafts. They also ex plored nearby Monte Alban and Mitla ruins, complex es that date to the pre-Columbian era. From Puerto Chiapas they traveled to San Cristó bal, where they swam in the waterfalls of Agua Az ul and visited ruins at Palenq ue. They also ventured into secluded villages such as San J uan Chamula, where photography is forbidden in the town’s church, and Z inacantá n, where women use centuries-old weaving methods. Dominiq ue was invited to don traditional clothing and to try her hand at operating a traditional loom, intimate moments inaccessible in an urban port. As for Neil and I, our most enlightening inland voyage began in E l Salvador. From Puerto Barillas we hopped a series of local buses and a shuttle to Antigua, a colonial city nestled in the Guatemalan central highlands. We spent three days captivated by the most WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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elaborate Semana Santa (Holy Week) festivities in Central America. We stood shoulder to shoulder with locals and tourists as thousands of worshippers cloaked in purple ro es marched the streets to reenact the final days of esus Christ’s life. Ornate offerings, called alfombras, lined the cobblestone streets like carpets. Comprised of colorful sand fruit o ers and dyed ood shavin s alfom ras represent a stunning fusion of indigenous tradition and Christian worship. I felt intense admiration for a people whose traditions have survived hundreds of years. We observed the rituals with inq uisitiveness, recogniz ing that complex r elationships between cultures and faiths are part of what makes Guatemala so colorful. From Antigua we shuttled to Honduras, where the Mayan ruins at Copá n took our imaginations far into the past, and a macaw preserve offered us a chance to interact with the nation’s national bird. After sailing into Nicaragua we docked at Marina Puesta del Sol and traveled by bus to L eó n and Granada. Travel time from the boat was less than half a day in either direction, but the opportunity to visit geographic and cultural landmarks (e.g., volcanoes, historical sites) made the ex perience far more interesting. Nicaragua’s cultural centers are not on the sea, as is the case with much of

J es ex c m ac ep r

s iec item aw c hn

noa t c ont ai nhe r ent a s t hr ees pe c ies of m ak ehe r ar m s t he ir ear C opán,H ondur as .

Cruising Outpost 65 7/22/16 11:37 AM

The S u n S tone, al so ref erred to as the A z tec cal endar , at the M u seo de A ntropol ogia in M exi co C ity .

H eadi ng to Tu rtl e B ay , M exi co, Je ssie hau l s in two bi g ey e tu nas! 66 Cruising Outpost _Pg 62-67 Beyond The Coast-Edited.indd 6

Central America. E x periencing the coast alone would not have offered us full avor of the nation. y travelin a fe hours inland and s endin several days off the oat our e erience in icara ua as chan ed radically for the better. E x c u rsions N eed N ot B e F ar F rom the Sea Althou h e en oyed several lon er tri s t o ex cursions were less than an hour from the coast. We en oyed a one day adventure near laya del oco the northernmost ort of entry in osta ica ith friends ho e in from the . . inds ere ro ected to e mild and our anchor as du firmly into the sandy sea oor. e released e tra chain and left our oat on the hoo for the day. A shuttle drove us to an area near incon de la ie a ar ue acional here e i lined rode a aterslide ooded ith mountain s rin ater went horseback riding, and relax ed at a hot spring. ur second day tri e an in ue os a charmin surf to n in central osta ica. e doc ed T h eR edT h r ea d at arina e ela and oarded a 0 minute us to anuel Antonio ar ue acional a lush tro ical sanctuary here a mena erie of mon ey s ecies s in throu h the cano y and lackadaisical sloths lounge amid the branches. In half a day e hi ed most of the trails in osta ica s smallest but liveliest national park, and returned to our boat charmed y the e otic eauty that has made the nation an ecotourism darling. E x c u rsions Don’t H ave to Drain the K itty t s unrealistic to ho e you ill save money y see in inland e eriences ut travel doesn t have to rea the an . omini ue from M er idia n stated, “I am a firm eliever that any inland e cursion is ossi le no matter the budget. You can make it as cheap or as e ensive as you ant. We left T h e R ed T h r ea d on a moorin in uerto arillas in l alvador for ust 1 er day. he facility s leadershi team res onded rom tly to emails concernin our oat s ell ein hich ena led us to rela more fully and en oy our time a ay. hile in icara ua e survived a t o day all inclusive hi in tri three hours from the Nicaraguan coast, during which we went “volcano oardin cam ed ato of olc n l oyo and s am in a crater la oon all for less than 0 er erson. There are Saf e P l ac es to Doc k Y ou r B oat A host of factors are continuously considered hile cruisin . eather finances cre needs and yachtin services all contri ute to decision ma in . here are numerous safe places for cruisers to leave their boats in the ea of orte and alon entral e ico and hile cruisers and yacht services ecome fe er and further et een the farther south you cruise e cellent facilities are available. In southern Mex ico, the crews of M er idia n and ‘ O h a n a doc ed their oats in the safe ee in of uerto WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/22/16 11:37 AM

Chiapas. In Central America, M er idia n was secured to a mooring in Bahia del Sol, E l Salvador, as was T h e R ed T h r ea d in Puerto Barillas. The only marina along acific icara ua uesta del ol arina has sturdy doc s an infinity ool and ood rates that ma e it a brilliant launch point for inland ex ploration. Facilities in osta ica e. . arina a a ayo arina e Vela), while more ex pensive, are state of the art with robust security that allows cruisers’ minds to rest easy while away. G etting A w ay f rom the B oat is E nric hing and R eenerg iz ing L ong-range voyaging is many wondrous things, but a vacation it is not. here are difficult decisions to ma e complicated systems to maintain, and inherent risks to e miti ated. ravelin inland eil and left everyday stresses of cruising with the boat and savored days in which to-dos were too far away to demand our attention. Inland ex ploration recharged our batteries when we were feeling ex hausted by the rigmarole of unex pected repairs and a faster than ty ical race from the acific orth est. I remember standing at the summit of Volcá n E l Hoyo and starin south ard here olc n omotom o to ered li e a uardian a ove La o icara ua. y eyes stretched est to the ha y lue of the ocean. felt overcome ith ratitude. eein the acific from a different vanta e point was invigorating. E ach time we returned to our home sweet boat, the colors of the sea seemed to have grown brighter and more alive, a phenomenon we attribute to the time we’d taken to ex plore beyond the coastal ports. Cruisers’ reasons for inland voyaging are as uniq ue as their motivations for cruisin in the first lace. he crew of M er idia n travels inland to, “ex perience different cultures by trying traditional food and drink, visiting historical sites, ex ploring nature’s miracles, and visiting with the native people.” Danielle and J ake, ‘ O h a n a , anted to e erience e ico eyond the aterfront tourist culture and traveling inland afforded their daughters educational opportunities that bring history to life in ways a tex tbook cannot. After all, their girls haven t ust studied or loo ed at hotos of ayan ruins they have climbed them! As for the crew of T h eR edT h r ea d, our hope of travelin inland to find the intan i le somethin that as missin in our voya e as fulfilled. ur voya e morphed from a beautiful but unidimensional ex perience on the sea to one that integrated the complex c ultural, historical, and geographic elements of the countries we were visiting. We were ex periencing the nations rather than simply seeing them. undreds of cruisers visit the shores of e ico each season; far fewer comb the coast of Central America. How many venture inland along the way? Will you? WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

_Pg 62-67 Beyond The Coast-Edited.indd 7

The R ed Thread rests peacef u l l y tethered t o a m ooring in P u erto B aril l as, E l S al v ador .

P assage f rom E nsenada t o Tu rtl e B ay , M exi co, w as nothing bu t bl u e ski es and gl oriou s sail ing. P hoto cou rtesy of Jou rney , S / V N amaste. Cruising Outpost 67 7/22/16 11:38 AM

THERE ARE TWO SIDES TO EVERY STORY.... A DOCK-HANDS WISH LIST

A Skippers Wish List

H O N E STY - When you call to reserve a spot, please be honest about the total length of your vessel – this includes bow pulpits, large anchors, dinghy davits and wind generators.

H O N E STY - Please honestly provide information about approach depths and clear and detailed information about my slip assignment.

“It’s a Model 3205 – that’s 32 feet, right?”

“How can you be aground? It’s not even low tide!”

P R E P AR ATIO N - When you throw me a dock line,

P R E P AR ATIO N - Please indicate clearly when you are ready to receive my lines . . . please pay attention. When my crew throws you a dock line, do something more with it than just catching it – secure it to a cleat or piling.

please make sure it has been made fast to something on your boat – preferably a cleat. When you throw me a dock line, please aim for my outstretched arm, not my face. When I ask your deckhands to wait before heaving their dock lines, please support my req uest.

“Well OK. . .What is it you want me to do with that?”

68 Cruising Outpost

_pg 68-69 A Dockmasters Wish List.indd 2

“I say. . . You might want to put that line around a cleat . . .”

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....AND BOTH SIDES ARE KINDA FUNNY! S tory & A rt by

A DOCK-HANDS WISH LIST

U N DE R STAN DIN G AN D CO M M U N ICATIO N Please realiz e that your boat is still moving when you throw me a line. Please do not shut down your engine(s) until your boat is securely tied to the dock. Please do not expe ct the dock hand (me) to stop your vessel’s forward (backward) momentum.

“What d’ya mean, you shut the engine down?” R E SP E CT - Please do not yell at me. If you have a s ecific lan for your doc in maneuvers lease ee me informed – please do not yell at me when I cannot read your mind.

“ on’t touch my boat. I’ve got this! I’ve got thrusters!”

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_pg 68-69 A Dockmasters Wish List.indd 3

C hery l Thom as

A Skippers Wish List

U N DE R STAN DIN G AN D CO M M U N ICATIO N Please realiz e that my boat is still moving when I throw you a line. Be aware that where, and how tightly you secure that line, will affect my boat’s movement and orientation. I know my boat and I have a plan. If I ask you for s ecific assistance lease follo my instruction.

“You might want to ease off on that bow line!” R E SP E CT - Please treat me, my boat and my travel plans with respect. I’ve made a reservation to stay at your marina – I ex pect to dock in a slip where I can feel secure, at peace and free to come and go as I please.

“Yes, I moved you bac into the lift pit from your reserved slip to ma e room for the big sport sh that came in without a reservation. You’ll have to wait till he leaves before you can depart . .. sorry.”

Cruising Outpost 69

7/22/16 11:41 AM

B y R ichard F ritz of B etsy squ eez ing Wh irl w ind throu gh F ace C any on, L ake P owel l , A Z

70 Cruising Outpost _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 2

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7/22/16 11:52 AM

L i fe s t y l e A Look at Why We Do What we Do

E v er wonde red why peopl e l ov e the boat ing l if esty l e? Wel l , here in the L if esty l e section f ol ks f rom al l ov er the worl d giv e an insight into what it’ s real l y l ike ou t there. I f y ou hav e a photo y ou think tel l s a good tal e, why not send it to u s? We pref er y ou send a di gital pic, in as high resol u tion as y ou can. Tel l u s who took the pic and where it was take n. We wil l probaby throw it into ou r “di gital pil e” and pu l l it ou t som eday . We won’ t send y ou any m oney , bu t y ou wil l be f am ou s worl dw ide ! E m ail to: L if esty l e@ C ru isingou tpost.c om .

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_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 3

Cruising Outpost 71

7/22/16 11:53 AM

B y G ary P eterson, M exi co

B y H eather S hine, S / V Cerrid w en, B enicia, C A

72 Cruising Outpost _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 4

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B y aJ m ie A l y ssa B rown, V is, C roatia B y G reg Z schaechner, sail ing f rom D om inica to S t. M aartin

2016

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_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 5

B y S tev e S hapiro, the be ginning of the E nsenada R egatta of f N ewport B each

Cruising Outpost 73 7/22/16 11:53 AM

B y I an D av ies

B y N ate K raf t, P acif ic C oast of M exi co

B y R ob O be rg, take n f rom S / V Al c heringa on the isl and of I bi z a

B y E d Try gar on S / V R ej oyc e2

74 Cruising Outpost _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 6

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7/22/16 11:54 AM

B y M ik e of S arah and K ristina on his G rand B anks

B y H enry M cK ev itt, G u l f of M exi co

Tay l or S wif t sail ing on the K ennedy

B y E d C arl son of Je ssie on her f irst sail

y acht

D ianna P eercy , L ake E rie

B y D av id M il l er, of f the coast of B el iz e

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Artificial intelligence is no match or natural stu idity _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 7

Cruising Outpost 75 7/22/16 11:54 AM

B Y iJ m of F aith, f l oating in the C ol u m ib a R iv er, P ortl and, O regon

B y Je rem y Whitake r B y B ob,

of f of Tibe ron, H aiti

B ongo B ob cooki ng steak f or br eakf ast j u st of f of West C aicos

B y C aptain Joe of l iv eaboar d sail ors in Toronto, O ntario, C anada

76 Cruising Outpost _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 8

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7/22/16 11:54 AM

B y R oger M artinson of D iane sail ing in B el l ingham , WA

B y R ichard F eb f ore swim m a 4â&#x20AC;&#x2122; - l ong di am the m iddl e of

B y D av e D ay H ol com be & getting ready at M arina de l oosing u p..

of Je nnif er M ercede s f or a sail l R ey , j u st

ritz , the reason we l ook ing in A riz ona. This was ondbac k rattl esnake in L ake P l easant!

B y C arol A nn F aith, B l oody

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_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 9

M ary â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s, B ora B ora

Cruising Outpost 77 7/22/16 11:55 AM

D ennis F rake s of C indy

B y R ic B isch of d au ghter R achael u p the m ast in S t Joh n, U S V I

X er ox a n d W ur litz er w ill m er g e to p r oduc e r ep r oduc tiv e or g a n s .

B y M ichael M orse of S u san in E m erl ad B ay , C atal ina, whil e cru ising the C hannel I sl ands

B y Tim othy in the S an Ju an I sl ands of Washington S tate at S u cia I sl ands S tate P ark, E cho B ay , aboar d their hom e f or the l ast two y ears, a P assport 41

B y M ike , L ake N ottl ey , G A

B y B ru ce K acske m ety on the hook in C abi n B ay at N ake d I sl and in P rince Wil l iam S ou nd, A l aska, with f irst m ate P ol l ee who is f ou r y ears ol d

78 Cruising Outpost _pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 10

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7/22/16 11:55 AM

B y M ichael A . Wil l iam s, Wawa, L u z on, P hil l ippines

B y R on & aJ n ie M orton at the S oggy D ol l ar B ar, Jos t V an D y ke

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_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 11

B y B rent & Jan et S chu l z e, C atal ina I sl and

Cruising Outpost 79 7/22/16 11:55 AM

B y R . H ol im an of M ichel l e in the E xu

m as

B y M ark Wareham , cru ising in N ewf ou ndl and

O l iv ia F rank,

Tobag o C ay s

B y K am i of G ary rel axi ng in C osta R ica

B y L esl ie West, B V I s

B y C hu ck L ennox of F reedom

44 in bl oom

B y P eter R u dl

80 Cruising Outpost

_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 12

esdi n, P ort- D al hou sie WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/22/16 11:58 AM

B y oJ h n S im pson, F irth of C l y ed du ring a cool A pril

B y K en C row of B ob & K athy sail ing on the N orth F ork of the S aint L u cie R iv er, F L .

I at first you don t succeed, skydiving is not or you!

B y M ark R ooz edaal of D eanna on the be ach at I sl a C oronodas , S ea of C ortez , M exi co

B y D av e B irke n, the I sthm u s at C atal ina I sl and WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

_pg 70-81 Lifestyle.indd 13

Cruising Outpost 81

7/22/16 11:58 AM

Cr uising Ou t pos tʻs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

S/V Adia “Ali Did It Again!” B y P hil & A l i L iv ers U nde rway P hotos by B il l y B l ack

82 Cruising Outpost

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7/27/16 4:08 PM

We have both always loved the water, enjoying being in it, around it, and are drawn to it. I was fortunate to spend my really early years in the Virginia Beach area and then spent my high school/college years living near Kentucky L ake. Phil grew up in that area and we both waterskied and boated whenever we could.

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Cruising Outpost 83

7/27/16 4:08 PM

S/V Adia

“Ali Did It Again!” While living in Tex as we bought a used 41 ’ Mainship and enjoyed life at the lake most weekends. We also went to various islands in the Caribbean every chance we got and many times rented powerboats to snorkel, scuba and ex plore surrounding islands – and of course the beach bars. We were power boaters and thought sailboaters were people that liked primitive camping. In the mid 2000s we started attending the Miami and Fort L auderdale Boat Shows – mostly to hang out near the water and enjoy the boating lifestyle. We looked at new 45- to 55foot power boats and wondered if we could one day take the leap and get a new boat, with the goal of doing the Great L oop and near-coastal cruising. Around that time, Phil came across a blog, “Bumfuz z le,” about a couple in their 20s that had no sailing ex perience, but bought a used sailboat and took off around the world. e ot me to read it and fi ured ould never think about doing something like that – and he was right. That is when we came across three game changers – Pam Wall, Bob Bitchin and the Royal Cape Catamaran. Pam and Bob were speakers at the boat show seminars we were attending (we had added Annapolis and Newport to our annual boat show circuit). Pam engaged you in stories about raising her kids with her Aussie husband while they circumnavigated. Bob challenged you to either “dream your life or live your dream” – a saying that I wrote on my white board at work. I still thought more like a power boater and knew I didn’t want to sail the oceans on a monohull, leaning sideways and strapping everything down. On one of our island trips with family, we chartered a catamaran with a captain, cruised the Grenadines – a nd loved it. The Royal Cape Catamaran (RCC) caught our eye at the Miami Boat Show, with the very spacious accommodations and the sturdy, safe feeling of the boat. We struck up a conversation with the owners of RCC, Ken and Sue Bircher, and the boat builder, J ames Felgate, and continued to stay in contact via email along with seeing each other at the Miami Show each year.

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Cr uising Ou t pos tʻs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

While we looked at all of the other catamarans, we just kept coming back to the RCC, the custom nature of the boat, and the personal nature of Ken, Sue and J ames. We continued the conversations and ordered our own 53’ Royal Cape – A dia . Their approach in designing and building the boat is to provide as much customiz ation as possible, while maintaining the safety, integrity and performance of the boat.

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t starts ith ca in layout si five four or less. Do you want a study? How about a workshop? Or a walk-in pantry? While you need to make several of the bigger decisions, like cabin layout, soon after you place the order, the new owners typically make a trip to South Africa about halfway through the build to finali e colors schemes and other items. We actually designed the island layout of our alley a first for the uilder and finali ed the lan hile e ere there. ther decisions and modifications

Cruising Outpost 85

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S/V Adia

we accomplished via Skype video and photos from J ames throughout the build. In addition to selecting all of our interior items (dishes, cutlery, pots/ pans, sheets, duvets, throw pillows – you name it – i t all comes included!), our second trip to South Africa also included some great site-seeing with our favorite tour guides, Ken and Sue. This time around we went z ip-lining and hiking in another beautiful area of South Africa. The Majestic 530 is a must-see for anyone considering a q uality and lux urious offshore catamaran 50’ 60’ that can be sailed without a crew. She is a development of Van de Stadt design which is highly regarded for its stability, performance, comfort and ocean friendly hulls. The fuller hulls allow for interior volume and amenities that far ex ceed any found on catamarans in her siz e range. The enhanced ada tation is certified making this catamaran even more attractive, spacious and versatile. Sailing is made easy with all lines leading back to the helm. E lectric winches, furlers, and an optional L eisure Furl in-boom sail handling

86 Cruising Outpost

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“Ali Did It Again!”

system make sailing safe and easy for those wishing to sail without crew. Mast heights are available for those wishing to pass under bridges on the ICW. We opted to put the L eisure Furl in-boom furling on our boat, which was also a first for . Althou h they hadn t installed one, J ames and team worked with Allen Massey and the wonderful folks from L eisure Furl to work out all of the specs and adjustments that would need to be made. The cockpit of the boat provides a large, protected outdoor living area which can be enclosed with the side curtains. It is entirely covered by a hardtop that provides protection from inclement weather as well as shade from the hot tropical sun. The cockpit features a large chest freez er, ice maker, and drink fridge. A washer/ dryer is also conveniently located in the cockpit. With all of these features as well as seating for over 1 2 people, you have a cockpit ready to provide hours of entertainment and enjoyment for owners and guests. The barbecue (aka a “braii” in South Africa) and adjacent area add a beautiful and functional element

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Cr uising Ou t pos tĘťs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

to the aft outdoor living space. The dive compressor and multi-functional dinghy lift/swim-dive platform make diving and swimming easy and safe from the boat. The forward deck and trampolines provide another great area to entertain and enjoy being outside. Inside, a beautifully eq uipped salon provides all of the features, comfort and space one would ex pect in a lux ury catamaran. Cook top, oven, freez er, refrigerator, microwave, dining table, settee,

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dishwasher, TV, and a Fusion multimedia entertainment system all await owners and guests. Owners wishing for a private space ill find the hu e master ca in ith a king siz e bed, hanging lockers, cabinet and drawers, DVD and TV, large walkin shower with a separate vanity and toilet area a delight. The owners cabin features a large private study with desk and settee for those wishing for a place to work or just get away from all of the activities onboard.

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S/V Adia

Folds Easily

Free Estimates 1.800.482.6956

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Guests wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be disappointed with their accommodations either. All cabins have large beds and their own shower with separate vanity and toilet areas. E ach cabin has its own TV and DVD entertainment system. With twin 8 0HP Yanmar engines and fuel capacity in ex cess of 300 gallons, when the wind dies the Majestic 530 can easily travel at around eight knots on engines and cover distances in ex cess of 2000 miles without refueling. To power all of the amenities onboard there is a 1 2KW generator, eight solar panels, shore power, and isolation transformer. The shore power is confi ured in such a ay that travel between countries with different power freq uencies will never be a problem as everything onboard will function normally. Power management while on anchor or mooring is easy too. E verything is handled by an ex ceptionally large battery bank with a robust battery management system. All L E D lighting throughout the boat will make sure no one is left in the dark. As far as being power boaters or sailers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; w e are probably somewhere in between. We took sailing lessons and also participated in part of the delivery from South Africa to the U.S., including doing our own shifts overnight. We have sailed from South Florida to Annapolis twice and around the E ast Coast and the ability for two somewhat new sailers to be able to handle the Royal Cape has iven us the confidence to venture out further in the near future. Those of you who have been doing this a lot longer than we have know about the beauty of stars and sky at night when there are no lights around

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cr uising Ou t pos tĘťs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

to diminish the majesty. You also know about the beauty of the sunsets and the million colors of the sunrise, as well as the thrill of watching dolphins play at the bow and the calming serenity of the waves and the wind. When asked what I like most about our boat, I q uickly and sincerely tell people that it is feeling completely safe sailing without being able to see the land. Of course, the convection oven, dish asher asher dryer and at screen TVs arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bad either!

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S/V Adia LOA: 53 feet (16.1m) LW: 52.1 feet (15.9m) Beam: 28.7 feet (8.75m) Draft: 3.9 feet (1.2m) Power: T win 80HP Diesel Fuel Capacity: 320 gal. Water Capacity: 325 gal.

Cruising Outpost 89

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Cruising Outpost 91 7/22/16 12:09 PM

Did I Do That?

We all mess up at least once, and most of us a lot more than that. Here are some anecdotes from folks who not only have made a few mistakes, but actually fess up to them. Got a story of your own? Why not send it to us!? These folks did!

First and Foremost... A Sense of Humor! or, It Seemed Easier when We were Younger Choosing the right mate can make or break your life. How do I know that? I’ve been married over four decades, I’m a practicing psychotherapist for 36 years, and I know what I’m talking about. Here are my observations I tell every woman I know: Pick a mate with a humorous disposition and you’ll be blessed, whatever the fates allow. But pick a mate without a sense of humor and you’ll pray daily for a sudden death by lightning, sailing in the middle of L ake Mille L acs, MN, or Barnegat Bay, NJ . I picked a humorous mate. My husband and I met while riding together in a crowded elevator. Being in our early 20s we immediately fell under the spell of hormones. Without hesitation I seiz ed his manly hands and blurted out, “Wow, you have really cold hands!” (You see, I’m a great believer in breaking every rule of elevator propriety: be silent, stare straight ahead and keep your hands to yourself. hat very afternoon leanin on the office coffee machine, he smiled a sex y grin and told me he thought I was fast. Ha ha on him!

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Sometime after the elevator and coffee machine irtations e drove to the ersey shore for a day of sailin . That breez y, glorious afternoon was the start of a great day with my date, Dick. After sailing several beautiful hours on the open bay, we docked and headed to the Surf City Hotel bar. Herb Alpert and The Tijuana Brass’ “This Guy’s in L ove with You” was playing on the jukebox a nd Dick joined Herb “karaoke style” while singing to me. After much enthusiastic applause from the i o and ase all ca wearing sailing crowd, I smiled to myself and thought, “he’s really cute, but does this man’s charming side q ualify him for a place on the Potential Husband L ist?” Four years and two kids later, hearing Dick sing “the wheels on the bus go round and round” became my aphrodisiac. Yes, my old boyfriend turned husband turned father was not only cute, he was clever, encouraging me nightly to keep nursing our infant because, “mother’s milk is so good for a baby!” Yea, yea I would nod and smile as he fell back to sleep.

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But is it enough to sustain a marriage when a man is a hoot or clever or looks like Matthew McConaughey? Maybe yes, maybe no, but humor sure helps when a couple encounters rough tides with those typical struggles most relationships deal with sooner or later. Sudden sq ualls don’t only occur in open water, they surface in marriages... all marriages. When our own power and control issues rocked our little dinghy we sailed away from our safe harbor right into a counselor s office. t as a ood decision. hy let our marriage topple over into a knockdown? Weren’t we better sailors than that? After the third session reali ed e d chosen a tain Calamity for a skipper - a counselor who knew jack about rough currents in a marriage of two strong eq uals. hat s hen shot my hus and the eye then ushed the landlu er thera ist over oard. oc e re cuttin this last session short. As motioned my head to ard the door my hus and and stood u and e ited. hat spontaneous gesture was like CPR to a drowning man – my husband’s humor returned before we even reached our parked car. are onderful e ecutive decision didn t ant to o to counselin in the first lace and didn t li e octor c lueless in the second lace. esides you re my favorite thera ist. here as that se y rin a ain and

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ith that smile an out ourin of loo in ac re ections. ary ane remem er hen e ere datin Now he had my attention. o e used to lay more o m really ayin attention. o e loved sailin sa here this reverie as oin . emem er uyin that ailfish sail oat hen the ids ere little hat remem ered and as smart enou h to ee to myself as him almost slicin his fin er off hile cutting a cork to plug some hole somewhere and his blood s illin all over the sail n the enthusiastic voice of a ne ly ed he literally shouted are hat do you say e uy another sail oat omethin i er and ashier li e an ay 0 ouldn t that e a esome fun A week later we were back sailing on the tranq uil ersey ay li e the days of yore. ein surrounded y swooping gulls and brilliant sunshine in a nice, clean, ay 0 on a erfectly fa ulous uly day ave me a splendid opportunity to practice the dreaded sport men hate and omen love tal in a out our feelin s and our relationshi . ut uys hat man ouldn t choose sailin under a gorgeous open sky with tuna salad on a Kaiser roll and a cold si ac no matter hat the conversation

Cruising Outpost 93 7/26/16 1:57 PM

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was, versus being trapped in a closed car with a wife and her “this is what you didn’t do right” agenda? Have I not found a universal man secret here? And, as we women are occasionally inclined to do, I took advantage of the situation and threw my handsome skipper a compliment about what a tremendous sailor he was. How he was right up there with the Irish navigator, St. Brendan, patron saint of boatmen, mariners and whales! These seductive sentiments barely splashed off my ton ue hen a fierce ust from no here hi ed u causing the bay to whitecap wildly. Because my husband wanted to immediately lower the sails before we swamped, I sprung into action and grabbed the tiller - how hard could that little job be? “Mary J ane!” my husband’s voice shouted out over what were becoming gale-force gusts, “Point the boat into the eye of the wind!” Huh? L ike the French L ieutenant’s Woman, I stared straight ahead searching frantically for some “craz y eye” blowing in the wind. Again he shouted, “E ye of the wind!” I stood froz en, paralyz ed, like a woman in shock knowing she was about to die. That was not the response my husband was hoping for. Before my eyes, Dick had mysteriously morphed into Raymond, the savant brother of Charlie from the movie Rain Man - “Into the wind, into the wind, into the wind.” Now Dick’s voice constricted and he sounded shrill as he yelled to his lame crew, me, “Mary J ane, I can’t lower the sails unless the boat’s pointed into the eye of the wind!” But what I needed him to tell me was how to actually point the vessel because I couldn’t see the wind, so how the hell could he? Besides, turning a little wooden stick in the direction I wanted that dumbass sailboat to go didn’t work because pushing the tiller right, the boat went left; pushing the tiller left, the boat went right. It made absolutely no sense. “Mary J ane, are you listening to me?!!” he roared. L ike a circus act, our boat went around and around in a circle ith our sails and mouths a in li e a ressive anadian geese. That’s when I looked up and realiz ed we were being observed from a nearby dock like dolphins had just been spotted, the free entertainment de jour. And that’s when my

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husband yelled loud enough to have been heard in Atlantic City, “Are you doing this just to tick me off?” I snapped out of my coma with that outrageous accusation and glared at him. My jaw clenched and I let my ra e y. ou or the tiller and ll or those lan ety lan alley hay ay sails E ventually we docked and walked in silence to a welcoming local pub. After two icy Buds and a bowl of peanuts, we smiled at each other, then started laughing at our re ressed ehavior. on t orry aymond said ou re still the funniest and cutest man no . And you can e sure e ll do a etter o ne t time ith the Sloop J oh n B ecause no e ve learned you re a tiller man and m a sail irl. We clinked our mugs. I batted my eyes. I grabbed his manly hands all over again.

Cruising Outpost 95 7/26/16 1:58 PM

Am I A Sailor?? By Monica Grant

I used to think sailing was only for some; that sailors were a breed of people born with wind in their sails and a degree of daring and physical prowess balanced perfectly with a cast iron stomach; everything I’m not. Don’t get me wrong, I have been on boats before: 1 0-foot aluminum dinghies, J -24 sailboats, a 30-foot cabin cruiser, but I’ve never been good at it. I get seasick. I’ve even been sick on a 200-passenger ferry on calm water.

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When I met my husband, J ay, I had no idea he was a sailor. At the time he was a long-haired biker who loved spending his days cruising country roads on his Harley-Davidson, which suited me ust fine. oo late the truth came out and reali ed would need to become a sailor or become a single. J ay had been yearning for the sea and for some reason, which I still don’t fully understand, I encouraged him. I’d ‘ ooo’ and ‘ ahhh’ over boats on the internet and in

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ma a ines read e ui ment lists and discuss s ecifics of hull sha es len ths and layouts. even ent alon to loo at a fe and offer intelli ent comments a out the merits or ro lems of each one. t too many years ut eventually he found the oat he d een loo in for and our future as decided. hen it hit me. o could ossi ly have a reed to uyin a oat and oin to sea erience had lon a o convinced me that sailin as one of those thin s ould never e a le to en oy ust as some eo le are una le to en oy coffee or chocolate or a ood red ine. hou h loved the ocean and the feel of salt ater on my s in and as a ed y the o er of tur ulent seas as a land lover a erson ho li ed the security of solid round and lac ed the confidence and stomach for oatin . e ardless had often fantasi ed a out ocean sailin . he idea filled me ith romantic visions of late afternoon s ies a ash ith shades of ochre and dus y lues erha s a lass of ine in hand olives and cheese alon side ein seduced y the su tle mysteries of the ently undulatin ater. erha s these ere the ima es that tric ed me into encoura in ay in his almost daily search for a oat a oat hich ould ecome our home on the ater. e ou ht a 1 ayana cutter. ur lan as to ta e our five year old olden retriever ira and sail a ay. e ould or as e needed hile cruisin and livin a oard. had 10 days to et used to small s aces and constant movement hile e rovisioned and made a fe minor re airs. After only four days thou ht had learned enou h to fill a small manual. e ere still tied to the doc .

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A ee later on a calm sunny mid ay afternoon e untied our lines motored out of ey iscayne and set sail for Anna olis . y first voya e as under ay and as full of confidence and enthusiasm. hat lasted a out an hour and a half after hich as vomitin over the side. should have seen this as an omen as over the ne t si days and ni hts learned that the reality of sailin at sea is as remote from my fantasy as fish are from the desert. f you had as ed me to descri e an ocean voya e efore ay ould have een i ant. ome ind small foam ti ed aves on dar rey lue seas and erha s some rain. didn t no sailin could involve so much contrast in one voya e. ur assa e as s rin led ith a taste of almost every condition. in e tune as ivin me the eader s i est introduction to cruisin . e e erienced stron inds under cloudless s ies comforta le coastin on the ac of the ulf tream still ni hts on hich e ere luc y if e sailed at one not uncomforta le s ells and as the innacle of my initiation a testin overni ht storm off a e atteras a lace have since heard called the raveyard of the sea. ver t o evenin s e had atched li htnin dance on the hori on heat li htnin e decided. ithout a radar e ere o livious to any recent re orts ut e vie ed the distant eather as non threatenin . n the third evenin e ere roven ron . As dar ness descended so did the storm. Li htnin ashed to the north and to the east. Land lay far a ay to the est. ature s net as cast and e ere cau ht in the middle. ortunately my seasic ness

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Flotsam & Jetsam had subsided, but I still hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ventured below for more than the necessary comfort visits to the head, and when ay su ested o elo must have loo ed horrified. r may e not he added. I stayed in the cockpit wedged in and holding on, my eyes glued to the small dark patch of water visible in the light e cast. A art from as in ay if he had ever een in such a storm s o e very little. is assurance that he had een in worse gave me some comfort, but I reached out and placed one hand on our are it ust in case. As e itched and rolled loo ed into the churning blackness and wondered what I would do if I went over oard. escue scenes drifted through my mind and songs began to o into my head. t started ith lit n s i onths in a Lea y oat a humorous reprieve from my fears, but when I recogniz ed the beginning of ordon Li htfoot s he rec of the E dmund Fitz gerald,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; I almost laughed hysterically. o days earlier ay and I had been singing the theme song from one of our favorite childhood sho s illi an s sland. e s ent an entire afternoon trying to perfect the lyrics. hat as it ith son s a out boat wrecks? At some oint ay said e ould heave to so e could et some rest. immediately pictured a crew of pirates heaving heavy lines a oard an old ooden shi . soon learned the truth and with our boat locked into position we set about going below to try et some slee . irst e had to et ira elo . he was unwilling to move from her familiar space in the well of the cockpit, so we manhandled her 7 0 pounds down the com anion ay. on landin in the alley she du her cla s into the tea . o ether ay and ic ed her u and attem ted to ush her into the aft ca in. have never seen a do ar herself from enterin a door ay. All four a s ere laced firmly on the outside of the door frame. t as comical li e a scene in a coo y oo cartoon. e un ed ed her one le at time, and with a little help from the waves we all fell onto the un ira sand iched neatly in the middle.

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or the ne t several hours itted in and out of slee . y a eful times ere s ent chec in our osition on the on my hone than you technolo y and listenin to the ater crashin a ainst the hull and over the dec . I hoped J ay was right about the seaworthiness of our crea in roanin year old oat. y ima ination had a reat time as ictured myself in one of those films in which a boat, engulfed by an overnight storm in once scene ould rea ear the ne t mornin on a at ocean under a glorious sunrise, the cre alive and ha y. A ain as roven ron . did a e u the ne t morning and we were all alive, ut the storm had not finished ith us yet. ur oat had stayed put, but our attempts to set sail and re ain our course at first li ht ere ointless. everal hours and another heave-to later, the storm finally assed. hrou hout the afternoon the wind continued to drop, the sea abated, and by nightfall we were at a standstill under a breathless sky on an almost stationary sea. s ent my watch scanning the dark horiz on for signs that we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, in fact, oin ac ards. hus e an a eaceful le of our ourney. had survived a storm confronted many fears and to a lar e e tent overcome seasic ness. All that as left as to rela and discover the onders of sailin at ni ht. hen you re not fi htin the ocean you are free free to watch and listen, to imagine the mysteries and the stories she could tell. ittin alone on that starless ni ht en oyed the s ectacle of the ioluminescent articles dancin on the tiny crested aves. also learned that sounds can e deceivin . On both sides of me I heard what sounded like dol hins or hales lidin alon side their e haled reaths uncturin the silence. could hardly contain my e citement as ho ed from ort to star oard

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searching the water for anything that moved. Our chart plotter and compass lights hampered my search so dimmed them fi nally thro in a ra over them to increase the chances of spotting my night-time friends. I held my breath and watched, waited... Slowly my infant sailing brain caught up and I realiz ed I had been listening to the sounds of our own passage across the calm water. I think a note should be made in Neptune’s “Sailing Manual for Beginners” to save other novices from making that embarrassing mistake. Visions are another focus of the night-watch imagination. In the dark, every part of our boat took on a new life. Silhouettes of people, or creatures of grotesq ue form were shaped out of winches, dodger frames, coiled ropes and hats. I had to look hard to recogniz e what they actually were. Outside the boat was an entirely different view. Keeping a watchful eye on the horiz on both before and aft was tiring, and I often found my idle mind creating architecture out of the dark nothingness. Buildings and castles rose from the sea like island fortresses, their solid walls interspersed with occasional windows. Perhaps that was not imagination, but the subtle onset of sleep. Daylight held different wonders, and one of the most memora le visions of that first assa e as the color of the ocean. I struggle to describe the shade of sky-blue aq ua which held my gaz e every day. E ven being sick into the ocean as re eatedly as durin the first t o days didn t diminish my fascination with this view of the Atlantic. Seasickness actually became a pleasure as I leaned over the side to be greeted by the color of serenity.

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Flotsam & Jetsam However, despite my admiration for the vivid water e ere sailin in it as a relief hen the nausea finally subsided and I was granted the ability to move about on deck and a little below. The simple chore of tidying the galley became a source of great satisfaction. This change also hel ed my confidence as e an to share in some of the ordinary tasks of sailing and began to learn how to live at sea. I learned about gimballed stoves and how to hold on and cook with one hand, and how to negotiate the delicate matters of the head without falling over. Finally, at the end of our six th day, we sailed into hesa ea e ay our first landin since leavin iami. Although I was tired and more than happy at the thought of stopping, I was also sad that our journey was over. I had met numerous challen es and as no runnin on the fiery fuels of adrenaline. e ulled u at an end doc at Little ree arina in orfol ir inia. t as 1 00 a.m. and my first ste s on shore were like steps into a dream. The ground rose to meet me and I stumbled along like I had suddenly become weightless, yet very clumsy. The nex t morning I woke to the unfamiliar sensation of stillness. I made my way up on deck, pen and paper in hand and began to record my ex periences. As I wrote I felt like I had a heavy hangover, but without the nausea and headache. y reathin as la ored and shallo and my ody vi rated as thou h on a hi h fre uency. y eyes watered, presumably from relief or release of pent-up emotions. The feeling stayed with me for several days, and the physical memory for several weeks. Despite having ex perienced a new level of fear, despite the nausea and the numerous bruises attained while trying to get my sea legs, even despite my hair getting so many nests I could have housed a whole family of rats, I realiz ed that I had just taken part in a once-in-a-lifetime ex perience. e an to thin that may e as one of that reed ay e what I thought was a birthright can actually be learned. ay e am a sailor. I thought I would be afraid being in the middle of a seemingly endless ocean, that I would spend all my time being seasick, that I would never be able to walk on deck or handle the sheets. Instead I gained a new appreciation for myself, my partner, the ocean, sailboats and sailors. Riding the storm was one of the most intense ex periences

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of my life, a worthy introduction to ocean sailing, and no matter what my sailing future holds, I will never again ex perience the same physical and mental challenges. Yet now, each time we set sail I look forward to the end of the journey, to a time at which no matter how uncomfortable I may have felt, I know I will be elated at having faced, and hopefully overcome, a new set of challenges. Is this what it means to be a sailor?

Evolution

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Flotsam & Jetsam

Hanging onto a Topmast By John Simpson

Once we did a night passage with a young crew on J olie B r is e (J B a fine rench ilot cutter. e left from calasai olonsay ust efore sunset then rounded the est coast of ull finishin in o ermory. he ind had een lo in uite hard south esterly most of the day hilst e d een visitin the island. Accordin to the forecast the ind as due to moderate to that ni ht. After e d cleared the northern end of the island e felt the full force of ind and s ell left over from the day s lo . han fully the meteorolo ical ods had ud ed it ri ht ivin us a fast reach in 1 1 nots of ree e. J B could easily carry much more than all lain sail consistin of mainsail lar e i and staysail ut the cre ere all teena ers. oistin and settin even these sails too a lot of s eat effort and time. he d easily have

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carried the to sail ossi ly even her enormous an ee ith its foot luff han ed on at the end of her 1 foot o s rit. e ere sli in alon ell at seven or ei ht nots ud ed that as enou h. here as no need to have youn fol s on dec or out on the s rit co in ith more heavy ear at ni ht. After clearin the south est corner of ull and ona and earin a ay the ind suddenly died. he sea and s ell left over from the earlier lo e an rattlin her hu e aff oom and sail around fri htenin ly. er heavy mainsail ith all its ro es loc s aff and oom lus associated iron or started ma in horri le noises tryin to tear the ri a art. hou h her to mast as su orted y a lon forestay lus one runnin ac stay the youn mate and had a ad feelin . e mi ht easily rea or s rin s lit crac

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this 30-foot spar if we didn’t do something rapidly to stop it waggling around. J B ’ s topmast was new. It had already been broken in the Channel Isles earlier that season! (Not by me I hasten add, though I’d been aboard on a Fife schooner, B elle A dv en tur e, in the Caribbean when we’d sprung one!). If a topmast breaks on the foremast of an old vessel, very often the bowsprit also snaps because there is no forestay to sto it e in do n ards. ence J B was sporting a brand new bowsprit too!

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Flotsam & Jetsam Fortunately, the engine started. We turned and started to run gently with the swell behind us, even though this headed us northeast towards q uite a mess of rocks and islands. This alteration of course stopped the nasty sound of iron and wood crashing around. Thank goodness the topmast stopped e in too ur minor crisis was over... Murphyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s L aw decided that the wind would return, just as suddenly, half an hour later, well before we were able to find an unlit island and hide ehind it e resumed our course north and all enjoyed a lovely broad reach until arriving at the northern part of Mull. As we turned

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east dawn was already breaking, giving a veiled glimpse of Ardnamurchan Point in the north. The southwesterly breez e died away completely as we came under the lee of the island, having to motor the last few miles into Tobermory. After mooring to the spare ferry buoy, when the crew was asked if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d enjoyed their first ni ht assa e offshore it as a resoundin es Despite heavy and persistent rain, which seemed to have set in for the day, the crew still anted to e lore ashore. L eaving them in the capable hands of my three older crewmembers, I decided to stay aboard and have a glance at the ne t le of our tri . hilst o in my head out

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the hatch for a break, another old, white, wooden yacht caught my eye. Her crew were looking for a mooring in a very crowded harbour. With a feeling that I recognised the boat, I suddenly realised it was T em p tr es s (E dward Allcard’s old 1 9 1 0 34-foot yawl) owned by a friend who kept her in Falmouth. Giving them a hail I suggested to Vicki and Mark that they come alongside J B . Both were very damp and looked q uite relieved, having been unable to find a vacant erth. After they’d dried off I invited them aboard for a brew. Mark began to speculate if these two old craft had ever been alongside each other somewhere before. (George Martin had converted J olie B r is e into a yacht in 1 9 24.) If so it would have happened well before we’d been born...

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Flotsam & Jetsam

Liveaboard While Learning To Sail? By Chris Vonada

L ive aboard and learn to sail at the same time? Is this possible? Whenever I thought of the liveaboard crowd, I imagined they had to be super seamen who held a captain’s license and had circumnavigated at least a couple of times before their acceptance into the club. Then I watched some videos of people who were pioneering and did just as I am. J ust check out “L a Vagabonde” or “Wicked Salty” on YouTube - true stories of newbies living the life! There are many more.

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Taking the plunge and learning to sail at the same time can be intimidating. We all know not to mix beer and liq uor. How’s it go, “beer on liq uor, never sicker?” Or maybe a bodacious chemistry volcano. Baking soda and vinegar spell eruption. L iving aboard while learning to sail doesn’t have to be that way. I have found if you establish a few guardrails this can be copacetic. And fun! Here’s what I’m learning: Know your limitations. For a rebellious person I am very cautious with my sailboat. First of all, my Cape Dory

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is 36 feet long and has a full keel. The prop seems tiny when you consider I have eight tons of lead ballast in the keel and a gross weight of 1 6 tons. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to get that much weight moving in the water. This boat is big and heavy. Getting in and out of the slip was initially one of the most intimidating feats. I do not have bow thrusters, just a single prop powered by a 54 horsepower Perkins 4.1 08 e ngine. Yes, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of motor for the vessel, ho ever it s still difficult to maneuver at times. he ey here is to get to know your boat. Try monkeying around in the open water. L earn how to turn it on a dime. And always consider the wind and current when determining how you are going to approach a dock. Apply your transferrable skills. Knowing maps (I know, they are charts on a boat lol), compass heading, apparent wind, having a sense of direction and understanding the relief of the land below the waterline were all second nature to me. I graduated college with a degree in Geology. I was the nerdy guy who determined

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Cruising Outpost 107 7/31/16 11:39 AM

Flotsam & Jetsam

our location when the professor got us lost in the mountains. These are my transferable skills. I’m sure you have some too, particularly if you have a knack for electrical or mechanical systems, engines, outboards, meteorolo y or fishin . ec even ein a le to thro a line to a dockhand can be an invaluable skill. Don’t fret if you feel like there is a lot to learn about owning and mastering a boat. here is o ever you don t have to know everything to live on a yacht. I would highly recommend boating safety classes. Try http://www. boatus.org/courses/ - they are offered free for each state in the U.S. There are lots of options for beginner and advanced courses online. You can also find rivate or rou instruction in many cities. Of course, living on your boat at the marina is also an ex cellent way to network with other sailors. You will meet plenty there. Plus, they are a pretty jovial crowd for the most part. Consider your crew before venturing out. One of my ground rules from the beginning was not to take the boat out of the slip without a real sailor on board. I

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romised myself that ould stic to this for the first si months. And I did! I feel like I still have a lot to learn a out seamanshi and sailin . o ever ould feel comfortable taking the Sols tic e out now. Not by myself. I don’t understand the desire to sail alone, but to each his own. I enjoy taking new people out and also just going with friends. It is very helpful to have at least one other person on board who can throw a line to the dock or jump off with a line in hand. Also, they are super helpful at keeping me from bumping into my neighbor in the adjacent slip. Depending on the wind speed and direction, this can still be tricky. When the conditions change, back to the ol’ boy Scout motto: Be Prepared! If you have ever checked the weather report and headed to the beach for what you thou ht ould e a eautiful day ust to find out a few hours later there was a monsoon approaching, you will take heed in being prepared both at the marina and out at sea. I use several different weather sites, one for general weather/radar, one for wind forecasts and another for anticipated sea conditions. I wish I could get all that

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7/30/16 11:17 AM

information reliably in one place, but havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t found it yet. Closing the hatches and portholes when you are going to be away for a few hours would always be a good idea. I love the fresh air, but one ex perience of a wet interior changed my process when heading to the grocery store. I have also grown accustomed to asking lots of q uestions of friends at the dock or via email. And I peruse the sailors forums and Google in general for answers (cruisersforum.com is my go-to personal fave). Information is more valuable when you no it efore you need it. a e an on oard fire for e am le. ost fire e tin uishers that live on oats only dischar e for 10 seconds. Also many on oard fires ill double roughly every 30 seconds. So you have, like, one shot at this, literally. L ive aboard while learning to sail? Yes, it is not only possible, but fun! It cuts the learning curve considerably. L iving on your boat means you will be spending more time there. That translates into more time to work on and learn about her. That time decreases the duration you will be on the learning curve. Then you are accepted into the club. Before you know it your neighbors will be asking you q uestions and wanting you to take them sailing! Bask in the camaraderie, Captain!

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Cruising Outpost 109

7/30/16 11:17 AM

Cruising Outpost’s

Book Review Red Flags In Blue Water

M isad ventu res of a F reel anc e Sea Cap tain B y R A B ard Rather than another book by a cruiser sharing their uniq ue story of ocean adventures, Captain R A Bard was a commercial fisherman ho has ta en on oat deliveries as his divergent job. He shares with us a variety of the misadventures he’s had while delivering boats from point A to point B for others that either do not have the ex perience, or the time to be bothered. Not a bad gig when things go right … getting paid to go sailing, why not? For all you dreamers of having the “perfect job” doing just that, read on. Normally, I do not choose to review a book of short stories, but with this one J ody sent a note, “I think this could be informative.” To me it was more than just informative. Q uite frankly, it sometimes struck a little too close to home. Having my own ex periences in boat deliveries, these brought back some memories I would just as soon have forgotten. For those avid CO readers, you might recall the article “Hawaii to Vanuatu” and sailing naked as it was never intended— but I digress. a tain ard s first story is a out a delivery of an old ooden fishin tra ler that had een converted to a liveaboard cruiser. The new owner wanted it brought to California from its home port in Puget Sound. “You bought a boat without a survey … i s it sound?” Bard

110 Cruising Outpost

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R ev uew by

C apt

.J im C as h

asked. Now I know from whence the book title came, “Red Flags...” To make matters worse, the owner wanted to come on the delivery. There is an old adage among delivery skippers. “Never, but never, do a delivery where the owner insists on coming along.” Therefore, I must assume our author had not heard that one yet. Without reciting the entire story suffice it to say there were engine issues, an onoard fire and the conse uences that happened by forgoing the repairs and maintenance that should have been completed before leaving the dock. Nex t we have a challenging delivery of a sailboat, where the crew was all seasick and the autopilot was locked in the straight position as they drifted toward the rocks! Frantic calls for rescue and a prayer for brown trousers lead up to the eventual resolution of the crew’s seemin ly com le li ht ith a mere i of a s itch. The story of Paradise Obscured was the delivery of a 50-year-old steel, 7 0-foot, twin-engine, former charter sailboat named R a q uela . Again, the owner was accompanying as crew. It was initially proposed as a delivery from Panama to the Galapagos, but turned into a cruise throu h the acific slands. ounds li e a dream cruise, right? Not ex actly. Throw in engine problems, crew struggles, and what appears to have been an

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7/27/16 11:29 AM

“asocial” owner that insisted on communicating only by satellite phone and anchoring far from any other boaters. Interestingly for the reader, the skipper will recount why his trip ended in Bora Bora without him even taking in the beauty of the Tahitian surroundings. In the passages of Red Flags we are treated to a delivery do n the acific est oast ith a roundin of oint once tion often referred to as the a e orn of the alifornia coast ith its 10 foot aves and the dod in of frei hters in the anta ar ara hannel. One of the more interesting stories, for me, was the return delivery of a acific u race oat from onolulu ac to its home ort in Lon each alifornia. hile have sailed t ice from alifornia to ahu have never sailed ac . t is an arduous voya e havin to sail close hauled north to latitude 0 to avoid the acific hi h efore headin ac east toward the U.S. mainland. On this trip our skipper had a crew which, he learned later, was using this voyage to kick a ha it cold tur ey. Add to this the loss of the antenna the failure of the autopilot and the loss of the watermaker system... who says this is a dream job? a tain ard also offers an account of a rofessional fishin venture alon Alas a s Aleutian slands. or those like me, not familiar with the challenges of this industry, it was a fascinating story and made me understand why the author decided to abandon that career to help move pleasure oats around the acific cean. he final story ends on a some hat hi h note. his too is a return delivery of a racin sail oat from a aii after the famed Victoria to Maui Race (Victoria, British olum ia to aui a aii . his as to e a tain ard s first ocean crossin delivery and it had all the tri ulations e ected hen castin off for the first time to cross the a yss of ocean that is a never endin e anse of ater. t is in this story the author a es oetic hile discussin one s “watch duties” once getting into a comfortable routine. e rites A f eelin gl ik et hi s ,t h a tw h a tw e’ r ed oin gi s j us t th er ig h tt hi n gt od oa tt h et im e,i s c om m ona ts ea ,a n d is hy oat o ners have een a le to find cre or all sorts of m is b eg otten v en tur es .D idt h es a ilor w h or e- en lis ted af ter ah ellis ht w o- y ea r w h a lin gt r ip… d os ob ec a us eh e w a s al os er a n dd r a n k u phi s p a y i nt w ow eek s a n dh a d n oc h oic eb utt og ob a c k ?I ti s m or el ik ely … h es a w t h e c om m un ity w h er ehi s v a luew a s u n q ues tion a b le.” The foregoing is a respectable summation not only of his book, but why we all go, or read about going cruising. There is an unq uestionable value in the contribution we all have to ma e hile e are out there on lue ater.

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Cruising Outpost 111

7/27/16 11:30 AM

Life Aboard Life on a 20-Foot Boat

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K atie: Besides the fact that C a lic o is mine, I fix ed her, sail her and live aboard. I love the boat rocking me to sleep, even in bad weather. I am on a mooring now, but I enjoy being on anchor the best. C ru ising O u tpost: To be Harbor Patrol you need good/q uick boat handling skills. How did you learn that? K atie: I’m not sure you learn all of it. I know what I know by feel. Also, the Harbor Department has a good training program we all go through. C ru ising O u tpost: Being on an island, how do you get everything you need to live on? K atie: There is a small store on the island. On my days off I take the ferry to L ong Beach and get what I need. C ru ising O u tpost: What do you like best living aboard at Catalina and working for the Harbor Department? K atie: I get to make a living driving a boat and helping people in a beautiful place. I spend my days outdoors on the water. What could be bad about that? C ru ising O u tpost: What is the hardest part of being alone on a mooring on an island? K atie: I miss my mom, dog and friends. C ru ising O u tpost: What is nex t for Katie Scott? K atie: I have accepted a promotion in the Harbor Department and will be moving to Ventura, California. I will miss Catalina, but this is a good move for me. I get to take C a lic o (my home) with me. I will also be able to have my car in Ventura, which will enable me to see my friends and family

I f it w er en ’ t f or “ c r a z y ” I ’ d n ev er g o a n y w h er e.

e found Katie Scott working in the Harbor Department at Catalina Island in California and learned that she lives aboard a 20foot boat, so we knew we wanted to hear more. C ru ising O u tpost: Tell us a little bit about your boat. K atie: S/V C a lic o is a 20-foot Flica built in 1 9 7 8 . I have owned and lived aboard her for four years. C ru ising O u tpost: What made you want a Flica and at Catalina Island? K atie: After graduating from Berkeley and working several years for Disneyland, I wanted something different. I grew up sailing and knew I wanted to live on a sailboat. My mom helped me find C a lic o and it was love at first sight! She needed some work and I was able to do it with some help. Then I took the test for my Captain’s L icense and passed. I applied at the Harbor Department and got the job, so I moved to Catalina Island and went to work. C ru ising O u tpost: How did you get enough sea time at a young age to get the Captain’s L icense? K atie: I grew up sailing with my mom on her boat, C a ts p a w . I was in J unior Sailing as a kid and I was a Cox swain on a 60-foot sq uare-rigger. My grandparents were very involved in sailing. My mom has always sailed and is a captain. It is what I know, what I grew up doing. C ru ising O u tpost: What is your favorite thing about living on a boat?

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7/27/16 1:33 PM

E d itor R ob in S tou t A b oard Mermaid

more. It will be different living at a dock and I will miss being rocked to sleep in my bunk. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure I will sail to Catalina when I have time off. C ru ising O u tpost: Do you have any advice for our readers who have always wanted to live aboard a boat like you did? K atie: J ust do it!

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Cruising Outpost 113

7/27/16 1:33 PM

Life’s A Beach! A First-Time Power Cruising Family Make The Break!

The kids shouted “Goodbye Tex as!” as we motored into the murky brown waters of Galveston Bay with the sun beaming down. It was so miserably hot and muggy that my glasses were already fogging up, which wasn’t good because this was the first time ever s i ered a oat in saltwater. I attempted to look as calm and collected as possible under the circumstances, but I knew I wasn’t fooling my wife who was gaz ing upon the fear and dread in my eyes. I knew that I was a moron, but I didn’t care because I was living my dream. I had purchased my 33-foot Cruisers Yacht in Austin, Tex as, from someone who kept her in a covered slip and never took her out. I kept her around for a couple years and took her out sparingly. I did none of my own maintenance. Hell, I could barely get

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By Robert Hamic

her back into the dock after a day on the lake. It was truly embarrassing, but somehow worth paying for the dockage. al ays thou ht ould fi ure it out. My wife, Aubrey, and I had a whirlwind romance after meeting on match.com. My screen name was aptly titled “L ife’s A Beach.” We moved in together after a month and we were married in six . In the intervening seven months I had somehow convinced my new bride to sell all that we owned and move aboard with two small kids and my very large service dog. In all fairness, all she had to do was say, “yes.” I did all the rest. I had learned that second chances don’t come along very often, and after a 1 4year marriage to a wretched woman, I retired from the Army and somehow met the love of my life. The happy

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7/27/16 1:38 PM

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place in my mind had always been aboard a boat in the Caribbean and now it was all possible, if not probable. I would never let a little thing like ex perience stand in my way. How hard could it be to captain a boat? I remember watching alone as the Travelift lowered my vessel into the seawater. M is s L on eS ta r never looked so unfamiliar. “Make sure you check to make sure the plugs are in and she doesn’t take on any water,” said the dock master. I froz e. What plugs? I ran down a possible list of problems associated with not knowing where the plugs were located on my boat, and I weighed it against the feeling I would have if I asked her the obvious after I had already committed to being a boat captain. I can’t tell you the relief I had after I cracked the engine hatch and watched for a few moments, not seeing any water coming into the hull. My problem was solved for the moment and I got to defer the obvious conclusion that I was a freaking rookie wishing to undertake a seriously dangerous voyage that might be the end of all aboard. I had allotted a couple days to get the boat all sq uared away at the dock in Kemah, TX , which q uickly turned into a week. I had the usual problems, such as not knowing how to get the AC working or knowing where my seacocks

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Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A Beach!

ere located. e met our first doc nei h ors ryan and ennifer ho indly sho ed us everythin e needed to no and literally hel ed us re ire the oat in the rocess. hey ill li ely e lifelon friends. e uic ly came to the conclusion that e ere someho res onsi le for everythin a oard our oat includin no in ho to fi everythin . hy had ut all of the most useful and e ensive tools in stora e and not ta en one of the four i e renches alon h ell est arine as close. ive thousand dollars later e ere to in off our tan s and venturin north on our o n to ards Louisiana on the ntracoastal ater ay . steered around an oil tan er u ahead in the channel ecause heard that they created a seven foot a e. added to the s and retty soon the oat as travelin at a out 0 nots. thou ht it as ust li e ein on the la e until ecame concerned that the de th as si feet and not increasin . ne my ouldn t lie to me at a crucial time li e this. y eyes ere loc ed on that for hat seemed li e an eternity ut as ro a ly closer to a fe seconds. re eated the follo in hrase in my head a thousand times lease don t ill us too a left at the ecause still didn t confidently no my ort from my star oard. Au rey

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s o e u and as ed hat s the to s eed of this oat told her that didn t no and decided to ic the s u to a out 00 ecause it felt so ood. efore could say alli ator e ere ri in out of e as at a out nots li e e stole the oat. efore our de arture told eo le in Austin that learned everythin that needed to ca tain a oat y um in out of an air lane in the desert. n fact had learned a lot of thin s on the y and in really ad situations so fi ured that this e erience ould e no different. he ids ere do n elo ith Au rey in the A atchin movies ith the enerator firin a ay. as all on my o n. he oat felt more res onsive and felt free. he ree e as in my face and the ators ere in the ditch ettin roc ed y my four foot a e. sa e actly no oats for a out 100 miles ut did notice my fuel au es movin uic er than e ected. recalled that the o ners forum told me that used a allon of fuel for a out 1. miles travelled. as certain that carried 0 allons and only anted to et 1 0 miles out of the day. ne in my heart that this as conservative day. ori inally lanned to ma e it to ntracoastal ity LA ut the frea in as au es must ve een ro en or malfunctionin that is hat thou ht at the time.

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7/27/16 1:38 PM

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We were in L ake Sabine, TX , and it was the last fuel possibility before our intended destination. The Tex as ICW proved to be as desolate as its boarder with Mex ico. My GPS told me that a fuel station was just around the bend, under a high bridge. I thought I heard banjo music playing as I steered between the half-sunken boats and hard-looking rednecks that must’ve wondered what in the hell we were doing. Needless to say, the fuel dump had long closed and there was no fuel. Aubrey sensed my uneasiness as I took off the nice watch I wore for our maiden voyage. She signaled to me from down below, silently asking if I wanted one of my guns. “Not yet,” I thought, but I said, “No babe, no worries.” She knew I was lying, but she didn’t call me on it.

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Cruising Outpost 117

7/27/16 1:39 PM

Life’s A Beach!

So there was no fuel in L ake Sabine that day. Intracoastal City was too far and I didn’t want to chance it. The nearest gas spot was in L ake Charles, L A, but it was another left and pretty far away. I envisioned running out of fuel on my first day on the water and it could’ve sunk my whole master plan of retirement, just like when those guys used to throw grenades at me. I took the left and made a B-line for the fuel spot which answered the phone and confirmed that they would be open until 6:00 p,m. “No worries,” I thought.

Now I don’t think I’ve mentioned that I had just installed a new GPS on M is s L on e Sta r and I didn’t know how to plot or work it properly. We were cutting it too close for my liking. I diverted my attention from piloting a 1 4,000 lb. vessel travellin at 0 nots and filled ith five souls to tryin to fi ure out this thin called . sa an o enin to the ri ht that appeared to be a shortcut and I veered my course to accept the gracious opportunity of a few minutes shaved off of my time. I slowed as the depths got shallower, but I took comfort in the sight of a huge body of water that was as big as most Tex as lakes I’d ever seen. “No worries,” I thought.

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7/27/16 2:44 PM

Shallower, slower, was the theme repeated until I shoaled M is s L on e Sta r in a freaking swamp (so it said on the GPS upon closer inspection). I turned off my engines because I didn’t want to ruin the new propellers or cutlass bearings. I called a tow boat because I had a free policy. The captain who answered the phone said it would be a couple hours. I was a failure. Aubrey didn’t nag me, but I felt her stare and look of uncertainty. I had to do something and fast. I tried to pole the boat with a paddle from my dinghy, but it just sank in the mud underneath the vessel. I noticed that I had my dinghy on a ramp at the back of the boat. I got it off, but M is s L on e Sta r didn’t break free of the shoal. Then I noticed the line I had in the dinghy. Perfect. I could pull the yacht off of the shoal with the dinghy. This eq uation only made sense because I am from Oklahoma. The nex t thing I felt was arm ater en ulfi n my ody as cut the din hy too sharply to one side and went overboard. I came to the surface and I heard Aubrey laughing and reminding me (in her most shrill voice) that there were gators and bull sharks in my new harsh environment. It was annoying. Needless to say, I got out of the water like I never touched it and my efforts were successful because the boat broke free. We called ahead to the fuel spot and Aubrey pleaded our case to the owner because she has a cute voice and I do not. He kept the station open for an additional 30 minutes and we saw him and his whole family standing on the dock to help us into the pump in Contraband Bayou, L ouisiana. Captain Doug Shearman helped me put 1 9 6 gallons of fuel into our boat and gave us a free slip because he could see the confusion and sunburn on my face. “It’s okay boy. And it will get better, I can promise you that.”

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7/27/16 1:39 PM

For over four years now, Cruising Outpost has been helping build a new brigantine named after one of the most rolific and one of the first men to build boats on the West Coast. Matthew Turner was more than ust the most rolific uilder of sailin ships in history, he was also responsible for one of the greatest innovations in commercial sailin vessel hull desi n. y movin the dis lacement of the shi aft, Turner was able to narrow the bow of the ship. This made for a sleeker entry throu h the ater hich ave his vessels more speed and stability. Prevailing wind and sea conditions differed reatly from the Atlantic to the acific. urner s ne desi n favored the conditions of the acific and made for a etter sailin ship at all points of sail. This innovation and several other Matthew Turner design features helped propel his vessels to out-perform all other sailing ships of the era. The brigantine is a two-masted sailing vessel with a fully sq uare-rigged foremast and at least two sails on the main mast: a sq uare topsail and a gaff sail mainsail ehind the mast . he Brigantine main mast is the second and taller of the G al ilee two masts. The G a lilee ri ht as a ri antine built in 1 8 9 1 a nd designed by Matthew urner. he as used as a car o shi travelin et een an rancisco and ahiti and as considered very fast once com letin the ourney in a record

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1 9 d ays. In 1 9 05, the G a lilee was chartered y the arne ie nstitution s Department of Terrestrial Magnetism and converted into a ma netic observatory. G a lilee ended her days in ausalito here she sat in the mud ats as a houseboat. She was later dismantled and her ori inal transom is located at ort ason in an rancisco. R E G E N E R A TI V E E L E C TR I C P R O P U L S I O N Imagine a sailing vessel that will meet her energy needs through re enerative o er. y com inin technolo ies from the 1 th and 1st centuries s i in over the etroleum era ducational all hi oundation ill ecome a uni ue teachin tool that can ins ire a reciation for ast oat uildin desi ns hile utili in innovative technolo y solutions to construct a truly reen sailin shi . he asic re enerative electric ro ulsion conce t is simple. Instead of diesel engines, the ship is propelled y A electric motors directly connected to the ro eller shafts and drawing energy from large battery banks. When the ship is sailing, the ener y of the assin ater causes the ro ellers to rotate hich in turn causes the electric motors to ecome enerators that re char e the atteries on oard. i nificant electrical ener y is created as sailin s eeds increase. e advances in ro ellers electric propulsion/regeneration motors, battery WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Old Fashioned? technologies and electronic controllers make this possible and are available today. E TS can, in fact, operate on a carbon neutral basis. E nergy to run the ship will come from

ne o ieo

NOT!

i din i e in a a i o

regenerative power under sail, onboard generators fueled with recycled vegetable oil, and dockside charging from solar panels and wind generators. The

ronze fi in in a hic an in

dockside solar will be facilitated by the US Army CORPS of E ngineers at their Bay Model

he ronze r dder o o o o n

he hee

ear o d hi a a dona ion

facility, which has recently been outfitted ith a roofto solar array that generates 540 kW/h. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a very modern operating system for a traditionally built wooden boat.

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T h e M a t t h e w Tu r n e r A project like this is only as good as the people who are involved, and that will make the M a tth ew T ur n er one great training vessel. Once completed she will be able to take up to 38 t rainees on overnight and ex tended voyages to ex perience sailing a tall ship. Up to 1 2,000 students per year will be able to train on this new vessel. The ship will be used by the Call of the Sea Foundation, which has been sailin the acific trainin sailors for almost 0 years. The construction of the M a tth ew T ur n er is using many of the methods which were used building the

F acts are S om etim es S tranger than F iction!

hirty five years a o the man ho is the of the ducational Tall Ship Foundation, Alan Olson, taught me how to sail on the tall ship Ston e W itc h , which he built, C apt. A l an C apt. A l an and which was O l son 1983 O l son 2016 the Flagship for Greenpeace when it blockaded Diablo Canyon’s Nuclear Facility. I signed on as crew for a three-month sail to Central America to see if the sailing life was for me. It was. For the nex t 35 years I lived aboard and sailed over 1 00,000 miles. Alan and I fi ure that et een us, with his “Call of the Sea” Foundation and my publications L atitudes & Attitudes and Cruising Outpost, plus the over 20 Advanced Cruising Seminars I’ve sponsored, we have changed (ruined??) thousands of peoples lives by introducing them to the seafaring lifestyle. And it all started on S/V Ston e W itc h , a 7 4’ sq uare-rigged topsail schooner with no motor, four 21 foot sweeps for power and kerosene running lights. Thanks, Alan, for a great life!

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pg 120-123 Mathew Turner Update-edited.indd 4

early tall ships. The vessels built in Sausalito in the 1 8 50s by Matthew Turner were responsible for the success of many entrepreneurs of his time. Matson L ines began their operations with the L ur lin e. Spreckles u ar had a eet of Turner’s ships, as did

H ere y ou can see what goes into shaping the b u f f al o rail on the stern of the ship.

C&H Sugar. His ships moved between San Francisco and Hawaii at record speeds, making 1 3 round trips in one year including loading and unloading. Only the largest and fastest modern sailing yachts The cosntru ction of the b ow is can hope to beat the b u il t to tak e heav y seas u sing a eight days and six m inim u m of 3 ” pl ank ing. hours trip From S.F. to Hawaii by the L ur lin e, and the nine-day trip from Honolulu to S.F. by the W . G . I r w in . Turner himself discovered the Alaska cod industry and owned and operated the fi rst ac et ships between San Francisco and Tahiti. B el ow d eck s there are f ou r Now we are watertight b u l k head s f or saf ety anx ious to see what the when sail ing in heav y seas. new M a tth ew T ur n er will do on the Hawaii run. We just hope we are aboard for it!

THE PROCEEDS FROM THE RAFFLES HELD AT ALL OF THE CRUISING OUTPOST CRUISERS’ PARTIES NOW GO TO HELP FUND THE BUILDING OF THE MATHEW W. TURNER.

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A Ne w A g e o f Sa i l !

h r da a ernoon a i in i e i ci ar i e er h r da an o he o n eer a her o ha e a co d one and a ood ci ar a en or a o e done

hree o he ori ina Stone W itc h cre on he dec o M athew Tu rner o Ca in an on a e an h r e a Bo Bi chin

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Len th on ec 100 ft ail Area 11 sails 100 s ft arred Len th 1 ft ei ht of ain ast 100 ft eam ft is lacement 1 tons raft 10 ft erths for voya in onstruction ou las fir and ron e fastenin s o er o1 electric motors atteries o 100 an s of lithium atteries uel enerators o 0 io fuel enerators

How To Get Involved

There is still a long way to go to get the Matthew Turner out where she belongs. L ike to help? et involved ere s here you ill find more info

educationaltallship.org

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Cruising Outpost 123

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There’s This Place:

We left Tunisia in late May, sailing north to Italy to see friends in Brindisi, but not before visiting Sicily and the Aeolian Islands. Our plan was to sail through Greece and arrive in Turkey, our new winter home, in October. But with only 9 0 days and part of those already used, we decided to sail northeast from Brindisi to Schengjin, Albania, and then down the Albanian coast before entering Greece in Corfu. We had warnings from E uro sailors and some Americans that Albania was not the place to be. We heard everything from it being a dirty place to it’s crime ridden, run by the mafia everyone carries a gun, unfriendly people and much more. “Perfect,” we thought. Sounds like our type of

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place, as we will be the only boat there. And of course it is outside the Schengen area. As we approached Schengjin the Imray “Adriatic Pilot” by Trevor and Dinah Thompson had a bit of a description, but lacked any real details. Our Navionics and OpenCPN electronic charts showed a narrow, but adeq uate, channel into the port. We called the Port Captain several times req uesting permission to enter the harbor and after no response we said the heck with it, we are going in. The water was not as clear as the Caribbean waters we had sailed, but good enough to judge if we were going to get into shallow water. Patty went forward to watch water depth and I gently moved

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our J eanneau DS40, with a 5-1 /2â&#x20AC;&#x2122;, draft toward what the charts and I thought might be the channel. With one eye on where we were going and one on the depth meter I slowly approached the middle of the breakwater. The depth meter read 1 8 feet. It started dropping and soon we were in over 20 feet of water as we rounded the breakwater. Ahead of

us was a large dock with two people standing on it waving us in. We turned, dropped our anchor, backed to the ferry dock and tossed our lines to a policewoman and another guy who ex pertly tied us off and introduced themselves to us. The man was an agent who would handle all our paperwork, and if after we collected ourselves we would

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There’s This Place: Albania

bring our paperwork to the nearby coffee house, he and the policewoman would meet us there to check us in. We knew we would have to use an agent in Albania and that was okay with us as we have had to do similar in other countries. Checking in was a matter of drinking some ood coffee fillin out a cou le of a ers and ayin the agent a heck of a lot less than we had anticipated. In fact, the fee was q uite reasonable. Schengjin is a tourist town with a huge beach, and it’s full of beach holiday makers from the Balkans and E astern E urope. Two streets run the length of the town which reminded us of tourist resorts we had seen everywhere we had been. Spending some time with the agent and talking to the Port Captain, they told us the harbor was dredged, and the breakwater ex tension and ferry dock were only a couple of years old. We wanted to visit Shkodra, perhaps the oldest city in E urope, and asked our agent how we could get there. He said he would arrange it and the nex t morning we were picked up by a guy who, it turned out, was one of the tug boat captains. (He said the entire port heard our radio calls when we were heading in and laughed at the number of times we called.) Shkodra has one of the best natural fortresses in the world, and fortunately, you can drive up to it. The Albanian’s held off the Ottoman’s there for a long time. After a couple of days of visiting Schengjin and Shkodra, we headed south to urras. ut first e had to check out with our agent and tell him if we were going directly to Durras or stopping along the way. We told him we were going to stop and he checked us out.

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We sailed south across a large, beautiful bay and had an early evening after we snuggled up in a channel behind Cape Pali just north of Durras. The nex t day we sailed out and around the cape, then gave the well-marked Durras shoals a wide berth. Durras is Albania’s largest port and does not have any real facilities for cruising boats. We called the Port Captain and were giving permission to enter the fairway and come into the port. As we entered we were a bit confused of where we were to go until we saw a man standing on the dock waving at us. He wanted us to go side-to in front of a large freighter. Sure, why not? A couple of longshoremen grabbed our lines and under the direction of the person who waved us in, positioned SoulM a tes on a large bumper designed for freighters. With our fenders out it was a perfect place to get off and on. The man ex plained he was an agent and would take care of our clearance if we would give him our paperwork. We told him we had already cleared customs in Schengjin and gave him our outbound clearance. He told us to wait. We began to shut the boat down and got ready to head out. Before we were done he returned, gave us his card and told us if there was anything we needed just call. He asked when we would be leaving and we told him the nex t morning at 07 00. He said he would see us at 0630 with our outbound paperwork. In the “Adriatic Pilot” Durras is described as not safe at night so you should arrange for a guard for your boat. We also read that it was just a dirty industrial port town with little to offer. Nonsense! We found just opposite. The port is very safe, as is the entire town. Durras is a beautiful town

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with a wonderful walkway along the waterfront, lively tree-shaded streets with sidewalk bars, cafes, and great restaurants. Our mistake was not staying more than one day. We were overwhelmed with its friendliness and beauty. The nex t day, as promised, the agent met us early and gave us our outbound clearance. Before we entered Albania we had been in contact with Irene of SailAlbania and before leaving Durras we sent her a message on our E TA for Vlore. As we approached Vlore we were given permission to enter the bay and told to tie up to one of tugs on the dock. With a stout south wind we were really glad to see a large ferry across the front of the tugs which gave us a great wind break. Pulling alongside the tugs a man waved us in and caught our dock lines. He introduced himself as working for Irene and he would handle our paperwork. He took our outbound paperwork and q uickly returned and told us we could proceed to Orikum Marina which is the only real marina in Albania. It is owned by an Albanian/Italian consortium and managed by L ugi, who is Italian. As we followed both the “Adriatic Pilot” and our electronic charts we came past the breakwater and found plenty of depth. At the end a dogleg turned to starboard and lead along a roadway to the marina proper.

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L ugi and Irene were waiting for us on the dock and waved us into a slip Irene had arranged for us. All slips have laid lines, water and electricity. We backed in. The security was ex cellent with a gate and a 24-hour guard plus police presence in the marina itself. There were ex cellent toilets and showers and fuel could be arranged with either a tax i to a petrol station or delivery along the roadway that leads into the marina by small tank truck. There was not a chandlery er se ut e did find some boat parts in hardware stores and someplace along the way we found a 201 4 copy of “7 7 7 H arbours and Anchorages” that was up to date and actually showed the Schengjin improvements. We stowed the “Adriatic Pilot” as it was outdated and used the “7 7 7 ” the rest of the trip. After finishin our a er or with L ugi, we sat with Irene for a while and had a great discussion on sailing in Albania. Irene has a Master L icense and at one time worked on large passenger ships around the world and really understands the nuances of sailing in Albania. She also is trying to develop a small sailboat charter business in Albania. Albania sailing is still in its infancy, and as such, has limited infrastructure for pleasure sailboats. But there are coves, inlets, and ports where boats can anchor or moor while seeing the country.

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There’s This Place: Albania

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眀眀眀⸀欀椀琀猀愀瀀洀愀爀椀琀椀洀攀⸀漀爀最縀㌀㘀 ⴀ㘀㌀㌀ⴀ㜀㐀㈀㄀ Orikum Marina is actually a couple of kilometers outside the small town of Orikum, and about a 1 5-minute minibus ride to Vlore that costs about $ 0.35USD. While there is no schedule, buses run q uite freq uently between Vlore and Orikum. In Vlore we were very surprised ith the num er of American a s e sa and even more surprised by the number of people who spoke n lish. he to n is very modern ith u scale fashion stores street side cafes arrefour rocery stores and a lar e assortment of fruit and ve eta le stands alon ith meat utchers. e had not seen fresh oran es or citrus since leavin unisia and ere very sur rised to find that Al ania ro s citrus. e stoc ed ith oran es tan erines and ra efruit efore headin ac to SoulM a tes to plan our inland ex cursions. he reason e cruise is to see and e erience different countries and cultures. hen e et a chance to head inland e ta e full advanta e of it. Leavin SoulM a tes in Lu i s ood care e oarded a us to irana the ca ital of Al ania. he Adriatic ilot told us irana as reasona ly safe ut you do not o out at ni ht. e found it entirely ron . irana is a vi rant modern ustlin city ith una ashed consumerism youn eo le sittin in street side cafes te tin on their hones and noisy traffic around ander er uare in the middle of the city. f you ant to understand Al ania o to the ational istory useum hich tells an ama in story ta in you from the ancient llyria eo le ho tau ht the ree s ho to uild tem les to ost communism. he si ns are in n lish and it is e tremely ell laid out. e andered around the city oth day and ni ht and had a reat time eatin all ty es of different food and drin in some really ood Al anian ine. ne day e too a us to ru a the home of ander er Al anian s national hero ho defeated the ttomans numerous times. We entered the museum and were asked

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where we were from. When we told them the USA they welcomed us and told us Presidents Carter and Bush had also visited. Below the museum is one of the greatest small a aars e have een to here you could find everything from the very old, to communist memorabilia, to modern tourist items. We continued our bus travels through the country. We had read that under the communist government over 600,000 pillbox es (a type of bunker) had been built all over the country and sure enough, we saw a lot of them. But we also saw modern factories, vibrant cities, and an infrastructure that, in places, was awe inspiring. We ended up in a mini bus headed to Berat. The mini bus driver insisted that we sit in the front seat with him. At one roadside stand he stopped, bought three ears of barbecued corn and handed one to each of us. He stopped a second time and bought some type of local fruit and again shared it with us. Such is the courtesy that we found all over Albania. Berat is a small town built into the side of a hill with a castle on top. On arrival Chuck looked up and said, “L et’s go,” while Patty looked up and said, “Go ahead, I’m taking a tax i.” The road leading up is very steep and made from granite rock; can you say slick. The tax i could not make it and had to go the long way around to get up. On top was an old town within the walls, but the highlight was a religious museum where a few very old icons were on display. It was not the icons, but the woman who worked there, that made it special. After a bit of coax ing we sat and talked about how the people managed to hold onto their religious beliefs when the communist government tried to eliminate it. The best history is living history. Once back in Orikum Chuck had picked up a cough from and it had become much worse, but as he always does, he blew if off and refused to go to a doctor. We loaded SoulM a tes with fresh food and wine, checked

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There’s This Place: Albania

out and headed south with good north winds on a nice downwind sail to Porto Palermo and one of Ali Pasha’s forts. On our visit we found not only a fort, but also a prison. One look around and we decided it was not the place you would want to spend a lot of time. L et’s just say Ali Pasha was not a nice guy. The nex t day Chuck’s cough was a lot worse. We slipped our lines and headed south to our last stop, Sarande. We called the port captain as we always do, and as usual did not get an answer so we continued, and as always there was someone waving us in. We dropped our big Delta and backed into the dock. Nancy, of “Our Own E x peditions,” caught our stern lines and helped tie us up. Nancy is an American married to an Albanian, and an agent. She took our papers and asked if we needed anything. Chuck, for once, said yes, “I need a doctor,” and started coughing. ancy told us to et settled and come to her office and she would make arrangements. When we got to her office ancy had a ca aitin for us and a driver ho spoke ex cellent E nglish. In just a few minutes we were at the hospital emergency. We had read that medical care was not very good and medicines were sparse. Chuck had been a medic in the military and worked his way through college in a hospital emergency room. We found a very modern, very clean hospital eq uipped with great technology. The doctor did a q uick ex am, ordered an x -ray and called out a pulmonologist. Chuck was diagnosed with a combination of bronchitis and pneumonia, told he was to sit on the boat and come back in a week. With six different prescription in hand we stopped at a local harmacy that filled them at uite a lo cost. If Schengjin is a beach resort, Sarande is a beach resort on steroids. It is called the Albania Riviera for a good reason. It sits at the end of a large bay that has a

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broad walkway with hotels, restaurants, bars and night clubs all the way around. E ach evening it seemed like the entire town came down to the walkway to enjoy the festivities. urin the day the each as filled ith sun orshi ers and the ay filled ith s eed oats pulling parachutes or water toys. Ferries came and went all day bringing new tourists to ex perience the wonders of Albania. There was a four-boat dockage area, but when we arrived it was full and Nancy nicely fitted us in at the end of ferry doc that as the same height as our boarding ladder. While we were there Nancy had an American college student come to us with a survey of boater needs, for if they wanted to winter-over there. Albania is serious about developing the infrastructure for future cruising boats. With the week almost over and Chuck feeling much better, Nancy suggested a q uick, easy bus ride to the archeological ruins of the city of Butrint. Butrint lies in an evergreen subtropical forest inhabited since the 8 th century, BC. While we were there we watched archeologists slowly uncover more of the ancient city. At the end of Chuck’s mandatory rest period he revisited the pulmonologist who performed a vast array of tests. He said his pulmonary function was normal, but when we were stopped for the winter he would need to have additional checks. He outlined an area on the x -ray that needed to be checked. With x -ray in hand we stopped to see Nancy to clear out of Albania. She took our passports and told us to get the boat ready to go as she would be just a minute. Good to her word, she showed up before we were totally ready to go with our passports and clearance. As she tossed us our dock lines Nancy said, “Don’t forget Albania.” How can we forget Albania? We both vowed that we would return. We are simple, unabashed lovers of Albania.

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Cruising Outpost 131

7/28/16 9:49 AM

Talk of the Dock - Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s N Charter Time

So youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had a great time sailing this past summer, and now you wish it could continue even as the days get shorter and the leaves begin to fall. Never mind the weather, just go chartering. Sailing a charter boat means you can get a tan most anywhere in the world and you don t even need to fi anythin that rea s. f you re thin in of a inter or s rin eta ay read on for ne s that may impact your fun in the sun.

f you re thin in of chec in out t. Lucia or renada and need a smaller model, the new Moorings 42.1 , also y eneteau may fit your rou etter. he master ca in forward has a double bed with an en-suite head and shower, while guests in the two aft cabins share the second head. Up to si ill e comforta le elo as ell as in the enormous coc it for hich eneteaus are no n. e oats are o ular so oo no to et your choice startin in ecem er.

The M ooring s U p d ates Carib b ean F l eet

The Moorings is preparing to debut all-new monohulls in the Caribbean for winter 201 6 and that means you can get a new boat loaded with goodies. Coming to St. Martin, t. Lucia renada and the ritish ir in slands the Moorings 48 .4 by Beneteau has four cabins, four heads and room for up to ten guests to cruise in air-conditioned comfort. Twin wheels, a drop-down transom and a suite of aymarine electronics ma e mana in everythin on dec easy while the 7 5 HP Yanmar and bow thruster will let you loo li e a ro under o er.

132 Cruising Outpost

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7/26/16 2:20 PM

s New & What’s Goin’ On? By Zuzana Prochazka

All The Latest News That Fits Between The Sheets As an “Insider” Zuzana sees a lot of what’s happening inside the boating industry. If you are into the boating lifestyle, chances are you’d like to be privy to some of the things that will affect your lifestyle as soon as they become available. So here is some of the inside info she has found while working the boat shows and industry functions.

ests for Certi ates of Competen on the ise

It used to be that all you needed to charter a boat was a VISA card. The times are changing and now certain countries in E urope req uire documentation of com etency s ecifically an nternational ertificate of om etence or acht aster credentials before letting you have a bareboat. Here’s where it gets tricky. The U.S. isn’t a signatory to the resolution that mandated this so citiz ens aren’t technically eli i le to et an and the acht aster is advanced and ex pensive training. It’s unclear as to which countries are seriously involved but most agree that even a . . . aster ariner credential ill not e acce ted since it has no practical test component. The American Sailing Association is trying to rovide an ans er ith their nternational roficiency ertificate hich you can a ly for if you have successfully completed ASA levels 1 01 -1 04. U.S. Sailing has an eq uivalent. NauticE d.com claims to be able to issue s to . . citi ens via their com ination of online and ractical testin ith an instructor. ou can contact all to see which may work for you. ertain countries li e roatia have een articularly difficult and it is a matter of the country s re uirements not the charter com any s so an may not e reco ni ed. reece ain and ortu al all have req uirements but it’s unclear as to what they will accept. he issue is even see in into the ari ean ith eli e ein the first to re uire certification. If you’re confused, you’re not alone because there doesn’t seem to be one answer. The best plan is to contact the charter company in the country you wish to visit, prepare a sailing resume, and if eligible, apply for your A A ecause it can t hurt. ream acht oorin s and Sunsail have online forms to help create a comprehensive sailin ac round for you and your first mate. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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on t i nore this or you may e forced to hire a captain for a crewed charter when you arrive or forfeit your e ensive vacation. on t rocrastinate. t ta es time to et your a er or to ether. on t assume that if the charter company allowed you to book a boat, they won’t as for credentials hen you arrive. o en uire u front about their req uirements and get all answers in writing. If you run into problems, consider chartering in the South acific e ealand or Australia here this hasn t o ed u as an issue yet.

nti

a ailin Wee

Test your racing skills and your rum-resistance, by heading to Anitgua’s Sailing Week. The month of April 01 ill mar the event s 0th year and it s sure to e an even i er arty. ou can ru el o s ith racin roc stars without bringing your own boat by chartering and participating in the bareboat regattas. At the end of the day, regardless of the caliber of the vessel or the crew’s performance, everyone ends up having fun at the nonstop arties that occur ni htly. are oats from ream acht and Sunsail are already going fast so sign up now or miss the boat nex t spring.

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7/26/16 2:21 PM

By Lee Chesneau

IDENTIFIYING KEY WEATHER SYMBOLS ON THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE(NWS) SURFACE PRESSURE CHARTS Surface pressure weather charts (analyses or forecasts) systems, of L ow and High pressure systems, on what have a wide range of symbols that represent a variety of otherwise would be a static chart. weather conditions. These weather symbols on a surface For all Surface Pressure Analyses charts: pressure weather chart are intertwined or integrated A i h ressure system is identified y an within weather systems and their patterns. Mariners need character symbol. to study the weather systems and their patterns of which • A L ow pressure system or Tropical Depression is the symbols are integrated with, identified y an L character in order to further understand the symbol. s ecific eather conditions they he or L character will ex perience. symbols depict the latitude Mariners must reproduce the and longitude positions of the weather symbols depicted on all system(s) based on the chart’s surface pressure charts onto a alid ate ime. navigation plot for any given voyage • This is the case for all Analyses plan. Then they can evaluate the and Surface Pressure forecasts. weather conditions day by day on • The position that a High pressure the voyage plan by referring to the system will be 24 hours from the s ecific overlay of eather sym ols alid ate ime is illustrated on the I nset A : H ig h& L ow P r es s ur eS y s tem S y m b ols as depicted on the navigation plot. ra hic a ove hich is an inside Mariners must then be able to an enclosed circle. recogniz e, differentiate, and determine the clouds and • The position that a L ow pressure system will be s ecific eather conditions associated ith the eather hours from the alid ate ime is illustrated on the symbols, especially the marine advisories or warnings as ra hic ith an . issued by the National Weather Service!! • So, for all surface pressure analyses, there will be Finally, mariners must be able to only a 24-hour incremental future determine the impact on a vessel’s direction of movement as well as operation and performance for the 24-hour forecast latitude and rudent safe and efficient navi ation longitude position of all Hs and L s. with their vessels on a given voyage See Inset “ B ” plan for any body of water, whether In this generic graphic cruising within the inside inland illustration, we are looking at waters, a bay or sound, an inside 24-hour incremental tracking passage, or over open ocean! movement - latitude and forecast L et’s break down surface longitude positions of High and pressure weather charts by L ow pressure systems (Hs & Inset B : T h e I n c r em en ta l T r a c k in g of H ig h & introducing surface pressure chart L s) over 48 -hours for each 24L ow P r es s ur e Sy s tem s symbols. We begin with synoptic 48 - and 9 6 -hour Surface Pressure scale High and L ow pressure systems, the tracking of Forecast charts. movement and intensity trends of these systems. • As depicted on each of the charts, one will see See Inset “ A” the High and L ow pressure system’s incremental The National Weather Service’s Ocean Prediction hour osition rior to the alid ate ime as Center (OPC) provides a uniq uely different service from well as the 24-hour positions forward from the same other government agencies. On a single chart, one can chart s alid ate ime the e am le a ove is more determine movement and strength of major weather definite in its intent.

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• The underlined 3- or 4-digit number nex t to, under, or over the “Hs” or “L s” is the rounded-off central surface pressure (barometric pressure) at the chart’s “Valid Date/Time.” • When under a thousand millibars, it will be in the 9 00s underlined, and over a thousand millibars or higher, there will be 4 digits underlined. • To reduce clutter on the Surface Pressure charts, the central atmospheric pressure values for the interim 24-hour latitude and longitude positions before and after chart’s “Valid Date/Time” are shown with only two digits underlined. f under 1000 milli ars the first num er character (9 ) is physically stripped from the 3-digit central barometric pressure, and if 1 000 millibars or more, the first t o num er characters 10 are hysically stri ed off of the 4-digit central barometric pressure and underlined. • Thus, one must mentally insert the 9 o r 1 0 before the two digit underlined central barometric pressure values. So for the illustrated Inset “B”: • We track a 1 022 mb High pressure center 24 hours before the “Valid Date/Time”” to 1 024 mb at the “Valid Date/Time” to 1 030 mb 24 hours after the same “Valid Date/Time” for the 1 024 mb High pressure system. • In the case of the L ow pressure system, a 9 9 8 m b low 24 hours before the “Valid Date/Time” becomes 9 6 mb at the chart’s “Valid Date/Time” then 9 9 9 mb 24 hours after the same “Valid Date/Time” for the 9 9 6 mb L ow pressure system. • One should never be confused as to whether to mentally insert a “9 ” or “1 0” before any of the interim 2-digit 24-hour interval central barometric pressure system’s Inset C: 2 4 - H our Sur forecasts, simply because the atmosphere is not likely to go to ex treme central pressure values! Trac king 4 8 - H ou rs of a Devel op ing M id d l e L atitu d e “ H u rric ane F orc e” L ow P ressu re System See Inset “ C” 1 . This 24-Hour Surface Pressure chart was issued at 1 6:34 UTC on February 1 2, 201 0. 2. The Valid Time is 1 2:00 UTC on February 1 3, 201 0, indicated on the 24-Hour Surface Forecast product header. 3. The human intelligence input to this forecast is “Senior Marine Meteorologist - “Vukits.” 4. The 24-hour Surface Pressure forecast predicts the low to deepen to “Storm Force” 9 8 3 mb by 1 200 UTC from a “Gale Force” 9 9 7 mb L ow from 1 200 UTC Feb. 1 2th. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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5. The L ow at the “Valid Date/Time” is intensifying to “Storm Force” from the day before it was received, based on the wind barbs of 50 knots just to the west and southwest of the center of the middle latitude L ow pressure system. • If you backtrack 24 hours to the position at 1 200 UTC on February 1 2, which coincides with the Date/ Time position of the Surface Pressure analysis that a different marine meteorologist produced (McRandal - not depicted in this article), both forecasters are working side by side on the same forecast shift, so coordination does take place for continuity. However, forecaster McRandal has forecast data that is a little bit older when he “issued” his Surface Pressure analysis (1 451 UTC) on Feb. 1 2th, so his 24-hour forecast for the L ow pressure system (9 8 7 mb) on 1 2000 UTC 1 3 Feb., is based on older data. • Vukits “issued” the 24-Hour Surface Pressure forecast at 1 634 UTC (almost 2 hours later) also on Feb. 1 2th); he has the L ow’s position about the same latitude and longitude, but the forecast is for the L ow pressure system to be “Storm Force” 9 8 3 mb (versus “Gale Force” 9 8 7 m b on forecaster McRandal’s Surface Pressure analysis chart). • Vukits is also predicting the L ow pressure system to move E NE to NE and with developing “Hurricane Force” wind conditions over the nex t 24 hours from the “Valid Date/Time” of the chart (or approx imately 48 hours from the time the chart was released or “issued” into the public domain for access via various communication means. • At 48 hours, the forecast is for a 9 68 mb “Hurricane Force” f a c e P r es s ur e C h ar t L ow at near 40N 55W at 1 200 UTC on February 1 4, 201 0. • At 1 200 UTC on Feb. 1 2th the L ow pressure system is a 9 9 7 mb “Gale Force” low in the Gulf of Mex ico. By 1 200 UTC on Feb. 1 3th the L ow is forecast to be 9 8 3 mb “Storm Force” southeast(SE ) of Cape Hatteras. • At 1 200 UTC on the 1 4th, the same middle latitude L ow pressure system is forecast to be “Hurricane Force” SE of Newfoundland at 9 68 mb as its central barometric pressure. • So we the tract the same L ow pressure system as significantly intensifying or deepening and moving very fast over 48 hours or a two-day progression. Consider where your boat will be while this is going on!

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The CU TW ATE R 28

D ownsiz ing Withou t G iv ing U p By Kurt Antonius

e sail ed over 20, 000 mil es on ou r N ord havn 4 3 . I t w as a w ond erf u l vessel and w e l oved her, b u t the time had c ome to sel l her. O ver the ensu ing t w o years af ter the sal e, I f ou nd mysel f missing a b oat. A l ot. I missed my man- c ave. I missed Catal ina. I missed the d oc k sc ene. I missed b eing o n the w ater. I missed seeing w hal es and d ol p hins u p c l ose and I missed tool ing a rou nd in a b oat.

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7/26/16 2:24 PM

So I started looking around for my next boat— a smaller, simpler boat, less costly, easy to singlehand, yet with some of the creature comforts I had been spoiled with on the Nordy. I wanted a small galley, a comfortable bed, a wet head, room to hang out, a decent cockpit, swim platform, a fuel efficient but reasonably fast boat. I was spoiled by the Nordhavn’s great looks and constant compliments from fellow boaters. So I wanted a boat with similar good looks. The cudy-cabin type boat didn’t cut it for me. The plasticEuro look and whaler type didn’t do it either. I looked and looked and looked. Voila! The Cutwater 28. Best of all, the dealer was close by in Long Beach (CA). The boat exceeded all my expectations. The Cutwater 28 has a DownEast-style look and 25 knots top speed. There’s a large V-berth forward, nice little galley and salon, refrigerator with freezer, wine cooler, roomy 16 sq ft cockpit, big swim platform, Volvo Penta 260 hp Diesel, built-in small diesel generator (3.5 kw), AC/Heat pumps, state of the art Garmin electronics, and much more. The designers at Fluid Motion, builders of Cutwater and Ranger boats in Seattle, did a really good job of space utilization, especially important on a 28 footer. It’s a Swiss Army knife of a boat. There are many cool little features that really maximize space and utility: A skipper’s seat that flips and folds to convert two-person seating to four-person seating at the salon table. Folding seats in the cockpit that tuck under the gunnel. The two-person transom seat flips

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D ownsiz ing Withou t G iv ing U p

over to face aft while at anchor. A flat-screen TV is mounted on a swing hinge and serves either the salon or the V-berth. The CW 28 features a multi-purpose lower berth that accommodates a tight sleeping area for two people, but also serves as a storage area and place to sit and access the boat’s electrical breakers and meters. My vessel is a special production, Limited Edition model, Cutwater 28 LE. It is so loaded with features that it amazes any boater who comes aboard. Standard on my model: Bow and stern thrusters, full Garmin electronics including Garmin 7612 chart plotter, high def, 4 kw radar, Garmin sonar and auto pilot, 3.5 kw gen, ac/heat pump, air conditioning/reverse cycle heat, refrigerator/freezer, electric wine cooler, Fusion stereo system, flat screen TV, 140 watt solar panel, 260 hp Volvo Penta diesel, remotes for auto pilot and thrusters, LED lighting and more. The big test came when I saw a break in the winter weather and headed to Catalina Island for a three-day, two-night stay, meeting a friend in his Saber 40 who crossed from Long Beach. The 25nm crossing went fine with four- to five-foot seas at a 12-second period. I had to adjust to the motion of the boat which is profoundly different than on my previous vessel - 60,000 lbs vs 8,000 lbs produces a very different ride on the ocean. It has much quicker responses to the waves and it’s not as smooth, but there’s not the slow roll of the Nordy trawler, even with it’s stabilizers. My wife, who is prone to seasickness, likes the ride on the Cutwater better.

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7/26/16 2:25 PM

I burned a little over 13 gallons and the passage took only two hours. We had Cherry Cove to ourselves for three days, a pretty rare experience and reflective of the joys of winter cruising to the island. Nights and mornings were in the mid forties, but with my generator and heat

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pump, I was warm as could be. The boat performed really well, but I had to adjust to an environment that seemed half as large as my Nordhavn 43. The utilization of space is really critical in a boat of this size and the builders have done a great job in optimizing every nook and cranny.

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I’m also taken back a bit by the barrage of compliments on the overall looks and design of this boat. Fellow boaters are quite impressed by this little yacht, just like the feedback I got with the Nordhavn.

With more than 100 hours on her engine, 500+ miles under her keel and three Catalina trips, I am looking forward to really using this boat to the max as I open up an exciting new chapter in my boating career.

Telesto LOA molded LOA rigged Bridge clr. (mast down) Beam Draft Weight, dry Fuel cap. Water cap. Holding cap. -

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28’ 4” 32’ 4” 9’ 1” 8’ 6” 28” 8,000 lbs 100 gal 40 gal 30 gal

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7/27/16 11:09 AM

Bitch Wings A nother f orm

of com m u nication aboar d B y B il l and JoA

nne H arris

he o ficial “ itch ings” stance as sho n y the authors a oard Ultra

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7/22/16 3:43 PM

For most cruisers worldwide, it is an understood international language and yes, it is used by both men and women. However, in some circles it is just plain ignored. Okay, so what is it, you ask? Think of this scenario... You just made a long and ex hausting double or triple overnight passage with the wind hard on the nose 9 9 .9 % of the time, of course, and you arrive in a very beautiful but very crowded anchorage. As you make your way to one of t o ossi le anchorin s ots you decide the first one looks like an ex cellent and safe choice. Since you are ex hausted and want to sleep soundly, you drop the hoo and settle ac on your anchor to confirm all is well. However, as you are doing so, you notice that the lovely couple off to starboard are standing on the bow of their sailboat just 50 feet away. Upon a closer look, you see that the pair of them are standing with their hands on their hips. Are they holding their shorts up? efinitely not they are olitely communicatin in the boating international language. Yes, after logging tens of thousands of miles aboard, with the last seven years cruisin full time e have definitely een on oth sides of this scenario. S o What the H eck a re B itch Wings? So the q uestion is, what are they trying to say with their hands on their hips and what is the term for this action? Well, up until six a nd a half years ago, we had seen this action but never knew there was a term for it. he first time e met our fun lifelon friends and buddy boat, Kevin, Dena and Connor aboard the L agoon 41 0 catamaran Sa b a tic us , it was 201 0 in the beautiful Bahamas. During Happy Hour aboard U ltr a one night, we started swapping funny boat stories and amaz ing adventures with them. During one of their stories they brought up the term Bitch Wings. We q uickly asked, hat the hec are itch in s heir definition Picture thisâ&#x20AC;Ś W hen another boat is coming closer and closer and appears to be making the decision to drop anchor either ex tremely close to your boat or on top of your anchor, rather than stressing out or screaming o scenities and as in them to o and find another lace to anchor, you politely put your hands on your hipsâ&#x20AC;Ś hence the term Bitch Wings. So funny. You are sending a messa e to them to find another lace than you. Sa b a tic us was sold a few years back and the wonderful previous owners now have resumed their great life on land. We have shared this funny term with everyone we know over these last six a nd a half years,

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so if you hear this term in a conversation, now you know where it originated - aboard Sa b a tic us . A few years ago we were anchored at one of our favorite spots in St. Martin (French side) called Orient Beach. It the site of a fantastic white sand beach and an all nude beach resort. After being in the very crowded lagoon anchorage for several weeks, before dropping the hook closer to the beach we anchored a little further out for a few nights to have some peace and privacy. We were blessed to be anchored all by ourselves in a remote area of this ex tremely large bay, with the closest boat being a catamaran charter boat anchored a couple of football fields a ay that as ta in uests from the each resort for day cruises. U ltr a q uickly became a fun part of their daily sailing route. After spending a day of sailing, snorkeling and working on their head-to-toe Caribbean tans, the charter boat and its guests would sail off of our stern every afternoon li e cloc or . hey ould find us lounging in our stern swimming pool with cocktails in hand. We would raise our glasses and toast all of them. ote hen e find a reat location that e really enjoy, and we plan on staying there for two weeks or more e in ate our si and a half foot diameter swimming pool on the stern of U ltr a and fill the ool ith a collection of either rain water or watermaker water. A few days later a very large bareboat charter catamaran motored into this tranq uil and almost empty anchorage. We watched as this boat came all the way across the bay and proceeded to drop their hook directly off of U ltr a â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s bow, so close in fact, we could almost reach across our rail and hand them slices of lime for their Cuba L ibres. Yes, we have in the past just picked up our anchor and moved to another location, but we had been settled here for days and were not too keen on re-anchoring mid day. We had learned from all of our anchoring e eriences so e tried the itch in s method first ut to no avail. ote here is a henomenon in the oatin life that if one boat sees one or more boats anchored in a location, then for some reason they feel that this must be the correct or the best location to anchor. We refer to this as a Cluster E ffect. M em b ers O nl y U l tra S ty l e Since the Bitch Wings method did not work for us that day and the boat was sitting directly on top of our anchor with barely any scope, Bill came up with an alternative plan to Bitch Wings. Bill is super

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Bitch Wings light-hearted and funny, a know you now have a complete T hi s i s t he pr ef er r eds tanc e fantastic joke teller and an and super funny visual of this w h enaboar dS/ V Ultra ex cellent practical joker. amaz ing plan. Therefore, we must apologiz e Bill laid out the plan to for the following hysterically J oAnne that she was to video funny story we must tell the event as he ex ited the port you. It is definitely award side door, and he was to climb winning material, at least by onto the roof and pretend to Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Funniest Home adjust the kayak lines. All the Videos standards. while, he would be buck naked Note: U ltr a uses knee-high with his foot-long apparatus nylon stockings from the Dollar swaying in the wind. The Store as shower sump pump famous foot-long sandwich filters. t is a onderfully chea company has nothing on this way to keep your sump pump thing. After doing that for a few clog free and smelling fresh. seconds, he stepped up to the Bill came into the main bow of the kayak to make some salon and announced that he additional adjustments up there had an ex cellent solution to and turned his backside to the this anchoring dilemma. This being an all-nude beach inappropriately anchored vessel and pretended to make area and anchoring community, he had a master plan. more adjustments to the kayak. He q uickly went down into the aft head and grabbed a At the same time, half of the three-couple crew knee-high stocking from the cabinet. He then proceeded were loading up in their dinghy. Bill was still on the to stuff it ith more nee hi hs and after it as filled roof making the adjustments. The driver in charge of he then stuffed his man parts into the opening at the top the outboard motor and tiller was at the dink stern with of the knee-high. To test this contraption he jumped up his back to U ltr a and the two 30-something ladies were and down a couple of times. Unfortunately, it fell off. He stepping down into the dink. As soon as they sat down hailed J oAnne for assistance, asking if she had something and looked up, they discovered Bill on the roof. It appears that would hold it on tighter. She q uickly said she had a the crew had been getting ready for shore, and had not nude colored pony tail holder (similar to a rubber band) noticed Bill working on the roof. The other two guys and she q uickly grabbed it from the drawer. Voile! It and girl were locking up the boat and ready to board worked like a charm. He was demonstrating to her that the dink. The two girls facing U ltr a and the other three it worked by once again jumping up and down. Yes, we people standing on the sugar scoop tending to the dinghyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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painter and ready We went about to board, could our daily boat not help but stare chores, snorkeled at Bill in all of around the boat, his glory. The and chilled out. ex pressions on After the couples their faces were returned from priceless. We their lunch at the do not speak beach, they q uickly, French, but we without a word, did recogniz e, picked up their after reviewing anchor and moved the video, the girls a football field in unison saying away from U ltr a . OMG in E nglish. Yes, this is a funny hey definitely story, but it also O y h ea d n a , h t i h s i s t e h r p ef er ed could not take makes a valid point a nc hor age t y pe onS/ V Ultra their eyes off of in that safety is a him. This started key part of boating, the elbowing and and even more so nudging to signal for us since this is the driver, who our home, too. was missing the We are very sho that as ha enin ehind him. hey all definitely blessed to have many wonderful cruising friends got an eyeful, especially since they were anchored so very from all over the globe. Therefore, we understand that close to U ltr a . ithin the different cultures there are infinite oatin oAnne filmed the event throu h the mini linds styles. Also, some boaters are more comfortable with in the main salon. Although she was unable to capture other boats anchored directly on top of them. Some video of Bill, the reactions of the people and their funny of our boating life has included spectacular E uropean ex pressions told a thousand words. After the people cruising adventures, and while there we ex perienced departed for shore in their dink, Bill returned to the main the uro ean conce t of ersonal s ace first hand. salon where J oAnne q uickly showed him the video. It was Anchoring in tight harbors is more the norm, and so hilarious to see the ex pressions on the couplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; faces. therefore, we understand that is the only option available and the vessels must anchor very closely. However, when there is plenty of space in an anchorage, it is ex tremely important to use proper anchoring etiq uette and to have respect for another vesselâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property. L ife aboard is full of surprises. A sq uall might whip through out of nowhere, or someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s anchor simply might drag. Therefore, it is important to have a plan with some response time to get your engine started and to avoid contact with another vessel. If you have been boating for a while, it probably goes without saying that you have already used your Bitch Wings or witnessed someone else using theirs. Now you know the term for the action, all thanks to our friends aboard Sa b a tic us that coined the term, Bitch Wings.

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7/22/16 3:45 PM

Cruising With the in Panama

B y M ark P arke r, S / V Al l W ays & Al w ays

G or K ? T he G unaI ndi ans hav enow r ittenl anguage . A s ar es ult,any G unaw or dt hat ape ar s i npr int i s s om eone ’ s c hos ens pe lling of t he w or d,us ual ly phone tic , andus ual ly f r om Spani s h.I n m any pl ac es y ouw ills ee‘ G una’ s pe lled‘ K una.’ I nde ed,t he pr onunc iat ion,t om y e ar ,i s about hal f w ay be tw een‘ K ’ an d . In , the Panamanian government o ficially changed the nam ef r om K unat oG una i nr ec ogni tionof t he i ndi ge nous pe opl e’ s c lai m t hat i tw as ac los er r epr es ent at ionof t he pr onunc iat ioni nt he ir nat iv et ongue .I w ill,t he r ef or e,us et he c ur r ent ly apr ov ed‘ G ’ i ns teadof ‘ K ’ i nt hi s ar tic le.

One of the joys of cruising is the opportunity to ex perience different cultures. Never was that so dramatic as on our first tri to the an las slands of anama. e had een cruisin in the an las for a cou le ee s visitin the usual cruisers han outs li e the immin ool the rec at o sland the oco anderas the olandes and more. e anted to et a ay from the cro d and so decided to sail east to see the less visited islands. (There were 1 00 cruisin oats in the an las at that time as re orted y the hursday mornin oat count on the net.

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_pg 146-150 Guna (Kuna) Indians in Panama edited.indd 2

e found a cou le deserted islands ith no other oats and en oyed each com in and snor elin y ourselves. hen e sto ed at sla i re to re rovision ith more fruits and ve ies e first learned a out the celebration scheduled for February 25th. Fernando met us at the to n doc introducin himself as a uide. e sho ed us his island hel ed us uy some rovisions and then insisted that we needed to return by February 24th to be sure to see the reenactment of the revolution on the th in hich he as an actor. mentioned this on the WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Guna

morning SSB “Panama Connection” net and several cruisers who had ex perienced it in the past concurred that it was an event worth attending. On the evening of February 24th there were around 30 boats anchored in the lee of Isla Tigre. We were informed over the VHF that an “informational” session would be held that evening at 4:30. We all dinghied ashore and gathered in the “congresso hut” (the largest building on the island) to hear a presentation in Spanish and E nglish. We learned that there would be traditional dances both that evening and the nex t morning and that on the 25th there would also be a “reenactment” of the revolution followed by chicha (an alcoholic drink made from WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cruising Outpost 147

7/28/16 2:49 PM

Cruising With the Guna in Panama

C r uis er s atg he r f or aw the Sw im m ingP oolanc

eek ly pot l uc k onB ra - B - Q I s landne hor age ,SanB las I s lands P, nam a.

B ea c h c om b in g is g r ea t on th e m a n y des er ted is la n ds of th e Sa n B la s .

fermented corn, sugar cane, and coffee with additional this time the men also were dressed for the occasion secret ingredients). with matching yellow shirts and straw hats. It was truly The evening festivities included a traditional dance impressive to see the men stomping and dancing without with the women in traditional dress shaking maracas and ever missin a note on their utes. he children a ain the men in eans and shirts layin an utes as they followed the adult dancers and in the light of day it was danced. This was followed by a “revolutionary” dance great to see the determination and concentration of the presented by the young dancers as children in which they presented they displayed the each implement. “weapons” of the Finally, it revolution – the was time for the paddle, machete, reenactment. It began broad ax , and with a demonstration pestle (a double of traditional Guna ended ‘ club’ used in skills presented in threshing rice). The several vignettes sun sets q uickly in scattered about the Caribbean and the village. As the the dances were anamanian officials presented in the approached each dusk of the evening, scene, separating making photography husbands from wives difficult. and beating and D r es s ed in tr a dition a l a ttir e, th e G un a da n c e to th e s oun d Fortunately, they were torturing men for not adopting of p a n f lutes a n d m a r a c a s . repeated the nex t morning. the Spanish language and ways On the morning of February 25th we all arrived by instead of clinging to their Guna traditions, the audience 7 :30. After we were seated around an open area in the followed. The elders met and plotted the revolution, and center of town, the Sahila (chief) and several former finally they re elled illin the anamanian olice and also Sahilas and elders entered and were seated on a podium. half-blood Gunas in a “rite of cleansing.” We were addressed by the Sahila who spoke in Guna Initially there were some titters from the cruisers over which was translated into Spanish and then E nglish. He the beatings with foam batons and the very melodramatic spoke of the revolution and the Guna traditions. This performance of the actors, complete with moulage and was followed by the traditional dances repeated from much spilled blood. It q uickly became apparent, however, last night’s entertainment. The main difference was that that this was deadly serious. Several of the older women

148 Cruising Outpost

_pg 146-150 Guna (Kuna) Indians in Panama edited.indd 4

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hi s i s

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had tears in their eyes as they watched. Children clung After the elders had been served, it was our turn. A to their parents. The Guna have no written language and tub of chicha was brought to the area where the men were so this annual reenactment kept their history a vital part sitting and each of us in turn was offered chicha. The person of their lives. One of the elderly women standing behind presenting the chicha would scoop up a serving in a bowl my ife had noticed e as inchin at some of the that was made from half of a calabash gourd. He would hold violence and kept patting her shoulder and reassuring the gourd aloft facing the recipient and both would circle Deb (through her while doing a two own tears) that it step stomp and would be okay. She chanting. E ventually, took off her head the presenter and scarf and put it on the receiver stopped, Deb, ex plaining she facing each other and could hide behind the bowl was passed it or use it to wipe to the recipient who her eyes. She later drained it in a single said Deb should drink and held aloft keep the scarf as the inverted bowl a gift and refused showing it was payment for it. empty. The presenter When the and recipient then reenactment was changed places and finished and the the ceremony was actors had received repeated. It q uickly A s th e p olic e a p p r oa c h ea c h v ig n ette, th e a udien c e their well-earned applause, became apparent that being f ollow s . T h is r een a c tm en t is ex tr em ely r ea lis tic . the Sahila invited all of a presenter was a dangerous us into the chicha hut to drink. Photographs were not position as you had to drink every round. Over the course of allo ed in the chicha hut. As e filed into the hut e ere the afternoon we all had our turn at being presenter although informed that men sat on one end of the hut and women on the cro d of rin os thinned out rather uic ly after the first the other. In the middle the elders lounged in hammocks. couple rounds. Once everyone was seated, the chicha was presented with The Guna probably share a genetic intolerance of alcohol great ceremony to the elders. As each received his gourd that is common among Native Americans. E x cept for these of chicha, he would turn to the brew master to ask if the celebrations in the chicha hut, drinking is not allowed among chicha as ready. eceivin an affirmative the ahila the Guna. During the celebration, however, everyone is would toast the others and drain his gourd in a single drink. ex pected to get totally drunk and we did. Soon we were all

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Cruising With the in Panama

B y M ark P arke r, S / V Al l W ays & Al w ays

146 Cruising Outpost

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Cruising With the Guna in Panama

C r uis er s atg he r f or aw the Sw im m ingP oolanc

eek ly pot l uc k onB ra - B - Q I s landne hor age ,SanB las I s lands P, nam a.

B ea c h c om b in g is g r ea t on th e m a n y des er ted is la n ds of th e Sa n B la s .

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A G unaf ma ily w ta c eh s ar eenac tm ent of t he r ev olution.T how t eh l ege ndi s asp s edf r om eg ne r at iont oge nr at ion.

hi s i s

O en of m any the m ak ingof

v igne ttes de m ons tr at ingt m olas .

r adi tional

G unas

k ills â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

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Cruising With the Guna in Panama

A b ov e: G un a , lik e m la c k f a c ia l h a ir s o m w ith th e c h ildr en . B el ow: A h ea d s c a r f f r om th e v iolen c e a s

os t N a tiv e A m er ic a n s , y b ea r d w a s a b ig h it c a n b e us ed to h ide w ell a s th e h ot s un .

A b ov e: A m ix ed a udien c e of c r uis er s a n d G un a w a tc h a s th e p olic e tea r a h us b a n d f r om h is w if e. K eep in m in d th is is a r een a c tm en t. B el ow: A f ter th e r een a c tm en t, G un a a n d c r uis er s c eleb r a te tog eth er .

great friends despite our language barriers. I was offered a an ute to lay and did a reasona le o of ee in u the t o note rhythm line to my host s melody. A o l of ci arettes and i e to acco as assed around ith everyone artici atin . Li e drin in smo in is uncommon e ce t for ceremonial use. And of course more chicha. n the omen s side of the hut they ere all ettin deli htfully drun as ell. heir ceremony as some hat different ith each of the omen needin to dance across the hut in front of the Sahilas to get their gourd of chicha. Several of the una omen ot to the oint of ein sic fairly uic ly. here as no sti ma associated ith this ho ever. he oman sim ly vomited on the dirt oor and y the time she as done the and Lady came ith a uc et of sand to cover the vomit and another round as had y all. hey too used ci arettes or i es alon ith olly ancher candies to cover the taste

Cruising Outpost

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of the chicha. nitially they san or chanted traditional una son s ut soon the cruisers my ife in the lead ere teachin the unas to sin anice o lin s ercedes en and other oldies . he drin in continued until all the chicha as one. e started shortly after noon and thin s ere still oin stron hen e left ell into the evenin . am told it lasted until mid day on the th. y ife and ere more than satisfied ith our e erience on the th and the u e left ith feelin no need to return in the mornin . As e sat in our oat that mornin e ere over helmed y our e eriences of the day efore. irst e ere allo ed to vie and hoto ra h traditional dances not very unusual e ce t for the una s an on hoto ra hy. econd e itnessed a livin history resented in a ay that has virtually ceased to e ist in cultures ith ritten lan ua e. inally e ere armly elcomed to a very s ecial cele ration and treated li e lon lost friends. his is truly one of the reatest ifts of the cruisin lifestyle.

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7/22/16 3:48 PM

• Climb aboard 400 boats, 10-100’, New and Pre-Owned - Sail and Power • Demo many of the boats on display • Browse over 200 Vendors • Sign up for “Hands-On” On-water Programs • Attend Free Hourly Seminars hosted by Industry Professionals • Enjoy Live Music, Craft Beer and Fine Cigars Tel: 561.842 8808 • info@SouthWestIntlBoatShow.com

www.southwestboatshow.com

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7/29/16 10:18 AM

3 DAYS ONLY! SEPTEMBER 9–11 AT THE TAMPA CONVENTION CENTER

Best selection! Best prices of the season! Hundreds of boats. The latest in marine gear. Boating education and family fun. Tampa Bay’s premier boat show has it all!

Advance tickets & show info at TampaBoatShow.com #TampaBoatShow WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 156 Tampa Boat Show.indd 1

7/29/16 10:22 AM

46 th Annual

SEPTEMBER 15-18, 2016 N E W P O R T, R H O D E I S L A N D

Official U.S. Debuts of 2017 Boats & Boating Products

P OW E R & S A I L TO G E T H E R | K AYA KS TO C R U I S E R S | M A R I N E E Q U I PM E N T | S E RV I C ES | ACC ES S O R I ES

800.582.7846

ADVANCE TICKETS AVAILABLE ONLINE

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C O N C U R R E N T W I T H T H E N E W P O R T B R O K E R A G E B O AT S H O W A N D T H E N E W P O R T W O O D E N B O AT S H O W

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Cruising Outpost 157

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I Found It At The Boat Show ince e e o ha e o end a o o i e a oa ho e fi red e ro a ho d do o e ac a or ran e eno h drin in P aink il l ers and eating show- d ogs d oesn’ t q u ite m easu re u p to what the I R S peopl e think is work . S o, in ord er to b e ab l e to write of f al l the b oat ho e en e e ac a ha e o a aro nd and find ne o ea re in he a azine no an ea o o eone o a do i

New Mariner’s Knives From the Folks at Wichard

Who say s there is nothing new in sail ing? N ot the f ol k s at Wichard ! They k eep im prov ing on ol d technol ogy . H ere is their l atest tak e on what a m ariner’ s k nif e shou l d b e l ik e! They ’ v e got two m od el s, the new O f f shore and A q u aTerra. E ach f eatu re new S of t G rip hand l es and Wichard ’ s renowned stainl ess steel b l ad es. These k niv es hav e b een d esigned to cu t ev en the tou ghest m od ern l ines thank s to the high q u al ity stainl ess steel b l ad es that stay sharp and resist corrosion.

They al so f eatu re l ock ing, o ne- hand ed b l ad es that open with a pu sh- b u tton rel ease f or f ast and aec Co or o ri hand e ro ide a fir positiv e grip f or hard , l ong- term u se on each m od el . The O f f shore k nif e is d esigned f or sail ing and is av ail ab l e in two v ariations. The l ightweight is a k nif e- onl y m od el , whil e the m u l tipu rpose incl u d es an ad d itional u til ity b l ad e that com b ines a shack l e k ey , spik e and b ottl e opener. B oth m od el s f eatu re a u niq u e com b ination cu tting ed ge that has b oth straight and serrated sections that q u ick l y cu t a wid e array of m aterial s, incl u d ing D y neem a® . The price range starts at $ 2 9 . 9 0 f or the b ase A q u aTerra m od el and tops ou t at $ 5 9 . 9 0 f or the m u l tipu rpose O f f shore v ersion. F or m ore inf o y ou can go to http: / / www. wichard am erica. com .

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section 158 Cruising Outpost

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7/27/16 10:20 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Sailing Sunglasses by Costa The New 580 Lens Cuts the Glare for Better Vision

L earn f rom y ou r parents m istak es! U se b irth control .

C os taSout hpoi

nt P al ladi um G r ey 580P

There are a l ot of su ngl asses b u il t f or u se on the water, and the f ol k s at C osta hav e pu t a l ot of thou ght into how to prov id e the b est v isib il ity whil e at sea. A s a resu l t they cam e u p with the 5 8 0 l ens. C osta S u ngl asses are b u il t b y hand and f eatu re the 5 8 0 l ens which is 1 0 0 - percent pol ariz ed and prov id es com pl ete U V protection. I t al so b l ock s y el l ow l ight - the harshest l ight f or y ou r ey e to f il ter - resu l ting in sharp col or enhancem ent and gl are red u ction. F or of f shore cru ising they recom m end their

C ay anSungl

as s es w itht he B lueM

ir r or 580G

B l u e M irror 5 8 0 G (gl ass) or 5 8 0 P (hard pl astic) l ens. The B l u e M irror, which is em b ed d ed in the l ens so it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; t ev er wipe of f , prov id es great contrast and col or in f u l l su n, and el im inates gl are of f the water. The gl ass l ens is the b est option f or of f shore since it is scratch resistant - b enef icial to cond itions where sal t and sand are present, b u t the 5 8 0 P prov id es al l the sam e great f eatu res and ad v antages of the gl ass l ens at a l ighter weight. F or m ore inf o, go to www. costad el m ar. com and tel l â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; em B ob sent y a!

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cruising Outpost 159

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I Found It At The Boat Show

Clean Waters Solutions It Does a Job No One Else Wants to Do! Cleans the Bilge and the Head!

here i a o o cien ific o o on heir e i e ha i a oi do n o i e he e icro e in o r head and o r i e and o r oa i ar e in ood eno h o ie do n he ie ho e ee er e no hi or a ac ince o r ho e a ha een in he e on heir oa or ear he or he Bi e har he eneficia icro e ac a di e he oi o ha dan ero h drocar on co o nd are ro en do n a he o ec ar e e he re i a r c ean and odor ree i e and c eaner ocean a e ri er and ond i ie o he ad in he i e and re ace a er hree on h or hen odor or heen e in o i d a ain

an a e an a e rea he odor in ho din an he eneficia icro e con e he a onia hich ca e o en i e odor he a o rea do n or anic o id o ha he an or ore e ficien B re en in cr a i d in he o ho e he icro e ee he e i en r nnin oo h Beneficia icro e rin ed on r ace ch a a e en concre e dec a er ond e c an here here i a i he icro e ac a di e he oi o ha dan ero h drocar on co o nd are ro en do n a he o ec ar e e ea in r c eaner ro nd and a er h eah did en ion he are a ai a e a o r hi ore cr i in o o rod c co

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section 160 Cruising Outpost pg 158-162 Found it at the Boat Show Edited.indd 4

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7/27/16 10:21 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Rescue Bond Magic? Nope! It’s Just Rescue Bond.

I m agine com b ining an ou td oor- rated weatherproof seal ant with a strong constru ction ad hesiv e that wil l gl u e any thing to any thing - that’ s j u st the starting point of R escu e B ond . F rom the m ak ers of R escu e Tape, t his new hy b rid ad hesiv e and seal ant d oes the j ob o f d oz ens of d if f erent prod u cts al l in one cau l k ing tu b e. R escu e B ond X L 1 P ro is a “ go to” c au l k ing tu b e when the going gets tou gh. W ith incred ib l e hol d ing power and instant grab , y ou can m ak e onb oard repairs on v irtu al l y A N Y m aterial and k now with confidence ha e c e Bond i oin o do he o This is som e seriou sl y stick y stu f f ! N o other prod u ct on the m ark et wil l ad here to as m any su rf aces, i ncl u d ing those “ hard t o gl u e” m aterial s l ik e pol y sty rene or pol y ethy l ene. R escu e B ond e v en work s whil e wet or u nd er water! P atch y ou r canv as whil e it is raining, s eal a l eak y hatch in the m id d l e of a storm , or m ak e an

em ergency hol e repair on the hu l l of y ou r b oat. . . u nd er water. . . w ith j u st a tu b e of R escu e B ond a nd som e patching m aterial . T he v ersatil ity is second t o none, a nd t he perf orm ance is ex actl y what y ou wou l d ex pect f rom the m ak ers of R escu e Tape. . . i t’ s b itchin! * A l l in one hy b rid constru ction ad hesiv e & seal ant * N O V O C s - C al if ornia com pl iant! * N O S ol v ents * N o H arm f u l Toxi ns - S af e to u se in nonv entil ated ar eas * Works whil e wet and u nde r water * Works on sensitiv e m aterial s incl u di ng granite, C orian, an d e v en pol y sty rene * P aintabl e * R eseal abl e Tip - P rodu ct l asts u p to 6 m onths A F TE R opening * R epl aces m u l tipl e produ cts - I f y ou cou l d c arry O N E tu be of cau l ki ng on y ou r boat , t his wou l d be the one

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Cruising Outpost 161

7/27/16 10:21 AM

The Uni-Fid The One Tool You’ll Use Over and Over Again!

The f ol k s at N ew E ngl and R ope hav e the answer to ev ery cru iser’ s nightm are: pu tting a good “ ey e” i n a l ine. T hey hav e introd u ced t he U ni- F id f or this pu rpose, a nd i t work s. . . w el l ! They hav e m ad e the k it av ail ab l e with m u l tipl e siz es which m ak es f or neater spl ices. T hey com e in a hand y pl astic storage tu b e and i ncl u d e easy - to- f ol l ow instru ctions. S om e of the attribu tes of the new U ni- F id i ncl u de an attractiv e de sign which is v ery easy to u se, qu al ity constru ction which is ev ide nt as soon as y ou open the tu be it com es in, and t he spl icing gu ide y ou see here which is incl u de d i n the pu rchase. F or adde d c onv enience y ou can go to their Y ou Tu be v ide o on how easy it is to u se. S o, t he next tim e y ou ’ v e got a doc k l ine, an chor rode or whatev er, t hat needs a sm ooth and at tractiv e ey e, h ere is the answer f or y ou . T he U ni- F id i s av ail abl e at West M arine and m ost m arine ou tl ets, an d c om es com pl ete with ev ery thing neede d to add a pr of essional l ooki ng ey e to any l ine! F or m ore inf orm ation on the U ni- F id y ou can go to Y ou Tu b e to watch the v id eo, and then pick one u p at West M arine, or check them ou t on- l ine at N ewE ngl and R ope, u nd er accessories.

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Tech Tips

from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop There are a l ot of l ittl e things that can m ak e y ou r b oat easier to u se and m ore enj oy ab l e. H ere are som e tips f rom P au l E sterl e, the au thor of C apt’ n P au l ey ’ s Work shop. M ore can b e f ou nd at www. captnpau l ey . com .

Who Needs Shower Rods On Board? You Do! There are times when you want to glue something in place or temporarily hold something, but you can’t use a clamp. The solution is easier than you might think. Use a spring-loaded shower rod. These rods are available in a wide range of lengths. E ach rod is adjustable in a limited range and has a strong spring to provide clamping pressure. It’s true that these rods are normally used to hold sho er curtains in lace hen a fi ed rod isn t availa le ut the fact that they are ine ensive and have non marring cups on each end makes them perfect. They are also easy to store and ill usually fit ell ehind the settee or bench seating. o the ne t time you are at mart or a similar store pick up a couple of these shower rods and keep them handy on the boat. You will be glad you did!

164 Cruising Outpost

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Tech Tips from Captâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n Pauleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Workshop

Easy Ventalation Using Solar Vents With the boat closed up, proper ventilation is req uired to keep mold, mildew and condensation in check. Ideally, two vents should be used, one to pull air in and one to push air out. For best ventilation, they should be placed at opposite ends of the boat. Solar vents have rechargeable batteries that are charged during the day and power the vents during darkness. Illustration 1 & 2: Showing ideal placement of the solar vents. Use blue tape for marking the pilot hole location and drill the hole.

Illustration 3: A hole saw is used to cut the opening for the vent. A saber saw could also be used if you cut carefully. Illustration 4: The vent is disassembled to access the mountin an e. ith the an e in lace the holes for the mounting fastener are drilled. Illustration 5: Sealant is applied and the lower an e scre ed in lace. The vent is reassembled and is ready to go to work. The motors in the vents turn only one way. To change the direction of the air o the fan lade is removed from the motor shaft and reversed.

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W il l W e See Y ou At The N ew p ort Int. B oat Show Sept. 15-18, Newport, RI Once again the premier boatshow in the US is the Newport International Boat show. This year we will have J essie & Katie from “The Whole Nine Yards” adventure with us, as well as

our ‘ steemed Ad Director L isa O’Brien. We will be in our regular booth all thru the show. Unfortunately we can’t have a party this year, but we are working on findin a ay for the ne t

Cru ising O u tp ost R ad io M akes Deal W ith Trad ew ind A new station, with more music for cruiser’s

Cruising Outpost and the Tradewinds Radio Network have reached an agreement to bring good cruising music to cruiser’s all over the world using broadcast, and streaming venues.

166 Cruising Outpost

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By the time you read this the Cruising Radio which aired on L ats & Atts and then on Cruising Outpost will be replaced on our websites by Tradewinds, which also airs all over the Caribbean & Florida.

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/27/16 2:10 PM

Cruising Outpost Event News If It’s Gonna Happen It’s Gonna Happen Out There Issue #16

Evening Edition

Fall 2016

G et R ead y To P l ay In The Carib b ean Two Cruisers’ Parties, a week apart, in St. Maarten and The BVIs. The BVIs party will be held in conjunction with the 20th anniversary of the Dark & Stormy Regatta!

This year we are changing things up a bit. We start with the Cruisers’ Bash in the Simpson Bay area, St. Maarten. This event will be held on February 25th. Save the date! Nex t, take a leisurely sail up to the BVIs and join the 20th Anniversary of the Dark & Stormy Regatta on March 3rd (yes, they have a cruising class!) The Cruising Outpost Cruisers’

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pg 166-167 Cruising Outpost Events edited.indd 3

Bash will be held on Monday evening, the 6th, on beautiful Tortola at Peg L egs in Nanny Cay. Don’t have a boat to make the regatta? No problem! You do not have to be a part of the regatta to join the festivities on March 6th. This event is being cosponsored by Cruising Outpost and the good folks at Tradewinds Radio. J ody & Bob will see you there!

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Bubba Whartz B u ba an

d t he R acing R u l es

It was just last week that I stopped by Bubba Whartz ’s ferro-cement sloop, R ight G uar d, to have a cup of coffee. Whartz was sitting at an unusual angle in the cockpit because R ight G uar d was sitting at an unusual angle. The boat was high and dry, heeled over at about 30 degrees. I hailed Whartz from the beach and he waved me out, expe lling a bit of Red Man over the side as he signaled. “What happened?” I asked as I climbed aboard from the low side. “Tide went out,” said Whartz , reaching up under his red baseball cap, the one with the Peterbilt emblem on it, scratching his head. Then he went down below and came up with a cup of coffee for me. As we sat on the high side of the boat, our feet on the opposite side of the cockpit so we would not slip off, we talked about life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness before getting around to discussion of the upcoming sailboat racing season. Whartz said that he wouldn’t be participating in any racing on R ight G uar d this year for a couple of reasons. One reason, I concluded, was that the bottom of his boat had so much growth on it--Whartz hadn’t had a bottom job in a decade--that it could well be designated a marine sanctuary. Whartz provided the other reason. “The ratings systems aren’t fair,” he declared. “So, I’ve come up with my own rating formula. I’m calling it PHRF.” “Bubba, that handicapping strategy is already in place. Has been for years.” “No, not that one. My system stands for Personal High Resolution Finance,” said Whartz . “Can you expl ain it?” “Of course I can,” said Whartz , casting a look at me that seemed to indicate he thought I was a tad on the slow side when it came to putting two and two together. “The trouble with ex isting handicapping systems is that they are all predicated on past performance. My PHRF rating system is predicated on how much money an owner puts into his boat for all the go-fast ex tras to make it more competitive. “It’s a bit like handicapping in horse racing. In horse racing you have what are called claiming races. Anyone can buy a horse in a claiming race for the amount of money that the owner says the horse is worth. That way,

168 Cruising Outpost

_pg 168 Bubba Whartz.indd 1

B y M organ S tinem etz

owners are discouraged from running fast horses against slower competition to build up a record, because the way the system is set up anyone can claim (buy) the sandbag winner at a bargain price. “In yacht racing, under my system, all boats would have an original rating based on what the boat cost in dollars. Then for every performance ext ra which an owner put on the boat the rating would be more severe. The owner would be req uired to report ext ra dollars that he put into the boat. If he put lots of ext ra money into his boat and didn’t report it, then under my system someone could claim the boat--with all the new ext ras--for the amount that it would normally sell for without them. It would keep folks honest. I mean no one would like to have to sell a boat he’d sneaked a lot of money into for far, far less than it was really worth.” “Sounds interesting,” I said, not wanting to sound either committed or stupid. “It is,” continued Whartz . “By adding a second per mile for every $100 invested in gear to make the boat go faster, you could even the playing field. Say you had a 186 rating and you put $1,000 into a new 170 percent genoa, you’d have to sail 10 seconds per mile faster because your rating would be 176.” Whartz went on to expl ain that if an owner added, say, new winches to the boat, the rating would be changed by the price difference between the original winches and the upgrades. New sails which replaced old sails of the same kind wouldn’t change a rating. However, a switch from a Dacron cruising sail to a Kevlar racing sail would entail some handicap adjustments. “The lovely thing about my Personal High Resolution Finances system,” Whartz postulated, “is that it would put the poor guy right up on a par with the rich guy. Yacht racing would be a winner all around. Instead of protesting a guy with one of those dumb, little red flags yacht racers fly when they are unhappy, you could put another guy on notice just by waving your checkbook at him.” Maybe it is the refreshing way that Bubba looks at things that keeps me from objecting to all the free beer I have provided him over the years. I suppose that you could call it journalistic lubrication, but I doubt that term exi sts at the NewYork Times.

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7/28/16 2:42 PM

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pg 169 South Coast Yachts.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 169

7/30/16 1:01 PM

1980 50’ Gulfstar - $149,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1980 47’ Mariner - $120,000 Dave Wilder - 410.292.1028

1984 47’ Bristol - $214,900 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1979 46’ Brewer - $99,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

2009 45’ Hunter - $216,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1989 44’ Morgan - $109,900 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288

1980 44’ Cherubini - $219,500 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2007 41’ Hunter - $178,000 Dave Wilder - 410.292.1028

1978 38’ Seafarer - $29,500 Michael Martin - 440.781.8201

1972 37’ Irwin - $32,500 Michael Martin - 440.781.8201

1995 36’ Catalina - $65,000 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288

To see more details about these and all other yachts around the globe, please visit our website at

www.curtisstokes.net 170 Cruising Outpost

pg 170-171 Curtis Stokes.indd 2

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7/28/16 10:42 AM

Worldwide Yacht Sales Yacht Charters New Yacht Construction

1998 52’ Santa Cruz - $499,500 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2013 38’ Shannon - $355,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

1983 34’ Sabre - $32,900 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1989 33’ Siltala Nauticat - $88,750 Michael Martin - 440.781.8201

1981 33’ Canadian Sailcraft - $24,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

1980 30’ Seidelmann - $5,500 Dave Wilder - 410.292.1028

1975 29’ Ericson - $9,900 Dave Wilder - 410.292.1028

1978 28’ Pearson - $8,700 Dave Wilder - 410.292.1028

1993 28’ Hunter - $24,900 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1986 28’ Newport - $16,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1985 26’ Seafarer - $6,990 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

1.855.266.5676 | 954.684.0218 | info@curtisstokes.net WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cruising Outpost 171

7/28/16 10:42 AM

172 Cruising Outpost

pg 172-173 Eastern Yacht Sales.indd 2

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7/30/16 1:06 PM

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pg 172-173 Eastern Yacht Sales.indd 3

Cruising Outpost 173

7/30/16 1:07 PM

174 Cruising Outpost

pg 174 HSH.indd 1

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7/28/16 10:05 AM

pg 175 Wagner Stevens .indd 1

7/26/16 3:39 PM

The Moorings Yacht Brokerage has the world’s largest selection of pre-owned charter yachts.

he Moorings Yacht Brokerage sells over 200 pre-owned charter yachts from the world’s best builders each year. A yacht purchase includes the same “blue-water” ready equipment used to safely sail the boat from the USA, France, or South Africa factory to one of our many global bases. You too can take advantage of the same proven value realized by every other satisfied buyer worldwide whether you plan to sail locally or internationally. Call or email for more details on our select opportunities to own today. Best Boats

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pg 176 Moorings Yacht Sales.indd 1

7/29/16 10:28 AM

pg 177 Little Yacht Sales.indd 1

7/28/16 1:53 PM

SHANNON BOAT COMPANY BROKERAGE www.shannonyachts.com 401-253-2441 sales@shannonyachts.com 19 Broad Common Rd., Bristol, RI 02809

Since 1975, Shannon Boat Company has earned a worldwide reputation for the highest quality sailing and motor yacht construction, attention to detail and customer satisfaction. Our brokerage department offers premier concierge service for buying a Shannon. Our archives including the

2003 SHANNON SHOALSAILER 32’ Highly

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acclaimed low-heel patented hull design. Seaworthy, fast, sails in less than 3 feet of water. Cruising speed of 7 knots under power. Yanmar 40hp diesel engine. Complete Shannon refit. Portsmouth, RI $129,000.

Original Royal Lowell classic fiberglass lobster yacht design. Built and 2016 refit by Shannon, ready for completion to owner specs. Choose your electronics, fabrics, canvas, etc. 300 hp diesel, custom teak interior. Bristol, RI $179,000

1984 SHANNON 38’ KETCH Gorgeous, well

1993 SHANNON 43’ CUTTER Designed by Walt Schulz to combine superb offshore sailing with good speed and exceptional seaworthiness. One of the finest blue water cruising yachts available and fully equipped for long passages and liveaboard comfort. Well maintained with many ammenities. RI $389.000

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original building specifications of every Shannon built as well complete ownership history. We can provide knowledgeable assistance on financing, surveyors, insurance, voyaging, upgrades and repairs. In addition to our Shannon listings, we will assist you with the purchase of Shannons listed by other brokers worldwide. Shannon Brokerage also has

maintained and upgraded for comfortable family cruising. Built by Shannon Boat Company for long-distance, short-handed sailing and liveaboard. Beautiful solid teak interior, Webato forced hot air diesel 12vdc heater, Generous spare parts. ME $97,500

extensive experience in classic yacht sales, refits and restoration of wood and fiberglass vessels. Shannon’s commitment to promoting the sport of yachting has endured for over forty years. We understand the process of buying a boat can be daunting, and our goal is to make the entire process enjoyable and fun.

evident in this Shannon 28. Fully equipped by knowledgeable owners for coastal and blue water cruising. She was built with the skill and quality materials that are hallmarks of Shannon Boat Company of Bristol, RI, as confirmed by Ferenc Mate’ in “The World’s Best Sailboats”. Marion, MA $79,500

Hemmingway’s sportfishing boat “Pilar”. Custom conversion by Shannon Boat Company with composite hull and beautiful low maintenance brightwork. Designed fo carry 12 passengers for tours, offshore charter sportfishing or pleasure use. Perfect Key West business for a young couple or retirees. Custom adaptive interior. Call for pricing and more information.

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178 Cruising Outpost

pg 178 Shannon Yachts.indd 1

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pg 179 Kadey Krogen.indd 1

7/27/16 2:58 PM

The number one source for buying and selling Pre-Owned Leopard Catamarans. The Leopard Catamarans in our inventory are fully equipped for cruising and living aboard, and most have never been chartered. Call or e-mail for more details on any of our listings today! Visit our website to see our entire list of Pre-Owned Leopard Catamarans.

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2007 Leopard 46

2013 Leopard 44

2008 Leopard 40

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Pg 180 Leapord Moorings.indd 1

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_pg 187 Mackie White.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 187

7/27/16 11:09 AM

In th

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Advertisers: You can reach the most active segment of the boating community - In Print or On-Line. Cruising Outpost - Winter - Spring - Summer & Fall Issues Next Issue: Fall 2016 - Ad Insertions by 7/15/16 - Art Due 7/22/16 - On Sale 8/30/16

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B y B ob B

itchin

Staying in Touch with Our Roots

Okay, so this is a little bass-ackwards. In most magaz ines the editorial is up front, where they tout what’s in the current issue. I always thought this a little odd as people who are reading it already have the magaz ine in their hands and will know all to soon just how little content there really is in a magaz ine. I’ve always preferred to try and share an adventure or two with our readers, hopefully with a little humor! But the truth of the matter is, the print magaz ine business is so screwed up in today’s economy we have to think a little off-kilter just to try and survive. Here’s kinda what I mean. Four years ago we did the dumbest thing that could have been done. We started a print magaz ine. Not only that, but in order to show just how dumb we really were, we also decided the ma a ine should e in the marine field. Sure! Good thinking. L et’s look around and see what section of today’s economy is in the worst shape, and start a ma a ine in A field o add to this idiotic plan an over-siz ed, tattoo-covered biker (I was gonna say ex -biker, but the fact is, even at over 7 0 I still love to get out on my Harley!) and you are looking at a business plan only a mother could love. But being a few fries short of a happy meal we went ahead and did it. With the help of our Founders Circle, a group of almost 9 00 cruisers who were silly enough to think this might really work, four years ago issue # 1 of CO appeared on the ne sstands. ur rise ith the very first issue e ecame the best selling magaz ine on the newsstands. Yeah, okay, so it was not all that hard. It wasn’t due to any secret editorial style, or because we are any better WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 189 Latitudes & Attitudes.indd 1

than the other magaz ines. No no! It was because we wanted to, and so we cheated! Well, we didn’t really cheat. It’s just that after 50 years of publishing enthusiast magaz ines (Biker, Tattoo, L atitudes & Attitudes and L iving Aboard), I realiz ed the business model for magaz ines had to change, and we could change because we were starting from scratch. For one thing, we cut ex penses to the bone (much to the chagrin of our staff!!). No rent. No reporters. No “in-house staff ” so to speak. J ust the family of people who live and love this lifestyle. I lived aboard for 35 years and wife J ody for 20, sailing all over the world. E dider (E ditor) Sue, husband Mike and boat dog Sancho have lived aboard for 35 years in SoCal. Ad Director L isa, husband Darren (our Marketing and Video Director) and daughter Arianna live aboard their trawler in the San J uan Islands. Art and Web Guru Rich and wife live in Florida, and spend all the time they can sailing. L ife Aboard E ditor Robin and husband Mike are out cruising and have been for the past five years (currently in Panama)! That’s it. Unlike the other boating mags who have doz ens on staff, we do it all ourselves. And in doing so we stay “in the loop” with our readers. Yeah, there are other things, like the fact that we never run more than 40% ads (the others run 65-7 5% advertising). But I think what is making the difference is, we are all part of the cruising family, as dysfunctional as that family is!

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* Cruisians W h y does Sup er m a n s top b ullets w ith h is c h es t, b ut duc k s w h en y ou th r ow a r ev olv er a t h im ?

*A small, exclusive group of people who are mentally ill and feel, for some reason unbeknownst to anyone, that by getting on a small boat about the size of a jail cell and heading out into the most inhospitable place on Earth (the ocean), they will somehow enjoy themselves.

This is a great pic of Carl Ostiguy at the wheel. It was taken on a daysail out of Newport, RI. In Baltimore it had been raining for 1 9 days and he decided it was time to get out of the rain, so to speak. It looks like he picked the right day to go sailing! Scott & J anet Clarke are lucky enough to live in St Maarten (for the time being!) while they cruise on their boat S/V W in ds w ep t which is an E ndeavor 40. They spend abour seven months sailin and a out five months working, as they realiz ed they had to do the one in order to enjoy the other!

This is L awn & Susy Woodrum. They sail on a 41 ’ trawler named E ur ik a out of Sausalito. This pic was taken at the Matthew Turner Project in Sausalito, CA. We originally met them in Roatan while cruising on L os t Soul.

190 Cruising Outpost

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Who are these cruisers that sail on S/V L a dy J a y lll? They sailed from BVI to St Maarten so they could do both of the CO parties. We never got their name, but what a great picture!

We met L isa & Anthony Vandenberg in the BVIs when they were sailing aboard S/V C a s tillo D el Sol. It’s a J eanneau 43 DS that they sailed from Canada. They have been cruising for almost a year now and plan on staying out as long as they can manage it! Ivy has been a part of our family about as long as she’s been alive. Her dad, Dave Dudgeon, worked with L atitudes & Attitudes and then cruising Outpost Magaz ine for over 1 0 years. She now helps out at shows when she can make it. Cute and smart; a great combo!

This man is Delux e. No, seriously! His name is Make L ux , but evertone on the marine industry calls him De-L ux . he is an avid sailor, and for years was a rep for new Found Metals. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

7/22/16 4:00 PM

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7/27/16 10:55 AM

The Next Step in the Ultrafeed Evolution is Here

THE ULTRAFEED V.3 SEWING MACHINE Come see the new machines for yourself at the Annapolis Boat Show or online at Sailrite.com/Ultrafeed.

Equipping you to sew at home & on the water. At Sailrite, we’ve been supplying sail & canvas workers with all the tools and materials they need to complete their projects for over 46 years. At the heart of it all is the powerful & versatile Ultrafeed Sewing Machine. Add Sailrite’s unparalleled support and you can take on any project with confidence.

Start your next project at Sailrite.com or call 800.348.2769

FABRIC

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SEWING MACHINES

TOOLS

KITS

SUPPLIES

We’ll be at the

ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW October 6-10, 2016 Tent H, Booths 24-27

HOW-TO VIDEOS

7/27/16 3:17 PM

Cruising outpost #16 fall 2016

Articles inside

The Whole Nine Yards