Volume eight, number one
Volume eight, number one
2LETTERS 3REVIEWS 8BOARDS 12DESTINATIONS 20SOUNDTRACK 22WIPEOUT 24LAST RIDE 25NEXT ISSUE
ABOUT THE COVER Surf photographer Leroy Grannis captures not only great water shots, but how we lived, worked, and traveled in the 60’s.
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Ride Forever
You know you’ll want to surf your whole life, so here’s how to start planning ahead.
Salty Old Hatterasmen
They’re a breed all of their own, and you don’t want to cross them. J. R. ventures down south to see what they’re so protective of.
East of Eden
Fiji has always been a playground for the Aussies, now the secrets out. We’ve compiled the very best tips from a few who’ve made the trip more than once.
Timeless
Classic black and white images from some of the greatest surf-photographers to ever grace our pages.
Taking the Heat
The down-low on SPF and its’ effects on your bald head. What you need to know before you paddle out again.
Old and In The Way is published bi-monthly by Guggaman Publishing Company of Southern Shores, North Carolina. Summer Issue Printed once annually and may be pre-ordered. Subscriptions available at Old&InTheWay.com at 49.95 for one year, 89.95 for two years, includes special annual issues. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Reproduction by permission only.
Ride
Forever
you’ve lived t
T
here comes a time in every man’s life to throw in the towel and conform to the expectations of his society. Right, unless he’s determined to keep the
feeling alive. The majority out there expect that we’ll just quietly shrivel up
and wither away, leaving room for the next generation to follow along that same exact path. What the wise waterman knows is that these rules simply don’t apply to us. Once we’ve reached the age that entitles us to move to the front of the line, that’s just where we’ll be.
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the dream, now enjoy the reality
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One Last Ride Like trying to get a little kid out of the swimming pool, men will always be drawn to the ocean, not away from it. We bask in the sun, sleep in the sand, and when it comes right down to it the sea has always been a source of refreshment. That’s why it only makes sense that when it’s time to head home, someone always heads back out for one more ride. Why not.
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Can’t Get Enough
Some folks just have to be dragged out of good surf. Sunset Beach, Hawaii 1969. 7
We’ll get you there, around...and maybe even back
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Fijiians have kept certain islands secret until their deaths Surfing in Fiji in recent times is still a very young sport amongst the locals even though history states differently. It has been documented by early sailors that came down from Hawaii, that they experienced surfing being practiced by our ancestors in Vuna, Taveuni and Koro way back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. They wrote that the Fijian surfers were more graceful than the Hawaiians and that there were more women that surfed which back then was known as “Vakavodo Ua”. This sport was unfortunately lost when the British came and colonized Fiji, ruling out any such lifestyle that was not conducive to the values of European involvement at the time. Today, Fijian Surfing is making a strong revival with the formation of its own Fiji Surfing Association run by locals aspiring to bring back surfing as its national sport. Continuing where our ancestors left off.
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HOLD Gifted but mild-mannered individuals who don’t seek the spotlight, existing softly amid those who loudly call for recognition,are too often overlooked. This could be said of Jerry Lopez, a truly remarkable surfer for over four decades who quietly exudes the best qualities of Hawaiian aesthetics and humble leadership that puts our sport and culture in its best light. A native Hawaiian surfer, with all that entails, Lopez has long been a respected figure among knowledgeable folks and his greatest surfing peers for all those years—a form of an honor undoubtedly more satisfying to him than any kind of high-profile surfing media acclaim.
Leader of the Pack
Jerry Lopez tucks into a Pipeline dream, leaving the kids to fin for themselves. 9
Y D A STE
z