C A L G A R Y / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S : : V O L U M E 3 N O . 3 : : J U LY / A U G U S T 2 0 1 4
“WETTING” OUR APPETITES A SEASON OF SEAFOOD
THIRSTQUENCHING BEERS
Summer Sipping | On The Road | Campfire Treats
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VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #3 JULY/AUGUST 2014
Features 18
West Coast Salmon Celebrating 120 years of Monster Cannery and a look at the five different salmon species indigenous to the area. by Mimi Horita
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Pearls of Culinary Talent Catch Restaurant and Oyster Bar is an amazing example of chef mentoring done right. by Dan Clapson
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All the Fish in the “C” Two seafood markets are making big splashes by Laura Lushington
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The Beers of Summer Breweries create special beers for the lazy, hazy days by David Nuttall
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Don’t Let Go Of The Old Ways Potting – a traditional way of preserving fish by Natalie Findlay
46 Unapologetically Summer: Moscato Moscato: summertime in a glass by Tom Firth
The Garden of France The Loire Valley has a long history of wine making; we explore the regions, grapes and styles of wine made here. by Erika Tocco
Departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
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Event Previews
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Book Review
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Ask Culinaire
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Soup Kitchen
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Chefs’ Tips and Tricks!
22 The Art of Toasting Marshmallows Honing your skills by Jocelyn Burgener
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34 The Case for Wine in July Pick a pack of pretty pinot by Tom Firth
50 Open That Bottle 28 8 Ways to Spice Up S’Mores Mike Roberts of Calgary Co-op by Linda Garson
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Wayfarer: Weekend Road Trips Hitting the road in search of good food by Diana Ng and Dan Clapson
Sangria: The Quintessential Summer Cocktail Classic and innovative recipes for Sangria by Rebecca Davis
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20 Step-By-Step Lobster
Front cover photography by Ingrid Kuenzel, with thanks and appreciation to Executive Chef Myles Learning of Bookers BBQ Grill & Crab Shack for the delicious and photogenic Crab and Shrimp Boil, starring their own homemade sausage, snow crab and shrimp with Cajun seasoning, baby red potatoes, fresh corn, lemon and hot butter. Yum!
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Letter From The Editor As a result, our July/August magazine is the most well supported issue to date, for which we give more thanks and gratitude to our enthusiastic advertisers, contributors, and readers that prove the late nights are time very well spent. Summer means the Alberta Beverage Awards are well underway, and our judges are tasting hundreds of wines, beers and spirits to bring you their top picks for us to announce in our autumn issues. It’s only the second year of the awards, and they’re a huge success!
Thanks so much to everyone for your messages of congratulations and confirmation after winning our ‘Oscar’ last month. I couldn’t be happier than to read those emails that say, “I told you so!”
Summer also means lighter, fresher fare, sumptuous seafood, and outdoor eating and drinking – and we’ve lots of ideas for them that we hope you’ll enjoy in this issue. Cheers! Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief
From a Culinaire reader: “We had a brunch a few weeks ago and served both Shakshuka and Eggs en Cocotte with Smoked Salmon & Goat Cheese (April ’14 Culinaire). One of our guests was a vegetarian and the Shakshuka was a tasty dish for anyone, but perfect for him. And it was easy just to leave the salmon off of his Eggs en Cocotte as the entree is made in individual ramekins. This dish was particularly attractive and absolutely yummy. A couple of days later we had Baked Eggs with Lentils, Rapini and Spiced Turmeric Butter for dinner. Another winner - all three recipes are now included in our book of favourites. It was great to see eggs done in a different way (am a bit tired of “wife saver” recipes). These recipes are not only delicious but nutritious, very adaptable, and pleasing to the eye.” Irene D, Calgary
STO P I N FO R A BITE . A NEW DINING EXPERIENCE AT THE
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PATIO NOW OPEN
CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director Keiron Gallagher and Advertising: 403-975-7177 keirongallagher@gmail.com Digital Media: Laura Lushington laura@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Jocelyn Burgener Rebecca Davis Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Mimi Horita Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Laura Lushington Diana Ng David Nuttall Erika Tocco
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Our Contributors < Rebecca Davis
A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Finishing her sommelier certification in 2008, she instinctively moved her passion to cocktails. Rebecca is a frequent competition bartender, a regular contributor to justcocktails.org and a director of the CPBA. She loves to travel with her work, attending the Manhattan Cocktail Classic and the Cointreau Academy in France. On her days off, you can find her enjoying a classic Old Fashioned.
< Jocelyn Burgener
A former MLA for Calgary Currie, Jocelyn graduated from the Radio and Television Arts program at Ryerson University. She later co-authored Calgary’s Civic Arts Policy. Jocelyn is unique among Culinaire’s contributors, in that she isn’t a “foodie!” It’s her love of writing and getting her teeth into a good story that inspires her quirky food history and trivia pieces. Jocelyn has just published her first book, “Naked Under My Coat – Writing Under the Influence of Parkinson’s.”
< Diana Ng
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Diana is a co-founder of EatNorth.ca, freelance food writer and digital media buff who is passionate about Canadian food. She’s written for FoodNetwork.ca and CanadianLiving.com, among other websites and publications. The only foods she doesn’t like are those prepared badly. Currently craving seafood, from West Coast to East Coast, and searching for gooseneck barnacles. Follow @FoodSalon and @EatNorthCa on Twitter.
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
SPRING
SUMMER M EN U
FOR RESERVATIONS www.KORQwinehouse.ca 801 – 6th Street SW, Calgary AB 587.352.KORQ (5677)
Salutes … Heritage Park Celebrates 50 years
Award’ trophy and title - just in time for 2014 Stampede too!
On July 1, 1964, Heritage Park Historical Village opened its gates to 10,000 visitors. From only a smattering of historical buildings, a handful of costumed staff and a circling locomotive, it has grown into Canada’s largest living history experience.
6 Calgary Restaurants make Vacay.ca Top 50!
Chef of the Year Congratulations to Derek Dale, Executive Chef of Calgary Stampede on taking home the Calgary Academy of Chefs and Cooks ‘Chef of the Year
Vacay.ca’s ‘Top 50 Restaurants in Canada’ guide celebrates Canadian cuisine and the chefs who produce it and the 2014 guide includes six Calgary restaurants! See vacay.ca/2014
Record-Breaking Fundraiser The 10th annual Wine Summit in Lake Louise at the Post Hotel & Spa has raised a record-shattering $104,000
for the Kids Cancer Care Foundation of Alberta, bringing the total raised for this cause to almost $600,000!
Nine New Medals for Field Stone! More congrats to Strathmore’s Field Stone Fruit Wines on their nine medals awarded at two prestigious wine championships! They also received “The Superlative Award” for best of region, “Winery of Distinction Award” for winning 2 or more Gold Medals, and a “Crystal Rose Award” for best fruit wine in the competition. Way to Go!
and Shout Outs … Scopa
New to Calgary’s Food and Beverage Scene In addition to Bonterra, Posto and Cibo, Creative Restaurants Group have now brought us Scopa, a casual neighbourhood Italian eatery on Centre Street N, in Tuxedo Park. Following the passion of Italian food rather than replicating the recipes, Chef Sheldon Guindon’s food is flavourful and generous. Don’t miss the warm Polenta Bread ($4) and signature Grissini ($4) while you choose your pasta, pizza, rotisserie or main! 6
Vine Styles has opened in Kensington
offering an unpretentious approach to wine, craft beer and spirits. Products are organized by taste rather than region, recognizing that that everyone’s palate is unique. Watch out for their second new store opening soon on 10th Ave SW in the Ferocious Grape location. From Mercato, comes the casual Bocce, on 4th St SW in Mission - a vibrant, bustling spot for pasta, pizza and lots more – or they’ll deliver it to your door!
Test Kitchen pop-up series has been
so successful, that it is continuing in late August and on into September! Chefs will rotate, as will location; watch @TestKitchenYYC and testkitchenyyc.ca for a calendar of events.
Catch of The Day Catch & The Oyster Bar now have “Buy Catch”, fresh Ocean Wise seafood for you to take home and cook, along
with house-made clam chowder and sauces. @CatchCalgary tweets daily to let you know what is available, you can call and order a vacuum-sealed portion (complete with recipe!) to pick up later and prepare at home. Great idea!
Gourmet Picnicking Another great new idea comes from River Café for al fresco dining this summer. Gourmet picnic baskets are now available for your mountain day trips or simply enjoying in Prince’s Island Park. Available June to September, $35 per person online at river-cafe.com and at 403-261-7670 (24 hours notice). River Café
Experience great shopping Experience WilloW park Village
new stores new looks..
more than you remember! The season of outdoor entertaining has arrived! Visit Willow Park Village for naturally raised meats, seafood, specialty cheeses, sweet treats and all the other essential ingredients of the season!
www.wpv.ca macleod trail & wil ow park drive se
DISCOVER A WORlD OF TASTE
The International Gourmet Retail Store NOW OPEN in Willow Park Village (Next to Caesarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steak House) 10816 Macleod Trail South, Calgary, AB 403-719-1702
Over 50 varieties of on-tap Grape Seed Oils/Olive Oils & Vinegars, Tapas, Pastas, Spices and more. Offering Olive Oil 101 Courses, Private Tasting Events, Recipe Sessions with Chef Brad and more.
Oil & Vinegar
Main Floor/The CORE 317 7th Ave SW Calgary, AB 403-699-9672 oilandvinegar.ca
July & August Events
by DAVID NUTTALL
Canada Day to Labour Day is festival season. All are about entertainment and culture, but food and drink play an important role too, so here’s some festivals to keep you well fed and hydrated this summer.
Calgary Stampede
July 4-13, Stampede Park Stampede is more than a rodeo, corporate parties and pancake breakfasts - it’s midway food too and there are 32 new menu items this year! Be prepared for crocodile sliders; scorpion pizza; tequila fries; deep fried Cheesies, cookie dough, doughnut bacon cheeseburgers, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, sushi, and bacon-wrapped everything. Well, almost. calgarystampede.com
Fiestaval
July 19-20, Olympic Plaza A two-day free festival of Latin American culture, entertainment, food and the arts. fiestaval.ca
Sun And Salsa Festival
A Taste Of Calgary
Franco Festival de Calgary
July 26-27, Shaw Millennium Park Calgary’s premier francophone cultural event – entertainment, community and arts groups in a festival atmosphere. francofestcalgary.com
Inglewood Sunfest
August 2, Inglewood The streets of Inglewood are filled with art, entertainment, great food, and busy patios. inglewoodsunfest.com
Afrikadey!
August 6-9 Main festival at Prince’s Island Park Four days celebrating African culture, music and food. afrikadey.com
Sure there’s reggae music, but arts and crafts, food vendors, and a beer garden too. calgaryreggaefestival.com
A Taste Of Calgary
August 14-17, Eau Claire Festival Plaza Calgary’s outdoor food festival celebrates international foods and beverages, with restaurants serving up sample-size menu items at samplesized pricing. tasteofcalgary.com
Expo Latino
August 22-24, Prince’s Island Park Western Canada’s largest Latin festival features art, culture, music, dancing, great food and a beer garden. expolatino.com
Carifest
July 20, Kensington Try different salsas throughout Kensington while enjoying the live entertainment and patios. visitkensington.com
Chinatown Street Festival
August 9, Chinatown Featuring food and culture amidst an array of entertainment. calgarychinesemerchants.org
August 23, Shaw Millennium Park A parade downtown leads right to the sights, sounds and smells of the Caribbean at Shaw Millennium Park. carifestcalgary.com
Calgary Folk Festival
Marda Gras Street Festival
Japanese Festival
July 24-27, Prince’s Island Park The island becomes a village for four days with much more than music. Look for a great assortment of cuisines. calgaryfolkfest.com
August 10, Marda Loop Marda Loop will be buzzing with entertainment, vendors and food! mardaloopbrz.com
Globalfest
August 11-23, Elliston Park More than a fireworks competition, the One World Festival features ethnic food and drink booths, and over two dozen cultural pavilions. globalfest.ca
Calgary International Reggae Festival Calgary Folk Festival
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August 14-16, Main festival at Shaw Millennium Park
August 23 Bowness Community Centre The 4th year for this festival of Japanese cultural activities, music, dance, food and merchandise. calgaryjapanesefestival.com
BBQ On The Bow
August 29-31, Eau Claire Market Canada’s oldest BBQ competition and home of the Alberta BBQ Championships. See vendors, art groups, live music, and Alberta chicken, duck, pork, beef, and turkey producers handing out recipe cards. bbqonthebow.com
Book Reviews
by KAREN MILLER
The SoBo Cookbook
by Lisa Ahier Appetite by Random House $29.95 Even if you never try any of the recipes in this cookbook, you will want to. The photographs of the food with the sea and the forests of Clayoquot Sound as background are stunning! Luckily the recipes are as amazing as they look. Ahier and her husband have worked across North America but settled in a purple truck parked behind a surf shop, serving surfers coming out of the cold water of the sound. The recipes are a log of Ahier’s travels and show her devotion to, and her pride in, cooking. Word spread quickly and the truck became famous with locals and visitors alike. It’s now a restaurant but still serves the enduring food
they became known for: creative and inspirational, local and seasonal. Lots of seafood naturally (I am hooked on the Smoked Salmon and Tuna bacons), but she did spend time in Texas so there is beef. Ahier has long supported the dedicated producers, farmers and foragers nearby, so there is no lack of great ingredients to work with. Some recipes show their food truck origins, but others have evolved for the restaurant. If I was going for one cookbook this summer - this would be it, and I would make all the recipes, imagining the surf crashing against the rocks on the beach. Even better with a SoBo Margarita!
White Port
Splash 3 Parts Taylor Fladgate White Port or Fonseca White Port 5 Parts Tonic Water Mint Leaves Twist of Lime to Garnish Fill highball glass with ice, mix in White Port and Tonic, top with mint leaf and garnish with lime twist. A refreshing summer cocktail!
Proudly Represented by Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc. Follow us on Twitter @ABPWS | pacificwineandspirits.com PRODUCT LOCATOR liquorconnect.com/164129
Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.
Ask Culinaire by TOM FIRTH
Can you help with a couple of questions for storing wine?
Is it okay to store wine in the kitchen? I used to feel pretty strongly that no, it’s not ok to store wine in the kitchen; the extra heat, the vibrations, and often the bright sunlight would play havoc with your wine. Sure, the wine fridge is a near staple for wine lovers, but we are talking about leaving bottles on the counter or on their sides in a wine rack. Corks these days are about as high tech as a piece of bark can be A few years ago, I put it to the test and bought six identical bottles from the same store (a well-known producer, and each bottle was the same vintage and grape) and subjected each of them to a different wine storage faux-pas. One wine stood for six weeks on the windowsill, another spent its time on top of the fridge, one spent some time in the freezer, and the last bottle spent a toasty warm long weekend rattling around in the trunk of my car. With properly stored control bottles for experimental diligence, and four blind 10
tasters who only knew that some of the wines may be slightly altered, we found that the difference between bottles was negligible - if any. In general, wine can be stored in the kitchen for the short term without any adverse effects. Today, wine is quite stable, and the tinted glass of most bottles is very good at blocking UV light that can damage wine. However, if you are planning long-term storage, you’ll be better off storing your wine in a cool, dark place where it can rest undisturbed while it matures.
Can wine be stored standing up? Look at almost any cellar around the world and you’ll see wine bottles resting on their sides rather than standing upright. It’s true, wine does keep better lying down where the wine keeps the cork damp, forming a better seal from the environment outside the bottle. Cork, as it gets older becomes brittle, shrinks a little, and eventually deteriorates so that it no longer plugs the bottle. But those days are past, corks these days are about as high tech as a piece
For long-term storage, you’ll be better off storing your wine in a cool, dark place of bark can be. They are often slightly waxed allowing them to be inserted and removed with ease - with the added bonus of resisting dry conditions or brittleness. Technical corks, such as those made from granulated cork pieces, contain a food grade “glue” holding it all together - also increasing the longevity of the cork. Many corksealed wines won’t have any adverse response to standing up for even a year or two. Lastly, the humble screw cap, which now appears on both inexpensive and expensive bottles, white and red, new world and old, is a closure perfectly good for immediate drinking and mid to longterm cellaring. These wines can rest on their sides, but are equally at home standing upright prior to opening or gathering dust in the cellar. In my cellar, space is at a premium, and I have no problem keeping some screw cap sealed wines on the countertop or standing on a shelf.
Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON
People that don’t like ‘cold soup’ (also known as gazpacho) have likely just never had a delicious one. There are few things as refreshing as a well-made gazpacho on a hot day, especially when there’s a little kick of heat and a touch of cooling cream to round out the spoonful. Roasted Poblano Pepper and Tomato Gazpacho Serves 5-6 Total prep time 25 minutes
Gazpacho: 2 poblano peppers, halved, seeds removed 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 4 ripe, large tomatoes, diced (approx 5 cups) 1 cucumber, peeled and 2 cm cubed 1 lemon, zested and juiced ½ cup (120 mL) water ¼ cup (60 mL) good quality vodka 1 Tbs (15 mL) liquid honey 1 Tbs (15 mL) red wine vinegar 1 tsp chilli flakes ½ tsp pink peppercorns ½ tsp cayenne pepper 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil To taste salt and pepper
There are few things as refreshing as a well-made gazpacho on a hot day Cilantro Cream: 1 cup (240 mL) heavy cream ¼ cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped 1 tsp salt 1 tsp ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 400º F
1. Place peppers onto a baking sheet, drizzle with oil and let roast for 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place all remaining
ingredients except olive oil into a large blender and puree on high until very smooth, approx 2 minutes.
3. Remove peppers from oven and let cool slightly before adding to blender. Puree again for 1 minute while slowly adding in the olive oil.
4. Season to taste and keep cold in refrigerator until ready to serve.
5. For the cilantro cream, whip cream until it holds soft peaks, then fold in chopped cilantro and spices.
To serve, pour gazpacho into bowls and garnish with a dollop of cilantro cream.
Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside 11
Billingsgate Seafood Restaurant and Market
North Sea Fish Market – Willow Park
All The Fish In The “C” by LAURA LUSHINGTON Photography by INGRID KUENZEL
For a city with no oceans in sight, Calgarians sure have an appetite for seafood. In both the North and South of the city, two seafood markets are making big splashes with their dedication to quality products and exceptional service. Billingsgate Seafood Restaurant & Market For over 100 years, Billingsgate Seafood Restaurant and Market has been a go-to place for fresh fish and seafood in Calgary. Started in 1907 by Bert Malthouse, who came to Canada to work on the railroad, Billingsgate originated as a horse and cart operation where fish were sold on blocks of ice. Fast-forward to 2014 and after Billingsgate Seafood Restaurant and Market
relocating to the Stadium Shopping Centre, northwest Calgary, in 2006, Billingsgate is experiencing a resurgence of new and old customers, or what they affectionately call “first-timers and lifers.” “Billingsgate was a household name with my parents’ and grandparents’ generations,” says Luke Fallwell, great, great grandson of Malthouse and Billingsgate’s vice president and chief operations officer, “Everyone knew Billingsgate and everyone knew where it was.” “When I came into this, our customer base was still this faithful following, but with this being a fifth-generation family company and knowing how supportive the Calgary community is, we knew there was room for us in a newer demographic.” Reaching out to first-timers, Fallwell led Billingsgate’s rebranding and
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development of a social media presence to connect with younger generations of Calgarians. He also contacted other local businesses, such as Village Brewery, to bring their products into the restaurant. Most recently they participated in YYC Burger Week, taking second place in the $10 category for their Samurai Ahi Tuna burger. While more Calgarians have been discovering, or rediscovering, Billingsgate, they have also kept their focus on what they do best – fresh fish and seafood. They are now Ocean Wise certified too, a designation that was really important to the company, says Fallwell. “In today’s world, people are more conscious than ever about what they’re eating, so we want to take as much uncertainty out of the customer’s mind as possible,” he says. Fresh fish and seafood are brought in daily from around the world including pickerel from Lake Winnipeg, wild shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico and halibut from Alaska. While Billingsgate has undergone many updates in recent years, some things have stayed the same. Billingsgate’s flagship dish, Great Grandpa Bertie’s secret recipe for fish & chips, and Great Grandma Marg’s clam chowder and lobster bisque are still served in the restaurant. “We’ve been doing it since 1907,” says Fallwell. “There’s a reason we’re still in business.”
While you’re at the Stampede this year, head to The Range in the Big Four Building to taste Billingsgate’s classic fish & chips. This will be Billingsgate’s 50th year at the Stampede! Billingsgate is now Ocean Wise certified too, a really important designation to the company
North Sea Fish Market – Willow Park
North Sea Fish Market – Willow Park
North Sea Fish Market – Willow Park When Su Jin Kwon bought North Sea Fish Market, Willow Park Village, in January 2012, she was already a familiar face behind the market’s counters. First hired to work at North Sea Fish Market by former owner Brian Plunkett after graduating from SAIT’s culinary program in 2002, Kwon had become known for her friendly demeanor and expertise in fileting fish. After a stint at another fish market, becoming an owner herself was simply the next natural step. “I had been working in fish markets for over eight years and I was always interested in having my own store,” she says. “I knew how to cut fish and I had worked at the front of stores too.” This well-rounded approach, founded by her upbringing in a big family in South Korea, has led Kwon to success. Out of demand for another location, Kwon, along with her brother Hyok Jong Kwon, opened a booth at the Symons Valley Ranch Farmers’ Market this spring. “People were really excited to have good quality fish at the market,” she says. “Every week we keep hearing positive reviews and customers come back wanting to buy more. It makes me really happy and helps me see our growth possibilities.” At the Willow Park Village location, Kwon and her fiancé Dan Nelson see many regular customers who Kwon says
love their caring and welcoming service along with their products. “Everyone knows me and I know them, it’s like a family,” says Kwon. When searching for fish to feed her “family”, Kwon says she first looks to what local and Ocean Wise-friendly fish are available, paying close attention to the time of year. “It’s very important to have seasonal products,” she says. “You don’t want to be looking for fresh, wild fish in the wintertime because it’s not available. When you have the chance to buy fresh and wild, you should!” In addition to high-quality fresh fish and seafood, North Sea makes a variety of prepared foods, including skewers ready for the barbecue. Watch facebook.com/NorthSeaWillowpark for the day’s freshest fish and delicious eats. “Everyone knows me and I know them, it’s like a family” Billingsgate is located at 1941 Uxbridge Drive NW, Calgary 403-269-3474 billingsgatemkt.com North Sea Fish Market Willow Park is located at 300-10816 Macleod Trail SE, Calgary, 403-225-3460 sufishmarket.com Laura Lushington is Culinaire Magazine’s digital media editor. She is a graduate of Mount Royal University’s Journalism program. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @LauraLushington 13
Chefs' Tips Living in landlocked Alberta, seafood is not always top of mind when you’re planning what to cook for dinner. Here are a few great tips from two Calgary chefs that cover finding fresh seafood and - most importantly cooking it properly, because it’s ok to leave our beautiful Alberta beef on the shelf every now and again.
clams, prawns, scallops, lobster, crab, calamari and whatever fish is freshest (these days it is wild salmon and halibut). When asked how to replicate the impressive crowd-pleaser at home, Chef Chan says that using plenty of different cooking methods is key. You can steam the clams and mussels, sear the scallops, poach the lobster and grill the fish all at the same time. That way you don’t end up with mussels that are raw and unopened while your shrimp have turned to rubber. Be sure to save all the sauces and broths from
Tricks! story by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL and MALLORY FRAYN
cooking the seafood too, as they are packed with as much, if not more, concentrated flavour than the fish itself. Chan suggests tossing the leftover liquids with pasta to make yet another meal out of it. The tips to preparing and cooking seafood are about as endless as the varieties to choose from.
Chef Jenny Chan, Vero Bistro Chef Chan has travelled across the globe, and nowhere is that more apparent than on her restaurant menu. Originally from Hong Kong, Chan learned from a very early age how important it is to not to overcook fish. She prefers to cook it to about 60% done and then allows carryover cooking to finish it. That way it is perfectly cooked by the time it gets to the table. At Vero Bistro they have a signature salmon dish that is pan seared on the skin side only and then finished in the oven, so that the top steams while the bottom remains nice and crispy. It also helps the delicate fish retain its integrity, as you are not flipping it. Vero are also known for their seafood tower - a massive array of mussels,
Vero Bistro’s Venetian Seafood Stew
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Chef Jenny Chan, Vero Bistro
Vero Bistro’s Venetian Seafood Stew Serves 6
3 celery stalks, chopped 2 large carrots, chopped 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 2 bay leaves 3/4 jar Passata tomato puree 1 can diced tomatoes 1 cup (240 mL) white wine 1 Kg clams 450 g shrimp 675 g halibut 450 g crab legs 1 Kg mussels A pinch of chilli flakes To taste salt and pepper Chopped parsley, to garnish 6 slices of toasted baguette
Chan is constantly sharing her knowledge with her customers, teaching them to strain scallops overnight to rid them of excess moisture and ensure that a golden crust develops when you sear them, or soak calamari in buttermilk to tenderize it prior to frying. When it comes to her Venetian Seafood Stew, chock full of clams, mussels, crab legs and a massive lobster claw, she is adamant that everything is as close to the same size as possible so that it cooks evenly. After all, if there is one thing that both of these chefs preach; don’t ruin quality – and expensive – seafood by overcooking it.
fish, look for “clear eyes and bright gills” says Moore. Fillets are a bit trickier, but they should still be firm, have substance to them and not be slimy. Let’s face it; there are very few ingredients that are “slimy” and “pleasant” at the same time. As for the type of seafood, Moore opts for pickerel or lake trout, as they are caught closer to Calgary and are typically fresher than ocean-fished varieties. If you get your hands on a whole trout, try stuffing it with aromatics such as
15 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent and softened.
2. Add the Passata tomato puree,
diced tomatoes and wine, and simmer for another 20 minutes. Add clams and simmer 3 - 4 minutes.
3. Add remaining seafood, plus a pinch of chilli flakes, then simmer for 5 - 6 minutes more.
4. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped parsley and toasted baguette to soak up all of the broth.
lemon and herbs, tying it up, seasoning it with salt and olive oil, and cooking it on the barbeque. Just make sure that your grill is clean, and most importantly, Moore emphasizes to leave the fish until it is cooked, otherwise it will stick! It will let you know that it is ready to flip when it naturally starts to lift away from the grill. It’s ok to leave our beautiful Alberta beef on the shelf every now and again At Ox and Angela they do a similar stuffed fish presentation, using sardines instead of trout. Chef Moore describes sardines as “stronger in flavour – as in actually having flavour” when compared with some other types of fish. “Not to mention they are quite inexpensive, so even if you try them and don’t like them, you are hardly out any money.”
Chef Andrew Moore, Ox and Angela Ask any chef about procuring quality fish and there is a good chance their answer will be, “Use whatever is fresh!” However, that is easier said than done if you have no idea what “fresh” looks like. Chef Moore suggests starting as close to the source as possible by heading to a fishmonger or farmer’s market, and has a couple of key points to be on the lookout for. First of all, seafood should smell fresh, without the presence of any stinky, fishy odours. When buying whole
1. Sauté the first five ingredients for
Either way, summer is the perfect time to fire up the barbeque and do some taste testing!
Chef Andrew Moore, Ox and Angela
Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, Alberta. Check out her blog and blogger becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat
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Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Let Go Of The Old WaysPotting Fish story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY
Convenience: looking for an easier way, a quicker way to produce something amazing? Look to the past for ingenious ways of getting exactly that. Traditional techniques, when applied to modern lifestyles, produce results that are worth the effort. Convenience foods of times past meant preserving, and preserving means doing the work ahead of time so the resultant product is available to you lickety-split so keep calm and pot on! Potting describes the process of sealing meat, fish or cheese with a layer of fat that keeps out air and other agents that would cause the product to spoil quickly. Dating back to before refrigeration, potting is a traditional technique of preserving, and is a delicious way to enhance lunches, make quick dinners, or prep-ahead appetizers for a party. 16
The process of potting is simple. Most important are fresh, high quality ingredients and a gentle hand at combining the ingredients to make sure of the right combination of ingredients to fat. Nowadays, refrigeration means that we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to layer a coating of fat on the mixture, but why break with such a tasty tradition. These pots can easily last a week or two in the fridge if you can resist delving into the rich deliciousness. They make an easy lunch or dinner with grilled, crusty bread and a side of greens; add a glass of wine to make it special and it will seem like you put much more work in than you actually did. Potting can produce great
appetizers for a dinner party, as they can be made well in advance. A quick pickling of red onions as a side helps balance out the richness of this dish. Here is a delicious salmon-based recipe to get you started with pots that are buttery, rich, with fork-tender fish and complementary seasonings. The fish can be gently flaked for a chunkier, more rustic presentation and texture, or stirred together for a silky, smooth mouth-feel. Experiment and create your own seafood choices and seasoning combinations to suit your palate. The jars can be made up to a week in advance and stored in the fridge.
Potted Salmon
Makes 2 dinner size portions 250 g Ocean Wise salmon, skinned, dark flesh removed 200 g unsalted butter 10 whole peppercorns 3 sprigs fresh dill 5 sprigs fresh thyme 2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 30 g capers, roughly chopped 3 g fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped 5 g fresh dill, finely chopped 1 lemon, zested 2 tsp (10 mL) Pernod 1 Tbs (15 mL) white wine vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lemon juice To taste sea salt and pepper
1. Wash and dry the fish. Trim and
discard skin and any dark flesh. Slice the fish into 5cm pieces.
2. Place butter in a small pot over
medium heat. Melt, and once foam starts to rise to the top, gently scoop it off until little foam remains. You can use as is or strain through cheesecloth to remove the remaining foam and impurities. Now you have clarified butter.
3. Add the salmon, dill sprigs, thyme
sprigs and peppercorns to the clarified butter and gently poach the fish until just cooked, about 8 to 10 minutes depending on thickness. Remove the fish and place in a medium bowl.
These pots can easily last a week or two in the fridge if you can resist delving into the rich deliciousness
4. Add the shallots to the pot and
cook stirring occasionally for 2 minutes. Season with sea salt and cook another 5 minutes until they have softened but not browned. Remove from heat. Remove dill, thyme and peppercorns.
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5. Break the fish into large pieces. Add
the remaining ingredients and stir to combine depending on the texture you prefer. Adjust the amount of clarified butter to your liking and reserve some to cover the pots. Taste, and season with salt and pepper.
6. Spoon into small, sterilized glass jars
and smooth the top. Place in the fridge for about 1 hour to chill. Remove jars from the fridge and pour the butter over the fish to 1 cm thick, cover and return to fridge to set. Serving You can enjoy your potted fish warm or cold. You can also add the pot to a dish of pasta, rice or quinoa, or on top of a plate of greens for another quick and delicious meal.
Quick Pickled Red Onion In a small saucepan add ž cup (175 mL) white wine vinegar with 115 g of sugar and bring to a boil. Peel and thinly slice a red onion. Place sliced onion in a small jar and pour over the vinegar. Add 10 whole peppercorns and cool approximately 3 hours or in the fridge overnight.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custommade cakes.
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Canada’s West Coast Salmon by MIMI HORITA
A sense of anticipation hangs thick in the air of a bustling historic fishing village nestled in the southeastern corner of Richmond, B.C. “The Salmon Capital of the World” was home to no less than 15 canneries lining the banks of the Fraser River in Steveston, including the Gulf of Georgia Cannery, the “Monster Cannery”, this year celebrating their 120th anniversary and 20 years as a museum commemorating Canada’s West
Coast fishing industry, a Parks Canada National Historic Site. 2014 is also a dominant year for the four-year cycle Sockeye run, when millions of Sockeye salmon are expected to return to the Fraser River, possibly in record numbers.
While Sockeye is the most economically important salmon, there are five types of indigenous salmon: Chinook, Coho, Chum, Pink and Sockeye. Let’s take a look at the differences between them and how to cook them to show them off at their best.
Sockeye salmon, caught July to September, has a high fat content, deep red firm flesh and equally rich flavour, so it’s best for ‘less is more’ methods of preparation, to allow its rich colour and flavour to stand out. When grilling, baking or broiling sockeye, a guideline is to cook for 10 minutes per inch thickness at its thickest part. Chinook, or King Salmon is the largest salmon found in the area. It is the first species to return to our waters in the season (April to September) so is also known as “Spring Salmon”. Its flesh ranges from pale white to rich red. Most people prefer to buy their Chinook fresh rather than smoked or canned, to make the most of its naturally rich flavour. The simplest way to prepare fresh Chinook is to grill it, taking advantage of its moist, firm flesh. Chum is caught later in the season (July to November) and its flesh is creamy pink to medium red. With a low fat content and milder flavour, it’s best cooked with moisture (such as poaching or steaming) or marinated before grilling. Chum is also known to produce the tastiest salmon roe. 18
Coho salmon, or Silver salmon, caught June to October, has a reddish-orange firm flesh, and is known for its finer texture. With a mid-range fat content, Coho can be grilled or broiled, but is also ideal for slower, gentle cooking methods, such as poaching or sautéing.
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Pink salmon is the smallest and most abundant species, caught July to September and, as its name hints, has lighter coloured flesh, and a milder flavour. Recently, many west coast chefs have worked hard to elevate the Pink salmon’s status, as it’s a sustainable, affordable choice that often doesn’t receive the respect it deserves. Pink
salmon doesn’t keep fresh as long as the other types (2 to 3 days), so it may be best to purchase it frozen. Due to its low fat content, it is important to keep the salmon moist while cooking. Simply baste the fish often while cooking or lightly grilling, and serve with a sauce such as tartar or a fruit salsa.
DURABLE CLEAN DETAILS
Mimi Horita is the Marketing and Visitor Services Manager for the non-profit Gulf of Georgia Cannery Society, which operates the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site on behalf of Parks Canada. In front of the Gulf of Georgia Cannery
Cannery from the harbour
Steveston, once nicknamed “Salmonopolis”, is a thirty minute drive from Vancouver, and is known for its historic sites, great selection of restaurants and fresh seafood that can be bought straight from the fishing boats docked at Fisherman’s Wharf. When the Sockeye return this summer, as they did during the last dominant run in 2010, hundreds of visitors are expected to flock to Steveston to stock up on fresh salmon as fast as the boats can load them in. The Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site is celebrating salmon and other sustainable seafood at “Best
Catch” Sustainable Seafood Festival, on Sunday September 14. Local chefs and seafood suppliers are demonstrating best practices for fishing and seafood production to maintain a sustainable, healthy food source for generations to come. To commemorate the double 120th/20th anniversary of the site, on weekends throughout July and August, the Cannery is offering Salmon Taste Tests where you can compare different types of canned salmon; and Fish Tales, with demos and discussions by local fishermen.
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Gulf of Georgia Cannery is at 12138 Fourth Avenue at Moncton, Steveston Village, Richmond 604-664-9009, gulfofgeorgiacannery.com. Open daily, year round 10am-5pm, Adults $7.80, 6-16 years $3.90, Under 6 Free.
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Step By Step:
Lobster
by RENEE KOHLMAN
Cooking lobster is seemingly intimidating, to say the least - all of those claws and tentacles and beady eyeballs flailing about because it is alive, after all. Putting a living creature into a pot of boiling water isn’t for everyone, but I’m here to tell you that it really isn’t all that difficult to cook and extract that succulent, sweet meat. All you need is a rather large pot and a bit of gumption! So, shall we? When you’re purchasing your crustaceans, smaller lobsters tend to be sweeter, so don’t think that bigger is always better. Contrary to what you may have heard, they don’t scream when they hit the pot. Smaller lobsters tend to be sweeter, so don’t think that bigger is always better
Cooking lobster
2-4 lobsters, 675 g each
1. Fill a very large (16 Litre) stockpot
three-quarters full with cold water. Bring to a rolling boil and add ½ cup of coarse or sea salt. You can either be brave and snip off the rubber bands while you hold it (this is if you don’t like boiling plastic) or leave them on and plunge lobsters head first into the boiling water.
2. Cook, uncovered for 12-14 minutes, from the time the lobsters go into the pot.
3. Remove lobster from pot with
tongs. Plunge into sink filled with cold 20
water. Let cool completely, about 15 minutes. If rubber bands are still on, snip them off.
Extracting the meat Lobster can be pretty pokey, and it is a good idea to use plastic gloves while extracting the meat.
1. Twist tails from body. Twist claws with their knuckles from body.
2. Working with tail first, put it on a
cutting board and press down on it hard with both hands. This will crack the shell. Using both hands, pull off tail fins. Bend tail backwards to crack off the end of the shell. Pull the meat out.
3. Separate knuckles from claws by
grasping “thumb” and bending it back to snap it off. Remove knuckle meat with long, narrow fork.
4. Crack claw in half using a very sharp chef’s knife. Remove meat.
Once all meat is extracted, rinse under cool water, and proceed with the following recipes. Save the shells for lobster bisque.
Citrus Lobster Salad with Bacon & Hazelnuts in Camelina Oil Vinaigrette
Serves 4 as a starter or 2 for an entrée
Lobster and citrus are the best of friends, and this salad is perfect for those screaming hot summer days, when all you want to do is sit in the shade and relax with friends. Pea shoots and edible flowers really do bring the pretty factor to the salad, and are well worth the addition. Check your local farmer’s market for their selection. Camelina oil is light, nutty, earthy and good for you. If unable to find it, substitute some cold-pressed canola or extra virgin olive oil. 8 cups fresh spring greens 1 large navel orange, segmented 1 large Ruby Red grapefruit, segmented ½ cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted 4 slices bacon, cooked and chopped ¼ cup fresh dill ½ cup pea sprouts or shoots Handful edible flowers such as viola 300 g cooked lobster meat, sliced
Vinaigrette
3 Tbs (45 mL) Camelina oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) honey To taste salt and pepper
Divide greens onto plates. Top with citrus segments, hazelnuts, bacon, dill, pea shoots and flowers. Arrange lobster slices on top and drizzle with vinaigrette. Citrus Lobster Salad
Creamy Lemon & Tarragon Lobster Dip
Creamy Lemon & Tarragon Lobster Dip Makes 2 cups.
This is a great little recipe to have in your back pocket, and makes use of the smaller chunks of claw and knuckle meat. I like making it a day ahead, giving the flavours a chance to marry. Try this recipe with crabmeat too!
2
x
1 small onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil 1 tsp dried tarragon or 1 Tbs fresh 1 tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 250 g cream cheese, softened at room temperature ½ cup (120 mL) sour cream 1 lemon, juice and zest 2 tsp (10 mL) Sriracha ½ cup fresh parsley, roughly chopped ¼ cup fresh chives, roughly chopped 250 g cooked lobster meat, roughly chopped
1. In a small pan, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until golden. Stir in tarragon, pinches of salt and pepper. Cook 1 minute. Let cool.
2. Place the onion mixture in the bowl
of a food processor along with all other ingredients except lobster. Process until smooth. Add lobster and process until smooth, yet with a few chunks.
3. Adjust seasonings. Scoop into
serving dish. Refrigerate at least 3 hours before serving. Garnish with lemon and chives. Serve with assorted fresh vegetables and crostini. Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.ca.
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The Art Of Toasting Marshmallows by JOCELYN BURGENER
Whether a backyard fire pit or a provincial campground, after warmth and light, campfires are all about toasting marshmallows.
While many a Boy Scout and Girl Guide have earned their campfire badge stacking logs, arranging kindling, and successfully starting a fire, the real personal best test is to be able to toast a marshmallow to perfection. Many a summer’s evening has been spent sitting around the campfire, watching as burning logs turn to glowing embers, and waiting for that moment, even as the sun disappears below the horizon, to test their skill in the quintessential art of toasting a marshmallow.
Implements Depending on your resources and preferences, you may have some old wire coat hangers. With a few firm twists of the wrist, coat hangers become efficient, and reusable implements. They can easily handle up to six marshmallows at a time, with little chance of one falling into the fire. A package of wooden skewers used for barbequing kabobs, or a wiener-roasting fork, will suffice when cooking over an outdoor grill. However, traditionalists will always prefer a neatly whittled tree branch, preferably a sapling with a little bounce, enabling the marshmallow to bob and weave in the flames.
Hovering Method More important than the implement, is the method of cooking. The method of hovering the marshmallow six to eight inches over the embers and rotating slowly and evenly is recommended for the connoisseur who prefers an even, all-over golden brown with a firm, but 22
not too crisp, external skin and a warm, gooey, suck-it-off-in-layers centre.
Torch Method Certainly in the minority is the “torch” method. A quick canvass of discerning marshmallow connoisseurs provided thirteen responses to the question of the preferred method of toasting. Nine were in favour of the slow rotation and four preferred to ignite the entire marshmallow by placing it directly into the flame. After warmth and light, campfires are all about toasting marshmallows Once the flaming marshmallow has burnt itself out, the first layer can be swallowed whole. The process is repeated by igniting the second layer. Extra large marshmallows are recommended for the Torch method.
Practice Makes Perfect Marshmallows have no nutritional value and over 300 calories per 100 grams. One bag usually contains 50 large marshmallows. When you do the math, it’s hard to support consuming 15,000 calories in one session. However if you need justification, gather friends around the campfire, add a guitar and a little Kumbaya, and share the calories while you perfect the art of toasting marshmallows. A former MLA, Jocelyn was Director of Public Affairs for the Calgary Chamber of Commerce and ran her own consulting business. She finds clarity in chaos and humour in everyday life.
Catch Restaurant & Oyster Bar: Growing And Harvesting Pearls Of Culinary Talent Over The Years by DAN CLAPSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“The technical proficiency of the kitchen ranges from excellent to superb and the overall experience is rounding into form. Catch is like a talented rookie with enough initial brilliance to indicate that superstardom is not far off.” - John Gilchrist, January 2003, on Catch Restaurant and Oyster Bar after opening in late 2002.
Looking back now, this quote from our city’s food critic in the early 2000s is surprisingly accurate. Back then, Catch was a ground-breaking restaurant concept for a land-locked city. Seafood, front and centre, prepared with a refinement all its own that set itself apart from the steak-driven establishments that ruled the scene.
his other successful ventures, he worked closely with a group of young chefs who at that time were not much more than eager twenty-somethings. An eclectic group of individuals, just looking for an opportunity to showcase their skills and better themselves in hopes of climbing the kitchen ladder to a successful lifelong career.
With Michael Noble fresh off his appearance on Iron Chef (the original series, not the tacky American variation) and national recognition, Calgary was all abuzz, watching to see how the chef and the restaurant would fair this far from the sea.
By now, hundreds of employees (both back of house and front) have come and gone from this popular restaurant on Stephen Avenue. Clearly a breeding ground (in one case literally!) for talent in the city’s culinary scene, there is no doubt that Catch is an amazing example of chef mentoring done right.
The most rewarding thing for a mentor in any field is seeing your pupils succeed. Though Michael Noble only headed up the kitchen here for the first 3½ years of operation before pursuing
Though the faces in the dining room and behind the line have changed and, like most restaurants, will continue to do so, Catch still remains as one of Calgary’s
top restaurants almost 12 years later. With an ever-growing staff legacy, it will be very interesting to see what another decade or so will bring for the current crop who are just getting a taste of what it’s like to work in a top notch establishment in the food industry. From executive chefs and restaurateurs to sommeliers and one very charming Top Chef Canada contender, here are ten Catch alumni whose stars have shone brighter and brighter since their time at the seafood establishment. Your chance to win an oyster shucking lesson with Chef Kyle Groves and lunch for two at Catch! Yes, you could be the very lucky winner of an oyster shucking lesson for two at Catch, followed by lunch! To win, simply go to culinairemagazine.ca and tell us about your most memorable experience with seafood. Where were you? Who were you with? Why was it so memorable? The submission that we like the best will win this great prize! Good luck, we can’t wait to hear from you!
Michael Noble
(pre-opening 2001-2005) Position: Executive Chef Current position: Chef/Owner, Notable and The Nash (opening fall, 2014) How did you lead the kitchen when the restaurant opened? “I was extremely driven, I honestly believed that perfection was possible and I was in that never-ending search for it. This made me a bit of a mother-f**!**r I guess especially when my rather pronounced ego and absolute fear of failure compounded that ~ I wore the tall hat so became known as “Shark” because I’d flow through the kitchens as if I had a shark fin going on. True story. All that being said, I had a lot of respect for everyone who was part of the team and still do to this day.”
Kyle Groves
Duncan Ly
(2002-2004) Positions: Chef de partie, first cook, banquets kitchen, pastry, dining room Current position: Executive Chef (2002-2004) Positions: Entremetier, saucier, dining room chef Current position: Executive Chef, Hotel Arts group Fondest memory of your time at the restaurant? “We would be cranking the tunes every Saturday morning in the dining room at Catch while we did our weekly scrub down of the kitchen, and Garth Brown - who was at the time the general manager of The Siding Café then - delivered us breakfast and coffee! But, the best thing to come out of Catch for me was meeting my wonderful wife, Wanda!”
(2005-2006, 2009-present) Positions: garde manger, entremetier, saucier, sous chef, oyster bar chef, restaurant chef and executive chef Current position: Executive Chef, Catch Restaurant and Oyster Bar Most satisfying thing about running the kitchen at Catch? “I think that it would be whenever I see someone leave the restaurant and take their next step towards having an incredible career... For myself, the best memories will always involve the relationships that I have made working here with incredible young cooks, dishwashers that are like family, and friends that I will keep for a lifetime.”
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Matt Batey
Most memorable moment from your time at Catch? “I remember standing inside what is now the Oyster Bar space with Chef Noble and looking at the blank canvas that the four bare walls and open concrete space were, and being so excited to be a part of what proved to be a magical place. Not many people got the opportunity to see the project all the way through like I did.”
Ian Blaney
(2005-2014) Positions: Server, supervisor, manager, assistant general manager, general manager Current position: Wine expert A fellow Catch alumnus who’s had the most success in your eyes? “I would say Duncan Ly. However, I never really had the chance to work with him. I think who will have the most success postcareer with the restaurant will be the current executive chef, Kyle Groves. I know there will be big things happening for him in his future and I wish him all the best.”
Justin Labossiere
Geoff Gobert (2003-2005) Postions: Oyster bar garde manger, oyster bar saucier, dining room tournant, entremetier, saucier Current position: Executive Chef, Notable Who inspired you the most in the kitchen? “After Michael Noble left Catch in 2005, I looked up to Nicole Gomes the most. I loved her cooking style, her “get shit done” approach, her wealth of knowledge and, quite frankly, just who she is as a person!”
Nicole Gomes
Wanda Ly
Photograph courtesy Phil Crozier
(2002-2005) Positions: Tournant, entremetier, saucier, sous chef Current Position: Owner, Nicole Gourmet Catering What was a young Chef Nicole Gomes like? I was fiery! Bossy and determined. Loved my job and still do! Loved line cooking and all the stresses, yelling and pressure of a loaded service...I miss it terribly. I have definitely calmed down over the years. If you want some really good stories about me, ask Duncan!”
(2002-2006) Positions: garde manger, entremetier, saucier, oyster bar chef Current position: Executive Chef, Winsport What would the kitchen get up to when service was done for the night? “I would say 3 words could sum it up: “U and Me” - best late night Chinese! We worked hard and played hard! I loved my cooking family and they will always be family to me.”
(2002-2006) Positions: Busser, waiter, event manager Current position: General Manager, Wurst What did you learn about a career in the culinary world while working at Catch? “I was fairly naive about the industry coming out of SAIT but was ripe for learning and was trained by some of the best who took me under their wing for everything including wine tasting, fine dining service and food knowledge. I was lucky to be around so many talented and hard working people at such a special time in the Calgary restaurant scene.”
Hayato Okamitsu (2002-2010) Positions: Oyster bar saucier, oyster bar chef, dining room chef, executive chef Current position: Chef instructor, SAIT Culinary Program Who had the biggest effect on your career as a chef? “Chef Michael Noble. He is the reason I moved to Calgary from Vancouver. He took me on as a
cook when I arrived in Canada with very little English skills back in 1999 in Vancouver at Diva At The Met. Since then he has given me the opportunity to grow, and taught me so much of what I know now about cooking. It was very sad that I could only work under him for 5 years, but it was an amazing experience. If I didn’t meet Michael Noble, my life would be totally different.” 25
SAVA N N A DRY, M EET C A N A DA . C A N A DA , M EET YOU R N E W FAVOU RITE PREM I U M CIDER .
Savanna Dry is instantly recognizable for its iconic short bottle — a standout amongst the traditionally used can format within the cider category. Light golden in colour and medium to light in body, Savanna Dry boasts a crisp, slightly tart taste with aromas of fresh apples and hints of citrus on the nose.
Just in time for the lazy days of summer, popular South African brand Savanna Dry Premium Cider makes its long awaited debut to select markets across Canada. Widely recognized for its distinctively dry and satisfying taste, this crowd pleaser is perfectly suited for any occasion. As the brand likes to say: It’s Dry, But You Can Drink It.
A premium-crafted product from its very inception, the juice of only the finest crushed apples is triple-filtered and double-chilled to create this sublime and 100% clear cider. For a truly authentic experience, enjoy this cider the South African way; ice cold, in the bottle. Be sure to include the requisite slice of lemon in the
Since its debut in 1996, Savanna Dry has grown to become the world’s
neck. A Savanna without a lemon is like a leopard without spots.
third highest-selling cider, distributed in over 60 countries across the globe. A bold brand proudly doing things differently since its beginnings,
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N EW Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. | www.pmacanada.com
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Ways to Spice Up
S’Mores by LAURA LUSHINGTON
Every summer I get cravings for campfires and s’mores. The ritual of trying to cook your marshmallow to perfection and then licking your fingers to get all the last bits equals pure summertime bliss. While your campground neighbours might be building their s’mores with the basics, here are eight ways to upgrade this simple campfire dessert. I want s’more!
1. Switch in your favourites The possibilities are endless when you think of all the types of cookies you can use to squish your s’more together, or the types of chocolate that can ooze out. Use your favourite guilty pleasures and add them to your s’mores. Try: • Peanut butter cups • Peppermint patties • Chocolate chip cookies • Ginger cookies
2. The peanut butter and jelly s’more
For those who don’t like chocolate, but want something sweet, try making a peanut butter and jelly s’more. Spread peanut butter onto one graham cracker and your favourite jam or jelly onto the other. Place the warm marshmallow in between. Simply delicious! 28
4. Be fruitful
7. The savoury s’more
Take advantage of juicy summer fruits and add them into your s’mores. Or, if you’re camping, bring a bag of dried coconut for an easy topping addition that is lightweight and flavourful.
Not everyone has a sweet tooth, so serve a savoury option alongside your sugary s’mores. Use gourmet crackers and delicious soft cheeses like goat, fresh mozzarella or better yet, melted Brie. Add in delectable toppings like tomatoes, hot jellies, prosciutto or fresh herbs.
Try: • Strawberries • Bananas • Apples (use white chocolate and caramel sauce for an apple pie s’more)
5. Make a s’more at home
3. The ice cream s’more This idea takes a little prep, but bring these s’mores to the campground and you’ll soon become a campfire legend. Makes 12 ice cream s’mores Good quality vanilla ice cream, slightly softened 24 graham crackers 12 marshmallows 1 ½ cups chocolate chips
1. Broil a baking sheet full of minimarshmallows. Let cool.
2. Mix marshmallows into ice cream. 3. Spread a layer of ice cream onto
a graham cracker. Top with a second graham cracker. Repeat until you have the quantity you need. Freeze on baking sheet.
4. In a double boiler, melt chocolate chips.
5. Take two or three graham cracker
sandwiches out of the freezer at a time and dip into chocolate. Place sandwiches back on baking sheet to harden. Repeat until all sandwiches are chocolate-dipped.
Not going to be around a campfire? That doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in a s’more! Simply place your graham cracker, toppings and marshmallow on a baking sheet and broil them in the oven for a few minutes. Watch carefully! Top with another cracker and voila! Not going to be around a campfire? That doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in a s’more!
6. Get saucy We may all have had a s’more mishap where the chocolate doesn’t quite melt and comes flying out the sides. Prevent this by spreading a sticky sauce on your graham crackers and placing your chocolate on top. Try: • Salted caramel sauce • Hazelnut spread • Lemon curd (use white chocolate for a lemon meringue pie s’more)
8. Make a homemade graham cracker
This graham cracker recipe uses ingredients commonly found in kitchen cupboards and is quick to make. I love using these crackers as the base of s’mores at home. If you’re gluten-free, try using different flours! Recipe adapted from weelicious.com Makes 24 cookies 1 cup whole wheat flour 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup brown sugar, packed ½ tsp salt 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg 1 tsp baking soda ½ cup unsalted butter, cubed and chilled ¼ cup (60 mL) honey ¼ cup (60 mL) water
1. In a bowl, combine flours, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and baking soda. Stir until well mixed.
2. Cut in cubed butter until crumbs form.
3. Coat the measuring cup you’re using
for the honey in oil so it easily slides out. Add honey and water to mixture. Stir until dough forms a ball.
4. Roll dough out until 3-4 mm inch thick. Use a ruler to cut into squares. Keep re-rolling dough and cutting squares until none remains.
5. Place crackers on a baking sheet
lined with parchment paper and bake at 350º F for 12 minutes. 29
The Garden of France:
The Loire Valley by ERIKA TOCCO
When I think of France and where I like to go when I am there, I immediately think of what is dubbed “The Garden of France” the Loire Valley. Imagine a region 800 kilometers long starting off at the mouth of the Atlantic and ending in the center of France. The Loire boasts a river that is 280 kilometers in length. Still used for trade and agriculture, it is also beautiful - touring the Loire by riverboat is still one of the best ways to visit wine country.
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Not only is the Loire diverse in landscape, it is also home to many beautiful chateaux thanks to the nobility in the 10th century and onwards. The royal family built summer homes here, and the nobility followed this posh idea to create summer escape pads away from their daily lives. The lush beauty of the lands attracted the eyes of some of the greatest landscape architects of their generation, and it is those people we can thank for the gardens we can visit today. Since 2000, the center of the Loire has been a UNESCO heritage site.
If wine is your thing, then a visit to this area is a must. A diverse landscape also comes with diverse wines. There are 87 AOCs (appellation d’origine contrôlée) in the Loire Valley today and wine made here can range from dry to very sweet, as well as bubbly, dessert-style, white, red and rosé. This region has a long history of wine making as well. Romans planted vines
here when France was still known as Gaul, and what could be considered actual, documented wine production began in the 1st century AD. With over 185,000 hectares of vines, it is twice the size of Bordeaux and also has the highest number of vine density per hectare. The region is divided up into four different sub-regions: Nantes, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and the Central Vineyards. The Central Vineyards comprise vineyards that are dominated by sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, and encompass the AOCs of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. Two very specific areas known for producing two very distinctive styles of sauvignon blanc, thanks mostly to their soil structures.
Romans planted vines here when France was still known as Gaul Pouilly Fumé is known for its smoky edged wines, and typical examples of Sancerre are flinty with strong mineral notes. Pouilly Fumé was always famous, but even more so when Robert Mondavi decided to strengthen sales of his sauvignon blanc by “borrowing” the
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name Fumé and calling his sauvignon blanc, “Fumé Blanc” (which, by the way, you can’t do anymore. It is a protected name). The particular silex and limestone soils that dominate these areas give us wines of extraordinary finesse and elegance. Pinot follows suit, with edgy mineral notes, full berry fruit, and silky structure. Anjou-Saumur and Touraine encompass what is chenin blanc, cabernet franc, and sauvignon territory. Chenin is the white grape star, made in a variety of styles from dry to very sweet (appearing on a label as dry, demi-sec, sec, and molleux), each example luscious and elegant with crisp, mouth-watering acid, bright tropical fruit that leans towards
baked stone fruit pies, and earthiness once aged. Cabernet franc, one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon, is similar to cabernet sauvignon in character. It tends to be leaner in acid with ripe black and blue fruits, and a slight herbal edge. Anjou-Saumur is largely responsible for all the crémant or sparkling wine production. People tend to think that bubbles were first discovered in Champagne, but the very first bubbles recorded were made in the Loire. Bottles are still made in the difficult méthode ancestrale (made with no dosage or disgorging). Chenin is largely responsible for crémant production; often these wines exude notes of fresh tropical fruits, honey and lemon. It
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when the wine is left on them in a barrel and stirred multiple times a day. This method creates a smooth balance to the wines. This area’s four appellations all produce white wine from this grape: Muscadet – Sèvre et Maine, Muscadet - Côtes de Grand Lieu, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire and Muscadet. The appellations Muscadet – Sèvre et Maine and Muscadet - Côtes de Grand Lieu are often bottled sur lie and unfiltered or unfined, and can sometimes require decanting before serving as they can be cloudy. There are plenty of great wines from the Loire available at most good stores, but liquorconnect.com is a great resource for finding wines at your local shops. can respectively boast the impressive statistic that it is the third largest sparkling wine production hub after Champagne and Alsace.
world, but rather preserve the inherent freshness of fruit of the wines. Loire malbec is also easier on the palate when it comes to pairing wines for food.
This area is also famous for “Rosé d’Anjou” or “Cabernet d’Anjou”both local names for the dry, heady cabernet-based rosés from the Loire. The Touraine region embraces Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire, areas that are 100 percent chenin blanc in all their
The myriad of pinots created in the Loire are similar to those from Burgundy. They have the same delicacy and distinctive earthy edge, but do not retain the same elegance as Burgundian pinot noir. Loire pinots have slightly more weight, more flesh on the texture. Some examples have notes of a green, slightly raw, herbaceous character to them and always distinctive mineral notes that are present both on the palate and nose.
It is the third largest sparkling wine production hub after Champagne and Alsace
stylish glory (producing both dry-very sweet examples and botrisized wines as well). The neighbouring regions of Touraine and Chinon are primarily known for cabernet production, pinots (all the pinot family grows here) and malbec, which is locally known as cot. Yes the same grape that has taken Argentina by storm - but so different! Leaner in style, with brighter acid and fresh black fruit with a distinct mineral edge. The norm is not to lay heavy oak into them like we do in the new 32
The Nantes is primarily the home of one grape - melon de Bourgogne, in the form of muscadet. Historically, The Nantes was motivated to plant this varietal in order to supply the Dutch merchants with brandy in the early 17th century. And what do you know? The grape stuck around and it is the utmost for pairing with shellfish and oysters. The wines are traditionally crisp and clean with mineral notes and zesty acidity that is sometimes paired down by a winemaking method called “sur lie” which translates to rested/resting on the lees. Lees are the spent yeast cells that help create a creamy texture in a wine
Erika Tocco is the senior wine director for Vin Room and has taught for WSET, levels 1-3. Follow her on twitter @corkscrewlady.
Loire Wine Picks 2008 Domaine Huet Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec $48 2011 Chateau Coulaine Chinon $27 Antech Blanquette Di Limoux Reserve Brut $23 2012 Denis Jamain “Les Fossiles” Reuilly $27 2012 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil “Trinch” $28 2012 Henri Bourgeois “Les Baronnes” Sancerre $27 2011 Chateau De Varennes Savennières $30
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Pick A Pack Of Pretty Pinot by TOM FIRTH
Call me silly, but I’ve had pinot on my mind. Some good producers have been in town, the weather has been cooperating, and lighter bodied wines have been the order of the day. Pinot noir is a wonderful grape, its versatility with food borders on ridiculous, it isn’t too heavy, and it’s the perfect fix when it comes to wines that exude terroir. Five countries and two states have offerings below and I hope you have a chance to enjoy a few of them as much as I’ve enjoyed tasting them.
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Domaine Drouhin 2012 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, Oregon Coming from a warmer year (in Oregon) look for plenty of blacker berry fruits, raspberries, mocha, and dry compost notes on the nose. Palate is packed with lifted fruits, slightly firm tannins and some bright acids. Duck confit anyone? $47
Pascal Marchand 2010 Avalon Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France A Burgundian wine with a Canadian connection in Quebec native Pascal Marchand, look for strawberry and cherry-type fruits, bright floral tones and a touch of earthiness in this huge, generous nose. To taste, fruits are open and welcoming with good acids and slightly bitter tannin presence. Pair with burgers, smokies, or something else barbecued. $41
Banshee 2012 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, California Soft, ripe fruits with a little spice box lead to a touch of woody compost, while the palate showcases big fruits, a touch of tannin and a mild creaminess, bringing an added dimension. Easy drinking and versatile. $37
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Volnay Taille Pieds Premier Cru, Burgundy, France
Paul Hobbs 2011 Crossbarn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, California
Richmond Plains 2012 Blanc de Noir Nelson, New Zealand
Quite dark in the glass with some early bricking on the rim, there is an abundance of depth and complexity in this glass. Floral, with sugarplum, cherries, hints of strawberry, spice, earthy-mushroom notes, and a hint of gingerbread. Really stunning for drinking now, soon, or in the future. $90
Loving the layers in this glass - bright cherry fruits, a little jam jar, and some lighter compost notes on the nose while tight fruits show on the palate with vegetable leaf, woodiness, and a nice long finish. Drink or keep, neither will disappoint. $47
Not counting that this wine is both certified organic and biodynamic, this is a rare example of a white wine made from pinot noir grapes. Pear and peach fruits with a note of red apple and melon. Definitely interesting but very similar to pinot gris. $27
Joseph Chromy 2012 Pinot Noir Tasmania, Australia
Louis Latour 2011 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France
Back House 2012 Pinot Noir California
From cool-climate Tasmania, plenty of earthy, barnyard-y expression hovers over the berry fruits in this glass. In the mouth the fruits are tart, with plenty of acidity for the foodies and a nice long finish. I’m going to suggest freshwater fish or game bird as a food pairing here. $30
A classic and well-known pinot noir from France. Bright fruits, some great acid presence, and just a touch of tannic grip on the finish. Drinking best now, it’s perfect with duck, cedar plank salmon, or a veggie burger if that is your thing. A Judges Selection at the 2013 Alberta Beverage Awards too. $21
Packed to the roof with lush, ripe berry fruits, it tastes literally like a glass of jam. I’m saying that as a compliment, but it is decidedly jam-like. A casual glass for those getting into wine or those that like their reds a little sweeter. Bring to the barbecue or enjoy as a no-fuss tipple. $17
Mouton Noir 2011 O.P.P. Willamette Valley, Oregon
Tiefenbrunner 2012 Turmhoff Pinot Nero, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy
Libra 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir Oregon
Tightly wound with black cherry fruits, black pepper, vegetable leaf, and chalky mineral notes. Great fruit presence with a little blueberry to go with cherry and cranberry. Made from sourced fruits, it’s amazing what some people can do with “other people’s pinot…” $23
Yes, Italy does make some pinot noir, and yes it can do it quite well. Aromas of wood chip, black cherry spice and cocoa, with a sleek floral note throughout. Lush fruits, with balanced tannins and a little smokiness on the finish, I’d say drink now, and try to enjoy it with pork loin, lamb burgers, or anything really. $28
Bright and floral on the nose with a slightly dried cherry fruit expression. Rich and juicy with great acid presence, this wine has style. Best drinking over the near term, enjoy with duck, salmon, or some nice appetizers. $37 Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @ cowtownwine.
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Above: Music at Bench 1775 at Sunset Below: Naramata Bench
Every Bottle A
meandering road winds along the east side of Okanagan Lake punctuated by vineyards and orchards, leading to the small lakeshore community of Naramata. If you look closely, you can see the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history carved into the hillside; millions of years ago glaciers scraped away part of the earth, leaving behind mineral-rich sandy cliffs and an iconic bench. The Naramata Bench Wineries Association is a group of 25 wineries on a 14-kilometer, bicyclefriendly route from Penticton viewpoint Munson Mountain to the village of Naramata. What was once the shallow shoreline of a prehistoric lake now offers visitors towering cliffs, diverse agriculture, and one of Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premiere wine regions.
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Wineries event at Sandy Beach Lodge
Farmers have tended these lands for more than a century, and over the last two decades vines have become more prevalent. Viticulturists are drawn to the variety of soils that resulted from melting glaciers and millennia of erosion, while grapes love the cooler evening lake breezes and the long, hot sunny days. Their tagline “a story in every bottle” is fitting. Many of the region’s wineries come from humble beginnings, as is the case with one of the oldest on the Bench. Poplar Grove Winery is the quintessential garagiste-winery-grownup, having recently moved from its grass-roots garage home to an architectural marvel tucked into the ridgeline of Munson Mountain. They were some of the first people to explore the terroir of this land, and more follow suit every year. Today, the Naramata Bench offers unique experiences for wine lovers and locavores.
Wine Tasting Whether you’re a seasoned sipper or just beginning your wine appreciation education, you’ll find something here to please your palate. Popular regional plantings include cooler-climate loving vines like pinot noir, riesling, pinot gris, and merlot perform very well in the area – local winemakers can’t seem to make enough of it. Visitors will easily find a story at every winery. Serendipity was started after owner Judy Kingston visited the area while on vacation in
ULTIMATE WINE & CHEESE CLUB RECIPE Ingredients: • 3 parts award winning Upper Bench wine • 3 parts hand-crafted Upper Bench cheese • Add your favourite baguette or crackers • Add great friends (or keep it for yourself) Serve 4 times per year More info at upperbench.ca/curds-and-corks-clubs
For free shipping on your first Curds & Corks Club shipment, mention: Culinaire2014
170 UPPER BENCH ROAD SOUTH, PENTICTON, BC V2A 8T1 250.770.1733 WWW.UPPERBENCH.CA /UPPERBENCH @UPPERBENCH
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Left: Katie O’Kell, daughter of Judy Kingston at Serendipity Winery door Right: Chef Rob Cordonier, Hillside Bistro
2005, don’t miss her wines at this year’s Calgary Stampede. Upper Bench is the tasty marriage of the Millers-winemaker Gavin and cheese maker Shana – who is known for singing to her cheeses. Although the bulk of wine touring occurs between April and October, several area wineries are open year round – check before you visit in the off-season.
Winery Dining Food and wine go hand in hand, whether it’s a picnic on the patio or a winepaired feast with an award-winning chef. It won’t take long to find a place to satisfy a grumbling tummy. Enjoy a snack and sweeping 180-degree lakeside views on Bench 1775’s vineyard patio, glass of wine in hand. Fortify yourself at Hillside
Winery’s Bistro with a lingering lunch of housecured meats – or a local favourite, duck confit grilled cheese sandwich – and a bottle of rosé. Be sure to stay nourished and keep hydrated as you explore what the Naramata Bench has to offer.
Accommodation From breakfast in the vineyard to spending the night in a place of Naramata history, you’ll rest well on the Bench. Sandy Beach Lodge offers a romantic B&B getaway in their renovated 1940s log lodge, or cabins for the family to reconnect and rejuvenate. In the heart of the Village, the Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa provides a glimpse into life from the last century – with all modern amenities, and a luxurious day spa to help you unwind. The Inn’s restaurant has an extensive local wine list.
Events Winemakers like an excuse to gather and celebrate, and this year’s annual Naramata Wineries Tailgate Party is celebrating the 30th
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anniversary of the Canadian classic “My American Cousin”, filmed in Naramata. As a special bonus, Naramata born Writer/Director Sandy Wilson will be at the party – with cast and crew – to revisit the Naramata of 1959 as portrayed in the film. Guests are encouraged to come dressed in their 1950s best, as there will prizes for best outfit; judging of the costume competition will be done by the cast led by director Wilson, so authenticity and creativity should be rewarded. This event sells out every year, so get your tickets early.
Naramata Tailgate Party Wines from 25 wineries, local cuisine, live music! Date: September 13, 2014 Time: 6:30pm – 9:00pm Where: Poplar Grove Winery Tickets $95 per person (www.naramatabench.com or 1-800-663-1900)
“If you climb in the saddle, be ready for the ride” On feature for the 2nd year at the Stampede, and now on store shelves and in restaurants in Calgary. Ask for Serendipity where fine BC wines are sold. Learn more at www.serendipitywinery.com serendipitywinerybc @winespiration
Can’t make the Tailgate Party? Don’t fret. Winery events occur throughout the summer and into fall, and many are free of charge. Visit the Naramata Bench Wineries Association website regularly for information on all upcoming events.
Wayfarer: Weekend Road Trips Hitting The Road In Search Of Good Food North, south, east or west, wherever you’re headed, it’s important to make sure that you stay well fed on a weekend getaway! Skip the mountains for once and try one of these two destinations, perfect for a short road trip while the sun is shining and the grass is green! Saskatoon
by DAN CLAPSON Our prairie neighbour, Saskatoon is an easy six-hour journey to make - not to mention a good reason to make a quick stopover in Drumheller for some candid pictures with the dinosaurs peppered around town. It’s really amazing how far this city’s food scene has come in the past few years. Much like Calgary’s boom a decade or so ago, Saskatoon’s population is projected to jump significantly in the coming years. With more inhabitants come more restaurants and, being a born and raised
(and proud) Saskatchewan boy, I am always excited to see what new eateries are popping up in my hometown. The heart of the city offers up some great establishments like The Rook and Raven (great pub fare), Truffles Bistro (French influenced) and, of course, Ayden Kitchen and Bar. Opened in fall, 2013 by Top Chef Canada season one winner Dale Mackay, Ayden - named after the chef’s son - was officially Saskatoon’s first celebrity chef restaurant. The cuisine here is refined and well balanced, with service and an interior that is arguably unparalleled
in the city. Ayden’s barkeep and general manager, Christopher Cho has spent time in Vancouver and Calgary perfecting the art of the cocktail, so it is no surprise that whatever he’s shaking and stirring behind the bar here, it will be some of the best sips you’ll find in town. A gem of a dining destination all on it’s lonesome, is Prairie Harvest Cafe. Chef and owner, Mike McKeown serves up elevated Saskatchewan comfort food like ‘borscht’ perogies (better than your Baba’s!), seared local trout and more. Nestled into a teeny strip 41
Carnales has been bringing Mexican culture to the city. Partners Daniel (Dani) Braun, Chris Sills and Edgar Guitterrez set their sights on delivering “Tacos for the people!” with their simple menu of authentic Mexican tacos on corn tortillas (classics like fish, marinated pork and beef brisket), quesadillas, tortas and Mexican beers. Not only do they make some of the best food in the city, they provide an entire experience utilizing local ingredients, in a vibrant and bustling space with art by local artists.
Photo courtesy Tourism Saskatoon
mall in a residential area, the layout of the restaurant is a bit odd, but the quirkiness of the interior with its mix of old tables, wooden chairs and vibrant art on the walls, just adds to the charm. McKeown is all about highlighting Saskatchewan ingredients and cooking with heart, which always translates to a fantastic dining experience. Random location aside, this place is always jampacked, so a reservation might be a good idea. An amazingly revitalized area of the city, Riversdale becomes more of a destination with each passing year. Anchored by the beautiful Saskatoon
Leyda’s Gluten-free Dessert
this restaurant manages to pull off health-conscious cuisine in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. “You mean this bread is gluten-free?” At Leyda’s you’d never know the difference.
Edmonton It’s really amazing how far this city’s food scene has come in the past few years
Farmers’ Market (buying some sea buckthorn berry gelato there is a must), the area is home to a couple of great cafes like Collective Coffee where you can get your quality caffeine fix, and a number of restaurants. The Hollows (Canadian contemporary) and The Odd Couple (Asian-inspired) are both popular spots to dine, but for a truly unique restaurant, try Leyda’s for a gluten-free, nut-free and 100% organic meal. A concept like this may read as hippie-dippie ‘granola’, but 42
by DIANA NG Although Calgary has the greatest outdoor show on Earth, the Calgary Stampede, Edmonton isn’t called the Festival City for nothing. Not only a major hub for the oil and gas industry, the provincial capital is home to over 30 annual festivals, including Edmonton International Fringe Festival, K-Days, and the Canadian Finals Rodeo. The collective entrepreneurial spirit of musicians, artists, and increasingly, restaurateurs and chefs, are making the city a cultural gem, and the restaurants are becoming just as much a destination as music and theatre shows. Right in the heart of downtown by the newly renovated Central Station, Tres
If you’re spending the day taking in the trendy yet historic 104 Street, you’ll want to head to the warehouse district around the corner to dine at the Spanish-Portuguese Sabor Divino. Broadway actor turned restaurateur Christian Mena, who shared the stage with Neil Patrick Harris in RENT, isn’t the only star here; so are the sprightly Latin flavours from chef Lino Oliviera. The inviting restaurant has been bringing soulful Latin culture to oil city since 2008 via updated traditional seafood dishes like paella, piri piri prawns, bacalhau cakes and seared fresh fish. It recently opened its Bodega Wine & Tapas Bar, an extension that satisfies the mood for Spanish small plates over more structured meals. For a laid-back, yet elegant dinner option, head to The Marc, a traditional French bistro run by husband and wife Tres Carnales
LAYER CAKE WINES AUSTRALIA
team, Patrick and Doris Saurette, on the south side of Jasper Avenue, just off of the hot 104 Street block. The couple earned their stripes in the city’s dining scene with Il Portico and Claudes. A product of the Saurette’s accumulated learning and passion for simple and good food, The Marc exudes casual and effortless sophistication. The soothing dining room, brightened with white painted brick walls and adorned with flowers, is the perfect backdrop for conversations over craft beers, French essentials like entrecôte frites, duck rillette and steak tartare, and desserts like classic crème caramel and beignets. If trendy dining isn’t your thing, and you’d rather be sliding down the tubes at World Waterpark or getting jolted around at Galaxyland in West Edmonton Mall, then you’ll likely want an equally fun and outrageous dining experience The provincial capital is home to over 30 annual festivals with the family. Rockin’ Robyn’s, a 50s-themed diner just seven minutes from the mall, offers the wholesome and vivacious vibe you’re looking for. Don’t mistake this for Johnny Rockets though. Complete with black and white chequered floor and vinyl booths, this is the perfect place to rest your feet and enjoy a homey meal of house-made pies, hand-cut fries, all-day breakfast and big and fresh sandwiches. Diana Ng is a co-founder of Eat North and freelance writer who will eat your food when you’re not looking.
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The Beers Of Summer by DAVID NUTTALL
Since professional baseball left Calgary a decade ago (with apologies to Roger Kahn), dare we say craft beer drinking has become the newest popular summertime activity? There is no doubt that beer consumption peaks during the longer days of our summer months. So to celebrate almost everybody’s favourite season, breweries love to concoct special beers to help wile away the lazy, hazy days of summer. Much like other seasonal beers, there is no set recipe for what makes a great summer beer. However, there are certain characteristics that apply to most summer seasonals. They tend towards the lighter varieties of beer, with lower or moderate alcohol content (usually 4.5-5.5% ABV), and often use ingredients that produce a more “refreshing” tasting beer. Traditionally, this has often meant wheat beers, but with today’s varieties of malts, hops and other adjuncts, a creative brewer could make a summer beer out of almost any style. So what are summer beers all about? Well, where you drink it, who you drink it with, the weather that day, and a multiple of other factors all influence
Beer consumption peaks during the longer days of our summer months
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one’s beer drinking experience. For example, some people may enjoy many of these beers garnished with a slice of orange to help bring out their natural spicy fruit flavour; some pooh-pooh that practice. However and wherever you enjoy them, you’ll find a selection of nine North American beers and one European beer below which will help you celebrate the warmer months. Some are limited releases, so drink them while you can!
Anderson Valley Summer Solstice - They call this their “cream soda for adults”. With its slightly sweet malty caramel flavour, creamy
mouthfeel and smooth finish, this California ale goes great with barbecued food and even some desserts. Sold in 6 pack cans for about $19.
Anchor Summer Beer - This San
Francisco brewery created the first modern American wheat beer in 1984. They use at least 50% malted wheat in the grain bill with American hops. The result is a pleasantly light, clean beer that pours with a thick, dense head much like its German counterparts. 6 pack bottles, $17.
Samuel Adams Summer Ale -
Now a Boston landmark, this brewery produces its wheat beer using noble hops. Its sharp and zesty taste comes from the additions of lemon peel and Grains of Paradise. The result is a peppery, spicy beer that goes with salads and lighter fare. 6 pack bottles, $15.
Nickel Brook Green Apple Pilsener - At only 4% ABV, this
Ontario beer has the aroma of apple cider, however its taste is that of a light pilsner, albeit one that has been blended with about 20% natural apple juice. Which, of course, is exactly what it is. Very light, crisp and fruity, it goes great with milder dishes and poultry, pork, and seafood. 473 mL cans, $4.
Amsterdam Oranje Weisse - The
summer offering from this Toronto brewery is a salute to unfiltered Flemish style white beers. Brewed with unmalted wheat, they add two varieties of orange peel, coriander and anise to fill out the flavour profile. Extremely refreshing, you can’t miss its bright orange 500 mL bottle on the shelf, $5.
lemongrass gives it an additional citrusy aroma and flavour. White IPAs are becoming a new popular style and go great with spicy, hot foods and curries. 6% ABV, 65 IBUs, it comes in a re-closable 1 litre bottle for around $11.
Fernie Brewing Company’s Ol’ Willy Wit Belgian White Ale and What The Huck - Willy Wit is
a classic unfiltered Belgian white ale. Cloudy and brewed with coriander and orange peel, it is a good thirst-quencher anytime. What the Huck is a creamier wheat ale with a touch of sweet tartness thanks to the inclusion of native huckleberries. Both beers are available year round, but just seem to taste better in the summer! Both come in 650 mL bottles for about $6.
Muskoka Summer Weiss - Another Innis and Gunn Lager - This beer Ontario wheat ale, however one that has more of a lemony flavour than most. Its combination of wheat, barley and light hopping make this a great session beer. 6 pack bottles, $16.
Howe Sound Cloudburst Lemongrass White IPA - Not all
summer beers ignore bittering hops. This B.C. brewery’s unfiltered IPA mixes white wheat and barley with Centennial and Amarillo hops. The addition of
is part of the expansion of Scotland’s favourite producer of barrel-aged ales. This Helles lager is their first foray into bottom-fermented beers and isn’t aged in barrels. By using sweet malt, oats and aromatic hops, they have made a beer that is so fresh and clean, you’d swear it came from one of the great lager producers of continental Europe. Like many of those beers, it also comes in a 500 mL can, $3.
Unapologetically Summer by TOM FIRTH
Moscato - it’s polarizing, frivolous, even flirty, but there is no denying that it is a wine that is so pure and expressive that it is often described as “summertime in a glass”.
For most wine drinkers, moscato is best known by its popular and pretty incarnation of moscato d’Asti. This lightly sparkling, definitely sweet, chock-full-of-summer-fruit wine is fun and refreshing. It is also typically very low in alcohol, with most safely nestled in the less than 7 percent alcohol range. While the grape “Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains”, AKA moscato, AKA muscat blanc, or any of the many other names it is known by, is likewise found in a variety of styles. The grape is well known for its intense, floral, almost “grapey” scent and flavour, and is one of the few grapes that can make a wine that tastes like grapes. Sounds strange, but anyone who likes Welch’s grape juice can attest that purple grape juice tastes nothing like wine. Muscat, with all its summer flavours of oranges, peaches, and fresh flowers, isn’t a great candidate for cellaring. Most should be purchased, chilled, and opened in the same day, or at least in the same season. These are at their best young, fresh, and exuberant. Moscato d’Asti, which comes from northern Italy, is made and stored in large tanks and only bottled when the demand dictates - to best preserve the youthful character that drinkers are looking for. Relatively new to the moscato scene is “pink moscato”, the wine has a bright 46
Moscato Picks
pink colour and is typically blended with a little red wine, such as merlot, to get the colour without a lot of addition to the flavour. Some people love them, some absolutely hate them, but they usually have plenty of sweetness, and on the nose, they often have a slight icing sugar or confection note. I’ve yet to find a good food pairing for pink moscato, but I’ll keep trying. Drier muscats can be paired with Thai or Asian cuisine as well as seafood, while sweeter examples are great with fruity salads or can be enjoyed on their own. Both types should be served well chilled. For glassware, a smaller, tulip shaped white wine glass is usually best, though
Muscat is one of the few grapes that can make a wine that tastes like grapes the fine glassware juggernaut Riedel recommends a coupe style glass allowing the intense aromas to breathe. Remember when I said it was fun? Although some people take them seriously, these wines are meant for casual entertaining, sharing with friends, and enjoying around the patio.
Castello di Gabbiano 2012 Moscato d’Asti, Italy
Lindemans 2012 Bin 90 Moscato, South Eastern Australia
Tropical and fresh with peaches, pears, and puréed fruits with plenty of floral aromas. Once you take a sip, honey and pears, with more peach fruits and a nice lemony finish. Sure you can drink it any way you’d like, but well chilled in the great outdoors is the best. $18
Plenty of floral aromas with green apple, lime, soapstone mineral notes, and a bit more. On the attack, off-dry, bright fruits, zingy acids, and a slightly waxy finish should pair well with appetizers, citrus flavours or on its own. $12
Intenso NV Bubbles Moscato, Brazil
Eberle 2011 Muscat Canelli, Paso Robles, California
Sparkling moscato from Brazil? Incredibly popular with Brazilians, sparkling moscato might be the national wine. This bottle from Sierra Gaucha is pretty well a perfect example of what this grape can do. Juicy, fruity, lower in alcohol, it is perfect for summer or fond wishes for the end of winter. $17
Honey aromas, grape must, citrus, and oranges lead on the nose with a little mineral and apple aromas for good measure. Off-dry, and still, not sparkling, the flavours are fresh, floral, and the acids are well-balanced for the sweetness. Delicious. $20
Beringer 2012 Moscato, California
Benjamin Bridge Nova 7, Nova Scotia
A heady nose typical of moscato with big fruits, tons of floral characters and much more lead into flavours bright, bold, and more than a little off-dry. Perfect for casual enjoyment, it’ll be best enjoyed well chilled. $12
With a touch of colour and more than a dollop of sweetness, this all-round summer sipper is loaded with fruit flavours and some delicate fizz. Best of all? This blend of several muscats hails from Nova Scotia! Benjamin Bridge is well known for producing some of the finest sparklers in Canada. $30
Moscato is often described as “summertime in a glass”
Go on, have some fun with your wine. 47
Sangria: The Quintessential Summer Cocktail by REBECCA DAVIS
It’s here – summer, my favourite time of year. The days are long, the nights are warm, and nothing says summer like sitting on a patio drinking sangria. Sangria is a popular warm weather cocktail and a summer staple to many Calgarians. The story of sangria begins in western Europe, specifically Spain and Portugal. Traditionally, sangria is a punch made from four ingredients: Rioja red wine, sugar, fresh fruit and brandy. Only since the beginning of this year has the name been restricted under European law, and much like wine, can only be labelled ‘sangria’ if it comes from Spain and Portugal. It is so popular that December 20th was named National Sangria Day! Besides being one of the original punches, the health benefits of drinking sangria are multiple: sangria is low in fat; the lemons, limes and oranges are an excellent source of vitamin C; and according to many health professionals, red wine, in moderation, can be good for your heart!
Just like cocktails, sangria has classic recipes and innovative twists. The fun part of mixing this sweet, but tart, libation is that there are no rules! Just guidelines. Aromatic dry white wine, sweet tropical fruit and spicy vanilla cognac can change the whole style of your punch, making it lighter and more refreshing. Here is a traditional Spanish sangria recipe and a mouth-watering twist on this classic. The possibilities are endless, so have fun with it and savour a glass (or two) on your favourite patio this year.
1 bottle dry white wine 2 cups (500 mL) ginger ale 2 oz Navan vanilla infused cognac 1 lime, cut into wedges 1/2 pineapple, cut into wedges with skin removed 2 kiwi fruits, cut into wedges
Combine all ingredients into a large punch bowl and stir well with ice. Feel free to experiment with different liqueurs and different fruit depending on the season.
Claret Cup Punch
A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails and currently works at Wurst. On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.
The fun part of mixing this sweet, but tart, libation is that there are no rules! Just guidelines.
48
Sangria Blanco
1 bottle red wine, Rioja works best 1 lemon, cut into wedges 1 orange, cut into wedges 1 oz brandy 2 Tbs sugar 2 cups (500 mL) ginger ale or club soda
Combine all the ingredients in a large punch bowl, a large vase works as well. Stir with ice. Make sure to taste as you go.
CREATIVITY EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENT SIDES OF CHEF DUNCAN LY, GOLD MEDALIST, AWARD WINNING CHEF
HOTEL ARTS | KENSINGTON RIVERSIDE INN
yes, we are taking reservations for brunch
209-10th Street NW | 403-283-8988 www.verobistro.ca
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“Wine calls to me in my sleep. I look for any reason to open up every special bottle of wine that I’ve ever had,” says Calgary Co-op Sommelier Coordinator Team Lead, Mike Roberts. Working in restaurants since he was fourteen years old, Roberts started at McDonald’s, then a ski resort in Banff, followed by over five years at Chateau Lake Louise. His parents often drank wine at dinner, but “it was never very good wine”, he says. “I can remember as a child tasting wine, but it was in Lake Louise that I really discovered wine.” A staff training using smell-kits blew Roberts’ mind, “I totally got hooked,” he says. “I had a little wine rack in my closet and started storing wine. I’ll always remember that staff training, it got me into wine, for sure.” He moved to Calgary and took a job at Vintage Group, who had an instructor running ISG courses just for their restaurants, and took levels 1 and 2 back to back. “I finished level 3 and got my diploma, but that’s only the beginning,” says Roberts. “I’ve realised how little I actually know, so I’m now doing WSET level 4 online. I’ve bought myself stacks of textbooks. There’s lots of learning to do.” 50
Roberts gave up in restaurants in 2011. He had small kids, “And I wanted to put them to bed, rather than putting a restaurant to bed,” he says. On his course, he had met people who worked for the Co-op, and had been watching their website to look for sommelier postings, until one came up and he was accepted. So what bottle is Roberts is saving for a special occasion? ‘Funkadelic Syrah 2010’ is from Sleight of Hand Cellars, a small production winery in Walla Walla, Washington. The grapes are from ‘The Funk vineyard’ and are foot-crushed; only six barrels (145 cases) were produced. “I chose it because we all know what to expect if you lay down a bottle of Bordeaux, vintage Champagne or Barolo. For me I’m very curious about how it will age being a new world syrah,” Roberts explains. “Most people don’t think of new world wines as something that you can age but I’ve tasted it before and I think it’s going to age really well. I think it will be beautiful seven or eight years from now, it might drink like a Côte Rotie.” The big thing for Roberts is the label, as he is a big music fan. “The winemaker is all about music too, he has 6,000
records. I often relate wine to music; it’s an analogy that I use to explain different wine styles, so I feel attached to the wine. If I was pairing it with music, I’d have to say it would be Jimi Hendrix blues.” And when might Roberts open the wine? “I’m a terrible sommelier, I’m totally undisciplined. If guests come over I can’t help it, I know curiosity killed the cat but I open them and share them. I want to wait and see until this wine is ten years old, but I don’t know if I have that type of discipline. Maybe I can get tickets to a good concert and open it for that. I want to wait till it has matured.”
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