Culinaire #10.1 (May 2021) by Culinaire Magazine

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S M AY 2 02 1

The Best Butter Chicken | Celebrating Moms | Exploring the Okanagan

2020

• CANADIAN WHISKY AWARDS •

DISTILLERY OF THE DECADE

NO1 SELLING

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IN THE WORLD

Since 1946, AlbertA DiStillers haS crAfteD AwArDwinning SpiritS from canaDiAn prAirie grAins thAt Are carefully blenDeD with water feD from the Snow-capped peAkS of the canaDiAn rockieS. we Are prouD of our canaDiAn maDe SpiritS, prouD to be the canaDiAn whisky AwArDs DiStillery of the DecaDe, AnD prouD to have been A part of your liveS for the paSt 75 yeArS.

of Alberta Distillers Limited Calgary, Canada.

contents 14

Volume 10 / No. 1 / May 2021

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Book Review

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

The Campout Cookbook

Off The Menu

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Mum’s Moroccan Soup from The Dandelion Cafe

Mom’s the word!

40 Etcetera...

What’s new?

42 Open That Bottle

Dean Norris of Vintage Group

ALLPA Vertical Farming

Mainstreaming microgreens throughout Alberta by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

We so love the story behind Fairmont Hotel Macdonald executive chef, Jiju Paul’s, dish for our Chef’s Tips this month that we couldn’t resist including this bright and colourful bowl on our cover. Thanks very much to Chef Jiju and to photographer Dong Kim for capturing its deliciousness!

Icebox Cake

to celebrate the onset of summer by Renée Kohlman

16 On Board

28 On The Black Sage Road

32 May Spirits

Peasant Cheese Shop’s charcuterie board by Linda Garson

ON THE COVER

26 Step By Step: Blueberry Lime

“Udderly" Awesome Dairy

Recipe suggestions for butter, cream and yogurt by Natalie Findlay

20 Pre-made Cocktails Have Arrived

…and they’re only just beginning to see their potential by David Nuttall

22 The Search for Calgary’s Best Butter Chicken

…is over – the results! by Linda Garson

Home to some of BC’s most lauded wineries by Jeannette LeBlanc …exclusively from Alberta! by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

33 Local Cocktails…

and ready for you to drink by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

34 Being a Good Patron

Take note for when our restaurants reopen… by Carmen Cheng

38 Making The Case:

For BC’s local wines by Tom Firth May 2021 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

We’re excited to tell you that as well as Culinaire being widely available to pick up across Calgary, Edmonton, and in the mountains, you’ll now find us in Central Alberta too!

The journey… I

t’s our ninth birthday this month, and this is my 91st letter to you. It’s been a journey, but I’m feeling rather proud that we’ve made it this far. We’ve some big news to tell you this month, for as well as our expanded reach that you’ll read later in my letter, we’ve launched our new website – just in time for entries in the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards! It’s faster and hopefully easy to navigate, with recipes, articles, and links to all our back issues - so you can read any you missed and also find those recipes you cut out and misplaced. Our current issue is there in its entirety too. Many thanks to Keane Straub for all the hard work and tenacity! Talking of journeys, we had quite the adventure to find Calgary’s Best Butter Chicken, and I’m delighted to bring you the results on page 22 - I hope you

discover new faves too. With the current dining restrictions, please do check with the restaurants for availability. Before I sign off, in last month’s Salutes & Shout Outs we mistakenly attributed ownership of Tee Pee Treats, in Edmonton. It is corrected online, and we apologise to Curtis Cardinal for the error. Cheers

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

We’d like to welcome our new readers who are picking up copies in seven Central Alberta Co-op liquor stores: Timberlands, Deer Park, and Taylor locations in Red Deer Innisfail Lacombe Spruce View and Stettler We couldn’t be more thrilled than to hear from Babette Dorn, Central Alberta Co-op Liquor Division Manager, who wrote, “Linda, I would just like to say how our customers are enjoying the magazine. They are finding the articles, recipes and the knowledge of spirits, beer and wine a delightful read. They are already waiting for the next issue to come out.“

Fresh breads, meat, cheese and spreads - the perfect picnic always starts at our shops. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK - OPENING SUMMER 2021

TASTE what’s NEW

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes

Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Jeannette LeBlanc Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman David Nuttall, Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Carmen Cheng

Coming from a long line of food lovers and notorious overorderers, Carmen has always loved to eat and try different dishes. Through sharing food, she’s gained exposure to her Chinese-Canadian family’s stories and traditions, and learns about different cultures through understanding and honouring their culinary stories. She will try pretty much any food, and shares her food adventures on various forms of media including print, online, and television.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Busy freelance writer and broadcaster, Elizabeth writes about food, travel, and many other topics. In addition to contributing to Culinaire, national and international publications, she is a Globe and Mail bestselling cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio and the Calgary Herald. A lover of food, travel, music, and community, when Elizabeth isn’t out searching for something delicious she’s likely to be found curled up with a good book.

Jeannette LeBlanc

A freelance writer for almost 15 years, Jeannette LeBlanc has a keen interest in sustainable farming and winemaking. Writing about wine (and food) leads her to some of the most inviting places in British Columbia to meet the talented growers, farmers, and chefs who work hard to bring a sense of place to our tables. An Okanagan contributor for Culinaire since 2014, Jeannette is happiest when learning about a place and its people.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

EVENTS

Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca

We are Calgary’s premium destination for locally produced food and brilliant local chefs. Calgary’s Local Food Hub connects passionate shoppers with sustainable local food ideas all year long.

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Shop online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Calgary Police Youth Foundation (CPYF) and Kiwanis clubs of Calgary and area are publishing a cookbook, Cooking with Kids, in September in support of children and youth. There are over 100 recipes from Calgary chefs and cooks, and you can pre-order at CPYFstore.ca with promo code “KidsCooking” for free shipping when it comes out! GlobalFest has launched a new 10-episode mini-series sharing flavours of the OneWorld Festival. You’ll learn about the foods, spices, and recipes of a different culture each episode. Visit globalfest.ca/flavours for details.

opened downstairs at their 104 Street location for everything fried chicken and a wide selection of beer. There’s a large patio too! Thursday-Saturday, smokeybearyeg.com/bandits.

Coffee, ice cream, and pizza, all in one place in Bridgeland! Overlooking Murdoch Park at 65 7A Street NE, the new General Block is now home to Una’s 3rd Alberta full service location, Village Ice Cream’s 3rd store, and Phil & Seb’s 7th location. Open seven days. Kensington’s Raw Eatery & Market now has a new home in Bridgeland too, at 208 4 Street NE, and a new name Mondays Plant Restaurant. Take out plant-based toasts, tacos, pastas, bowls, and cookies; sauces and dressings from the Pantry; and lovely candles, perfumes, chocolate, and more in the Market. Closed Tuesdays. mondaysplantcafe.com. There’s a new restaurant just opened at 1211 Edmonton Trail, Calgary. Agni Indian is serving up meat, seafood, veggie, and cheese curries; Hakka dishes, and a variety of marinated meat skewers cooked in the tandoor. For both traditional and modern dishes, see yycagni.ca. We love the growth of ethical sourcing, so congrats to The Colombian Coffee Bar & Roastery who’ve opened their second location in Edmonton’s French Quarter, at 8816 92 Street. You can also enjoy some delicious sweet and savoury bites while you sip. thecolombian.ca. Nearby, in a converted house in Bonnie Doon, Green Ash Cafe has opened at 8903 83 Avenue. With a south-facing, dogfriendly patio, come for the much-lauded zucchini waffle grilled cheese, terrific 6 Culinaire | May 2021

sandwiches and wraps, daily changing soup and muffin menus - and paintings by local artists. @greenashcafe. More congratulations go to Brant Lake Wagyu who now occupy a new 8,000 square foot “BLW” retail butcher shop, offices, and distribution centre, on 42 Avenue SE, in Calgary. Visit to stock up on Brant Lake Wagyu, Broek Farms Heritage Berkshire Pork, traditional Hutterite chicken and other products, and Lambtastic lamb, along with VDG Salumi, Viva Deli products, and other premium foods. You’ll find spices, Route 83 Knives, local cutting boards, and BBQ supplies too! brantlakewagyu.ca Indian Fusion the Curry House now has a new home in Edmonton’s Old Strathcona. Head to Whyte Avenue for Chef Parkash Chhibber’s acclaimed Indian and Fijian dishes, and exotic curries of crocodile, elk, bison, duck, and rabbit, as well as lobster and crab coconut curries. indianfusionrestaurant.ca. Bandits Fried Chicken, from Edmonton’s Smokey Bear folks, has

Calgary’s Ke Charcoal Grill have opened their fourth store! Tokyo Station is a new Tokyo Street Market concept next door to their 15th Avenue SW location. It’s cool, crazy, with fabulous artwork, and based on the eats you’d find in Tokyo’s bustling JR Station. You really can’t go wrong with three floors of totally tasty $10 ramen (six to choose from) and five - $5 sides. Look for sweet and savoury Japanese snacks, as well as noodles, curry, seaweed, tea, and sushi ingredients in the market. And downstairs… eight flavours of housemade gelato, including our fave, (drum roll here) Wa-sa-bae (wasabi!). Oh boy, is that good gelato! Take-out and delivery seven days, tokyostreetmarket.com. There’s no stopping the new eateries and breweries in Spruce Grove! RavenWolf Brewing must be Alberta’s newest small brewery, and what a tough time to open. But they have four beers on tap; and bites, boards, bowls, and plates on the patio or to take out, along with growler and howler fills. ravenwolfbrewing.com. Just down the street, is the new Barbacoa, currently open for take-out with a pure comfort food menu of locally sourced, open-flame cooked dishes, prepared, as they say, “with a fiery passion for good food.” Those burgers look crazy good! Open seven days, barbacoa.ca.

B O O K R E V I E W BY TO M F I RT H

The Campout Cookbook Inspired Recipes for Cooking Around the Fire and Under the Stars By Marnie Hanel and Jen Stevenson, Artisan $25

ITH RENEWED INTEREST in staycations, camping, and RV-style touring, it’s time to up your culinary game when getting away from it all. (Hopefully) gone are the days when grocery shopping for a camping trip involved buying a small army’s worth of hotdogs and baked beans, or little boxes of single serving (yeah right!) breakfast cereals. Starting from the basics, including some terminology, what to pack, and how to pack it – those things you always wanted to know, but were afraid to ask – or thought you knew, it certainly isn’t a substitute for backcountry survival knowledge, but for the occasional or even regular camper, the authors cover a lot of ground. Wisely, illustrations are used throughout rather than photos, as surely only the best backcountry gourmand will make dishes look professionally staged, so there won’t be any latent inadequacy for not living up to the book’s depictions. Things start off with Trail Snacks from granola bars to lowmess rations for your march, moving on to Sides and Salads, including Sautéed Chanterelle Mushrooms (p.69), and camping staple, Bacon Molasses Baked Beans (p.76). Campfire Mains and Morning Meals make up most of the remainder of the book (though libations and desserts get plenty of attention too) with Dutch Oven Roast Chicken (p.114) and Pedal-to-the-metal Migas (p.200) perfect for brisk evening meals and to fuel up for the day ahead. Many recipes have sections on steps to make ahead of time, and several complete meals are included, adding breadth and depth to your culinary options on your next outdoor adventure.

O F F TH E M E N U

Mum’s Moroccan Soup STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY LINDA GARSON

N THE COURSE OF BRINGING YOU THE LATEST NEWS for our Salutes & Shout Outs page, I personally visit all the Calgary restaurants to meet the owners and chefs, try their dishes, and take some snaps. In March, we brought you news of The Dandelion’s new owners, and on a visit to meet them I tried Mum’s Moroccan Soup, which is so delicious I just had to ask how it was made. “That sweet, spicy, smoky smell that travelled from the kitchen to greet us at the front door after many cold school days and work nights, will always remind me of moments that I hold very closely,” says co-owner, Caleb Olney. “Still to this day soup is a regular occurrence in my own kitchen for my partner and friends; it’s a direct link to comfort, love and warmth. No one makes this soup better than my mum, Eilleen Gwennie May. This soup will change your life.” With love, Caleb “The Son”

Thanks so much to Olney for sharing this recipe - there couldn’t be a more fitting tribute for Mother’s Day!

Mum’s Moroccan Soup Serves 4-6

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 large brown onion, diced 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika 1 or 2 heaped tsp harissa paste, depending how spicy you like things (Olney usually uses 2 tsp) 2 cinnamon sticks 4 large tomatoes, diced 1 can of red kidney beans or mixed beans 1 tsp raw sugar 4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock 8 Culinaire | May 2021

* You’ll need about half a cup of cooked cous cous per serving A handful each fresh mint and cilantro, finely chopped A wedge of lime

* These are very important ingredients to add to the soup before serving. 1. Heat oil in a large pot and sauté the onions, harissa pasta, and dry spices until they become fragrant, not burnt. 2. Add chopped tomatoes, beans, sugar and vegetable stock, give it a good stir. 3. Bring to an easy boil then reduce heat to med-low and cook for at least

2 hours or until the tomatoes break down and help thicken the broth slightly, stir occasionally. Olney's helpful hint: You can add more vegetable stock if you feel it reduces a lot - the end goal is still quite a soupy soup but slightly thicker, and I think topping up the stock and cooking longer always makes a better end product. However please cook and taste before you top up. Serve the soup in a bowl over the cooked cous cous, top with a good five finger pinch of the fresh herbs, then squeeze the lime wedge over to finish.

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C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Mom’s the Word: BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

EHIND EVERY GOOD CHEF, there are sources of inspiration. On the surface, it may be travels to exotic places, trendy new ingredients, or a hole in the market begging to be filled with amazing flavours. Go back a little further, and you’ll find more often than not, the desire to cook was sparked during formative years. Every spark needs to be fanned to full flame, just like every budding chef needs to be nurtured. For May, we asked four Alberta chefs to go back to the beginning and tell us about the people that first inspired them to follow their passion: their mothers, and in some cases, grandmothers. From being subject to questionable dishes, to teaching basic techniques, to pouring love into everything they create, here’s to moms and maternal figures, and everything these amazing people do to shape and mould the future. Edmonton-based butcher and educator, Elyse Chatterton, was born in Lancashire in the UK, where her family owns a dairy farm. Growing up, she watched her mother and grandmother use their skills and knowledge to feed both family and guests. “My grandmother had a kitchen superpower of being able to feed any number of guests by simply cooking a pan of potatoes! To this day I have no idea how she did that.” Being part of a farming family taught Chatterton to enjoy food in all of its stages, from growing and producing, to cooking, and of course, eating and sharing. “My family’s food motto is, ‘Never undercater’. Farming families like to feed people and surround themselves with delicious, homemade food that they lovingly share with everyone who comes to visit.” On the farm, Chatterton’s favourite time of day was 3 pm, which meant homemade cake and biscuits devoured with cups of

10 Culinaire | May 2021

tea. It’s only fitting that she shares a recipe for biscuits that has been passed down through generations. “Make these biscuits for yourself, your family and your friends,” says Chatterton. “They will be requested again and again, I promise. They are super simple but deliver on taste and buttery texture every single time.”

Granny Makinson’s Sugar Cakes

(Seeded Goosnargh Biscuits) Makes about 30 biscuits

3 1/3 cups (450 g) all-purpose flour 1 1/3 cups (340 g) unsalted butter ½ cup (115 g) sugar 1 tsp caraway seeds Pinch of salt Sugar for sprinkling

1. Preheat the oven to 280º F 2. Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and rub the mixture with your fingers until it all comes together. 3. Roll out the dough to approximately 1 cm thick. Cut into rounds and place on a parchment lined baking sheet. 4. Bake low and slow until the biscuits are pale but dry - 45 minutes. The secret to a perfect Goosnargh Biscuit is to keep them as pale as possible. 5. Remove from the oven and generously sprinkle with sugar and cool on a wire rack. 6. Store in an airtight container.

Alejandro Buzzalino’s career path has been a decade-long adventure that took him around the globe from Calgary to Montreal, London, Honk Kong, Japan, Australia, and back to Calgary, where he’s currently the Chef de Cuisine at Vendome Café. While settled geographically, in terms of cooking, he says “I am far from finishing my learning journey.” It’s one that started when he was a child, and was encouraged by his mother, Ana. He credits her with keeping him grounded while he was making career moves, and says, “She is the big, creative driving force in my life.” Like any new chef, there were several misfires at the beginning. Ana stepped in, sharing simple recipes from the Best of Bridge series. “I think it was as much self-preservation as it was trying to teach the skills,” Buzzalino says. “She had to eat some questionable meals before I started to understand how to follow recipes.” Coq au Vin is one dish in particular that reminds him of learning to cook with his mother. A simple, delicious, and comforting dish, Buzzalino says the most important ingredient is patience. “If you can teach yourself to enjoy the time it takes to make things correctly, you will greatly improve your cooking game.”

Coq Au Vin Serves 2- 4

Filling:

1/3 cup (80 mL) canola oil 1.4 kg chicken thighs, bone in, skin on 300 g bacon, cubed 250 g cremini mushrooms, quartered 1 head of garlic, peeled whole cloves 250 g pearl onions, peeled 3 Tbs (45 mL) of Alberta Premium Rye 2 Tbs flour 2 Tbs fresh thyme, finely chopped 1¼ cup (300 mL) red wine (Burgundy if you have it!) 2–3 cups (500-750 mL) chicken stock 2 bay leaves To taste salt and pepper 1. Pre heat oven to 350ºF. Season chicken thighs with salt and pepper.

2. In a large heavy-bottomed skillet, warm canola oil over medium heat. Add chicken thighs making sure to not overcrowd the pan. Cook until browned. Remove and place in an oven-proof dish. 3. To the same pan add bacon and cook until the fat is rendered and it begins to brown. Drain, and set aside with chicken. Reserve bacon fat for next step. 4. To the same pan add in mushrooms, garlic and onions and 2-3 Tbs of bacon fat. Cook on medium heat until caramelized, using a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan. 5. Carefully deglaze pan with whiskey. Reduce all the way to ‘au-sec’, where the bottom of the pan contains no more liquid. 6. Add 2 Tbs of reserved bacon fat, flour, and thyme, and stir continuously to create a roux. Cook on medium-low heat until the flour begins to brown and you can smell it roasting, then deglaze with red wine, stirring to incorporate, and reduce by half. At this point, add chicken stock, bring to boil, and add bay leaves. Pour boiling liquid over chicken and bacon in an oven-safe braising tray. Cover with foil and braise in oven for 1–1.5 hours until the chicken is pull-apart tender. May 2021 | Culinaire 11

Jenny Kang, executive chef and co-owner of Calgary’s Orchard, grew up on a farm in South Korea with five siblings. There was never a shortage of chores to help with, and Kang’s favourite of those was helping her mother, Han, cook. “My mom always made me feel appreciated, and always encouraged me to get better in the kitchen,” says Kang. From Han, she learned to cook with her heart, and to appreciate the food that came from their land. “When we were young, my mom would always make sure we treated produce from our farm with care and love. This love translated to the final product and what I would serve to my family and my guests.” Han also taught her how to julienne vegetables, a skill put to use when preparing the traditional Korean dish, Japchae. Once a royal dish dating back to the 17th century, Japchae is something Kang’s large family would always eat on special occasions. It’s also the dish Kang honed her julienne skills on, and it holds a special place in her heart. “When I would make Japchae for my family, I focused so hard on cutting the vegetables perfectly, and always looked 12 Culinaire | May 2021

forward to this dish so I could improve my skills.”

Japchae Serves 4

200g glass noodles (sweet potato starch noodles) ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 1/3 cup (80 g) brown sugar 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil, divided 1 medium red onion, julienned 1 medium carrot, julienned 1 bell pepper, julienned 150 g fresh spinach 1 cup sliced mushrooms (chef recommends shiitake, shimeji, or button) 200 g thinly sliced chicken, beef, or pork shoulder 1 ½ Tbs sesame oil To taste salt and pepper 1 Tbs sesame seeds

1. Soak noodles in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Drain before use. 2. Quick marinate the meat with ½ tbs soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar for at least 30 minutes 3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. 4. Heat a large pan on medium heat and add 1 Tbs canola oil. Sweat onions and carrots until soft, and add peppers. Cook for 2 minutes on medium heat, then add spinach and cook for an additional minute. Season with salt. Once cooked, remove vegetables from pan and set aside in a large bowl to cool. 5. Add remaining canola oil to pan and add mushrooms, cooking on medium high heat until soft. Add meat and sauté until cooked. Remove from pan and add to bowl containing cooked vegetables. 6. Add noodles to boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Once cooked, drain and add to bowl with meat and vegetables. 7. Mix remaining soy sauce, brown sugar and sesame oil together, pour over contents of bowl, and toss to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle sesame seeds overtop.

Growing up on a farm meant Chef Jiju Paul learned the importance of using fresh ingredients from local farmers, a practice which he adheres to in his work as executive chef at Edmonton’s Fairmont Hotel Macdonald. “I try to keep my cooking style simple to allow the ingredients to have the main focus in each dish, and to respect their natural flavours,” he explains. As a child, Chef Jiju recalls arriving home from school to find homecooked meals prepared by his mother, Annamma. “It was her way of welcoming us home and letting us know she was thinking about us.” Annamma taught her son how to limit food waste and respect the hard work that went into producing each ingredient. “I learned a lot about complementary flavours and the importance of tasting throughout the creation of a dish from my mother’s carefree cooking style,” he says. For Chef Jiju, the kale and lentil fritter bowl represents his childhood and the way his mother loved to cook, while the colourful produce reminds him of the landscape of the family farm in Munnar, southern India. He adds, “This

dish allows for easy adaptation so that you can let your creativity guide you to add ingredients that you have on hand and flavours that you enjoy.”

Kale & Lentil Fritter Bowl Serves 4

1 cup split chickpeas or red lentils 1 cup fresh kale, thinly sliced 1 tsp fresh ginger, chopped ¼ medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 sprig curry leaves, thinly sliced ½ tsp Kashmiri chili powder ¼ tsp ground turmeric To taste salt 2 cups (500 mL) oil for deep frying (chef recommends vegetable, grape seed, or canola) 1. Rinse chickpeas thoroughly and soak for 4-5 hours or more. Drain completely – if any water remains, the fritters will fall apart while cooking. 2. Add chickpeas to a food processor and grind into coarse paste (do not over process). 3. Add remaining ingredients and pulse until incorporated.

4. With wet hands, roll out lime-sized portions and flatten with your palms to shape into small patties about 2 cm thick. 5. Add frying oil to a deep, heavybottomed frying pan and heat on medium. Once the oil is hot, add fritters in small batches and deep fry until they are golden brown on both sides. Remove from oil and drain on paper towel.

Yogurt Dip

1 cup (250 mL) plain yogurt ½ tsp ground cumin seeds ¼ tsp Kashmiri chili powder 1 tsp chopped cilantro 1 tsp sugar To taste salt Place all ingredients in bowl and stir. Refrigerate until served. Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. May 2021 | Culinaire 13

ALLPA

Vertical Farming: Mainstreaming Microgreens throughout Alberta BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

14 Culinaire | May 2021

ICROGREENS — THOSE LITTLE LEAVES AND STEMS that are most often seen carefully placed on plates with tweezers as a garnish at fine dining restaurants — are suddenly in high demand. The baby vegetable plants are harvested when they’re just starting to grow tiny leaves and not only look lovely on a plate, but they’re packed with flavour and nutrition. While microgreens have long been a common sight in restaurants, with some places even growing them in display cases as living décor, they’re starting to become a regular ingredient in home kitchens as well. Which is where ALLPA, a new vertical farming operation in Calgary, comes in. Fueled by a love of science, engineering, sustainability, and nutrition, the company was launched in 2019 by three young friends with varied backgrounds. Founder Andrey Salazar moved to Canada from Columbia as a refugee in 2007. Having grown up on a coffee farm he had a good understanding of agriculture and also a passion for science and engineering, leading him to study physics at the University of Calgary and electrical engineering at SAIT. Like many young entrepreneurs, Salazar is also concerned about climate change, and set his mind to thinking how he could channel his various interests and skills into a potential business. “Traditional farming produces a lot of CO2 along with herbicides and pesticides, and uses so much water,” Salazar says. “I had a conflict — how can we do this humble and character-building job without destroying the environment?” To help resolve that inner struggle, Salazar started building a vertical farming system in his garage. While there are

commercial vertical farming systems available, Salazar went the DIY route, building stacks of plant beds that relied on artificial light and irrigation. After taking a job at a local Lowe’s store to help fund his habit (the employee discount on building supplies and tools came in handy), Salazar met his co-founder Guillermo Borges (who originally hails from Venezuela) and ALLPA’s Head of Production Zakk Tambasco, who grew up on a cattle farm near Edmonton. The three got to talking about the possibilities that came from vertical farming (which is quite popular in other places in the world that don’t have Alberta’s access to farmland and large scale greenhouse space), the potential to brand vegetables for better marketing, and agriculture’s impact on the environment. “We kind of modeled it after what we thought were the best companies in the world,” Borges says. “We looked at initiatives like MEC and Tom’s and all of

a tough sell because many people think they fall into the realm of unnecessary garnish, but the ALLPA crew are aiming to change that. While there is a demand for local microgreens from restaurant chefs, the company is focused on the retail market and is trying to convert customers into microgreen users one tub at a time. They’re currently selling broccoli, arugula, sunflower, and radish greens, and each variety has a very distinctive and well-concentrated flavour. The most obvious application is to throw the greens into salads by the handful, but the concentration of nutrients means they can also go into green smoothies, on pizza, pasta, and tacos, but as a flavour enhancer rather than a mere garnish. Since a microgreen is so much more nutrient-dense than a full-size plant, the company believes in making them more accessible to the public as a means of “democratizing” nutrition. “Microgreens are usually looked at as this expensive, luxury

these other companies that aligned with our values, which means being charitable and giving back to the community, technology, focusing on local, and being environmentally sustainable.” ALLPA adheres to those core values by donating a portion of its sales to charities, using green-friendly packaging, and limiting the mileage that the product has to travel by growing in an industrial facility right in the city of Calgary. Microgreens seemed like the perfect crop for the trio to build their company, since the quick growth period and small size of the greens are ideal for indoor farming. ALLPA grows to order, which means it is also able to reduce food waste by only producing what they know will be sold. Microgreens traditionally are a bit of

thing,” Borges says. “But we do them quite cost effectively, and that’s where the technology comes in. By focusing on retail, we’re able to bring it to as many people as possible.” ALLPA started selling its wares at small farmers’ markets but their move to position microgreens as an “everyday” food seems to be working. Their products are now available at the Italian Centre Shop and Sunterra stores across the province, including the brand-new Sunterra location in Red Deer. For more information, visit allpaverticalfarms.ca. Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. May 2021 | Culinaire 15

On Board BY LINDA GARSON I PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM

RYSTAL MCKENZIE OPENED KENSINGTON’S PEASANT CHEESE SHOP in 2013, and the new Mission location at the end of last year. “I have been involved in the food industry for more than 30 years,” she says. “And in 2018, I was inducted into the Guilde Internationale des Fromagers.” She advises choosing half as many cheeses as people dining, up to 5 or 6 cheeses. “Ask your cheesemonger for recommendations as they know when the cheese was opened and if it is in good shape, and select cheeses from different families to have a broad range of textures and flavours,” says MacKenzie, adding: “Always take your cheese out of the refrigerator at least 45 minutes before serving. This allows the flavours to come out.” Her cheese and charcuterie are arranged across the board according to strength, so the mildest will be either on the top or left-hand side, and the flavour profiles increase as you nibble your way down. McKenzie’s board is perfect for brunch or before dinner. The three cheeses represent the bloomy rinds, high alpine and cheddar families, all very different textures and flavours. “I love enjoying the St. Angel with the Elquin ham, and throwing in a couple of the dried cherries for good measure,” she explains. “The Comte with bresaola is also a take on a traditional pairing of cured beef and high Alpine cheese – and don’t forget the cornichons.”

McKenzie’s charcuterie board includes: CHARCUTERIE: Elquin Ham: a delicious, full-flavoured ham from France. Bresaola: lean and tender, air-dried, aged salted beef. CHEESE: St. Angel: a soft and rich, pasteurized triple-cream, cow milk cheese from France with a bloomy rind. Comté: a nutty and salty, raw cow milk cheese from Jura in eastern France, aged in the humid caves of the Alps. Lindsay Goat Cheddar: an artisan “bandaged” goat milk cheese from Ontario, wrapped in cheesecloth for ageing. ACCOMPANIMENTS: Dried Fruit: figs, apricots, pears, and cherries. Fresh Vegetables: thinly sliced cucumber and purple ninja radishes, and halved grape tomatoes. Plus: Cornichons, olives, candied violet, and rose petals. 16 Culinaire | May 2021

ROSE

G&T so near you can taste it

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ROSE GIN

TO N I C

LIME & MINT

Pour 2oz of Glendalough Rose Gin into an ice filled glass and top off with tonic water. Garnish with a slice of lime and freshly torn & slapped sprig of mint. If you don’t get to pick up every copy of Culinaire, as we know they go fast, visit culinairemagazine.ca to have each issue delivered to your door!

The fresh mint garnish complements the naturally floral notes of the Rose Gin. A simple to make, refreshing gin serve. Sláinte. Enjoy Glendalough Responsibly.

“Udderly” Awesome Dairy STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

E “HERD” YOU NEEDED some great dairy recipes. There are so many uses for dairy in the kitchen. A tap of butter adds silky, richness to a sauce. A couple of dollops of Greek yogurt and some berries make a delicious snack anytime of the day. A dash of milk in your coffee or tea. This luscious Greek yogurt panna cotta whips up in no time and makes an elegant dessert for any occasion. Just add your favourite berries or jam to add some sweetness to the subtly tart taste of the yogurt.

Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta Serves 4

¾ cup (180 mL) cream ¼ cup (60 mL) milk ¼ cup sugar 1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 1 cup (240 mL) Greek yogurt 3 sheets gelatine or 1½ tsp powdered gelatine If using gelatine sheets: 1. In a small pot, add cream, milk and sugar, and warm over medium heat until sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot - do not boil. Remove from heat. 2. Meanwhile, soak gelatine sheets in cold water, squeeze excess water from gelatine and incorporate into the cream mixture. 3. Gently stir in the Greek yogurt until everything is fully blended and smooth and pour into serving dishes. Refrigerate for 3 hours or until the mixture has set. Serve with fresh berries or jam. If using powdered gelatin: 1. Add the gelatine to the milk and whisk until dissolved. 2. Add cream and sugar in a small pot and warm over medium heat until sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot - do not boil. 18 Culinaire | May 2021

Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta

3. Remove mixture from the heat, add the gelatine/milk mixture, stir until fully incorporated, then continue as Step 3 above.

Best Berry Milkshake Serves 2

A quick whirl in the blender and you’ve got a filling beverage for an afternoon snack. 1½ cup berries, fresh or frozen ½ cup (120 mL) whipping cream 4 scoops vanilla ice cream Whipped cream for garnish Fresh berries and mint for garnish 1. Add 1½ cups of berries to your blender, blend 10 seconds. 2. Add whipping cream and blend another few seconds to incorporate.

Add 2 big scoops of ice cream. Blend until incorporated but not so long that the ice cream starts to melt. 3. Top with whipped cream and lots of fresh berries and serve immediately. Best Berry Milkshake

Lemon Cream Cheese Cookies Makes 40 small

The contrast of the cream cheese and the lemon bring these cookies to life. ½ cup (125 g) butter, room temperature ½ cup (125 g) cream cheese, room temperature ¾ cup sugar 1 egg 1½ Tbs (22 mL) lemon juice 1¾ cup (250 g) cake flour ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 1 lemon, zested 1. Preheat oven to 325º F. 2. In a medium bowl or stand mixer, add butter and beat until fluffy. 3. Add cream cheese and continue to beat until smooth, and fully incorporated. Add sugar and continue to beat until sugar is fully incorporated. 4. Add egg and lemon juice and beat until mixture is smooth and all ingredients are combined. 5. Sift flour, baking powder and salt. Add lemon zest to flour mixture. Slowly incorporate the flour, in 3 segments, into the batter making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl in between. 6. Scoop batter into rounds onto a baking sheet and chill in the fridge or freezer 5 to 10 minutes. 7. Remove and transfer to a room temperature baking sheet to bake (or transfer scooped batter to a container to freeze for future use). Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, turning the tray in between. Remove from oven and baking tray onto a cooling rack straight away. Enjoy with a dusting of icing sugar once cooled.

Matcha Affogato Serves 2

Simple, elegant and satisfying. ¾ cup (180 mL) boiling water 2 tsp matcha powder 2-4 scoops ice cream 1. Add matcha powder to a small bowl. Add 2 Tbs (30 mL) boiled water to the matcha powder and stir into a thick paste. Add the rest of the water and

Lemon Cream Cheese Cookies

whisk for a smooth consistency. 2. Add 1 or 2 scoops of ice cream (chocolate or vanilla are a great match) to your serving dish. 3. Pour half the (still hot) mixture over each serving of ice cream and enjoy immediately.

Matcha Affogato

Note:

The ice cream is usually sweet enough to offset the bitterness of the matcha. If you would like it sweeter then you can add 1 tsp honey after you make the matcha paste, then continue with the recipe.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. May 2021 | Culinaire 19

Pre-made Cocktails

ou may have seen them at liquor stores, near the checkouts, sometimes in the liqueur section, or possibly with the obscure miscellaneous liquor; to be truthful, they don’t really have a home of their own. Such is the lot for the pre-mixed cocktail, which is only just beginning to see its potential. Thanks partially to film and television, the cocktail has returned to relevance. Not only are the classics getting revived, but with a seemingly infinite variety of liquor, bitters, tinctures, and mixers now available, new creations are being conceived by mixologists the world over. Given modern society’s desire for convenience and portability, the pre-made cocktail’s time has begun. While some of the more popular or complicated drinks, like Cuervo’s ready-to-drink Margaritas, prepackaged Caesars, and the Black Russian and Long Island Iced Tea mixes, have been

20 Culinaire | May 2021

around for decades, these new iterations are in a different class. Most of the older products are great for bartenders and house parties but aren’t really considered mainstream items. Nonetheless, they did plant the seed for this new wave of craft cocktails. Just as micro-breweries came of age at the turn of this century, artisanal distilleries have had a similar, albeit smaller, evolution. As Prohibition era regulations from the 1920s and 1930s were gradually repealed in North America, distillery numbers multiplied thirtyfold in only a couple of decades. This meant hundreds of new producers making gin, vodka, and unaged rum while waiting the mandatory three years before their whiskey could be sent to market. In order to expand their product lines, some turned to pre-made cocktails. Many recipes were developed in their tasting rooms, but patrons also wanted to consume them at home. Thankfully, regulation changes allowed these drinks to be pre-packaged for takeaway, or even delivered. With the current pandemic playing havoc with operational hours, room capacities, and tasting events, these products have become a welcome revenue generator. To be sure, the classics dominate the category, but craft distillers love variety. In Alberta, several new operations are now producing pre-mixed cocktails with

more coming later in 2021 and beyond. Product development does take time; sourcing the ingredients and packaging, recipe formulation, production schedules and costs all need to be considered. Even restaurant and bars are getting involved, as the AGLC amended its regulations last year to allow off sales of liquor (including cocktail kits) to be included with takeout and delivery (check out Pr%f in Calgary and Bar Clementine in Edmonton, among others). In addition, independent agencies such as Cocktail Concierge, can develop products with any liquor partner, thus creating three different distribution channels. What this hath wrought in the Alberta market is a small but considerable variety of options, and thanks to distinct ingredients and recipe modifications, each cocktail has its own unique qualities. Here are some pre-mixed cocktails worth searching out, with some key ingredients highlighted.

Note:

Products come in a variety of sizes and prices, between $8 and $50. Some are only available at the producing distillery but may be delivered Alberta-wide. Others can be found at local liquor stores.

Have Arrived BY DAVID NUTTALL

The Classics

Old Fashioned 26.6 %-38.9% ABV Barchef Toasted Old Fashioned (maple syrup, toasted chamomile, saffron bitters), On The Rocks (Knob Creek Bourbon), Tumbler and Rocks (Fort Distillery’s bourbon blend), Confluence (distilled barrel-aged barley wine aged in sherry casks), Bridgeland (their three grain whisky base), J.P. Wiser’s (Wiser’s Special Blend), Cocktail Concierge’s Agave (made with clove infuse mescal) and Smoked Walnut Old Fashioneds (hickory smoked and oak aged). For more Old Fashioneds, see the March issue of Culinaire. Manhattan 28%-40% ABV Tumbler and Rocks (bourbon whiskey blend, house bitters), Bridgleand Manhattan (their three grain whisky base, radicchio Amaro), J.P. Wiser’s (Wiser’s Special Blend), Park Distillery Glacier Manhattan (Park Glacier Rye, curaçao) Vesper Cocktail Concierge Wild Rose Vesper (Lemongrass Gin, Eau De Vigne, Lillet Blanc, Bitter Bianco, Apricot and Wild Rose Liqueurs, 27.5%), Barchef (spruce tip gin, Late Harvest Vidal, lavender bitters, 36%)

Cosmopolitan Tumbler and Rocks (addition of raspberries, 26%), On The Rocks (Effen Vodka, 20%) Margarita Tumbler and Rocks (tequila/agave blend, 20%), On The Rocks (Hornitos Tequila, 20%) Negroni Confluence (Campari), Park Distillery (Campari and barrel aged), Cocktail Concierge Chai Negroni (Indian Chai infused gin and barrel aged) Unique Drinks Cocktail Concierge - Cacao Boulevardier (whisky blend, amaro, sweet vermouth, raw cacao, orange zest and oak aged, 26.5%), Paper Plane (whisky blend, amaro, Aperol, limoncello, 23.5%) See also January/ February issue of Culinaire. Fort Distillery’s Tumbler and Rocks – Shaft (vodka, cold brew, coffee liqueur, honey), Daiquiri (Alberta distilled rhum). Both 20%. Skunkworks - Moon Tea (Lebanese Herbal Tea Moonshine), Darkside (Desert Moon Moonshine, Mid-Eastern spices, cola syrup, bitters). Both 40%. Park Distillery - Alpine Martinez (gin, cherry liqueur, orange bitters, 40.5%), Skoki (Park Maple Rye, Wild Turkey

Bourbon, cacao nib tincture, bitters, 34.3%). All rest in American Oak for 6 months Whispering Dutchman - Winter Spice Gin Cranberry Cocktail, Grapefruit Gin Cocktail, Classic Caesar, Blueberry Mint Vodka Cocktail Pr%f – Through their partnership with Confluence, they offer bottled Boulevardier, two different martinis, Negroni, Manhattan, syrups and cocktail kits. Also, look for new products from Lone Pine, West of the 5th, Broken Spirits, Rig Hand, Eau Claire, and Two Rivers distilleries in 2021.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

May 2021 | Culinaire 21

The Search

for ...

BY LINDA GARSON

UTTER CHICKEN IS A MUCH-LOVED DISH the world over, and it turns out never more so than in Calgary! Its roots lie in Delhi in 1948, the very early days of the famous Moti Mahal restaurant, where they needed to find a way of using leftover tandoori chicken which can become dry without any sauce, so the chef made a gravy of tomatoes, butter and cream that he had to hand, along with some spices to jazz 22 Culinaire | May 2021

it up a little. Also known as Murgh Makhani from the Punjabi (literally chicken [with] butter) or Chicken Makhani, you may also find this delicious sauce as Butter Prawns, Paneer Makhani (with white cheese), and Dal Makhani with lentils and beans. Butter Chicken isn’t a million miles away from the British national dish for the last 10 years, Chicken Tikka Masala, but that is a British invention –

less sweet, less creamy, and with more tomato intensity. In collaboration with Alberta Milk, we set out to find out how Calgary fared in the world of butter chicken – and embarked upon an amazing, pantsstretching adventure! We asked our readers and our followers on social media and television to nominate your favourite butter chicken in Calgary, and we were astounded at the response; we counted nearly 50 restaurants, cafés,

pubs, and take-outs, on your list of must-try places! We couldn’t do this alone, so we engaged three local experts to judge too: Karen Anderson of Alberta Food Tours; avid food blogger, Fahreen Rattani Remtulla; and Chef Guru Singh, owner of Gzooh ghost kitchens. “I had a bias going into this contest on what butter chicken should taste like. But I opened my palate and tasted each dish on its own merit. In the end, I came to love the ones that achieved balance between tomatoes and cream, and that slipped in a little more heat or an accent on a different spice like saffron, black pepper, turmeric or cinnamon,” Anderson says. We sampled dishes from rustic to elegant, from simple to complex, and from mild and soupy to rich and dark, with spices you can taste. We sampled dishes from North India, from South India, and from East Africa, cooked with chicken breast or chicken thigh, generally marinated first and cooked either in a tandoor or in the oven. Some dishes had cream integral to the sauce and some with cream added at the end and swirled on top. We loved the creative butter chicken dishes too, taking an already delicious dish and adapting it to fit our time, our place, and our circumstances; we discovered some fun variations and some positively addictive and unexpected takes on the traditional curry in the form of pies, pizzas, perogies, pasta, and poutine – and everything in between. For me, butter chicken became so much more than a dish; it became a verb, “Sorry I’m butter chickening, I’ll get back to you.” And a measure of time, “I’ll be with you in two butter chickens.” We visited nominated locations in all four corners of the city to evaluate the sauce, the chicken, the accompaniments, and presentation. We discovered a very wide variety of each, and met some passionate and proud people; indeed one of the best parts of the whole exercise is meeting chefs, servers, and owners that we may not have otherwise met. “I was fortunate to meet some of the best talent and loved the creativity

Mirchi

and thought behind each nomination,” says Rattani. “Each dish has its own take on butter chicken which not only showcased this amazing dish in the best light, but also highlighted that there are numerous talented chefs within our city.” What makes the perfect butter chicken? What were we looking for? • As with all food, we were looking for balance in the sauce: not too creamy and not too tomato-y. Not too sweet, but with a complexity and depth of flavour and spice. • The chicken should be marinated and, if possible, cooked in a tandoor for maximum flavour, although grilled and roasted are good too. It should be moist and tender, and plentiful in the sauce. • The accompaniments should also be flavourful and complementary to the dish. • And finally, our “overall” assessment was given twice the weight of each of the previous categories, and we each wrangled with “how likely would you be to recommend this to a friend”? We take this very seriously, and if we’re recommending the best of the best, every piece has to be good – and consistently good. We’ve split our awards into two distinct categories: • First, what we’ll call the “Classic” butter chicken: chicken pieces in a tomato cream curry sauce, served with basmati rice and/or buttered or garlic naan. • “Creative” – dishes using butter chicken in new ways!

It was a very close contest, and there were many really good dishes that we couldn’t include here. With the on-going restrictions posed by Covid-19, some of these restaurants may be working with reduced menus or limited opening hours. You may wish to call ahead or reach out directly to them. We’re delighted to announce the highest scoring “Classic” butter chicken: Mirchi Unit 1130 - 76 Westwinds Crescent NE “The dish is in complete balance! Not too tomato-y, not too creamy. The fenugreek is here, but not too much. The chicken is tender and flavourful, and there is a great finishing heat. This was my family’s favourite, we all loved it.” KA Highly Recommended winners are (in alphabetical order): Calcutta Cricket Club 340 17 Avenue SW “The complexity of the spices in each aspect of the dish, from the chicken marinade to the sauce, showed that each component of the dish had its own purpose. I love the use of whole spices, such as cardamom pods and bay leaf, to balance the sauce.” FR Cinnamon 1207 11 Avenue SW “The addition of cream to a buttery gravy gives a silky smooth, rich texture, and we love the use of honey in the sauce. It was served with scented basmati rice and amazingly fluffy naan cooked in an oven tandoor, a traditional accompaniment.” FR May 2021 | Culinaire 23

Moti Mahal, 1805 14 Street SW “The sauce is rich and deep, and really flavourful, as is the chicken cooked in the tandoor. I ordered medium spice and it was the perfect spice level for me. It came with fragrant rice and a first class garlic naan (I could have eaten that on its own!).” LG

Indian Express Breakfast Poutine

Clay Oven 3131 27 Street NE “I’m very impressed. There were tender and succulent morsels of chicken in a dark red sauce, with the tomato and cream kept in check. Nice spicing and a bit of heat to finish. It came with saffron rice and bread made in a clay oven - love it!” KA Indie Counter Culture “Butterface” 126 10 Street NW “The chicken is marinated for 48 hours before it is cooked in a traditional kettle tandoor, so the maximum flavour is embedded into the dish. I loved the sauce with its flavours of garlic and ginger, along with traditional North Indian spices.” FR Indian Express 1126 Kensington Road NW “The thick, creamy sauce is perfectly flavoured with just the right amount of kick to it, and the traditionally cooked chicken thighs are smoky with tandoori flavour. The garlic naan is made with fresh garlic and basted with the right amount of butter.” GS Madras Café Restaurant, 175 52 Street SE “The flavours in the sauce were very balanced, and it was robust and perfectly creamy. The oven-baked chicken thighs had just the right amount of spice, and the South Indian paratha is the best I’ve had since I came to Canada.” GS 24 Culinaire | May 2021

Safari Grill, 255 28 Street SE “Excellent sauce – well balanced and creamy with a little bit of heat at the finish. Chef marinates the chicken overnight in yogurt and spice masala, and it’s incredibly tender. It’s very elegant, I would definitely recommend and take a friend back (there).” KA Our highest scoring “Creative” butter chicken: Indian Express Butter Chicken Poutine, 1126 Kensington Road NW Available on weekend brunch menu. “I loved this dish, it was outstanding. Such a creative take on butter chicken, and a well thought-out dish. We loved the poached eggs and the addition of the cheese curds; the house-made hollandaise sauce added a depth of flavour.” FR Highly Recommended winners are (in alphabetical order): Indie Counter Culture Butter Chicken Poutine, 126 10 Street NW “The cheese curds were wonderful and balanced the acidity of the tomato sauce. The chicken was tender and the fries were delicious – a great invention! A beautiful presentation, I’d absolutely recommend. Share and eat again.” KA Madras Café Restaurant Butter Chicken Dosa, 175 52 Street SE “Outstanding! The sauce is not too creamy, so it works so well in a dosa (a huge Indian crepe). It comes with sambar (lentil-tamarind curry), coconut chutney, and tomato-ginger chutney. I virtually inhaled this and kept going back for more.” LG Pie Junkie Butter Chicken Pie 8 Spruce Centre SW “A great creative dish - anyone would love this. The butter chicken sauce is good, a bit less creamy, spicy, and very flavourful. The quality of the chicken is

top notch and the pie pastry is amazing! It’s highly recommended.” GS Shack Poutine and Butter Chicken Sliders, White Diamond Conference Center, 130 3 Avenue SE “Delivery only, butter chicken comes in many guises here – as curry, over perogies, with pasta, on a flatbread, with wings, and as mac ‘n’ cheese - but it was the sliders that really stood out for me. A really good bun makes them a great handheld.” LG The Samosa Factory Butter Chicken Samosas, Unit 135, 55 Westwinds Crescent NE “25 mini samosas come with tamarind sauce and pudina (mint) chutney – and they are addictive – once you start you can’t stop. The ground chicken breast is in a butter chicken sauce but the sauce isn’t runny, so the pastry stays really crispy.” LG

Our judges: Karen Anderson, who has led seven cuisine and culture trips to India and is co-author of “A Spicy Touch” cookbook. Linda Garson, who eats and drinks for a living, and ate every single nominated dish – and then some! Fahreen Rattani Remtulla, who is very experienced in the complexity and diversity of spices and Indian cooking techniques. Chef Guru Singh, who has been cooking both Indian and contemporary Canadian cuisine for many years. In collaboration with:

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Blueberry Lime Icebox Cake W STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

ith warmer weather on its way, it's good to have a simple and delicious no-bake dessert recipe that allows you to skip the oven, without scrimping on flavour. Alas, there is an indulgent cake that can be made without heating up the kitchen and uses another appliance instead - the refrigerator. Icebox cakes have been around for close to one hundred years. Invented in the 1920s, companies would give out recipes to promote their new kitchen 26 Culinaire | May 2021

appliance - the electric icebox. Back then, the average home cook didn't have a huge refrigerator. Instead, they used an insulated box that held a block of ice that was delivered by truck. The icebox cake became popular because achieving the desired cakelike consistency happened in this new appliance, and not the oven. Even when refrigerators replaced the iceboxes in kitchens, the name stuck with the light and creamy dessert, adding to its nostalgic charm.

The classic icebox cake is simply chocolate wafers layered with sweetened vanilla whipped cream. Nothing more and nothing less. Layered in a loaf pan, it was chilled and sliced, revealing a pretty pattern of cookies and cream inside. Home cooks would experiment with other types of cookies, boxed pudding, sweetened condensed milk, and different flavours of whipped cream. The variations are endless, and after one bite it's easy to see why this cake remains so popular all these years later. To celebrate summer and all of the gorgeous fruit that comes with it, I decided to create a blueberry lime icebox cake. It's a lovely combination of flavours, and just look at that presentation! Using graham crackers, a simple blueberry sauce, and sweetened limey whipped cream, this dessert takes just a handful of minutes to prepare. I love how the crackers are softened, but not soggy. They melt in your mouth, and you almost have to pinch yourself to check that you're not eating a traditional cake.

Blueberry Lime Icebox Cake Serves 8-10

There are 3 layers of graham crackers, 5 layers of whipped cream, and 2 layers of blueberry sauce. Each layer of graham crackers is about 5 full graham crackers (you can break some up to fit). This recipe yields 4 cups (1 L) of whipped cream and you will use about 3/4 cup per layer. The cake needs to be in the freezer for a minimum of 5 hours, so plan your serving time accordingly.

Blueberry Sauce:

2 tsp cornstarch 2 tsp (10 mL) fresh lime juice 1 Tbs (15 mL) warm water 2 cups (500 mL) fresh or frozen blueberries 3 Tbs granulated sugar 1 tsp lime zest

Cake:

2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream ¼ cup icing sugar 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lime juice 1 tsp (5 mL) lime zest 1 sleeve of graham crackers ¾ cup (175 mL) fresh blueberries, for garnish Lime zest, for garnish 1. To make the blueberry sauce: In a small bowl whisk together the cornstarch, lime juice and water. 2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the blueberries and sugar. Add cornstarch mixture and cook for 3-4 minutes until the berries release their juices and the sauce thickens. Be sure to stir the sauce continuously so it does not burn. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime zest. Let cool to room temperature then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight. 3. Line a 23 x 13 cm (9×5”) loaf pan with plastic wrap, with overhang over the edges so the cake can be lifted out easily. 4. Make the whipped cream: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, combine the whipping cream, icing sugar,

lime juice and zest. Beat until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. 5. Assemble the cake: Spread 2 spoons of whipped cream into a very thin layer on the bottom of the prepared pan. This will help the bottom layer of graham crackers stick. I use an offset spatula to get into the corners easily. Layer the graham crackers on top. 6. Spread about ¾ cup (175 mL) of whipped cream on top of the graham crackers. Next, layer half of the blueberry sauce on top, another ¾ cup (175 mL) of whipped cream, another layer of graham crackers, ¾ cup (175 mL) of whipped cream, the rest of the blueberry sauce, ¾ cup (175 mL) of whipped cream, graham

crackers, then the rest of the whipped cream. If desired, top with additional blueberries and lime zest. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the freezer for about 5 hours. 7. Let the cake soften in the refrigerator for about 1 hour or at room temperature for 10-15 minutes. Remove the cake from the pan using the plastic wrap overhang, cut into slices and serve cold. Cover any leftovers and store in the refrigerator or freezer.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

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On The Black Sage Road BY JEANNETTE LEBLANC

Phantom Creek

USH GREEN ACRES OF VINES stretch across the sun-bleached landscape of an arid valley desert in the south Okanagan. From the air it could be a study in geometry, an agricultural quilt where the pattern is dictated by water resources, and farms in transition from orchard to vineyard. The Black Sage Road runs along the east side of the valley, meandering southwards from the outskirts of Oliver toward Osoyoos. This 30-kilometre drive is home to some of the most lauded wineries in British Columbia and earliest vineyard plantings in the area. The region has a long history – a part of the unceded territory of the Syilx (sjilx) Indigenous people, and well before the Okanagan became a hotspot for new world cool-climate viticulture. British colonists took liberty to assign traditional Syilx lands

28 Culinaire | May 2021

to European ‘settlers’, and in 1877 the Osoyoos Indian Band registered under the Indian Act as a reserve. More than a century later they and seven other Bands are now part of the Okanagan Nation Alliance, formed in 1981 as First Nations government in the Okanagan. Indigenous peoples of this area have tended these lands for generations, and as we explore the region it’s on their lands we travel. The nsyilxcən (Nis-yeel-ten) language, part of the Salish language, was originally spoken here and the Band is working to bring the language back into daily life. Two regional parks have been returned to their Syilx names: Haynes Point is now (again) Sẁiẁs (swee-yous) Provincial Park, and McIntyre Bluff to its original place name of nʕaylintn (Ny-lin-tn).

EARLY DAYS

The Osoyoos Indian Band is an integral part of this region’s wine history. Of their 32,000-acre reserve lands, almost one-third is used to grow grapes. The Band was instrumental in developing the Black Sage Road as a serious viticultural area. Before Helmut Becker ran the Becker Project (1977 to 1982), proving more than 30 vinifera varieties could produce premium quality wine in the Okanagan, the Osoyoos Indian Band began planting Inkameep Vineyard on the Black Sage Road in 1968. It was one of the first in the South Okanagan and eventually grew to more than 350 acres. Later, Nk’Mip Cellars opened in 2002 with a 21-acre vineyard and was the first Indigenous owned and operated winery in Canada. After the Inkameep Vineyard,

another large-scale and risky planting was undertaken over 1993 and 1994 by stalwart wine industry leader Harry McWatters. He and a business partner planted approximately 115 acres of Bordeaux varieties on what was still relatively unproven land on the Black Sage Road. Their risk paid off as the vineyard saw good results and the wines made from those vinifera grapes achieved international acclaim. The original property was eventually divided into two separate but neighbouring vineyards; today you’ll find them as Black Sage Vineyard as part of Sumac Ridge, and the Becker Vineyard (formerly Sundial Vineyard) with Phantom Creek Estates.

TERROIR

As for the land itself, think mostly sand. This is the northernmost point of the Great Basin Desert but the deep sand here is a result of late deglaciation activity in the Okanagan Valley eons ago. The area was once a glacial lake, and the breaching of ice dams deposited thick glaciolacrustine silts and alluvial fans along this valley; the ‘fans’ (tall sandlike towers along the west valley ridge) can be seen on the Golden Mile Bench, particularly above Tinhorn Creek and Hester Creek. As more Okanagan Valley sub-regions seek geographical indication designations of their own (sub-GIs), these distinct differences like the sand and gravel deposits on the Black Sage Road play a key role in establishing the

Le Vieux Pin

unique terroir of the area. Elevation, aspect, climate, and people, are parts of that seemingly indefinable mix that gives wine a sense of place. Situated on the east side of the valley, Black Sage Road vineyard aspects are treated to long days in the Okanagan sunshine and intense heat. Ancient rock that heaved to the earth’s surface millennia ago now stand as silent sentries, acting as a heat sync to capture the sun’s warmth and sharing it with the vineyards long after dusk. It’s also a ‘pocket’ desert, averaging approximately 2,040 hours of annual sunshine and limited amounts of rain at fewer than 20 centimeters. Those deep benches of sand can be up to 90 metres deep, lending to well-drained soil with limited available nutrients. Combined with

low rainfall levels and deficit irrigation, vines are content to keep their roots dry while really stretching down to find water. Seeing such green vineyards, it’s difficult to remember this area is part of the network of deserts that extend all the way to the Sonoran Desert in Mexico. Dozens of wineries are a literal stone’s throw from one another and a solid independent culinary community is eager to share the region’s best, making the Black Sage Road easy to explore. Pack a lunch or pull up a seat at one of the local digs and allow the day to unfold, whether by car or on bicycle. Stop frequently. Ask those around you for recommendations because they’re happy to share. With that in mind, here are a few wineries you really should visit when you can.

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Le Vieux Pin

5496 Black Sage Road Named for one solitary, old growth pine tree on the estate vineyard, Le Vieux Pin has been exploring this terroir since 2005. Close your eyes, breathe deeply, and the warm breeze will show you what winemaker and viticulturist Severine Pinte discovered on her first visit: hints of France with a distinctly south Okanagan flavour. From a French-inspired wine focus to the swaying tips of lavender bushes, this is old world winemaking on a brave new cool climate frontier. Specialties here include succulent and savoury white wines (sauvignon blanc, a roussanne, viognier, and marsanne blend, and chardonnay) with opulent and refined red wines (syrah three ways) and the delicate yet intense Vaila – a pinot noir rosé. Smaller lot production means many of these wines disappear quickly. levieuxpin.ca

Bartier Bros.

Phantom Creek Burrowing Owl Estate Winery

Bartier Bros.

4821 Ryegrass Road (just off Black Sage Road) Bartier Bros. is the partnership of siblings Don and Michael Bartier, the former a business-minded accountant and the latter a respected winemaker. They’re Okanagan originals, having grown up in the valley, which means they know just about everyone around. Michael listens to the land they care for and the vines they grow on it. Some time ago the Bartiers purchased the Cerqueira Vineyard along Black Sage Road, a site Michael was intimately familiar with. The sum of all things here is robust, complex red wines (cabernet franc, merlot, syrah), sunshine-driven bright white wines (semillon, chardonnay, obrigado), and a couple of colourful characters (Rosé, Granite – an orange wine). These are popular wines that sell through quickly. bartierbros.com 30 Culinaire | May 2021

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 500 Burrowing Owl Place (just off Black Sage Road) A cornerstone name among British Columbia wine producers, Burrowing Owl has held a significant viticultural presence on the Black Sage Road for decades. The Wyse family began replanting vineyards here in 1993 but only licensed a winery four years later, readying it in time for the 1998 harvest. Today the winery has grown to include guesthouses and a restaurant. The team at Burrowing Owl takes their commitment to the environment seriously and were early adopters of environmental technology, like using the naturally sloping hillside to build a gravity flow cellar plus installing solar and geothermal heating. Key wines to try in this portfolio are pinot gris, chardonnay, cabernet franc, and Meritage. burrowingowlwine.ca

4315 Black Sage Road Phantom Creek is the vision of Richter Bai, who has assembled a formidable wine team and acquired a solid group of vineyard sites including the winery’s namesake – formerly owned and planted by Richard Cleave. Other notable vineyards under this roof are the Becker Vineyard (formerly Sundial) on Black Sage Road and Kobau Vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench. These are aspirational wines from a team aiming for the top. Try the vineyard-focused portfolio of wines like Block 1A Syrah (Becker Vineyard), cabernet sauvignon (allocated to their Grand Cru Club), or chardonnay (Becker Vineyard), among other ambitious efforts to capture this sense of place in a bottle. phantomcreekestates.com An Okanagan contributor for Culinaire since 2014, Jeannette has a keen interest in sustainable farming and winemaking. She’s happiest in dusty vineyards or warm kitchens, notebook and wine in hand.

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May Spirits

Keeping it Local

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

hile our May issue is usually about locally made and locally sourced products, this month we also wanted to call attention to some spirits (and Ready to Drink beverages) that might be totally new to Albertans.

In addition to some rather novel products, we also have a stunning, locally made rum, and an exceptionally smooth vodka for those that might be a little less adventurous. We have no idea what the weather this month will look like, but even less of an idea of how or where we might be enjoying a tipple. So we think we’ve covered the basics.

Black Diamond Distillery Bourbon Vanilla Vodka, St. Albert Nailed it! Richly laden with quality vanilla characters – but without any residual sweetness to muddy the waters. This vanilla infused vodka shows quite a bit of character and the vodka base is rather subtle in the mix. This will work very well (and perhaps save a step) in cocktails and simple mixed drinks. CSPC +832738 375 mL $32, +832737 750 mL $48

Hansen Distillery Salted Caramel Cream Liqueur, Edmonton While cream liqueurs might be seen as a bit of a wintery addition to your coffee, they are just as well suited to a cool morning addition to your backcountry coffee, or after a long day of summertime fun. Hansen’s Salted Caramel is a touch on the salty side for enjoying neat, but over ice cream or in a little coffee, it might be a new favourite tipple for your mug. CSPC 845413 $48-50

T-Rex Distillery Sabertooth Rye St. Albert Claiming to be made with a “next-gen” ageing method to cut the time required to keep the spirit in barrel, all we can tell you at the moment is that this is a very well-priced rye spirit. Without the time in barrel to call it a rye whisky, it still delivers all the spice and flavour one would like. This will be an excellent mixing spirit, at a price that can’t be beat - and it’s made in Alberta too! CSPC +844601 $22

Latitude 55 Kakwa Rum, Grande Prairie Love this locally made expression of blackstrap molasses rum! Richly flavoured with tarry, smoky, molasses flavours supplemented by gingerbread spice and fruit, with rich oak character and vanilla bean on the finish - a finish you can almost chew! A little more robust on the palate than rums made from sugarcane, but will lend that extra kick to cocktails and with mixers. CSPC +835480 $40

Two Rivers Distillery “Sinnamon” Sandstone City Malt Spirit, Calgary Another new offering from a local distillery, the Two Rivers Sinnamon is a one-two punch of cinnamon spice and boozy characters. It isn’t quite as palate-searingly hot as some other examples, but still has the flavour right, and the overall balance is bang on. Love those cinnamon hearts in February? You’ve found your spirit animal. CSPC 842025 375 mL $25 32 Culinaire | May 2021

Rocky Mountain Big Horn Ultra-Premium Vodka, Yellowhead County An award winning vodka at our 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards, and the Best in Class Vodka in 2019, this small batch vodka from Edson, Alberta, is subtle and complex on the nose. But it really starts to shine on the palate with mild peppery spice, soft tropical fruits, and wow, is it smooth too - right up to fine cereal notes towards the finish. Not too hot (40 percent ABV), but an exceptional, locally made sipping vodka or fine base for any number of mixed drinks. CSPC +835767 $42-44

e love how many local producers are jumping into the ready to drink and coolers game.

Black Diamond Distillery Earl Grey Mule, St. Albert You could buy a bottle of Black Diamond’s Earl Grey Vodka, mix it with ginger beer and lime juice to make an Early Grey Mule but they’ve done it all for us, adding their housemade ginger-pepper syrup and fresh lime to the vodka, and we now can buy it in cans. It’s gingery and peppery with a burst of citrus – we could drink a lot of this so get out your copper mugs and enjoy! Raspberry Lemonade Vodka Soda checked all the boxes for us too… CSPC +837291 355 mL $16

Skunkworks Skunk n Lime Cocktail Mix, Calgary A popular cocktail from the Skunkworks tasting room, their easy mix cocktails bring the experience home. With bright, moonshine spirit notes and a tart, almost sour lime flavour, it shows its best over ice and with either a little soda or ginger ale (even think about margaritas!). Several flavours such as Moon Tea or the Dark Side (of the Moon) are also available, but the Skunk n Lime might be a real summer go-to. CSPC +844504 200 mL $18

Eau Claire Distillery Whisky Sassafras, Turner Valley The brand new addition to Eau Claire’s craft cocktail line up, the Whisky Sassafras uses their newest whisky, Rupert’s Exceptional Canadian Whisky, as a base. Quite a bit drier than their other cocktails, the sassafras evokes a mild root beer flavour, but is very smooth, and very refreshing too with a softer whisky expression. CSPC +845845 4-pack 355 mL $15

This group represents just a fraction of Alberta’s Asian food community.

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BEING A I

BETTER

restaurant

patron BY CARMEN CHENG

34 Culinaire | May 2021

t has been over one year since COVID-19 altered many facets of our lives. Although many of us have had to adjust how we manage our day-to-day interactions and routines, Alberta’s restaurant industry has been faced with a constant need-to-adapt to changing restrictions and challenges over the past 14 months. The increased hypervigilance needed to implement new health measures and incur extra expenditures on approved safety equipment, sanitizer, and takeout containers to ensure the safety of their customers and staff, has had a toll. In addition, restaurants have also had to contend with limited capacities, challenges to the food supply chain, and somehow – responsibly managing staffing levels with the uncertainty of changing restrictions looming overhead.

"Support locally owned and operated businesses as they are the fabric of our community”

The effects of COVID-19 and increased health measures and changing restrictions have been necessary to ensure we mitigate the virus as much as possible. However, restaurants have been largely left on their own to navigate and enforce changing regulations in order to stay in business. As patrons of the restaurant industry, here are a few small ways we can each support businesses and be better customers to ease the challenges and strain that they face.

Respect your reservations

Management of reservations is a growing issue for restaurants including guests who fail to show up for reservations or take-out orders. As restaurant capacity is limited, optimizing each seat or order is critical, and chefs or management rely on reservation numbers to organize their staffing levels and food preparation. Understandably in the COVID-19 world, to ensure the safety of all it is appreciated when guests cancel their reservations if they are not feeling well. Having a heads up of a canceled

NEW! Fine & Dine Pairing Dinner at Delta South Atrium Saturday May 29 A superb and safe, 5-course dine-in live Fine & Dine paired dinner, with the food and drinks for each course served contact-free, directly to your room for you to enjoy on your private balcony while you watch and listen to us below in the atrium. And an overnight stay too!

Tapas

reservation also allows the restaurant an opportunity to make up for lost revenue by accommodating another reservation or walk-in guests. Some restaurants like Calcutta Cricket Club have implemented measures such as an automated email confirmation and a phone call from the restaurant the day before a reservation to confirm the booking. On top of this, guests who make reservations at Calcutta Cricket Club will also receive a text message reminder 30 minutes before their reservation time. With the several opportunities built in for guests to cancel, it is surprising that the restaurant still encounters guests who no-show their bookings. Other restaurants like Calgary’s

Caesar’s Steak House have had to implement a “no show fee” for weekends, holidays, or certain group sizes to mitigate risks of guests who cancel their bookings too late or who don’t show up for their reservations during peak times. As restaurants navigate decreased capacity, many have had to implement time limits in order to keep tables turning. Be mindful and respect the seating times in your bookings to help the restaurants manage their seatings.

NEW! Paired Take-Out Dinner Package from Pubblico Italian Kitchen Our February paired dinner packages from Pubblico all sold out, so we’re very happy to announce a completely new menu and package for May!

NEW! Virtual Live Vine & Dine at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen Saturday June 5 Just like our regular paired Vine & Dine cooking demo evenings with ATCO chefs here, but for you to take out and enjoy at home - and join us live online!

Paired Take-Out Dinner Package from Jane Bond BBQ Marketplace A 3-course paired dinner package with Jane Bond’s flash-frozen smoked meat meals, a fresh starter, and a whole jar of the best Caesar dressing!

For full details of events, to reserve your paired dinner packages, places at a Vine & Dine evening, or a private pairing dinner, visit culinairemagazine.ca/events. We’re continually adding new dates, so please check our website regularly. Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca If you’d like to be included in our fortnightly updates to hear about events and packages before the rest of the city.

Paired Take-Out Dinner Package from Hotel Arts A completely delicious, 4-course paired take-out package from Chef Quinn Staple!

Kindness is appreciated

With all the pivoting that restaurants are making to their menus and protocol, there is a lot happening behind the scenes to keep a restaurant operating.

During the pandemic, we’ve seen supply shortages on various foods at the grocery stores, ahem, flour and yeast - I’m looking at you. Add to this the complexity of predicting quantities of orders due to changing restrictions and overseas transportation for specialty ingredients that can make it challenging for some restaurants to access their typical ingredients. Food supply challenges may result in modified menu items. Whether it be getting a dish that doesn’t taste exactly as it used to, your take-out order taking a bit longer than usual, or another mistake that is apt to occur, being met with empathy and kindness is very much appreciated. Restaurants are often grateful to be given feedback directly so that they have an opportunity to correct a mistake, especially in today’s “age of information” where opinions and experiences are easy to access online, and where diners may read review after review before deciding which business to order from or to visit. Make it a point to write rave reviews of your dining experiences as you might a not-so-positive experience, and shout out your favourite restaurants often and regularly online. “Be nice, we really are trying hard to do our best and it's the scariest thing many of us have been through, we are trying to be strong too. Write reviews about your favourite places! Share about your favourite offerings or your favourite servers. The smallest acts of kindness help.” Tracy Little, Chef and Owner of Tapas in Canmore.

Be considerate of safety measures

One lesson that has been reinforced over the past year is that health and safety is paramount. For front line workers such as restaurant employees, working with the public may mean putting their personal safety in jeopardy when they come to work, or it may mean being in the uncomfortable position of having to enforce safety restrictions. “We don’t like having to remind you to sanitize your hands or that you have to wear your masks when you come into the restaurant. It’s not in hospitality’s nature to have to do that,” 36 Culinaire | May 2021

Calcutta Cricket Club Mill Street Brewery

says Dréa Philip, General Manager and Wine Director for Calcutta Cricket Club in Calgary, adding, “But it’s also the only way we can to survive right now.” As guests, take the time to educate yourself on the latest restrictions, follow safety requirements and cohort restrictions, and be considerate of those around.

Support your favourites!

"It would be a total shame if, by the Fall, when the vast majority of the population have been vaccinated and everything opens up, that these restaurants didn't have the lifeline to survive just a few more months longer,” says Ariel del Rosario, Co-Owner of Edmonton’s Filistix. When you own a small business, in the best of times you’re often wearing multiple hats to keep your business thriving. With the uncertainty of a global pandemic, most Alberta restaurateurs have likely been putting in all the energy they can muster into just surviving the past 14 months. Order take-out directly from the business, tip generously on your meals, buy gift cards for friends, make reservations, or share their posts on social media. Support your favourite businesses like their lives depend on it, because there’s likely some truth to that statement. “Support locally owned and operated businesses as they are the fabric of our community,” says Connie GiannoulisStuart, Proprietor of Caesar’s Steak House and Lounge in Calgary.

Caesars

What does the future of small business in Alberta look like? How long will it take for us to come out of the pandemic? These aren’t questions that any of us have the ability to answer. Before we can “go back to normal”, there is likely still more caution to be taken and more pivoting for the restaurant industry as they adapt to changing regulations. What we as customers can do is to assist our favourite businesses overcome the challenges they are currently facing with acts of kindness, compassion, and support, and we can also show care and consideration for the health and safety of frontline workers and other patrons.

Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media.

y l a t I f o e t s a t The Wine for young consumers, quite experienced and looking for products with a great price / quality ratio.

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2021-04-15 1:11:47 PM

MAKING THE CASE

For BC’s Local Wines

By TOM FIRTH

As the value of supporting local businesses continues to be apparent, it’s a good month to focus on our “local” wine from British Columbia. From tip to tail, the Okanagan wine region encompasses a number of micro-climates and terroirs, meaning from the cooler north to the downright hotter south, great wines from a wide variety of grapes are made year after year with an eye to quality. It may not be a good year for interprovincial travel, but we can still travel via our taste buds, and hunger for when we can get out and about like we used to. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Culmina 2019 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley

An Okanagan chardonnay that is kicking a** and taking names. Tightly wound, clean fruit, well supported by excellent oak characters - but never overwhelming the fruit. Love-love-love how it feels on the palate with great tension between the acids and fruit that rolls into a fantastic finish. The sort of wine that puts schnitzel or lobster in mind. CSPC +842286 $48-55

CedarCreek 2019 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley

CedarCreek have been making great wine since just about the very beginning of premium winemaking in the Okanagan. Just as important, they’ve also been providing great value at every tier they’ve made. The Estate Grown pinot gris is a juicy, fruity quaffer with plenty of fresh summer fruit, a little bit of silkiness on the palate and a bright, clean finish. Bring on summer! CSPC +561175 $20-22

CedarCreek 2018 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley Pinot noir is a grape that CedarCreek has been hitting out of the park since their early days. Some of the best examples I’ve had from the Okanagan have had CedarCreek on the label. Fans of new world pinot will like this one with a fruit blend of raspberry and plum, leafy herbal characters, and a long, sleek finish with mid-weight tannins. Match with duck confit if you can, or top quality sausage on the grill. CSPC +567412 $27-30

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca

38 Culinaire | May 2021

Lunessence 2018 Crescendo Okanagan Valley

Another four-grape blend from Lunessence this time with merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot. Rather lightly coloured in the glass with fine balance between fruit and earthier characters. Full bodied without being a fruit bomb or a tannic monster, it’s really about that balance which it has in abundance. Delicious. Try with better cuts of meat on the grill or some good cheese. CSPC +839415 $24-27

Dirty Laundry 2018 Say Yes Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley

Although the labels aren’t as “racy” as they used to be, the Okanagan’s Dirty Laundry winery is still making fun, accessible, and well-crafted wines. Take the pinot gris for instance, bright tropical-type fruit, zesty acids, and a deep, tart apple finish. It’s seriously good pinot gris, and will be a fine match indeed with creamier dishes or cured meats.

Culmina 2019 Saignée Golden Mile Bench

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars 2019 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley

A rosé made by pressing red grapes but not allowing the juice much contact from the grape skins where the colour typically lies. In this case, the blend comprises the red Bordeaux varieties that make up Culmina’s “Hypothesis”. Fresh summer berry fruit with a rich plumminess and mild jammy character, but clean, easy going, complex, and high-quality rosé to be sure.

A well-balanced, completely crushable pinot gris from the Okanagan checking off all the boxes and delivering a solid tasting experience. Apple-driven fruit, a mild nuttiness and hints of peach and tangerine, with a rich palate and a bit of weight behind it too. Would work very well with roasted fowl, or even grilled seafood.

Lunessence 2018 Quartet Okanagan Valley

Mt. Boucherie 2019 Rosé Okanagan Valley

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars 2019 Gewürztraminer, Okanagan Valley

CSPC +832081 $28-31

CSPC +805185 $25-28

CSPC +834299 $24-27

Noble Ridge 2018 “Noble” Meritage Okanagan Falls

Hillside 2018 Merlot Malbec Naramata Bench

CSPC +803854 about $26-30

CSPC +166207 $28-30

CSPC +225995 $24-28

I love interesting white blends. As one might suspect, there are four grapes in Lunessence’s Quartet, primarily riesling, with about a third gewürztraminer, and a touch of muscat and pinot blanc. It all comes together very well, with crisp mineral tones, plenty of citrus, and apple flavours. With no oak to soften things up, this is a zesty friend to have on the deck or patio with lighter fare.

Dirty Laundry 2018 Kay’s Syrah Okanagan Valley

With every bottle in each vintage, I love watching the progression of syrah in the Okanagan. Kay’s treads the fine balance between riper, fruit driven styles and floral, spicy ones. Clean, expressive fruit with a touch of smoke, and lots of earthy, almost chocolatey characters. The acids are finely honed and will work nicely with barbecued pizza or flatbreads, smoked or cured meats, and yes, a good burger. CSPC +231506 $32-35

CSPC +829358 $35-38

A breath of fresh air, a good rosé can evoke the nuance and aromas of summer in a heartbeat. Brightly showcasing berry fruit of strawberry and raspberry cheesecake (ask how my diet is going) with subtle floral characters. This quite dry, but not bone dry rosé is definitely a summer friendly wine to have on hand. Would be a nice match indeed with cured meats or a charcuterie board.

A blend focusing on merlot with about 17 percent of cabernet sauvignon brings all that deep plumminess merlot can offer with supporting roles from cedar, cherry, and an abundant cocoa and roasted coffee bean flavour that really makes the palate sing. It’s a little youthful at the moment, but under the screwcap you probably won’t see a lot of development near term, so drink it now with a nice cut of beef from the grill or smoker.

CSPC +818025 $24-27

Coming from the Okanagan’s Lake Country to the north of Kelowna, this is a fairly new winery for Albertans, from a region that often really shines with it’s cooler climate whites. A rather dry expression of gewürztraminer with spice, rose petal, and lychee aromas and a sleek and spicy palate. Would be a fine complement to seafood based dishes or fusion cuisine.

One of my favourite wineries to visit on the Naramata Bench, Hillside has a large portfolio of finely crafted and interesting to drink wines. The 2018 Merlot Malbec seeks to bring out the best of both these varieties – and manages it. Deep plum fruits show on the nose with a touch of cola and spice, but on the palate it really comes together with plenty of fruit and an earthy, tannic-laden finish. I’d match this up with beef from the grill or smoker. May 2021 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . . Vino Jelly Gourmet

We were excited to hear of artisan wine jellies from Fort McMurray, and with good reason. Available in three flavours: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Rosé, the jellies are food grade, with less than 0.5 percent alcohol by volume, and all the flavour. They only have four ingredients – wine (of course!), sugar, pectin, and citrus acid, and no preservatives - they’re not going to last long enough in our house to need preserving! Perfect with cheese, meats, and many other dishes. From Italian Centre Shops and Sunterra. 190 mL jars $9-10. Live Life, Love Food

One of the joys of our job is that sometimes samples arrive unexpectedly – and Live Life, Love Food, by Noni Campbell-Horner, is one of the best surprises we’ve received! It’s a cook’s book, and there are delicious recipes aplenty in each chapter from “Breakfasts and Baking”, through every course of a meal, ending with “Odd and Sods”, but it’s the short stories Campbell-Horner weaves throughout the recipes that are so captivating. We learn about her through 38 endearing stories: life in Vancouver and Edmonton, and many of the recipes are from friends and restaurants there; now on Pender Island, BC, and in Calgary. We laugh with her – “The Famous Stainless Steel Salad Bowl To The Rescue” (p.114) and “Naked Men” (p.128); share her disappointments - “Loss of a Car, Raspberries and Integrity” (p. 184); and our hearts go out to her – “Letting Ty Go” (p.136) and “Collateral Damage” (p.234). The recipes are simply explained with personal notations too, and often give two, or even three, methods of cooking. Some recipes have quantities, including all the cake recipes (I can’t wait to try “Yummy Cake on p.204), but many are left for you to use your intuition, and might be more suited to a seasoned or adventurous home cook. I loved seeing “a splash” and “a dash” of this or that, and “a blob” or “smash” of butter! Amazon $25 (paperback, black and white), cookbookcooks.com (hardback in colour) $35.

Wild Life Simple Syrup

No bar is complete without Simple Syrup, and now Canmore’s Wild Life Distillery have created their own, just released last month – cocktails at home just got much easier and quicker. In a classic 1:1 ratio, not only is it perfect for your sours, daiquiris, Old Fashioned, and French 75's (so perfect for Mother’s Day!), as a liquid sweetener you can use it in lemonades and iced coffees and tea, as well as in the kitchen for making sorbets, glazing cakes, and in fruit salads. Widely available across Alberta. CSPC +844892 500 mL $15. 40 Culinaire | May 2021

S’mores!

Gooey, Melty, Crunchy Riffs on the Campfire Classic by Dan Whalen. Marshmallows, graham crackers, and chocolate, fused together by the campfire, via some sort of alchemical magic, become this memory-making culinary treasure. Taking it a step further, Dan Whalen shows us the classic treat with many options, some better suited to the appetizer or hors d’oeuvres crowd. Sadly, someone has already managed to come up with “S’more-d’oeuvres” earlier, but any fan of campfire or fire pit evenings might love this book. Workman Publishing $20

Caramunchies

Completely addictive! Edmonton genius, Alysia Lok, gave up a career in finance to focus on making her Caramunchies, and boy are we glad. She makes small batch soft caramel and drizzles it over cornflakes for sweet and salty, crunchy yet chewy, bites of deliciousness. We love all the flavours, and you can get gift sets to treat your nearest or dearest. 5 percent of the profits go to feed the hungry too. Check caramunchies.com for core and seasonal flavours, to find a store near you, or to buy online. 85 g pack $7-8. Can’t stop, won’t stop!

Celebrate spring! SWEET & SAVOURY PIES

ALBERTA MAGAZINES CONFERENCE 2021 VIRTUAL JUNE 2 & 3

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O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with Dean Norris

BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

'm a true Newfoundlander,” says Dean Norris. “I live in Calgary and I love it here, but I will always be a Newfoundlander at the core." He graduated in Economics and Political Science from the University of Waterloo in the mid eighties, but had no interest in the corporate world, wanting a career with opportunities to travel and the flexibility to train and work as an actor. He waited on tables in Toronto, breaking to travel through Africa and around Europe, and when his closest friends from university all moved to Vancouver, he followed, studying theatre at Capilano University and continuing to waiter. Over the next seven years his hospitality career grew, and still acting a little, he became a manager at Shaughnessy restaurant in Vandusen Garden before moving to Calgary in 2002, and a job at Hy’s. Training with other actors had kept his life balanced, and he was invited to star in a Volvo advertisement. “It paid an exorbitant amount of money, and I became a member of the actors union,” says Norris. “I was getting some work, but after a few years I needed to make a decision about my life.” Intrigued with wine, Norris took the International Sommelier Guild courses. “And by the time I got to Level II, I was totally in love with it. It became the creative outlet that I was getting from acting,” he says. “But it wasn't just the wine, it was the academic side, the geography, the horticulture, and the history. There were so many elements

42 Culinaire | May 2021

to wine that I loved. I was hooked, and I did the diploma and then flew off to the States for the Court of Master Sommeliers certification.” Tasting groups with master sommeliers inspired him creatively, and he felt intellectually motivated. He’d read The Alchemist, and it had left a lasting impression of setting goals and not always achieving those goals, instead ending up somewhere else – and he embraced that. “My career took off. I joined Vintage [Chophouse] as Wine Director in ‘09 and then in 2014 a corporate position was created for me, and I took over all the restaurants. I had never thought this is where I was going to end up, but when I got here, I realized all the things that I needed to balance my life were present.” So what wine does Norris have squirreled away for a special occasion? Château d'Angludet 2006 has a special significance. “It’s the oldest [bottle] I have right now, but the irony is ‘06 is when this journey really started for me,” he says. “My first really big trip to Europe for wine was to Bordeaux and I felt at home. People might laugh at this, but it reminded me of the old part of St. John's

in a lot of ways, and I realized I was raised in a place that's part of the new world with very, very strong ties to the old world. And the trip was important because I made so many lifelong relationships; James Sichel is a very special winery owner for me, and he's become a friend. I've seen him many times when he comes to Calgary, and he represents the generosity, and integrity, and the intelligence of all the greatest things in the wine world,” Norris explains. “Château Palmer's the big wine but I like the understated too, and Angludet represents two degrees of separation from everything in the wine world that I love - from my place of birth, to my best friends, to the relationships I built. And it's also a very fabulous wine. I had a ‘95, and took it to Kelowna and shared it with my niece and her friends, and it was amazing. It's one of those wines that evolves and gets better with age - just like moi,” he laughs. “My first great niece was born in March. I'm dying to go home to Newfoundland this summer; this wine will come with me and be shared with my family at my first dinner party with my great niece – it will be a special occasion.”

MODERN STEAK A N A L B E R TA P R I M E G R A D E S T E A K H O U S E

Catch the Rooftop Vibe

Culinaire #10.1 (May 2021)

Articles inside

What’s new?

Making The Case

Local Cocktails

Mom’s the word

May Spirits

On The Black Sage Road

Being a Good Patron

Step By Step: Blueberry Lime Icebox Cake

The Search for Calgary’s Best Butter Chicken

Pre-made Cocktails Have Arrived

The Dandelion Cafe

On Board

ALLPA Vertical Farming

Udderly" Awesome Dairy

The Campout Cookbook

Salutes and Shout Outs

culinary scene