A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S J U LY / AU G U S T 2 02 1
Thrill of the Grill!
Alberta Taste Escapes | Incredible Ice Cream | The Effervescent Elixir
2 Culinaire | July/August 2021
July/August 2021 | Culinaire 3
contents
Volume 10 / No. 3 / July/August 2021
departments 8 10 12
Salutes and Shout Outs
18
22
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
Off The Menu
Delta Calgary South’s Grilled Summer Cucumber Salad
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks All up in your grill!
38 Making The Case
For backyard wines
40 Etcetera...
What’s new?
42 Open That Bottle
30
George Teichroeb of Alberta Distillers Ltd
16
Ready, Set…. Chill!
Coolers and cocktails by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
18 Supporting Alberta Producers
Put some of the best food you can get on your plate by Joel Fournier
Does grilled meat make you hungry? It certainly does for us, so we’re very grateful to Chef Dustin Schafer of Modern Steak for cooking up a superb tomahawk for our cover this month, and to photographer Dong Kim for capturing it in all its mouth-watering glory!
Is the haskap Canada’s next great berry? by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
30 Destination: Ice Cream
Some unique Alberta ice cream experiences by Adrianne Lovric
20 Yellow Gold
32 Can-do!
22 A Taste for Adventure
34 A Tonic Water
Enjoy these pearly kernels by Natalie Findlay
ON THE COVER
28 Broken Tine:
Plan your summer staycations around these Alberta restaurants by Lynda Sea
26 Step By Step:
Pork tenderloin with charred pineapple salsa by Renée Kohlman
Canned wines are here to stay by Tom Firth
for What Ails You
Enjoy them outside! by David Nuttall
36 Summer Spirits…
Showing their best in the great outdoors by Tom Firth and Linda Garson July/August 2021 | Culinaire 5
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Time to relax…
W
ow, summer has started with a vengeance – the last couple of weeks have been hot, hot, hot! And along with the heat has come the easing of restrictions, including travel (I can almost hear the collective sigh of relief ). Have you made plans to take a break, maybe visit relatives and friends you haven’t seen for sixteen months? If so, this issue is perfect for you. We’ve included suggestions of where to eat if you’re road tripping or driving around the province, as well as where to find some of Alberta’s newer and maybe lesser-known ice cream experiences. We’re always looking for ways to support our local producers, and with Food Day Canada on July 31, we have ideas too for visiting farms to learn more of where your food comes from, and put Canada on your menu (see fooddaycanada.ca for ideas).
Please, please be kind when making reservations; the hospitality industry has been decimated over the pandemic, with thousands of workers let go. If you knew how this has affected the mental health of those in the industry, you’d be shocked at the number of suicides. And now restaurants are able to fully open and rebuild, there is a serious staff shortage, so your server may be new and learning the ropes. I’m still dismayed to hear that people are making reservations and not turning up, leaving restaurants with staff they didn’t need to bring in and wasted inventory. Let’s be more considerate and supportive of our businesses? Cheers
Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
We were able to run a perfectly safe Vine & Dine pairing dinner and overnight stay, with everyone dining on their balconies at the Delta Calgary South Atrium, and I’m thrilled to receive this email: Hi Linda, We had a wonderful time Saturday night. Needless to say we have not done much during the pandemic, so this was a perfect getaway particularly because the hotel allowed dogs (and we have not had an opportunity to take our pandemic dog to a hotel till now, and she did pretty good). The food, with the wine selections, was simply amazing. Many thanks again for a wonderful evening, SJK, Calgary
Backyard grillin’ is about to get LIT! Piedmontese beef, Alberta pork, bison and elk we’ve got everything you need to keep the BBQ sizzlin’. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK - OPENING SUMMER 2021
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Joel Fournier Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Adrianne Lovric, David Nuttall Lynda Sea, Keane Straub
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors
SHOP. EAT. LOCAL.
Adrianne Lovric
Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publiclytraded companies. Fuelled by caffeine and curiosity, she always says yes to dark roast and opportunities for new adventures. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
Joel Fournier
A self-described foodlover and home cooking enthusiast, Joel is a freelance writer who is always hungry to try something new. With a passion for travel, food, film, music, and culture, he seeks to travel the world and share his experiences. Joel is always looking for a new restaurant to try or a new recipe to test, and is happiest when watching a good movie with a hot meal and a cold drink.
Lynda Sea
Lynda is a freelance writer/editor based in Calgary. Currently, she manages web and social media for the Faculty of Nursing as a digital communications specialist at the University of Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, WestJet Magazine, EnRoute and Flare. You can usually find her out hiking in the Canadian Rockies or eating her way through Alberta. Follow her @lyndasea.
Buying Local Matters... Fresh and Local Market + Kitchens is Calgary’s Local Food HUB. Experience Calgary’s most innovative chefs and food artisans, browse through local producers, and take some local produce home. Local just tastes better!
FRESH.LOCAL.AT NIGHT.
We are lighting up your summer nights, with night markets every Thursday and Friday (4 - 8pm) from June through September. Local summer produce, food trucks, and so much more! Shine a local light – on your summer nights!
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Calgary’s Local Food HUB in Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p
Shop online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca
SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S
Congratulations to Big Rock Brewery’s new Brewmaster and Director of Brewing Operations, Graham Kendall, on taking over from Paul Gautreau, who retired earlier this year. Congrats too to Von der Fels’ (VDF) Will Trow and Douglas King, who are moving to The Ranchmen’s Club as General Manager and Head Chef. VDF closes at the end of July so be quick to reserve for your last meal here! Rümi is the newest member of the ATCO family, and they’ve partnered with local businesses in Calgary and Edmonton to deliver home maintenance and repair services. From heating to painting, electrical to plumbing, and roofing to yard care, check out rumi.ca. In 1969, Calgary bartender Walter Schell, created the Caesar cocktail at the Westin Hotel’s Owl’s Nest Restaurant, and now you can enjoy not only the original but a vegan version too on their newly opened Owl Patio & Bar! Bask in the sun or around the firepit and nibble on signature Cumin Chili Roasted Chick Peas, Applewood Smoked Beef Jerky, and Tempura Mushrooms (yum!), and enjoy a local craft beer with your bison burger, flatbread or heart healthy bowl. 3-9 pm, closed Sundays. Laid Fresh and Chikin are now available in both Calgary and Edmonton! These new menus from award-winning, Miami chef Michael Lewis, are available noon-2:30 am (for your late night cravings too!). We really enjoyed the Hot Mess with Fried Chikin, hot sauce, blue cheese, Napa slaw and yuzu pickles; the Fully Loaded Waffle Fries; Kimchi Coleslaw; and Avocado Salad… thatsgoodchikin.com. High school students can now gain hands-on experience at Teatro Group’s Culinary Trades Program with The Educational Partnership Fund. Partially funded by the Government of Alberta, students train at six Teatro Group restaurants to enter the hospitality workforce straight from high school. 8 Culinaire | July/August 2021
Evario Kitchen + Bar is open in Edmonton’s Holiday Inn South, featuring Chef Sonny Sung’s menu of locally sourced, farm fresh ingredients. We’ve a hankerin’ for his 72-hour roasted, succulent lamb shank, but you can choose from classic and modern Italian, Asian, and local dishes too. 11 am-10 pm, seven days. Roy’s Korean Kitchen is fully open in the ex-Mr. Chen's space on Calgary’s 4 Street SW. We’ve been missing Chef Roy Oh’s modern Korean dishes since Anju Restaurant closed, and we’re looking forward to our fave Crispy Tofu with Sesame Maple Kimchi, Soy Maple Brussel Sprouts, and Oxtail Tortellini again! Calgary’s Southcentre Mall has launched a new interactive art installation, Eat & Seek, mirrored at sister Kingsway Mall in Edmonton, as a joint effort to support eateries and promote Alberta artists in both cities.
Hwang’s Korean, Japanese, and Frenchinspired decorated cakes and breads in Royal Oak, at 8650 112 Avenue NW. 9 am-8 pm. Fonda Fora, Thank You Hospitality’s (Native Tongues, A1 Bodega, and more…) new Mexican restaurant is now open at Calgary Hilton’s Tapestry Collection, Westley Hotel. Chef Rafael Castillo is from Yucatan, and his contemporary Mexican menu has a seafood focus with imported heirloom yellow and blue corn, house-ground for their tortillas. Beverage Director, Allie Martin, has created a superb drinks menu with local beers and Mexican staples, natural and orange food wines, and stunning cocktails influenced by the food. Dine in or on the patio for signature dishes, 3-course comida corrida lunch, and chef’s tasting menu, or sip Monogram coffee with pastries from 6:30-11 am. In Edmonton, Black Box Hospitality Group has opened Young & Restless Pizza, operating from District Café & Bakery, on 109 Street NW, serving up a small selection of hot pizzas and cold beers with first come-first served picnic tables. 5-9 pm, Wednesday-Sunday.
Curated Catering, by Hotel Arts, is SAIT’s new food services provider, providing an array of breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus for campus catering and In Calgary’s Bridgeland, Villa Firenze events, as well as at the soon to open Begin has opened Toto Pizza. Focusing on Tower Dining Centre. traditional pies and the family’s classic dough, with Nonna’s favourite recipes, Calgary’s Wow Bakery has three locations you can also enjoy appetizers and a in Chinook Mall, Chinook Park Plaza, and selection of salads and desserts. Marda Loop, and now you can find Chef Tuesday-Saturday. toto-pizza.com.
O F F TH E M E N U
Cucumber Salad STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY LINDA GARSON
W
e have a new favourite summer starter! At the end of May we ran a fantastic, super safe, wine pairing dinner at Delta Calgary South, where everyone dined at their tables set on their balconies overlooking a central atrium, so we could chat about the wines and dishes. We started with a cucumber salad as a welcome amuse bouche, and paired it with a sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne (sparkling wine made in the traditional method, from Burgundy). It was a stunning start to the evening, and we received many requests to know how the salad was made, so we’re very grateful to Executive Chef Michael Frayne for sharing this fresh and bright recipe!
Chef Frayne’s Grilled Summer Cucumber Salad Serves 2 as a larger appetizer, or 4 small plates
1 large English cucumber (365 g approx), cut into 3 equal pieces 1 tsp kosher salt ¼ cup (60 mL) white vinegar 1 Tbs fresh dill, chopped (3 branches, picked) plus extra for garnish 1 tsp whole caraway seed 2 Tbs Maldon salt, or other flaky finishing salt 1 Tbs fresh chives, sliced 140 g Icelandic yogurt, like *Skyr 1. Preheat barbecue to high heat. 2. Take one of the pieces of cucumber, 10 Culinaire | July/August 2021
and using a mandolin or a very sharp knife, thinly cut into slices about 3 mm thick. 3. Sprinkle with kosher salt, add the white vinegar, the fresh chopped dill and mix well, and let stand, either 20 minutes at room temperature or up to two days in the refrigerator. 4. Toast the caraway seed, and when fragrant, grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and add to the flaky salt, covering immediately to infuse it. 5. Slice another 1/3 chunk of cucumber lengthwise into 4 long equal slices (it will be about 6 mm thick) and grill until lightly charred on the edges and the cucumber has started to soften, slice across the cucumber to give nice diamond shapes. 6. Thinly slice the remaining piece of
cucumber lengthwise on a mandolin or with a knife as thin as possible. 7. Drain the pickled cucumbers, and then combine in a bowl with the grilled and fresh cucumbers, the chives, and a small pinch of caraway salt, and mix to combine. 8. Spread some of the skyr onto the plate in a circle, add your mixed cucumbers, top with more skyr, a healthy pinch of the caraway salt, and garnish with several sprigs of fresh dill. * Skyr is a high protein, low-fat dairy product made the same way as yogurt, from skimmed milk. It’s thick and creamy, as it’s strained to give a more solid texture. Widely available at grocery stores.
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
All Up in Your Grill! O
BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOS BY DONG KIM AND KEANE STRAUB
Photo courtesy Ken Noland
ur ancestors first cooked meat over an open flame about 700,000 years ago. No one really knows how exactly this came about, but one thing is for certain: once Homo erectus got a taste for all things flame-broiled, there was no going back. From asado in Argentina, to yakiniku in Japan, and all the places in between, grilling food over fire is a global tradition, one that brings people together for good food and good company. Whether you’re relatively new to the concept of cooking al fresco, or you’ve been at it for years, there’s a good chance your knowledge is a combination of things a relative or friend told you (and perhaps a little advice, friendly or otherwise), and trial and error. And really, this is what’s at the heart of barbecuing: sharing experiences and experimenting with the myriad of options for cooking outdoors.
Barbecuing With the Nolands (bbqingwiththenolands.com) is a Calgary-based, grill-focused blog run by husband and wife team, Ken and Tara Noland. Ken Noland, a retired accountant, developed a love of cooking when he met Tara, and from that stemmed a passion for outdoor cooking. Along the way, he has gained his fair share of grill experience. Noland cooks everything outdoors, from breakfast options to desserts, and anything in 12 Culinaire | July/August 2021
between. “Cooking low and slow on your barbecue or in a smoker develops flavours in your food that you simply cannot get any other way,” says Noland. Being able to adapt to the cooking environment is something every outdoor cook has to contend with – rain, shine, and in Noland’s case, strong winds on a chilly October Thanksgiving weekend. Taking on the task of smoking the turkey for a crowd of people, he found it difficult to keep a consistent temperature. “I had to build an impromptu windscreen on my back deck,” says Noland. “It worked, thankfully, and everyone enjoyed a wonderful smoked turkey dinner.” When it comes to cooking things like seafood, veggies, fruit, or anything that is soft or fleshy, Noland says to oil the grill with spray or a cooking brush
dipped in oil, and to do this before you turn your grill on. Whether you oil or not, once the grill is on, let it preheat: “You shouldn’t put anything on the grill or in the smoker if it is not preheated,” advises Noland. Be patient, he adds, and allow meats to cook on one side before turning them. “If you try to turn your meat and it is sticking to the grill and tears, it is not ready to turn. Once it is cooked to the right temperature, it will release with a gentle pull and should not tear.” And, once you’re done cooking and the meat is removed from the grill or smoker, Noland says to let it rest to allow the juices to be absorbed back into the meat. “If you cut your meat right after cooking, you will lose all the wonderful juices and a lot of the flavour, too!”
At Paddy’s Barbecue and Brewery in Calgary, owner Jordan Sorrenti and his wife, Kerry, serve up Texas-style barbecue and in-house craft brew in a casual setting. With a menu that boasts smoked and slow-roasted brisket, pork side ribs, and pulled pork, Sorrenti has an epic outdoor grill game, both at work and at home. “Outdoor cooking is the best,” he says. “It’s always a challenge, but with planning, you can cook anything on a grill that you could cook in your home. And you can’t beat the ambience of the outdoors and that campfire smell.” Sorrenti explains, “I cook two different ways on my outdoor grill at home: fast and furious, and low and slow.” The former method is best for getting a quick sear on steaks, to “get the fat flying.” Low and slow sees Sorrenti turning his grill into an oven with indirect heat, achieved using two of the three burners. This method also allows Sorrenti to use a cast iron pan to cook: “My cast iron pan has hosted frittatas, stews, countless veggies, roast chicken, pizza, and even fruit crisps for desserts.” Sorrenti’s best tip for cooking outdoors, no matter the method, is to keep it simple when it comes to the meat. “Most of my meats are seasoned simply with Kosher salt and coarse black pepper.” The exception to this, of course, is his recipe for beer can chicken, which uses a blend of herbs and spices. And you’re in luck – Sorrenti has shared that blend with us!
Paddy’s Beer Can Chicken Serves 2-4
1 whole chicken ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil Paddy’s Secret Meat Rub 1 can beer (Sorrenti recommends Paddy’s Vienna Lager)
Paddy’s Secret Meat Rub 1 Tbs dried oregano 1 Tbs dried thyme 1 Tbs dried basil 1 Tbs cayenne pepper 1 Tbs black pepper 1 Tbs white pepper 2 Tbs onion powder 2 Tbs garlic powder 3 Tbs salt 4 Tbs dried mustard 5 Tbs paprika
1. Mix all rub ingredients together in a large bowl. 2. Thoroughly rinse the chicken, inside
and out. Pat dry with a paper towel and rub lightly with oil. 3. Generously dredge the entire chicken, inside and out, with the rub. 4. Open the beer, pour out or drink half, and insert into chicken cavity. Stand the bird upright on an aluminum pie plate or similar. 5. Start your gas grill and turn all three burners up to high. After 5 minutes, turn the far burner off and leave two adjacent burners on high to build up heat under the hood until it reaches about 400º F. At this point, you can add apple wood chips to the burner side if you like. 6. Place the plate with the chicken on the side where the burner is turned off, close the lid and cook for about 1 ¼ hours, or until the internal temperature on the breast and thigh reaches 165º F. 7. When the chicken is cooked, remove from the heat, let rest under foil for about 15 minutes, and then serve with your favourite sides, and more beer, of course! July/August 2021 | Culinaire 13
Photo courtesy Pitt Country
Pitt County BBQ in Edmonton is a North Carolina style whole-hog barbecue catering company that cooks onsite for bigger gatherings (when safe to do so), but also offers drop-off options, allowing them to not only showcase, but share, the regional style BBQ with Alberta. “[Outdoor cooking] allows you to connect with your surroundings,” says owner and operator Peter Zukiwski. “[It’s] about slowing down, connecting with friends and family, and disconnecting from technology.” While Zukiwski knows his way around a whole hog, and has even taken on a whole lamb, one of his favourite things to cook outdoors is vegetables. “You can cook most vegetables directly on the coals,” he explains. “It gives them a nice unique flavour and it removes having to do dishes!” Cooking with coals can be a bit of a challenge, especially when it comes to lighting them and keeping them going. In this case, Zukiwski recommends using a coal chimney to keep you from losing your cool. “There’s no shame in utilizing something that’s proven to work. And while it’s lighting it gives you time to prep and season the meat.” Zukiwski also says experimenting is key when it comes to finding flavours you enjoy. “I personally like a 50/50 blend of cherry to hickory pellets or chips but use the blend or wood that you enjoy using the best. At the end of the day, you’re the one eating it.” 14 Culinaire | July/August 2021
North Carolina Style Pulled Pork Serves 4
1 pork picnic/pork butt To taste salt and pepper North Carolina Style Vinegar Sauce
North Carolina Style Vinegar Sauce
1½ cups (375 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 tsp kosher salt 1 tsp cracked black pepper 1 tsp brown sugar 1 tsp chili flakes 1 tsp garlic powder
Special Equipment Charcoal Charcoal Grill Charcoal Chimney Temperature Probe
1. In a small jar, mix vinegar sauce ingredients. Mix or shake to combine. Let sit at least 15-30 minutes before
use. Mix or shake before applying to the meat. 2. Trim any loose excess fat or meat hanging off the cut of meat. Season the meat liberally on all sides with kosher salt and cracked black pepper. 3. Load a charcoal chimney with your favourite lump or briquette charcoal, and light. Once completely lit pour into your charcoal BBQ. Heat BBQ to 275-300º F, adjust your venting to obtain this temperature. Once the BBQ temperature is reached place the pork onto the BBQ and cook for 1 ½ - 2 hours, monitoring it so it doesn’t burn or char. 4. Preheat oven to 250º F (either on bake or roast setting). Once oven is heated remove pork from the BBQ and place in a large roasting pan. Cover the pan with tin foil. Roast the pork until the internal temperature of the pork reaches 195º F. 5. Once the pork reaches the desired internal temperature, remove from the oven and let pork rest. Shred pork and season with North Carolina Vinegar Sauce.
Edmonton’s You Need a BBQ is not only a retail business specializing in wood pellet grills (those fired by small pieces of hardwood like hickory, cherry, and mesquite), but also offers grilling classes. “I love seeing others make amazing food,” says Russell Bird, who is both owner and pit-master. It’s one of the main reasons he started the business and began offering classes. “It’s a way to make sure everyone has access to the skills and knowledge of what it takes to make amazing, world class food.” Bird explains that there’s a lot to decide when it comes to outdoor cooking, from what to cook (poultry, fish and seafood, beef, pork), to how to cook it (gas grill, charcoal, or smoker), to how to flavour it (rubs, sauces, and injections). “When you cook outside you can add more flavour cooking with fire and more importantly, smoke,” he explains. Still, he says not to fret about the type of grill you have. Instead, “Be prepared to experiment with different woods, seasonings, sauces and more, to find the combinations that are right for you.” “Knowing what is going on the outside of your meat is easy,” Bird adds. “Knowing what is going on inside of your meat is the biggest challenge in barbecue.” For this reason, he recommends keeping a thermometer nearby to monitor internal temperatures. “[It’s] a barbecuer’s most important tool.”
Sticky Asian Braised Pork Belly Serves 4
1 pork belly, sliced into 2cm thick slices ¼ cup (60 mL) yellow mustard ¼ cup all-purpose BBQ rub (Bird recommends Motley Que All Purpose Rub) 453 mL bottle Asian-style rib glaze (Bird recommends Kosmos Que Sticky Asian Rib Glaze) ½ cup (120 mL) butter, melted 1. Preheat the smoker to 350º F. 2. Season the pork belly with yellow mustard and then a heavy rub down of the BBQ rub. Let the this set at room temperature for about 20 minutes. 3. Place the pork belly on the bbq and let it cook for about an hour. Check the pork
for colour - if you notice it is getting dark on the bottom you can flip it over and cook for another hour. 4. Remove the pork belly after 2 hours and slice into 2 cm cubes. Place them in a foil tray with the butter and the rib glaze. Stir until well combined and cover in foil. Place the tray back onto the smoker and lower the temperature to 330º F. 5. Let the tray of sticky Asian pork belly braise for about 1 hour to 1 ½ hours until you have little sticky nuggets of tender delicious pork belly. Remove from the smoker and enjoy.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. July/August 2021 | Culinaire 15
Ready, set…..Chill! BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
Boldr Vodka Soda, Canada A counterpoint to the “nude” movement of low sugar, restrained flavour, ready to drink coolers, Boldr is trying to be a little….bolder. Still chasing that demographic with 100 calories and 3 grams of carbs, but with a straightforward, bigger flavour. Available in Black Cherry, Grapefruit, Mango, and Peach, we found them very refreshing on a hot day and easy to enjoy. Special nod to the black cherry and peach flavours, expressions I don’t often enjoy, but very well done. CSPC +843662 (12-pack cans) $27-30 Truly Tea Hard Seltzer, United States Evoking the Long Island Iced Tea of my younger days, these hard seltzers hit the spot on those hot days. Plenty of iced tea flavours with various fruit options, a little carbonation, and the right amount of alcohol notes. One big plus is that these aren’t rife with sweetness either, but nicely balanced with the other flavours. The Lemon Tea was the favourite, but the other flavours stand up nicely to round out the selection. CSPC +846250 (12-pack cans) $27-30 Tommy Bahama Travelers, United States Just in time for summer come four Tommy Bahama cocktails, all just vodka with sparkling water and natural flavours. Following the “guilt-free” trend of low… calories (100 calories per can), sugar, carbs, and alcohol (5 percent ABV) it’s, they say on the can, 100 percent vacation! The cans are distinctive and all wearing Hawaiian shirts, ready for chilling (you and the cans) in the sun. We really enjoyed Hibiscus Lime (+853565), but look for Island Orange (+853566), Mango Citrus (+853564) and (+853567) Island Tonic too. (4-pack cans) $15-18 Last Best Distilling Gin Cocktail Collection, Alberta Last Best Distillery have now released their much acclaimed gins as premixed canned cocktails – perfect timing for summer outings! We’re really enjoying 'Savage Love' which now appears as a Tom Collins (CSPC +848403), sparkling, super refreshing and citrus forward, with notes of sage and lavender. The citrus, cucumber, and verbena flavours of ‘Afterglow' make for a terrific Gin and Soda (CSPC +848415), and 'Fortunella' is perfectly suited for the mandarin-flavoured, effervescent Citrus Iced Tea (CSPC +848394). (4-pack cans) $14-16 Eau Claire Distillery Bottled Cocktails, Alberta New from Turner Valley’s Eau Claire Distillery are two ready-to-serve bottled cocktails – a classic Negroni (CSPC +852690) with a hint of cherry for the gin drinkers, and a warm and welcoming Old Fashioned (CSPC +852683) for whisky lovers. These are the real deal, well made and balanced, full strength cocktails ready for you to pour over a cube of ice in chilled glasses, and garnish with a twist of orange peel. Put your feet up and relax, the work’s been done for you, and we won’t tell if you take the credit! 375 mL $27-30 Twisted Tea “Slightly Sweet” Hard Iced Tea, Canada For those whose childhood included copious amounts of powdered ice tea mix in the summer months, you might want to check out the new breed of hard iced teas. Lots of iced tea flavour shows up in the can, but best of all, a reasonably well balanced sweetness makes it easy to enjoy a couple of these non-carbonated summer treats. Maybe bust out the ol’ slip n’ slide too for your next adult gathering! CSPC +845322 (6-pack cans) About $14-15 16 Culinaire | July/August 2021
SCAN TO
PURCHASE
TICKETS
rediscover E D M O N T O N ’ S F O O D F E S T I VA L
PRE-SALE TICKETS ON SALE NOW - SAVE $10/SHEET OF TICKETS JULY 22 - AUGUST 1, 2021 | CHURCHILL SQUARE | TASTEOFEDM.CA
Supporting Alb BY JOEL FOURNIER
The pigs at Bear and the Flower Farm (Rockyview County), are ethically raised to ensure the highest-quality pork. Their feed ingredients are 100 percent locally sourced and free of any additives, so these pasture-raised pigs are as happy and as healthy as can be. The pork they produce is high in Omega-3 fatty acids, so not only is it better tasting, it’s healthier for you too. Whether you’re looking for some bacon or pork chops, or are looking to splurge on a whole pig, you can be sure that you’re getting some of the best pork available in Alberta. bearandtheflower.com.
A
lberta has no shortage of high-quality local producers, and supporting them has never been easier. From farms and ranches to breweries and wineries, Albertans have a wide range of excellent options for amazing locally produced food and drinks. No matter your taste or what you’re looking for, there is undoubtedly someone producing your next favourite food somewhere in the province. Supporting local is better for the environment, supports the local economy, and lets you put some of the best food you can get on your plate. Here’s a quick look at some of Alberta’s many excellent local producers: Garlic Goodness (Red Deer County), grows a dozen strains of all-natural garlic with flavours to suit any dish. From the mild Rocambole to the hotter Georgian Fire, you’re bound to find a garlic that perfectly fits your palate. They also raise Scottish Highland beef cattle and grow seasonal vegetables like onions, potatoes, tomatoes, and carrots. garlicgoodness.ca.
18 Culinaire | July/August 2021
Poplar Bluff Organics
In the heart of Red Deer is Troubled Monk Brewery, who, since 2015, have been brewing a wide range of delicious beers. The majority of their ingredients are sourced here in Alberta, and they brew everything from lagers to IPAs to ales. If beer isn't your thing, they also produce a variety of other alcoholic beverages, from hard sodas like their Saskatoon Soda (perfect for a hot summer afternoon) to gin (perfect for a refreshing summer cocktail). troubledmonk.com. Poplar Bluff Organics (Wheatland County), specializes in farming a wide variety of root vegetables. They provide the Calgary area with high-quality beets, parsnips, carrots, and potatoes, including the highly sought-after Kennebec potato, which is perfect for making the crispiest French fries. Their veggies are used in many Alberta restaurants (including NOtaBLE and River Café), so you may have already tried their fantastic produce and not even known it. poplarblufforganics.com.
While you might not initially associate Alberta with wine production, Barr Estate Winery (Strathcona County), produces some terrific wines made from raspberry, rhubarb, strawberry, and sour-cherry. Their wines pair well with all manner of foods, whether you’re looking for something to go with your next roast, something to enjoy with dessert, or just looking for a wine to enjoy on its own during a warm summer evening. barr.ca. If you're looking to try a new cheese to accompany your wine, Dancing Goats Farm (Kneehill County), produces an excellent selection of farm-made goat cheeses. The goats are raised on the farm's large open pastures, which helps to make their milk the best it can be. The cheeses themselves are produced in small batches so that the cheese is as fresh and as tasty as possible. If you've never tried goat cheese before, then this is the perfect place to do so. Alberta is famous for its high-quality beef, and Tall Timber Cattle Co. (Mountain View County), raises first class highgrade beef. Their cows are ethically raised and grass fed to ensure the beef is of the highest quality. They sell a wide array of cuts, from individual steaks and sausages
berta Producers Troubled Monk Brewery
Beary Berry Honey Inc.
to half and full cows, so, no matter what cut you're looking for, you can treat yourself to some delicious Albertan beef. talltimbercattleco.com If you’re looking to add some all-natural sweetness to your kitchen, then the honeys at Beary Berry Honey Inc. (Beaver County), are just the thing to scratch that itch. All their honey is harvested and processed locally at their farm, and they produce an ample variety of honeys and honey-based products. Whether you’re looking to try one of their many flavoured or infused honeys, looking for a honey glaze or vinaigrette to perfect that next dish, or are just looking for some fantastic plain old honey, they have a honey for your sweet tooth. bearyberryhoney.com. If you love berries, then Saskatoon Farm (Foothills County), is a fantastic place to spend a day. Not only do they grow delicious saskatoon berries (as well as other berries), you can visit and pick them yourself. They also grow other seasonal produce such as strawberries, arugula, and radishes in late spring and broccoli, cucumbers, and tomatoes in the summer. After you’ve picked out your berries you can relax and have a meal at the Mexican fusion restaurant on-site or get a treat at their bakery, which
Saskatoon Farm
uses the fresh produce from the farm to make a wide variety of baked goods. saskatoonfarm.com
Joel is a freelance writer and a self-described food-lover and home cooking enthusiast. He has a passion for travel, food, film, music, and culture.
Barr Estate Winery
Alberta Open Farm Days (August 14-15), allows Alberta producers to not only showcase their products, but to invite members of the community to come in and see the process behind how their products are made. The weekend-long event, which has been held annually for almost a decade, showcases producers from across the province (including several of the producers mentioned here), and allows visitors to meet the people who make the food and drinks we all enjoy. As things slowly begin to return to normal, Open Farm Days is a great way to spend some time outside, meet and support our local producers, and to treat yourself to some delicious food and drinks in the process. albertaopenfarmdays.ca. Another way you can support local Alberta producers, while also treating yourself to some delicious meals, is through Alberta on the Plate. This ten day (August 6-15), province-wide dine-around festival showcases local restaurants featuring multi-course menus centered around Albertaproduced food and beverages. So not only do you get the satisfaction of supporting our local producers, but our local restaurants as well. Whether you’re looking for a casual meal or looking to treat yourself to some fine-dining, you’ll be eating some of the best food Alberta has to offer. albertaontheplate.com. July/August 2021 | Culinaire 19
Yellow Gold STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY
Fresh Corn Salad Serves 4 (as a side)
4 cups corn kernels or 4-5 corn cobs 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) lime juice To taste salt and pepper 4 slices bacon, thinly sliced ½ small red onion, thinly sliced 200 g cherry tomatoes, halved 2 avocados, skin removed and sliced 5 sprigs lovage (or sub parsley or cilantro)
1. If using cobs, boil or roast and cut kernels from cob before adding to the salad. If you are using frozen kernels then boil for 8 minutes or roast 12 - 15 minutes in a 375º F oven. 2. In a small bowl, whisk together minced garlic, olive oil and lime juice to make the dressing. Add salt and pepper to taste. 3. In a small pan, add bacon and cook until crisp. 4. In a medium sized bowl, add corn kernels, red onion, bacon, and cherry tomatoes and mix together. Add the dressing, avocado, and lovage, and gently stir to combine.
Corn and Mushrooms Serves 3 (as a side)
Fresh Corn Salad
Y
ou know you are getting into the heat of the summer when fresh corn stands start to pop up at the side of the road. The sweet, starchy bite of each corn kernel, preferably liberally coated in butter, reminds us of being a kid again. A favourite preparation is simply to boil the peeled and husked cobs of corn
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in a large pot of water for 8-10 minutes, jab those holders into each end, roll the steaming hot cob around in a block of butter and enjoy. Everyone can live a happy, fulfilled life on just that one corn experience. However, if you are hankering for other ways to enjoy those pearly, yellow-gold kernels then forge ahead with these recipes.
4-5 corn cobs corn or 4 cups frozen kernels 4 slices speck, thin sliced 1/3 cup butter 125 g shiitake, oyster, enoki (or your preferred mushroom) 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 Tbs fresh marjoram leaves To taste salt and pepper 1. Preheat barbecue to medium. 2. Remove husk from corn and roast, turning the cob every few minutes, for 15 minutes. Remove from BBQ. When cool enough to handle, trim kernels from cob. 3. In a medium sauté pan, over medium
Corn and Mushrooms
low heat, add the speck with a touch of olive oil and cook until crisp, about 2 minutes. Remove from pan and reserve. 4. In the same pan add the butter and once melted, add your mushrooms and cook 5 minutes. 5. Add the garlic and marjoram and cook 3 minutes. Add the corn kernels and cook 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 6. Remove from heat. Garnish with the speck.
Corn Stuffed Sweet Peppers Makes 6 half peppers
3 sweet peppers Drizzle olive oil To taste salt ½ red onion, peeled and diced 2 chorizo sausages 2 cloves garlic, rough chop 1 cup black beans, cooked 2 cups corn kernels 1 tomato, rough chop ½ small sweet potato, peeled, cooked and cubed ½ tsp chili powder ½ lime, juiced ½ cup feta cheese, crumbled 2 scallions, thinly sliced Garnish cilantro or parsley
1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Cut sweet peppers vertically through the stem. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and place on a baking tray. Cook in the oven 15 minutes while you prepare the filling. 3. In a large sauté pan, over medium low heat, add onion and cook 3 minutes. Remove chorizo from casing and add to the pan, breaking it up with your spoon so it resembles ground meat.
Corn Stuffed Sweet Peppers
4. Add garlic and cook 5 minutes. Add black beans, corn, tomato, sweet potato, and lime juice, and stir to combine. Remove from heat. Add the feta. 5. Remove sweet peppers from the oven and fill with the mixture. Place the stuffed sweet peppers back in the oven and bake another 15 minutes. 6. Remove from oven and garnish with scallion and cilantro or parsley. Serve with a side salad.
Corn Chowder Serves 4
2 slices bacon, thinly sliced 1 small onion, peeled and diced 2 small carrots, peeled and diced 1 stalk celery, diced 3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 6 sprigs thyme 4 sage leaves 2 tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 1/3 cup (80 mL) white wine 5 cups stock (vegetable or chicken) 2 small russet potatoes, peeled and cubed 3 cups corn kernels 1 lime, juiced ¾ cup (180 mL) cream Garnish parsley
Corn Chowder
1. In a medium sized pot, over mediumlow heat, add bacon and cook 3 minutes. 2. Add onion, carrots and celery and cook 3 minutes. Add garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and sage and cook 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper. 3. Add white wine and deglaze pot and reduce 3 minutes. Add the stock, cook 10 minutes. Add potatoes and cook 15 minutes. 4. Add corn and cook 10 minutes. Remove 1/3 of the soup and transfer to a blender, or a bowl if using a hand blender. Blend until smooth. 5. Return to the pot. Add lime juice and cream and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. July/August 2021 | Culinaire 21
A Taste for Adventure:
PLAN YOUR SUMMER STAYCATIONS AROUND THESE ALBERTA RESTAURANTS BY LYNDA SEA
Cilantro and Chive
P
lanning on an Alberta staycation this summer? As things slowly open up again, supporting local restaurants and bars that have been working tirelessly for more than a year to survive the challenges of pandemic restrictions will be even more significant. From curbside pickup and picnic in a park to patio dining or safe indoor dining, here’s where to eat and drink, whatever your comfort level is at, and whichever direction you set out.
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NORTH
If you’re looking to escape Edmonton for the day, Devon is less than an hour drive out of the city. Before strolling the University of Alberta Botanic Garden or the Clifford E. Lee Nature Sanctuary, stop and pick up coffee and treats at Frickin’ Delights Donuts. The vegan doughnuts here are made fresh and a take on the old-fashioned nutmeg cake version finished with coconut milk-based fudge glazes.
Just off the QEII, visit the charming historic city of Lacombe. Once you tire the family out at the corn maze at Kraay Family Farm or learn about biodiversity and birds at the Ellis Bird Farm, fuel up at Cilantro and Chive where local produce and seasonal ingredients feature on the changing menu. Standouts include their #caesarsthattastelikeameal options - the super-filling Bacon Double Cheese is two patties, strips of bacon, cheddar slices, lettuce, tomato, onion and basil aioli on
Huckleberry’s Cafe, Wetaskiwin
a pretzel bun served perched atop their signature craft caesar. And while Wetaskiwin is home to Canada’s Aviation Hall of Fame, based in the Reynolds-Alberta Museum, a hidden gem in town for eats, is Huckleberry’s Cafe. This full-service steak and prime rib restaurant features homey fare but don’t miss their famous Dill Pickle Soup. Order in house or take it home in one-litre to-go containers and of course, try the namesake Huckleberry pies.
EAST
Southeastern Alberta is an underrated area but if you’re exploring the badlands, parkland and grasslands, you’ll definitely find fewer crowds here. Once you’ve wandered the Tyrell Museum and explored the scenic gorges of Horseshoe and Horsethief Canyon, pop into the French café Au Croque Monsieur in downtown Drumheller. Delicious flatbreads with microgreens, sandwiches, soups and salads are great for lunch, and sweets like croissants, cakes, custard brioches, eclairs, cannolis, pain au chocolat and more can be found in their display case. Linden may not seem like a destination in and of itself, but make the drive out to Country Cousins Restaurant for a meal you won’t soon forget. Garret and Karen Rempel own the Mennonite family-run restaurant. They make all their buns in house and smoke their own brisket,
Umami Shop, Lethbridge
The Pass Beer Co., Blairemore
pulled pork and chicken. You’ll find comfort foods like perogies and cabbage rolls but they’re most known for their pies - namely the Peanut Butter Cream Pie. Last year, they created their fruit and cream “Pie in a Cup,” which make great takeout desserts.
Westwood. On Saturdays only, there’s usually a lineup for their freshly made donuts, which sell out right away. Then, stop into Fahr Brewery in Turney Valley where Jochen Fahr creates his awardwinning traditional German beer brewed with equipment he’s engineered himself.
SOUTH
Four of the province’s six UNESCO World Heritage sites are in Southern Alberta but along with mountains, forest, prairies, canyons, foothills and badlands, you’ll find an array of local restaurants worth the drive. If an urban adventure is more of your pace, check out trails around the High Level Bridge in Lethbridge, pop into the Southern Alberta Art Gallery and then refuel at Umami Shop. This deli, cafe and kitchen is also a boutique grocery store and has great eat-in or takeaway fusion options like banh mi subs, poke bowls, bibimbap, ramen, butter chicken pasta, bubble tea and more. For a quick jaunt from Calgary, poke around the shops and streets of two sister towns along the Cowboy Trail. In Black Diamond, enjoy modern pub fare like smash burgers, fried avocado bites and halloumi fries on the sunny patio at
Crowsnest Pass, which is made up of the towns of Blairmore, Bellevue, Coleman, Hillcrest and Frank, is an area that’s an outdoor paradise with attractions and eateries to keep you busy all summer. The Pass Beer Co. in Blairmore just opened in 2020. Order their Crowsnest Coffee Wings which are seasoned with a spiced coffee mix from the local coffee roaster, or the Quarantine Pizza with truffle oil, garlic, dates, mushrooms, blue cheese, mozza, finished with a balsamic drizzle. Just off Highway 3, Coleman’s Limber Pine Smokehouse’s huge menu boasts barbecued and smoked meat platters, sandwiches, tostadas and tacos, burgers and breakfast offerings too. In the southwest hamlet of Waterton, where the prairies meet the mountains, indulge in some of the best hiking in North America, relax with breathtaking lake views and then satisfy your appetite at the many local tried-andtrue establishments. Zum's is owned July/August 2021 | Culinaire 23
Zums, Waterton
by the Cruickshank family, who have a rich six-generation history of operating in Waterton Lakes National Park; fried chicken is their specialty and made with a family recipe that’s been unchanged since the ‘80s. Another Waterton local, Julie Millar, whose family has been in town since 1927, runs The Taco Bar. Enjoy her casual Mexican fare with slow-cooked meats and locally sourced ingredients on the huge outdoor patio. The burrito bowl is bursting with spinach, black beans, rice, fresh lime, cilantro, homemade salsa, sour cream and topped with crunchy tortilla chips, with your choice of shredded chicken, garlic pork or beef or veggies.
WEST
Nothing beats the Canadian Rockies for natural wonders to immerse in with its mountain peaks, glaciers, lakes, trees, wildlife and waterfalls at every turn. And the world-class dining in its nearby mountain towns is also unparalleled. Start your day in Jasper at the Sunhouse Cafe, a contemporary Australian cafe with great coffee options and breakfast sandwiches. Don’t miss the avocado sourdough with preserved lemon and pistachio black sesame dukkah. Then once you’ve visited Jasper’s deepest canyon, stop in to Maligne Canyon 24 Culinaire | July/August 2021
The Taco Bar, Waterton
Rocket Pie, Canmore
Wilderness Kitchen for the 16-hour slow cooked Alberta beef brisket.
Farm & Fire opened in the Elk + Avenue Hotel and got a lot of buzz for its comfort fare of wood-fired pizzas, rotisserie chicken and cocktail menu. But if noodles are more your thing, stop into Sundance Mall for ramen and Japanese appies at Ramen Arashi.
Canmore’s culinary scene is chock full of great spots and two of them are in the same complex at the new 65,000 square-foot development, The Shops of Canmore. Mad Dog Cafe & Market moved here from its Dead Man’s Flats location in 2019. Find Indian curries, naan-wiches, poutines, samosas and more at its counter-service diner. You can also get frozen ready-made meals and daily creations from the freezers. Ex-ski racer David Carruthers opened Rocket Pie in 2020, in the midst of the pandemic and has thrived throughout the fluctuating restrictions - a testament to the loyal following obsessed with their pies. The Diavola is a must-order with its spicy sopressata, sweet pickled onions, mozza, ‘nduja and chili flakes on a perfectly crispy crust which is made from a dough recipe that’s been tweaked over the last 10 years. In Banff, CRMR’s newest offering The Prow just opened this June at Buffalo Mountain Lodge. Chef de Cuisine Lance Montero of Calgary’s Cilantro and Bar C pedigree is at the helm and the menu features game meats, shareables and in-house pasta dishes. Last summer,
Along the David Thompson Highway, once you’ve visited Abraham Lake or Crescent Falls, refuel your car and your stomachs at the Nordegg Canteen with fresh doughnuts, baked goods, all-day breakfast and frozen treats. A good lunchtime option is the bacon chicken avocado sandwich paired with poutine, fries or salad. After mountain biking in the small hamlet of Bragg Creek, visit the small-batch craft bakery Bragg Creek Cafe and Baking Co. They’re known for their Sunday sweet buns but also their cookies, cakes and scones. Don’t miss the Czechoslovakian apple walnut strudel; for a meal, you can’t go wrong with their Nashville Hot Chicken or Cubano sandwiches.
Lynda Sea is a writer/editor based in Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, Westjet Magazine, enRoute and Flare. You can often find her hiking in the Canadian Rockies and eating her way through Alberta.
Alberta’s only province-wide food festival celebrating local food & drink
dine around food festival across alberta • august 6-15, 2021
@abontheplate albertaontheplate.com
Step By Step:
Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Charred Pineapple Salsa STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
W
ith gorgeous stone fruits and summer-fresh berries flooding the farmer’s markets and grocery store shelves, it’s easy to overlook the wonders of fresh pineapple when it comes to summertime cooking. This fruit tastes of sweet, juicy sunshine, but the prickly fortress it is encased in can be somewhat of a deterrent. And then there is the guessing game of “is it ripe or not ripe?” There are a few things to look for when purchasing the perfect pineapple. The crown should be bright green. If the leaves are brown and ragged, give it a pass. The rind should be firm, but yield to slight pressure. If the fruit feels hard as a rock, you likely don’t want to eat it. And lastly, the base of the fruit should smell fragrant, like pineapple. No smell? No purchase. Pineapple doesn’t ripen any further after it’s picked, so look for the best one you can find. Once you get the pineapple home, wash it thoroughly before peeling. There are a few tricks here too (look for them in the recipe below), but if you have a sharp knife, it’s very simple. Once you’ve liberated the tropical fruit from its rind, there are so many tasty ways to eat it. I’m definitely on Team Pineapple Pizza, especially if thin slices of jalapeño and crumbled chorizo are involved. And, I’ve never met a pineapple upside-down cake I haven’t liked. But the best way to eat pineapple in the summer, in my humble opinion, is when it’s charred on the grill then tossed into fresh and herbaceous salsa. Sweet and tangy, this salsa is the perfect companion to grilled pork tenderloin, which has a hint of chili powder and honey. Once you make the salsa, I’m sure you’ll find other ways to serve it, but grilled chicken and fish tacos come to mind immediately.
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Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Charred Pineapple Salsa Serves 4-6 Marinade: Serves 4 Juice of 1 orange Juice of 1½ limes 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or olive oil 1½ Tbs (20 mL) tomato paste 1½ Tbs chili powder (mild or hot) 2 tsp (10 mL) honey 2 tsp (10 mL) jalapeño hot sauce (or your favourite hot sauce) ½ tsp garlic powder ¼ tsp red pepper flakes 2 pork tenderloins approx 750 g total
Salsa: Serves 4 1 small golden pineapple 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil ½ cup diced red bell pepper ¼ cup finely diced red onion ¼ cup chopped cilantro ¼ cup chopped mint 1 tsp (5 mL) jalapeño hot sauce ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 1. Prepare the marinade: Whisk the marinade ingredients together in a medium bowl. 2. Trim the pork tenderloins of any silverskin (thin shiny membrane) and excess fat. Place them in a non-reactive
dish (glass or ceramic) and pour the marinade over, turning to coat thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate the meat for a minimum of 4 hours for best results. Remove the meat from the fridge about one hour before you want to grill. 3. Light the barbecue and turn the dials to medium. 4. About 30 minutes before you want to eat, prepare the salsa: using a sharp chef’s knife, cut about 2.5 cm off the top and bottom of the pineapple. Stand the pineapple on its bottom and slice from top to bottom, following the contours of the pineapple. You’ll be cutting away the peel in wide strips, but most likely the
FROSÉ · · · · · ·
250ml Mateus Rosé Original 50ml wild berry fruit juice 50ml vodka 30g sugar 3 strawberries Ice, ice, and more ice
Place all ingredients in a blender and mix. Garnish with lime zest.
pineapple “eyes” will remain. Go back in and trim those off too, being careful not to remove too much flesh. To remove the core, slice the pineapple in half from top to bottom, then slice again lengthwise into quarters. Trim the core from each quarter of pineapple. 5. Place the pineapple quarters in a shallow dish. Rub with canola oil so evenly coated. Place the pineapple on the barbecue and grill for about 10 minutes, flipping the pieces over to ensure even cooking. You want some of those lovely charred bits on each piece. When the pineapple is nicely grilled, remove and let cool to room temperature. 6. Meanwhile, add the diced red pepper, red onion, herbs, and hot sauce to a medium bowl. Cut the cooled pineapple into small chunks and toss with the salsa ingredients. Season with salt and pepper. Let the salsa stand while you grill the pork. 7. Place the marinated pork tenderloin on the barbecue and grill. Season generously with salt. Grill the meat, flipping once, for about 10-14 minutes, until a thermometer reads 145º F. The meat should still be a little pink inside. Remove the meat from the grill, place on a clean plate and tent with aluminum foil. Let the pork rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Top with the charred pineapple salsa.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.
Broken Tine: IS THE HASKAP CANADA’S NEXT GREAT BERRY? BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
A
decade ago any mention of haskap berries was likely met with little more than a scratch of the head or a blank stare. While these uniquely oblong berries, often also called honeysuckle or honeyberry, or by the technical name lonicera caerulea, have grown considerably in popularity over the last few years, they’re still largely unknown or misunderstood by many fruit lovers. Kreg Alde, the farmer behind Broken Tine Orchard near Beaverlodge, Alberta is making it his mission to make haskaps the go-to berry in Alberta and the rest of Western Canada. Alde started growing haskaps in 2012. He’s a fourth-generation farmer and his family has always grown grain, but when
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he took over his family farm and was looking for a way to diversify his crops, he stumbled on haskaps, a fruit that, like most people, he had never heard of before. As a lifelong berry lover Alde was interested in growing a fruit hardy enough for the Alberta climate. He was considering huckleberries, but his research pointed him towards Russian honeyberries — which, by sheer coincidence he actually found growing wild on his land as remnants of a midcentury agriculture research program conducted by the federal government — though he quickly discovered that the berries were too bitter to eat. This led Alde to the University of Saskatoon, where
researchers had been breeding a hybrid of lonicera caerulea plants from two parts of Russia and Japan that produced plump and juicy berries that were far superior to those wild honeyberries on Alde’s farm. “The berries from Japan were a sweeter, larger berry and when the University bred them with the two varieties from Russia it created a hardier northern version. It was all done through old fashioned breeding techniques,” Alde says. “Now we've gotten more and more newer varieties as well. They grow really well in Canada and taste amazing. It's like a cross between a huckleberry and raspberry.” Alde secured some cultivators from the University and Broken Tine was born.
He knew he had a nice flavourful berry on his hands but needed to figure out how to market them — who was going to buy this little berry with the odd name if they didn’t even know what it was? Haskap farmers have touted the high levels of antioxidants in the berries and the local nature of the crop, which had earned haskaps a bit of a superfood status, but they still are far less known than blueberries or saskatoons. Alde drummed up some regional awareness by making a haskap dessert topping that he started selling to his local IGA, which put it on top of cheesecakes and other baked goods. That, along with a haskap wine that was a judge’s selection in the 2017 Alberta Beverage Awards, was a success, but Alde knows that it’s going to take a lot more work to get the average person to use haskaps on a regular basis. “When you start a new industry you have to create that demand,” he says. “Once people taste these berries they really sell themselves, so it’s really just a matter of people discovering them. It takes some time for people to search for them and then it takes a bit longer to get them into the stores. There’s also a bit of a bubble in that we’re trying to get enough of the product out to people so they want it, but we’re not producing enough for the bigger stores to grab onto it.” To solve this supply and demand problem, Alde has joined forces with other haskap farmers from Western Canada to create Vitalaberry Farms, a collective that pools resources to better
leverage their crops while maintaining consistent packaging, quality, and food safety standards. Since, as with most berries, the window of fresh haskaps is relatively short, the collective is selling bulk frozen or pureed berries to food producers to turn into haskap liqueur, haskap ice cream, or other tasty treats. Vitalaberry also has two retail products of its own: jars of that haskap topping and stand-up packs of frozen berries that can be used for baking, sauces, smoothies, or anywhere else a consumer would use a frozen blueberry. Vitalaberry Farms has certainly expanded the haskap’s reach — the products are available in select Sobeys stores throughout the province and have been used by ice cream producers like Foothills Creamery, Village Ice
Cream, and McKay’s, and distilleries like Grand Prairie’s Broken Oak, though it’s sometimes still branded as “honeyberry.” Alde hopes that within the next five years or so production will pick up enough that larger food companies will be able to use haskaps in larger scale products. “I really think that one day it will become Canada’s number one berry. I think it will eventually overtake the blueberry,” Alde says. “When I look back at our agricultural history, if haskap berries had been brought in first, they’d be everywhere. They really flourish here in Canada.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.
FAMIGLIA BREADS
a tribute to the late Luigi Bontorin and his passion for simple, local ingredients that create a nutritious bread to be shared with family and friends. read the full story at www.cibl.com HEALTHY • NUTRITIOUS • FLAVOURFUL 5310 5th Street SE Calgary, Alberta 403-255-3515 | 1-800-661-6868
Destination:
Ice Cream BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC
Canelo’s
Abbey's Creations
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ith its base of simple ingredients, ice cream is the ultimate vehicle for visiting flavour town. This summer, local ice cream shops are busting out internationally inspired flavours and takes on a perennial favourite treat to beat the heat. Whether as part of a journey, or as the destination itself, prepare to cross several international borders via some of the more unique ice cream experiences Alberta has to offer. Abbey’s Creations Abbey’s Creations, in Calgary’s Bowness, will challenge customers to choose just one of the exotic flavours made from scratch by co-owner, Abbey Claro. Since May 2020, Claro has been introducing Calgarians to traditional Filipino flavours as well as her own delicious flavour combinations. With at least 32 flavours, be sure to try the top-selling Ube Queso, Halo-Halo, or Sans Rival. Or indulge in other globally inspired flavours like Tahini Grilled Coconut or Eastern Slopes Honey with Persian saffron. Be sure to try
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Yelo'd
Abbey’s July collaboration with Prairie Berries’ saskatoon pie filling. Yelo’d Edmonton’s Yelo’d has been creating Asian fusion ice cream and desserts since 2018. Their Whyte Avenue shop’s soft serve is a taste of home for Filipino customers and a way to introduce new flavours to a community unfamiliar with Filipino flavours. Try the best-selling Champorado - a warm, semisweet rice pudding topped with the popular ube ice cream or one of the other three soft serve flavours. For a unique take on an ice cream sandwich, a Tustado combines ice cream and a toasted pandesal bun. Yelo’d hard ice cream is available out of their scoop trucks, Sosyal. Don’t miss the queso ice cream, which combines a mascarpone base with ube cake. Canelo’s Say ‘hola’ to ice cream with a Mexicaninspired twist. Kids are the focus at Canelo’s, but this spot tucked in the Calgary community of Killarney is fun for the whole family. With 12 flavours
of Foothills hard ice cream, 24 flavours of vegan soft serve, signature ice cream tacos - yes, ice cream tacos - and a choice of free unlimited toppings from the candy bar, Canelo’s has everything an ice cream lover could want. The shop includes a built in step for kids to check out the scooping action, and lactose-free and vegan options as well as gluten-free cones will satisfy most dietary restrictions. Free mini cones for kids two and under, and for dogs! Tsujiri With locations in both Edmonton and Calgary, Tsujiri’s creations range from traditional matcha to modern tea-related floats and parfaits. The shop’s two soft ice cream flavours are matcha, a high quality stone mill ground green tea powder; and houjicha, a roasted green tea. For a unique experience, try the Tsujiri parfait, which contains sweetened azuki (red bean), a popular Japanese dessert component. It also has genmai (roasted brown rice), warabimochi (a special jelly-like mochi made from bracken starch that is then coated in roasted soybean), and a monaka wafer (made from mochi). Noto Gelato Using spatulas instead of scoops, Noto brings the authenticity of Italian gelato to Calgary. Their 15 to 20 flavours of
Dellor
Old School Bus Ice Cream
gelato range from authentic Italian to modern with a twist and are kept at lower temperatures than traditional ice cream to ensure the signature creamy, yet elastic, texture. Nothing beats Noto’s tart, yet refreshing, lemon gelato on a hot summer day, but be sure to try pistachio, Nutella, and black cherry. And lunch will never be the same after Noto’s gelato sandwich - your choice of gelato in a toasted vanilla brioche bun. Milk Calgary’s Milk will open a scoop shop this summer next door to John’s Breakfast & Lunch on 4th Street NW, where the small batch ice cream shop has been operating as a pop-up since 2019. Created by cousins and best friends, Anita Ly and Tiffany To, Milk ice cream is made from premium ingredients that are inspired by the duo’s Asian roots and their love of family and travel. Milk’s White
Bunny is a tribute to Ly’s grandmother who offered White Rabbit candies as a reward for good behaviour. Vietnamese Coffee is a tribute to the pair’s parents for the hardships they faced when they first emigrated from Vietnam. Be sure to check out Milk’s monthly collaborations with local businesses that lead to adventurous flavours. Dellor Calgary’s Dellor is serving up Thaiinspired ice cream with a custard base that is made daily in-house and gives the ice cream an ultra-creamy consistency. The base is combined with ingredients like cookies, cake or fruit and turned into a tasty treat before customers’ eyes, using a frozen plate to create the signature rolls. With six permanent flavours and two seasonal flavours, dig in to this summer’s key lime cheesecake and lychee berry flavours.
Upgrade your G&T www.fentimansca.com
Miller’s Ice Cream and Old School Bus Travel back in time at Miller’s Ice Cream and Old School Bus Ice Cream. Miller’s has been serving ice cream in Fort Saskatchewan since 1985 and last year began operating out of a historic railway station built in 1905. Ride the train to flavour town with Miller’s more than 40 flavours of premium Foothills Creamery ice cream, and an ever-expanding menu of summertime treats that includes next level milkshakes and fresh fruit frozen yogurt. Check out the Caboose, a new menu item that includes four flavours of ice cream served in a sampler box. Keep an eye out for Fort Saskatchewan’s sheep that trim the grass in city parks. They are often found behind Miller’s until 8 pm. Old School Bus Ice Cream Canmore’s Old School Bus Ice Cream has been keeping it simple for 17 years. This family favourite serves Chapman’s and London ice cream out of a 1976 school bus. With a huge local following, families enjoy a reasonably priced scoop after a day’s adventure. With approximately 26 flavours that vary from week to week, dairy-free options and Hawaiian shaved ice are also available. Kids cones are actually kid-sized, so parents won’t have to finish a giant scoop of bubblegum ice cream.
Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly-traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
Can-do! I
t’s been a few summers since we talked about canned wine, but they are here to stay, and as people are looking for different ways to enjoy a tipple, these are part of the mix for relaxing with a “glass” or two. Among other reasons, the science behind packaging continues to improve, and consumers finally seem ready to acknowledge that some alternative packaging can be a superior way to have some wine handy (I’m looking at you bag-in-box!). Canned wines – without even talking about the juice in the package, are environmentally responsible, easy to recycle, lightweight, and unbreakable. So they are suitable to bring to the backcountry, enjoy in the park (check your local municipality if chilling with wine in the city limits), and even by the poolside or by the water where broken glass can be a serious hazard. Finally, if the wine in the can is good, it also makes it a little easy to monitor your beverage consumption with a single serving, where at home, I also find them to be a convenient way to have a little wine nearby for a recipe. Though be warned, a 375 mL can of wine is about 2.5 drinks if you are counting and wine might taste a little different directly from the can instead of your typical glassware.
32 Culinaire | July/August 2021
BY TOM FIRTH
Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon California Some days you just want a big, splashy red wine after a long day camping. With classic cabernet flavours of cherry, cedar, and bell pepper (but not too much bell pepper), and plenty of tannins for that big meal, this is a solid choice for a variety of occasions. Did I mention that the can is resealable too? Smart thinking. Did I mention that I also dropped this off my desk by accident? I can attest to its durability too. CSPC +812629, 375 mL $8-9 Sterling Chardonnay, California Packaged in a taller, bigger-mouthed can for a more natural wine drinking experience, this is more of the epitome of California chardonnay. Big flavours and creamy oak with great acids bring all the goods for when you need that bigger, oaky chardonnay. The package does make a difference for enjoyment, but you still might want to share with a friend by that campfire. CSPC +812628, 375 mL $8-9 Lindeman’s 2019 Shiraz South Eastern Australia Bring on the fruit! This little fruit bomb is literally jam-packed with juicy-sweet berry tones, a little spice, and tannins that are so agreeable you barely know they are there. Lindeman’s is well known in our market for making excellent value wines,
and remarkably consistent wines too. This would be an easy match for a little firepit or some slightly burned campsite burgers. CSPC +809971, 250 mL $5-6 Joe To Go Rosé, Oregon United States Anything that gets more wine drinkers trying interesting rosé is a good thing. Joe’s shows delicate berry fruits on the nose with good expressions and balance on the palate. Quite dry and easy to drink, this sort of rosé ticks off those boxes and makes it very easy to enjoy a couple of glasses of wine at the end of the hike. CSPC +816138, 375 mL $11-12 Joe To Go Pinot Gris , Oregon United States Pinot gris is well suited to be considered a summer sipper with its juicy, apple fruits, mild pear and nectarine flavours, crisp acids and lighter body. I was very impressed by how well balanced this wine was, and how very refreshing. Weird as it can be drinking wine out of a can, it’s quite a nice treat. CSPC +816140, 375 mL $11-12 Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca
Escape into Nature... you deserve it
Located just 14 kms from Fernie, BC and 3.5 hours from Calgary, Island Lake Lodge sits on 7,000 acres of Nature Reserve. Old growth forest and stunning views surround four beautiful log lodges. Explore over 100 kms of maintained hiking trails, enjoy the day spa, canoe on the lake, or just sit back and take in the majestic views.
The Dine & Stay Package
Our food and wine philosophy focuses on sustainable practices and shines a light on local suppliers, with a creative culinary team bringing everything to life. Indulge your inner foodie and sample some of the best cuisine in the Kootenays.
Check our website for restaurant hours, spa offerings, dining menus, accommodation packages and all other information.
islandlakelodge.com 1.888.422.8754 Follow: @islandlakelodge
A Tonic Water For What Ails You BY DAVID NUTTALL
B
ack when you were young, soda pop was probably your favourite cheat drink, coming in a wide variety of flavours. As you hit adulthood, pop transitioned more into the mix part of mixed drinks, and was dominated by cola, club soda, ginger ale, lemon-lime, and tonic water. All were familiar from your youth, except tonic water, which you never drank, and your parents used for only one reason: the gin and tonic. So why has this beverage remained such an enigma? Its history starts with quinine, a drug which was used in the tropics to help treat malaria, lupus, arthritis, and leg cramps. Derived from the bark of the cinchona tree, its bitter flavour became more palatable when combined with soda water and sugar, creating tonic water. The British army stationed in India in the early 1800s found the drink blended well with gin and thus the gin and tonic was born. Indian Tonic Water became the common name for the beverage, and in addition to its ability to ward off malaria, many found it refreshing on its own. By the mid-19th century, commercial tonic water was being produced and it has remained a bar staple ever since.
34 Culinaire | July/August 2021
In Alberta, two major brands have dominated the market: Canada Dry and Schweppes. Both are made with much less quinine than the original recipes and use carbonated water with high-fructose corn syrup as a sweetener. Essentially tonic water came in only one flavour - that is, until artisanal brands began to appear in the past decade. While major soft drink producers began adding multiple flavours to the main pop varieties several years ago (cherry, vanilla, lemon, raspberry, cranberry, green tea, etc.), tonic water had stayed one-dimensional. However now, finally, it too joins the realm of other sodas. The quintessential quinine bitterness remains but varies greatly between products. Furthermore, tonic syrup has become a new sensation, where the concentration of the drink can be controlled. As more distilleries and breweries diversify into the soft drink business, expect more brands to appear. The classic G & T used to be a one trick pony, but since gin has exploded in flavour profiles (see September 2020 Culinaire), it almost demands tonic water keeps up. As new arrays of tonics arrive, it is becoming a popular mix with all types of spirits; vodka tonic has long been
popular, but also try it with blanco tequila. Today, it’s even being promoted as a drink to be enjoyed on its own, something you almost never saw in the past. In Alberta, you can find tonic waters in liquor stores and anywhere that sells soft drinks. The craft versions may also be found in selected or specialty stores. All should be available online. THE TRADITIONAL Canada Dry and Schweppes are still the top sellers, available almost everywhere, and have a nice balance between sweet and bitter, making them prototypical mixers. The others vary slightly in bitterness, sweetness, and fruit flavour, depending on what additional botanicals were added. Canada Dry (Canada) and Schweppes (Canada/UK), $7 (12-pack cans) Barker and Quin Finest Indian Tonic Water (South Africa), $9 (4-pack bottles) Fever-Tree Premium Indian Tonic Water (UK), $8 (4-pack bottles) Double Dutch Indian Tonic Water (UK), $8 (4-pack bottles) Fentimans Tonic Water (UK), $12 (4-pack bottles)
FLORAL This style of tonic relies mainly on herbs and flowers for flavour, resulting in very little bitterness. Fever-Tree Elderflower Eau Claire Elderflower Barker and Quin Marula Sparkmouth Cucumber Mint
LIGHT AND REFRESHING These tonics are less bitter, lighter tasting, with up to 60% less calories than regular tonic water. Eau Claire Original Tonic (Alberta), $8 (4-pack bottles) Sparkmouth Artisanal Dry Tonic (B.C.), $10 (6-pack cans) Fever-Tree Refreshingly Light Premium Indian Tonic Water Fever-Tree Refreshingly Light Cucumber Tonic Water Barker and Quin Light At Heart Tonic Water Double Dutch Skinny Tonic Water
We’re back, and we’re excited to be able to move ahead with the multicourse pairing dinners we’ve been missing for so long! One-Off Special Fine & Dine at Oxbow Thursday July 15. Executive Chef Quinn Staple and Chef de Cuisine Miles Perry are creating a special pairing menu for our one-off evening at Oxbow, in Hotel Arts Kensington.
FRUITY By using a variety of fruits and botanicals as ingredients, these tonics are sweeter and less bitter, making them very drinkable on their own. Because of the use of natural ingredients, some varieties are cloudy. Fever-Tree Aromatic Fever-Tree Lemon Fever-Tree Mediterranean Fever-Tree Pink Grapefruit Double Dutch Cranberry and Ginger Barker and Quin Hibiscus Barker and Quin Honeybush Orange Vine & Dine at Franca’s Italian Specialties Wednesday July 21, and Friday July 30 Italian is our most often requested cuisine, and we are coming back to Franca’s, one of Calgary’s hidden gems, for two super delicious 6-course pairing dinners! Vine & Dine at Foreign Concept Wednesday August 11, Sunday August 22, and Wednesday August 25 It’s our fifth season at Foreign Concept, and almost every evening here sells out, so reserve your places for these superb 6-course pairing dinners from Chef Duncan Ly!
TONIC SYRUPS Syrups of all kinds have arrived in the market in the last few years, with tonics being especially popular. Porter’s Tonic Syrups were created in Calgary in 2013, by Nicole Fewell, out of her dissatisfaction with the range of tonic waters available at the time. Wild Life Distillery in Canmore added tonic syrup to their product line soon after, and a few other brands are also available in Alberta. These concentrates can be blended with soda water at different ratios, depending on the flavour profile desired. Porter’s Original, Grapefruit, Cardamom Orange, and Hibiscus, all $15 per 237 mL bottle Wild Life, $15 per 500 mL bottle
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Special Evening at Buffalo Mountain Lodge, in Banff Friday August 13 A fabulous multi-course pairing dinner and overnight stay at Banff’s Buffalo Mountain Lodge and their brand new restaurant, The Prow! One-Off Special Fine & Dine at Rendesvouz Wednesday August 18 A one-off, special 5-course pairing menu in the private dining room at Calgary’s newest upscale restaurant, Rendesvouz, from Executive Chef Mike Skarbo. Menus and restaurants are added regularly, so check out culinairemagazine.ca/events for details and to reserve.
I
Summer Spirits BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
t is a little tricky predicting exactly what we’ll be doing this summer, where it will be, and who or how many we’ll be doing it with. So we’ve decided to play it a bit on the safe side and focus on finely crafted spirits that may show their
best in the great outdoors. From spirits that taste great in ice-laden cocktails to cool you off on a hot day, to rich sipping bourbons (and a tequila) to sip by a firepit when the evening isn’t quite done. Enjoy!
Banff Ice Summit Vodka, Alberta This is one smooth vodka! Banff Ice Summit uses only 100 percent winter wheat - a hardy grain that remains dormant and doesn’t die off in winter, bursting into life in spring - and is distilled five times and charcoal filtered to produce a distinctive, clean spirit with a full mouth-feel and long finish. There’s a sweet nose of vanilla, with a little tropical fruit on the palate, and I’m looking for a classic martini to sip and savour here. Bonus - it’s crazy good value too! CSPC +815685 $24-28
Hansen Tropic Sunset Pineapple Coconut Liqueur, Alberta Chasing the high that is the incredible summers we get in Alberta comes this recent release from Edmonton’s Hansen Distillery. Weighing in with 27 percent alcohol and very little sweetness, the flavours are exactly as promised with bright, summery flavours, good balance, and all the rest. This will make a solid base for any number of cocktails, or even just a splash of soda. Hello summer! CSPC 849124 $48-50
Casey Jones Distillery Total Eclipse Moonshine, Kentucky, USA Wow, now here’s something different, and quite eye-popping. From Kentucky, this moonshine was created to commemorate the 2017 solar eclipse, and is a velvety blend, as they say, of ‘corn and cane’. It reminds me of being in Mexico and the sweet, yet earthy, smell of fresh ground corn tortillas. At 50 percent ABV, I’d suggest adding ice, and then any mixer you like or in a cocktail – but it’s like a good whisky, totally enjoyable without the mixer. CSPC +846828 $33-36 Alberta Pure Vodka, Alberta When a local spirit is named the best Canadian vodka at the 2021 World Vodka Awards, we just have to revisit it. Made from Prairie-grown grain and Rocky Mountain glacier water, Alberta Pure is clean tasting, yet creamy with almost baked bread notes on the palate. Of course it makes a great Martini and a terrific Screwdriver, but really – at this price and quality, this is probably your spirit of choice for your Caesars this summer! CSPC +1073 Around $25 on the shelf. 36 Culinaire | July/August 2021
Cada Dia Tequila Reposada Jalisco, Mexico Cada Dia celebrates life ‘every day’, with a limited 3,000-bottle production of rich, smooth, and deep tequila. 8-year old agave cooks slowly for 40 hours, and is fermented with natural yeast before being doubledistilled with volcanic water, and aged in second-use bourbon barrels, resulting in a sweet and smoky vanilla nose, with caramel and a hint of mandarin peel on the palate. Absolutely delicious for sipping or in cocktails. CSPC +845705 $77-80 Deuce Neon Vodka, Alberta Released in perfect time for summer, Neon is a flavoured vodka from Deuce Vodka. Made from Prairie winter wheat, it’s glutenfree and super smooth, with a soft mouthfeel. With all-natural flavourings, you’ll instantly be reminded of cotton candy on the nose, but you’ll recognize watermelon on the palate – so on-trend this summer! At 22 percent ABV, we enjoy it neat on ice, but it makes a great highball with soda, and a very tasty Cosmo! CSPC +841162 $23-27
Calgary’s wildest dinning experience is now open! Calgary Zoo’s full-service, seasonal restaurant, provides family-family à la carte dinning. Grazers is licensed, offering wine and zoo-inspires cocktails. Indulge in an indoor or patio dining experience, with locally sourced ingredients that also supports wildlife conservation. Visit calgaryzoo.com for more information.
MAKING THE CASE
For Backyard Wines By TOM FIRTH
While Alberta’s “Open for Summer” plan is underway, it’s hard to guess exactly what that will look like or how successfully we’ll navigate the changes over the summer months. In that light, it’s fair to say that aside from some dine-in or patio visits, many of us might be entertaining or chilling out in our backyards. Whether supporting our specialty grocers, getting take out, or even ordering some of those yummy prepare-at-home options, there are plenty of great options for wetting your whistle – wine style. With some versatile, barbecuefriendly whites and reds from around the world, I’ve also found a few lovely, and reasonably priced sparkling wines that can help beat the heat in style. Enjoy! Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Faust 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, United States
I’ve had this wine several times in the past, but tasting it now was the first time I had ever known it was in Canada (so I guess I need to get out more). Napa is, of course, one of the global, marquee homes of cabernet sauvignon, so this is bound to impress enthusiasts of the grape. Densely laden with black fruits, cola, and pepperyherb aromas, the palate is a showstopper with classic varietal character but earthy, tarry tannins to balance the fruit. Cellar or drink, but either way, have the decanter close to hand for this treasure. CSPC +769210 About $115-120 38 Culinaire | July/August 2021
Domaine Giraud 2019 M&F, France
A blend of syrah and cinsault, with a smattering of a few other grapes, this is exactly the sort of wine that works so well at a backyard barbecue when you don’t quite know what’s on the menu. Slightly smoky and herbal characters support deep fruits and a lengthy, savoury finish. This would really rock some ribs or a nice cheese plate. CSPC 836993 About $24-26
Bottega NV Petalo Il Vino dell’Amore Moscato Dolce, Italy
Moscato is often described as being “summer in a glass” and while perhaps a bit overused, it’s a fitting description. Densely packed with fresh, tropical fruit flavours and more than a little sweetness and less alcohol, this is the sort of wine that is a perfect alternative to soda on a warm day. Pro tip: moscato always tastes better when the sun is shining and the birds are chirping. CSPC +775712 Around $17-20
De Fournier 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé, Loire Valley, France
While pinot noir makes some of the finest red wines on the planet, in the right hands a fine rosé can also take shape. Aromas are both subtle and summery with bright pink blossom tones and a pinch of candy cigarette (remember those?). Quite dry, but with some noticeable sweetness, the palate is well balanced by zesty acids and a mild tartness to the fruit. Serve cool to cold, and like most rosés, it tastes better outside. CSPC +842914 $21-24
Cune NV Brut Cava, Spain
Anno Domini N/V Brut Bio, Veneto, Italy
Zsirai 2017 Tokaji Furmint, Hungary
Louis Bouillot NV Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé, Burgundy, France
13th Street Winery 2018 Burger Blend Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Faber 2018 Riche Shiraz, Swan Valley Western Australia
Quin 2017 Shiraz, Eden Valley South Australia
Faber 2017 Reserve Shiraz Swan Valley, Western Australia
Clos de Luz 2018 Arao Rapel Valley, Chile
Quite simply, this is a sparkling wine that punches well over its weight. A blend of traditional grapes often found in Spain’s sparkling wine, the nose beckons with biscuit toastiness while the fruits are well positioned and well balanced too. Perhaps best of all, the finish is so smooth and creamy – you find yourself pouring another glass before you know it. CSPC +812216 $19-21
One of my favourite sparkling wines from the Burgundy region of France, and positively bursting with fresh, toasty characters coupled with expressive, summery berry fruits. This is exactly the sort of sparkling wine that reminds one why they should be drinking more bubbly. And the price is fantastic too! Pair with anything really, but my vote would be a little fresh fruit and cheese. CSPC +745430 $29-32
Only available in our market in smaller quantities, Quin is yet another expression of shiraz, but from the Eden Valley. Plump fruits on the nose support a wild berry, and herbal tone, leading into a very easy going, but complex shiraz expression on the palate. Bloody good from start to finish, and each sip brings out a little more to think on or discuss. Cellar if you wish, but a rather smashable wine that should be a bit of an all-star for summer grilling. CSPC +824522 $64-68
Brand new to our market, and an organic prosecco to boot, look for expressive and beautiful flavours of lime and lemon drops, tart apple fruits, and lush tropical notes of pineapple and a bit of gooseberry (yes, gooseberry!) on the nose and palate, with a slightly creamy approach making for a refreshing glass or two. Juicy, fresh, and delicious too. CSPC +844006 $25-28
The name says it all. From the Niagara Peninsula comes a gamay pinot noir blend designed from the ground up to pair with burgers. Rather lighter in body with a softer approach to the tannins, but still generous fruits leaning towards cranberries and strawberries with a lifted, zesty acidity which will really hum along with homemade, gourmet-style bacon (optional) cheeseburgers. CSPC +812773 About $21
This was the first-time tasting wine from the Swan Valley in Australia, and it’s easy to see why it might be worth the effort to find these. The reserve shiraz is deep and earthy, distinctively Australian in style with some of those bigger fruits on the nose and palate, but also showing off tons of floral and nuance under that fruit. A big, serious shiraz, with a wonderfully long finish, that should be a treat from the cellar or something special to pull out at a backyard meal. CSPC +815260 About $76-82
Furmint is one of the great, unheard-of white grapes, and almost entirely found in Hungary. Floral aromas dominate the nose with a slightly resinous, almost evergreen character. Clean and dry on the palate with plenty of layered flavours and a slightly spicy finish. Interesting, tasty, and would really go well with scallops or grilled fish. CSPC +836710 About $26
Swan Valley is very well suited to making some lovely varieties that favour a warmer climate, like the lush, fruity Australian shiraz so many people love, and what makes it so good at a get-together. Here, the fruits are very generous with a lifted, but still subtle violet character that really makes this sing from start to finish. Would be a fine treat with barbecued meats, or a nice charcuterie board. CSPC +832692 $40-44
Carmenère is a grape I continually forget about, but with the added bonus that I am often pleasantly surprised by well made ones. A blend with about 8 percent cabernet sauvignon and 7 percent syrah, it’s right on the cusp of being able to be labeled as a straight variety. Plummy and spicy, with peppers and graphite followed by a bright, garden-fresh finish, this will sing with burgers, hanger steaks, or even good pizza. CSPC +834164 About $21-23 July/August 2021 | Culinaire 39
E TC E TE R A . . . Red House Salsas
There are so many talented people making fabulous products in Alberta, and we’re slowly but surely discovering them all. Mary Burch is definitely on this list; her simple but special salsa-making hobby has become a business – and rightly so! Made in small batches in St. Albert, Burch uses local ingredients for GF and vegan, fresh Mild, Medium, Hot, and Garlic salsas, and we love that she says, “We quality check our butts off.” Enjoy, they’re a no brainer! 500 mL $9. redhousesalsa.com for stockists.
The Artisanal Kitchen: Barbecue Sides
We expect the protein to be the star of our BBQs, but this little book from pitmaster Adam Perry Lang has some super delicious recipes for sides under the headings of Melting, Creamy, and Crispy; and Fresh, Sprightly, and Green. Lang has snuck in three meaty classics recipes, but my copy is full of Post-It notes for dishes such as Bubbling Bacon Butter Beans (p.17), Scruffed Carbonara Potatoes (p.23), and Radish and Mint Salad (p.71). I’m going to be busy this summer! Workman Publishing $15.
Preserved Candied Chillies
Preserved say they are all about sustainable, local and delicious – and we can vouch for that! Vanessa Rundell’s mission is to take the best Alberta produce and support those farmers by turning their products into quality preserves and pickles. We’ve recently discovered her Candied Chilies, grown by Gull Valley Greenhouses, and now transformed by Rundell into a jar of thinly sliced, spicy, colourful goodness. 250 mL $8-10. Available across Alberta in specialty stores. 40 Culinaire | July/August 2021
Squeeze of Lime Grain-Free Tortilla Chips
We like our grains, but we’re always excited to try alternatives - and these new grain-free chips from Que Pasa, in Richmond, BC, are made from cassava flour (aka yuca, manioc and tapioca) and are really delicious! They contain chia seeds too, and are super crunchy, light, with a little salt, and a lovely zing from the lime. More plusses – they’re certified organic, and so no one’s left out, they’re non-GMO, gluten-free, and vegan too. Widely available, 142 g $4-6
Zoe Ford BBQ Baking Packs
This shouldn’t be too much of a surprise given Alberta’s love of barbecuing and grilling envy, but Chef Jo Notkin, from Montreal and Top Chef Canada contestant, has launched a line of barbecue-ready baking mixes (say what?!!). Four mixes are available including cinnamon rolls, pancakes, graham crackers, and dinner rolls. They will work in the oven too, and best results might come the second time around, but there is no denying the ease and pleasure of enjoying more bread. About $13-14
Zinter Brown Pomegranate Pepper Pot
Anything pomegranate sounds appealing to us, so we put this pepper condiment through its paces – and it came out on top every time! Lightly tangy and a little sweet, we tried it on crackers with aged Cheddar, with Brie, smoked Gouda, and with cream cheese, and it was a terrific complement to all without overpowering them - with charcuterie and as a salad dressing too. Edmonton’s Zinter Brown has been making gourmet pepper pots and spreads for 33 years! zinterbrown.net 265 mL $8-9
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O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
...with George Teichroeb BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
G
rowing up in the St. Thomas area of rural South Eastern Ontario, George Teichroeb’s dream was to be a motocross racer. His dad had a full-time job and also ran a little farm, with cows, pigs, and chickens. “I started riding motorcycles at the age of five and being on a farm, you had access to a lot of great terrain for off-roading, so I've been riding ever since,” he says. But life had a different plan for Teichroeb. His parents moved west to Manitoba, and at college in Winnipeg he took a business course with a minor in economics, before moving into the finance realm. “I did a great internship with Canada Safeway in Winnipeg, and then they relocated me to Calgary in ‘93 to their corporate office.” In 1997 he saw an ad for a ‘bulk analyst’ at a distillery, and was curious. He discovered it meant looking after all the maturing assets and being responsible for the barrels. “There's almost 600,000 barrels, and the concept of aging alcohol just fascinated me,” says Teichroeb. At the time, Alberta Distillers (ADL) were primarily producing bulk alcohol, and he worked with people that traveled the world selling it on the spot market, gaining valuable analytics and inventory management experience. Teichroeb credits his career success to his mentors. “You surround yourself with people that give you a feeling of not only security, but that you can achieve more.” One distiller took him under his wing, and every Friday spent two hours taking him through operations. “If you have an interest and you’re willing to learn, and if you're a nice guy, they're willing to take the time,” he adds. When ADL owners, Fortune Brands, were negotiating with Pernod Ricard, Teichroeb joined the mergers and acquisition team. “We acquired Canadian Club, Maker's Mark, and other companies that overnight took us from eighth in the world to third. So it's a
42 Culinaire | July/August 2021
huge jump up - the experience was more valuable than I ever imagined.” He relocated with the company to Louisville, Kentucky in 2007, and worked for seven years at various Jim Beam facilities. “I loved Kentucky,” says Teichroeb. “The people were great. The weather was great, and being at a facility that size and that old was an entirely different world.” Fred Noe (seventh generation Jim Beam master distiller) was across the hall. “What a generous man to show me the ropes and introduce me to people, and the Samuels family from Maker's Mark was the exact same. There's so many people willing to teach if you're a sponge and want to absorb it.” Now, ADL are celebrating 75 years, and Teichroeb has been reflecting on the history and heritage. “As general manager I have the luxury of being able to see where we go and how we want to evolve,” he says. ”One goal is a safe environment for employees but it has to be a safe psychological space as well. And it’s inspiring ideas that we never knew people had; we're seeing things happen
from people stepping back and going, ”Hey, this is great. My ideas matter.” So what bottle Teichroeb is saving for a special occasion? When he was looking after the material inventory in 1978 and 1980 bond, ADL decided to do a special release for Alberta's centennial in 2005. “So this is where for the first time I worked with our sales people, with the lab, with procurement as they're sourcing a special label, and trying to get a sense of how can we put it all together,” he explains. “What do we want to put out there? What are we looking for when we want to do this? And to watch the 25-year old Alberta Springs come to this stage was fantastic. I felt I was part of the journey. Don't get me wrong, the specialists are the people in the lab and the blenders that formulate it, but to be involved in each of those steps is so valuable. And I said, ‘I'll have it on my last day when I leave the whiskey business - or I'll have it on my 25th anniversary.’ So next year I'll be having this bottle.”
MODERN STEAK A N A L B E R TA P R I M E G R A D E S T E A K H O U S E
MODERN OCEAN A S U S TA I N A B L E F I S H & S E A F O O D H O U S E
OPENING LATE SUMMER 2021
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