A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S O C TO B E R 2 02 1
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400+ Award Winning Drinks | Squash and Pumpkins | Autumn Soups
2 Culinaire | October 2021
October 2021 | Culinaire 3
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contents
Volume 10 / No. 4 / October 2021
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departments 8 10
Salutes and Shout Outs
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
Squashing expectations: local pumpkin experts and Alberta chefs share their favourite squash and pumpkin dishes, inspired by their loved ones and the people they’ve met along their journeys
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82 Etcetera…
What’s new?
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S U LT S O F T RE H
14 Welcome to the Jungle
Interactive education with a side of harvest pumpkins by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
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Soup’s On!
It’s time to reach into your cupboard and pull out your stockpots, anticipating the that first spoon of soup that will warm you down to your toes by Natalie Findlay
2021
ON THE COVER
We’re celebrating the huge success of our 9th Alberta Beverage Awards, open to any beverages available in our province. What more do we need to say? Many thanks to Keane Straub and Kendra Roberts for such a strong, dynamic, and striking graphic that says it all!
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Step By Step: Marbled
Pumpkin and Cream Cheese Gingersnap Tart This delicious marbled tart combines the best parts of pumpkin pie and cheesecake! by Renée Kohlman
22
22 The Results of the 2021
Alberta Beverage Awards
Over three days in July, our judges at the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards tasted, sipped, and swirled over 1100 wines, beers, spirits, and everything in between to find the very best. by Tom Firth October 2021 | Culinaire 5
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Your are the best!
Giving thanks…
We work so hard on the magazine to reach our goals: to entertain, inform, and educate – and equally as hard, if not harder, on our interactive events to achieve those same goals, and it’s emails like this after our Fresh and Local Market and Kitchens World Taste Tour last month that make it all worthwhile…
S
ometimes we’re just so focused on meeting deadlines, getting our next issue to print, writing, proofing, and planning several months ahead to be on top of everything and leaving as little as possible to chance, that we forget. We forget to lift our heads, stare into the distance, and take stock of everything: where we’ve come from, reflect on the obstacle course of a journey and where it’s led us to, and where we are now – and be grateful for it all. No one promised us an easy ride (quite the reverse!), but we have so much to be thankful for. Our first World Taste Tour was such a huge success; a tad overbooked after our segment on Global News, which was so much fun (more thanks!). And a thrill to see so many people safely enjoying themselves, and gaining not only a greater understanding of 16 different cultures through their food, but a greater appreciation for them.
This year’s Alberta Beverage Awards was also a huge success – 35 percent bigger than our biggest Awards, last year. A leap that huge is not without its challenges, and we give thanks to everyone involved, from our volunteers to our judges, and to all the producers and importers that entered their products. The results are here in our biggest issue yet in all our nine years! With gratitude,
Hi Linda, We had a great time and I know my partner will be attending future events. This was her first time and it was an awesome introduction to the “Culinaire race“ world! I’ll definitely be signing up for the newsletter.
Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief
Thanks again to you and your team, You did an amazing job, ND, Calgary
Dinner just got easier! Find scratch made, authentic Italian dishes ready to heat-and-serve in our coolers daily. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Jason Dziver Natalie Findlay Dong Kim Renée Kohlman Keane Straub
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors Jason Dziver
Jason Dziver has been a professional photographer for the last 25 years, and has happily worked on the Alberta Beverage Awards since the beginning. If you ask what he shoots, he’ll probably say, “anything short of a wedding”, but most frequently that means architecture, food and beverage, and portraiture. You’ll find examples at jasondziver.com. Jason is also a little bit obsessed with all aspects of cycling...
Keane Straub
Freelance writer and photographer, Keane is based out of Calgary. They have travelled from Tofino, BC, to Charlottetown, PEI, and tried a lot of local flavour along the way. While beer is their go-to, they won’t say no to a good gin and tonic. A storyteller at heart, they find building LEGO therapeutic, and enjoy hiking, teaching photography basics, and reading about Mount Everest. Find them on instagram @keane_larsen, or their website keanestraub.com.
Tom Firth
Tom is a drinks writer, consultant, and judge who has been travelling the world and pulling corks for over twenty years. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his desk is covered in paper and bottles - somewhere under all that, a corkscrew might be found.
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
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SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S We love that 35 rescued wolf dogs and huskies will enjoy 500 pounds of meat trimmings, donated by Calgary’s Modern Steak from their restaurant to the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary, to help lessen the financial strain as they grow. Talk about a feel-good factor! Congratulations to Edmonton’s Earth’s General Store on their 30th anniversary! A bulk environmental store, they expanded in 2010 to include local, certified organic, and Fair Trade certified, fresh, packaged, chilled and frozen foods. Congrats too to Pie Junkie on their fourth (and largest!) Calgary location. In addition to Kensington, Spruce Cliff and Mahogany, now pie lovers in the north (Airdrie and Cochrane too) can nip in to 826 Crowfoot Crescent NW, for their fill of these delicious, premium, sweet and savoury, all-butter pastry pies. Daily, 10 am-7 pm. Talking of pies – albeit a different type – Calgary fan faves, Noble Pie, have transitioned from a pizza pop-up to a bricks-and-mortar location at the back of 720 11 Avenue SW (enter from the alley behind!), also home to Metrovino and Cookbook Co. Cooks. For now, takeaway only Wednesday-Sunday, 3:30–8:30 pm, pre-ordered at noblepiepizza.com. And talking of transitions, after taking over Canmore’s Tapas Restaurant last year, foraging mountain chef, Tracy Little, and partner Renee Saulnier, have now rebranded to become Sauvage Restaurant, so perfect for their philosophy of sustainable and local, foraging, and adventures in the wild. 5-9.30 pm, seven days. Local Public Eatery has opened their second Calgary location in the completely renovated, ex-Barley Mill spot in Eau Claire – and it’s really good! Head Chef, Oliver Lewis, was heading up the 8th Avenue SW location for eight years, and he’s brought this well-loved menu, as well as new items such as the super delicious Korean BBQ-style pork rice bowl. We tried a lot of his food, and we’re impressed – from the shrimp 8 Culinaire | October 2021
dumplings and crispy duck salad to the pinche beef tacos and enchiladas – and did we mention the fully loaded crispy potatoes? Local brews and cocktails too, and two large patios – one on each floor! Seven days, 11-11 pm, from 10 am weekends. Edmonton has a new bar at 11454 Jasper Avenue - Soho. “It’s a wear what you want, be who you are, and embrace your inner punk kind of place,” with real New Yorkstyle pizzas, Philly Cheesesteak, sammys, poutines, beer, spirits, and the “happiest of hours” 4-5 pm. Noon-2 am, daily. Further East, at 10158 90 Street NW, Riverdale has a new bistro pub, Dogpatch, from River Valley Co., and sister to Little Brick Café and the new Bread and Butter Bakery next door (where all the fresh-baked bread and buns come from!). Scratch-made bread bowl soups, veggie and meaty elevated appies and sandwiches await. Lunch and dinner daily to 10 pm. First Street Market has finally been able to open its doors with nine of Calgary’s much-loved chefs and restaurateurs offering up contemporary casual fare at 1327 1st Street SW. Perfect
for those who can’t agree, you can have it all here: Moti Mahal’s new Saffron Street, Chef Mike Pigot’s Hi5 Burgers, Friends with Benedicts, and La Mano, and second locations for Our Daily Brett’s Actually Pretty Good pizzas, Moose & Poncho, Alforno, Lam Pham’s Pure Vietnamese, and Raw by Robyn. Wash it all down with coffee, wine, beer, and cocktails from the bar in the open-concept dining areas or on the large heated patio with TVs, looking out over Haultain Park. 7 am–9 pm, seven days. If you’re in St. Albert September 28-October 15, do pop in to Breadlove, at 46C St. Michael Street, who are hosting a pop-up shop featuring local food products from around Edmonton and food experiences created by area chefs. Tuesday to Saturdays, 11-6 pm. Check out publicfoodhub.com for the details! Edmonton’s newest brewery, Irrational Brewing, is open at 109 -10643 124 Street, in a restored 1938 art deco substation. Husband and wife team, head brewer Nathan Marculis and Wafa Veljee, spent the last year refurbishing the brewery and taproom, and now there are eight beers on tap and South Island Pies on offer! Seven days to 10 pm, Sunday to 6 pm.
October 2021 | Culinaire 9
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
Squashing Expectations BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOGRAPHY BY DONG KIM
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t’s harvest season, and with it come the fruits of the genus Cucurbita (which includes squash, pumpkins, and gourds). They’re packed with vitamin C, sure to give you a boost in the cooler months. They can be smooth or bumpy, slim or rotund, and come in familiar fall hues of orange, gold, and scarlet, and cooler shades of green, blue, and white. And, for as many colour and shape combinations there are dishes that showcase these autumn faves. In this month’s Chef’s Tips you’ll find local pumpkin experts and Alberta chefs sharing their favourite squash and pumpkin dishes, inspired by their loved ones and the people they’ve met along their journeys.
Sprawling across 80 acres in Parkland County, Alberta, family-owned and operated Somerset Farms is the place to procure pumpkins. “Pumpkins are our passion,” says main grower, Kate de Windt. “This year we grew 49 different varieties and 15,000 pumpkins.” Along with their u-pick pumpkins, the farm also offers private fire pit rentals, picnic areas, and outdoor events. A former marine and freshwater biologist from Ontario, here in landlocked Alberta de Windt maintains a large vegetable garden at home, and enjoys growing, harvesting, and preserving food for her family. “Pumpkins and winter squash are one of the easiest vegetables to store and can last 4-12 months once harvested from the garden.” Store them in a cool place (10-15ºC) with good air circulation, like a cool spot in your basement. No basement? No problem. De Windt adds, “I love to cook a couple of pumpkins at a time and then freeze any additional puree in 1 cup portions for later use.” Adding pumpkin to your menu staples is a great way to make vegetables 10 Culinaire | October 2021
appealing to even the pickiest of eaters. “From the time our kids were really little I tried to incorporate vegetables into every meal,” explains de Windt. “Pumpkin pancakes were one of the easiest ways I found to add them into our breakfast routine.”
Pumpkin Pancakes
Makes 18–20, 7 cm pancakes 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 1½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ginger ¼ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves ¼ cup brown sugar, packed 1½ cups (375 mL) 2% milk 1 cup (250 mL) pumpkin puree, homemade or canned 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 2 eggs, large 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 1 Tbs (15 mL) fancy molasses
1. In a large bowl whisk flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and brown sugar. 2. In a small bowl whisk milk, pumpkin puree, canola oil, eggs, vanilla extract and molasses. Once mixed, add to dry ingredients and mix just until combined. Let sit 3-5 minutes until slightly thickened. 3. Heat a lightly oiled frying pan over medium heat. Scoop the batter into the pan using a ¼ cup (60 mL) scoop for each pancake. When bubbles appear around the edges of the pancakes (2-3 minutes) flip over and brown the other side. Pancakes are cooked when the centre springs back when lightly touched. 4. Serve hot with plenty of butter and your favourite syrup.
Chef and owner Scott Downey of Edmonton’s Butternut Tree is inspired by the diversity of culture and cuisine that is found throughout the world, as well as local ingredients and techniques. “With our nation’s diversity being such a melting pot, through exploring our agriculture and wilderness we begin to find more pieces to our culinary vocabulary,” he explains. His time in New York cooking at Daniel, under Chef Daniel Boulud, is much of what shaped the chef Downey is today. His recipe for stuffed winter squash is an ode to Boulud, “This is a farmhouse classic from the south of France. It’s a recipe that has stood the test of time as it is multigenerational but also something that has been forgotten in the old world of culinary techniques,” says Downey. Choose your pumpkin or squash by weight, advises Downey, to ensure quality flavour, texture, and nutrients. “If it’s heavy (in comparison to the others offered) then most likely it has more water weight and is fresher.” Lastly, when it comes to this recipe, Downey says to keep things simple, but be open to experimenting. “This is a traditional recipe with the foundation of what we have on the farm, and nothing goes to waste! It’s a great Sunday meal or side dish to enhance your holiday meal.”
Fall Stuffed Pumpkin or Squash Serves 6-8
1 squash or pumpkin with large cavity (Acorn, Kuri, Kabocha) 1 clove garlic 1 leaf sage 1 sprig rosemary
Stuffing
6-7 slices of day-old bread, cut into 2 cm cubes 1 medium onion, diced 1 Tbs minced garlic 2 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary 1 Tbs fresh sage, chopped 1 egg, lightly beaten ¼ cup walnuts, chopped ¼ cup blackcurrants 1 lb mushrooms, chopped (any kind) To taste salt ¼ cup bacon trimmings ¼ cup (60 mL) whipping cream 1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Cut top off pumpkin or squash,
and reserve for later. Hollow out cavity in a similar fashion to a jack-o-lantern. 3. Lightly season the inside of the pumpkin with salt and place the garlic clove, sage and rosemary into the cavity. Roast for 10 minutes if smaller (acorn) or 20 minutes if larger (kabocha). 4. Meanwhile combine stuffing ingredients in a large bowl. Once roasting has finished remove squash/ pumpkin from oven and let cool completely. 5. Once cool, fill pumpkin to top with stuffing mixture. Top with bacon trimmings, and slowly pour cream over top. 6. Top with pumpkin lid and bake for 45 minutes. Remove, and let rest for 10 minutes (this helps it hold together while cutting). Slice into individual wedges and enjoy!
Note:
Make this your own! Change up with seasonings like juniper, green peppercorn, or apple, or fillings like kale or other hearty greens, chorizo, or meatballs. October 2021 | Culinaire 11
Rafael Castillo’s goal as executive chef at Calgary’s Fonda Fora is to create Mexican dishes using local ingredients. “I want to take advantage of where we are and all of the resources we have and apply new techniques to find interesting ways to showcase Mexican culture,” he says. For the last 14 years, Castillo has worked throughout Mexico, the United States, and Canada. Much of his inspiration comes from his love of both Mexican and Asian cuisine, the seasonality of local ingredients, and what is current in the culinary scene. “I like to visit a lot of restaurants and see the different techniques and products being used.” When selecting squash and pumpkins, Castillo recommends looking for those that are firm and brightly coloured. “A great tip is to char them — it’s one of the few types of vegetables that can handle a char to that degree, and it is delicious.” His recipe for mussels and sikil p’aak (Mayan words meaning ‘pumpkin seeds’ and ‘tomatoes’ respectively) tostada highlights the seafood found in Yucatan, in Mexico, combined with a local dish from his hometown, and fond memories of his grandfather. “Every Sunday he loved to have a beer and either sardines or smoked mussels. He was my inspiration behind many of the elements of this dish.” 12 Culinaire | October 2021
Mussels and Sikil P’aak Tostada Serves 4
500 g steamed mussels 185 g can smoked mussels ¼ cup (60 mL) white vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) water 450 g whole Roma tomatoes 1 small white onion, peeled and halved 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 piece habanero pepper 1 cup (145 g) raw pumpkin seeds 1 Tbs kosher salt 2½ Tbs (37 mL) lime juice ½ bunch cilantro To taste salt and pepper 4 corn tostadas 50 g white onion, for garnish, sliced thin Cilantro leaves, for garnish 1. Blend together the smoked mussels, white vinegar, water and a pinch of salt until you have a smooth vinaigrette.
2. Char tomatoes, onions, garlic, and habanero under broiler, until a well-done black colour all around. 3. Preheat the oven to 400º F and toast pumpkin seeds until right after changing to a nice brown colour (depending on the size of the seed this could take 5 – 15 minutes). Set aside to cool. 4. Blend tomatoes, onions, garlic, and pumpkin seeds with half a piece of habanero for around 3 minutes until it is a soft puree. If you like something spicier, add the other half habanero. 5. In a bowl mix the steamed mussels with the smoked mussel vinaigrette and season to taste. 6. Using a spoon cover the tostada with pumpkin seed mixture (room temperature) and on top place the mussel mixture, covering the whole tostada with it. 7. Top it with sliced onions and cilantro. Enjoy at room temperature, as it helps create a contrast with the steamed mussels.
Ryan Roque has been a professional chef for 22 years. His formative years were spent growing up in his parents’ restaurant; later he apprenticed at the Banff Springs Hotel, where he made many lifelong friends and met his future wife. Now, he is a chef instructor at ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen in Calgary. “Here at the Blue Flame Kitchen we strive to help home cooks make meals from scratch, and have some fun along the way.” Roque’s mother is Italian, and together with her, his Nonna, and his aunts, he developed an appreciation for cooking. “That’s where I realized how much joy food can bring and unite family and friends,” he explains. Choosing the perfect squash for recipes is like choosing any other vegetable, says Roque. Look for firm unblemished flesh with a uniform colour and try to buy local whenever possible. And don’t forget the squash blossoms! “They can be hard to find but if you know someone growing squash they will probably have a lot to get rid of! You just want to use the outside of the blossom and they can be frozen to use later.” His recipe for pitelli (zucchini fritters) is from his mother’s side. As a youth, he watched his Nonna make them, and when she passed, Roque’s zia (aunt) Teresa showed him how it was done. “I’ve been making them ever since,” he says. “I’m a strong believer in making sure those treasured family recipes get passed down through the generations to keep the link to our past.”
Pitelli
Serves 4 Canola oil, for frying 1 large zucchini, grated 3 tsp fine sea salt, divided 3 cups (375 g) flour 2 Tbs baking powder 2 cups (500 mL) lukewarm water 1 egg 1 cup (85 g) finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided ½ cup basil, chopped ½ cup Italian parsley 1. Pre-heat a tabletop fryer or a heavybottomed pot with 7.5 cm of canola oil to 325º F. 2. Place grated zucchini in a mixing bowl and sprinkle with 2 tsp of salt, mix gently to incorporate. Let stand for 15-20 minutes, the salt will extract some of the moisture from the zucchini. 3. In a separate mixing bowl, combine flour, baking powder and remaining salt.
Whisk together to combine. 4. Squeeze the grated zucchini to remove as much excess water as possible. 5. Whisk the warm water and egg into the flour mixture; try to remove as many lumps as possible. Mixture will be quite thick. 6. Switch to a wooden spoon and fold in half of the Parmesan, basil, parsley, and zucchini. 7. Use a spoon and slide about 2 Tbs (30 mL) of batter into the hot oil and fry until golden brown, flipping a few times during cooking. 8. Place cooked fritters on a pan lined with paper towel and sprinkle each one with some of the remaining Parmesan. Enjoy while hot!
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. October 2021 | Culinaire 13
Welcome to the Jungle:
JUNGLE FARMS PROVIDES INTERACTIVE EDUCATION WITH A SIDE OF HARVEST PUMPKINS
BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
M
ost working farms are exactly that— workplaces where agricultural professionals grow and harvest the food that eventually lands on our tables, but a growing number of farmers are taking on an added business model that includes public-facing programming to help better connect consumers with the agricultural industry. The Jungle Farm, a family-owned farm just south of Red Deer, near Innisfail, falls into the latter category. With its welcoming bright red barn, regular farm tours, and educational programs, Leona
14 Culinaire | October 2021
Staples and her family have used the farm to create an agricultural facility that produces fresh food along with giving visitors a healthy understanding of where our food comes from. Staples’ family established the farm in 1867 when her great-grandparents, Jacob and Sophia Quartz, travelled west from Ontario to try their hand homesteading in Alberta. While the name Jungle Farm may seem like it was adopted to jibe with the farm’s current programming, it actually dates back to Jacob and Sophia’s time. While clearing their wooded land to make it more suitable for farming, the Quartz
family came across a bear living amongst the trees. They named their parcel of land “The Jungle Farm” in homage to the animal, and the name has stuck throughout the generations. Even though she has always been proud of her family’s legacy, Staples didn’t grow up dreaming of taking over the farm — she wanted a career in food and agricultural education. After getting a degree in home economics, she and Blaine (who has a degree in agriculture and very much did want to farm himself) took on management duties at the Goldeye Centre in Nordegg, where they
both picked up community building and educational skills as well as important business and marketing know-how. When Staples’ parents announced that they were preparing to retire in 1996, the couple moved back to the farm, but Staples knew that she’d have to get creative if she wanted to take over the family business without compromising her own career goals. “I was always really passionate about agriculture and I really wanted to stay in the agriculture world, but I had no intention of farming,” Staples says. “When we got back to the farm, we started doing things that really made my day, like school programs and opening the farm to the public so I could continue to do the education that was near and dear to my heart.” Staples’ parents, like most farmers in the area, were growing grain and also raising cattle, but in addition to the interactive elements that Staples dreamt of, she and Blaine also decided to play with what they were producing on the farm. While they’ve continued with grain farming, neither were all that interested in the cattle, so that was cut out and a neighbour who was involved with Innisfail Growers — a five-member collective of local farms that pool their resources to bring their offerings to farmers’ markets throughout the province — suggested that they try their hand at strawberries. As the first yield of berries hit the market, uninvited strawberry fans started showing up at Jungle Farms looking for a U-Pick experience that Staples felt obliged to provide. After researching what other innovative farms around North America
were doing, she’s also gradually developed a series of school and family programs, farm tours, special events and classes to draw curious visitors onto the farm. Jungle Farm’s U-Pick options remain a popular draw. While the farm sticks to a few key products like strawberries, spinach, pumpkins, and squash for its farmers’ market fare (Innisfail Growers members have an agreement not to compete with one another on specific crops), it has expanded the U-Pick options to include vegetables like potatoes, tomatoes, corn, and cauliflower, so that visitors can experience those harvests firsthand. “When we first came home to the farm, I thought I would do all sorts of different things, but the customer wasn’t ready for that,” Staples says. “They wanted to come and pick strawberries, but they didn’t want to dig potatoes and they didn’t want to walk very far. Now they want to experience it all. Once they’re here, they want their kids to see how cauliflower grows. The change in people’s patterns has been significant since we came home in 1996.” While spring and summer are busy times at the farm (though they have curtailed some activities this and last year in response to COVID-19), fall is also a going concern thanks to late vegetable harvest and, most importantly, U-Pick pumpkin season. This year the Staples had to cancel their corn maze for a second year in a row simply because they weren’t
able to bring their maze designer up from the States this spring. But the pandemic has made for busy farm days, with families looking for wholesome outdoor activities that will teach their kids about local food and addressing food security more than ever. That growing interest makes Staples feel secure that the farm will continue into a fifth generation, under the guidance of her three young adult sons. “We really believe in our mission to create a great farm experience by growing great food and providing education, and creating family memories,” Staples says. “And we’re thrilled to have three boys who are interested in continuing that at various levels because that gives us a path forward. It allows us to continue that excitement about growing and that interest in the world of food.” Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. October 2021 | Culinaire 15
Soup’s On! STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY
HerbyCulinaire October 2021 16 Vegetable| Soup
T
here is nothing like a chill in the air to start us craving a bowl of warm, comforting, hearty soup. It’s time to reach into your cupboard and pull out your stockpots, anticipating the delectable savouriness of that first spoon of soup that will warm you down to your toes. Making soup is easy. You sauté your base flavours, add your favourite herbs
and spices, pile in the heavy hitters and top with water or stock, and then let them mingle with each other until the flavours come together and you have a home run! Most of the cooking is hands off. If you can wait about an hour you can have a hearty soup that will fill you up, tastes great, and warms you up. Everything you want as the temperature dips outside.
Oven-Baked Pear Crisp and Pear Compote
Chicken and Mushroom Wild Rice Soup Serves 4
3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil ¾ cup onion ¾ cup carrot ¾ cup celery 1 tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 6 cloves garlic 2 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp dried rosemary 2 tsp dried oregano 40 g dried mushrooms 100g fresh mushrooms 1 chicken breast or 2 thighs 1/3 cup (80 mL) Madeira wine ¾ cup wild rice 2 cups (500 mL) mushroom stock (reserved) 4 cups (1 L) chicken stock Parsley for garnish 1. In a medium bowl, add dried mushrooms and 2 cups (500 mL) boiling water. Cover and let steep until
mushrooms have softened. Reserve liquid for soup. 2. In a medium sized pot, over medium heat add the olive oil. Add onion, carrot, and celery and cook 4 minutes. 3. Add salt and pepper as well as garlic, and continue cooking another 2 minutes. Add the herbs and stir together and cook another 3 minutes. 4. Slice the chicken into bite-sized pieces and add to pot, cook 4 minutes. Deglaze the pot with Madeira wine and let reduce to half. 5. Add the wild rice. Add the stocks and bring to a boil, reduce the heat and let cook 40 minutes or until rice is cooked through. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. 6. Garnish with finely chopped parsley.
Note:
if you don’t have any dried mushrooms, you can use all fresh mushrooms and all chicken stock.
Herby Vegetable Soup Serves 4
4 Tbs (60 mL) olive oil ¾ cup onion, small dice ¾ cup carrot, small dice ¼ red pepper, small dice ¾ cup celery, small dice ½ tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 6 cloves garlic 1 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp dried rosemary ½ tsp dried oregano ½ tsp dried sage ½ cup (120 mL) white wine 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable or chicken stock ½ small sweet potato, medium dice 1 cup cauliflower florets 1 cup broccoli florets ¾ cup zucchini, small dice ½ cup corn ½ cup peas 2 leaves swiss chard (or other leafy green) Lovage or parsley to garnish 1. In a medium sized pot, over medium heat add the olive oil. Add onion, carrot, red pepper and celery and cook 4 minutes. Add salt and pepper as well as garlic and continue cooking another 2 minutes. 2. Add the herbs and stir together and cook another 3 minutes. Deglaze the pot with white wine and let reduce to half. 3. Add the stock and bring to a boil, reduce the heat and let cook 5 minutes. 4. Add the sweet potatoes and let cook 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. 5. Add the cauliflower and broccoli and 18 Culinaire | October 2021
cook 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook 5 minutes. Add the corn, peas and swiss chard and warm through. 6. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Garnish with finely chopped lovage or parsley.
Moroccan Lentil Soup Serves 2 -3
3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil ½ cup onion, small dice ½ cup carrot, small dice ½ cup celery, small dice 1½ tsp salt 4 cloves garlic, rough chop 5 cm ginger, grated ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp dried turmeric 1½ tsp paprika 1½ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 3 Tbs (45 mL) tomato paste 5 cups (1.25 L) chicken or vegetable stock ½ lemon, zested
1½ cup dried red lentils Mint, almonds and lemon zest for garnish 1. In a medium pot over medium heat add the olive oil. Add onion, carrot and celery and cook 3 minutes. 2. Add salt, garlic and ginger and continue cooking another 3 minutes. Add the spices, stir together and cook another 3 minutes. 3. Add the tomato paste, stir and cook 3 minutes. 4. Pick through and wash the lentils. Add lentils and stock. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. 5. Cook 35 minutes or until lentils break down and the soup thickens. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. 6. To garnish - combine finely chopped mint, crushed almonds and lemon zest together and sprinkle on top. Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Serves
6
October 2021 | Culinaire 19
STEP BY STEP:
Marbled Pumpkin and Cream Cheese
Gingersnap Tart STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
T
hanksgiving is just around the corner and I can’t wait. The food is always fantastic, the weather is still decent, and there’s this beautiful amber light shimmering down. Plus there is very little drama like there is at Christmas - all you have to do is be thankful. That’s pretty easy. Preparing and sharing food with loved ones is one of life’s most simple pleasures. While everyone is tucking into their plates, I take a good look around at all of the lovely, gravy-stained faces, happy and thankful that I am where I am, and with who I’m with. Pumpkin pie seems to be the dessert of choice around Thanksgiving, and I’ll let you in on a little secret: I’m not a fan of the stuff. I mean, I’ll eat it if offered a slice, but overall I just find pumpkin pie a little underwhelming. Weird thing is I love pumpkin and all of the delicious spices it parties with so well. Pumpkin cheesecake is fabulous, but time consuming and a heavy hitter in the calories department. For something lighter and easier, I combined the best parts of pumpkin pie and cheesecake into a very pretty and delicious marbled tart. For the base, I used my food processor to grind up some store-bought ginger cookies. You can make your own and grind them up, but I like to use a good shortcut when I see one. I mixed these crumbs with good ol’ graham cracker crumbs. I find the two balance each other out well, but you could use all of one or the other. If you do use just plain graham, be sure to add some of those warm spices such as ginger, cinnamon and cloves to the mix. Once you have your crust completed, work on the fillings, which are pretty straightforward. I use canned pumpkin purée because it’s nice and thick and has such a reliable consistency. If you’re using homemade pumpkin purée be sure it is thick, and not too watery otherwise the quality of the tart will be compromised.
20 Culinaire | October 2021
I’m a huge fan of marbling cream cheese into baked goods, and the appearance of this tart when it comes out of the oven is so pleasing to the eye! The hardest part is waiting for it to cool down before cutting into it. You have two options when it comes to serving. Room temperature is fine, or you can refrigerate it and serve the tart cold, which is my preference. Thick and rich, but not overly heavy or sweet, this simple tart ticks all of those Thanksgiving dessert boxes. If there are any leftovers, a slice makes a dandy breakfast along with hot coffee. Be sure to have the recipe handy as I know you’ll get requests from your guests.
Marbled Pumpkin and Cream Cheese Gingersnap Tart Serves 8-10
Crust:
1¼ cups gingersnap cookie crumbs 1 cup graham cracker crumbs 5 Tbs (75 mL) melted butter
Cheesecake Batter:
170 g cream cheese, softened ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg
Pumpkin Batter:
2 large eggs 1¾ cups (425 mL) canned pumpkin purée 1/3 cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp salt ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp ground cardamom 1¼ cups (310 mL) whipping cream Preheat the oven to 425º F. 1. In a large bowl, combine the gingersnap cookie crumbs, graham cracker crumbs, and melted butter. The mixture should hold together when you squeeze it with your hands. If it doesn’t, add a small splash of water. Press the mixture firmly into the bottom
and up the side of a 25 cm tart pan with a removable bottom. I like to use the bottom and sides of a measuring cup for this step. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet. 2. Make the cheesecake batter: In the bowl of a small food processor, combine the cream cheese, sugar, and egg. Process until smooth, stopping to scrape the sides. 3. Make the pumpkin batter: In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Whisk in the pumpkin purée, sugars, spices, and salt. Gradually whisk in the whipping cream. 4. Pour the pumpkin batter into the prepared crust. The pan will be full. Using a soup spoon, dollop the cheesecake batter over the top. Use a sharp knife to marble the two together in a decorative manner. Try not to pierce the crust. 5. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 350º F and bake for another 30-40 minutes, or until the filing is set and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. 6. Cool the tart completely on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature, or if like me, cold from the refrigerator. Any leftovers will keep in the fridge for a few days, though the crust will soften. Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.
The Results of the 2021
ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS BY TOM FIRTH, COMPETITION DIRECTOR PHOTOS BY JASON DZIVER
22 Culinaire | October 2021
2021
A
s we approached our ninth Alberta Beverage Awards, my thoughts turned to relationships. It was time to give credit to the people involved in a huge undertaking like this. From our stewards in the back room - many who have worked on competitions long before these Awards – and to our judges, who bring their expertise to these long days of tasting. After 9 years, this experience and accumulated knowledge make for a smooth operation, completely due to the cool capability of our stewards. They check that bottles are in the right spots, and that samples are the correct temperature. They know where everything is, how to find it, and what needs to be done. A competition like this is a massive undertaking. Long before the first cork is pulled, we are confirming dates and commitments, preparing materials, revising and improving the endeavour, and critically looking at what didn’t work quite as planned last year. Again, we knew that the ongoing pandemic was a consideration, and forced to wait until the picture became clear. This year, we saw a massive increase in entries. Nearly 1150 entries were submitted, and every category saw a significant increase; in some ways, due
to the ongoing uncertainty - no one can accurately predict what, or how much Albertans will be drinking in the year ahead. In many ways the Alberta Beverage Awards are a microcosm of the world to come. The products we saw include stalwart and trusted labels, spirits widely produced at home and abroad, so many wonderful beers and ciders, and also the rapidly growing ready to drink and bottled cocktails categories. With about 35 percent growth over last year, we had the equivalent increase in scores to enter, paperwork involved, time to set up the back room... Add to the mix our judges, almost a dozen stewards, more than 5000 glasses to be polished, labelled, filled, served, and cleared over three days in July. In each category is a “Best in Class”, which is the top performer in its category, followed by “Judges’ Selection” which are the other high performing wines in the category. In several categories, there is also a “Top Value” - a Judges’ Selection wine that has been identified by the Culinaire editors as providing excellent value as well. As every retailer is different, in many cases we’ve included a range for the retail price. Many Albertabased products on these pages might only be available at the cellar door,
so I’d suggest trying to find them on the shelf, or contacting them directly – spending your dollars locally makes a tremendous impact in our communities. Each product also has a “CSPC” number, which can be used to help you find it at your local retailer or at liquorconnect.com. Some products also have a symbol to identify products that not only did well this year, but also in previous years, indicating that this product is consistently good. We’d like to thank our partners at Calgary’s Carriage House Inn, including Lino Savino and Roxane Carlson, and our photographer Jason Dziver - the preeminent bottle photographer in the country. Thanks also to Medium Rare Chef Apparel, The Import Vintners & Spirits Association, and to Spirit Wares. We couldn’t do all this without Len Steinberg and our stewards – Mairi, Danielle, Chelsea, Grant, Patrick, Lana, Paul, and Colleen. And thank you to all the importers, producers, and partners that entrust us with their products. We are looking forward to 2022, when we will be celebrating our tenth year of the Alberta Beverages Awards, and we will be working hard once again to share with you the very best we taste. 2020
October 2021 | Culinaire 23
2021
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Edge 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, California
I once heard said about cabernet sauvignon, that it’s- to quote- “no (effing) fun”. This person wasn’t wrong, though perhaps his sentiment managed to ignore part of what makes this “king of grapes” so good. Cabernet sauvignon is classic. It’s textbook, it’s the epitome of varietal correctness. Tasting one blind, it’s all but impossible to discuss it without descriptors like cherry, cassis, or bell peppers. These award winners are all exceptional examples of this wonderful grape, and you might just have a little fun with them too. Tom Firth
FREEMARK ABBEY 2016 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
2018
2016
Napa Valley, California $65-70 CSPC 728673
2014
2020
Angus the Bull 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
$42-45 CSPC 80374
$22-24 CSPC 713074
Trentadue 2018 La Storia Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, California $35-38 CSPC 744552
2020
2018
Josh Cellars 2017 Paso Robles Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California $30-33 CSPC 795561
Mi Terruno 2018 Expresion Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina $20-23 CSPC 837089
TOP VALUE ESCORIHUELA 1884 2018 ESTATE GROWN CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Trim 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon California
$23-26 CSPC 869545
Mendoza, Argentina
$19-21 CSPC 740170
2020
24 Culinaire | October 2021
Kolonist 2017 Cabernet Bessarabia, Ukraine $25-27 CSPC 820023
Photo: Erik McRitchie
Mountain Tapas? Yes, Please! Bringing
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Photo: Kendal & Kevin
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Photo: Kendal & Kevin
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GIN
The breadth of styles and increasing numbers of high-quality gin available in Alberta keeps this section of the competition lively. Canadian-made gin was well represented, along with New Zealand and the UK, in the top 10 - there is something for all gin lovers here. The Irish gin that nabbed the top spot, Ninth Wave, is a beautifully balanced, a citrus-forward spirit whose name and packaging evokes Celtic mythology. Mary Bailey
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
Tippa’s Lovebird Gin Alberta, Canada
Pivot Spirits Winter Gin Alberta, Canada
$42-47 CSPC 817159
2019
2019
$43-47 CSPC 841979
2020
Last Best Savage Love Alberta, Canada $45-50 CSPC 834648
Rocky Mountain Summit Ultra Premium Gin Alberta, Canada
$45-50 CSPC 834650
$42-44
BEST IN CLASS NINTH WAVE GIN Ireland
2020
26 Culinaire | October 2021
$46-49 CSPC 814732
2020
Last Best Fortunella Alberta, Canada
$56-60 CSPC 826650
Scapegrace Premium Small Batch Dry Gin New Zealand
Pivot Spirits Farmacy Gin Alberta, Canada $43-45 CSPC 833864
Crabbie Goat Dry Gin Alberta, Canada $60-62 CSPC 836528
MEET THE JUDGES
MARY BAILEY
Two Rivers Distillery Cockscomb Gin Alberta, Canada $50-52 CSPC 828668
2020
Last Best Afterglow Gin Alberta, Canada $45-50 CSPC 834647 2019
2020
Roundabout Gin Alberta, Canada $37-37 (473mL) CSPC 819615
2019
Join us on a Safari… brunch! Come to the Calgary Zoo and experience the most unique brunch in town. After, you have the rest of the day to enjoy your favourite animals. Buy tickets today at calgaryzoo.com
* Brunch is held every Sunday from 9:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. in the heart of Destination Africa.
Cotswolds Dry Gin United Kingdom
$73-77 CSPC 809791
The editor of The Tomato food & drink, Mary is a certified sommelier, WSET diploma holder, and Canadian Culinary Competition judge. She loves judging at the Alberta Beverage Awards as the products are top notch, the completion stiff, and the judging lively. Tasting wines, spirits, and related products blind is the true, unbiased measure of a palate for Mary, as is judging with fellow wine and spirit professionals.
MEAD - ALL TYPES
It is always exciting to see how the mead categories are shaking out during the judging days of the Alberta Beverage Awards. Not only are we always learning about the traditional styles of mead being produced, but there is always something new under the sun in these categories. This year, we had such a breadth of entries, it was near impossible to highlight the uniqueness of all the producers, so we had to put them into a larger, broader category. Whether you call them mead, honey wine, flower wine, or just plain delicious, I hope you can try some of our recommended examples. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) PRAIRIE BEE MEADERY FRUIT FUSION HONEY WINE Saskatchewan Canada $25-27 CSPC 840105
Tamarack Jack’s The Surveyor Alberta, Canada
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
TAMARACK JACK’S JACKS AXE
$15 Litre/Growler CSPC 852778
Stolen Harvest Birch Hills Traditional Alberta, Canada $32 (750mL)
Maxwell Mead Australia
$27-29 CSPC 824549
Alberta, Canada
$5-6 (355ML CAN) CSPC 811632
Grey Owl Pinot Alberta, Canada
$23-25 CSPC 854599
Stolen Harvest Ryan’s Reserve Special Edition Melomel Alberta, Canada
JUDGES SELECTION
Tamarack Jack’s Sawyer Alberta, Canada
$5-6 (355mL can) CSPC 824037
28 Culinaire | October 2021
2018
2019
2020
2020
$34-35 (500mL)
Tamarack Jack’s Swamp Water Alberta, Canada $5-6 (355mL can) CSPC 805770
Tamarack Jack’s Buzzsaw Alberta, Canada
$5-6 (355mL can) CSPC 824041
2021
NON-ALCOHOLIC BEER
Beer with an ABV (Alcohol By Volume) of less than 0.05 percent is what we see here. Their existence dates back to medieval times and became prominent during the Prohibition period of the 1920s – being referred to as ‘Near Beer’ or ‘Small Beer’. Once the beer is made, it is de-alcoholised through a heating or reverse osmosis process. Alcohol creates the body of beer, enhancing flavour, texture and mouth feel, while it is important to have a balance of flavour from malt and hops. My favourites are the darker stout and porter styles in this category. Andrew Paulsen
BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
CRFT NON-ALCOHOLIC PALE ALE
Big Drop Galactic Dark Noir Gluten Free United Kingdom
Canada
$13-14 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 852409
Tempest Brewing Sleight of Hand Sour Pale Ale Scotland
$5 (440mL) CSPC 856671
$4-5 (355mL) CSPC 849152
CRFT Non-Alcoholic Velvety Stout Canada $13-14 (4-pack cans) CSPC 852407
ANDREW PAULSEN
Originally from Australia, Andrew studied wine from a marketing perspective, and over the last 30 years living in Canada, he has been involved in food and beverage at restaurant and retail levels, becoming a certified ISG sommelier, level 3 WSET, and instructing for both. Andrew is also a Certified Cicerone – the beer sommelier equivalent. A student of history and a penchant for travelling has made a career in wine and beer a natural fit for Andrew, now in his 9th year as a sommelier with Co-op Wine Spirits Beer in Calgary.
Sober Carpenter Organic Session IPA Non-Alcoholic Craft Beer Canada
WellBeing Brewing Hellraiser Amber Ale United States
$15-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 856717
$12-13 (4-pack cans)
couverture chocolate Biscotti & Spice our makes everything nice • 2 1/2 cups flour or Cut Cooking Gluten free flour blend* • 1 tsp. baking soda • 1 tsp salt • 2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice • 1/3 cup butter • 1 cup brown sugar • 2 large eggs • 2 tsp vanilla • 2 tbsp molasses • 2 tbsp icing sugar for “dusting” • 6oz Cococo semisweet couverture chocolate, chopped into pieces • Pistachios, chopped into pieces *Cut Cooking Gluten free flour blend is available at www.CococoChocolatiers.com
Gingerbread Biscotti / thanks to www.CutCooking.com 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Combine all ingredients except icing sugar and chocolate into electric mixer and stir well. 3. Divide dough into 2 halves. Using your hands, form each dough half as a “loaf” on a parchment lined baking sheet. Dust icing sugar over each loaf using a sieve. 6. Bake for 30 minutes. 7. Remove from oven and let cool for 5-7 minutes. 8. Slice loaves into pieces approximately 3/4”– 1” thick. 9. Flip each slice on its flat side and place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake again at 350°F for 10 min. 10. Let biscotti fully cool. While biscotti is cooling, finely chop the pistachios. 12. Temper the semisweet chocolate using the microwave. Tempering instructions are available at www.cococochocolatiers.com/blogs/recipes/how-to-temper-chocolate 13. Working quickly, dip biscotti in tempered chocolate and then roll in pistachios. 14. Place dipped biscotti back on the parchment to let chocolate and pistachios set.
chocolate together
chocolate together
Shop in person at 5 locations | Easy curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights Shop online: www.CococoChocolatiers.com Recipes: www.CococoChocolatiers.com/blogs/recipes
October 2021 | Culinaire 29
2021
SYRAH/ SHIRAZ
Most often associated with France’s Rhone Valley, syrah – aka shiraz, has found success all around the world. When judging a single grape category, it is always enjoyable to have to chance to try different representations of the same grape alongside each other. It really nails down typicity, and the characteristics to look for when recognizing quality in a wine. While the category used to be dominated by Australia and France, it’s great to see our neighbours really coming into their own and crafting some beautiful syrah in British Columbia! Margaux Burgess
BEST IN CLASS
Rust 2018 Syrah
Black Sage Bench, British Columbia $54-60 CSPC 145113
Faber 2018 Riche Shiraz Swan Valley, Australia $38-42 CSPC 832692
Black Hills 2018 Syrah Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
WINEMAKER’S CUT 2018 SYRAH Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
$42-46 CSPC 746272
$31-35 CSPC 840209
2019
2021
2018
2015
HAZY, NEW ENGLAND PALE ALES
There is a thin line between the hazy NEPA (New England Pale Ale) and the NEIPA (New England IPA). Usually, it’s at the whimsy of the brewer as to which is which, but there tends to be slightly less bitterness and lower alcohol in the NEPA. Appearance-wise, there is very little difference, as both are cloudy, and range from yellow to light orange in colour. We found some of our NEPAs also had a touch of sweetness to them, something almost never found in NEIPAs. Dave Nuttall
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS CABIN BREWING SUPER SATURATION Alberta, Canada
$17-19 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 812975
2019
Township 24 Hijacked Kayak Hazy Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 848465 30 Culinaire | October 2021
Phillips Glitterbomb Hazy Pale Ale British Columbia Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 824474
Hawk Tail New England Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 829732
Best of Kin Mom Perm Alberta Canada
$12-14 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849049
2021
COGNAC/ BRANDY
A small category this year, but what we did see was reflective of the quality and the tremendous value inherent in cognac. While these brandies may have fallen a little out of fashion over the last hundred years or so, as more imbibers are looking for quality-driven sipping spirits, and ones to savour neat or in spirit-forward cocktails - it’s never been a better time to look to cognac. Get rid of those snifters though! Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS DROUET COGNAC VSOP
DAVE GINGRICH
Dave started his career at Willow Park Wines and Spirits over 20 years ago and found a place in the Beer World as a young man. Through trips around the world and 15 years of experience, Dave has really built quite a name for himself and the Willow Park Beer section with his Dave The Beer Guy persona. Over the years Dave has also embraced two other specialty categories, Sake and Mead, which add a fun dynamic to the sales floor. Dave is usually happy and jovial and loves making people laugh.
France
$55-60 CSPC 737390
JUDGES SELECTION Deau Cognac VSOP France $75-80 CSPC 820701
2021 Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer is pleased to offer four special October packs of award winning wines, beers, and spirits from the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards!
Food Friendly Libations:
Cocktail Worthy Creations:
six mouthwatering recipes included
3 Award Winning bottles of Vodka, Whisky, & Tequila!
Special for October, only $144.99!
Special for October, only $132.99!
A mixed case of 6 Best In Class Wines!
cocktail recipes included
Highly Rated Reds: A mixed case of 6 Award Winning Red Wines!
Special for October, only $122.99!
Buzz Worthy Brews:
A mixed case of 12 Award Winning Beers!
Special for October, only $51.99!
Now available online at rmwsb.com or in-store Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer 5-225 58 Avenue SE, Calgary • 403.305.0096 • Info@rockymountainwinespiritsbeer.com
2021
ROSÉ
Mathilde Chapoutier 2019 Grand Ferrage Rosé Provence, France $20-24 CSPC 793214
Rosé, is by far the most talked about wine category at the moment - because it’s just that good. These wines see anywhere from four hours of skin contact to give that pretty pink or orange tinge, to some that are on the skins for perhaps a couple days with a deeper red and magenta colour. With so many great examples we chose the winners with the best structural balance and flavour intensity. This was a category that the judges deliberated with a finetooth comb, as there were so many fantastic examples submitted from dry to off dry in style. Cam Pinkney
Masi 2020 Rosa di Masi Veneto, Italy
JUDGES SELECTION
$18-20 CSPC 780382
BEST IN CLASS THE VIBRANT VINE 2020 ROSÉ Okanagan Valley British Columbia
$26-30 CSPC 824644
2020
$17-20 CSPC 848041
32 Culinaire | October 2021
$25-27 CSPC 736523
2019
2020
City & Country Winery 2020 Okanagan Rosé Alberta, Canada
Alto Adige, Italy
When someone says “cream liqueur”, most of us instantly think of Irish Cream, but there is so much more to the category these days! With offerings from right here in Canada, to South Africa, the Netherlands, and Guyana, it’s fair to say that “Irish” is no longer synonymous with “Cream Liqueur”. On their own there is no denying that these concoctions are sweet, but splash some into your coffee and you’ve got a perfectly balanced beverage. And if you have a sweet tooth like me, try them over ice cream! Erin Loader
Sandhill 2020 Rosé Terroir Driven Wine Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
$23-26 CSPC 834295
MEZZACORONA 2020 DOLEMITI ROSÉ
2021
$23-26 CSPC 785381
Peak Cellars 2020 Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
TOP VALUE
CREAM LIQUEURS
Markus Huber 2020 Rosé Lower Austria, Austria
$26-28 CSPC 845986
BEST IN CLASS JUDGES SELECTION EL DORADO BUTTER PECAN CREAM Guyana
$23-26 CSPC 837623
Amarula Velvet Dream Cream Liqueur Cream Liqueur South Africa Netherlands
$30-34 CSPC 342246 $56-60 CSPC 845670
2021
ALES
CREAM, GOLDEN, AND BLONDE
One of the most difficult categories to judge, these are three expressions of a basic ale, so a brewery needs to be just killing it to stand out here. These ales can vary based on where they come from - Belgian goldens and blondes are a more tantalizing example, whereas cream ales have been slowly lagered to be smooth and crisp like a lager. This is usually a style that breweries make to keep the lager drinker happy as they take less time to make. Imperial City’s Goodbye Gravity took the cream ales and golden category, while Banded Peaks Gate Razer Vermont Blonde crushed the blonde category. Dave Gingrich
SHOP. EAT. LICENSED. SUPPORT
45 local businesses including
BEST IN CLASS IMPERIAL CITY GOODBYE GRAVITY CREAM ALE Ontario, Canada
$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849036
WALKERS OWN PRODUCE
JUDGES SELECTION Banded Peak Brewing Gate Razer Vermont Blonde Ale Alberta, Canada
Delta Hopethecary Blonde Ale Alberta, Canada
High River Belvedere Punk Rock Golden Ale Alberta, Canada
Annex Good Authority Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 841912
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 852655
$15-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 849393
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 826628
Open All Year Long Calgary’s Local Food HUB brings together passionate shoppers and sustainable local food artisans, producers and gift ideas throughout the year.
EVENTS Thursdays
Live Music Night: 5:30-7:30p
Fridays
Dinner & a Movie: 11:00a-8:00p
Saturdays
All Day Appies $5: 11:00a-8:00p 2020
Sundays
All Day Brunch: 11:00a-5:00p
Banded Peak Brewing Fired Up Hazy Blonde Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 844559
Revival Brewcade Homebound Blonde Ale Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 846459
2020
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Shop online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca
2021
BEST IN CLASS
AMBER ALES
MARDA LOOP RED TROLLEY AMBER ALE
Mid-way between light and dark ales, amber ales are usually a pretty basic category of malt-forward beers, however this year it was full of absolute lip smackers. We had from sticky-sweet to dry, fruity and cereal-driven with a crisp, hoppy finish, all the way to those head scratchers which you’re not sure how to describe - but still pleasantly surprised. Marda Loop Red Trolley amber took the category hands down, so perfect. Dave Gingrich
JUDGES SELECTION
Bow River Brewing High Country Amber Alberta, Canada $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 812677 2020
2021
Alberta, Canada
$17-19 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 827773
rök Code 6 Amber Ale Alberta Canada
$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 849060
PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO
Hard Knox Brewery Grunt Work Amber Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 803934
Wild Goose 2020 Pinot Gris
Pinot gris is a real split-personality grape. Grow it to ripeness in a warm, dry climate such as Alsace, France, and you get a rich, voluptuous pinot gris with floral and honeyed pear notes — especially if the wine spends some time in oak. Put the same grape in a cooler zone, such as northern Italy, and give it pure stainless-steel treatment in the cellar, and the result is a trim, bright and spicy pinot grigio. Everyone has their favourite. There are both styles in this group, plus others that fall somewhere in between. Darren Oleksyn
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $24-25 CSPC 536227
2020
BEST IN CLASS BARONE MONTALTO 2018 BIO PINOT GRIGIO Sicily, Italy $17-20 CSPC 848041
TOP VALUE MANDORLA 2019 PINOT GRIGIO Veneto, Italy
$10-11 CSPC 828360
2020
JUDGES SELECTION
Co-op 2019 Private Reserve Pinot Grigio Sicily, Italy $14 CSPC 746964
Noble Ridge 2019 Reserve Pinot Grigio Okanagan Falls, British Columbia $26-29 CSPC 738483
Ex Nihilo 2020 Pinot Gris Lake Country, British Columbia $25-28 CSPC 740136
34 Culinaire | October 2021
2021
FRUIT LIQUEURS
A small but mighty category year after year, we also find that the judges are consistently picking these sweet treats that show off purity of fruit, but also some measure of balance. The glass needs to have a prominent fruitness, but also some acidity. Like all good liqueurs, they should inspire the imagination a little and bring to mind food – and cocktail ideas to the fore. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS ZUIDAM CASSIS Netherlands $38-42 CSPC 795797
NATHALIE GOSSELIN
A graduate of the University of Quebec, Montreal native Nathalie moved west in 2004 and embarked on a 10-year adventure as Conference Manager at the Banff Centre. Recruited to partner in business, she pursued her passion and became Vine Styles’ CED (Chief Experience Designer). With hard work, dedication and amazing multi-tasking skills, Nathalie has been the sole owner of Vine Styles since 2019.
JUDGES SELECTION
Rossi d’Asiago Limoncello Italy $29-32 CSPC 732821
Barrelling Tide Cherry Liqueur Nova Scotia, Canada $28-32 (375 mL) 846213
www.edmondderothschildheritage.com
Rimapere Sauvignon Blanc 2019 NEW ZEALAND
Chateau des Laurets 2016 FRANCE
Gran Malbec 2014 ARGENTINA
Taste the World Available in fine wine boutiques Alberta wide (CSPC) -- NEW ZEALAND --
Rimapere Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (761002)
-- FRANCE --
La Croix de Laurets 2016 (805130) Chateau des Laurets 2016 (371401) Chateau des Laurets Le Baron 2015 (805135)
-- ARGENTINA --
Aguaribay Malbec 2018 (738664) Flechas de Los Andes Gran Malbec 2014 (738662) Gran Corte 2012 (Malbec, Syrah, Cab Franc) (738663)
92 PTS.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM
romerodistilling.com
91 PTS.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM
Edmond de Rothschild Heritage wines span three continents each with exceptional terroir producing extraordinary wines.
Exclusively imported by: www.galileowineandspirits.com
2021
MOONSHINE AND UNAGED SPIRITS
BEST IN CLASS
Me? I love this category, though I confess to being a little saddened about the direction it is going. As our numbers of local distilleries continues to increase, and the ages of the existing distilleries increases, many just aren’t making moonshine – or these raw, unaged base spirits like they used to. On the flip side, we are seeing some incredible, local whiskies starting to show up on shelves, but it’s coming at the cost of what were some ground-breaking, notable shines. Tom Firth
CRABBIE GOAT ROOT BEER MOONSHINE Alberta, Canada
$30-33 CSPC 836518
JUDGES SELECTION
Hansen Secret Stash Moonshine Alberta, Canada $35 - $40 CSPC 828170
Back 40 Distillery Smooth Oak Blend (S.O.B), Alberta, Canada
Bridgeland St.Paddy’s 3X Distilled Alberta, Canada
$36-40 CSPC 825065
$34-36 (375mL) CSPC 848183
Skunkworks Moonshine Alberta, Canada $37-40 CSPC 825931
2020
I’m often asked whether I prefer a blend or a wine made from a single varietal? Truth is, I like them both for different reasons. One huge benefit of a single varietal is the grape can really shine. It can also give you a window into the climate. Cool climate wines have higher acidity and lower alcohol than those from warmer climates. I suggest buying two bottles of the same varietal, preferably from the same vintage, one from a cool climate and one from a warm climate and see for yourself the differences and similarities in the wine. Laurie MacKay
BEST IN CLASS GRUBER 2020 GRÜNER VELTLINER Weinviertel, Austria $23-26 CSPC 785338
36 Culinaire | October 2021
d’Arenberg The Money Spider 2020 Roussanne McLaren Vale, Australia $23-26 CSPC 71691
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
WHITE SINGLE VARIETIES
Gray Monk 2020 Pinot Auxerrois Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25-28 CSPC 96222
Boschendal Sommelier Selection 2020 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa
2020
$19-22 CSPC 804595
Corte Giacobbe 2020 Soave della Venezie Venezia, Italy $22-24 CSPC 765064
VWM_BRILLA_091421_RM.pdf
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Judges’ Selection Prosecco +838906
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WHISKY/ WHISKEY
This category could have been notable for what it wasn’t. It wasn’t Single Malt Scotch. It wasn’t Bourbon. In the end, it was a highlight category for what it was, a diverse array of spicy and lively whiskies from Europe and North America. Some had peat, others the smooth richness that comes from corn. But they all stood on their own. In the end the winners were the whiskies that showed the best balance between spice, richness and smoothness without over-the-top alcohol fire. Darren Oleksyn
BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
EAU CLAIRE DISTILLERY RUPERT’S EXCEPTIONAL CANADIAN WHISKY
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
Wayne Gretzky No.99 Red Cask Whisky Canada $44-48 CSPC 796995 2017
2020
Syndicate 58/6 12 Year Old Blended Whisky United Kingdom $75-80 CSPC 792743 2019
2020
Signal Hill Whisky
Canada $40-43 CSPC 800776
2019
Alberta, Canada $35-46 CSPC 832043
Hinch 5yo Double Wood Irish Whiskey Ireland $61-65 CSPC 826653
COOPER’S RANSOM RYE WHISKEY United States
$105-115 CSPC 809793
38 Culinaire | October 2021
Great Plains 18 yr Old Jerez Brandy Finished Whisky Alberta, Canada $126-140 CSPC 826435
Black Velvet Original Canada
$25-30 CSPC 539
Coopers Classic American Whiskey United States
$89-95 CSPC 788774
Pivot Spirits Young Guns Triticale Alberta, Canada $42-46 CSPC 837847
2021
HARD TEA
BEST IN CLASS
READY TO DRINK
Having a Hard Tea category was a pleasant surprise in the Ready to Drink flights at this year’s Alberta Beverage Awards. The top picks are flavourful, refreshing, and not too sweet, with well-integrated alcohol levels. This year’s Best in Class was from the Troubled Monk Brewery with their Hard Iced Tea. A great choice post hike or after a round of golf… Bruce Soley
TROUBLED MONK TROUBLED TEA HARD ICED TEA Alberta, Canada
$25-26 (12-PACK CANS) CSPC 836807
JUDGES SELECTION White Peaks Hard Steeped Tea - Cold Brew Tea & Lemonade Alberta, Canada $28-32 (12-pack cans variety pack) CSPC 845038
2021
White Peaks Hard Steeped Tea - Wild Saskatoon Blueberry Alberta, Canada $14-15 (6-pack cans) CSPC 844842
Kikawinaw Sparkling Gin Tea - Rig Hand Alberta, Canada
White Peaks Hard Steeped Tea - Original with Meyer Lemon Alberta, Canada
$15-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 839156
$14-15 (6-pack cans) CSPC 844838
BORDEAUX BLEND/ MERITAGE
The red grapes in this style are blends of some or all of: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petit verdot. I think of these wines as a consistent and confident choice because of these grape varietals, some are going to have a great growing vintage while others might not in any given year. It may be a slightly different blend each year, but you can create consistency through blending. This year’s entries were star-studded and jam-packed, with flavour, concentration and structure, worthy of laying down in the cellar for many years. Cam Pinkney
BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
BENCH 1775 2015 CABERNET MERLOT
PELLER FAMILY VINEYARDS 2018 CABERNET MERLOT
Okanagan Valley British Columbia $28-30 CSPC 483529
JUDGES SELECTION Sandhill 2018 Cabernet Merlot Terroir Driven Wine Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25-27 CSPC 541144
2019
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $17-20 CSPC 56564
Chateau Courteillac 2018 Les Grands Chais France Bordeaux, France $18-20 CSPC 360552
October 2021 | Culinaire 39
2021
CIDERS
JUDGES SELECTION
I have a confession to make. I am a wannabe cidermaker! There is something about the sweet-tart balance in apples that appeals to me. Apple cider can make a great alternative to white wine. Like wine, there is a broad range of styles from sparkling to still, and dry to sweet, to only apples (the type of apple plays a major role too!) and those with other fruits. In Calgary, I know of cideries that organize a fruit drive each year asking for donations of unwanted fruit from backyard trees. I applaud this initiative and am always excited to taste these ciders. Laurie MacKay
BEST IN CLASS {APPLE} Ontario, Canada
$15-16 (4-pack can) CSPC 826761
Rock Creek Dry Cider Apple Alberta, Canada $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 693150 2017
Village Cider Alberta, Canada $15-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 801694
2019
Uncommon Cider 2019 YYC Community Cider Alberta Canada
Bulwark Cider House Bulwark Blush Cider Nova Scotia Canada $7-9 (500mL) CSPC 766181
$20 (750mL) CSPC 841385
LA PETITE ABEILLE SPARKLING APPLE & PEAR CIDER
ROCK CREEK DRY CIDER GINGER APPLE
SUNNYCIDER SASKATOON APPLE CIDER
$25-26 (750mL) CSPC 855797
$14-16 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 842658
$15-16 (4-PACK CAN) CSPC 826762
British Columbia Canada
Mango Passion Fruit by Wild Tea Kombucha Alberta, Canada $28-32 $14-15 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849007
Alberta, Canada
Rock Creek Dry Cider Pear Alberta, Canada $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 769474
2020
40 Culinaire | October 2021
SunnyCider Apple Cider Alberta, Canada
2018
$23 (750mL) CSPC 834331
$4-6 (473mL) CSPC 846095
JUDGES SELECTION
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 800712
Uncommon Cider 2018 YYC Community Cider Alberta, Canada
THORNBURY PREMIUM APPLE CIDER
BEST IN CLASS APPLES & OTHER FRUITS - TIE
No Boats on Sunday 100% BC Cider British Columbia, Canada
2018
Alberta, Canada
Uncommon Cider Haskap Apple Cider Alberta, Canada
$5-6 (473mL can) CSPC 836841
2018
2021
PILSNER
The most famous lager style in the world had its origins in Bohemia in the mid-1800s and was identified by its clear, light golden colour, distinct Saaz hops, and its crisp, clean mouthfeel. The style grew to become a German favourite, using their own local noble hops, and often called it Pils. These two similar beers have been transported to every beer-producing country on earth and have recently become craft brewing staples. Pilsners now employ a variety of hops and the black pilsner has also become more popular. Dave Nuttall
JUDGES SELECTION Banff Ave Black Pil Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 817428
BEST IN CLASS
Cabin Brewing Luminosity Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 853124
Apex Predator Rushing Waters Bohemian Pilsner Alberta, Canada
$15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 806446
2019
2020
OMEN TAKE YOUR PILS Alberta, Canada
$15-18 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 853088
Piston Broke Brewing Kickin’ Back Pilsner Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans)
Jasper Brewing Crisp Pils Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 793110
2020
2021
BEST IN CLASS
APERITIVO
VENTI L-AMARO ITALIANO
Traditionally a pre-dinner drink to cleanse your palate, the most famous aperitvo is the simple, yet classic Spritz, seen on every corner in Venice, Italy. Along with other aperitivos, it embraces the perfect combination of bitter and sweet flavours, enhanced with herbs and botanicals from a spirit, or from the wine-based “Amaro”. This liqueur can be enjoyed in a cocktail, like the Negroni, or on its own in a small glass. The entries this year were truly stunning, and garnered my highest scores across the board with their complex and balanced expressions. Peter Smolarz
Italy
$50-52 (700mL) CSPC 820748
2019
2020
JUDGES SELECTION
Nonino l’Aperitivo Botanical Italy
$50-53 (700mL) CSPC 828409
2021
Nonino Amaro Italy
$53-55 (700mL) CSPC 707179
ASIAN WHISKIES
Always a flight that is eagerly anticipated for me, once again this lineup of Japanese and South Korean whisky did not disappoint. Expertly crafted examples in every style - from rich, smoky sippers to light, lively seductive styles that warm the palate. The entire flight was outstanding and it was hard to pick a true winner. If you haven’t had a chance to sample one of these wondrous elixirs, head on down to your nearest boutique store and give one a try - you won’t be disappointed. Bruce Soley
Field Notes Don’t Call Me Sweet Pea Alberta, Canada
Sexy AF Amar-Oh Canada
$40-42 (750mL) CSPC 841534
$38-40 (500mL) CSPC 854694
BEST IN CLASS HWAYO X. PREMIUM RICE WHISKY South Korea
$215-235 CSPC 839927
JUDGES SELECTION Kujira Ryukyu Single Grain Whisky 5 Years Old Japan $95-105 CSPC 840199
42 Culinaire | October 2021
Sunday’s Japanese Whisky Japan
$85-90 CSPC 833870
Togouchi Pure Malt Japan
$90-95 CSPC 844296
2021
COOLERS & PREMIXED DRINKS READY TO DRINK
These drinks, in some ways – need no introduction. From those distant days of Bartles & Jaymes Wine Coolers, to the Jack Daniels Lynchburg Lemonades, and eventually on to the Mike’s Hard craze, these ready to drink, delicious slices of summer-ready, refreshing bevvies hit the spot. From a casual get together, to a company barbecue (remember those?) to apres-ski, or even just a grown up version of a pop after dinner. A ready to drink beverage is always a good thing to have on hand at home. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) MATT & STEVE’S HOT & SPICY CAESAR
BILL BONAR
FOUNDER’S ORIGINAL BOURBON SOUR
Canada $4-6 (473mL) CSPC 834805
Alberta, Canada $14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 842901
Bill is a seasoned veteran of the restaurant industry, and one of Canada’s first Certified Cicerones (Beer Sommelier). Over a 25-year (and then some) career, he’s served and managed such places as Taste, (R.I.P.) Brasserie, (R.I.P.) and Divino, (R.I.P.) Despite all of those successes, he opened Rain Dog Bar in February 2020, and that’s where you can find him now. He’s there near every day.
2020
JUDGES SELECTION Crazy Uncle Hard Root Beer Canada
$3-4 (473mL) CSPC 779697
CoCo Vodka Original Canada $14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 847615
2020
Fitzsimmons Allo Monday Pink Lemonade Hard Selzer Alberta, Canada $14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 841565
Crazy Uncle Cream Soda Canada
$3-4 (473mL) CSPC 785527
Grizzly Paw Mountain Mule Alberta, Canada $13-15 (4-pack cans) CSPC 808941
Pivot Spirits & Piston Broke Brewing Beergarita Alberta, Canada $18-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 852369
2020
Dark Woods Brewing Mango Peeler Alberta, Canada $18-21 (6-pack cans) CSPC 854418
CoCo Rum Original United States $14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 847616
2020
October 2021 | Culinaire 43
2021
FRUIT WINES
JUDGES SELECTION
While fruit wines aren’t unique to Canada, or even to Alberta, we see a surprising number of quality-focused local producers making wine from local berries in Western Canada. These are often the epitome of a cottage winery, a farm with real people making a real product; honestly, to be successful, you have to make good products indicative of the fruits used. Many of these winners are dry to off dry, with fine acidity to bring a little extra balance, and if you love the fruit, you might want to give these a try. Keep in mind that many are only available at farmer’s markets, the cellar door, or online. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS
Delidais Estate Winery 2021 Sweetheart Strawberry Alberta, Canada $20-22
RED ALES
2016
Thompson Valley, British Columbia $22-24 CSPC
2017
Joosed Moose Winery 2020 Saskatoon Oaked Dry Alberta, Canada $25
2019
Delidais Estate Winery 2021 Back Breaker Black Currant Alberta, Canada $20-22
Bee & Thistle 2019 Chiad Fhion Haskap Fruit Wine Saskatchewan, Canada
$22-24 CSPC 855924
BEST IN CLASS
Thought to have started hundreds of years ago in Europe, red ales are arguably more prominent elsewhere in the world today and certainly in a much different expression than their inception. The modern red ale has a little bit of everything; medium bitterness, ABV, body, and fruity flavours you may recognize from pale ales. The colour is a nice in-between of light and dark with an obvious hue and you will still be able to read a newspaper Balzac Brewing headline through your pint glass. Range Road Red That reddish hue comes from Alberta, Canada roasted malts that add so many of $17-19 the sweeter flavours of toffee and (4-pack cans) butterscotch. Keegan Sawatzky CSPC 833360 44 Culinaire | October 2021
Alberta, Canada $21-22 CSPC 792628
MONTE CREEK WINERY BLUEBERRY
2018
2021
Field Stone Raspberry Fruit Wine
PISTON BROKE BREWING X-THREAD RED ALE Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 825566
JUDGES SELECTION Omen Red Harbour Irish Red Ale
Alberta, Canada $15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 844837
Half Hitch Fire n’ Fury Red Ale
Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 784054
2018
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Across the board, the sauvignon blanc category delivered juicy acidity and fresh citrus characteristics. It was fantastic to see submissions from such a diverse geography, which subsequently also delivered variations on style across this flight. Riper examples were forward with stone fruit and subtle herbal characteristics while cooler climates were lifted and fresh offering plenty of grassy, green pepper notes. There’s certainly a sauvignon blanc to suit every palate within these offerings – a very nice showing for the category. Jenny Book
BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
RIMAPERRE 2019 SAUVIGNON BLANC BY BENJAMIN ROTHSCHILD
CASAS DEL BOSQUE 2020 SAUVIGNON BLANC
Marlborough New Zealand
Casablanca Valley Chile
$35-38 CSPC 761002
2021
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
$17-20 C SPC 846163
Sattlerhof 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark, Austria $26-28 CSPC 785297
LUI 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley, Argentina
$27-29 CSPC 855279
Misty Cove 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $19-22 CSPC 798235
Cono Sur 2020 Organic Sauvignon Blanc Colchagua Valley, Chile $15-18 CSPC 739009
BROWN AND BLACK ALES
BEST IN CLASS
In the tradition of beers from England, these styles are derived from the caskconditioned beers that are still common today in the United Kingdom. Lighter in body than a stout or porter, predominantly malt-driven, with some potential fruit notes from the yeast strains. Caramel flavours with nuttiness, toffee and chocolate abound. They also tend to have alcohol content in the range where you can drink a few in a row, which is how I like them. Bill Bonar
JUDGES SELECTION
Common Crown Andy’s Wee Heavy Scottish Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 789831
Common Crown Coppersmith Brown Ale Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830495
TROUBLED MONK OPEN ROAD Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 779880
Village Blacksmith Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 780554 2020
October 2021 | Culinaire 45
2021
PINOT NOIR
D’Angelo Estate 2017 Riserva Pinot Noir Naramata Bench, British Columbia
Pinot noir at its best and most compelling, can be light in colour and weight, yet startlingly deep-flavoured with layered, complex red fruit flavours and reverberating acidity. Pinot from Chile, the Okanagan, New Zealand, Oregon and South Africa rival Burgundies for value and flavour. This competition saw wines from the Okanagan Valley, Similkameen and Naramata vie for top spot with wines from Aconcagua, Santa Barbara, Monterey and Willamette represented. Mary Bailey
$24-28 CSPC 756648
Cambria 2018 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Santa Barbara, California
BEST IN CLASS
UNDURRAGA 2019 “SIBARIS” PINOT NOIR Leyda Valley, Chile
$17-21 CSPC 761205
2020
TOP VALUE
JUDGES SELECTION
$40-45 CSPC 372508
Peak Cellars 2019 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $30-34 CSPC 838304
Argyle 2019 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon $29-33 CSPC 720436
La Crema 2018 Monterey Pinot Noir Monterey, California
WINE BY JOE NV JOE TO GO PINOT NOIR
$31-35 CSPC 737431
2017
2019
Willamette Valley, Oregon
$11-14 (375mL) CSPC 816139
Mt. Boucherie Pinot Noir Similkameen Valley, British Columbia $26-29 CSPC 807653
2021
DOUBLE INDIA PALE ALES VINE JUDGESDINE
This is where you will find the IPA for those nights where you just want one beer and are not planning on accomplishing much in the late evening - we call upon the double IPA. Just like the other IPAs… only waaay bigger. Dave Gingrich 46 Culinaire | October 2021
SELECTION Canmore Brewing 4th Birthday Double IPA Alberta, Canada $17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 845125
2020
BEST IN CLASS BANDED PEAK BREWING CLASS 5 DOUBLE IPA Alberta, Canada $18-20 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 853229
SINGLE MALT WHISKY
There was a time when we wouldn’t expect to see entries from anywhere other than Scotland in the Single Malt Whisky category, and it speaks volumes of the enormous and exciting variety of all alcoholic beverages available in our province that this year we have winners from five different countries. Our two Best in Class winners couldn’t be from more different environments – from the remote, cold, wet and windy, Hebridean Isle of Mull, off the coast of Scotland, to an urban distillery in the sunny, dry and hot climate of Tel Aviv, Israel! Linda Garson
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) TOBERMORY 12 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT WHISKY Scotland
$75-80 CSPC 814945
BRAD ROYALE
Sommelier, Dip Wset, Beverage and Event Consulting.
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
Millstone Single Malt The Ileach Islay Single Malt Whisky PX Peated Whisky Scotland Netherlands $80-85 CSPC 795964
$50-60 CSPC 703776
2018
Spirit of Hven Tycho’s Star Single Malt Whisky Sweden $92-100 (500mL) CSPC 790286
As a beverage and event sommelier in Western Canada, Brad works with The Forks in Winnipeg, Hotel Grand Pacific in Victoria, 1st Street Market and Major Tom in Calgary. He also owns Kitten Swish, a tiny wine negociant that is about to release a gnarly Chardonnay piquette. BradRoyale.com
Benromach 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky United Kingdom
$75-80 CSPC 837223
ERIN LOADER
General Manager/Buyer - Bricks Wine Co., Social Media Manager Top Drop
M&H CLASSIC SINGLE MALT WHISKY Israel
$85-90 CSPC 832018
Cotswolds Peated Cask Single Malt Whisky United Kingdom $120-130 CSPC 845906
GlenAllachie 12 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Scotland
Erin discovered her love of wine while working in the hospitality industry; from cellar rat to General Manager, she’s worked nearly every front-of-house position and even had a stint as a wine rep, before ultimately realizing her true passion is wine retail. Constantly learning, she has completed the ISG and WSET courses. Erin has a deep appreciation that while the study of oenology is complex, enjoying a glass of wine is completely effortless!
$85-90 CSPC 805309 October 2021 | Culinaire 47
BOTTLED COCKTAILS READY TO SERVE
2021
This is a brand new category we devoted a little more attention to this year. Many producers are making cocktails, and most are firmly nestled in the ready to drink category (think coolers), but the likelihood of the bottled cocktails here being enjoyed straight out of the bottle is pretty slim. These are pre-made and ready to serve in a glass, with or without ice, and almost certainly with a garnish. They are clearly intended for a consumer that enjoys a finely crafted cocktail, but might not want to keep all the ingredients on hand. It’s a category I want to see more of. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
ON THE ROCKS - EFFEN COSMOPOLITAN United States
$50-53 CSPC 858837
Alberta, Canada
$23-25 CSPC 831899
Signature Cocktail of Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel - Wildflower Alberta, Canada
Cocktail Concierge Cacao Boulevardier Alberta, Canada
COCKTAIL CONCIERGE CHAI NEGRONI $50-53 CSPC 858838
$38-40 (375mL) CSPC 844301
$21 (120mL)
$21 (120mL) 2017
SODAS AND
NON-ALCOHOLIC MIXERS
2021
Just like the sizzle makes the steak, a good mixer is key to making a great mixed drink. Our best tonic waters are featured elsewhere in this issue, but the mixers and sodas below might show off your collection of craft spirits, or provide a locally made option for your soft drink needs. Tom Firth
$4 CSPC 820876 2018
2019
48 Culinaire | October 2021
Barker and Quin Raspberry Mixer South Africa $28-32 $3-4 (4-pack) CSPC 900970
2018
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) MEUWLY’S LEMON CORDIAL Canada
$14-15 (450mL)
FEVER-TREE SPARKLING PINK GRAPEFRUIT
JUDGES SELECTION
Annex Soda Root Beer Alberta, Canada
Signature Cocktail of Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Emerald Glow Alberta, Canada
Park Distillery Barrel Aged Negroni Alberta, Canada
Canada
$8-9 (4-PACK BOTTLES)
Annex Soda Saskatoon Lemonade Alberta, Canada $4 CSPC 831819
Grizzly Paw Root Beer Alberta, Canada $13-14 (6-pack cans) CSPC 837940
2021
CHARDONNAY
Chardonnay is a chameleon, the wines reflecting not just the inherent characteristics of the grape and the terroir but also shaped stylistically by the winemaker. Are they after a crisp, vibrant wine like Chablis? Or is a heavier-bodied, oak-influenced, richer wine the goal? Lucky for us all styles were represented this year. While Canadian and the US wines dominated the entries, it was a racy Italian chard which took the top spot—just like their Olympic sprinters. Mary Bailey
Gray Monk 2020 Unwooded Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25-28 CSPC 501114
JUDGES SELECTION
Sandhill 2019 Terroir Driven Wine Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
BEST IN CLASS
ZORZETTIG 2018 CHARDONNAY Fruili, Italy
$22-24 CSPC 823599
$25-27 CSPC 541193
Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay Sonoma, California $26-29 CSPC 369686
Maison Champy 2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy, France $33-36 CSPC 717042
Oak Ranch NV Chardonnay Canada $35 (4L) CSPC 797356
Black Hills 2019 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Trentadue 2019 La Storia Alexander Valley, California $35-38 CSPC 779650
2020
$31-35 CSPC 780403
MEANT TO BE DISCOVERED
91
“This powerful, rich wine is succulently packed with black fruits. With its balance already assured between its spicy edge and silky tannins, it is ready to drink now.” July 2021
POINTS
silkandspice.com
@silkandspicewine
Scan here to find a retailer near you or visit liquorconnect.com
2021
ITALIAN WINES
Italy is home to a wide range of native or indigenous grapes with which they create some of the best-known wines in the world, but they are almost as comfortable with a great number of international varieties. On these pages, we have sangiovese based blends and Italian red blends. Sangiovese is often the core of the Italian wine experience and best known in Chianti for most drinkers, while our Italian Red Blends is all about the other red grapes, with a near-Bordeaux style blend as our best in class, and some delicious valpolicella which are well-loved by many. Tom Firth
CHIANTI AND SANGIOVESEBASED BLENDS Although offering a wide range of styles and classifications, Chianti and sangiovese based blends are almost always total crowd pleasers. They strike the perfect balance between rustic, earthy and sometimes savoury flavours, and fruit forward flavours like cherries, plums and figs. They’re also incredibly food friendly; whether you’re spending the day in kitchen putting together an elaborate feast or simply ordering a pizza from your favourite spot – Sangiovese will most definitely have a place at the table. Erin Loader
$27-30 CSPC 296129
Tuscany, Italy
$31-34 CSPC 833538
TOP VALUE
TOMMASI 2017 POGGIO AL TUFO ROMPICOLLO
Tenuta Montecchiesi 2018 Preziosaterra Tuscany, Italy $26-29 CSPC 756312
Now we’re able to safely run our pairing dinners again, many evenings are selling out with waiting lists, so don’t delay in reserving your places.
Autumn in Italy: A Special One-Off, Premium Pairing Dinner at Franca’s Thursday October 28 We completely filled the restaurant twice in July for our six-course Vine & Dine pairing dinner, and now we’re coming back for a special Fine & Dine 4-course pairing dinner with a sparkling reception!
Vine & Dine at Yakima Saturday October 16, Friday October 22, and Saturday October 30 We’re back at Yakima for three delicious pairing evenings in October. One of our favourite chefs has now taken over the helm in the kitchen, and we’re excited for his new pairing menu!
A Special One-Off, Surf-Turf Premium Pairing Dinner at Big Fish Open Range Thursday November 4 A fabulous one-off Fine & Dine evening celebrating dishes from both land and sea, starting with a sparkling reception and canapes, followed by a multi-course premium pairing dinner.
50 Culinaire | October 2021
FATTORIA SAN MICHELE A TORRE 2018 CHIANTI CLASSICO
Tuscany, Italy $20-24 CSPC 721783
JUDGES SELECTION
Rocca delle Macie 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany, Italy
BEST IN CLASS
We try to cater for all allergies, so please let us know your dietary restrictions and we’ll be happy to arrange an alternative dish. Restaurants and menus are added regularly, so check out culinairemagazine.ca/events for details. Contact Linda Garson, linda@cuiairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802 to book for upcoming evenings, and to request to join the list of people who hear about these very popular events before the rest of the city!
ITALIAN RED WINE BLENDS By making a blended wine, the winemaker is seeking to produce a wine that has a balance of flavour through either a softening or strengthening of wine components, such as acidity. A wine that has a high acidity can be balanced by adding a wine that has a lower acidity level, making the end wine more palatable and flavourful. Some of my favourite blends are from the Valpolicella region of NE Italy, where corvina, corvinone, rondinella and molinara grapes are blended to make young Valpolicella red wines, Ripasso, or Amarone wines. Andrew Paulsen
JUDGES SELECTION
Masi Costasera 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Veneto, Italy $52-55 CSPC 317057
Novaia 2019 Valpolicella Classico Veneto, Italy $22-25 CSPC 797820
BEST IN CLASS COLLAZZI 2018 LIBERTA Tuscany, Italy
$20-23 CSPC 738703
2021
RED SINGLE VARIETIES
This is a category for wine drinkers that are adventurous, and looking to try some less well-known varietals. A wonderful assortment of red wines that are 100 percent of one varietal (or permitted to use a single grape on the label), and that do not have full categories of their own. Because of this, it is always a super rewarding category to judge, with a wide array of styles! From light and pretty gamay, to hybrids like foch, deliciously silky barbera, and a collection of lesser-known grapes from around the world. Nathalie Gosselin
Rust 2019 Gamay
JUDGES SELECTION
Similkameen Valley, British Columbia $29-32 CSPC 805043
BEST IN CLASS LA GIRONDA 2017 LA GENA BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE
Duca di Saragnano 2019 Nero Di Troia Barbanera Puglia, Italy $21-24 CSPC 836921
Monte Creek Winery 2019 Foch Thompson Valley, British Columbia $20-22 CSPC 785866
Zorzettig 2017 Refosco Dal Penduncolo Rosso Fruili, Italy
Piedmont, Italy $30-33 CSPC 812031
2021
2020
$26-28 CSPC 807826
NON-ALCOHOLIC
BEST IN CLASS
WINES, COOLERS & MOCKTAILS
Honestly, this year, we weren’t expecting to have a category like this, but as the year progressed, there have been so many quality-driven, balanced and rather tasty non-alcoholic beverages hitting our shelves, it made a lot of sense. These beverages manage to do it with style, as our judges were still assessing the strengths of these wines, mocktails and such but missing that little something that often brings the balance to the liquid- alcohol. So, whatever your reason for abstaining, these might be worth a look. Tom Firth
CONFLUENCE NON-ALCOHOLIC GIN & TONIC Canada
$12 CSPC 849240
JUDGES SELECTION Clever Mocktails Mojito Canada
$2-5 CSPC 842736
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Clever Mocktails G & Tonic Rosé Canada $3-5 CSPC 847607
Oddbird NV Blanc de Blancs Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Wine France $21-23 CSPC 847629
Noughty NV Rosé Spain
$21-23 CSPC 848626
2021
KOLSCH AND SESSION
This hybrid beer originated in Cologne, Germany, and is essentially an ale brewed at lager (cooler) temperatures. Its light straw colour, crisp taste and clean finish make a perfect thirst quencher. Many craft brewery versions stay close to the German style, but the category allows a bit of breadth that lets in those that are closer to standard light lagers. Either version passes if it has a bit of hop spiciness. Session beers are lighter bodied ales and lagers which tend to have alcohol contents around or below 4 percent ABV to allow for “session” drinking. Dave Nuttall
JUDGES SELECTION
ESTABLISHMENT BREWING MY BEST FRIEND’S GIRL Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 818449 2018 2019
Wayne Gretzky No.99 Session Ale British Columbia, Canada
2020
Best of Kin Dad Beer Alberta, Canada $14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 841476
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 844578
2021
BEST IN CLASS
INDIA PALE ALES
BRUCE SOLEY
Wine Director/Sommelier River Cafe, Beverage Judge. Bruce has been with River Cafe since the beginning of the millennium, first employed as Bartender/Supervisor and for the last ten years as Wine Director/ Sommelier. Bruce has spent his 30 years in the hospitality business learning the trade and trends in kitchens, bars, cellars and dining rooms all over Calgary. When not working, he can be found hiking, cooking, traveling, exploring wine regions, or on a golf course….
BEST IN CLASS
The category that always used to make people do the “bitter beer face” reaction, is truly a softer choice as India Pale Ales (IPA) with tropical character took over the grapefruit and pine resin of yore. The lineup in front of us this year at the ABAs was a bit confusing as the range of colour was so different from beer to beer, some tropical and smooth, yet others light malt and huge bittering hops. Phillips Space Goat Juicy IPA took the category on its smooth delivery closely followed by High 5 IPA from Trolley 5. Dave Gingrich
PHILLIPS SPACE GOAT British Columbia Canada
$15-17 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 814765
JUDGES SELECTION Trolley 5 High Five IPA Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 820256
Piston Broke Brewing Smoke Stack Black IPA Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 825561
Common Crown Journeyman IPA Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830492
Good Mood Brewery Session IPA Alberta, Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 818036
Marda Loop Marda Station IPA Alberta, Canada $18-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 827788
Hard Knox Dusty Trail IPA Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 803933
2020
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2021
WHEATS/WITS
Wheat beers must have a substantial proportion of the grain brewed with wheat, as opposed to the standard malted barley. Wheat gives beautiful bready flavours and fruity esters – you aren’t crazy, you do smell bananas and cloves! Many wheat beers are brewed with spices like coriander and citrus to subtly complement these flavours. Keegan Sawatzky
BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION Fahr Hefe Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 823885
COMMON CROWN HEF OFF! HEFEWEIZEN
Omen Knight Rye-der Roggenbier Alberta, Canada
Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans)
$16-18 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 833501
2020
Delta Highflier Hefeweizen Alberta, Canada
Good Mood Brewery Hefeweizen Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 849392
Grizzly Paw Grassi Lakes Hefeweizen Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 820809
$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 816039 2017
2021
BOURBON
All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. Whiskies are made from fermented grain, but what sets bourbon apart is that at least 51 percent of that grain must be corn, and it has to be aged in new, charred oak barrels. Bourbon also has to be at least 40 percent ABV at bottling. A common misconception is that bourbon has to come from Kentucky, and while a large percentage of it does, we saw offerings from New York State, Indiana and Texas this year! Erin Loader
BEST IN CLASS STILL AUSTIN United States $85-90 CSPC 842439
JUDGES SELECTION
Redemption Bourbon United States $52-55 CSPC 801781
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Makers Mark Handmade Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky United States $46-50 CSPC 103747
William Wolf Pecan Bourbon United States $46-50 CSPC 821622 2020
2018
2021
ZINFANDEL
Zinfandel is perhaps California’s greatest grape; it certainly provides many of the Golden State’s oldest vines, with some zinfandel vines planted in the late 1800s still producing fruit today. Of course, zinfandel is grown all over the world, and it was found to have the same DNA makeup as Italy’s primitivo and Croatia’s “Crljenak Kastelanski”. The flavours of zinfandel really depend on ripeness — ranging from red fruit to almost raisin-like richness as you add more sun. There is often a bit of spice in the glass as well. Most of these tended toward a riper style. Darren Oleksyn
JUDGES SELECTION
McPrice Myers 2019 “Pound for Pound” Zinfandel Paso Robles, California $35-38 CSPC 852420
Michael David 2018 Lodi Zinfandel Lodi, California
BEST IN CLASS
SEGHESIO 2019 SONOMA ZINFANDEL Sonoma, California $30-33 CSPC 710681
$24-27 CSPC 853605
Klinker Brick 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi, California
CAM PINKNEY
Cam has been in hospitality, restaurant management, and retail for over 20 years. He has established and revamped multi-million-dollar food and beverage programs to become profitable and award winning. Cam devotes his efforts to operating Oliver & Bonacini restaurants in Calgary and buying wine for all eight Alberta locations. He is passionate about volunteering his time to SafeHaven Foundation and Alberta Children’s Hospital Foundation through Raising Spirits YYC. pinkneycollective.ca
$29-32 CSPC 742845
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SPANISH REDS 2021
JUDGES SELECTION
TEMPRANILLO & MONASTRELL
Few countries offer the value to price ratio as finely as the Spanish. Tempranillo in all forms offers a wide variety of aromatics and structure that make it one of the most versatile red grapes on the market. Monastrell (mourvèdre in France), especially from the high plateau, limestone laden area of Jumilla, provides enormous drinking pleasure at astonishingly brilliant prices. Natalie Bonhomme does a superb job with her monastrell-focused 2019 Bonhomme Tinto sourced from Jumilla. As a bonus, Natalie does visit Alberta from time to time… so you may catch her out and about. Brad Royale
BEST IN CLASS LES VINS BONHOMME 2019 EL PETIT BONHOMME TINTO Jumilla, Spain
$16-18 CSPC 169383
2021
TOP VALUE CASTILLO DE ALMANSA 2017 RESERVA PIQUERAS Almansa, Spain
$14-16 CSPC 270363
WEST COAST INDIA PALE ALES
A long time ago, maybe ten years or so, there were only India Pale Ales (IPA), without any regional distinctions. You could order an IPA and know you were going to get something more amber than a normal beer, with more body, a higher alcohol content, and a lot more bitterness. Pine tree notes accosted your nose before you even got close. This was beer for serious beer drinkers. With the rise of New England IPAs, this style has been renamed West Coast, and faded away a bit, and sometimes I find myself missing the bitter old days. Bill Bonar
JUDGES SELECTION The Dandy Brewing Company T2G-IPA Alberta, Canada $18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 807112
Banded Peak Brewing Southern Aspect West Coast IPA Alberta, Canada $18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 842026
2017
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2019
2020
Garcia Carrion 2015 Antano Reserva Rioja, Spain $18-20 CSPC 847618
Bodegas Luzon 2019 Las Hermanas Monastrell Jumilla, Spain $16-18 CSPC 459438
Beronia 2016 Rioja Reserva Rioja, Spain $22-24 CSPC 731708
2020
BEST IN CLASS BANDED PEAK BREWING MOUNT COLUMBIA WEST COAST IPA Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 844568
Hop Valley Bubble Stash IPA Ontario, Canada
$18-20 (6-pack cans) CSPC 848118
2021
LAGERS
It’s a very exciting time to be a lager drinker. The reason it’s so exciting, is how crisp, clean, and perfect to their style these beers are becoming. Always been said, with IPAs you can hide behind the malt and hops, with a lager it’s all bare bones. From earthy, full flavoured, and refreshing, to crisp and clean. The number of lagers this year was more overwhelming than we thought, and the winners were great examples of the quality in Alberta. Dave Gingrich
BEST IN CLASS CANADIAN BEAVER BREWING DB PREMIUM LAGER Alberta, Canada
$12-14 (8-PACK CANS) CSPC 891638
JUDGES SELECTION Trolley 5 Turntable Lager Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 837263
Canadian Beaver Brewing Billy’s Light Lager Alberta, Canada $13-15 (8-pack cans) CSPC 846987
OT Brewing Lockout Black Lager Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 843291
Township 24 Meridian Black Lager Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 815759
Grizzly Paw Lawn Chair Lager Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 853463
MARGAUX BURGESS
With over 20 years in the wine biz in just about every aspect of the industry, from hotels to government relations and with a particular focus in Spanish and Australian wine, Margaux looks forward to the homegrown Alberta Beverage Awards every year. There is no better way to keep a wine professional honest than a few days of blind tasting! Even better is judging with a room full of the province’s best tasters and discussing many of the great wines available here in Alberta.
Village Logger Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (6-pack cans) CSPC 821392
Blind Enthusiasm Union Bhoys Lager, Alberta, Canada $17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 844285
Hawk Tail Cerveza Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 828600
DAVE NUTTALL
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He achieved his Beer Judge Certification in 2012, and is the head judge for Calgary International Beerfest, as well as judging the Alberta Beverage Awards and Alberta Beer Awards. He has appeared on radio, television, and in the movie Aleberta: Our Beer History. David is also a freelance writer, speaker, and has run Brew Ed beer courses since 2014. @abfbrewed.
2019
October 2021 | Culinaire 57
FLAVOURED GIN
BARREL AGED GIN & GENEVER
2021
In recent years, gin-based classic cocktails have had a resurgence: The Gimlet, French 75, Fizz, Tom Collins, or even a simple G&T. Their reappearance on cocktail menus or requests from patrons have inspired distilleries all around Alberta and Canada not to simply stick to the classic gin botanicals, but to add an extra element to the palate - rhubarb, strawberries, hibiscus, barrel-ageing, to name a few. The popularity of these gins is offering the professional or home bartender creative license to put a spin on a classic or easily create something totally new. Dean Norris
BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
WILD LIFE DISTILLERY RUNDLE BAR GIN
ZUIDAM 3 YEAR OUDE GENEVER Netherlands
Alberta, Canada
$75-80 CSPC 795966
$59-62 CSPC 836497 2020
2019
JUDGES SELECTION
Whispering Dutchman Lemon Lavender Gin Alberta, Canada
Zuidam 1 Year Old Rogge Genever Netherlands
$45-50
$68-72 CSPC 805410
Copperworks Barrel Aged Gin United States
Wild Life Distillery Barrel-aged Gin Alberta, Canada
$80-85 CSPC 820898 2019
58 Culinaire | October 2021
$60-65 CSPC 812647 2018
2019
District Distillery Strawberry Rhubarb Gin Alberta, Canada
$45-50 CSPC 854910
Burwood Distillery Triple Berry Gin Alberta, Canada
$50-55 CSPC 849561
Collective Arts Rhubarb & Hibiscus Gin Alberta, Canada
Victoria Distillers Empress 1908 Gin British Columbia, Canada
$50-55 CSPC 816851
$50-54 CSPC 793071
Fermentorium Stump Gin British Columbia Canada
Whitley Neill Rhubarb & Ginger Gin United Kingdom
$37-42 CSPC 795443
$46-50 CSPC 802957
gruber-roeschitz.at 2021
FRUIT BEER
If the number of submissions this year is any indication, the popularity of fruit beer is definitely on the rise. The key to a good fruit beer is to find balance between the fruit and the beer. This year we tasted a wide range of fruit flavours from the traditional cherry and citrus to bold tropical fruits (pineapple and mango). Next time you are at a pub, order a fruit beer. It is a great match with fish and chips or a burger and fries! Laurie MacKay
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) TROLLEY 5 YACHT ROCK RADLER Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 832207 2020
BOW RIVER BREWING CHERRY-RAZ WIT
Home of
Grüner Veltliner
Alberta, Canada
$16-17 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 832763 2020
JUDGES SELECTION Piston Broke Brewing Raspbiscus Fruit Blonde Ale Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans)
Waterloo Pineapple Radler Ontario, Canada $3-4 (473mL can) CSPC 831212
The Dandy Brewing Company Bunbury Pineapple Wheat Ale Alberta, Canada $18-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 836463
Babe Tangerine Dream Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 846081
Nor ther n rök Sorcerer Raspberry Ale Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 853319
High River Blood in the Water Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 837263
Austria
Imported by: Salivate Wine Consulting salivatewines.com
2021
JUDGES SELECTION
PROSECCO
Prosecco submissions this year included both white and rosé examples. The typical flavours of peach and blossom were plentiful, with some offering subtle herbal, tree fruit, and more precise floral complexities. Each example was lively and fresh, as we would expect in this category, but the best stood out for their balanced sweetness, creamy bubbles and delicate aromas. There are some great value offerings within this category, and lots of joy to be had across the spectrum. Jenny Book
BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
LA GIOIOSA PROSECCO Treviso, Italy
$17-20 CSPC 812819
Anno Domini Prosecco Bio Veneto, Italy $28-31 CSPC 823125
LUNA ARGENTA PROSECCO
$18-22 CSPC 770999
Veneto, Italy
$11-14 CSPC 733428 2020
2021
Fiol Prosecco Italy
Brilla Prosecco Rosé Veneto, Italy
$20-23 CSPC 838906
BEST IN CLASS
SOURS
Napoleon called Berliner Weisse, a German sour, “The Champagne of the North”, and it’s pretty hard to argue with Napoleon. Sours can be like drinking a very tart lemonade, or a funky white wine. Substituting acidity for bitterness they range from heavily fruited, sharp, and refreshing, to complex beasts from strange European barrel houses where they refuse to clean the cobwebs lest they disturb the yeasts that live there imparting their magic. If you’re a white wine drinker, try one of these and you’ll be organizing tours to local breweries in no time. Bill Bonar
CANMORE BREWING PIT STOP PHUZZY PEACH SOUR Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 856191
JUDGES SELECTION Trial & Ale Separated to a Degree Alberta, Canada $18-20 (750mL) CSPC 854085
2020
60 Culinaire | October 2021
Phillips Dinosour Blackberry British Columbia Canada
$15-17 (4-pack cans) CSPC 817080 2020
Trial & Ale Brunch. Alberta, Canada $18-20 (750mL) CSPC
Campio Albertosourus Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 846078
2021
RIESLING
Riesling can be the most exquisite of all white varietals; famously known for being sweet along the Mosel and Rhine rivers of Germany, while equally famous for being dry and lush in the Alsace region of France. Our riesling entries showed the wonderful characteristics of both regions, but are mostly produced by our neighbours in the Okanagan Valley. These well-crafted wines are multi-dimensional, balanced with bright acidity, minerality and lush fruit, whether sweet, off dry, or dry. Dean Norris
BEST IN CLASS
Upper Bench 2020 Riesling Naramata Bench British Columbia
2019
$29-32 CSPC 598805
DARREN OLEKSYN Moraine 2019 Riesling Naramata Bench British Columbia
2020
$22-24 CSPC 782571
SYNCHROMESH 2019 RIESLING Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Chateau Ste Michelle 2019 Columbia Valley Riesling Columbia Valley, United States
$29-32 CSPC 774930
2021
JUDGES SELECTION
Darren Oleksyn has been writing about wine and spirits for a decade, including a monthly column in the Calgary Herald for the past eight years. A holder of an advanced certificate from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, he has toured wine regions in Canada, the United States, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, and Germany.
$16-19 CSPC 232512
SPICED RUM
Rum may be clear, amber, or dark, depending on the style being produced. Another style that has increased in popularity over recent years is the spiced rum category. Spiced rums obtain their flavour profile from the addition of caramel, and a collection of spices such as cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, rosemary, pepper and vanilla. They can be enjoyed neat or as a great addition to cocktails, the key to a good spiced rum is not having a singular flavour dominate. It’s easy to enjoy spiced rum with iced or hot coffee (hint hint). Andrew Paulsen
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS RUMSONS SPICED RUM United States $40-44 CSPC 803407
Dead Man’s Fingers Spiced Rum United Kingdom
$33-35 CSPC 836218
Romero Distilling Spiced Sugarcane Spirit Alberta Canada
$55-59 CSPC 830115
LAURIE MACKAY
Laurie MacKay is a sommelier and drinks columnist on CBC Radio One, a lifestyle contributor for Impact Magazine and founder of Soulvines Inc. She has recently teamed up with Expedia Cruises to curate and host Craft Beer & Wine River Cruises, and she’s always astounded at the wide range of products tasted over the course of 3 days at the Alberta Beverage Awards! soulvines.com
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2021
MERLOT
Merlot is a chameleon, able to grow in most wine regions of the world. Utilized in blends with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, adding a complementary round velvety texture. When made well, as a single varietal, it is often mistaken for cabernet sauvignon, though different in nature with subtle tannins, soft flavours, big fruit, and hints of cocoa and coffee. Do not overlook merlot when picking a wine to pair with braised meats, lamb, and even a rich tomato sauce. Dean Norris
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS TINHORN CREEK 2019 MERLOT Okanagan Valley British Columbia $28-30 CSPC 530725
Trentadue 2018 La Storia Merlot Alexander Valley, California $35-38 CSPC 753300
Mt. Boucherie 2018 Merlot Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $30-32 CSPC 805186
Upper Bench 2018 Merlot Naramata Bench, British Columbia $34-37 CSCP 782642
2021
Castoro de Oro 2018 Merlot Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
2018
$25-28 CSCP 778355
2018
Ronan by Clinet 2016 Ronan Bordeaux, France $24-26 CSPC 768783
LIQUEURS
COFFEE & HERBAL
It might just be me, but year over year, I find liqueurs get better and better. Sure, there are plenty of wellloved, decades (if not centuries old) expressions of interesting liqueurs from around the world – many of which might need a dusting at home, but it’s the new expressions that seem to have a timely character, seem to be easy to just enjoy for their own sake, and resonate in the cocktails you might enjoy at home. Tom Firth
JUDGES SELECTION
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2018
$25-27 CSPC 343111
2019
$35-36 CSPC 799962
2016
2015
Gray Monk 2018 Merlot Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
2019
Back 40 Distillery Farmers Blend Coffee Liqueur Alberta, Canada
2014
2019
2020
BEST IN CLASS
BACK 40 DISTILLERY LORETTA’S MOONSHINE RHUBARB LIQUEUR Alberta, Canada $35-40 CSPC 844816
Barreling Tide Javalley Liqueur Nova Scotia Canada $28-32 CSPC 846214
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October 2021 | Culinaire 63
2021
FLAVOURED VODKA
BEST IN CLASS
This is such an interesting category to see play out over the days of the competition. It isn’t a category I follow closely at home, and the breadth and range of expressions is honestly staggering – limited only by the producer’s imagination really. What the judges are looking for, is a balanced spirit with flavours that work well and taste right. The following just might need to be part of your liquor cabinet at home! Tom Firth
JUDGES SELECTION
Van Gogh Double Espresso Holland
$37-40 CSPC 725350
Birds & Bees BeHAYve Alfalfa Vodka Alberta, Canada $40-42 CSPC 828086
Birds & Bees Suck It Vodka Alberta, Canada $29-32 (1L) CSPC 843906
District Distillery Just Peachy Vodka Alberta, Canada $35-37 CSPC 846370
TAYNTON BAY SPIRITS RASPBERRY VODKA
Taynton Bay Spirits Blueberry Rooibos Canada $30-34 CSPC 819268
2020
2021
2020
RED SINGLE VARIETIES CABERNET FRANC AND PETIT SYRAH
While Red Single Varieties can sometimes be a bit of a catch-all section, we are always pleased when we can break out a few grapes into slightly more specific flights. One such this year was a flight of just cabernet franc (a grape having a bit of a renaissance in some parts of the world) and petit syrah (a grape that is always flying under the radar, but well loved). Our judges whittled them down and have for us some less common, but stand-up grapes worth a try. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS
Benegas Estates 2018 Cabernet Franc Mendoza, Argentina $29-33 CSPC 840154
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Canada
$48-50 CSPC 847919
Chateau Laulerie 2018 Juste Terre Cabernet Franc Bergerac, France $27-30 CSPC 792742
MIRO CELLARS 2018 PETITE SIRAH Alexander Valley California $40-45 CSPC 793479
2021
MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Montepulciano, the grape - not to be confused with the Tuscan wine region by the same name producing wines from sangiovese - is Italy’s second most planted grape. The most heralded expressions come from the Abruzzo region, east of Rome on the Adriatic coast. It’s no wonder all the wines submitted this year are from this renowned region. The standout this year was a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the small sub-region of Villamagna, with rich, deep, complex flavours and robust, but perfectly rounded tannins, with a dark cocoa finish. Peter Smolarz
JUDGES SELECTION DEAN NORRIS Pasetti 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Abruzzo, Italy $27-30 CSPC 800056
BEST IN CLASS TORRE ZAMBRA 2017 VILLAMAGNA Abruzzo, Italy $40-44 CSPC 824812
Torre Zambra 2017 Madia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Abruzzo, Italy $21-24 CSPC 820626
2020
Dean has been creating and overseeing the beverage programs for the Vintage Group for the past ten years. It has provided the opportunity to travel the beverage world, and develop a rich and deep comprehension of this world. Gatherings of professionals are the most rewarding for Dean, igniting the thoughtful, intelligent and creative pulse, that makes this experience so outstanding for him.
2021
AFTER DINNER
FORTIFIED AND DESSERT STYLE WINES
These types of wine are such wonderful treats, and at times, overlooked when it comes to food and wine pairing options; they can be enjoyed AS dessert for a nice, after dinner liquid treat. But also, try them with fatty foie gras (classic pairing!), dishes with fruit reductions, sweet sauces, or with a salad dressed with a sharp vinaigrette. These wines can be produced in a number of ways: halting the fermentation process early, late-harvesting the grapes, or sweetened through fortification with another distilled spirit (cognac or brandy). Portugal clearly won that flight this year! Nathalie Gosselin
BEST IN CLASS
KOPKE 10 YEAR OLD TAWNY Douro, Portugal $38-42 CSPC 775949
2017
JUDGES SELECTION
2018
Sandeman Fine Ruby Porto Douro, Portugal $17-19 CSPC 23366
Trentadue Chocolate Amore Alexander Valley, California
Spirit Hills Winery Pi Reserve Alberta, Canada
Field Stone Wild Black Cherry Dessert Wine Alberta, Canada
Shady Orchard and Winery 2020 Pear Alberta, Canada
$32-34 CSPC 781967
$21-23
2021
2016
$46 (375mL) CSPC 842125
$20 CSPC 801013
2017
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Ever wonder what perfumed notes of cardamom, clove, lychee, honey, orange marmalade, roses, and lavender have in common? Well, look no further, the common denominator is “Gewürztraminer”. We know, it is hard to pronounce (gehVURTZ-trah-mee-ner), but that is a small hurdle to discover the beauty of this varietal. Its origins are Germanic, although the Alsace region of France has made a great name for that grape all around the world. We also see a lot of producers from British Columbia work with this aromatic grape, which was clearly reflected in this year’s winning wines! Nathalie Gosselin
BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
Hillside 2020 Gewürztraminer Naramata Bench, British Columbia
Tinhorn Creek 2019 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
$22-24 505206
2017
2018
66 Culinaire | October 2021
2019
WILD GOOSE 2020 GEWÜRZTRAMINER Okanagan Valley British Columbia $23-25 CSPC 414748
$24-27 CSPC 530675 2020
2019
2018
2019
2020
2020
2021
RUM AND SUGARCANE SPIRITS
Daiquiris, Mai Tais, Piña Coladas – all delicious, but rum is ready to be enjoyed on its own. Made from the distillation of sugar cane, the finished rum can be light or dark with darker bottlings being aged longer in barrel. Generally, the more time it spends in wood, the more richness and complexity there is with many aromatic and flavour characteristics – think caramel, toffee, banana, citrus, mango, vanilla and coffee. Of course, they would all make a heck of a cocktail, but don’t be afraid to try aged rum on its own. Margaux BurgeSs
BEST IN CLASS
JUDGES SELECTION
El Dorado 12 Year Old Aged Rum Guyana
ROMERO DISTILLING DARK SUGARCANE SPIRIT
KEEGAN SAWATZKY
$35-40 CSPC 912402
2016
2018
2019
2020
Bleeding Heart Don Papa Small Batch Rum Original Philippines $51-55 CSPC 823006
From Oak & Vine in Inglewood, Keegan is in pursuit of occasional opulence, the perfect river beer, and more than willing to acquire gout for the right food and beverage experience. He’s loved all things libation since he can remember, and is not above shotgunning a white claw in a back alley while reminiscing over a trip to Bordeaux. Whether working a vintage in Australia, exploring ancient cellars in Spain, or enjoying a cold craft beer around Calgary, good drink has always taken him to good places.
El Dorado 21 Year Old Aged Rum Guyana $90-100 CSPC 730868 2019
Alberta, Canada
$55-60 CSPC 830116
KYLE MCRAE
Flying Dutchman Rum 3 Year Old Rum Netherlands $53-58 CSPC 783818
St Lucia Chairman’s Reserve Saint Lucia $43-46 CSPC 745130
Back 40 Distillery Shelter Bay Rum Alberta, Canada $39-45 CSPC 844816
Romero Distilling Amber Rum Alberta, Canada
Kyle is the Operations Manager and Spirits Buyer for Highlander Wine & Spirits and Bin 905. He has been in the retail wine industry for over 13 years, working his way up from sales associate to his current role. This is Kyle’s third year judging the ABA’s, and each year he learns more from his fellow judges. He feels that they really are a team of professionals and they make him strive to be better at his trade.
$75-80 CSPC 840670
October 2021 | Culinaire 67
MALBEC
Once again, Argentina dominates this much-loved category. While malbec is grown in a number of countries, it’s in the dry, higher altitude vineyards of Mendoza that it seems to reach the height of quality and expression of the grape. It’s a tough category for our judges to work through; the grape is intense, with plenty of fruit and tannin, and the barest changes in the terroir of the vineyard can make significant changes in how the wine turns out – be it spicy, fruity, mineral-laden, and even floral. If you appreciate the grape, I’m sure these will impress. Tom Firth
BEST IN CLASS TOP VALUE
1884 2019 LTD PRODUCTION MALBEC
UKO 2019 ESTATE MALBEC
Mendoza, Argentina
$33-35 CSPC 138453
Felino 2020 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $24-26 723907
JUDGES SELECTION
2021
Mendoza, Argentina 2017
$15-18 CSPC 824815
2020
Mi Terruno 2018 Expresion Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $20-24 CSPC 837090
1884 2019 Estate Grown Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $19-21 CSPC 770925
UKO 2017 Select Malbec Uco Valley, Argentina $20-23 CSPC 811330
2021
SPARKLING ROSÉ
All this interest in rosé wines has been pretty remarkable. It’s a category that has been well loved by sommeliers and enthusiasts, but only recently has some of that enthusiasm been picked up by wine drinkers everywhere. More and more, examples show off better balance in their sweetness, and many, if not most on our shelves are really quite dry. Throw into the mix some bubbles, and the reasons to open up a bottle of rosé are innumerable. Remember, a bottle of sparkling wine doesn’t need any special occasion. Tom Firth
JUDGES SELECTION
Anna De Codorniu Rosé Cava Spain $18-20 CSPC 760243
68 Culinaire | October 2021
UNDURRAGA ROSÉ ROYAL SPARKLING Leyda, Chile Cava Biutiful Brut Rosé Cava Catalonia, Spain
2019
BEST IN CLASS
$19-22 CSPC 799777
$22-25 CSPC 836096
2019
2018
2020
2021
PALE ALES
Pale ales often fall in that middle ground between the bitterness of IPAs, the subtlety of blondes and lighter lagers, and the maltiness of amber and darker ales. Usually yellow to golden in colour, they are known for their balance between malt and hop flavours. They are often clear, but in recent years we have noticed the trend to slightly hazy or cloudy appearances. There is also a wider use of hop varietals, making this category a more exciting home for different flavour profiles. Dave Nuttall
BEST IN CLASS
ANNEX FORWARD PROGRESS Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 807102
2018
2019
2020
JUDGES SELECTION Grizzly Paw Three Sisters Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 853463
Apex Predator Dead Woodsman Pale Ale Alberta, Canada
$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 854365
Canmore Brewing Ten Peaks Pale Ale Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 788568 2019
2021 ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS
$16-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 781866
artisan food market
2020
Buffalo 9 Brewing Fighting Season Pale Ale Alberta, Canada
J U DG E S S E L E C T I O N
High River Juicy Got SMaSHed Alberta, Canada $16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 854871
bringing Alberta to your plate
10706 124 st NW, Edmonton | meuwlys.com | 587.786.3560
are you in on the secret? Wild Rose Brewery High Harvest Alberta, Canada $15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 799731
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secretmeatclub.com
2021
GIN-BASED
BEST IN CLASS (TIE)
READY TO DRINK
GRIZZLY PAW GIN SQUEEZE
Let’s be brutally honest, there are a million ways to enjoy gin, and many of the best (or at least most refreshing) gin-based cocktails are pretty easy to make, enjoying a wonderfully small list of ingredients too. This year, we saw enough gin-based ready to drink products that we decided to break them off from other styles to highlight them a little. Whether you are hauling some gin bevvies out to the back country, or just want to grab and go to a gathering – we’ve got you covered. Tom Firth
JUDGES SELECTION Confluence Grapefruit Gin & Tonic
$13-15 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849227
Epitaph Gin & Soda Alberta, Canada
Alberta, Canada
$13-15 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 835237
COLLECTIVE ARTS RASPBERRY BITTER ORANGE GIN COCKTAIL
$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 844966
Alberta, Canada
$16-17 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 829928 2020
2021
WILD FERMENTS
SAISON AND FARMHOUSE ALES
Farmhouse ales originated in central Europe, notably in and around Belgium, and were often made for farm workers. Technically, it’s not a single beer style, but an array of different beers, brewed at different times of the year for different purposes. They range in colour from light to dark, and in alcohol content. Commonly they are unfiltered wheat ales with a hazy appearance, letting unique yeasts provide distinguishing characteristics. Saison yeasts often provide spicy notes, while wild yeasts can bring funky qualities. Dave Nuttall
TRIAL & ALE A SAISON APPARENT
JUDGES SELECTION
Trial & Ale Dissent Within the Caucus Alberta, Canada $18-20 (750mL) 70 Culinaire | October 2021
BEST IN CLASS
Alberta, Canada $18-20 (750ML) CSPC 840057
Annex Profane Communion Alberta, Canada $21-22 (750mL) CSPC 852842
XhAle They Weren’t Raging Against White Goods Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 852614
2021
HAZY AND NEIPA
Call it Hazy, Juicy, New England or something else, the NEIPA (New England IPA) came out of Vermont about a dozen years ago to become a craft brewing juggernaut. Looking like your favourite breakfast juice, the colours range from light yellow to orange, with a natural cloudy appearance. Less hop forward than regular IPAs, they often evoke juicy and tropical flavours with only a hint of bitterness, but may still sneak above 6% ABV. Dave Nuttall
BEST IN CLASS
JENNY BOOK
Wine educator, contract speaker, freelance writer and wine judge. With over 20 years’ experience in the industry Jenny has dabbled in many facets of the wine world. Currently her main gig is in wine education, sharing her passion and knowledge of wine with many local and international students. She runs WSET courses and exams with Fine Vintage across Canada and the USA, and teaches a broad array of international students through WSET Global.
LONG HOP BREWING AUSSIE IPA Alberta, Canada
$17-19 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 831882
JUDGES SELECTION Best of Kin Big Hat Hazy IPA Alberta, Canada
Marda Loop The Big Juice NEIPA Alberta, Canada
$14-16 (4-pack cans) CSPC 843233
$18-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849105
OT Brewing 5 Hundie Hazy IPA Alberta, Canada
$17-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 820771 2019
2020
Village Father NEIPA Alberta, Canada
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 853217
Annex Force Majeure NEIPA Alberta, Canada
$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 809204 2019
2020
Troubled Monk Juicy Gossip NEIPA Alberta, Canada $18-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 830066 2020
Banded Peak Brewing Tail Wave Hazy IPA Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 852347
Long Hop Brewing NEIPA with Galaxy Hops Alberta, Canada
PETER SMOLARZ
Peter is Willow Park Wines & Spirits’ Director of Fine Wines & Purchasing, and over his fifteen plus years there, he has become an expert in everything from wine to tequila to scotch, completing his ISG 1, WSET 1, 2 and 3, and attending Bordeaux Appellation Classes in France. In 2015 Peter represented Canada in the Chaine des Rotisseurs Young Sommelier Competition in Australia, and has travelled across the globe to further his understanding in the methodology of wine production.
$17-19 (4-pack cans) CSPC 846971
October 2021 | Culinaire 71
2021
SAKÉ AND SOJU
While these two categories share a page, they couldn’t be more different from one another. Saké is a familiar category and one that always excites us. Our judges taste them blind and it is always interesting for me to take a moment to see what they like and how they score the various entries (one of the perks of being the competition director). It’s a wonderful class of beverage that is woefully overlooked by many Albertans – hindered in some ways by a lack of English on the labels, and concern by some that they aren’t drinking them the “right” way. We also have a lovely yuzu citrus wine here that is as unique as it is tasty. Experiment and try something new! Tom Firth
HIRO BY AIZU HOMARE Japan
$39-43 CSPC 851908
SAKÉ JUDGES SELECTION Gekkeikan Black & Gold Sake Japan
Shin Premium Yuzu Wine Japan
$25-27 CSPC 791645
$30-35 CSPC 801668
2020
Soju - a neutral spirit from South Korea, Soju is typically distilled from rice, or cereal crops like wheat, and sometimes from starches, and often issued with an age statement. In many ways, they are similar to vodka, but with significant differences along the way.
SOJU JUDGES SELECTION
2021
SAKÉ BEST IN CLASS
GOSE
Hwayo 41 Premium Soju South Korea $90-95 CSPC 835328
JUDGES SELECTION
Gose beers are wheat ales originating in northern Germany pre-Reinheitsgebot (1516), and are distinguished by their saltiness due to the natural brackish water in brewing. Trolley 5 Oh Imported German versions move in and out of our market, Yeah! Strawberry but craft breweries have taken to the style. Because authentic Kiwi Gose versions might be too much for local palates, they tone down Alberta, Canada the saltiness and often add fruit or other ingredients to create $13-15 a tart, slightly sour tasting beer. Usually hazy, their colour is (4-PACK CANS) often dictated by the added ingredients. Dave Nuttall CSPC 847798 72 Culinaire | October 2021
Masumi Shiro Junmai Ginjo Japan $31-34 CSPC 835321
SOJU BEST IN CLASS HWAYO 25 PREMIUM SOJU South Korea
$65-70 CSPC 835330
BEST IN CLASS VILLAGE AFTERGLOW MIMOSA GOSE Alberta, Canada $13-15 (4-PACK CANS) CSPC 847798
2021
STOUTS AND PORTER
Historically, a working man’s beer hailing from Ireland or the United Kingdom, these were originally known as porter and stout porter with the difference being in strength, the two styles have become very closely intertwined. Ranging from very dark brown, with coffee and toast notes, to opaque black and thick with dominant coffee and dark chocolate notes, they’re perfect for rainy afternoon drinking in the corner of an old pub while you’re working on your impending novel. Bill Bonar
Celebrate simply! PUMPKIN PIE
INNIS & GUNN IRISH WHISKEY CASK
BEST IN CLASS
Alberta, Canada $4-5 (500ML) CSPC 823753
OPENI NG S OON PI E J UNKI E - CROW F OOT CROS SI NG IN TIME FOR THANKSGIVING
826 CROWFOOT CRESCENT NW | 403.241.3475
JUDGES SELECTION Banded Peak Brewing and Zero Issue Brewing Nuclear Winter Russian Imperial Stout Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 841955
KENSINGTON - 1081 2ND AVENUE NW | 403.287.8544 SPRUCE CLIFF / WILDWOOD - 8 SPRUCE CENTRE SW | 403.452.3960 MAHOGANY - 2171 MAHOGANY BLVD SE | 587.623.1144
Stronghold Brewing Interstellar Stout Alberta, Canada
@piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca
$16-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 846115
2020
Good Mood Brewery Porter Alberta, Canada $16-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 813154 2019
Omen Spilt Milk Stout Alberta, Canada $15-18 (4-pack cans) CSPC 839764
2020
Banded Peak Brewing Javalanche Oatmeal Coffee Milk Stout Breakfast Beer Alberta, Canada
$18-20 (4-pack cans) CSPC 841936
High River Muddy Tail Stout Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 825182
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2021
NONCARBONATED
BEST IN CLASS
READY TO DRINK/COOLERS
HAVSUM LAFFS BLUEBERRY POMEGRANATE VODKA WATER
We had so much diversity in our ready to drink and cooler entries that we were able to split out some of the non-carbonated entries into their own categories. Some people don’t enjoy the gassiness or fizzy character of carbonated drinks, and others just prefer to have a still, non-sparkling bevvy to beat the heat. Tom Firth
Alberta, Canada
$15-17 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 445893
JUDGES SELECTION
Rice Makgeolli - 100 Billion Prebio South Korea $12-14 CSPC 847738
2021
Havsum Laffs Strawberry Kiwi Vodka Water Alberta, Canada
Chum Churum Mango Soju South Korea
$11-13 (360mL) CSPC 838834
$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 445899
VODKA SODA READY TO DRINK
As the ready to drink category has taken off, we’ve seen many that encapsulate the need for “Ready to Drink” - refreshing beverages that are ready to go, whether to the beach, the cabin, post-adventure, or even just by the water’s edge, soaking your feet. We had so many great takes on the classic vodka soda (many without sweeteners or low-cal!), we decided to show them off in the same place. Tom Firth
JUDGES SELECTION Likuid Orange Shot Tangerine Canada $9-12 (4-pack cans) CSPC 849089
Hello Wolf Vodka Soda Grapefruit Alberta, Canada
$15-18 (6-pack cans) CSPC 854348 74 Culinaire | October 2021
Good Day Soju Pomegranate South Korea $11-13 (360mL) CSPC 843551
BEST IN CLASS HELLO WOLF VODKA SODA LIME Alberta, Canada
$15-18 (6-PACK CANS) CSPC 854346
Purpus Rosé Vodka Soda Canada
$15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 822877
Deca Vodka Seltzer Lime Flavour Canada $10-11 (6-pack cans) CSPC 833216
rök Ridgeline Raz Alberta, Canada $15-17 (6-pack cans) CSPC 853453
Undurraga Rose Royal Sparkling NV
El Petit Bonhomme Tinto 2019
Sibaris Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2019
Mezzaccorona Dolemiti Rose 2020
Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2017
BEST IN CLASS
BEST IN CLASS
BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
TOP VALUE
www.internationalcellars.com follow us! @internationalcellarsinc
2021
WHITE BLENDS
Castoro de Oro Estate Winery Heart of Gold Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
I love this category, particularly as I’m always pairing wine with food, and white blends are possibly the most food-friendly wines, complementing dishes from just about every cuisine. Eleven grapes are represented in our six winning wines this year, coming from vineyards as far apart north to south as Australia to Canada, and east to west as California to Spain. UMAMU, a Western Australian interpretation of a classic Bordeaux Blanc, took top spot – the same as blend as four-times Beverage Awardwinner, Clos du Soleil Capella, from BC. Linda Garson
$22-25 CSPC 285320
JUDGES SELECTION
BEST IN CLASS
TOP VALUE
UMAMU 2010 SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON
PYRÈNE 2020 CUVÉE MARINE
$29-32 CSPC 829498
$17-20 CSPC 815396
Margaret River, Australia
Côtes de Gascogne France
Pine Ridge 2020 Chenin Blanc Viognier Napa Valley, California
2020
$22-23 CSPC 746997
Mariluna 2020 Verdejo Macabeo Valencia, Spain $23-26 CSPC 847570
Clos du Soleil 2019 Capella Similkameen Valley British Columbia $28-30 CSPC 823334
2021
2019
2020 2019
2016
OLD FASHIONED/ MANHATTAN
Premixed cocktails have seen a massive increase in both availability and quality as the COVID-19 pandemic forced many popular cocktail bars and restaurants to temporarily close down. Fortunately, several local and international distilleries stepped up to allow us to imbibe in some of our favourites - without the need for a large liquor cabinet. Simply add your favourite cocktail to a shaker with ice, shake, serve and enjoy. Expect the flavour of the whisky to really shine through with a nice balance of sweetness. Kyle McRae
JUDGES SELECTION
Dashfire Manhattan United States
$7-8 (100mL) CSPC 849349 76 Culinaire | October 2021
BEST IN CLASS Cocktail Concierge Bobby Burns Alberta, Canada $50-53 CSPC 858870
The Fort Tumbler & Rocks Manhattan Alberta, Canada $7-8 (120mL) CSPC 846692
COCKTAIL CONCIERGE PORT OF MANHATTAN Alberta, Canada $50-53 CSPC 858871
2021
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
Exceptional tequila in a variety of styles from Blanco and Anejo to Reposado showcased true to form while we were narrowing down the best of the best. This reminded me that traveling again to Mexico can’t be that far away now. The entries in the tequila category showed true earthy, sweet, and fruit notes, with a smooth finish. Pro tip for finding a great tequila is to ensure the alcohol is in balance with the other parts of what you’re tasting. Sip on the rocks, elevate your Margarita, or make the best Paloma you’ve ever imagined. Cam Pinkney
BEST IN CLASS
VOTED 2021 BEST NEW CANADIAN WHISKY Gray Jay Deluxe Canadian Whisky is perfect for all occasions. Smooth and unpretentious, it lets you make your own rules. Buy a bottle today, and enjoy every sip, just as you like.
GRAND LOVE TEQUILA ANEJO Mexico $125-140 CSPC 849357
JUDGES SELECTION Hornitos Reposado Tequila Mexico $42-45 CSPC 143040
Siempre Reposado Tequila Mexico
$40-75 CSPC 840204
Rey Campero Tobala Mezcal Joven, Mexico $110-115 CSPC 848475
Siempre Plata Tequila Mexico $65-70 CSPC 785712
2017
2018
2020
YOUR WHISKY. YOUR RULES. *Best New Product for Canadian Whisky in a 2021 BrandSpark® survey. Please enjoy the adventure responsibly. © 2021 Fluid Assets Inc. All Rights Reserved.
October 2021 | Culinaire 77
2021
RED BLENDS
In any beverage competition the red blend category is usually one of the largest by number of entries, and certainly the most diverse in terms of aromatics and flavours. It’s tough competition with the likes of historic blending regions from France, Spain, Portugal, and Italy, all usually strutting their prowess for the mélange. This year, however, the crown sees a tie with two home grown entries taking the prize. The gore filled 2018 Dead End Game Over from Similkameen/ Okanagan fruit splatters alongside the more subdued 2018 Moraine Meritage. British Columbian red blends have never been stronger. Brad Royale
Mi Terruno 2014 Reserve Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina $28-30 CSPC 781111
2018
BEST IN CLASS (TIE) DEAD END 2018 “GAME OVER” British Columbia Canada
MORAINE 2018 MERITAGE
$20-24 CSPC 839101
Naramata Bench British Columbia $25-27 CSPC 807678
JUDGES SELECTION
$60 - $65 CSPC 843726
Xavier Vignon 2017 Cotes du Rhone Old Vines Rhone, France
TOP VALUE
BLUE MOOSE 2017 CABERNET SHIRAZ Swartland, South Africa $14-16 CSPC 800634
78 Culinaire | October 2021
Santos Da Casa 2016 Reserva Douro, Portugal $28-30 CSPC 784723
Monte Creek 2019 Hands Up Red Thompson Valley, British Columbia $19-22 CSPC 782540
Gray Monk 2019 Monk’s Blend Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $25-28 CSPC 836955
Parras Wines 2019 Castelo do Sulco Reserva Lisbon, Portugal $15-17 CSPC 734151
2020
2021
TONIC WATER
Tonic waters vary in their degree of carbonation, sweetness, and bitterness, as well as the botanicals which contribute to flavour. The best of the category displayed balanced bitterness, subtle sweetness, and a nice complexity with clean flavours. The refreshing, yet bitter, nature of these tonics will pair most seamlessly with gin however there’s a lot of potential for versatility here with other spirits as well as non-alcoholic cocktails. Jenny Book
TRADITIONAL TONIC WATER BEST IN CLASS
TOM FIRTH
BARKER AND QUIN FINEST INDIAN TONIC WATER
FENTIMANS CONNOISSEUR TONIC WATER United Kingdom
South Africa
$8-9 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 836138
$9-10 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 900962
JUDGES SELECTION Fentimans Traditional Tonic Water United Kingdom
$8-9 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 836143
Fever-Tree Premium Tonic Water United Kingdom
$6-9 (4-pack bottles)
FLAVOURED TONIC
While relatively ‘new’ to the market - tonic water was created in 1858 - flavoured tonics offer a broader range than the more traditional, citrus-driven original. From cucumber to elderflower, to full on fruit cocktails, these mixers really bring your classic G&T to life. Try this for an amazingly cool and delicious cocktail: fill a glass with ice, add two ounces of gin and top with Fever-Tree Refreshingly Light Cucumber Tonic Water. Garnish with a slice of cucumber, sprig of mint and enjoy! Kyle McRae
JUDGES SELECTION Fentimans Pink Grapefruit Tonic Water United Kingdom
$7-8 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 836151
Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards; Managing Editor, Culinaire Magazine; freelance beverage writer; judge and speaker, Tom has been sharing, educating, and talking about wine, beer and spirits for more than 25 years long enough to see a trend or two come and go. Having participated as a judge at over 30 competitions, domestically and internationally, plus management rolls in over 20 competitions, Tom knows his way around running a good, objective, blind competition.
Barker and Quin Light at Heart Tonic Water South Africa
$9-10 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 900963
BEST IN CLASS FEVER-TREE REFRESHINGLY LIGHT CUCUMBER TONIC WATER United Kingdom $6-9 (4-pack bottles)
Fentimans Valencian Orange Tonic Water United Kingdom
$7-8 (4-pack bottles)
Barker and Quin Hibiscus Tonic Water South Africa
$9-10 (4-pack bottles) CSPC 900964 2020
October 2021 | Culinaire 79
2021
VODKA
BEST IN CLASS
White spirits never go out of fashion and are always in demand, particularly with the enormous thirst for cocktails right now, both in bars and to make at home. As vodka is consistently one of the top-selling spirits in Canada, it’s no surprise that it’s a category where we see a lot of entries every year – the joy for our judges though is that they’re of increasingly high quality. Canadian grain vodkas are certainly very well represented, with winners from four different provinces, and one classic potato vodka from Poland joining the ranks. Linda Garson
Lone Pine Distilling Field Corn Vodka Alberta, Canada
Adequate Vodka Alberta, Canada
$47 CSPC 841588
$26-30 CSPC 844961
Krol Potato Vodka Poland
$27-30 CSPC 834644 80 Culinaire | October 2021
Broken Oak Likuid Vodka Alberta, Canada $18-21 CSPC 839260
Crabbie Goat Vodka Alberta, Canada $50-54 CSPC 849521
PARK DISTILLERY CLASSIC VODKA Alberta, Canada
$40-44 CSPC 778452
High Stick Vodka British Columbia Canada $36-40 CSPC 784813
Deuce Vodka Alberta, Canada $32-34 CSPC 841160
Whispering Dutchman Double Century Triple Distilled Vodka Alberta, Canada
Hounds Black Vodka Newfoundland Canada
$40-44 CSPC 816379
$55
Alpha Tango Mission Kosmos Vodka Quebec, Canada $38-40 CSPC 855530
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E N J OY !
October 2021 | Culinaire 81
E TC E TE R A . . . Micro YYC
We love the fresh and bright flavours of Micro YYC products from Vanessa Rosewood’s local urban farm. They provide microgreens to local markets, grocers, restaurants, and home delivery services across the province in compostable containers, and now they’ve launched the Microgreens Club - a new zero waste initiative delivering a variety of these nutritionally rich greens directly to your home in reusable containers, which are then collected, washed, and used again! See microyyc.com for details.
Portuguese Home Cooking
The Portuguese have home-style, comfort cooking down to both an art and a science with robust, flavourful, and often simply prepared dishes that wow the palate and warm the belly. Well sorted with sections for soups, seafood, poultry and meat, sausages, vegetables and grains, sauces, breads, and sweets, the whole gamut is covered from bacalhao (seven recipes!) to pastéis de Nata (p.208) with more than a few things in between. Interlink Books $45
Häagan Dazs Divine
You can imagine that we were rather excited when invited to trial Haagan Dazs’ new range of ice creams during the heat of our summer this year! Divine is a lighter version of their classic ice cream, with half the fat and 25 percent less sugar, and made with 100 percent Canadian dairy. We honestly wouldn’t have known they were any different from the flavour and texture of the three varieties: Raspberry Cheesecake, Chocolate Chunk Brownie, and Vanilla Caramel Pretzel. 475 mL $7-8 Miski Organics
Hands up if you’ve tried Sacha Inchi Butter – we thought not, but we have, and it’s a terrific allergen-free alternative to peanut butter. Made in Barrie, Ontario, Miski Organics’ butter is antioxidant, amino acid and protein-rich, with no additives, and is made from roasted sacha inchi seeds from founders and sisters, Mariella and Lía’s homeland of Peru, where they are committed to supporting local farming communities. Try it - it’s a new favourite for us! 330g $20, miskiorganics.com. Dispatch Coffee
Dispatch Coffee is on a mission to change the coffee supply chain by purchasing from sustainable sources and addressing inequality in the coffee industry. With several offerings of coffees from growing regions around the world, there’s something for every coffee lover. We enjoyed Buhorwa from Burundi: delicate, bright, and citrusy, and fell in love at first sip with Sin Net Chaung from Myanmar: smooth with hints of tropical fruit, cream, and cinnamon. 333g $22-25, dispatchcoffee.ca. 82 Culinaire | October 2021
The Very Good Butchers
Victoria’s The Very Good Butchers have launched their new Butcher’s Select range of premium, plant-based sausages, meatballs and burgers, made with ingredients you can pronounce. They are packed with protein, and most importantly, are tasty! The Mmm Meatballs have a great texture, and were easy to prepare with a simple tomato sauce, while the Breakfast Sausages impressed our pickiest taster yet: a nine-year old with a very selective palate. $8-14, widely available, verygoodbutchers.com
Bring Home One of Okanagan Valley’s Finest Wines Tonight.
DR.L Crisp Clean
BE WELL, DRINK WELL FEEL-GOOD FACTS Under 100 Calories (5oz. serving) Only 6 Grams Carbohydrate Zero Fat or Cholesterol Only 8.5% Alcohol 100% Riesling Fruit Pesticide Free
Juic y
Gluten Free GMO Free All Natural Nut Free
Fresh
Vegan
A CONSISTENT BEST BUY
2018, 2017, 2015, 2014, 2013
drloosen.com
2018, 2015