Culinaire #10.7 (December 2021) by Culinaire Magazine

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S D E C E M B E R 2 02 1

Beer Gift Guide | Sweet Treats | Sparkling Wines | Best Beef Tacos

2 Culinaire | December 2021

December 2021 | Culinaire 3

contents

Volume 10 / No. 7 / December 2021

departments 8 10

Salutes and Shout Outs

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Celebrating the Sweetness of the Season

38 Making The Case A toast!

40 Etcetera

What’s new?

42 Open That Bottle

With Jimmy Nguyen of Porch

22 14

Perfect for celebrations! by Linda Garson

Made to Order The insatiable demand for custom cakes by Adrianne Lovric

20 Step By Step:

Cheese Gougères by Renée Kohlman

Search for Calgary’s ON THE COVER 22 The Best Beef Taco At this time of year we’re feeling festive, and we always want our December cover to inspire that feeling in others. Thanks very much to Natalie Findlay for her beautiful photograph of her easy to make, Decadent Ginger Spiced Cupcakes – see the recipe on page 28!

Winning Sparkling Wines

…is over – the results are here! by Linda Garson

26 Alberta Farm to Food Bank Celebrating Farm-to(Everybody’s)-Table by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

28 Showstopping Decadent Ginger Spiced Cake

Celebrating the season with a quick and easy, rich, spiced cake! by Natalie Findlay

30 December Spirits

10 ideas for sipping this holiday season by Linda Garson and Tom Firth

32 A Bottle of Suds… Crazy… for hazy by Tom Firth

34 Christmas Beer Gifts

The most popular time of the year for seasonals by David Nuttall December 2021 | Culinaire 5

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Looking back… looking forward

ere we are at the end of the year, and I’m thinking of all the craziness that’s turned our hospitality industry upside down: those that couldn’t wait for it to be over, the survivors, the hundreds of new openings, and the creativity, optimism, and passion of their owners… And then I read a new report based on research from food rescue organization, Second Harvest and Value Chain Management International – right now Canada has four times as many food charities as it does grocery stores. Read that again… yes, we have more than 61,000 non-profits providing food to Canadians at low or no cost, and 15,344 grocery stores. What’s your reaction when you read that?

If like me, you thought, ‘wow, that’s fantastic, Canadians are right there at the forefront, always caring and giving, and looking after those in need,’ and then I thought, hang on – why do we need so many food charities? The research shows that Canadian non-profits distributed around $33 billion worth of food last year, which would have made them the second largest grocery store in the country by sales. They provided food to nearly one-fifth of Canadians, an estimated 6.7 million people – and this in a first world, wealthy country. The pandemic also moved the needle in people accessing these services, rising 67% in the Prairies. We can all help, each in our own

way – whether that’s by donations and volunteering, which Albertans are famous for already – or by thinking ‘what does my community need from me?’ We’re already supporting them by dining out, getting takeouts, shopping locally – but is there more? Can we think about holiday gift giving, and where we’re buying and ordering from, and give gift cards and experiences to our loved ones? However you give, we thank you, and hope that 2022 will see less need for many of us, and to know where our next meal is coming from for more of us. We’re the ‘can do’ province, the province that can have it all – and I wish you a joyous holiday time with your family and friends, and a prosperous 2022. Cheers

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

For show-stopping platters and gifts that never get regifted. We’ve got you covered this holiday season. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Dong Kim Renée Kohlman Adrianne Lovric Dave Nuttall Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Adrianne Lovric

Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publiclytraded companies. Fuelled by caffeine and curiosity, she always says yes to dark roast and opportunities for new adventures. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.

Dave Nuttall

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He achieved his Beer Judge Certification in 2012, and is the head judge for Calgary International Beerfest, as well as judging the Alberta Beverage Awards and Alberta Beer Awards. He has appeared on radio, television, and in the movie Aleberta: Our Beer History. He is also a freelance writer for print and online, speaker, and has run Brew Ed beer courses since 2014. Follow him @abfbrewed.

Renée Kohlman

Renée Kohlman is a professional cook and baker, freelance food writer and columnist for the Saskatoon StarPhoenix. She's also the author of two best-selling cookbooks: All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions, 2017) and her most recent Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions 2021). Renée lives in Saskatoon and writes a popular food blog Sweetsugarbean.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

TO FIND A RETAILER VISIT: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/+827889

@pws_canada @pacific_canada @pacificcanada

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Congratulations to Chef Jinhee Lee JinBar is the only Alberta spot on Air Canada's Best New Restaurants list 2021! Congrats to Canela on relocating the vegan bakery to Inglewood, at 1319 9 Avenue SE. Pick up all your baked goods here, and also order online at canelayyc.ca. Closed Mondays. Calgary’s one-stop vegan shop, For Goodness Bake, is open in Kingsland, at 7337 Macleod Trail SW, with food and drinks from 20+ Alberta producers - including Canela! You can also rent space in their vegan commercial kitchen, and sell your products in the store. Seven days, 8-8 pm. forgoodnessbake.ca. Florida sandwich shop, Jon Smith Subs, has burst into Canada with a location in Calgary’s Legacy Village – and it’s busy! They’re supporting local breweries and local producers, with these loaded 6” and 12” subs and sandwiches, and they’re cooking your fries and poutine to order – it’s definitely worth the wait… and the weight! Gurbinder Singh and Amrinder Cheema, have family history in restaurants and know a good thing when they see it – we expect to see more locations soon. Edmonton, it’s coming your way too! Seven days, lunch and dinner. Blowers & Grafton have opened their second Edmonton location, bringing their East Coast hospitality and Halifax street food, drink, and music to Windermere, at 6255 Currents Drive. Lunch to late, seven days. 1103 17th Avenue SW is now South Street Burger’s sixth Calgary location. Build your dream burger from a choice of 30+ toppings on antibiotic- and hormone-free Angus beef patties. Vegan, chicken, halal, and GF too, with Montreal’s La Diperie ice cream for frozen treats. 11-late, seven days. Toronto Argonaut, Shane Richards, grew up in Calgary, and has opened a lunchtime wing spot, 4 Corners Wingstop, in Calgary’s Ampersand Building on 4 Avenue SW. Have your fast fill of 5, 10, or 15, big and juicy 8 Culinaire | December 2021

whole wings, 11 am-1 pm weekdays. 4cornerswingstop.com. Welcome Pizza Project! Four classic 18” New York-style pies or a slice of 22” are yours from the back door of Meatball Project, 1130 Kensington Road NW. With dough fermented 48 hours in-house, they’re ooey gooey, and melty, with a crisp base, yet foldable and floppy too. Call 587-356-0792 to reserve your time, as slots fill up fast. Wednesday-Sunday 5-10pm or until sold out. Calgary has a trio of extremely good Italian restaurants to add to your list of faves! Possibly the hottest ticket in town is D.O.P., in the ex-Von Der Fels location on 1 Street SW. Tony Migliarese, of Proof, Tavernetta and Pizza Face, has created a beautiful homage to his late restaurateur father, with family photos covering the walls of this friendly 30 seat spot, and a much-loved menu based half on his mother’s old Calabrese family recipes, and half Head Chef Sandro Chinea having fun developing his own. There’s rightly been a lot of social media on the white anchovy and the whipped ricotta antipasti, the plate-size egg-yolk raviolo in red wine butter sauce, and giant veal chop. Special menus feature seasonal produce (truffles last month!).

Reservations essential, dopyyc.com. 4 pm-late, closed Sundays. Mission’s ex-Towa Sushi location at 2116 4th Street SW is refurbished and now home to fine dining, Grande Amore, presenting Chef Marcel Bondea’s expertly executed, traditional Italian fare. Strong on seafood, everything is very fresh on this constantly changing small menu, with daily specials such as Osso Buco and Veal Marsala. Their risotto con frutti di mare, gamberi, bruschetta, and steaks are deservedly very popular! We’re excited for their plans for upstairs next year too. Tuesday-Saturday lunch 11-2 pm, dinner 5 pm-close. grandeamore.ca. The newest Italian in town is the light and bright, Trullo Trattoria, in Oak Bay Plaza on 90 Avenue SW. From Purlieu Modern Bistro’s Jason Armstrong and Eric Mah, it’s a similar, but Italian, take on classic, yet modern, cuisine, with chef Chris Barton (Anew Table and Deane House) heading up the kitchen. Choose a couple of excellent antipasti or one of four burrata dishes, pastas, or a Romanstyle bread pizzette – it’s one of the best in the city! Wash it down with an Italian cocktail or Trullo’s own gin. Open 4 pm-close, with plans for lunch soon. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Prepared by our incredible

Calgary Zoo catering team

Watch for Themed Safari Brunches and Takeaway Dinners. Keep an eye out for upcoming experiences at: calgaryzoo.com/events/events-at-a-glance

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Celebrating the Sweetness of the Season

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOGRAPHS BY DONG KIM

e love it when the holidays come round - there’s always so many things to suit the sweet tooth! From confections to cakes, cookies, and beyond, the options are endless when it comes to the finish of holiday meals and New Year celebrations. Some are seasonal favourites, some are family or cultural traditions, and some may even be new additions to our holiday menus. This month’s Chef’s Tips features chefs from Calgary, Edmonton, and Banff, showcasing recipes from all of these elements: favourites, traditions, and new additions that highlight how sweet it is to live in a province as diverse as Alberta, that can bring us all together in so many ways. perfect your creations.” Nougat, which originated in the Mediterranean, is one of Lam’s favourite holiday confections. “Even though it can be found year-round, I tend to make it during the holidays as it is a more decadent confection loaded with nuts and dried fruit best saved for those special occasions.”

Soft Nougat Baking is something Ilynna Lam has always loved, beginning as a small child growing up in Regina, Saskatchewan. Moving to Edmonton for university, Lam majored in chemistry and minored in food nutrition science, subsequently working in the oil and gas industry for a few years after graduating. She always held a second job related to food however, which led her back to school at NAIT. Lam is now a Red Seal Baker at Eleanor & Laurent in Edmonton’s Garneau neighbourhood. “My baking is inspired by all things delicious that bring joy to those who partake,” explains Lam. Her biggest influence is Chef Amaury Guichon, and she has a deep respect for his creativity and finesse. “I strive to understand the hows and whys of various techniques and methods,” says Lam. “With knowledge comes endless possibilities to create, and 10 Culinaire | December 2021

Makes one 20 x 20 cm pan 1 cup (100 g) almonds (slivered or whole) ¾ cup (100 g) pistachios 2 large egg whites 1½ cups (250 g) sugar 1/3 cup (75 mL) water ¾ cup (180 mL) honey ¾ cup (100 g) dried cranberries Cooking spray 1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Line a 20 x 20 cm cake pan with parchment paper sprayed with cooking spray. Have an additional piece of parchment paper sprayed with cooking spray ready for the top. 2. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and toast for about 10 minutes. Once toasted, mix nuts with your dried fruit and reserve in a warm area, this will help with the incorporation into the meringue.

3. Place your egg whites into the stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. 4. Place sugar, water and honey into a pot and attach a candy thermometer to the side. Cook on medium-high heat until mixture reaches 132° C then start whipping your egg whites to soft peaks. When your sugar mixture reaches 143° C remove from heat and carefully pour the hot sugar mixture down the side of the mixer into the whipped egg whites. Whip until your meringue has cooled slightly, it should be fluffy, glossy, and with a medium-stiff consistency. 5. Remove bowl from mixer and with a rubber spatula fold in the warm nuts and cranberries. Immediately transfer into your prepared cake pan and press into an even layer. Top with the other piece of sprayed parchment or rice paper. 6. Let the nougat set overnight. 7. Cut into desired pieces with a lightly oiled knife. Store in an airtight container.

Note:

Preparation is key when it comes to making nougat at home. It’s sticky and messy but worth it. The addition of dried fruits and nuts is versatile as you can add any kind of nut or dried fruit you like, candy gumdrops or chocolate chips.

Growing up in Iran, Kamran Mousavi worked in bakeries where he familiarized himself with traditional recipes for pastries and other baked goods. His education would eventually lead to a master’s degree in chemical engineering, but his love of baking endured, and he is now one of two bakers at Buddy’s Bakery, in Calgary. He loves to share his baking experiences and encourages others to try their hand at creating sweet treats in their own kitchens. “Many of my recipes are quick and easy and bring family together for a fun home baking activity,” says Mousavi. With just five ingredients these Walnut Puff Cookies come together in a pinch, and they’re gluten-free, too. Mousavi encourages a bit of experimentation: “I use a finely ground walnut, but you can use a coarser ground walnut. To decorate, you can set aside some larger walnut pieces, and gently press a piece into the top of each cookie before baking.”

“These cookies remind me of when I was a child and my mom and aunts spent the afternoon baking before Nowruz (Iranian New Year),” adds Mousavi. “As a little kid, I would sample these fresh and hot from the oven!” And though Nowruz is celebrated in March, these cookies are fit for a gathering of loved ones any time of year.

Persian Walnut Puff Cookies Makes 30-35 4 cm cookies

1¾ cups (200 g) walnuts, chopped 5 egg yolks 1¼ cups (150 g) icing sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp ground cardamom

1. Preheat oven to 350º F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Pulse the walnuts in a food processor until finely ground. 3. Mix the egg yolks and sugar until pale and creamy. 4. Mix in the ground walnuts, cardamom, and vanilla and stir until well combined. 5. Drop heaped teaspoonfuls of the mixture on a baking sheet with around 3-5 cm between each cookie, or fill a pastry bag or Ziploc bag with the corner cut off to pipe mixture into rounds. 6. Bake for approximately 8-10 minutes until golden. Leave them to cool on the baking sheet for at least 10 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.

comfort & joy Happy holidays from Cococo We are proud to handcraft delicious chocolate confections in Calgary using simple ingredients and sustainable, fair trade couverture chocolate, for you and your family to enjoy. Free shipping for online orders over $60 Use code SPARKLE at checkout Shop in person: Victoria Park • Bankers Hall Signal Hill • Southcentre • Dalhousie Station Curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights Shop online: www.CococoChocolatiers.com chocolate together

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDA GARSON

Having worked in and staged bakeries in Canada, England, and Scotland, Red Seal Baker Sheena Howdle developed an interest of baking from other cultures. Her current role as Lead Baker at Wild Flour Bakery in Banff, allows her to “meet and work with many people from abroad and also to gain experience in a Canadian ‘from scratch’ bakery.” For Howdle, the job of any great baker is to use local ingredients and present them in the best way. “While abroad, I was most impressed with people who were able to capture the importance of using local flours and products in their day-to-day production.” As a result, Howdle strives to use whole grains and Canadian flour as often as she can, and highlight seasonal produce wherever possible. Her White Chocolate and Orange Tart with Cranberry Orange Compote allows for the use of local options. “Cranberries are a beautiful, seasonally appropriate fruit to use in small quantities. You can find Low-Bush Cranberries in certain areas in Alberta and they are always a treat.” To save time, Howdle suggests making things the day before, and assembling the tart just before serving. And don’t worry about it being picture worthy. “Don’t feel that your desserts need to look perfect,” says Howdle. “The taste is what really matters.” 12 Culinaire | December 2021

White Chocolate and Orange Tart with Cranberry Orange Compote Buckwheat Tart Shell

¾ cup buckwheat flour ½ cup + 2Tbs (100 g) all purpose flour ¼ cup (100 g) cold butter, cubed ¾ cup icing sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla 1 egg 1. Blend all ingredients by hand or in a mixer until the dough just starts to come together. Place dough in cling film and chill in the fridge for at least an hour or overnight. 2. Roll out the dough on a floured surface until it is large enough to fit in your tart shell or pie tin. Gently push the dough into the bottom of the pan’s grooves and edges. Trim the edges and poke the base with a fork a few times to prevent the base from bubbling while baking. 3. Chill the dough in the tin for 20 minutes before baking. Bake for 25-30 minutes at 350º F or until the shell is pale brown and the base no longer looks wet.

White Chocolate and Orange Mousse

¾ cup (180 mL) whipping cream 1¼ cup (200 g) white chocolate, chopped 1 cup (240 mL) mascarpone cheese ¼ cup icing sugar 1 orange, zested

1. Warm the whipping cream until it starts to boil, remove from heat and pour over the white chocolate. Stir until combined. 2. Immediately add the mascarpone, icing sugar and orange zest. Whisk until combined. Place in the fridge overnight.

Cranberry Orange Compote 4 - 5 fresh or frozen cranberries, 1/3 cup (80 mL) orange juice ½ cup (125 g) white sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) balsamic vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla ½ tsp cinnamon 1/8 tsp ground cloves 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg

1. Place all of the ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. Simmer until the cranberries go soft and you can smush the cranberries with the back of a wooden spoon. 2. Place in a container in the fridge and allow to cool overnight. To Serve 1. Use electric beaters or a stand mixer to whip the white chocolate and orange mousse until it looks like whipped cream. 2. Place a thin layer of the compote into the bottom of the tart shell, reserving some for the topping. Cover with the whipped mousse almost to the top edge of the shell. Drizzle remaining compote onto the top of the tart. Serve with shaved white chocolate on top if you wish.

Saïd M’Dahoma is a self-taught French Comorian baker in Calgary. Born in Paris and raised on pastries, he earned his PhD in neuroscience and came to Canada to do research. Finding there was a lack of French pastries, he decided to try making his own. He spent hours reading books and blogs, and combined his knowledge with his background in science. M’Dahoma is now The Pastry Nerd, providing online classes to novice bakers, and selling his goodies at pop-up events in Calgary. “I am mainly influenced by ingredients,” says M’Dahoma. “I believe that even the simplest dish can shine if the ingredients used are amazing, and Canada is full of them.” His French and Comorian backgrounds also play a big role, which is why he’s sharing a recipe for a simple but elegant Yule log. “A Yule log is the traditional cake everyone has at their table for Christmas in France,” he explains. “The sponge is moist, the cream is delicious and the whole dessert is super easy to make.” As his grandmother was a vanilla farmer in the Comoros, M’Dahoma prefers using the vanilla pod and beans as a way of expressing his heritages. He adds, “You can make the vanilla ganache with vanilla extract but the taste will never be as good. It’s Christmas, so go crazy and buy an actual vanilla pod!”

Chocolate and Vanilla Yule Log Vanilla Whipped Ganache

2/3 cup (160 g) white chocolate, coarsely chopped 1¾ cup (420 mL) 33% whipping cream, divided ½ vanilla pod 1. Heat ½ cup (120 mL) whipping cream to a boil. Add vanilla pod and its beans, and allow to infuse for at least 15 minutes. 2. Remove pod and pour hot cream on chopped white chocolate, and whisk. Add remainder of whipping cream and whisk until smooth and combined. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours.

Roll Cake

3 egg yolks 3 egg whites 3 whole eggs 2/3 cup sugar, divided 1/3 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup cocoa powder

1. Preheat oven to 430º F. Line a 33 x 46 cm baking sheet with parchment paper, and grease lightly. 2. With a hand mixer, whisk egg yolks with 3 eggs and ½ cup sugar until pale and thick. 3. Whip your egg whites to soft peaks with remaining sugar. Add to the rest of the egg mixture. 4. Sift flour and cocoa together, and combine with egg mixture, making sure there are no lumps of flour left. 5. Pour onto prepared baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes, or until set. Allow cake to cool completely. 6. Once cake is cool, whip vanilla ganache to soft peaks and spread on the cake. Roll up cake from the short side. Sprinkle with icing sugar before serving.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. December 2021 | Culinaire 13

Winning Sparkling Wines!

JUDGES SELECTION

Frind Estate Winery NV Brut

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia CSPC +840941 $31

BY LINDA GARSON

an there be anything more celebratory than popping the cork on a bottle of sparkling wine? Whether you’re marking a special occasion, have just won a Formula 1 motor race, or maybe commemorating a personal achievement or success, you can’t help but smile with bubbles in your glass. For some of us, it’s hard to imagine ringing in the New Year without clinking those flutes! This year’s Alberta Beverage Awards saw a wonderful selection of sparklers from a variety of countries and at a variety of prices, and it’s the perfect time to shout them out, and let you know the winning sparkling wines that rose to the top on our judges score sheets. We hope they play their part in making your holiday celebrations extra special.

BEST IN CLASS

Moutard NV Grande Cuvée Brut

One-off Special Premium Seasonal Pairing Dinner at Oxbow Wednesday December 1 A deliciously indulgent evening with a 5-course premium pairing meal in Oxbow’s private dining room for a smaller number of guests. Vine & Dine at Allora Thursday December 2 and Wednesday December 8 14 Culinaire | December 2021

Champagne, France CSPC +852355 $57-$62

Monte Creek Winery 2020 Living Land Sparkling British Columbia, Canada CSPC +798645 $22

Noble Ridge 2016 'The One'

Champagne, France CSPC +830776 $61-$65

Most evenings sell out, so don’t delay in reserving your places!

Gremillet NV Brut Selection

Okanagan Falls, British Columbia CSPC +769194 $47

Allora was voted one of 2020 10 Best New Calgary Restaurants. Join us in our private dining room for six delicious courses and the pairings that complement them! Hotel Arts 4-Course Premium Paired Takeout Dinner Package Friday December 17 and Saturday December 18 Our Hotel Arts 4-course paired takeout dinners with videos have been so superb - some people have ordered them twice. We're delighted to offer one more! Vine & Dine at Safari Grill Wednesday December 15 We’ve been missing this rich and flavourful, satisfying food, so we’re

coming back to Safari Grill for a 6-course Vine & Dine pairing dinner, for one night only! Christmas in Italy at Bonterra Trattoria Sunday December 19 We’re coming back for our fifth Christmas in Italy at Bonterra! It’s special upstairs in the romantic wine room, savouring this elegant Italian cuisine. Restaurants and menus are added regularly, so keep checking culinairemagazine.ca/events. Contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802 to reserve, and to hear about these very popular events in advance! We try to cater for all allergies.

Made to Order:

Custom Cakes BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC

Sweet Cocoa Butter Cakes

SWIRL Cakeology

Cake and Chocolate

s a kid, my experience with cake was limited to birthday parties, where cakes were either slab or ice cream. The fanciest cake I could name was Black Forest. That all changed once I started accompanying my young children to birthday parties. Cakes were no longer the standard transition to the gift opening portion of the party. They were presented as showstoppers — appreciated and enjoyed, by kids and adults alike, for their unique designs and flavour combinations. What happened to the days of fighting over a corner piece of grocery store cake with extra icing?

16 Culinaire | December 2021

“The Food Network and baking show competitions are to blame,” laughs Deb Cook, of her inspiration to begin creating custom cakes 12 years ago, and the reasons behind the demand for them. The owner of CAKEify Studio, and recent participant on The Food Network’s The Big Bake: Holiday Season 2, says cakes have evolved over time as people have come to understand how edible pieces of art can be sculpted from cake. “In the past, cakes were generally finished in white icing, with icing flowers — a traditional, classic finish. This evolved into cakes that featured a fondant finish and flowers. Now it’s all personal preference, depending

on the cake design. Generally more sculpted cakes will have fondant, while more rustic cakes will be finished in buttercream.” The influence of baking shows on people’s appreciation of what can be done with cake is undeniable. “It has changed the requests we receive. People are understanding what you can do with cake, helping them to realize they can have more than an average cake at their event,” confirms Lynnette MacDonald, owner of SWIRL Custom Cakes and Desserts, and The Big Bake Season 1 alumna. MacDonald and her team regularly field requests for realistic replicas of

CAKEify:

DIY kit option

luxury cars and handbags, and have also replicated planes and the Calgary Tower with cake. “We can defy physics and gravity. We can do more with cake given the artistic freedom to create something special for our clients.” MacDonald says a cake structure doesn’t depend as much on the type of cake or filling as it does on proper assembly and tricks of the trade. “The medium doesn’t change, but the engineering on how it is designed and built does.” Social media has also influenced demand for custom cakes. Anthonia Anowai of Cakeology, has seen cakes evolve drastically over time becoming taller, rather than wider. “Cakes in the past were either slabs, or one or two rounds stacked and decorated. Now they are two to four rounds that are much more elegant.” Like Cook and MacDonald, Anowai works closely with clients during the intake to understand the theme, colour scheme and personal preferences. More often than not, clients will have drawn inspiration from cakes they have seen on social media. Anowai stresses the importance of research before ordering because everyone has a different style and approach to cakes. “That’s the power of social media for ideas, but I add my own style instead of replicating specific pictures. Given a theme and colour scheme, having as much room to play is what I love.” Ultimately, it isn’t only the jawdropping design that sets a custom

cake apart from a generic ready-made cake. “A custom cake features the finest ingredients, freshly assembled from scratch with love and proficiency,” says Debbie Obio, owner of Sweet Cocoa Butter Cakes. In addition to the evolution in cake design, Obio has also seen a change in flavours. “Flavours have become more fabulous. People are pushing flavours to the edge — it might be tropical here and spicy there — our clients are more experimental, adventurous, and open to marrying different flavours.” For some clients healthier, allergyfriendly options are either necessary or just preferred. Elena Murashova, owner of Cake & Chocolate, creates custom mousse cakes that are lower in sugar.

SWIRL Sweet Cocoa Butter Cakes

One of her one kilogram cakes contains 10 grams of sugar or less. “People are surprised by the natural sweetness and the feel of the berries or fruit, and all the textures that play in the mouth,” she says of her art-inspired cakes that feature mousse married with a one centimetre sponge base that can be made gluten-free, and a layer of fruit, berries, compote or confit. Some of her more popular flavour combinations include passion fruit and mango; lemon and blueberry; champagne with strawberries; and caramel apple. From designs to flavours, it is anyone’s guess as to what the future might hold for cake design. According to MacDonald, the past 18 months have made it hard to determine trends because so much has been unknown, and the constant change has forced many people to celebrate in the moment rather than planning events months in advance. “Although many clients are sticking to classic, elegant, tried and true designs, the sky is the limit for what we can do with cake. Think outside the box, come with your craziest, most challenging ideas because that’s what fuels us,” she says.

Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly-traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.

18 Culinaire | December 2021

Cakeology

CUSTOM CAKE ORDERING TIPS:

• Do your research. Check out social channels and websites to get a feel for what different cake designers can do and where they specialize • Come prepared with the following information: Event date Number of servings Theme Colour scheme Ideas for inspiration • Costs vary according to the complexity of the design. A 6-inch custom cake can start at approximately $80, and easily go up from there. • Be sure to factor in time for multiple consultations depending on design, sourcing ingredients, baking, decorating, and delivery If you feel the need to deliver a homemade cake for a special occasion but your skills are at more of a “Nailed It” than “Cake Boss” level, the team at CAKEify has a DIY kit option, in addition to custom cakes. CAKEify will provide the cake, icing, all the components and decorations as well as online tutorials. “You can come to us with an idea and we’ll point you in the right direction,” says CAKEify’s Deb Cook. DIY kits start at $45 and are assembled in CAKEify’s nut-free facility. CAKEify Studio: cakeifystudio.com SWIRL custom cakes and desserts: swirlcakes.ca Cakeology: cakeologyyyc.onuniverse.com Sweet Cocoa Butter Cakes: @sweetcocoabuttercakes Cake & Chocolate: @cake.andchocolate

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An exceptionally versatile wine, good with pasta dishes dressed with rich sauces (meat or mushrooms); grilled or roast red meat, and game. Ideal with well-aged cheeses.

Very well balanced, and excellent with red meat, game, quail, and richly flavoured dishes. Also enjoy with well-aged cheeses, such as parmesan, pecorino and gorgonzola, or on its own as an after-dinner wine.

Vegan Friendly: Masi do not use any animal by-products or allergy-causing products in the production of their wines.

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STEP BY STEP:

Cheese Gougères STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

choux paste. The ingredients are very simple, but there is a little bit of technique involved in the process. It’s nothing to get too worked up over though. It mostly comes down to timing, elbow grease and a good wooden spoon.

It’s best to make millions as they are sure to disappear

ne thing I like to make ahead for holiday snacking are cheese gougères. If you’re not familiar with gougères, think of them as savoury cream puffs. We all love cream puffs, right? These are made with the exact same dough (choux paste) but there is hard, sharp cheese, like aged cheddar or Gruyère stirred into the dough at the end. They bake up into golden globes of goodness,

20 Culinaire | December 2021

which you can stuff with a herbed cream cheese, or you can eat them warm, as is. They are the perfect little bite to serve with cocktails and sparkling wine, and it’s best to make millions as they are sure to disappear faster than you can say Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer. If one is not in a partying mood, gougères are also excellent when dunked in soup and stews I understand that some people may feel intimidated when it comes to making

To start, make sure your eggs are at room temperature. Boil together water, milk, butter and salt. Easy, right? Now dump in a cup of flour, turn the heat down to medium and stir the dough, quite vigorously, for about 2-3 minutes. This is the hardest part, and you may feel like giving up, but don’t. This is an important step in drying out the dough, which will ensure that the eggs are fully absorbed. When the dough is shiny and smooth, and there is a crust on the bottom of the pot, dump the dough into the bowl of a stand mixer, or you can use a hand mixer as well. Back in the olden days, people would have used their arms and a wooden spoon, but I’m not that ambitious, or strong. Beat the dough on medium-low

speed for 2 minutes so it cools down. Next, beat in each egg, one at a time, until the dough is smooth and slides off the paddle, then stir in some mustard and grated cheese. You could also stir in chopped fresh rosemary, thyme or cracked pepper. Drop by spoonfuls and bake for about 25 minutes. In the end, you have indecently cheesy gougères, with a crispy exterior, and a soft, almost eggy interior. For those of you planning ahead, scoop out the dough, then freeze the gougères until solid. Transfer to an airtight container, and bake from frozen when the time comes. I guarantee you’ll feel like a total smarty pants, winning at this holiday entertaining thing.

Cheese Gougères Makes about 50

½ cup (125 mL) whole milk ½ cup (125 mL) water ½ cup salted butter, cubed Pinch of salt 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 5 large eggs 2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard 2 cups grated cheese, such as Parmesan, sharp Cheddar, Asiago, or Gruyère 1. Position the racks so they are in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425º F. 2. Bring the milk, water, butter, and a pinch of salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat to medium and use a wooden spoon to stir the flour into the liquid. You want to be fairly energetic about this process. The dough will form a ball and there will be a light crust on the bottom of the pot. Stir for about 2 minutes so the dough dries out. 3. Transfer the dough into the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on medium speed for 2 minutes. Add 4 eggs, one at a time, beating on medium speed until each one is incorporated before adding the next. Separate the last egg and beat in the white. The dough may look like it’s separating but eventually it will smooth out. Scrape down the bowl a couple of times during this process. Beat in the mustard and 1½ cups of cheese.

4. Spoon or scoop out heaping tablespoon-sized balls of dough (I use a mini ice cream scoop), and drop the dough onto prepared baking sheets, leaving about 5 cm between balls. Beat the yolk with a bit of water and brush the top of each ball. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. 5. Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the heat down to 375º F. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the baking sheets from the oven and rotate from top to bottom. Bake for another 10-15 minutes until the cheese puffs are puffed, deeply golden, and firm enough to pick up. Serve immediately. These are best served warm. If serving later, they can be stored at room temperature and reheated at 350º F for a few minutes. 6. Make ahead/freezer instructions: Scoop the dough and freeze on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pack the frozen balls in an airtight container. You can bake them straight from the freezer, adding a few minutes extra to the baking time. You can also freeze cooked gougères in an airtight container. Reheat at 350º F for a few minutes.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story has just been released.

THE SEARCH FOR CALGARY’S

Best Beef Taco BY LINDA GARSON

t seems everybody loves tacos - and who could have guessed there were so many outstanding examples to love in Calgary? In collaboration with Alberta Beef, we set out to find out how Calgary fared in the world of beef tacos and asked our readers and our followers on social media and television to nominate your favourite. We were astounded at the enthusiastic response, and embarked upon the most enthralling, lip-smacking journey! With 53 tacos spread over 25 eateries, our team of myself, Tom Firth, and Keane Straub, couldn’t do this alone, so we enlisted two local experts to judge too: esteemed Mexican Chef Norma French, and passionate beef aficionado, Megan McLeod. 22 Culinaire | December 2021

“Wow! Who knew that Calgary's taco game was so strong? I truly have to commend all of the nominated establishments on providing such a high calibre of tacos for us to judge,” McLeod says. “They certainly didn't make it easy for us. I highly recommend trying all the nominated establishments if you can… You won’t be disappointed.” We visited nominated locations all over the city, and met many passionate people. “Whether I was eating in a pub downtown or tucked away at a table in a market, I encountered so much love and pride for the food being served, and it was evident in every bite I took,” says Straub. “I’d gladly walk through a blizzard for any of our winners.”

What makes the perfect beef taco? What were we looking for? • Beefy delicious tacos: Is it good quality beef? How is it cooked? Is it barbecued, braised, roasted, sautéed, pulled? Is it juicy or dry? • The ingredients: what else is in the taco, and does it belong? Are the ingredients fresh? Do the tacos "pop" with deliciousness? As with all food, we’re looking for balance: spice where it belongs, and a depth of flavour. • The presentation: how good do they look? Tacos are often rather casual fare, but they should still look good and have us drooling! • And finally, with twice the weight of each of the previous categories, we asked ourselves how highly would we recommend this to a friend.

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We take this very seriously, and if we’re recommending the best of the best, every piece has to be good – and consistently good. We’ve split our awards into four distinct categories: • Authentic Birria – from Jalisco in Mexico, birria is a warm and spicy, slowcooked stew. The tortillas are usually dipped in the fat on the top of the stew, filled with the stewed beef, and popped onto the griddle to crisp. The sauce from the stew is served as a dipping sauce for the tacos. • Authentic Carne Asada – top quality beef, likely marinated first, and grilled or fast seared, then sliced. There’s nowhere to hide with carne asada! • Classic – just great quality, great tasting, beef tacos as you’d hope for. • Contemporary – creative taco concepts! “It was an exceedingly close contest, where the differences between tacos was within a point or two, and ultimately our judge’s score sheets reflected how likely they would be to recommend the tacos at a particular place,” says Firth. “Even then, it often came down to the atmosphere and ambiance - and the passion of the staff, there were many really good tacos that we couldn’t include here.” With the on-going restrictions posed by Covid-19, some of these restaurants may be working with reduced menus or limited opening hours. You may wish to call ahead or reach out directly to them. Below are the results of our exhaustive search for Calgary’s Best Beef Taco, with a few words from our judges on why they liked them.

AUTHENTIC BIRRIA

Our highest scoring birria taco is a tie! Con Mi Tacos 821 1 Street SW (evenings at Meat & Bread), $4.75 each “How do they make these so delicious? Chef Mikko has spent a good amount of time in Mexico visiting some of the best places to learn taco making and its flavours, and it shows. They grind their corn each morning and hand-press each tortilla to order.”

Calavera Cantina 4307 130 Avenue SE, $5 each “This is an amazing braised beef short rib. 4½ hours in a smoky-sweet sauce flavoured with cinnamon, clove, and ancho peppers made for a juicy, savoury bite that had me wanting to lick the platter it was served on.” Highly Recommended winners (in alphabetical order): A1 Cantina Seafood 828 49 Avenue SW, $6 each Stuffed Salmon “I almost couldn’t pick my favourite tacos at A1, but those birria tacos were so filling, and so firmly in the realm of good comfort food, I need to get back there again and make it a taco afternoon.” The Moose and Poncho First Street Market, 1327 1 Street SW $6 each “Chef Miguel Cornejo leads a passionate team, and keeps his standards high. You can tell everything is made from scratch, and they really care about what they put on the plate.” Spicy Amigos 822 4 Avenue SW, $16.50 for 4 tacos “Spicy Amigos tacos are memorable. They use shredded sirloin for their birria, and grill Oaxaca cheese for them too. There’s four of these in a portion, and you’ll be glad!”

AUTHENTIC CARNE ASADA

Our highest scoring Authentic Carne Asada: Unimarket 127 50 Avenue SE, $10 for 3 tacos “Great char with a bit of fat for extra flavour, this carne asada was tender, savoury, and juicy, and is worth the trip off the main drag. Order in groups of three and enjoy it again, and again, and again.” Highly Recommended winners (in alphabetical order): Native Tongues 235 12 Avenue SW, $6 for 2 tacos “This is a substantial taco with generous slices of grilled steak wrapped

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in a quite large corn tortilla, with chiles tornados, cooked green onions, and a super delicious salsa aguacate on top.” Tres Marias Mexican Market 3514 19 Street SW, 4-5 person kit $63, includes beans and rice “This one is a little bigger than the 4” tacos that we saw a lot, and I was glad for it: get it with avocado salsa, which is tangy-sour and complements the char on the juicy and tender beef.” Tropical on 17th 1424 17 Avenue SW, $18 for 3 tacos “Made with top sirloin steak, these carne asada tacos are tender and slightly smoky with an array of salsas, chipotles and tomatillos. Exquisite presentation for a street-style taco.” Tu Tierra 8995 Bonaventure Drive SE $13.50 for 2 tacos “Mouth-watering, and mouth filling, these flavourful tacos show off the quality of the ingredients and the passion of the people involved. Bring your appetite!”

CLASSIC TACO

Our highest scoring Classic Taco Mikey's Taco Shop, Beef Brisket Taco 918 12th Avenue SW, $11 for 3 tacos “The brisket is braised for 5 hours, shredded, and cooked again with special salsa with tomatillos and tomatoes – the end result? Flavourful, balanced, and a place I’ll be back to for sure!”

CONTEMPORARY TACOS

Highly Recommended winners (in alphabetical order): Cannibale, Beef Taco 813 1 Avenue NE, $18 for 3 tacos “Bring your appetite to Cannibale, there’s no skimping on these slowcooked Alberta AAA beef brisket tacos. We love the potato, avocado, and feta on them too - and a terrific Chimichurri sauce.” Chilitos Taberna, Barbacoa Taco 1309 17th Avenue SW $4.25 each “Seemingly simple but oh-so delicious, Chilitos’ barbacoa tacos come with a double layer of 4½” corn tortillas loaded with shredded beef in adobo sauce – and I mean loaded!” Local Public Eatery, Pinche Beef Taco 201 Barclay Parade SW $11.50 for 3 tacos “A trio of very good quality, tender tacos – they’re cooked slowly to perfection in a mole sauce, and beautifully presented. They disappear fast, I highly recommend them.” Mestizo Mexican Street Food Bistec Taco Fresh & Local Market & Kitchens, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE $4.95 each “Tender, juicy grilled beef topped with fresh onion, cilantro, and jalapeño, this was my favourite of the three kinds of beef taco on their menu. The chili adobo sauce was the perfect amount of heat to highlight the beef flavour.”

Our highest scoring Contemporary Taco The J Spot, Beef Bulgogi Brisket Taco Fresh & Local Market & Kitchens 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE $4.95 each “Whatever you do, don’t just order the Beef Bulgogi Taco without asking what goes into them. Days of effort, slow cooking, and attention goes into this intensely flavoured, interesting approach to a taco.” Highly Recommended winners (in alphabetical order): Gringo Street, Guinness Braised Short Rib Taco 524 17 Avenue SW, $4.50 per taco or 5 for $19.50 “Braising short rib in Guinness is clever as you don’t taste beer, it just adds a rich depth of flavour to the meat. Top that with burnt onion crema and strips of crispy sweet potato - and it’s killer!” Tacos Mexico YYC, Chipotle Beef 7403 Macleod Trail SE, $6 each “This chipotle beef taco was everything I could want in a taco: tangy, saucy, and tender, with that smoky chipotle zip. Squeeze a bit of lime and add some hot sauce if you’re feeling adventurous.” In collaboration with:

OUR JUDGES:

MEGAN MCLEOD

a Field Specialist for Alberta Beef, Meghan’s vast knowledge of the beef supply chain comes from 15 years on her family owned and operated meat production facility. As a thirdgeneration producer, she knows the importance of where food comes from, and all that goes into producing the beef on our plates.

TOM FIRTH

Culinaire’s Managing Editor, and a devoted carnivore. He also crunched all the numbers from our score sheets, and was impossibly excited about trying so many tacos around the city – plus the prospect of having a cold beer or two after all the judging was complete.

24 Culinaire | December 2021

NORMA FRENCH

a chef from Mexico City, Norma ran her catering business, Los Sabores de México, for 23 years. She personally cooked for Alejandro Iñárritu while he was filming The Revenant in Alberta, and thought there would be nothing new for her judging these tacos. Now she says she couldn’t have been more wrong!

KEANE STRAUB

who has never met a taco they didn’t like, and more or less jumped at the chance to find new places to eat and meet the people behind the food. Eating tacos at 10 am isn’t for everyone, but Keane doesn’t back down from a challenge, and is happy to say that even after the judging, they were still craving tacos...

LINDA GARSON

Editor-in-Chief and publisher of Culinaire, who is rarely seen without a fork or glass in her hand, and has spent many years eating and sipping her way around the world. She eats and drinks for a living, and spends most of her time writing and talking about it!

oy s J e h i ma r T h of C

VOTED 2021 BEST NEW CANADIAN WHISKY Gray Jay Deluxe Canadian Whisky is perfect for all occasions. Smooth and unpretentious, it lets you make your own rules. Buy a bottle today, and enjoy every sip, just as you like.

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A couple winners for the Holiday Season

2021

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ALBERTA FARM TO FOOD BANK:

Celebrating Farm-to(Everybody’s)Table BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

hen it comes to making donations to community food banks, most of us think about non-perishable foodstuffs, and fishing cans of beans or soup out of the back of the pantry for holiday food drives or adding donatable packages basics like mac ’n’ cheese and other essentials to our grocery cart at the till. But as welcome as those kinds of donations are, those in need of food also need some fresh produce on their plates, which is where an industrious initiative called Alberta Farm to Food Bank comes in. Alberta Farm to Food Bank is

26 Culinaire | December 2021

spearheaded by Steve Breum, who farms on a property near Pigeon Lake in Central Alberta. In 2018 the farmer looked at his vegetable garden and thought about how the potatoes, parsnips, carrots, and beets he was growing could be used to feed people who may be struggling to get food on their own tables. Knowing that there are somewhere in the neighbourhood of 90,000 Albertans accessing food banks throughout the course of a (prepandemic) year, Breum contacted the food banks in Calgary and Edmonton and worked out a partnership so that he could get his vegetable harvest to the

people who needed it most. Since that first brainwave, Alberta Farm to Food Bank has donated more than 100,000 lbs of fresh food to various food charities throughout the province. Breum says that the idea to donate root vegetables stems from the Alberta farm traditions that his family grew up with. With the fragility of supply chain systems being brought into light with the COVID-19 pandemic, more than ever he’s come to embrace and be inspired by the principles that kept generations of Albertan farmers before him fed through the winter, including the tradition of the humble root cellar.

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While a lack of modern-day root cellars means that most of Alberta Farm to Food Bank’s produce is eaten fairly soon after harvest, Breum is focusing on vegetables that have a longer shelf life than items like fresh lettuce or greenhouse tomatoes. “I went back to thinking about my childhood and what we did when we needed food or how Grandma and Grandpa would have survived,” Bruem says. “Root vegetables would have been stored and lasted until spring. They’ve got the nutrition, they’re cheap to grow, they don’t require a lot of expensive packaging or labour — it’s a way to feed people very efficiently. For a lot longer than we’ve had just-in-time delivery, there have been potatoes stored in buckets in people’s cellars and garages.”

Another farm family tradition is, of course, the idea of people looking after their neighbours, which is also core to Alberta Farm to Food Bank’s mandate. Since starting his program, Bruem has moved away from partnering with larger food banks that already have a good infrastructure when it comes to securing both monetary and in-kind donations and is now working with smaller foodbased charities to make sure that his produce is going to Albertans who may otherwise be going hungry. For the 2021 harvest season he partnered with a wide range of service providers including the Rock Soup Greenhouse and Food Bank in Wetaskiwin, Calgary’s Made by Momma, the Giving Garden in Dewinton, and Edmonton’s Canadian Volunteers United in Action Society (CANAVUA), to share his food as far and wide as possible.

“The smaller organizations don’t get the help that the bigger entities get. People kind of forget about the little outfits,” Bruem says. “We’ve got everything from a walk-in food bank, where you grab a shopping cart and take what you need, to restaurants that provide soup for people who need a meal. There are some really unique ideas out there.” There’s no denying that Bruem’s idea is a good one that could have an even stronger impact if other farmers were able to jump on board and even further increase the quantity of food donated, but as with almost everything in the charitable sector, funding is an issue and while Bruem would love to expand and get other farms involved, he is running Alberta Farm to Food Bank as a grass roots endeavour. He does have some corporate sponsors helping things along, but is always looking for more funding, both from partner companies and individual donors through albertafarmtofoodbank.com. Either way, Bruem and his family are committed to getting their food to the people who need it, no matter what it takes. “We’re doers,” he says. “We’re farmers. We go out and we get things done.”

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

Spiced Ginger Cake

Makes 2 – 22.5 cm round cakes or 12 cupcakes

SHOWSTOPPING DECADENT

Ginger Spiced Cake

¾ cup (180 mL) molasses ½ cup (120 mL) apple sauce ½ cup sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) maple syrup ½ cup (120 mL) neutral oil (like canola) 1½ cup all-purpose flour or gluten-free all-purpose flour 1 cup buckwheat flour 1 Tbs ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground cloves ¾ tsp allspice 8 grates nutmeg pinch salt 2 tsp baking soda 2½ Tbs grated ginger 1 tsp ground ginger 2 eggs room temperature, whisked Note: A microplane is perfect for grating the ginger. Another option is to roughly chop the ginger then add it to your food processor along with the sugar and pulse until the ginger is finely chopped.

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

OW DO YOU MAKE THE holiday season extra special without making it harder on yourself? This showstopper dessert is all you need this season of celebration. The cake comes together quickly and easily with a couple of bowls and a hand whisk, and the icing can be whipped up with hand beaters. From such a simple technique, you will be delighted with the deep, rich, spiced flavour that will complement your festive dinner parties or enjoyed with afternoon tea.

28 Culinaire | December 2021

Heat oven to 350º F. 1. Line the bottom and sides of your 22.5 cm (9”) round cake pan with parchment paper or cupcake tin with liners. 2. Mix together the molasses, apple sauce, sugar, maple syrup and oil. 3. In another bowl, sift together flours, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg and salt. 4. In a small saucepan or kettle, bring 1 cup (240 mL) water to a boil. Add baking soda to hot water, then mix into molasses mixture. Stir in grated ginger. 5. Gradually whisk the dry ingredients (flour and spice mixture) into the wet ingredients (molasses mixture). Add eggs, and continue mixing until everything is thoroughly combined. 6. Pour the batter into prepared cake pan, and bake about 35 minutes (about 20 minutes for cupcakes), until top of cake springs back lightly when pressed or until a toothpick inserted into centre comes out clean. Cool cake for at least 30 minutes. 7. Run a knife around edge of cake to loosen it from pan. Invert the cake onto a cooling rack, and peel off parchment paper. Let cool completely before icing.

LIBERTÀ

AWARD WINNING! JAMES SUCKLING:

Note: You can also bake the batter in loaf pans for perfect slices to pack for lunch.

Cream Cheese Icing Makes 2½ cups

1 package cream cheese, room temperature ½ cup butter, room temperature 3 cups icing sugar, sifted 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract 1½ Tbs (22 mL) lemon juice 1. In a medium bowl using a hand mixer, whip butter and cream cheese until combined and smooth. 2. Gradually add icing sugar and whip (starting on low so as to not have icing sugar fly everywhere) until fully incorporated and smooth. 3. Add the vanilla extract and lemon juice and whip again until smooth. There are plenty of ways to spruce up your cake or cupcakes for guests. However, without stressing yourself out and taking on too much before your party, there are a couple of ways to add a bit of cheer: Note: This cake is delicious on it’s own without icing. It is lovely and warming with a mug of coffee or tea or even a glass of port as an after dinner treat.

- When decorating cupcakes, outfit the bases in party pants with a bright red or green foil liner.

- Along with the white cream cheese icing, top the icing with simple red or white nonpareils. Bright, cheery and simple. - Another simple and effective way to decorate your cakes is with natural decor. This simple candied technique will have you sugar coating anything you can find.

Candied Coating Technique 1 egg white 1 tsp (5 mL) vodka or water 1 cup super fine white sugar Decorations of choice

Note: You will also need a small paintbrush that has not been used before. Make sure you decor is bug free, pesticide free and non-toxic. Prep your decorations so they are clean and dry. 1. In a small bowl, gently whisk the egg white and the vodka (or water) until combined. The egg white will become a bit frothy. (The vodka is used because it dries a lot quicker than water but water works just as well.) 2. In assembly line fashion, use your paint brush to paint on the egg white then lightly coat with sugar and place on your drying rack or a piece of parchment and leave to dry overnight. 3. Once everything is dry they can be stored for a month in a cool dry place. Now you can get your cake decorations done early in the month.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

2010-91/100 2011-91/100 2012-90/100 2013-92/100 2014-90/100 2015-92/100 2016-93/100 2017-92/100 2018- 92 /100

DECANTER:

2014 91 points

2021 ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS:

Best In Class Italian Red Wine Blend.

TASTING NOTES Very deep, it tells of the excellent quality of the grapes. Balsamic, typical of the main grape variety in the blend. Round, pervasive, with sweet tannins, perfectly balanced. Complex, long, yet not overpowering.

December 2021 | Culinaire 29

December Spirits BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

‘TIS THE SEASON INDEED. DECEMBER IS A WONDERFUL MONTH TO huddle up inside, and either dream of getting out and about in the great outdoors whether a nice walk, bundled up with your favourite scarf and some new mitts, a skate around a neighbourhood rink – perhaps some shinny? Or even hitting the slopes or snowshoeing in the mountains. Maybe instead you’d rather sit by the window or by the fire and pretend that summer is only weeks away. However you plan on spending your December, we have some good ideas of what to put in your glass or “adult-up” your eggnog. Gray Jay Deluxe Canadian Whisky Ontario Mmm… this is one smooth whisky! It’s from a craft distillery in Niagara Falls, where they call it ‘approachable’, but we’d call it ‘fast disappearing’ – it’s so easy to drink! We suspect it will be appreciated by enthusiasts and aficionados alike, with its vanilla and butterscotch candy profile, and silky mouth feel. We might add a touch of ginger ale/beer to spice it up, but it’s a great sipper, and easily versatile enough for the base of your favourite whisky cocktail. CSPC +837346 $35-40 Brecon Chocolate Orange Gin, UK This might not be for everyone, but if you like to wake up on Christmas Day and dive straight into your stocking hoping to find a chocolate orange - and find a bottle of Brecon Chocolate Orange Gin instead - then you’re in luck! It’s all there without being overbearing, there’s a distinct cocoa flavour and bittersweet oranges, but on the palate it’s rather creamy and smooth. The bottle suggests mixing with tonic, but I’d just sip it neat and smile! CSPC +842308 $49-52 Burwood Winter Gins, Calgary Following the success of their small batch summer gins, those clever folk at Burwood have brought out a trio of winter gins. Our fave is the Spiced Apple Gin, it reminds us of cupping our hands round mugs of hot, spiced cider at Christmas markets, with tempting baking spice aromas of cinnamon and clove, and oldfashioned apple pie. In the bottle it’s blue, but watch what happens when you add a splash of tonic – or even better, add prosecco!! CSPC +859821 $50-56 30 Culinaire | December 2021

Distillery 291 Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey, Colorado, United States An exceedingly classic, barrel strength bourbon, but with some remarkable, unique qualities, including that these are spirits from Colorado, where clean, mountain water, high altitudes, and small batches are part of the charm (sound familiar?). Clean cereal flavours, a bit of toffee, and a lingering finish round out an excellent bourbon experience that is off the beaten path. CSPC +855235 $125-135 Distillery 291 Colorado Bourbon Barrel Proof, Colorado, United States Right up around 128 proof (62.5 percent ABV), this might be best with a few drops of water here and there. A rye whiskey with all the spice we love in them, but also some unique barrel characters including some finishing in charred Aspen staves. It’s a little too hot – certainly for enjoying neat, but a little chilled water eases the heat and lets the spice and honey/cereal flavours come out. CSPC +855236 About $135-145 Burwood Bee Whisperer, Alberta Prairie Whisky, Calgary I love hot toddies at this time of year, and Burwood’s second edition of their Grains Of Truth Series, The Bee Whisperer, has the same effect – a beautifully warming combination of whisky and honey that is so perfect for these chilly evenings when it’s lightly snowing outside. The first edition, The Scientist, sold our pretty quickly, and with a limited run of 2,500 bottles, you might not want to wait too long to stake your claim to one of the Bee Whisperers! CSPC +859619 $70-75

THERE’S NO BETTER TIME TO ENJOY A CREAM LIQUEUR THAN OVER the holidays or on a snowy winter’s day. This year we are seeing a lot of innovation and new releases on the creamy front. Disaronno Velvet Cream Liqueur, Italy Can there be anybody that doesn’t love amaretto? So how to kick it up a notch? Make it an amaretto cream. And boy, is it delicious! In the recognizable square bottle with the flat, square cap – but in white - this is just as good as you’d hoped for – maybe a little lighter than you might expect, (which is a good thing in cream liqueurs), but with all that lip-smacking almond flavour. Add a dash of this to your pancake batter and watch their faces! CSPC +832276 $34-38 Zuidam Velvet Dream Cream Liqueur The Netherlands What do you get when you blend Dutch dairy cream, rich chocolate, sweet caramel, and real vanilla with rye whisky? The stuff real whisky cream liqueur lovers dream about! And it’s all here in this bottle from Zuidam Distillers. It’s easy to see why this took an award in this year’s Alberta Beverage Awards: it’s classy and sensuous, rich and unctuous, sweet and chocolatey – and you’ll want it in your coffee any time of day! CSPC +845670 $54-58

Wayne Gretzky No 99 Maple Canadian Cream Liquor, Canada Ha! Just when we feature the Salted Caramel Cream in our Holiday Gift Guide, Wayne Gretzky Distillery has brought out another cream liquor – the Maple Canadian Cream, and it’s a stunner! It’s still got those delicious whisky-caramel notes, but with the burnt sugar flavour of maple… besides sipping over ice, I can think of many uses, from adding it to your crème brûlée and pouring over ice cream and pancakes – but do try it in an espresso… CSPC +852648 $34-39 Tia Maria Matcha, Holland We’ve always associated Tia Maria with coffee, so it’s fascinating that it’s now associated with tea – Japanese matcha to be precise! Add some alcohol and Dutch cream, and a little sugar (though it’s not sweet), and you’ve got a most unusual – yet most delicious - smooth and delicate, elegant, pearlescent, sage green cream liqueur. Try rimming your glass with a little sweetened matcha to complete the drink! CSPC +845919 $32-36

A HOLIDAY TRADITION PANETTONE CHRISTMAS BREAD www.cibl.com

5310 5th Street SE Calgary, Alberta 403-255-3515 | 1-800-661-6868

A B OT TLE O F S U DS …

Crazy…for Hazy BY TOM FIRTH PHOTOS BY JASON DZIVER

t’s nigh impossible to find a craft brewery that isn’t making an India Pale Ale and while it’s possible to find a wide range of big and brassy examples, sometimes, it’s the subtle examples that call out to you. The waters got even murkier a few years ago with the advent of the Hazy or New England IPAs, and then with West Coast, Juicy, Doubles and Triples, and still even more sub categories showing up in taprooms and store shelves. If you like your India Pale Ales, there is sure to be something made locally to wet that whistle. Revival Brewcade Mana Beast West Coast IPA, Alberta As a child of the 8-bit era, I love the callbacks to when the quarter was king, and love having a fine brew too, while fondly recalling those days. Mana Beast is a West Coast IPA but with a smokey, almost oily/caramel hue to the resinous hop presence. Weighing in with 7 percent ABV, it might be a bit… beastly for a session ale, but after a long night plugging quarters… CSPC +823701 4x473 mL $18-19 Cabin Sunshine Rain IPA, Alberta Cabin’s West Coast IPA has a deep, resinous aroma and a mild, almost honey-like sensual note. This is a big, chewy glass of IPA compared to many, but manages a fine sense of balance too – if you like plenty of hops. Drinking this, I’m recalling violent thundershowers on hot August evenings. Rain pelting down, hot sidewalks, and ozone in the air. CSPC +812918 4x473 mL $17-19 32 Culinaire | December 2021

Banded Peak Microburst Hazy IPA Alberta As the name implies, microburst is a little intense. Hop driven, tropical fruit laden, and with a rich mango character akin to mango ice cream, and lots of floral and citrus flavours. It’s a stronger beer at more than 6 percent alcohol, but this East Coast has some serious refreshing powers. CSPC +841941 4x473 mL $18-20

OT Brewing 5 Hundie Hazy IPA Alberta Very pale, floral, and super tropical, from fresh vanilla to peaches and juicy pineapple on the nose and on the palate. Almost creamy on the palate too but where it really shines is in having a fairly mild bitterness that doesn’t take away from the all the fruit. A bit of a crushable, hazy IPA – and that is not a bad thing. CSPC +820771 4x473 mL $16-18

Village Nomad India Pale Ale, Alberta Another hazy IPA, but aside from the clarity of the beer, it’s a much more classic style of IPA with bright hop aromas, a mild, resinous pine character, loads of citrus tones, and the right amount of bitterness to support it all. This is exactly the sort of beer that works its finest magic on a hot summer day, close to the mountains, and after a long day enjoying some of our natural wonders. Drink up! CSPC +825617 4x473 mL $16-18

Trolley 5 Juicy 5.0, Alberta A juicy IPA that might be getting a little hard to find as summer becomes a distant memory, but this strong beer, with 7 percent ABV knocking on the door, shows off pineapple and peachiness with a mild pine undercurrent (mild… for IPA) and a wickedly rich and balanced palate. The alcohol, the hops, and all that flavour make for a fine glass while chilling out with some tunes. CSPC +854771 4x473 mL $16-18

Serves

December 2021 | Culinaire 33

Christmas Beer Gifts T BY DAVID NUTTALL

he fall season heading into the holidays of December is usually one of the most exciting times of the year for beer lovers. Not only do whole new varieties appear, but it’s the most popular time of the year for seasonals. Spiced and dessert beers, winter warmers; bottle conditioned and aged beers; fun, holiday-themed beers; and the special releases all tend to make an appearance in the last quarter of the year. It’s also the time when gift packs and advent calendars arrive, making giving the gift of beer a slam-dunk, even if it’s just for you. This year, the number of special beers and packages are still not at the level they were in 2019, but have improved over 2020. Last year, as the pandemic was hitting its winter wave, many of the usual products never appeared. There are many reasons for this, but the biggest cause was the uncertainty amongst brewers and importers about what, not only the holiday season, but the whole year of 2020 leading into 2021, was going to look like. Producers often plan their programs several months, even a year in advance. When COVID hit in March 2020, no one was sure how the rest of the year was going to play out, so many plans were scrubbed. The repeated closing and reopening of breweries, restaurants, bars, and stores played havoc with production and staffing. In addition, the supply lines of ingredients and packaging, let alone transportation issues, exacerbated the situation. Therefore, most breweries, liquor agencies, and importers, went with the tried and true. By staying the course with their regular items, the supply would remain somewhat normal through uncertain times. This put the kibosh on many seasonal and special products, given that they don’t want to be selling Christmas beers in June. So while some items did appear in 2020, on the whole, it was pretty much a down year for special beers and gift packs. As optimism grew with the arrival of the vaccine in late 2020, things have improved somewhat in 2021, and this holiday season will see an improvement over 2020. Below are some of the items to look for in stores for yourself, or as a gift for the cerevisaphile on your list.

34 Culinaire | December 2021

BEER ADVENT CALENDARS They have been in our market for ten years now. You can now find multiple versions from around the world. The original Craft Importers Craft Beer Advent Calendar 2021 repeats its theme from 2020 with 24 cans of gold medal winning beers from around the world. CSPC +1189148 $165. Others include: Most Wonderful Time For A Beer Advent Calendar from B.C.’s Parallel 49 Brewing Company. CSPC +824986 $95

Craft Beer Advent Calendar

German Beer Advent Calendar 2021 Edition with 24 unique German beers, cans not otherwise available. CSPC +858063 $120 Stiegl Advent Calendar from Austria. CSPC +858111 $70 Also look for unique in-house versions of beer calendars from select local breweries and liquor stores.

Stiegl Advent Calendar

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As the end of 2021 draws near, we’re busy planning articles and features for 2022, and we're always looking for ways to make the most of Culinaire Magazine for you. Of course, the best place to start is to let us know who you are (don’t worry, the survey is completely anonymous), and what you like about Culinaire Magazine. Head to culinairemagazine.ca or scan the QR code to take our short Reader Survey, and enter for a chance to win one of three $175 gift cards for beautiful Spirit Wares Ceramics (spiritwares.ca)! Our survey is open until December 31, 2021. Winners will be selected at random on January 7, 2022.

December 2021 | Culinaire 35

Averbode

GIFT PACKS WITH GLASSWARE Averbode (Belgium). 4 bottles and glass. CSPC +798132 $22 Bosteels Kwak (Belgium). 4 bottles, glass and stand. CSPC +715775 $37 Delirium Noel (Belgium). A Nocturnum, a Tremens, and 2 x Christmas Beer and glass. CSPC +761985 $24 Erdinger Variety Pack (Germany). 5 different beers and a glass- three of the beers are not available singly - in addition to the Dunkel and Weissbier. CSPC +519751 $21

Lindemans Taster

36 Culinaire | December 2021

Delirium Noel

Erdinger Variety Back

Lindemans Taster (Belgium). One bottle each of Kriek, Pecheresse, Framboise, Faro and a glass. CSPC +826315 $21 Duchess De Bourgogne Gift Pack (Belgium). 2 x 750 ml. bottles and glass. CSPC +798131 $26 Chimay Trilogy (Belgium). One bottle each of the Red, White, Blue, and a glass. CSPC +858839 $22

Chimay Trilogy

Erdinger Bavaria Pack (Germany). A Dunkel, a Weissbier and a glass. CSPC +720039 $13

Duchess De Borgogne

Erdinger Bavaria Pack

De Ranke Pere Noel (Belgium), CSPC +753781, $16 750 mL bottle Shepherd Neame Christmas Ale (UK), CSPC +808709, $8 500 mL bottle Samuel Smith Winter Welcome (UK), CSPC +408005, $8 550 mL bottle Blindman Super Coffe Stout

UNIQUE BEERS Most breweries will be turning out holiday or winter themed beers over the next few months, but many had not committed to what exactly they were going to be at press time. For a list of past local beers which may or may not reappear, check out Culinaire December 2019 issue: What’s New in Winter Brew That Rings True?

Blindman Super Coffee Stout (Lacombe), smooth rich coffee flavour, CSPC +861597, $18 for 4 x 568 mL cans Xhale Brew Co. Aunty Rene's Plum Pudding Porter (Calgary), dessert in a glass CSPC +861806, $19 for 4 x 473 mL cans Wild Rose Brewery's Cherry Porter (Calgary). A seasonal favourite now in 4 x 473 mL cans $14

OTHER

You can support your local breweries by buying more than their beer. You’ll find many sell shirts, hats, glassware and a host of other items that make great gift items. You can also buy gift cards for those hard-to-buy-for beer lovers.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

2021 Winning Wines, Beers & Spirits!

2021

Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer is pleased to offer four special December packs of award winning wines, beers, and spirits from the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards!

Food Friendly Libations:

A mixed case of 6 Best In Class Wines! six mouthwatering recipes included

Special for December, only $124.99!

Cocktail Worthy Creations: 3 Award Winning bottles of Vodka, Whisky, & Tequila!

cocktail recipes included

Special for December, only $122.99!

Highly Rated Reds: A mixed case of 6 Award Winning Red Wines!

Special for December, only $102.99!

Buzz Worthy Brews:

A mixed case of 12 Award Winning Beers!

Special for December, only $47.99!

Now available online at rmwsb.com or in-store Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer 5-225 58 Avenue SE, Calgary • 403.305.0096 • Info@rockymountainwinespiritsbeer.com

MAKING THE CASE

A toast! By TOM FIRTH

It always seems like we have high hopes for the year ahead, and the last few years have been rougher than most would have expected. Our lives in many ways have been upended, and might still be far from the norm. Many of our friends and neighbours might be out of work, their businesses might be struggling, and others might be missing spending as much time with friends and family as they would have liked. We might not feel much like toasting with a glass of bubbly, but I think this is the perfect time to do it – even virtually, as the very act of raising a glass and sharing a moment with someone that matters, is a pretty powerful thing. This month, I’ve chosen a number of sparkling wines (plus a few ports for the sweet tooth crowd) from around the world, that above all else, are exceptionally well-priced yet still tasty, that I sincerely hope that you get to enjoy with someone special. Farewell to 2021, and all the best in the year ahead! Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Undurraga NV Rosé Royal, Leyda, Chile

The Best in Class for our Sparkling Rosé category at the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards, is a super pale pink in the glass, and the aromas too are a little closed at first. Gentle berry fruits with a touch of rock candy and mineral on the nose become plump summer berry on the palate with a creamy mousse and some fantastic complexity on the finish. CSPC +836096 $23-26

JP Chenet Alcohol Free Sparkling Pinot Noir, France

Whatever the reason is for abstaining from alcohol doesn’t mean you have to miss out. Claiming zero percent alcohol by volume, it shows off the grape’s flavours well with plenty of berry notes, a touch of spice and a mildly jammy, but not sweet palate. A surprisingly well balanced sparkling wine alternative, that’s a touch more grown up than sparkling apple juice - I’d have no problems drinking this instead of soda in the afternoon. CSPC +849643 $15-17

Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva Cava Spain

One of the best-known cava producers for Albertans, Segura Viudas was also one of the best-marketed wines for a long time with ground-breaking packaging. Cava of course is the Spanish version of sparkling wine, and the Reserva here is chockablock with green apple and melon fruits, limestone minerality and big, juicy citrus on the palate. A clean and refreshing sparkling wine – what else do you need? CSPC +746962 $17-20

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

38 Culinaire | December 2021

Graham’s 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal

Late Bottled Vintage Ports were the answer when consumers weren’t quite willing to age port before drinking. These LBV ports spend a few extra years in the barrel, softening and opening up, and are filtered, bottled, and released ready to enjoy. Deep and unctuous on the palate with herb and dense berry flavours, rather silky tannins, and balanced sweetness. Perfect for that charcuterie board. CSPC +191239 $25-27

Croft Pink Port, Douro Portugal

Cune NV Rosé Cava Brut, Penedes, Spain

Fiol NV Prosecco, Italy

Mionetto NV Brut Prosecco, Treviso, Italy

Tantalus 2018 Blanc de Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Dunes & Greene NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir, South Australia

Anna de Codorniu Brut Rosé Cava Spain

Freixenet Prosecco Brut, Italy

A lighter expression of port wine than most might be expecting with a little more berry fruit, in a bit more of a summery expression. Mild, brambly characters show up along with softer, chocolate notes, in a very quaffable port. Try matching with milder cheese, nuts or cured meats. Think a fine charcuterie board, or just some snacks by the fire…. CSPC +785898 $18-21

Justifiably, prosecco took the winedrinking world by storm several years ago. Sure, many sparkling wine aficionados had already discovered it, or moved on, but for the “everyday” enthusiast, the combination of accessibility and value was pretty remarkable. Generous apple-style fruits with a touch of peach and plum while in the mouth, it’s all about those apples and a good frothy mousse, and a lingering finish. A heck of a buy. CSPC +86256 $17-19

Biutiful Cava NV Rosé Brut Catalonia, Spain

Made from grenache grapes, this perfect little Spanish sparkler was also a Judges Selection at the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards, and it is very easy to see why. Fresh strawberry fruit and a decidedly smashed blackberry character along with a smooth, rich finish – this hits the spot. A fine match with salty appetizers or light seafood dishes. CSPC +799777 $19-22

Built around grenache with pinot noir, this pretty little number is bringing orange zest and plum fruits to the party, with a rich, creamy mousse: the berry fruits lead the palate and move into a tight, crisp finish that shows some serious curves and style. While I enjoy sparkling wines just on their own, this would be a fine evening indeed with seafood appies, or even creamy cheeses. CSPC 844655 $19-21

It’s not a very well kept secret, but a blanc de noir sparkling wine is a white wine made from red grapes, in this case, pinot noir. In Champagne, pinot noir traditionally adds a little fruit, but also elegance to the wine. Here, the wine is barest pink in the glass, with mild blueberry, cider apple, and vanillin aromas, but a fine toastiness and salinity. Stunning and delicious, with a smooth mousse and clean citrus fruits. CSPC +784083 $45-50

Another judges selection from the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards, made of mostly pinot noir with 30 percent chardonnay, this is a bottle that over delivers at a very good price. A light, coppery pink in the glass, strawberry fruits with a bit of blueberry, and a little brioche bready character. On the palate, fresh and clean with a nice finish for a quiet afternoon, or boisterous evening. CSPC +760243 $17-22

A lean and vibrant prosecco completely at peace with it’s lifted citrus and tropical fruit flavours, but what really sets this wine apart is the bright acidity and clean, almost steely mineral notes towards the finish. It’s the right sort of everyday sparkling wine for enjoying over dinner (think cream sauces or grilled poultry), but just as at home with popcorn and a movie. A Judges Selection at the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards. CSPC +812819 $17-22

This is good to have on hand, a well-priced sparkling wine to prove that one doesn’t need a special occasion to enjoy a glass of bubbly. Tart fruits with a strong, citrus presence on the nose and palate, it’s also rife with deep mineral and a tart, almost bitter finish. The sort of sparkling wine that is perfectly enjoyable for a toast, but just as perfect for some light snacks and chatting by the fire. CSPC +776485 About $19-23

Freixenet (sounds like Fresh-en-eh) makes sense to expand from Spanish Cava production - remember their “Cordon Negro” with the frosted black bottle? Now they also make prosecco in Italy, and there is nothing wrong with knowing how to make solid sparkling wines at a great price. White peach fruit along with a yellow apple and slightly tropical styling, head into a very easy to manage palate with soft fruits and a long, creamy/buttery finish. CSPC +819670 $26-28 December 2021 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . . Cuispro Foam Pump

Unnecessary soap in our lakes and oceans is a bugbear of ours, so we were excited to try this new Foam Pump from Cuisipro. It’s not only more environmentally friendly but economical too, as you use 25 percent liquid soap to 75 percent water – and the result is a lovely, creamy, thick foam which feels great on your hands. It comes in a choice of eight colours and has a strong suction cup to keep it in place, a great addition next to the sink! $13-19 in stores and at zestspot.com and cuisipro.com.

Wild Folk Non-Alcoholic Classic Cocktails

Dalia Kohen was the founder and owner of Calgary’s The Coup for 15 years, so we already know that anything she does is going to taste superb, as well as being local, organic, and ethical. It’s no surprise then that her two new canned sparkling cocktails are some of the best we’ve tried! Made with a blend of natural herbs and botanicals, Vermouth Spritz and Sparkling Negroni are everything you’d hope for – with a bonus, they’re zero-proof! $5-7 237 mL cans. drinkwildfolk.com for stockists.

The Alberta Box, Winter Edition

It’s the season for gift boxes, and there are some great choices this year, but it doesn’t get more convenient than to pop in to your local participating Sobeys, Safeway, or IGA and pick up The Alberta Box, which houses items from 24 Alberta producers as well as a coupon book with 23 money off or get one free vouchers from some of our favourite local food and drinks makers! There’s also a leaflet with information on each producer – it’s time for the support local feel good factor! $50 Beyond Meat Sausages

As well as being found on menus in Calgary restaurants and in grocery store freezers, Beyond Meat is headed to your breakfast table with Beyond Breakfast Sausage Links. Gluten-free, and packed with plenty of protein, they’re a perfect plant-based pairing with your pancakes or waffles. Most importantly they’ve got great texture and flavour, which can be hard to achieve with meatless options. $8 pack of 8, widely available in stores. The Laughing Cow Mix Zoglo’s Incredible

The plant-based eating trend shows no signs of stopping, and there are plenty of options to choose from. Toronto-based Zoglo’s has introduced their Incredible line -12 new options that are varied and versatile, from cutlets to shawarma, all lactose-free and excellent sources of non-GMO proteins. The Incredible Meatballs and 3 Mushroom Burger made great alternatives for a quick dinner, while the Beef Strips did the trick with stir-fry vegetables. Around $7 at FreshCo and Calgary Co-op. 40 Culinaire | December 2021

Staple of the lunchbox, picnic hamper, and COVID-safe cheeseboard, The Laughing Cow (we used to love saying La vache qui rit as it made us laugh too and sounded so sophisticated!) is celebrating 100 years this year, and has just launched two new flavours with legumes: Chickpea with Herbs and Red Bean with Paprika. They’re tasty, spreadable, quick, and oh-so versatile for appies, handhelds, or just snacking. Still in a round box with eight triangular portions, $4-5 in major grocery stores.

5am Lemon Box

Kick up your gifting! Ontario’s Audrey Jamieson, of 5am Lemon, has created a range of customized gift boxes, presented with your message and your photographs that will really surprise the recipient! Each box has a removeable greeting card and side panels that showcase photos or fridge-worthy quotes (magnets included) but unlike wrapping paper, they’ll want to keep it instead of recycling. Boxes $14 and gift sets from $16 for a Chocolate Lover’s bundle. Order online at 5amlemon.com. Oikos Drinkable Oat Yogurt

There’s no good reason to skip refuelling our bodies. The folks at Oikos have come up with Oikos Oats and Seeds, a great option for when you’re on the run and trying to fit it all in. Drinkable Greek yogurt combined with fruit, oats, and seeds, makes for a quick, nutritious snack that isn’t too sweet or thick, and will fill you up to make the most of your days. We especially love the vanilla, apricot, oats and seeds flavour. 190 mL $2 widely available in grocery stores.

Bruce County Nut & Fudge

Sisters, Melissa, Yvonne, and Tanya, have been creating hand-melted and decorated chocolate, fudge, and nutty treats for over 18 years - and now they’ve released two new delicious caramel candy apple flavours: Hot Chocolate - dipped in Belgian milk chocolate, wrapped in toasted marshmallow, and dusted in cocoa; and Figgy Pudding - dipped in gingerbread-infused caramel, topped with dried figs, roasted walnuts and drizzled with spiced Belgian chocolate. Yum! $15-20 at nutandfudge.com.

Ninja Foodi Deluxe Tendercrisp Pressure Cooker

This all in one from Ninja has so many functions that we leaned on additional relatives to test them all! It’s a pressure cooker, steamer, slow cooker, and yogurt maker. But with the Crisping Lid, a quick (and easy) change, it air crisps, bakes/roasts, and broils too. And more… it sous vides, and has a food dehydrator. With a cookbook full of clever ideas and menus, we tried several “one-pot” meals - all with well-cooked protein, starches, and crisp veggies. $280 at Canadian Tire and good housewares stores. Thrive Wagyu Beef Bars

Fourth generation Alberta ranchers, the Ball family, supply high-end restaurants with premium Wagyu beef cuts, and are now using the remaining high-quality Wagyu to make their beef protein bars. You’ll read that they’re free of gluten, nuts, soy, and dairy, but we’re hugely impressed with the superb flavours and texture – they’re next level! In Honey Lime & Black Pepper, Maple Apple & Blueberry, Chorizo, and Coffee & Cocoa flavours, snag them at Sobeys, Amaranth, and Nutter’s. 43 g $5.

The Sipster’s Pocket Guide to 50 Must Try BC Wines

Somehow, author and BC wine expert, Luke Whittall has managed to achieve the near impossible: sum up our nextdoor, BC wine region into a mere 50 bottles of must-try wine. Written in a breezy, comfortable, informative fashion, and in many ways brutally honest, this guide will no doubt entertain and inform the armchair BC wine enthusiast, or more likely, get you ready for wine country visits. Touchwood Editions $20-22. December 2021 | Culinaire 41

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with Jimmy Nguyen BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

immy Nguyen was born and raised in Calgary by his mom, who had immigrated with just $20 in her pocket, and while it was a tough upbringing, he credits it with turning him into the person he is - upbeat, and trying to please everyone around him. It has had lasting effects; whether it’s work or a hobby, he goes hard into it – 100 percent. After school, Nguyen took Open Studies and worked in security at The Stampede, which led to a stint with the Calgary Highlanders for a few years. Unsure of his path, and still trying to please his mom, Nguyen applied to Mount Royal University for a degree in public health and physical education, and left the military. “They gave me the ultimatum,” he says, “either you stay in the military or you go to school.” Nguyen had been a bodybuilder; he competed, but had seen “Pumping Iron” with Arnold Schwarzenegger, where they took ballet classes for their posture. After his first class at the School of Alberta Ballet he was hooked, and dropped bodybuilding, training hard to get on stage. He performed three times in California, where he spent his last two years of university, as an intern with Sonoma County Public Health. Needing to pay off his student loans, Nguyen had lied his way into becoming a bartender, working his way up through pubs and bars, eventually to The Nash. “It was a good time because Lauren Mote created the bar program, and she's got the most amazing palate on this planet,” says Nguyen. “I figured cocktailing might be for me. And I got to experience the food.” “So then I needed to teach myself how to cook, teach myself knife skills, and do everything to become good at it,” he adds. To be the best, Nguyen competed, and while it started a little rocky, ultimately he qualified, and it snowballed. “I qualified for The Most Imaginative Bartender with Bombay Sapphire, I got to the Nationals,

42 Culinaire | December 2021

I got to the Regionals for Bacardi Legacy, and Regionals for World-Class. And then all of a sudden I hit a wall.” From the Nash, Nguyen had moved around, working at Whitehall restaurant before going to Sonoma County, opening up Deane House on his return, back to Sonoma County, and back to Deane house, before taking a break from restaurants altogether and running a bike store. “I love, love, love cycling, it's therapeutic,” he explains. “It’s always going to be part of my life, I'm obsessed.” “After my hiatus I got back into the bar industry, and into a corporate role with WestJet, opening up the new lounge at the airport.” But then along came Porch: “It aligns with me because I don't want to take myself too seriously,” he says. “It's been an adventure, as we all highly underestimated what it was capable of. It holds 300, and it's fast-paced. I need to get those drinks out fast, and to make sure my guests are happy.”

So what is Nguyen’s special occasion bottle? “Anyone that knows me knows that I absolutely love, love, love wine. I'm not a sommelier, but I do enjoy a great bottle,” he says. “This is a jeroboam, perfect for a bottle I can store for five to eight years, and it’s from Champagne Duménil. The grapes were actually growing over a lot for peach trees, and you still have that reminiscence of those peaches there. I love bubbles and champagne is my favourite thing - if you offered me a glass of champagne, I will drink it,” he continues. “It's just beautiful to see the influence of something in the past still have an influence on a bottle today. I like to have a story behind every bottle that I drink.” When might he open this bottle? “I like to host guests at my place and cook as well, and for the right people I'll open it then,” says Nguyen. “A jeroboam is four bottles, so if I'm going to have four guests - I think a person can have a bottle to themselves.”

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Culinaire #10.7 (December 2021)

Articles inside

Open That Bottle

Etcetera

Christmas Beer Gifts

Making The Case

A Bottle of Suds

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Alberta Farm to Food Bank

The Search for Calgary’s Best Beef Taco

Made to Order

December Spirits

Step By Step

Showstopping Decadent Ginger Spiced Cake

Salutes and Shout Outs