Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Cozy up to Comfort

BY KEANE STRAUB

When winter first arrives,

we often go through a phase of denial: “Maybe it won’t be so bad this year!” we chirp as we chip away at frosty windshields and penguin-walk down driveways. But January is here again, and with it comes polar vortexes and the fact that we’re not thawing out for at least another ten weeks. Fear not: we’ve got you covered in this month’s Chef’s Tips, as four Alberta chefs share their fave dishes to warm you from the inside out, whether you’re shovelling the walkway, throwing snowballs, or hiding indoors waiting for spring.

Executive Chef Kevin Turner, of Calgary’s Cannibale and Blue Star Diner, got his start in California as a graduate from the California Culinary Academy, and worked in renowned restaurants in Berkeley and San Francisco. Working in California meant a lot of exposure to Mexican culture: “The people I worked with in kitchens were from Mexico, so I learned a lot about their country and cuisine,” says Turner. “I definitely took a liking to all the great food.”

In winter, Turner enjoys taking walks after a snowfall with his dog, Annabelle, but he can also be found curled up under a blanket near a fire, reading a good sci-fi novel. A family home in Canmore makes a great base for winter adventures such as skiing, skating, and hiking.

Of course, there’s nothing like coming home to the scent of a slow-cooked meal in the oven. “Chile Verde is a great cold weather comfort food dish,” says Turner. When braising at home, Turner says to keep an eye on the heat. “If the braise cooks at too high a temperature the meat will become tough and dry. If slowly braised it will take 2½ to 3 hours until the meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender.”

Chile Verde

Serves 8

2.25 kg pork shoulder, cut into 4cm cubes

Pork Rub

2 Tbs ground black pepper 2 Tbs ground cumin 2 Tbs ground coriander 2 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried thyme 3 Tbs kosher salt

1.5 kg tomatillos, husks removed 454 g Roma tomatoes 2 onions, coarsely chopped 4 jalapeno peppers, split lengthwise and deseeded 4 poblano peppers, split lengthwise and deseeded 2 carrots, coarsely chopped 10 cloves garlic ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil 2 limes, juiced 1 bunch cilantro To taste salt 8 cups (2 L) chicken stock 6 bay leaves ¼ cup dried oregano 3 Tbs ground cumin 1 Tbs ground coriander

1. Preheat oven to 450º F. Combine pork rub spices and coat pork pieces. Set aside. 2. Combine tomatillos, tomatoes, onions, peppers, carrots, and garlic with half the oil in a shallow baking dish and roast in oven until golden brown, around 30 minutes. 3. Remove roasted vegetables from the pan and puree in a blender with lime juice and cilantro. Season with salt to taste. 4. Sear pork in remaining canola oil until golden brown. 5. Heat stock, your vegetable purée, and remaining spices in a braising dish. Add pork, place dish in 275º F oven and allow to simmer, uncovered, for 2 – 3 hours, until meat is tender. 6. Serve with rice, beans, feta cheese, and warm tortillas.

When the co-owner of Calgary’s Gringo St., Gustavo Bolivar, moved from Bogota, Colombia, to Quebec 17 years ago, he knew neither English nor French. But the owners of a pizzeria took a chance and for the next two years Bolivar learned as much as he could about cooking. Two years later, he moved to Calgary to be closer to the mountains. He began cooking at Mercato, which set the bar for high standards, and thanks to a small team of co-workers, Bolivar had the chance to further develop his skills.

The demand for quality work inspires Bolivar, especially when it comes to his own creations. “I always strive to outdo myself,” he says. “I know I can always do more.”

Bolivar is still very much in love with the mountains and in winter he hits the slopes with his wife and son. The perfect end to a day of crisp, cold mountain air, is a hot, satisfying meal, and Bolivar’s Ajiaco Con Pollo (Colombian Chicken and Potato Soup) fits the bill. “This recipe is the perfect excuse to get together and share as a family.” Cook with love, he adds, and cook because you want to, not because you have to. “And don’t forget to add the salt!”

Ajiaco Con Pollo

Serves 5-6

8 cups (2 L) cold water 8 cups (2 L) chicken broth 3 Tbs kosher salt 2 (454 g) chicken breasts 3 (150 g) chicken thighs 10 chicken wings 4 cobs sweet corn, halved 3 green onions, chopped 1.5 kg Kennebec potatoes, quartered 1.5 kg red skin potatoes, quartered 250 g new rainbow potatoes ½ tsp ground black pepper ½ bunch cilantro, chopped 3 Tbs dried guasca or oregano Capers To taste whipping cream 1. Add water, chicken broth, and salt to a large pot. Add in chicken breasts, thighs, and wings, corn and green onions. Bring to a boil until chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes. 2. Remove chicken and corn from pot and set aside. Add potatoes, pepper, cilantro, and guasca or oregano to the pot. Cook on medium-high until tender, about 20 minutes. 3. While potatoes cook, shred one chicken breast and slice the other. 4. When potatoes are done, add the chicken and corn back in and let simmer for about 5 minutes. 5. Spoon into bowls and add capers and cream to your liking, and enjoy with rice and avocado on the side if you wish.

Note: Calgary’s Gringo St. is temporary closed for renovations from January 1, 2022, to the first week of March, so mark your calendars and be sure to check them out when they reopen!

Twenty years ago, Warren Copeland started working in kitchens and fell in love with it almost instantly. After apprenticing through SAIT, he worked on large scale projects as a banquet chef, café manager, and Executive Chef, all before joining Hotel Arts as a Chef with SAIT’s Begin Dining Centre.

“I’ve always been the type of chef who enjoys making good, hearty meals,” says Copeland. “After prepping food in a banquet hall for 2,000 people, I just want to make a simple stew at home.”

During the winter, a good book, board games, and some local craft beer, are Copeland’s go-to if he’s stuck indoors. But if the weather’s favourable, he and his family enjoy skiing and hiking.

Risotto is something close to Copeland’s heart, as it was one of the first dishes he learned to make when he started his culinary journey. “As a 19 yearold in the kitchen I thought, ‘Wow! I can cook something like this?’” he explains. “It’s one of my favourite comfort foods, especially in the colder months. With the added items it becomes a great, hearty meal for my family.” Seared Pork Tenderloin with Grape Tomato Chutney, Roasted Broccoli and Mushroom Risotto

Serves 3 - 4

6 cups (1.5 L) chicken or vegetable stock 1 pork tenderloin 1 head broccoli, chopped into large pieces 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil, divided ½ medium onion, finely diced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 250 g grape tomatoes 1 sprig thyme 1 sprig rosemary 454 g of your favourite mushrooms, chopped (chef likes to use shiitake and oyster) 1 cup arborio rice ½ cup parmesan cheese, grated 7 Tbs (100 mL) whipping cream To taste salt and pepper

1. Pre heat oven to 400º F. Add stock to medium pot and heat on medium. 2. Heat 1 Tbs (15 mL) oil in a pan on medium heat. Season tenderloin with salt and pepper, sear all sides to golden brown and the meat reaches an internal temperature of 145º F. Remove and let rest on a warm place on top of your stove. 3. Toss the broccoli with 1 Tbs (15 mL) oil, salt, and pepper. Spread out evenly on a sheet pan and roast in oven 15-20 minutes. 4. Use the pan from the pork to start the chutney. Sauté half the onion and garlic with the tomatoes for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the herbs and ½ cup (120 mL) of stock letting the chutney cook on low heat to reduce the liquid until almost gone. Season with salt and pepper to your taste. 5. While the chutney reduces over medium heat, use another pan to cook the remaining onion, garlic, and mushrooms 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the rice and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. 6. Add 1 cup (250 mL) of stock and stir to combine until mostly absorbed. 7. Continue adding stock ½ cup (120 mL) at a time, cooking until almost absorbed each time. Risotto will take around 10-12 minutes. 8. Once the rice is al dente remove from heat and add the cheese and cream. Adjust seasoning to taste. 9. Slice the rested pork, plate your dish and enjoy!

Errin Massolin grew up immersed in the culinary industry. Her grandfather was chef and owner of Calgary’s Romeo and Juliet Inn, and she would often accompany him to cater events, her most memorable being a Prince concert when she was just 12 years old. “I immediately fell in love with cooking and the rush that comes with it,” she says. Moving to cater indoor events eventually brought Massolin to the executive chef position at the Metropolitan. Today, she is executive chef at Calgary’s Sensei Bar.

Massolin enjoys showcasing the whimsical side of things, adding, “Plating is my artform.” She also paints, and fills time during the winter with reading, cooking, and plenty of red wine. She’s also a die-hard fan of snowmobiling. “There’s nothing like hitting the peak and being surrounded by the most intense sunshine.”

Massolin’s recipe for Stracci di Antrodoco is close to her heritage and her heart as her grandfather would make it every year during the holidays. “The year he taught me how to make it is something really special, and I’ll always remember it.” A simple recipe, she encourages readers to try it even if they’ve never made a crepe before. “Use a non-stick egg pan,” she suggests, “and practice! It’s not as scary as it seems.” Stracci di Antrodoco

Serves 4 - 6

2 Tbs butter 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil ¼ cup finely chopped carrot ¼ cup finely chopped celery ¼ cup finely chopped yellow onion 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 454 g ground beef 2 Tbs Italian seasoning 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 8 cups (2 L) crushed tomatoes To taste salt and pepper 250 g pecorino romano 250 g mozzarella cheese

Crèpes

6 eggs ½ cup (125 mL) water ¾ cup flour

1. Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan and add carrot, celery, onion and garlic. Sauté on low heat so not to brown the mixture. 2. Once the vegetables are translucent add the ground beef and herbs and cook until beef has browned. Add crushed tomatoes, cover, and leave on low heat for about an hour. 3. After an hour, check seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside part of the ragu to cool. 4. Whisk together crepe ingredients to make a thin batter. Heat a medium sized non-stick pan on medium heat. Ladle in enough batter to coat the bottom of the pan in a thin layer. Allow to cook for one minute, then flip and cook for another minute. Turn the heat down if it’s browning too quickly. 5. Stack cooked crepes between sheets of parchment paper and allow to cool. 6. Preheat oven to 350º F. Lay cooled crepes on your work surface and spread 1 Tbs (15 mL) of cooled ragu down the centre of each crepe. Sprinkle both cheeses on top of ragu, and then roll into tubes. 7. Place stracci (crepe tubes) into a baking dish and cover with remaining ragu and any leftover cheese. Place in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes. Remove, and serve while hot.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.