Culinaire #10.9 (March 2022) by Culinaire Magazine

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S M A R C H 2 02 2

Coffee Drinks | Italian Wine | Pesto | Italian Liqueurs | Stuffed Pasta

The best of both worlds

ITALIAN VINEYARDS ALBERTA OWNED

Giusti Wine / Societa Agricola Giusti Dal Col 4 Industry Way SE, Calgary, AB, T3S0A2 Via del Volante 4 – 31040 Nervesa della Battaglia (TV) T.+39 0422 720 198 || F. +39 0422 876 280 www.giustiwine.com | info@giustiwine.com

contents

Volume 10 / No. 8 / March 2022

10 22

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Book Review

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Making The Case

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Why We Cook: Women on Food, Identity, and Connection

Cucina Italiana

For Italian Wine

Etcetera...

Open That Bottle

What’s new? With Joe Giusti

Food Network’s New Wall of Bakers ...features David Rousseau by Adrianne Lovric

The Alchemy of…

60 Years of Local Daily Bread

Pesto Alla Genovese by Natalie Findlay Calgary Italian Bakery by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Coffee

…the Italian way by Shelley Boettcher

Precedes a Story ON THE COVER 24 ATheDrink stage is set for a We’ve always an appetite for good bread, and nothing says “Italy” more than a beautiful, pillowy soft focaccia. Thanks very much to the Italian Centre Shops for providing our delicious cover model this issue, and to photographer, Dong Kim, for capturing it in all it’s mouth-watering glory.

whiskey renaissance by Tom Firth

The Ins and Outs of Stuffed Pasta

A guide for making your own by Mallory Frayn

March Spirits

Who really knows what March will bring? by Linda Garson and Tom Firth

Step by Step

Italian Liqueurs

Roll Out The Barrels

Flourless Chocolate and Mint Crater Cake by Renée Kohlman

900 years of infused distillations by Linda Garson Adding a new dimension to brewing by David Nuttall

March 2022 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

New beginnings … and endings

T FEELS LIKE ITS BEEN A WHILE since we’ve chatted. Our January/ February issue is a joint issue, and in a province like Alberta – that never seems to stand still – a lot can happen in two months. Certainly a lot has happened (and still happening) on the political front, but that’s not what I’m here to talk about – I’m here to tell you what’s happening on Alberta’s food and beverage scene, and when you flick over the page to our Salutes and Shout Outs, you’ll see for yourself that we needed two pages to fit everything in – a staggering 23 new openings! And it’s not only the number of brave souls launching new ventures in the world of hospitality (and a time when lesser mortals would sit on their hands

and wait for things to settle down and be a little more predictable), it’s the quality of these new endeavours that’s blowing my mind. In my quest to keep you in the know, I’ve personally experienced some of the most outstanding food - and service too – in the last few weeks, and couldn’t be happier to tell you about them. Not everything makes it onto these pages, but if you’re in the business of food and/or beverages and opening a new location, don’t forget to let me know… This is our fifth ‘all things Italian’ issue, and it’s always a popular one – the love affair in Alberta for Italian food, drink, and lifestyle, is unwavering and we’re happy to keep that flame alive with more recipes,

recommendations, and stories. It’s also St. Patrick’s Day, a celebration for many too important to ignore; and hopes for renewal and a brighter year ahead with the first day of Spring just around the corner. While I don’t believe I’ve ever talked apart departures here, sometimes while so many new doors are opening one door closes, and it’s with great sorrow that we say goodbye to our friends at Escoba, where I’ve run many memorable Vine & Dine evenings, and wish them every success and happiness as they relocate to their new home in Nova Scotia. Cheers

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

If you’ve got the craving, we’ve got the cure. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Southern Alberta Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Northern Alberta James Jarvis 780-231-7511 james@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Shelley Boettcher Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Adrianne Lovric, David Nuttall Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Mallory Frayn

Mallory is a clinical psychologist, founder of Impulse Psychology, and writer in Montreal. Through both therapy and writing, Mallory's goal is to help people build healthier relationships with food. She has written on food and psychology-related topics for various publications, including her regular column for Psychology Today. Mallory’s work has also been featured in Eater Montreal, Time Out Montreal, and more. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

125 years of history in a bottle

Shelley Boettcher

Shelley is an awardwinning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She’s the author of the best-selling books, Uncorked: The Definitive Guide to Alberta's Best Wines $25 and Under. If Shelley’s not drinking wine, she's probably drinking coffee. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits, or Twitter @shelley_wine, Instagram @shelleyboettcher.

Tom Firth

Tom is a drinks writer, consultant, and judge who has been travelling the world and pulling corks for over twentyfive years. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. He has no qualms about tasting first thing in the morning, and his desk is covered in paper and bottles - somewhere under all that, a corkscrew might be found.

Scan here to find a retailer near you or visit liquorconnect.com

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Visit online at www.cecchi.net

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S

With Mike Pigot and Shamir Bechara in the kitchen we have high expectations, and Calgary’s Pat & Betty delivers. This 40-seat room, 10-seat private dining room, and mezzanine floor, not only look like where you want to eat, (great job Fort Architecture, Chef Pigot and partner James Martin!) but they want to make food they want to eat, and we want to eat it too. Beautifully balanced flavours, colours and textures are the hallmarks of these dishes, served on local Spiritware plates, and complemented by GM Sabrina Raaymaker’s wine list. Reservations recommended. 3-11pm, closed Mondays. With more than 25 years in Indian cuisine, Lazeez Affair is open at 10813, 170 Street NW, Edmonton. An extensive menu means there's plenty for veggie lovers and meat eaters alike (and butter chicken samosas, yum!) weekend lunch buffet, and happy hour every day from 4-8pm. D Spot started in Scarborough, Ontario, eight years ago and has 11 locations there and three in Calgary – and now in Edmonton at 3803 Calgary Trail. A huge menu of hotdogs and pizzas, pancakes and waffles, cakes and ice cream, is all made in-house. 7 days from 1pm. The folks behind Brekkie and Sammie cafes have opened a new breakfast and lunch spot, Maven, in the ex-Janice Beaton location at 1006 17 Avenue SW. Dishes from Chef Michelle Lee-Hobbs’ Asian and German family roots feature on the menu, with noodles, congee, and kaya toast, alongside pork schnitzel and bennies aplenty too! It’s a beautiful space with 6 Culinaire | March 2022

thrifted furniture, and a café in the back shared with Plant it Modern - the plants you see are for sale too. 8am-3pm, 7 days. 6 years ago, husband and wife team, Gavin Fedorak and Braede Harris, opened Edmonton’s Love Pizza - and it fast became a hotspot with weekly specials, keto crust options, and a tater tot menu. Now they’ve opened their 5th location, in Leduc at 5411 Discovery Way. 7 days 11am-9pm. After a two-year gap, Calgary’s Milk Tiger Lounge has moved six blocks south, to 2004 4 Street SW. GM Jordan Wiltshire repurposed much from the space’s previous incarnations to create an airy spot, full of people coming for cocktails from talented mixologists, 11 local beers on tap, and Chef Alison Bieber’s menu of elevated diner food. Try deviled egg with Miss Vickie’s chips and relive your childhood with Wiltshire’s mom’s homestyle meatloaf (all perfect for gluten-free). Watch for take-out and RTD cocktails, and the huge patio. No reservations, 5-11pm, 7 days. Just down the road, for the sweet tooths with a sense of humour, you’ll love TBB Desserts, the new cheesecake, cookie, pudding, and pie shop at

2312 4 Street SW. Colin and Shane (the OG bitchy baker), bake more than 20 flavours of their Calgary-style cheesecake (softer and creamier than New York style) and support local makers too - Motherlode Coffee, Space Pantry Candy, Campfire preserves, local jewelry and bath products. Delivery in Calgary and occasionally to Edmonton. Closed Mondays, see tbbdesserts.com for hours and orders. Village Ice Cream has added a fifth store in Calgary’s University District at 4019 University Avenue NW, right by the Cineplex VIP Cinema! Open every day from 11am. First built as a garage in 1927, Kensington’s Plaza Cinema has been operating as a theatre for 87 years – and it’s had a major refresh. Now with a cool all-day cafe and bar for hot drinks, craft beer, cocktails, and snacks from locals Empire Provisions and Our Daily Brett. theplaza.ca. Take a gastronomic tour of Africa at Chakalaka’s Mama Africa pop up on Calgary’s 17 Avenue SW. It’s so successful, it’s being extended! Enjoy dishes from all over the continent: South Africa, Morocco, Ethiopia, Ghana, and Kenyan cuisines, along with cocktails and African music.

Fun and games await at the The Alice: immersive cocktail experience at Sunny Cider’s location. Viral Ventures Global have brought their style of theatre to Calgary with 1½ hours of cocktails, laughs, and riddles. It’s so successful, we’re hoping it will soon be in Edmonton too! @alicecocktailexperienceglobal. Marc H Delesalle started his career as a pastry chef in north of France, and opened Marc’s Place and Au Croque Monsieur in Drumheller - and he’s chosen Inglewood’s old Starbucks location for his second “Croque” spot! Serving traditional French lunch dishes, soups, salad, and hearty sandwiches on croissant and baguette, there’s a wide variety of delicious baked desserts too to eat in or take home, at 1139 9 Avenue SE. Closed Mondays. Heading east, The Attic Stage & Bar is open upstairs above Vegan Street Taco Bar. It’s cosy, with padded banquettes and ceiling fans, live music, drag shows, burlesque, (and a monthly burlesque Sunday brunch), cocktails and terrific food! Chef Lyndon Hertz cooks in the original pizza oven that’s been there since 1914, and his upscale, creative share plates happen to be vegan too – but you’d never know. Perfect for private events and weddings, with a terrace in the summer. WednesdaySunday 4pm-late, happy hour 4-6pm. With only 17 bar seats and a small space for 8 to stand, the taproom at Blind Enthusiasm’s new Edmonton brewery, The Monolith, can’t take reservations but come anyway to enjoy the three barrelfermented beers, a bite from Biera’s small

menu, or take your favourites to go. 9919 78 Avenue NW, Friday-Sunday. After 40 years, Continental Treat’s Borówka family has opened a second Edmonton location of their popular European bistro, at 9698 Jasper Ave NW. Chefs Elizabeth Palmowska and Carlos Ochoa and their teams are serving up totally gluten-free, traditional Central and Eastern European favourites, lunch and dinner every day. Sam Kyungeun is now joined by Jaewan, and they’ve restarted Edmonton’s Honey Jam by Round 2, offering a selection of katsu and udon, and Korean sides and appies too. Find them Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-9pm at 8130 Gateway Boulevard NW. The ex-Ox & Angela space on Calgary’s 17th Avenue SW, is now home to Lonely Mouth Bar. Everything here is next level: outstanding flavourful food and expert servers, with Chef May Ng showing off her talents – from the pickled cucumbers to blue fin tuna tartare with crackers made from house-made udon noodle dough, to the Osaka-style Brussel sprouts pancake, to one of the best sashimi platters in the city. With 8 beer taps on the wall, cocktails, and a covered heated patio for 10 people, be there noon-11pm, 7 days. 33 years after introducing Cajun and Creole cuisine to Edmonton, Envie has a new home in the Matrix Hotel’s ex-Wildflower Grill space at 10009 107 Street. Traditional soul food classics of gumbos and bisque, po’ boys, jambalaya, etouffée, and more, as well as weekend breakfast (crab cake bennies? Yes please!).

8 There’s a little house in Marda Loop at 1928 34 Avenue SW, with a lovely, heated patio and fireplace, coffee, and wonderful baked goods - Le Comptoir, by François is a bit of France for croissant, tarts, and cakes, as well as quiche, black bean and beet falafel burgers, and salads. François doesn’t scrimp and treats everyone as his guest. He also sells his quiches, mac ‘n cheese, and profiteroles frozen to take home. Bragg Creek has a new bakery and café too! Mabel and Marie's serve modern comfort food with daily quiche, soup, and salad specials, take and bake meals of cabbage roll casserole and chicken pot pie, alongside bread and buns, desserts, perfect fudgy brownies, and squares. Open every day 7am-4pm, at 16 White Avenue. Aloha Hawaiian Poke & Grill is now open at 11315 174 Street, Edmonton, for breakfast all-day every day, poke dishes, and the grill menu influenced by the Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Filipino, and Puerto Rican immigrants who came to work in the plantations. alohapokeandgrill.com. In Edmonton’s former Brewster’s location, Fuzed Kitchen + Bar has opened its doors at 2335, 111 Street. With 12 screens showing live sports and a state-of-the-art surround sound system, you can tuck into wings, burgers, tacos, steaks, and salads every day from 11am. Les Moulins La Fayette’s Johnny Jeulin is a fifth-generation baker, pastry chef, and chocolatier, who started a bakery in 1978 in France. In 1989 he came to Canada and has 20 locations in Quebec, two in Ontario, two in Calgary - and a first for Edmonton, at 4460 Calgary Trail. Open 7 days from 8:30am. March 2022 | Culinaire 7

Celebrating Alberta’s Best Beverages

THE TENTH ANNUAL

Registration opens April 2022 Judging July 2022 Results October 2022 OPEN TO ANY: WINE < BEER < SPIRITS < MEAD < CIDER < MIXER SAKE < LIQUEUR < NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE For ten years, the Alberta Beverage Awards have been finding the very best beverages available to Albertans, using some of Alberta’s finest professional palates, judged right here in the province.

Visit culinairemagazine.ca/ABA to enter your products beginning in April 2022.

Registration Deadline June 30 Judging takes place July 18, 19, and 20 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca Sponsors:

B O O K R E V I E W BY LI N DA G A RSO N

Why We Cook Women on Food, Identity, and Connection By Lindsay Gardner, Workman Publishing, $34

T’S INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S Day on March 8, a day that celebrates women’s achievements in all walks of life. We used to feature women chefs, brewers, business owners, etc. in March until it was made clear to us that these women didn’t want to be singled out for being women, they wanted to be celebrated for just being good at what they do, irrespective of gender. This year, we’ll let Lindsay Gardner celebrate women in food, and we’ll tell you about her beautiful book, “Why We Cook” - 230 pages full of thought-provoking stories, conversations, and essays from 112 women chefs, bakers, wine writers, home cooks, visionaries, and more, from a vast and diverse range of cultures. It’s not only fascinating to read, but there’s a lot to learn from these inspiring contributors,

On track.

many of whom may be familiar to you with likely many more to discover. I admit to reading cookbooks like I read novels – I read every page instead of flicking through to find the shortlist of recipes that appeal the most, and there’s plenty to read here, plus some delicioussounding recipes. Two completely different meatball recipes leapt out at me: Sage Buffalo Meatballs with Sweet Potato Purée (p.79) from indigenous chef and educator, Hillel Echo-Hawk; and Leticia Landa’s family’s modification of Isabel Caudillo’s recipe for Albóndigas from Mexico City (p.213). I’m seriously tempted too by Southern California writer, Sara Forte’s, Grilled Wild Salmon Tacos with Avocado Sauce (p.143), and I hear South African caterer, Elizabeth Binder’s recipe for her “unforgettable”

Citrus Almond Polenta Cake (p.103) calling my name too. As well as the captivating stories, I very much enjoyed the conversations and answers to leading questions such as, “What do you cook when you’re short on time?” (p.152) and “What is the greatest lesson you’ve learned from cooking?” (p.202) – and so many more! Gardner is an illustrator, and every profile, perspective, and recipe in this delightful book is accompanied and visually enriched by her evocative watercolour artworks – a treat for the eyes, as well as your imagination.

As Curator of the Alberta Railway Museum and with support provided by donations to Edmonton Community Foundation, Stephen Yakimets is expanding awareness of the important role rail played in the growth of our province. Donations to ECF inspire hope, create opportunity and enhance the Edmonton lifestyle. We work with our donors to give, grow and transform. ecfoundation.org keeps the trains running through time.

Charity begins at Home.

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Cucina Italiana BY KEANE STRAUB

hen we think of Italian cuisine, pasta is the first thing that comes to mind, and for good reason: it’s delicious, easy to prepare, and there’s a variation for any taste, diet, and budget. But we would be wrong to assume that it is all Italian cuisine can offer. In this month’s Chef’s Tips, we gave six Alberta chefs one simple guideline when it came to choosing a recipe: no pasta. Here you’ll find everything from appetizers to main dishes, with nary a noodle in sight. From family recipes to new twists on tradition, you’ll be delighted with the simplicity of preparation that allows each ingredient to shine.

Jeremy Hube, owner and pizzaiolo at Calgary’s Pizza Culture YYC, has been working in restaurants since he was a teenager. Ten years ago, it was his dream to open a pizzeria - and today it’s a reality. Using a traditional wood-fired oven and long-fermented dough as the base of Neapolitan-style pizzas, Hube says, “We’re off to a pretty banging start.” The menu boasts more than just pizza. As Hube explains, “Italian food is very diverse, just like anywhere else in the world. A lot of people think it’s just pizza and pasta, but that’s just not the case.” No matter the dish however, the focus should remain on ingredients. “Italian food is simple, with only a few ingredients in a dish. So we look for the highest-quality ingredients. When treated properly, there’s no comparison.” Hube’s recipe for Lentils with Broccolini and Burrata is a take on more traditional dishes that use beans and sausage. “You get a nice contrast: a little bit salty with the lentils, and the creamy freshness of the cheese on top. It’s one of those things that you just need to eat.” 10 Culinaire | March 2022

Lentils with Burrata and Broccolini Serves 2-4

1 cup of beluga lentils ½ cup onion, fine dice ½ cup celery, fine dice ½ cup carrot, fine dice 3 large cloves of garlic, fine dice 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 cup (250 mL) white wine 2 cups (500 mL) water 2 pieces of broccolini 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil 125-200 g fresh burrata To taste salt and pepper 1. Rinse lentils in fresh water to remove any debris, set aside. 2. Sweat the onions, celery, carrots, and 2 cloves of garlic in a large saucepan with olive oil over medium heat until vegetables become soft.

3. Add lentils, wine, and water. Bring to a boil and then simmer with lid on until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes 4. Once lentils are cooked, season to taste. 5. Blanch the broccolini and drain well. Heat olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add broccolini and one clove of garlic, and sauté until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Serve lentils topped with broccolini and fresh burrata.

Ossobuco in Bianco Serves 6 to 8

Kathryn Joel is chef and owner at Edmonton’s Get Cooking, a private culinary school which she founded in 2011. A student at Le Cordon Bleu in London and Leiths School of Food and Wine, Joel says she never worked in restaurants after culinary school. She instead landed on teaching by chance while in a work placement at The Seafood Training School in London. “I discovered an affinity for teaching and have followed that path ever since.” “I love Italian food because it’s uncomplicated,” says Joel, which is important when teaching. “Chefs and at-home cooks can draw on what grows in their regions, and that speaks to me and my philosophy on food.” A classic Italian dish, ossobuco, or braised veal shank, was a favourite of Joel’s father. Be certain to caramelize the meat, Joel adds. “The fond in the pan that is the result (those little browned bits that are stuck to the bottom) is the start of the sauce.” And anchovies are a must. “They add an umami savoury note that you don’t really notice is there, but you might miss if it wasn’t.”

8 pieces of ossobuco (veal shank) 4-5cm thick Salt and pepper ½ cup all-purpose flour 3 Tbs (45 mL) grapeseed or canola oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 Tbs butter 1 large red onion, finely chopped 4 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 9 anchovy fillets 1½ cups (375 mL) dry white wine 1 cup (250 mL) veal stock 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh thyme

1. Preheat oven to 350° F. 2. Season the ossobuco with salt and pepper and dust with flour, patting off the excess. 3. In a large Dutch oven over a mediumhigh heat, add grapeseed or canola oil and heat until shimmering. Brown the ossobuco until nicely caramelized on both sides, in batches as necessary. Do not overcrowd. 4. Set the browned ossobuco aside,

then add olive oil and butter to the pan. Reduce heat to medium, and add the onions, seasoning with salt. Sweat the onions for a couple of minutes then add the celery and sweat the onions and celery together, stirring frequently, until soft and lightly coloured, about 10 minutes. 5. Add the garlic and anchovies, mashing the anchovies with your spoon until they have dissolved, and cook just until the garlic is fragrant. 6. Increase heat to high and add the wine to deglaze. Bring to a boil and reduce by half. Add the veal stock, and slightly reduce, and add the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. 7. Return ossobuco to the pan, placing them with the narrow side of the bone hollow down. Place a piece of parchment paper cut to the size of your pan on the surface of the shanks. Cover the pan with a lid and bake in oven until tender but not falling apart, about 2½ hours. 8. Once tender remove ossobuco from the sauce and transfer your Dutch oven to the stove. Reduce the sauce as needed then return the ossobuco to the pan. Serve with risotto, mashed potatoes, or polenta. March 2022 | Culinaire 11

Like many chefs, Alessandro ‘Sandro’ Chinea started his culinary career washing dishes as a summer job. This evolved to moving into the kitchen proper where Chinea’s interest in cooking grew, leading him to SAIT’s culinary program. After graduating, he worked in hotels, golf courses, and downtown restaurants. Since September 2021, he’s the Head Chef at Calgary’s DOP. “I like cooking all sorts of cuisine, from all over,” says Chinea. “When it came to DOP, it was very much owner Tony Migliarese’s vision. He’d tell me, ‘I want people to eat what I ate as a kid with my family.’” Migliarese’s mother, Rose, is also a presence in DOP’s kitchen, as many of the recipes or variations of, are hers, and she worked alongside Chinea to perfect each one. “Italian food is so simple,” says Chinea. “For this recipe, it’s one ingredient, green tomatoes. We do a few things to it – salt it, brine it, press it – and the result is this beautiful, pickled condiment. If you treat an ingredient well, it speaks for itself.” 12 Culinaire | March 2022

Pickled Green Tomatoes 3-4 green tomatoes ¾ cup (200 g) salt 2 cups (500 mL) water 2 cups (500 mL) white vinegar 4 cloves garlic, sliced or chopped To taste chopped parsley Canola oil as needed 1. Slice tomatoes 1 cm thick with a mandolin or by hand. Sprinkle with salt ensuring they all get covered. Transfer the tomatoes into a container with a lid and allow to sit overnight to form a brine. 2. Strain the salt brine from the tomatoes. Mix the water and vinegar and pour over top of the tomatoes, and cover.

Allow these to pickle for 4-6 hours. 3. Press the tomatoes: strain your tomatoes from the pickling liquid. Set up a bowl with a colander on top, add your tomatoes to the colander and lay some plastic wrap loosely over the tomatoes. Grab a stack of 4-5 smaller plates, or a can of beans or some sort of weight to press on top of the tomatoes. Press the tomatoes overnight. 4. Now the tomatoes should be mostly dry, salted, and pickled! Add garlic and parsley and mix with tomato slices. Take this mixture and tightly pack into jars. Add canola oil to the jar as needed to cover tomatoes. Store in the fridge for up to 6 months and serve with pasta, grilled meats, cheese, salumi...whatever!

Focaccia Bread Chef Marcel Bondea has been cooking for more than 30 years. With a background in French cuisine, he came to Canada in 1982 and a short while later enrolled in the culinary arts program at SAIT. After graduating, he worked in several restaurants in Calgary, and today is the chef at Grande Amore. For Bondea, Italian is the kind of cuisine you can eat every day and not get bored of. “It’s so simple. You can use some extra virgin olive oil, a tomato, an onion, some garlic, and some basil, and you are done. It’s such a beautiful cuisine.” During those earlier years, Bondea gained experience using alforno ovens and learning the basics of pizza dough, and in turn, focaccia. “I’ve been working on my focaccia recipe for 25 years,” he explains. “It’s like a never-ending story. I always try to make the same recipe, but I’m also thinking, ‘How can I make it better next time?’” He suggests infusing the olive oil with rosemary or other herbs.

makes 1 loaf

2½ cups (600 mL) warm water 2 packets (14 g) active dry yeast ½ cup sugar 8 cups (1 kg) all-purpose flour or bread flour plus additional for kneading 1 Tbs fine salt ½ cup (120 mL) extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil for topping 1 Tbs fresh rosemary or dry Italian seasoning Coarse sea salt for sprinkling 1. Combine the warm water, yeast, and sugar in a small bowl. Put the bowl in a warm place until the yeast is foamy and aromatic, at least 10 minutes. 2. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, salt, ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil, and yeast mixture on low speed. 3. Once the dough has come together, continue to knead for about 7-8 minutes on a low until it becomes smooth and soft to the touch.

4. Transfer the dough to a clean, lightly floured surface then knead it by hand 3 or 4 times, sprinkling with flour if still sticky. 5. Shape into a ball, place in a greased mixing bowl, and brush dough with olive oil. Cover with plastic wrap and put it in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 30 minutes. 6. Coat a baking sheet with olive oil and begin pressing dough out to fit the size of the pan, turning the dough over to coat the other side. Stretch the dough to fit the pan, using your fingertips to create dimples throughout the surface. 7. Let dough rest in a warm place until it has doubled in size, about 30 minutes. While the dough is rising a second time, preheat the oven to 400º F. 8. Sprinkle the top of the focaccia with some coarse sea salt, fresh chopped rosemary, or Italian seasoning, and lightly drizzle olive oil on top. Bake the dough until the top of the loaf is golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Remove the focaccia from the oven and let it cool before cutting and serving. March 2022 | Culinaire 13

Artichoke fritto misto with spicy caponata Serves 4

Executive Chef Chris Barton, at Calgary’s Trullo Trattoria, says ingredients influence much of what he cooks. “I don’t always know what I would like to make until I see the product and then determine how I will cook and prepare them,” he says. So, when it comes to Italian cuisine, Barton loves the simplicity of preparation. “Many dishes contain only 3 or 4 ingredients, and everything must be perfect to achieve the correct results.” A graduate of SAIT’s Professional Culinary Program, Barton also has his Diploma from ESCF Ferrandi in Paris, France. He loves artichokes, and when it comes to using them in dishes, Barton credits his French education and experience. “It taught me how much work actually goes into preparing them, but how delightful they can be when eaten.” While fresh artichokes are best, Barton explains, “It can be difficult to find decent fresh ones, and they can be a little tricky to prepare if you have no experience with them.” In this case, jarred or tinned work just as well. 14 Culinaire | March 2022

Caponata

1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil 1 large onion, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup fresh chilies, diced 1 Tbs fresh chopped parsley ¼ cup whole capers, rinsed ¼ cup pitted green olives, diced 1 can (2½ cups) peeled diced tomatoes 1 large eggplant, peeled and diced 2 tsp granulated sugar 2 Tbs (30 mL) red wine vinegar Fresh basil leaves, whole To taste salt 1. In a large skillet or pan heat the olive oil on medium. Add the onion and celery and let sweat until translucent. Add the garlic, chilies, and parsley, and cook for about 1 minute, then add the capers, olives, and tomatoes and cook for 15-20 minutes. 2. In a separate pan heat a decent amount of oil and fry the eggplant in 2 batches until golden. Remove the eggplant with a slotted spoon and place on paper towel to absorb excess oil.

3. Add eggplant to the tomato mixture along with sugar and vinegar and cook for about 5 more minutes. Remove from heat and add basil leaves while the mixture is cooling. Remove the basil leaves once it lowers to room temperature. Season with salt to taste and serve.

Artichoke Frito Misto

4 cups (1 L) canola oil 1 large can (400 mL) marinated artichoke hearts, drained and cut into sixths 6 egg whites 1-2 Tbs (15-30 mL) cold water ¼ cup cornstarch 2 cups all-purpose flour 1. Heat a large pot with the litre of oil up to 350º–375º F. 2. Set up to dredge your artichokes using 3 different bowls: one with cornstarch, one with egg whites whisked with cold water, and one with flour. 3. Dust artichokes in cornstarch first, then dip in egg whites and finally into the all-purpose flour. Shake off the excess flour and fry in batches in the oil for about 2 minutes. Place on a tray with some paper towel and season with salt immediately. Serve warm with caponata.

Edmonton’s Panini’s Italian Cucina is a family affair. Started by chef and co-owner Robert Caruso, his father, Roberto, and his brothers Tony and Jamie, much of what is created reflects how Caruso and his family ate at home while he was growing up. “In the early days of the business, we put a lot of time and effort into researching traditional methods and techniques, as well as developing systems to produce classic dishes in a commercial kitchen,” Caruso explains. Inspired by innovation, Caruso enjoys putting his own twist on tradition. “I love exploring what I can do to bend a dish into something that may surprise a guest and treat them to an experience they may not get anywhere else.” “To be a great Italian cook is simply to know, recognize, and understand the quality of a basic ingredient.” Arborio rice will create the best risotto, along with trusting the process. “The method isn’t difficult, but you cannot set and forget risotto,” he says. “You must be there to stir, but I promise the result will be second to none.”

Risotto Milanese Serves 2-3

½ onion, diced 1 Tbs (15 mL) extra virgin olive oil 8 Tbs unsalted butter, divided 1½ cups (300 g) Arborio rice ½ cup (125 mL) dry white wine 6 cups (1½ L) chicken broth 20 saffron threads ¾ cup (70 g) grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano To taste salt and pepper 1. In a saucepan that’s large enough to hold the rice and then some, heat olive oil and 2 Tbs butter. Add onion and sauté on medium heat until the onion becomes fragrant and translucent. 2. Stir in the rice and toast for about three minutes, then add wine to deglaze the pan. 3. Add two cups of chicken broth and

saffron. The saffron will give the risotto a wonderful vibrant yellow colour. 4. Keep the flame on high until the rice comes to a simmer and maintain it. 5. Let the risotto reduce and add your cups of broth one at a time, stirring each time until almost absorbed, and the risotto is al dente with the consistency that you prefer. Make sure you are stirring often, which does two things: makes for a creamy risotto and keeps the bottom from burning. 6. When you are happy with the texture and consistency of your risotto add in the remainder of your butter and ParmigianoReggiano. Season with salt and black pepper.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. March 2022 | Culinaire 15

Wall of Bakers FEATURES DAVID ROUSSEAU BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC

avid Rousseau’s path to the world of pastry has been an unconventional one. Originally from Brittany, a region in northwest France known for its medieval walls, Rousseau roamed the globe working in adventure travel before establishing both himself and his patisserie, Ollia Macarons & Tea, nearly eight years ago in Calgary. Recently, his past and present collided when he was presented with an opportunity to partake in a new adventure as a judge on Wall of Bakers, a spin-off of Food Network Canada’s successful competition series Wall of Chefs. Wall of Bakers features amateur bakers from across Canada, and 24 renowned Canadian chefs who appear as judges on the Wall, with 12 featured each episode. The skill and nerves of Canada’s home bakers are tested as they battle in the Wall of Bakers kitchen, under the towering shadow of the country’s best pastry chefs. “When you look at the judges on the show it’s a very interesting mix of famous, iconic people from the culinary

16 Culinaire | March 2022

world, as well as up-and-coming businesses from the four corners of Canada,” says Rousseau. “I believe the profile of Ollia was appealing as an up-and-coming business and I got convinced to do the show. I thought it would be a fun adventure.” As a “feel-good Canadian baking show”, Rousseau says joining as a judge was a perfect fit given his reasons for starting Ollia. “Early on we created an atmosphere that was supportive, where people would thrive.” Over the years Rousseau and his team have focused on not only building the business, but also on building community. “When you have a business you have a voice that is followed, and you can do good with this voice. You can have a positive impact in the community. So we have been using Ollia for a force of good in the community by supporting The Leftovers Foundation, as well as LGBTQ+ and environmental associations around town.” In each episode of Wall of Bakers, four amateur bakers

Photos Courtesy Food Network Canada

face-off in three rounds of sweet competition. In the first round, they prepare the desserts that have made them famous at home, their crowd-pleasers. In the second round, they are challenged to think on the fly to create a dessert using two ingredients that are staples in the home pantry of one of the chefs on the Wall. In the final round, the last two home bakers are inspired by another chef’s signature dessert to make their own bakery-worthy creation. Through all three challenges, the Wall is watching with the chefs offering commentary and expertise while tasting, judging, and eliminating one home baker in every round. After a final deliberation, the last home baker standing wins the $10,000 cash prize. “The interesting part of the show is we get to talk quite a bit with the other judges and discuss what is being made in front of us,” says Rousseau. “And the feedback we give is constructive and positive.” He adds that the intent of the show is not to discourage but to inspire the community of home bakers. “We’ve had a lot of time during COVID to pursue hobbies and passions, and a lot of people have been baking and cooking because maybe they didn’t have the time before, but we do now,” he laughs. “I think the show is going to inspire people that they can do it too or do it better. It’s the domino effect of the show.”

Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.

• Wall of Bakers Season 1 airs Mondays at 10:00 pm ET/PT beginning March 28 on Food Network Canada. • There are ten one-hour episodes.

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The Alchemy of

Pesto Alla Genovese STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

id you ever think that a simple mixture of garlic, pine nuts, basil, olive oil, hard cheese, and a pinch of salt, ground together in a mortar and pestle, can have you on your knees thanking Mother Nature for the blessing of her bounty? Behind her though, are the Italians (specifically from the Genoa region), that are the geniuses that put these ingredients together to create the mesmerizing concoction - pesto alla genovese. The root word of pesto is “pestare” meaning to pound or crush. The traditional way to make pesto is revered, and for good reason. The mortar holds the ingredients and creates a surface for the grinding motion of the pestle. The weight of the pestle plus the pounding coax the essence from the ingredients.

18 Culinaire | March 2022

Pine nuts bind together with the garlic with the help of a pinch of salt. Fresh basil leaves are added along with a drizzle of olive oil and vigorously worked into a paste. Then the hard cheese is stirred in at the end, rounding out the flavours. Pine nuts create a velvety base. Garlic shouldn’t be too spicy as it will overpower the other ingredients. The freshest basil leaves should be used, with no stems. The olive oil should be mild enough to allow the basil to remain the front-runner but distinct enough to add flavour. You can’t go wrong with Parmesan or Pecorino to inject a luscious mouth feel. Everything pounded together tastes fresh and vibrant - alive even. The colour - bright green. The texture - smooth with small, delicate pieces of ingredients dotted throughout the sauce. Where does tradition part ways with

ease and modernism? Lemons weren’t traditionally part of the pesto recipe. Does it need it? Not really. However, they do add another bright, delicious layer to the flavour profile. What other updates to the traditional pesto alla genovese exist? Although pine nuts are the classic nut, walnuts can stand in with ease. Macadamia, cashew, and almonds will also make a great substitution. If you are not a fan of nuts, then try pumpkin seeds. Basil can be changed out completely or go half and half with almost any green leaf or herb you can find. No matter what green, nut or seed you use, pesto can withstand the pounding. You don’t even need cheese if dairy is off the menu. While it doesn’t take long to make pesto with a mortar and pestle, it is extremely quick to whip up in a food

processor. The purists would scoff at using such a method; however, a food processor still makes an amazing pesto. Whether you enjoy the smallest bits for texture or pureed to a velvety consistency. It’s all good. Very good.

Using this basic recipe as your guide to all things pesto allows you to substitute many different kinds of greens and nuts or seeds to create unique and flavourful combinations depending on your preferences, time of year and what you have in your fridge and pantry.

Traditional Pesto Alla Genovese

Some lovely options are: For winter: kale, rapini, swiss chard, collard greens For spring: spinach, parsley, cilantro Early summer: delicate tender garlic scape shoots Summer: stock up on fresh, vibrant basil and arugula Fall: dandelion, beet greens

Makes 1½ cups

½ cup pine nuts 1½ cloves garlic, green centre removed 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice 2 cups basil leaves ¼ cup + 2 Tbs (90 mL) olive oil To taste sea salt ½ cup Parmesan, Pecorino, or other hard cheese 1. Gently toast pine nuts in a small sauté pan for a few minutes. 2. In your food processor, add the garlic, lemon juice and the pine nuts. Give it a few pulses to break everything up. 3. Add the basil leaves and pulse 5 seconds. 4. Add the olive oil and a pinch of salt, and pulse until everything comes together into a nice paste. Add more olive oil as needed to reach the pastelike consistency. 5. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. 6. Finely grate cheese and stir to incorporate into your pesto or give it another couple of pulses in your food processor.

Pesto is extremely versatile. I’m not sure if there is anything that doesn’t go well with pesto. You can add it to fish, chicken, steak, potato, pasta, rice, sandwiches, pizza, eggs, bake into bread, use it as a salad dressing, veggie dip, pork chops, and garnish for soup. In case you are still unsure of what to make your pesto with or how to use it, you have permission to try it with anything and everything. You really can’t go wrong with just about any combination you choose. Pesto can be stored in the fridge for about a week and frozen for 3 to 6 months. Make any meal better with a dollop of pesto on top.

Note: If you would like to use the pesto as a dressing then thin it out with the addition of more olive oil.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

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Calgary Italian Bakery:

60 Years of Local Daily Bread BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Thick Noodles

s local food movements continue to grow and become a priority for consumers, it’s important to recognize that even in a province as young as Alberta, “eat local” isn’t purely an invention of the social media age. Local independent businesses have always existed here and plenty of our province’s early community builders are still going strong, even if they don’t always get the same fanfare as new and flashy restaurants and food producers. The Calgary Italian Bakery is one of those old school stalwarts that was practicing an “eat local” philosophy long before it was cool. Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, the bakery has been putting wholesome bread and buns on

20 Culinaire | March 2022

tables in Southern Alberta since 1962. Like many small or medium-sized businesses that have been in operation for over a half-century, Calgary Italian Bakery is a family-run affair that is now overseen by the second generation of its founding family. The bakery was first established by the late Luigi and Myrl Bontorin — Mrs. Bontorin was a born and raised Calgarian while her husband immigrated to the city in the 1950s. Their son Louis, who now runs the business with his brother David, remembers playing hide and seek with his siblings among industrial-sized bags of flour and being put to work bagging buns as soon as he was old enough to count to 12. The Bontorins didn’t start their

business to make a gourmet or artisanal product — back in the ‘60s Europeanstyle baking wasn’t fashionable like it is now — but simply wanted to make nourishing bread and buns that don’t break the bank. “We consider ourselves a blue-collar bakery,” says Louis Bontorin. “There have been some bakeries that have done a fantastic job differentiating themselves, and being that high end and addressing that market. We're that local option for something more affordable. And we're the option that has been here for 60 years.” Over the years the Bontorins have grown their bakery into a 40,000-square foot facility that is able to produce about 3,000 loaves or 1,500 dozen buns an hour,

A family business

which puts it in the “medium” category of commercial bakeries, making Calgary Italian Bakery a well-recognized local presence while still giving it more of a community feel than some of its large national competitors. Louis says that his family has seen many bread trends come and go over the years, with tastes migrating from white to whole wheat bread, and the bakery experimenting with (and then abandoning) gluten-free breads. The current line-up is a nice mix of Italian and North American-style breads (both white

Italian Bakery has to an artisanal product, they’re still built on the same principals of simplicity and affordability as the rest of the bakery’s goods. Louis says that keeping things relatively no-frills (while also being willing to change with the times) has done well for Calgary Italian Bakery. The bulk of the bakery’s business comes from restaurant and food service clients — it even has products named for clients like Spolumbo’s Tony Spoletini, who requested a certain length of bun for his meat shop’s sandwiches, which means

“We’re here because it's something that we are very passionate about,” Louis says. “We believe in simple ingredients. We believe in my parents’ vision to provide good bread to the masses to allow Calgarians to have an option beyond some of the big guys. The big guys are great, but they're not local. They're not part of the community.”

"Eat local" isn’t purely an invention of the social media age and whole wheat), whole grain loaves, and good old hamburger and hotdog buns, as well as dinner rolls and a few specialty items. The bakery is also one of the rare Alberta-based manufacturers of English muffins, which have been a successful product for the brand. A few years ago, the bakery also launched its La Famiglia line, which is a specialty line of loaves designed to pay homage to the Bontorin family, with an old photo of Luigi and Myrl on the package. Those come in more traditional back-to-basics varieties like sunflower flax, oat bran, and whole wheat, and while they’re the closest thing that Calgary

that many food lovers have enjoyed Calgary Italian Bakery’s wares without even knowing it. Calgary Italian Bakery has certainly been tested over the last two years. Restaurant shutdowns over the course of the pandemic have affected sales, but the Bontorins are still doing what they’ve always done, which is feeding Albertans. In addition to restaurant partners like Peppino, Heritage Park, and Red’s Diner, the bread and buns are also available at Costco, Co-op, and some Walmart stores as well as the company’s deli and retail store in Calgary’s Manchester Industrial district.

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. March 2022 | Culinaire 21

Coffee,

Searching for coffee in Italy

- Head to the busiest cafe — likely what the locals call “un bar” — you can find. “If it’s the busiest, you know it’s the best,” says Peter Izzo, Cappuccino King’s vice president. “The bustling one, where people are lined up — that’s where you want to be.” - Remember that a cappuccino is a breakfast coffee, not one served after about 11 am, unless you’re a tourist. - You don’t have to tip, but take your receipt when you pay. It’s against the law to leave it behind. - Don’t expect to find a local roaster. Independent microroasters, old and new, are in Italy, but aren’t as common as, say, in Calgary or Edmonton or other major Canadian cities. Most places use beans from major brands such as Illy, Kimbo and Lavazza. - Arabica beans are the most common, but you’ll find arabicarobusta blends, especially as you travel south. Aficionados say coffee made with arabica beans taste better (smoother, sweeter and more chocolate-y) but robusta beans have more caffeine and make a better crema, the creamyfroth that forms on top of a freshly pulled espresso.

Cappuccino King’s, Peter Izzo

22 Culinaire | March 2022

the Italian Way BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER

appuccino King’s Peter Izzo often gets people coming into his northeast Calgary showroom, searching for secrets. They’ve recently returned from Italy, and they can’t stop talking about the incredible coffee they enjoyed every morning. “I’ll contradict them. It was probably a lousy cup of coffee and you paid too much for it,” he says with a laugh. “But you were sitting in the middle of a piazza that’s a couple thousand years old. You had your big sunglasses on, and you were feeling like Sophia Loren. Of course it was sensational.” Still, anyone that has enjoyed an espresso or a cappuccino in Italy, or had good Italian coffee here, would likely argue that as a country no one quite knows and appreciates coffee quite like an Italian. You see, coffee in Italy has deep

roots. In the 1500s, long before Italy was unified into the country we know now, Venetian traders were importing beans from Ethiopia, destined for coffeehouses throughout Europe. One of the world’s oldest coffee shops, Caffe Greco in Rome, has been open since 1760, the start of the Industrial Revolution. The legendary literary figure Johanne Wolfgang von Goethe drank coffee there, as did Casanova, and the poet Lord Byron. Just this year, the Italian government announced a bid to have Italian espresso added to UNESCO’s immaterial heritage list. (The decision was to be made public around press time, in spring 2022.) “Coffee is much more than a simple drink in Italy," Gian Marco Centinaio, the government’s Agriculture Undersecretary told media at the time. "It is an authentic

ritual; it is an integral part of the national identity and an expression of our sociality that distinguishes us around the world.” The Western Canadian love affair with Italian coffee has a considerably shorter history. Izzo’s father, Vince Izzo, moved to Canada in 1968 and was underwhelmed by what he found. He teamed up with fellow Italians in Ontario, who were importing good beans from home, and then he began importing equipment from his favourite European manufacturers. Cappuccino King was born and, 50 years later, is still a must for anyone wanting to learn how to make great Italian coffee in Alberta. Of course, some of us just want someone else make it for us. That’s where people like Renato Marfoglia come into the picture. Born to Italian parents in Montreal, Marfoglia visited the Spinelli Bar Italian at the Italian Centre Shop in Edmonton a few years ago, and, after finding out that a location was opening in Calgary, applied. Now the cafe team lead, he pulls shots, day after day, for local fans. (The bar makes roughly 300 or so espresso drinks each day.) “The secret to a great coffee is love,” he says. Well, that and careful preparation, daily calibration of the shop’s beautiful La Marzocca espresso machine and, of course, good beans. “Fresh-ground beans are very important,” he says. “We use Kimbo Extra Cream Espresso coffee beans; the Italian Centre Shop’s five locations sell the most Kimbo coffee in North America!” A teenager when he tried his first coffee — made by his mom and enjoyed

A short guide to ordering coffee like an Italian

Renato Marfoglia

with lots of sugar — Marfoglia now drinks it straight-up. “You can taste the coffee better that way,” he says. He says that in Italy, coffee is about getting together with others. “It’s always combined with gathering. Whenever you’re having coffee, you’re never alone.” That’s a sentiment that Izzo echoes. “In North America, you have your laptop in front of you and your coffee beside you,” says Izzo, who grew up spending his summers with family in Abruzzo. “But in Italy, it’s about taking a pause. You meet your colleagues or your friends. You talk about your day, and you get caught up. It’s about appreciating the moment, you know?” Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. If she’s not drinking wine, she's probably drinking coffee. Visit drinkwithme.com.

- Affogato — Vanilla gelato, with a shot of espresso poured over it. - Un caffe — a glorious little cup of espresso, usually served with a glass of lukewarm water on the side. - Caffe alla nocciola — An espresso combined with a rich hazelnut cream, typically found only in Naples. - Caffe corretto — Literally translated as a “corrected coffee,” an espresso with a shot of grappa (Italy’s famous grape spirit) added to it. - Caffe macchiato — An Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based espresso “stained” with a wee writer and editor whose work has appeared in bit of milk. newspapers and magazines around the world. If she’s not drinking wine, she's probably drink- Cappuccino — An espresso ing coffee. Visit drinkwithme.com. with steamed milk and foam, cappuccino is named after the brown robes of Capuchin monks. In Italy, the drink is smaller than we typically get in Canada; average cup size is about 180 mL. - Decaffeinato — Decaffeinated coffee, in case you didn’t guess that on your own. - Shakerato — Coffee shaken with ice and usually, sugar.

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A Drink Precedes a Story BY TOM FIRTH

any years ago in my youth, I really hated whisky. Shocking, I know, but as I gradually came around to appreciating this noble spirit, it was the Irish examples that first captivated my attention as they were often lighter, and in many ways smoother than other expressions, but at the same time they were often less expensive than Scotch, and most importantly to me at the time – almost never peated. For a long time, they were generally thought to be more or less inferior to Scotch examples in the international market. Most were distilled under only a single roof or two in the entire country, and as a rule most were made in continuous stills as opposed to the craft or scarce nature of whiskies from

Scotland and their pot stills with deeper, more complex flavours. According to Andrew Ferguson, internationally acclaimed whisky expert and owner of the Kensington Wine Market in Calgary, “The stage is set for an Irish whiskey renaissance in the years ahead. With around 40 producers making whiskey in Ireland today, many are producing innovative and compelling whiskies which are already competing on the world stage!” In more recent years of Irish whiskey production (in Ireland – it has the “e”) there has been a wild resurgence of distilleries making all manner of interesting and complex spirits and experimenting with various adjuncts, barrel finishing, and of course terroirdriven expressions.

Writer’s Tears Copper Pot Irish Whiskey Ireland Sometimes, I feel like I can relate to this whiskey a little more than others, but there are certainly no tears when it comes to this dram. Bright and citrus-driven on the nose with deep spicy aromas on the palate, it’s toasty, it’s creamy, and above all - delicious with a mild nuttiness and subtle candied fruit character. A fine example of Irish whiskey and extremely well-priced. CSPC +742019 $55-59

Kilbeggan Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Ireland Brand new to me, it’s always wonderful to see another pot still distillation in Irish whiskey. A bit more robust on the nose and on the palate, Kilbeggan also includes oat in the mash which accentuates the cereal character. But what really sets it apart is the spice and floral characters, and the spiciness of the finish, closing on a very enjoyable dried cocoa note. Sure to impress any Scotch enthusiast as well. CSPC +827054 $64-70

Hinch 10 Year Old Sherry Cask Finish Irish Whiskey, Ireland It’s always great to see an Irish whiskey with an age statement, but also with those sherry casks which typically lend a little sweetness to the profile. Toffee and honey notes with lots of cereal character on the nose, but things really shine on the palate with great complexity and a rich texture that just rolls around in the mouth. Bottled at 43 percent ABV, it may be best without a splash of water – but follow your heart. CSPC +826652 $85-90

Tyrconnell Single Malt Double Distilled Irish Whiskey, Ireland A very easy whiskey to enjoy from start to finish, showing off the right amounts of vanilla bean, mild salinity, lemon drop, and oomph on the palate. Bottled at 43 percent, it runs a little hot ( just like the Tyrconnell at its famous race) but a splash of water brings out more of the dried apple fruits and a little more of the spice. Heck of a buy too and a good bottle to have on hand. CSPC +803393 $50-55

24 Culinaire | March 2022

Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey Ireland So named for the additional charring of the casks used, Black Barrel is a little darker in the glass than most others, but on the nose the approach is very much that of smoky, bourbon characters with abundant toffee and dark caramel. On the palate there is a lot going on, but it’s a very smooth approach with sweeter fudge-like flavours and an almost-wild honey finish. Very smooth, very tasty, and good both neat and in mixed drinks. CSPC +750014 $60-65

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The ins and outs of stuffed pasta:

A how to-guide for making your own ravioli, tortellini, and more

BYMALLORY MALLORYFRAYN FRAYN BY

hile the prospect of preparing fresh, stuffed pasta may sound quite the endeavour, the reality is it’s shockingly easy to make and only requires a bit of elbow grease and patience as you learn the ropes. It’s also a fun kitchen project for recruiting the help of friends, family, and kids alike. This how-to guide will break down the three basic elements of any stuffed pasta: the dough, the filling, and the shape, to get you on your way. Just put on that Andrea Bocelli playlist and you’re all set!

The Dough

At its most basic, pasta dough can be made of just flour, water, and salt. Usually, recipes call for the addition of eggs (some combination of whole eggs and yolks) to add richness to the dough, helping to make it more tender, while also contributing to a golden yellow colour. While you can use all-purpose flour in a pinch, try to get your hands on some 00 flour, which is higher in protein and finer in texture, yielding a silkier finished product. The “recipe” for making fresh pasta is so simple that it’s more of a formula or process than it is an exact recipe. For a standard batch, you’ll need about 2 cups of flour (280 g if you’re weighing), 2 whole eggs, 2 egg yolks, and a pinch of salt. Clear your counter or work in a large bowl, add in the flour and salt and make a well in the middle. This is where all the wet ingredients will go. Add in your eggs and egg yolks, and use a fork to whisk the eggs in the centre of the well. Once the eggs are broken up, gradually start to whisk in the flour, incorporating more and more of it into the eggs. Eventually you are going to want to switch from the fork to your hands, and begin kneading the dough together. Water will toughen the dough, so only 26 Culinaire | January/February 2022

add it if the mass you have at this point is too dry to hold together. It can be helpful to use a spray bottle to do this so you’re only adding as little water as possible. Knead for 10 to 15 minutes until the dough becomes smooth and supple. At this point, rest the dough for at least 30 minutes before rolling it out. If you want to get your mise en place down ahead of time, you can make it the day before and rest it in the fridge overnight. Just make sure it’s wrapped well with cling film so that it doesn’t dry out. While this base recipe is tried and true, you can always add in other flavourings to spice it up. The addition of even the smallest amount of squid ink yields a striking, jet-black pasta ( just beware, it will also temporarily dye your hands). Herb purées or even beet juice can be mixed into the dough for green or pink pasta, respectively. When it‘s time to roll out the dough, you might want to invest in a pasta machine if you don’t have one already.

A standard hand crank model will do the trick, but these days there are also attachments you can buy for your stand mixer that may be more your speed. The beauty of making filled pastas is that you only have to roll out your dough into large sheets (rather than then taking those sheets and cutting them into finer strands). Make sure to start with the machine on a wider setting as you begin to feed the dough through, working in small chunks (don’t try to feed in the entire dough ball all at once). After this first pass, you can turn the setting finer with each pass. Depending on the machine, you likely won’t have to take it down to the finest setting, but stopping at the second or third finest should do the trick.

The Filling

The brilliance of filled pasta is that at the end of the day, you can fill it with pretty much whatever you want.

Standards could include, but are not limited to, ricotta cheese laden with spinach, pecorino, and plenty of black pepper, roasted squash puree with thyme and maple syrup, or ground beef with tomato paste and rosemary. For this article, I’ll let you get creative in coming up with the combination of your choice, and will focus on highlighting some of the dos and do not’s, so you avoid ending up with a countertop full of raw pasta and messy filling. First, you don’t want a filling that is too wet otherwise it will seep out and make the pasta impossible to seal. Second, you don’t want a filling that is hot, otherwise the pasta will start to disintegrate and be difficult to work with. If your filling requires cooking to prepare it, like a meat sauce, make it ahead of time and thoroughly chill it in the fridge before stuffing. It may even be wise to pop your filling in the freezer to harden it to the point where you can use an ice cream scoop or melon baller to plop rounds of it onto your sheets of pasta. If the filling is less chunky and more of a puree, using a piping bag to distribute it is usually the easiest way. If you’re especially ambitious, you can also think about incorporating fillings within fillings. A classic example of this is egg yolk raviolo. Effectively a large, palmsized ravioli, it is made by creating a circular border of ricotta or mascarpone cheese, and then nestling an egg yolk in the centre, before gently sealing another layer of fresh pasta on top.

The Shape

Of all the stuffed pastas, ravioli is by far the easiest and one that I would recommend as a starting point if you’ve never tried your hand at stuffed pastas before. The basic premise is that you lay down a sheet of fresh pasta and dollop small, circular portions of your filling evenly along the sheet, leaving enough space between dollops to be able to cut them into individual ravioli. After doing this, use a pastry brush to dab water or egg yolk around the border of the filling. This will help the bottom and top layers of pasta stick to each other. Once this is complete, you can drape the top layer of pasta over the filling, working from one end of the sheet to the other to work out any air bubbles that may form between the filling and pasta (this can become problematic when boiling them). Once everything is sealed, you can then

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take a ring mold and cut out the individual ravioli. Alternately, you can cut square ravioli with a knife or pasta cutter, which wastes less dough. After you’ve perfected your ravioli, you may want to try your hand at agnolotti or tortellini. Agnolotti are tubular bites that are made from piping a single dashed line of filling lengthwise down your sheet of pasta. You then fold the sheet over on itself to close the tube, and cut through the unfilled dashes to separate the pasta into individual units. Some could argue that this method is even easier than ravioli. In contrast, tortellini are much more fiddly, but produce a beautiful finished product. They are made by cutting your larger sheet of pasta into individual squares and dolloping filling in the lower quadrant close to one of the points but leaving enough room for a border. Take the square, folding it diagonally, sealing the pasta and bringing the two points of what is now a triangle together. It should look like a bishop’s hat (albeit much tastier). Whatever shape you try your hand at, be sure to make plenty, as they freeze well. After all, if you’re going to take the time to make stuffed pasta from scratch, there better be leftovers. They’ll serve as a pleasant surprise on a busy night after work when you find them tucked away in the bottom of your freezer! Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

March Spirits W

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

E HAVE WHISKY ON OUR MINDS WITH FOUR SCOTCH WHISKIES to share, and most rather new to our market. But at the same time, we have a unique, notable, and locally made gin from Alberta, and a remarkable, limited-edition cognac to help celebrate the Year of the Tiger. So in the spirit of who really knows what March will bring – from the weather to the world.

Anohka Gin, Alberta Anohka (Sanskrit for ‘rare’) is a new distillery just 20 minutes west of Edmonton, and it’s unique. Gurpreet Ranu’s family has been farming for generations, so they’re growing their own grain and using only natural local ingredients. Their London-style Tempest Dry Gin has more than 10 times the botanicals of a typical gin, and the oils from them make it translucent when chilled. It’s delicious: citrus, juniper, and cardamom forward – and perfect with a splash of tonic. CSPC +859308 $54-58 Highland Park Cask Strength No. 2 Orkney, Scotland The wild and woolly, windy Orkney islands are closer to Oslo than they are to London – and this is the home of Highland Park since 1798. Now their Cask Strength Release No. 2 has arrived on our shores, and it has a beautiful sweet and spicy nose of rose, pepper, and pear that follows through to the palate with a hint of honey and licorice – and of course the toasty oak and light smoky peat too. You’ll need to find your level with a few drops of water as it’s 63.9 percent ABV, and I suspect you’ll really enjoy finding that level! CSPC +1186224 $135-140 Lindores MCDXCIV Single Malt Whisky Scotland The commemorative first release of Lindores Single Malt bears the date 1494, which is when the first recorded distillation in Scotland took place at the Lindores Abbey. It might be something in the water, or that the Lindores Distillery also wins competitions for its newmake spirit, but look for abundant citrus, dried apricot, pepper spices, almond and apple. Very palatable in the mouth with a tiny bit of water, and darn refreshing too. CSPC +858745 $78-84 28 Culinaire | March 2022

Macallan “The Harmony Collection” Rich Cacao Single Malt Whisky, Scotland Something new under the “whisky sun”? The Harmony Collection at Macallan is trying a few different things, including this one - drawing inspiration from cacao. Using cask and batch selections chosen for their cacao characters, the resulting whisky is rife with dates, leather upholstery, antique desk drawers, and yes, loads of dark, bitter chocolate-type characters. On the palate it’s rather smooth and graceful with a fine balance of cacao and whisky fruits - intriguing and tasty too. CSPC +1186779 $215-240 Talisker 10 Year Old Single Malt Whisky Isle of Skye, Scotland Talisker used to be marketed as part of the “Classic Malts of Scotland.” To be fair, they were all owned by the same company, but on the other hand these classic malts were very much paragons of the broader styles of different malt whiskies. A fine expression of an island malt with abundant salinity and some smoky, slightly oily peat notes. Not too peaty by most measures, its citrus and cereal characters still shine through. Bottled at nearly 46 percent, water is not required for best enjoyment. CSPC +249680 $100-110 Hennessy X.O, France We love extravagant and creative packaging for special occasions, and Hennessy has it down to a fine art. To celebrate the Year of the Tiger, the cognac house collaborated with renowned artist Zhang Enli for this vibrant, special edition Hennessy X.O package (which comes with red envelopes too!). One for art lovers and cognac enthusiasts, X.O is the original 'extra-old' cognac - a rich and complex blend of 100 eaux-de-vie, with notes of plums and orange peel, toffee and dark chocolate, and a long, smooth finish. CSPC +727452 around $325-$340

POINTS

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MASIANCO

A “Supervenetian” with great style, and a worthy “brother” to the famous red wine, Campofiorin. Enjoy with creamy sauces, chicken and turkey, fish dishes, and soft cheeses.

CAMPOFIORIN

An exceptionally versatile wine: full bodied, smooth, and velvety. Pair with meat or mushroom pasta dishes, grilled or roast red meat, and game. Ideal with well-aged cheeses.

Masi does not use any animal by-products or allergy-causing products in the production of their wines.

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STEP BY STEP

Flourless Chocolate and Mint Crater Cake BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

30 Culinaire | March 2022

arch can be a month that drags and drags, as we wait with bated breath for spring to (finally) arrive, and for better things to come. To ease this ever-long month I bake cake, and this one is generous in flavour and a showstopper to boot. This flourless number is a delicious example of just how eggs work their magic in baked goods. There is nothing else to make this chocolate cake rise except for the eggs. Usually there is baking soda or powder stirred into flour and ta-da, you have cake. But, in this case none of those ingredients exist. Instead, half a dozen egg yolks and granulated sugar are beaten together into a thick, creamy ribbon. Then the glorious combination of melted dark chocolate and butter is carefully beaten in. To this, I added some Crème de Menthe, just a couple of tablespoons, as I quite like the chocolate/mint combo, but honestly any liqueur will do. Grand Marnier, Frangelico, Amaretto are all good choices. No booze? No problem. Just add a teaspoon of vanilla. The egg whites are beaten until they’re voluminous and light, then carefully folded into the chocolate mixture. That’s it for the batter. It bakes to lofty heights in a springform pan, but once removed, it will gradually collapse into a crater, complete with characteristic cracks. This is normal, and it’s a good thing. You may fight all the urges to pry apart the ring of the pan and cut off a slice while it is warm. Don’t

do that. The cake will tear apart very easily. Let it cool completely - heck, even overnight if you can handle it, then slice a wedge for you and your loved ones. There is a tantalizing richness here - the cake almost melts in your mouth. You can prepare the cake the day ahead, or at least a few hours before you want to eat. While you don’t have to be eating gluten-free to enjoy a wedge of this chocolate heaven, it will get you ample bonus points when serving it to someone who does. Serve with a healthy dollop of whipped cream and some fresh berries. If you’re into the dessert for breakfast thing, this chocolate concoction is quite agreeable with good, strong coffee.

Flourless Chocolate and Mint Crater Cake Serves 8-10

1 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder 300 g dark chocolate (70% cocoa) chopped into chunks ½ cup salted butter, cubed 6 large eggs, separated 1 cup granulated sugar, divided 2 Tbs (30 mL) Crème de Menthe liqueur For serving: Icing sugar whipped cream fresh berries mint leaves 1. Place a rack in the centre of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375º F. 2. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan. Dust with the cocoa powder. 3. Place the chocolate and butter in a medium saucepan and melt over low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for a few minutes until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat. 4. Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed, gradually adding ¾ cup of granulated sugar. Continue beating until the yolks are pale yellow and thick, about 2 minutes. 5. On low speed, gradually add the chocolate/butter mixture until just

combined, scraping down the bowl as needed. Add the Crème de menthe and beat until combined. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. 6. Wash and dry the bowl of the stand mixer. Add the egg whites to the bowl and attach the whisk attachment to the mixer. Beat on high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form, another minute or so. Use a rubber spatula to gently fold the whites into the chocolate mixture. You don’t want any white streaks remaining. 7. Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan, smoothing the top. Bake the cake for 15 minutes, then turn the oven temperature to 350º F. Bake for another 15 minutes. Turn the oven temperature down again to 250º F and bake for another 15-20 minutes or until a firm crust forms on top and the cake jiggles slightly to the touch. Turn off the oven and leave the cake inside. Prop the oven door open with a wooden spoon and let the cake cool for 20 minutes. 8. Transfer the cake to a wire rack and

We’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus for you to enjoy an evening of good food where you don’t have to do the washing up afterwards. Your safety is still a priority at our events, and we have a clean slate from all our dinners last year and in 2020. Our promise is that we’ll only offer events where you can relax and enjoy an evening out, seated only with the people you want to be with. Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and email if you’d like to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. They do sell out rather quickly!

32 Culinaire | March 2022

let cool on the counter. The cake will collapse and crack as it cools. After 45 minutes, gently run a knife around the edge of the pan before releasing it from its springform sides. Cover and refrigerate the cake for a few hours before serving. Slice with a sharp knife.

Dust with icing sugar and serve with whipped cream and fresh berries.

Vine & Dine Pairing Dinners Trullo Trattoria Wednesday March 16, Thursday March 24, and Tuesday March 29 We're excited for our first Vine & Dine evenings at the new modern Italian restaurant, Trullo Trattoria. We all love Purlieu Bistro - every one of our evenings there has sold out - and Trullo is their new sister restaurant!

One-Off St. George’s Day Celebration A1 Café and Wine Bar Sunday April 24 Don’t miss this opportunity to share in this fun and very delicious evening, and enjoy a sparkling reception followed by a fivecourse meal, paired to complement the flavours of British Chef, James Lawson’s upscale English dishes.

SOLD OUT! One-Off Celebration of Great Big Nature with Brian Keating! Wednesday March 30 International speaker, Brian Keating, is back from his adventures and has hilarious new videos and stories that no one else has heard when we join him for a Corks & Talks evening, with a 6-course pairing meal at Safari Grill. Always such a great night!

Another Opportunity for a Celebration of Great Big Nature with Brian Keating! Wednesday April 27 As our evening on March 30 sold out very quickly with a long waiting list, we’re thrilled to be able to offer a repeat evening in April with Brian’s hilarious new videos and stories, and 6-course pairing meal at Safari Grill.

One-Off Vine & Dine Evening Flower & Wolf Saturday April 9 Flower & Wolf have a new elevated menu, and we can’t wait for our pairing dinner here to enjoy our new menu of beautifully executed, flavourful dishes cooked with love - and ingredients from local farmers.

Menus are added regularly, so check out our paired dinners and email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve yours. We try to cater for all allergies.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

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Italian Liqueurs BY LINDA GARSON

he history of distilling goes right back to the first century and is open to some speculation, but we know how and where it started in Italy from the Compendium Salernitanum of the most important medical school in Europe at the time, the Medical School of Salerno, south-east of Naples. The modern process of distilling wine and infusing it with herbs was practised for medicinal purposes at the school in the 1100s. Known as aqua vitae (the water of life), it was used to sterilize and anaesthetize until after the end of the bubonic plague in the mid-1300s, and documents show that Italian distillers were selling these infused distillations directly to the public to drink as tonics as early as 1378. Over the next four-to-five hundred years, distillers experimented first using local botanicals and later exotic imported spices, producing alcoholic infusions enjoyed by the nobility in the 1800s, and extending to use in cocktails over the following century. Here are some Italian liqueurs available in Alberta, along with some suggestions from Graham Teare, mixologist and manager at Calgary’s Cardinale Restaurant, for how to get the most out of them:

Luxardo Maraschino

The original, created by Girolamo Luxardo in 1821, and still with the bottles hand-plaited in straw as the early days, to protect them from damage in transportation. Each summer, Luxardo harvest their marasca cherries and infuse them in alcohol, along with their leaves and branches, for up to three years before being distilled to produce a clear cherry liqueur. It’s strong at 32 percent ABV, with a lovely hint of dark chocolate on the palate. CSPC +63974 500 mL $23-26 34 Culinaire | March 2022

Maraschino is regularly used in an Aviation cocktail, and Teare suggests a simple cocktail for us to make at home – the ‘Last Word’, with equal parts (¾ oz) gin, green chartreuse, and maraschino, and ½ oz lime juice. Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

Galliano Vanilla

Easily spotted on the top shelf of any bar, Galliano’s tall bottles with tapered sides were inspired by the temples of ancient Rome. While created in Tuscany in 1896, the sweet, yellow, anise flavoured liqueur really shot to fame in the 1970s with the popularity of Harvey Wallbanger cocktails. Galliano Vanilla was created in 1990s as a new vanilla-influenced form of Galliano, and while quite different to the original, it may be the version many of you will associate with the brand. CSPC +741498 375 mL $17-20 Cardinale make a decadent and delightful dessert cocktail with 1/3 oz XO rum, ¾ oz Galliano Vanilla, ½ oz banana liqueur, 1½ oz cream, 8 dashes of chocolate bitters.

Cynar

Moving into the 20th century, the fave of so many bartenders for its versatility and bittersweet flavour, is Cynar, created in 1952 by Angelo Dalle Molle, a Venetian entrepreneur and philanthropist. There are thirteen herbs and plants in this industry standard, with the most distinctive being artichoke leaves, which is where the name comes from, after the botanical name for artichoke ‘Cynar scolymus’. You’ll get citrus aromas on the nose, but the palate is sweeter than you’ll expect, and almost like a Vermouth di Torino. CSPC +766191 1L around $28-30 As a wine-based infusion, Cynar is 16.5 percent ABV, so Teare suggests subbing it out in a Manhattan instead of the whisky, or even for the sweet vermouth. Do try it in a martini too. He makes a cocktail called ‘Beetle Juice’, with Cynar, anejo rum, amaro, beet juice (you can find it now in good supermarkets), lime juice, and mint – and we can vouch for this, it’s really good!

Liquore Strega

An Italian classic, Strega was developed in 1860 by the father and son team, Carmine and Giuseppe Alberti. Italian for ‘witch’, Strega is made in Benevento, 50 K northeast of Naples, where stories of witchcraft date back to the Lombard invasion of 568 AD. Around 70 aromatic herbs are distilled to produce the liqueur including mint, cinnamon, fennel, and juniper, with saffron providing the distinct yellow colour. It’s herbaceous and reminiscent of yellow Chartreuse, but lighter in flavour and body, with a viscous mouthfeel and notes of licorice, mint, basil, and thyme. CSPC +400002 $45-50 At Cardinale, Teare suggests using Strega in your Vesper cocktails instead of Lillet Blanc: Shake or stir together three parts gin with one part vodka and half a measure of Strega.

Nastro d'Oro Finocchietto

Fennel grows wild in southern Italy and Sicily, and appears on many Italian menus, so it would be natural for distillers to experiment with infusing the fronds to create an anise-flavoured liqueur. On the Campania coast, in sight of the Isle of Capri, Nastro D'Oro have been creating artisan, authentic liqueurs typical of the region, since 1996. Their Finocchietto has a lovely, slightly oily mouthfeel, and over ice opens up to be bright with light licorice and notes of celery. Sip it neat, use in cocktails, or try

cooking your prawns or scallops in it! CSPC +782168 $37-40 At Cardinale, Teare created a fresh and delicious Finocchietto Jalapeno Margarita for us: add 1½ oz tequila, ¾ oz finocchietto, 1 oz of lime juice, ¼ oz simple syrup, and some chopped jalapeno to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and pour over ice in a glass rimmed with salt. Garnish with jalapeno and fennel fronds.

Cadello

The newest kid on the block – with Alberta chosen for its recent Canadian launch - is Cadello. But this is no kid, it’s a sophisticated liqueur that was three years in development to achieve the master distiller’s ideal blend of botanicals: eight from Italy and more from locations along the Old Silk Route that ran from Asia to the Mediterranean. Each ingredient is infused separately and then individually distilled, before being blended and aged in French oak barrels. CSPC +857060 500 mL $48-55 Cadello is anise-forward, followed by coffee and dark chocolate with a touch of vanilla and hazelnut, and a creamy mouthfeel. It’s a lovely drink to sip on its own, but for a cocktail Teare suggests trying a Cadello Espresso Martini. Stir together ½ oz Cadello, 1½ oz coffee liqueur, 1½ oz chilled espresso, and 6 dashes (1 bar spoon) coffee bitters. March 2022 | Culinaire 35

Roll Out The Barrels BY DAVID NUTTALL

Ian Breitske

Trial and Ale brewing

lthough beer has been stored and aged in wooden barrels for hundreds of years, as stainless steel grew in popularity though the 20th century, tanks and kegs followed suit and except for a few locations in Europe, wood was abandoned. Big Brewing had no need for something that was more porous, expensive, and difficult to clean; wooden barrels became so unpopular, the profession of being a cooper (those who repair and make barrels) almost perished. There was even a time when wineries and distilleries often gave obsolete barrels away. At the time, very few breweries outside Europe had a barrel program. But a funny thing happened on the way to the 21st century. Winery numbers began to explode starting in the 1960s in the U.S. and 20 years later in Canada. Craft beer took off in the mid-1980s, and distilleries followed as the 2000s dawned. While wineries and distilleries are the main users of wooden barrels, craft breweries noticed the excess of unwanted containers, and began to

36 Culinaire | March 2022

reuse them, even if the barrels were no longer free. As American craft breweries started diving into barrel-aging beer in the 1990s, they commonly selected higher gravity beers, such as scotch ales, barley wines, imperial stouts, Belgian strongs, and others that would mellow as they aged. Sour beers were not yet a marketable style and were only found in the import section of liquor stores. In 2000, none of Canada's 85 or so breweries, including the 8 breweries in Alberta, had a serious barrel program. Even when we last visited this topic in 2018 (Beer is a Barrel of Fun, Culinaire, January/February 2018), only a handful had ever made a barrel aged beer. This began to change as the number of breweries increased. Soon, more brewers were experimenting with more styles of beer, and as the barrel supply increased so did the variety of barrel aged beers; even sours suddenly became popular. In the past, new breweries often waited years before they ever put beer in a barrel; now they are doing it even before opening.

In 2020, two new breweries in Edmonton began brewing beers solely to be matured or fermented in barrels. Trial and Ale and Blind Enthusiasm’s Monolith create complex and unique beers that require time before consumption. In Calgary, The Establishment Brewing Co. opened in 2019 with barrels at the ready, and now release several different beers a year. Of course, not every brewery employs a barrel program. Barrels aren’t cheap (anywhere from $500 to $2,000 each), hold back inventory for months (or even years), and take up valuable space in the brewery. However as breweries evolve, they are always keen to add more recipes to their menu, and barrel aging adds a new (if time consuming) dimension to brewing. Nevertheless, not every beer is “barrel ready”. Barrel aging imparts its own characteristics on a brew, and not all beers benefit from that alteration, although some beers can be “spliced” off from the normal run and put into wood, while the rest goes to market. Other beers require unique recipes that are

A change in any one of these aspects will influence the final product. In addition, the brewer can blend different barrels together, combine older vintages with newer beer, or add bacteria, fruit, spices, herbs, or anything else they desire. Calgary's Zero Issue Brewing produces a series of barrel aged Russian Imperial stouts with different additions like maple syrup, vanilla, and blackcurrant. Brewers look for a variety of barrels, which allows them to produce a greater variety and amount of each beer. Blindman Brewing, of Lacombe, has a 3,000 litre foeder (literally, Dutch for big *ss barrel; most barrels are about 200 litres, but can be as small as

Bri Vos Detour Photography

intended to age. Often they have higher residual sugars and employ longer boils to increase the original gravity and extract unique flavours while held in wood. Some of this is part science, part art, with a modicum of luck and careful tending before releasing. Among the many factors that can influence the beer are: • Length of time in the barrel • The kind and quality of the wood used • Whether the barrel is new or used • If used, what was previously in the barrel • The age of the barrel • The level of char of the barrel • Conditions of storage within the facility (temperature and humidity) • Size of barrel

Monolith Brewing

60 litres). Fernie Brewing (B.C.) owns multiple barrels which used to contain white or red wine, tequila, rum, whiskey, and more. Similarly Calgary’s Prairie Dog Brewing has been accruing multiple barrels for about two years for their high gravity and sour beers. Since these beers are always limited in availability, they only account for a tiny proportion of a brewery's output, yet are often celebrated as some of their finest products. This has no doubt increased a brewery's recognition. The Establishment (2021) and Common Crown Brewing Co. (2020), both with barrel programs, won the Canadian Beer Awards Brewery of the Year. There are now more breweries using barrels than there is space in this article, so see if your favourite local has any barrel fermented or aged beers available.

The Establishment David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

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MAKING THE CASE

For Italian Wine By TOM FIRTH

ith March being Culinaire’s Italian-centric issue, it was an easy choice to focus on some Italian wine selections here. Italy is in many ways the centre of the wine producing world - with a fine balance of high quality wines, but also tremendous variety of grapes and blends, and a staggeringly large variety of prices too. This month, I’ve been feeling the love for chianti, but I’ve also tried to find a good balance of newer offerings, some well-known bottles or producers, and also finding wines with prices a little more on the reasonable side (because… you know… inflation) as well. A great number of these wines will taste very good when the warmer weather comes too, so keep a few of these in mind for patio season! Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate. Luigi Righetti 2018 Valpolicella Ripasso Veneto, Italy

People just love Ripasso wines – and for good reason. At a very fair price, ripassos are made by passing fresh valpolicella wines over the raisined grapes used in making amarone (which is typically fairly expensive) gaining a little of that richer, sweeter character in the process. Big and generous fruits on the nose and palate with a little of that plush, sweeter fruit, but also liquorice, spice, and mellow tannins. A fine bottle any night of the week; on your menu should be steaks, or even tomatodominant pastas, or ribs from the grill. CSPC +838054 $25-29

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

38 Culinaire | March 2022

Masottina NV Collezione 96 Brut Prosecco, Italy

The very best thing about prosecco, is that it really is meant to be enjoyed. This brut shines with fresh and clean apple and nectarine fruits, a splash of peach and grapefruit and a touch of mineral characters. Plenty of zest and a nice, frothy foam, it checks off all the boxes for a mid-week treat. I prefer my prosecco without food, but this would be at home with light snacks and a movie too. CSPC +856316 $17-21

Masottina NV Collezione 96 Rosé Brut Prosecco, Italy

Made from prosecco’s glera grapes with pinot noir (for both colour and character), this rosé prosecco shows the barest colour in the glass, yet still shows off tart strawberry, a pinch of cherry, and a fine floral note tying it all together. The palate is crisp and dry, with those summery fruits leading the way and a touch of hard candy towards the finish. A rosé that very much over delivers on quality and flavour – at a fine price too. CSPC +856317 $18-21

Spinelli 2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Abruzzo, Italy

While Italy is packed corner to corner with great wine and food, it was in Abruzzo that I have never eaten so well or for so long with such a wide variety of food. Primarily montepulciano d’Abruzzo with a touch of sangiovese, this excellent value wine is all about red fruits with good supporting spicy and earthy notes. Tannins are almost cuddly-soft with the fine acids that make a wine like this perfect for the barbecue or smoker. Try grilled red meats or even a brisket with this one. CSPC +799608 $12-15

San Felice 2018 Il Grigio Chianti Classico Reserva, Tuscany, Italy

Pasqua 11 Minutes Rosé, Veneto

Tommasi 2020 “La Fornaci” Lugana, Italy

A long-time favourite in premium chianti for me, and one that leans a little closer to the old world in approach. Dried plums, cherry, and abundant herbaceous and spicy aromas yield to rich fruits on the palate with crisp, tomato-friendly acids, and a long tannin presence to close things off. Definitely a wine that can handle some red meat: think dry rubs, prime rib and smoker-friendly dishes. Delicious! CSPC +310490 $28-32

A blend of both red and white varieties, primarily corvina and trebbiano with syrah and carmenère, making for a surprisingly floral glass of wine with fruits showing off plump raspberry and fresh cherry notes. Rather dry on the palate too, it’s exactly the sort of wine that works so well on a warm day, but also quite nicely with salty snacks on that warm day too. Serve nice and chilled, but not ice cold if you can. CSPC +802206 $21-22

Mezzacorona 2018 Dinotte Red Blend Dolomites, Italy

San Felice 2019 Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy

Collazzi 2018 I Bastioni Chianti Classico, Italy

Prelius 2019 Vermentino, Maremma Tuscany

Collazzi 2018 Libertà, Tuscany, Italy

Ricasoli 2018 Brolio Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy

The Mezzacorona label is well known to people who enjoy well-priced Italian wines, and this new offering is welcome indeed. Based around two uncommon varieties grown near the Dolomite mountains teroldego and marzemino with a little merlot to soften things up, this blend is a little more fruit driven than expected, with plush black fruits and a full, mellow tannin presence. A gem with burgers from the grill or rich and meaty sauces. CSPC +849976 $17-21

A beautifully structured chianti classico that treads the line well between old world styling and the more generous fruit many drinkers want. A touch closed at first, but by the time dinner is on the table, those cherry-driven fruits are humming along and fine-grained tannins with fine acidity let some of the spicier and earthier notes shine through. Pairs exceptionally well with tomato-based sauces, those red meats or some savoury stews. CSPC +245241 $21-24

A “Super Tuscan” wine from around the Vermentinos are some of the most same area as Chianti Classico, but a quality pleasurable, novel, and interesting white wine made from international or nonwines to drink. Big, slightly spicy and traditional grapes – in this case, about half mineral driven, with pineapple, nectarine, merlot with cabernet franc and 15 percent and melon fruit on the nose, but it’s on the syrah, making for a completely different palate where things sing with zest, white expression. Cherry and blackberry fruits with pepper spice, and lovely acids. Wake up that a mild tarriness and black liquorice character tired palate with something a little different, start things off with a rather fruit-centric but crazy good too. A completely crushable palate rounding it out. The sort of wine that wine that will be a hit with poultry or works very nicely with something beefy, like seafoods. Serve cool, but not too cold. a Bolognese sauce or even a fine burger. CSPC +821096 $24-28 CSPC +738703 $25-30

Made from 100 percent turbiana, which might be better known as verdicchio bianco or trebbiano di Lugana in some circles, this is very much a new offering for us from Tommasi – already very well known for a few nice reds. Positively bursting with tropical fruits and a fresh almond nuttiness on the palate, with a brightness to the acids that just beg for lighter seafood dishes, freshwater fish, or good, creamy cheese. A treat. CSPC +846132 $24-28

A clean and stylish, modern, but also fairly traditional style of Chianti Classico. Abundant fruits lead off the experience with fresh, tart cherries, a bit of smoke and old wood notes, with a palate that just screams out balance between the zip of the acids and the generosity of the fruit. The sort of wine that over delivers on its own or at dinner with traditional Italian dishes laden with tomato. At the same time, a wine that is perfectly at home at a barbecue. CSPC +717834 $26-31

An utter and complete classic wine from Tuscany. Brolio, the Ricasoli family’s wine from Chianti Classico has leafy, herbal aromas over those tart cherry aromas many chiantis have, with understated elegance, a deep, black earth sort of depth, perfume, and slightly smoky sour cherries on the palate. Tannins are big, but not too aggressive, making for versatility at dinnertime. A clean, beautiful wine that is worth discovering. CSPC +3962 $24-28 March 2022 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . .

Favuzzi Truffle Tomato Sauce

Mmm… we all deserve a little decadence and we found so many uses for Favuzzi’s artisanal Truffle Tomato Sauce to add a little luxury to our dishes. Produced by the De Laurentiis family in Abruzzo, who grow organic tomatoes, saffron, and other seasonings, it’s made in small batches over an open flame to reduce gradually. It contains pieces of truffle, and makes an amazing topping for pizza, in your lasagne, on meatloaf, eggs, and a lot more! 480 mL $9 at Italian and specialty stores.

Pasta Fresca

Trevor Jerram spent years working in fine dining restaurants abroad, and on his return to Calgary worked at River Café and Model Milk - and now he’s launched Pasta Fresca YYC offering pre-ordered deliveries of made-from-scratch on the day Pasta Kits for 2, fresh pasta, and pasta sauces. We’ve tried them and have no hesitation in telling you they are really good! Check out pastafrescayyc.com for details and to order, and watch for Pasta Fresca’s monthly pasta subscription coming soon.

Uptown Jerky

We couldn’t help but investigate further when we read, “An uncompromising snack made with 100% Alberta beef and none of the nonsense.” Tara Seitz started making jerky for her family early in the pandemic and it’s now grown into a full-time artisan business, Uptown Jerky, in Vulcan, AB. Her ‘Ginger Ambitions’ is a tasty, gingery and salty, gluten- and sugar-free, small batch boutique jerky, cut in easy-to-nibble little squares. 30 g packs, about $5, check out uptownjerky.ca for stockists.

Casoni Vermouth all’Aceto Balsamico di Modena

Zwilling ‘Fresh & Save’ Starter Kit

We’re all trying to reduce the amount of food we waste, and our trials of this vacuum storage starter kit, from Zwilling, have proven it to be a very useful way of keeping food fresh. Two plastic or glass containers and four freezer-proof, zipperclose bags, can also be used for sous-vide cooking as well as in the microwave. We loved the bonus application of the handheld, cordless vacuum pump – it works perfectly to preserve open bottles of wine too! $140-$205 at houseware stores and zwilling.ca.

Cuisipro Pizza Shears

We love vermouth in all its guises, and we’re delighted to discover this most unusual variation – with balsamic vinegar! If your distillery has been in Modena since 1814 (the home of balsamic vinegar) then I suppose it’s natural that you’d work with your neighbours. The result is an unctuous liqueur that is 100 percent umami, dark, rich and dense, and eminently sippable for sheer pleasure after a meal, or with flavourful charcuterie and cheeses. CSPC +829198 $32-35

When it comes to cutting pizza, the folks at Cuisipro didn't just reinvent the [pizza] wheel, they did away with it altogether, and replaced it with Pizza Shears. They’re exactly what the name says: scissors for cutting your pizza (and they work great on quesadilla and naan bread, too!) Ergonomically designed, lightweight, easy to clean, they also double as a lifter. Bonus marks because they keep your toppings in place. Oh, and they're also lefty-friendly! $30-40, at zestspot.com and home goods stores. 40 Culinaire | March 2022

Emile Henry Pizza Stone

There have been home-use pizza stones in my life before, but this one from Emile Henry is far and away the most pleasurable to use. A pizza stone is a must for the best quality homemade pizza as it ensures the best conditions for a good crust. This stone has oven mitt friendly handles and a sturdy glazing for easier clean up and durability. Plus, it can also be used to make some damn good nachos look even better! At zestspot.com and good housewares stores province-wide $75-90. Favuzzi Organic Sicilian Mandarin Marmalade

Salvatore Mammana has been producing artisan jams for thirty years in the east of Sicily, and his organic marmalade made from fresh mandarins for Favuzzi is now available in Alberta. It’s sweet yet just a little tart, intense, with very small pieces of peel – and really delicious with soft and creamy cheeses. We enjoyed it over cake, on ice cream, and on raisin toast too. Also available is his organic blood orange marmalade. 266 mL $8 at The Italian Center Shops in Edmonton and Calgary.

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Not Milk

No, that's not a typo, this is Not Milk, a plant-based milk alternative from food tech company NotCo. It has the same taste and texture as real dairy and can be used in place of just about anywhere that calls for it. We tried the 2% on cereal and couldn't tell the difference - and it's great for dunking cookies, too. The whole milk holds up in morning coffee, and works like a dream for soups, sauces, and smoothies. 1%, 2%, and Whole varieties, $5, widely available.

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Joe Giusti BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

“My life story is the story of many immigrants,” says Joe Giusti. “They had the opportunity to come to this great country of ours in the ‘70s, to a country that if you are an honest, hardworking person, you can grow and get somewhere. And I think it's the only place in the world you could do that, so forever thanks to Canada.” As a child, Giusti heard about his relatives in Vancouver who had done very well, and was fascinated by Canada, so when his chance came in 1973, the 17-yearold didn’t hesitate to immigrate. He was fortunate - it was the right time and the right place. Giusti came as a welder, but friends would tell him, “You want to make money in Canada? You have to be in construction.’ “The easiest thing to do was to start framing,” he says. “In Italy I had the best professor, and was well prepared. I could read a drawing and design a house when I was in grade eight.” Success came quickly, and by 1975 Giusti had 170 young Canadians working for him in the Fraser Valley: “It didn't take us long to be known from Hope to Richmond.” They spent 25 years in Vancouver, opening Julian Ceramic Tile in 1978, and expanding to Alberta in the early ‘90s. “With the construction company, Giusti Group, we came here in ‘97 because some clients asked us to work on a project at Mount Royal College,” he explains. “Within a few days we moved 58 people here, and we were all staying at the army barracks on Crowchild Trail.” It wasn’t until 1998 that Giusti started buying property and investing in Italy. Both his father and father-in-law made wine, but the modern wines were not as good as he remembered. “My greatest memory is from the vineyards,” he 42 Culinaire | March 2022

recollects. “I got upset and said we have to produce better wine because in the last 23 years, it seemed to me that in Italy, which is a very tiny country, we are known for quality.” At the beginning Giusti sold his grapes to other wineries, but after his father-inlaw passed away, he decided to produce his own wine. Giusti Wine developed rapidly: “We invested a lot of millions there in Veneto, and it was calculated. We want to be the best winery in the north of Italy, and I think we’ve succeeded. We supply a lot of juice to our partners in the industry.” “I'm very outspoken, and pushing to raise the quality of wine that we produce in our country,” Giusti says. “And without chemicals - I'm against pesticides. If we can produce less quantity, more quality, and away from chemicals, that is something I would like to see happening. I can see the change right now; the fauna, the birds, the partridges, and the quail, have returned to our land after they disappeared for 34 years. It makes me very happy because nature heals itself very

quick if we stop abusing it.” Giusti is grateful that he’s been fortunate in life from the day he arrived in Canada, and says, “the least that I can do is give them a good bottle of wine.” What bottle is Giusti saving for a special occasion? While their traditional Veneto wines – prosecco and amarone - are revered all over the world, the winery’s most iconic wine is Umberto I, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, and Giusti’s favourite. In 2011, they produced 30 12-litre bottles, and he kept one. “When Massimo, my oldest grandson, graduates from university, we’re going to have a big party because he's the first of the next generation. He's 15 now, so I hope in 10 years we are going to open the bottle. We grow so fast all over the world, and most of the wine is sold out before the next vintage is ready, so we never give the wine chance to grow up. It would be nice to see a bottle put away for 20 years, especially the Bordeaux-style wine, and I'm looking forward to it.”

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FROM BOLOGNANO TO YOUR GLASS #1 Selling Montepulciano in Alberta.

“The Twig Wine”

PINOT GRIGIO ❖ MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO ❖ ROSÉ Proudly represented by Andrew Peller Imports

www.cantinazaccagnini.it/

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