Culinaire #11.3 (July-August 2022) by Culinaire Magazine

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Best Quiche | Road-Trip Food Stops | Summertime Sips | Peaches

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contents

Volume 11 / No. 3 / July/August 2022

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Book Review

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways to Grill Fruits and Vegetables

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Making the Case:

Etcetera...

Open That Bottle

Local lovin’ in the kitchen Wines to Grill For… Part 2

What’s new? With Paul Poutanen of Tippa Inc. and Alchemist Vinegar

14 Spilling the Tea on Summertime Brews

Brew it, buy it blended, or make it boozy… by Adrianne Lovric

Just Peachy

July and August mean peach season! by Natalie Findlay

ON THE COVER 20 Bottling the Spirit of Alberta Nothing quite says the fruits of summer are here than fresh, sweet-smelling peaches, and we’re saying a big thanks to Natalie Findlay, who has let us have recipes for her four favourite ways to enjoy them – one of them being her Peach Blackberry Thyme Galette adorning our cover!

Rig Hand Distillery by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

The Search for Calgary’s Best Quiche

…is over – the results are here! by Linda Garson

Step by Step

Victoria Sponge Cake by Renée Kohlman

Alberta’s Road-Trip Food Stops Worth the Drive

Alberta’s Road-Trip Food Stops Worth the Drive by Lynda Sea

32 35 36

Digging up the dirt

…it runs deeper than you think by Mallory Frayn

Summer Spirits

Bottles for drinking at home on a hot day – or cool night by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

Alberta Brewing Starts Getting Noticed

Our province’s brewing world grows and progresses by David Nuttall July/August 2022 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Open for business

t seems a long time coming but summer’s finally here, and Alberta’s open for business - in a BIG way! I’m thinking back to this time last year, and while patios were open, indoor dining was just starting up again – and not in all restaurants. We were wary, settling for the safety of plastic screens and social distancing, and ordering takeout. We may not all have thought how hard that would be for chefs that pride themselves on the beautiful presentation and plating of their food, to dump their dishes in cardboard or plastic to be reheated at home. We were talking about mental health and the shocking number of suicides in the hospitality industry, and that some

New restaurant openings remain unabated, particularly in Calgary. I used to be able to tell you about them all in one page, yet for the last three issues we’ve filled two pages, and this month I had to hold 15 new openings over for our next issue as there just wasn’t room to fit everyone in! We’ll be busying ourselves running our tenth anniversary Alberta Beverage Awards, the biggest awards for wine, beer, spirits, soft drinks, mead, and sakes, in Western Canada, and preparing to bring you all the results and winners in our October issue. Whatever your plans for the summer, whether staying close to home or travelling far afield, I hope it’s filled with sunshine, joy, and wonderful things to eat and drink!

people were making reservations and not turning up, leaving restaurants with staff they didn’t need to bring in, and wasted inventory. Now we’re looking forward, and we’re spoiled for choice at all the opportunities for outdoor food and fun, and to support our local producers! Many of our favourites are back: for eleven whole days from July 21-31 is Taste of Edmonton, followed by Taste of Calgary August 4-7. Open Farm Days, when we can learn where our food comes from and meet the farmer who grows it, is August 13-14; and Alberta on The Plate Linda Garson, follows from August 12-21, with Brewery & The Beast hot on its heels, on August 21. Editor-in-Chief

Fresh baked breads, meats, cheese, and delicious spreads. The perfect picnic starts at our shops! Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

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EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Adrianne Lovric, David Nuttall Lynda Sea, Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Renée Kohlman

Renée Kohlman is a professional cook and baker, freelance food writer and columnist for the Saskatoon StarPhoenix. She's also the author of two best-selling cookbooks: All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions, 2017) and her most recent Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions 2021). Renée lives in Saskatoon and you can find her every weekend at the Farmers’ Market where she sells her jumbo gourmet cookies.

Adrianne Lovric

Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publiclytraded companies. Fuelled by caffeine and curiosity, she always says yes to dark roast and opportunities for new adventures. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.

Lynda Sea

Lynda is a freelance writer/editor based in Calgary. Currently, she manages web and social media for the Faculty of Nursing as a digital communications specialist at the University of Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, WestJet Magazine, EnRoute and Flare. You can usually find her out hiking in the Canadian Rockies or eating her way through Alberta. Follow her @lyndasea.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S

Michelle and Tim Brouwer’s vision for Felice Café and Market, in Edmonton’s Stadium Yards, embodies everything we love about Alberta: empowering their community by supporting local artisans, roasters, bakers, chefs, and musicians in the café as well as supporting small businesses with vendor booths in the market. At night, Felice Noir highlights local music, art, and fashion, with open mics, slam poetry, fashion pop-ups, and curated dinner dates. 10930 84 Street NW, Edmonton. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. The Pho Chu The family are busy Chin and Kathy opened the Macleod Trail location 12 years ago, with son Dylan, and uncle involved too, as they’ve opened a second location in Calgary’s Mahogany, at 80 Mahogany Road SE, Suite 1830. The menu is the same in both locations, so now you can get your fix of authentic Vietnamese pho with eight-hour beef broth, rice and pork chop, rice noodle soup with satay and beef, salad rolls, and so much more from this extensive menu. Tip: buy a jar of satay sauce to take home too! Lunch and dinner, closed Wednesdays. When friends, Bijou, George, Roy, and Joseph realised Calgary’s deep southwest was missing authentic Indian food, they enlisted the help of Fairmont Chef, Subin Mathew and opened Savory Bitez, a from-scratch, take-out only spot where you can buy the marinated meats to cook at home or dishes ready to eat. We’re very impressed with the flavour and quality of the curries here; the Dum Biryani (order 24 hours in advance) is made with shaheen – premium, Afghani long grain rice aged for two years, and it’s outstanding. Notable smoothies here too! 180 Legacy Main Street SE, lunch and dinner, closed Mondays. Student prices 11-2 pm. 6 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Can’t decide whether you’re out for butter chicken or pizza? Authentic Nepalese or poutine? Wraps or rice? You can please the whole family at Y-Not Indian Bar & Bistro’s third Edmonton location, as well as Mistatim Way NW and 82nd Avenue NW, you’ll find them at 3311 34th Street, lunch to late, seven days.

Deftly dodging that divide between good comfort food and elevated dining, Edmonton’s new Flame & Barrel is an exciting new restaurant whether you’re celebrating or just plain hungry, with daily happy hour from 2-6 pm and nightly dinner features. Open lunch and dinner seven days, 1237 Windermere Way SW.

Hillhurst has a lively new breakfast/ brunch/lunch hotspot! BrouHaHa owner and chef, Hong is serving up generous portions of creative dishes to very appreciative customers. Popular must-tries include the filled soft omelettes Omurice and Kimchi Omurice, fried crab meat scramble on croissant (oh yum!), and an all-in Brunch Tray to share, plus all the other sweet and savoury brunch dishes to satisfy your pangs. Seven days, early-3 pm, 609 14 Street NW.

Quick, good, and simple handmade burgers are always in demand, and Edmonton’s Burger Daddy not only fits the bill but adds specialty sandwiches and sides to the mix! 4351 167 Avenue, lunch and dinner, seven days.

Linvers Atelier Tea and Coffee only opens a few hours a day, so book yourself a private one-on-one tasting with tea sommelier Josh Linvers, who’s raising the bar in Calgary’s tea world. Sample before you buy - it’s perfectly brewed, and savour There’s more to Edmonton’s Bravo Pizza the notion of terroir, like fine wine. Linvers & Kitchen than pizza! As well as a huge only works with pure teas, from China, choice of red and white sauce pizzas, both Japan, India, and Taiwan, to fit a range classic and original, there are platters, pasta, of budgets, and roasts your coffee beans burgers and fries, sandwiches and desserts. to order in 15 minutes so they’re always 13240 118 Avenue. Lunch and dinner seven fresh. Treat yourself to a foie gras Chagashi days. (tea snack) by Hara Man, and beautiful ceramics and tea paraphernalia all with Oh to be a student again! Calgary’s stories for when and why you’d use them. University District is moving apace, 2915 19 Street NE, Bay 6. now with the addition of The Banquet, an upscale, trendy spot with not only Open to the public as well as restaurants something for everyone – but lots for and caterers, long-time Edmonton everyone! A gourmet premium dive bar family-run business, Westgate Halal with so many good choices for a snack, Meat and Deli, has opened a second lunch, or dinner on the very affordable location at 12512 137 Avenue. 10-8 pm, menu from Chef Justin Laboissier. 30 beers 7 pm weekends. on tap, cocktails and mimosa tower for Mike and Lee Stanfield’s passion weekend brunch. Weekend ticketed events, dueling pianos, DJs and dance floor, and project-turned business, Starr Distilling, games! Bowling, a full-size "Price is Right" has now moved in with Calgary’s Burwood Distilling, who are in the process of moving wheel, shuffleboard, and beanbag toss and to a brand new distillery. Stop by for a bite Giant Jenga on the dog friendly patio. 3953 University Avenue, 11-2 am, seven days. and drink while your kid does karate next Edmonton, your new location is next! door, or for date night, or a celebration, and

enjoy one of Holly Burdess’s cocktails with Chef Kyrin Sharratt’s delicious, summer share plates of arancini, salmon tacos, artichoke dip, cedar plank salmon, and wagyu burgers. Wednesday-Saturday, 12-9 pm. Watch for the patio coming soon at 4127 6 Street NE! There’s a lovely, soothing quality to new Calgary brunch café, Centre Café, and a superb menu. With 30 years’ experience, 10 in 5H hotels in Korea, chef knows the Asian dishes popular in the west, and western dishes popular in Asia, and has combined both expertly, offering shrimp and basil cream, and smoked duck Bennies, a wonderful seafood gratin, lamb bowl, noodles, udon, and rice dishes, all washed down with elegant fruit and milk teas and Fratello coffees. 9-3 pm. At 5 pm,

the menu changes to Sichuan and popular Chinese dishes. 1715 Centre Street NW, closed Monday. East African food is becoming increasingly popular and we know why – we love it! Now the new Serengeti BBQ has opened in Edmonton to spice up the scene. Our faves mishkaki and mogo are here so order a platter and try all the specialties to find your fave! seven days, 8815 118th Avenue NW, noon-2 am. Calgary’s 17 Avenue SW has a new place to chill. College friends, Hooman Hodaie and Braden Nobis’ Element Café is open early-10 pm every day, and is so relaxing, with head bobbing music and terrific hot and cold snacks from the family’s Eclipse Bakery, and vegan savouries from Canela.

We love the hot spinach and feta, and ham and cheese in beautiful baked rolls, the extra thick, huge cookies, and we couldn’t get enough of their lime and saffron or pepper roast almonds, cashews, and pistachios! 331 17 Avenue SW. Bountiful Farmers’ Market may have lost a vendor, but mochi fans in Edmonton (and we know there are a lot of you) have gained access to these terrific chewy and flavourful donuts six days a week! Hello Mochi is open at 6191 Currents Drive NW, 10 am-sold out, closed Mondays. Do you have something notable to let us know about? A new opening, launch, rebrand, or accolade? Email us at info@culinairemagazine.ca!

2nd location

CFM West opening august

B O O K R E V I E W BY LI N DA G A RSO N

Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways

to Grill Fruits and Vegetables, from the Master of Live-Fire Cooking By Francis Mallmann, Appetite by Random House, $50

RANCIS MALLMANN HAS BEEN on my list of fave chefs since I ran my first wine and culinary tour to Chile and Argentina twelve years ago, and we dined at his beautiful 1884 Restaurant in Bodega Escorihuela Gascon, near Mendoza.

He’s from Patagonia, and known for barbecuing meat. “It may come as a surprise that after so many years of unconditional love for meat that I now ask you to come along with me back to the garden,” he says, and acknowledges that he’s always served vegetables, but they’ve frequently been more of a sideshow than the main attraction. His new book includes more than 80 tempting recipes for veggies and fruits to be cooked over fire, yet they work equally

well indoors cooked in a cast iron skillet or on a griddle. Green Fire is an emotive book, and you can almost smell the smoke as you read Mallmann’s engaging commentary and wonderful introductions to each vegetable and recipe. He starts in a place close to my heart – with the potato, and his debt of gratitude to this humble vegetable (p.24). At this point I’m already sold and looking forward to trying pretty much all the recipes in the chapter, particularly Huevos a la Tripa (p.46) which, despite the name, is just potatoes, eggs, cheese, and bechamel. Moving on with tomato, eggplant, artichoke, beet, and cabbage recipes (yes, I earmarked many of these recipes

Don’t leave it too late to register for the most deliciously fun day of the year OUR 8TH ANNUAL CULINAIRE

Calgary World Taste Tour! RE SE RVE YOUR PL ACE S NOW FOR OUR BR AN D N E W 17 TH AVE NUE SW CU LI N A I R E WO R LD TA S TE TO U R AT culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt S U N DAY AU G US T 14 , 2022 @ culinairemag

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to be tried too), we arrive at carrots: “Shy, but beautiful” (p.158), and on to corn and fennel dishes. And then a delight to discover it’s not just veggies but beans too, and a lovely story on p.216. I’m overjoyed to see Faina, Four Ways (p.225) as I’ve been wondering what to make with my chickpea flour – and this Argentinian flatbread is perfect! Then there’s fruit, and I hear Grilled Grapes with Melted Cheese (p.253) calling my name, and to finish – cocktail recipes: “Cocktails… mark a kind of border between the concerns of the day and a time to refresh your spirit after your toils.” My thoughts entirely!

Everyone has gone home a winner at our Culinaire Treasure Hunts and Taste Tours; they’ve been so popular that the spots sell out every year, so now we’ve planned a new and exciting World Taste Tour with new treats to enjoy. And it’s all in one location – just park up and walk, no driving across town! You’ll answer questions to learn and enjoy different foods at each stop, and use your new knowledge and skill to complete the 17th Avenue SW culinary puzzle to win fabulous prizes! And there are prizes for the best costumes, the funniest team names, the funniest photos on social media... and lots more! It’s another very fun and rewarding day, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo at culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt.

Spots book up fast! IT’S GOING TO BE ANOTHER D A Y T O RE M E M B E R ! @ culinairemag

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C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Local Lovin’ in the Kitchen

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOGRAPHS BY DONG KIM

hen it comes to cooking, there’s nothing better than using local products. They’re fresh, they’re easy to source, they’re sustainable, and it feels pretty good to support our producers. And let’s be honest: Alberta has some incredible

From mushrooms to lamb to haskap berries and more, all the dishes on the menu at Edmonton’s May Restaurant use local ingredients. “I am inspired by the ingredients our farmers grow,” explains Chef Doreen Prei. “Alberta has some amazing products I love to work with. There’s a translation from the farmer, to me, to the customer.” She connects emotionally with food and is always thinking about it in some capacity. When it comes to the farmer’s market she says, “Everyone is very knowledgeable and passionate about their products. It makes me happy to see people there, supporting our community.” The May Pork Burger is an East-meetsWest situation: Vietnamese flavours combined with Alberta pork, topped with spicy mayo made with hot sauce from Lacombe cayenne peppers. It’s a dish Prei makes at home, and encourages you to try, too. “Go with the flow,” she says, “Prepare all of your ingredients first before cooking, and make sure you know what cooks the longest.”

producers making incredible edible things, and while they’ve always had a home at farmer’s markets, they’re popping up in grocery stores, too. Face it, we’re spoiled – and we wouldn’t have it any other way. So, let’s celebrate Alberta, with local

talent sharing their favourite local ingredients as well as flavours right off local menus. From burger sauce to BBQ lamb, to pork belly and burgers, we’ve got you covered whether you’re grilling in the sunshine or cooking low and slow on a rainy afternoon.

May Pork Burgers

patties plus a little tester burger. Cook the little tester first to see if it needs any more seasoning. 2. Heat up a frying pan to high heat, once heated add the canola oil, then the burger patties. Turn the heat to medium and cook the burgers 70 percent on one side and flip them and cook the other side until well done. If you have a BBQ, you can use that instead. 3. Once your burgers are cooked to your liking, take them out of the frying pan and rest for 2 minutes. 4. Slice brioche buns in half and warm them up in remaining fat from the frying pan that your burgers just cooked in. 5. To make your spicy mayo, mix equal amount of mayo to hot sauce, and add a pinch salt. Spread spicy mayo on toasted bun, add greens, and top with the burger.

Makes 4

500 g ground Alberta pork 1 red onion, peeled, diced small 1 egg Fish sauce to taste (start with 1 Tbs (15 mL) 2 Tbs sugar To Taste salt and pepper ½ bunch fresh cilantro, washed and chopped ¼ cup + 3 Tbs (100 mL) canola oil for frying 4 brioche buns ¼ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise ¼ cup (60 mL) your favourite hot sauce Green leaves to dress the burgers 1. Combine the first 8 ingredients (down to brioche buns) and make 4 burger

July/August 2022 | Culinaire 9

At Calgary’s NOtaBLE, chef de cuisine Stefan Gusztak creates dishes combining classic techniques with original flavours. “There is a reason why some recipes have lasted as long as they have,” he says. “The experience they give is something everyone should be able to have at least once.” While customers crave the calamari, ahi tuna crudo, and Peruvian fried chicken, Gusztak’s current go-to is the Alberta bison carpaccio, made with a Szechuan and black pepper rub, and seared in beef fat. “All of the ingredients and techniques are used to enhance the flavour of the bison.” Lamb tops his list of favourite Alberta products, but he points out that research is key when it comes to sourcing local ingredients. “There are many great local suppliers, but it’s important to try everything and find what you like.” And, when it comes to the recipe for lamb shank, the key is time. “Some things can’t be rushed,” Gusztak points out. “If you enjoy cooking, dedicate time to it. Trying to rush something, or not completely understanding something, will only result in a subpar dish.”

Fig and Harissa BBQ Lambtastic Lamb Shank Serves 4

4 lamb shanks (front shanks if possible) ½-¾ jar fig jam Harissa To Taste salt and pepper 2-3 cups (500-750 mL) beef stock I onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 3-4 sticks celery, chopped Herbs of your choice (chef would use parsley) 1. Mix together enough of the fig jam to coat shanks, with harissa – it is very spicy so use a little at a time for the desired heat. Add salt and pepper to taste. 2. Marinate the lamb shanks with the fig jam mix, making sure the legs are 10 Culinaire | July/August 2022

completely coated. This is the base flavour for the lamb and the sauce made from the braising liquid. 3. Preheat your grill to 350º F and when at temperature sear the lamb shanks till you start to see colour. It’s alright if the legs get a touch dark, as the spices and sugars start to cook, they can caramelize a touch but that’s just added flavour. 4. Once the shanks are seared add them to an oven-safe dish, add beef stock to cover the legs, and vegetables, along with a sprinkling of your chosen herbs. Cover the dish with plastic wrap, and tinfoil. This will ensure there is no moisture leaks. 5. Heat your oven to 325º F and cook the shanks for roughly 3 hours. You can test the doneness by touching the meat. If you want a firmer, but still cooked lamb, cook it a little less. If you want something that “falls off the bone”, then when you touch the leg, the meat will actually fall off the bone. A firmer leg will allow you

to BBQ it again after, adding even more caramelization. 6. Once your legs are cooked, they should sit in the braising liquid overnight. This isn’t an absolute must for home cooks, however it allows the meat to cool in the liquid and compounds the flavour. Meat is stressed as it is cooked, causing it to constrict and release juice. When the meat is allowed to rest in the liquid, flavours will be added back into the meat. Your dish will be 100 times better if you allow that to happen. 7. After the legs have cooled, remove them carefully and start to reduce the braising liquid. Once the liquid has thickened substantially to a sauce, add the legs back in, heat and eat.

“I am inspired by eating, tasting, living and travelling,” says Chef Michelle ‘Mish’ Hobbs Lee of Calgary’s Maven. “I love food that connects people across distance and time.” Her favourite dish from the menu is the Tembling Road Noodles, and for good reason. “It connects me immediately to where I come from, to my childhood and to hot days spent in the shade of my popo’s veranda waiting for the noodle hawkers to come by.” While farmer’s markets are always a good bet when it comes to sourcing local ingredients, Chef Mish adds, “Most grocery stores are now highlighting Alberta products and making it easy for consumers to buy local.” Her favourite local ingredient is Alberta pork. “It’s versatile, affordable, and very easy to source.” Now that you know it’s easy to source, make Chef Mish’s recipe for Peruvian-style pork belly your next kitchen adventure. Inspired by her brother who lived in Peru for over 20 years, Chef Mish says the key is to be patient. “If you try to rush any part of the brining or braising or frying, the magic will not happen!”

Serves 4

When the pork is cooked, it makes a sensational sandwich with your favourite toppings. In Peru the traditional toppings are lime-marinated onions, avocado, roasted sweet potato, cilantro and mayonnaise. 750 g pork belly ¼ cup (75 g) fine sea salt 6 cups (1.5 L) cold water 4 tsp (20 mL) canola oil 2 bay leaves 1. Cut the pork belly into large pieces. 2. In a large mixing bowl dissolve the sea

salt in very cold water to make a brine, stir to ensure the salt is completely dissolved. 3. Place the pork pieces into a large pot and cover with the brine. Add more water to completely cover the pork. Place the pot into the fridge and let brine for 2 hours. 4. After 2 hours pour off the brine, but do not rinse pork. Place back into pot and cover with fresh water. Place the pot over high heat and add oil and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and let boil for 4 minutes. Reduce to medium heat, but water should be at a steady simmer. 5. Continue to let the water simmer, but keep watching it. The water will eventually evaporate leaving the rendered pork fat. This process will take

PHOTOS COURTESY MAVEN GROUP

Chef Mish’s Crispy Peruvian-style Pork Belly

approximately 2 hours. 6. Once the water has evaporated, turn the heat to low and gently fry the pork in the rendered fat. Turn the pork ensuring each side is fried golden. Do not over fry. Remove from pot and let rest for 10 minutes. 7. Slice and serve on crusty bread, with your favourite sandwich toppings. July/August 2022 | Culinaire 11

Mark Bellows of Edmonton’s Gravy Burger and Fries is inspired by global culinary traditions, and Gravy’s menu boasts picks like the Double Dragon, a serious burger with East Asian influences, and the Halifax, a whopping burger with a donair twist – more eastern influences, but these a little closer to home. Bellows’ favourite is the Incredible Burger, vegan style. “I love how it increases our accessibility to new people,” he explains. These days you’d be hard pressed to find a restaurant in Alberta that isn’t using local ingredients to some capacity, and Gravy is no slouch: Alberta beef brisket is the star of the show. And if you’re looking to put more Alberta on your plate at home, Bellows says, “Visit your local farmer’s market. It’s a great way to start learning about new local things in your area.” And the Double Dragon burger we mentioned earlier? It uses the housemade Dragon Sauce, which Bellows shares with us here. “It’s a Western Pacific culinary inspired sauce that goes great with the Alberta brisket,” he explains. “The key to recreating it is to whisk the final components together to get a consistent product.”

Gravy Burger Dragon Sauce Makes 3½ cups

Dragon Sauce is a mix of three sauces: Chili Paste, Ketchup, Hoisin Sauce. You’ll want to plan ahead for this sauce as your home-made chilli paste takes two weeks to ferment and be sure to have a clean glass jar ready for whatever you don’t use to save for future use! 12 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Chili Paste

1 cup (250 mL) fresh Thai chilis ½ tsp yeast 5 tsp sugar ½ cup (125 mL) water Combine and let ferment for 2 weeks, then strain through a sieve and purée.

Ketchup

½ cup + 2 Tbs (150 mL) distilled water 5 tsp (25 mL) white vinegar ¼ cup + 1 Tbs (75 mL) tomato paste 2½ Tbs sugar 5 tsp garlic powder 5 tsp onion powder 5 tsp black pepper 5 tsp salt 5 tsp mustard powder 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp chili powder Combine all the ingredients in a pot and cook for 3 hours.

Hoisin Sauce

1 cup (250 mL) soy sauce 50 g fresh ginger, finely diced 50 g fresh garlic, finely diced 50 g fresh fennel, finely diced 50 g tapioca starch Combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil, let simmer for 1 hour. Whisk all three sauces together well to get your smooth, spicy burger sauce.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

Taste your way across Alberta with the only province-wide celebration of local food & drink

dine around food festival across alberta • august 12-21, 2022 @abontheplate albertaontheplate.com

scan for: participants, producers, contests, and more!

Spilling the Tea ON SUMMERTIME BREWS BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC

14 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Cupper's Iced Matcha Tea Latte

ut your tea on ice and beat the heat with the quintessential summertime drink. Whether you brew it, buy it blended, or make it boozy, there are plenty of refreshing options for drinking in the long and lazy days of summer with an iced tea. Josh Linvers of Linvers Atelier Tea and Coffee recommends keeping iced tea as pure and humble as possible. He advises starting with a tea that tastes good to begin with — preferably green or white tea. “These teas would have more cooling properties, whereas oolong or black teas tend to be on the warming side, which aren’t as refreshing when you try to make a cooling drink with them.” Most iced tea is typically made with a black tea, which gives it a strong, abrasive taste. “Black tea tends to be three negatives put together: sour, bitter and astringent,” says Linvers, which is what leaves a dry mouthfeel after drinking it, and leads to the addition of lemon and/or a sweetening agent to offset the bitterness. The tea Linvers most recommends over ice, is bai mudan, which translates from Mandarin to English as white peony. This white tea comes in various grades ranging from the more rare and expensive silver needle tea that is made from only the leaf buds; to shou mei, which contains more leaves. Linvers suggests a bai mudan that contains a higher ratio of leaves to buds for more flavourful iced tea. Brewed for a mere minute and 45 seconds, then served over a large ice cube, bai mudan iced tea rewards drinkers with a refreshing, mellow,

Rocky Mountain Yerba Mate

and naturally slightly sweet beverage that would be especially hydrating and restorative after a long day outdoors. For those who do prefer their iced tea darker, and perhaps served with a side of metal, Dominic Alvernaz, AKA Crucfix, tea overlord, and owner of Calgary-based Satanic Tea Company, offers a selection of ethically sourced, small batch specialty teas, as well as limited edition blends in collaboration with metal bands. “Any of our teas would be good iced,” says Alvernaz of his company’s variety of black, green, and herbal tea blends with conversation-starting names such as Devil’s Blood and Throat of Lucifer, that might make you consider selling your soul on a scorcher of a day. But Alvernaz recommends his Banshee Brew — a sencha green tea citrus blend

with pineapple and hibiscus — as a more palatable, crowd-pleasing way to ease your way into quenching your insatiable thirst for… iced tea. At Cupper’s in Lethbridge, iced tea lattes such as their London Fog with Earl Grey tea, Purple Haze with blueberry hibiscus tea, or Foggy Bottom with turmeric ginger tea, are a popular alternative to iced coffee. But Cupper’s manager, Nancy Graham, recommends harnessing the sun’s rays to brew tea. “Sun teas are a great way to make iced tea,” she says, adding that the key to its success is starting with a quality tea and giving the tea enough time and room to expand to get all the flavour out. Sun tea is brewed in a clear pitcher of cold water, and left in the sun to steep all day before being refrigerated and served over ice.

Calgary's wildest dining experience is open for the summer season! Enjoy fresh and delightful food and drink menu with zoo-inspired cocktails during a visit. No reservations required, walk ups only. Visit bit.ly/Grazers for the full menu.

Graham recommends using a fruit tea or a black tea for maximum flavour. If waiting on a 4.5 billion-year-old star to brew tea isn’t your pace, readymade blended teas are delivering on taste in portable packaging. Calgary-based Rviita Energy Teas contain clean, simple ingredients in a lightweight, flexible pouch perfect for outdoor adventures. Green or black tea combine with small amounts of honey and fruit juices such as blackberry, strawberry, and elderberry to bridge the gap between the bitterness of an unsweetened iced tea and the sweetness of iced tea that the typical consumer enjoys. “Our tea is meant to be enjoyed straight out of the package, cold or at room temperature, or even warmed up,” says CEO Mitch Jacobsen, adding that freezing their packages to create a slush is another option. Calgary’s Rocky Mountain Tisane aims to #maketeacool, with their canned teas. Scott Bennie, co-founded the company with fellow fathers of young daughters who were seeking healthier, flavourful beverages. One of the founders drew on his British heritage and long history with tea, and after testing 200 different combinations landed on four flavour profiles: Hibiscus cinnamon, lemon ginger, fruit infusion and yerba mate. “We use 100 percent loose leaf tea and it’s carbonated. That’s it. We wanted to create a healthy choice, made from real ingredients that had a lot of flavour and no sugar,” says Bennie. By cold steeping the teas over 36 hours, they are achieving crisp, clean flavours, which, according to Bennie, have led some customers to use their teas as a mix with clear spirits. If iced tea with a kick is more your style, Edmonton’s Fu’s Repair Shop is brewing a number of tea-based cocktails using black and matcha teas either as mix or to infuse spirits. Fu’s manager Nikki Willis recommends infusing clear spirits with a more concentrated tea for the tea’s notes to punch through the alcohol. Burwood Distillery’s kombucha ready-to-drink cocktails offer another intoxicating option for tea-based beverages. In partnership with Happy Belly Kombucha, Burwood created three combinations with their spirits: Fruit ’n Funk, a combination of gin and pineapple hops kombucha; Summer Slam, featuring honey eau de vie and haskap berry; and Ginger Donkey, using 16 Culinaire | July/August 2022

purple ginger kombucha with a splash of vodka. Burwood’s Cory Gaudette says the fermented tea works well with spirits for a couple of reasons. “It’s light tasting so the more subtle flavours make the spirits more prominent. Also, we are always cognizant of what we add to our spirits, and Happy Belly uses high end fresh ingredients which are a great fit for our high-end spirits.” Tea also features in Burwood’s citrusforward house gin. Dragon Well green tea, sourced from Calgary’s Tea Trader is one of the botanicals used to enhance the overall experience of the gin. “The tea’s earthy texture and flavour helps to showcase the other ingredients and makes the citrus pop, which is why it ended up as one of the 14 herbs and botanicals in our gin,” says Jordan Ramey, Burwood co-owner, who adds it makes a great addition to fruit teas that have citrus or berry notes. Tea-infused or tea-inspired cocktails feature prominently on three of Banff Hospitality Collective venue menus and use teas sourced from Jolene’s Teahouse in Banff.

Satanic Summer Tea

The Bison’s Equinox Sour

Burwood Green Tea Cocktail

Three Bears Brewery & Restaurant’s Lady Lavender

2 packets green tea 2 oz Burwood gin ¾ oz fresh lime juice ½ oz simple syrup 1-2 fresh thyme leaves plus more for garnish

Eau Claire Prickly Pear EquineOx, rose petal syrup, lemon, egg white, bitters

Park Alpine Dry Gin, Jolene's Teahouse lavender earl grey tea syrup, sweet vermouth, sparkling wine

Hello Sunshine’s Matcha Colada

Park Glacier Rye, Jolene’s Tea House matcha, Caribbean pineapple, malibu, pineapple, coconut milk, she wolf matcha bitters.

Satanic Banshee

13 oz Banshee Brew pineapple hibiscus satanic tea 2 tsp sugar ½ lemon, half sliced thin and half in wedges 1 oz Butterfly Pea flower tea 1. Add sugar to Bansgee Brew and chill for 2 hours. 2. Add lemon slices and ice to empty glass and add chilled Banshee Brew Tea. 3. Add 1 oz butterfly pea flower tea and squeeze a lemon wedge over tea and watch the mixture turn from blue to purple instantly.

1. Pour 6 oz of freshly boiled water over 2 tea packets of your choosing, and allow to steep for at least 10 minutes to an hour. Let cool completely before using in a cocktail. 2. Combine gin, 2 oz of your tea, fresh lime juice, simple syrup, and fresh thyme leaves in a cocktail shaker. Gently muddle for more thyme flavour. 3. Add ice then shake well. Strain the perfectly aromatic cocktail into a short cocktail glass over fresh ice and garnish with a spring or two of fresh thyme.

Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.

Good food and deliciously fun nights out don’t stop for the summer, and we’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus! Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and email to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. These evenings can sell out rather quickly! Vine & Dine at Buffo Saturday July 16 and Friday July 22 We’re coming back to Buffo for two Vine & Dine evenings of delicious, traditional Italian 6-course pairing dinners in one of their two private dining rooms! One-Off Fine & Dine at Oxbow Thursday July 21 We’re delighted to be at one of

Calgary’s top restaurants, Oxbow, in Hotel Arts Kensington, for one evening only to treat ourselves to a special seasonal pairing dinner! Peak Cellars Winemaker Pairing Dinner at The Artist Lounge Friday July 29 We’re thrilled to have winemaker, Stephanie Stanley, of Peak Cellars in the Okanagan’s Lake Country, with us for this 6-course pairing dinner in the Ruberto Ostberg Gallery. Vine & Dine at Foreign Concept Thursdays August 11 and 18 We’re coming back for our sixth year at Foreign Concept for more of Duncan Ly’s always superb 6-course pairing menus at one of Canada’s Top 100 restaurants! Vine & Dine at Mot To Thursday August 25 and Wednesday August 31 Our first time for Vine & Dine here at this

excellent, new, modern Vietnamese restaurant with a choice of nights for our delicious 6-course pairing dinners! Vine & Dine at The Artist Lounge Wednesday August 24 An opportunity to enjoy 6 pairing courses of Chef Trent Bochek’s delicious small plates with a brand new menu for this one-off evening! Vine & Dine at Franca’s Wednesday September 7, Thursday 15, and Tuesday September 20 Our evenings at Franca’s are always wonderful and we’re long overdue a visit, so we’re coming back for three nights of super delicious 6-course pairing dinners in September! New evenings are added regularly, so check them out and email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places. We try to cater for all allergies.

Just Peachy!!! STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY

s there any other fruit that ignites the feeling of summer than a bite into a freshly picked, warm, ripened-from-the-sun, juice-drippingdown-your-chin, sweet peach? There are three groups of peaches: freestone (flesh easily removed from pit), semi-clingstone, and clingstone (flesh clings to pit). Peaches will continue to ripen after they have been picked, so if you find some that are too firm, let them sit out for a few days. The sweet smell and slightly soft feel of their flesh when pressed will let you know they are ripe. Peach season does not last long, enjoy as many as you can during July and August. Peach Blackberry Thyme Galette Peach Blackberry Thyme Galette

Peach Blackberry Thyme Galette Makes 1 Galette

Dough

1/3 cup (80 mL) water 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup almond flour ¾ cup whole wheat pastry flour ½ tsp salt 1 tsp thyme ¾ cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 5cm slices 3 Tbs (45 mL) buttermilk 3-6 Tbs ice water

Filling

3 cups peaches, sliced 1 cup blackberries ½ cup brown sugar ½ tsp thyme Pinch salt 1½ Tbs cornstarch 1 Tbs (15 mL) heavy cream 1/3 cup castor sugar 1 Tbs slivered almonds Drizzle of honey or vanilla ice cream, for garnish 18 Culinaire | July/August 2022

1. Add 1/3 cup of water to a small bowl and put it in the freezer to chill. 2. Add the flours, salt, and thyme to a large bowl, and stir to combine. Add the butter and rub with your fingertips until the mixture resembles lots of almond size butter chunks. 3. Stir the buttermilk and ice water together and drizzle over the flour mixture and stir. Keep combining until the dough just holds together when you give it a squeeze and there are no more dry, floury bits. Drizzle in more ice water as needed. 4. Turn the dough out onto the counter. Gently press into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap with plastic wrap and place in the fridge to chill 45 minutes. 5. Cut peaches into slices. In a medium bowl, add peach slices, blackberries, sugar, thyme, salt, and cornstarch and stir to combine. Let sit while the dough chills. 6. Remove the dough from the fridge. Unwrap. Place on a lightly floured surface and roll out dough to 15 cm diameter. 7. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Gently ease dough unto parchment. Place fruit mixture on the dough leaving approximately 7 cm rim without fruit.

8. Fold the dough rim over the fruit. Put in freezer for 20 minutes. 9. Preheat oven to 450º F. Remove dough from freezer. Brush the rim with heavy cream and sprinkle with sugar and slivered almonds. Place in the oven. Turn down heat to 375º F and bake for approximately 45 minutes. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

Prosciutto and Peach Salad

Prosciutto and Peach Salad Roast Chicken with a Sticky Peach Glaze

Roast Chicken with a Sticky Peach Glaze Serves 4

4 pieces chicken 1½ tsp ground rosemary 1 tsp garlic powder 2 cm ginger, grated 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 3 Tbs rice flour 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 small onion, diced 1 cup (250 mL) beer ½ cup (125 mL) chicken stock 2 Tbs (30 mL) maple syrup 3 peaches, cut in quarters 1. Season chicken with rosemary, garlic, ginger, salt, and pepper. 2. Coat with rice flour. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Brown chicken on both sides. 3. Add onion, beer, stock, maple syrup, and peaches. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook chicken 20 - 25 minutes or until fully cooked. 4. To thicken sauce, remove cover and increase heat and let juices reduce until desired consistency. Or add ½ Tbs cornstarch to 2 Tbs (30 mL) cold water in a small bowl. Stir to combine and add to centre of pan and stir into juices. Cook for 1 minute.

Serves 2

Croutons

3 cups sourdough bread ½ tsp garlic powder 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil To Taste sea salt and pepper

Salad

3 peaches ½ small red onion, thinly sliced 20 cherry tomatoes, cut in half ½ cup blueberries 1 Tbs mint, thinly sliced 1 Tbs basil, thinly sliced Drizzle olive oil and lime juice, for finishing 6 slices prosciutto ½ lime, zested 1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. Cut or tear off pieces of sourdough bread and place in a medium bowl. Add garlic powder, olive oil, sea salt, and pepper to bread and stir to coat. 3. Pour onto a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until croutons are browned. 4. Preheat grill to 500º F. 5. Cut peaches in half and remove the stones, coat in oil. 6. Place peaches on barbecue. Cook for 5 minutes, turn, cook another 4 minutes. Remove. 7. In a medium bowl, add red onion, cherry tomatoes, blueberries, mint, basil, croutons, and peaches when cooked. Drizzle with olive oil and lime juice and gently stir to combine.

8. Pour out half the salad on each plate. Tuck in 3 slices of Prosciutto. Sprinkle with lime zest.

Note: you can also add arugula or lettuce to this salad.

Peach Bellini Makes 2 Bellinis

2 peaches, pitted ½ tsp lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) grenadine For topping prosecco 1. In a blender, puree peaches until smooth. 2. Add lemon juice and grenadine. Pour into glasses. 3. Top with prosecco. Garnish with a slice of peach.

Peach Bellini

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. July/August 2022 | Culinaire 19

Rig Hand Distillery:

Bottling the Spirit of Alberta BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

ince craft distilleries started emerging in Alberta in 2014, the province has seen a number of spirits brands that evoke a taste of the provinces’ bounty of grains and other ingredients, but few have been as unabashedly Albertan as Rig Hand. Located in Nisku, the distillery immediately won attention for its distinctive bottles, designed to mimic the shape of the Leduc #1 Oil Well, but it’s since earned its longevity with a wide array of products that are just as Albertan as that oil rig bottle. Beyond those signature bottles, part of what has set Rig Hand apart since it first opened as part of that first wave of Alberta distilleries is that while many craft producers have chosen to operate as boutique spirit makers that specialize in one or two exclusive products, Rig Hand’s owner and president Geoff Stewart came out of the gate with plans to go big. When he caught wind of provincial regulations 20 Culinaire | July/August 2022

changing to allow for small batch distilleries, Stewart, an entrepreneur by nature, promptly schooled himself on the spirits industry, visiting a number of distilleries in the States and writing up an elaborate business plan so that he’d be ready to apply as soon as local laws allowed for it. Wanting to make sure that every Albertan who likes to imbibe would have a Rig Hand product they’d enjoy, having a diverse product range was always part of the game plan. Today, Rig Hand makes almost 80 different products. “Most places tend to try and make one or two things,” Stewart says. “When we decided to make everything, people thought we were crazy. But it gives us the option to pour something different for somebody if they don't like one of our products. We realized we're never going to make one thing that everybody likes, but if we make enough things there will be one or two you do like.”

Stewart says that Rig Hand’s top seller is its Double Double coffee cream liqueur, with its Caesar-appropriate garlic vodka coming in second. Beyond that, the brand has a strong lineup of other flavoured vodkas (including unique flavours like jalapeño basil, saskatoon berry, and pink lemonade), rum-like sugar beet “brums,” gins, liqueurs like blue curaçao and limoncello, and whiskies. As with most distilleries, ready-to-drink cocktails have become a going concern and Rig Hand has a new line of canned cocktails with preseasoned rims, packaged with a special lid to keep the seasoning in place. Rig Hand’s dedication to ensuring that everyone can find a drink they like is matched by a community commitment to help other budding distillers join the industry. Stewart routinely mentors other entrepreneurs, brings budding distillers into his facility to learn the craft, and even holds classes for both amateur distillers and those who want to turn their hobbies

Rig Hand owner Geoff Stewart

into businesses. He clearly is having a lot of fun building Rig Hand (despite what he calls seven years of non-stop work) and his infectious enthusiasm is trickling down to other Albertans with beveragerelated dreams. “We don't look at the other craft distillers as competition,” Stewart says. “For us, they're brothers in arms. Our competition are the companies that have had a stranglehold on the spirit industry for 85 years. We want to become as big as a company like Seagram, without compromising craft principles. We still want to source our ingredients locally. We still want to employ human beings to do the work and not automate things. But we decided that instead of our community

just being Leduc, we want our community to be half the planet.” Stewart is getting a few steps closer to accomplishing that goal by opening sister distilleries in New Brunswick and Texas that will help extend Rig Hand’s reach. He’s also in the midst of moving Rig Hand’s main operation to a brand new facility near the Edmonton International airport. That new building will not only serve as the brand’s manufacturing headquarters, but will also be a tourist attraction, with an old-time Western theme, a tasting room, events spaces, and an Indigenous interpretive centre that will help to reconcile the affect that the introduction of alcohol to North America has had on Indigenous communities. All of which

FROSÉ · · · · · ·

250ml Mateus Rosé Original 50ml wild berry fruit juice 50ml vodka 30g sugar 3 strawberries Ice, ice, and more ice

Place all ingredients in a blender and mix. Garnish with lime zest.

goes back to Stewart’s commitment to dreaming big by not only outselling major liquor brands, but also creating a better, stronger industry. “Most businesses have a three-tofive-year business plan. I started with a 50-year business plan,” he says. “I’m trying to build a legacy. I’ve got a couple of granddaughters and a grandson on the way, so we're building this business for that generation to take over down the line.”

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

The Search for Calgary’s

Best Quiche BY LINDA GARSON

What makes the perfect quiche? What were we looking for? d Great quiche is all about the eggs: are they well set and not runny, rubbery, or scrambled? d The other ingredients: what else is in the quiche and does it belong? Are the flavours complementary and appropriate? d The presentation: does the quiche look enticing and appealing? Is the crust baked to a golden brown, is the custard set? d And finally, with twice the weight of each of the previous categories, we asked ourselves how highly we would recommend this to a friend.

UICHE! IT’S ONE OF THE most beloved and versatile dishes; delicate yet hearty, fragile yet substantial, regularly relished at lunch or brunch, and as a starter for supper, or cocktail canapes. The name is likely of German origin, from 'Kuchen', meaning cake or tart, and we know dishes of eggs and cream baked in pastry were in evidence in England in the 1300s, but much of the credit for its popularity goes to the Lorraine region of northeast France, where its namesake quiche was enhanced (like most things) by the addition of bacon. Eggs are an essential ingredient so, in collaboration with the Egg Farmers of Alberta, we set out to find out how Calgary fares in the quiche world – and embarked upon another amazing and completely delicious journey. We asked our readers and our followers on social media and television to nominate your favourites, and we were thrilled at the enthusiastic response: we counted 22 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Cassis Bistro

30 cafés, bakeries, and restaurants around the city, representing 44 quiches on your list of must-tries! We knew we couldn’t tackle this alone, so we engaged four local experts to judge too: egg farmer, Susan Schafers; food connoisseur, Rosemary Bacovsky; egg industry expert, Brandy Addai; and restaurateur, Mhairi O’Donnell, along with yours truly! “I was amazed to see how many entries there were,” Schafers says. “As an egg farmer, it was great to see eggs used in so many combinations of filings.” Addai echoes these sentiments: “I was definitely surprised by the number of quiches that entered as well as the variety of quiches available. There are so many delicious and unique options for Calgarians to enjoy.” “Simple foods made with the best ingredients are my favourite. That’s why I love quiche! I was so pleasantly surprised by the breadth of portions we had,” agrees O’Donnell.

We take our awards very seriously, and if we’re recommending the best of the best, every piece has to be good – and consistently good. To judge all the quiches equally and fairly, instead of having five judges driving around the city to visit all the nominated locations, this time we arranged for a full day at the Carriage House Hotel, where we could spread out comfortably and have access to ovens to sample the quiches as they were meant to be enjoyed. It was a full day of tasting, and while it sounds like the best job in the world, you may be surprised to hear that it’s really quite hard work. “After the first couple of dozen quiches, taste buds started to fatigue,” says Bacovsky. “But I nibbled on as they were so delicious and irresistible.” Some quiches arrived as individual pies and some as family-size to feed four or six people. Some quiches were even larger, serving eight, ten, or even twelve; and some had a special presentation or service consideration to better represent how the dish would fare at the restaurant or bakery. We were very impressed not only with the quality of the quiches we tasted

but the diverse range of ingredients for the fillings, as well as for the crusts and additional toppings and accompaniments. “I appreciated the creativity in structure, ie: tall and fluffy, a single portion cube, crust or no crust, and crust on the side. Gluten-free, flavours and herbs in the crust, variety of ingredients in the custard, and accompanying salads and sauces,” Bacovsky adds. “One of my favourites was a quiche that had the rosemary added into the crust, which added so much extra flavour,” says Schafers. “I also loved the use of fresh vegetables with herbs and different cheeses. The flavours were bright with the herbs and the cheeses brought in a lot of depth.” Ultimately, to be sure we’re judging like for like, we’ve split our awards into three distinct categories: d Classic Quiche Lorraine: you’ll see various definitions for Quiche Lorraine but they all include eggs, bacon or ham, heavy cream or milk, and cheese. Some will say that it can only be Swiss cheese, but all agree that apart from the addition of onions, any other ingredients would be ‘Quiche’ and not ‘Quiche Lorraine’. d Quiches with meat as well as ingredients other than a classic Quiche Lorraine would include, which we’re calling “Meat Quiches”. d And finally, quiches including no meat which we’re calling “Vegetable Quiches”. The quiches we tasted spanned all categories, and it was a very close contest. In the quiet of our judging room at the Carriage House Hotel, amidst the munching sounds, you could hear the occasional exclamation of “divine!” and “heaven”. There were many extremely good quiches that we couldn’t include here; Bacovsky summed it up with a grin… “Most quiches were eggs-traordinary!” Many thanks to everyone who helped make our search for Calgary’s Best Quiche so successful: to you for guiding our journey by nominating your favourites; to all the cafes, bakeries, and restaurants who gave their time and expertise to make the quiches for us to judge; to the Carriage House Hotel for being perfect hosts and to Egg Farmers of Alberta for

River Café

being perfect partners (and having the best oven gloves!); to our judges, who each worked diligently for seven hours tasting and scoring the quiches; and to Tom Firth for his number-crunching skills to ultimately find our winners. We’re delighted to announce the highest scoring “Classic” Quiche Lorraine: Cassis Bistro This French Ham and Gruyère Cheese quiche is beautiful, and looks just how you want quiche to look – handmade, yet deftly executed. The crust is flaky and light, and the ham is diced finely and spread evenly throughout the perfectly cooked creamy eggs. Highly Recommended winners are (in alphabetical order): Manuel LaTruwe A classic Ham and Cheese quiche, with a terrifically textured and browned crust containing buttery, light, and fluffy set eggs with a perfect quantity of ham and good flavoured cheese. Sidewalk Citizen A really good, soft and fluffy crust contains perfectly set, creamy eggs with a generous amount of bacon, onion and Cheddar, with herbs sprinkled on top and accompanied by a lovely, spicy chili sauce. Simple Simon These individually portioned Bacon and Cheddar quiches from Simple Simon are

Sidewalk Citizen

sprinkled with smoked paprika and tick all the boxes – lots of flavour, and a great buttery short crust. Our highest scoring Meat Quiche: River Café Chefs Scott Mackenzie and Ben Thompson’s elegant and unusual square quiche, with spinach, leek, mangalitsa prosciutto, Kennebec potato, green alder, Avonlea Cheddar, and white wine, comes with greens and edible flowers on top which perfectly balance the richness of the filling. Wonderful flavours in a light, flaky crust, and the highest scoring quiche of the day. Highly Recommended winners are (in alphabetical order): Lake House Chef de Cuisine Gareth Colville’s rustic, deep-dish Leek, Double-smoked Bacon, Cherry Tomato, Aged Cheddar, Gouda and Boursin, Nutmeg, and Smoked Paprika quiche presents beautifully, and has rosemary in the pastry – a lovely addition. There’s a great melding of all these flavours too. Pie Cloud Most unusual and very delicious, Pie Cloud’s “BLT” Keto Quiche has a bacon weave bottom crust (great idea!) full of flavourful fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, crumbled bacon, spinach sautéed in garlic and butter, Parmesan, Cheddar, and Mozzarella cheeses. July/August 2022 | Culinaire 23

Pie Junkie These individual, 5-inch, Bacon, Cheddar and Arugula quiches include caramelised onions, and arugula, with nicely set, creamy eggs. The buttery, crunchy crust holds a good mix of the ingredients, and a lot of filling. Yellow Door Something completely different, this deep dish 'Nduja and Grilled Asparagus quiche with its tall Sylvan Star Gouda pastry crust, is baked perfectly, filled with smooth and fluffy eggs, and comes with a roast garlic and pesto aioli and local greens too. Our highest scoring Vegetable Quiche is a tie! Gravity Espresso & Wine Bar Chef Elkin Cardona’s veggie quiche has a nicely browned and crunchy pastry crust filled with a tasty, flavourful, and smooth, creamy custard full of bell peppers, mushrooms, and cheese, and a sprinkling of paprika on top. Sidewalk Citizen Sidewalk Citizen’s veggie quiche is Mushroom, Onion, and Cheddar, with a beautifully flaky and light crust, big chunks of mushroom, a sprinkling of herbs on top, and a spicy sauce that gives a burst of flavour. (photo on page 23). Highly Recommended winners are (in alphabetical order): Le Comptoir by Francois Francois’ Smoked Gouda, Red Onion, and Spinach quiche is tall, with an

Gravity Espresso & Wine Bar

impressive crispy crust, fluffy eggs, lots of spinach, and a hefty layer of cheese on top. The smoked Gouda is delicious, and enhanced by Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses. Les Moulins La Fayette Lovely to look at, this Roast Pepper, Tomato, and Goat Cheese quiche tastes as good as it looks, with soft and fluffy eggs, a really good, light and flaky crust, and excellent balance of goat cheese to eggs, contrasting the sweet peppers. Manuel LaTruwe Another beautifully presented quiche from Manuel LaTruwe, this time Spinach and Feta Cheese, with generous amounts of both combining perfectly balanced flavours in a flaky, short crust. Pies Plus Cafe This Zucchini and Tomato quiche has a great flavour and a lovely mouthfeel, with a nice and peppery filling of soft and tender zucchini and tomato resting

in a tasty short pastry and a beautifully browned River Cafétopping. Simple Simon These individual Broccoli and Cheddar quiches have terrific flavour and are very cheesy with the addition of Parmesan. The buttery crust is evenly browned and the eggs really nicely set. Sunterra There’s a really nicely balanced combination of flavours and spice coming through in Sunterra’s good-looking Broccoli and Cheddar quiche, with its buttery crust and well-set custard filling. As some of these restaurants may be working with reduced or seasonally changing menus, you may wish to call ahead or reach out directly to them. In collaboration with:

Our Judges:

Susan Schafers of STS Farms - who better than an actual 2nd-generation Alberta egg farmer to judge all those delicious quiches!

Rosemary Bacovsky Brandy Addai who travels the world for who oversees all great food experiences. She aspects of supply chain regularly judges restaurants management as Logistics locally, nationally and Coordinator for the Egg internationally. Farmers of Alberta.

24 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Mhairi O’Donnell restaurateur and owner of The Loop, Mission Diner, Moonlight & Eli, and the new Varbar.

Linda Garson who eats and drinks for a living, and spends most of her time writing and talking about it!

JULY 21 - 31, 2022 TASTEOFEDM.CA CHURCHILL SQUARE

Great Food, Local Music

LASTING MEMORIES

Save $10! Scan to purchase tickets. July/August 2022 | Culinaire 25

STEP BY STEP

Victoria Sponge Cake STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

n honour of the Queen’s Jubilee, and because I’m always looking for a reason to bake (and eat!) cake, I whipped up the simple yet elegant Victoria sponge. As you may have guessed, the classic dessert is named after the monarch

26 Culinaire | July/August 2022

herself, as reputedly it was her favourite cake. Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, who was a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria, has been given credit for introducing the custom of afternoon tea, of which sponge cakes were a requisite part of the service.

The current monarch is also said to be partial to a slice of the layer cake, and it’s been served at several fêtes in her honour. Seeing as my invite to the festivities this year must have been lost in the mail, I’ll have to just assume it was served to the Queen and her crew in June. The beauty of this dessert is its straightforward simplicity. Two layers of orange-scented, buttery sponge cake, a sweet and tangy jam, clouds of whipped cream, and a dusting of icing sugar. It’s kind of perfect, really. Traditionally, the top is kept simple, but seeing as this is a glorious time for fresh edible flowers, I couldn’t resist a few to crown this cake. If going the flower route, be sure they are spray (and bug!) free. The cake base is a simple sponge. Nothing too complicated here, just be sure the layers are even. For the jam layer, strawberry or raspberry is traditional, but I opted for a pot of locally made strawberry rhubarb. This is where you add your own flourish, using whatever you like to flavour the middle of the cake. Pillowy whipped cream is next in the assembly line, and you can add a drop of vanilla or keep it plain. The top layer is gently pressed down to adhere the whole concoction together. Voila! Slices of Victoria sponge are best the day it’s made, which means it’s an excellent excuse to invite friends over for a spot of tea and cake. The past and present Queens would definitely approve.

Victoria Sponge Cake Serves 8

1 cup granulated sugar 1 orange, zest and juice 1 cup butter, cubed 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract 1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour 3 Tbs cornstarch 2½ tsp baking powder ¼ tsp fine salt 4 large eggs, room temperature 3 Tbs (45 mL) milk ¾ cup-1 cup (175 mL - 250 mL) strawberry rhubarb jam (homemade or store bought) 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream, chilled ½ cup sliced strawberries 3 Tbs icing sugar, divided Edible flowers for garnish, optional 1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. Lightly grease two 20 cm cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the sugar, orange zest, butter, and vanilla. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 4-5 minutes. Be sure to stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl periodically. 3. In a medium bowl whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt, 4. With the mixer on low speed, add 1 egg into the creamed butter followed by 1 tablespoon of the flour mixture. Continue with 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of the flour mixture until all the eggs are incorporated. Scrape down the bowl and the paddle. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the remaining flour mixture into the

cake batter. Stir in the fresh orange juice and milk. Gently stir until combined and smooth. 5. Divide the batter evenly among the cake pans. To be accurate, use a kitchen scale if you have one. Smooth the tops with an offset spatula. 6. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 23-26 minutes, until the cakes are lightly golden and a toothpick comes out clean. Cool on wire racks for 10 minutes, then run a knife around the edges and invert on the racks to cool completely. 7. Whip the cream into stiff peaks, and if you would like it a little sweeter, add 1 tablespoon of icing sugar. Add a drop or two of vanilla extract as well. 8. To assemble the cake: Place one sponge on the bottom of a cake plate or platter. Spread evenly with the jam, right to the edge. Top with the sliced strawberries, Heap the whipped cream over the strawberry layer, spreading it to the edge of the cake. 9. Dust the second sponge with icing sugar then place it on top of the whipped cream. Gently press down on the sides to adhere. Dust with a little more icing sugar, top with the edible flowers/and or strawberries, if using. Or, just keep it plain and simple. Serve immediately. The cake is best served the day it’s made. Note: Instead of the strawberry rhubarb jam, use strawberry, raspberry, or cherry instead. Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

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Alberta’s Road-Trip Food Stops Worth The Drive BY LYNDA SEA

UMMER ROAD TRIPS around Alberta promise breath-taking scenery, fun landmarks, and outdoor activities, but just as essential as your music playlist tunes and company is the food you’ll eat along the way. If you’re craving ideas on where to refuel for the day’s adventures and satiate your appetites, get off the beaten track and drive through the province’s charming small towns around Calgary and Edmonton. You’ll discover hidden-in-plain sight foodie gems for local provisions to eat and drink and take home. And your stomach will thank you

Chartier (Beaumont) Just outside of Edmonton, in Beaumont, you’ll find this charming French Canadian restaurant run by owners Sylvia and Darren Cheverie. Chartier was named one of the top 10 Best New Restaurants in Alberta by the Globe and Mail. Whether you come for brunch or dinner or simply to hit the bakery and pantry shelves for goodies, you’ll leave seeing why it’s attracted so much hype and buzz from patrons and press alike. Find fresh baked bread, pastries and sweets, like their sea buckthorn maple pecan butter tarts, to in-house preserves and pickles, cured meats, and heat-at-home soups. If you’re dining in, order the poutine with its triple-cooked fries, Montreal style gravy, and add the smoked meat to it. The Cookshack BBQ (Nisku) Within a 10-minute drive of Edmonton’s International Airport, you can find great southern-style barbecue in the hamlet of Nisku at The Cookshack BBQ. The family restaurant slow-smokes all their AAA brisket, Alberta pork, ribs and chicken, and sausages in-house. Bring your appetite for the generous portions and made-from-scratch daily sides of smashed potatoes, mac n’ cheese, baked beans, jambalaya rice and creamed corn. Slather your meats with their eight different house-made sauces. Old School Cheesery (Vermillion) Cheesemaker Patrick Dupuis opened Old School Cheesery in 2016 on a small acreage in the town of Vermillion. The handcrafted artisan cheese uses milk 28 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Chartier

from local dairy producers which is pasteurised onsite. Tour the cheesery housed in a converted Quonset to see how the cheese is made, then stock up on cheese to take home. Old School Cheesery is best known for its cheese curds which come in regular, garlic, dill, chipotle, barbecue, and black peppercorn. Other standouts include the Dill Cheddar or the Harvest Moon Smoked Brie which is salty and smokey from being cold-smoked with Applewood chips for six hours. Blindman Brewing (Lacombe) Named for the Blindman River in south central Alberta, the awardwinning brewery has been around since 2015. Make the drive out to Lacombe to the Blindman Brewing taproom to sample their small-batch beers. Along with their flagship beer, the bright and citrusy Blindman River Session Ale, you can find sours, strong stouts, and Belgian farmhouse style ales. The food menu features taqueria staples, like

pork carnitas tacos slow-cooked with a New England Pale Ale, and nachos made with pickled onions and jalapeño, toasted tortilla chips, cheese and peppers from Doefs Greenhouse.

Blindman Brewing

Old School Cheesery

Field and Forge Brewing Co. (Innisfail) Innisfail brewery Field and Forge continues the history and traditions of the Bilton family and their commitment to the central Alberta region. It opened in 2019 with a slate of ‘precision-crafted, highly approachable and flavourful beer’ in its Belgian Ale, Pilsner, Pale Ale and Gold Ale. Building on community, Field and Forge also supports other craft brewers by offering contract brewing at their state-of-the-art brewery. The gastropub menu has even suggested beer pairings for all items including its rustic Italian pizzas and burgers to the vegetarian-friendly Buffalo Cauliflower – a whole head of cauliflower coated in buffalo sauce and roasted with house dill ranch and green onions. Pascal’s Patisserie (Cochrane) In downtown Cochrane, Pascal’s Patisserie is the place to find delicious French pastries you can take home to bake. Classically trained French pastry maker Pascal Bagioli does all the heavy lifting for you, handcrafting smallbatch pastries with organic flour and quality ingredients, which are then flash frozen to preserve freshness. His classic croissant dough recipe is made without eggs or milk, only flour, water, yeast and time. There are also pains aux chocolats, brioches, pains aux raisins, cinnamon buns, chouquettes, and puff pastries. Follow the easy baking instructions at home to make your home smell just like a Parisian pastry shop when they come out freshly baked from your oven.

The Big Moo Ice Cream Parlour (Sylvan Lake) A Sylvan Lake institution, The Big Moo Ice Cream Parlour is right across from the beach and near the pier on Lakefront Drive. Look for the Big Moo cow out front which has probably been captured in countless family vacation photos. Choose from 80-plus flavours of Foothills Creamery ice cream and other frozen treats like sundaes and ice cream sandwiches. From burgers and hotdogs to milkshakes and smoothies, Big Moo has something for everyone in the family. Order the 24k Gold Rush Sundae made with vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, and butterscotch topping with a crushed Skor bar and cherry on top.

Pascal's

The Drop Coffee and Tea (Bentley) Spending the day at Gull Lake or Aspen Beach Provincial Park? Hit up The Drop Coffee and Tea, a cute little coffee spot in Bentley for takeout hot and cold drinks or homemade baked goods and snacks on a hot summer day. There’s a small covered deck to enjoy your treats outdoors as you people-watch the hubbub on the town’s main street. Specialties include a Snickerdoodle Latte and a Black Currant Hibiscus Tea Lemonade. The coffee served is by local roaster Birdy Coffee Co. For eats, they also sell Sweet Stix handmade popsicles, sweet and savoury croissants, and pepperoni sticks and jerky.

The Drop

Blindman Brewing

94 Tke the Cake

Eclipse Coffee Roasters (Canmore) For a day in the mountains around Canmore, get your java jolt at Eclipse Coffee Roasters. This specialty coffee roaster, beloved by locals, used to be Rave Coffee and was founded by Dean Smolicz. The single origin coffee beans are sourced from local farms in Brazil, Colombia, Peru, and India. Choose from blends and beans that are categorized as bright, bold, or balanced, and get a bag of the Monsoon Malabar which is full-bodied with chocolate notes and a smoky aftertaste. Keep your eyes peeled for a new roastery, it’s third location in Canmore, to open on Railway Avenue by Crazyweed later this summer. 94 Take the Cake (Okotoks) Instantly Instagram-able, 94 Take the Cake has been attracting a lot of attention over the last few years for its fun black-and-white 2D-style interior made to look like pages out of a colouring book. The cafe and bakery is located in a 100-year-old home in Okotoks and is known for its custom cake designs. For day trippers, this is a great stop before setting off to explore more of southern Alberta. There’s a huge outdoor patio where you can enjoy a hot or cold beverage and fresh brewed Chronicle Coffee. Pair your drink with an assortment of sweet treats like cake pops, cheesecakes, cookies, muffins, scones, pies, and more. 30 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Homestead Bakery photo by George Weber

Marv’s Classic Soda Shop (Black Diamond) Marvin Garriott’s 1950s retro diner and soda shop has been a Foothills staple for more than 20 years in the town of Black Diamond (soon to be known as Diamond Valley in 2023). Visit Marv’s Classic Soda Shop for a dose of nostalgia and peruse the collection of old-fashioned candy and hard-to-find sodas. The collection of antiques and collectibles lining the shelves are a feast for the eyes as is the soda fountain, vintage jukebox and player piano. Cozy into the booths for a shake, soda or malt, and try the country fried chicken. If you’re feeling adventurous, attempt the famous peanut butter burger. Don’t miss the Marvello carbonated ice cream in vanilla and chocolate malt flavours. Homestead Bakery (Fort Macleod) Kimberly Vanden Broek and Julena Schipper are the duo behind this fantastic bakery, most known for its artisan breads and mouth-watering cookies, cakes and pastries, out in historic Fort Macleod. Homestead Bakery’s sourdough bread (try the sprouted grain or rosemary apple sourdough) is made from starter fed with stoneground flour from local grain grower Vangarderen Ranch. They use fresh yeast and both sourdough starter and yeast in their buns and loaves, and the pies are made with local or BC fruit

filling – order the haskap saskatoon pie. Crowd favourites are the chocolate and almond croissants, sticky buns and butterhorns.

Homestead Bakery

Lynda Sea is a writer/editor based in Calgary. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, Westjet Magazine, enRoute and Flare. You can often find her hiking in the Canadian Rockies and eating her way through Alberta.

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DIGGING UP THE DIRT: All you need to know about potatoes and their cookery BY MALLORY FRAYN

POTATO IS A POTATO IS A potato. Or is it? According to Rosemary Wotske of Poplar Bluff Organics, over 6,000 different varieties of potatoes have been identified in the gene bank in Peru, with more wild varieties regularly being discovered. “There’s a tremendous amount of breeding being done, so 6,000 is probably conservative,” she adds. Having obtained her Bachelor of Science in physiology and biochemistry, a Master’s in plant genetics, and having grown potatoes for the past 35 years, Wotske knows better than anyone the diversity that exists when it comes to this staple food source. However, according to both Canadian and 32 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Agria potatoes courtesy Poplar Bluff Organics

American statistics, only about a third of potatoes grown are consumed fresh, with the remainder of crops going to processed applications like French fries. Traditionally, potatoes have been divided into two different categories, starchy potatoes and waxy potatoes. Starchy potatoes, like Russets, have lower water and sugar content, but higher starch, as the name implies. This makes them ideal for applications in which you want the creaminess of the potatoes to shine through, or when you’re aiming for crunch. Starchy potatoes are thus great in everything from mashed potatoes to French fries, or even just a standard baked potato with all the fixings. Waxy potatoes have the opposite

makeup. They are higher in moisture and sugar, while being lower in starch, which allows them to hold their shape better throughout the cooking process. Varieties like fingerling and new potatoes all fall under the waxy category and are great for summer potato salads, or just boiled with butter. If you’re in search of something a bit different, keep an eye out for the Columba potato, a waxier variety that is excellent in potato salads, and has a buttery, almond flavour. While this binary categorization of waxy versus starchy is typically used to classify potatoes as one or the other, Wotske cautions that the continuum between extremely waxy and extremely starchy potatoes is quite long, so you

Courtesy Country Roots Photography

Rosemary Wotske

can’t treat all waxy or all starchy potatoes equally and lump them into one big category. She recommends thinking about it as more of a spectrum, with some varieties, such as Yukon Gold, falling more so in the middle, while others exist at the extremes. Wotske attributes the lack of education and accurate information on potatoes to a couple of different factors. First, she has observed the extent to which consumers tend to make purchasing choices based on aesthetic factors over and above more practical considerations. “I grow some varieties that don’t get commercial

acceptance because they aren’t pretty,” Wotske notes. One of her favourite varieties, the Agria, came to Canada from Germany in the mid-1980s. While it has a vivid, yellow colour, its skin is lackluster and susceptible to blemishes, so it often gets overlooked. It’s a classic case of not being able to judge a book by its cover, because if you can get over the boring exterior, Wotske stands by her claim that Agrias make, “best mash you’ll ever make.” Chefs also love them for roasting, mashing, and even making gnocchi. Another issue Wotske cites is related to consumer education. “I’ve had lots of calls over the years about people associating potato skin colour with makeup, for example, that all red potatoes have to be waxy,” she says, adding that, “Skin colour has absolutely nothing to do with texture.” She believes that the onus has to be on accurate marketing, giving consumers all of the information they need to make informed decisions about what they are eating, so they can better know what application it will be best suited for. Wotske finds it more helpful to label potatoes by their variety name

so that consumers can go back and look for the same variety again, allowing their recipes to be consistent. While all potatoes can’t be treated equally, “if you match the cooking technique to the potato you are using, you get amazing results,” Wotske states. As for the biggest faux pas she has witnessed when it comes to potato cookery, she advises against ever using Russets for potato salad. “They go to mush, and they taste like dirt, why would you inflict that on yourself?”

Columba potatoes courtesy Poplar Bluff Organics

*Keep in mind that these quantities are an estimate and will depend on the size of your pot and your appetite for fries. A more flexible rule would be to cut as many potatoes as will fit into the pot without overfilling it, and to use enough oil to cover, such that all, if not the majority of the fries are submerged to start.

Tahini potato salad Serves 4

454g Columba potatoes, or other waxy potato, skin on ¼ cup (60 mL) tahini paste ¼ cup fresh dill, chopped ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped 1 lemon, zested and juiced (about 2-3 Tbs of juice) 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 shallot, finely sliced 1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1 Tbs whole coriander seeds, toasted and roughly crushed (a mortar and pestle is best for this but if you don’t have one, the back of a frying pan does the trick) 2 Tbs capers, finely chopped To Taste salt and pepper 1. Wash the potatoes to remove any dirt. Bring the potatoes to a boil. Once the water is boiling, heavily salt the water. This aids in thorough seasoning, similar to cooking pasta, so don’t underdo it. Cook until the potatoes yield to a paring knife, about 15 to 20 minutes depending on their size. 2. Once cooked, drain the potatoes, leaving them in the colander in the sink for 3 to 5 minutes to allow some of the moisture to evaporate off. 3. While still warm, toss the potatoes with the remainder of the ingredients, seasoning to taste. Bear in mind that the salad will be served cool or at room temperature, so add more salt than you think you need as the flavours will dampen once it is chilled. 34 Culinaire | July/August 2022

4. The salad can be served warm if desired or can be made in advance and chilled until ready to serve. Garnish with extra parsley and dill before serving, should it tickle your fancy.

Homemade, Cold Fry Method French Fries Serves 4

1 kg Yukon Gold potatoes, or other variety that is in the mid-range between waxy and starchy, skin on About 6 cups (1½ L) vegetable oil (ideally peanut, but any neutral oil with a higher smoke point will do, such as grapeseed)

1. Wash the potatoes to remove any dirt. Cut the potatoes into batonnets, AKA fries, about 6 mm thick. Rinse under cold water to remove any excess starch. 2. Put the potatoes in a large Dutch oven and add oil to cover. Depending on the size of your pot, you may have to do this in multiple batches, but the larger the cooking vessel, the better (because no one wants a skimpy portion of fries). Also, be careful not to overfill as the oil will expand once heated and you don’t want the pot to overflow. 3. Cook on high heat until it reaches a rolling boil, about 5 to 10 minutes. Continue cooking the works, without stirring, for another 12 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes have visibly softened and are just starting to crisp up around the edges. 4. At this point you can stir, to loosen up any potato clumps and allow for even cooking. Just be careful, especially if you’re working with a full pot, as hot oil is hot, and you don’t want to splash any around or burn yourself. Cook for another 5 to 10 minutes until golden and crisp. 5. Remove the potatoes from the pot using a slotted spoon and transfer onto a baking sheet lined with paper towel, to soak up any excess oil. Transfer the fries to a large mixing bowl and toss with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve hot with ketchup, aioli, or any other dips of choice. NOTE: If you’re worried about doing this inside given the grease, you can always cook the fries outdoors on the side burner of your grill. Just be careful that splattering oil doesn’t fly into the grill itself and start a grease fire (i.e. keep the lid of the grill closed to be safe).

Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.

Summer Spirits BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

ummer has been on our minds since winter reared its chilly head a short time ago. With the pandemic fading ever so slowly into the rear-view mirror, so many of us are making plans to get out to visit or go away on a little vacation. The cost of living increases might put a damper on things, so this month, we tried to find a few bottles that taste just as good at home on a hot day in a mixed drink or a cocktail (break out the blender for all those slushy drinks), as well as a few Canadian-made whiskies which will hit the spot as the sun dips down while the bonfire is just getting started.

Bearface Wilderness Series Matsutake Release 01, Canada A wild (no pun intended- or maybe it is…) whisky showing off a rather unique and inspired ingredient. BC sourced, and quite scarce Matsutake mushrooms. Initially, the nose shows off with mild spicy tones but a pungent, clean, almost rustic character from the mushrooms which towards the finish lends a richness, a textural, earthy close to a fine, wellbalanced spirit. Something special, and something very new under the sun. CSPC +864054 Around $55-60 Nickel 9 Distillery Island Diaz Spiced Rum, Canada A fine example of modern, low sweetness spiced rum coming from the Nickel 9 Distillery. Spicy and rife with molasses and gingerbread notes with a lingering, bitter finish that ties it all together, it’s the right sort of rum to elevate mixers without making things saccharine or unbalanced. Would work very well in a rum punch, or even to take things in a different direction in a mojito or slushy drink. CSPC +867153 $46-48 Signal Hill Canadian Whisky St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador Light, rounded, and uber-smooth, Signal Hill is made from double-distilled corn whiskey and pot-distilled barley whiskey, each bringing its own characteristics before developing more complex flavours from three-barrel aging: new White Oak casks, first-run Bourbon Casks, and Canadian Whiskey Casks all play their part too, resulting in a whiskey that’s deliciously sweet, with brown sugar, granola, and pecan flavours. Just drink and enjoy it – all of it - it’s that easy! CSPC +800776 $39-45

Kalani Coconut Liqueur, Mexico We don’t cover a lot of liqueurs on these pages, but this summer, we love to encourage people to enjoy the sunshine, and if an actual, for-real beach vacation isn’t in the cards, it’s a good time to break out the blender and make some pina coladas in the backyard. Kalani is a very sweet liqueur, but tip to toes it’s all about intense but clean, lightly toasted coconut flavours with a rum base which will definitely dial up your umbrella drinks. CSPC +793313 Around $35 Ardbeg Distillery Ardcore Isle of Islay, Scotland What can I say? If we share a sense of humour (and maybe origin/longevity) you’ll agree that this is the funniest and best marketing you’ve seen in over a decade! OMG is this clever, a special limited release to celebrate Ardbeg Day 2022, made with roasted black malt - an unconventional choice and a first for Ardbeg – and producing an oily whisky with fruity orange and pineapple notes, along with dark chocolate and of course, smoke. Dress up punk with your mates – and drink this in style! CSPC +1193013 Around $170-180 Tanqueray Blackcurrant Royale Gin London, England We’ve been waiting for a year for this to arrive in Canada, and now this gin-based spirit from Tanqueray is here in time for summer! Distilled with four classic London Dry botanicals - juniper, coriander, angelica, and liquorice, along with added French blackcurrants, vanilla, and wait for it… black orchid - you’ll find a fruity, rich and viscous, cocktail pretty much ready in your glass – just add ice, or top up with tonic water and lemon, or sparkling wine for a super easy and summery Kir Royale and French 75. CSPC +862079 $32-35 July/August 2022 | Culinaire 35

Alberta Brewing Starts Getting Noticed BY DAVID NUTTALL

36 Culinaire | July/August 2022

f you wanted any proof that Alberta breweries are beginning to make an impact outside of their own province, you need look no further than the Canadian Brewing Awards and Conference that was held in May in Calgary. Simply staging the event in Alberta for the first time is a good indicator; in its twenty-year history, this annual industryonly gathering resided mainly in Ontario and Quebec, but in recent years has moved around Canada. The Canadian Brewing Awards are presented to winners from "Canadian majority-owned breweries and beer brands of all sizes (who) compete in a Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) sanctioned blind tasting determining the best beers in 58 style categories". They also tally up each brewery's total points to bestow the Brewery of the Year Award. That two Alberta breweries won the award in 2020 (Common Crown) and 2021 (The Establishment), both of Calgary, is another sign local producers are starting to be recognized (Squamish BC's Howe Sound Brewing won this year). In addition, Alberta took home 31 medals, including nine golds, out of a total of 194 awards. Winning 16% of the medals bodes well considering only 10% of Canada's breweries call Alberta home. Compare this to 2013, just before craft brewing started to take off in this province, when Alberta won two of the 114 medals available. Quantity and quality are rising in tandem. While judging and awards are one matter, the conference itself helps gauge the zeitgeist of today’s beer market. Two days of seminars and traipsing through the exhibitor hall gives an indication where Canadian brewing is headed. Whether it’s ingredients, packaging, brewing systems and other equipment, financial planning, or diversifying production, breweries continue to evolve and expand their role and output. A glance at some of the exhibitors and a review of the speakers’ sessions can give an insight to upcoming trends. It's no secret that beer variety now rules brewing. The days of breweries with two or three core beers and the odd seasonal are long gone. The fickle public now demands multiple beer styles covering the gamut of what ales and lagers can be. This requires a steady supply of different hops, malts, yeasts, and adjuncts. Numerous companies have emerged in the past decade to provide ingredients not just for breweries but also

for other alcohol manufacturers. Remember, much of what goes into beer comes from farms, many of which are just small family-run businesses. This is especially true in the case of hop farms, as their acreage is much less than grain farms. Hops are both expanding in varieties grown and how they are packaged and delivered to breweries. Farmers are almost required to plant new hop varietals to feed the diversity of beers being brewed. The first purpose-bred hop varieties appeared just over a century ago, and even as recently as ten years ago, there were about 80 commercial varieties. Now there are closer to 200 different kinds, which provide a litany of different flavour profiles. These hops are also being packaged in different formats beyond just whole leaf and pellets; liquid concentrate and lupulin-enriched pellets (Cryo Hops ®) are now available that help enhance the flavour and aroma of the beer while increasing yield. To a lesser extent, yeast falls in the same boat, except its development comes from labs. As a sadly ignored component of beer (how often have you ever seen the label name what variety of yeast was used in the beer?), it can be just as important as hops for flavour and aroma. Brewers are looking for more than variety, they require reliable, quality yeast which performs consistently from batch to batch. Also, while the distinct characteristics of yeast are a key component, breweries also order other products such as bacteria (for sours), nutrients, adjuncts, enzymes, and laboratory necessities like sensory kits. The importance of chemistry’s part in brewing

cannot be overlooked. As craft brewing expands its repertoire of beer styles, the demand for a greater variety of malt grows with it. As the largest component (next to water) in beer, the focus going forward seems to be on the locality of malt suppliers. More maltsters are appearing in grain growing areas to provide small batch specialty malts that formerly needed to be imported from continents away. In addition, larger suppliers are now adding more regional warehouses to shorten the distance from farm to brewery. Almost every part of the brewing chain now has more branches than ever. With over 10,000 breweries opening in the past couple of decades in all areas of North America, it just makes sense for producers to be closer to buyers. Indeed, many suppliers are now built for one-stop shopping; you can get all your ingredients and other brewery essentials from one location, as opposed to using multiple sources. There is much more going on in brewing world as it grows and progresses. Breweries will continue to churn out an amazing variety of beer, but will also explore other avenues. We will continue to examine more of these pursuits in upcoming articles as we see what direction many of the local brewers are headed as society slowly returns to some semblance of normality. David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed. July/August 2022 | Culinaire 37

MAKING THE CASE

Wines to Grill For… PART II I

By TOM FIRTH

was reminded this very morning how great it is in the summer months in Calgary (like it or not, I am in Calgary and most of my mornings start here). The clouds are typically few, the sun is shining, and a gentle breeze is usually bringing the scents and sounds of nature to my backyard. Why on earth would I spend more time than I have to inside when I can be out? The same holds true in the evenings, and I would much rather enjoy a meal, a drink, or some company outside knowing that in a few short months, it’s not going to be so great for this simple pleasure that recharges the soul – though I can do without the pollen. Once again, these summer months, I want to share more wines that simply put – taste much better outside. Whether it’s for a backyard barbecue, a little take out, or even just a bowl of chips and a nice glass or two. Wine, no matter how seriously you take it, is really just about a moment in time, one that encapsulates the harvest, the vintage, the soul of its place, and ideally, brings us together in a memorable moment. Get out there – enjoy. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Umberto Cesari 2021 Costa di Rose Sangiovese Rosé, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

The sort of rosé that almost demands to be assigned a single word to describe it, and that word is “elegant”, soft and expressive with strawberries on the vine, citrus and floral aromas, while on the palate, a pinch of sweetness and mild candied notes balance out the fruit. Overall, a completely smashable, summerfriendly glass or two to enjoy outside. Serve chilled, but not too cold. CSPC +843945 $25-27

Salentein 2019 Reserve Malbec, Uco Valley, Argentina

A long time favourite malbec producer of mine, making a wine that checks off all the boxes for good malbec, but at the same time more of a dark, plum fruit, and even better is a strong and layered floral component offset by some lovely dried herb character. Big, really big on the palate with tannins to match, I’d be just as likely to match this against a homemade bacon cheeseburger as I would a prime rib. CSPC +755804 $28-32

Undurraga 2019 Terroir Hunter Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo, Chile

Not that long ago, Chile made a bold play to start making some of the best cabernet sauvignon in the world and they managed it quite well. Excellent site selection, high altitude vineyards, and yes, the talent is a big part, all come together here in the Terroir Hunter Series. Cassis and cherry fruits dominate, with lilac blossoms, cola, spice and some silky, refined acids. An exceptional bottle of very well priced cabernet. CSPC +546333 $28-31

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

38 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Gil Family 2018 Atteca Old Vine Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain

Grenache (or garnacha as it’s known in Spain) is one of the greats, and is best known in Spain and parts of France for polished, spicy reds that aren’t too heavy on the palate. Here, deep raspberry fruits with subtle strawberry characters, dried herb and a touch of jamminess on the nose move into an intense, fruit driven, but spicy and not too tannic flavour profile. Loving the acids, and balance, and this would really shine with pork sausage, cured meats, or ribs – saucy, beautiful ribs. CSPC +729032 $25-29

Pascual Toso 2019 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina

1884 2019 Estate Grown Malbec Mendoza, Argentina

Zorzal 2019 Terroir Unico Malbec Tupungato, Argentina

Tio Pepe 2020 en Rama Fino, Jerez, Spain

Domaine Houchart 2021 Cotes du Provence Rosé, Provence, France

House of Smith 2019 Substance “Cs” Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, United States

Granted, we might not think of cabernet sauvignon when we think about Argentina’s red wines, but many of the same factors that work oh-so-well for malbec work here too. From the reserve line at Pascual Toso, a cabernet that leans towards darker fruit, olive and herb notes with a clean pepper spiciness. Tannins are certainly big and chewy, but all the better for that striploin or flank steak. CSPC +238329 $22-25

A truly exciting and nearly unheard of sherry that is utterly worth trying. First off, fino sherry is bone dry, lightly fortified, and meant to be served well-chilled. Yes, it’s fortified, but fino is a remarkably delicate, almost fragile wine not meant for aging either. En Rama is essentially a cask-style, unfiltered fino showing off almond, toasty notes with citrus and saline qualities. Stunning with good quality almonds, sushi, or salty snacks. Available in half bottles too for the cautious. CSPC +925016 $29-33

Mission Hill 2020 Reserve Meritage, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A Bordeaux-style blend from the quintessential Okanagan producer – Mission Hill, you know this is going to be good. Centred around cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon with merlot and petit verdot, all these varieties are bringing something to the table – namely a smooth and rich blend with top-shelf balance and expression. Very, very tasty, and that intense, floral and herb finish is going to work very well with that fancy, protein-rich meal you have planned. CSPC +808224 $30-34

A consistently good malbec and regular winner at the Alberta Beverage Awards, 1884 manages to show off all the nuance that good malbec has. Densely laden with freshly rinsed berry fruits, a strong floral character and a little of that dusty herbal note called garrigue. Firm tannins and big fruits all come together so well, with appropriate acids which want just a little fat to go with that grilled protein. CSPC +770925 $19-21

Simply put, there is no greater place than Provence to enjoy a glass of rosé – of course, other than a garden or wherever else good friends gather. A zesty blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah, and tibouren, this treat is almost an electric pink in the glass, but completely alive with citrus and berry characters and a zippy finish in balance with this very dry expression. Cheese, salads, or salty snacks would be great here. CSPC +738568 $22-25

Les Vins Bonhomme 2016 El Grand Bonhomme Tempranillo, Castilla y Leon, Spain

One of the top offerings we see from the Bonhomme family, El Grand Bonhomme is an excellent representation of the tempranillo grape, in a slightly more fruity, full bodied expression. Lush, ripe fruits of cherry and cassis with a sleek floral aroma, it’s on the palate that it all comes together with abundant spice, earth, and coffee-like tannins. Perhaps a touch young, I’d pair it with flank steak or even homemade steak frites or the like (don’t forget the fries!). CSPC +667394 $33-36

A deftly made malbec balancing those dark plum and berry fruits with a deep, loamy earthiness and that dusty, dried herb aroma great malbec has. A tightly wound, chewy wine on the palate with firm tannins, and a polished, flowery finish. A standout wine that fans of the grape should enjoy. At the table, red meat will of course be best, but this could also work with mushrooms or richer veggie dishes and stews. CSPC +864827 $26-27

Washington State cabernet? Yes please! Cherry fruits with menthol tobacco, cedar, capsicum, and a mild brininess and smoke on the nose lead into a full-bore, complex, bold cabernet with earthy fruits, a lot of cedar and spicy tones, and some serious, steak friendly acids. Though I will say this is damn good with a nice cheese board and charcuterie. CSPC +782383 $24-27

Heimann 2019 SXRD Szekszárd, Hungary

Miles away from the Szeksardi of old, or for those of us that remember the craze for “Bull’s Blood” of Eger, the wines of Hungary have been a-changing for the better in leaps and bounds. A blend of mostly kekfrankos with a smattering of other grapes, it’s surprisingly light in body with abundant spice characters, wild berry fruits, and a pleasing earthiness. A fun wine, and a little off the beaten path, this is going to be a star with smoked meats, good smokies, and ribs. CSPC +863842 $25-28 on most shelves

July/August 2022 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . . Joe Beef Spicy Carrot Mustard

Consistently up there in top restaurant rankings, Montreal’s Joe Beef also has its own range of pantry products, including spices, sauces, syrup and ketchup – and here’s the latest offering – Spicy Carrot Mustard. Bright orange and delicious, amp up your roast meats, burgers, brats, and dogs, and try a dash in your daubes, in your grilled cheese, vinaigrettes and dressings, deviled eggs, and of course with chicken, pork and rabbit! 212 mL $10 at Blush Lane, Italian Centre Shops, Freson Bros, and Meuwlys. Summer Fizz : Over 100 Recipes for Refreshing Sparkling Drinks

Red Fox: The Secret Ingredient

Beloved by many of the province’s top restaurants, Red Fox Fungi grow gourmet Chestnut, Lions Mane, and Oyster mushrooms, on their farm near Strathmore, and they fine grind them to a powder for umami-full seasonings too! Available as Everything Everyday Blend - with mustard, thyme, and spices; Savory BBQ - with brown sugar, garlic, and spices; Spicy - with chili flakes and dehydrated kimchi, each 50 g shaker contains about 200g of gourmet mushrooms dehydrated! $11, see redfoxfungi.ca.

It’s a common observation, we really don’t enjoy enough sparkling wine or champagne – seemingly preferring to save it for a “special occasion”, which is bloody ridiculous. Get out there, pop that cork! Nothing beats the heat like a sparkling beverage, and Summer Fizz gets the grey matter thinking about some clever and refreshing ideas that might just use up some of that cluttered liquor cabinet – and at the same time, up your cocktail game this summer. Ryland, Peters & Small $20 Staub 34 cm Cast Iron Double Handle Skillet

We’ve been putting this skillet through its paces, and what do we love about it? Everything! From Alsace, in eastern France, Staub manages to make products that not only look beautiful but are ultimately functional and versatile too. Our paella was perfect; enamelled cast iron retains heat so you can reduce the heat on your stove when cooking, and it stays hot longer on the table. It’s going to be well-used - this skillet fits perfectly in our toaster oven too! $250-310 widely available from good cookware stores.

La Paella: Recipes for Delicious Spanish Rice and Noodle Dishes

With perfect timing as we were deciding a paella to make in the skillet, ‘La Paella’ turned up, with 24 paella, creamy rice dishes, and baked rice dish recipes! We chose Seafood Paella with Chorizo (p.22) but were sorely tempted by oh-so many others. Author Louise Pickford also includes recipes for fideua (like paella but with snipped vermicelli noodles), hearty rice soups, fried dishes - do try Fried Paella with Alioli, (p.104) with your leftovers - and sweet dishes to finish. Ryland, Peters & Small $20. 40 Culinaire | July/August 2022

Martin Picard Au Pied de Cochon Habanero Maple BBQ Sauce

A rare breed amongst barbecue sauces, this one celebrating the famous Quebec restaurant, and sharing a bare wiff of the talents of chef Martin Picard. An earthy, pungent sauce with apple sweetness, and a stronger, vinegar driven approach with A-1 or HP stylings. But it’s the habanero that give this one the charm – softened ever so gently by the maple. A fun sauce that will spice up your ribs or grilled meats if that is your thing. $12 at Blush Lane, Italian Centre Shops, and specialty stores.

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with

Paul Poutanen BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

s a youngster growing up in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Paul Poutanen was fascinated by magicians. “I always wanted to know how they did it, and that's why I went into engineering,” he says, “I wanted to know how stuff worked.” He studied mechanical engineering in Manitoba, and in 1984 started working in Wainwright as an engineer in the oil industry. “At one point, I ended up working 56 hours without sleep. You figure out life is not so much what you want to do, but what you don't want to do - and I didn't want to have to stay up for two and a half days straight,” he laughs. Poutanen went back to school and studied industrial engineering: “Those are the guys with the stopwatch timing people, and that’s the reason I can run my plant by myself as I'm very efficient. Do you know another distillery that's got less than two people?” He was working in a steel plant near Winnipeg in 1988 when he came to Calgary for the Olympics. “I loved it, and loved the people, so I ended up working in management consulting here for six years, and then decided to travel.” says Poutanen. “I was in my thirties; I bought a van and made it to 41 different countries in a year and a half.” On his travels, Poutenan had seen people cutting down telephone poles to

42 Culinaire | July/August 2022

steal the copper, and figured wireless was the future. He worked with WiLAN who, in the 90s, came up with the patent for wi-fi. “I did trade shows all over the world demonstrating that you could send data through the air. I'm not the scientist that came up with it, I was the guy that made it work.” When the hi-tech bubble burst, Poutanen developed a location-based game, ‘Swordfish’. “This was 12 years before Pokémon GO came out and way too early,” he explains. “In those days there were 10,000 different phones. You didn't know if an app was going to work on this or that phone, so I came up with a new company, ‘Mob For Hire’. We recruited 90,000 people around the world to test phone applications for other app companies.” In 2017, the distilling industry was opening up and Poutanen changed tack, opening Tippa Distillery. “I'm proud that I’ve saved over five million litres of water going into sewers by recycling my cooling water that condenses the steam from the distillery,” he says. “It warms the plant in winter as well.” His Lovebird Gin, Wood Duck Oaked Gin, and Magpie Rum were taking off when Covid hit - it was time to pivot again, and he created Alchemist Vinegar. “Vinegar is heavy, so shipping costs are expensive, and it's cheaper to go with a local product delivered directly to your store.

I'm doing some markets this summer where I'm only selling vinegar. I’ve tried 32 different vinegars now, and the beautiful thing about farmer's markets is that you get instant feedback. It's been a fun journey so far.” What bottle has Poutanen saved for a special occasion? “I just downsized from a house to an apartment, and got rid of 1200 LP records because they're heavy and I didn't want to move them,” he says, “and that was same with the booze that I had.” However, he did save a bottle from his first batch of Lovebird Gin, and was recently offered $200 for it from a gin collector, but declined as it took so much work to research and set up the distillery, as well as the botanicals for his gins. “I do believe that it’s truly the smoothest gin on earth. I say that as it's actually a mechanical engineering design in viscosity that makes it exceedingly smooth,” Poutanen explains. “The way they test viscosity is to drop a marble through the liquid and time how long it takes to get to the bottom. Mine drops very fast, and I’m proud of that.” Will he ever open this bottle? “I'm getting towards the latter end of my life, and I've often said when I go, I'd like to have a wake, just have a party – and open this bottle then.”

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Culinaire #11.3 (July-August 2022)

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