Culinaire #12.4 (September 2023)

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S S E P T E M B E R 2 02 3

The Endless Days of Summer | Welcoming the Alberta Harvest

MODERN STEAK P R E S E N T S

KOBE - JPN A5 - USA - AUS - CANADA

MONTH OF OCTOBER SECOND FLOOR AT STEPHEN AVENUE

M O R E I N F O AT W W W. M O D E R N S T E A K . C A

MODERN STEAK TAKES GREAT PRIDE IN BEING ONE OF THE SELECT FEW THAT OFFER CERTIFIED KOBE BEEF RIB EYE, STRIPLOIN & FILET. THE SECRET BEHIND THIS PRESTIGE CUT OF MEAT IS THE UMAMI FLAVOUR THAT’S EMBEDDED IN THE “SHIMOFURI” MARBLING.

contents

Volume 12 / No. 4 / September 2023

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs News from Alberta’s culinary scene

12

10 Book Reviews

Prairie by Dan Clapson and Twyla Campbell and Love and Lemons: Simple Feel Good Food by Jeanine Donofrio

12 Chefs’ Tips and Tricks Seasonally Subtle

38 Making the Case

24

For the endless days of Summer

26

40 Etcetera…

What’s new?

42 Open That Bottle

With Vince Parent of SIPS Wine and Beer, and Avenida Mercantile

29 16 Off the Menu

Maple Wasabi Vinaigrette from Sunterra’s Chef Mo

18 Snack Attack

Ideas and recipes for building balanced snacks

by Natalie Findlay

ON THE COVER

Summer in Alberta, what do you picture in your mind? Driving around, for us it’s canola’s endless golden fields of small yellow flowers waving in the breeze, the true “Made in Canada” success story. Many thanks to Katarzyna Kowalewska, of Live Your Dream Photography, for her ultimate Alberta photograph keeping the image alive in our minds.

22 No Ordinary Cup of Joe:

Slow Cooker Beef Carnitas with Coffee and Cumin

by Renée Kohlman

24 Thinking Outside the Box (or Keg!)

The sky's the limit for fledgling cocktail company byHendo

by Lucy Haines

26 So Many Choices of Olive Oil in Canada

So how can you tell if you’re getting a good one?

by Shellley Boettcher

29 Single Use Plastics?

Not so fantastic!

by Tom Firth

34 Up, Up IPA!… and beyond The variety of IPAs shows no sign of slowing down

by David Nuttall

36 September Spirits

Tipples for patio days and cooler evenings

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson September 2023 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Welcome back …to Alberta if you’ve been away, to your desk if you’re back to work, or school if you’re studying (or teaching!).

It’s never long enough, is it? I start with great plans once our July/August issue has uploaded to print the third week of June, though I feel the need to get the chores out of the way first and get everything in order, and then I can relax… but I’ve come to the conclusion that summer is like an avocado – wait for a break until pretty much everything’s crossed off the to-do list, wait until I’ve completed preparations for Q3 and Q4, wait until my inbox is unrecognisably short and nobody’s waiting on me… and, too late it’s September!

It’s been a fun and action-packed time, with eight new restaurant openings, two radio segments on 770 CHQR, two

television segments on Global TV (do be sure to watch at 8:20 am September 9 for my next one!), judging three excellent cooking competitions – the Calgary Police versus the Calgary Fire Department cooking competition at Stampede Kitchen Theatre is always one of my favourites to judge! And of course - the Alberta Beverage Awards, which is no mean feat – it was ginormous and a huge success, and ran so smoothly mostly because of the very capable and competent team behind the scenes, to whom we are truly grateful.

One of the highlights of the summer was a surprise weekend in Yellowknife

for their first ever NWT culinary festival, to pair some of the dinners with wine and speak about the wine and pairings at the events. There’s a terrific community spirit, and I loved to see how the chefs really make the most of their local ingredients – ingredients that may be less familiar here. Many dishes utilised chaga (a type of mushroom), crowberries, bison and muskox feature strongly on menus, with whitefish, pickerel, and lake trout instead of salmon, and boreal greens. I’m already looking forward to next year’s festival.

And now it’s time for our annual wine and culinary tour, this year to northeast Spain, and I’m already keeping my eyes open for Holiday Gift Guide ideas!

Cheers

Linda, Editor-in-Chief

No time? No problemo!

Enjoy heat and serve Italian comfort food made from scratch, daily.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

FFER SED TO O A E L P E SIVE WE’R L-INCLU L A R E H ANOT

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Tara Zenon 403-472-1345 tara@culinairemagazine.ca

Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Shelley Boettcher, Natalie Findlay Lucy Haines, Dong Kim Renée Kohlman, Katarzyna Kowalewska David Nuttall, Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors

TOUR Y R A N I L U C WINE & HEAST SPAIN OF NOR T 5 , 2 0 2 4 JUNE M AY 2 7 -

Shelley Boettcher

Shelley is an awardwinning Calgarybased writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She’s the author of the best-selling books, Uncorked: The Definitive Guide to Alberta's Best Wines $25 and Under, and splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits, or Instagram @shelleyboettcher.

Renée Kohlman

Renée is a professional cook and baker, freelance food writer and columnist for the Saskatoon StarPhoenix.

She's also the author of two best-selling cookbooks: All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions, 2017) and her most recent, Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions 2021). Renée lives in Saskatoon and you can find her every weekend at the Farmers’ Market where she sells her jumbo gourmet cookies.

Natalie Findlay

After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes.

Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, photographer and health coach, and is loving every minute of it.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

2 OPTIONAL NIGHTS IN MADRID, 5 NIGHTS IN BARCELONA, AND 4 NIGHTS IN LA RIOJA Guided private visits to wineries of the famous regions of Rioja, Penedes, and Catalonia Guided walking tours of: • Essential Madrid Highlights • Historical Laguardia • Bilbao – private Pintxo Safari Walking Food Tour • Barcelona – Gaudi experience and Barcelona Highlights • Private Barcelona Cultural Immersion Food and Wine Walking Dinner Tour • Private Montserrat walking tour and scenic nature walk • Classic Spanish paella lunch in the fields • Visit to Zaragoza with free time to wander • Visit to Logrono with free time to wander • And much more…

EXPERIENCE THE BEAUT Y OF EUROPE...

Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to be included in bi-monthly update emails and to hear of future trips and dinners

VINE & DINE SERIES

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S

Congratulations to the Bearspaw Lions Farmers’ Market on their 30th anniversary! Check out more than 100 vendors selling food, produce, and items baked or grown in Alberta, on Sundays before October 1 between 10am-2pm.

25240 Nagway Road. bearspawlions.com There’s no stopping Ribeye Butcher Shop! With three locations in Edmonton and one in St. Albert, the latest addition to the family is in Sherwood Park at Unit 630 - 205 Festival Way. You’ll find Japanese A5 wagyu and local dry-aged steaks, poultry and game, as well as prepared foods and items from 17 small Edmonton food producers. Watch out Calgary they’re headed here soon, but meanwhile Ribeye offers province-wide shipping.

Seven days 10am-7pm, ribeyebutcher.ca And there’s no stopping Good Earth Coffeehouse! They’ve opened their 28th coffeehouse in Calgary at the new Bridge at Bridgeland, 65 9 Street NE - a community gathering place to enjoy ethically sourced coffee and fresh, wholesome food (and our faves, Very Berry Bran Muffins and Broccoli Cheese Scones!).

Aalto is now open in Pyramid Lake Lodge, 6 k north of downtown Jasper.

Make sure to snag a seat next to one of the many big windows to take in the beautiful views over Pyramid Lake while you dine on chef de cuisine Shane Rutledge’s elevated regional “lake food”. Aalto serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and from 11am-5pm they offer a grazing menu which includes a stunning shareable land and sea board with expertly smoked and 6 Culinaire | September 2023

cured meats and fish. Don’t miss it!

8am-9pm seven days.

Brazil-based Oakberry has arrived in Calgary, with a pop-up location in the Brookfield Place courtyard (open until end of September), and a new location inside The District at Beltline. Their healthy organic açai bowls and smoothies are gluten- lactose- and GMO-free. Just choose your size, and add your choice of fruit, and toppings such as granola, chia seeds, cacao nibs and more. oakberry.com Tiger Sugar have just opened their second Alberta location at 10075 109 Street NW in Edmonton. They launched six years ago in Taichung, Taiwan, and have now achieved cult status for Boba (bubble tea) worldwide as the original creators of the "Tiger Stripe" Black Sugar Drink. Seven days from 11:30am. tigersugaralberta.com My Little Italia is a new 25-seat restaurant opened in Calgary’s Mission area at 2015 4 Street SW, run by chefs Miran Won and Kevin McGill, who met while working in the kitchen at Centini Restaurant. Won makes her seven types of pasta, breads (the milk buns are delicious!) and desserts, from scratch every morning while McGill focuses on super flavourful sauces and stocks. They’re putting their own creative twists on traditional Italian dishes for extra flavour, such as peeled, pickled tomatoes with the caprese salad, and creamy carbonara arancini. Generous portions and terrific value prices. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Wednesdays.

Reservations essential. mylittleitalia.com

Just up the road, Class Clown Hamburgers have opened in the old Burger Inn location, at 1711 4 Street SW. The brainchild of Xian Fullen and Noel Sweetland, it’s unpretentious, with 80s-style diner decor and California-style burger food – good food and good value!

Sauces are all made in-house, and there’s a choice of five big and beefy burgers with quality Alberta chuck and brisket ground every day and “smashed” for crispiness, two chicken and two fish burgers, and a lentil/pea veggie burger, all served in “squishy buttered buns”. Choose from four types of crinkle-cut fries (get the loaded “Super Duper Fries!”), and wash it all down with local beer or a natural wine – yes, they’re trying to demystify it.

And expect things to get a little messy – in a good way! 11-11, closed Monday. classclown.ca Chef Greg Sweeney is the man behind the dishes at Edmonton’s new Arbour, recently opened in the former Famoso spot at 10421 82 Avenue. His small menu of robust flavours and shareable dishes, inspired by his extensive travels, is getting rave reviews, particularly the butterpoached radishes in black vinegar with salsa macha; his veggie leek, mushroom, and jalapeño pea puree croquettes; and chicken liver mousse with his sourdough focaccia. A couple of salads and five lovely pizzas round out your choices, along with a curated wine, cocktail, and local beer list.

11:30-late, closed Mondays. arbouryeg.ca Four Dogs Brewing has opened in Calgary’s Beltline at 1205 1 Street SW, and it’s canine-friendly! You can pop them into plush, mini-egg swing chairs and along a featured wall beside human-sized swing chairs, and you can snap a Polaroid to add to “Our Pack” photo wall. Four beers are available in pints or as a flight (served in

glasses placed inside a dog bowl with a side of popcorn!), along with two cocktails.

Cans are available to purchase, with 25 cents from each supporting the Alberta Animal Rescue Crew Society. Open seven days, fourdogs.ca And Calgary has another new brewery!

After four and a half years of contract brewing, Evil Corporation has opened its bricks-and-mortar location at 1220 20 Avenue SE. Alberta's most sinful small barrel batches has a tongue-in-cheek mission of world domination through quality craft beer. The opening tap list includes six Evil beers, cider and nonalcoholic drinks, and snacks of pasties, sausage rolls, pretzels and nuts. Seven days from noon. evilcorpbrewing.com Edmonton has a new taqueria - Carne Asada Mexican Taqueria is now open at 10508 Jasper Avenue, with a small menu of just four super-stuffed tacos – steak, pork, chicken, and mushroom, and Campechano with chorizo added. It’s a no-gimmick approach, with a few sides and alcohol-free drinks. 11am-7pm, closed Sundays. carneasada.ca Calgary’s Cafe Alchemist has revealed their new concept Alchemist Bistro! Currently only open Saturday evenings from 6-9pm at the café location, 850 2 Street SW, you’re in for a super elevated experience from two engineers-turned-chefs, Sam Ovoici and Taylor Moon, who are getting creative in the kitchen and serving up some beautifully conceived dishes. We loved their take on melon and prosciutto with peach salmorejo, their branzino with dill and lemon ice cream, and the lamb cooked in coconut milk with mango sauce

is a masterpiece! With only 14 tables for two and one sitting, expect to book well in advance. cafealchemist.com/bistro Jerusalem Shawarma have opened a second Edmonton location at 1297 Windermere Way SW only 15 months after heading north! You’ll find their everpopular hummus, falafel, beef and chicken shawarma, and salads, 10-10pm every day. jerusalem-edmonton.com Alberta indigenous chef and cookbook author Shane Chartrand has joined The Maple Leaf restaurant in Banff, with a new à la carte feature menu exploring the reawakening of Indigenous cuisine, created to honour his culture and traditions. Try the superb cinnamon-cured salmon appetizer, bison tenderloin, cornmeal-crusted rainbow trout and more at The Maple Leaf, 137 Banff Avenue, and see Chef Chartrand’s full menu at banffmapleleaf.com.

Community Natural Foods has a new store in Edmonton’s Old Strathcona district at 7917 104 Street NW. As well as organic produce, meat and dairy, and a broad selection of grocery items, there are more than 150 bulk items including

a selection of alternative sweeteners, flours, and keto/paleo baking mixes, and you can bring your own clean bags and containers to fill with any of the bulk products. Big supporters of Edmonton Food Bank, Celiac Association, Fringe Festival, Edmonton Pride and Folk Fest, and local non-profits, the store and café are open seven days 9am-9pm, communitynaturalfoods.com After Windermere in Edmonton, Airdrie, and Stony Plain, Alberta now has its fourth Wingin’ It franchise at 1126 Kensington Road NW, in Calgary.

Choose from 115 flavours of wings, boneless or bone-in (or cauli), breaded or plain, or go for fish n chips, ribs, burgers, nachos and more. On a spice level scale of 1-5, the NFOD (No Fear of Death) is a 10 and requires a waiver!

Seven days to 11pm. wingnit.ca A little further west, The Lodge has now opened in the former 1918 Tap and Table space, at 1918 Kensington Road NW, below the Royal Canadian Legion Branch #264. It’s a comfortable, family restaurant (yes, there’s a kid’s menu too!) created as a traditional, cosy mountain lodge, owned by restaurant professionals, Emilie Fortin and two Chads – Taylor and McCormick. The menu was created by consensus (as in “Best Friend’s Bowl”, which we really enjoyed!) with the team’s favourite foods, all made in house, and it’s full of familiar, comforting dishes and some from family recipes too. It’s simple September 2023 | Culinaire 7

8

food, done well at accessible prices – and it’s done very well; our cheese and beer fondue hit the spot. Cocktails are done well too! Open seven days from 11am, with an “apres (happy) hour” from 3:18-6:21pm, and weekend brunch. thelodge1918.com Edmonton’s Century Hospitality Group has opened Stingray, a new casual Japanese restaurant in Crestwood, at 9682 142 Street NW. It’s a great menu, especially if you’re sharing with friends; there are traditional sushi, sashimi, salads, bowls, and kushiyaki dishes as well as some fun takes, like Shaka Shaka Wedges - crispy spiced potato wedges in a bag with wasabi ketchup, Shishito Pepper Roulette, and yum – deviled miso soy marinaded tamago (eggs)! There’s a good selection of Japanese spirit cocktails and an extensive sake and whisky list. Seven days 11am-late, from 3pm on Sundays. centuryhospitality.com/stingray And there are two more new restaurants in Edmonton’s Crestwood! Happy and Olive is a collaboration between the folks from Red Ox Inn, Canteen, and The Wired Cup, and it’s going to be very long days for them with a café menu from 7am, followed by casual lunch and dinner menus, as well as a small happy hour menu from 2-5pm! 9640 142 Street. happyandolive.ca And Edmonton chef Levi Biddlecombe’s Backstairs Burger is back with a bricks and mortar location at 11010 51 Avenue NW, serving up the much-acclaimed elevated burgers, tots, wings, crack fries, shakes and more from 11am until sold out.

8 Culinaire | September 2023

9

10

8 You’ll find expertly crafted cocktails and vegan bites at the new Magpie in Calgary’s East Village, in the ex-Yardarm spot at 535 8 Avenue SE. Cook and baker (and Highline Brewing part owner), Jordan McKibben, has teamed up with Josh Ruck (ex-Milk Tiger) to create a dark and intimate space with good vibes – and fabulous classic cocktails (some only $10 from 5-7pm). There’s a small menu of plant-based bites such as muhammara and hummus with pita, steam buns, dumplings, a veggie banh mi and ‘lobster’ roll, cookies, and lovely black cloth napkins! Only 12 seats upstairs and 16 seats downstairs, Wednesday-Sunday 5pm-late. magpieyyc.com

El Jardin is El Corazon’s second restaurant and now open in the former Rostizado/Tres Carnales location in Edmonton’s Mercer Warehouse at 10359 104 Street. There’s a large menu of tapas and tacos, cold and hot plates, and Latininspired cocktails – like at El Corazon, you might be spoiled for choice! Seven days, 3pm-late. eljardinyeg.com It’s a busy autumn for Calgary’s Heritage Park! They’ve planned so many fun (and delicious) events so check out heritagepark.ca/events before - like the Prince House Lawn dinner - they’re sold out. The spectacular Carnivàle is the biggest fundraiser of the year on September 15, then comes Ghost and Gourmet, Ghost Tours, Night at the Midway… and of course, Once Upon a Christmas!

Baekjeong Korean BBQ House is expanding! As well as their Calgary Trail location and their Sarcee Trail, Calgary location, they’ve opened another in Edmonton at 224 Mayfield Common NW,

for grilling up your short ribs, brisket, pork belly, and ribeye, at your table with bottomless salads and veggies. Seven days from 4:30pm, baekjeong.ca

9 Calgary has a boutique liquor store dedicated to Caesars! Rachel Drinkle, founder of YYCaesarfest, has opened Caesar Shop in Inglewood at 1323 9 Avenue SE, with everything you need to make your own caesars at home, with a focus on Canadian spirits, as well as ready to drink canned cocktails, rimmers and mixes. Wednesday-Sunday from 11 am.

10 Pilav Central is making authentic

Eastern European dishes for you to eat at home, cooked by Ukrainian refugees who worked as cooks in their home country. This hearty food is made from scratch in Elena Pinkhasov and husband Rueben’s Heritage Plaza store in Calgary at 8330 Macleod Trail SE, with recipes passed down from their families. We’re big fans of their filled breads: Georgian potato or cheese Khachapuri, ground beef Cheburek, savoury Pirozhki, and Samsa - triangular flaky pastries filled with beef and lamb (all meat is halal). And there’s more cabbage rolls, meat or veggie-based borscht, stews, Olivier potato salad, and seven flavours of pierogies including two sweet varieties, as well as of course the famous Uzbek Pilav, cooked in front of you. Don’t miss the decadent Napoleon and their superb honey cake for dessert.

Seven days from 11am. pilavcentral.com Do you have a notable achievement we should know about? A new opening, launch, rebrand, or accolade?

Email us at info@culinairemagazine.ca!

LET'S DO

LUNCH

Scan for Menu thewilderooftop

Join us for lunch Tuesday - Saturday thewilderooftop

525 5th Ave SW

thewilderooftop.com

September 2023 | Culinaire 9

B O O K R E V I E WS BY LI N DA G A RSO N

Prairie: Seasonal, Farm-Fresh Recipes Celebrating the Canadian Prairies

By Dan Clapson and Twyla Campbell, Appetite by Random House, $37.50

W

e couldn’t be happier than to see this book out and on our shelves. We’re not only big supporters of anything that celebrates the Prairies, and ingredients locally grown and raised that we have aplenty – but it’s evident that it’s a real labour of love from Dan Clapson and Twyla Campbell, two self-proclaimed “Saskatchewan transplants” whom we know well and admire.

Most of the recipes are from Clapson and Campbell with introductions and background to the recipes that you’ll want to read like a novel as they provide more than a glimpse into their personalities, and are testament to their years as food writers. There are recipes here from other local chefs and cooks too, and every recipe is illustrated with photographs from Dong Kim, whose culinary photographic prowess has been shining from the pages of this magazine for several years as well.

Prairie’s chapters are broken into seasons starting with Summer (timely for us for another month!) each chapter containing appetizer dishes, soups and sides, mains, and desserts and cocktails for the season

too. There are so many good recipes here, I want to make the very first recipe in the book, Cottage Cheese Green Goddess Dip (p.17) right now - I even checked my cupboards and fridge and yes, I have the ingredients!

Fall could be my favourite season with all the fresh harvest produce available, and Clapson and Campbell remind us it’s time to incorporate comfort foods back into our day-to-day lives with dishes like the must-try hot and cheesy, Leeks a’Whey au Gratin (p.82). We’re also now in the realm of hearty soups, and we know how good these will be as Clapson wrote the “Soup Kitchen” column for Culinaire for quite a few years. I’m eyeing up his Fall Fagioli Soup (p.96), and skipping into Winter, I’ve earmarked his Bison Cabbage Roll Soup (p.153), though I’m not sure I can wait until Spring to make his Smoked Lake Fish Chowder (p.218) with its surprise ingredient – beef jerky! But I’ve zipped past Campbell’s Winter Elk Meatballs (p.167) and her Black Garlic Chocolate Chip Cookies (p.184).

Spring starts with asparagus (as it does

here in May) with three glorious asparagus recipes before moving on to still hearty dishes (that Veggie Tourtière (p.239) looks so tempting!), rhubarb relishes and desserts, then leading us to the final chapter, Pantry and Fridge Staples, and what to do with them. Here are those useful recipes for croutons, compote, aioli, vinaigrettes, syrups and more.

Prairie ends with a Black Book listing of Clapson and Campbell’s favourite Prairie producers and suppliers (p.276), and a perfectly detailed index of everything mentioned in the book from acorn squash to zucchini. In her intro, Campbell says that she’s proud of this book and absolutely, are they ever right to be proud of their achievement.

Love & Lemons: Simple Feel Good Food 125 Plant-Focused Meals to Enjoy Now or Make Ahead

By Jeanine Donofrio, Penguin, $40

L

ove and Lemons creator, Jeanine Donofrio, has a very popular vegetarian blog and two successful cookbooks under her belt. Simple Feel Good Food could be her best yet; it’s simple to use and well laid out just like her recipes - each accompanied by Eva Kolenko’s sharp and colourful photos.

Split into five chapters (breakfast, salads, soups, dinner, and desserts), the recipes fall into either “At the Ready” which can be made in 45 minutes or less with store cupboard staples, or “In Advance” that can be prepped or made ahead and frozen.

10 Culinaire | September 2023

I really like the way Donofrio takes a basic Shakshuka recipe (p.34), and offers three variations to “shake it up”, as she does with “One dressing, 5 simple salads” (p.56), and her 3-in-1 meal plans using a shared grocery list for foodstuffs such as zucchini, broccoli, rice, and lentils that, with the addition of a few ingredients, make three different meals!

My copy of this book already has many bent page corners, and in the coming months I’m looking forward to making Mushroom Farro Kale Soup (p.87), Spring Pea Fritters with Whipped Feta (p.109), and Butternut and Thyme Galette (p.145),

and maybe I’ll even keep a “Cheesy” Broccoli Bake (p.157) in the freezer ready for surprise visitors. Desserts look very tempting and wickedly easy to make, I feel there’ll be some Freezer Carrot Cake Bars (p.247) and No-Bake Avocado Tart (p.249) in my near future!

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September 2023 | Culinaire 11

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Seasonally Subtle

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

E

asing into autumn isn’t always… well, easy. As early as the last week of July we’re bombarded with pumpkin spice, faux autumn foliage, and even Halloween decorations.

For Matthias Fong, chef and co-founder of Calgary’s Primary Colours, inspiration for his cooking comes from ingredients used at the height of their season. And he’s passionate about holding on to those seasonal tastes for as long as possible. “I love what fermentation, curing, and preservation, can do to the flavours of ingredients.”

While making a few varieties of miso, he discovered that as they aged, some of the aromas were reminiscent of truffles.

From there he developed a recipe for Miso Mushroom Soup.

“Mushroom soup is really a classic fall comfort food,” explains Chef Fong.

“The addition of miso brings out the flavours of the mushrooms and adds depth and complexity to the soup.” He suggests sourcing mushrooms from local producers like Red Fox Fungi or Basil Ranch, or finding a local forager who has access to morels.

“Make sure the mushrooms are well trimmed,” he adds. “Sauté them in a larger pot than you think you will need.

The extra surface area will allow the mushrooms and onions to sauté instead of boiling them.”

Miso Mushroom Soup Serves 4

110g butter To taste salt and pepper 1 tsp ginger ½ cup onions, diced Pinch ground star anise 450 g oyster or morel mushrooms, chopped 1 Tbs minced garlic ½ cup celery, diced 1 bay leaf 12 Culinaire | September 2023

So, we’re going to take it nice and slow.

This month’s Chef’s Tips features four Alberta chefs armed with salads, soups, main dishes, hints of warming spices, and flavourful ingredients that

½ cup (120 mL) dry white wine ½ tsp fresh thyme, stems removed and chopped ½ tsp fresh oregano, stems removed and chopped 1 Tbs miso paste 4 cups (1 L) vegetable or chicken stock ½ cup (120 mL) milk ¼ cup (60 mL) whipping cream To taste maple syrup To taste sherry vinegar Truffle oil (optional) 1. In a large pot add butter, salt, ginger, onions and star anise. Sauté.

2. Add chopped mushrooms and sauté 5 minutes to soften.

3. Add garlic, celery and bay leaf, and

are on the cusp of summer and fall.

Actually, let’s not even call it ‘fall.’

Let’s just tumble gracefully into the season and embrace the goodness within.

sauté another 2-3 minutes to soften the celery.

4. Deglaze with white wine and reduce by half (1-2 minutes).

5. Add thyme, oregano, miso, and stock, and bring to a boil. Blend with hand blender to combine.

6. Add milk, cream, and seasonings to taste. Finish with truffle oil if desired.

Toasted Buckwheat

Spread buckwheat in a single layer in a pan and roast at 350º F for 20 minutes, the buckwheat will take on a hazelnut-y colour and a toasty aroma.

Roasted Squash

1. Peel butternut squash, cut in half lengthwise, remove seeds, and cut into slices or cubes. For acorn & carnival squash: halve, remove seeds, cut into slices (you can eat the skins of these varieties!). For kabocha/buttercup squash: peel, halve, remove seeds, cut into slices.

2. Toss in a bit of oil and salt, place on a parchment lined baking sheet and roast at 350º F for 35-45 minutes or until fork tender. Keep warm or make a day ahead and warm in a 350º F oven for 10-15 minutes.

Salad

Warm Squash Salad with Kale, Roasted Buckwheat, and Rhubarb Miso Vinaigrette Serves 4

“My cooking is influenced primarily by the season,” explains Zach Eaton, head chef at St. Albert’s Tryst, “but it's also largely influenced by the things I like to eat.” Going by Tryst’s menu, one would wager Chef Zach enjoys comfort foods with elegant flair – think prosecco battered fish and breakfast charcuterie.

Simplicity is also key: “The Bread & Butter is one of my menu favourites,” Chef Zach admits. “It’s the ultimate symbol of hospitality, a labour of love that is meant to be passed around the table and enjoyed with good company.”

While you’re navigating the farmers’ markets this year, heed Chef Zach’s advice.

“Pick out the best-looking produce, and don't try to get crazy with it! A simple roast or sauté with some good butter and herbs is all most fall produce needs.”

Your shopping list should include ingredients for his Warm Squash Salad with Kale, which represents fall for Chef Zach. Precision is not a factor “There's lots of room to substitute certain components.”

And remember to add a pinch of salt when you’re ready to dress the salad. “Learning how to season will absolutely elevate your home cooking game.”

Rhubarb Miso Vinaigrette

⅓ cup fresh or frozen rhubarb, sliced 1 Tbs (15 mL) miso, any variety 1 Tbs (15 mL) white or apple cider vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon or lime juice 1.5 Tbs (22 mL) maple syrup or honey 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon or yellow mustard 1 clove garlic ⅓ cup (80 mL) canola or sunflower oil If using frozen rhubarb, defrost in hot water for about 10 minutes, discard water. Blend everything until smooth, season with a pinch of salt.

Sweet N Sour Beets

1 large or 2 medium beets ¼ cup (60 mL) orange juice 3 Tbs (45 mL) maple syrup or honey 3 Tbs (45 mL) white or apple cider vinegar Peel beet and cut into ½ cm cubes. Place all ingredients in a pot or saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until most of the liquid has evaporated and the beets are tender. If all the liquid has evaporated and the beets are not cooked add a splash of water and continue cooking until easily pierced with a fork. Transfer beets to a small bowl and reserve for later.

3 cups kale, approximately 1 bunch 4-5 Tbs (40-75 mL) Rhubarb Miso Vinaigrette ½ cup Sweet N Sour Beets (substitute pickled or roasted beets if desired) ½ cup roasted buckwheat (substitute toasted pumpkin or sunflower seeds if desired) 2 cups roasted squash (any variety will do but personal favourites are Carnival Squash and Acorn Squash) 1 handful mint leaves Sharp cheddar or Grana Padano as needed 1. Remove leaves from the kale, discard the woody stems. Using a sharp knife cut kale into ribbons, or tear into bite size pieces.

2. In a mixing bowl dress kale with rhubarb miso vinaigrette and a pinch of salt, use enough vinaigrette to coat the kale but not so much that there is a puddle in the bottom of the bowl. Transfer kale to your presentation bowl, or leave it in the mixing bowl.

3. Top with warm squash, toasted buckwheat, sweet n sour beets, crumbled or shaved cheese (chef likes to use a peeler to create cheese shavings), and some torn mint.

Note: when plating, chef likes to think

about contrasting colours and layers components in such a way that there is separation between similarly coloured items, such as the kale and the mint. For this dish chef always put the mint on last!

September 2023 | Culinaire 13

Sauce

1 cup (240 mL) chicken or duck jus

Agility, balance, quick-thinking, and resourcefulness all sound like attributes for an all-star athlete, but they’re equally important in the kitchen, especially for Chef Chi How Kit at Calgary’s Codo Agave. “I’m influenced by keeping up with cooking trends, balancing flavours and using local and sustainable ingredients,” Chef Kit explains. And just like sports, “Have fun, keep it simple, and be creative.”

His creativity shines with dishes like Tequila Adobo Steamed Mussels (on Codo’s menu) and Allspice Honey Glazed Duck Breast, which he shares here. “This is a dish accompanied by fall ingredients that you can buy at your local store or at a farmer's market.”

“Alberta offers an extensive selection of local ingredients, making it effortless to collaborate with our local suppliers,” adds Chef Kit. Simply put, local ingredients equal the freshest ingredients, allowing flavour to take centre stage.

Easily made for a family dinner but fancy enough for a special occasion, don’t be daunted by duck. “Make sure you start the duck on low-medium heat to render all the fat until the skin becomes crispy,” advises Chef Kit. “Don’t overcook it otherwise the meat will be tough.”

14 Culinaire | September 2023

Allspice and Local HoneyGlazed Duck Breast, Butternut Squash Tatin, Crispy Brussels Sprouts and Balsamic Grapes Serves 4

Squash Tatin

1 butternut squash, about 450 g 5 g fresh thyme, leaves only 50 g melted butter 3 Tbs plus 1 tsp (50 mL) maple syrup To taste kosher salt To taste allspice

Balsamic Grapes

250 g red grapes 1 sprig fresh thyme 15 g sugar 2 Tbs (30 mL) dark balsamic vinegar To taste kosher salt and pepper

Brussels Sprouts

300 g Brussels sprouts 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or olive oil To taste kosher salt and pepper

Duck

4 duck breasts, about 180 g each To taste kosher salt To taste allspice 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey, wildflower or any flavour

1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. 2. Peel the squash, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Slice thinly across using a mandolin slicer. Put the sliced squash in a bowl and add the thyme leaves, melted butter, maple syrup, and season with salt and allspice. Toss together and spread evenly on a small baking sheet lined up with parchment paper. Put another parchment paper on top and press it with another baking sheet so that it’s about 2.5 cms thick. Put the tray in the oven and bake for about 40-45 minutes. To check if it’s cooked, insert a small knife in the middle and it should go through easily.

3. Wash both the grapes and Brussels sprouts, cut in half and reserve.

4. Toss the Brussels sprouts with oil, salt and pepper. Put them on a baking sheet and cook in the oven at 350º F for about 12-15 minutes until they are cooked and crispy. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

5. Score the duck skin, being careful to only cut through fat, not the meat. Season with salt and allspice. Heat a skillet over low-medium heat. Place the duck breasts skin side down and cook, until all the fat has rendered, and the skin is evenly browned and crispy. Increase the heat to medium. Turn the breasts over and continue to cook until a thermometer inserted into the centre of a breast reaches 140º F, for medium-rare to medium.

Remove the fat from the pan, add the honey and glaze the duck with the honey.

Remove and keep the duck breasts warm.

6. Heat up the chicken or duck jus in the same pan and keep warm.

7. Heat up a pan on medium heat and add the grapes, thyme, sugar and balsamic vinegar. Let it cook slowly until the grapes are soft and tender. Add some chicken jus if needed. Season with salt and pepper.

Plating

1. Remove the squash from the tray and cut into strips 1 x 2 cms. Place a strip on each plate and put Brussels sprouts on top.

2. Cut each duck breast into half lengthwise and put both pieces on each plate. Place some grapes on each piece of duck, and finish with some chicken or duck jus.

2. Pour into single serving cake moulds or a 20 cm (8-inch) cake pan. Fill only threequarters deep.

3. Bake at 350º F until cooked, about 15 minutes for single cakes and 40 minutes for large cakes. Once cooked, let cool in the fridge until the cake is cold. Take out of the mould.

4. Pipe goat cheese icing on top. Garnish with roasted white chocolate pieces if desired.

Goat Cheese Buttercream

75 g butter, room temperature 1/3 cup powdered sugar 50 g goat cheese, room temperature 25 g cream cheese, room temperature ½ lemon, zested (no juice) ½ tsp pink peppercorns, ground Pinch salt

Courtesy Linda Garson Courtesy Pursuit Collection

Chef Shane Rutledge, chef de cuisine at Jasper’s Aalto and Terra restaurants, is a people person. He’s influenced by them: “People in the kitchen are some of the craziest but also some of the most honest, hardworking, and caring,” and he’s inspired by them, too: “Perhaps the most important inspiration is sharing the love and joy of good food with others.”

It’s no surprise that the recipe he shares here is a nod to his childhood. “When I was a kid there always seemed to be endless zucchini growing in our backyard garden.

We made tons of zucchini bread - even more than banana bread – and the smells would fill the kitchen.”

“Be careful not to overmix the cake batter once the flour has been added as this can make the final product tough,” Chef reminds us. “When making the caramel sauce, watch for a dark brown colour on the sugar before adding butter and cream.”

Finally, a pinch of salt goes a long way: “It helps balance the sweetness and bring out the flavours.”

Zucchini Cake with Goat Cheese Buttercream and Warm Caramel Sauce

Makes 4 individual cakes or 1 large cake 1 cup zucchini, grated 1/3 cup (80 mL) milk ½ cup (120 mL) vegetable oil 1 egg 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract ½ cup brown sugar ½ tsp cinnamon pinch nutmeg 1 cup flour ½ tsp baking soda Pinch baking powder ½ tsp salt 1/3 cup pumpkin seeds Roasted white chocolate pieces, for garnish (optional) 1. Add all the wet ingredients into a bowl and set aside. Mix all the dry ingredients in a separate bowl and mix with the wet ingredients until fully incorporated. Scrape down the mixing bowl and mix again until fully incorporated. Do not overmix.

1. In a mixer with the whisk attachment, whip the butter until very fluffy.

2. Add the powdered sugar and beat again until smooth. Add the goat cheese and cream cheese and whip again.

3. Add the remaining ingredients together and mix on low speed until fully incorporated. Whip on high for another 30 seconds. Scrape the sides of the mixer and mix again.

4. Put into a piping bag with the tip of your choice, and pipe at room temperature.

Caramel Sauce Makes 2 cups

½ lemon, juiced ¼ cup (60 mL) water 1 cup granulated sugar 6 Tbs unsalted butter ½ cup (120 mL) 35% cream Pinch salt 1. In medium pot add lemon juice, water, and sugar. Cook until the sugar turns dark brown but not burnt. Once it starts to colour it gets dark very quickly, so be careful.

2. Add in the butter and cream. Mix with a whisk on the heat until fully incorporated and melted together. Use as the base for the cake, served warm.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

September 2023 | Culinaire 15

O F F TH E M E N U

Chef Mo’s Maple Wasabi Vinaigrette

BY LINDA GARSON

W

e’re still thinking about the outrageously delicious salad dressing that Chef Mo at Sunterra Keynote made for us earlier this year with his smoked salmon and egg on fresh herb salad for the first course of our “From The Farm” Vine & Dine dinner.

Everyone wanted the recipe!

“Thanks for the wonderful evening at “From the Farm Pt 2” at Sunterra. The pairings were bang on and the food was amazing. Can you please send us the maple wasabi vinaigrette recipe? All was made even better knowing the salad was made from local ingredients. Cheers!”

Ian R. “Once again, I would like to thank you very much for the Vine and Dine evening at Sunterra Downtown Calgary last night. We, the four of us at the long table, enjoyed our dinner and wine pairings. Each course of the dinner was delicious! One of my favourites, was the Maple Wasabi Vinaigrette that was presented with the Sgambaro's smoked salmon and Omega-3 eggs on fresh herb salad. It was very smooth and light tasting. I would appreciate it if I could possibly get the recipe? Joanie E. “Loved the Sunterra Vine and Dine. Is it possible to get the vinaigrette recipe from that meal? Please and thanks!” Terie R. Thanks so much, Chef Mo, for generously sharing your recipe!

16 Culinaire | September 2023

Photo Courtesy Sunterra Market Makes 1¾ cups, about 420 mL 2 Tbs (30 mL) water 1½ tsp wasabi powder ½ cup (120 mL) maple syrup ¼ cup (60 mL) lemon juice ¼ cup (60 mL) rice wine vinegar ½ tsp ginger, minced 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) soy sauce 1½ tsp garlic, minced ½ cup (120 mL) canola oil To taste salt and pepper

1. Combine water and wasabi powder until the powder dissolves.

2. Add in maple syrup, lemon juice, rice wine vinegar, ginger, sesame oil, soy sauce, and garlic, and whisk together.

3. Slowly add in the canola oil while whisking continuously until the mixture is combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss with your favourite green salad.

HARVEST IS HERE, IT’S TIME TO RAISE A GLASS

Learn more:

Experience award-winning wines and the beauty of Kelowna vineyards this fall.

Learn more: tourismkelowna.com/wine-trails

Building bridges.

With funding from Edmonton Community Foundation and Edmonton Arts Council, awardwinning poet Knowmadic enriches the diversity of Edmonton’s arts community by bringing together the individuals and organizations that inspire our city’s reputation as a unique and outstanding cultural centre.

Donations to ECF inspire hope, create opportunity and enhance the Edmonton lifestyle. We work with our donors to give, grow and transform. ecfoundation.org is poetry in motion.

Charity begins at Home.

Snack Attack STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY

30 Balanced Snack Ideas

Y

ou hear your stomach rumbling. Those around you can hear your stomach rumbling. Your regularly scheduled meal is hours away.

It’s time for a snack to tide you over.

Not too big so you’re not hungry come mealtime, and not too small so that you’re hungry again in half an hour.

What to do?

To build a balanced snack, you need at least two of the following: Carbohydrates - for energy Protein - for a sense of fullness Fat - for richness and boosting satiety The combination of carbs + protein and/or healthy fat is the perfect balance for sustained energy, fullness and stabilizing blood sugar.

The size of snack should match the size of the person. A six-year old is not the same as a 16-year old or a 36-year old.

Each person has their own individual needs when it comes to satisfying their hunger. Plan accordingly.

Having the right size containers (to avoid over- or under-eating) is helpful when planning snacks for you and/or 18 Culinaire | September 2023

your family. Put snacks in small plastic containers or bags so they are easy to carry in a pocket, purse, or backpack.

The best way to keep from eating junk food or other unhealthy snacks is to not have these foods in your house. And the best way to not have those foods in the house and still enjoy snacks is to make your own snack mixes each week.

Here are two examples of easy to prepare and easy to eat meat and cheese wraps: 1. Take a slice of ham and place a slice of apple and a slice of cheese and then roll the ham around the filling (see photo).

2. The same for the turkey wrap. Take a slice of turkey, a slice of brie cheese, and a teaspoon of cranberry sauce and wrap the turkey around the filling.

These are great for all ages. They are delicious, filling, and a great balance of carbs, fat and protein, with far less additives and preservatives than prepackaged meat and cheese products.

There are many ways to have healthy snacks on hand. Here’s a list of ideas to get you started.

1. Apple + spicy roasted chickpeas 2. Mixed nuts + chocolate 3. Carrot and celery sticks + hummus 4. Crackers + guacamole 5. Nut butter cup + raspberries 6. Peaches + cottage cheese 7. Popcorn + mixed nuts + dark chocolate 8. Gluten-free pumpkin muffin + nut butter (*recipe opposite page) 9. Berries + yogurt + granola 10. Tortilla chips + bean dip 11. Dried fruit + mixed nuts 12. Celery sticks + peanut butter 13. Rice cakes + tomatoes + hummus 14. Veggies + Greek yogurt pesto dip 15. Boiled egg + pepperoni sticks 16. Banana + nut butter + chocolate 17. Anytime cookies (*recipe below) 18. Quinoa chocolate crisp bars 19. Baked oatmeal cups 20. Pear + walnuts 21. Turkey + cranberry jam + brie wraps (*see photo) 22. Tomatoes + chicken cubes 23. Homemade trail mix 24. Chia pudding 25. Tuna or salmon salad + crackers 26. Chocolate black bean muffins 27. Ham + apple + cheese wrap (*see photo) 28. Peanut butter + jelly sandwich cookies 29. Chocolate zucchini bread 30. Smoothie with veg, fruit, nut butter + yogurt

Anytime Cookie Makes 12

Gluten-free Pumpkin Muffins

These muffins will keep covered at room temperature for a couple of days or you can freeze for 2 months.

Makes 12 2 large eggs ¾ cup (180 mL) pumpkin puree ¼ cup (60 mL) apple sauce ½ cup (120 mL) neutral oil such as avocado ¼ cup coconut sugar or brown sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) maple syrup ¼ cup (60 mL) Greek yogurt or sour cream ¾ cup oat flour ½ cup sweet rice flour ½ cup millet flour 2 Tbs tapioca flour 2¾ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp sea salt 2 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cinnamon 10 grates nutmeg ¼ tsp allspice ½ tsp ground cardamon Pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and cardamon sugar for topping, optional 1. Preheat oven to 350º F and line a standard muffin pan with 12 liners.

2. In a large bowl whisk together the eggs, pumpkin puree, apple sauce, oil, sugar, maple syrup and yogurt.

3. Sift in the oat, sweet rice, millet, and tapioca flours, baking powder and soda, salt, and spices. Whisk batter until smooth.

4. Using an ice cream scoop or small measuring cup, scoop batter and fill each muffin cup ¾ full. Sprinkle top with pepitas and cardamon sugar if using.

5. Bake the muffins approximately 18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out with a few moist crumbs. Remove from oven and let sit a few minutes to firm up. Then remove and let cool on a wire rack.

1 banana 1 egg 1/3 cup (80 mL) apple sauce 1/3 cup (80 mL) almond butter 1/3 cup (80 mL) maple syrup 1 tsp sea salt 2½ cups rolled oats 1 tsp baking powder 2 Tbs chia seeds 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 Tbs ground flax seed ½ tsp ground ginger Optional fun flavour additions: • dried blueberries + dried cranberries + shaved almonds • candied ginger + walnuts + coconut flakes • chocolate chips • or any combination you like best 1. Preheat oven to 350º F and line a baking sheet with parchment.

2. Add the banana, egg, apple sauce, almond butter, maple syrup, and salt, into a large bowl and whisk until combined.

3. Add the oats, baking powder, chia seeds, cinnamon, flax seeds, and ginger, and mix until everything is fully incorporated.

4. Stir in your preferred fun flavour options.

5. Using a large scoop or spoon, form 12 large cookies gently pressing them to slightly flatten. Place on baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes or until cookies are golden brown. Let cool. Enjoy anytime you need a delicious on the go snack option.

fall into fun

at heritage park From ghostly tours and holiday magic, to our biggest fundraiser of the year, Carnivàle, there’s something for everyone to enjoy year-round at Heritage Park!

upcoming events Ghost Tours Carnivàle Dinner and a Movie Ghosts & Gourmet Ghouls’ Night Out Once Upon A Christmas

Visit heritagepark.ca to find out more and get tickets.

As a registered charity, your support helps us bring the history of Western Canada to life.

Sept. 15 Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

a night of magic, mystery and mystique

September 2023 | Culinaire 19

THE CHARMING TASTE OF EUROPE There are places in Europe that have a timeless charm, where the highest quality products with distinct flavors are born. The Charming Taste of Europe is a unique project that connects the flavors of wine from Italy and France, as well as fresh fruit from Greece, and introduces the United States and Canada to these exquisite items that evoke all of Europe’s beauty and grace.

The campaign is co-funded by the European Union and aims to promote the merits of European agricultural products, such as quality, tradition, traceability, safety and high production standards. Quality is one of the greatest assets of the producers across the EU in their attempt to meet the consumer demand, to increase the competitiveness of the EU products on US and and Canada markets.

To learn more about the campaign, visit : www.charmingtasteofeurope.eu/en.

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20 Culinaire | September 2023

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MORE TO DISCOVER WITH THE WINES OF ABRUZZO All roads may lead to Rome, but the crossroads of Italian wine may be found in the Southern Italian region of Abruzzo.

Hilly and mountainous with the shores of the Adriatic Sea on its eastern border, Abruzzo and its wines transcend and complete Italian cuisine. Rich, meaty dishes from the inland of Abruzzo, on the slopes of the Central Apennines including Gran Sasso and Majella National Parks, intense and flavourful seafoods from the sea, and yes – of course – the beautiful and classic pasta dishes that are so wonderfully associated with Italy.

Abruzzo, roughly halfway down the eastern side of Italy is long considered one of the greenest regions of Europe, home to diverse animal and plant life but also boasting three national parks and more than five dozen national and regional reserves making this a paradise for exploring the outdoors – as well as a rich experience for wine and food enthusiasts.

Moving closer to the sea, your wine pairings in Abruzzo may move to the white wines, and the grapes of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - a crisp, classically Italian dry white wine known for its light body, zesty flavours of almonds, citrus, and pear, and food matching ability.

Or try Abruzzo Pecorino. Rarely found outside of Abruzzo, Pecorino is unmatched when it comes to pairing with seafood or shellfish from the coastal areas, thanks to the perfection of its acidity and the richer, slightly fuller mouthfeel. Rosé too can be found in Abruzzo. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a unique appellation in Italy, focused entirely on rosé wines. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is, to no one’s surprise, the grape responsible in these incredible wines too.

Each of these products represent the culmination of the passion, tradition, and dedication of the Abruzzo communities. They are an invaluable commodity to be cherished and nurtured towards the preservation and development of the territory’s cultural identity.

The Consorzio di Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo plays a fundamental role to guarantee the quality, typicality, and origin of Abruzzo wines and the development of its products.

Just as the cuisine is diverse and representative of Abruzzo, so are the wines perfectly made to complement and complete this culinary tradition. Winemaking is traditionally found inland in the cooler, hilly areas, and is centred around the flagship grape of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This late ripening variety benefits from the warm climate, and is grown on more than 17,000 hectares, but as the popularity of this grape – known for its bright red/plum colouring, and its violet, black cherries, and licorice flavourings, but also with vibrant, food-friendly acids, moderate tannin, and a velvety texture in the mouth - it’s one of the unique and grand classic Italian grapes. With food, look to grilled meats, cured Italian meats, and cheese. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo itself accounts for over 80% of the wine in the region, and represents some of the finest wines being made in Italy. With over 1000 years of history in the region, winemakers can draw on generations of experience working with these noble grapes, at some of the finest, and most picturesque vineyards in the world.

September 2023 | Culinaire 21

S TE P BY S TE P

No Ordinary Cup of Joe: Slow Cooker Beef Carnitas with Coffee and Cumin STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

U

sing coffee in the kitchen shouldn’t just be for the requisite morning fuel. Though it is my lifeblood, coffee is also quite useful in sweet and savoury dishes. Adding cold coffee to chocolate cake ensures a depth of flavour like nothing else, and a splash

22 Culinaire | September 2023

of espresso works wonders in creamy custards and puddings. We all know that coffee is fantastic with cream and sugar, but it can work its magic with beef and onions too. Coffee might just be that secret ingredient that’s been in plain sight on your kitchen counter all along.

Coffee beans, the good arabica ones, are roasted, which means they already have oodles of depth and complexity built in.

When ground, or brewed, they impart these characteristics to whatever you’re cooking. If you’re needing to make gravy but don’t have good beef broth, add a splash of coffee.

Beans and coffee are simply a match made on the ranch. Baked beans love a good glug of coffee, as does a pot of chili.

The flavour deepens, adding richness instead of bitterness. Coffee is also one of those ingredients that pulls all of the other ingredients it's paired with along for the ride, and makes them stand up straighter. You feel it all, in one bite.

Thanks to its acidic composition, coffee shines in a braise, as it breaks down the toughest cuts of meat, allowing you to cut it with a spoon, if you choose. Lamb shanks and beef short ribs are cuts of meat that need the low and slow attention of a good braise, and adding coffee - about 1 cup (250 mL) will do - to the braising liquid ensures melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and out-of-this-world deliciousness.

Coffee’s acidity is also quite terrific in a marinade, especially when paired with soy sauce and garlic; it works wonders on flank steak. And, we can’t talk about coffee without talking about barbecue. Ground coffee is terrific in dry rubs, as its sweet, earthy, smoky flavour is so good when rubbed on ribs; its bitterness adds a robust contrast to the typically sweeter barbecue sauces.

Carnitas are one of my favourite things to make, and for this recipe, I swapped out the typical pork shoulder for beef chuck roast, with great success. And, I used coffee in a couple of ways. It not only acts as flavour booster to the spice rub, but as a key figure in the braising liquid. The sweetness of the brown sugar in the rub helps to temper the bitterness of the coffee, while the range of spices can always be tweaked to your liking, but I quite like the coupling of coffee and cumin.

This is the perfect meal for busy weeknights, as the prep takes only 10 minutes, and your handy-dandy slow cooker does all of the work. Carnitas are wonderful because everyone can assemble them as they see fit, and everyone walks away happy. Coffee will do that to you!

Slow Cooker Beef Carnitas with Coffee and Cumin Serves 4 -6

2 Tbs dark roast coffee, finely ground 2 Tbs light brown sugar, packed 2 tsp coarse salt 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp garlic powder ½ tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp cayenne pepper, optional 1.13 kg beef chuck roast or flank steak, patted dry 1 large onion, peeled and quartered 1 jalapeno pepper, halved lengthwise 1¼ cups (310 mL) reduced sodium beef broth 1 cup (250 mL) strong black coffee, cooled 1 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste corn tortillas, warmed Salsa Sliced radishes Sliced avocado Fresh cilantro leaves Queso fresco or feta cheese, crumbled Lime wedges

2. Place the roast in the bottom of a slow cooker. Rub the coffee/spice mixture all over the roast. Place the onions on the sides and top of the meat. Tuck in the jalapeno halves. Pour in the beef broth, coffee, and stir in the tomato paste.

3. Cover the slow cooker and cook on LOW for 8 hours, or until the meat is tender enough to pull apart easily with two forks.

4. Remove the meat from the slow cooker and transfer to a shallow bowl or rimmed 1. In a medium bowl, mix together the platter. When it is cool enough to handle, ground coffee, sugar, salt, cumin, paprika, use 2 forks (or your fingers) to shred the chili powder, coriander, oregano, garlic powder, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. meat.

5. To assemble the carnitas, fill warmed corn tortillas with the shredded beef and top with salsa, radish, avocado, cilantro, cheese, and lime. Serve immediately.

Note: The beef can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three days, or put into a freezer-safe container and frozen for up to two months.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, …

“Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

Since 1893, #Cecchi brings to the world the essence of Tuscan wines.

Discover more at cecchi.net Please enjoy responsibly. @cecchi_winery

Thinking outside the box (or keg!)

W

hen you think of kegs, beer and frat parties come to mind. But Banff's Matthew Hendriks is turning that idea on its head.

To be a start-up with any level of success in the competitive world of Alberta distilleries and craft breweries, you've got to have hustle. To make your way into a growing list of bars and restaurants, independent liquor stores, onto the golf course and at weddings, you've got to have hustle and a product people want. And to get your product into rotation at the world-renowned Calgary Stampede, you've got to have all the above and something like destiny.

“It was an eventuality. Matt's one of the hardest working, most focused individuals I know,” says longtime friend, former colleague, and fellow Saskatchewan transplant Chris Bolt, who is also director of food and beverage at Banff Park Lodge and the first client of byHendo keg cocktails. “I've known him ever since he was making hooch in someone's basement.

I'm not surprised at the success.”

Meet Matthew Hendriks, who has called Banff home for some 20 years and parlayed that penchant for playing with flavour combinations behind the bar, and as master distiller with Banff’s Park Distillery, into his own fledgling cocktail company, byHendo.com.

“It's been an amazing ride so far, to have a family, house and career here in my adopted hometown. We're all in,” says Hendriks who, with the blessing of his wife Sarah Schaefer and four-old daughter Piper, adds, “They know I've got a passion for this.”

Earlier this summer, Hendriks and his small staff put on 15 pop-ups in big party bars in downtown Calgary, sharing the story about the local brand of keg and canned cocktails and getting, “liquid to lips. We're big on exposure,” he says,

24 Culinaire | September 2023

BY LUCY HAINES

adding the gig at Calgary Stampede was, “Crazy. A dream. Start-ups don't even get a seat at that table, so we wanted to take full advantage of it.”

Though opportunity based on Stampede exposure is yet to be seen, the bread-andbutter of the business thus far has been the keg cocktail. Have you ever imagined a margarita on tap? Maybe a strawberrygin-type quick pour from the kegerator? As a pioneer of the cocktail industry in the province's premier tourist town, Hendriks has put an upscale twist on the casual appeal of a keg. It's out of the box (or the keg) thinking - a move beyond the ‘wine, beer and Jäger(meister)’ tradition of old that's taking the entrepreneur down new roads in the industry, inspired by his roots as a bartender.

“We started producing our first kegs in late 2021, and it was a slow roll to start.

I didn't know if keg cocktails could be a thing, but I wanted a tool for the hospitality

industry; something bartenders could put on for a happy hour to make their lives easier. Within a half a year, we knew we had something,” says Hendriks of a lineup that includes a couple of varieties of keg cocktails on tap, and a newer line of canned ready-to-drink offerings under the Highlights and el cocktails labels.

Flavours like grapefruit, passion fruit, and lime figure prominently on the low sugar, low carbonated beverages, made with 100 percent real juice.

That's key to the quality and taste, says Hendriks, admitting it has been a challenge to figure out how to keep the juice from settling, especially in the keg products.

“We're still a start-up - so educating a bar about the benefits of using a keg cocktail or getting shelf space at the liquor store it's all part of creating brand awareness,” acknowledges byHendo mountain district sales manager Monica Bouius, who spends much of her time doing tastings at liquor

stores and delivering product to customers throughout the Bow Valley. Day trips to and from Jasper aren't uncommon either. “I don't like driving - at all - but I like podcasts, so I learn things as I drive. And I feel like folks are happy to see us, especially any place that does high volume. That's where we excel.”

Bouius says to prove her point, she often challenges bartenders to make a margarita.

“They take three minutes to make it; mine is a four second pour from the keg - and it tastes better. It comes down to using real juice,” she laughs, adding she and Hendriks are in-sync as the company grows. “We're both sort of workaholics. I see more of Matt than my own partner.”

Hendriks' drive keeps him up at night, he admits, with thoughts of getting his keg cocktails into local ski hill lounges and beyond to spots like Revelstoke. It's that motivation that has seen the pony kegs (about 20 litres, half the size of a standard keg) of lime Margarita (the top seller) and others like Strawberry Smash and Pineapple Express cycling through venues in the Bow Valley and into BC. Tapping that tough BC market is a feat on its own, with varying provincial regulations that stymie many a producer. But byHendo is making tracks into Golden and Invermere - even the Okanagan, with brand reps at the helm there. Plans for a coastal rep are on track for next year.

Bolt says using byHendo's keg cocktails for mobile events and in the lounge has been a no-brainer. “Pulling a five-ounce cocktail is as quick as pulling a beer. It

wedding's mobile bar - there are so many possibilities.” She points to another bartender's favourite, the company's O.G. Shaft on tap - a four ounce, ‘pick-me-up’, vodka/espresso cocktail-sized shot. “We don't even market it, but it's popular with our clients. Matt always has the bartenders in mind.”

To that point, Hendriks isn't worried a keg cocktail will put bartenders out of work - he forever sees himself as one of them.

There is still a need for custom cocktails in any establishment, he says, where bartenders can still put their own twist on an Old Fashioned, make a new cocktail or add foam or unique garnishes to others Matt Hendricks Sarah and Piper to show off their creativity. Hendriks says his keg cocktails are a right hand to a busy saves on time, on having fruit on hand, bartender; a consistent supply of a couple and on labour,” Bolt says. “Customers like of classics to take pressure off when the it because the quality is there and even going gets busy. if we're busy behind the bar, the cocktail Amid the steady growth of Banff's order is ready at the same time as a beer.

Same at weddings when couples might like cocktail culture and byHendo.com, Bolt says he hopes his friend will take a signature cocktail for their guests - this meets that demand. Speed and convenience a breather, step back and see what he's accomplished so far. Hendriks agrees a are key.” little down time is in order, but then adds, With the addition of sales managers “If you work hard, the sky's the limit. We for Edmonton and Calgary, a rep in the want to see the industry grow as a whole, Okanagan and production manager Brad because we know we can't be everywhere in Airdrie, Hendriks and byHendo.com all at once.” continue to build. Hendriks says once busy patio season is done, he sees hotel conferences and events needing a mobile bar to keep keg sales up year-round.

Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance “Matt has his finger on the pulse, he's writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is always watching trends,” Bouius adds. a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys “And something like the strawberry smash singing and performing in the local community can be dubbed ‘the blushing bride’ at a theatre scene.

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From Monovarietals to Emerging Regions,

Olive Oil Evolve continues to

F

BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER

or thousands of years, people have been using olive oil to make their meals better. We drizzle it on salad, slather it on roasted vegetables, dip rounds of baguette into it and stir it into dressings.

But with hundreds of brands and bottles for sale in Canada, how can you tell if you’re getting a good olive oil?

“First, smell it,” says George Pananos, owner of Pillar Grove Estate, an olive oil farm in Greece. “And then taste it — by itself, without bread or other food. You should smell fresh herbs and fruit,” he says. “If you don’t, walk away.”

Pananos knows what he’s talking about.

Born and raised in Thessaloniki, Greece, he came to Canada to study chemical engineering at university. He spent his entire (first) career working in oil and gas and he still lives in St. Albert, just outside of Edmonton. But, he notes, he grew up

George Pananos, Pillar Grove Estate

Olive Branch 26 Culinaire | September 2023

around olive oil as a child in Greece. “I know a good one when I taste one. It’s the centre of a Mediterranean diet. It’s a wonderful food that makes other food taste delicious,” he adds.

It’s healthy, too. “The health benefits of olive oil have been attributed to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” wrote Harvard University doctor Howard E. LeWine in 2021.

“Observational studies have shown a link between lower risks of cardiovascular disease, some cancers, and even dementia in people who consume higher amounts of olive oil than those who use little or none.”

People have been eating and using olive oil — essentially just a fat from a tree — for thousands of years. Some of the

earliest records of olive oil as food date back to 3,500 BC and maybe even earlier, around the Mediterranean. The ancient Greeks added scents to olive oil and wore it. Many cultures, including the ancient Romans, burned it in clay lamps to light up their nights.

The average life span of an olive tree is about 500 years, but there are trees in Greece and Italy that are believed to date back close to 4,000 years.

These days, there are more than 1,000 varieties of olives and olive oil is produced in dozens of countries and on all but one continent (Antarctica, in case you’re wondering.) Spain is the largest producer followed by Italy, while Canada is one of the world’s biggest importers of olive oil,

Some tips on buying and storing olive oil:

George Pananos, Pillar Grove Estate just behind Brazil and Australia, according to the International Olive Council.

Speaking of Spain

Veronica Guirado Gomez moved to Canada from Andalusia, Spain in 2011, first to Toronto and then two years later to Calgary, where she worked in construction management on the nowclosed Nordstrom store at Chinook Centre. When the job ended, she turned to olive oil. She began importing oil from southeast Spain, the region where she was born and raised.

“It’s a way for me to connect Spain with Canada, and I love it. I am from Cazorla, a little town in the heart of the biggest region of olive oil production in the world. There are millions of olive trees in my region,” she says, adding that every fall, since she was small, she would help with harvest. “I grew up on an olive farm.

We had our own mill even, attached to the house.”

Her business, Vezorla Olive Juice, imports olive oil from her family, neighbours and friends to Canada.

Albertans can find it at Italian Centre Shop, Sunterra, Lina’s Italian Market and more. (Go to vezorla.com for a complete list of retailers.)

All her products are monovarietal oils made from one of two types of olives: Royal, an indigenous olive found in the wild in Spain, as well as Picual, the kind that her family and friends grow. A big part of her new job, she says, involves

education around what constitutes a quality olive oil. “People need to realize that the real, authentic, extra-virgin olive oil is really just juice, juice from a healthy olive,” she says. “Making olive oil is like squeezing an orange. You can smell it.

You get the juice. It’s totally natural.”

Expanding regions

Olive trees even grow in Canada.

Former residents of Cochrane, northwest of Calgary, George and Sheri Braun own The Olive Farm on BC’s Salt Spring Island. They started their farm in 2010 and produced their first oil in 2016. Now they have around 3,000 trees, despite a rough couple of winters. Harvest starts in a couple of months in November, and they’ll be pressing and bottling in December. A handful of restaurants in Alberta have featured the oil on their menus, including Cardinale, Eight, and River Cafe in Calgary. Check the website for more at theolivefarm.ca.

Taking care of business

As for Pananos, when it came time to retire from the oil industry, he started thinking about finding a hobby, something fun to fill his days. He had inherited a farm in Greece from his father, so he went to check it out. “It was beautiful, 10 acres only but 10 acres in Europe, that’s a big farm,” he says.

That was 12 years ago. With the help of a local farmer, he planted the land with olive trees, a rare variety called Galani.

• Look for olive oil that lists the harvest date on the label and use within a year or two of that date.

• Look for a country of origin on the label — Italy, Greece, Spain etc.

• Look for olive oil that’s sold in dark glass bottles or metal, which helps to keep out damaging light.

• Many oils from small producers also list the type of olive used.

Look for the word “monovarietal” or “single varietal” on the label. If you can, try a few different types of olives and regions; they all have their own personality and flavours.

A blend contains several varieties, also known as cultivars.

• Look for the words “extra virgin” on the label. It has been coldpressed (not heated during production) and is not processed with chemicals, so it will have a richer, better flavour and more health benefits than a regular olive oil.

• Use your olive oil. Try it as soon as you can after harvest.

• Don’t keep your olive oil in the fridge. It can pick up flavours from other foods. Seal it tightly after opening and store in the coolest part of your kitchen.

• Store your unopened olive oil bottles in a cool, dry, odour-free room. I store mine in my wine cellar.

Originally cultivated by monks in the region, its name means “blue olive” in Greek. In 2019 and 2020, the oil won gold in the New York International Olive Oil Competition (NYIOOC). It won a silver in 2021 and then gold again in 2022.

He entered it in other competitions in Greece, the US and the United Kingdom.

“Everywhere I enter it, it wins,” Pananos says proudly.

Sure, he may be biased, but the oil tastes good, better than anything he could find at home in Edmonton. “My olive oil smells grassy and fruity. Then, when you drink it, it gives you a kick, a peppery September 2023 | Culinaire 27

Veronica Guirado Gomez, Vezorla Olive Juice sensation that goes all the way to the back of your palate,” he says. Since he liked it, he figured others probably would too, and adds, “I imported a small quantity and people liked it, so I brought in more.”

And more and more. Pananos imports 6,000 litres of olive oil a year, plus olives and other related food products.

Pananos now spends 50 to 60 hours a week on all things olive oil, and Pillar Grove Estate also employs his wife and two sons, who all share his passion for the high-quality oil.

That post-retirement hobby turned out to be considerably more than Pananos expected.

“I’m working on my second career now. I never thought olive oil would turn into something this big. I was just looking for something to keep me busy,” he says. “This is more demanding than engineering ever was.”

Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world.

She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits.

28 Culinaire | September 2023

If you’re in the market for a good olive oil but don’t know where to start, here are a few shops with great selections in Alberta: • Edmonton and Calgary’s Italian Centre Shop have a massive selection of extra-virgin olive oils and despite the store name, they aren’t all Italian, italiancentre.ca • Calgarian Gord Fontaine started Soffritto Oil and Vinegar Bar as a way to bring fine olive oil and balsamic vinegar to Calgarians.

Shop online at soffritto.ca or in person at one of their locations in Canyon Meadows, Mahogany, Granary Road Market, and both Calgary Farmers’ Market South and West • Calgary’s Cookbook Co. Cooks carries a vast range of topquality extra-virgin olive oils from throughout the Mediterranean, cookbookcooks.com

• Evoolution has locations in Edmonton, St. Albert, Canmore, Banff, and Calgary, evoolution.ca • You can buy in store at Medicine Hat’s, The Hat Olive Tap or online at thehatsolivetap.com

Photo Courtesy City of Edmonton

Single use plastics?

Not so fantastic!

BY TOM FIRTH

I

t was with much debate that the conversation about the continued presence of single-use plastics became part of our lives. While it may seem like images of sea turtles surrounded by plastic can holders or straws might come from far away – perhaps too far for us to be

concerned about - the rising presence of plastics in our lives (and in our waste) is coming to a critical mass in Alberta. Our landfills are well… filling up – and recycling only goes so far. And really, as far as things go, do we need to be presented with a onetime-only plastic straw for our sodas?

In late December 2022, Canada prohibited certain single use plastics, such as stir sticks, straws, and yes - plastic cutlery and plastic shopping bags, in an effort to reach zero plastic waste by 2030.

In part, this is an effort to curb greenhouse gas emissions, but also address pollution September 2023 | Culinaire 29

30 Culinaire | September 2023

Photo Courtesy City of Edmonton

concerns in general, as many single use plastics are not able to be recycled or processed effectively after use.

Naturally, many Canadians embraced these changes - but equally as naturally, many Canadians objected to these inconveniences. There were claims of insufficient reasons for the change, insufficient alternatives to certain single use plastics, and for some, that “why bother?” attitude that often goes with some phrase like “such and such place makes/emits/or consumes far more than we do”.

Nevertheless, even small changes can add up, and make for a significant change for the future, so we talked to representatives at both the City of Calgary, and the City of Edmonton to ask about these single use changes and how they affect consumers at the city level.

Denis Jubinville, Branch Manager, Waste Services at the City of Edmonton, explained that their goal is not just to switch from plastic items to non-plastic items, but to reduce items that are used once and thrown away. The city was wellprepared for the changes: “The federal restrictions focus on plastics, but we didn’t want to limit our restrictions to plastics,” he says. “Instead, Edmonton’s bylaw aims to increase the use of reusable items. It targets items that can easily be replaced with reusable options or avoided altogether, regardless what material they are made of.”

The government’s regulations ban the manufacture and import of six categories of single-use plastics: checkout bags, cutlery, ring carriers, stir sticks, takeout containers containing hard to recycle materials, and straws (with a few exemptions). “All of these plastic items can be problematic for our residential recycling and composting programs, especially when they are not properly prepared or sorted into the correct cart,” says Kayley Fesko, Waste Diversion Specialist at the City of Calgary. “When the federal regulations are fully realized, we anticipate there will be fewer challenges related to many of these plastics in Calgary’s residential recycling and composting programs,” she adds.

Now that changes are underway, there are a few ongoing concerns that we should still be aware of. According to Jubinville, items like takeout containers that are labelled “compostable” present challenges as they don’t break down in the regional

organics processing facilities, so they end up in the landfill. These “compostable” items require higher temperatures and longer processing times than most industrial facilities are able to provide.

This sentiment is echoed in Calgary where small items like prepackaged condiment containers continue to be a challenge. One problem is that even if they are made from a recyclable material, they are too small to be sorted property at the recycling facility and end up contaminating other recyclables.

“Certified compostable plastic products like cutlery, cups and packaging are problematic in Calgary’s composting facility, as while labeled compostable, these products won’t break down quickly enough in our composting process and will contaminate the finished compost,” Fesko explains.

So is there a particular class of product that we really should avoid using?

“We really want to encourage Calgarians to shift away from using single-use items in the first place,” says Fesko. “This can easily be done by Calgarians bringing their reusable bags when they are shopping.

This will help them avoid the minimum bag fee and reduce their reliance on singleuse shopping bags.”

And what about restaurants, what should we be asking food establishments

to move away from?

“Reusable items are always the best option from an environmental perspective, so we encourage restaurants to use reusable dishes and cutlery for dine-in orders. Our bylaw requires that reusable cups be used for dine-in orders,” Jubinville says.

We asked Mark von Schellwitz, Vice President, Western Canada for Restaurants Canada, to weigh in here as the organization has been actively involved in all federal, provincial, as well as many larger cities’ plastic reductions initiatives, regulations, and bylaws. “We believe that our industry has shown its ongoing commitment to environmental responsibility, from locally sourced ingredients to energy efficiency, sustainability is simply a part of doing business in restaurants today,” he says.

It's impressive how our foodservice industry has embraced these changes, as we all know that so many had to start offering takeout and delivery just to survive the pandemic, and it’s remained an important part of their business. They’ve demonstrated a willingness to adapt to support the implementation of a Canadawide strategy on zero plastic waste, while demand for takeout and delivery continues to increase.

However, “they also need to continue providing their customers with safe, accessible, and affordable takeout and delivery options,” says von Schellwitz.

“Many single-use packaging items that are already recyclable end up in landfill due to a lack of public consumer education

and a confusing patchwork of recycling standards and containers which vary from region to region.” An example is where both Calgary and Edmonton City Councils recently approved new single-use item bylaws that are somewhat different and will be implemented at different times, so Restaurants Canada continues to advocate for a harmonized approach between all levels of government and for one set of easily understood packaging regulations and bylaws (for both consumers and restaurateurs) applied across Canada.

For takeout orders, Jubinville says that they encourage restaurants to accept customers’ clean reusable containers and require restaurants to have a policy to accept customers’ reusable cups. “If reusables aren’t an option, we encourage restaurants to use locally recyclable containers, like unlined cardboard, clear or white plastic, and aluminum.”

“We want Calgarians to get into the habit of requesting items such as utensils, condiments, and napkins only when needed,” Fesko adds. “They can carry a reusable fork, spoon, and cloth napkin with them when dining out.”

While neither city specifically tracks plastic waste from restaurant or dining, both cities undertake waste characterization studies and estimate that millions of single use plastics are disposed of each week.

Naturally, with anything that changes, there are stumbling blocks. Calgary Co-ops have had some headaches with their starch-based compostable shopping bags that are suitable for processing in municipal compost programs, but at the federal level they are still classified as a non-conventional plastics and not permissible. Some of the concerns focus around these bags as litter, or finding their way into landfills, incorrectly as recyclables, or otherwise contributing to the plastics problem. Time is running out on these shopping bags, and there is still some hope that a suitable resolution will be found.

Much more recently, there are some restaurant take-out containers that are going to be refundable at bottle depots. Alberta’s bottle refund program collects about 85 percent of beverage containers in the province, and that’s a solid foundation for diverting take out containers from the landfill. More and more manufacturers too are looking at reducing excess packaging, or weeding out plastics entirely where they can.

On a slightly sadder note, there hasn’t been too much movement towards a great, easily recyclable drinking straw, but on the other hand, I drink less soda now….

In Calgary, it is estimated that each week, going into the garbage are:

And in Edmonton, this is what ends up in the garbage on a weekly basis:

3.5 million plastic shopping bags 6.4 million plastic utensils 2.4 million disposable cups 2.4 million take out containers

1.75 million plastic shopping bags 2.3 million plastic utensils 1.75 million disposable cups 2 million take out containers

For more information on single use plastics, check out these websites: calgary.ca/waste/residential/single-use-items edmonton.ca/programs_services/garbage_waste/ single-use-items

And for restaurants:

info.restaurantscanada.org/hubfs/Resources/Toolkits/SingleUse-Items-ReductionStrategy-Guide.pdf September 2023 | Culinaire 31

THE BRITISH BANGER COMPANY

BORN IN THE UK

In a little town near the foothills of the Rocky Mountains is a rather unique business. Tim and Tracey Worsley are the owners of the British Banger Company, part butcher shop and part bakery with a growing side of deli and grocery. Since opening in 2019 it’s been a somewhat meteoric rise for the shop in this small community. From their humble beginnings of sausage and bacon to black pudding, burgers, pork pies, and more, the British couple from Lancashire are making a mark in Okotoks – and it’s all Made in Alberta.

“We won Best New Business of 2019 and we’d only been open five months”, says Tracey, in a video interview about the unexpected accolades. “Customers were thrilled to bits.” It’s a feeling palpable in every aspect of their business: a focus on their customers, dedication to producing an excellent product, and unwavering

appreciation for their community. The Worsleys decided to open their store in Okotoks because it was their first choice of place to live when they arrived from England in 2009. “The town has always felt like home.”

It all started at home, quite literally. In 2018 the couple began making sausage and bacon at their Okotoks house and their friends became taste-testers. With positive responses to bolster them, Tracey and Tim decided to make their products available to the public and they used social media to help with sales. The enterprise was grassroots from the ground up, crafted with love and created with a nod to their original long-time family business in Lancashire.

The Okotoks shop is only a few years old but Tracey and Tim’s background in butchery goes back more than two decades.

Back in the UK, the couple purchased their

family’s business in 2000 and expanded into the space next door only a few years later. They continued to develop products and kept growing, finding more success after placing 3rd in a Regional Sausage Competition (for their Minted Lamb and Cumberland sausages). The Worsleys sold the business in 2008 and moved to Canada a year later, thinking they would look at retirement. That idea didn’t last very long.

Now with ample space in the British Banger Company’s professional kitchen, Tracey and Tim prepare a more complete line of butchery goods – from English Style Ham, dry cured bacon, burgers (including gluten free), lamb, and sausages to classics like haggis and Bangers Black Pudding. The shop offerings have grown beyond meats to also include other items like clotted cream and scotch eggs. There are also baked goods, too – pasties, pork pies, and sausage ADVERTORIAL

rolls. It’s a proper taste of the UK right in Okotoks, but with a twist: everything here is Made in Alberta.

The pork and beef are from Red Deer and the 4H group, and the lamb comes from a local farmer in Arrowwood who also happens to be English. “Knowing that our customers are buying locally sourced and produced food makes us proud,” says Tracey. Their core dried ingredients used are actually imported from the UK, putting an authentic ‘British’ element into this Banger Company. “Everything here is made by hand, which is time consuming, but it gives us a great sense of achievement.” The secret ingredient is really this attention to detail, whether it was those early days in their home kitchen or their current (larger) professional one.

“The moment we heard about Made in Alberta, we knew we wanted to be part of it.” Product traceability and accountability from the source are important to Tracey and Tim. “Our customers know exactly where their products originate. It’s something that offers a difference and builds confidence with their purchases.”

The British Banger Company’s customer base reaches well beyond the immediate area with people driving from Calgary and further; for convenience they’ve launched an online store. As immigrants and Canadians, the couple is eager to share a taste of their heritage. “We’re proud of where we live, where we’ve chosen to call home, so we’re excited to be part of the Made in Alberta program.”

Demand for the Worsley’s tasty goods from the little shop in Okotoks has meant opportunity for growth with other local businesses – from those first heady months when they won best new business and spread the love around the neighbourhood, to bringing more business to the locals they buy product from. And everything they produce is still made by hand. “We stand proudly behind all of our products,” says Tracey. Being part of the Made in Alberta program allows them to leverage the program’s recognition in a way that’s challenging for a small business and tap into the increasing appetite for local.

The British Banger Company and all the tasty bites they make can be found in Okotoks at A17 Elizabeth Street.

To get a virtual taste of what’s in store, you can browse their growing line of

ADVERTORIAL

Made in Alberta products online at britishbangercompany.ca. When you do get to their shop, remember to bring your appetite.

Our unique Made in Alberta label clearly identifies local food and beverages that are made right here in Alberta. By purchasing Made in Alberta products, you are supporting Alberta’s growers, farmers, producers, and processors. When we choose local, we choose our neighbours. madeinalberta.co

Up, Up IPA! ...and beyond

W

e’ve talked here before (IPA All Day: What is Old is New Again, December 2020), about the IPA (sometimes called India Pale Ale) and how it grew out of the British Pale Ale in the late 1700s, and was the only version for over 200 years.

The American (sometimes called West Coast) IPA arrived with the growth of craft brewing and the evolution of hop farming in the American northwest in the late twentieth century. This became the dominant IPA style until the creation of the New England IPA in the early 2010s. Now, almost every brewery in North America has at least an American and/or a NEIPA on their menu.

Nonetheless, craft brewers continue exploring what other variants they can create. As the number of hop varieties keep growing, with new breeds not only being developed in the US, but also in Australia, New Zealand, and even Canada, brewers are

34 Culinaire | September 2023

BY DAVID NUTTALL given more opportunities to showcase them in various kinds of IPAs. This has resulted in the double and triple IPAs (with higher ABVs), and IPAs in different colours or made with a variety of grains and yeasts.

Just when you thought there wasn’t much more you could do with this category, along comes Phantasm, lupulin powder, hop extracts, and lupulin-enriched products. Phantasm is a powder made from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc grape skins that helps intensify fruit flavours and aromas. Lupilin powder is a concentrated form of the hop flower; an extraction that omits unwanted parts of the plant in order to not only enhance flavour and aroma, but also helps to minimize off-flavours. Hop extract contains the resins and oils from the plant and can provide bitterness and characteristics inherent to the hop variety.

Lastly, lupulin-enriched products are hop

pellets that contain more lupulin material than green matter, which is the leafy part of the cone. This product goes by many names, but the most popular in this area is Cryo Hops, trademarked by Yakima Chief Hops.

Brewers have also experimented with adding hops at different stages of the brewing process, in order to get a different character from the hop. Dry hopping (or double dry hopping) involves adding the hops after fermentation. These and other methods allow the brewer to use the hop for bitterness, flavour, aroma, or any combination of all three.

All of these recent developments have increased the variety in the IPA category, and as this century’s most popular beer, it shows no sign of slowing down. Here are some of the hundreds of newer IPAs available in Alberta, noting that many more are available seasonally or at taprooms only.

Double IPA - debuting out of West Coast breweries in the 1990s, it boosted both the IBUs and ABV of the American IPA. Blindman New Zealand Double IPA, 891151 Alley Kat Dragon Series, 829602 Last Best Tokyo Drift Turbocharged IPA, 841208 Of course, brewers continue to up the ante, leading to: Triple IPA - Flying Monkeys Sparklepuff, 10.2 percent ABV, 820080 Quadruple IPA - Flying Monkeys Space Age Sunshine, 11.6% ABV, 865881 Double/Imperial NEIPA - as with the American IPA, brewers take the original concept and increase the bitterness and alcohol.

Born Strong Roots, 888612 Medicine Hat Brewery and Valley Brewery Reaper of Death 4.0, 890096 Dry Hopped IPA - dry hopping is a popular method to showcase the particular qualities of a hop with less bitterness.

Prairie Dog Tail Twitcher, 877491 Sour IPA/NEIPA - a fusion of two styles: a bacteria infected mixed-fermentation beer with copious amount of dry hopping. The name says it all.

Town Square 2D Sour NEIPA, 819458 Dandy Fly By Sight Sour IPA, 867393

White IPA - another hybrid beer, made by hopping up a Belgian Wit. Spicy and citrusy with a subtle bitterness.

Trolley Five First Crush, 890226 Township 24 Highwater, 888062 Brut IPA - the lightest in body and colour of all IPAs, with less bitterness.

Evil Corporation Brutality Brut IPA, 881278

Milkshake IPA - if fruit is included in an IPA, lactose usually follows, creating beers that attempt to emulate the mouthfeel of a good old-fashioned milkshake.

Analog In Another Castle (peach, mango), 806894 Town Square Brain Freeze (orange), 822248

Cold IPA - an IPA brewed with lager yeast at a cooler temperature, resulting in a lager type mouthfeel and finish.

Prairie Dog Crispy Gurl, 877202

Black or Dark IPA - by using roasted or chocolate malt in the mash, it not only darkens the colour, but also contributes an extra flavour nuance to the final product.

Blindman Cascadian Dark Ale, 844404 Sawback India Dark Ale, 815641

Session IPA (ISA) - an attempt to counterbalance the high alcohol versions of IPAs by maintaining the flavour profile with usually less than 5 percent ABV. Analog Ready Paler Two, 4.5% ABV, 835472 Grizzly Paw Rundlestone Easy IPA, 3.9% ABV, 780014

Barrel Aged IPA - barrel aging anything is now popular, so why not IPAs? It exposes a new depth of flavour that is surprisingly noticeable even in a heavily hopped beer.

Grizzly Paw El Caballero Tequila Barrelled Aged IPA, 867665 Zero Issue Fangorn Bourbon Barrel Red Rye IPA, 870067

Fruit and Vegetable IPA - because hops can produce a cornucopia of flavour profiles, IPAs with added fruits or vegetables are few and far between, with brewers usually letting the hops speak for themselves.

Alley Kat Fruit-Hopia Tropical IPA (pineapple, pomegranate, raspberry), 883695 Born Alpenglow (cantaloupe), 889723 Hard Knox Burning Fuse (pineapple, jalapeño), 815732

All products above are around $17-$22 per pack or $5-$8 per single can, brewed in Alberta (except for Flying Monkey; Ontario), and are currently available.

Explore the wide variety of IPAs available and you will be surprised at how diverse they are.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary.

Follow @abfbrewed.

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Garlic Breath

Sept. 16 & 17

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Sept. 30 & Oct 01

Pumpkin Harvest

Oct. 14 & 15

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September Spirits D

36 Culinaire | September 2023

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

oes it seem like the warmer months have slipped by in a heartbeat? We often mutter (quite loudly) that it wasn’t a great summer, or there was too much rain, or it was too hot, or that the bugs were bad this year, but at the same time we know plenty of people that got “out” every chance they had – went for a walk or a hike, soaked their toes in cool

water, or sat out and got back in the groove of enjoying company.

This month, we are a little all over the place, some might still be looking for that outdoor tipple on the patio, while others are prepping for those colder days about to arrive. However your September is going, we hope you have a moment to smell the roses – for a little longer.

CÎROC Limited-Edition Honey Melon France Made with French vodka, and infused with honey and melon, this might have arrived too late on shelves to “define” one’s summer, but there is still time to get started. Fresh and light with clean melon and a hint of that honey sweetness, this will work neat over ice, but it’s really about those cocktail options.

Drinks like a melon fizz, a French 75, or the rest of the pantheon of umbrella or crushed iced drinks may benefit here – the hotter out the better!

CSPC 883172 $56

Kujira Ryukyu Whisky Inari, Japan Some of the most interesting whiskies popping up these days are coming from Japan. A completely rice-based mash with a unique koji (fermentation agent) found only in Okinawa, this whisky is lighter weight on the nose with distinctly rice distillate characters and rich, complexly layered spices and fruit with a clean, nutty, almost fig-like palate. Best of all, it has this mouthfeel that is perfectly ephemeral and silky at the same time.

CSPC 885622 $74-77

Baron D. Gin, France From Charente in France, home of Cognac just northeast of Bordeaux, comes this striking gin in a striking blue diamond bottle.

The complex, sweet and fruity nose will have you trying to identify the botanicals – they’re all there: six fruits (pear is dominant, smoothing the heat of the alcohol) and three aromatic plants, plus… macadamia nuts, which gives the gin a creamy mouthfeel. I like to sip it neat, but I’ll accede that a splash of tonic’s good too.

CSPC 871120 $57-59

Rhino Single Malt Scotch Whisky Scotland With a commitment to giving back, five percent of Rhino sales go towards the rehabilitation and rewilding of orphaned rhinos - it’s a good reason to give Rhino a try. A Speyside single malt, and matured in rum casks, the nose and palate evoke sweetness and leather with a fine balance of rum and toffee too before a lengthy finish. Bottled at 43 percent, it’s a fireside sipper, but even a teeny splash of water opens it up nicely.

CSPC 837850 $84-86

Galliano l’Aperitivo, Holland Wow, just smell the latest l’Aperitvo from Galliano! This viscous amaro is designed to be the base of an aperitivo, served over ice with twice the amount of prosecco or tonic, and a squeeze of lime or orange – and you’ll crave it while the weather’s still warm (and also when it’s cooler!).

There’s a bittersweetness from the citrus zests (bergamot too), and a delicious black pepperiness, along with eight or nine flavourful herbs, macerated and rested two weeks or more.

CSPC 822893 375 mL $19

Red Bank Whisky, Canada New to Canada and even newer to our province, Red Bank Whisky is a small batch blend of rye, corn, and wheat whiskies from Nova Scotia - and by master distiller Michel Marcil, who created the spiced Canadian rye, Spicebox Whisky.

It’s smooth and sensuous, and eminently sippable, just on its own or with a splash of water if you insist - and oh, by the way, Red Bank is the brainchild of Canadian celebrity and actor, Kiefer Sutherland who patently knows his whiskies!

CSPC 891154 $50-58

inspired seasonal dishes, with a sparkling reception and canapés, followed by a fabulous four course dinner!

Vine & Dine at My Little Italia, September 7, 14, and 17 We’re really looking forward to our Vine & Dine series at the brand new My Little Italia restaurant, as we know how amazing their elevated takes on traditional Italian dishes are!

Chef Christopher Hyde’s Last Supper! September 12 We’re thrilled to be able to host one last Vine & Dine dinner with Chef Christopher Hyde before he leaves Calgary for a new life in Vancouver! We’ll be at Lina’s Italian Market restaurant in Britannia for this farewell pairing dinner.

Vine & Dine at Fonda Fora, October 12, 22, and 28 We’re coming back to Fonda Fora for three Vine & Dine evenings of superb, authentic Mexican 6-course pairing dinners in the private dining room. Every evening here sold out very fast last year and the year before!

A One-Off Premium Pairing Dinner at Flores & Pine, October 19 We’re excited for our second pairing dinner at the beautiful Flores & Pine where we’ll enjoy a chef-crafted menu of

Harvest Vine, Dine and Demo at Sunterra Market, October 26 Chef Mo’s recipes from our harvest evenings are the most requested of any of our dinners! We’re coming back to Sunterra Keynote’s Market Lounge to enjoy a six-course “From the Farm” pairing meal, and chef will demonstrate a part of each delicious dish.

Luxury Wine & Culinary Tour of Northeast Spain, May 27–June 5, 2024 From the beautiful historic capital of Madrid to the famous wine regions of the north, come and experience the real Spain! This all-inclusive trip includes guided private visits to wineries of the famous regions of Rioja, Penedes, and Catalonia, private guided walking tours of Laguardia, Bilbao, Barcelona, Montserrat, Zaragoza, Logroño, and much much more!

New events and dinners are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca as these evenings sell out rather quickly!

Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and/or to be included in our bi-monthly updates so you hear about events before the rest of the city.

September 2023 | Culinaire 37

MAKING THE CASE

for the endless days of Summer I

By TOM FIRTH

might have rosé on my mind since I have a few here, but the recommendations and selections on these pages are really about wines that just work.

Work well for those shortening days, when a casual barbecue on the deck is the way to go, but also finding those last few days when it’s perfectly fine to sit outside and just breathe.

Next month, we publish the results from our 2023 Alberta Beverage Awards, so there won’t be room for my recommendations, though I’d highly encourage perusing that issue as you’ll be certain to find any number of well-made wines, beers, and spirits that easily pass muster no matter your taste, preference or budget.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Bonterra 2021 Organic Rosé, California

The Bonterra wines have long been leaders in organic and sustainable winemaking in America and in many ways helped prove to Albertans that organic wine can be well-made, wellpriced, and forward looking. Quite dry and perfectly casual, the rosé here is tart and zesty with big citrus and mild berry fruits, a pinch of tannin, and some wonderful balance. Serve chilled but not too cold (with light nosh or salty snacks).

CSPC 815933 $22-24

Flat Rock Cellars 2020 Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling, Niagara Peninsula Ontario

One of the best rieslings being made in Canda year after year, and one of my favourites from Ontario. Made from a tiny block of grapes established about 20 years ago, this steely and lime-centric bottle is the real deal with fine balance between austere mineral character and plump peachy fruits.

Delicious. Completely delicious – and quite dry.

CSPC 872959 about $40

Villa Sparina 2021 Gavi di Gavi, Italy

A beautiful wine from the north of Italy made from the cortese grape, Gavi doesn’t attract a lot of attention here, but it really should be on the radar for interesting whites. Rich and full flavoured with stone fruits like apricot and peach but a little zesty lemon and juicy apple notes too. Best of all is this mineral and herb style finish which help it sing with pork loin or seafoods. Best served nicely chilled.

CSPC 804291 $22-23 Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

38 Culinaire | September 2023

Argiano 2021 “NC”, Tuscany, Italy

The newest wine we are seeing from Argiano is the NC, or “Non Confunditur” meaning unique or unmistakable, but it would be just as easy to think of this as “no compromises”. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and sangiovese, the wine seems geared for the North American palate but still showing off some restraint for the cabernet flavours, intensity of merlot, and depth from the sangiovese.

Deep, almost resinous, and complex, it is a treat to enjoy.

CSPC 784977 $29

Santa Rita 2022 120 Sauvignon Blanc Central Valley, Chile

Kiona 2020 Lemberger, Red Mountain Washington,

Santa Rita 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Central Valley, Chile

Wente 2020 Beyer Ranch Zinfandel California

Ruby Tuesday 2022 Forever Young Riesling, Naramata Bench, British Columbia

Argiano 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Tuscany, Italy

I’ve had several vintages of Ruby Tuesday from Naramata, but I didn’t know they were in Alberta – so this was pretty exciting news indeed. From esteemed winemaker Graham Pierce comes this crisp and a little juicy riesling. Fairly dry with a smidge of sweetness, loads of citrus fruit and tart apple flavours with zesty, lean acids and a zippy finish. A treat for a cooler evening at the end of a hot day.

CSPC 862204 $35-38

My notes for the Argiano Rosso start off simply with “refined and complex”, and there was a small desire to just stop there. It’s really just that. Digging deeper, this junior of Brunello is exceedingly well-priced but shows off the reason sangiovese is responsible for many of the great Italian reds: lean fruits, tea leaf, intensely floral, and delicious. A worthy wine to stock up on and a fine match for long-simmering sauces.

CSPC 578047 $35

Sibaris 2019 Carmenère, Colchagua Chile

Flat Rock Cellars 2021 Foundation Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

With an excellent reputation for value and quality, Santa Rita has continued this legacy for many years. Central Valley sauvignon blanc is typically less herbaceous than those from New Zealand, but still full of those bright citrus aromas, and in the mouth, great balance with melon, lemon, and only a hint of grassiness or herbaceous tones. Easy, clean, and always delicious.

CSPC 275586 $15

Zinfandel should be a grape that gets more respect than it does currently.

Wente’s is bold and brassy with jammy, spicy, berry fruits, and blessed with some wonderful intensity. Big, but smooth tannins show on the palate with a mildly brambly fruit in support, but a clean, gentle blueberry fruit gives it a little extra delicacy too. Zin is a fine choice for a barbecue, and loves meaty dishes with a little fat too.

CSPC 600239 About $22

Cuatro Rayas 2020 Organic Rosé Castilla y Leon, Spain

The Spanish certainly know how to beat the heat and their wines are often among the best choices for summertime tippling.

A blend of tempranillo with the white grape verdejo, the nose is apple fruits with a bit of fruit peel and milder berry notes. Very dry on the palate, the flavours lean towards those citrus and berry fruits with a clean, lifted herbal and spicy finish.

Clean, delicate, and very refreshing – what more could one ask for?

CSPC 883968 $19

An always amazing, interesting, and simply delicious bottle from one of the best producers of the Lemberger grape in the world. A cool-climate superstar, a bottle like this is a little tightly wound this young, but rife with cherry style fruits, earthy spices, and virtually no oak on the nose or palate. Decant if you must, but this will be a gem with duck breast, or big red meat dishes.

CSPC 836487 About $32

I’ll freely confess that I sometimes forget about carmenère – but when I try it again, I wonder how it slipped my mind. For those that love bell pepper and cedar cabernets, you’ll like wines like this. Graphite, cedar and cola with deep cherry fruit, but also all those bell peppery characters too. Nice and full on the palate with softer tannins than cabernet, but great acids, balanced oak, and a long finish. Try pairing with big, meaty dishes.

CSPC 577379 $21

A wonderfully well balanced and expressive bottle of cabernet sauvignon with lots of black fruits, assorted spice box, a little bit of licorice root and some beautiful tobacco leaf earthiness round out the nose. Balanced black fruit show up in the mouth with mid-weight tannins and a fairly agreeable balance without being too serious. Would be excellent with grilled meats or meaty sauces.

CSPC 218644 $15

Generally, once or twice a year, I get to judge Canadian wine, and honestly – I’d love to see more pinot from Ontario.

Completely vibrant with tart red berry fruit, a clean herbal, leafy note, and a rather spicy, brambly finish on the palate. But it’s really the nose that evolves continually tying it all together, and it’s a hard glass to put down. A wine that does go with almost anything, but perhaps with duck confit, or a little charcuterie would be in order.

CSPC 846133 $29 September 2023 | Culinaire 39

e tce te r a . . .

Vintage Crime : A Short History of Wine Fraud

An interesting and entertaining take on the seedier underside of wine. Fraud, in many cloaks and guises, has almost always been involved in the world of wine and in more ways than one might think. Covering a wide range of various crimes in various times, this engaging, and deeply researched book is a fine resource for enthusiasts of the vine, but also true crime, and history. Releasing in very early October.

UC Press $40

The Spice Bar Harvest Snaps Baked Veggie Snacks

We’ve enjoyed Calbee’s Harvest Snaps Baked Veggie Snacks many times here and in the US, and now there are more flavours of these green pea-based snacks as well as red lentil snacks too. Always baked (never fried!) try Tomato Basil, Black Pepper, Caesar, and Wasabi Ranch, not only for nibbling but for dipping, and crumbled for breading and crunchy salad toppers. Gluten, nut, and soyfree. 85 g/94 g bag $3-4, available at Safeway and Sobeys, and other markets.

We’re loving these “Flavours of Africa’ packages of spices from The Spice Bar. The Edah family (mum Onome, and daughters Tej and Faramade) have crafted a collection of culturally authentic spice blends that may have you Googling “Lasgidi” (slang for Lagos in Nigeria), Ajebutter, Jollof Rice if you’re not familiar, Suya, and Banga Soup. We’ve tried them in many ways, on chicken pieces, with veggies, fish, in rice and soups, and we’ve been delighted with the results every time. 100 g $10-12, spicebaryyc.com

Space Pantry Freeze Dried Candy

Did you ever wonder what astronaut food is like? We did, and you can try a wide selection of candies, desserts, and ice creams from Airdrie’s The Space Pantry, where Theresa and William Hibbert have been freeze-drying everything from Creme Eggs to Sour Puffs, Marshmallows, Toffees, Skittles, and a lot more (with gluten-free options too) for a few years in their AHS approved kitchen.

Without moisture, these fun treats become light and airy, and a bit crunchy too! Around $5-7 thespacepantrycanada.com NotChicken Nuggets Origin Organic Sparkling Water

There’s a lot of flavoured waters available these days, and quite often we’re disappointed to taste artificial flavouring and sweeteners, so it was a rather nice surprise to try these Origin Organic Sparkling Waters. Containing just natural spring water and 100 percent non-GMO natural flavours, along with carbon dioxide for the bubbles, there’s a choice of three flavours – Peach, Lime (our favourite), and Triple Berry. 6-pack 355 mL cans $6 at Circle K, Petro Canada and Shell.

40 Culinaire | September 2023

We were impressed with NotMilk, and now food tech company, NotCo, have launched NotChicken. Created with the help of AI, these vegan, plant-based nuggets tick all the boxes – they’re well seasoned, and have the right weight, texture, and taste, thanks to the use of bamboo fibre, pea and fava bean protein. Non-GMO, lactose- nut- and cholesterol-free, they’re also available as NotChicken Burgers. Find them at Save On Foods, Safeway, and other markets. Around $8.

Meal Prep Competition and Showcase is Friday October 27!

Our first

We’re shining a spotlight on Calgary’s Meal Prep companies, their food, and their menus!

It’s another fun, entertaining, informative - and very delicious evening, so sign up at culinairemagazine.ca/mealprep and try these meals for yourself!

There are some extremely good options - and more options than ever - for having ready to eat meals delivered to your door - no kits and no cooking - so come along to the East Village on October 27 evening for our first meal prep competition and showcase to learn about the city’s best meal prep offerings and try the meals for yourself.

We’ll be having some fun with a competition to find the best, with four prominent local food personalities judging the meals – and we want your help to find the people’s choice winner by voting for your favourite too, with prizes for the winning businesses.

Registration is now open Friday October 27, 2023 @culinairemag /CulinaireMagazine @culinairemag culinairemagazine.ca

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with

Vince Parent

BY LINDA GARSON

V

ince Parent has fond memories of growing up in Estevan, Saskatchewan; his hardworking parents both ran small businesses, and were always looking to make the little town a better place to live.

He studied Political Science at the University of Regina, and finished his degree in Toronto, working as a waiter and bartender too. “I was a really, exceptionally bad waiter, and a pretty good bartender, and that was the start of it,” he laughs.

After a few years, Parent and his wife-to-be, Janice, moved west to Calgary where he began a career in sales, marketing, and business development, with Rogers and then with Panasonic for Western Canada. A stint with a small environmental company had meant several trips to Calabria in Italy, “where I fell in love with food and wine, and the Italian people, I'm an Italian wannabe,” he says. Their consensus-building way of doing business left a lasting impression, and Parent hopes he carried that over in his management style. “If you can engage (the staff) as more than just an employer - and they're bringing stuff to the table, it makes for a really positive environment,” he explains.

Working then in investor relations, the company he was working for bought Symons Valley Ranch, in Calgary. “But just before we closed on the project, the market burnt down, so we closed on it anyway, and I ended up working as a general manager there for a couple years in the old farmhouse with the vendors who got burnt out - it was actually the genesis of the Mercantile Store,” says Parent.

They recreated the store, which Janice 42 Culinaire | September 2023

manages, in Avenida Food Hall when it opened five years ago, and then came up with the idea of a wine bar in the food hall, managed to get a license, and created SIPS, followed a couple of years later with a second location at Calgary Farmers' Market.

But then COVID hit: “That one really hurt us because going to 25 percent of the seating was really difficult,” he admits. “They close at 5:00 pm, then I was working Avenida at night. It was a tough time for everyone and a tough time for us. We ended up selling everything that wasn't bolted down.”

Being at the south market, Parent knew he would get first dibs at the new Calgary Farmers’ Market West. “I'm position ‘A’ there and I'm the only one with a license to sell for consumption. I've got 400 seats I can sell to, and it's been going well.

It's stabilized the household in terms of income - all three bars are now almost all in the black,” he says. “I'm not that smart but I'm good at seeing talent, and I've got a lady that works for me at the south market and a lady that now handles Avenida, and they’re amazing. They're invested in the business, always looking at improvements, and the quality control

is impeccable. I've given them the reins; I said, ‘it's your show, you tell me what you need from me and if I can facilitate it, I will.’ They're bringing their ideas and their energy, I'm very fortunate right now to have those folks.”

So what bottle is Parent saving for a special occasion?

“We used to frequent Caesar's Steakhouse quite a bit before we decided to be entrepreneurs, and we always enjoyed it there. We'd often go there with our two boys, one of their girlfriends, and the mother-in-law, but we've done very little of that for the last five years,” he explains.

Parent had planned a dinner for everyone as soon as the store and the bars were back up to speed again, and wanted a champagne to start the evening, so he’d bought a bottle of Gaston Chiquet, the first champagne grower to produce wine instead of just selling grapes.

“We did our year end a quarter ago and I was going to wait till the next year end, but we're not going to do that. We're going to do a quarter end, and sometime in the fall we're going to pop that bottle and go to Caesar's. It'll be the whole family again.”