A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S JA N UA RY/ F E B R UA RY 2 024
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contents
Volume 12 / No. 8 / January/February 2024
departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
7
Book Review
8
24
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
BReD Sourdough Loaves, Small Breads, and other Plant-Based Cooking By Ed Tatton with Natasha Tatton
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
8
A feast for any kind of family
34 Making the Case
…for being good neighbours!
37 Etcetera
26
What’s new?
38 Open That Bottle
With Julia Le, operations manager and distiller at The Fort Distillery
12 12 Parmesan Reggiano V Cheddar Cheese
…which one reigns supreme? by Shelley Boettcher and Adrianne Lovric
16
ON THE COVER At this time of year, it’s comfort food all the way for us – and your comfort food is largely dependent on where you grew up and ate at home as a child. It can range from fish & chips to congee, lasagne to pizza, poutine to BBQ, dahl and chicken tikka masala, and everything in between. We’re celebrating Ukrainian comfort food this issue, so many thanks to Katarzyna Kowalewska for her striking and dynamic photograph of a delicious bowl of borscht!
The Great Without: Alcohol-free wines, beers, and spirits are here to stay by Tom Firth
20 Step By Step:
Marmalade and whisky bread pudding by Renée Kohlman
22 Off the Menu
Rouge Chef Dean Fast’s GlutenFree Bread by Linda Garson
24 Digging in to Dim Sum
A deep dive into dim sum and where to find them! by Patricia Lau
26 Ease in the New Year
It’s time for sheet pan cooking by Natalie Findlay
30 Take a Journey on Alberta’s Ale Trails
Six Ale Trails showcasing breweries along the way by David Nuttall
32 Traditional Ukrainian Comforts
Comfort food to many, we’re highlighting local Alberta gems where you’ll find it by Erika Ravnsborg
36 Winter Spirits
Warming brown spirits are in our thoughts right now by Tom Firth and Linda Garson January/February 2024 | Culinaire 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
So much to celebrate…
W
hen we start to plan out each issue of Culinaire, first we look to see what is topical and seasonal, if there are any holidays or festivals to consider, or gatherings that might be associated with particular food or drinks. Most issues have at least one noteworthy celebration to feature, and in some months not much happens – but in January and February, we’re spoilt for choice with all the possibilities for articles and topics to talk and write about. In Alberta, it’s pretty safe to expect a chilly couple of months at this time, so we might be wanting to cosy up inside with warming, comfort foods. And I hesitate to mention it, but those credit card statements will be arriving any time now from holiday spending, and we might be looking for more value-based meals and ingredients.
Some celebrate Christmas on January 7, and some might be thinking of cutting back, or even cutting out, alcohol and starting the year afresh, but many still enjoy Robbie Burns Day and celebrate with a few drams of the hard stuff. We’ve seen quite the increase of interest in whisky recently – are you on the whisky train? If not, it could be time to get on board. Last month I was invited to spend a few days in Louisville, Kentucky, visiting distilleries and gaining a greater understanding and appreciation of bourbon. It was a wonderful experience, and definitely to be recommended for a visit, but there’s still so much more to
learn – I might have to go back! February is not only the month of love with Valentine’s Day celebrations, another excuse to eat and drink, and on February 10, when we’ve had a chance to fully recover from the excesses of December and January, it’s the Lunar New Year - and another sixteen days of indulgence. Whilst we don’t have room for in-depth articles on every one of these special occasions, in this issue we have tried to include most of them, and I really hope you enjoy reading it. Wishing you a very happy Year of the Dragon, Gung hay fat choy, Cheers
Linda, Editor-in-Chief
Hearty. Healthy. Wholesome. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Communications Assistant Katherine Puhl katherine@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Shelley Boettcher, Natalie Findlay Dong Kim, Katarzyna Kowalewska Renée Kohlman, Patricia Lau Adrianne Lovric , David Nuttall Erika Ravnsborg, Keane Straub
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our contributors Patricia Lau
Patricia loves to seek out delicious food experiences locally and beyond, wherever her travels take her. Her passion for culinary adventures has resulted in many foodcations to Japan, Europe, as well as coast to coast across North America. In her home city, she keeps close tabs on Calgary’s dining scene and is often eating out and sharing her food adventures on various social media platforms. Find her on Instagram @miss_foodie.
SOME CALL IT SEASONING,
WE CALL IT
SOUL.
Adrianne Lovric
Adrianne is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Fuelled by caffeine and curiosity, she always says yes to dark roast and opportunities for new adventures. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
FEBRUARY 2-11 EXPLORE EDMONTON’S BLACK CULINARY SCENE
Katarzyna Kowalewska
Katarzyna is originally from Poland, and she has found her home here in Alberta. It wasn't until she married a chef that she found her passion for food and beverage photography, and now works as a freelance photographer, creating drool-worthy images of food and vibrant drinks. Her equally important love is portrait photography. Katarzyna is also passionate about baking, a big-time bookworm, and crazy about puzzles.
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
DINE IN TAKE OUT DELIVERY @FEEDTHESOULYEG FEEDTHESOULYEG.CA
SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S
After six and a half years, Calgary's Calcutta Cricket Club has moved and is now at 1213 1 Street SW. The 100+ seat space is Maya Gohill’s second restaurant design; it took just over a month to build out – and it’s stunning. The menu has many familiar faves but many new, modern Indian dishes as well as crazy good cocktails, and they’re open for lunch now too from 11:30am. Their aim is for you to leave happier than when you came in, and we’re in no doubt they’ll achieve it. Resos are recommended, and we’re excited for the new sister cocktail bar downstairs, Para (neighbourhood in Bengali) coming soon! Edmonton has a new downtown coffee shop, Bar Oro in Energy Square, and a private speakeasy venue for up to 100 people with great food by Café Amore, Black Pearl, and Café De Oro, as well as superb mixology and service from Ultimate Bartending. 10550 Jasper Avenue. Calgary’s Kama has a new late night program. Nighthawk is bolder, louder, casual, and with more mingling, and music by Kinfolk DJ’s and friends. The kitchen is serving Kama classics as well as fried Manchego cheese and a smaller Chicken Slouvlaki, with a drinks menu of eclectic Mediterranean wines and elegant cocktails. 211 11 Avenue SW. Fridays and Saturdays 10pm-1am. Jacqueline Jacek has celebrated another milestone with the opening of her shop in Edmonton’s Crestwood area at 9674 142 Street. Open seven days until 5pm, online at jacekchocolate.com 6 Culinaire | January/February 2024
Kelowna’s Salt and Brick is open in Calgary and they’ve come out of the gate strong – very strong, but that’s no surprise with Chefs Dave Bohati, Alejandro Buzzalino, and Larissa Costella in the kitchen, and Dallas Tambeau up front. Buzzalino’s raw bar menu changes daily, and the small plate, familystyle, contemporary Canadian menu changes weekly, though a few dishes, like the Brussels sprouts and Chicken Ballantine are here to stay, and there’s a comprehensive drinks list with plenty of Canadian wines. It’s four times bigger than the Kelowna restaurant with 152 seats and a 12-seat private room, and so far equally successful – be sure reserve in advance! 211 10th Avenue SW, from 5pm, closed Monday. saltandbrick.ca With six locations in Ontario, Ice Flame has opened its first outlet in the west in Edmonton, at 9728 Ellerslie Road SW, serving up premium ice cream rolls in a variety of flavours, as well as falooda (a north Indian sweet milk dessert), and shakes. Seven days 12-12, theiceflame.com Chef Ashish and Mira Damle of Namo have launched Anantaya –an evening pop-up in their Calgary Beltine location at 396 11th Avenue SW, and a tribute to his father. There’s a terrific menu of half-plates, curries, and biryanis, but come hungry and order the weekly changing thali platter with your choice of curry plus 11 more small dishes. It’s excellent value and really delicious, and there are cocktails (try the hard Shikanji!), wine, beer, and zero proof drinks too to wash it all down. Wednesday-Sunday 5-10pm. namocafebistro.com/anantaya
Nagoya Japanese Cuisine has been a staple for sushi in Edmonton, and now they’ve opened a second location in Windermere at 17308 Hiller Road S. This location focuses on only Japanese food with more rolls than their north location. Seven days 11am-9pm. Lina’s has opened a fifth location at Calgary’s Deerfoot City. However, Lina’s Market Hall is not only a grocery store, there’s a café, a lounge area, and a food hall with nine different options for dining in or taking away with you! Seven days, from 9am at 901 64 Avenue NE. Vicki and Heath have opened Gratitude Coffee, a new multi-roaster, bright and comfortable, specialty coffee shop in Sherwood Park at 132, 2833 Broadmoor Boulevard. Open to 4pm, closed Sundays. gratitudecoffee.ca Calgary’s Phil & Sebastian have launched Bloom - a completely new food program -in their Marda Loop location. Check out Aussie Chef Tyson's fun new menu of great value, hearty, made from scratch food, with ingredients from local farmers. Seven days 7:30-2:30pm at 2043 33 Avenue SW.
B O O K R E V I E W BY TO M F I RT H
BReD Sourdough Loaves, Small Breads, and other Plant-Based Cooking By Ed Tatton, with Natasha Tatton, Penguin Random House $50
M
aking bread at home seems to have this incredible barrier to entry – that is entirely unfounded. It does take a little patience, a little alchemy, and a bit of trial and error, and all of these are very much in the realm of possibility – and what better way to spend the winter months than surrounded by the delectable scent of baking? Starting things off in BReD is a crucial, and very well photographed section on shaping and forming several types and loaves of bread - important for crafting a fine looking loaf - equally important is the baking process or methods including options for bread pans, cast iron, or baking stones. From there, we go straight into an entire chapter on sourdough (but additional sourdoughs are scattered throughout). From the classics (p.55) to the Stout and Potato Sourdough (p.87)
and to a rustic and foraged “Boreal Forest Loaf” (p.89) there’s plenty for the wild at heart and those looking for something far off the beaten path. The section on Small Breads may very much appeal to the neophyte baker with baguettes and sourdough pizza dough, but Naan Bread (p.120) and a family favourite at breakfast, English Muffins (p.123) are also here! For the sweeter tooths, a hit might be the Spiced Carrot and Walnut Cake (p.183) or the divine-looking Raspberry, Lemon, and Coconut Cake (p.191), while in the “Celebration” chapter, folks might like to try the Lentil, Mushroom, and Herb “Sausage” Rolls (p.277). The Tattons have done fine work with detailed explanations and methods, but also with beautiful photography throughout by Janis Nicolay and Darby
Magill. Notably, they have a tremendous connection to sustainable eating, zero waste, and vegan or plant-based foods, and many of the recipes will call directly for these plant-based alternatives leaving some readers returning constantly to the introduction looking for what the non-plant based substitutions might be. Readers already enjoying plant-based or vegan dishes will likely love that this book is written for them, and they won’t be the ones looking to figure out what or how the egg alternative would be.
A Look at Food Insecurity When you know, you can start to make change. Food insecurity is when a household has inadequate or insecure access to food due to financial constraints.
The 2023 Vital Signs report is out now.
It’s on the rise:
Discover more about local food insecurity with Vital Signs. Read Now.
In 2011, 12.3% of Albertans were experiencing food insecurity. In 2022 that number jumped to 20.3%.
Some experience it more than others: 21.7% of children (people under the age of 18) lived in food insecure households in Alberta. (2021)
28.9% of Black households living with food insecurity compared to 11.1% of white households. (2017-2018) 30.7% of Indigenous households in Canada were
Between 2000 and 2020, the average grocery bill has increased by 70%.
experiencing food insecurity, twice the amount of white households. (2022)
Edmonton Vital Signs is an annual checkup conducted by Edmonton Community Foundation, in partnership with Edmonton Social Planning Council, to measure how the community is doing.
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
A Feast for Any Kind of Family BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM
A
family meal among restaurant staff is just like as it sounds: a hearty dish that is put together by the chefs on shift to be shared with the staff before the lunch or dinner rush starts. It must be quick, easy, filling,
As the chef of both Olea and Sensei in Calgary, Chef Richard McLarens draws on his childhood for inspiration when it comes to cooking. “My parents cooked mostly traditional Caribbean food growing up, so I was exposed to great flavours early on. There was always a homecooked meal for me and my brother.” It’s a one kitchen, two dining rooms situation where Chef Rich works, but that just means twice as many amazing dishes to choose from. “Olea’s Beet Salad is my favourite,” he says, “but on the Sensei side it’s its our Gochugaru Ginger Chicken.” Keeping that spicy warm feeling going, Chef Rich shares his recipe for an oft-asked for staff meal, Chipotle Cheddar Pasta. “I made this pasta for myself on shift using ingredients from a Burger that was on the menu at the time. Suddenly I was getting asked to make it multiple times a week for everyone from my dishwasher to the General Manager.” Take some time to batch the chipotle pâté, suggests Chef Rich. “It can be portioned and frozen ahead of time, giving you something tasty and easy to make in a pinch with little prep time.” 8 Culinaire | January/February 2024
and, of course, delicious. And, just like a family favourite at your own dining table at home, these meals are often requested again and again. It’s not often we think about what those who are working are eating, so
we asked some of our chef friends here in Alberta: what do you make for your restaurant family on shift? From soups to pasta to pizza and more, these recipes are hits with staff, and will be with your own family, too.
Chipotle Cheddar Pasta Serves 2
¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil 10 g garlic, minced 20 g shallot, minced ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine for deglazing 20 g chipotle peppers in adobo, rough chop 225 mL tomato sauce 1/3 cup (80 mL) whipping cream 110 g your favourite short noodle 10 g snow peas 20 g sundried tomatoes 110 g Cheddar cheese, for garnish
1. Heat oil in a pan and sweat the garlic and shallots before deglazing with white wine. Add the chipotle peppers. 2. Let the oils from the peppers permeate the veg before adding tomato sauce and whipping cream. 3. In a separate pan, cook your pasta until just before al dente and add to the sauce. 4. Add your snow peas and tomatoes to the sauce and toss to fully incorporate before plating. 5. Garnish with your cheddar and enjoy.
Pistachio Pesto: Makes 2 cups
1 scant cup fresh basil leaves 2 Tbs Parmesan cheese 3 full Tbs pistachios 2 garlic cloves To Taste sea salt ¼ lemon, zested To Taste black pepper ¼ cup + 3 Tbs (100 mL) olive oil
As Executive Sous Chef at Forte in the Pomeroy Kananaskis Mountain Lodge, Taylor Tays says inspiration comes from regionality. “When we look at a dish, we look at the main ingredient, where it’s coming from, and what kind of complemented flavours we can put together,” he explains. Chef Tays, a self-proclaimed ‘pizza guy’, is more than ready to share the one go-to pie that both he and his staff love to eat, Burrata and Mortadella Pizza. “This is my go-to pizza - what I eat, and what our staff love to eat.” “It speaks to me; the quality of meat, the burrata. The white sauce, pistachio pesto, and cheese, is rich and light at the same time - it’s perfect.” Keep things simple. There’s no need to ferment the dough. You can switch out ingredients for what you crave: mortadella and prosciutto for salami, a traditional pesto, you could do basil with pine nuts, almonds, or leave the nuts out, change greens to something bitter like rapini, even mozzarella in place of burrata – though the latter is hard to beat!
Pizza Dough:
Makes 2 x 30 cm (12”) pizzas ½ tsp yeast 1½ cups (360 mL) iced cold water 1/8 cup sourdough starter/levain 2 cups double zero flour 2 cups bread flour 1¾ Tbs salt ½ Tbs (7 mL) olive oil for brushing on top 1. Dissolve yeast in water. 2. Combine all dry ingredients together in a mixing bowl or stand mixer. Add wateryeast mixture and sourdough starter. 3. Mix on low speed for 15 minutes using dough hook attachment and rest dough for 10 minutes. 4. Mix on medium speed for 6 more minutes. Allow dough to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. 5. Punch down dough and weigh out in 300 g balls. 6. Grease baking sheet with olive oil and line up balls leaving space for them to rise. Brush with olive oil and let rest in fridge for 2 days.
Combine all ingredients in food processor and blend until chunky smooth. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Store in refrigerator up to 1 month.
The Pizzas:
Makes 2 x 30 cm (12”) pizzas ½ cup (120 mL) crème fraîche 2 Tbs Parmesan cheeese ½ cup shredded Mozzarella 8 slices mortadella, cut in half and rolled 2 balls burrata 1 cup arugula Drizzle olive oil To Taste sea salt 1. Stretch each ball of pizza dough out to 20 cm (12 inch) diameter. 2. Spread with crème fraiche and sprinkle on cheeses. 3. Bake in pizza oven or on pizza stone at 425º F until crust is golden brown with slight charring on crust. 4. Remove pizza from oven and drizzle with pesto. Cut into 8 slices. 5. Place rolled mortadella on each slice of pizza and top with arugula. 6. Finish with burrata in the centre, drizzle with olive oil and a sprinkle of good sea salt. January/February 2024 | Culinaire 9
heat to maintain texture. Season and taste as you go. And have a glass of wine while cooking!”
Fresh ingredients are high on any chef’s list of must-haves, and it’s no different for Chef Lindsay James at Edmonton’s Darling Restaurant. “I love to let an ingredient shine for what it is, for what the farmer has grown, and to appreciate what we’ve been given by simply seasoning it appropriately.” Perusing the menu gives you an idea of the care and craft used by Chef Lindsay and her staff: Brassica Salad, Turkish Eggs, Duck Rillette. Anchovy on Brioche is her favourite. “It’s extremely simple but hits the spot every time. I could easily eat five pieces.” In the kitchens at Darling, Tomato and Mushroom Cassoulet stands out as an often-prepared staff meal. It’s affordable and hearty, easy to put together, and it also helps us clean out our fridges by using up odds and ends.” Comfort food should be kept simple, adds Chef Lindsay. “Cook your proteins low and slow, cook your veggies on high 10 Culinaire | January/February 2024
Roasted Tomato & Mushroom Cassoulet Serves 4
225 g dried cannellini beans 150 g whole cherry tomatoes 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 150 g oyster mushrooms (can substitute for any kind of mushrooms on hand) 1 shallot, julienned 10 g garlic, minced 1 Tbs (15 mL) red wine vinegar 4 cups (1 L) mushroom broth 2 tsp (10 mL) dark soy sauce 2 handfuls arugula 10 g parsley, chopped To Taste salt and pepper 1. In a bowl add dried beans and cover with 1-2 litres water. Allow to sit overnight so that the beans can absorb moisture. Canned beans can also be used if making the recipe day of, just make sure to rinse the beans and add at the end of the recipe instead. 2. Preheat the oven to 425º F on the
convection setting. If your oven does not have a convection setting, preheat to 450º F. 3. Toss the cherry tomatoes lightly in a bit of oil, generously sprinkle with salt. Place onto a baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes, or until tomatoes are a dark golden brown. 4. Add oil to a medium sized pot and set the temperature to high. Once oil is shimmering, add mushrooms, shallot, salt and pepper (always seasoning as you go). 5. Reduce heat to medium once the shallot and mushrooms have softened, add the garlic, cook until fragrant. 6. Deglaze the pan with red wine vinegar. 7. In the meantime, strain the beans from water and add into the pot. 8. Add the mushroom broth and allow to simmer on medium low heat for 15 minutes with the lid on, occasionally stirring. 9. After 15 minutes or once the beans are al dente, add in dark soy sauce and roasted tomatoes, mixing thoroughly. Cook for another 10-15 minutes on high heat, adjusting seasoning with salt or pepper as needed. 10. Lastly, sprinkle with arugula and chopped parsley and enjoy!
Peter Tsoulamanis’ inspiration for cooking comes as much from his environment as it does entertainment. He grew up watching cooking programs on TV, but he also trained his attention on his parents, watching them cook traditional Greek cuisine. As the owner of TOPS Pizza in Calgary, Peter’s culinary education is still in full swing. “I am lucky enough to learn from our chefs with a variety of different culinary backgrounds. It has allowed me to learn different techniques and experience different cultural dishes as well.” Pastas and soups served at TOPS are Peter’s favourite. “Both dishes can be as simple or complex as the chef wishes to make them, and they will bring out all your skills, techniques and attention to flavours when you’re putting together a tasty dish.” A three-for one is a deal no one can pass up after the holidays, and Peter shares his recipes for Tomato Minestrone, Chicken Noodle, and Beef Barley Soups, all made using the same base, but easy enough to modify. “Have fun with the recipes by changing vegetables, seasoning or the pasta ingredient. There are so many noodles and rices to choose from, experiment and see which ones you enjoy the most!”
Chicken Noodle Soup Serves 4
Homemade Stock:
To make your stock put 2 chicken legs with the back attached or 4 drumsticks, 1 medium onion, 1 large carrot, and 1 celery stick, in a large pot and top with water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1-2 hours. Strain liquid and set aside. 2 chicken breasts, cubed 6 Tbs (90 mL) olive oil 1 small onion 2-3 celery sticks 2-3 medium carrots ½ Tbs salt ½ Tbs black pepper ½ Tbs chicken soup base (if desired) 4 cups (1 L) homemade chicken stock (can substitute premade chicken broth) ¾ cup "ditali lisci" no 60 pasta (can substitute orzo, macaroni or any small uncooked pasta) Water as needed For a creamier, heartier soup: Add a roux. Whisk ¼ cup butter with ¼ cup flour in a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium low heat until melted and smooth. Cook for an additional minute.
1. Saute chicken breasts in olive oil. Remove from pan when cooked. 2. Add vegetables, salt, and pepper, and chicken soup base (if using). Saute for a few minutes until vegetables are golden. 3. Add back in cooked chicken as well as homemade chicken stock or chicken broth. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour. 4. Add in pasta. At this point if you choose to make a roux, combine it with soup and mix. Once pasta is cooked to your liking, the soup is done. Gradually add any excess water throughout to top up as needed.
Variations:
Beef and Barley Soup – substitute 2 cups of cubed beef for chicken breasts, beef stock/broth for chicken stock, and ¾ cup of pearl barley for the pasta. Minestrone Soup – Add a large can (785 g) crushed tomatoes, 55 g tomato paste, and ½ Tbs dried dill. Omit chicken breasts if desired.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. January/February 2024 | Culinaire 11
Parmesan Reggiano v. Cheddar Cheese which one reigns supreme?
Courtesy the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, Parma, Italy.
The Key to “Grater” Happiness BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER
You can have your Cheddar, your Brie, your Camembert, too. When it comes to the world’s greatest cheeses, there is only one atop my list — Parmigiano Reggiano. I eat a little of it every day. Some days, I eat a lot. Gino Marghella understands my passion — maybe even more so, seeing as he’s actually Italian. I’m just a wannabe. “To me, it's the world's best because it represents my culture, our traditions. I believe there is no other cheese in the world more recognized and used more often than Parmigiano Reggiano,” says Marghella, general manager of Italian Centre Shop in Calgary. He, like so many of us, remembers that infamous green and white shaker of fake stuff on our tables back in the 1970s and ’80s in Canada. (It’s still around but let’s pretend it isn’t.) That powdery stuff and its wood pulp filler, on the label as cellulose powder, was a gateway cheese to authenticity. “Like most immigrants, we couldn't afford the real thing back then and it wasn't as accessible,” Marghella says. Now however, he often has the pleasure of cracking open genuine fragrant wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano — straight from Italy — for Albertans who are also under the real thing’s spell. “Seeing people have such a sensory experience for the first time touches my heart,” he says. “Having my favourite cheese become a staple in so many households is really amazing.” “Parmigiano Reggiano is the pride of Italy,” Marghella says. Called the King of Cheeses by some, its roots are ancient, dating back to when Benedictine and Cistercian monks were experimenting with ways to preserve cow’s milk in long, hot European summers. (Refrigeration, as you smart readers already know, wasn’t a thing way back when.) They figured it out and by 1200, the first sales of Parmigiano Reggiano took place. These days, this dry, hard, aged cheese is still made with cow’s milk and formed into large, hard wheels that are typically cut into
A Cheese for Everyone, Cheddar is Just, Well… Better
BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC If you’re sharp, you know that cheddar is anything but a boring cheese. Bad puns aside, there is surely a cheddar that appeals to everyone’s tastebuds spanning the spectrum from fresh mild curds to flavourful, aged favourites. Originating in the 12th century in its namesake village of Cheddar, England, where local caves were once used to store the cheese, cheddar cheese remains a popular household staple. Today, Canada is a prominent and renowned cheddar producer alongside England, Australia, and the US. “When I was growing up, there was a block of cheddar on the table. That poor little fella rarely lasted the meal,” recalls Patrick Dupuis, of his family’s weekend meals. As owner and head cheesemaker at the The Old School Cheesery in Vermilion, Dupuis and his daughter have been perfecting their cheddar since 2015. They started with fresh and squeaky cheese curds, which are young cheddar, separated from the whey during the cheesemaking process, and later added cheddar blocks to their production. “To me, what makes cheddar better is that it can be eaten at any step of its aging process,” says Dupuis. “As curds, cheddar can be enjoyed the same day it’s made, but you can also let it age as long as you want, and as it ages it develops a different texture and different taste. It evolves.” The unique flavours and textures of various ages of cheddar cheese make it a beloved cheese to snack on or cook with. “Because of the curd formation in cheddar, it lends itself well to different presentations and different flavours,” says Carie Lee Watters of Calgary’s Springbank Cheese. Younger cheddars tend to be in the mild zone with lower tanginess, while older cheddars, which are higher in acidity and tanginess will almost peel the roof off your mouth, for those who like that experience. Then there are the magic cheddar crystals, that many people assume are salt, but are actually one of two things: calcium lactate that forms on the outside of cheddars as they age; or tyrosine, which is a component of the amino acids in milk, that crystalize as cheddar ages and is typically found in January/February 2024 | Culinaire 13
smaller wedges, or sometimes grated, for selling. It has a nutty, rich, salty-sweet flavour and as it gets older, it gets a richer, darker colour and more complex flavour. It also develops crunchy, shiny crystals made from the breakdown of proteins in the cheese. Every genuine wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano bears the letters DOP on the rind. The European Union’s legal designation, it stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta; the English translation is Protected Designation of Origin. Either way, the letters represent “a legal guarantee that the cheese was made by trained artisans in the area of origin, using only local ingredients and traditional age-old methods,” according to Italy’s Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. Parmigiano Reggiano can only be made in Italy and specifically, from one of these five regions: Bologna (to the left of the Reno River), Reggio Emilia, Mantua (to the right of the Po River), Modena, or Parma (and, in case you hadn’t guessed, that’s where the name of this cheese comes from.) Parmigiano Reggiano is regulated by the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, founded in 1934, the organization that includes all Parmigiano Reggiano producers, and protects the venerable cheese’s reputation around the world. Under its careful supervision, every wheel of cheese is given a mark of origin (the dots you can see on the rind) and is tested for quality. My friend Jessie Cayabo, when she heard I was writing this story, asked me a question. “If you were a cheese, which one would you be?” Her own response was simple. “Parmigiano Reggiano. It gets better with age, it’s super versatile, and most importantly, every inch of a wheel has purpose and value,” says Cayabo, founder and head of Edmonton’s Bonafide Media & PR. “Even the rinds are used to add flavour and depth to soups, sauces and stocks. You don’t see it in the final dish, but it absolutely made it taste better.” That, in a nutshell, is why Parmigiano Reggiano is the world’s best cheese. But if you need more reasons, it is also high in protein, low in carbohydrates, and high in calcium. It is lactosefree, less than 0.01 grams per 100 grams. It contains vitamin B12, zinc and other minerals, and it’s a good source of probiotic lactobacillus bacteria, the kind that keeps our guts in good shape. Younger Parmigiano Reggiano (12 to 18 months) is delicious with fresh apples, figs or pear slices, grapes or strawberries. Try the older cheeses (24 to 36 months) with dried apricots and Marcona almonds. One of the world’s most versatile cheeses for pairing with wine, it goes with champagne, cava, Chianti Classico or shiraz. It’s brilliant with a Negroni, and once, in Torino, I did an aged Parmigiano Reggiano and Cocchi dry vermouth pairing that was so good, I will think about it for the rest of my life. There must be thousands of recipes that contain Parmigiano Reggiano. In our house, we grate it over asparagus just after the veg has had a couple of minutes in the frying pan. We top tomato-based pastas with it, and we toss it in with lentil soup to give some umami flavour. We pilfer chunks of it from the fridge and drink with leftover wine late at night after a long workday. In the summer, we love it in salads — a favourite is arugula and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano dressed with a bit of fresh lemon juice and good olive oil. I sometimes break up
cheddars four years old and older. The ability to slice a younger cheddar for a sandwich, or to enjoy an older cheddar that is crumbly, makes it versatile for a variety of uses and recipes. Consider using cheddar in fondue mixed with other melty cheeses to add a flavour spike. Spritz up a pizza by accenting with sharp cheddars. Sharper cheddars can also be cubed and added to the centre of a burger patty so that when you cut or bite into it, it melts out. Of course, cheddar is the superstar in family favourites like mac and cheese and grilled cheese sandwiches. And would classic Canadian poutine even be poutine without fresh cheese curds over hot fries cloaked in gravy? When choosing a cheddar, Watters recommends considering your audience. If you are catering to younger kids, a marble cheddar might be the right choice, whereas a more refined foodie group would enjoy the more complex flavours of a Wookey Hole cheddar out of England’s Cheddar Gorge, or a clothbound aged Avonlea cheddar from Prince Edward Island’s Cows Creamery. “Classically, younger kids will be in the milder or medium zones, and as we get older, we start to appreciate the more intense flavours and ranges that aged cheddar offers,” says Watters. Ultimately it comes down to individual preferences. Cheddar purists might shun flavoured cheeses while others love the addition of Port or Guinness to their cheddar. Cheddar also lends itself to being paired with fruit. “I haven’t met an apple that doesn’t love cheddar,” laughs Watters, adding that it is also a great companion to beer, whisky, wine, cider and sake. “Cheddar is so versatile. The pairing capacity of cheddar comes down to its full range of aging and visual presentation, that you might not necessarily get with other cheeses. It’s not hard to pair a cheddar with whatever people are interested in.” “Whether it’s mild, medium or old, it’s got something for everyone,” says Ian Treuer, cheesemaker at Lakeside Farmstead located in Sturgeon County, Alberta. “It’s anything but boring,” he adds, referring to the misconception that cheddar is only the orange cheese you buy in a grocery store. As with any type of cheese, Treuer recommends looking at where it originates and considering trying something local that perhaps isn’t carried in a supermarket. “There are amazing cheese shops all over this province.” With no Protected Designation of Origin control over cheddar as with Parmesan, it can create more confusion about what cheddar is, but it also creates opportunities for unique cheddars such as with Lakeside’s trademarked chaga cheddar. “Cheddar is cheddar, as long as you follow the process,” says Treuer.
chunks and serve with dots of aged Italian balsamic vinegar, the kind that’s expensive and so thick it barely oozes from the bottle. Add a drop or two to your cheese and enjoy.
Caramelized Onion Cheddar and IPA Beer Fondue By Adrian Watters of Springbank Cheese Serves 4 (100g cheese/person)
200mL (3/4 cup + 1 Tbs) IPA beer 135 g each of caramelized onion cheddar; Swiss Gruyere, shredded; and Swiss Emmenthaler, shredded or diced 4 tsp all-purpose flour/or 1 Tbs cornstarch 1 tsp (5 mL) Kirsch (optional, but recommended) 1 loaf sourdough bread, cut into 2.5 cm cubes Your choice of chopped vegetables such as mushrooms, peppers, and broccoli, and/or bread 1. Simmer beer in a frying pan on stove top. Ensure carbonation is all gone. Add cheese, 100 g at a time. Stir after each addition of cheese until melted. 2. Add 4 Tbs (60 mL) of the fluid from the melted cheese to the flour or cornstarch and mix until a slurry is formed. 3. Stir into cheese mixture to thicken. Serve with cut-up French bread and vegetables.
Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits.
Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
The Great Without:
Alcohol-Free Wines, Beers, and Spirits are Here to Stay BY TOM FIRTH
S
ugar-free gum, scentless soaps, nut-free this and meat-free that, even gluten-free bread is everywhere. Our lives seem to be filling up with things that aren’t there, and it’s no different with alcohol-free options. Our shelves are bustling with new, fresh examples of alcohol free wine or beer, and yes, I’ll admit to struggling a little with some alcohol-free spirits – but they are out there. These may be disdained by the beverage enthusiasts, but brewers, distillers, and wineries are choosing to not miss out on this growing category. Alcohol has several roles in the organoleptic value of wine. Organoleptic meaning the sensory components, the smells, the tastes, and yes, the “feel” of a wine. Besides being an intoxicant, alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature than water making it a wonderful vehicle for all sorts of complex aromas and tastes that piggyback from the liquid in the glass to the sensory organs in your nose and mouth. It adds “body” to the wine and a richer, more viscous, mouthfeel. Together, this all adds up to what we call balance in our drinks. To many, alcohol – at least at lower amounts, also tastes good. Take away a significant leg (pun intended for those serious wine drinkers), and the whole structure becomes unstable – making that perceptible “hole” in alcoholfree beers, wines, and spirits. Back in the summer of 2023, Italian wine trendsetter and tastemaker publication, Gambero Rosso published a rather scathing assessment of non-alcoholic
16 Culinaire | January/February 2024
wine, and rightly they point out that in Italy, it can’t be called wine, and they do acknowledge that outside of Italy (but not really – gasp – within Italy!) there is a growing market for non-alcoholic alternatives for the consumer that aren’t soda pop. They also missed out in another way: how do you accurately compare a wine made from grapes, fermented with care, evoking terroir, to another bottle that is missing about 10-17 percent (by volume) of a key ingredient that makes wine… wine? So, they really missed the point. These aren’t wines that are lesser because they are missing something, these are an alternative for beverage seekers, who – for whatever reason – are making a choice to not consume alcohol for a lifestyle choice, moderation, responsibility, or religious, health or personal reasons - but still want a grown-up drink. These are alternative drinks that are getting closer and closer to traditional, alcoholic beverages. Also in the summer of 2023, the BBC published a story about how France is setting aside about 200 million Euros to destroy surplus wine and to convert vineyards to other (food) crops. They’ve done this before, but this time around, it comes alongside falling consumption. European Commission data for the year to June shows that wine consumption has fallen 7 percent in Italy, 10 percent in Spain, a whopping 15 percent in France, and finally 22 percent in Germany, and by over a third – 34 percent in Portugal, while wine production in the EU increased by 4 percent. It seems that in several ways – the
“wine lake” is back and bigger than ever. But this time it’s not soaring production that is causing it, but declining consumption. Finally, in England, long a bastion of trendsetting and tradition in the world of fine alcoholic beverages (and a nexus of sorts in fine mixology) is changing their definition of “wine” to include products that have less than 8.5 percent (there were some small exceptions prior) and this will happen in 2024. Previously, those lower alcohol offerings could be called a “wine-based drink” but aside from being a completely unappealing name for those beverages, their studies found that consumers weren’t too confused by these lower alcohol offerings, and the change will also allow naturally lower alcohol wines as well as alcohol reduced wines to simply be called “wine”. That’s a win. On Alberta’s shelves, we are seeing more and more of these alternative drinks, including wine, beer, spirits, ready to drinks, and so on. According to Mark Kuspira of Crush Imports and their non-alcoholic portfolio Soft Crush, the time is now with more consumers looking at “mindful drinking” and a step away from the overindulgence many enjoyed during COVID19. Even noting that “Multinationals like Tanqueray and Guinness are seeing market share for alcohol-(ic beverages) decline”. Over at Wine Alliance – another importer who has a significant portfolio of nonalcoholic products, owner Marina Beck agrees. “For the last five years, we’ve seen steady and constant growth (in nonalcoholic beverages). Having the freedom to
DRY DRINKING
Understanding what is out there in the non-alcoholic alternative beverage sector can be pretty tricky, and there can be a lot of experimentation to find drinks that resonate with you and your palate. Keep in mind that some of these products may not entirely “mimic” traditional styles or products but can be viewed as a fresh take on those styles. Some of these products may be available at your local grocer, your local liquor store, or even direct from the producer in the case of locally made products. Prices are approximate.
choose when to consume alcohol or not has become socially acceptable and common in today’s social interactions.” The world of beverages has its own share of fads and next best things, and the history of alcohol is littered with styles or products that never caught on or stayed in the limelight. The non-alcoholic products were historically among the worst, yet both Beck and Kuspira are feeling confident about the trend as quality continues to improve and producers are making significant investments into alternative categories, Kuspira sharing that “Now we have products that are (made from) real wine and distillates that happen to be de-alcoholized. These are real vinifera grapes being harvested and fermented not just left over must.” While Beck adds, “We curate delicious quality beverages with alcohol, I feel it is our responsibility to find and curate alternative beverages for (consumers) - whatever their reasoning.” Wine, and most alcoholic beverages for many years, have had the role of “social lubricant” in many get togethers, occasions, and gatherings, and a little liquid courage for those facing a little anxiety, or even a teensy bit of a grown-up beverage that can make it a little easier to fit in (or get along) with the crowd. Generally, post COVID we aren’t gathering quite the same way as we used to, and people are more likely – when they do gather, to do so with smaller groups, and yes – even with more selective groups. That lubricant isn’t quite as crucial for some. Myself? I am a shade under 50 these days, I’ve been seriously in the beverage industry since 1996, and I still love a great glass of wine or two, I have a weakness for a decent negroni, Irish whisky, and a good, locally made pale ale, but the times they are a-changing, and the time is ripe for more options – no matter the reason someone might abstain.
Ones + Sparkling Rose, British Columbia A fairly recent addition to our landscape, Ones is also using BC Wine for their nonalcoholic wines. Another good way to use local! Quite dry, and rather lightweight with a short and crisp finish. About $8 per can, $25 per bottle Wilfred’s Bittersweet Non-Alcoholic Aperitif, United Kingdom An excellent aperitif that is very well balanced and a pleasure to drink or mix with. Try it with tonic water or soda, ice, or however you wish really as it makes grown up style drinks with complexity and versatility. $44-47 Lautus De-alcoholized Chardonnay, South Africa Showing off good representation of the grape with a gentle expression of fruits and a little smidge of creaminess and weight on the palate. A year-round sipper and should prove quite flexible at the table too. About $24 Wild Life Silent Flight Raspberry Mojito, Alberta A canned and carbonated cocktail, it’s pretty damn refreshing and pretty damn enjoyable - a perfectly fine alternative to a soda on any hot day. Plenty of flavour (but not too much) it’s got 12 grams of sugar, so it isn’t too hard on the palate either. A very grown up soft drink indeed. About $13-14 Wild Folk Sparkling Negroni Non-Alcoholic Cocktail, Alberta, Canada Trying to make – let alone package a non-alcoholic negroni is a tall order for sure. But it is possible. A little more vegetal than botanical, it’s got the right idea – best if you can get it in a glass with a garnish. Around $5-6 Burwood Passion Fruit No-Jito Non-Alcoholic Cocktail, Alberta A hazy, fruit bomb with the right amount of mint, the folks at Burwood have hit this one out of the park. The passionfruit really works here and the lack of any alcohol isn’t very noticeable either. I’d pour this over crushed ice or not quite ice cold from the fridge. $16-17 Athletic Brewing Co. Upside Dawn Golden, United States Wildly available and well-priced, there are a few different styles on our shelves, but the Golden is likely my favourite (with IPA a close second). Fairly nutty, with a light finish, it’s got a nice bitterness, and it’s pretty quaffable. 6-pk $17
January/February 2024 | Culinaire 17
h t i w P U G N I GROW
S N E E R G A R HYD
Modern sustainable farming. It’s an inspirational goal and something we consumers can feel good about supporting. What does it mean to be sustainable, and how can farming be modernized? One answer to that is beyond the acres of land that stretch to the horizon. Technology has allowed for significant advancements on the conventional farm, with the key word being conventional. Limited land resources, uncertain weather patterns from climate pressures, and increased operational costs can be prohibitive to smaller-scale farmers. For Hydragreens, the answer was to look at conventional unconventionally – and go vertical. Hydragreens is the brainchild of husband-and-wife team Marc and Joy Schulz. They run a commercial-scale indoor vertical growing operation in
Springbank, just west of Calgary, with a focus on farming premium leafy greens, lettuces, herbs, and microgreens. “After selling my company in 2015, we decided to move into something different”, says Marc. The duo looked to the areas of wellness and nutrition, a significant turn from Marc’s previous work in oil and gas. “We ended up at indoor vertical farming, which fit our interest in health.” It also suits Calgary’s increasing demand for sustainable food sources where cold winters mean it can be a struggle to find fresh, locally grown produce that’s consistent and appealing. A hydroponic farm, the four acres at Hydragreens is fitted with Canadian designed Cubic Farms equipment that allows for easy scale-up to keep the business nimble while being responsive to growing needs. They have 22 growing
‘modules’, each designed as either a propagation or cultivation unit, with one unit able to grow up to 80,000 seedlings at a time. “Water, nutrients, temperature, lights, relative humidity, and CO2 are all specific to each module and altered as needed during the life cycle of the plant”, explains Marc. Seed to seedling time is usually three weeks, with another three weeks from seedling to harvest. “We’re helping change the way the world grows produce.” Hydragreens operates with a ‘clean room’ technology, and they’ve found no need for pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides. All water and air are filtered, and most of their produce is harvested live with the root ball still attached. “It’s a better tasting product with a longer shelf life.” Configuring for something like lettuce, one module can grow 5,040 ADVERTORIAL
18 Culinaire | January/February 2024
ADVERTORIAL
heads of lettuce over a 20-day cycle. The unique vertical farm configuration allows for immediate expansion capacity of up to 30%. That’s an extra 1,512 heads of lettuce in less than one month, on demand, as their customers need it. “Most grocers and restaurants are looking for a supplier that has the capacity to supply great quality produce year-round and at a changing scale. Capacity is key.” Their green offerings are intentional and focused. Hydragreens offers a trio of living lettuce heads, microgreens, fresh herbs (chives, sage, rosemary, thyme) and basil (two living basil plants), and a harvest box for those who want a little bit of everything. Harvest immediately or plant the roots in soil and harvest in perpetuity. Their facility operates 365 days a year, allowing customers access to fresh greens all through the winter. Everything in the facility meets Global GAP certification and CFIA certification. Being a locally driven company is embedded in the Hydragreens ethos. “Our farm is owned and run by Calgarians”, says Marc. “We donate excess produce to local organizations – the Mustard Seed, Calgary and Airdrie Food Banks, Calgary Zoo, Butterfield Acres, and some hobby farms.” This connection with community aligns well with Made in Alberta, as does Hydragreens’ practice of maintaining a small footprint while contributing to the needs of the local community. “We wanted to be part of the
Made in Alberta program because we’re local.” Hydragreens services Calgary and the surrounding area, and they also have customers in Edmonton. Having a localized workforce is an important part of the Hydragreens plan, which aligns well with being part of the Made in Alberta program. They’ve focused on hiring local labour and now employ six people full-time. The team builds on their product knowledge and continues to trial new crops, always looking for opportunities to expand operations to better serve their community.
With a focus on local and operations in Springfield, trucking produce anywhere in Calgary is simple and reasonable, and reduces their overall energy consumption while delivering a healthy product. They’re also green in more than what they grow: the farm uses 1,044 solar panels that generate approximately half of their energy requirements, with waste heat from the lighting and systems recovered and used to heat the building during cold weather. “Since starting production we have saved a substantial amount of C02”, says Marc. Their patented hydroponic system uses 95 percent less water than conventional growing. Marc and Joy encourage site tours with their business partners because they’re proud of their facility, and enjoy showing clients what they do. Education is a strong component in the Hydragreens philosophy, having spent considerable time learning about different farming techniques. “We’re also working on developing educational materials pertaining to vertical farming”, says Marc. Hydragreens fresh produce and herbs are available at Local Line, Co-op, Bridgeland Market, Italian Centre Shop, and can be found on dishes in restaurants throughout the Calgary area. Can’t find them on your favourite shelf or menu? Introduce your local grocers and chefs to the future of farming.
Our unique Made in Alberta label clearly identifies local food and beverages that are made right here in Alberta. By purchasing Made in Alberta products, you are supporting Alberta’s growers, farmers, producers, and processors. When we choose local, we choose our neighbours. madeinalberta.co January/February 2024 | Culinaire 19
S TE P BY S TE P
Marmalade and Whisky Bread Pudding STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
20 Culinaire | January/February 2024
T
he early months of the shiny new year can be a bit bleak, especially as the harshness of a never-ending winter sets in, along with the reality of the bank balance once the credit card bill hits. It’s easy to see why so many of us want to hide under the duvet and do nothing but eat toast and rewatch the Sopranos. In other words, comfort, in whatever way it takes shape for you, is key right now. For me, I find comfort in warm, roasty toasty things, my cats, and clever companions. And, I find comfort in the small, cozy confines of my kitchen. This is where a certain amount of magic happens throughout the year, but particularly in January and February when the budget is tight and I lean on my pantry and freezer a lot more. This is when I like to make something delicious out of almost nothing, which is where bread pudding comes in. One of my goals this year is to be more intentional about food waste and finding ways to keep it out of the garbage. Keeping tabs on what’s in the fridge and what needs to be consumed before it goes bad is key,
but also finding ways to use the last bits and bobs of things. For instance, I never use citrus just for the juice. Limes, lemons, and oranges are zested first and then squeezed. I freeze the zest for later use, in labeled freezer bags. Parmesan rinds are also little gems. I add them to stocks and broths, and often into soups just like that. They impart terrific umami to the liquid, something they could never do if they were in the garbage! And then there is bread, glorious bread. The end pieces are frozen and saved for breadcrumbs, and, on the occasion that a loaf goes stale before I can finish it, it gets turned into bread pudding. Bread pudding insists that the aforementioned bread be stale. It needs to be dry and crusty so it can soak up the eggy custard. If you don’t find bags of stale brioche, sourdough, or croissants in the deep dark depths of your freezer, then check out the supermarket shelves for reduced pricing on their day-olds. Stale bread and custard sounds a bit unappealing, I’ll give you that, but it’s what you add to this to make it amazing. Again, I looked in my refrigerator and found a
half empty jar of orange marmalade. She’s going in. As is a wee bit of brown sugar, the last of the vanilla bean paste, and the dregs of the whisky bottle, leftover from a night of celebrating, as one does when company drops in in December. Technically, this recipe is a bread AND butter pudding, as melted butter is combined with the cubes of stale bread before it gets smothered in custard, but that’s just a technicality. And, if you don’t want to splurge on whipping cream, then coffee cream or half and half will do. Don’t like marmalade? Then any sort of jam will do nicely. Again, look into your fridge and see what needs to be used up. Apricot jam, apple jelly, plum preserves would all be wonderful. No jam? Then add some maple syrup and finely diced apple instead. The whole shebang gets tossed together, and while it doesn’t look like much, once it’s baked up golden and puffy, the edges get wonderfully crispy and the centre is soft and creamy. Dusted with icing sugar, it’s a dessert worthy of family and friends, or even just you and your duvet, James Gandolfiini and crew, too.
4. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Lightly grease a baking dish. Pour the bread mixture into the baking dish, being sure to scrape all of the liquid out. Dot the top with a bit (about 1 Tbs or so) of marmalade. 5. Bake for 45-60 minutes, until the bread pudding is puffed and golden brown.
6. Serve warm or at room temperature, dusted with icing sugar. Refrigerate any leftovers for up to 2 days.
Marmalade and Whisky Bread Pudding Serves 6
10 (about 450 g) slices day-old crusty white bread or brioche, cubed ¼ cup salted butter, melted 3 large eggs 1¼ cup (310 mL) whole milk 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream ¼ cup light brown sugar, packed 1/3 cup (80 mL) Seville orange marmalade, plus more for dotting 1½ Tbs (22 mL) whisky 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla bean paste or extract Icing sugar, for serving 1. Place the cubed bread in a large bowl. Drizzle with the melted butter and toss to coat. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, cream, sugar, marmalade, whisky, and vanilla. Whisk well to combine. 3. Pour the custard over the bread cubes and toss well. Let the mixture rest for 30 minutes.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, “Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published. January/February 2024 | Culinaire 21
O F F TH E M E N U
Chef Dean Fast’s
Gluten-Free Bread STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDA GARSON
BY LINDA GARSON
W
e recently received a heartfelt request from Tom W, in Calgary, and just had to leap into action to discover the recipe for Rouge Restaurant’s gluten-free bread: “I would like to make an "OFF THE MENU" request for a future magazine edition. My wife has Celiac disease, so bread at restaurants is a "no-go" with the exception of a recent meal at Rouge. The gluten-free bread was fantastic. The warm and rich muesli-style bread was quite a delight, as was the rest of the meal. Could you please request and publish Rouge's gluten-free bread recipe? Many thanks in advance.” It turns out that this is Rouge Chef Dean Fast’s recipe that he has tinkered with, modified, and perfected. We tried the bread while it was still a little warm, and we absolutely agree with Tom – it
is fantastic - very delicious and with a terrific texture. It would be wonderful with some good unsalted or cultured butter. Thanks so much to Chef Fast for generously sharing his recipe!
Chef Dean Fast’s Gluten-Free Bread
This recipe fits well into a 9x7” (23x18 cm) loaf pan or can be divided into smaller containers for baking 500 g warm water 25 g yeast 25 g soft unsalted butter 15 g sugar 500 g Cup4Cup* flour 25 g kosher salt 20 g your favourite fresh or dried herbs
1. Combine water, yeast, butter, and sugar in a bowl. Whisk together and allow yeast to bloom. 2. Mix together flour, salt, and herbs in a bowl with a whisk to evenly distribute salt and herbs into flour. 3. Pour over water and yeast mixture and use a spatula to incorporate all ingredients to a smooth, loose batter. 4. Spray the inside of a 9x7” (23x18 cm) loaf pan and add dough. Allow the bread to rise to the edge before baking. Bake at 375º F for 15 minutes, remove bread from the pan and place back in the oven at 325º F for 5 minutes. *Cup4Cup flour was designed by a pastry chef who worked for Thomas Keller at The French Laundry, and is both glutenand dairy-free. It contains cornstarch, white rice flour, brown rice flour, tapioca flour, potato starch, and xanthan gum.
If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you! As with any home baking recipe, ovens and stove tops may vary, and dishes can be adjusted or seasoned to taste.
22 Culinaire | January/February 2024
GATHER
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Digging in to Dim Sum BY PATRICIA LAU
WHAT IS DIM SUM?
Dim sum is a collective term for a variety of small traditional Chinese dishes served with tea. The origins of dim sum, which means “touch the heart” in Chinese, can be traced back to the snacks royal chefs created during Song dynasty (960-1279) and to the teahouse culture of southern China. The Chinese tradition of drinking tea, or “yum cha” in Cantonese, took off during the tenth century along the Silk Road as travelers frequented teahouses in the southern Chinese city of Canton (now called Guangzhou) for snacks known as dim sum to complement their tea. This practice of having tea together with dim sum eventually evolved into the modern meaning of yum cha, which now refers to the Cantonese 24 Culinaire | January/February 2024
version of brunch that involves eating a variety of dim sum dishes while drinking tea.
DIFFERENT STYLES OF DIM SUM
With its roots in southern China, dim sum was originally often associated with Cantonese cuisine, but over time its popularity spread to northern China. Southern Chinese (Cantonese) dim sum still tends to be more common, but some key differences are that the flavours of northern Chinese dim sum are generally saltier, heavier, and simpler, while those of its southern counterparts are sweeter,
lighter, and more complex. For seasoning, the northern style may use more soy sauce, vinegar, or chili oil, while the southern style may use more sugar, honey, or oyster sauce. The cooking methods also differ between northern and southern Chinese dim sum. The northern style is most often steamed, fried, or baked. Some notable examples include sheng jian bao (pan-fried buns filled with pork that are crispy on the bottom and fluffy on top) and xiao long bao (steamed soup dumplings with juicy pork filling). In comparison, southern Chinese dim sum is more diverse, and
may also include boiling, stewing, or braising. Some quintessential examples include siu mai (steamed pork and shrimp dumplings), char siu bao (steamed bbq pork buns), and daan tat (flaky egg tarts). Furthermore, the ingredients also reflect the climate and geography of the region. Shao bing (baked sesame cakes) and baozi (steamed buns filled with pork, beef, or lamb) are examples of northern style dim sum, which tends to use more wheat flour, meat, and dairy products. In contrast, cheong fun (rice noodle rolls), nor mai gai (sticky rice in lotus leaf), and har gow (shrimp dumplings) are classic southern examples, which use more rice flour, seafood, and vegetables.
MODERN DIM SUM
As popularity for dim sum grew, chefs have started to create innovative ways of preparing and presenting classic dim sum dishes. You may come across dim sum that incorporates elements from other cuisines, such as Thai, Japanese, or French, or ones that contain non-traditional ingredients such as chocolate, foie gras, truffle, or caviar. As well, you may see creative and artistic presentations, such as the dim sum that are in the shape of animals or flowers. Some chefs have even taken the dim sum concept out of the traditional Chinese restaurant setting into the modern-day food hall. TeAmo Fruit Tea in Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens offers a unique Hong Kong-style handcrafted dim sum experience that complements their selection of premium teas. Inspired by the traditional teahouse culture of southern China, “I want to provide something fancier for people to enjoy with our premium tea” says chef-owner Clement Ng. Before launching his own menu of artisanal dim sum, Ng apprenticed under a 30-year dim sum expert to learn the fundamentals of traditional Hong Kongstyle dim sum. Utilizing those original recipes, Ng has been incorporating his own ideas in his contemporary dim sum. His beautifully presented deluxe dim sum box includes abalone topped with TeAmo’s signature garlic sauce, osmanthus flower and apple mochi cakes, and pineapple agar sweets. The most impressive from his dim sum repertoire is his handmade fish dumplings (in the shape of koi fish) that are served with a consommé of shiro dashi (a delicate umami-packed Japanese soup base), fish maw and Jinhua ham. If
time and you can cook it in minutes by steaming, microwaving, or frying. Due to its popularity, frozen dim sum has become widely available. You can find it in supermarkets, at restaurants that sell them for takeout, as well as at dedicated shops. Frozen dim sum may not be as authentic or fresh as the ones served at a restaurant, but they are still a convenient and delicious way for you to enjoy dim sum at home. Patricia loves to seek out delicious food experiences locally and beyond, wherever her travels take her. She has been keeping close tabs on Calgary's restaurant scene and shares her dining adventures on social media.
Places to visit for Dim Sum: you’re looking for something a little more familiar, Ng offers a steamed bun sampler flight that includes five different kinds of buns prepared in different ways and with different fillings.
DIM SUM CARTS
For the past half-century, pushcarts have been an integral part of the iconic dim sum experience. Pushcart dim sum involves heated metal carts that are loaded with stacks of bamboo steamer baskets and plates of dim sum items that have been cooked in advance. These carts are then pushed around the dining area so you can see and smell the food before you order it. This is a fun and interactive way to enjoy dim sum since you can try a variety of dishes as they come by. Sadly, this is mostly turning into nostalgia as pushcart dim sum is on the decline. Most restaurants now have switched to ordering sheets to reduce labour costs, food waste and to ensure freshness and quality of the food. Most customers also tend to prefer ordering sheets as they are guaranteed to get what they want, and the food is freshly cooked to order.
FROZEN DIM SUM
Dim sum’s popularity has now extended beyond the traditional teahouses, restaurants, and food halls. With the modern invention of frozen dim sum, you can nowadays enjoy it almost anywhere and at any time of the day, not just for brunch. As the name implies, frozen dim sum has been prepared in advance and frozen for later consumption. You can store it in the freezer for a long
Dim Sum Carts: Central Grand, 295 - 1623 Centre Street N, Calgary Jumbo Dim Sum, 10451 170 Street NW, Edmonton Silver Dragon Restaurant, 106 3 Avenue SE, Calgary Southern Chinese/Cantonese Dim Sum: Beijing Dim Sum & Seafood Restaurant, 700 - 3803 Calgary Trail NW, Edmonton Chef Tony Dim Sum and Chinese Cuisine, 14921 Stony Plain Road, Edmonton Chinese Cultural Centre Cuisine, 197 1 Street SW, Calgary Golden Rice Bowl, 5365 Gateway Boulevard NW, Edmonton Golden Sands Chinese Restaurant, 5010 Centre St N, Calgary T.POT China Bistro, 9650 Harvest Hills Boulevard N, Calgary Northern Chinese Dim Sum Great Taste Chinese Restaurant, 123 2 Avenue SE, Calgary Shanghai 456, 14456 118 Avenue NW, Edmonton Food Hall Dim Sum: TeAmo Dim Sum and Fruit Tea, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE, Calgary Frozen Dim Sum: Delta Food Products, 10557 114 Street NW, Edmonton Chuen May Food Products Dim Sum, 221 1 Street SE, Calgary Sum Kee One Dim Sum, 1601 Centre Street N, Calgary Top Gun Kitchen, 7 - 3927 Edmonton Trail, Calgary January/February 2024 | Culinaire 25
Ease in the New Year STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
of year when we could use some extra TLC. Barely a recipe is needed, and most meals take less than 30 minutes to cook. Fundamentals: 1. Sheet pan with sides. 2. Parchment paper for easier clean up. 3. Mix of vegetables. 4. Quick cooking protein of choice. 5. Spices and herbs for flavour enhancements. This is not the time to be stressing about perfection. The main consideration is to neither overcook or undercook your meal. Toss in whatever vegetables you enjoy in whatever quantities that you want. Choose quality proteins and fats to bring the meal together for a satiating and easy dinner. These recipes below are just a few examples of what is possible.
Sausage and Cannellini Beans Serves 2
H
ow did your holiday season go? Did you manage to get all the presents wrapped and under the tree? Were the cards mailed out so they would be received on time? Did you have house warming gifts ready? Extra festive treats for last minute guests? Did you trim the tree, decorate the house, make all the meals, put up the lights? Clean up, take down all the decorations, have enough energy to stay up for the midnight ball drop to ring in 2024? Whew! December is a lot. And no matter how minimalist you make the holiday
26 Culinaire | January/February 2024
1 head broccolini 1 sweet pepper 1 can cannellini beans ½ tsp dried rosemary ¾ tsp sea salt 2 - 4 spicy Italian sausages (or flavoured as desired) ½ lemon, cut in wedges Drizzle olive oil ¼ bunch parsley, rough chop
season, there is still much to do and many people to see. And then comes January. The month of resolutions. Both to make and to break. We’ve eaten a lot throughout December, and we could use a break in January. Not from eating! From the hoopla around eating. Give yourself a respite and let the new year ring in with ease. It’s time for sheet pan cooking. Sheet pan cooking couldn’t be simpler, and yet still warming and comforting at the time
1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Line sheet pan with parchment paper. 2. Trim broccolini and remove stem and seeds from the sweet pepper and chop into strips. 3. Drain and rinse cannellini beans and add to the sheet pan. Add the sweet pepper and broccolini. Sprinkle with rosemary and sea salt. 4. Add the sausages and lemon and drizzle everything with olive oil. 5. Roast for 18 to 23 minutes. Remove sheet pan from oven and sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Pork Chops with Apples and Cabbage Serves 2
4 wedges cabbage 2 small apples, cored 4 sprigs thyme 2 pork chops To Taste sea salt, pepper ½ tsp garlic powder ½ tsp paprika Drizzle olive oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) mustard, grainy or smooth 1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Line sheet pan with parchment paper. 2. Cut cabbage and apples into wedges and place on baking sheet. 3. Remove the thyme leaves from the sprigs and sprinkle over the cabbage and apples along with sea salt and pepper if desired. 4. Season the pork chops with sea salt, pepper, garlic powder and paprika. 5. Place on baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Bake 18 to 23 minutes (depending on thickness of pork chop). Serve with mustard.
Lamb Chops and Potatoes
LE RIME
The aromas of tropical fruits perfectly combine with fresh and floral hints. Vibrant acidity with a long and persistent finish.
Scan the QR code to explore a better wine world.
@banfiofficial
Serves 2
10 fingerling potatoes 10 mushrooms 1 red onion 6 lamb chops Handful green beans, trimmed To Taste sea salt and pepper Drizzle olive oil 10 sprigs fresh mint, finely chopped 1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Line sheet pan with parchment paper. 2. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and place on the sheet pan with a drizzle of oil and salt, and toss in the oven. The potatoes need a head start compared to the other items. Roast 20 minutes. 3. Cut the mushrooms in half. Cut the red onion into wedges. Season the lamb chops with sea salt and pepper. 4. Remove sheet pan from oven. Carefully add the mushrooms, red onion, lamb chops, and green beans to the pan. Drizzle with olive oil and sea salt. 5. Place sheet pan back in oven and cook another 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from oven, top with mint and serve.
COL DI SASSO
The nose is complex and characterized by hints of ripe fruit, cherries and a slight peppery note.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
S PA I N ’ S F WINE RE
SPAIN'S FINEST WINE REGION
History runs deeper than even its roots in Spain’s Rioja wine region. Premium winemaking goes back to the Roman Empire, and even then it stood out among Europe’s finest vineyard regions. Rioja (pronounced REE–oh–ha) is in Northern Spain, along the Ebro River and flanked by the majestic Cantabrian and Demanda Mountains. This is where, for over 2,000 years experts (and wine drinkers) have recognised how this land and climate are ideal for producing exceptional wines. Covering more than 66,000 hectares, the towns and vineyards have developed their own personalities and approaches, making Rioja a unique region. Wine production is a driving force and an inseparable mark of its identity, apparent in both its extensive historical heritage as well as its pioneering nature in educating the palates of generations of wine lovers, and the way it has found success in international markets. Divided into three main areas, Rioja
Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental, they encompass 144 municipalities, around 800 wineries, and a diverse range of almost 20,000 growers. This is terroir defined. The region’s primary grape – a red grape – is Tempranillo, ideally suited to the hot, dry summer days and scorching sunshine during the growing season. Although grown in other parts of the world, this classic grape, which accounts for 80 percent of vineyards, is synonymous with Rioja. Highly versatile, Tempranillo can produce very balanced wines with a great ageing potential, yet it is also capable of blending with other grapes to produce wines greater than the sum of their parts. 13 other grapes are permitted in the region, including classic red varieties of Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo, and Red Maturana. For white grapes, Viura accounts for 70 percent of Rioja’s white plantings, and is known for floral, fruity wines, with notable acidity - perfect for both youthful
28 Culinaire | January/February 2024
ADVERTORIAL
wines and wines destined for the cellar. We also see white versions of Garnacha and Tempranillo, White Maturana, Turruntés, and Verdejo, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Strict regulations govern the production, quality control and labelling practices to ensure that the reputation of Rioja wines is protected, but also that the consumer is getting the very best quality, authentic wine that they are looking for. The Guarantee of the Rioja Denominación de Origen Calificada (Denomination of Qualified Origin) shows on every bottle of Rioja wine. It ensures the exclusive dedication to the wines and compulsory bottling being carried out in the area for the marketing of its entire production. Since 2000, this guarantee has included a D.O.Ca. holographic trust seal on the bottle proving that the wine within has been produced according to the strict standards of quality, aging, and origin. Esteemed wine journalist, James Suckling’s Top 100 Wines of Spain 2023 identified many of Spain’s greatest wines as coming from Rioja. Further calling Rioja an “Absolute Triumph”, with 4 wines from the DOCa making the Top 5. Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2012 was also the “Spanish Wine of the Year” earning an incredible 100 points.
Other wines in the Top 5 include: Contino Rioja Viña del Olivo 2020 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 2010 YJAR Rioja 2019 Rioja is also established as one of the best wine tourism destinations in the world in the World's Best Vineyards 2023. Specifically, four Rioja wineries make up the list of the World’s 100 Best this year, with two from Rioja appearing in the Top 50. Herederos del Marqués de Riscal once again was the only Spanish winery to make the TOP 3 podium, and the winery also received the special recognition of “Best Vineyard in Europe”, awarded by the jury for its “impressive futuristic architecture and its extraordinary surroundings”. It’s one thing to make wine that’s considered the best in the world - it’s entirely another thing to make wine that’s considered the best for the world. In Rioja, our commitment to quality is rivaled only by our commitment to sustainability. We understand that a thriving environment is necessary for our work, which is why we work so hard to respect and protect it.
quality of the product. With many certified organic wines already in production and an increasing focus on sustainability and innovation, the future of the Rioja wine region is as strong as it is delicious. For more information and understanding of Rioja’s wines, the “Rioja Enthusiast" introductory course builds a solid foundation to read a wine label, distinguish between grape varieties and wine styles, and choose the best pairing in a restaurant. For devotees of great, authentic wine, the four-hour online course is absolutely free with no time limit, and comes with official certification from the Rioja Control Board. Visit riojawineacademy.com for details. The Rioja Consejo diligently protects and maintains the highest standards for wines from Rioja. Ensuring that the origin, production, aging, and marketing of its wines are a guarantee of quality for wine lovers around the globe.
Our traditional practices are in complete balance with the needs of the land. By limiting treatments in the vineyards, investing in clean energy, and reusing water, corks, and bottles, we have created a manufacturing ecosystem that puts the environment first without sacrificing the
January/February 2024 | Culinaire 29
Take a Journey on Alberta’s Ale Trails BY DAVID NUTTALL
I
f you are a beer lover and are looking for travel, exploration, and adventure this year, then the Alberta Small Brewers Association and partners have something for you. Last spring, they created Alberta Ale Trails, a collection of “curated itineraries” that lead visitors through selected parts of the province, showcasing breweries along the way. The trails have been divided up into six regions, with Calgary, Edmonton, The Rockies, and Central, Northern, and Southern Alberta represented. Four of the regions have multiple trails within, making 15 trails total. Each trail defines an area, with the breweries as the featured landmarks. While the trail maps give pertinent info for each location (address, phone number, website, descriptors, etc), they also include select restaurants, drinking establishments, places of interest, parks, beaches, places to stay and more. Visitors can follow the one-to-five-day itineraries laid out on the maps, which is extremely
30 Culinaire | January/February 2024
beneficial for people unfamiliar with a region, as the trails are much more than just a guidebook to the breweries. Of course, one can also simply cherry-pick the breweries or sites they want to visit instead. Here is a quick list of the current regions and Ale Trails as of December 2023. Calgary Not surprisingly, the city with the most breweries has the most trails. With 55 breweries in the city and surrounding area, it would take several days to visit them all. Three of the trails cover breweries located in what could be called older Calgary. The Brewery Flats Ale Trail concentrates on Inglewood/Ramsey, the Manchester Ale Trail highlights the industrial area southeast of downtown (colloquially called the Barley Belt), and the Central Calgary Ale Trail covers those breweries that are close to Crowchild Trail, MacLeod Trail, or downtown. The fourth trail, the Foothills Ale
Trail, includes the breweries of south Calgary and also ventures out to the towns west, south, and east of the city including Vulcan, High River, Okotoks, Diamond Valley, Chestermere, Cochrane and others. The North Calgary Ale Trail includes most of the area north of the Bow River up to and including Airdrie, which also has its own ale trail on the City of Airdrie website (airdrie.ca) Edmonton There are 29 breweries in and around Alberta’s capital city, and there are four trails to follow here. Happy Beer Street Ale Trail runs mostly along 99th Street and heads west down Whyte Avenue. The Hop Pocket Ale Trail is one of the newer trails, launched in June 2023, and includes downtown and the northeast quadrant. The Southeast Edmonton Ale Trail takes you out of the city into the towns of Leduc, Nisku, and Beaumont to the south, and Sherwood Park to the east. The West Edmonton Ale Trail takes
breweries in the cities of Medicine Hat and Lethbridge as well as the towns of the Crowsnest Pass, Lundbreck, and Fort MacLeod. Many of these locations were some of the first craft breweries in Alberta and they were one of the first to establish an ale trail to promote brewery tourism along this route.
one through the western edge of the city and continues on to Spruce Grove. It also includes those places northwest of Edmonton such as St. Albert and Morinville. Central Alberta This region is home of much of Alberta’s grain production, especially barley and wheat. It also has several malt houses and most of the province’s hop farms, making this area a true field to glass brewery experience. The two ale trails here cover 24 different breweries, the most outside of the two major cities. Naturally, the zones covered are larger areas than the cities, so more travelling is involved. The Central Prairies Ale Trail ranges from the Camrose/Wetaskiwin/ Pigeon Lake region in the north down Highway 2 to Ponoka and Lacombe, then west to Rocky Mountain House, and south to Olds and Didsbury. It specifically excludes Red Deer and area, because that is part of the other trail located in this region; the Red Deer County Ale Trail which also covers Sylvan Lake, Innisfail, and Bowden. Northern Alberta This is by far the largest region, covering more than half of Alberta’s area. Representing 11 breweries, this region actually starts a bit southeast of Edmonton in Wainwright. From there, the Lakelands Ale Trail heads north to Lloydminster, then northwest to
The Rockies The region begins at the Canada-US border and follows the Rocky Mountains to the northern edge of Jasper National Park. The nine breweries of this region are located on the Canadian Rockies Ale Trail which begins at Canmore, goes into the park to Banff, north to Jasper and then east to Hinton. As home to some of Canada’s most famous tourist attractions, this area certainly gets the most international tourists. Cold Lake, St Paul, Lac la Biche, and Slave Lake; all small towns with great breweries. The Northwest Ale Trail takes you to the breweries of the Peace Region, from Whitecourt to Grande Prairie, then to Fairview and Peace River, passing through forests and wetlands. Southern Alberta There are also 11 breweries in this region too, most of which are highlighted on The Highway 3 Ale Trail, that runs along its namesake highway from the BC border almost to Saskatchewan. Along this route visitors can find
Certainly there will be more trails planned, and additions to existing ones. If you would like much more information, The Alberta Ale Trails website is albertaaletrail.ca. You can also sign up for their newsletter to receive updates or download the app. Now get out there and explore some of Alberta’s finest breweries in 2024.
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
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chocolate chocolate together together
Traditional Ukrainian Comforts BY ERIKA RAVNSBORG
Hung Uke Ukrainian Kitchen: The motivation for Red Deer’s Hung Uke is to both serve the community and bring an experience like no other to their customers. These people want to celebrate cultural diversity with dishes such as poutine perogies. A unique twist on a Canadian classic, the hearty perogies are smothered with an oozy gravy and creamy cheese curds. 90 Thorburn Ave #3110, Red Deer hunguke.com Courtesy Heritage Bakery & Deli
T
o many of us, January marks a new year. It is full of new beginnings and the closing of an old chapter to start a new one. In the Ukraine, they live and celebrate by a different agenda called the “Julian Calendar.” While many of us are celebrating a new year, the Ukrainians have traditionally celebrated their Christmas on January 7th. That was until they made the move to December 25 last year – chiefly to separate this holiday from the Russian Orthodox Church’s calendar. Traditions do take time to change, and no doubt many may still celebrate in January. Just like any celebration, this Christmas has a feast to enjoy (usually after a fasting period). But this dinner doesn’t start until the first star appears in the sky. As soon as it does, people have a dinner composed of twelve dishes to symbolize the twelve apostles. This meal usually includes kutia (a sweet porridge made of wheat), mushrooms, sauerkraut, red borscht (beet soup), perogies, cabbage rolls (usually made without the meat), pyrizhky (cabbage buns), whitefish, and kolach (a special bread). With a strong Ukrainian history and influence across the province, Ukrainian food is comfort food to many. So, if you 32 Culinaire | January/February 2024
are looking for a good place to enjoy a Sviata Vecheria (Holy Supper) or just need some supplies for your own table, look no further than these local gems. Baba's Bistro & Coffee House: Cute and charming, this little family-owned café is a perfect spot for breakfast and lunch. You can get a mouth-watering meal to go or stay a while and enjoy their praise-worthy perogies and cinnamon buns. Warm, welcoming, and inviting, with good old home made cooking, there’s a selection of quality arts and crafts too. 5215 50 St, Mundare facebook.com/p/Babas-Bistro Heritage Bakery & Deli: In Calgary’s SW, there is a quaint little spot where the perogies are plentiful and they boast the best borscht a person can get - a combination of both sweet and tangy just the way a good borscht should be. The earthy flavours shine in this soup but it is the sweet and sour you will remember savouring the most. Stay and have one of their Hot Lunch Combos or take home some baked goods. 1912 37 Street SW, Calgary heritagebakeryanddeli.ca
Pilav Central
Pilav Central and My Beyond Meal: Although their focus is on European dishes, their speciality, pilav, has an amazing story attached to it - be sure to ask the owners about the legend. One taste of this particular pilav will put a little pep in your step and be the talk of your table. The tenderness of the beef and lamb showcase the fluffiness of the rice. It is finished off with the aromatic flavours of the carrots, chickpeas, and spices. 8330 Macleod Trail SE, Calgary pilavcentral.com
chicken Kyiv - breaded chicken that is flavoured with herb butter and a wild mushroom sauce on top. 516 St Albert Trail, St. Albert tasteofukraine.com
Courtesy Stawnichy's Mundare Sausage
Saskitoba: In this small hamlet, hidden gems are serving up some fantastic feasts. Saskitoba is such a place with their Ukrainian buffet that they showcase for lunch and dinner. A list of assorted dishes are all up for grabs, including desserts. Lots of options and good for anyone with kids. In case you don’t know what you want you can never go wrong with the perogies, cabbage rolls, and pickles. But for a real adventure, you want to go for their nalysnyky, a special kind of crepe made with mild but soft cottage cheese and tangy dill. 1501 8 St #1, Nisku, facebook.com/saskitoba Stawnichy’s Mundare Sausage: Craving genuine Ukrainian sausage? Why not go to the source? Now with
Vine & Dine at Vero Bistro January 16, 24, and 28 Vero Bistro is one of our all-time popular Vine & Dine destinations, and we’re coming back to feast on Chef Jenny’s outstanding cuisine and her carefully created dishes. One-off Vine & Dine at The Artist Lounge January 19 All our evenings at The Artist Lounge sold out, so we’re offering another opportunity to wander the gallery and enjoy 6 pairing courses of super delicious small plates.
gluten-free options and cheese varieties, Stawnichy’s has products in many grocers and restaurants all over the province. Since 1959, this company has been actively supporting local farmers, charities, and communities and their famous sausage rings are incredibly popular in the community known for their combination of smoky garlic flavours and sharp cheesy taste. 5212 50 Street, Mundare, stawnichys.com Taste of Ukraine: Ukrainian hospitality often revolves around food, and this lively, richly decorated restaurant is bringing their love for food and people together. This family-run business is authentic in everything they do. Their signature dish is the rich and decadent Romantic Italy at Bonterra Trattoria February 7 We’re back again for Romantic Italy at Bonterra. This premium pairing dinner sells out very fast every year because the food and service at Bonterra are always so good! Vine & Dine at La Brezza February 11, 22, and 28 We’re coming to La Brezza Ristorante for three Vine & Dine evenings - they’re one of Calgary’s longtime favourite Italian restaurants, and we’re long overdue! Vine & Dine at Queens March 7, 14, and 21 Always super popular, it’s our fourth year at Queens, and they’re opening specially for us in March for three
Yo Baba Ukrainian Foods: For a place with all kinds of handmade goodies - just like a good mama’s cooking, look to Edmonton’s Yo Baba. Their famous baked pyrishky, a form of cheese bun that has a mixture of herbs, spices, cottage cheese, and potatoes, are light, tender, and will have you hooked like a fish to a worm. For over 50 years this place has been a part of the Edmonton scene. 8103 127 Ave NW #9, Edmonton yobabafoods.com Nothing quite makes a cold Alberta winter bearable than rich and flavourable food, and Ukrainian cuisine fits the bill with a long history in making Alberta what it is. Their country’s conflict still needs to be on our minds and their community still needs our support. So, this January, snuggle up with a bowl of borscht and stay warm. Erika Ravnsborg is an Alberta freelance writer/ blogger/adventurer/explorer. Her blog, “This Magical World”, (magicalstoriestoshare.com) features her enchanted tales of travel, food, shopping, and culture.
evenings of always superb menus for our 6-course pairing dinners. Luxury Wine & Culinary Tour of Northeast Spain, May 27–June 5, 2024 Our Wine & Culinary Tour to Northeast Spain last year sold out in 12 hours so we’re repeating this fabulous, all-inclusive experience in Spring. This tour sold out too, but two places have now become available. Ask for details! New events are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca as they can sell out quickly. Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and/or be included in our bi-monthly updates so you hear about events before the rest of the city. We try to cater for allergies.
MAKING THE CASE
For Being Good Neighbours L By TOM FIRTH
ate in November, a neighbour dropped off some farm fresh eggs to me as a thank you for a little help at their home. It wasn’t necessary, but it did remind me about being a good neighbour, the ebb and flow of friendships (and of neighbours), supporting one another when we can, and trying to be there when needed. The same goes for local businesses, and our dollars. British Columbia is for most of us, not that close, but they are our local, neighbourhood wine region and – to boot – they make some darn good wines. After a few rough years, they can use a little support, and while these wines should all be able to be found in Alberta, it never hurts to also contact the winery, sign up for their clubs or lists, and keep abreast of what our neighbours are up to. Cheers! Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate. Crowsnest Vineyards 2022 Stahltank Chardonnay, Similkameen Valley British Columbia
Another fun chardonnay for the books and one with no oak for the anti butter bomb crowd too. A touch closed at first, but with a little air or agitation, it opens up nicely letting fresher, tropical style fruits, a balanced acidity and a great finish all shine through. A fine match for freshwater fish, or grilled or roasted poultry too. Happy to see more wines from the Similkameen here in Alberta too! CSPC 868557 $19-22 Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
34 Culinaire | January/February 2024
Crowsnest Vineyards 2019 Riesling Similkameen Valley, British Columbia
Riesling is a wonderful, year round grape that I believe really shines on the cold days and on the hot days. From the Similkameen, the Crowsnest riesling was new to me, but I really enjoyed the flinty mineral tones and lean citrus fruits. Not too acidic and quite dry, it’s an easy and fun glass to enjoy. CSPC 868558 $25-28
Evolve NV Pink Effervescence Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
The epitome of a super summer sipper, this bubbly from BC’s Evolve Cellars is pretty darn good. Mostly chardonnay with pinot blanc along with 2 percent syrah, its flavours are more akin to white wines with peach and apples with only a smattering of red berries and perfume notes. Easy to enjoy, it would be terrific with lighter snacks and salty dishes. CSPC 793878 $28-30
Little Engine 2020 Gold Pinot Noir Naramata Bench, British Columbia
A new wine for me, and quite the pleasant experience too. Some excellent winemaking seems to be underway at Little Engine, and I highly recommend their gold pinot noir. Rich, almost unctuous on the nose with great berry and jelly fruits, and it really shines in the mouth with silky textures, and wildly intense fruit, but it’s the balance that really ties it together. A fine, and local bottle to enjoy over the holidays if you can. CSPC 873027 $70-74
50th Parallel 2021 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Solvero 2022 Happy Valley Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Evolve 2020 Memento, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Road 13 2021 Viognier, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Noble Ridge 2022 Stony Knoll Chardonnay, Okanagan Falls, British Columbia
Upper Bench 2021 Chardonnay Naramata Bench, British Columbia
A clean and fresh, almost summery chardonnay with apricot and peach fruits, but also packed with white blossoms and a touch of honey on the nose. Fresh and light, but also completely fruit dominant on the palate with a vibrant layer of spice underneath all that fruit. A bit of a seriously good, smashable bottle, this is an easy friend to have at the dinner table too. CSPC 769514 $30-35
Maybe it’s just me, but chardonnay is having a bit of a moment, gone are the days of heavy oak or zero oak, but these days we see so many with a fine balance, letting the fruit show through, but also a little bit of leesy characters and yes, some barrel. Finely crafted with a bit of breadiness, a little bit of creamy/butteriness but at the same time bright fruits, wonderful spice, and tasty from start to finish. CSPC 858597 $33-35
Liquidity 2020 Merlot, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Sandhill 2020 Merlot, Okanagan Valley British Columbia
Being a long-time fan of a number of bottles from 50th Parallel, it was a treat to revisit their riesling again. Quite tropical with lemons and limes, but also peach and nectarine fruits with an abundance of mineral characters and a little pinch of sweetness to balance tart acids. Serve chilled - but not cold - if possible. CSPC 873613 $25-27
Wildly, wonderfully floral and over the top intense as viognier should really be. Rife with stone fruits, a tropical spectrum of aromas, and on the palate all that and so much more with a silken texture and as intense as one would love to have their viognier. A little oak comes through across the mid palate, but this would be a fine pairing with fuller, white friendly dishes or even spicier ones. CSPC 754140 about $34-37
Solvero 2022 Garnet Valley Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
It’s a lesser-known fact in wine that to really get the best rosé, you have to start making it in the vineyard not the winery, and then you also need some skilled hands to make the wine just right, and winemaker Alison Moyes has got that figured out. A rosé from pinot noir grapes, look for juicy, raspberry-driven berry fruits, candied orange, a tight and zesty palate, and a long, clean finish in this very dry wine. Delicious from start to finish. CSPC 893829 $32-35
Pinot gris is usually easy to enjoy and a pleasure to drink, so why do we keep thinking it’s a simple or boring wine? Bursting with stone fruits, pear, and a brightly fresh and clean floral layer, this is a rather intense – but delicious pinot gris. Perfectly enjoyable on its own, it’s versatile with the menu too for seafood, shellfish, or creamy sauces. CSPC 893828 $32-35
Another brilliant merlot from the Okanagan! Rather tight and herbaceous on the nose with dark plums and a leafy, capsicum layer to go with some delicate floral tones. In the mouth, deep and rather tannic to start with a good progression as those tannins ease and let some of those polished fruits come to the fore. A lovely bottle for fans of great merlot, it can age a little, but if enjoying soon, a solid match with those protein rich, beefy dishes we love so much. CSPC 872773 $30-34
A juicy little number, that is remarkably easy going and a nice counterpoint to their “Pink Effervescence,” this red is all about plummy merlot and spicy cabernet franc. Plenty of cocoa and vanilla bean show up on the nose, while on the palate it’s still pretty juicy with a smooth tannin structure and a nice weight. A fine match with burgers, but also rich, cheesy dishes or stews. CSPC 872027 $30-35
Sandhill is still one of the few wineries that when it can, lists the grape growers. A fine testament to their commitment to terroir, but also the people who help make the wine possible – at all levels. Ripe and plummy with mild jammy notes, a bit of savoury spice and violets on the nose, with similar flavours supported by rather sultry smooth tannins. Great value too, this bottle would be a good one for any gathering big or small, but also a night when BBQ is in order. CSPC 576751 $25-28 January/February 2024 | Culinaire 35
Winter Spirits: Brown Spirits N ow that we are firmly in the embrace of the winter months, we are likely seeing an accumulation of the white stuff, but that doesn’t mean we can’t get out and enjoy the fresh, bracing air – howling along the streets as ice crystals glow under the streetlamps… But we do get used to the colder
weather, and it’s only four or five months away from spring isn’t it? We had our hearts set on brown spirits this month, whiskies and a rum with some wonderful old cognac too. There aren’t many better ways to beat the chill than sitting by the fire enjoying a warming dram or two.
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON Mountain Pass Distiller’s Select Canadian Whisky, Alberta, Canada There’s something exciting about opening a bottle that has “Batch 01” on the label, and this new small-batch, Mountain Pass Distiller’s Select by the Fort Distillery in Fort Saskatchewan, justifies it. The mash bill is 2-row malt, Kananaskis malt, chocolate malt, and 30 percent corn, and the smooth chocolate bar and berry flavours come through strong – a premium Black Forest Cake of a whisky! Just 1,014 bottles, so don’t snooze! $70 from the distillery and select farmers' markets. Romero Distilling Sherry Cask Finish Cask Strength Rum, Alberta, Canada A Best in Class winner at the 2023 Alberta Beverage Awards, this limited edition rum is worth getting one’s hands on if you are a rum fancier. Bold and smoky with all those toffee, smoky and tobacco leaf flavours, but with that 57 percent ABV, it’s a fine sipping rum enjoyed neat – letting some of those sherry cask notes shine through. In a cocktail, it’s got the flavour for a complex drink and that extra heat will make sure it stands out. CSPC 894444 $90-95 Seven Seals Port Wood Single Malt Whisky, Switzerland Here’s something wildly different to anything else on the market for you – whisky from Switzerland…. Swissky! Seven Seals is a single malt whisky finished in Switzerland, and produced by the Stockhausen method. It’s super smooth, round, and rich on the nose, and with 20 percent smoked port wood it’s just a tad smoky, and sweet - with gingerbread-y, dried fruit flavours up front. Absolutely delicious. CSPC 861669 $98-104 36 Culinaire | January/February 2024
Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye Whisky, Alberta, Canada The fifth release of the Limited Edition Albert Premium Cask Strength Rye has a powerful presence with complex, sweet, spicy, and fruity aromas positively leaping out of the glass. Distilled from 100 percent Canadian prairie rye and aged for at least five years, at 64.2 percent ABV, if you’re sipping it neat you’ll likely want a few drops of water to bring out the more subtle toasty notes. Would make one helluva Old Fashioned. CSPC 895953 $80-90 Ardbeg BizarreBQ, Islay, Scotland My goodness, the irreverent Ardbeg have done it again. Even if you’re not a lover of peaty Scotch, if you’re a BBQ-loving Albertan (like you BBQ prawns outside in winter!) you’ll want this – think bonfire smoke, treacle toffee, sweet and tangy BBQ sauce... BizarreBQ is an exclusive release that only members of the “Committee” can purchase, but if you like your whisky weird you can join the other weirdos at ardbeg.com/en-int/committee.html CSPC 887789 $149-160 Hennessy X.O. “Kim Jones” Edition Cognac, France This very limited edition of Hennessy’s great extra old cognac is a collaboration with designer Kim Jones featuring an aluminum bottle sleeve that conceals, accentuates, and also glams up the iconic bottle shape. For those who think the liquid inside is the most important, not to worry, this is the epitome of sipping spirit with toffee and plum, spice, and the rich texture cognac does so well that lingers all night long. Beautiful. CSPC 880865 $319-330
e tce te r a . . . Farm Girl Cereals
Though billed as gluten-free, sugar-free, ketofriendly, soy-free, preservative-free (and more!) as breakfast cereals for kids, we’d be willing to bet that it’s the adults who are really going to take a shine to them - perhaps those who might be looking to avoid sugar or gluten. We tried the “Honey Os”, “Chocolate Puffs”, “Cinnamon Crisps” and “Rainbow Hoops” which were all really, really good alternatives to common and much-loved big brand cereals. These might also be great in trail mix or the snack box too! Around $11, farmgirlcereal.com The Secret of Cooking Green & Black’s Organic Smooth
“Organic Smooth” is a new range of ethically and sustainably sourced, sun-dried cocoa bean dark chocolate from England’s Green & Black’s, now available in two flavours, Plain 50% Cocoa and Mint 50% Cocoa. Some find dark chocolate too bitter, so in 2021 Green & Black’s introduced an intensity scale from 1-10 based on degrees of cocoa, sweetness, and flavour intensity, and “Smooth” sits at 50% for people who have historically found dark chocolate to be too intense. Be warned, they’re both smooth and delicious! 90 g $4-6.
Bee Wilson’s The Secret of Cooking is very much the sort of book that revitalizes one’s interest or happiness in the kitchen, with a number of tasty recipes throughout that inspire and have one thinking about dinner, but it’s also a great read covering all those little secrets – those poorly concealed or easily forgotten ones that we can all use a little reminder about, and also some of the greater secrets that help make food great. Very well written, engaging, and a fine read to share with the gourmand in your circle. $54 Norton.
HelloAmino Protein Banana Bread Mix
Calgary’s Aelie & Mclain have spent years in food and fitness as chefs and coaches, and are passionate about both. They created HelloAmino to help women get the protein they need with a range of gluten-free, high protein baking and drinks mixes. We can vouch for their Banana Bread mix – it’s moist and flavourful, and packed with protein. Just add eggs, milk, butter, bananas, and vanilla extract, and bake for 50 minutes. The loaves can be frozen, but we strongly suspect they’ll be gone before you get chance! $20, helloamino.com Zwilling Fresh & Save CUBE
An extension to Zwilling’s existing Fresh & Save products, CUBE is a versatile range of stylish, modular, stackable containers in nine sizes designed to maximise space in your kitchen and preserve the flavours, textures, and nutrients of your favourite pantry items. The transparent, multi-purpose containers are dishwasher-safe and come with interchangeable sleeves in a choice of six colours with built-in level indicators and airtight lids to help protect light-sensitive foods from sunlight. A great addition to the kitchen! Prices vary, zwilling.com
Always Hungry!
Part of an emerging trend in cookbooks that celebrate food, but eschew the dainty, complex or overwrought, bringing instead rich, flavourful, and filling dishes from a wide range of cuisines and styles. Always Hungry! by chef Laurent Dagenais, is packed with incredible looking dishes that look just as suitable at home as at your local, or mom and pop restaurant. $40 Robert Rose. January/February 2024 | Culinaire 37
O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
...with
Julia Le
BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
“THERE'S A JOKE AMONGST immigrant children that you’ve got four choices. You're either an engineer, a doctor, a lawyer, or an accountant. I was none of the above,” says Julia Le. Her parents immigrated from Vietnam, and she was born and raised in Calgary until moving to Edmonton for school. “I have a Bachelor of Science in chemistry and biology, so I didn't stray too far from the expectation,” she laughs. “In 2019, I was the first Le in my family to graduate from university, and it was a really big deal for us.” Distilling is not where Le thought she would end up though - or even begin at all. When she was young, the plan was an ice cream truck with her cousins, or racing cars – or a garbage man. “My parents were dreaming for a doctor, and I wanted to be a garbage man.” She played bass, and before going into science had wanted to be a musician, auditioning to apply to schools. “I ended up getting carpal tunnel and tendonitis in my playing hand, so at the ripe old age of 16 my dreams were crushed,” she says. Unsure about science, Le attributes her success to her wonderful lab prof, Nina. “I'm a hands-on person; I can build things and fix things. I can even determine if it's right or wrong based on smell, and Nina said ‘You should go into chemistry. You have a knack for it and you're fast.’ She pushed me really hard. She coached me, and I am where I am today because she decided I was good. And she doesn't drink, so I can't thank her in any way,” she adds. After graduating, Le went with her family to Vietnam, while applying for oil patch lab and sales jobs, and interviewed for them while overseas. Seeing an Instagram posting for the Fort Distillery, she decided to apply. “I was on a bus 38 Culinaire | January/February 2024
going up a mountain in rural Vietnam editing my resume on my phone, and trying to figure out if my cover letter was right for the job. Oil field sales and assistant distiller is not the same ballpark.” She returned home with two job offers: “A mom-and-pop shop job, which was only a bit more than minimum wage, working 10-12 hour days in Fort Saskatchewan grinding grain and hauling things… and an oil field sales job for a big company with triple the money, a truck, and benefits. I didn't think that would be the hardest decision of my life,” says Le. “I took the job at the Fort Distillery and haven't looked back.” Then, the distillery was just her and Nathan Flim, her boss. Five years later, she oversees sales across Alberta, to five US states and an airline, and all production. “I have five full-time employees and tons of part-time staff. I could never have ever imagined this growth - these wonderful people make my life so much easier, and I have a wonderful boss. One big thing I'm pushing right now though is representation in the industry. I
shouldn't be anyone's role model. I don't need to be the reason you do something, but I want to be the reason you succeed at it.” What bottle is Le saving for a special occasion? “When we started, we couldn't afford to pay living wages, so we chose not to hire anyone; we did it all,” she explains. “Marcel, who’s retired, wanted to see us succeed and volunteered his time. He would help us bottle and help me lift heavy things.” In 2020 Marcel’s firefighter brother passed, and he wanted to honour his brother. They had just launched their Heartwood Whisky, and Le gave him five cases with a custom label of his brother's face. “I didn't expect anything in return because that's not the way we do things,” she says. “Marcel is a whisky collector, he has rare whiskies from around the world, and he brought me this Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish Single Malt Whisky. He said, ‘if you ever choose to open it, let's share.’ I've never opened it because I'm waiting for a special occasion. I've always been guilty of this; what occasion could match this?”
Art by Yang Yongliang
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