Culinaire 3:10 (april2015)

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CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.10 :: APRIL 2015

KITCHEN RENOS ADVICE FROM THE PROS AND FROM 5 FAMILIAR FOODIES

KELOWNA TASTING ROOMS

Beyond YYC: Bragg Creek | Growlers & Howlers | Cooking At Home



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VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #10 APRIL 2015

Features 22

The Calm Before The Construction Storm Professional design advice to help you sail through your home kitchen renovations by Jody Robbins

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Beyond YYC: Bragg Creek Discovering a generous selection of great eats, well worth the thirty-minute drive by Carmen Solana-Martin

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8 Must-Visit Kelowna Tasting Rooms A treat for your tastebuds at some of the finest vineyards in this city on the lake by Linda Garson

Departments 12

Savour Fine Foods A gourmand’s wonderland by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

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Kitchen Renovation Stories From 5 familiar foodies by Dan Clapson

36 Have You Filled Your Growler Lately? The “Age of the Growler” has arrived by David Nuttall

38 Calgary’s Emerging Cocktail Culture We’re getting excited about cocktails by Rebecca Davis

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Salutes and Shout Outs

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Ask Culinaire

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Book Review

40 The California Dream Celebrating one of the great wine regions of the world by Adrian Bryksa and Tom Firth

10 Step-By-Step Croque Monsieur

42 Open That Bottle Adam Snelling of Ki Modern Japanese by Linda Garson

20 Soup Kitchen

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Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

24 8 Ways to Spice Up Quiche 26 Menu Gems

On the Cover: Many thanks to Albi Homes for letting us take over their beautiful Carrara 2 Riverstone Estates show home in Cranston. Now we all want a kitchen like this! And thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for capturing so well the rustic, yet ultra-modern feel of this superb space. More thanks are due to our cooks Mallory Frayn, for the delicious chewy chocolate brownies (see p. 26), and to Dan Clapson for the art direction and quinoa chicken salad.

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Letter From The Editor finished; cooking on our new range with its gas hobs and electric ovens, and inviting family and friends round to see the results of our labour.

Have you ever renovated your kitchen? I have, and it was very much a labour of love - and lunacy. When I lived in England, my home was built in 1540, making a renovation of my favourite room in the house quite the exercise. Oh, the hours of planning, scraping, sanding and tiling, before and after work and all weekend. Painting, varnishing and grouting… but there’s nothing comparable to the joy when it was

This month’s magazine is about kitchens and cooking at home. With tips from the professionals, and words of advice from familiar foodie faces in Calgary who have been through their own renovations, we’re hoping to save you the agony and have you heading straight for the ecstasy of a gorgeous new kitchen that you can be proud to invite people round to enjoy! And we know that every gathering starts and ends up in the kitchen…

Have you registered for our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt? If you hurry, you could be one of the lucky adventurers to take part in our inaugural culinary Treasure Hunt on Saturday, April 11! We’re planning a very fun and very rewarding day, so go to culinairemagazine.ca/contests now to reserve your place! You’ll be given trivia questions to answer from over 30 participating restaurants, markets and stores, which will reveal where to dash off to receive a treat, get your passport stamped, and come away with a little culinary gift too!

Wishing a happy Easter and Passover to you all. May there be many eggs in your life this month – poached, scrambled, hardboiled - and of course, chocolate!

And if that’s not enough, you could win of one of the superb and covetous prizes for the people who visit the most locations!

Cheers! Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

It’s certainly going to be a day to remember!

Safari Brunch Sundays, 9:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Zoo admission combo price before noon

calgaryzoo.com


CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Consultant: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Advertising: Naim Malik 403-926-7862 naim@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media: Mallory Frayn web@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Adrian Bryksa Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Jeff Collins Rebecca Davis Stephanie Eddy Mallory Frayn Andrea Fulmek Heather Hartmann Kathy Jollimore Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Fred Malley Karen Miller David Nuttall Jody Robbins Carmen Solana-Martin

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Mallory Frayn

Mallory is a food writer and blogger, living and learning in Calgary. As a culinary student turned psychology major, she helps people develop healthier relationships with food (and chocolate is always included). Her blog becauseilikechocolate.com, combines two passions; food and psychology, and is centred on cooking, baking, eating and learning to accept food one bite at a time. When she isn’t eating or writing, Mallory can be found jogging, especially in Canmore. Follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat

< Renée Kohlman

Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her blog, sweetsugarbean. com, is a combination of her favourite things: cooking, food photography and writing, and she considers herself super fortunate to make a living doing what she loves. Renée writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Her affection for bacon, butter, and living room dance parties is legendary.

< Jody Robbins

Jody Robbins resides in the same starter condo she swore she’d move out of a decade ago. Fortunately, her gig as a freelance lifestyles writer allows her to ditch DIY on a frequent basis. When not travelling with her precocious children (one daughter, one husband and one dog), she can be found frolicking in the Rockies and more often than not, indulging in après-ski. Follow her adventures on her blog Travels with Baggage or on Twitter @Jody_Robbins.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.


We are pleased to announce our

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Canadian Beef Centre of Excellence opens its doors

Tour of Napa Valley July 10th - July 14th Experience the magnificence of California’s famous vineyards, wines and cuisine in this allinclusive12-person luxury tour.

Tour of Northern Italy September 18th - 29th Discover the beauty of Northern Italy and the outstanding wine and food specialities of Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto.

Calgary is proud to host the brand new Centre of Excellence, now open at Canada Beef’s location in the northeast of the city. Cutting the ribbon were the Honourable Gerry Ritz, Minister of Agriculture and AgriFood, and the Honourable Michelle Rempel, Minister of State for Western Economic Diversification, who partnered with Canada Beef to create a $3.8 million funding investment for this

take over - you can hear your dining companion talk!

Le Parc Cafe & Brasserie est arrivé!

Visit vineanddine.ca for food and wine events in Calgary too!

We raise our glasses to all restaurants recognized at the 2015 Vancouver International Wine Festival for creating outstanding wine lists to complement their unique menus and concepts! This year’s Alberta winners are: Platinum: Cilantro, Divino Wine & Cheese Bistro, Vin Room Mission, Vin Room West Gold: The Lake House, Buffalo Mountain Lodge (Banff), Deer Lodge (Lake Louise) Honourable Mention: Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse (Edmonton)

and Shout Outs...

Le Parc Cafe & Brasserie

To request an itinerary and tour details, visit: vineanddine.ca or contact linda@vineanddine.ca 403-870-9802

Congratulations Alberta Wine List Awards winners

My tweet, when I popped in to Parc before they opened, read ‘If the food here tastes as good as the restaurant looks, its going to be another winner.’ Good news – it does! The refurbished ex-Borgo location on 16th Avenue SW is as close to a Parisian brasserie as we’ll find in Calgary, with its black and white chequerboard floor, metro white tiled walls, big mirrors, and joy of joys –ambient French music that doesn’t

Sister restaurant to Bonterra, Cibo, Posto and Scopa, Parc breaks the mould, serving up rich and satisfying, classic French bistro fare. Start with one of Chef Claudio Bagnoli’s seven aperitifs like croquettes with Emmenthal and ham, or wild mushrooms in veal stock on toasted brioche, and wipe your homemade country style or sourdough bread around the red cassoulet dish, before choosing your hors d’oeuvre and plat principaux, or one of the daily changing plat du jour, such as bouillabaisse or agneau pour deux. The cognac-inspired cocktail list branches out to include armagnac and calvados too, and the extensive wine list is 100 percent French, so you can enjoy a glass of malbec from its original home!


The only way to get it fresher is to be there when they’re pressing it.

‘tis the season!

The season of outdoor cooking and entertaining has arrived! Visit Willow Park Village for naturally raised meats, seafood, specialty cheeses, sweet treats and all the other essential ingredients of the season!

PREMIUM EXTRA VIRGIN & NATURALLY FLAVOURED OLIVE OILS + VINEGARS Visit us in Canyon Meadows or The Calgary Famers Market

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If you had to choose between world peace or a cocktail,

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Ask Culinaire by TOM FIRTH

I have some nice wine glasses, but I’m afraid to use them - is that ridiculous?

Maybe a little… Nice wine glasses are meant to be used. There is absolutely no point in saving them for special occasions only; it would be a crying shame to one day pack up your life and find a dusty box of neverused glasses. But I will say that wine, beer, and spirits always taste better in the right glass, and they almost always taste better in crystal stemware. That doesn’t mean you have to break the bank buying certain brand names, or buy a million different glasses (hint: buy the basic types suitable for what you drink most often first).

Accidents Happen You will break them. At my house, we have a staggering number of wine glasses, probably worth a value I don’t want to figure out, and I am the most likely person to use them and most likely the person to break them. They

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are meant to be used, enjoyed, and gradually they will wear out, but there are a few things you can do to make sure you get the most enjoyment out of them.

a mild scent or non-scented soap. Some crystal is touted as being dishwashersafe but if yours isn’t, you won’t find out until it’s too late.

There is absolutely no point in saving them for special occasions only

When polishing your glassware, use a large, thin, lint free tea towel or polishing cloth and take extra care not to twist the bowl of the glass and the foot at the same time. You can also put on the kettle for some steam to help with stubborn water spots. If you hesitate to use a decanter because you don’t like to clean them, a little ice and some coarse salt can help clean up stubborn wine residue.

you used them. Wash them the next morning. You aren’t in a rush to get to bed, nor do you have the super-strength of a slightly inebriated party-goer. A gentle dish soap can’t hurt, although some people swear by using just very hot water. If you use soap (as I do) pick

If you still don’t use your glasses often and they pick up a bit of a musty smell between uses, you can “condition” your glasses before use. Simply pour a little wine into the glass, roll the glass around to cover the inside of the glass with wine, and pour the wine into the next glass to be conditioned. Voila! Your glasses have no “off” scents and you are ready to go!

First off, almost all wine glasses are better for being washed by hand. Best advice I ever heard on the matter is to never, ever wash glasses the day or night


Book Reviews

by KAREN MILLER

Ski Resort, this cookbook is filled with tried and true, hearty, fulfilling recipes with evidence of many different cultural and worldly inspirations.

Whitewater Cooks with Passion

The author was one of the owners, and at that time started sharing her passion with the Fresh Tracks Cafe. She supplied hearty, healthy breakfasts and lunches for skiers heading out for the day. Although no longer an owner, this is the fourth of her Whitewater Cooks series, and the recipes continue to pack the necessary punch.

This cookbook is a true reflection of what is important in the Kootenays, just outside Nelson, B.C. Just as people come from all over to settle here, and many others come to visit Whitewater

With recipes from many different chefs and treasured friends in the area, the cookbook is often geared to entertaining large groups, with lots of flavour and in a wide variety of styles. None are too complicated and many provide for make

By Shelley Adams, 2014, $34.95

ahead preparations. So much more than the ubiquitous bowl of chili. There is a strong healthy influence, including vegetarian or vegan versions of classics, (“Tuscan Eggs Florentine” on p. 14), but the “Lime and Pistachio loaf” on p.176 is sumptuous and very decadent. Many recipes do have long lists of ingredients, but all are mainstream enough to find. There are great suggestions for combining recipes, again showcasing the gathering of friends and family. Everyone will be able to find some passion of their own in this cookbook. Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Tel: 403.275.3300 www.italianstore.ca

Thank you for your support throughout the year. We wish you all the best in 2015.

5140 Skyline Way NE

Calgary, AB T2E 6V1


Step By Step: Croque-Monsieur by RENEE KOHLMAN

I’ve never been to France (which is a travesty in its own right), but by all accounts I’m told one simply must eat a CroqueMonsieur sandwich while seated at a tiny bistro table on a cobblestone road. Along with gorging on croissants and macarons, it’s your duty to do so. No trips planned to France in the near future? Never fear, I’m here to tell you how to make your own iconic ham and cheese sandwich in the comforts of your own kitchen.

To get that great crunch, start with good bread

Not just your everyday toasted ham and cheese sandwich, the Croque-Monsieur is first briefly fried in butter, then topped with a creamy Bechamel sauce. More shredded Gruyère cheese is added for good measure then the sandwich is broiled until golden and magnificent. This is definitely not a low calorie affair, but like all the kids are saying these days, YOLO!

The 4 pillars of a Croque-Monsieur The Bread: In case you’re wondering, “Croque” means crunch, and yes “Mr. Crunch” lacks all the sophistication of “CroqueMonsieur.” To get that great crunch, one must start with good bread. I popped into my favourite bakery and picked up a loaf of country white. It’s got a great chew, decent crust and sourdough tang. 10


Some worldly variations of the Croque-Monsieur: Croque Provençal with tomato Croque Señor with salsa Croque Hawaiian with pineapple slice Croque Gagnet with Gouda cheese and andouille sausage Croque Norvégian with smoked salmon instead of ham

The Cheese: Next up is the cheese. Gruyère is classic and deservedly so. Its slightly sweet, nutty flavour lends itself well to the salty ham and creamy Bechamel sauce. Besides, it melts like a dream and seeing as it is my favourite cheese, I look for any and all excuses to eat it. The Ham: If you’re fortunate to have any leftover Easter ham hanging about the refrigerator, this is a great way to use it up. I splurged on Serrano ham, but any

The Classic Croque-Monsieur Makes 2 sandwiches Total cook time 15 minutes

2 Tbs unsalted butter 2 Tbs all-purpose flour 1 cup (240 mL) whole milk 1 pinch nutmeg 1 bay leaf 4 slices country white bread (or other firm white sandwich bread) 120 g ham, thinly sliced 120 g Gruyère cheese, sliced 2 Tbs melted butter ½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

good quality deli ham will do. The Sauce: What sets this sandwich apart is the application of a white sauce. The browned, bubbling beauty of the sandwich is all thanks to the Bechamel. A simple “mother” sauce, it’s good to know how to make one in any case. If you love mustard, feel free to slather some grainy Dijon on the bread before adding the cheese or stir a teaspoon or so right into the Bechamel.

1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan

over medium high heat. Add the flour and stir for one minute. This will “cook out” the flour.

2. Gradually whisk in the milk, add

the nutmeg and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper. Continue to whisk constantly until sauce is thick, about 3 minutes.

3. Preheat broiler. 4. Lay two pieces of bread on cutting

board. Top with equal parts sliced cheese and ham. Place the other two bread slices on top and brush all sides with melted butter.

Croque Bolognese/Boum-Boum with Bolognese Sauce Croque Madame a Croque Monsieur with a poached or fried egg on top. The dome of the egg apparently resembles an old fashioned woman’s hat. How’s that for food lore?

Gruyère is classic and deservedly so

5. Heat a large skillet over medium

heat. Add the sandwiches, fry for about 3 minutes on each side until golden brown and then transfer sandwiches to baking sheet.

6. Spoon Bechamel sauce evenly

on top of the sandwiches. Top with shredded Gruyère cheese. Place baking sheet under the broiler. Broil for 2-3 minutes, watching closely. Remove from oven when cheese is bubbling and brown. Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com 11


Savour Fine Foods:

Bringing A Taste Of Luxury To Home Cooks

by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Most ambitious home cooks know the feeling of finding an exciting and adventurous recipe in a popular chef-driven cookbook, only to find that the recipe calls for ingredients or kitchen tools that we’re not likely to find in our local Canadian grocery store (we’re looking at you, Yotam Ottolenghi).

When you’re only a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses or a pinch of sumac away from the perfect meal (or need to scare up the right tagine to cook it in), Savour Fine Foods (located at 1331 9th Avenue SE) will likely be able to hook you up with whatever it is you need to take your cooking to the next level. A gourmand’s wonderland of Le Creuset pots, microplanes of every size and description, and shelves stocked with fancy oils and vinegars, imported pastas, and fragrant spices, this little Inglewood shop is packed with brightly coloured cooking utensils and scrumptiouslooking ingredients, all waiting to help customers go the extra mile with their homemade culinary creations. “People like being adventurous and trying new things with their cooking,” says Savour owner Michelle Barby, explaining why her customers seek out the specialty items that she stocks in

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the store. “Cooking is a way of sharing with your family and friends. We all eat, so it’s fun and more enjoyable to make it special as opposed to just feeding ourselves for fueling purposes.”

People like being adventurous and trying new things with their cooking

Barby opened Savour in 2008 with her friend Jane Hammink; the two were teaching ESL at Mount Royal University, and bonded over a shared love of food. Following the cues of the small independent specialty shops that the two women remembered from their respective backgrounds on the west coast, they knew they wanted to create something that was highly curated and had the kind of atmosphere that would draw in a customer base


that understood the virtues of Brassica mustard or French table linens.

Michelle Barby

They chose a beautiful spot in Inglewood — which is quickly becoming the foodie district of Calgary — for its community feel and the vintage charm of the building. “I think the reason that Savour has been successful is because we took the time to think about what we wanted to do and think about Calgary and the market,” Barby says. “And also to choose the right location and be in an area like Inglewood, and have the support of the neighbourhood and people in the city who really think small businesses are important.”

Cooking at home in general has exploded

The pains that Barby and Hammink took in choosing Savour’s location (which is made even more perfect by the giant window at the front of the store that shows off all of the brightly coloured cookware) extend to the items that Barby now decides to stock. In contrast to a supermarket or a standard housewares store, the shop’s wares fit a highly specific niche, one that triedand-true foodies will understand but more utilitarian eaters may not really get. Which fits with Barby’s plan: she doesn’t want Savour to be a catch-all for anyone who has to get a meal on the table. The idea is to carry items that loyal customers will be able to trust, whether they’re shopping for their own kitchens or for gifts to share with other home cook friends. “We’ve always put quality at the top of the list, both in the food and the kitchenware,” Barby says. “We test, taste, try, and go with reputable suppliers and stand behind our products. If we find out something is not really

living up to what we thought it was, we don’t continue to sell it. We don’t believe in gadgets for the sake of gadgets, and the food we sell is all highquality product that we’d use at home.” Barby says that she has seen trends come and go over the years with certain products remaining eternally popular (like multi-purpose garlic twists, the ever-popular fish-shaped Gurgle Pot water pitchers, and food items like smoked salts and Indian spices) but the common thread with all of them goes back to that theme of adding a little bit of luxury to the home cooking experience. She sees the store’s

success as being a combination of her own careful attention to detail and a continued interest in cooking among the general population. Watching the direction that home cooking is continuing to take, Savour’s popularity is only likely to grow in the coming years. We all eat, so it’s fun and more enjoyable to make it special… “Cooking at home in general has exploded,” Barby says. “I think when we opened the store there wasn’t as much of a public consciousness about cooking. It was starting but not to the extent it’s at now where people want to know where their food comes from and grow it themselves or make pasta from scratch at home.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs. 13


Chefs' Tips Tricks! Kitchen Hacks by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Chef Jason Barton-Browne

Chef Jason Barton-Browne Teatro “Anyone can put a piece of meat in a sous vide bag and make it taste good,” says Chef Jason BartonBrowne of Calgary institution, Teatro. Vegetables on the other hand, take much more finesse to showcase. Lucky for you, there are plenty of insider tools and techniques to help feature vegetables in all of their glory. Take the art of making a creamy, ethereal puree for example. The

Chef Jason Barton-Browne’s Cabbage-Wrapped Guinea Hen with Brown Butter Carrot Puree

key, says Chef Barton-Browne, is to cook your vegetables to the point of disintegration. In order to speed up this process and ensure consistent cooking, he suggests grating rather than chopping vegetables prior to simmering them in the liquid of your choice. Then when you go to puree them, there won’t be any undercooked granules remaining. Use this technique in Chef Barton-Browne’s recipe for brown butter carrot puree.

See culinairemagazine.ca for Chef Jason Barton-Browne’s Poached Quince and Cabbage Brine recipes

Serves 4

Carrot Puree: 100 g butter 300 g grated carrot

1. For brown butter, heat at a medium

temperature until the butter bubbles: This is the start of clarification. Keep at a low temperature. The milk solid will separate from the butter. As the solids brown, they start to infuse the butter with a rich, nutty flavour. When your butter has that nutty aroma, remove from the heat to cool slightly.

2. Add the grated carrot, and return to

low heat. You grate the carrot to cook it out fast. This should keep a bright colour and fresh carrot flavour. If needed, add just enough water to the pot to cover the carrots. Simmer until tender. 14

3. When tender, separate the liquid

from the carrot. Place all of the carrot in the blender, and turn on. Slowly add the liquid until the mix starts to blend. Turn to high speed. If it stops blending, just add a little more brown butter mix. Blend until smooth, and pass through a fine-mesh strainer. Season with salt and lemon (acidity balances the puree).

Guinea Hen: 4 breasts 4 brined cabbage leaves

1. Place a cabbage leaf in the center of

a large piece of saran wrap. Remove the skin and season the breast with salt and pepper. To get a nice round shape: Put the breast 1/3 back in the leaf; fold the outside leaf into the breast; Wrap the back part of the leaf around the breast, and pull back to keep the cabbage tight. Now roll the rest of the leaf around the breast, using saran wrap to help. Wrap tightly.

2. Poach in water until medium rare.

(54º C in sous vide 45 minutes) Garnish with nasturtium leaves. They have a very nice spiciness that balances this dish.


Chef Jan Hansen

Chef Jan Hansen Heritage Park “Vegetable peelers can do more than just peel potatoes,” says Chef Jan Hansen, who is responsible for overseeing the food service operations at Heritage Park. Get yourself a sharp peeler and it can turn virtually any vegetable into paper-thin shavings, perfect for blanching lightly, or simply eating raw. Not to mention it also works great on hard cheeses, such as parmesan, adding that salty bite to garnish salads or side dishes. Shaved carrots can make a beautiful, refreshing salad, especially if you use rainbow carrots for colour. Simply wash and peel them to remove any dirt or

grit, shaving the cleaned carrots into thin ribbons. Chef Hansen suggests combining the carrots with other vegetables and herbs in season. Vegetable peelers can do more than just peel potatoes

Using a more delicate dressing, like one made from champagne vinegar, also allows subtler flavours to shine through. With fresh ingredients and a deft hand, you really cannot go wrong.

Chef Jan Hansen’s Shaved Carrot Salad

Serves 6 as a side or 4 as an entrée 12 medium sized rainbow carrots, organic if possible 2 blood oranges 1 small red onion 5-8 fresh basil leaves Salt, pepper

For vinaigrette: 1 shallot, peeled and quartered ¼ cup (60 mL) champagne vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tsp (5 mL) honey Lemon juice and zest from ½ lemon tsp salt Freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Wash 12 medium sized rainbow

carrots under cold water with a scrub brush, removing a fine layer of peel. Peel carrots lengthwise to create long ribbons using as much of the carrot as possible.

2. Place carrot ribbons in cold water to crisp. Drain and dry ribbons just before you need them.

3. Segment two blood oranges and julienne the onion.

champagne vinaigrette and salt & pepper to taste.

4. Julienne basil leaves, saving some for 6. Use tongs to place salad into bowl or garnish.

5. Pulse all vinaigrette ingredients

plate and pour remaining dressing over. Garnish with a few basil leaves.

together in a blender, then toss carrot ribbons, julienne basil, red onions, 15


Chef Michael Allemeier’s Herb Scented Roasted Chicken and Potatoes Yields 1 chicken serving 4-6

Chef Michael Allemeier

1 whole fresh roaster chicken (2-3kg) 125 mL butter, at room temperature 8 whole shallots, peeled 6 whole cloves of garlic, peeled 1 lemon, cut in half 3 branches of fresh rosemary 8 branches of fresh thyme 2 branches of fresh sage 2 bay leaves 4 large Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters 100 mL canola oil 1 tsp sweet paprika To taste salt and pepper

3. Using butchers twine, truss the

1. Preheat oven to 375˚ F.

20 minutes, remove it from the oven and tilt the pan so the juices and melted butter run to one corner. Using a large tablespoon, spoon the juices over the whole chicken, ensuring all exposed skin has been basted.

Chef Michael Allemeier SAIT

2. Pat the chicken dry and then season

As any industry professional knows, a spoon is a cook’s best friend. These handy utensils aren’t just for tasting though; they are also ideal tools for basting. Chef Michael Allemeier, a Certified Chef de Cuisine and instructor at SAIT, describes basting as “the skill of spooning or brushing food with melted butter, fat, meat drippings or stock as it cooks.” Basically it allows you to add extra flavour, moisture and colour to whatever you are cooking.

Place 4 shallots, 3 garlic cloves, the lemon halves, and all of the rosemary, thyme, sage and bay leaves inside the cavity.

Basting is the skill of spooning or brushing food with melted butter, fat, meat drippings or stock as it cooks Basting can be done regularly throughout the cooking process of larger ingredients like roasts, or at the end of cooking fish or vegetables. Just add a small knob of butter to the pan, along with aromatics like thyme and lemon zest. Tilting the pan slightly allows the herb-infused butter to pool at the bottom, where you can scoop and spoon it over the fish or vegetables of your choice. 16

the interior cavity with salt and pepper.

chicken to ensure consistent cooking. Place the trussed bird in a roasting tray, breast-side up. Rub softened butter over the top, seasoning with salt and pepper.

4. Roast chicken for 20 minutes. While the bird is roasting, prep the potatoes by adding canola oil and sweet paprika to coat. Add the remaining shallots and garlic, tossing to mix. Season with salt and pepper.

5. After the chicken has roasted for


TO P VALUE RUFFINO LUMINA PINOT GRIGIO IGT 2013 - Alber ta Beverage Awards 2014

6. Arrange the potatoes, shallots and

garlic around the chicken and return the roasting pan to the oven. Baste every 20 minutes, making sure all exposed chicken skin and the potatoes are coated.

7. Cook the chicken to an internal

temperature of 77˚ C (170˚ F), using an instant read thermometer. Read the temperature from the thigh portion of the bird, ensuring that the thermometer doesn’t touch the bone.

8. Once the chicken is cooked, remove it from the oven and allow it to rest for 20-30 minutes. This carry-over cooking allows the juices to redistribute, temperatures to equalize, and the final stages of cooking to occur.

9. The potatoes can continue to roast

Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

while the chicken rests. Remember to baste them often. Once the chicken has rested, carve and serve with the roasted potatoes.

17


Leslie Echino Though wine may be her forte, that doesn’t mean that Blink’s owner, Leslie Echino, doesn’t want to have a nice kitchen at home too. The most important appliance in your kitchen? Wine fridge, ha! But seriously, having a good stove top. I don’t like gas and Miele makes the best induction stove tops. It gives your kitchen a clean look and doesn’t put off much heat. It cooks evenly and heats up/cools down almost instantly.

5 Familiar Foodies

Share Their Kitchen Renovation Stories by DAN CLAPSON

As nice as it is to have a beautiful kitchen, the road to it isn’t always smooth. We chatted with some recognizable faces in the food world that have all undergone kitchen renovations recently. They share their ups and downs, and a few great tips too! John Gilchrist What? Food critics cook too? You bet they do! The CBC restaurant reviewer and Calgary Herald columnist shares some of his renovation experiences. How did you keep your renovation going smoothly? I told our contractor that I didn’t care when the reno took place, just that it had to be done in one piece. He promised me they’d come in on Monday morning, do the tear out, then replace plumbing and wiring, the cupboards and venting, add backsplash tile and new lighting, install new sinks and counters 18

Your favourite part of your new kitchen? The white carrara marble island with my Miele stove top. I fell in love with the marble. I’m sure it is so impractical yet looks amazing and impressive - laughs. Best tip you’d offer someone? You need to trust your contractor, otherwise it can get very expensive and time consuming. They can make the experience enjoyable or extremely painful! Thank goodness mine was amazing and made me stay on budget! Leslie Echino

and replace the floor and have us in a working kitchen by Friday night. Friday at 7pm, the water came back on. It wasn’t all finished, but it went very smooth! Your favourite part of your new kitchen? The light, lots more of it. And that everything actually works now. Best tip you’d offer someone? Round knobs for cupboards or doors. If square knobs are off-centre even a little bit, they look awful. With round ones, who can tell?

John Gilchrist


Danielle Cardozo Photo courtesy of Chad St. Pierre

Karen Richards and Tim Daigle @socialgrrrl on Twitter, Karen Richards has her hands in a lot of things, from teaching social media courses at Mount Royal College to writing for Avenue, and of course, heading up Calgary Poutine Week. The most unexpected road bump during your renovation? New post-1955 guidelines for electrical...electrical was easily the most expensive install. Also if you have a developed basement, be prepared to demo some of the ceiling to run new services. Most renos in older homes can be complex if rewiring or new plumbing is required and you have a developed ceiling in your basement.

Danielle Cardozo The MasterChef Canada season one finalist loves to cook for family and friends, so began working on her kitchen just a few months ago to turn it into a more functional space, perfect for entertaining. The one part of the kitchen you think is the most important to sink extra money into if you can? A good chef can cook with any appliance. With that said, if you’re renovating your home kitchen and you are on a budget, spend the money on the infrastructure. You can always buy new appliances down the road, but it’s much harder to add something like a new countertop later on!

Your favourite part of your new kitchen? Stainless steel countertops - sanitary and gorgeous. Also very original, we’d Julie Van Rosendaal

Julie Van Rosendaal

Your favourite part of your new kitchen? Besides opening it up for entertaining, it’s definitely my spice rack pull out! I love the organization that it brings to the kitchen.

Best-selling cookbook author and personality, Van Rosendaal lives in a charming old character home in Calgary. With charming old homes come older kitchens and a need for a facelift. After completing her kitchen earlier this year, Van Rosendaal finally has a space she truly loves.

Best tip you’d offer someone? Don’t do it! No, I’m kidding. I’d say when it comes to your kitchen, really over-budget in the planning stages. You’d be amazed at what comes up when you least expect it.

What’s the toughest thing about the renovation process? Without question, not having a kitchen! And, also, doing dishes in the bathtub. Seriously... at first it was like camping, but by Thanksgiving, having noodles

Karen Richards’ Kitchen

say, for a home kitchen as compared to the old standards like stone or concrete! Best tip you’d offer someone? Make sure that all surfaces such as walls and floors are flat, true and level or you will be compensating for these being overlooked for the rest of your renovation. In some cases you will not be able to continue until these surfaces are levelled. swimming around my feet every time I had a shower got pretty old! Your favourite part of your new kitchen? The drawers! Drawers are SO MUCH MORE USEFUL than the old cupboards I had that were so awkward to get into. Also, I have a proper place for garbage and recycling, and a fridge with an ice machine, which I’ve never owned before, and makes me feel like a total adult. Best tip you’d offer someone? Don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t do something. We had an old hardwood floor that had been stripped so many times we couldn’t do it again. I suggested painting it, but everyone said we couldn’t, that the paint wouldn’t last. To replace just the small kitchen floor would have cost about $5,000. So I asked until I got the answer I wanted - I found a super tough (yet not toxic) paint at Walls Alive that has some sort of glue in it that bonds with the wood, and I love the painted floor... which we did ourselves for about $100. 19


Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON

Ah, Spring is finally in the air! Since we can’t celebrate the warmer weather by wearing shorts and suntanning outside (quite yet), the next best thing might just be enjoying a fresh-tasting soup beside a sunny window. Alright, perhaps it’s not actually the next best, but everyone’s got to eat, so you may as well eat well! Spring Green Soup with Cashew Basil Gremolata Serves 4-5 Total cook time 30 minutes

Soup: 1 Tbs (15 mL) camelina oil 5 cm thick slices pancetta, diced 2 Tbs (30mL) white wine 1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced 1 yellow onion, diced 4 cups fresh spinach ¼ cup fresh parsley, roughly chopped ¼ cup fresh basil leaves 6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable stock 2 Tbs unsalted butter 2 Tbs all-purpose flour 1 bunch Swiss chard, roughly chopped Salt and pepper, to taste

Gremolata: ½ cup fresh basil leaves 2 tsp fresh lemon zest ½ cup roasted cashews ¼ tsp ground black pepper 1 pinch salt

2. Next, pour white wine in pot to

deglaze and then add in green onions, garlic and onion and let cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the spinach, stirring well to incorporate and let mixture continue to cook for 5 more minutes.

Everyone’s got to eat, so you may as well eat well!

1. Heat canola oil on medium-high

heat in a large pot. Add diced pancetta and cook until crispy, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer from pan to paper towel to absorb any excess grease. 20

4. Before returning puree to the pot,

use the same pot to melt down the butter, adding in the flour to make a roux. Once you return the soup to the pot, allow it to come to a simmer and it will thicken slightly.

5. Add the chopped chard as well as

the cooked pancetta, reduce to medium heat and let cook for 10 minutes. To finish, season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. To make the gremolata, place all 3. Transfer contents of pot into a large

blender along with fresh herbs and stock, and then puree until very smooth.

ingredients in a food processor and pulse several times until you have a relatively fine blend. Once the soup is portioned out, garnish the bowls with it.


Korean Chicken and Rice Cake Soup 1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Place chicken thighs into a prepared

baking dish and roast until completely cooked through and the skin has turned golden and crispy, about 22-25 minutes.

3. Once cooked, remove from oven

and let cool slightly before removing the meat. Discard the bones and skin (or eat the skin, delicious!).

4. Heat sesame oil in a medium pot

on medium-high heat. Add in the sliced onion and gochujang and cook for 5 minutes.

5. Next, pour the broth and water into

the pot and let come to a boil. Place the next 6 ingredients into the pot, reduce to medium heat and let simmer for 20 minutes.

Serves 4 Total cook time 35 minutes 4 skin-on chicken thighs 2 tsp sesame oil 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 Tbs (15ml) gochujang* 4 cups (1 L) pork broth 2 cups (500 mL) water 8 shishito peppers* ½ cup thinly sliced garlic scapes 1 Tbs (15 mL) rice wine vinegar 1 Tbs (15 mL) sriracha

2 tsp (10 mL) soy sauce ½ teaspoon freshly ground szechuan peppercorns 1 cup Korean rice cakes 1 cup thinly sliced cucumber Salt and pepper, to taste *These items can be found at any Asian specialty market, as well as some Superstore locations.

6. Add cooked chicken meat, rice

cakes and cucumber to the pot and cook until the cakes are tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve. Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

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The Calm Before The Construction Storm:

Great Design Advice To Make Your Home Kitchen Renovations A Breeze by JODY ROBBINS

It was the utensil drawer that did it. Or more specifically, the fact said drawer came off in my hand after an over zealous tug one bleary morning. Looking around our kitchen revealed many unpleasant realities: cupboards literally falling apart, stained arborite countertops, a rusted range hood... It was high time for a renovation, but I soon discovered delving into the world of kitchen design isn’t all Pinterest boards and Crate and Barrel excursions. Here’s a look at what you need to know before you get cooking with your plans.

Alright, First Things First! Every (good) expert out there will ask you to start thinking about how you’d ideally use your kitchen. Do you entertain frequently? Will there be primarily one cook? How you’re going to use the space will dictate the design

of your kitchen. “You want to put in only what’s going to suit your home and contribute to the flow,” advises kitchen designer Kyla Wood. Then comes the fun part - shopping to get a feel for style options. In Calgary, Legacy Kitchens, Trail Appliances and Robinson Lighting are good places to start. And don’t be scared off by the price. The purpose of this exercise is simply to figure out your likes and dislikes. There’s a big difference between a change of footprint and a lipstick job Next, decide what’s most important to you, and set an appropriate budget to keep yourself contained. Costs such as hardware can creep up, yet there are ways to get that Restoration Hardware look without the price. Take advantage of big box stores that offer design services for free. “It’s best to book an in-store appointment and come in knowing where your plumbing, windows and support beams

22


7 Home Kitchen Trends Not To Miss

are, in addition to wall and cabinets measurements. Stores can then run off numbers and give you a quote,” advises Wood.

1. Pot drawers are de rigueur for storing anything heavy, from dishes to mixers.

2. White is still right. New colours

The kitchen… is the heart of the home and you want that space to be inviting to cook and laugh together

are launched every year, but white always sells. It’s clean, simple, and can be traditional or modern depending on cabinet door styles.

3. Islands pop with personality if they

Before engaging with a contractor or designer, seek referrals and references to ensure their work fits your vision. During your meeting, get an understanding of what’s being provided, their rate and the time frame for completion of each stage. “People usually have a vague idea on timing, but don’t realize the specifics,” warns interior designer Brooklyn Berry. And be sure to bring up what frustrates you about your current situation. Their job is to offer solutions that alleviate hassles.

look like furniture. Try staining the base a different colour, adding casters to the base or turning a vintage dresser into one.

4. The flat slab lacquered look can

be yours, so long as there’s no detail on cabinet doors and they’re painted high gloss.

5. Subway tiles are still on point, but with a twist. Change the layout from stacked to herringbone or offset. Consider charcoal grey grouting for added drama.

Avoiding Avocado Appliances Certain trends, like gold fixtures, look quite swish, but homeowners need to consider if they’re able to afford keeping trends current. Ideally, you’d swap out the latest fashion within five to eight years. If you’re having a hard time deciding between a passing fad and a trend, it’s best to rely on a professional opinion. A good interior designer or decorator should figure out who you are, how you live and be able to decipher what’s best for you. “I design for the client not for trends, but if they’re trendy and into that, I’ll do it,” says Christina Aldana, interior decorator at Aldana Designs Inc.

Saving Money in the Long Run While many folks fancy themselves as DIYers, there’s a big difference between a change of footprint and a lipstick job. To gauge whether you’re biting off more than you can chew, Aldana recommends paying a consultation fee. “Show a

6. Panels in front of dishwasher and

fridge give that clean, continuous look to a kitchen.

7. Microwave drawers set below

countertop height (often into islands) are accessible for children and not at sight line. contractor your plan, get their ideas and see if they have any concerns. If you’re still convinced you can do it yourself, go for it,” she says.

and BrooklynBerryDesigns.com. Simply submit your question and receive a custom solution within days.

Some contractors allow you to assist with demolition, cabinet assembly or removing the floor, thus trimming labour costs. And you can always put off purchasing appliances to a later date, so long as you ensure the new, larger models will fit into your current space.

While it all may sound a bit daunting, getting it right (the first time) is worth it, according to Kimerie Janzen, sales manager at Baywest Homes. “The kitchen is where people gather. It’s the heart of the home and you want that space to be inviting to cook and laugh together.”

Another wallet-friendly option is to take advantage of e-design services, such as those offered by Aldana Designs Inc.

Jody Robbins is a freelance lifestyles writer, which allows her to ditch DIY on a frequent basis for travels with her family. Follow her adventures on her blog ‘Travels with Baggage’ or on Twitter @Jody_Robbins. 23


Ways to Spice Up Quiche

by KATHY JOLLIMORE

Don’t believe what they say; real men do eat quiche! While classics like quiche Lorraine will never steer you wrong, literally anything in your fridge can transform an otherwise mundane breakfast into something amazing. But don’t relegate quiche to the breakfast table; it’s the perfect portable lunch or even a main course at dinner. Simply beef up the meal with a salad, side of roasted potatoes or, better yet, smother it in hollandaise and call it a day!

1. Bottoms Up

While a basic pie crust is the foundation to a good quiche, infusing it with flavour can change everything. Easy options include fresh herbs, grated sharp cheese with a good dose of black pepper, or even maple syrup for a touch of sweetness. Alternatively, forgo the traditional crust altogether. Try: –– Cornmeal, oatmeal or masa crust –– Phyllo or puff pastry crust –– Hash brown crust (made with potatoes, sweet potatoes or celeriac) 24

2. Spice is Nice

Fresh or dried herbs are always a great addition to any quiche, but add a dash of heat or umami and you’ll even impress yourself. Try: –– Whole grain Dijon –– Sriracha or Sambal Oelek –– Soy sauce

3. Go Green

There isn’t a vegetable that doesn’t play well with quiche. It’s the perfect opportunity to clean out that crisper especially when those vegetables are looking less than perfect. Standard choices are spinach, zucchini, mushrooms, broccoli, kale, tomatoes, and leeks, while less obvious additions include fennel, corn, roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, sun dried tomatoes, olives, artichokes, and sweet potatoes.

4. More Meat

Think quiche is only for those breakfast meats like ham or bacon? Think again. Virtually any meat – especially leftovers – can take an ordinary quiche to the next level. Try: –– Steak –– Prosciutto –– Roasted chicken

5. Get Cheesy

Go beyond the typical mozzarella or cheddar and instead opt for cheeses that pack more punch. While most varieties will complement whatever you throw at them, these combinations won’t disappoint. Try: –– Brie, shallots and mushrooms –– Feta, olives, tomato, and spinach –– Blue cheese, Brussels sprouts and bacon


6. Around the World

For inspiration, look no further than cuisines the world over. There are endless combinations to bring new flavours to your table. Try: –– Mexican – pulled pork, corn, jalapeno, and cilantro served with avocado and salsa –– Spanish – chorizo, potatoes, smoked paprika, and manchego –– Italian – prosciutto, basil, tomato, and fresh mozzarella

Anything in your fridge can transform an otherwise mundane breakfast into something amazing

Smoked Bacon, Roasted Squash and Goat Cheese Quiche Serves 4-5 Total cook time 1 hour

This squash has it all. It’s the pretty balance of sweet, savoury and salty. Though roasted squash may seem like an unlikely candidate, it is the perfect complement to the sage and bacon while also providing loads of vitamins. 1¼ cup flour ¼ tsp salt 1/3 cup cold butter, cubed 1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrup 4-5 Tbs (60-75 mL) cold water ½ small acorn or buttercup squash, seeded 170 g thick cut smoked bacon, roughly chopped ¼ cup sage leaves 4 eggs 1 cup (240 mL) heavy cream 1/8 tsp nutmeg ½ tsp salt 1/8 tsp fresh cracked black pepper 80 g goat cheese, crumbled

7. The Shape Game

Even though quiche is typically served as a round pie, you don’t need to conform. Think outside the box or, rather, the pie. Mini tart pans, square cake pans, tall springform pans, and even baking sheets can bring new life to an old favorite.

8. Under the Sea

Skip the meat in favour of rich seafood. Try seafood or fish quiches with fennel, dill, or tarragon, and sharp cheeses like Jarlsberg or Gruyere. Lobster and bacon is also a match made in heaven. Try: –– Crab or lobster –– Smoked salmon –– Smoked haddock

2. In a medium bowl, mix together

the flour and salt. With a fork or pastry cutter, cut in the cold butter. Add the maple syrup and enough cold water to bring the dough together. Form into a ball. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 30 cm (12”) circle. Fit into a 23 cm (9”) tart pan or pie plate. Trim and crimp edges if using a pie plate.

3. Fill shell with weights or dried beans,

and bake 10 minutes. Remove the beans or weights. Bake another 8-10 minutes until slightly browned. Reduce the oven to 350º F.

3303 Boucherie Rd. West Kelowna 1-800-420-9463 | quailsgate.com

4. While the crust is baking, heat a

skillet over medium heat. Cook the bacon until the fat renders and it begins to crisp. Remove and fry sage leaves in the hot bacon grease 1-2 min.

5. Whisk together eggs, cream,

nutmeg, salt and pepper. When the crust is cooked, layer the squash slices on the bottom followed by the bacon, crumbled sage, and goat cheese. Pour in the egg mixture. Bake until the filling is 1. Preheat oven to 400º F. Roast squash set and the crust is golden brown, about on a baking sheet cut side down until just 30 minutes. tender, about 25 minutes. When cool, Kathy Jollimore is a cooking school instructor, food writer, and food stylist in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She cut into thin slices, removing the skin.

writes the blog eathalifax.ca and contributes to a weekly recipe column in the Chronicle Herald. 25


Menu Gems Our beverage and our food contributors all love to cook, so we asked for their favourite dishes to cook in their own kitchens. Some very tasty dishes here! Recipes and photos of the dishes are all available on culinairemagazine.ca.

Sriracha Maple Glazed Salmon

A simple dish of Sriracha Maple Glazed Salmon (combine Sriracha, maple syrup and a little lime juice and baste salmon) served on a bitter green salad (mix escarole, frisée, Belgian endive and dill) tossed with a lemon caper dressing (olive oil, lemon juice, capers, salt and pepper) and topped with whatever micro greens I have on my kitchen counter. A great balance of spicy, sweet and tart. Karen Miller

Kale and Lentil Salad in a Warm Bacon Vinaigrette With Fried Egg

I love this salad because you can eat it any time of day really late breakfast, lunch, dinner. It’s fairly healthy with all the kale and lentils, but the warm bacon fat vinaigrette brings a little indulgence home. Also, the sweetness of the dried figs pairs so well with the salty bits of bacon. And who doesn’t love a fried egg on top? Renee Kohlman

Pesto Parmesan Stuffed Chicken Wrapped in Prosciutto

Though this dish may sound fancy, it is incredibly easy to prepare and is packed with amazing flavours. Whether you pair this chicken with your favourite salad, rice medley, or risotto, you are sure to impress your guests (and they may just think you spent all afternoon preparing this meal!). Andrea Fulmek

Shrimp Diavola

This is a favourite of mine because it’s very quick and easy, the ingredients are things I always have on hand, and guests always enjoy it if they share my love of spicy food. It pairs really well with a crisp white wine. Heather Hartmann

Banana Bread

This recipe doesn’t require a mixer and I usually have the ingredients on hand. A loaf never lasts long in our house and I don’t trust people who prefer cakey brownies to fudgy ones. it’s a quick and easy treat to bring along with to a friend’s Brownies are supposed to be dense, chocolatey and decadent. house or pack for a road trip. This recipe delivers on that and is super easy to make at home. Stephanie Eddy Plenty of melted butter and dark chocolate make these a treat you will want to sink your teeth into asap. Mallory Frayn

Best-ever Brownies

Braised Lamb Chops

Coconut Teriyaki Chicken Stir-fry for 2

I like this style of dish for its ease of preparation, using only one pot and it’s a great way to catch up on eating fresh vegetables. The coconut fat is a healthy choice and the absence of sugar in the sauce enhances its healthful qualities. Fred Malley 26

When you buy a package of frozen thin lamb chops, these slim little slivers of lamb lend themselves to a low, slow, braise. Sear them in olive oil, add a pack of onion soup mix, and water. Cook for four hours at 275º F with a heavy cover and a sheet of parchment over the meat. Delicious. Jeff Collins


Have You Entered Your Wine, Beers And Spirits Yet? Registrations are arriving already. With the success of last year’s competition, 2015 will be an even greater competition this year! Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to see the categories and enter your wines, beers, and spirits for the 2015 Alberta Beverage Awards.

Registration Deadline June 19 | Judging Takes Place July 13-14-15 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca culinairemagazine.ca/aba

sponsors:


Beyond YYC: Bragg Creek

by CARMEN SOLANA-MARTIN photography by LINDA GARSON

Want to go on a day trip but Banff is a little too far? Why not head to Bragg Creek? You will find many unique restaurants and stops in this charming hamlet just a quick thirtyminute drive from Calgary. The locals have nicknamed the area the “Gateway to Kananaskis”, so be sure to pack a sturdy pair of hiking boots, or load up your car with your bikes, so you can enjoy the nearby world-class West Bragg Creek trails before having a bite to eat. You may not know that Bragg Creek has attracted award-winning chefs, whose cuisine can compete with some of the best restaurateurs in Canmore and Banff, so if the great outdoors is not your thing, you can spend some time shopping before ending your day dining like a gourmet. For those looking for something upscale, you’ll want to visit the Bavarian Inn Restaurant, perfect for a “couples night out” or a family affair. Renowned in Bragg Creek for over twenty years, the Bavarian Inn was purchased by award28


The Italian Farmhouse

winning Chef Josef Wiewer in August 2011, from original owner Chef Charlie Holschuh. The Bavarian Inn, though well known for classic European-inspired Alpine fare, has expanded its menu to include elegant seasonal entrees, such as Berry Glazed Duck Breast, Carmen Creek Bison Flank Steak, and Steelhead Trout. If you like to eat more traditional fare, along with the restaurant’s loyal repeat clientele, you will not be disappointed with the popular Wiener schnitzel and Spätzle. For comfort food,

consider the creamy Pink Borscht and the Maultaschen German-Style Veal Dumplings stuffed with spinach, onions and garlic. In the late 1990s, Wiewer worked at Winnipeg’s famous Italian fine

dining restaurant Amici, and it is this familiarity with both German and Italian cuisines, that has made him a versatile chef. He purchased The Italian Farmhouse Ristorante & Bar (20 Balsam Avenue), known formerly as Madrina’s Ristorante, in August 2014. The romantic restaurant is visually striking, with sparkling chandeliers, luxurious couches, and cute country kitsch paintings and accessories. You can choose between a romantic ambiance and a casual vibe. Try the Linguine ai


Frutti di Mare, loaded with generous portions of scallops, calamari, shrimp, and mussels, made with your choice of a red or white sauce. Delicious appetizers include Polpette, house-made meatballs with tomato sauce, garlic, and padano, and Calamari all’Arrabiata, pan-seared in a spicy roasted red pepper sauce with almonds and arugula. Those who want a casual, and perhaps more affordable, dining experience, should visit Creekers Bistro and Restaurant, located at 20 White Avenue, in the Bragg Creek Village Market. Chef John Czarnojan elevates the warm and casual atmosphere of his elegant eatery with delicious cuisine. Join locals on Friday evenings for the mouth-watering prime rib dinner, one of the best deals in town. No meal is complete without the sweet, tart, and creamy, Key Lime Cheesecake. Sunday brunch with your family at Creekers is well worth the drive. Bragg Creek is known as an artist and musicians’ haven, and local bands jam

30

regularly at the PowderHorn Saloon, a rockin’ country-themed bar that is a favourite for both locals and visitors, and famous for its tasty pub fare as well as live music every Friday night. Try the juicy PowderHorn sirloin burger, loaded with bacon, cheddar cheese, and mushrooms, a deliciously messy delight. Located in the same mall, the family-friendly Mountain Bistro & Pizzeria boasts food made completely from scratch daily. It is worth the wait to sample the delicious barbeque chicken pizza, with Gouda cheese, tangy BBQ sauce, and cilantro.

Gourmet coffee shop, The Cinnamon Spoon, a popular meeting place for locals each morning, is also frequented by city cyclists, who can relax with a cappuccino and light nibble, after a long day spent seeing the natural sights. Try the salmon and lox bagel, the tastiest sandwich on the menu. The Sugar Shake Bakery & More offers homemade lunches as well as scrumptious baked goods, breads, and desserts. Motorcyclists travel from nearby towns Black Diamond and Turner Valley to take home the hearty and yummy chicken pot pies.

If you are an outdoor enthusiast, who likes to dine after working out in nature’s playground, your stay in Bragg Creek will not be complete without a stop at the coffee shops and casual eateries.

For those thinking about a weekend day trip with your kids, visit Frontier Ice Cream, located in the Bragg Creek Shopping Centre. The candy store serves Foothills Creamery ice cream, and the black forest cake option, is


a rich and velvety delight. Open for business from May long weekend, the seasonal Scoops & Snacks, is a short scenic walk west down White Avenue from the Bragg Creek Community Centre. Parents will especially like the kiddy-sized cones, the perfect size for their little ones.

The locals have nicknamed the area the “Gateway to Kananaskis�

As you enjoy your treats, do not forget to walk along the historical Cowboy Trail to visit the iconic Trading Post store, which will officially re-open this summer after an extensive rebuild due to the 2013 flood. If you want to unplug and unwind, discover Bragg Creek, a day trip destination close to home. Carmen Solana-Martin is an M.D. of Foothills, freelance writer, wife, and mom, whose greatest passion is telling stories about people and places that inspire her. Follow her on twitter @solana_martin.


8 Must-Visit Kelowna Tasting Rooms by LINDA GARSON

Last year, USA Today named the Okanagan Valley ‘the world’s second best wine region to visit’, and earlier this year it was one of Wine Enthusiast’s 10 Best Wine Travel Destinations. Tasting and Wine Shop: Up to April 30: Sunday-Thursday 11:00am-5:00pm Friday-Saturday 11:00am-6:00pm From May 1: 10:00am-6:00pm daily. Wine Tasting: $3, refundable with each purchase. Choose from almost 20 wines, there is no limit on the number of wines you can taste.

Halfway down Okanagan Lake, Kelowna boasts over 2,000 hours of sunshine annually, and with mostly mild winters, grapevines grow in abundance around this sunny city. With the onset of travel season, many of us will be visiting the area and looking for memorable tasting experiences, so here are eight tasting rooms well worth a visit, along the Lakeshore Wine Route on the east shores of the lake, and the slopes of Mount Boucherie in West Kelowna, as well as in the city centre.

WEST KELOWNA Mt. Boucherie Mt. Boucherie is the largest familyowned and operated vineyard and estate winery in BC. The tasting room is small and busy, and you may bump into people you know as over 50 percent of visitors are from Alberta. Along with wines to purchase, there’s also a selection of curry sauces, mustards, olive oil, crackers and maple syrup. 32

Recommended: Get adventurous and try some new-to-you grapes that make ideal food wines, such as Blaufrankish and Zweigelt, and enjoy them with your packed lunch on Mt. Boucherie’s picnic deck. 829 Douglas Road, West Kelowna 250-769-8803, 1-877-684-2748 mtboucheriewinery.com Quails’ Gate Estate Winery

Quails’ Gate Estate Winery Quails’ Gate are celebrating 25 years of winemaking, and new this year they are opening the Stewart Family Room for a salon tasting of exclusive wines, some back vintage wines, and some available only at the estate. Tasting and Wine Shop: May 1–June 26, 10:00–7:00pm From June 27, 9:30-8:00pm Tours start in May and last an hour. The cost is $10, but complimentary for those under 19 years. Wine Tasting: This year you can enjoy 2 complimentary tastings, then $5 for the first 2 wines and $10 for a flight of Reserve wines. All tour charges are


waived with a purchase of 2 bottles. You can also indulge in a dessert wine tasting for $5. I’d definitely suggest trying The Sensory Deck tasting, which includes 4 exclusive wines including Collectors’ Series 828 Dijon clone, Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir and Orchard Block Gewürztraminer, along with a sensory plate of chocolate, cheese and nuts to pair. $25 and well worth every cent! Recommended: Be sure to make a reservation at the Old Vines Restaurant, as they are typically fully booked weeks in advance. Enjoy the beautiful vineyard setting, the great wines and the exceptional menu and service, Monday–Sunday Lunch: 11:00–2:30pm Dinner: 5:00-9:00pm. A memorable experience. 3303 Boucherie Road, Kelowna 250-769-4451, 1-800-420-9463 quailsgate.com

Mission Hill Family Estate Mission Hill is known for its 12-storey bell tower, its visually stunning architecture and hilltop views. Keep an eye out for their Concert Series in the outdoor amphitheatre, culinary classes and educational wine seminars. Tasting and Wine Shop: Currently under review, check out their website for the latest tasting dates, times and prices. Until April 30, the 60-minute Heritage Tour, where you

Mission Hill Family Estate

can learn about the origins of the winery and sample 3 award-winning wines in a private tasting salon, is at 12:00pm and 3:00pm. $12 with a $5 voucher towards any purchase. The 60-minute Discovery Tour is at 2:00pm, and takes you through the demonstration vineyard. You’ll sample 4 award-winning wines in a private tasting salon along with a small food pairing, and a copy of their Affinities wine and food pairing chart for $22, with a $5 voucher towards any purchase from Mission Hill’s wellstocked gift shop.

Recommended: Overlooking rows of pinot noir and chardonnay, the Terrace Restaurant was recently recognized by Travel & Leisure magazine as “one of the top five winery restaurants in the world”, and when you visit, you’ll know why! Opening in May, lunch 11:00 -3:00pm, dinner 5:00-9:00pm.

Wine Tasting: If you have opportunity, do try the limited availability ranges Martin’s Lane, and the exceptionally limited production Legacy Collection. If you’re able, as it’s mostly for wine club members, try the Terroir Collection showcasing the Okanagan’s unique microclimates and diversity.

Tantalus Vineyards

1730 Mission Hill Road, Kelowna 250-768-6448, 1-800-957-9911 missionhillwinery.com

LAKESHORE WINE ROUTE

Tantalus’ new state-of-the-art facility was completed five years ago, and is B.C.’s first LEED-certified winery. You’ll be sampling wines in the stunning gallery-style tasting room that features custom handcrafted wooden cabinetry from the native alder, and surrounded by works of art from some of Canada’s most highly acclaimed artists. Tantalus follows a biodynamic calendar, and the landscaping surrounding the winery has been planted with bee-friendly flowers and shrubs. Tasting and Wine Shop: May to October, open daily 10:00-6:00pm. Tours are by appointment only.

Tantalus Vineyards

Wine Tasting: $3 for 3 wines, waived with wine purchase. 33


Recommended: Don’t miss grabbing yourself a jar or two of delicious honey from the beehive partnership with Arlo’s Honey Farm; you can see the hives from the tasting room. I’d advise sampling the very limited production wines of only 100-150 cases of Old Vines Riesling and Tantalus Riesling Lab where every vintage is different. These are wines to be drunk before a meal so you can focus on the wine and not the food - very special.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

5225 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna 250-764-7888, 1-800-989-9463 st-hubertus.bc.ca

1670 DeHart Road, Kelowna 250-764-0078, tantalus.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery B.C.’s most visited winery’s has 3 nature reserves on site, and is a Certified Organic Vineyard. Earning Demeter Biodynamic Certified in 2012, Summerhill’s wine is aged in a scaleddown replica of Egypt’s Great Pyramid, which they believe enhances the quality and clarifies the wine - if a wine has a flaw in it, the flaw is accentuated, and the good qualities of the wine are enhanced. Tasting and Wine Shop: Summerhill wine shop is open for tastings from 10:00am-6:00pm every day, year round. Wine Tours are at 2:00pm on Saturday and Sundays. A $10 fee is charged for tours, which include 3 wine samples, $5 of which is rebated when wine is purchased. St. Hubertus

with 11% Chambourcin, for one of the boldest red wines from the Okanagan (did someone say bison burger with blue cheese?), and the wine that says ‘summer in a glass’ - St Hubertus Chasselas, blended with a little Schoenburger, a delicate and refreshing, crisp wine with hints of lemon zest, perfect with fondue and raclette.

CedarCreek Wine Tasting: $5 for 4 samples, complimentary with any purchase of wine. Recommended: The Sunset Organic Bistro has had a facelift this year, and there’s an all-new menu developed by Executive Chef Jonas Stadtländer. Try one of Summerhill’s award-winning sparkling wines, and look one of only 1,200 numbered bottles of Tiferet, the first non-mevushal (uncooked kosher certified wine) ever produced in Canada, $100. And just sit in the pyramid and be… you’ll be glad you did. 4870 Chute Lake Road Kelowna 250-764-8000, 1-877-764-8007 summerhill.bc.ca

St. Hubertus Originally planted in 1928, sections of the vineyard, along with the winery, burned to the ground in a 2003 wildfire. The Gebert brothers replanted and rebuilt, and using organic techniques, now produce 15 varieties of grapes.

At the far end of the Lakeshore Wine Route, CedarCreek is still only a 20-minute drive from downtown Kelowna. It is one of the pioneering wineries of B.C., and has twice been awarded “Canada’s Winery of the Year”. The gardens are beautifully kept, and as the winery is on a hillside, you are treated to a breath-taking panoramic view. Tasting Room and Wine Shop: Until April 30, 11:00am-5:00pm daily. May 1, 11:00am-7:00pm daily. Private tours include 3 wine samples and a souvenir, $13 per person. Reservations essential. The Vineyard Terrace Restaurant opens May 15 - Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday: 11:00am-4:00pm, Friday and Saturday: 11:00am-7:00pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Tasting Room and Wine Shop: Until April 30, open noon-4:00pm Monday-Saturday. From May 1, open every day 10:00am-5.30pm. Wine Tasting: $4 for 4-5 wines, refundable with wine purchase. Recommended: Try lesser known grapes - Oak Bay Marechal Foch, blended 34

Courtesy CedarCreek Estate Winery, cedarcreek.bc.ca


Sandhill

Wine Tasting: CedarCreek offer a daily complimentary tasting feature, then 4 wines from over 15 choices for $3, waived with purchase. Recommended: Check the website for events such as the Winemaker’s Trail Vineyard Walk and Picnic, the Tuesday evening Summer Sunset Yoga and Wine Reception, and the Canada Day free concert. 5445 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna 778-738-1027, cedarcreek.bc.ca

‘Sandhill Virtual Vineyard Tour’ – this guided tasting leaves you feeling that you have visited each vineyard of the wines you’ll sample. $10 per person. ‘Challenge of the Terrior’ is a guided tasting comparing the same grape grown in two different vineyards, for a Sandhill greater understanding of how terroir can make a differences. Includes 6 wine Open for almost a year, Sandhill’s bright, samples, $10. Other tastings include the post-industrial, new tasting rooms fill a 45-minute ‘Sip ‘n’ Snack’, $15 for 3 wines space in B.C.’s oldest winery location in and 3 snacks; and ‘The Power of Oak’ downtown Kelowna. A barrel-aging room where you’ll taste wines from French for Sandhill’s small-lot wines hosts one Oak and from American oak to see the tasting venue, and two stations featuring difference for yourself. 5 wines, $10. 65-inch touch-screen displays feature virtual tours of the vineyards. Recommended: The gift shop sells Wine Soap, as well Gretsky, Calona Vineyards, Tasting and Wine Shop: Sandhill and Peller Estates Wines. Be Until May 31, Monday-Saturday sure to try the Sandhill Small Lots 9:00am-5:00pm Viognier, Barbera, Sangiovese and Petit Sunday: 9:00am–4:00pm Verdot if available. From June 1, open daily from 9:00am-6:00pm 1125 Richter St, Kelowna 250-762-9144, sandhillwines.ca Wine Tasting: Sandhill tasting $6, Calona tasting $4. No charge with a purchase of wine.

The fuse To RefReshmenT has Been liT This BRewmasTeR’s limiTed ediTion is availaBle foR a limiTed Time

For more information about our deliberately different beers, go to bigrockbeer.com www.bigrockbeer.com #bigrockbeer

@BigRockBrewery

Big Rock Brewery

bigrockbrewery


Have You Filled Your Growler Lately?

by DAVID NUTTALL

Back at the turn of the century, in Beerland, the liquor store run by the Cecil Hotel in downtown Calgary, they used to sell undistinguished, but fresh draft by the litre – provided you brought in your own vessel. You walked up to the tap, got your bottle filled, and paid at the cashier - not unlike filling up a soft drink at a convenience store. Alas, Beerland and the Cecil are no more, but who would have thought they were ahead of their time? Yes, the “Age of the Growler” has arrived in Calgary. Essentially, a Growler is (usually) a 1.89 L glass jug with a screw-on cap used to transport “take-out” draft beer from breweries, brewpubs, and retail stores. The derivation of the name is unknown, but it has been around for a couple of centuries and relates either to the growling sound caused by the release of the CO2 from pails of beer taken home from breweries in the days before modern bottling lines became common, or it was named after the buckets of beer which factory workers were given before their stomachs began to “growl” from hunger. Bottling lines of the 20th century brewery made the growler obsolete, but the rebirth of craft breweries has brought about its resurrection. The modern growler was reintroduced in 1989 at the Otto Brothers Brewery of Wyoming and has exploded in popularity along with the growth of craft beer. New, small breweries are often tight on cash, so a bottling (or canning) line, and associated bottles, cans, labels, caps, cartons, pallets, etc. are an expensive proposition. 36

Since they usually only distribute locally in the beginning, kegs take care of the bar business, and growlers allow customers to take the beer home, clean it themselves, and come back and get it refilled. Growlers get filled straight from a tap, and are then sealed with a twist-cap. While not all beers are the same price, most growlers cost around $20-$25 filled and often include a deposit, but are cheaper upon refilling. A growler and its one-litre cousin, the “howler” will last about 7-10 days unopened, and 2-3 days after the first beer is poured. The other advantage is most places will let you try a small sample of the beer before you buy. Look for more and more locations to add growler stations in 2015. 5 Vines

Where To Find Growlers In Calgary Liquor Depot has the most expansive line of growler stations, with 17 locations currently in the province. Four are in Calgary and they usually rotate their taps at least monthly. Empty growlers are $4, howlers are $3.49 Liquor Depot at Mount Royal 1140 - 17th Avenue SW Liquor Depot at Brentwood 750, 3630 Brentwood Rd. NW Liquor Depot at Woodbine 2525 Woodview Drive SW Liquor Depot at Altador #1 3514 19 St. SW liquorstoresgp.ca 5 Vines, 218 12 Ave. SE Located in the Beltline near Stampede Park, they have 6 taps which rotate weekly. Empty growlers are $8, howlers are $4. 5vines.com Vine Arts, 1310 1 St. SW Currently offering five taps. Growlers cost $10 and taps change frequently. vinearts.ca Vine Arts


17th Ave. Liquor Boutique

Half Hitch Brewing

Village Brewery, 5000 12A St SE Bring in one of their growlers purchased from any liquor store location and they will refill it for $5 off the regular price. villagebrewery.com

17th Ave. Liquor Boutique 519 17th Ave. S.W. This new store opened in December 2014 with a custom-built counter pressure growler station that looks like a mini transporter room from Star Trek. Their eight taps rotate every couple of weeks and will expand to 32 taps by the summer, which will make them the largest station in Calgary. They sell growlers for $5 and fill them for $10-$20 depending on beer. Twitter: @craftbeer2go

Big Rock Brewery 5555 - 76TH Ave. S.E. Calgary’s oldest brewery started a new growler program in 2014. New growlers are $13 and cost $10 to refill. They have four varieties available and change often. bigrockbeer.com Tool Shed Brewing, 801 30 St. N.E. One of Calgary’s new breweries will have their growler station set up in 2015. toolshedbrewing.com Three breweries located near Calgary also have growler programs. Check out Grizzly Paw in Canmore (thegrizzlypaw.com), Fernie Brewing (ferniebrewing.com) and later in 2015, Half Hitch Brewing in Cochrane (halfhitchbrewing.ca), which already

have their growlers made. Now they just need the beer... Wild Rose Tap Room, located in Currie Barracks in building AF23, have a growler that is an animal of a different sort. Literally. The Party Pig is a minikeg, equivalent to 25 bottles, that contains a self-pressurized bladder that inflates as it is filled, giving it a shelf life of four to six weeks. The cost is $55 plus a $40 refundable deposit for a full Pig, which you can either return for the deposit, or buy another for $55. wildrosebrewery.com


Calgary’s Emerging Cocktail Culture by REBECCA DAVIS

Many visitors and residents may not realise that Calgary has a growing cocktail culture. New cocktail bars are opening every year, and many award-winning bartenders already call Calgary home. They are the passionate force that drives not only cocktails, but bars here in the city. Many of these bartenders have competed on an international level with unprecedented talent. With events such as Tales of the Cocktail and Art of the Cocktail, these bartenders have had the opportunity to experience educational seminars about the spirits industry - as well as the incomparable experience of working alongside their peers, who are just as passionate, creative and enthusiastic as they are. What does this mean for Calgary? Madeleine MacDonald from Model

38

Milk, and Calgary’s Mademoiselle Cointreau champion, describes Calgary’s scene as, “Expanding! I’m so thankful to be a part of such a developing industry. More and more people are becoming interested in cocktails. It’s great to be able to educate people and see them enjoy themselves.” So, what’s around the corner for emerging spirits? Vodka. It seems this neutral, odourless spirit has had a bad rap over the last few years. Once reserved for younger, more “inexperienced”


drinkers, more and more producers of premium or ultrapremium vodkas are at the forefront of the cocktail scene. Small batch production, made from specialized, raw ingredients, and exotically sourced water, is the future of vodka. Herbal and bitter liqueurs are making a comeback. Once deemed a ‘cure-all’, herbal liqueurs can contain as many as 130 different barks, roots, herbs, and botanicals, which historically were used to confer medicinal benefit. Amaro, one of the more popular herbal liqueurs today, is full bodied, medicinal, and delicious, especially after a big meal. MacDonald states her passion for these savoury liqueurs, “they give cocktails such a depth of flavour and add a herbal quality that people may not expect”. Next time you are perched at your favourite bar, ask your bartender to whip you up a creation using any of these savoury liqueurs. Homemade ingredients are riding a wave of popularity here in Calgary. Since it is still illegal for spirit infusions to be served at licensed establishments in Alberta, bartenders come up with creative solutions. The best way to do this is through the use of shrubs and syrups. Shrubs, in terms of mixed drinks, are acidulated beverages, a way of preserving fruit mixed with sugar, vinegar, and fruit juice/rinds. Shrub cocktails are becoming more popular at home and abroad, as the acidity of the shrub can be an easy replacement for citrus or even bitters. The concept of making your own syrups is not a new idea, but herbal syrups are gaining popularity. By infusing herbs into syrup, we can extract all that beautiful flavour and infuse our cocktails with it. MacDonald shares that, “As spring draws closer, I always look to seasonal ingredients such as fresh herbs. When the sun is shining I tend to lean towards brighter flavours”. With spring right around the corner perhaps we all could use a little flavour kick? Calgary’s cocktail scene, compared with the rest of Canada and the world, is in a word: growing. Over the last five years we have seen many developments in Calgary. With the creation of the Alberta Chapter of the Canadian Professional Bartenders Association, diverse cocktail competitions, and a general enthusiasm for educating at-home bartenders, the only place to go from here is up. It is up to you, the cocktail aficionado, to determine where Calgary’s cocktail scene will go to in the coming years. That people are getting excited about cocktails, going to try new spots, and asking questions, is driving this industry. Over the next five years, Calgary may very well become a cocktail destination.

A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails. On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.

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The California Dream by ADRIAN BRYKSA AND TOM FIRTH

While we’ve all probably seen those visit California commercials where they surf, ski, and visit the attractions - they always include a shot of wine country, and justifiably so.

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California is one of the great wine regions of the world, and with their unique combination of knowhow, geography, and climate, a far-ranging roster of grapes find their home here. From the classics such as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, to a bevy of grapes rare or virtually unknown.

are $75 per person and both experienced lovers of California wines and neophytes should find something to like from over 350 wines and 100 producers on hand along with a silent auction in support of Calgary Opera. Tickets are available at www.calgaryopera.com

April 24 at the BMO Center, the California Wine Fair returns to Calgary from 7-9pm. Tickets

To get your palate ready for some California flavour, may we suggest a few to get started?

Marimar Estates 2009 Cristina Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley From a single vineyard in the Russian River Valley, the 2009 Cristina from Marimar Estates represents the top expressions of fruit showcasing the terroir or sense of place. A superb example of pinot noir with notes of candied raspberry, clove, orange peel and sandalwood. Framing the experience are age-worthy levels of acid and tannin. (AB) $77 CSPC +726516

Plume 2012 Chardonnay, Napa Valley There are plenty of reasons to enjoy chardonnay, this one in particular is all about lifted, tropical fruits with citrus zinginess and some fairly restrained oak. Easy going and tasty, it also does what all good wine should - make you think about dinner. Grilled chicken with sundried tomatoes…? (TF) $23 CSPC +760247

Domaine Carneros 2006 Le Reve Brut, Carneros Le Reve is the finest offering from sparkling wine producer Domaine Carneros. A true blanc de blanc or 100% chardonnay, Le Reve is luxury from start to finish from its beautiful golden hue, tight bubbles with aromas and flavours of honeysuckle, toasted brioche, lime and apple. Its creamy mouthfeel and lively acid leave the palate begging for the next sip. It’s a fabulous alternative to brut Champagne. (AB) $84 CSPC +752804


Chateau St. Jean 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Safely overcoming a slightly cooler and wetter year, this cab has some serious structure. Blueberry fruits and liquorice root with cedar, spice box and some earth aromas to boot. Tannins are still a little chewy but should settle down further over the next year or so. Foodwise, it’s calling out for a turn when you barbecue next with homemade burgers. (TF) $35 CSPC +758321

Chaos Wines 2010 Mer-Lo, Napa Valley From Calgary wine agent brothers turned negociants, Tim and Owen Mitchell. The duo drew inspiration from vintage motoring with its two-panel label featuring the rear of a 70’s Porsche 911 for this single vineyard Napa Valley merlot. It showcases black cherry, vanilla, sandalwood and sage carried by uplifted acid and polished tannin. Perfect for grilled protein. (AB) $32 CPSC +769530

Klinker Brick 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel, Lodi A very enjoyable, and serious bottle of zinfandel bursting out of the glass with all those brambly, berry fruits, those spicy notes, a little alcohol heat, and a seductive blueberry jam underneath. Old vine zinfandel owes a debt to the white zin craze of your youth allowing these vinous treasures to be enjoyed today. Enjoy with protein-rich dishes that also have a little fat (or cheese). (TF) CSPC +742845 Around $25

Bogle 2012 Petite Syrah Rosé, Clarksburg A current favourite of mine in rosé, showcasing slightly tart berry fruits with a bit of racy spiciness. Quite dry, it’s also got a tiny, tannic kick at the finish, which should just be perfect with grilled salmon, scallops, or chicken stir-fry. Serve cool, but not too cold. (TF) $23 CSPC +750892

Plume 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Lush, jammy fruits with cassis, cherry on the nose, and plenty of spice, oak, cocoa, and cola. Palate is tart and juicy with fruits prominent, but enough backbone to balance the whole thing. A perfect weeknight wine to match up with a meaty sauce, stews, or lasagna. (TF) $29 CSPC +746700

Beringer 2012 Luminus Chardonnay Oak Knoll, Napa Valley For those that love their chardonnays big and glorious. Bursting with honey and mild nutty notes over all those big chardonnay fruits. Silky textures and creamy oak are well balanced by some tight acids making this scream out for rich cuisines. Drinking very well now. (TF) $44 CSPC+826933

Light Horse 2012 Chardonnay California New to the market, Light Horse Chardonnay is a wine from Jamieson Ranch and comes from sourced fruit throughout California. Aged in a combination of stainless steel and oak, its expressive tropical fruit flavours and aromas of pineapple and melon are framed by soft roundness on the palate. While dry, it carries a kiss of sugar making it a versatile pop and pour as the weather outside warms. (AB) $19 CSPC +767910

Light Horse 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, California Value California cab can be tricky to find so when you do, buying a case is never a bad idea. The 2012 Light Horse Cabernet is a tri-county blend of fruit from Napa, Lodi, and Lake County AVAs and is a medium bodied expression with notes of blueberry, black tea, and caramel. This is an everyday cab sauv with its clean, straight forward fruit profile and bright acid that make it terrific on its own or paired with grilled protein. (AB) $20 CSPC +767909

The Winery SF 2008 Speak San Francisco San Francisco is known for HaightAshbury, love-ins and social awareness, which is exactly what The Winery SF label evokes with their 2008 mourvedrebased red blend dubbed Speak. With notes of blackberry, black pepper, cooked meat, coffee, and loam, this bold and brooding red will encourage freedom of expression with its long, spice tinged finish. Primal, aggressive and wild are additional adjectives which just may be how your night ends up after getting into a glass or two of this. (AB) $16 CSPC +749710 41


Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“It was ill-fated to open up a large restaurant in 2008,” says Adam Snelling. “It was a key defining experience in my life… so many hardships, but you become greater at what you do if you struggle.” Growing up in Ottawa, Snelling was bussing in restaurants at fourteen years old, and while studying philosophy at university, worked at Chateau Laurier. “We had so many dignitaries come in, so many politicians, movie stars, musicians and artists, it was an amazing experience”, he says. Having worked the G7 and G20 summits, when asked to work the G8 in Kananaskis, he decided to move. “It was such a different experience for a city boy and I just loved it,” says Snelling. Here he met his wife, and after two years, moved to Calgary and a job serving at Murrieta’s. He was invited to become a manager, but says he was having too much fun 42

and making too much money, so turned the offer down until an accident threw his back out, and he was off work for two months. He accepted a management position and quickly rose through the ranks, achieving his sommelier accreditation too. Shortly afterwards, he was tasked with opening up Parkerhouse, and did well despite the economy, but the recession had its challenges, so he jumped at the opportunity to open the Shore Club in Ottawa’s Westin Hotel for David Aisenstat. But after only three months, he was asked to move to Calgary. “I said absolutely not, I’ve just moved my family here, and I laughed!” he says. But on discovering it was to open up Canada’s second Ki Modern Japanese Restaurant and Bar, he knew it was an opportunity not to be missed. “We’d been trying to start a family for years”, he says, “and were extremely unsuccessful, so we got pregnant in Ottawa and I had to make decisions that would be best for my family. We came back to Calgary in 2011, and opened up this beautiful restaurant, and I think I was the first in Alberta to become a sake sommelier.”

So what bottle is Snelling saving for a special occasion? When he moved to Ottawa he shipped all his wine out, but seven months later when he moved back to Calgary, he came back with a pregnant wife and no wine. “The wine had all frozen in the move and cracked, and nobody would insure it, so we just had to take a risk and ship it,” explains Snelling. “I was in Toronto when it arrived, and my wife called me and said “all the wine’s broken”, and I said “oh well, it’s just stuff”, but I had hundreds of bottles, verticals of Clos des Papes and Domaine du Pegau, Brunello, and houses in Napa and Bordeaux that I love… and I was sitting on this stuff aging it, and never drank it. So I get home and there’s just dead wine everywhere.” Only a handful of bottles survived, luckily including his 2001 Gaia Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino, signed by Gaia Gaja. And when will he open that bottle? “I’m just going to let my wife decide because obviously I sit on things too long and I missed my opportunity to drink so many amazing wines. I want her to be the one to open it,” says Snelling. “It doesn’t need to be a special occasion, but it’s something that I’m really looking forward to.”


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The Vintage Group collection of iconic restaurants have satisďŹ ed Calgary palates for over 18 years. Our locally-owned eateries oer award-winning cuisine and exceptional service. With everything from authentic Southern BBQ to Canadian comfort food, prime steaks, hearty sandwiches, and premium fresh seafood, we take pride in creating a unique and memorable dining experience.

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