Culinaire 3:9 (march 2015) by Culinaire Magazine

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 3 NO.9 :: MARCH 2015

KICKING PUB FARE UP A

NOTCH

STOUT, SOUR, OR GLUTEN-FREE? LET’S TALK ABOUT BEER! Easter Treats | Finding Your Best Cheese | 4 Guinness Cocktails

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

25 20 40

VOLUME 3 / ISSUE #9 MARCH 2015

Features 14

White Gold Cheese Factory Bringing an authentic, old Italian family recipe to a gourmet pizza near you by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Once Around The Block Expect elevated pub classics and family values in this neighbourhood eatery by Dan Clapson

Blended Scotch Whisky The perfect marriage of malt and grain whiskies is still driving the bus and paying the bills by Andrew Ferguson

Departments 25

Find Your Best: Cheese What’s your style of cheese store? by Stephanie Eddy, Laura Lushington, Diana Ng, and Linda Garson

30 To “E” Or Not To “E” It’s no longer the question by Johanne McInnis 32 Sour Beer - So Sweet! A new, and definitely different, flavour experience by BJ Oudman

38 Stout-Hearted Beers Closer to home than Ireland by David Nuttall 40 The Many Faces Of Guinness 4 tasty ways to enjoy this stout by Kathy Jollimore 42

Open That Bottle Jill Belland of City TV’s Breakfast Television by Linda Garson

Salutes and Shout Outs

Ask Culinaire

Book Review

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

Soup Kitchen

18 Step-By-Step: Marshmallows 20 5 Ways To Spice Up Chicken Wings

34 Chug-A-Lug! A country musician’s guide to good gluten-free beer by Matt Masters 36 The Case For Wine Red wines for the end of winter by Tom Firth

On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for the photography, and Chef Trent Bochek at 4th Spot for creating the wonderful nacho platter as well as lending his hands for the photograph too!

Letter From The Editor With St. Patrick’s Day just around the corner, our thoughts are turning to beer and whiskey, and the places that serve them. We’re so lucky to have some excellent watering holes in our city, and many that you may not have discovered yet, kicking classic pub fare up several notches!

Mmm March, we’ve lots to look forward to this month! Winter is almost over (although we really can’t complain this year), and once we’re past my least favourite day of the year - and lost a precious hour’s sleep - then Spring is in the air, hopefully bringing with it a sunny optimism of better things to come.

We’re very excited to open registrations for our inaugural Culinaire Treasure Hunt, taking place on Saturday April 11th in some of the best locations across the city. This is a fun and very rewarding day for the lucky people who take part, with treats, surprises and great prizes to be won! See page 8 for more details, and with limited spots available, register at culinairemagazine.ca to make sure your place is guaranteed! Cheers, Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief

Excerpt from the winner of the Culinaire wine and food pairing lesson at Blink: My night at Blink was great! The food was amazing and they give us some really great advice. With each course we had a wine that paired well by matching and one that paired well being the opposite. This was really useful. I plan on taking my mom back with me. And I really want some more scallops! I really enjoyed myself. Keri P, Calgary From a Culinaire reader: I just wanted to say Thank You for an amazing magazine. I just happened to pick one up at the store and just spent the afternoon going through it and am loving it! I love that it is Calgary based and I can actually visit the coffee shops and stores mentioned in the articles! Keep up the good work. Crystal K, Calgary

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Consulting Publisher/ Keiron Gallagher Advertising: 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Advertising: Naim Malik 403-926-7862 naim@culinairemagazine.ca Advertising: Jeff Collins 403-968-7867 jeff@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media: Mallory Frayn web@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Stephanie Eddy Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Andrea Fulmek Kathy Jollimore Renee Kohlman Ingrid Kuenzel Laura Lushington Matt Masters Johanne McInnis Karen Miller Diana Ng David Nuttall BJ Oudman Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Stephanie Eddy

As the baking columnist for the Globe and Mail, and author of the blog clockworklemon.com, there’s always something new and delicious happening in Stephanie’s kitchen. Her hobbies are entirely food-centric. You’re likely to find her making cheese, fussing over sourdough starters, or working on another new recipe. On the rare occasions that she leaves her kitchen, it’s to hunt down good dim sum, try out tapas, or enjoy old fashioned cocktails.

< Kathy Jollimore

Kathy Jollimore is a blogger, cooking school instructor, food writer, and food stylist in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Blossoming in the woods of Northern Ontario where she began a career as a planting cook, Kathy writes the blog eathalifax.ca and a weekly recipe column in the Chronicle Herald. If she’s not developing a recipe or crossing a restaurant off her list of places to eat, she’s surely instagramming whatever plate’s in front of her.

< Johanne Mcinnis

A freelance writer from Saint John, New Brunswick, Johanne started her whisky journey almost 30 years ago. She is certified in chemical engineering technology, which lends beautifully to her passion, the only female judge for the Canadian Whisky Awards, a panelist on international tastings, and presenter at Scotland’s Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival. Johanne spends her free time lecturing, leading master classes or writing about whisky.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine. ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes... Congratulations Kensington Wine Market! - now for the third year, the only Canadian liquor store in the running for Whisky Magazine’s Icons of Whisky Awards for Whisky Retailer of the Year–Single Outlet! This year they placed 2nd to London’s Berry Brothers & Rudd (who have been in business since 1688), and earned the coveted Highly Commended Award, a huge honour, beating out whisky shops the

And to Pizza 73…

world over. “We were very humbled just to be considered the last few years, and are thrilled about the results this year,” says Scotch expert and store manager, Andrew Ferguson.

…on their 2014 Slices for Smiles Foundation fundraising and their total donation of $375,000 to Children’s Miracle Network. Since 2008, parent company Pizza Pizza Ltd, has raised over $1.65 million to help save and improve the lives of children in communities across Canada. All the funds they have raised locally stay within that community, and are donated to the local Children’s Miracle Network member hospital.

and Shout Outs... 2 new local beers Village Brewery has launched a spicy, peppery black saison ale, Village Undertaker, named after their accountant’s undertaker grandfather. Born 1896 in Denmark, he built a reputation as a sought-after violinist, but became the village undertaker, making $200 a year to feed his family of eleven in the ‘30s. He maintained the church and gravesites, and made sure the church bells always rung for weddings and funerals. And Big Rock’s Fowl Mouth ESB is back for good. Brewmaster Paul Gautreau imported barley, East Kent Goldings, and Fuggles hops from England to see if he could beat the Brits at their own game and brew a better bitter for this limited release last year, and Fowl Mouth proved so popular that it has now joined the ranks of Big Rock’s other signature beers.

$6 million food and beverage expansion for Calgary Winter Club Serving our city for over 50 years, the Calgary Winter Club is one of Western Canada’s most historic, private, member-owned clubs, and soon to be 6

extensively revamped and refurbished. Kicking off with a stunning food and beverage show (including Cirque du Soleil!), the new restaurant, business centre, private dining room, sports lounge, banquet rooms, front entrance and main reception are planned to be completed by November this year.

Our meat-centric city just got more meaty! We welcome two new BBQ restaurants! Edmonton churrascaria, Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, has recently opened its doors on 10 Ave SW. This beautifully appointed, ‘Rodizio’ restaurant offers up a continuous service of some of the most succulent, soft and juicy, beef, chicken, pork and lamb you’ll find in the city, all carved tableside. Warm and delicious, glutenfree, 3-cheese puffs are yours to nibble while you decide which of the many Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

tempting Piranha cocktails to try, or will it be one of their Brazilian wines? Then head to the salad bar where more than fifty house-made sides (and the best pickles!) await. At lunch you’ll be offered six meats, plus more than your fill from the salad bar, and at dinner there’s 11 different meats to indulge in. This is definitely a stretchy pants restaurant – with your suit jacket of course! Eldorado BBQ Lounge is a new independent restaurant on 8 Ave SW, opposite the Globe cinema. Serving breakfast from 7:00am through lunch and dinner, Chef Ashish Damle, latterly of Belgo down the street, is cooking up a southern storm of long, slow BBQ. Most popular is the BBQ platter of inhouse, applewood-smoked pork rib slab, 17-hour hickory-smoked brisket and Texas hot links, with their Tennesseestyle BBQ sauce in baby milk bottles, but the shrimp boil of wild prawn, Andouille, baby red potatoes and corn has a lovely subtle, warming heat that you’ll love too. Look for the awardwinning taxidermy on the walls, and the original artworks of the history of the Americas, giving an updated western saloon feel to the room – and definitely don’t miss the premium wine list!

CREATIVITY EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENT SIDES OF CHEF DUNCAN LY, GOLD MEDALIST, AWARD WINNING CHEF

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Ask Culinaire by RENEE KOHLMAN

How do I get more creative with my Easter Ham?

With Easter right around the corner, baked ham is typically the focal point on the dining room table so it’s only fair to make sure its star shines brightly. Growing up, my mom’s ham and scalloped potatoes was one of my favourite meals. My siblings and I would fight over those crispy end pieces of glistening pork fat, with the sweet, salty meat underneath. We still fight over who gets those coveted end pieces

Mom was old school. She just popped the ham into a roaster and into the oven it went. To finish, she would brush a honey Dijon mustard glaze over it and let it bake until it was golden and crispy, with somewhat charred end pieces. She still does her ham this way and if we are all together around the table, we still fight over who gets those coveted end pieces. Some things never change. But, if you’re looking to get creative with ham, I have a few ideas that might shake up the old ham bone. 8

Ham has such a versatile flavour; it’s easy to personalize this most satisfying pork product. It lends itself wonderfully to glazing, and here is where you can have a little fun. In a small saucepan combine 1 cup (240 mL) apple cider, 2 cinnamon sticks, 6 whole cloves, and 3 whole star anise. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain out the solids, and reserve the liquid. Trim the fat off the ham so only 1 cm remains. Score the fat on the upper half of the ham into a diamond pattern, and stick a whole clove into each diamond’s corner. Roast ham fat side up in a roasting pan for 1¼ hours at 325º F. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup packed brown sugar, ¼ cup (60 mL) maple syrup and 2 Tbs dry mustard. Brush half of this onto the ham, and add the cider mixture to the remaining mustard mixture. Continue to baste the ham periodically for another hour until glossy. Let stand 15 minutes before slicing.

Other ideas for Glazing: ¾ cup marmalade and 1 Tbs curry powder ½ cup (120 mL) honey, 2 Tbs horseradish, 2 Tbs finely chopped fresh thyme ¾ cup (180 mL) hoisin sauce, 2 tsp (10 mL) Sriracha, 1 tsp five spice powder Other ideas for basting liquid: 1 cup (240 mL) pineapple juice, 1 tsp ground allspice (great with marmalade and curry powder) 1 cup (240 mL) orange juice, 1 tsp ground nutmeg (great with honey and horseradish) 1 cup (240 mL) orange juice, 1 Tbs brown sugar (great with hoisin and Sriracha) Renée Kohlman is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon. She writes restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and whips up delicious gluten-free dessert creations at Leyda’s Café. Check out her blog sweetsugarbean.com

Book Reviews A Boat A Whale & A Walrus By Renee Erickson Sasquatch Books $40

This book was intended as a way for Erickson to celebrate her successful restaurants in Seattle; a collection of favourite menus and stories. And, no surprise, it too has been a success. You are truly convinced Erickson is never done learning about food (her own words) and that she truly understands the importance of understanding where the ingredients come from that her teams use to craft their cuisine. Her food reflects the ingredients harvested and grown nearby, but is clearly influenced by classic French in so many ways - the simple local ingredients, their preparation, the sharing and the service. It is important

by KAREN MILLER

to Erickson for food to be eaten with friends, and many of these recipes are meant to be shared. The appetizers are mostly ones prepared ahead with little last minute cooking, so they’ll work out well for any gatherings you’re planning. Erickson outlines her favourite basic cooking techniques and tools in preliminary sections. Then she provides entertaining menus for her memorable occasions throughout the year, showcasing the seasonal aspect of her cooking. Thankfully, the recipes are not ones with long lists of ingredients or difficult techniques and presentations.

Making the Lacinato Kale Gratin (p. 52) for Christmas dinner this year could not have been easier, and so satisfying. I have had the “Simply Sautéed Padron Peppers” as well (p. 182), a perfect example of exquisitely executed simplicity, and cannot wait to try some of her summer tomatoes with vanilla bean salt (p. 197) this summer. This book is a true reflection of how this Seattle restaurateur lives her life and how we all should want to live ours! Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

R e gi stra tions a re n ow open f or our f irst annual Culina ire Treasure Hunt ! You can be one of the lucky adventurers to take part in Culinaire’s inaugural culinary Treasure Hunt on Saturday, April 11th! Starting at 9:00 am, you’ll be given trivia questions from over 30 participating restaurants, markets and stores, to reveal where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too! Will you be a winner of one of the coveted prizes for the people who visit the most locations, revealed at the Wrap Party at 5:00pm at Crossroads Market?

We’re planning a very fun and very rewarding day, so register and reserve your place now at culinairemagazine.ca/contests! Like us at facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine too to keep up with the news, and follow us on Twitter @culinairemag for the latest updates!

: : It’ s g o in g to be a day to rem em ber! :: 9

Chefs' Tips Tricks! Cooking With Beer

story by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Chef Trent Bochek When most people think 4th Spot Kitchen and Bar Chef Trent Bochek about “cooking with What’s the best type of beer to use in alcohol”, I’m willing to cooking? Well that depends who you don’t overpower other ingredients, but bet that wine is the first ask. While some chefs opt for rich, they don’t get lost in the mix either, so deep-flavoured dark brews, making you can satisfy the beer fanatics and beverage that comes to beer the predominant taste in a dish, not-so-keeners all in one dish. mind. Don’t count out others prefer to emphasize the subtle beer though; it can be nuisances of lighter wheat ales. Chef Chef Bochek suggests using beer Trent Bochek at 4th Spot Kitchen and in marinades, along with traditional used in many of the same Bar falls somewhere in between. applications like soups and stews. applications. Whether you Not only does it add a rich, caramel flavour to meaty steaks, it also contains are deglazing a pan to make enzymes that help to break down and Chef Bochek suggests a quick sauce, or simmering tenderize tougher cuts. Just make sure using beer in marinades you leave a few sips in the bottle to it down in a big batch of drink while you are at it! chili, try adding beer to “I like to use middle profiled beers,” Chef Bochek says. Varieties like amber your favourite savoury – ales and nut browns have a medium and sweet – recipes! amount of hops and malt such that they Chef Trent’s Traditional Ale Marinated Steak

Makes about 2 cups (480 mL) of marinade 1 cup (240 mL) Big Rock Traditional Ale ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil ¼ cup (60 mL) lemon juice 1½ Tbs roasted garlic, finely diced 2 tsp sea salt 1 Tbs black pepper 2 bay leaves 1 tsp dry mustard 1 tsp basil 1 tsp oregano 1 tsp thyme

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Place steak in a ziplock bag and put in enough marinade to cover all sides of the steak. Refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour. 10

Chef Dekuysscher’s Guinness Stew

1. Combine flour, salt, pepper and

1 cup (250 mL) canola oil 675 g stew meat (Chef Dekuysscher uses bottom round), cut into large chunks 1 cup flour Pinch cayenne pepper 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper 1 500 mL can Guinness 1 onion, large dice 3 garlic cloves, fine chopped 2 carrots, peeled and cubed 2 L beef stock 1 bay leaf 2 Tbs brown sugar 1 Tbs fresh chopped thyme 1 small can tomato paste 1 large russet potato, peeled and cubed

2. In a large rondeau pot (a wide,

Serves 4-6

Chef Nicole Dekuysscher

Chef Nicole Dekuysscher Oak Tree Tavern When it comes to using beer in her cooking, Chef Nicole Dekuysscher of the Oak Tree Tavern opts for big, bold flavoured stouts and porters like Guinness, such that you really get that hit of beer flavour. Although light, crisp lagers are great for drinking, she points out that they often get lost in the cooking process.

cayenne in a bowl, and dredge the meat in the mixture. heavy-bottomed pot with straight sides and two handles), heat canola oil on medium-high to where it’s almost smoking. Brown dredged meat.

3. Lower heat to medium, add

onions and garlic, and cook until just translucent, about 3 minutes.

4. Stir in flour mixture that you

dredged your meat in. Cook another 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

5. Pour in Guinness and stir another

2 minutes. Add in everything but the potato. Turn heat to low and simmer 2 hours, stirring quite often. It will stick to the bottom a bit because of the flour.

6. Add in potato and cook another

20 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. Chef Dekuysscher usually eats this with nice fresh sourdough.

Darker beers can handle being paired with other strong flavours

On the other hand, darker beers can handle being paired with other strong flavours. Take, for example, Chef Nicole’s fish and chips. It sounds simple enough, but she does things a bit differently to your traditional beerbattered cod. First, she starts with salmon as her fish of choice; perfect given that it is one of the fresher, more “local” varieties of seafood available in Calgary. As for the beer batter, black lager is her go-to brew for making sure that you can taste the beer in the final product. It is all about the beer after all. 11

Chef Mike Provo Swans Cooking with beer isn’t limited to the realm of soups and stews. From appetizers to desserts, Chef Mike Provo of Swans in Inglewood is an advocate of using beer’s versatility to your advantage and adding it to many of your favourite dishes. “I would say I use beer in at least 30% of my recipes here at Swans,” he says.

The key is to use beer in moderation

Beer in tiramisu? Why not? Chef Mike swaps out Amaretto for light beer that has been reduced into a syrup and dunks lady fingers into this instead. The aptly named “beer-amisu” works because the beer flavour is subtle enough that it doesn’t overpower the rest of the dessert.

Chef Provo’s Beer Braised Pork Tenderloin

“The key is to use beer in moderation,” Chef Provo suggests. You can always add more of it, but once you’ve dumped in a whole pint, you can’t take it away. And be sure to start with a beer that you actually like. If you don’t want to drink it, don’t use it. Finally, don’t rush it. You want to cook beer low and slow so that the alcohol dissipates and it doesn’t taste like you are drinking it straight from the glass. Although that is perfectly acceptable as well.

2 yellow onions 1 pork tenderloin 1 carrot 3 stalks of celery 3 cups (720 mL) of Village Blonde beer (any light beer will work) 2 Tbs of minced garlic 1 Tbs salt and pepper 1 cup of crushed corn nuts 1 cup mascarpone cheese 2 Italian sausages, finely chopped 1 sprig of fresh thyme 3 Tbs (45 mL) vegetable oil 6 pieces Butcher’s twine

Chef Mike Provo

Serves 4 as an entrée or 8-10 as an appetizer

Preheat oven to 350º F

1. Cut pork tenderloin down the

middle lengthwise and flatten with a mallet.

3. Place sausage mixture into the

middle of the pork lengthwise, and fold over.

4. Using butcher’s twine, tie pork in 2.5 cm increments.

5. Sear pork in large pan with carrots, celery, and onion for 8 minutes.

6. Deglaze pan with beer, and add

garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

7. Place in roasting pan and bake in the oven for 45 minutes – 1 hour.

8. Remove pork from pan and

strain liquid into a small pot. Reduce until thickened.

9. Slice and serve with sauce, carefully removing the butcher’s twine.

2. Combine mascarpone, crushed corn nuts, and sausage in a bowl and mix.

Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat 12

Be In It To Win It! Registration is now open! Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers, and spirits for the 2015 Alberta Beverage Awards. Registration Deadline June 19 | Judging Takes Place July 13-14-15 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca culinairemagazine.ca/aba

sponsors:

White Gold Cheese Factory:

Bringing Italian Authenticity To A Gourmet Pizza Near You story by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

When Frank Fiorini moved to Calgary from Italy in 2000 to work for WestJet, he loved most everything about his new home, except that for the life of him he couldn’t find a decent fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella) cheese.

Fiorini comes from a family of fine cheese makers with over 300 years of experience, so he knew the difference between authentic fior di latte and mass-produced mozza, and the stuff he was finding in Canada was not up to snuff. So, like any self-respecting, industrious member of a cheese-making family, he decided to start making the good stuff himself. Fiorini’s cousin, Paolo Campanella, came to Calgary to join him in his quest to bring proper Italian fior di latte to Canada, and in 2011 the pair made their first batch of cheese for their newly formed company, the White Gold Cheese Factory. The two used cheese-making techniques that they learned from their family in Bojano, a small town in Southern Italy known almost exclusively for making cheese. This pedigree and commitment to doing things the traditional way gives White Gold an edge over other Canadian mozzarella manufacturers. “I wanted to keep it as original as possible, to keep the product like my grandparents and great-grandparents did it,” Fiorini says. “We have an old family recipe. We don’t want to become the industrial big players of the market.”

Frank Fiorini and Paolo Campanella

While White Gold may not be “big industrial players,” they are definitely a force to be reckoned with in the local fine food industry. They’ve developed a significant following among the customers who pick up their cheeses from local farmers’ markets, Calgary Co-op locations, or specialty shops like Lina’s Italian Market, but their bread and butter is the local restaurant industry. White Gold supplies a large number of restaurants ranging from gourmet pizza places like Una, Without Papers, and the “We have an old family recipe. We don’t want to become the industrial big players of the market” Famosa chain, as well as more eclectic places like Model Milk, Cibo, and Sky 360 at the Calgary Tower. If you’re in a local restaurant eating particularly delicious mozzarella in the form of a Caprese salad or on a premium pizza, more likely than not, you’re eating White Gold.

abandoned in the name of efficiency and cost-effectiveness. White Gold pasteurizes their own milk at lower temperatures than most other cheese makers, so that they can ensure the integrity of their milk. This means it can take three times longer for them to make a kilo of cheese than it takes their competitors. White Gold also only use whole milk and stay away from chemicals or any modified milk ingredients. “I wanted to keep it as original as possible, to keep the product like my grandparents and greatgrandparents did it” “Our cost structure is heavier than others and our margins are lower, but we don’t care. We’re looking at the long run,” Fiorini says. Because they’re big believers in passing on their old school know-how and commitment to quality, Fiorini and Campanella offer free cheese-making classes to anyone who wants to come in and see exactly how they make their cheese. In addition to members of the public, a number of chefs and culinary instructors have taken them up on the offer. Fiorini feels like people won’t really understand the difference in White Gold’s quality unless they’re able to see it first-hand.

done. It’s open door — you come, you learn, you see how real cheese is made.” And while there will always be people who want to just grab a package of cheap, pre-shredded cheese from the grocery store, Fiorini says that Albertans are definitely open to trying new products, especially those made with natural, traditional methods from other countries. Calgarians who frequent good restaurants, famers’ markets, and specialty shops, are demanding unique, high-quality products, and White Gold is more than happy to be part of the growing wave of suppliers who are able to offer it to them. “When I first started, people told me that Alberta is just steak and potatoes, but they’re not! They can enjoy a nice steak and potatoes, but Calgarians are well travelled and well educated and they understand the quality of the product,” he says. “When I first came here 14 years ago, the choices and products you could find were very limited. Now you’re seeing a lot of these new places coming up that are trying to offer quality. Calgary restaurants are not cheap, they want quality.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.

“They don’t pay us and we don’t pay them,” Fiorini says. “We do that just to give people the ability to see what we really do. We don’t have a milk separator, we don’t have any chemicals in the plant — we show them how it’s

There are a few reasons that so many chefs are choosing White Gold over other Italian-style cheeses. First off, the company offers a wide variety of fresh and aged cheeses that can be tricky to find in Canada, ranging from their signature fior di latte to ricotta, braided trecce, and aged caciocavallo. Secondly, they use traditional techniques that many other companies have long 15

Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON

March is the kind of month when we don’t really know if it’s going to be nice or not-so-nice outside. Rain? Sunshine? Snow? That slushy rain-meets-snow hybrid? With that sort of weather gamble, it’s always a good idea to have a few reliable soup recipes in your back pocket. Here are two different bowls of deliciousness that I can guarantee will not let you down. Sausage, Green Bean and Beer Soup Serves 5-6 Total cook time 35 minutes 1 butternut squash, halved, seeds removed 2 Tbs (30 mL) Three Farmers camelina oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 2 Italian sausages, casings removed, 1 cm sliced 1 330 mL bottle beer, good quality lager or pilsner 1 yellow onion, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 3 cups (720 mL) crushed tomatoes 3 cups (720 mL) vegetable broth 2 Tbs (30 mL) half and half 1 cup fresh green beans, 1 cm sliced 2 tsp (10 mL) liquid honey 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp dried oregano salt and pepper

sausage until browned and completely cooked through, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer to paper towel to absorb excess grease and set aside for now.

Preheat oven to 400º F

3. Add a splash of beer to the pot to

1. Place squash on baking sheet, drizzle with camelina oil and bake until tender, approximately 18-20 minutes.

2. Next, heat canola oil in a large pot on medium-high heat and cook the 16

deglaze, followed by the onion and garlic. Cook until softened.

4. Pour remaining beer into pot, along with tomatoes, broth and cream. Let come to boil, reduce to medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

5. Once squash is done roasting, scoop out flesh into pot and use an immersion blender to puree the mixture until it’s very smooth. If it’s too thick, add a little extra broth to thin out to desired consistency.

6. Return cooked sausage to pot,

as well as green beans and remaining spices. Let simmer for 20 minutes and season to taste with salt and pepper before serving.

Cream of Candied Salmon and Dill Serves 4 Total cook time 40 minutes 2½ cups (600 mL) cream 1 yellow onion 2 garlic cloves ¼ cup fresh dill stems 2½ cups (600 mL) chicken broth 1 cup (240 mL) water 2 Tbs unsalted butter 2 Tbs all-purpose flour ½ red onion, thinly sliced 2 Tbs capers ½ cup crumbled goat cheese cup fresh dill, finely chopped ½ cup candied salmon, loosely chopped salt and pepper croutons or crostini for garnish

1. Place cream, onion, garlic and dill stems in a medium pot on low heat. Cover and let steep for 20 minutes.

2. Remove aromatics, add chicken

broth, increase to medium-high heat and let come to a simmer. It’s always a good idea to have a few reliable soup recipes in your back pocket

4. Add sliced red onion, capers, cheese and fresh dill into the pot and stir until well incorporated. Let cook, uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

5. Add candied salmon to the pot 5

minutes before serving, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with croutons and a few dill fronds and serve.

3. In a separate small pot, melt butter and add flour to form a roux. Add to soup pot, stir and liquid should thicken noticeably. Reduce to medium heat.

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside 17

Step By Step:

Home-Made Marshmallows, A Sweet Success! by NATALIE FINDLAY

The fluffy, white pillows that we fondly refer to as marshmallows get a bit of a bad rap. Yes, they are made with lots of sugar, and yes they taste...well...commercial when you pick up a bag at the grocery store.

However, these sweet treats get a taste upgrade when you make them at home. The process is simple and you can have loads of fun creating your own unique flavours, shapes and colours. This simple recipe and the five tips will help you achieve sweet success.

Home-made Marshmallows

Makes approximately 12 larger plus 40 mini marshmallows. 2Â˝ packs gelatine 1 cup (250 mL) cool water, separated into two 375 g sugar 1 cup (250 mL) light corn syrup pinch sea salt 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla extract 50 g icing sugar 25 g cornstarch

1. Pour the gelatine packets and one half of the cool water in the bowl of a standing mixer. Attach the whisk attachment.

2. In a small pot, add the other half

of the cool water, sugar, salt and corn syrup. Turn the burner on high. Insert a candy thermometer.

3. Let sugar mixture come up to a

temperature of 116Âş C, approximately 8 minutes. Turn off burner and remove from heat.

4. Start the mixer on low speed while

you slowly pour the sugar mixture down the side of the bowl. Once all the sugar has been added, turn the mixer to high and mix for approximately 8 minutes or until the marshmallow mixture is lukewarm and still pliable. Lavender marshmallows 18

5. While the mixer is running, spray or

lightly brush vegetable oil around the base and sides of a 20 x 20 cm pan, plus line a baking sheet with wax paper.

6. Combine the cornstarch and icing

sugar, and coat the pan with the icing sugar mixture. Coat the lined baking sheet, reserving some for sprinkling on the top of the marshmallows.

7. Lightly coat a spatula with vegetable oil. Remove the bowl from the mixer and scoop ¾ of the mixture into the pan and smooth the top. Sprinkle the top with the remaining icing sugar mixture.

This recipe is easily halved or doubled

Photograph by Natalie Findlay

Use these five tips to open the door to creativity:

8. Place the remaining mixture into a

piping bag lightly coated with vegetable oil and squeeze out long rows of the marshmallow mixture.

9. Let sit at room temperature,

covered, for 4 hours or overnight.

10. Dust a cutting board with icing

sugar. Invert marshmallows onto the cutting board. Coat a pizza cutter with vegetable oil and cut the marshmallows as per your size preference. Marshmallows can be stored in an airtight container for up to one week Ta da! You have made marshmallows. Technically, you are done. These will be the best marshmallows you have ever had if you’ve been accustomed to eating store-bought marshmallows. Now, this is where even more fun begins; the options are endless as to what you can do with homemade marshmallows.

1: Make your marshmallows different sizes and shapes Simply cut your marshmallows into any size you want, or pipe your marshmallows to make a rounder shape. You can also fill moulds with the marshmallow mixture to form any shape you like (you will have to work fairly quickly as the mixture can start to harden). 2: Decorate them any way you like The ones I did (above) were dipped in coloured chocolate and sprinkles for a Spring Time/Easter theme. You can use the base recipe and create something for any holiday or event by just changing the colour of the chocolate, the sprinkles, or other coatings like toasted coconut or crushed nuts. 3: Flavour Marshmallows are just waiting for flavour additions. Use extracts to create flavours of your choice: mint, coconut, lemon. You can also flavour your sugar for more flavour options. For example, a lavender sugar would perfume the marshmallows with lavender flavour.

4: Colour Not only can you add colours by dipping the marshmallows into chocolate, but you can also add colour directly to the mixing process and create you own colour of marshmallows. If you want a solid colour, then add a colour with about 3 minutes left of mixing time, and let the mixer do the work for you. If you want spots of colour, then add colour after the mixing has finished and gently stir with an oiled spatula to achieve desired effect. 5: Usage Take those delicious, flavoured marshmallows and turn them into every dessert item that asked for marshmallows, to blow people’s taste buds. Smore’s - yum. Rocky Road bars fantastic. Hot chocolate - awesome! Now can you imagine all the endless possibilities open to you to create fun and delicious marshmallows for any occasion? You never know, marshmallows may be the next cupcake.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

Ways to Spice Up Chicken Wings At Home by ANDREA FULMEK

There’s something to be said about a good pub experience: wing nights, cold beer, and the big game on plasma TVs. For most of us pub-goers, these three things, along with good company, make for a perfect evening. However, on those nights where you feel like staying in, why not recreate your favourite pub experience in the comfort of your home? Put some beer on ice, invite over your friends, and turn your kitchen into pub-grub central with these 5 irresistible chicken wing recipes.

Preheat oven to 450°F

Salt and Pepper Wings

2. While wings cook, heat the sesame

Serves 4, Cook time 40 minutes 1.3 Kg chicken wings (~25 chicken wing pieces) 3 tsp salt 4 tsp black pepper 4 tsp (20 mL) sesame oil 4 cloves garlic, minced 4 green onions, diced 1 jalapeno, seeded and diced (optional)

1. Combine salt and pepper. Place wings on a lightly oiled baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake 15 minutes then turn and bake for a further 20-25 minutes, until crispy. oil in a pot and add garlic, onions, and jalapeno (if using). Cook until garlic is fragrant and has browned slightly.

3. Remove wings from oven, place in

a large bowl and toss with the garlic oil until completely coated.

4. Place on a serving platter and spoon any leftover garlic oil over the top.

Honey Lime Sticky Wings Serves 4, Cook time 50 minutes

1.3 Kg chicken wings (~25 chicken wing pieces) 4 Tbs (60 mL) olive oil 3 tsp salt 3 tsp black pepper ½ cup (125 mL) honey 4 Tbs lime zest 4 Tbs (60 mL) lime juice 2 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil 1 tsp red chilli flakes

Preheat oven to 400°F

1. Place wings on a baking sheet

covered with foil. Coat with olive oil, salt and pepper, and roll wings around to ensure they are completely coated. Roast for 30 minutes.

2. Mix together the honey, lime zest,

lime juice, garlic powder, sesame oil, and chilli flakes. Set aside.

3. After 30 minutes, remove wings

from the oven and glaze with a thin layer of honey mixture on both sides. Return to the oven and bake 15 minutes more.

4. Remove from oven and glaze the

top of the wings with the remaining honey. Return to the oven for a further 5 minutes.

Thai Sweet Chilli Wings

2. Coat wings evenly with marinade.

1.3 Kg chicken wings (~25 chicken wing pieces) 2 cups (500 mL) sweet chilli Thai dipping sauce 4 cloves garlic 5 cm fresh ginger, peeled 6 Tbs (90 mL) rice vinegar 1 tsp salt ½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

3. Place a wire rack on a baking sheet

Serves 4, Cook time 60 minutes

Place in the fridge for 1-2 hours.

lined with aluminum foil. Spray the wire rack with cooking spray.

4. Place the wings on the rack and bake for 30 minutes. Keep the remaining marinade in the fridge for basting.

5. Remove wings from oven and brush

Preheat oven to 375°F

both sides with marinade. Cook for an additional 30 minutes.

1. Pulse sweet chilli Thai sauce, garlic,

6. Garnish with fresh cilantro.

ginger, vinegar and salt in a food processor until smooth.

Serves 4, Cook time 30 minutes 1.3 Kg chicken wings (~25 chicken wing pieces) 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 2 tsp salt 2 tsp ground black pepper 4 tsp (20 mL) sesame oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tsp minced ginger 3 cups (750 mL) coconut milk 6 Tbs (90 mL) sriracha 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey 2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce, or tamari 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 limes (1 zested and juiced, 1 cut into wedges for garnish) 4 tsp cornstarch 4 tsp (20 mL) warm water

Preheat oven to 400°F

Serves 4, Cook time 45 minutes 1.3 Kg chicken wings (~25 chicken wing pieces) 3 Tbs (45 mL) peanut butter 3 Tbs (45 mL) soy sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey 1½ cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp red pepper flakes (use 1 tsp for extra heat) ½ cup dry roasted salted peanuts, finely chopped 1½ tsp fresh cilantro, chopped Salt and pepper to taste

Sriracha, Coconut and Chilli Wings

Spicy Peanut Wings

1. Place wings, olive oil, salt and pepper

in a medium bowl and toss together. Roast until golden and crispy, about 2022 minutes.

2. Heat sesame oil in a medium pot

on medium-high heat. Add minced garlic and ginger, and cook until garlic is fragrant (~2 minutes).

3. Add the next 6 ingredients, reduce

Preheat oven to 400°F

1. Place wings on a lightly oiled baking

sheet covered with foil. Salt and pepper them lightly, and bake for 25-30 minutes until just beginning to brown.

2. While wings are baking, combine

peanut butter, soy sauce, honey, garlic, and pepper flakes in a small pot. Heat over low heat, stirring until well blended.

to medium heat and let simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Remove wings from oven and pour

4. Whisk together cornstarch and

4. Return wings to the oven for 10-15

water and add this mixture to the pot. Keep warm on stove until wings are cooked.

5. Once slightly cooled, transfer wings to a medium bowl, cover with coconut chilli sauce and toss until well coated.

peanut sauce generously over the wings. minutes until the sauce is set.

5. Sprinkle with chopped peanuts and cilantro.

Recruiter by day, writer and foodie by night, Andrea finds nothing more exciting than grocery shopping and baking with chocolate. If dessert could be eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner, she would be one happy camper. 21

Once Around The Block:

Good Food And Family Values by DAN CLAPSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Neighbourhood eateries are always best when they become hubs for people in the area to come together, eat, drink, and have good conversation. Downtown restaurants and pubs don’t often achieve that sort of atmosphere, but once you venture a little further from the city’s core, you’ll find places that marry good quality food and neighbourly experience, like – The Block. 22

Husband and wife team, Kai and Norma Jean Salimäki, met years ago when Catch first opened, and since then have helped many well-known establishments in Calgary open their doors, including Vin Room and Notable. After more than a decade of watching other restaurateurs and chefs succeed with their own endeavours, they - along with Kai’s brother, Timo Salimäki decided it was time to stake their claim

in the restaurant world. “I felt it was time that we could. After opening many restaurants for a lot of other people, this was going to be a great family venture.” explains Kai Salimäki. “I got to have the opportunity to have my wife working with me and my brother working with me.” The Block is on 4th Street and 23rd Avenue NW, across the street from Calgary’s oldest McDonald’s. It’s a short drive from downtown, which may leave it off some people’s radars, but when you ask the Salimäkis, you’ll find they’re more than happy here. “It was actually this specific location that made it happen for us,” says Norma Jean. “After working at Notable and seeing other restaurants succeed on the ‘outskirts’ of downtown, we felt the community here and the long-standing clientele in the area... was perfect.” On one side of the restaurant, the lounge is set up with a long bar, high-top tables, and screens to watch sports. It’s a fitting place to meet for casual drinks with friends, and share snacks like The Block’s signature roasted cauliflower croquettes or the house-made salmon gravlax on rye crisps. On the restaurant side, it’s a completely different vibe. There’s a deep ocean blue colour on the walls, banquet seating wrapped around the room, and wood

Kai and Norma Jean Salimäki

accents, like a refinished barn door hanging just behind the long communal table on which “The Block” is branded into the wood. Norma Jean worked closely with a designer to bring a comfortable mood to the space.

Approachable home-style food, but with a chef’s touch

“I brought the designer to all of the restaurants that I felt were sultry, but also felt at home in,” she explains. “That’s why she mixed the old wood-feel with the stormy ocean colours, and we have that seashell sort of print on the chairs. To me, I think the guest should

always feel like the prettiest thing in the room and our interior does that. It’s a back drop for people to look and feel good in here.” The Block’s menu takes comfort foods and pub classics, and elevates them to another level. Approachable home-style food, but with a chef’s touch. And as Norma Jean is quite the wine expert, the restaurant also boasts a surprisingly extensive wine list, which any of the service staff will be happy to help you pair alongside your food. The sweet potato perogies are made daily and served with crème fraîche, fried sage and brown butter that just might be better than the ones your grandma makes. Then there’s a tuna melt that’s anything but typical, made with confit albacore tuna topped with aged cheddar, tomato and a fennel slaw. Aside from comforting plates, burgers, pastas et al, you’ll find odes to East

Coast cuisine on Chef Salimäki’s menu with his Halifax donair - he’ll tell you that a good sweet sauce is the key and the lobster pot pie. It’s big bowl of maritime flavours with poached lobster, cod and vegetables in shellfish gravy, topped off with golden puff pastry. “You’ll find a lot of tie-ins with the maritimes here! My dad is a lobster fisherman,” says the chef. Chatting with the Salamäkis, it’s easy to tell that they are big on their family heritage, and that filters into their food here as well. For example, the salmon gravlax, butterscotch pie and the chocolate biscuit cake are all inspired by recipes that have been passed down in the family for generations. “As an 18 year old, they gave me this family cookbook and said, ‘Here you go, here are all of the recipes.’ It’s been in every kitchen of mine since I started working in the industry. The book has always been a big inspiration for me,” says the chef.

It’s easy to tell that they are big on their family heritage, and that filters into their food here as well

With the husband leading the kitchen and the wife running the front of house alongside brother, Timo, you might be surprised to find out that the Salamäkis have three little ones at home. Clearly, there’s a lot of juggling to do between home-life and the restaurant, but it’s that family connection that fuels the business for them. “It is difficult,” admits Norma Jean when asked how they balance raising a family and running The Block. “But seriously, I feel like I want to show people that they can have a passionate career in this industry and have the balance. At the end of the day, it’s dinner and drinks. It’s not [life or death] here.” 24

Chocolate Biscuit Cake

Serves 4 Total cook time 10 minutes, plus 4 hours to set

1. In a medium pan over medium heat,

Here is a dessert recipe from the Salimäki family cookbook. This recipe was used by grandparents and other family members in the 1900s when the cupboards were almost empty, but everyone was still craving something sweet.

2. Temper the eggs by stirring in a

1 cup unsalted butter 1 cup brown sugar 2 eggs, beaten lightly 2 Tbs cocoa powder 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla 1-2 packets of tea biscuits, Arrowroot or similar

and place in a large bowl. Pour contents of pot into the bowl and stir until incorporated.

melt butter and sugar together. Stir in the cocoa and vanilla.

couple of spoons of the butter mixture. Once tempered, add the rest of the eggs to pot, stir well and let mixture simmer for 1 minute.

3. Break tea biscuits into small pieces

4. Transfer cake batter into a prepared

cake pan and place in the refrigerator to cool and set, at least 4 hours.

Win a cool cocktail class at The Block for you and a friend! Yes, you can win a chance to learn how to make cool cocktails inspired by Salimaki family dessert recipes with The Block’s cocktail expert, Timo Salimaki! For your chance to win this exciting prize, simply go to culinairemagazine.ca/contests and let us know your favourite family recipe and how you tweak it to make it your own.

Good luck, we can’t wait to hear from you!

Find Your Best: Cheese by STEPHANIE EDDY, LAURA LUSHINGTON, DIANA NG AND LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Unlike tomatoes, raspberries, or asparagus (damn those vegetables and their ridiculously short growing season), beautiful cheeses can be found around the city year-round. Whether you’re a herbed goat cheese kind of guy, a grizzly gouda kind of gal, or a Dragon’s Breath blue cheese type of, um, dragon (?), here’s a little quiz you can take to find out which local cheese purveyor is a good match for you. 1. The most common thing I put cheese in at home is… a) a grilled sandwich. b) a cheese platter for parties. c) my mouth. 2. I’d describe my cheese knowledge as… a) marble. Also known as extremely minimal. b) quite extensive, bring on the exotic names! c) moderate, but I probably couldn’t tell you the difference between brie and camembert. 3. When I purchase cheese, I’m usually… a) looking for something pretty specific. b) out grocery shopping. c) willing to spend a decent amount of money on a quality product.

4. If you open my fridge, you’ll find… a) a few blocks of cheese, some with bites out of them. b) different kid-friendly cheeses for my kids. c) an entire shelf dedicated to artisan fromage. 5. To find a particular kind of cheese, I usually head to… a) the grocery store. b) a specialty shop that’s close to my house. c) a place with a top-notch expert reputation. 6. The prices of certain types of cheese… a) make me reserve some purchases for special occasions. b) influence what types I’m buying. c) are no option if they’re high quality.

7. The pungent odour of certain cheeses… a) can be unappealing, but I’ll try anything once. b) get me excited. c) take getting used to, but once you’re past that road block, the sky’s the limit! 8. When it comes to blue cheese I… a) am indifferent, it’s not something I crave. b) generally run in the other direction when I smell it. c) can’t get enough of it. The more intense, the better!

Peasant Cheesery (Mostly As)

Conveniently located next to Kensington Wine Market, Peasant Cheese is a haven for cheese lovers with its carefully curated cheese selection and array of custom charcuterie boards. Whether you’re planning a full-on cheese tasting affair or just looking for a slice of something delicious, Peasant Cheese has you covered. Grab a wheel of their buttery smooth Saint André or a nutty Gruyere 1655 and complement it with the sharp, strong flavours of the award winning Shropshire Blue. The knowledgeable staff is happy to help you navigate the 80+ varieties on their cheese list, so you’ll be sure to get the most of out your visit.

Springbank Cheese Co. (Mostly Bs)

Owned and operated by husband and wife team Adrian and Carie Lee Watters, Willow Park’s Springbank Cheese Company is a haven for those looking to explore the world of cheese. This southwest Calgary location opened in 2006 as the company’s first independently owned store after the Watters built a relationship with Springbank Cheese’s founding Hemsworth family. Armed with previous food and beverage experience, the Watters embarked on a journey to become experts on cheeses from around the world.

through their collection of cheese, learning the origins of each as you go – perfect for a date night. If you can’t spare an evening but don’t want to miss out, simply sign up for their cheese club and receive three of their choice cheeses, crackers, and garnishes each month, delivered right to your door. There’s even a cheese social club with events and discounts for members, proving that Peasant Cheese is more than just a cheese shop; it’s a full service cheese community.

Want to expand your cheese knowledge? Peasant Cheese offers classes that let you nibble your way

1249 Kensington Road Northwest Calgary, 587-353-3599 peasantcheese.com, @peasantinc

Today, the Watters, along with the rest of the Springbank “cheeseheads.” can lead you through the store’s selection of over 350 varieties to find the perfect cheese for you. Taste test cheeses from across the globe including store favourites from countries such as Spain, France and England. But, if you can’t find that delicious cheese you fell in love with on your travels, don’t hesitate to ask — they’ll try to import it for you!

Oh, and you might want to ask them for a wine pairing too as they often partner with their next door neighbour, Willow Park Wine & Spirits. Willow Park Village #304 - 10816 Macleod Trail South Calgary, 403-225-6040 springbankcheese.ca

JBFC smoke their own Castelvetrano olives, make their own terrines – choose from Duck, Pistachio and Cherry; Pork, Brandy and Green Peppercorn; Guinea Hen, Truffle and Pistachio, and Paté de Campagne - and their own line of jellies, jams, and tapenade cheese partners.

Janice Beaton Fine Cheese (Mostly Cs)

Where in Calgary can you go to buy cheese and stay to enjoy one the most acclaimed mac and cheese in the city with a glass of wine or beer? Or an ooey gooey sandwich from the grilled cheese bar? Or buy them to take away? Over the last fifteen years, Janice Beaton Fine Cheese (JBFC) has grown to fill every cheese lover’s needs – and a lot that you didn’t know you needed, but become essential once you’ve tried them. Photograph courtesy Calgary Co-op

Pick up a freshly prepared fondue mix to make at home, and if you’ve run out of fuel for it, don’t worry! JBFC sell pots and fuel too. And fresh-baked crusty baguette, as well as rustic flatbreads, and house-made crackers. Oh, and they have twenty-two Canadian cheeses and over fifty cheeses from around the world to choose from too. Many are exclusives, such as Dragon’s Breath from Nova Scotia, Gunn’s Hill artisan cheese from Woodstock, Ontario, and Cow’s Creamery from PEI, all cut to order by passionate and knowledgeable staff who know the pedigree and love to

Calgary Co-op

(Mix of As, Bs and Cs) There’s something stinky at the Midtown Co-op. Thankfully, it’s not its fresh produce, seafood or meats, but its large selection of domestic and international cheeses. There are plenty of specialty shops in the city but Midtown Co-op has over 150 varieties at its counter, from small local suppliers like Noble Meadows Farms, Alberta Cheese and White Gold Cheese Factory to large national suppliers, like Agropur. Create the perfect cheese board with perennial favourites like Parmigiano Reggiano, cave-aged Gruyere, applewood-smoked cheddar and soft-ripened Brie or Camembert. Alternatively, you can venture into more unusual premium options like Pont L’Eveque (uncooked, unpressed brie-like cow’s milk cheese) from Normandy, Etorki (a gouda-like pasteurised sheep’s milk cheese) from the Pyrenees, Beaufort from the French Savoy Alps, Brie de Meaux from France, Beemster

share the stories behind it and how to prepare it; there’s no pre-cut cryovac packages here. 1017 – 16th Avenue S.W. Calgary 403-229-0900 jbfinecheese.com, @JBFCandFARM Vasklass from the Netherlands, sharp aged Italian Auricchio provolone, or a Canadian cloth-bound farmhouse cheddar from PEI. Don’t mistake the wide selection for being indiscriminate though. At Calgary Co-op’s head office, deli operations director Ken Chalmers only chooses the best, paying close attention to quality, food trends, seasonality and customer feedback. Can’t make up your mind about what cheeses to pick up? Give the cheese of the month a try to discover something new. Midtown Market 1130 - 11th Avenue SW, Calgary 403-299-4257 calgarycoop.com, @CalgaryCoop

Blended Scotch Whisky: A Tale Of The Big And The Small by ANDREW FERGUSON

Single Malt Scotch Whisky’s rise as a drinks category has been dramatic since it was first introduced to the world by the likes of Glenfiddich, Macallan, Glenlivet and Bowmore in the 1960s. Over the last two decades, interest in, and demand for, single malts have been growing exponentially. But even with this dramatic rise, single malts only account for a tenth of global Scotch whisky sales. Blended Scotch whisky is still driving the bus, and paying the bills. Prior to 1860, blended Scotch whisky was illegal. Almost all Scotch whisky produced prior to that time by the hundreds of small distilleries was malt whisky, much of it heavily peated and sold locally. The quality of the whisky varied enormously, so when a market emerged south of the border in England, techniques were introduced to soften the whiskies and achieve a degree of consistency from batch to batch.

Malt and grain whiskies were carefully married, and blended whisky was born. In 1865 a Kilmarnock grocer, John Walker & Sons, introduced their first blended Scotch whisky, Walker’s Old Blended Scotch whisky is still driving the bus, and paying the bills

Highland. In 1870 Johnny Walker introduced its trademark square bottle, which allowed for smaller more tightly packed cases and fewer broken bottles. They also applied their label at a 24º

angle, which allowed for large text (both practices continue to this day). The brand had grown considerably when it was rebranded Johnny Walker Whisky in 1908. Johnny Walker’s Red Label and Black Label expressions are the two best-selling Scotch whiskies in the world. Introduced in the 1990s, Johnnie Walker Blue Label has long reigned as one of the world’s finest blended whiskies. If one were to cast their eyes on Scotland’s master whisky blenders today in search of a “Maverick”, they’d be hard-pressed to do better than John Glaser. The Minnesotan moved

to Europe in the 1990s in the hope of entering the wine trade. Instead he found himself working as a blender at Diageo for Johnny Walker. Glaser served for a number of years as a blender and then marketing director at Johnnie Walker, before approaching them with a proposal to create a boutique blended whisky company under the Johnny Walker umbrella. He was turned down but undaunted, parted amicably and struck out on his own.

Prior to 1860, blended Scotch whisky was illegal

Compass Box Whisky was founded in 2000 with an eye to crafting smallbatch blended Scotch whiskies. Very quickly the company won accolades from critics and customers alike for its exciting new blends. The firm produces three styles of blended Scotch whisky: Blended, Blended Malt, and Blended Grain. Traditional blends, like Johnny Walker, Compass Box’s Asyla and the others mentioned above, consist of malt and grain whiskies. A Blended Malt, such as Compass Box’s Peat Monster or Spice Tree, consists only of malts blended together from different distilleries. Similarly, a Blended Grain only blends different grains, a style for which Compass Box is uniquely the only regular producer with their Hedonism expression. Compass Box also caught the attention of the industry’s conservative old guard, who weren’t happy with the new techniques and innovations they introduced. The first incarnation of the Spice Tree was particularly provocative, as it involved the introduction of French oak inner staves to ex-bourbon American oak barrels. Glaser’s idea was to introduce spicy elements of French oak to the base vanilla, cream and honey from American oak. The whisky was a hit with everyone but the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), the industry’s governing body, who declared

it illegal. Undaunted, Glaser and his team regrouped and came up with the idea of putting French oak heads on American oak barrels, something the industry could not prove had never been done before, and so the whisky lives on. Compass Box is to the blended scotch industry as David is to Goliath, and they have not shied from occasionally poking the giant in the eye. When the SWA had a law passed in the EU recategorizing Vatted and Pure Malts as Blended Malts, it was in part trying to dull the sting of companies like Compass Box. At midnight on November 22, 2011, the last possible day that a Scotch whisky created by blending single malts could be labelled a Vatted Malt, Compass Box released an iconic limited edition whisky, The Last Vatted Malt. It wasn’t the end of boutique blending firms like Compass Box, but merely the end of the beginning.

Johnny Walker Black Label 12 Year

A very well respected blend, considering it is the second best selling by volume in the world! Creamy with firm smoke, dark fruits and chocolate. $45

Johnny Walker Gold Reserve

A celebration of the art of blending, this whisky has been crafted without the restraints of age statements. Soft, smooth and honeyed with some Demerara sugars, subtle spice and even a hint of beeswax. $80

Johnny Walker Platinum

Johnnie Walker went deep into their archives for the inspiration to create Platinum, with a base of 18 year old whiskies. Starts very delicate and floral with candied fruit and soft leather before darker elements of peat, licorice and clove take over. $153

Compass Box Great King Street Artists Blend One of the best bargain whiskies in Alberta, the Great King Street is all about elegance and showcasing the blender’s art. Very creamy, soft and floral with white fruits. $50

Compass Box Spice Tree

The whisky that cemented Compass Box’s innovative bad boy street cred, highlights the core American oak notes of vanilla and white fruits with decadent hot spices like ginger, cinnamon and cardamom. $64

Compass Box Peat Monster

Originally created for Park Avenue Liquors in New York, the Peat Monster has been getting peatier over the years through the addition of Laphroaig, though it has retained its creamy toast base. $60

Over the last decade, Andrew has earned a reputation as one of Canada’s most trusted whisky experts, as well as organizing and guiding premium whisky tours in Scotland (fergusonswhiskytours.com). 29

To “E” Or Not To “E”

Is No Longer The Question by JOHANNE MCINNIS

People from all over the world celebrate Saint Patrick’s Day-whether they are Irish or not. A day devoted to honouring Irish culture by wearing green, holding parades, and eating corned beef, soda bread, and of course – potatoes. In pubs and at parties everywhere you’ll find individuals enjoying pints of green beer or a couple of wee drams. This tradition goes back hundreds of years to a time when Irish Catholics were required to refrain from drinking during Lent, with the exception of March 17th when they were allowed to break from that fast and drink to their heart’s content. Ireland has two national drinks: Stout and whiskey. What you may also not know is that Irish whiskey was indeed considered a far superior spirit for most of its history. As far back as the 17th century, the upper crust of Europe was enjoying Irish whiskey in their glasses. Soon after the English Malt Tax of 1725, Irish whisky-makers figured out they would pay much less tax by adding un-malted barley to their process and as a result, Single Pot Style, the most recognizable type of Irish Whisky, was born. This in turn produced the largest boom of distilleries ever created in 30

Ireland – over 1000, most of which were illegal. Irish whisky was riding high on the wave of prosperity continuing through the total abstinence movement of 1838 as well as the Great Famine. In the following years, mass emigration

catapulted this whisky to the most popular spirit in the world. The largest export market of the day was the United States, so to further distinguish their superior product from that of much poorer quality Scotch whisky, the letter “e” was introduced by Irish whiskey makers.

By the late 1800’s, Scotch makers had introduced blended whiskies. By the late 1940’s, Ireland had been subjected to 5 different wars, all of which imposed immense export restrictions. To make matters worse, Prohibition, as well as the Great Depression, had hit the United States. The nail in the coffin came when GIs stationed in the UK were going home with their newly acquired bottles of blended scotch, so Irish whiskey was all but ancient history. By 1980 only 2 distilleries remained in Ireland. But like the liquid itself, trends are fluid. New buyers/players came to the table, considerably larger spirit companies purchased and promoted brands like Bushmills, and distillers became more selective with cask choices. It has taken almost 25 years, but Irish whiskey has been the leader in product growth for the past five. Jameson, one of the only distilleries to survive the massive plummet, sold less than 500,000 cases worldwide in 1982, whereas in 2013 the number was 15 million. Although it may never surpass Scotch sales again, Irish whiskey is back in the glasses of whisky enthusiasts around the globe. In 2015, Alberta is experiencing the most diversified selection of Irish whiskies ever seen. If you are planning on raising a dram on the 17th or are looking to expand your whiskey horizons, some recommendations include:

Under $50

Over $100

2 Gingers – A fairly new but impressive mixing whiskey, around $35 CSPC +762805

Jameson 18 Limited Reserve – Exceptionally well balanced whiskey that is spicy and complex, Around $120 CSPC +600487

Bushmills Blackbush – Very smooth sipper that’s easy to enjoy with a few ice cubes, $33 CSPC+61374 Writer’s Tears – Voted best new Irish whiskey by several writers including myself. Excellent value for money and staple for a whisky collection, $43 CSPC +742019

Under $100 Connemara Peated Irish Single Malt – Unlike its Scottish cousins, a rarity amongst the Irish family. Flavours of smoke and earthy undertones are quite unique and very tasty, $65 CSPC +695445 Knappogue Castle 1991 – Extremely well-priced 17 year old Single Malt Irish Whiskey to share with friends, $72 CSPC +739224 Greenspot – One of the best single pot still whiskies to come out of Ireland in the last 5 years. Full bodied & delicious. Highly recommend this one, $78 CSPC+748121

Bushmills 21 – Without a doubt a showstopper Irish whiskey. Matured in ex-bourbon and sherry casks then finished in Madeira, $183 CSPC +728368

In 2015, Alberta is experiencing the most diversified selection of Irish whiskies ever seen

Midleton Very Rare – With only 50 casks released every year this is a superb whiskey to savour, $170 CSPC +360180 Teeling Silver Reserve 21 – Matured in ex-bourbon and then finished in Sauternes wine casks, this is a one of a kind Irish whiskey that has no equal $225 CSPC +759384

Johanne McInnis is a freelance writer from Saint John, New Brunswick. She is the only female judge for the Canadian Whisky Awards, a panelist on international tastings and a presenter at the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival in Scotland. 31

Sour Beer - So Sweet! by BJ OUDMAN

Offer up a sour beer and more often than not, you will be met by polite decline or a blank expression. My first exposure was while visiting a brewery, enjoying a beer with friends, and watching the brew master work his magic over the mash tun. He marched over to our table wearing galoshes and overalls, carrying a plastic pitcher filled with a frothy, cloudy liquid, and proudly offered us a sample of his creation. His excitement was halted abruptly in its tracks by our reaction - a pucker, a grimace, and a forced swallow. But, then... an “aha” moment-what was this new flavour experience? Not quite wine, not quite beer - it piqued my interest. What exactly is a sour beer? Simply put, a beer style with an intentional, 32

tart taste. A sour begins its life cycle the same as any other beer, with the base ingredients of water, wheat, malted barley, and hops. After the unfermented beer, called wort, is mashed and boiled, it is chilled down to a more hospitable temperature so that yeast can begin its alcohol-producing duties.

Sours are challenging, expensive, and risky to make

Open air fermentation and barrelaging allow wild yeasts that are present everywhere in the environment to react naturally with the mash, or more practically, it is prompted by inoculation with bacteria such as lactobacillus (the same that produces yogurt), brettanomyces, or pediococcus.

It can also be produced by tossing in fruit, exemplified by the kriek style. This genre of beers includes lambics, geuzes, Flemish ales, saisons, gose, and farmhouse ales. Not truly sour, they contain a range of acidic astringency based on method and blending techniques. Sours are challenging, expensive, and risky to make. While most ales take two to three weeks to produce, sours can take two to three years. When space is at a premium, having this brew sit around, unsure if it will ever evolve into something delicious is a gamble. The nature of this brewing process has kept it at home in Belgium for much of history but the practise has seen a renaissance in North American breweries because of not only more adventurous brewers, but conscientious consumers continuing to demand more sustainable, natural, and locally brewed

aged in oak barrels for a year, and Tart of Darkness ($23), a sour style stout full of cherries and dark chocolate. All 750 ml.

products. There is an argument that this beer style separates art from industry, and the enthusiast from those who just want a thirst quencher. So why drink something you will likely not love at first sip? One reason is sour’s ability to pair with food. Their natural acidity works with a range of ingredients and cuts through fat. The second reason is ageability. Instead of a “best by” date on the bottle, don’t be surprised to see a “drink after” date. Many of these bottles can be aged for years, and will gain complexity and structure in the bottle. A third is price point; expensive by beer standards, it is a relative bargain in the wine world. Instead of a “best by” date on the bottle, don’t be surprised to see a “drink after” date Sours are difficult to source in Calgary but ask your favourite store to point you in the right direction. Lindemans Lambic comes in at least four flavours - framboise, cassis, peche or pomme - and two sizes - $7/330 ml or $12/750 ml.

of their products, but look for Rose de Gambrinus, a fruity lambic, Iris, made with fresh hops or St Lamvinus, with Bordeaux grapes added to the lambic. $31-$34/750 ml.

Two other Belgian products are 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze, a blend of one, two and three year old lambics refermented in bottle for one year, and Oud Beersel, with blended lambics from a number of producers and suitably called Mega Blend. Priced from $12 to $40/bottle.

New Belgium from Colorado has been expanding into our market with more than its regular labels. Their Lips of Faith series offer Transaltantique Kriek and La Folie in 750 ml bottles for $18.99.

One Canadian option is Ontario’s Nickel Brook brewery. Look for their Uber Berliner Weisse ($13.50), a sour wheat beer and Winey Bastard ($19), an imperial stout aged in pinot noir barrels.

Duchesse de Bourgogne, produced by Brouwerij Verhaeghe is a Flemish red ale. With a taste profile of cherries and plums crossed with crab apples, it is sweet and sour in a bottle. $6/330 ml.

The Cantillon Brewery was founded in 1900 and little has changed, offering still only lambics, krieks, geuze and faro styles. You will be able to find a variety

The Bruery from California produces a variety of sours, including Hottenroth Berliner Weisse ($12), Sour in the Rye ($21), containing 40% rye malt and

Venture out and search for those elusive bottles - sour beer may initially be a bewildering anathema to your taste buds, but expect to be fascinated by the craft. BJ Oudman is a physical therapist with a passion for food and wine. She travels the world when she has time between consulting in both physical therapy and wine. 33

Chug-A-Lug!

A Country Musician’s Guide To Good Gluten Free Beer by MATT MASTERS

When my doctor told me I had celiac disease, I had to quit beer cold turkey… It was a tough go at first. I missed beer and the first few gluten-free beers I bought, I hated. They were too expensive and tasted more like some freaky, flat, beer-flavoured alcohol beverage. Too sweet, too syrupy, and just all-around “wrong”. Barley, wheat, rye, spelt - they all have a particular protein in their biological make-up called gluten. And, I can’t digest it in any form. Beer can be made from a wide variety of ingredients, but the presence of any gluten can keep an

otherwise safe brand out of my reach. People often ask me if I can drink Corona or Budweiser because they are wheat free, but sadly, they both contain barley malt, and are therefore not gluten-free. The norm for a beer to be classified as gluten-free is somewhere between 6 and 20 parts per million (ppm). When it comes to how gluten-free beer is made, there isn’t as big a difference in the process as there is in ingredients used. All the traditional ingredients of

a tasty brew have to be accounted for, and a number of replacements come into play except for hops, as they are naturally gluten-free. Some yeasts are gluten-free, some aren’t. Rye is often substituted for buckwheat,

The first few gluten-free beers I bought, I hated

barley switched for sorghum and wheat swapped out for millet. Brown rice syrup and molasses are among other potential ingredients and as you can imagine, these fundamental changes dramatically impact the flavour, the mouth feel and the all-round experience of having a tasty beer. Over the past half-decade things have been changing, and we’re actually quite lucky that in the Calgary area there are over a dozen gluten-free beers available in stores around town. Increasingly, the good ones are popping up at pubs, clubs, and restaurants in the know. As well, prices of gluten-free beer have been dropping steadily as the number of brands has risen. A 6-pack that might have cost $22 in 2009 is $16 now, and the continued growth of the community should keep that trend going.

At the top of the pack is Estrella Daura ($15 for a 4 pack). This Spanish beer has been winning international accolades since 2008. The brewery itself is over 130 years old and developed its recipes in association with Spanish National Health Research Council. The result is a bright golden lager with amber tones and pleasantly bitter lingering finish. Of all the gluten-free beers I’ve tasted, this is the one that tastes most like traditional beer, with 6 ppm gluten. Next up is Mongozo. A premium pilsner that is sold in single bottles, about $4 a bottle. Hailing from Holland, it’s a sweet and tangy beer that is very easy to drink. Mongozo is not only gluten-free at 10ppm, it’s also certified organic and fair trade.

Ontario and the entire line of beers from Montreal’s Glutenberg Brewery. Glutenberg has five different beers, all of them 6-packs around $15. I’m a fan of the IPA and the Blonde in particular.

Green’s is a brand that has to be mentioned. A Belgian brewery making gluten-free beer since 2004, Greens is in a quality category all of its own. At my wedding, I had a bottle of Green’s at the table. It’s that good, and it’s that expensive at almost $8 for a 500 ml bottle. If you find it at a bar, it may be the most expensive drink on the menu.

Calgary has the best gluten-free beer scene in Canada

In past years, Canada was somewhat underrepresented in the gluten-free beer world, but that is changing with the emergence of a few notable beers including Nickel Brook Pale Ale from

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Alberta also has a few entries in the gluten-free beer race. Red Deer’s Drummond Gluten Free, $13, and Boxer Gluten-Free, $10, are newly available, more affordable alternatives. While some gluten-free beers are placing themselves opposite the craft beer makers, these two are aimed more squarely at what I would call a camping beer. While they aren’t about to win the

top prize for quality, at around $10 for a 6-pack, they offer something good in a more reasonable price range. I work as a travelling musician playing across Canada and around the world, and I have to say I think Calgary has the best gluten-free beer scene in Canada. In retail stores and in restaurants, I feel like I have choice of products and access to informed staff. And while I’m still waiting to see a signature gluten-free beer from a Calgary brewery, it really is a great time to hoist a gluten-free glass, pint or stein. Cheers! Calgary based alt-country singer and songwriter, Matt Masters, was diagnosed with Celiac disease in 2009. He says he has waited patiently for a good magazine review of GF beers for five years, and without any comprehensive printed review, he turned to his Alberta roots and wrote one himself. Matt has subsequently made it a life mission to find, consume and eventually buy shares in the best GF beers in the world.

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Making The Case by TOM FIRTH

Oh March, for many it is the first hint of spring, while in Calgary it is usually best thought of as almost the end of winter.

MMM Macho Man Monastrell 2012 Jumilla, Spain Intended as a modern take on monastrell from the Wine Gurus, fruits are fleshy and ripe led by strawberries and mixed berry fruits with a slightly earthy, compost quality. Lively and delicious with the fruit you crave balanced by the tannin and acid you need. I’d love to match this up with braised beef or a hearty stew. $23 or so CSPC +561977

Mas Neuf 2012 Rhone Paradox Rouge Rhone, France Mostly syrah with mourvedre, grenache, and carignan, the nose is wonderfully earthy to start, with subtle notes of smoke and compost but plenty of red fruits there too. Very pleasing to drink with plenty of depth and character, though leaning more towards earth over fruit. Lamb would be a rockstar here, though a kick-ass cheese plate will too. $21 CSPC +757791

Frescobaldi 2011 Vecchi Viti Tuscany, Italy Red wines are still the order of the day even though usually March isn’t that cold. At home, we reach for medium to full bodied red wines, and pair them up with hearty sauces, red meats, and if the snow is mostly gone around the barbecue, we fire it up and start grilling. Wines from Spain, France, Australia, and Italy are represented below, and I think they are all great places for wines any time of year. 36

Sourced from the oldest vines and made in a more traditional style, the 2011 is the first release of Vecchi Viti. It’s still Chianti, so you’ll get those cherry and black fruits you want, but plenty of mint leaf, leather, and some slightly chalky tannins. It will settle down nicely if you cellar for 2-3 more years. Pair with rustic Italian eggplant or mushroom dishes. Approx $32 CSPC +764866

The Invisible Man 2011, Rioja, Spain

Castaño 2013 Monastrell, Yecla, Spain

Mas Neuf 2008 La Mourvache Costières de Nîmes, Rhone, France

Another wine new to our market from the Wine Gurus, this rioja is the expected tempranillo with about 5% mazuelo. Crisp, prominent berry fruits, with aromas hinting of dried wood, and herb notes. Finely balanced between tannin and fruit with vanilla bean and a little spice, I’d enjoy this with a wide variety of dishes from meaty pastas to Mexican dishes. Around $22 CSPC +569783

Always a great buy, the folks from Castaño have done it again. The monastrell bursts with strawberry and cherry fruits with cracked pepper spice and a hint of liquorice. Spicy and tangy on the palate with good fruits and firm tannins, this should be a perfect match with pork loin or braised meats of almost any kind. $16 CSPC +711017

Rosemount Estate 2012 “Diamond Label” Shiraz, South Australia

Jacob’s Creek 2009 Reserve Shiraz Barossa, South Australia

Oxford Landing 2012 Shiraz South Australia

There is no denying the rich opulence that Australia can put in their wines. Bright, jammy fruits with spice box, pepper, and pencil tones on the nose that lead into big, juicy flavours with just the right amount of tannin and acidity. On the table, it’s going to shine with beef almost any way you can imagine it, but will also work perfectly on its own. Around $20 CSPC +302349

This could be a wine in danger of having “too much fruit” but you get your nose in there and exotic spices and dark chocolate characters start coming out to change your mind. There is still plenty of fruit but lively acids and a little tannic kick knocks everything into balance. Very tasty and perfect for the first barbecue of the season. Expect to pay about $20 CSPC +556696

A fresh, fruit-driven bottle of Aussie shiraz bursting with plums and cherries, with gingerbread spice and a little vanilla bean on the nose. Flavours are pretty consistent, with fruits a little less prominent than I was expecting, but overall, well balanced and finishing on sour cherry fruit. Drinking well on its own at any casual gathering. $14 CSPC +613430

Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo 2008 Brunello, Tuscany, Italy

Castello di Gabbiano 2011 Bellezza Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy

Castello di Gabbiano 2012 Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy

There is never anything wrong with opening a bottle of Brunello - period. Open this one and you’ll fall in love with the earthy, black cherry and tobacco characters with hints of smoke and roasted meat, finishing on menthol and leather. Best for cellaring a few more years, or drink now with the thickest steak you can manage. $62 CSPC +744097

I’m a fan of the Bellezza from Gabbiano, the 2010 was a gem and the 2011 is even better. Plump, lush fruits, the right amount of wood, and a casual spiciness to balance the tannin. Happy to drink it now, but I’d feel no rush to pull the cork before 2018-2020. Food wise, spaghetti with meat sauce, or anything with sausage or Portobellos are coming to mind. About $44 CSPC +745669

An easy and tasty Chianti Classico showcasing clean cherry fruits with subtle tobacco leaf and the barest hint of raspberry jam. Style-wise, it should appeal to “new world” wine drinkers, but the flavours are perfect for Italian cuisine - especially rich tomato-based sauces. About $18 CSPC +728809

A grenache-mourvedre blend to savour any time of year, cherry and spice with charred wood and liquorice aromas bringing complexity and depth. Fruits are generous without being flashy, while spice and earthy flavours work well with the mid-weight tannins. Food wise, something with a little fat will be best such as New York steaks, or meaty lasagnas. $21 CSPC +744453

Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @cowtownwine. 37

Stout-Hearted Beers by DAVID NUTTALL

“An Irishman is the only man in the world who will step over the bodies of a dozen naked women to get to a bottle of stout.” — Anonymous

There is probably no beer style more identified with a single country than stout is with Ireland, and no Irish stout is more recognizable than Guinness. Guinness is not only one of the best selling beers in the world; it becomes THE beer for St. Patrick’s Day However, there is more than one kind of Guinness, and there are many different varieties of stout. Stout beers arose in London, England in the 17th century, mainly as a stronger, and more full-bodied version of other beers, primarily porter. Hence “stout porters” had more alcohol than regular porters, but stouts could be beer of any colour.

While different styles of stout each have their own unique characteristics, they all have many things in common besides colour. They usually pour with a significant head, and tend to have a chocolate/coffee flavour due to the dark malts. This makes the hop bitterness less apparent, even though some varieties, like Russian Imperial and American stouts, measure well into the 70 to 90s IBU level. What does change are the sweetness, body and mouthfeel of each variety; a consequence of how they are made and what ingredients have been added.

So come this St. Paddy’s Day, maybe celebrate with a different kind of stout. There are many available in Alberta from Over the centuries, stouts became less the UK, USA, the Caribbean and from about the alcoholic strength and more our own home-grown Canadian brewers. about the colour, which can be anywhere Go on, try a few! from a dark reddish-brown to black (although white stouts do exist). To get Oatmeal Stout has oatmeal added that colour, brewers use a combination during the brewing process, which of chocolate, dark and black malts, makes for a smooth, chocolate taste. roasted barley, and other malts, which Big Rock includes Steel Cut Oatmeal produces what is usually the darkest Raisin in its Barn Burner variety pack, beer made by the brewery. and Wild Rose has Alberta Crude, found

only on tap. Also try Howe Sound’s Diamond Head (1 L bottle, $10) or St. Amboise Oatmeal Stout. (6 pk $14, or single 473 ml can, $4). Village Brewery recently debuted their new stout, National Stout, at, naturally, National tap houses. A new Calgary brewery, The Dandy Brewing Company, conceived Dandy in the Underworld Sweet Oyster Stout (650 ml bottle, $8), so named not because it contains oyster juice (although some do), but because stout pairs so perfectly with shellfish. Stouts also go great with BBQ, roasted meat, spicy food, most cheeses and many desserts, especially chocolate. Stout’s natural chocolate flavour is sometimes enhanced with the addition of real chocolate or cocoa to produce Double Chocolate Stout. Some even have fruit added to create dessert in a glass. Muskoka Brewery’s Double Chocolate Cranberry Stout is one such beer, but be careful; its 8% ABV packs a punch along with the sweetness. (750 ml bottle, $11)

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The Many Faces Of Guinness by KATHY JOLLIMORE

Besides the parades of green, a sure sign of St. Patrick’s Day is undoubtedly a tall frothy glass of Guinness Irish dry stout.

Though many maintain Guinness should be enjoyed but one way perfectly poured in a pint glass - the roasted barley notes make the perfect complement to ice cream floats and even cocktails. This St Patrick’s Day enjoy one the world’s most popular beers shaken up into a boozy cream soda or poured over homemade Baileys ice cream. Slainte!

Baileys ice cream may just be the best ice cream ever

Irish Car Bomb Float

From left to right: Irish Car Bomb Float, Guinness Affogato, Guinness Lift, and Irish Flip

The Irish Car Bomb, where a shot of Baileys Irish Cream is dropped into a glass of Guinness and Jameson Irish whiskey, may be a fan favourite but this float takes it to the next level. Besides, Baileys ice cream may just be the best ice cream ever. 1 oz Jameson Irish whiskey 2 scoops Baileys Irish Cream ice cream (recipe below) 1 can Guinness

Add the whiskey into a tall glass. Add the ice cream. Top with Guinness and serve immediately. The roasted barley notes make the perfect complement to ice cream floats and even cocktails

Baileys Ice Cream 3 egg yolks ½ cup sugar ½ cup (120 mL) whole milk ½ cup (120 mL) heavy cream ½ cup (120 mL) Baileys ½ tsp vanilla

1. Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until thick and pale in colour.

2. In a saucepan, heat the milk, cream, Baileys and vanilla, just until it starts steaming.

3. Slowly whisk the hot liquid into

Irish Flip Though not a true eggnog, this rich and creamy Guinness flip will convert even the staunchest of Guinness purists. 1½ oz bourbon ½ oz coffee liquor ½ oz.simple syrup 1 egg 1 oz Guinness nutmeg, to garnish

In a shaker, add the bourbon, coffee liquor, simple syrup, and egg. Dry shake without ice for 30 seconds. Fill shaker with ice and shake until the tin frosts over. Pour into a coupe glass. Add Guinness and garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

Guinness Affogato

Guinness Lift The lift is essentially an egg cream, a drink of milk, soda and chocolate syrup made popular in New York soda fountains in the late 19th century. This updated version is boozy, creamy, refreshing, and just the right amount of sweet. 2 oz cognac ¾ oz Galliano ¾ oz heavy cream 2 oz Guinness soda

the egg yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and heat gently, stirring continuously, until thickened.

Affogato, the classic Italian combination of freshly brewed espresso and vanilla ice cream or gelato, just got better.

4. Remove from heat and pour

2 scoops vanilla ice cream 1 shot espresso 1 can Guinness

In a shaker, add the cognac, Galliano, and heavy cream. Fill with ice. Shake until the tin frosts over. Strain into a Collins glass. Add the Guinness. Top with soda slowly, creating a frothy head. Serve immediately.

5. Pour into an ice cream maker and

In a tall glass, add the vanilla ice cream. Pour the shot of espresso over. Top with Guinness and serve immediately.

Kathy Jollimore is a cooking school instructor, food writer, and food stylist in Halifax, Nova Scotia. She writes the blog eathalifax.ca and contributes to a weekly recipe column in the Chronicle Herald.

into a shallow dish. Refrigerate until completely cool. follow manufacturer’s directions. Serve immediately or freeze until more firm.

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I’ve been very lucky in my career, it never feels like work to me,” says Jill Belland of City TV’s Breakfast Television. “Sometimes waking up it feels like work, but other than that…” 15th generation French Canadian, Belland started life in the first solarpowered home in western Canada, which her father and his brothers built in Elk Island, outside Edmonton, but she grew up in Calgary. Her TV career began after working as a summer student at the Kid’s Cancer Care Foundation, where she helped organise a fundraiser. “I had come to know the team at BT there, and when I went back to school they offered me a job to pour coffee on the morning show,” she says. “It was a great job. I worked 5:00 – 9:00am, then I’d go to class during the day studying dance.” Belland is still very active, teaching ballet bar classes and as a runner. Her rise in TV has been fast; within a month she was trained as a production assistant, then hired to produce segments before becoming a full-time PA for the 6 o’clock news. Her first job on TV came a year and a half later when MTV Canada held auditions for entertainment reporters. “I lucked out in that preparedness meets opportunity,” she says. “I had a producer who took a 42

chance on me, so I worked for MTV for a summer and then got my own show when I was 22 years old.” Belland hosted ‘Wired’ from 2004 to 2006, and joined the morning show in 2008. It wasn’t easy, but after seven years, Belland has grown used to the lifestyle. “I initially really struggled with the sleep schedule,” she explains, “but now I can do one late night a week, but not more than that.” During the week, she’s rarely able to sit down and have a meal though. “We have a lunch club after the show every day,” she says, “a group of us will go out for lunch, which is at 10 o’clock in the morning - you miss the lunch rush!” So what wine is Belland saving for a special occasion? “A girlfriend and I travel around the world to run marathons, and in 2012 we ran the Bordeaux marathon,” says Belland. “It’s a total riot, 10,000 people in costumes run chateau to chateau for wine tastings and some of the chateaux were spectacular.”

Most people wouldn’t take a ‘winetasting marathon’ seriously, but Belland didn’t actually sample until 17K. “We just took our time but we also paced ourselves on the tastings because there’s so much to enjoy there,” she explains. “At the end of the race we got this bottle of 2007 Chateau Tour de Pez, for finishing. It may not be significant for wine connoisseurs, but it’s an accomplishment.” And when is she planning to open the bottle? Belland has set her sights on the Boston marathon, the most elite race in the world with 38,000 entrants and an average of 30,000 participants. “It really separates recreational runners from athletes,” she says. The plan is to run the Calgary half marathon, then Sacramento for the qualifying race, which, if all goes well, would put her into Boston in two years. “We’re saving the wine for when we qualify for Boston,” she adds. “We’d celebrate after we’d run the race. At this point it’s a pipe dream as I haven’t started the training yet.”

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