Culinaire 4 9 (march 2016) by Culinaire Magazine

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 4 NO.9 :: MARCH 2016

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME Beyond YYC: Canmore & Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe: The Green Fairy

30 VOLUME 4 / ISSUE #9 MARCH 2016

Features 16 Celebrating Women Restaurateurs March 8th is International Women’s Day, so we asked some of Calgary’s successful women restaurateurs for their thoughts on the industry by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

22 Calgary’s Cocktail 34 Beyond YYC: Canmore Queens and Banff We’re celebrating our city’s lady With more ‘staycations’ than ever shakers and stirrers too, and sharing anticipated this year, we’re discovering their favourite cocktail recipes, and great eats and watering holes close to tips for success in the mixology world home in our mountain towns by Rebecca Davis and Dan Clapson by Linda Garson

37 Craft Breweries Is this the next Alberta boom? by David Nuttall

Canadian Pulses …are poised for the limelight by Robyn Maclean

26 Getting A Leg Up …in the lamb industry, at PaSu Farm by Diana Ng

29 Absinthe The Green Fairy makes a comeback by Patricia Koyich

40 Making the Case Classic and consistent B.C. producers by Tom Firth

42 Open That Bottle Phoebe Fung of Vin Room by Linda Garson

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Book Review

Off The Menu – Scopa’s Polenta Bread

Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!

20 Step-By-Step: Hot Cross Buns 28 Soup Kitchen 32

Spice It Up Irish Stew

30 To Go Please! Four Calgary options for healthy food — fast by Kadie Hummel

On the Cover: Many thanks to our Calgary mixologists, from left: Samantha Casuga, Madeleine MacDonald, Savanna Beach, and Christina Mah; to Ingrid Kuenzel for the expert photography, and to Native Tongues for letting us completely disrupt and take over their restaurant!

Letter From The Editor Welsh will be celebrating St. David’s Day on March 1, so be sure to have your leeks and lamb at the ready. We’ve included a recipe for Creamy Potato, Leek and Sausage Soup, so you can have a quick, easy, and very tasty dish up your sleeve.

March already! What do we have to look forward to this month?

It’s Pi Day on March 14, how will you be marking the occasion? I can’t wait to see

March 20 is the first day of spring as well as International Earth Day –can we all eat organic for one whole day? March 22 is World Water Day - spare a thought, as we take clean drinking water for granted in Canada, but sadly it’s not the same all over the world. We’re not going to worry too much about National Chocolate Covered Raisin Day on March 24, but then comes Easter the day after – may there be plenty of eggs for you this year, chocolate and hardboiled! Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

brazilian barbecue

We’ve tried to pack in a lot to keep topical, but it’s not possible to observe all the days each month. Of course, the

Next up is International Women’s Day on March 8, and this is an important one for us, so we’re raising our glasses to the women in Calgary’s food and beverage industry. We do have excellent women chefs, but not as many as we’d like, and as seen on our front cover we also have expert women mixologists and women restaurant owners too, some of whom we were able to ask for their thoughts on being a women in a man’s world. Having worked for myself my whole life, I know it’s not so easy – you need a thick skin and very strong shoulders.

what our pizza restaurants come up with. Hmm… it’s also National Potato Chip Day though. March 17 is St. Patrick’s Day - let’s celebrate by eating green food rather than drinking green beer!

authentic.

The way it should be.

Experience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco, an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America.

C A N MO R E

629 Main Street phone:403 .678.9886 C A L G A RY

100 5920 Macleod Trail SW phone:403 .45 4.9119

w w w. b r a z i l i a n b b q . c a

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 sales@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson dan@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Digital Media Editor: Anna Brooks web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Rebecca Davis Mallory Frayn Kadie Hummel Renee Kohlman Patricia Koyich Robyn Maclean Karen Miller Diana Ng David Nuttall

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors < Elizabeth ChorneyBooth

Elizabeth is freelance writer who has written for publications including Avenue, The Calgary Herald, Swerve, WestJet Magazine, Today’s Parent, Culinaire, and many others. She’s also one of the new faces behind the Best of Bridge cookbook franchise and the co-editor of RollingSpoon.com and Wapawekka.com. Elizabeth lives in Calgary with her husband, two kids, and her ever-growing collection of vintage cookbooks.

< Robyn Maclean

Robyn works as a public relations professional by day, and spends the majority of her nights creating new recipes, eating, talking and writing about food. When she isn’t consumed by the culinary world, she can be found exploring the beautiful playground she currently calls home in Anchorage, Alaska while trying to navigate the wild and unruly world of motherhood with her new baby boy. Follow her on Twitter @robynalana.

< Kadie Hummel

Kadie is a journalism graduate and freelance writer from Calgary. She enjoys a good glass of wine and escaping to the mountains. Although her oven tends to be used more as an extra shoe rack rather than a cooking device, she’s mastered a few of her mother’s recipes by force. Kadie is an avid traveller, and has been to over 40 countries around the world, indulging in different cultures and food. Follow her adventures @xxkadie

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes... Congrats to Pizza 73

And to Kevin Kent

… who concluded its 2015 fundraising, raising close to $36,000 in Calgary, and over $103,000 in Alberta, for Alberta Children’s Hospital and Stollery Children’s Hospital.

… of Knifewear and Kent of Inglewood, who has received a Japanese Foreign Minister’s Commendation. Only about 100 are awarded each year globally, to acknowledge contributions to the

promotion of friendship between Japan and other countries.

And to Chef Matt Batey … of The Nash, who brought home the Silver Medal at the Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna last month.

and Shout Outs... local, pasture-raised chicken Yakiniku (grilled meat) and Yakitori (chicken skewers from every part of the bird). Shokunin also has a great value drinks list of only Junmai sake, and its own Okami Kasu beer. Watch for bento boxes, ramen take-out window, weekend brunches, and patio - all coming soon! And did we mention the outstanding tea program? Hand-picked Pu-erh tea! Das Wirtshaus!

Welcome to Calgary Das Wirtshaus! The ex-Ruan Thai location on 11th Avenue SW, is now German native, Freddy Kuester’s smart new restaurant, where he’s cooking up authentic pork centre loin schnitzel (9 varieties!) and sausages, spätzle, homey bratkartoffeln (fried potatoes), specialty hot kartoffelsalat (potato salad) and rosemary potato wedges. Wash it all down with one of his favourite German beers or wines, but be sure to leave room for warm apfelstrudel (and a glass of hot apple spice cocktail!) – you’ll thank us! Shokunin Full Circle Pizza and Oyster Bar

Alforno Bakery and Café

7th Teatro Group property, Alforno Bakery and Café, is now open on 7th Street SW, in Eau Claire. What a welcome addition it is too - part Italian bakery and part upscale café/coffee shop. Now home to Vendome chef, Erik Burley, who is cooking up breakfast (Ricotta Hotcakes!), lunch (the Duck Confit Truffle Aioli Sandwich is superb) and dinner (Bucatini Carbonara is a fave), and Teatro pastry chef Leah Gamache, who is tempting us with her freshly baked breads, and sweet and savoury delights, to eat in or take away with you. Alforno is also proud of its locally roasted coffee program, with special house blends of certified organic Paradise Mountain coffee. You’ll know where to find us now! The wait is over! Shokunin has opened its doors in Mission. Share plates at Darren Maclean’s new restaurant - the first in Calgary to use Kishu Binchotan (premium Japanese charcoal) to grill the

The Block

The Block is back! Six months of renovations after extensive flood damage, Chef Kai Salimaki and his team are back in the kitchen of this 4th Street NW restaurant and lounge, with a new menu and all-day breakfast, as well as lunch, dinner, and late night bites. A partition wall means that minors are now welcome too. Soul-satisfying comfort food dishes include wonderfully ooey gooey Cheesy Croquettes, and fall-apart slow-cooked brisket, as well as favourites such as excellent roast The Mission chicken and grandma’s butterscotch pie.

Be In It To Win It! Registration is now open! Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers, and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards. Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20 For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca

culinairemagazine.ca/aba

sponsors:

Book Review

by KAREN MILLER

The Butcher, The Baker, The Wine and Cheese Maker By The Sea

The recipes are based around a featured local ingredient, prepared by a chef and paired with a wine or beverage maker, then accompanied by their personal stories. There really is so much to choose from in the area with just about every category of food and drink imaginable. The book also doubles as a useful tool to explore any area of the region. An edible travel guide, if you will.

by Jennifer Schell Touchwood Editions 2015 $29.95

If the name sounds familiar to you, you’re right! This is the west coast follow up to the award-winning Okanagan cookbook by BC food writer, Jennifer Schell. This vibrant author continues to introduce us – personally – to all the producers linked by her somewhat catchy geographical reference, ‘by the sea’. Inside her cookbook, there are fisherman from Tofino, bison farmers, mixologists, brewers, Pemberton potato growers (who are potato vodka makers too) and plenty of other interesting individuals. The stories told by Schell demonstrate the passion and pride in their crafts. Her goal is to educate about what

goes into their work and survival, and to pay tribute to their dedication and those who support them. The stories are all inspirational, and it is easy to find many you want to follow. This is easy to do as the cookbook provides great location and social media contact information for each participant.

It is obvious the author is enamoured of the west coast of British Columbia, and its farmers, artisans, and chefs, and she wants us to be too. The beginning of each personal story may be different, but their journeys all end with a common base to work from; to provide safe and sustainable Canadian food and drink. Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

A FRESH NEW CROP at

CROSSROADS MARKET PRIMAL GROUNDS Serving Specialty Coffee & Comfort Foods JEBB’S JOINT Fresh Pasta Bar SOFFRITO Fresh Olive & Vinegar Bar UPTOWN GELATO A New Experience with Every Taste

100+ VENDORS OPEN FRIDAY-SUNDAY • 9AM TO 5PM CROSSROADSMARKET.CA • 1235 26 AVE SE we believe fresh is always bett er.

Off The Menu Are there dishes on Calgary restaurant menus that you go to bed dreaming about, that you’d love to have a go at making at home? There certainly are for us, and we’re asking those restaurants to let us into their secrets! Scopa’s Polenta Bread is memorable – a little smoky, a little spicy, a little sweet, and served warm and soft… It’s not on the menu at the moment (insider information – it will be back on the menu soon!), so we’re grateful to Creative Restaurants Group Executive Chef Glen Manzer for letting us share his recipe.

Scopa’s Pancetta Apricot Polenta Bread Serves 6

Apricot Puree

125 g dried apricots 150 mL water Pinch kosher salt

Combine dried apricots, water and salt in a small pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook 4 minutes. Puree in a food processor until smooth and set aside.

Polenta Bread

200 g smoked pancetta 250 g all purpose flour 212 g cornmeal 1 Tbs + ½ tsp baking powder 1½ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp Marash chili flakes 1½ cups (360 mL) sour cream 9 egg yolks 115 g butter, melted 2 Tbs (30 mL) honey 9 egg whites 3 Tbs granulated sugar

1. Chop the pancetta into very small

pieces and cook in a pan over medium heat until all the fat has been rendered. Remove from heat and set aside keeping both the pancetta and the fat.

2. In a large bowl sift together flour,

cornmeal and baking powder. Add the salt and chili flakes.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together

the sour cream, egg yolks, and melted butter. Whisk in the apricot puree you made earlier, and cooked pancetta with its fat.

4. In a clean dry bowl with a whisk

attachment, whip egg whites until foamy. Add the granulated sugar gradually, and continue to whip until soft peaks form. A little smoky, a little spicy, a little sweet, and served warm and soft…

5. With a spatula, stir the wet

ingredients gently into the dry by hand until just combined, being careful not to over-mix. Immediately, in 3 additions, fold in the whipped egg whites.

6. Gently pour the mixture into a

9 x 13” baking pan that has been greased well or lined with parchment.

7. Bake at 325º F for 10 minutes,

rotate and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes until the top is golden, a skewer inserted into the centre of the bread comes out clean, and when gently pressed in the centre, the bread springs back to the touch.

If there’s a dish in a Calgary restaurant that you’d love to try and make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and hopefully you’ll see it printed here very soon! 10

Join us this Winter for a special 3-Course Express Lunch Menu Tuesdays - Fridays

Winter Palate Lunch | $25

Call 403.476.1310 for Reservations

Chefs' Tips Tricks! by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Warm, hearty soup gives us something to look forward to when the cold weather sets in. In Calgary, it’s basically soup season for two-thirds of the year, so why not embrace the season in all its frosty glory! Sure, you can grab a bowl from one of Calgary’s many hotspots - or you can learn some innovative tips from local experts like these three Calgary chefs, and master your own savoury and satisfying recipes at home.

Satisfying Soups

Chef Mel Lafleur

One Horn Developments (The Libertine Public House, Below Deck Tavern, Unicorn SuperPub) If you find yourself with an unsatisfyingly thin soup, chef Lafleur has a few go-to methods to thicken for an ideal consistency. “There are so many ‘new’ ways to thicken without using the old roux (equal parts fat and flour) technique, which if done improperly can taste noticeably chalky,” says Lafleur. “My trick is to use non-gluten items, making the soup more accessible to more people. Starchy vegetables like

beans and lentils lend themselves well to this technique,” explains the chef. “I’m a big fan of using chickpeas to thicken. They add a nice flavour and consistency when pureed,” she continues. “The carrots in the recipe below also act as a wonderful thickening agent.”

Carrot and Tahini Soup with Pita Chips Serves 6

2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or extra virgin olive oil ½ white onion, small diced 3 cloves of garlic, minced ½ tsp black pepper 1 tsp kosher or sea salt ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp turmeric Pinch of cayenne (depends on how spicy you like it) 450 g carrots, peeled and diced 1 cm thick ½ - 398 mL can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 6 cups (1½ L) vegetable stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme, stems removed and chopped ⅓ cup (80 mL) tahini Juice of 1 fresh lemon (save zest for garnish) 2 pita breads, cut into 6 pieces each 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil Chopped fresh cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 350º F. Brush the

wedges of pita with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and toast in the oven for 5-6 minutes until golden brown and crisp on all edges. Set aside to cool.

2. In a medium saucepot, heat the oil

over a medium high heat, then sauté the onions and garlic for 3 or 4 minutes, until tender and transparent.

3. Season with salt, pepper, and spices and cook for another 2 minutes.

4. Add the carrots and vegetable stock. Turn down to low and let simmer for approximately 15 minutes, until the carrots are fork tender, then add the chickpeas and tahini.

5. Puree the soup until smooth with a hand blender, or a blender, or food processor. Add the fresh thyme and lemon juice at the end.

6. Garnish with fresh cilantro, lemon zest and pita chips.

* This is a vegetarian, dairy free and, if the pita chips are omitted, gluten free soup.

Chef Neil McCue

creamy topping like sour cream; and a little crunch pairs well with pretty much everything. Try thinking beyond “I like to get creative with my garnishes,” croutons, cheese and fresh herbs says McCue exuberantly. “It’s like (although we still love all of the above!) accessorizing your food! You can easily turn something good into something “It would be a shame to miss the great. It’s not always necessary, but by opportunity to add more depth and adding contrasting flavours and textures, excitement to a bowl, points out you can really elevate your dish and take McCue. “Try a little crème fraiche, it to the next level.” crispy prosciutto, gremolata, chopped nuts, ginger, citrus rind, scallions, or Contrast is the key. A rich creamy soup like I’ve done in my recipe below, I’ve needs crisp, fresh toppings like scallions; replaced the croutons with a freshly a spicy soup pairs beautifully with a cool, baked croissant.” Whitehall

Chef Neil McCue

Sunchoke Soup with a Prosciutto Croissant Serves 6

2 white onions, small diced 1 celery heart, finely diced 1 leek (white part only), washed and finely chopped 100 g salted butter 400 g sunchokes, peeled, finely chopped and soaked in milk Salt and white pepper to taste 1½ cups (350 mL) chicken stock 1½ cups (350 mL) hot milk Puff Pastry Prosciutto Slices Grainy Mustard Egg Wash

1. In a medium stockpot on moderate

5. Transfer to a blender and blitz on

2. Add the sunchokes and sweat for

Tip: When using a white vegetable such as parsnip, celeriac and sunchoke, use milk as the liquid to maintain the colour of the vegetable.

heat, sweat the vegetables in the butter until translucent, lightly seasoning with salt. 2 more minutes.

3. Add stock just to cover the

vegetables and turn up heat to high.

4. Cook for 20 minutes until the sunchokes soften.

high for 1 minute (break up into smaller batches if necessary). Season to taste and pass through a sieve before serving.

Croissant

Pre heat oven to 350º F

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry to 2-3 mm thick.

2. Cut out triangles, 10 cm high to a 7.5 cm diameter base.

3. Brush with grainy mustard and egg wash. Top with a slice of prosciutto.

4. Roll up croissant from the base to

the tip, and brush more egg wash on top.

5. Bake in oven on a greased, lined tray, until golden and crispy (approximately 20 minutes).

6. Serve on top of soup as garnish.

Executive Chef Mike French

Tip: Always bake puff pastry from cold as the butter will stay incorporated in the pastry during baking, allowing an even crispy finish. 13

Barbara Spain Cleaver

Chef Spain is a believer that soup can be tailored to any season, and we agree! When it comes to the chilled variety, a little guidance is in order to whip up a bowl of refreshingly cool soup. “Use the freshest, in-season produce available,” says Spain. “And it’s incredibly important to allow enough

Pea and Ham Soup with a Crispy Egg Serves 4

30 g unsalted butter 1 large shallot, finely sliced 300 g fresh garden peas shelled weight. (Frozen peas could be used in the winter) Sprig of flowering fresh thyme, leaves only 50 mL dry vermouth or dry white wine 300 mL hot vegetable or white chicken stock 100 mL cream Handful of ham hock for garnish

time to adequately chill the soup so your guests know at first bite that the temperature was very intentional.”

Barbara Spain

Soups best suited for swinging both ways are vegetable-based soups. “The trick here is to immediately pour the soup into a chilled bowl sitting over ice once it’s done cooking, whether serving hot or cold. By cooling it as soon as possible, the natural pea colour stays bright and vibrant.”

1. In a large pot, sweat the shallot

Crispy Egg

2. Add the vermouth and the hot

2 eggs  ¼ cup flour  1 beaten egg  ½ cup panko breadcrumbs Salt and pepper

in butter over a low heat. The trick is to have patience and cook slowly for up to 20 minutes, pulling the natural sweetness from them. stock and bring to a boil. Add the peas and bring back to a boil. Let boil for 2 minutes.

3. Add the cream and season to taste. 4. Set up a large bowl of ice with a

smaller bowl on top. Blend soup with a hand blender or food processor and pour it into the bowl over ice.

A cold soup can be a good soup too!

1. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. 2. Gently place eggs in and time for 6 minutes and 20 seconds.

3. Gently place eggs into an ice water bath to cool.

4. Set up 3 bowls: one with the flour,

one with the beaten egg, and one with the seasoned breadcrumbs.

5. Gently peel the cooled eggs. 6. Roll the eggs in flour, then egg wash and finally the breadcrumbs. When ready to use, heat oil to med high and fry until golden in colour.

If serving cold, chill in the refrigerator for at least three hours before serving. If consuming hot, be sure to warm very slowly. Garnish with the crispy egg cut in half and a handful of ham hock. Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer, with a passion for food and beverages. Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage, AK, you can still find her on Twitter @robynalana 14

DISCOVER CALIFORNIA WINES The largest tasting tour of California wines in Canada Also includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

TuESDAy, ApRIL 26, 2016 7:00 pm – 9:30 pm, pALOmINO ROOm, bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk $75 gST INCLuDED

calgaryopera.com/winefair FESTIVAL DES VINS ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

W I N E FA I R

QuEbÉC CITy mONTRÉAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

International Women’s Day: Celebrating Women Restaurateurs by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

While commercial kitchens have traditionally seen more men working behind the stoves in their chef whites, we’re seeing more and more women make their mark as high profile chefs in recent years. But women aren’t just winning accolades in the kitchen — an increasing number of women are running the business end of successful restaurants in Calgary and beyond. 16

In celebration of International Women’s Day on March 8, we caught up with some of Calgary’s most prominent women restaurateurs, and asked for their thoughts on their experiences in the industry, and the business of running a restaurant.

: : Sat u rd ay, A pril 9 t h :: the 2 nd Annual Culinaire Tre as u re Hunt! Everyone went home a winner at our inaugural Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year! All the spots sold out, and it was so popular that we’ve planned another hunt again this year – with new and exciting destinations to discover, and treats to enjoy!

How did you get involved in the restaurant industry? Vanessa Salopek, Market, owner: Ever since I was young, I always knew I wanted to open a restaurant. There is something quite magical about getting a group of people together and socializing over delicious food. A lot is shared around a dinner table: stories, laughter, and just enjoying the dining experience with great company. There is a reason why people will justify paying more to eat out at a restaurant, and it’s because food brings people together in a way that nothing else really can compare to. I really wanted to build a restaurant that would allow me to bring that magical experience to many people. An increasing number of women are running the business end of successful restaurants in Calgary Phoebe Fung, Vin Room and VR Wine, proprietor: I’m an accidental restaurateur. While on sabbatical from my oil and gas job, I discovered a little wine bar in Texas and thought it would be fun to create a wine bar in Calgary. So, one day as I was walking down 4th Street and saw that the old Mission Cycle building was closed, I jumped at the opportunity and five months of construction later, I had a wine bar.

What other women in the industry inspire you? Patricia Koyich, former owner of Il Sogno, current Instructor at the School of Hospitality and Tourism at SAIT: I have always been, and will continue to be, inspired by my mother

Places are filling up, so register today to be one of the lucky people to take part in our second culinary adventure!

and grandmother (in memory). Both are from rural Alberta — hardworking woman who emphasized the importance of “the table.” I also have an extremely amazing and inspiring group of friends in the industry: Liana Robberecht (executive chef at Winsport), Nicole Gomes (Nicole Gourmet Catering), and the two who inspired me in my career the most locally, Sal Howell from the River Café and Carol Buchanan of Buchanan’s. They are both amazing and passionate woman, whose hard work, commitment and drive have inspired me to follow my dreams, never compromise my standards, and continue to learn and grow as an industry professional. Jenny Chan, Vero Bisto Moderne, chef/owner: One of my teachers when I was taking the Professional Cooking programs at SAIT, was Chef Margaret Turner. She was also my coach in all the cooking competitions I competed in. She taught me to strive to be the best and to learn how to be 100% dedicated in whatever I do. I really see how dedicated she is to her profession and to her students, she really wants her students to succeed. To this day Chef Turner encourages and supports me, which I really appreciate.

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants, markets and stores reveal the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too! And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations, wear the best costumes, have the funniest team names, tweet the funniest photos… and lots lots more!

It’s another very fun and rewarding day, so if you haven’t already registered, grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo. Visit culinairemagazine.ca/contests to register, follow us on Twitter for the latest details, and like us on facebook to keep up with the news and for more information!

 @culinairemag  /CulinaireMagazine  /culinairemag  culinairemagazine.ca

It’s definitely going to be another day to remember! 17

Chefs tend to get a lot of the glory when it comes to restaurants. What attracted you to the business side of restaurants? Alanna Martineau, Wine-Ohs, proprietor and director of wine: There can be a lot of ego in kitchens, and some really unhealthy behaviours that go along with that. I love to cook, but it was never my goal to be the one doing that in the restaurant. (Wine-Ohs executive chef and GM) Kristin Synnott and I work very collaboratively on menu planning and all aspects of restaurant management. I have a Master’s Degree in Industrial/Organizational Psychology, so I still do consulting in that field. My consulting experience certainly helps me look at the business and people side of the restaurant holistically, and I’ve learned a lot about the industry in the last few years.

“I have learned how important it is to take time for yourself”

Jayme MacFayden, BMeX Restaurant group (UNA Pizza and Wine, Ox and Angela, and Native Tongues), owner and operator: Being a chef is way sexier than being a restaurateur! Guests always want to see and talk to the chef, but really I am happy with that. I love service and being able to provide an experience for a guest overall, and although it seems like I should be super-outgoing, being in this industry, I’m actually incredibly shy and really don’t like being the centre of attention. So for me being the restaurateur is ideal. I can curate an experience from start to finish for a guest, small details they probably don’t even notice, to add up to the big picture, and get so much satisfaction from a great review, a repeat guest, or a word of mouth recommendation. 18

What are some of the biggest challenges of restaurant ownership/management? Jackie Cooke, Avec Bistro, proprietor/ sommelier: Owning a restaurant is 24/7, so taking time off is always difficult. We are very hands on, so between my partner and I, one of us is always in the restaurant. But, financial challenges are always the most difficult. Restaurant margins are lower than in any other industry, and right now the cost of food alone has increased substantially, by five percent to 25 percent. Connie DeSousa, CHARCUT Roast House and charbar, co-chef/owner: Managing a restaurant can be very demanding and it can be difficult to achieve a good work-life balance. Often times I go from running the line at CHARCUT to checking in on our guests at Charbar, and then back to CHARCUT for dinner service. Before my day is done, I respond to a full inbox of emails, manage my social media pages and tie up any loose ends. My days can be very long. I have learned how important it is to take time for yourself, spend it with the people you love, get some exercise, eat healthy and maintain balance.

who “get” us come back time and time again. I know couples that have met, fallen in love, married, brought their kids here, and then celebrated sending them off to university. Then they came in to celebrate their kids’ marriages and now grandkids. It is so wonderful, and creates a great sense of community.

What’s some advice that you’d give to a young person entering the industry? Nicole Gomes, Nicole Gourmet and Cluck ‘N’ Cleaver, chef/owner: This is a hard career, be prepared to work long hours for little pay, but remember it is your education. All the crappy jobs and challenging situations make you a stronger player in the game of food! ALWAYS follow your passion and dreams!

What are the biggest rewards?

Leslie Echino, Blink, owner/restaurant director: This industry is exciting because you are always doing something different. No day is ever the same and it keeps you on your toes. You have to be passionate about this industry because it is hard to make money — I probably would have been better off being a psychologist! Find a mentor or an incredible manager to work under, and remember that we do this for the love of the business.

Carol Buchanan, Buchanan’s, owner: It’s the friends we have made in the 27 years. We are in our 28th year of operations, and I love that those people

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com and Wapawekka.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.

Canadian Pulses Poised For The Limelight by ROBYN MACLEAN

Move along quinoa, the next big superfood is here. We’re talking about pulses, the edible dried seeds of legume crops. By no means a ‘new’ crop, if you’re not familiar with the term, pulses are better known as dried beans, chickpeas, lentils and dried peas. Ringing some bells? Chances are that your parents snuck them into many meals as a child. They knew what was going on long before this humble crop was rebranded as a trendy ingredient. Canada makes up… 95 percent of the world’s lentil production The United Nations (UN) officially declared 2016 the year of pulses, and it’s about time the world took notice of this ancient, yet underrated, crop. The UN recognizes the role pulses play in meeting future food requirements,

Beans

Available canned or dried in several varieties, such as black, kidney, pinto, navy, fava, lima, black-eyed peas and more. Add to chilli, hearty winter soups, cassoulets and salads.

contributing to global food security, nutrition, human health and environmental sustainability. And thus, in partnership with pulse producers from around the world, they are aggressively promoting on an international scale. The best part of all? It just so happens that our home and native land is the largest producer and exporter in the world. Canada makes up 35 percent of the global pulse business -which includes 95 percent of the world’s lentil production - shipping to more than 150 countries each year. Canadian consumers can feel good knowing that we’ve done our part to support local farmers and the economy. Densely packed with all the right nutrients, with a low carbon footprint

Peas

Dried peas are available in green and yellow varieties, either split or whole. Try adding pea protein powder to your morning smoothie for an extra healthy start to your day.

and a long shelf life, you can rest assured these delicious legumes are great for your health, great for the environment, and great for your wallet. To summarize just how good pulses are for the human body, they can help control and prevent diabetes, reduce the risk of heart disease, and help with weight management, cholesterol reduction and anaemia prevention sounds like a no-brainer. It’s time to rediscover this versatile harvest and reimagine new ways of incorporating them into your diet. Canadian consumers can feel good knowing that we’ve done our part to support local farmers and the economy.

Lentils

Lentils are easily accessible, either dried or canned. With approximately 14 varieties, colours range from yellow to green, red, brown and blue-black. They vary in size and can be found with or without skins, whole or split. Try substituting lentils for ground meat in lasagne or shepherd’s pie, or even try lentil flour in your baking.

Chickpeas

Also known as garbanzo beans, you can find the larger Kabuli or the smaller Desi at any supermarket, either canned or dried. Common uses include chickpea flour, hummus and falafel.

Step By Step: Hot Cross Buns story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

When I think about food served during Easter, there are a few things that come to mind immediately: a sweet and salty ham, with a burnished glaze of honey and mustard; then of course there are the requisite ham sandwiches those are the best.

Thick slices of cold ham and a decent schmear of yellow mustard nested between halves of fluffy, white homemade buns. I also think of those dreadfully addictive pastel-coloured Mini Eggs and the achingly sweet Cream Egg. But Easter doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really feel like Easter unless Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got hot cross buns in the house. So why do we eat this lightly spiced bun with the cross on it at Easter? Legend has it that a 12th century monk baked buns and marked them with a cross, in honour of Good Friday.

Their popularity swelled, and they became a symbol of Easter weekend. Towards the end of the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I tried to limit the sale of hot cross buns to Good Friday, Christmas and funerals, as the English were superstitious and believed the buns carried magical and medicinal properties; she was afraid those powers were being abused. Folks were in love with these soft sweet buns though, and just baked them at home if they were unable to buy them. The law was revoked and the popularity of hot cross buns skyrocketed.

Making your own hot cross buns isn’t difficult, it just takes a bit of time, like any yeasted bread product. A stand mixer fitted with a dough hook does most of the work, but if you like to knead the dough by hand, do so for about 10 minutes. Then it’s a series of letting the sweet dough rise for an hour, shaping it into buns and letting them rise for an hour, then brushing them with egg wash, and baking for about 15 minutes until they are golden. Let them cool down before piping that sweet vanilla icing cross on top. Slather the hot cross buns with butter and enjoy them with a cuppa strong black tea, while the little ones hunt for their baskets on Easter Sunday. I have a feeling that a certain 12th century monk, bless his soul, would definitely approve.

Classic Hot Cross Buns Makes 12 buns

1 cup (240 mL) warm milk (around 100º F) 1 Tbs granulated sugar 1 envelope active dry yeast (2½ - 3 tsp) 3 cups all-purpose flour ⅓ cup granulated sugar ¾ tsp salt 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves 1 Tbs orange zest ¼ cup melted butter 1 large egg 1 large egg white ¾ cup raisins 1 egg yolk 1 Tbs (15 mL) water

Glaze:

1 cup icing sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla 1-2 Tbs (15-30 mL) milk

1. Add 1 Tbs sugar to the warm milk,

Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place to rise for an hour, or until doubled in size. Punch down the dough, and place onto a lightly floured surface.

6. Using a sharp knife, cut dough into

stirring until dissolved. Sprinkle over the yeast, but do not stir. Let the yeast froth for about 5-8 minutes.

12 equal portions. Roll each into a ball and place on a parchment or Silpat lined baking sheet. Note: buns can also be placed in a greased 9x13 pan.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted

7. Cover the buns with a clean kitchen

with the dough hook, mix together the flour, sugar, salt, spices and orange zest.

3. One the yeast has frothed, stir in the melted butter, egg, and egg white, and add this mixture to the flour.

4. Knead with the dough hook on

medium-high speed for 5-7 minutes, until the dough is soft. If it’s too sticky, add 1 Tbs of flour at a time. The finished dough should be smooth and pliable. When you take a small piece and stretch it, a small, thin “window” should appear. If it still tears, keep kneading it to stretch the gluten.

5. Dump the dough onto a lightly

floured work surface, and knead the raisins in a little at a time, by hand. Once they are well incorporated, place the dough in a lightly greased large bowl.

towel and let them rise for another hour, or until they are doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 375º F.

8. Whisk together the egg yolk and

water and brush over the buns. Place on a rack in the lower third of the oven and bake for 15-18 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack.

9. Place the icing sugar in a medium

bowl, and stir in enough milk to form icing thick enough to pipe. Scrape the icing into a small piping bag fitted with a round tip, or cut the corner of a plastic zipper bag and use as your piping bag. Pipe crosses on all of the buns. Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club. Also, check out her blog www.sweetsugarbean.com 21

Calgary’s Cocktail Queens by REBECCA DAVIS and DAN CLAPSON

Being a bartender demands a special personality. The best mixologists in this business are equal parts professional, entertainer, and artist. Just like your back-of-the-house counterparts, it’s up to you to deliver well-made libations when the stools lined around your bar are packed with patrons and the ticket printer just won’t stop.

Calgary doesn’t really have a “growing” cocktail culture. These days, it’s pretty damn grown-up and it is a city that’s home to some amazing bartenders, as well as some of the best cocktail spots in this entire country. On a Friday night, you’ll see Model Citizen packed to the brim while Madeleine MacDonald and her team shake, stir, pour, repeat. Swing by The Derrick on a Thursday and catch Savanna Beach putting the finishing touches on the signature ‘The Last Word’, sliding it across her bar with a little smile. Native Tongues is buzzing on a Saturday night while Samantha Casuga measures out ounces of smoky mezcal to make their mezcalgaritas, the perfect complement to their handmade tortillas and braised octopus.

Downtown, Christina Mah is behind the bar at the space that was formerly known as Home Tasting Room, finalizing her cocktail list for her soon-to-be-open restaurant, Klein & Harris. Have her fresh, citrus and floral-style drinks that she’s known for at Raw Bar followed her here? I guess we’ll find out soon.

These four women are not only award-winning mixologists, but also leaders in their field. Get to know them a little bit here, their insights on being the best bartender you can be, and cheers to them with some cocktail recipes prepared just for us.

Samantha Casuga

Bar Manager, Native Tongues Taqueria Favourite spirit: Mezcal por vida, all the way! Best way to learn to order like an expert: Ask questions and get to know your bartender. Best beginner bartender tip: Reading! Books, magazines and social media streams are great too. There is a wealth of knowledge out there, and it just keeps growing!

Amores Perros (Translation: Love Is A Bitch) 1½ oz Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka ½ oz Liquore Strega ½ oz Tamarind Chili syrup ¾ oz lime juice 1 oz pineapple juice 1 egg white

Dry shake, wet shake, serve up in a coupe. Garnish with Chile de Arból sprinkle.

Amores Perros

Madeleine MacDonald Bar Manager, Model Milk

Favourite spirit: I have few I tend to gravitate towards! Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Plymouth Gin, Pisco ABA, Cointreau, Bonal Gentiane Quina Best way to learn to order like an expert: Going to your favourite cocktail bar and nerding out with the bartender there, because we all love talking spirits. Best beginner bartender tip: Most people don’t nail the balance of their drink. It’s a hard thing to teach but once it clicks, it’s there forever. Sweet, salty, bitter, boozy, umami. You have to try and hit

every note and even experienced bartenders miss this sometimes too.

Allez-Y 1½ oz Pisco ½ oz Cocchi Rosa ½ oz Cocchi Barolo Chinato ¾ oz Lemon ½ oz Honey water (combine honey and water at a 1:1 ratio) 2 dashes Rose Water

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Shake and strain into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with edible flowers.

Christina Mah

Spring Breeze

Owner, Klein & Harris, President, Alberta Bartenders Association

3 oz Indigo Wind Sparkling Sake ¾ oz Lillet ¼ oz lemon balsamic crema ¼ oz cream soda syrup 2 eye drops of citric acid 5 mint leaves lemon peel (for garnish)

Favourite spirit: Gin has a soft spot in my heart. Every time, I make a cocktail list it is overrun by gin cocktails and I have to redo a few! Best way to learn to order like an expert: Pull up a regular seat at a few libation bars in town and get to know your bartenders. Then read and study, googling at least one classic cocktail a night - that’s a good start. 24

Best beginner bartender tip: At home, go with trial and error. You can’t believe everything you read, although blogs are a great way to find suggestions of what may work and what to avoid.

Shake all ingredients, excluding sake, vigorously with ice and fine strain into a coupe. Top with sparkling sake and garnish with a fresh mint leaf and lemon peel.

Savanna Beach

“Lady With The Lamp”

Mixologist, The Derrick Gin Mill Favourite spirit: Gin. There are so many different flavour profiles; citrus, floral or earthy. You have the options to portray your cocktail for various types of palettes. I think it is the most versatile of all the spirits. Best way to learn to order like an expert: We all love talking about our craft. Sit at the wood have a drink and ask your bartender anything you think you want to know. If they don’t know the answer, I can almost guarantee they will find it out before you are finished. You’ll be an expert in no time!

Best beginner bartender tip: This makes me think of my friend Adrian Malong. When he first moved to Calgary from Vancouver he would frequent all the cocktail bars and went to the best spirit stores. Eventually [the cocktail community] fell in love with his passion and someone offered him a job!

2 oz Wallflower Gin 1 egg white ¾ oz Roasted Lemon Pepper Syrup ½ oz lemon juice ½ oz lime juice ¾ oz cream 4-5 basil leaves 4 drops Orange Blossom water 4 drops Bittersling Lem-Marrakech Soda

Combine all ingredients into a shaker tin. Wet shake. Strain and the dry shake. Strain into Collins glass. Top with soda and garnish with a toasted rosemary sprig and freshly ground black pepper. 25

PaSu Farms:

Getting A Leg Up In The Lamb Industry by DIANA NG

Long before memes of jolly lambs and goats jumping around in onesies took over the internet; before urban farming became a novelty and people started raising backyard chickens in the suburbs; back in 1980, Patrick and Sue de Rosemond chose sheep farming as a way of life. While most people value convenience and urban living, the couple prefer a more natural and healthy lifestyle for themselves and their children. So upon moving to Canada from South Africa in 1977, and settling just outside of Carstairs, the two learned how to farm at Olds College and started PaSu 26

Farm with 300 sheep, which Pat now admits was a poor decision due to their inexperience. They chose sheep over other animals for their gentle temperament and the range of what they provide: milk, skin

and wool - and also because Sue had a fear of cows. Today, there are around 50 purebred North Country Cheviot ewes for breeding; a breed the de Rosemonds chose over others, like the Suffolk, for its relative independence in birthing and mothering abilities. Another lesson that the couple learned is to delay the lambing season so that it adapts to Albertaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate â&#x20AC;&#x201C; delay it by a couple of months so that the lambs are born later in spring when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more temperate. What began as a small farm, eventually opened up to the public for tours and grew to include a restaurant and a gift shop, all with a focus on lamb and sheep products, as well as other natural products. The restaurant uses organic ingredients where possible, no MSG, and serves dishes that are a combination of French, South African and Mauritian in style.

The roughly 100-seat PaSu Farm restaurant, decorated with African art and overlooking the Rocky Mountains, is open for weekday lunch, Sunday afternoon buffet and tea (which features scones and desserts), in addition to private events and special occasion dinners, like its Celtic Feast in March and its famous South African braai in the summertime. Every Saturday evening in the summer, the de Rosemonds host a buffet-style barbecue with a plethora of grilled meats (sausages, fish, steaks, lamb ribs), South African specialities, salads and side dishes. Want to take a piece of the experience home? Guest can also purchase take-home frozen soups, meat pies and desserts.

own handmade lotions and creams (created with lanolin) at the boutique, all reflecting the de Rosemond’s values of living naturally. While the business has evolved to include many different offerings, Pat and Sue are still just as passionate about the animals today as day one, with Pat often choosing to bottle-feed orphaned lambs when other ewes are unable to take them in. Bottle-feeding male lambs can create attachment, so Pat avoids that, but will try to pair up an orphaned lamb with an ewe that has lost her lamb.

They chose sheep over other animals for their gentle temperament and the range of what they provide: milk, skin and wool

If you can’t make it out to Carstairs, you can stay in the city and visit PaSu’s booth at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, where you can find a selection of wool and sheepskin clothing, moccasins, quilts and blankets. Diana Ng is a co-founder of Eat North and freelance writer who will eat your food when you’re not looking.

Buying chocolate made with rainforest alliance CertifiedTM cocoa helps drive positive change in West Africa. Rainforest AllianceTM standards support international labour laws and promote good agricultural practices.

The gift shop is anything but the overpriced and irrelevant stores that you would expect from museums. The PaSu Farm boutique started with products made from sheepskin and wool from the farm itself.

Cococo Chocolatiers purchases and uses only chocolate that has been certified sustainable and that supports West Africa.

Today, the shop carries a wide selection of wool and sheepskin apparel and accessories, from rugs and blankets, to hats, mittens and moccasins, plus other clothing that are all made with natural fibres. Jams and jellies are all made from scratch at the farm, using produce right from their own garden. You can also find teas, seasonal gifts, as well as PaSu’s

Through all the changes and expansion of the business, one thing remains constant: Pat and Sue’s dedication to living and promoting a healthy and natural lifestyle.

For more information, follow the frog www.bernardcallebaut.com

11 Calgary loCations www.CococoChocolatiers.com

www.bernardcallebaut.com

Soup Kitchen story and photography by DAN CLAPSON

March is a fairly unpredictable time of year in Calgary. Yes, we were lucky enough to soak up the as having something a little more freshtasting when the sun is shining through sunshine in high teens temperatures in early February, but this shoulder season winter’s tale-end cool breeze. is usually full of snow, rain, shine, repeat. Here is one recipe that can keep you Having a rich, creamy soup on those easily satiated in the last few weeks before grey and slushy days is just as essential spring officially arrives.

Creamy Potato, Leek and Sausage Soup Serves 4-5 Total cook time 45 minutes 3 white potatoes, 1 cm diced 3 cups (720 mL) chicken broth 3 cups (720 mL) water 2 medium leeks, trimmed and thinly sliced 1 cup thinly sliced farmer’s sausage 1 cup dry yellow split peas 1 Tbs grainy mustard 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1½ cups (360 mL) heavy cream To taste salt and pepper

Shoulder season is usually full of snow, rain, shine, repeat

1. Place potatoes, broth and water in a

large pot and bring to a boil on mediumhigh heat. Let boil until potatoes are fork tender, about 8-10 minutes.

2. Transfer to a blender (or use an

immersion blender in the pot) to puree until very smooth. 28

3. Add leeks, sausage, peas, mustard,

5. Season to taste with salt and pepper

4. Add heavy cream to the pot, stir

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside

honey, and spices to the pot. Once mixture starts to simmer, reduce to medium heat and let cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

well, and continue to cook for 5 minutes.

before serving.

Absinthe: The Green Fairy by PATRICIA KOYICH

The liqueur known as Absinthe gained its notoriety in the latter part of the 19th century, when it became the drink of choice among bohemian intellectuals, writers, poets and artists such as Van Gogh, Monet, Hemingway, and Oscar Wilde, to name a few.

The artists “muse” appeared in art and poems often referred to as “The Green Fairy” (“La Fee Verte”) creating a culture of admirers and would-be connoisseurs. Happy hour at the time became known as the “green hour”, where it was served with chilled water to be dripped over a sugar cube placed on top of a slotted spoon over the liqueur. The cold water was said to “liberate the power of the essential herbs and wormwood oil” creating what is known as the “louche”. This liberation transforms the green liquid into a milky fog with an emerald hue. The release of these oils was said to invoke “enlightenment” and “an exploration of a freer state of mind”. Tales of madness, and even murder, caused it to be banned in the US and much of Europe, including France, Belgium, Switzerland, and Austria-Hungary by 1915. Since 1988 however, absinthe became legal across member states of the European Union, although it was never illegal in Canada, Spain, Portugal, or in the UK. No matter how much absinthe you might drink, the chances of a thujone-induced delirium remain nil Absinthe is a distilled white spirit that has a unique licorice-type flavour and intense aromatics, made by steeping the spirit (similar to making quality gin) with a range of herbs like fennel, anise, melissa, hyssop, and wormwood. Wormwood is nature’s richest source of the controversial “thujone”, and in higher doses, it is toxic and may cause hyperactivity, excitability, delirium, seizures – or worse. Absinthe is produced mainly in France, Switzerland, Spain and the Czech Republic, and can be spelled with or without the “e” though certain spellings are more

particular to certain regions. Since 2007, it has even been produced in Canada at the Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery. Though recent studies showing that the psychoactive properties (apart from that of the alcohol) have been exaggerated, the story of absinthe remains one of polarized opinions: romanticized by many, and damned by a few. Absinthe drinkers needn’t fear, however, as only a small amount of thujone actually survives the absinthe distillation process. No matter how much absinthe you might drink, the chances of a thujone-induced delirium remain nil – you would suffer fatal alcohol poisoning long before that. Care to give it a try? I discovered that one of my favourite mixologists, Fern Zevnik, serves Absinthe at the Bourbon Room (10th Avenue SW). For the cocktail lover, I asked how one would use it, and we discovered that you can add very little to a recipe, but it definitely shows up as the star!

Corpse reviver #2 (classic) ¾ oz gin ¾ oz Cointreau ¾ oz Lillet ¾ oz lemon juice

Rinse the cocktail glass with absinthe then discard any leftover liquid. In a martini shaker, add all ingredients with ice. Shake vigorously, and then strain into a martini coupe. Garnish with a brandied cherry. See culinairemagazine.ca for more absinthe cocktail recipes! Patricia Koyich was born and raised in Calgary, and considers Calgary one of the best cities in the world. She continues to inspire, learn and achieve within the Food, Beverage and Tourism industry. 29

To Go Please!

Healthy Alternatives On The Go by KADIE HUMMEL

Everyone has had those days where you forget to pack a lunch, maybe running late getting home from work, or you are literally juggling everything between soccer practice and tai chi. Made Foods

You are on the go, and you like to maintain a healthy, balanced lifestyle, but with the plethora of fast-food options around, sometimes it’s hard to resist the flashy signs when your stomach is grumbling.

pronounce, so you know what you’re eating. Chilled meals are individually portioned, and displayed in either the breakfast, lunch, dinner, or snack section of the store, making it easy to pick and choose from all the options.

Well fear not, all you busy, on-the-go Calgarians - we found that fast food doesn’t have to mean unhealthy choices. We have discovered some of the city’s most nutritious and convenient to-go places that offer an array of healthy options, where you can feel better about what you’re putting in your body.

The staff at Made work closely with a certified holistic nutritionist to ensure every dish has the ingredients to fuel an active body, with the ability to cater to many dietary demands.

Made Foods recently opened four stores across Calgary, priding themselves on nutritious meals made with locally sourced ingredients. They have a variety of ready-to-go options for every meal of the day, including snacks and smoothies. The dishes are all chef-prepared, using organic ingredients that you can actually 30

chicken breast, can all be found here ready to go whenever you are. Co-op Fresh To Go always offers a colourful spread of hot dishes and salad bars, created by award-winning red seal chef, John Humphreys. With four convenient locations across Calgary,

Delicious gluten-friendly, dairyfriendly, vegetarian, vegan, and low calorie options are all available, packed with seasonal healthy ingredients. Personalized consultations are also on offer, to provide the information you need to make health-concise decisions when it comes to picking out your meals. Tasty, honest-to-goodness dishes, such as barley mushroom risotto, curried lamb hash, and spinach and feta stuffed

Co-op Fresh To Go

finding a wholesome meal that is healthy and ready to go is no longer a chore.

Freshii

Chef-created dishes like shepherd’s pie, lasagna, and creole jambalaya are all available to ensure there is a meal favourite for everyone. Sushi and sandwiches are also popular choices for someone looking for a filling meal that’s easy to grab and eat on the go. Co-op also has an exciting curry bar in multiple locations across Calgary, serving hot and appetizing butter chicken, tikka masala, chicken vindaloo and vegetarian chana masala, with all the fixings. These hot and ready choices are great options for the Indian-food lover looking to add a little spice to their meals. Fit Kitchen, in McKenzie town, works hard to supply customers with meals that fit into their lifestyle. For the busy on-the-goer, whether you are looking to lose or maintain your weight, or fuel your hard-working active body, they can work with you to customize healthy meal plans for an easy grab and go solution. Dishes are divided into two categories - ‘lean’ and ‘performance’. The lean label is for people who are wanting to lose or maintain their weight, and include portion-controlled enchiladas, Canadian salmon, or pork vindaloo Fit Kitchen

watching your calorie intake doesn’t have to be boring! The performance label caters more to the athlete, or anyone who requires the extra energy to maximize their well-being throughout the day. Hearty chilli, Thai beef curry and Guinness beef stew, are some of the mouth-watering favourites that keep people coming back for more! This dietician-approved menu is always fresh, with enough carbohydrates, healthy fats, and high-quality protein to keep your body energized and satisfied. With many gluten-free dishes, and a growing number of vegan and vegetarian meals, Fit Kitchen offers a variety of choices for those with dietary restrictions too. Freshii has six locations throughout the city, providing healthy options that are both accessible and affordable. They make it a priority to emphasize the foods you should eat more of, and eliminate the ones you shouldn’t. With a focus on meals that are rich in fibre, lean protein, and slow-burning carbs, they will provide you with the essentials you need in your day. Their healthy smoothies, quinoa wraps, satay bowls, and breakfast burritos are packed with nutrition that will last throughout your busy day.

Juice cleanses are also part of Freshii’s menu; the one, three, or five day cleanses are chock full of energy-boosting, detoxifying ingredients that will keep you nourished and satisfied. These grab-and-go juices provide your body with energy throughout your day, and come in tasty mixes such as kale and apple, and lemon and ginger.

You may just find yourself “forgetting” to pack a lunch

All these health-concise, to-go options allow us hard-working, busy people to eat a satisfying, hunger-busting meal, without having to sacrifice a good diet. To-go doesn’t have to mean deep fried and greasy anymore, and with these healthy options available, you may just find yourself “forgetting” to pack a lunch more often.

Kadie Hummel has always lived an active lifestyle, whether she’s playing beach volleyball in the summer or snowboarding in the winter. She always tries to maintain a healthy diet, and loves that so many great options have become so accessible. 31

Ways to Spice Up Irish Stew

by MALLORY FRAYN

Let’s be honest here my friends, this dish is literally as meat and potatoes as it gets. At its most basic, this classic stew is comprised cubed meat, potatoes, carrots, and onion, all cooked down together in beer and stock. It may sound simple, but sometimes simple dishes are the most difficult to get right. Not to mention, there is plenty you can do to personalize them to your own tastes. Irish stew is no exception. Here are some ideas to get out of your stewmaking box.

1. Add dairy

If Irish stew wasn’t rich enough, it never hurts to add some additional fat to finish off a dish. Pour in heavy cream or add a dollop of sour cream or mascarpone cheese towards the end of the cooking process, to bump up the decadence. Or you can opt for alternative dairy, like goat curd or yogurt for that added tang, also helping to cut the richness rather than adding to it. 32

2. Add dumplings

Irish stew is typically loaded with potatoes, but that’s not the only starch you need to stick with! Dumplings are the perfect stick-to-your-ribs option for a hearty meal on a chilly winter day. Made out of flour, eggs, milk, salt, baking powder, and the flavourings of your choice, the ingredients simply have to be mixed together to form a sticky dough before dolloping it by the spoonful into the stew. Once cooked, they will plump up and absorb all of the rich, meaty sauce.

3. Use it as a filling

You can always make a big batch of stew and repurpose the leftovers. Prepping ahead of time means that you have no-fuss meals ready to go throughout the week, plus stew is one of those dishes that only gets better with time as all of the flavours meld together. Try using it as a filling for: – Stuffed pastas (ravioli, cannelloni, lasagna, etc.) – Savoury crepes – Wontons (either steamed or deep-fried) – Quesadilla (with plenty of aged cheddar cheese!) – Empanadas or other meat pies – Cabbage rolls (It’s also good to note that larger batches of stew can always be frozen, so you can have dinner on the table at a moment’s notice.)

4. Switch up the protein

Beef or lamb traditionally find their way into Irish stew, and for good reason. There are plenty of tougher cuts to choose from that benefit from the low and slow braising process, that turns all of the connective tissue into melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Stay away from generic stewing meat and try other cuts like beef cheek or lamb neck. Mutton, older sheep that produce meat that is fattier and more flavourful, is also an option if you can source it. The same goes for goat, if you like the gaminess that it provides. The Irish might consider it sacrilege but you could also omit the meat altogether. Using legumes or pulses instead allows you to create a vegetarian or vegan option that can be just as carnivorous as its meaty cousin. You could also stir in grains to bulk up the stew. Add any of the following: – Black beans – Kidney beans – Chickpeas – Lentils (Puy, beluga, red, etc.)

– Freekeh – Bulgur – Kamut – Spelt – Farro

5. Use different beer/alcohol

Given the origins, Irish stew is all about Guinness, but that shouldn’t prevent you from trying out other beer and alcohol combinations in its place. Try cooking with a local dark beer like Village Brewery’s Blacksmith. Milk stout, in particular, is another option that lends sweetness from the addition of lactose. You can also use a full-bodied red wine in place of, or in addition to, the beer. Continuing along with the Irish theme, a healthy shot of whiskey wouldn’t hurt either (just make sure you save some to sip on while you’re cooking).

6. Make it into a sauce

Who doesn’t like a good spaghetti Bolognese? Leaving out the potatoes, so you aren’t serving starch on top of starch, there’s no reason why you can’t make an Irish version by serving leftover stew atop a more substantial pasta like pappardelle or tagliatelle. You could even toss the stew with the bite-sized pasta of your choice, sprinkle it with shredded cheese, and bake to form an Irish stew casserole of sorts. Or if you want to take comfort food to the extreme, use the stew as a poutine sauce, smothering it over crispy fries and squeaky cheese curds. Make it a multicultural Irish stew, right?

Beyond YYC:

Canmore And Banff by LINDA GARSON

We’re all aware how lucky we are to have the mountains in our backyard, and spring is the perfect time to visit. Canmore and Banff are two towns with very different identities, and we could fill pages on each, so this is by no means a comprehensive guide to mountain dining, but we hope you’ll discover a few new spots to try on your next visit. Canmore

Canmore attracts talented people more Olympians live here here than anywhere else in the world - and it has an active and vibrant culinary community. 80 restaurants feed the 14,000 residents, almost certainly part of the attraction for the 5,000 or so 2nd homeowners too. It’s a laid back way of life though, while there’s a everything from fine dining to pub grub, there’s no restaurant in Canmore that you can’t go to in yoga pants and hiking boots. Start your day with a healthy breakfast at Communitea Café, awarded Business of The Year 2015 for 34

creativity, community involvement, and excellence. Using mostly local and organic ingredients, with gluten free and veggie/vegan options, choose a bowl, wrap or panini like the popular Chinook, with wild Pacific smoked Mountain Mercato

Communitea Café

salmon, scrambled eggs, avocado, and spinach. Tip: wash it down with a cuppa from the outstanding tea selection (90+ and counting!) or coffee from local specialty coffee roaster, Rave Coffee. Stores on Main Street open at 10am, but for a spot of specialty food shopping, or to just pop in and grab a Phil & Sebastian coffee to go, Mountain Mercato are open at 9am. This market, coffee shop and café is chock full of European delights, and it’s a popular lunch spot too. Tip: enjoy a glass of wine and excellent crostini from the aperitivo menu from 4pm, before moving on for dinner.

Murrietas’

Sage Bistro

Book in advance to get a table at Tapas, voted Most Romantic Restaurant in the Rockies. It’s intimate and dimly lit, with superb sharing plates and a great wine list. Tip: don’t miss the mussels in blue cheese and sweet chili sauce, and tostadas – smoked chicken and kimchi, and crab and cured salmon are highly recommended. You’ll also need to reserve for a casual, but fine dining dinner at The Trough; it’s a popular choice for a first date or anniversary. Tip - nab the two seats at the bar for your jerk-spiced Alberta baby back ribs!

Calgary favourites, Gaucho Brazilian Barbecue and Murrietas, both seem different in Canmore – it must be the mountain air! Both lunch and dinner at Gaucho offer the same predictably good, great value rodizio dining (wear your stretchy pants!) with local Alberta produce. Tip: there’s free corkage

and Oona Davis opened the place they wanted to go to. Tip: the 6-hour braised chicken wings are exceptional. on Monday nights. Murrietas’ is fine dining, but unpretentious; the service is laid-back and friendly, and you have gorgeous mountain views on two sides. Keep your stretchy pants on, the portions are generous (try the Reserve Angus beef stroganoff with braised short rib!). Tip: take advantage of the weekday $5 drinks and appies happy hour, or the 3-course Sunday dinner for $35. If you’re looking for music or a few drinks to end your evening, grab some friends and head to Tavern 1883. Although if you’re hungry, this cosy neighbourhood pub has snacks like duck nuts with house-made duck confit, burgers, and tacos too. Tip: there are nightly $18.83 specials! If vinyl is more your style, play your own at Where The Buffalo Roam (or locally, ‘The Buff’), with a late night cocktail after your meal, though the food here is really good too. Locals Shelley Young

Just a short ride away, with views on three sides, is Sage Bistro. Upstairs offers delicious tapas-inspired sharing plates, flights of wine, and a huge selection of cheese, with traditional Canadian fine dining downstairs. For train addicts, 20-30 trains a day pass by. Tip: don’t miss the smoked duck wellington with parsnip two-ways! After a tour or tasting at the new Grizzly Paw Brewery, wander the few yards to Table, the completely renovated restaurant in the Coast Hotel. Warm and inviting, it’s ‘mountain modern’, with a great inhouse charcuterie program. One of the ‘seafoodiest’ eateries in Canmore, oysters are big here too. Tip: sit at the charcuterie bar and watch chef prepare your board of Alberta meats and fish, and house-made preserves and pickles. 50 local restaurants are involved in ‘Canmore Uncorked’ food festival, from April 6-17. Check out tourismcanmore.com for details. Table

Where The Buffalo Roam

Gaucho 35

Banff

Banff is a special place for biking, hiking and skiing, but the population of 8,500 swells to 15-17,000 in summer, so take advantage of the shoulder season for your relaxing foodie visit. The Bison

The Bison is fine dining, but not at all stuffy, with very friendly servers, an approachable menu, and bare floors for ski boots. Everything is made in the tiny kitchen and it’s THE place for brunch. Try one of the Bennies - duck confit, AAA rib-eye steak, or smoked salmon, or a special, like smoked octopus! There are a lot of bison dishes to choose from on the dinner menu - carpaccio, ravioli, ribeye, burger, and the most popular dish - braised bison short ribs. But there are plenty of non-bison choices too. Bonus: there are windows on three sides with great mountain views, and easy parking across the street! Downstairs is Bear Street Tavern another very busy place for families and people of all ages. Here you can eat very inexpensively; choose one of the ridiculously good pizzas, or classics such as mahi mahi fish tacos, and pork belly mac ‘n cheese. Next door, Alf at Nourish is creating new vegetarian/vegan dishes and flavours; this year, their greenhouses in Kimberley are providing all the vegetables too. Homey ‘soups, salads and love’ are on the menu here, and soul-satisfying dishes like BourbonNourish

glazed stuffed buttons. Tip - order Num Num Nachos and try to name the 27 ingredients, amazing! Just a few doors away, Wildflour Bakery is where the locals come for breakfast, coffee and tea - and you can buy your bread there too. Everything is locally made, and artisan. Tip: the gourmet grilled cheese sells like hot cakes! Staple Grizzly House, hasn’t changed since 1967, when it was the only disco in western Canada (the disco ball is still there), and there are working phones on the tables from the old swinger days! It’s still very popular for hot rock fondue; try the exotic Fondue Dinner with shark, alligator, rattlesnake, ostrich, frog’s legs, buffalo and venison – but it’s essential to book ahead. Tip: when you’re sated on fondue, pop next door to Banff Sweet Shoppe, where 2,000-2,500 varieties of candies in jars, a Pez wall, homemade fudge, and chocolates await.

you can see in from downstairs and upstairs. There are excellent cocktails, and a boutique beer list from western Canada. Tip - garage doors open onto an east-facing patio. When it’s warm, it’s the first spot to fill up!

You’ll need to book ahead for The Block, a cool, 30-seat restaurant, and #2 in Banff on Trip Advisor. There’s nothing standard here, chef Stephane Prevost makes Mediterranean-Asian food he loves in the tiny kitchen. It’s eclectic, fun and funky, with a deep fryer full of coconut oil. Tip: try the crispy chicken skewer (or in a sandwich at lunch), smoked bison flatbread and Asian beef brisket, with one of Jono’s cocktails. Juniper Hotel and Bistro

Banff Sweet Shoppe & Grizzly House

Park Distillery

Park Distillery are the new boys, with daily free tours, tasting boards, and the biggest bar of whiskies in town. The Woodstone rotisserie oven eats up Okanagan cherry and birch wood for your chicken, ribs and even broccoli – and a full pig roast on Sundays - and their special house-ground prime rib tower with a beef rib on top is notable. It’s a gorgeous space with a wall of aspens, and a glass box distillery so

Though not downtown, if you’re feeling peckish mid-afternoon, choose a friend, a cocktail and a hearty appy, and stare at the fabulous view from the Juniper Hotel and Bistro. Tip: come for breakfast too - the smoked wild sockeye salmon Benny on house-made bagel is outstanding! We’ve run out of room before we’ve had chance to tell you of the 10 different eating options at the Banff Springs Hotel, but we’re saving it for another article – so watch this space!

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Craft Breweries:

The Next Alberta Boom? by DAVID NUTTALL

You may not know it, but we are living in the Golden Age of Alberta Brewing. Now, to the uninitiated, that might seem like a bold statement. Yeah, you know Big Rock has been around since before the Calgary Olympics, and there have been a few new ones since, but THE Golden Age? Really?

Although Alberta has been a province for over 110 years, and a territory for a few decades before that, it doesn’t exactly have a distinguished brewing history. Given that Alberta lies in a location with some of the best brewing malt and best water for brewing on the planet, is a bit perplexing. However, up until the mid-1980s, only three major breweries dominated brewing in Alberta, and even with the new ones since, we are only now on the cusp of a brewing explosion. Before Alberta was even a province, entrepreneurs like A.E. Cross and Fritz Sick built breweries in Calgary, Edmonton, and Lethbridge. A couple of other minor ones entered the landscape in the 1900s, but most either closed shop or were bought out by bigger

fish. Brewing in Alberta may not have begun with Molson, but it sure often ended with them, as they terminated no fewer than four breweries in three cities throughout the century. Craft breweries have proven to be good for the economy As a result, Alberta usually had only 3-5 breweries operating at any given time up until 1985; Molson and Labatt’s in Edmonton, Sick’s Brewery in Lethbridge, Calgary/Carling O’Keefe in Calgary, and Uncle Ben’s/ Rocky Mountain/Drummond in Red Deer. The mid-1980s brought change in Canada, and the requirement of 37

Brewery and Brewpub Openings in Alberta Since 1985 2012

1985 Big Rock Brewery, Calgary

Minhas Brewing, Calgary

1994

2013

Brew Brothers Brewing (brewpub), Calgary

Grizzly Paw Brewing Company, Canmore (new brewery)

1995

2014

Alley Kat Brewing Company, Edmonton

Dandy Brewing Company, Calgary

Brewsterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brewpub (multiple locations)

Tool Shed Brewing, Calgary**

1996

2015

Wild Rose Brewery, Calgary Grizzly Paw Brewing Company (brewpub), Canmore

Troubled Monk Brewery, Red Deer Last Best Brewing and Distilling (brewpub), Calgary Blindman Brewing, Lacombe Fat Unicorn Brewery, Plamondon Bench Creek Brewing, Edson

Scheduled for 2016 Two Sergeants Brewing, Fort Saskatchewan* Brauerei Fahr, Turner Valley Photograph courtesy Tourism Calgary

2005 Jasper Brewing (brewpub), Jasper

2009 Drummond Brewing, Red Deer

2010 Banff Avenue Brewing (brewpub), Banff Yellowhead Brewing, Edmonton

2011 Village Brewery, Calgary Ribstone Creek, Edgerton Norseman Brewing Company (brewpub), Camrose Wood Buffalo Brewing (brewpub), Ft. McMurray 38

Big Rock Brewery

Coulee Brew Co., Lethbridge* Trolley Five Brew Company (brewpub), Calgary Six Corners Brewworks, Okotoks* Half Hitch Brewing Company, Cochrane Situation Brewing, Edmonton Branded Peak Brewing, Calgary Theoretically Brewing Company, Lethbridge Common Crown Brewing Co., Calgary Mill Street Brewing (brewpub), Calgary * Currently contract-brewed at another brewery while their building is under construction. ** Tool Shed was born in 2012 and had their beer contract-brewed until opening their own facility in 2014.

national breweries having operations in each province was dropped. As a result, dozens of breweries either closed or were sold. However In both Canada and the U.S., this was also the shotgun start for craft breweries. Uncharacteristically, Alberta was at the forefront! Thanks to Ed McNallyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision, the Big Rock Brewery opened up in 1985, the first brewery to open and survive in Calgary in almost a century. Despite its success, two expansions, and a move to a new custom-built brewery in 1996, the floodgate of new craft breweries did not open in Alberta (or Canada, for that matter) like it did in the United States. In fact, only nine other breweries and seven brewpubs opened between 1985 and 2013. This low number was partly a result of the trepidation felt by potential investors in bankrolling a business that would have to compete with two giant corporations who, at the time, had a 95% market share. Also, it was partly due to archaic provincial liquor laws, one of which dictated a minimum brewery size, which discouraged many more, until the minimum size was thankfully eliminated in December 2013. As a result, in the two years since this minimum requirement was abolished, seven breweries/brewpubs have begun operations with at least eleven more facilities scheduled to open in 2016 (see list at left). The Olds College Brewmaster and Brewery Operations Management program began in 2012, producing

graduates qualified to work in breweries, and providing a location where the art, science, technology, and business of breweries can be studied. As Alberta grows from a province that “boasted” single-digit number of breweries through most of its existence, towards 40 and possibly 50 or more before this decade is out, you also begin to see a shift in the “beer culture” locally. Craft breweries have proven to be good for the economy. They employ people, use local renewable resources, create and support other industries, and provide a sense of local pride as they can be built almost anywhere. In Colorado, many small towns are lobbying for craft breweries to locate there because they see their beneficial economic impact. Local breweries also tend to be more involved with the community - supporting the arts, donating casks to charities, and generally being more conspicuous. So, how far can this go? No doubt, craft beer and brewing are still growing. However, as Alberta is only now joining a club that has been in existence for more than 30 years, we do have some points of reference. British Columbia has over 100 breweries, and San Diego, California, a city similar in size to Calgary, has over 50 breweries. Colorado, a state with about the same population as Alberta, has around 250 breweries. It’s clear we have a long way to go. Drink it in Alberta. These new breweries are open for business, so try their beer, or better yet, visit them. They all have tasting rooms and you can meet the people behind the beer. Currently, on average, two breweries a day are opening in the U.S., the equivalent of one opening every 40 days in Alberta. So, with eleven scheduled to open this year, we are right on pace. If you want to see (and taste) them all in one place, be sure to visit Calgary International Beerfest, May 6-7. Alberta is world famous for many things; maybe next it will be for its beer.

Woodbridge Wine by Robert Mondavi and Miss Vickie’s* potato chips – the perfect complement to a perfect night in.

†

OFF

BONUS

†

on your next purchase of Miss Vickie’s* potato chips (220g).

bag of Miss Vickie’s* potato chips (66g) when you buy a bottle of Woodbridge wine.

Offer available at participating retailers while supplies last. †

No purchase necessary. See in-store for details.

Must be of legal drinking age. Please enjoy responsibly. *Trademark Miss Vickie’s

Making The Case: BC Classics by TOM FIRTH

Time after time, the wines of British Columbia impress with solid varietal character, balance, and food-friendliness. With the promise of spring nearing (notice I didn’t say it’s just around the corner), it’s time to contemplate visiting wine country, taking road trips, or even ordering wine online. This month, we wanted to share some excellent BC wines from wineries that have been on Alberta wine shelves and restaurant lists for a long time - classic and consistent producers with wines to seek out and taste.

Just a quick reminder, following each wine, we’ve included an approximate retail price and a CSPC code which can help you find which liquor stores may carry the product close to you. This can be done at liquorconnect.com.

Burrowing Owl 2013 Syrah Okanagan Valley Great syrah is still pretty new to the valley, the right vineyard spots are being used, and both the grape and the winemaker seem to have figured out how to make the right style of syrah from BC. Cherry and plum fruits with savoury, smoked meat and herb and a little cocoa too. Flavours are wonderfully pronounced and very well balanced. Great stuff, drinking very well now. $45 CSPC +1074184

Mission Hill 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley Coming from the “hot” Okanagan around Osoyoos and the Black Sage Bench vineyards, this cab is blended with a little cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot. Cassis, tobacco, cherry, and graphite aromas lead to firm tannins buffered by solid fruit presence and nice acids. Overall, well balanced, and ready to drink now, though 2-3 more years would let flavours integrate more. $33 CSPC +330506

Township 7 2014 7 Blanc Okanagan Valley A blend of gewürztraminer, pinot gris, and muscat, this off-dry blend is about hitting all the pleasure points. Almost juicy, tropical fruits with apple peel, spices, and enough acids to keep it from “feeling” sweet. Very enjoyable, much more fun to drink it than talk about it. About $20-22 CSPC +114553 40

JoieFarm 2013 PTG Okanagan Valley

Laughing Stock 2013 Blind Trust Okanagan Valley

Poplar Grove 2012 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley

PTG stands for “Passe-Tout-Grains” but what you need to know is that is a slightly uncommon blend of pinot noir and gamay. The nose evokes dusty cherries, raspberry pie filling, cocoa powder, and plenty of earthy and spice box. Flavours are pretty consistent with plenty of fruit and mid-weight, and unobtrusive tannins. Should be perfection with prime rib, beef stir fry, or some good cheese. About $38 CSPC +823799

A companion wine to Laughing Stock’s flagship – Portfolio, the Blind Trust is a blend of several Bordeaux varietals (which I won’t disclose here – but they are under the capsule). I’m really digging the 2013, plenty of plummy fruits leaning towards raisins, some preserved, jammy notes, and a little cocoa and spice. Drink or keep, roasts of any type will be excellent here. $43 CSPC +737123

One of the producers making cabernet franc in the Okanagan that changed my mind about the grape - which I now love. A ripe, spicy, and clean tasting cabernet franc with lifted floral tones and slightly pungent summery fruit scents. Perfectly fine by itself, it will really shine with a nice selection of firm cheeses, but also a braised meat dish or top-shelf, slow cooked chilli. About $45-47 CSCP +738640

Culimina 2013 Dilemma Okanagan Valley

Tinhorn Creek 2014 Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley

Serendipity 2014 Rosé Okanagan Valley

I’m a big fan of the Culimina brand and what they are trying to accomplish (a wonderful grüner and some great vineyards) in a few short years. Their chardonnay is from a block of estate fruit going back about 20 years and is a big, lush, and oaky chard. Plenty of barrel aging and lees contact are apparent, along with solid fruit and spice notes. Drinking well now, another year or two will really make this sing. $49 CSPC +842286

A classic offering from Tinhorn Creek, the nose shows all those lychee and mandarin orange aromas, with a little fresh pear and spice. A little gooey on the palate with a little residual sugar, it’s easy, fresh, and tropical. Perfect for chilling out with a little chilled wine. Food-wise enjoy with Asian cuisine, fresh fish, or grilled poultry. $19 CSPC +530675

Sort of an “everything” rosé blend, it’s quite dark (good luck reading the label!) with intense raspberry jam and cranberry aromas, and a bit of rhubarb for good measure. Fairly dry, the fruits are quite prominent with a good herbal character. The solid acids really want to be paired with pizza, or something a little salty. Drink now. $25 CSPC +649871

CedarCreek 2014 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley

Clos du Soleil 2013 Capella Similkameen Valley

Bartier Bros. 2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley

Who doesn’t love a nice and casual pinot gris to unwind with from time to time. Clean and bright tropical-type fruits on the nose, while in the mouth, simply put, a tasty glass of gris to relax with. Food not required, but a crowd-pleaser like this could go with a lot of food. $22 CSPC +561175

A full-on delicious blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon, with fine balance showcasing the bright lemon citrus and apple fruits along with a little bit of peachiness. Should be just about perfect with grilled seafood or some scallops – or halibut… About $27 CSPC +823334

Like your chardonnays oaky, but not too oaky? Look no further, I was a big fan of the richness and spiciness of this bottle plenty of leesy character while not being just about the oak. Excellent balance of flavours, this chardonnay would work really, really well a slow-cooked pork shoulder. $28-30 CSPC +771221 41

Open That Bottle

by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

“I’m a late bloomer - it took me 15 years to follow my passion - and I love it. It was the best move I’ve ever made,” says Phoebe Fung. a leave of absence to explore the world of food and wine. She fell in love with a boarded-up building on 4th Street SW, and thought it would be a cool place for a wine bar. “My whole plan was to build a wine bar, and when my sabbatical was up, I’d go back to BP and work,” she says, “but that didn’t work out!” Although Fung had no experience in the industry, she gutted the entire building for five months. “It’s a labour of love, is really what it is”, she says. Vin Room opened December 2008, and Fung knew after the first month that she wasn’t going back to oil and gas. “It was too much fun, you can get addicted to that energy of a busy room.”

Proprietor of Vin Room, Fung describes herself as an “accidental restaurateur”, having spent the first 15 years of her career in oil and gas. “When I was at university, I was actually president of the Entrepreneurs Club, so it was a big joke when I graduated and worked for a big corporation,” she laughs. She graduated the University of Alberta with a commerce degree, and gained her MBA from Queens University while working at BP Energy. Working in Houston for a couple of years, in 2007 Fung asked to come back to Calgary. “I had a 15 year-old dog, and he didn’t like the Houston heat,” she explains. But a year later, she negotiated 42

When an opportunity arose in West Springs, Fung leapt at it. “I live in the ‘burbs, and I really don’t like driving back downtown for dinner on a weeknight, or in the middle of a snowstorm,” she says. “It’s a great area of town, what I call ‘urban suburban’. Now this one’s more eclectic, there’s only so much you can do with a square box,” she continues. Two years later, in November 2012, Vin Room West and her wine store next door, VR Wine, opened - on exactly on the same day that Fung put in her proposal to the Airport Authority. “I’ve always wanted to be in an airport,” she says. “Travelling is so stressful, so if you can create a little oasis for travellers, why not? And I get to design it. We’re making sure your carry-on can go underneath our seating, and we’re building our seating around data plugs, plug-ins and USB ports. We have a terminal monitor inside the restaurant, and a complimentary business centre - it’s all those things I wanted when I was travelling. It’s the

largest wine bar in an airport in the world, and there will be beer on tap too.” So what bottle is Fung saving for a special occasion? “My favourite, and I have it in my cellar, is Krug Rosé” she says, her eyes shining at the thought. “And the reason for that is I bought a case when I was turning 40, and I have fond memories of drinking Krug Rosé in the Bahamas on a beach with 14 of my closest friends - we did a trip together,” she continues. And when does she plan to open the bottle? “I’m a sentimental drinker and I still have a few bottles of that case left, and I’ll be opening it when I open at the airport – and sharing it with my managers. And as you know, my managers all like a drink, so I do have more than one bottle to share,” she laughs.

Charcoal-grilled prime cuts Hand-muddled caipirinhas 50+ salad bar options Three distinct private rooms

521 10 Avenue SW Calgary, AB (587) 354-3441

See this weekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s promotion @

pampasteakhouse.com

@ eatpampayyc